Lonely Planet Myanmar (Burma)

Myanmar

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Myanmar

Myanmar's Top 10

Need to Know

What's New

If You Like

Month by Month

Itineraries

Before You Go

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Yangon

Sights

Activities

Tours

Courses

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Southwestern Myanmar

Thanlyin & Kyauktan

Bago

Pathein

Chaung Tha Beach

Ngwe Saung Beach

Southeastern Myanmar

Southeastern Myanmar Highlights

Mon State

Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)

Mawlamyine

Around Mawlamyine

Ye

Kayin State

Hpa-an

Around Hpa-an

Myawaddy

Tanintharyi Region

Dawei

Myeik

Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago

Kawthoung

Bagan & Central Myanmar

Bagan & Central Myanmar Highlights

YangonMandalay Highway

Taungoo (Toungoo)

Nay Pyi Taw

Meiktila

YangonBagan Highway

Pyay

Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra)

Magwe

Bagan

Nyaung U

Old Bagan

Myinkaba

New Bagan (Bagan Myothit)

Around Bagan

Mt Popa

Salay

Pakokku

Monywa

Around Monywa

Temples of Bagan

Old Bagan

North Plain

Central Plain

Myinkaba Area

New Bagan Area

South Plain

Nyaung U Area

Eastern Myanmar

Eastern Myanmar Highlights

Inle Lake & Around

Nyaungshwe

Inle Lake

Taunggyi

Pindaya

Kalaw

Thazi

Kyaingtong & Border Areas

Kyaingtong (Kengtung)

Mong La

Tachileik

Kayah State

Loikaw

Mandalay & Around

Mandalay & Around Highlights

Mandalay

Around Mandalay

Amarapura

Inwa (Ava)

Sagaing

Mingun

Paleik

Northern Myanmar

Northern Myanmar Highlights

Mandalay to Lashio

Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo)

Pyin Oo Lwin to Kyaukme

Kyaukme

Hsipaw

Lashio

Mogok

Mandalay to Lashio

Myitkyina

Indawgyi Lake

Bhamo (Banmaw)

Shwegu

Katha

Kyaukmyaung

Shwebo

The Far North

Putao

Western Myanmar

Western Myanmar Highlights

Rakhine State

Ngapali Beach

Kan Thar Ya Beach

Sittwe (Aykab)

Mrauk U

Around Mrauk U

Chin State

Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)

Mindat

Kalaymyo (Kalay)

Tiddim

Rihkhawdar

Falam

Hakha

Understand

Understand Myanmar

Myanmar Today

History

People & Religious Beliefs of Myanmar

Aung San Suu Kyi

Government, the Economy & Human Rights

Eating in Myanmar

Architecture & Arts

Environment & Wildlife

Survive

Responsible Travel

Package Tours

Goods & Services

Social Interactions

Charity & Donations

Volunteerism

Environmental Concerns

Directory AZ

Accommodation

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Etiquette

GLBTI Travellers

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Meditation Courses

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travel Agencies

Travel with Children

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Health

Before You Go

In Myanmar

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Special Features

Temples of Myanmar

Welcome to Myanmar

It's the dawn of a more democratic era in this extraordinary land, where the landscape is scattered with gilded pagodas and the traditional ways of Asia endure.

Golden Wonders

‘This is Burma', wrote Rudyard Kipling. ‘It will be quite unlike any land you know about.’ Amazingly, over a century later, Myanmar retains the power to surprise and delight even the most jaded of travellers. Be dazzled by the 'winking wonder' of Shwedagon Paya. Contemplate the 4000 sacred stupas scattered across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief at the Golden Rock at Mt Kyaiktiyo, teetering impossibly on the edge of a chasm. These are all important Buddhist sights in a country where pious monks are more revered than rock stars.

The New Myanmar

In 2015, Myanmar voted in its first democratically elected government in more than half a century. Sanctions have been dropped and the world is rushing to do business here. Relaxing of censorship has led to an explosion of new media and an astonishing openness in public discussions of once-taboo topics. Swathes of the county, off-limits for years, can now be freely visited. Modern travel conveniences, such as mobile phone coverage and internet access, are now common, but largely confined to the big cities and towns, where the recent economic and social improvements are most obvious.

Traditional Life

In a nation with more than 100 ethnic groups, exploring Myanmar can often feel like you've stumbled into a living edition of the National Geographic, c 1910! For all the momentous recent changes, Myanmar remains at heart a rural nation of traditional values. Everywhere, you'll encounter men wearing skirt-like longyi, both genders smothered in thanakha (traditional make-up) and betel-chewing grannies with mouths full of blood-red juice. People still get around in trishaws and, in rural areas, horse and cart. Drinking tea – a British colonial affectation – is enthusiastically embraced in thousands of traditional teahouses.

Simple Pleasures

Thankfully, the pace of change is not overwhelming, leaving the simple pleasures of travel in Myanmar intact. Drift down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River in an old river steamer or luxury cruiser. Stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay of Bengal. Trek through pine forests to minority villages scattered across the Shan Hills without jostling with scores of fellow travellers. Best of all, you'll encounter locals who are gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate, inquisitive and passionate – they want to play a part in the world, and to know what you make of their world. Now is the time to make that connection.

Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay | SUWATCHAI PLUEMRUETAI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Myanmar

By Simon Richmond, Writer

It doesn't matter whether this is your first or 51st visit to Myanmar: you won't fail to notice the energy, hope and possibilities for the future that hang in the air. Exiles are returning, joining others in rising to the challenge of bringing their country into the 21st century at the same time as preserving the best of the past. Myanmar has many problems to fix but its people remain as stoic and charming as ever. Slow down, sit, listen and connect with them – it's the best way to appreciate what's truly golden about this land.

Myanmar's Top 10

Shwedagon Paya

Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s (Rangoon's) gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya is equal parts religious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination ceremony or fortune-telling session. If you’re looking for a reason to linger in Yangon before heading elsewhere in the country, this is it.

PATRICK FOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Inle Lake

Almost every visitor to Myanmar makes it to Inle Lake and for good reason: vast and serene, the lake is large enough for everyone to come away with their own, unique experience of life here. If you’re counting days, hit the hot spots: the temples, markets and floating gardens. With more time, you can explore the remote corners of the lake, visit the fishing villages around it, or hike in the nearby hills. Whatever you do, the memories of gliding across Inle’s placid waters will stay with you forever.

OCTOBERSONATA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Bagan

Despite damage wrought by the 2016 earthquake, the 3000-plus temples scattered across the plains of Bagan remain an awesome sight. Most of the 11th- to 13th-century vintage temples have been renovated, as Bagan is an active religious site and place of pilgrimage. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the top sunset-viewing spots, but they can be avoided. Pedal off on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruined temples, or float over the incredible scene in a hot-air balloon.

NICK FOX / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sagaing

A place of pilgrimage for Myanmar Buddhists, Sagaing is an easy day trip from Mandalay. Its stint as a royal capital may have been brief (just four years) but it established itself and endures as an intellectual centre of gravity for Buddhist traditions. The town is dominated by low hills covered by numerous white and gold stupas – a spectacular sight in themselves. But also take time to visited the cave monastery Tilawkaguru, filled with some of the most impressive preserved cave paintings in the country.

CHINNAPHONG MUNGSIRI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Mawlamyine

A virtual time capsule of the Raj, Mawlamyine has changed little since the colonial era. The former capital of British Burma, Mawlamyine’s mix of historic architecture, imposing churches, hill-top temples and a busy harbour remains so timeless that you can still see why writers George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling drew on the city for inspiration. Surrounding Mawlamyine are tropical islands and deep caves, as well as villages where the area’s unique Mon culture remains strong, yet visitor numbers remain mysteriously low, allowing all the more space for you.

Win Sein Taw Ya | R.M. NUNES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Myeik Archipelago

About 800 barely populated islands with white-sand beaches sitting in a turquoise sea, some of the best diving in the region, roving sea gypsies and barely a hotel or tourist to be seen. It’s hard to believe that a place like the Myeik Archipelago still exists in Southeast Asia. Accessing these gorgeous islands takes time and is not cheap, but those who make the investment will get to live out every beach junkie’s fantasy in one of the last unknown areas of Asia.

ETHAN DANIELS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Mrauk U

The temples, monasteries, ruined palace and crumbling city walls of the former Rakhine capital of Mrauk U stand as a permanent reminder of what a remarkable place it must have been at its zenith in the 16th century. Back then, wide-eyed Western visitors compared the city to London or Venice. But Mrauk U is no museum piece; its temples are surrounded by working villages and emerald-green rice fields. Best of all, Mrauk U sees no more than 5000 foreigners a year, so you’re likely to have this ruined splendour to yourself.

othaung Paya | RAFAL CICHAWA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Hsipaw

Attractive, laid-back Hsipaw is ideally placed for quick, easy hikes into fascinating Shan and Palaung villages, as well as more strenuous ones to barely visited hamlets. The surrounding area feels far less discovered than the treks available around Kalaw, or much of Southeast Asia. Hsipaw itself is a historic town with a royal past – it has its very own Shan palace – and an area known as ‘Little Bagan’, full of ancient stupas. There's also a great morning market by the Dokhtawady River.

SCOTT BIALES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Kalaw

With its cooler temperatures, higher elevations and many locals descended from Nepali Gurkha soldiers, Kalaw boasts an almost Himalayan atmosphere. Unsurprisingly, this is one of the best places in Myanmar for upcountry treks, with the authorities relaxed about foreign visitors getting off the beaten track. As you hike through the Danu, Pa-O and Taung Yo villages that dot the forests, fields, trails and roads that link Kalaw with Inle Lake, you’ll get a real insight into the lives of the hill peoples who populate the area.

OSTILL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Rih Lake

Stranded in splendid isolation on the Myanmar–India border, Rih Lake is small but perfectly formed: a heart-shaped, mystical body of water surrounded by lushly forested hills. As spectacular as the lake is, the rugged journey here through the little-seen mountains, valleys and villages of northern Chin State is also memorable. Only a handful of foreign travellers visit each year, so you are guaranteed attention from the friendly locals. Don’t expect much in the way of comfort, or tourist facilities. Instead, revel in being way off the beaten track.

PHOTO BY NGCHA (OWN WORK) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (HTTP://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/ BY-SA/3.0)], VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS ©

Need to Know

Currency

Burmese kyat (K)

Language

Burmese

Visas

Everyone requires a visa. Single-entry tourist visas last 28 days.

Money

Cash mainly. ATMs accepting international cards are available in major cities and tourist areas. Bring pristine US bills for exchange.

Mobile Phones

Mobile phone numbers begin with 09. Prepaid SIM cards are widely available and can be used in unlocked phones. If your handset is locked, it's possible to buy a smartphone in Myanmar for as little as US$80

Time

Myanmar Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus 6½ hours)

When to Go

High Season (Dec–Feb)

A Rains least (if at all, in some places) and is not so hot.

A Book accommodation and transport well ahead for this busy travel season.

Shoulder (Oct & Nov, Mar & Apr)

A March to May, Yangon often reaches 104ºF (40ºC). Areas around Bagan and Mandalay are hotter.

A Cooler in the hill towns of Shan State.

A All forms of transport booked solid during Thingyan in April.

Low Season (May–Sep)

A The southwest monsoon starts mid-May and peaks from July to September.

A The dry zone between Mandalay and Pyay gets the least rain. Rain can make roads impassable anywhere (especially in the delta region).

Useful Websites

Go-Myanmar.com (www.go-myanmar.com) Plenty of up-to-date travel-related information and advice.

Myanmar Tourism Federation (http://myanmar.travel) Inspirational pictures, good background information and travel tips.

Online Burma/Myanmar Library (www.burmalibrary.org) Database of books and past articles on Myanmar.

Ministry of Hotels & Tourism (www.myanmartourism.org) Government department with some useful information.

Myanmar Now (www.myanmar-now.org) News and features site.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/myanmar) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

The US dollar is the only foreign currency that’s readily exchanged and/or accepted as payment for goods and services.

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$50

A Hostel or guesthouse: US$10–30

A Local restaurant or street-stall meal: US$2–5

A Travel on buses: US$1–5

Midrange: US$50–150

A Double room in a midrange hotel: US$50–100

A Two-course meal in midrange restaurant: US$5–10

A Hiring a guide: US$10 per person per day

A Pathein parasol: US$1–20

Top end: More than US$150

A Double room in top-end hotel: US$150–500

A Two-course restaurant meal plus bottle of wine: US$40–70

A Driver and guide: US$100 per day

A Fine lacquerware bowl: US$200

Opening Hours

Government offices and post offices 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday

Shops 9am to 6pm

Restaurants 11am to 9pm

Cafes and teashops 6am to 6pm

Banks 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday

Arriving in Myanmar

Yangon International Airport If you haven’t pre-arranged a transfer with your hotel or travel agent, a taxi from the airport to the city centre will be K8000 to K12,000; it takes 45 minutes to one hour.

Mandalay International Airport A whole/shared taxi into Mandalay costs K12,000/4000 (one hour).