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    A Tailoring Manual
    A Tailoring Manual
    A Tailoring Manual
    Ebook236 pages1 hour

    A Tailoring Manual

    By Gertrude Strickland

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    About this ebook

    “A Tailoring Manual” is a classic guide to tailoring with a specific focus on producing woman's outfits and clothing. Written in simple, plain language and full of helpful illustrations, “A Tailoring Manual” is not to be missed by novice needle-workers and those looking for new ideas and inspiration. Includes full instructions for making skirts, dresses, blouses, socks and stockings, and much more. Many vintage books such as this are increasingly scarce and expensive. It is with this in mind that we are republishing this volume now in an affordable, modern, high-quality edition complete with a specially-commissioned new introduction on tailoring.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJan 25, 2013
    ISBN9781447481331
    A Tailoring Manual

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      Book preview

      A Tailoring Manual - Gertrude Strickland

      GENERAL SUGGESTIONS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

      Fit both sides of a garment - Since few people are identical size on the two sides, each side of a garment should he fit while on the model. The center front and hack bastings are used as a guide in keeping the garment placed correctly on the figure.

      Padding shoulders - Where shoulders are unequal in height, a thicker pad should be used on the low shoulder, to equalize the shoulder heights thus making a better appearing garment from the outside.

      Padding hollows - Where a person has hollows in front shoulders, they may be filled out by padding with wadding thus giving the garment a better appearance in the fit.

      To avoid ripping - Be sure that each part of the garment is accurately fitted and carefully basted before any machine stitching is done.

      Stitch length - Machine stitch length should be the same throughout the garment. From 15 to 20 stitches per inch may be used, the longer stitches being used for the bulky materials. Stitching should be tried on double thickness of material and checked to determine the correct stitch length.

      Hemming stitches - in wool or silk are made about 1/4 inch apart and not pulled too tightly.

      Pressing - In handling any wool garment each seam must be carefully pressed before crossed with a second seam. In an edge seam, the seam is first pressed broad open from the wrong side. From the right side the seam is then rolled slightly to facing side so that the facing edge does not show from the outside of the garment. Baste along folded edge, steam, remove bastings and re-steam to remove basting imprints before they are allowed to dry. Pressing wool bone dry may leave a shiny surface.

      Edge seams - Finished edges are likely to be thick, as four thicknesses of material are present. To prevent an abrupt edge appearing, trim away one seam edge slightly narrower, thus allowing the cut edges to be staggered within the garment fold.

      Shoulder pads in garment - Shoulder pads should be adjusted to the correct thickness for the first fitting and should be tacked into correct position so that each successive fitting of the garment will hang correctly throughout its construction.

      EQUIPMENT

      Cutting table

      Sewing machine

      Pressing equipment

      Sleeve board

      Seam board

      Pressing cloth

      Velvet board

      Steam iron

      Flatiron

      Tailor’s iron

      Tailor’s press pad

      Sheet for shrinking

      Shears - with sharp point - 7-1/2″ or 8″

                Pinking shears

      Buttonhole cutter

      Yardstick or square

      Tracing wheel

      Tracing board

      Tailor’s chalk (preferably waxed white

                                  and colored)

      Needles (7 to 10)

      Thimble

      Pins

      Thread (silk for stitching)

      Full-length mirror

      Buttonhole punch

      Hem marker

      Hardwood paddle

      Basting thread (double duty, mercerised)

      Tape line

      Beeswax

      The above equipment will be used in the tailoring class, but for home tailoring one may improvise and get good results with less equipment.

      Laboratory Equipment that may be made at Home.

      Press pads and stands may easily be made at home and will afford great convenience when doing home sewing. The dimensions given are approximate measurements. The materials used in the seam board, sleeve board, and the sawdust for pads should be of hard wood to eliminate any possibility of pitch appearing.

      Plate 1

      Press Pad

      1. The press pad is made of sturdy duck or similar material. Cut two pieces and stitch together leaving a small opening for turning and stuffing. The bag is stuffed tightly with the sawdust and the opening securely sewn shut.

      This pad is used in steaming any part of a garment where a shaped surface is formed, as in darts. Being curved, the fabric conforms to the curve of the pad and produces a shape that more easily fits the curve of the body. (Plate 1)

      Plate 2

      Press pad for sleeve

      2. Press pad for sleeve is made the same as the press pad. The large end is used in steaming and shaping edge curves as in the upper curve of a sleeve cap. The small end is convenient for steaming the lower sleeve edge. (Plate 2)

      Plate 3

      Seam Board

      3. Seam board. This board has no covering and is used raw. It is used in pressing open any seams, especially those which are difficult to get at, such as points in a collar or lapel. (Plate 3)

      Plate 4

      Sleeve Board

      4. Sleeve board. This board is padded like the ironing board. It is not only convenient in pressing when sewing, but when ironing the family laundry. (Plate 4)

      BIAS

      Plate 5

      Cutting and Joining Bias

      Cutting Bias - To cut a true bias a piece of fabric is folded so that the warp or length grain falls along the woof or cross grain. The bias formed is a true bias. Cut bias the desired width.

      Fabric should always be folded from the same angle on the fabric, otherwise the design in the fabric will not match.

      All bias used as a trim or a binding should be cut on the true bias. (Plate 5)

      Plate 6

      Joining bias on lengthwise grain

      Joining Bias - All ends of bias should be cut along the length grain of the fabric so that when bias is joined the length grain runs in the same direction throughout the bias strip. (Plate 6)

      CURVED EDGES

      Plate 7

      Outside curve notched and turned in

      1. Outside Curve - Where an outside curve appears the seam around the curve is notched to the stitching line before the fabric is turned right side out. This notched seam prevents folds from appearing within the garment edge. (Plate 7)

      Plate 8

      Inside curve clipped and turned out

      2. Inside Curve - Where an inside curve appears, as a neckline or an armscye, the seam is clipped to the stitching line to allow for spread when pressed. (Plate 8)

      MATERIALS USED IN THE MAKING OF COATS OR SUITS

      Wool fabric with the ends torn or with a thread pulled and cut along the grain.

      Lining for garment with the ends torn, or with a thread pulled and cut along the grain.

      Canvas--ends torn or with the thread pulled and cut along the grain (Use any one of the following)

      Wigan.

      Haircloth or horsehair.

      Tailor’s linen.

      Shoulder pads (may be made from cotton wadding).

      Linen tape.

      Lead weights for jacket hem.

      Interlining (Optional. Suggested fabrics: cotton, wool, or chamois in very cold countries).

      Buttons.

      Buttonhole twist for buttonholes, French tacks, decorative tacks, hand stitching on garment edges and for sewing on buttons.

      Silk thread - (preferred) two spools or more.

      Silk or rayon bias tape for fabrics that fray.

      Zipper for skirt.

      Hooks and eyes for skirt belt.

      Grosgrain ribbon for skirt belt.

      SHRINKING

      Wool - All wool, whether laDeled preshrunk or not, should be shrunk before making into a garment.

      Wet a sheet and wring out as dry as possible. Smooth out the sheet on cutting table. Lay the folded wool on one half of the sheet width and fold the remaining half width of sheet over the wool. Fold or roll the sheet and wool together loosely and allow to stand six hours, but preferably overnight.

      While fabric is damp, pull it diagonally into shape until it lies square with the table edges.

      Smooth, closely woven woolens will need to be pressed, but loosely woven or nubby fabrics may be stretched smoothly on cutting table and allowed to dry.

      To press wool, leave folded wrong side out. Place on board pressing table with fabric squared to edges.

      With warm iron press lightly with the length grain, but not over the

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