Sofa Table Plan

from take the side street

Material list:
1 sheet 3/4" MDF (4'x8') 2 - 1x2, 6-ft long 4 - 1x3, 8-ft long 2-inch nails for your nailer (I used an 18-gauge brad nailer) 1 1/4" nails for nailer (for the trim) wood glue Note: If you buy 1x2 and 1x3s that have the sharp corners it's going to be easier to hide any seams. I think these boards were a higher grade and cost a bit more than the ones I've used before with the rounded corners, but it's going to make a nicer finished product. I think it was definitely worth the extra cost.

Cut list:
1 - 62" x 15", MDF - top 2 - 56.5" x 12", MDF - interior shelf & base 3 - 9.5" x 12", MDF - small cubby dividers 3 - 14" x 12", MDF - large cubby dividers 2 - 25" x 12", MDF - table sides 4 - 1x2 x 28" (If you want your legs an inch or two longer I think it would be fine) 4 - 1x3 x 28" (again, make these longer if you want your legs longer) 4 - 1x3 x 54.5" 4 - 1x3 x 9" Note: Each 8' long 1x3 will give you a 28-inch, 54.5-inch and 9-inch piece.

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I'm including a diagram I made of how I had my brother-in-law cut the MDF (remember how I'm afraid of table saws?) -- we got all the needed MDF from one sheet, but it was close in a couple spots (remember, each sheet is actually 49" x 97" inches so you do have a teensy bit of room for saw cuts). Use your own discretion and be smart!

Instructions

Step 1 - (a) Using a nail gun and wood glue,

attach the 56.5" interior shelf to both of the 25" sides of the table.

(b) Do the same with the 56.5" base (yep, the photo to the left is flipped) to create the start of the larger, bottom cubbies.

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Step 2 - (a) Find the middle point of the base or interior shelf, and center your first 9.5" vertical divider on that line (orange line in diagram below is center of base). Make sure it's straight, then use wood glue and nailer to secure the divider to both the base and the interior shelf.

2(b) Measure 13" from the edge of your newly secured center divider and mark a line for the next divider. Make sure it's straight (tip: use a speed square as in photo below) and secure with wood glue and nailer through both the

Step 3 (a) - Mark the underside of the top piece to help you center it on the table.

3(b) - Apply glue to the top ends of the table sides, flip the tabletop onto the base, center it using your marks on the underside, and attach it with a nailer. Do not worry about the fact that the table sags a little in the middle and it wobbles from side to side. All in good time, friends. All in good time.

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Step 4 - Attach the shorter, 9.5" dividers, using the

measurements you used for the larger dividers. Take extra care to line them up with the bottom dividers to create a clean line. Don't forget to apply glue before you slide them in! Nail from the tabletop, and up at an angle from below on either side (that's called 'toe nailing', heehee).

Don't be worried if you're left with this

You can just cut the nail with wire cutters and set it with a nail setter. After you use wood putty you'll never even know it was there! After all those steps, you'll have something that resembles this

... and it will still wobble. No worries! This is because the trim is what is actually going to hold the table together as a solid piece. Take the Side Street Sofa Table Plans PAGE 4 www.takethesidestreet.com

Step 5 - (a) Using glue and 1 1/4" nails, attach one of the 28"
lengths of 1x2 to the side of the table, making sure it is flush with the front as in the photo to the right:

(b) Spread glue over the front edge of both the MDF and the 1x2. Attach a 28" length of 1x3 to the front, keeping it flush with the 1x2 in order to create the appearance of a solid leg. Make sure to nail the 1x3 into both the MDF and the 1x2, just in case. (I'm a better-safe-than-sorry kind of girl, and we're going for strength here, people!)

Go around the table, repeating this step for the other three legs.

Step 6 - Place the table on its back in order to apply the

54.5" horizontal pieces of trim to the top and bottom of the table's front. The top piece will be pushed up under the base of the tabletop, and the bottom piece of trim will be flush with the bottom of the base cubbies (you'll want to slide baskets out, not lift them out). Important Note: Apply glue to every surface where two pieces of wood will be touching -- don't skip this as these pieces of trim are going to be doing the majority of the stabilizing and we don't want wiggly tables. Glue the tops of the cubby dividers, the sides of the 1x3 trim you just attached... you get the idea. Glue it, baby. Repeat on the back side of the table. Optional plan change: You can buy a thin piece of plywood or masonite and nail it to the back side if you want a solid back, but otherwise do not skip trimming out both sides of the table. Stabilizing, remember? Take the Side Street Sofa Table Plans PAGE 5 www.takethesidestreet.com

Step 7 - Attach the 9" pieces of 1x3 to the top and

bottom of both sides of the table. Make sure to line up the bottom pieces with the other trim along the

Step 8 (optional, but recommended) - This

another just in case step, but I think it's wise. Cut a random piece of scrap to 3" (the length from the bottom of the table to the ends of the feet) and add a middle supporting foot. You won't see it, but it will ensure that your table won't sag over time. bottom to create a clean line.

is

And there you have it, a completed sofa table.

P.S. For some tips on prepping MDF for paint you can check out: http://www.takethesidestreet.com/2011/05/how-to-prep-mdf-for-paint.html Take the Side Street Sofa Table Plans PAGE 6 www.takethesidestreet.com