Project Answer for Paper 3

Submitted
To

The Global Open University

Nagaland
Chapter 18, Project 5 page 393

Research the SPF ratings of

competitive Sun-Screen products.
Recommend the products for each skin type,
taking their ingredients into account.

Towards partial fulfillment

Of

Master of Philosophy
Cosmetology
Dr. Atulkumar K. Shah
MPHIL/066/CST/2007D
January 2009
 Sun protection

Sun protection is way of guarding body from the adverse effects of

sunlight. There being hazards of heat, the sun poses the
danger of sunburn, and can permanently damage the skin
and cause skin cancer, precancerous changes in the skin, as
well as premature wrinkling and signs of aging. Exposure to
ultraviolet rays from the sun is a known risk factor for the
development of both melanoma and non-melanoma skin
cancers.

Sunscreen medication

Sunscreen is either substance or material that protects the skin

from UV radiation. Sunscreens are available in the forms of topical
lotion, cream, ointment, gel, or spray that can be applied to the
skin; a salve or stick that can be applied to the lips, nose, and
eyelids; a moistener in towelettes that can be rubbed against the
skin.

Sunglasses that protect the eyes; certain types of sun-protection

clothing; and film screen that can be affixed to the windows of a
car, room, or office are also sunscreens

Sun-protection factor (SPF)

SPF, an abbreviation for sun-protection factor, is a number such as

15, 20, or 60 that indicates how long a topical sunscreen remains
effective on the skin. A user can determine the duration of
effectiveness simply by multiplying the SPF by the length of time it
takes for him or her to suffer a burn without sunscreen.

For example, if some one is likely to normally suffer a burn in 10

minutes without wearing a sunscreen and if that person applies a
sunscreen with an SPF of 15, he/she will be protected for 150
minutes (10 minutes multiplied by the SPF of 15). As another
example, if some one. normally burns in half hour without wearing
a sunscreen. If he/she also applies a sunscreen with an SPF of 15,

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he will be protected for 450 minutes (30 minutes multiplied by the
SPF of 15).

Simply put, the higher the SPF, the longer the protection.

It is important to remember that these calculations are only

effective for sunscreen when it is properly applied. A common
mistake is applying too little sunscreen, which can drastically
reduce the effective SPF of the product. About 1 ounce (5-6
teaspoons) of sunscreen is recommended to cover the entire body.
Further, sunscreen must be reapplied every two hours when staying
outdoors for a prolonged period of time.

In India, it is advisable to wear sunscreen throughout the year.

Sunscreen should be applied liberally enough to all sun-exposed
areas like arms, legs, lips, ears, back of hands and neck. It takes
20-30 minutes for sunscreen to be absorbed by the skin, so it
should be applied at least half an hour before going out in the sun.

Sunscreen should also be the last product applied especially on the

face since some sunscreens can break down in the presence of
water contained in water-based foundations and moisturizers. It is
advisable to wear adequate sunscreen throughout the year.

Sunscreen must be applied generously and evenly before going in

the sun, and reapplied frequently after swimming, exercising, or
simply walking.

Sunscreens can be broadly classified into two categories: chemical

sunscreens and physical sunscreens.

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation while physical sunscreens

act by physically blocking it. Chemical sunscreens can be UVA or
UVB absorbers. Many sunscreens have a combination of ingredients
and may contain both physical and chemical sunscreens.

Physical sunscreens are good blockers of both UVA and UVB

radiation. The two most common physical blockers of UV radiation
are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. However, zinc oxide blocks
more UV radiation than titanium dioxide and, therefore, is the
preferred ingredient.

Some chemical sunscreens can also block UVA rays. Octocylene is a

chemical known as a cinnamate that has both UVA- and UVB-

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absorbing properties, and the benzophenones (such as avobenzone)
can also absorb both UVA and UVB rays. In July 2006, the U.S. FDA
approved an over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen preparation known
as Anthelios SX that contains the UVA filter ecamsule. Ecamsule is a
potent UVA-blocking compound.

In some people, sunscreens containing PABA (para-aminobenzoic

acid) can actually heighten the risk of suffering from sunburn. Other
ingredients in sunscreens may also increase the risk of a skin
reaction in certain people.

Anyone can determine the suitability of a particular sunscreen

without risk of serious harm by

1. clothing his or her body fully except for a small patch of skin;
and then

2. applying the sunscreen to the skin patch and exposing it to

sunlight.

3. If a reaction occurs, the user should not use that product. He

or she should try another product.
4.

Examples of chemical sunscreens include:

• PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid): Rarely found in modern

preparations, PABA was an early chemical sunscreen that
often induced sensitivity reactions.
•
• PABA esters (glyceryl, padimate A and padimate O):
These newer preparations have fewer side effects than the
original PABA.
•
• Salicylates (homosalate, octyl salicylate)
•
• Cinnamates (cinoxate, octyl methoxycinnamate or
octocrylene): Octocylene is a cinnamate with both UVA and
UVB absorbing properties.
•
• Benzophenones: These can absorb both UVA and UVB rays.

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In India major firms like Lakme, Ranbaxy and Shalak have range of
products. They are specific for oily, normal or dry skin. Here are
some examples

Lakme Sun Expert Sunscreen Souffle. This light-weight, water-

based, sunscreen is 100% oil-free and tailor-made for oily skin.
Formulated with SPF 20,

Lakme Sun Expert Sun Block for Sensitive Skin. This oil-free and
water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 25 is suitable for oily and
normal skin

Lakmé Sun Expert Sun Protection Lotion with SPF 15 is oil free and
is suitable for oily and normal skin

Lakmé Sun Expert Sun Protection Crème with SPF 30 is ment for
dry skin

Lakmé Sun Expert Ultra Matte with SPF 20 and SPF 30 is suitable
for normal and dry skin

Ranbaxy Suncross lotion, SPF26 is suitable for dry and normal skin

Shalaks

U.V. DEW SPF 10+ for oily and normal skin

Active Ingredients: Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) Octyl
Methoxycinnamatee

U.V. AVO SPF 25 for normal and dry skin

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3)
Octyl Methoxycinnamate Titanium Dioxide (Micronised)

U.V. DEW 15 Plus SPF 18 for normal and dry skin

Active Ingredients: Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) Octyl
Methoxycinnamate

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U.V. DEW 34+ suitable for dry and normal
Active Ingredients: Tinosorb ,Octyl Methoxycinnamate Titanium
Dioxide (Micronized) Broad Spectrum Sunscreen / Sunblock
Covering both UVB/UVA including long UVA rays.

Herbaline Sun Screen Cream

A unique, totally natural formulation from Herbline to protect the

skin from ill-effects of the sun, wind, ultraviolet radiation and heat,
and, to help heal minor rashes and sun & snow burns. It shields the
body from invading elements while keeping it protected and
moisturized.

Aloe Vera Gel - helps detoxify the skin from the effects of pollution
& make-up and also helps heal & protect the skin against abrasion.

Zinc Oxide - is one of the most protective and healing natural

minerals. It protects the skin against ultraviolet radiation as a sub-
block and also helps heal any damage on the skin. An extra dose of
Zinc Oxide is added to this formulation to bring-up the SPF to 15.

Lactic Acid - Natural Lactic Acid has been used in Ayurveda (as
yogurt acid) since ancient times. Western science has now
rediscovered the beneficial effects of this wonderful natural
ingredient on the skin and recent research proves that it is one of
the best natural moisturizers (helping the skin to retain its moisture
at the dermal level). Lactic acid also helps the skin pH to remain
acid and thus protects & shields the skin against invading
organisms.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra - One of the best natural sun-blocks against

both UV-A and UV-B radiations. Glycyrrhiza also modifies the
Melanin metabolism in the epidermal cells to inhibit the melanin
production - thereby it lightens dark complexions and brings about
fairness.

Herbaline Sun Screen Cream is available as both Cream for dry and
& Lotion for oily skin for convenience of use hence it can double up
as moisturiser in dry skin

Safe Sun Products

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SAFE SUN Lotus Herbals Intensive Sun Block Spray
SPF 60 UVA-INDEX 20 And SPF 50 UVA-Index 16

This easy to use fine mist spray offers quick protection from UVA &
UVB rays. It contains natural actives of chamomile, sage and
thyme. It can be used on oily and normal skin

SAFE SUN Extreme Sun Block Cream

SPF 60 UVA-INDEX 20

This extreme sun block cream contains high concentrations of

intense sun screens and sun filters to reflect, scatter and absorb all
the UVA & UVB rays. Protects skin completely against skin ageing,
tanning, skin cancer and all sorts of UVA rays associated damages.
Pure and researched herbal extracts of oregano, chamomile and
carrot. Useful for normal and dry skin

Safe Sun `Sun Block` Cream SPF 20 Useful for normal and dry skin

Philosophy Shelter broad spectrum sunscreen for face and body,

SPF 30 is available as lotion for normal and oily skin and as
crème for dry skin.

Here are some common international brands that are

recommended by the Environmental Working Group:

1.Blue Lizard
anything without oxybenzone
2.California Baby
anything with SPF 30+
3.CVS
with zinc oxide
4.Jason Natural Cosmetics
Sunbrellas Mineral Based Sunblock
5.Kiss My Face
"Paraben Free" series
6.Neutrogena
Sensitive Skin Sunblock
7.Olay
Defense Daily UV Moisturizer (with zinc)
8.SkinCeuticals
Physical UV Defense

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9.Solar Sense
Clear Zinc for Face
10.Walgreens
Zinc Oxide for Face, Nose, & Ears