Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE
June - July 2006

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine

N°1
Complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
 Contents 3

Herzlich
Willkommen! E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving 5
In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese Getting there and oriented
schöne Stadt. History 6
From Roman invasion to football invasion
Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadt-
führer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt Glossary 7
und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum The basics
die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt. Events 8
What’s going on
Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten
sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, World Cup events 11
Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen be- Football-related festivities
suchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen. Kölsch 12
Watery local delight
Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch!
Festivals 13
Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informa- Join in the party
Sco
tionen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in
englischer Sprache. Where to stay 14
From park bench to Park Grand
Nightlife 28
Bars, clubs and general debauchery
Restaurants 21
From fine dining to fast food
What to see 32



#



 Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Sights in and around town
  FRaNkFuRt MuNiCH CologNE Hamburg HaNovER


"
 april - May 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006

Daytrips 37
New Look
Revamped In Your
Pocket
Visiting Brühl Castle, or shopping in Bonn?
Museums by
night

Getting around
Join the all-night
culture fest

Feature 1
38
Trains, planes and taxis
Short description of the
feature. Should be max.
3 lines.
Football events
!
 Feature 2 - max Win or lose, this is
Revamped In Your where to party
Pocket 2 lines
Short description of the Football events Harbour tours Feature 2 - max
feature. Should be max.

!" Win or lose, this is Down in the docks
The river tour season
3 lines. where to party 2 lines

Mail & Phones

Short description of the
opens Football events

40
feature. Should be max.



 N°21 - €1.75 N°13 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75 River tours N°1 - €1.75 Win or lose, this is N°1 - ??price??
3 lines.
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Wine and dine on the www.inyourpocket.com where to party www.inyourpocket.com
Rhine

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Heed your calling
kaiSERSlautERN lEipzig Nuremberg RuHRgEbiEt Stuttgart
including

Shopping 41
Dortmund,
June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 gelsenkirchen, June - July 2006
Essen and
bochum

Ruhrpott
industrial
tourism
Up towers, down shafts

automobiles
Souvenirs, food and books
Visiting Mercedes and
going medieval Porsche
A tour through the old

Directory
town
Football events

43
Win or lose, this is
Football events where to party
Win or lose, this is
where to party

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

Brought back to
Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers
Going Palatine life
Strolling in the forest Plagwitz’ industrial
revival

Maps & Index

N°1 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75 N°1 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

N°1 - FREE COPY

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Street register 45
City map 46-47
Transport map 48-49
Index 50
Sco

June - July 2006

tel: +49 (0)30 27907981, germany@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
4 ForeWord arriVing 5

Cologne is a city that has a strong sense of identity

and individuality. Whether you are spending a week
or two getting to know the city or just passing
through you are left with a sense that there was
more to see and do. The museums are amongst
the best and most renowned in Europe, the
cathedral and various churches throughout the city
are virtually painted with history, the music scene is
thriving and the beer is a world unto itself. Best of
all; Cologne is a city that likes tourists. The Koelsch
people are proud of their city, and they love to show
it off. After witnessing Carnival it is hard to imagine
Cologne ever being more boisterous, but there
may be surprises left in store when the World Cup
knocks at the door.
Enjoy Cologne, and remember to write in to
cologne@inyourpocket.com with your experiences
in town, and your opinion of this guide.
City guides to 40 cities
around Europe online free:
www.inyourpocket.com
Welcome to Cologne Arriving by plane Arriving by bus
Köln/Bonn airport (Flughafen; www.koeln-bonn-airport. International buses and coaches depart from Breslauer
If you haven’t seen Cologne, de) is 17km south of Cologne’s centre, and is practically Platz, at the rear of Hauptbahnhof station, where you will
you haven’t seen Germany” halfway Bonn. It is serviced by S13 S-Bahn trains, depart- find the Eurolines kiosk as well as offices for the domestic
- this ancient Roman saying ing from the station underneath Terminal 2. Some DB operators. The bus station is just an ugly depot, and it’s
is as relevant today as it was regional and long-distance trains also stop at the airport. better to wait inside the train station, or perhaps in the
2000 years ago, because our The journey to Hauptbahnhof (the main station) takes nearby Cathedral.
beautiful city on the Rhine is around 20 minutes and costs €2. Tickets can be purchased
more diverse than most other
at vending machines in the station or from the DB service
cities in the country. desk inside Terminal 2, and do not require validation. You
can also hail a taxi from outside the arrival terminal. The
Cologne has a lot to offer trip into town takes 20-25 minutes and costs around €25.
beside Kölsch, Carnival and Six car rental companies have offices in hall between
Churches. Founded 2000 terminals 1 and 2.
years ago by the Romans,
Cologne is one of the oldest
cities in Germany, ranked fourth for its population of just Arriving by train
over one million, and one of the most popular destina- The main train station is Köln Hauptbahnhof, which is a
tions for both German and foreign visitors. busy transportation hub. International trains including
high-speed connections to Paris and Amsterdam pass
I am convinced that our foreign visitors - whether they through Cologne, and there are excellent connections to
are football fans or not - will feel at home in the Cathedral all major German cities. S-Bahn commuter trains leave
city. Enjoy the sights that Cologne has to offer, its friendly
atmosphere and culture.
from the last two platforms, while U-Bahn metro trains
depart from the station underneath Hauptbahnhof. The
station itself is a mini shopping centre, and contains
bars, restaurants, post office (open 06:00-22:00, Sun
Fritz Schramma
07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small, pricey supermarket.
Most of the stores within the Hauptbahnhof operate
Lord Mayor of Cologne between the hours of 08:00 and 21:00, while the sta-
tion itself is open 24 hours to cater for overnight train
passengers. There is a police station located at the
front of the station, and constant police patrols keep
Cover story the riff-raff at bay. JvM

Cologne’s majestic medieval

Dom Cathedral towers over the
Rhine, flanked by the railway
bridge leading to the adjacent
Hauptbahnhof station. renta

Editorial
JvM

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Editorial Contributors
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Research Morwenna Parkyn
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
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Cover photo: The Dom Cathedral and
the railway bridge over the Rhine
© Günther Ventur, Kölner-Bilder
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General Manager Stephan Krämer
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
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Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

 history
50 AD Romans colonise an existing settlement and call it
“Colonia”. Previous to that the area was inhabited by local
Germanic tribes, and was called the Ubii village.
450 AD Roman rule collapses in the Rhineland region. Many
of the old Roman structures have survived as ruins to this
day, and form a large part of Cologne’s history.
1074 Cologne citizens revolt against the ruling Archbishop
Anno II, and are thoroughly oppressed for their troubles.
1164 The relics of the Three Kings of Milan are “liberated” by
the crusaders and given to the Archishop Rainald von Dassel.
These still reside within the Dom Cathedral.
1180 After the continued expansion of the city, Cologne
becomes the largest city in the empire. Trade is important
to the Cologne economy and the ports along the Rhine form
an important hub of economic activity.
1248 Construction begins on the Dom Cathedral.
1388 Cologne University is founded by Pope Urban VI, the
first town university in Europe.
1475 Cologne is given the official status of being a free
town of the empire.
16th century Construction is halted on the Dom
1740 Potatoes make their triumphant debut in Cologne.
1794 French troops occupy Cologne, which influences both
Cologne In Your Pocket
the amount of trade and the type of trade, thus limiting
economic growth. The witdraw in 1814 as a result of losing
a key battle near Leipzig.
1823 The first organised Carnival parade takes place, and
starts an enduring tradition of controlled insanity.
1839 The Stollwerck factory opens, and becomes the
forerunner to the chocolate factory. The Cologne Art
Association is founded.
1842 Work resumes on the Dom Cathedral
1880 The construction on the Dom is completed. The top-
most spire reaches 157 metres.
1918 “Kölsch” beer is christened.
1933 The National Socialist party attains power and relieves
the Mayor of office.
1942-1945 90 percent of the Altstadt is destroyed in night
bombings by the Allies. Bags of flour instead are dropped
onto the Dom Cathedral instead of bombs as either a sign
of power or respect.
1954 The German football team wins the World Cup.
1968 Work begins on the U-Bahn system
1976 Museum Ludwig is founded after a donation of 350
works from the Ludwig family’s private collection.
1981 The telecommunications tower is
erected with a revolving restaurant on top.
The restaurant has since closed.
1985 The twelve Altstadt churches are
systematically restored and refurbished.
1986 The Philharmonie is opened,
revealing a fault in the architectural design
where the roof forms a walkway next to
the Ludwig Museum.
1993 The Stollwerck Chocolate museum
is founded at the Rheinauhafen by the
former chairman on the Stollwerck
company.
1996 The Musical Dom is built, to the
delight and chagrin of many locals. The
musical shows are quite impressive, but
the aesthetic style of the big blue dome
turns many people off.
2 0 0 0 Fri t z S c h ra m m a i s el e c te d
Oberbürgermeister (mayor) of Cologne
2004 Rheinenergie Stadion, venue of the
World Cup soccer matches, is opened
as a replacement for the Muengersdorf
stadium.
2005 World Youth Day takes place in
Cologne, and the festivity is blessed by
the Pope.
2006 The FIFA World Cup takes place.
Sco
glossary 
Driving really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one
of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in
Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at
prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.
by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h
or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in built-
up areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Visas
Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter
truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website
if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
as those headlights in the distance behind you may get Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow
uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn of goods and traffic between member states. This means that
at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the
the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from
by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.
had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal
maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.
The Rhein
Language Occasionally in springtime the Rhine river builds up due to the
melting of the snow in Switzerland, and overflows out onto
The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the banks. There have been times in history where the flood
the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it reached well into the old town, and caused large amounts
spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t of damage and loss of life. The dangers from it today are
be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise less dire due to the temporary flood defences that can be
a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello quickly erected.
(gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice
that written German has some odd characters, such as the
ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with Speaking Kölsch
combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, Cologne’s Kölsch dialect can turn your working understanding
ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of the German language into water. Not only are there differ-
of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de. ent pronunciations of words, but there are also completely
different words for some things as well. The dialect is mostly
Money used by the older generations, and mostly with a patriotic
flair. One of the distinctive sounds in the accent is the “ch”
The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM sound gets turned from an “ik” to an “ish”, and the “g” gets
machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. pronounced like a “y” on occasion. When the younger gen-
German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in erations use the accent they are often humorously alluding
their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay to the sense of pride that people from Cologne have in their
any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two city and their identity.
to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to
one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the
Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and
will charge a commission.
Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the
euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is
the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins
in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s
Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins,
and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the
banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of
euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.
Safety
Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than
the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no
special preparations you should make. Although Germany
has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these
incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German
phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more
closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and
racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive
level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions:
sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.
Time
Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military
time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing
away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s Sco
June - July 2006
8 eVents eVents 9

13 July 2006, 20:00 24 June, 11:00

Theatre, Opera & Dance Eric Clapton Barbara Bechtloff Europe In Your Pocket
Find information about the more remarkable of these Kölnarena Willy-Brandt-Platz-1, tel. 0221 80 21 Atelier Colonia, Körnerstr. 37-39
venues in the Sightseeing chapter.
7 July 2006, 20:00
Musical Dom Goldgasse 1, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 0180 Joe Jackson Opera
515 25 30, www.musical-dome-koeln.de. Not unlike walking Live Music Hall, Lichtstr. 30, tel. 0221 954 29 90 2 June, 19:00
around a vast and creaky caravan, even the staff here call the La Gare de Perpignan
city’s ghastly rock music venue the big blue garbage bag. Whilst 14-16 July Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr.1, tel. 221 223 82
there’s nothing wrong in principal with modern architecture, this Summer Jam Festival
place simply stinks. The Queen musical “We Will Rock You” Europe’s largest Reggae and World Music festival 2 June, 19:30
(www.queen-musical.de) has been running since late 2000. Fuehlinger See Der Held der westlichen Welt
Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
Opera (Oper der Stadt Köln) Offenbachplatz, MNeu- 23 July, 19:00
markt, tel. 284 00, www.buehnenkoeln.de. Set amidst The Rolling Stones 3 June, 19:00
the trendiest part of the shopping district, this opera house RheinEnergieStadion Night of Italian Opera
never fails to impress. There are of course performances of Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 821 21 21
classics such as Wagner and other composers, and they 26 July 2006, 19:00
often have more modern operas as well. Jamie Cullum 4 June, 19:30
Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 91 71 200 La Forza del Destino
Philharmonie Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahnhof, Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
tel. 280 280, www.koelner-philharmonie.de. Opened in Exhibitions
1986, the Philharmonie has become know as one of Germa- Salvador Dalí: La Gare de Perpignan 7 June, 19:30
ny’s leading concert halls. Tickets can be ordered online. Until 25 June Don Pasquale
Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr. 1 Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
RheinEnergieStadion Aachener Strasse, tel. 498 36,
www.stadion-koeln.de. Opened in 2004, this well-equipped Until 5 June 17 June, 13:00
and modern stadium is the venue for the World Cup games Global Players - Deutscher Fußball in aller Welt Jarry Singla & Blumenbein
to be played in Cologne, as well as playing host to some of Deutsches Sport- und Olympiamuseum, Rheinauhafen 1 C. Bechstein Forum,
the biggest names in music. Robbie Williams is scheduled Opern Passagen, Glockengasse 6, tel. 925 85 07
to play in August.
Exhibitions 23 June, 19:30
Tanzbrunnen Rheinweg 1, MMesse Deutz, tel. 821 21 9 June, 18:00 La Cifra In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less
21. The Tanzbrunnen (Dance Fountain) is a great open-air Jazz & Art Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84 than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer
venue for live acts. It sits next to the Rheinpark, and plays Kunstwerk, Deutz-Mülheimer Str. 127-129, tel. 880 07 67 World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In
host to many big shows and performances. Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also
Theatre online as both browseable text and a free downloadable
11 June, 15:00 PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your
Tickets Drachenreiter Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket
guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams
KölnTicket Große Neugasse 2, tel. 28 01, www. Junges Theater Bonn, Hermannstr. 50-52, tel. 46 36 72
and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere,
koelnticket.de. Tickets for nearly all cultural and sports new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and
events, available online in German (pay by credit card) or 11 June, 14:30 & 19:30 Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of
from their office. We Will Rock You the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at
Musical-Dome, Goldgasse 1, tel. 577 90 publisher@inyourpocket.com for more details. You can also
Events 11 June, 19:30
keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on
to www.inyourpocket.com/press.
A midsummer night’s dream
Classical music Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0
10 June, 20:00
WDR Sinfonieorchester Köln 14 June, 15:30
Brahms, Strawinsky Hänsel und Gretel / Hans and Gretel
Philharmonie Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 221 2840

6/7 July, 20:00 15 June, 20:00

The Ten Tenors Rolling Stones un-PLACK-ed Tour
Philharmonie Theater im Hof, Roonstr. 54, tel. 35 68 122

From 25 July, 20:00 15 June, 15:30

19th Kölner Sommerfestival 2006 Have you seen my little boy?
Martha Graham Dance Company Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0
Philharmonie
23 June, 19:30
Concerts Aymineh
15 June 2006, 18.30 Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87
Deep Purple
Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 917 12 00 24 June, 20:00
Arcipelago Circo Teatro
11 July 2006, 19:00 Schokoladenmuseum, Rheinauhafen 1a, tel. 931 88 80
James Blunt
Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 0221 821 31 83 Sco Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

10 eVents
Gay events It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose
14-16 July
Christopher Street Day The idea that this could be
Th e annual festi val o f C ol ogne’s gay and l esbian one of the most open and
community fiercely contested World
Cup tournaments in history
has been doing the rounds
3 June, 19:30 in the press – especially
Africa Gay & Friends Evening
the UK press – ever since
Sasch’s Bar, Wetzlarerstr. 2, tel. 88 75 471 England beat Argentina in a
rather meaningless friendly
6 June, 20:00 match, held in Switzerland
Knacki Deuser / Theater & Music at the end of last year. (The
Gloria, Apostelnstr. 11, tel. 258 36 56 match was also memorable
for England captain David
19 June, 19:00 B e c k h a m’s p r e - g a m e
Wir sind, wie wir sind / Party comment that ‘it is a neutral
Rubicon, Rubensstr. 8-10, tel. 19 44 6 venue for both teams.’)
Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions
the tournament is ‘open’, League success with
Children’s events in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho
have a chance’, has been
3 June, 15:00 increasingly winning friends will be looking for another
The ugly duckling and influencing people. World Cup triumph with
By H.C. Andersen, for children from 5 years To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto
Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87 supporters reading this
out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely
10 June, 16:00, no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or
The fattest Pinguin of Pol without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney
Childern’s theatre, from 3 years metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse
Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It
should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England
17 June, 16:00 currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they
Being a lion is wonderful have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and
Circusmusical by Gertrud Pigor, from 4 years in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too
many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance.
Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one
of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it
has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their
coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking
players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his
first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the
rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat.
England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so.
With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope
Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window.
They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect
then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope
Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly
the stuff of legend.
Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of
the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in
cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable
even than England of putting together a decent run in the
tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses
the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre
selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more,
and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last
glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all
talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent
challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood.
Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest
challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more
scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also
like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net
often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three
will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in
Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take
the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone
home empty handed.
The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they
will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily
tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen…
Sco
Cologne In Your Pocket
World Cup Fan Fest 11
During the games the city centre will transform into a huge
viewing area, with the three main city squares; Roncalliplatz, Bud or Bit
Heumarkt and Alter Markt allowing public viewing via large
video screens. There will also be a number of gimmicky So you came to Germany to taste the famous local brews?
soccer courts set up in the squares, where punters can try You’re in for a bit of a surprise if you’re planning to order
their luck and perhaps snap a tendon in the process. beer in any of the stadiums or public viewing areas, as one
of the main sponsors of the World Cup is Anheuser-Busch,
the US brewery responsible for Budweiser and whose
There are a number of bars and pubs around town that will
be showing the games live on big screen TVs. The Corkonian interpretation of what beer should taste like differs a bit
from the European viewpoint. As exclusive beer sponsor
has two large screens, and are daily showing games played
all over the world. The Corkonian is, however, at the Alter they have the sole right to promote their beer in and around
Markt (no.51, tel. 221 257 69 31) which is one of the venues the official venues. Thankfully, after years of legal battle,
for the public viewing on big screen TV’s outside, so it almost Bitburger, Germany’s second-largest brewer, is allowed to
defeats the purpose. sell their brew here as well, though not advertise it. Outside
of the official venues, local bars are allowed to sell whatever
The Spor t and Olympia Museum (Rh einauha fen 1, beer they like.
www.sportmuseum-koeln.de, see p.??) have a special
exhibit over the World Cup period called “Global Players-
Deutscher fussball in aller Welt” which focuses on German
football players who have gone on to play in and for other Live acts
countries. The following live acts takeplace during the World Cup.
The Cologne Jazz Night 2006 runs from the 29th of June until On the 26th of June The Strokes will be performing at
the 7th of July at the Musikhochschule, and incorporates the Palladium. Tickets from www.noisenow.de. Palladium,
the World Cup into their performances with the individual Schanzenstrasse 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.palladium-
bands and artists representing all the nations taking part koeln.de.
in the games. The final days of the festival are devoted to
seminars and workshops. On 13 July, Eric Clapton will be playing at the Koelnarena,
Musikhochschule, Dagobertstrasse 38, tel. 221 912 81 and is being supported by the Robert Cray Band, so if you
80) get the chance to stick around after the final you will be in
for a treat. Koelnarena, Willi-Brandt-Platz 2, tel. 221 80 20,
At the Eifelturm Theatre (Eifelstrasse 33, tel. 221 32 17 92, www.eventim.de.
www.eifelturm-koeln.de) there will be a fresh adaptation
of musical The Phantom of the Opera revolving around On 10 June the Guerzenich-Orchestra will be performing
football entitled “Das Phantom des Stadions”. The German- at the open-air Tanzbrunnen (Rheinweg 1, tel. 221 821
langauge musical tells the story of a trapped soul who 21 21). They will be playing works by Mozart, Bizet and
haunts a football stadium, reminiscing about the Glory days Strauss to name a few. For tickets contact Koelnticket at
of German football. tel. 221 28 01.
World Cup Language Guide
Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak
English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing
everything foreign on television and in cinemas into
German, the average local is not exposed to English very
much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms
that may be of use during your trip.
One/two/three/four/five Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier,
beer, please. bitte.
No thanks, I’ll have a Bit Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber
beer instead. ein Bit.
So, who do you think will Was glaubst du, wer
win? gewinnen wird?
Where is the toilet? Wo ist die Toilette?
Where is the stadium? Wo ist das Stadion?
Where is the train Wo ist der Bahnhof?
station?
That was offside. Das war Abseits.
The referee is biased. Der Schiedsrichter ist
parteiisch.
He should have scored Das Tor hätte er schiessen
there. müssen.
He’s hit the post/ Er hat den Pfosten / die
crossbar! Latte getroffen
Take off (player name)! (player name) abziehen!
Bring on (player name) (player name) einwechseln!
Penalty! Elfmeter!
Sco Goal! Toooooooooooooor!
June - July 2006
12 KÖlsCh
The skyline of Cologne
holds two very important
features; th e Dom
Cathedral and the Kölsch
beer breweries. Laws
governing the production
of the fresh, pale beer
state that a brewer y
may only label their beer
Kölsch if they are able to
physically see the Dom,
which generally means a
radius of forty kilometres.
While beer itself has been
brewed in Cologne since
874, the term Kölsch was
first coined in 1918 to
describe the beer brewed
by the Sünner brewery. There is a wide variety of flavours
amongst the different breweries, and often each local has
their favourite. An average year finds the annual consumption
of Kölsch to be around 3 million hectolitres and it seems that
about half of that disappears during Karneval.
The Kölsch that has become synonymous with Karneval
(carnival) is Reissdorf, which has a unique flavour to it that
some describe as burnt, and others as biscuity. There are
about thirty different breweries producing Kölsch, and some
are owned by a conglomerate which in some people’s minds
takes away from the character of the beer. Some breweries
offer organised tours, and in 1999 the Zur Malzmühle
brewery was paid a surprise visit by Bill Clinton.
When drinking Kölsch in a bar or a club you will find the prices
to vary hugely. During happy hour you can find a 200ml glass
for as little as €0.80, while another bar might charge upwards
of €2.80. The difference is largely based on location rather
than quality, and everywhere you go you can expect a decent
glass of beer. A nice place to sample lots of different Kölsch
and other beers is the Biermuseum at Buttermarckt.
Kölsch is traditionally served in a tall 200ml glass called a
Kölsch-Stange. This tendency to serve such small quantities
irritates some drinkers, who feel slightly effeminate (and
thirsty) drinking out of such small and delicate glasses,
although some bars and pubs serve irregular sizes like 300
or 400ml. The major breweries in Cologne have beer houses
© Brauerei Frueh
Cologne In Your Pocket
Carnival
Karneval is Cologne’s most
famous celebration, and
the party spirit invades
everybody. Although the
festival is held in later
wi n ter, i n C ol ogn e i t’s
possible to get a glimpse
of Karneval year round.
Th e o ri gi n s o f t h e
celebration are a mixture of
pagan festivities marking
the transition of seasons and the Christian celebration of
lent, and has been called the “fifth season”. The real meaning
of Karneval these days revolves around breaking free of
inhibition and going bonkers.
The official beginning of Karneval is 11 November (at 11:11),
which is like a warm-up party in preparation for the February
madness. It hits like a hurricane; you are going about your
day, business as usual and then suddenly you are drowned
in a sea of crazy costumes and riotous party-goers. And this
is just the warm-up. The real action begins on a Thursday in
February, seven Sundays before Easter. On this day straw
effigies are raised above the doorways of the pubs and bars.
The purpose of these straw men called Nubbels is to absorb
the sins of the party-goers. This means that when you drink
to an excess and make gratuitous sexual advances towards
many members of the opposite sex your sins are swallowed
and you can have a clear conscience! Not a bad deal, unless
you are the Nubbel.
© Privatbrauerei Gaffel
where you are served by Kölsch waiters called Köbes, who
rush around making sure that no glass is empty. One of the
signals you can give to indicate that you have had enough is
to put your beer coaster on top of the glass. If you go to one
of the breweries beer-halls you should expect to be served
that type of Kölsch, and it is sociopathically bad taste to try
to order a different one, but there is probably always at least
one customer who does.
An ale of two cities
When buying beer it is important to avoid making the
embarrassing social faux-pas of ordering Altbier. Altbier
is a darker beer of a quite similar type to Kölsch that is
brewed mainly around nearby Düsseldorf, and the rivalry
between the two cities finds expression in their choice of
beer. So don’t stroll into a pub in Cologne and wonder why
they do not serve Altbier and similarly expect bemused
looks and mumbled obscenities if you ask for a Kölsch
in Düsseldorf. The rivalry of the two cities is nowadays
light-hearted, but if the point carries past a joke then
some locals can feel offended. After Karneval 2006,
the supermarkets in Cologne had such an oversupply of
unsold Altbier that some had to reduce the price by 60%
just to get rid of it.
Everybody has their favourite brand of Kölsch, and it seems
that the only way to find yours is to try as much as you can.
We’re big fans of Mühlenkölsch, which has its own unique
hoppy flavour. Each local will give you a list of reasons why
their preferred brand is better but at the end of the day it
just comes down to one thing: individuality. This sense of
individuality captivates the spirit of Cologne, and forms a
JvM
big part of the soul of the city.
FestiVals 13
The first night of Karneval is the biggest, and parties rage
throughout the city. The old stone fortifications are a favourite
site for musicians and revellers alike to dance the night away,
and provide a unique backdrop for the festivities. It is tradition
to wear outrageous costumes for Karneval, and half the fun
of the festivities is admiring the creative choice of clothing.
It is not unusual to share an elevator at work with a pirate,
or to witness two people in full gorilla suits arguing about
directions with a taxi driver.
There are often informal and formal processions that pass
through the city during Karneval, with some inviting party-
goers to join in. Streets are closed off for these processions,
and there are almost always musicians playing as they
march, and fire-breathers lighting up the night sky.
Karneval lasts through to Monday (Rosenmontag), when
there is a huge procession of floats that pass through the
streets of the city for 6km, throwing out candy and chocolate.
It is tradition to shout out Kamelle (pronounced kamella) to
get the attention of the passing float members for them to
throw something nice to you. More than 2 million people
each year attend the parade, and hundreds of thousands of
chocolates and candies rain down upon them. Rosenmontag
has a great family atmosphere, and there are always big
smiles on the faces of the children as their bags of collected
candy grows heavier and heavier. Parents can expect to hear
complaints about stomach aches for days afterwards.
The adult’s candy comes in the form of Kölsch beer, which
is drunk in mind-boggling quantities. It is common for kiosks
to raise their beer prices by over 30% during Karneval,
so be warned. Getting a drink inside a bar or pub is like
swimming against the tide, and many people can be found
swilling Kölsch in the streets. Karneval winds down on the
Rosenmontag, and at twelve am on Tuesday the Nubbel is
taken down and ceremoniously burnt, thereby releasing all
the soaked up sins of the Karneval partiers into oblivion - the
poor Nubbel really does get a tough time. Accommodation
during Karneval is scarce, and it is encouraged to book a
year in advance in some hotels.
If you’re interested in carnival culture, there is a year-round
museum dedicated to the history and practices of Karneval
in Cologne west of the centre.
Cologne Carnival Museum, Maar weg 134-136, (M)
Müngersdorf, tel. 221 57 40 00, info@kk-museum.de, www.
kk-museum.de. Admission €4/1. Open 11:00 – 17:00, Thu
10:00-20:00, closed Mon.
ColognePride
Cologne’s other famous
festival is the gay
C ol o g n e P ri d e fe s ti va l,
h e l d f r o m 1 -1 6 J u l y
and culminating in th e
Christopher Street Day
Parade on the last day.
The parade is a celebration
of gay pride and sexual
tol e ra n c e, wi t h s t re e t
parties and processions in
the city centre. The festival
attracts many thousands
of visitors, both from within
Germany and from overseas. For more information visit www.
colognepride.de.
www.inyourpocket.com
June - July 2006
14 Where to stay
Hotel categories are based on the most expensive double
room rate. Prices are rack rates, and are expected to go
through the roof during the World Cup.
Over €200
Hilton B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
13 07 10, fax 13 07 20, info.cologne@hilton.com, hilton.
de/koeln. Opulent designer overtones and an industrial grey
appearance lend a sophisticated air to one of Cologne’s best
hotels. The rooms are, as one would expect, better than excep-
tional, featuring all the necessary gadgets plus beautiful oak
floors and breathtaking views of the Dom. Trivia buffs with be
delighted to learn that the England soccer team will be resting
here during the World Cup. Q AGKLPTUW
Hotel Im Wasserturm B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel.
200 80, fax 2 00 88 88, info@hotel-im-wasserturm.de,
www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de. Housed in an old watertower,
this is one of the most unique places to stay in Cologne, and one
of the most exclusive. The feat of creating a 5-star hotel here
has spawned spacious double-storey suites, beautiful views and
inimitable style. You might end up in a bed used by Madonna or
Brad Pitt. Q (10 singles N180 - 265, 44 doubles N210 - 335,
34 suites N240 - 385). ADGHKLPTU
Hyatt Regency Köln D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer
Freiheit, tel. 828 12 34, fax 828 13 70, cologne@regency.
hyatt.com, cologne.regency.hyatt.com. All of the rooms in
the Hyatt (the first Hyatt in Europe you’ll no doubt be told several
hundred times before you check out) are of the same standard,
which is of course the best possible standard. Vast golden
corridors, immaculate rooms and an awesome suite overlook
the Dom across the river, adding to the effect and making this
one of the loveliest choices in the city. Slightly out of the centre,
but if you can afford to stay here then several taxi rides a day
aren’t going to hurt you. Q (288 doubles N135 - 450, 17 suites
N320 - 1935). ACDFGHKLPTUW
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Intercontinental C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt,
tel. 280 60, fax 28 06 11 11, cologne@ichotels-
group.com, www.cologne.intercontinental.com. A
ludicrously large lobby big ger than most hotels spells
out loud and clear what you can expect at the Intercon-
tinental. Impeccable and delightfully stylish, even the
lowest category rooms here are bordering on awesome.
With showers and baths in every room and copies of the
teachings of Buddha to go with the bibles by the beds
everything is bigger, better, and just that little bit differ-
ent from the rest. Not a bad location either. Q (singles
N160 - 405, 250 doubles N190 - 445, 12 suites N350 -
1850). ACDFGHKLPTUW
Kunibert Der Fiese C-2, Am Bollwerk 1-5, MHeumarkt,
tel. 9 25 46 80, fax 2 58 08 93, info@kunibertderfiese.
de, www.kunibertderfiese.de. One of the best-located
hotels in Cologne, right in the centre of the old town. There is
a bustling restaurant at the front of the hotel, and the building
dates back to 1234 AD. The rooms are basic, and some with
a beautiful Rhine view. The service can sometimes be slow
and vague. Q (9 singles N55 - 155, 9 doubles N65 - 205, 4
triples N85 - 225). AGKRT
Where to stay 15
Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, tel. 202
70, fax 202 78 28, inf o.kol@maritim.de, w w w. €150-200
maritime.de. A swish brass and marble affair with a Crowne Plaza A-3, Habsburgerring 9-13, MRudolphplatz,
glass lift shooting up and down between floors, Maritim tel. 22 80, fax 25 12 06, www.cologne-citycentre.crowne-
plaza.com. Located in a hip area, this is the perfect base for
can be found opposite Heumarkt. As well as boasting
lots of orange and a team of jovial bellboys, there’s DSL access to both the Dom and Altstadt, as well as the trendy cafes,
internet in every room, baths in every room too, and lots restaurants and nightclubs that lie along the Ring’s fringe. If you
of dark wood fittings. Extras include conference facili- ask really nicely the porter will take you up onto the roof, where
ties, a smashing little tearoom and a piano bar. Per fect you get a magnificent view over Cologne from a surprisingly lofty
for both business travellers and loving couples in town height. Q (145 singles N135 - 185, 149 doubles N150 - 200).
for some serious cul ture and a bit of not-so serious ACDFGHKLPRTU
shopping. Q (116 singles N147 - 318, 310 doubles
N165 - 343, 16 suites N398 - 1000). ACDFGH� Dom Hotel C-2, Domkloster 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
KLPTUW 202 40, fax 202 44 44, www.cologne.lemeridien.com.
Location, location, location and a €8.5 million facelift make this
Marriott C-1, Johannisstr. 76-80, MDom/Hauptbahn- spectacular hotel luxury personified. Lots of bright colours and
hof, tel. 94 22 20/94 22 27 77, cologne.marriott@ Italian black marble set the backdrop to services that include
marriotthotels.com, www.colognemarriott.com. Opened breathtaking rooms with complimentary bathrobes, wireless
at the beginning of 2006, this Marriot is an example of how internet and state of the art business facilities, plus all the other
it should be done. The futuristic lobby impresses, without goodies one usually associates with a Le Meridien. If you can
being garish, the martinis in the cocktail lounge have won afford it, or if your company is footing the bill, you can’t do a lot
awards, the rooms are ultra comfortable and the service is better than a night here. Q (66 singles N150 - 395, 45 doubles
impeccable. Q (10 suites N315 - 600, 184 King N165 - 429, N180 - 490, 13 suites N260 - 1100). AGHKLPW
78 Twin N165 - 429, 1 Dom-
suite N365 - 800, 9 Studios
N315 - 600). ADFGH�
KLPRT
Radisson SAS E-2, Messe
Kreisel 3, MKölnmesse, tel.
221 27 72 00, fax 22 12 77
20 10, info.cologne@radis-
sonsas.com, w w w.radis-
sonsas.com. Wi t h sub tl y
styled rooms, prim and proper
concierge and a bustling lobby,
this hotel has something for
ever yone. One might bump
into Sarah Conner in the el-
evator, or perhaps join in the
celebrations with the Brazilian
World Cup fans, who are mak-
ing this hotel home-base for
2006. The fitness area gets
a little crowded when more
than two people use it though.
Q393 rooms (singles N110 -
378, d oubl es N110 - 369,
suites N195 - 480). AD�
FGHKLPRTU
hhhh
Ringhotel Kosmos
Wa l d e c ke r S t r . 1 1 - 1 5 ,
MWaldecker Str, tel. 6 70
90, fax 6 70 93 21, info@kos-
mos-hotel-koeln.de, www.
kosmos-hotel-koeln.de. Lay-
ing unassumingly in wait at the
beginning of the street, this
&INDYOUR(/-%SUITE(/-%INFOURDIFFERENTDESTINATIONSIN"ERLIN
hotel is an oasis in an otherwise /UREXCLUSIVELYFURNISHEDHOTELROOMSANDAPARTMENTSFOUR
STARSERVICE
drab area. The hotel itself has ANDFASCINATINGSURROUNDINGSWILLMAKEYOURSTAYSOMETHINGOUTOFTHE
been family-run for 75 years, ORDINARY"ESIDESTHENORMALHOTELSERVICESSUCHASCLEANINGRECEPTIONAND
with three family members still LAUNDRYWEPROVIDEANUMBEROFAMENITIESLIKESHUTTLESERVICEBIKERENTAL
doing shifts; a sign of commit- ORSHOPPINGSERVICE
ment considering the size of the 4AKEAVACATIONFROMTHEORDINARYnWETAKECAREOFALMOST EVERYTHING

hotel. All the perks you expect, WWWHOME
SUITE
HOMEDE
and prompt service to boot. Q
(55 singles N, 95 doubles N).
Sco ACDGKLPRT

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

16 Where to stay
Dorint Sofitel An Der Messe E-2, Mullheimer Str.
22-24, Deutz, MKöln Messe, tel. 80 19 00, fax 80 19
08 00, h5367@accor.com, www.dorint.com/koeln-city.
More a small world than a large hotel, this Dorint is a Mecca
of comfort. The rooms are spacious and bright and will
soften the hardest heart, but the jewel in this Dorint’s crown
is the wellness area: saunas, spas, solariums, swimming
pool, massages… they had to drag us screaming from this
place. Q (86 singles N89 - 172, 133 doubles N89 - 190).
ACDFGHKLPRTU
Dorint Sofitel Mondial Am Dom C-2, Kurt-Hack-
enberg-Platz 1, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 206 3 - 0,
fax 2 06 35 27, h1306@accor.com, www.sofitel.com.
You could not dream of a better situated hotel in Cologne.
Standing next to the Museum Ludwig, the Philharmonie, the
Romisch Germanisches Museum and the shadow of the Dom,
this Sofitel is a favourite for those who can never get close
enough to the action. The rooms are a little cramped, but well
equipped. Q (8 singles N95 - 340, 91 doubles N115 - 360,
8 suites N195 - 440). AFGKLPRTU
Euro Garden C-1, Domstr. 10-16, MHauptbahnhof,
tel. 16 49 - 0, fax 16 49 - 333, sekretariat@eurotels.
de, www.eurotels.de. A good standard mid-range choice
just around the corner from the hauptbahnhof, Euro Garden
features a choice of comfortable rooms with wireless inter-
net, modern bathrooms and one or two good views if you
choose your room carefully. The staff are friendly and helpful,
and despite being a bit on the expensive side for what you
get the hotel is a fine place to stay if you want to explore
the centre without having to do too much travelling. Q (17
singles N120 - 245, 68 doubles N120 - 245, 1 suite N245).
ADGHKLPUW
Sco
Cologne In Your Pocket
Enjoy your stay at the
Holiday Inn Köln-Am Stadtwald Dürener Str. 287,
tel. 4 67 60, fax 43 37 65, www.koeln-am-stadtwald-
holiday-inn.de. Located in a leafy area of Cologne, this hotel
offers a peaceful contrast to the busier centre. True to its
name, the hotel lies next to a sprawling forest and adjacent
to an animal farm. Spend a few extra euros and book one of
the rooms that overlook the small lake at the rear. Q (140
NH Nürnberg-City!
singles N108 - 250, 140 doubles N108 - 250, 8 Exucutive
N128 - 270). AGHKLPTU
Jolly A-1, Im MediaPark 8b, MChristophestr./Medi-
aPark, tel. 2 71 50, fax 2 71 59 99, reservation.jhk@
jollyhotels.de, www.jollyhotels.de. The MediaPark is a
conglomerate of business offices, and the Jolly sits on the
edge of it. As one can imagine the majority of guests are Close to the historic railway station and the pedestrian zones of „Breite Gasse”, „Königsstraße” and
businesspeople, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a „Kaiserstraße”, the NH Nürnberg-City offers you a warm welcome. The city’s most lovely museums invite
unique character. The Italian heritage brings elegance to you to a cultural experience. At christmastime, a visit to the famous Christkindlesmarket for Mulled Wine,
the rooms, though not necessarily to the name, and there Lebkuchen and Nuremberg Sausages is a must. The trade fair and the airport are quickly reached as well.
is quite a good view from the higher floors. Q (214 singles
N160 - 320, 214 doubles N185 - 345, 4 suites N260 - 410).
ADFGHKLPRTU Our rooms are generously equipped and offer lots of room to relax. In addition
to a bath/shower and WC, all rooms have satellite TV, a mini bar, hairdryer,
Königshof B-2, Richartzstr. 14-16, MHauptbahnhof, air-conditioning as well as high speed internet access. In the fitness area with
tel. 257 87 71, fax 257 87 62, hotel@hotelkoenigshof.
its sauna, solarium and steam bath, you will find an opportunity to relax and
com, www.hotelkoenigshof.com. Industry standard Ger-
man boiled sweets on reception and cheerful staff keep rejuvenate. Revitalize yourself for the day at our generous and healthy break-
watch over a choice of bright, cheerful and slightly feminine fast buffet.
rooms with even more sweets on the pillows. Located close
to the Dom, extras include hotel pickup in a Rolls Royce
for those who can afford it and a bar full of photographs of
famous guests you’ve never heard of. The perfect choice for
retired couples and business ladies on an expense account. The various business services of our hotel are at your
Q (40 singles N79 - 198, 42 doubles N99 - 225, 4 suites demand whenever you require them for a seminar, mee-
N215 - 315). AGLPW
ting or large event. 7 function rooms for up to 290 people,
Lyskirchen C-2, Filzengraben 26-32, MHeumarkt, tel. 2 fully air-conditioned and equipped with the latest in con-
09 77 04, fax 2 09 77 26, nathalie.coulon@eventhotels. ference technology offer ideal conditions. Our business
com, www.hotel-lyskirchen.com. Recently refurbished, service team will assist you in every detail of planning and
this colourful yet elegant hotel combines a German sense of
hospitality with a cosmopolitan air. Just off a side street from organization.
the Rhine, on Sundays you find a classy flea-market across
the street. The chocolate museum is across the road also,
so prepare to waddle back like a chocolate-stuffed duck. Q
(21 singles N79 - 195, 75 doubles N102 - 279, 9 apartments Experience “nhube”, our new Discover the new multifunctional
N99 - 265). ACDGLPRT
restaurant idea that’s simply area created by Ferran Adrià and NH
Park Consul Clevischer Ring 121-123, tel. 9 64 70/9 made for watching TV, surfing Hoteles, where restaurant services,
64 71 00, reservations.pckoeln@consul-hotels.com, the internet, enjoying culinary leisure and entertainment are com-
www.pckoeln.consul-hotels.com. Located in a mostly delicacies, reading or simply bined.
residential area, this hotel is suited to families and business-
men. The rooms are quite sunny, with big windows overlooking relaxing.
the neighbouring park. The adjoining restaurant provides
international cuisine with a little Koelsch flair. Q (2 singles
N69 - 215, 186 doubles N89 - 240, 8 suites N109 - 255).
ADFGHKLPRT Enjoy the exceptional cuisine Feel the pleasure of reading,
which Ferran Adrià has listening to music, having a
Savoy B-2, Turinerstr. 9, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 162 exclusively prepared for you. meal… in a setting which
30, fax 162 32 00, off ice@hotelsavoy.de, w w w. Varied, simple and exquisite. has been designed to cater
hotelsavoy.de. A truly delightful boutique hotel right in
the city centre, the owners have gone to great lengths to
for all your needs.
provide a quirky and fun atmosphere with African and Asian
themed floors and rooms featuring huge wooden giraffes
in the corridors, bizarre furniture, flat screen televisions
and plenty of luxury. The downstairs toilets have tropical
fish tanks in them, the in-house bar has been fitted out
with leopard skin chairs and the purple restaurant is run
by an Australian chef, meaning there’s always kangaroo NH NÜRNBERG-CITY
on the menu. Really nice staff too. Highly recommended. Bahnhofstraße 17-19 | 90402 Nürnberg
Q (38 singles N140 - 300, 44 doubles N170 - 400, 15 T. 0911 9999-0 | F. 0911 9999-100
suites N345 - 600). ADGKLP
nhnuernbergcity@nh-hotels.com www.nh-hotels.com
18 Where to stay
Sco
The New Yorker Hotel Mülheimer Str. 204, Deutz,
MGrünstr, tel. 4 73 30/4 73 31 00, reservation@
thenewyorker.de, www.thenewyorker.de. Staying here
feels like staying at a rich friend’s place. Adorned with chic
couches, a well sculpted garden, library, fitness room, sauna
and solarium, it’s perfect for those seeking a personal touch.
Q (7 singles N109 - 246, 33 doubles N129 - 268). AD�
FGLPRT
€75-150
AAA BudgetHotel Eupener Str. 161, MTechnolo-
giePark, tel. 221 49 70 20, fax 22 14 85 10 01, hotel@
tpk.de, www.aaa-budgethotel.de. Straightforward and
comfortable for the price, this place will satisfy you if you
need to budget. As well as doubles there are two types of
singles; normal singles and no-room-to-swing-a-cat singles.
Get there with the train, or face an uneventful 15 minute walk
from the tram stop. Q29 rooms (singles N44 - 80, doubles
N63 - 100). AGHLPRT
Alemania C-1, Domstr. 23-25, MDom/Hauptbahnhof,
tel. 912 83 40, fax 912 83 49, www.alemania-hotel.
de. This family-owned and -run hotel is in a slightly ugly area,
but is still very close to the Dom and the Altstadt. The area
surrounding the hotel is severely lacking in good restaurants
though, and you have to cross an awkward train station to get
into the centre. Q (6 singles N59 - 64, 22 doubles N79 - 89,
2 triples N120). AGL
Cologne In Your Pocket
Am Chlodwigplatz C-4, Merowingstr. 33, MChlod-
wigplatz, tel. 9 31 24 40, fax 33 14 84, team@hotel-
am-chlodwigplatz.de, www.hotel-am-chlodwigplatz.
de. A charming hotel with a strong sense of hospitality.
The bar is almost kitschy and at the same time irresist-
ible. The hotel is located within a relaxed walking distance
to the Volksgarten, along parisienne-like streets. While it
may be a little difficult to find it is truly a hidden treasure.
Q (15 singles N55 - 80, 8 doubles N90 - 106, 4 triples
N106 - 124). AL
An der Philharmonie C-2, Große Neugasse 36-38,
MHauptbahnhof, tel. 258 06 79, fax 258 06 67, info@
hotel-allegro-koeln, www.hotel-an-der-philharmonie.de. A
charming family-run boutique hotel close to the river and the
Philharmonie as the name suggests, find free internet in the
lobby and cute wallpapered rooms with wooden furnishings
throughout. The rooms mostly come with a shower only, but
are bubbling with character, and the suite although nothing
too fancy is great value. Q (10 singles N63 - 135, 25 doubles
N79 - 140, 6 suites N89 - 150). AGHLP
Berg C-1, Brandenburgerstr. 6, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
12 11 24, fax 139 00 11, hotel@hotel-berg.com, www.
hotel-berg.com. A small family-run hotel that offered us
the very best German hospitality by refusing to show us
anything when we visited. All we can say is that the location
is pretty good, but the staff haven’t got much time for visi-
tors. Check their appalling website for further information if
you must. Q (8 singles N41 - 135, 11 doubles N49 - 145).
ADHLPW
Caprice C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 7-9, MHeumarkt, tel.
92 05 40, fax 92 05 41 00, reservierung@cityclass.de,
www.cityclass.de. An absolute swine to find being located
in a square rather than on the street marked on the map,
once you’ve found it Caprice is well worth it. Right in the tour-
ist trap area by Heumarkt, being in a secluded area means
it’s peaceful, and the rooms, by no means the epitome of
luxury, are clean albeit unrenovated. All rooms come with a
shower only with the exception of the suite, and extras are
few and far between. Q (12 singles N45 - 249, 41 doubles
N59 - 299). ADGLPW
Coellner Hof B-1, Hansaring 100, MHansaring, tel. 16
66 0, fax 166 166, info@coellnerhof.de, www.coellner-
hof.de. There are many types of rooms here, and they all
have their own character. Some rooms are called “country”
style, which means lots of wood. The service is pretty sharp
which is surprising considering how busy they are. The good
location is most of the attraction here, especially if your trip
is for business. Q (40 singles N65 - 150, 38 doubles N85 -
195, 14 triples N105 - 205). ADGKLRT
Where to stay 19
Constantin D-2, Constantinstr. 78, MKöln Deutz, tel.
8 27 80, fax 81 89 50, hotelconstantin@t-online.de,
www.hotelconstantinkoeln.de. This hotel changed hands
in 2005, and is undergoing renovation and refurbishment. Built
in 1907, the building is protected, and each room is slightly
different, which adds to the appeal. Enjoy the 1970s room
décor and the old-school bar at the front. Q (14 singles
N45 - 85, 20 doubles N60 - 160). AGR
Dorint Novotel Köln City C-3, Bayenstr. 51, MHeu-
markt, tel. 80 14 70, fax 80 14 71 48, h3127@accor.
com, www.novotel.com. Boasting Rhein views, fitness and
wellness area, cocktail bar and a Mediterranean restaurant,
this well situated hotel pleases everyone who stays there
(which seems to be mostly businessmen). The views over
the southern part of the centre are less pretty, but quieter.
In five minutes walk you are in the Altstadt. Reservations
also for 1Bed and 3Bed rooms. Q (220 doubles N49 - 309).
ADFGHKPRT
Good Sleep B-2, Komödienstr. 19-21, MHauptbahn-
hof, tel. 257 22 57, fax 257 22 59, info@goodsleep.
de, www.goodsleep.de. The workers’ canteen of the hotel
world, Good Sleep balances a great location with cheap and
cheerful accommodation and gets the mix just right. The
rooms are clean and minimal, with lino floors, basic beds and
a choice of en suite and excellent shared bathroom facilities.
A superb hotel for the cost-conscious traveller, be sure to
book well in advance. Q (12 singles N35 - 250, 25 doubles
N35 - 250). GP
Haus Berger Uferstr. 73, MSiegstr, tel. 22 19 35 52
40, fax 221 935 52 46, rezeption@hotel-haus-berger.
de, www.hotel-haus-berger.de. Sitting on the shore of
the Rhein, this hotel adjoins and overlooks the Berger camp-
ing ground. Right next door is a preserved nature area that
stretches for miles, and across the road are farming pastures Marienburger Bonotel Bonner Str. 478, MBayanth-
with horses. The hotel itself is a family affair, and friendliness algürtel, tel. 370 20, fax 3 70 21 32, info@bonotel.de,
pervades the spirits of the guests. Q (7 singles N45 - 65, 7 www.bonotel.de. A little out of the way, and slightly hard to
doubles N70 - 100, 1 triple N85 - 115). KLT get to, but worth the distance for the wellness area. Spas,
saunas and solariums are all inclusive, which, coupled with
Ibis Köln City Messe/Arena E-2, Brügelmannstr. 1, the elegantly styled rooms, leaves a guest wondering why
MKöln Messe, tel. 98 93 10, fax 98 93 15 55, www. the hotel is not more expensive. Q (55 singles N65 - 235,
ibishotels.com. An Ibis is an Ibis is an Ibis, and guess what? 34 doubles N74 - 235, 4 suites N145 - 435). ADFG�
This is an Ibis. It has all the features that satisfy, and is per- KLPT
fectly located for trade fairs and sightseeing. Relatively cheap
compared to the haughty neighbouring hotels, however the NH Köln City C-3, Holzmarkt 47, MHeumarkt, tel.
breakfast room may be flooded by tour bus-loads of guests 2 72 28 80, fax 2 72 28 81 00, nhkoeln@nh-hotels.
at times. also reservations for 1bed rooms Q (180 doubles com, w w w.nh-hotels.com. This hotel has a profes-
N65 - 74). AGKLPR sional atmosphere to it, which at times feels a little
impersonal bu t also is non-intrusive. The rooms are
Im Kupferkussel A-2, Probsteigasse 6, MChristoph- tidy, well organised and business-like. Even though it lies
strasse/MediaPark, tel. 2 70 79 60, fax 27 07 96 29, on the Rhein the view isn’t too great, but the location
info@im-kupferkessel.de, www.im-kupferkessel.de. is one of the big selling points. also reser vations for
Located in a quiet part of the centre, this family-run hotel will 1bed rooms Q 205 rooms (204 doubles N75 - 285).
suit anyone looking for a homey atmosphere. The breakfast ADGHKLPRTU
room has a very German charm to it, even including a wooden
spiral staircase leading to the owner’s rooms. Q (10 singles Prodomo Deutz-Mülheimerstr. 184, tel. 96 46 00,
N32 - 80, 3 doubles N69 - 118). AL fax 96 46 02 00, koeln@prodomo-hotel.de, www.
prodomo-hotel.de. A 20-minute ride on the U-bahn from
Kolpinghaus Messehotel D-3, Theodor-Hürth-Str. the city centre this prefabricated budget hotel has seen
2-4, MSüvenstrasse, tel. 88 04 47 10, fax 8 80 447 better days, which probably weren’t all that good then.
19, hallo@kolpingh-messehotel.de, www.kolping-messe- Still, it’s a fairly friendly place, and if your looking for a
hotel.de. Situated in a residential street, this hotel looks and cramped room with cable television and a basic shower
feels like a comfortable block of apartments, no doubt due with breakfast in exchange for not too much money then
to the recent refurbishment. The service is very good, and Prodomo is your place. A bit niffy in places, make sure you
the bar inside the hotel has a Rhenish charm about it. Well have a good sniff inside a room or two before you make
suited to businessmen and families, but too distant for walk- your pick. Q (1 single N35 - 105, 131 doubles N51 - 145).
ing excursions into town. Q (2 singles N69 - 89, 20 doubles AKLPU
N89). AGKLRTU
June - July 2006
20 Where to stay
Residence C-2, Alter Markt 55, MHeumarkt, tel. 920 19
80, fax 92 01 98 99, reservierung@cityclass.de, www.
cityclass.de. Ghastly yellow corridors and a pensive lift await
guests inside this city centre budget hotel. The rooms all come
with a distinct lack of trimmings, tasteless 80s furniture, Pay TV,
showers and little else. Although perfectly adequate and far from
grotty, one word of warning about taking a place in such a good
location is that good locations fill with people who more often
than not drink lots of beer (the hotel is dangerously close to two
Irish pubs) and start singing, usually under your window and more
often than not just as you’re falling asleep. Take earplugs or drink
even more than the neighbours do and you’ll be just fine. Q (11
singles N45 - 314, 45 doubles N59 - 279). AGHLW
Rhein-Hotel St. Martin C-3, Frankenwerft 31-33,
MHeumarkt, tel. 257 79 55, fax 257 78 75, rheinhotel@
netcologne.de, www.koeln-altstadt.de/rheinhotel. A
small budget hotel next to the river, ideal for people wanting
to get the most from the city for the least expense and who
can get through life without a trouser press. The unrenovated
facilities are basic and clean, featuring a choice of humble
rooms, some en suite and some with shared bathroom facili-
ties. One of the best choices in the city for those who plan to
spend most of their time out and about and who just need a
comfy bed and cable television close to the last bar they fall
out of in the middle of the night. Q (23 singles N28 - 90, 19
doubles N44 - 145, 2 apartments N90 - 225). AGL
Weber A-3, Jahnstr. 22, MZülpicherstr, tel. 27 22 99
50, fax 272 29 95 40, rezeption@hotelweber.de, www.
hotelweber.de. German comfort and style at an affordable
price, this place is a favourite for regular guests. There is
a garden at the rear that invites quite reading and coffee-
sipping. Being a stone’s throw from Zülpicherplatz, there is
always something to do at night around this hotel. Q (13
singles N45 - 65, 14 doubles N65 - 95). AGLT
Airport hotels
Mercure Hotel Köln Airport Hauptstr. 369, MPorz
Markt, tel. 55036, fax 5 59 31, h2018@accor-hotels.com,
www.mercure.com. A recently renovated hotel that meets
the needs of many guests seeking repose near the airport,
and is one of the best equipped for it. The river Rhine is directly
behind the hotel, and it is well worth the little extra cash to get
a room with a beautiful view. dial before: 02203 Q (9 singles
N91 - 219, 50 doubles N115 - 219). AGKLPR
Cologne In Your Pocket
Hostels
Jugendherberge Köln-Deutz D-2, Siegestr. 5,
MMesse Deutz, tel. 81 47 11, fax 88 44 25, koeln-
deutz@jugendherberge.de, www.koeln-deutz.jugend-
herberge.de. This modern hostel feels like a school, with
young crowds talking boisterously in the lobby much of the
time. The position is good, and the rooms are clean and
well cared for. There seems to be a lot of large groups
staying there, either for school trips or backpackers.
Q (71 singles N39, 71 doubles N59, 72 triples N93).
AGHLU
Jugendherberge Köln-Riehl An Der Schanz 14,
MBoltonsternstr, tel. 76 70 81, fax 76 15 55, jh-
koeln-riehl-programme@djh-rheinland.de, www.djh-
rheinland.de. Best suited to those travelling in groups,
as a lone traveller may feel isolated and lonely in this
hostel’s college-atmosphere. It’s well situated, if a little
distant which is no problem if you rent a bike as the ride into
town is stunning. Q (114 singles N22 - 34, 114 doubles
N27). AGLU
Station Hostel Backpackers B-2, Marzellenstr.
44-56, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 912 53 01, fax 912
53 03, station@hostel-cologne.de, www.hostel-co-
logne.de. Ikea furniture and lots of plants in the rooms
create a ver y un-h ostel t ype of h ostel h ere. Bet ter
looking that just about any thing in its class, facilities
include iron-frame beds and a choice of basic en suit
showers or excellent shared bathroom facilities. To save
you getting lost in the labyrinth of corridors, a large red
stripe with stencilled signposts has been added along
the walls throughout. Q (3 singles N35, 20 doubles
N28 - 50). A
Camping
Camping Berger Uferstrasse 71, Rodenkirchen,
MSiegstrasse, tel. 221 935 52 40, fax 221 935 52 46,
camping.berger@t-online.de, www.camping-berger-
koeln.de. There is an undeniable community spirit here at
the camping ground, and the location is beautiful. The trails
along the Rhein are perfect for cycling. A rather alarming
measure stick shows the various flood water levels of past
years. Q L
Sco
restaurants 21
American Symbol key
Hard Rock Café A-2, Gürzenichstr. 8, MHeumarkt, tel.
221 272 68 80, www.hardrock.com. If you are familiar with P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
the layout of a Hard Rock Café then you can probably find your E Live music S Take away
way around here in the dark. There is music paraphernalia on
the walls, loud rock playing on the sound system, and burgers. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
The vast majority of patrons are from outside Germany, and G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
it’s interesting to sit and listen to all the different langauges.
Q AEP O Casino M Nearest bus station
R Internet W Wi-Fi connection
Joe Champs A-3, Hohenzollernring 1-3, MRudolphplatz,
tel. 221 257 28 54, www.joe-champs.com. Joe Champs
serves up a hefty slice of Americana here. Typical dishes
are predictably burgers, steaks and pizzas while the décor Beer houses
revolves around American sport memorabilia. The restaurant Bier Esel B-2, Breite Str. 114, tel. 257 60 90. For tradition-
is patronised mostly by international guests; a German accent al Koelsch cuisine the “beer donkey” restaurant/beer-house is
is almost out of place here. Q AEP great, and the ambiance is decidedly old fashioned. Hundreds
of antique pepper-grinders line the walls, and it is hard not to
Asian spend a long time staring at them. In the rear there is a comfort-
able outside area. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AB
Anothai A-3, Hohenstaufenring 15, MBarbarossaplatz,
tel. 221 397 69 70. Thai restaurants are either too noisy or Brauhaus Früh am Dom C-2, Am Hof 12-14, MHeu-
too quiet, and this one is the former. Their crispy baked duck markt, tel. 261 30, www.frueh.de. A vast beer hall and
is probably what attracts the crowd. Anothai also does some restaurant on three floors with seating for 1,500 people,
really good fish dishes, if you can handle the chilli. Q Open gorgeously decorated in an early 20th-century brauhaus
12:00-14:30, 18:00-24:00. Sat 18:00-24:00. AP style with wood panel walls and huge ceramic tiled stoves,
put this on your list of places to go if you go nowhere else.
Kintaro A-2/3, Friesenstr. 16, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 Frequented by a menagerie of classy locals, the menu is a
13 52 55. This modern Japanese restaurant as developed combination of local and international cuisine and the beer
a very good reputation over the years for their outstanding comes courtesy of the local Früh brewery. With additional
sushi and sashimi. This has unfortunately pushed the prices outside seating in the summer and an all-round laid-back
up, but you can be assured of top quality fish. The set-up is atmosphere, this is precisely the kind of thing that makes
modern, and they have a comfortable outside seating area Germany such an attractive place to visit. Brilliant stuff.
in the back. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-23:00, Mon, Fri QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB
18:30-23:00. Closed Sun. ABP
Sumo A-3, Aachener Str. 17-19, MRudolphplatz, tel.
0221 222 15 90, www.sumo-restaurant.de. A perfect
example of fantastic Japanese service and delicate Japanese
food, and more importantly; Japanese beer. Swill some saki
and Asahi here while enjoying the freshest sushi in Cologne.
Located along the very trendy Aachener Strasse, this restau-
rant is the perfect starting point for a great night out. Q Open
Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30-23:00.
Closed Mon. AP
Taku B-2, Domplatz, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 270 39 10,
www.taku.de. A river of fish built into the floor and a catwalk
welcome the rich and famous of Cologne inside one of the
swankiest and frighteningly expensive restaurants in Ger-
many. Specialising in Asian food from Japan, China, Vietnam
and Thailand and featuring a small bar serving Asian cock-
tails, the food and the service are both outstanding, which
goes some way to justifying spending your weekly grocery
bill on something that leaves you feeling like you could eat a
little more at the end of it. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00
- 24:00. A
Viman Luxemburger Str. 185, MWießhausstr, tel. 221
421 06 71. One of the more remote restaurants, but also one
of the best. The service is very good here, and the furnishing
has been set up well to create a genuine Vietnamese atmo-
sphere. If you’re tired of Thai food then try the subtleties of
Vietnamese cuisine - this restaurant is the place to get your
fix. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-24:00. AP
www.inyourpocket.com
Sco
June - July 2006
22 restaurants restaurants 23

Café Storch A-3, Aachenerstr. 17, MRudolphstr, tel.
221 25 17 17. Enjoy the best hot chocolate in town here
with the eclectic regulars, writing, reading and romancing in
this cosy, original café. Monday night finds fledgling authors
reading their work, be it good or bad, amongst mountains
of candle wax, yellow walls and minimal pretentiousness.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €3-8. B
Fromme B-2, Breite Str. 122-126, MAppellhofplatz, tel.
221 257 61 57. If you wake up one morning and decide that
you simply must eat cake immediately, then this is the place
for you. There is an extensive outside seating area, which
Fast food
Oruc Kebab A-3, Kyffhäuser Str./Heinsbergstr.,
MBarbarossaplatz. The best kebab joint in town. A kebab
from Oruc’s will be in your memory forever, but in a good way.
Whether you drop by before a big night on the town, or just
swing past to cap off a massive binge you will find satisfac-
tion here. There is window-sill hippy seating so you can watch
the passers by.
Fine dining
Bon Ami B-2, Komödienstr. 50-52, MAppelhofplatz,
tel. 922 76 52, www.bon-ami.de. A small, award-win-
ning restaurant with a very hands-on owner, exquisite food
and thoughtful inclusions such as things to keep children
amused. Popular with business professionals and families
alike, the small French and Mediterranean menu changes
daily, and there’s a wonderful wine list to boot. Be warned
though that places like these don’t come cheap. If you
can afford €14.50 for a soup then this is the right place
for you. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. AT

© KölnTourismus/ Günther Ventur
Brauhaus Gaffel C-2, Alter Markt 20-22, MHeumarkt,
tel. 257 76 92, www.gaffel-haus.de. A fun beer hall sell-
ing the local Gaffel Kölsch and little else, this well located
boozer is decorated with lots of wooden benches and old
tiled walls, and is a huge hit with the local 40-something set,
seemingly as sick as the rest of us with the current obses-
sion with pretentious cocktails in hideous surroundings.
Why anyone would want to start a world war when there are
bars like this to hang around in is anyone’s guess. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. AB
Brauhaus Reissdorf B-3, Kleiner Griechenmarkt
40, MPoststr., tel. 21 92 54. Five minutes west of
Neumarkt in a quiet, leafy part of the city, this beer hall is
almost swanky. The beer on offer is the wonderful Reiss-
dorf Kölsch, and there’s a large menu of typical German
fare as well as a few surprises such as Russian eggs
and potato pancakes on offer as well. Great for evenings
out with large groups. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 24:00. A
provides the perfect place to soak up the sun while enjoying
coffee and a few cakes (just one piece is not enough). The
café itself has been going since 1893, and it looks like it will
keep on going forever. Q ABP
Holtmann’s Café C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt-
bahnhof, tel. 25 09 99 77, www.holtmanns.com. Vast
and tinkly, the Ludwig Museum’s café is, as one would
expect, brimming with arty types and students. Serving
better coffee that many, they do unfortunately feel the need
to employ someone to bash out rotten tunes on a grand
piano. But all is not lost, as the vast ceiling-to-floor windows
overlook the regular pantomime enacted on top of the roof
of the Philharmonie every time a performance takes place.
Go and have a look for yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. AE
Orlando A-3, Engelbertstr. 9, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
0221 23 75 23, www.cafeorlando.de. One of the few
completely non-smoking cafés in Köln. Enjoy the clean air
as well as the breakfast selection, the variously flavoured
coffees and the elegant design. The service might not be
the quickest in town, but they have an apple and walnut
cake that will rock your world. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00.
BEGP
La Vision B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel. 22 12 00
80. Crowning the glory that is the Hotel Im Wasserturm,
this restaurant is very unique and highly renowned. Earn-
ing itself a Michelin star and a reputation for outstanding
service, La Vision will not fail to impress. There is outside
seating in the warmer nights along the terrace overlooking
Cologne. Spend a relaxing half hour reading the wine list.
Q Open Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:00. Closed Sun,
Mon. ABEP h
French
Bar Tabac A-3, Aachener Str. 21, MRudolphplatz, tel.
221 258 92 19, www.bartabac.de. De-facto French terri-
tory. Once inside, the street sounds drop away and you are
in a world of acid jazz and soufflé. It is actually a very large
place, and offers great French food and yet has somehow
avoided the inherent pomposity most French restaurants
exude here. Q A
Full listings on-line: www.inyourpocket.com
Capricorn I Aries C-4, Alteburgerstr. 34, MChlodwig-
platz, tel. 221 32 31 82. This restaurant has four tables,
scatters rose petals outside every night and serves caviar
and foie gras. Started in 2002, this gourmet kitchen offers
something very special. If you find it booked full then their
brasserie across the road is a very decent substitute, if
not compliment. There is a French style to the menus,
and a comfortable atmosphere which cushions the impact
of the bill. Q Open Wed-Sun 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon,
Tue. AP
La Societe A-3, Kyffhäuserstr. 53, MBarbarossaplatz,
tel. 221 23 24 64. The atmosphere inside this leading
restaurant is quite dark and heavy, but the food by contrast
is delicate and light. Anyone not accustomed to bärlauch
(bear’s or wood garlic) should try the eponymous soup, which
is the best introduction you can have to the taste. The mains
are a little pricey, but well worth it. Some people come here
specially for their fantastic desserts. Q AP

Weissbraeu zu Köln B-3, Am Weidenbach 24, Chinese

MEifelstr., tel. 221 23 18 23, w w w.weissbraeu.
com. The attraction of this brew-house is its Weissbier,
a cloudy white beer that is both refreshing and filling. The
food is solidly German, with slight leaning to the south
- you can’t have Weissbier without Bavarian food. Try
the blood sausage if you dare. You can buy three types
of home brew in 2 litre quantities for €5, providing you
return the jug, other wise it costs €10 more. Q Open
11 - 01-00. AB
Cafés
Café Duddel Zülpicher Wall 8, MDasselstr, tel. 221
42 88 63. A great little café in an out of the way location.
Spend hours here enjoying huge bowls of hot chocolate and
delicious soups, while perhaps reading, writing or playing one
of the board games that they have available for patrons. You
can easily lose a day in this cruisy place. QOpen 10:00 -
02:00. P
Café Heumarkt C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt,
tel. 202 70. Despite being a hotel café this place is
really rather nice. Shades of Ar t Deco and a rocking
horse for overactive infants make the imbibing of fancy
teas and the nibbling of fancy cakes that bit more enjoy-
able. During the summer months, when the Heumarkt
is burstin g wi th foreigners, Café Heumark t offers a
pleasant escape from the ghastly masses, and is wor th
more investigation. Surprisingly recommended. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00. A
Canton C-2, Heumarkt 45, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 23 65.
Golden dragons set into the ceiling and a saucy middle-aged
waitress in tight shorts are reasons enough to swing by this
restaurant, and if it’s decent Chinese food you’re after then
they’ve got a bit of that as well. The menu is fairly extensive
albeit unimaginative, and they also do a good value weekday
lunch for around €10 (11:30 - 15:00). Q Open 11:00 - 15:00,
17:30 - 23:00. A
China Jumbo’s B-2, Perlenpfuhl 6, MNeumarkt,
tel. 258 17 18. Ignore the set menus and enjoy the very
best that China Jumbo’s has to offer, that being a gigantic
eat-all-you-can buffet (12:00 - 15:30 and 18:00 - 21:00)
for just €7.80 during the week and €9.20 on Saturdays
and Sundays. The range is immense, including pork, beef,
chicken, spring rolls, friend rice, noodles, soup and salad,
and it’s good too. Great value. Highly recommended.
QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. A
Peking am Dom B-2, Marzellenstr. 2-8, MHaupt-
bahnhof, tel. 13 76 44. Specialising in Cantonese food,
Peking am Dom, once you’ve managed to find the door,
is reminiscent of something you’d find in China itself, be-
ing neither ostentatious nor grotty. Proof of its class is
witnessed by the scores of Chinese locals who use the
place regularly, eating from a separate menu of authentic
food that is only available to those who can read Chinese.
Entrance in around the corner from the actual address,
through a plain door and up a couple of flights of stairs.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

24 restaurants
L’Escalier B-3, Brüsseler Str. 11, MMoltkestr, tel. 221
205 39 98. This French restaurant exudes an air of exclusivity
from the outside. The menu itself is a mixture of French and
German cuisine, with a leaning towards the delicious. The dé-
cor lacks imagination, but the food does not. The restaurant
is located on a relatively quiet street, and there is a peaceful
atmosphere in the area. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-22:00,
Mon, Sat 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun. AP
German
Bacchus A-3, Rathenauplatz 17, MZülpicherplatz,
tel. 221 21 79 86, www.weinstubebacchus.de. A little
outside garden area at the front is one of the best places
to drink wine in the town, with flowers and vines surrounding
you. If you are looking for a nice, peaceful night out then this
is the place for you. The food is traditional German cuisine,
but their main focus is on wine. Q ABP
Bei Oma Kleinmanns A-3, Zülpicher Str. 9, MZülpi-
cherplatz, tel. 221 23 23 46. For a good, filling, traditional
German meal there is no better place to go than Granny
Kleinmann. The climate is a little smoky and loud but the
food is great and cheap. If you like wood then you will love
the interior, which to our eyes can be a bit dark. QOpen
17:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. A
Bootshaus Alte Liebe Am Leinpfad, MSchönhauser Str,
tel. 221 39 23 61, www.bootshaus-alte-liebe.de. There
could be no more perfect place to enjoy a Sunday afternoon,
listening to the Rhein waters flow past the former boatshouse
while basking in the sun and eating traditional Rhenish food. On
the downside, it is a little pricey and the service can be slow.
Under the Rodenkirchener bridge. Q AB
Cologne In Your Pocket
Der Löwenbräu C-2, Frankenwer f t 21, MHeu-
markt, tel. 257 45 40, w w w.der-lowenbrau.de.
Featuring the kind of staff you usually find in a five-star
hotel, Der Löwenbräu, smack bang in the middle of tour-
ist hell, is a delight. Choose to eat among wooden walls
covered in paintings and old photographs of Cologne
or outside by the river if the weather’s warm enough.
The menu features the legendar y Nuremberg sausage
alongside the usual sauerkrau t, pork knuckle, lamb
and fish. Forgetting the fact that they pander passing
tour groups with a menu of drear y Italian dishes, this
place knocks the spots off its competitors. Q Open
10:00 - 03:00. AB
Feynsinn A-3, Rathenaplatz 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
22 12 40 92 10. Situated next to a sedate park, this
café is a bustling hive of eating, drinking and socialising.
There is a friendly atmosphere inside, and the music is
laid back. It is not such a big place, and it can get a little
crowded in there, but the food is fresh and filling. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
Closed Wed, Thu. A
Haus Zims C-2, Heumarkt 77, MHeumarkt, tel.
258 12 61. A very German affair indeed, Haus Zims is an
unpretentious restaurant that attracts a good number of
locals as well as tourists, thanks in part to its relaxed and
cheerful staff and not least because of the heart attack-
inducing food on offer. The reasonably priced menu includes
the standard roll call of schnitzel, sausages and sauerkraut,
the fearsome Farmer’s Pan (pork chop, bacon and grilled
sausage) and a few exotic surprises including ostrich and a
highly commendable wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. B
Greek
Aphrodite Aachener Str. 698, Junkersdorf, MAlter
Militärring, tel. 221 49 33 31. If you like Greek food, then
a trip out to Aphrodite is a must. Because of its remote loca-
tion it has relied solely on the quality of its food to attract
customers, and it has paid off. The aroma that greets you is
a delicate mixture of olive oil and spices, and it is beyond any
normal human’s power to resist eating enough to require a
loosening of the belt. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 17:30-23:00.
Closed Mon. ABP
Indian
Bombay Palace B-3, Am Weidenbach 21, MPoststr,
tel. 221 32 43 43. You can smell the powerful aromas that
waft from the kitchen hundreds of metres away, and they’re
guaranteed to make you hungry. A great place for vegetar-
ians, and even a committed carnivore would love the Bombay
Potatoes. One of the best Indian restaurants in Cologne. Q
Open 12:00-14:30, 18:00-23:00. AP
Jaipur B-2, Marzellenstr. 50-56, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
13 73 22, www.jaipur-indisches.com. Deliciously silly
décor including a stuffed tiger and lots of photographs of
snake charmers in Cologne’s highly regarded Indian restau-
rant. Specialising in north Indian cuisine, this award-winning
establishment offers a good menu of food including several
vegetarian dishes, and like all the best restaurants closes in
the middle of the day. Pricey but most certainly worth it. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. A
International
Engelbät A-3, Engelbertstr. 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
221 24 69 14. A restaurant specialising in crepes, and doing
a very good job of it. With a mouth-watering menu in a friendly
atmosphere, Engelbät is a relaxing place to re-energise after
touring the varied clothing stores in this student area. Large
portions, good value and seriously lecker (good). QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. €4-8. AB
www.inyourpocket.com
restaurants 25
Sco
Graugans D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer Freiheit,
tel. 82 81 17 28. Closed during research, the Hyatt’s
gourmet restaurant is a German-Asian fusion affair with great
views of the city, pink orchids, splashes of modern art and
an extensive wine list featuring the very best of Californian,
German, French and Italian wines, many the produce of small
vineyards. Award-winning and very posh, watch this space
for more details. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Hornsleth Im Apropos A-2, Mittelstr. 12, MNeumarkt,
tel. 221 27 25 19 20. This very hip restaurant is in the middle
of a shop, in a sense. There is a glass roof over the brasserie
which makes it very sunny inside. The food is a little pricey but
the service is professional and refined. A good place to recover
from the strain of visiting the shops along Mittelstrasse. Q
Open 10:00-23:00, Mon 10:00-20:00. Closed Sun. ABP
Italian
Etrusca A-3, Zülpicher Str. 27, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
221 240 39 00, www.ristorante-etrusca.de. An elegant
restaurant with a very Tuscan style, Etrusca offers an intimate
atmosphere. There is a very extensive wine selection, and a
rolling menu which inspires a creativity from the kitchen. The
perfect place to consolidate a new relationship, or to reignite
a stale one. Q Open 11:30-15:00, 17:30-23:30. AP
Luciano B-2, Marzellenstr. 68-70, MAppelhofplatz, tel.
13 54 53. A fine restaurant is the perfect balance of food,
décor and service, and if it wasn’t for a particularly childish
member of staff who clearly learnt his craft from the sobbing
schoolboy school of Italian football, Luciano would rate as one
of the finest restaurants in the city. What exactly is it with
the Italians? Maybe you’ll have better luck. Q Open 12:00
- 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. A
Neideck A-2, Friesenwall 33, MFriesenplatz, tel.
221 272 43 06, www.restaurant-neideck.de. Serving
delicate north Italian food, Neideck is a favourite amongst
the locals. The seating is a little cramped but still retains
an elegance that suits the quality of the food. They have
a gnocchi dish served with lamb strips and olives that will
have you coming back all week. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. ABP
June - July 2006
2 restaurants restaurants 2

Sansone B-2, Komödienstr. 60, MAppelhofplatz, tel. El Gaucho A-3, Barbarossaplatz 4a, MBarbarossaplatz, tel.
12 44 44, www.ristorante-sansone.de. In business since 221 24 67 97. Located under the Ambassador Hotel, El Gaucho Decoding the menu
1969, everything from the knarled door handle to the im- is your typical Argentinean restaurant with battered pots and pans For more go to:
maculate waiters is top notch here. Serving a wide selection on the walls. The food is strong, and you can expect lots and lots of Fleisch Meat
of Italian dishes with a nouvelle cuisine slant, the food is good meat. Fill that hole in your stomach with their 480gram steak. Q www.inyourpocket.com Auflauf casserole
Braten roast
but a little expensive. Booking a table at the weekend is highly Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Mon, Sat. A Bratwurst sausage
recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB Brust breast
Maggiano’s C-2, Am Hof 20-26, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 925 Grill Room B-2, Komödienstr. 54, MAppelhofplatz, tel. Eintopf stew
Vesuvio A-3, Aachener Str. 9, MRudolphplatz, tel. 221 34 34. Mediocre food that can’t make up its mind whether its Italian 139 16 20, www.steakhouse-the-grillroom.com. A small, Eisbein knuckle of pork
25 14 97. This old-fashioned Italian restaurant will satisfy or Mexican, Aztec murals, reasonable prices for the location and the classy steak restaurant with lots of Tiffany lamps, allegedly Ente duck
all your desires if you have a hankering for pasta. A perfect occasional grumpy waitress blend together to create a disappointing serving the best Argentinean beef in the city cooked on an Gans goose
Hackbraten meatloaf
evening here starts with the bruschetta and a bottle of Chianti restaurant that knows neither how to make decent burritos nor how open charcoal grill. Frequented by business professionals and Haxe knuckle
and ends with their pistachio ice cream. Q Open 12:00- to treat the people who pay their wages. Avoid unless you really do the Cologne A-list, it’s pricey but worth it. Also a great selec- Hühnchen chicken
15:00, 18:30-23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 18:00-23:30. AP need a Mexican pizza. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AB tion of South American and other wines to compliment the Kalb calf
meat. Vegetarians look elsewhere. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, Kaninchen young rabbit
Kohlrouladen cabbage-stuffed beef
Showbiz Spanish 18:00 - 22:30. A
Küken puisson
Lamm lamb
Filmdose & Theater in der Filmdose A-3, Zülpicher Delix C-3, Friesenstr. 72-74, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 126 02
Str. 39, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 23 96 43. For entertain- 00. Delix is both a restaurant and wine store, which works well for Thai Leberkäse
Pute
meatloaf
turkey
ing shows in both German and English, Filmdose is worth check- the diner because there is a huge selection of Spanish wines on the Mai Thai C-2, Heumarkt 71, MHeumarkt, tel. 25 63 Reh deer
ing out. There are comedy acts, musical acts, drag shows and menu. There is a subtle Spanish flair to the menu as well, with lots of 14. Taking full advantage of its prime tourist location, Mai Rind beef
theatre productions in the later evenings on some nights. The fish. The seating is a little unimaginative, but it is good for large groups. Thai is a strange mix of ostentatious décor and staff who Rippchen loin ribs
portions are large and very tasty, and are complimented by the Q Open 12:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-23:00. AP were seemingly trained in the Soviet Union. If you’ve always Rouladen thinly sliced beef
friendly atmosphere that sweats from the pores of this place. fancied eating things with names like Ghai Phad Pag and Tod Schenkel, Schlegel, Keule leg
Schnitzel veal, pork cutlet
Q Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. AE
Steak Mun Gung and staring at kitsch paintings of traditional Thai
villages whilst waitresses stare at you like you just passed
Schwein
Steak
pork
steak
Chicago Steakhouse C-2, Am Hof 20, tel. 257 92 06. wind, then look no further. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. A
South American A good old-fashioned German family restaurant with comfy
Weißwurst
Wild
veal sausage
venison
Banderas C-2, Am Hof 26, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 221 Wildschwein wild boar
257 92 06. This Mexican restaurant is part of the franchise that
leather seating, a refreshing lack of panache, and superb
steaks. Featuring televisions scattered everywhere showing a Turkish
Fisch Fish
owns the adjacent Chicago steakhouse, and the set-up is pretty multitude of sporting events, vegetarians will be happy to hear Bosporus B-1, Weidengasse 36, MHansaring, tel. 221 Forelle trout
similar, but with fantastic Mexican style food. Their Argentinean there’s a good salad bar and some fine garlic bread. Those 12 52 65, www.bosporus.de. With the reputation as being Hering herring
steaks are worth trying, as are their enchiladas. Enjoy the messy with children in tow will also be more than delighted to know the best Turkish restaurant in Cologne, Bosporus has won all Kabeljau codfish
eating and be sure to grab some extra serviettes on the way to that free crayons and paper are whisked to your table without the available awards. One bite of their lamb-steak with walnut Lachs salmon
the table, you may need them. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AP you even having to ask. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AT sauce and you will be converted too. The restaurant has been Scholle plaice
going for 25 years and in that time has developed a strong
following, so it is wise to book. Q ABP Beilagen Side dishes

Beer or Culture?
Auberginen aubergines
Blumenkohl, Karfiol cauliflower
Vegetarian Bohnen
Bratkartoffeln
beans
roast potatoes
Babylon A-3, Hohenstaufenring 14, MZülpicherplatz, Brokkoli broccoli
tel. 221 233 93 33. This vegetarian restaurant is in a central Brötchen bread roll
location and offers a wide variety of dishes. The ambience is Erbsen peas
Gurke cucumber
a little tired though, and the décor is nothing much - almost Karotten, Möhren carrots
like a caféteria. There is no smoking during the day, so head Kartoffeln, Erdäpfel potatoes
here for clean lungs and guilt-free food. Q AG Knödel dumplings
Knoblauch garlic
Govindam A-3, Roonstr. 3, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 Nudeln pasta
492 89 16, www.govindam.net. Usually a vegetarian has Paprika pepper
about two choices on an average menu. At Govindam your Pfannkuchen pancakes
Petersilie parsley
problem is that there is too much to choose from, and it’s Pfeffer pepper
all fantastic. While the seating and styling are very plain and Pilze mushrooms
functional, the food more than makes up for it. The mango Pommes Frites french fries, potato chips
lassi is divine. Q Open 12:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A Salz salt
Sauerkraut sauerkraut
Senf mustard
Spargel asparagus
Kölsch food Spätzle egg noodles
Speck bacon
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and beer. There are a few dishes that are customary,
Keep it where it belongs. such as Haemmche, boiled pig knuckle, Rievkochen,
Desserts
Apfelstrudel
Desserts
apple pie
potato fritters with apple sauce and Kölsch black pud- Berliner/ Krapfen/ Kreppel doughnut
 
 ding, which is nicknamed Kölsch caviar. Halve Hahn Bethmännchen almond paste cookies
Bienenstich cake
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with the elastic waist.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

28 nightliFe nightliFe 29

Harry’s New York Bar C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt, tel.

Bars
Alter Watersaal C-2, Johannistr. 11, MHauptbahnhof,
tel. 912 88 50, www.wartesaal.de. Located underneath
the Hauptbahnhof inside the old first- and second-class wait-
ing rooms, this is a deliciously ornate and classy affair with
lots of wood panelling, original Art Deco lamps and free copies
of the German edition of the FT. Half posh restaurant, half
relaxed bar, there’s something quite magical about this place,
despite it being somewhat snobby and the fact that a glass
of mineral water will set you back €4. A good spot for a drink
before nipping next door to their equally enjoyable club. Check
the website for more details. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00.
Bastard Café & Bar A-2, Friesenwall 29, MFriesen-
platz, tel. 221 420 77 77, www.bastard-bar.de. This
little gem sprawls out into the courtyard of a quiet building.
There is a nice terrace upstairs; the perfect place to taste
their Long Island Ice Tea which is pretty subtle. They also
serve light food, so you can keep up your vitamin intake.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
Biermuseum C-2, Buttermarkt 39, MHeumarkt, tel.
257 78 02. Featuring dancing barmaids and over 50 beers,
if all museums had this attitude it would certainly be worth
looking into becoming an academic. Extremely loud and
28 06 12 10. Inviting rows of backlit bottles, 60s-style yellow www.inyourpocket.com
seating, cute red lamps and a grand piano help bring a modicum
of sophistication to the Hotel Intercontinental’s in-house cocktail
joint. Harry’s to those in the know is a global cocktail phenom-
BELFAST
enon with history, and if you can afford to drink here and are lucky
enough to miss the cabaret, this is quite a splendid little spot.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00.
Hemingway A-2, Friesenstr. 43, MFriesenplatz, tel.
221 257 11 21, www.hemingway-cologne.de. This
large and stylish tropical cocktail bar is a good place to sip
White Russians and contemplate the days past. There is a
large area downstairs, and they play some good music on
occasion. There are many cocktail bars lining the street,
so if the vibe is a little slothful here you can walk next door
in search of greener pastures. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sat
20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
Ice Bar B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MAppelhofplatz, tel.
13 07 10. The idea is a simple one. Take a workaday hotel
bar and give it a gimmick, this one coming in the guise of a
frozen bar top. Fun and frivolous, the drink of the day is vodka,
of which they stock somewhere in the region of 120 different
types from all over the world. And judging by the pricelist you’d
do well to drink lots of it as the bill can hurt like hell. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00.

Dreams can come true

packed most evenings, find two floors of tipsy over-30s
Germans misbehaving impeccably in something not unlike a
British pub. Be sure to put this one on your Cologne pub-crawl
list. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00.
Blauer Engel A-2, Friesenwall 82, MFriesenplatz, tel.
221 280 64 33, www.blauer-engel-koeln.de. There is a
mildly intimidating atmosphere in the front of this place, with
all eyes trained on you as you enter, but the people are quite
friendly inside. If you want to put theperfect finishing touch
on a rampageous night out then hit the “Pleasure & Pain”
tattoo parlour next door and pick out a design. QOpen
20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00.
Café Waschsalon A-2, Ehrenstr. 77, MRudolphplatz,
tel. 221 13 33 78. This has one of the more bizarre motifs
in town, and has found good business in it. It was once a
laundromat, and most of the washing machines have been
used as decoration. It is one of the trendiest places to be
found hanging out, and can get busy on weekends. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
Pacific Bar A-3, Kyffhaeuserstr. 17, MBarbarossaplatz,
tel. 221 923 11 60, www.pacificbar.de. The Pacific Bar
suits a refined palate, but it would take serious conviction
to attempt to sample each of their 140 varieties of whiskey.
If whiskey is not your thing then you should be able to find
something on the cocktail menu that satisfies; they serve
265 different types. The staff are all clothed in spiffy vests.
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
Papa Joe’s Biersalon C-2, Alter Markt 50-52, MHeu-
markt, tel. 258 21 32, www.papajoes.de. Reminiscent of
a 19th-century London gin house, Papa Joe’s is one of the
loveliest and liveliest bars in the city. Despite its propensity to
hang anything old and funny on the walls, this is far from being
a clinical tourist trap. Hard to differentiate between the staff
and the clients, there’s always plenty of ridiculous accordion
music to keep the beer flowing, or, if you’re lucky, you may walk
into one of their live ballroom evenings or a bawdy recital of
erotic poetry. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
Rick’s Café Casablanca B-2, Glockengasse 64-66,
MNeumarkt, tel. 280 66 16. The strenuous efforts made to
associate the decoration inside what is essentially a hotel bar with
the Bogart classic failed miserably, but Casablanca is a bit of a
hit all the same. Regular nightly entertainment includes Country
& Western, piano recitals and just plain dancing. DJs invade on
Saturday nights, and if it’s not working for you here there are plenty
of other good spots in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Sir Peter Ustinov’s Bar International C-2, Domkloster
2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 202 43 75, www.ustinovs.de.
Literally in the shadow of the Dom and tucked inside the Dom
Hotel in which Mr Ustinov used to stay, SPUBI is a small cocktail
Football mural, East Belfast.
Ubierschänke C-4, Ubierring 25, MUbierring. Always full
with partying people, flashy lights, pointless furnishings and
traces of Koelsch charm. The clientele are mostly thirty and
over, and this bar has an old style attraction to it.
Underground Vogelsanger Str. 200, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel.
221 54 35 87, www.underground-cologne.de. Notoriously
hard to please, Britpop fans can find satisfaction here. Apart
from the pub itself there is a nice beer garden, so if the music
gets too loud for you there is always a place to retreat. The
musical themes change each night, and there are often par-
ties of various motifs each week.

Cubana Bar A-3, Luxemburger Str. 1, MBarbarossa-
platz. Serving up cocktails and Che Guevara pictures, the
Cubana Bar is for those who either love one or the other. It is
easily spotted from the U-Bahn station, and has become a
meeting place for nights on the town. In summer there are out-
side seats; a perfect place to cook up the next revolution.
Hammond Bar B-4, Metzer Str. 25, MChlodwigplatz,
tel. 0178 635 57 61, www.hammondbar.de. This bar
brings a little life to an otherwise quiet neighbourhood. This
means that you will mostly find locals too lazy to travel to a
more central part of town. The bar still has its charm though,
and Thursday night is sixties soul night which of course con-
tains the funky pulsating of the Hammond organ. QOpen
20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Cologne phone code:
(+49)(0) 221
Piano Bar Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt,
tel. 202 78 69. A fabulously over the top, retro-looking hotel
bar with lots of mirrors, dapper barmen and a white grand
piano, this is a great place to tip back expensive cocktails
with your tongue firmly in your cheek. Once again the bar bill
can be justified by filling your pockets with bar nibbles before
you leave. Live music every night except Sundays from 22:30.
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E
Rheinterrassen D-1, Rheinparkweg 1, MKölnMesse
Osthallen, tel. 880 95 31. You can usually judge how preten-
tious a bar is by the number of energy drinks on the menu.
Rheinterrassen has nine. Decorated with lots of modernist
orange furniture and a DJ station straight out of Barbarella,
this place takes superficiality to new heights. Drinks include
the usual array of stupid-sounding cocktails, they have
gourmet cigars, and even the view of the Dom across the
river (the real reason to come here) is ruined by the great
blue blob of the Musical Dom. Bursting with nouveau riche,
a Russian gangster would think twice about drinking here.
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
bar with big prices (made more bearable if you work your way
along the bar, eating the free snacks as you go), serving sours
and non-alcoholic cocktails to a mix of locals and hotel guests
to the dulcet tones of yet another mediocre pianist. Almost
club-like, the summer months see the whole place empty into
the square outside, creating one of the finest places to sit and
get smashed in the entire city. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
Stiefel A-3, Zülpicher Str. 18, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
221 21 16 36. A bar that always elicits a different emotion
in each person who visits it. Graffiti on the walls, loud rock
music and a young atmosphere; Stiefel sits in a class of its
own. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and this
place is definitely a trashy treasure that many find residing
in a perfect niche. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -
03:00. Closed Sun.
Theater im Bauturm A-2/3, Aachener Str. 24, MRu-
dolphplatz, tel. 221 52 42 42. This small and intimate
theatre has mainly German-language productions, so the best
reason for us foreigners to go here is the very cool bar/café at
the front which is constantly packed with hipsters.
Pubs
Corkonian C-2, Alter Markt 51, MHeumarkt, tel. 221
257 69 31, www.the-corkonian-irish-pub.sportkneipe.
de. An Irish pub that offers a genuine atmosphere. Come here
to find Irish beer, Irish patrons and soccer on a big Irish TV. A
little pricey, but probably still not as expensive as in Ireland.
A good place to meet, as it is in a central location and has
a name that is hard to miss. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00.
Flanagan’s C-2, Alter Markt 36-42, MHeumarkt, tel.
221 257 06 74, www.flanagans-cologne.de. Down the
stairs and into Flanagan’s. While you can find many similarities
between the many Irish bars in town, this one has its own
character. With relatively cheap beer, an abundance of ladies
and gents and loud music it has won many hearts. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
www.inyourpocket.com

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

30 nightliFe
Jamesons Friesenstr. 30-40, MFriesenplatz/912 33 23,
www.jamesonpubs.com. There is one thing an Irish bar can’t
get enough of; wood. If this place ever caught fire they would
have to siphon off the Rhein to put it out. There is a lot of room
inside, and it can get very loud but that is half the point of an
Irish bar. They have an unrivalled bottle collection on the walls.
Karaoke on Sundays at 21:00 – enjoy or avoid. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
Schmelztiegel A-4, Luxemburger Str. 34, MBarbarossa-
platz, tel. 221 24 01 11, www.schmelztiegel.de. There is a
nice London pub atmosphere here, although the disco lights are
ironically anachronistic. The façade facing the street is striking, and
adds to the mood of the pub. The only thing it has going against it is
that sometimes the volume of the music far outweighs the quality
of it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.
Shamrock C-4, Alteburger Str. 40, MUbierring, tel.
932 84 64, www.shamrockirishpubs.de. This tiny Irish bar
has become a favourite amongst a handful of local German
folk who enjoy the cosy ambience. There is a lonely-looking
electronic darts board in there that makes you want to play
purely out of sympathy. The music is a subjective matter, and
will either make you reminisce or remonstrate.
Beer gardens
Biergarten Volksgarten B-4, Volksgartenstr. 27, MEifel-
platz, tel. 221 38 26 26. As far as beer gardens go this is one
of the more scenic, sitting in the small lake (or big pond?) in the
middle of the Volksgarten park. The park itself is not too well lit
after dark, so late-leavers can often be found stumbling into trees
and wandering into the lake. A perfect place to sit back and enjoy
the setting sun while enjoying a few quiet beers.
Live music
Blue Note A-2, Brüsseler Str. 96, MWestbahnhof,
tel. 01798 49 04 49. There is generally a lot to enjoy
at the Blue Note. They often have live bands playing, as
well as resident and guest dj’s. There is a bar on both
Cologne In Your Pocket
floors, ser ving a wide variety of obscure beers. The
low ceilings make it feel a bit claustrophobic when full.
Q Open 22:30 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Sun.
Live Music Hall Lichtstr. 30, Ehrenfeld, tel. 221
95 42 99 10, www.livemusichall.de. You can watch
many good live acts at this concert hall, and there is lot
of space to move around to, so there is no need to fear
getting constantly elbowed by jostling groovers. Check out
the schedule of bands at their website. They book gigs
from a range of different styles, so you can generally find
something of interest.
Palladium Schanzenstr. 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.
palladium-koeln.de. This performance venue is bit far out,
but they regularly have big bands out there, and lots of space
to jump around.
Prime Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 40, MDasselstr,
tel. 221 92 44 60, www.primeclub.de. This is a great
place to catch some good gigs. Friday nights is indie
night, and there is no better place to indulge your Britpop
desires. There is quite a large dance area, and the beer
is quite cheap (to compete with the Rose Club across the
street), although sometimes you can feel old amongst
the teeny-boppers.
Jazz clubs
Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal C-2, Buttermarkt 37, MHeu-
markt, tel. 257 79 31, www.papajoes.de. Find the
barmaid behind the dangling business cards and foreign
money, locate a place to sit on one of the strange benches
facing away from the stage, and away you go. A living legend,
Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal has live jazz every night from traditional
to slightly more modern jazz, and is packed regularly with a
mix of aficionados from ageing jazzheads to the occasional
passing punk. Free to get in, the beer is a bit expensive, but
the trip is always worth the effort. There’s nothing quite like
it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00.
Sco
Stadtgarten A-2, Venloer Str. 40, MHans Böckler
Platz, tel. 221 952 99 40. This location is a Mecca
for jazz enthusiasts, and in any one week you can find at
least one big name playing here. Located in the Stadt-
garten park, there’s a restaurant, pub and beer garden
as well, of which the latter is very popular in the summer
months, and is one of the best places to have a drink in
the evenings. Check the website to see which gigs are
coming through.
Clubs
Diamonds A-2, Hohenzollernring 90, MFriesenplatz,
tel. 221 160 86 20, www.club-diamonds.de. If you
want to go back in time and visit the late eighties, then this
is the place for you. Huge disco balls, exotic couches and
wildly coloured lighting; it looks like a movie scene set in a
coke den. The crowd seems to be divided into the young
and the young at heart. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun-Thu.
Gebäude 9 E-1, Mülheimer Str. 127-129, MKöln
Messe, tel. 221 81 46 37, www.gebaeude9.de. From the
outside “Building 9” looks like a place where you are going to
get mugged, but this old warehouse is actually a great club
to visit. There are often good bands playing there, and the
beer is quite cheap. There are also theatre productions and
film exhibitions on occasion, so it is always worth checking
out the schedule.
Haifisch Club C-4, Im Ferklum 24-26, MChlodwigplatz,
tel. 0176 22 89 30 90. When you get sick of drinking bland
drinks, pay a visit to the ‘Shark’ cocktail bar. Set in a cellar, the
atmosphere is laid back and friendly. The star of the show is
of course the cocktails so be sure to make an effort to order
something interesting.
Kauri Club C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,
tel. 257 79 22. This small club is good for R&B and soul
music, and is a favourite amongst Cologne’s African com-
munity. The drinks are quite expensive, like many clubs in the
Altstadt. The crowd is mostly older than the average club,
attracted by the mellow atmosphere.
Lalic A-3, Rathenauplatz 6, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221
24 26 75. If most of your clothes are black and you own a lot
of leather products then the chances are that this is your kind
of place. A goth club that looks a little ratty from the outside,
this is just how they like it. The club itself looks a little out of
place amongst the sedate residential buildings and the park
next door. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00, Sun
20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Nachtflug A-2, Hohenzollernring 89-93, MFriesenplatz,
tel. 510 22 29, www.nachtflug.com. Even though this
night club has many things going for it, sometimes it feels a
little sedate. It has a very spacious dance area and comfy
couches, but whether it is worth queuing up outside for up to
an hour is debatable. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.
Pier 11 C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,
tel. 01762 432 92 40. Ignore the small bar as you enter
and dive down the stairs into a dark cavern of delight.
Decorated with models of sailing ships and complete with
a pole for exotic dancing, a buxom barmaid churns out
booze to the sounds of 70s and 80s music. A big hit with
the locals, and a great place to dance yourself silly, safely
hidden away from the tourists bumbling about in the tiny
alleyways upstairs. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Thu, Sun.
nightliFe 31
Adult entertainment
Dollhouse A-2, Hohenzollernring 92, MFriesen-
platz, tel. 139 33 83, www.dollhouse-cologne.de.
This erotic club has that “edge of town” feeling, at the
end of Hohenzollernring street. Inside it’s quite civilised,
and the main dance platform almost has a theatre-like
atmosphere. Friday night is ladies’ night, but they gener-
ally cater to all tastes. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 05:00.
Pascha Hornstrasse 2, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel. 221 17
90 61 00, www.pascha.de. This claims to the biggest
bordello in Europe, part of a chain that incredibly offers a
money-back guarantee. There are seven storeys, each
containing up to fifteen rooms. Word has it that Eminem
made a bee-line for Pascha when he was in town. Q
Open 24hrs.
Purple Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 60, MEifelwall.
There is actually quite a good setup here, even though it
sometimes is not as busy as other clubs. Their downfall is
being on the wrong side of the railway line, which seems to
form a mental barrier for some clubbers. This is too bad,
because the Purple Club has a good atmosphere, a little
more relaxed and less preppy. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Rose Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 37, MEifelwall, tel.
240 82 66. On Wednesday nights the Rose Club gives you
what you need: funk. If you want to throw your back out
dancing all night then this is the place to be. There are also
indie and alternative nights, so just drop by and see what
is happening. The crowd can seem a little young at times.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Stardust A-2, Maastrichter Str. 6-8, MFriesenplatz, tel. 280
68 03, www.stardust-koeln.de. Stardust has a fun atmosphere
inside and is not the sleaze pit it looks to be from the outside.
The professional air about the club attracts many German sport
stars to unwind here, Oliver Khan and Mark Heller to name a few.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. Admission €10.
Tsunami Club C-4, Im Ferkulum 9, MChlodwigplatz, tel.
801 63 34. This unhappily-named club is relatively small and there
can sometimes be a line outside which should not be mistaken
as a reflection of the popularity of the place, but rather the limited
capacity. Inside, it’s often hot and cramped, with pricey drinks.
Gay
Gloria A-2, Apostelnstr. 11, MNeumarkt, tel. 660 63
13, www.gloria-theater.com. Gloria has many faces, and
each visit is different. The themes of each night are constantly
changing, and they often have some big acts passing through
their doors. Some nights require tickets and others are free,
depending on the schedule. Gloria attracts a mixed crowd,
and is very popular in the gay and lesbian scene.
Timp C-3, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 14 09,
www.timp.de. Timp is a hotel bar full of beguiling and decid-
edly odd characters, and is a recommended location for visiting
gays, as gays are what you’ll find in droves here. The real treat
though comes when the legendary transvestite cabaret begins
at around 01:00. It’s cheap and colourful and fun, and has been
going since many of the wrinkly old types propping up the bar
were still at school. They’ve got a hotel too, so the possibilities
here are endless. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00.
June - July 2006
32 What to see
The real Eau de Cologne Sco
Places of interest
4711-Haus B-2, Glockengasse 4711, MNeumarkt,
tel. 925 04 50, www.4711.com. On 8 October 1792
the young merchant Wilhelm Mülhens married his sweet-
heart. As a wedding present a Carthusian monk gave
the couple a simple gift in the form of a recipe for the
production of a miracle water, the perfume we now know
as Eau de Cologne. Mülhens built a factory for producing
the perfume, which is believed to have magical healing
qualities and that was originally swallowed as well as
applied externally, on Cologne’s Glockengasse. In 1796
during the French occupation of Cologne the city com-
mander General Daurier ordered that all addresses in
the city were to be changed. Mülhens’ factory got the
number 4711, and thanks to some clever early market-
ing his perfume became a world leader. The building now
houses a 4711 shop and museum. High up on the wall
overlooking the opera is an elaborate clock with models
of French soldiers and horses that plays the Marseillaise
on the hour from 09:00 to 19:00. For more extensive
information about Cologne’s most famous product, have
a look at the 4711 website. Q Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Bayenturm C-4, Rheinauhalbinsel, MUbierring. This
is an old part of the town’s fortifications located along the
Rhein with a beautiful view of the river. There is a lot of real
estate development along this street, and the old fort now
looks very much out of place. While you get a sense of how
the tower used to look, the refurbishment of it seems to
have taken the soul out of it. Today it is used to house the
Feminist Museum.
Opera B-2, Offenbachplatz, MNeumarkt, tel. 22 12 84
00. Wilhelm Riphahn’s 1957 lump of a modernist building is
highly acclaimed both inside and out. The 1,300-seat audi-
torium puts on a good programme of classical and modern
opera as well as dance from all over the world.
Cologne In Your Pocket
Tourist information
Cologne Tourist Board B-2, Unter Fettenhennen
19, tel. 304 00, fax 304 10, info@koelntourismus.de,
www.koelntourismus.de. Opposite the main doors of
the cathedral, the excellent tourist office hands out maps,
advice and books hotel rooms, tours and city walks. Also
at Cologne-Bonn Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Philharmonie C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahn-
hof, tel. 20 40 80, www.koelnmusik.de. On September 14,
1986 the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne gave a performance
of Mahler’s 8th Symphony at the grand opening of this im-
pressive hall. Twenty years on and the Philharmonie, which is
home to both the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne and the WDR
Symphony Orchestra Cologne continues to give almost daily
performances of everything from baroque to chamber to jazz
to serialism. Designed to mimic an ancient amphitheatre the
Philharmonie also houses a huge organ, but what you won’t
find in their official marketing material is the fabulous blunder
made during construction. The Philharmonie’s roof is built into
the surrounding area and accordingly the public can walk on it.
The trouble is, when people walk on it their footsteps can be
heard inside the auditorium. Thus during every performance
a small group of Philharmonie employees have to hang around
the roof area stopping people from crossing it. The city, who
own the building, originally planned to cover the roof with a
soundproofing material but have been reluctant to part with
their money, and so the rather surreal-looking spectacle of
men chasing quite-often oblivious people around what looks
to be an ordinary courtyard continues.
No access to the Philharmony roof Sco
What to see 33
Rathaus C-2, Rathausplatz, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 10.
Germany’s oldest Rathaus (town hall) was first mentioned some
time between 1135 and 1152. The current building dates from
the 14th century, with additions made over the centuries. The
original 61m Gothic tower dates from 1414 and the impressive
loggia, the main entrance, was added in 1573. WWII saw most
of the building destroyed with only the loggia surviving. Rebuilding
began at the end of the war, and slowly the Rathaus was restored
to its former glory, a task that took until 1995 to complete. The
oldest preserved part of the building is the Hansesaal, which
dates from around 1330. The Hansesaal gets its name from
a gathering in the room in 1367 by members of the Hanseatic
League who decided to wage war against King Waldemar of
Denmark. The tracery and decorative figures on the north and
south face of the wooden vaulted hall are one of the impressive
achievements of the secular late Gothic period. Guided tours are
available and should be arranged in advance.
Westdeutscher Rundfunk B-2, Appellhofplatz 1, MAp-
pellhofplatz, tel. 22 00. Originally a hotel, the headquarters of
Germany’s most popular television station is well worth a men-
tion. The former lobby still includes an extremely rare paternoster
(look it up) and much of the interior features original art including
some wonderful stained glass and Cubist art. There are two
working music and drama theatres too, both of which are open
to the public. Guided tours in English are also available.
Museums
Chocolate Museum (Imhoff-Stollwerck Museum)
C-3, Rheinauhafen 1a, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 19 31 88 80,
www.schokoladenmuseum.de. Although Willy Wonka’s
fat unfortunate friend Augustus Gloop was from nearby Düs-
seldorf, chocolate lovers will find their favourite chocolate
museum (or mmmuseum as they call it) here in Cologne’s
Rheinhafen. Learn about 300 years of chocolate culture and
production, drink from the chocolate fountain and watch the
oompaloompas go about their business. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
City Museum (Stadtmuseum) B-2, Zeughausstr.
1-3, MAppellhofplatz, tel. 22 12 57 89. You can satisfy
all your questions about Cologne here, and find some inter-
esting titbits of local lore. There are relics from the Middle
Ages, photographs from WWII and an exhibit on the damage
the city sustained during the war. There is not too much
post-war information, however. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue
10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4.70.
EL-DE Haus Appellhofplatz 23-25, tel. 22 12 63 31, www.
nsdok.de. The city’s former Gestapo HQ has been transformed
into a museum tracing the roots and progress of National So-
cialism in Cologne from the foundation of the National Socialist
German Workers Party in 1921 through to the liberation of the
city by US troops on March 6, 1945. The former cells in the
basement now form the main part of the exhibition, with the rest
of the building given over to archives and research. One of the
best-preserved prisons of its kind in the country, a visit here is
a necessary part of any itinerary to the city. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Farina Haus (Fragrance Museum) C-2, Obenm-
arspforten 21, MHeumarkt, tel. 399 89 94, www.
farina1709.com. This is the birthplace of Eau de Cologne
(literally: Cologne water), an important part of the history of
the city. The museum focuses on the history of the Farina
family, and is quite interesting. It’s very popular and can get
a little crowded but the audio guide keeps you entertained
with nuggets of information. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00.
June - July 2006
34 What to see
Sco
Museum Ludwig C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt-
bahnhof, tel. 22 12 61 65, www.museum-ludwig.de.
Devoted to modern art from the beginning of the 20th century
onwards, the vast and airy Ludwig Museum is most famous for
its Pop Art collection, the largest outside the United States.
Other treats include early 20th-century Russian and Soviet
art and a few pieces by Picasso. The museum also puts of
temporary exhibitions from the great and the good including
at the time of writing a superb Dali retrospective. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Pratorium C-2, Kleine Budengasse, MHeumarkt, tel.
223 94. This half hidden museum often gets overlookedand
that’s a shame, because it houses some of the more striking
and best-preserved remnants of Cologne’s Roman period.
Tour the underground archaeological excavations that have
exposed the structures of the Roman governor’s offices, a
fascinating trip back through time. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon.
Rautenstrauch-Jöst Museum C-4, Ubierring 45, MU-
bierring, tel. 221 336 94 13, www.rjm.museenkoeln.de.
Sedate and sparse, this museum is for enthusiasts of Asiatic
religion and traditional art and crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Römisch-Germanisches Museum C-2, Roncalliplatz
4, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 22 12 23 04. Originally part of
the Roman and Germanic department of the Wallraf-Richartz
Museum, this intriguing museum was built in 1974 on the walls
of a Roman villa unearthed during WWII. Dedicated to life in
the area under Roman occupation, among the usual pots,
weapons, statues and other archaeological detritus of note
is the extraordinary Dionysus mosaic and some wonderful ex-
amples of ancient, crude Roman glassware. One of Germany’s
most popular museums, the curators have been considerate
enough to label everything in English and French as well as
German. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Cologne In Your Pocket
Schnütgen Museum B-3, Caecilien Str. 29, MNeumarkt,
tel. 22 12 23 10, www.museenkoeln.de. This museum is
housed inside an old church, and is a treasure-house of sculp-
tures, artefacts and relics from medieval times. The collection
was donated to the city of Cologne in 1906 by Domherr Alexan-
der Schnütgen, and 2006 is their century anniversary. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Sport & Olympia Museum Rheinauhafen 1, MHeu-
markt, tel. 33 60 90, www.sportmuseum.info. This museum
is a sports fan’s dream: signed balls, bats, boots and boats; this
place is wall to wall sports memorabilia. There is a large section
on football, and there are sometimes talks given by famous
sporting stars, so if you are lucky you can get your picture taken
with Steffi Graf or Oliver Khan. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5/2.50.
Wallraf-Richartz Museum C-2, Martinstr. 39, MHeu-
markt, tel. 211 19, www.museenkoeln/wrm. Three floors
of great art from the 13th century through to the Impression-
ists, including works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Manet and Munch.
As well as showcasing the medieval paintings of local artists
the museum traces the history of panel painting in the city from
1300 to 1550. The well designed building dates from 2001 and
is situated in the area where the painters and artists of Cologne
congregated during the Middle Ages. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Churches
Dom (Cathedral) C-2, Am Dom, MDom/Hauptbahnhof.
The people of Cologne take great pride in the Dom, and there
is no doubt that it forms a part of their psyche. Work on the
great Gothic cathedral first started in 1248, and it was not
fully completed until 1880. The relics of the Three Kings, or
Magi, are on display in the cathedral, as are the cathedral’s
art and treasure collection. It’s possible to climb the lofty
spires of the Cathedral (€4/2), one of which stands at 157
meters in height. There are guided tours in English twice daily
(once Sunday) at 10:30 and 14:30. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30.
Gross St Martin Kirche C-2, An Gross St Martin,
MHeumarkt. When looking at the skyline of Cologne you
can’t help but notice the four spires of this church, yet it
remains one of the least visited. The massive Romanesque
church was consecrated in 1172, and was partially destroyed
in WWII, but reconstructed in 1963. The interior is very sparse
and plain, and the bare walls look ominous.
St Aposteln A-2/3, Apostelnkloster 10, MNeumarkt.
Consecrated in honour of the Apostles, this church was badly
damaged in WWII. It has obviously since been refurbished, and
today offers a peaceful sanctuary. There is a huge modern
pipe organ at the back, that must really have some volume
at full blast. Another feature of the church is the suspended
sculpture that hangs down over the altar area.
St. Gereon B-2, Gereonshof 4, MChristophstr./Me-
diaPark. The interior of this large Romanesque church is a
little intimidating, but the stonework is really quite impres-
sive, and the church has some original 11th century mosaics
in the crypt that survived the Second World War. Concerts
of classical pieces are held each week, worh visiting for the
good acoustics.
www.inyourpocket.com
St. Pantaleon B-3, Am Pantaleonsberg 6, MPoststr.
Originally built as an abbey in 957 in commemoration of the
Greek martyr Pantaleon, this church is very impressive in
many different ways. Hidden amongst apartment blocks, it
is easy to pass by without noticing it. The church was dam-
aged in WWII, and has been refurbished since. The interior
is very modest, and the stark walls coupled with the ever-
present smell of incense gives it an atmosphere of solemn
contemplation.
St. Severin C-4, Severinskirchplatz, MChlodwigplatz.
Built on an old Roman graveyard, Saint Severin’s is the oldest
church in Cologne. In around 400AD there existed a small
church on the site, and in the 10th century work begain on
what is today St Severins. There are excavations underneath
the church, and it is sometimes possible to go on guided tours
of the Romanesque crypts that remain in good condition
below the structure.
Statues
Reiterdenkmal C-2, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt. Gustav
Blaeser’s 1876 statue built to honour King Friedrich Wilhelm
III enraged the court circles of the time as a mounted statue
was deemed inappropriate and simply not kingly enough.
Still, unveiled it was and there it stayed until it was blown to
pieces during WWII. The current beast is a copy, created by
Raimund Kittl using fragments of the original.
Parks & Gardens
Flora & Botanical Gardens Amsterdamer Str. 34,
MZoo/Flora, tel. 76 43 35. Serene, stately, well-designed
and well cared for, this is one of the best botanical gardens
in the region. There are separate areas for varying species
of plant and tree, and each area is a microcosm of flora. En-
trance to the gardens is free, though there is a small entrance
fee for the greenhouses (€2-4).
What to see 35
Lindenthaler Tierpark Lindenthal, MDürenerstr.,
www.lindenthaler-tierpark.de. This is a little animal park
built in the grounds of the Lindenthaler park. The animals are
mostly goats and deer, but the kids can feed them and it is a
nice quiet area to relax in. There is no entrance fee, and no
staff really either. Just you and the goats.
Rheinpark D-1,. This park has one of the best views
in Cologne, and has lots of space for lazing on the grass.
Lying on the Deutz side of the Rhein, it is a great place for
children, and there is a mini-train making slow trips around
the park each fifteen minutes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 19:00.
Rhine Cable Car (Kölner Seilbahn) D-1, Rheiler Str.
180, MZoo/Flors, tel. 221 547 33 33. One of the best
views of Cologne has to be from the cable car that crosses
the Rhein from RheinPark to Riehl. If you like planning your day,
you can start off by wandering through the Rheinpark, catch
the cable car across the river, spend a lazy day at the zoo and
finish it off with watching the sunset at the botanical gardens.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Return tickets €5.50/3.
Skulpturenpark Koeln Riehlerstr., MZoo/Flora, tel.
860 77 31. Next to the zoo and the botanical gardens lies a
tranquil park that is devoted to different sculptures by artists
from all over the world. There are some that are mysterious,
some that are quite beautiful and some that are downright
annoying. Entrance is free, but the park itself is not over-
whelmingly large. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00.
Stadtgarten Venloer Str. 40, MBahnhof West. The
Stadtgarten is well known for the jazz concerts that are
regularly held here, but the park itself is a nice place to relax.
It is just inside the ring that is formed by the railway. Just
over the tracks there is another ring of parkland that forms
a semi-circle around the inner city, and it’s not uncommon to
see families of wild rabbits frolicking in the grass.
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June - July 2006
36 What to see daytrips 37

River cruises
KD River Cruises C-2, Frankenwerft 35, MHeumarkt,
tel. 208 83 18, www.k-d.com. Ferrying people up and down
the Rhine for 180 years, and with a client list that includes
the current Pope, KD offer a fantastic way of getting to know
the region by water. Short and long trips are available as well
as private hire for groups and parties.
Around town
Rodenkirchen Riviera Rodenkirchen. With a beautiful
view of the Rhein this stretch of bank in Rodenkirchen is a
casual and unpretentious place. A little outside of the city
centre, Rodenkirchen lies along the bank of the Rhein towards
Bonn. Rodenkirchen means “Rower’s Churches” and was so
named for the churches that the rowers frequented. Enjoy a
refreshment in one of the beer gardens that line the area.
Schloss Augustusburg Schlossstr. 6, Brühl, MBrühl,
tel. 223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de. This well-re-
stored 18th century Rococo castle is about ten minutes by
train from Cologne, and can provide a decent day’s worth of
things to see and do. As well as tours of the interior of the
castle, there are beautiful Baroque-era garden grounds to
wander through, and there is a hunting lodge about a kilo-
metre away along a serene walk through the forest. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Sco
As if Cologne didn’t have enough to offer, there are myriad
possibilities for easy daytrips into the surrounding river
landscape, forest or neighbouring cities and towns.
Schloss Brühl
About twenty kilometres outside Cologne sits Schloss Brühl.
Built in 1725, this Rococo and Baroque mansion was given
a World Heritage listing by UNESCO in 1984, and is today a
magnificently preserved part of the area’s history. Concerts
are regularly given in the evenings on the garden grounds in
the warmer months. One kilometre southeast of the Schloss
is Falkenlust, the old hunting lodge, which forms part of the
estate. The lodge itself is open to visitors between 09 and
12, and 13:30 and 16 Tues-Fri, and from 10-17 on weekends.
The Schloss itself is open from Tue-Fri 09-17 and Sat, Sun
and Holidays 10-18.
Schloss Augustusburg, Schlossstrasse 6, (M) Bruehl, tel.
223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de.
Bergisch Gladbach
Northeast of Cologne is the small village of Bergisch
Gladbach. Set at the base of rolling hills and farmland, there
are many walking trails and bicycle paths that wind through
forests, and from the top of the walking track at Siefen one
has a fantastic view over Cologne. In the town there is a
cosy atmosphere, and many of the older buildings are well
restored and maintained, the most notable of which is the
old Rathaus next to the town square. Every Sunday there is
a market where you can still buy home-grown vegetables
and jam. If the place in itself isn’t already pretty enough,
Bergisch Gladbach spawned one of Germany’s most famous
consulates and international offices remain there today. The
city is about a third the size of Cologne in terms of population.
Bonn University is one of the most famous in Germany, and
the town itself has an old charm to it that is mixed with a
youthful enthusiasm. Ludwig van Beethoven was originally
from Bonn, and his birthplace is now a museum (Bonngasse
20, admission €4). The city centre has many unique stores,
and provides an interesting day of shopping. There is a
market in the town square on Sundays.
The train from Cologne to Bonn costs €7, although there is
also a slower tram that makes the journey in about an hour
which saves you one whole euro. One of the most attractive
ways to visit Bonn, however, is to go by bicycle (see p.?? for
bike rental). There are cycle tracks that follow the Rhein all
the way to the outskirts of Bonn, and because the track
is next to the river the terrain is mostly flat. The journey is
approximately 30 kilometres and takes anywhere between
2 hours to a day, assuming you make all the necessary pit-
stops at the beer gardens and cafes along the way.
Friedenswald
Due south of Cologne is the stately Friedenswald. This forest is a
protected area that incorporates the Forestry Botanical Gardens
near Rodenkirchen, which contains over 3,000 different types of
plant life from all over the world. The area provides the perfect
spot for picnics and cycling. There are both wide open fields and
dense tree growth, so if you feel the need to get back to nature
then the Friedenswald will satisfy that itch. To cycle there from
central Cologne takes about 25 minutes. It is possible to start
from the Rhein and continue through the forest into the Aachener
Weiher Guertel, which rings the innenstadt.

Volksgarten A/B-4, Volksgartenstr., MEifelplatz.

supermodels, Heidi Klum. Take the S11 S-Bahn to get there
from central Cologne, departing every twenty minutes on Aachen
A beautiful park filled with parents, children and couples weekdays, every forty minutes of Sundays; journey time Another pleasant day trip is the city of Aachen, only 45
enjoying the sun. Read a book, play frisbee or sleep off the twenty minutes. minutes by train west of Cologne. Aachen stands as one
excesses of the previous night’s debauchery in this serene of Germany’s most overlooked towns; the reality is that
setting. There is a small lake in the centre which is home to
many hungry ducks and geese. Bonn Aachen has many attractions to offer, the main one being the
fantastic and ancient Dom cathedral which is architecturally
The city of Bonn is just a twenty minute train ride from interesting, but also as the burial place of Charlemagne.
Zoo Riehler Str. 173, MZoo/Flora, tel. 778 50, www. Cologne, and there is much to see and do there. After the Aachen has a big university population, and a thriving
zoo-koeln.de. Hang out with the monkeys. With a huge Second World War, Bonn became the temporary capital of nightlife. A return train ticket to Aachen from Cologne will
variety of animals in spacious enclosures the zoo offers a West Germany until Berlin took over again, though many cost about €25.
peaceful day out. A highlight is the elephant exhibit, which now
welcomes the birth of a new baby. The zoo is right next door
to the Botanical Gardens and an U-Bahn station. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Admission €12/6.

Walking & Bike tours

Kölner Fahrradverleih, tel. 0171 629 87 96, bike@
koelnerfahrradverleih.de, www.koelnerfahrradverleih.
de. Great fun three-hour guided bicycle tours of the city that
start at 13:00 for groups of less that six (choose your own
time if there are more) that take in the highlights of the city
from the Dom to a quick jaunt through some green open
spaces. Bicycle rental without a guide is also possible. For
more information on prices and schedules see their excel-
lent website.

Sightseeing tours
Cologne Coach Service Breslauer Platz, tel. 979 25
70, www.ccs-busreisen.de. English and German language
city tours by bus, starting from the tourist information office
opposite the Cathedral doors. Daily departures at 10:00,
12:30, 15:00, Sat also at 17:30. The tour includes a visit to
the Stadtmuseum. Buy tickets from the driver. Q Tickets
€15/4. Sco Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

38 Getting around
Airport
Köln/Bonn Flughafen (airport) is 17km south of town and
is serviced by the S13 S-Bahn train, which departs from
Köln Hauptbahnhof every twenty minutes, taking about 20
minutes and costing €2. Alternatively, hop on the slower bus
170 from the rear of the station. A taxi to the airport costs
around €25 and takes anywhere from 15 to 35 minutes,
depending on traffic, making it better to catch the train. The
airport is well-organised and efficient. Check-in times at the
airport depend on the carrier, but in general it is good practice
to arrive at least an hour before your plane leaves. Note that
food at the airport is very expensive at almost double the
normal going rate, with perhaps only the Burger King outlet
charging normal prices. Budget travellers who don’t want to
spend more on food than on their flight ticket are advised
to stock up on food and drinks at a city supermarket. The
airport has a small display section filled with curious spy
technology - lovers of gadgets should enjoy this strange
little showcase.
Airport, tel. 022 03 40 40 01, information@koeln-bonn-
airport.de, www.koeln-bonn-airport.de. Note the funky
logo design throughout the airport and its website. Guided
tours of the airport are available for €5/3 on weekdays at
10.00, 11.45, 13.30 and 15.15 (bring ID).
Buses
International buses and coaches depart from the rear of the
Hauptbahnhof train station. There you will find the Eurolines
office which serves international cities such as Paris, London
and Amsterdam, plus offices of the domestic carriers.
Cologne In Your Pocket
Intercity bus transport is a cheap way of getting around Germany
and abroad. Departure times are not as frequent as trains
however, and the journey may take much longer. Major operators
in Germany include Berlin Linien Bus (www.berlinlinienbus.de),
which has a dense national network and some international
destinations, and Eurolines (Deutsche Touring, www.deutsche-
touring.com), part of the Eurolines international bus network.
Eurolines Breslauer Platz, tel. 13 52 52, koeln@tour-
ing.de, www.eurolines.de. International and long-distance
buses.
Car rental
Even though Cologne itself is a nightmare for foreign drivers,
with all the one-way streets, trams, bicycles and pedestrians,
there are many good road trips outside the city. There are
many rental car companies operating from the airport, as
well in as the city.
Avis Hauptbahnhof, Reisezentrum 2, tel. 221 913 00
63, www.avis.de.
Budget Köln/Bonn Airport, tel. 220 340 23 50, www.
budget.de.
Europcar Hauptbahnhof, tel. 139 27 48, www.europ-
car.de.
Hertz Bismarckstr. 19-21, tel. 51 50 84, www.hertz.
de.
Public transport
Cologne’s public transport system is clean and efficient.
There are buses, trams, and U-Bahn (metro) and S-Bahn
(commuter) trains. It is possible to get day tickets that cover
Sco
all the options in the centre, and the 5-person ticket is a good
deal. Tickets can be bought from machines on the platforms
or in tram cars (coins only).
Taxis
Taxis are everywhere in Cologne, and hailing one should
not be a problem. It costs €1 if you hail a cab, and there’s a
€2 starting fee with €1.25 charged per kilometre. There are
certain areas that have taxis in rank, but mostly they are just
cruising around. If you hail a cab and intend on using a credit
card you should ask them if they can take it first.
Lilli-Taxi, tel. 38 38 55.
Taxi Kur, tel. 220 395 95 70. Group taxis.
Taxi-Köln, tel. 966 16 32, www.taxi-claren-ulhaas.
de.
Trains
DB (Deutsche Bahn, German railways) uses a number of
train types on long-distance routes. The supersexy, delux
highspeed ICE trains (InterCity Express; ‘eeh-tsay-ay’) rip
through the countryside at up to 300km/hr on purpose-built
tracks. Every seat has a headphone plug for eight music
stations, and you may get a TV screen too. Table seats have
220V plugs for laptops, and some carriages have amplifiers
to enable clear mobile phone conversations. EC (EuroCity)
and IC (InterCity) trains are less swank, but still very good,
connecting international and German cities respectively.
Seat reservations on InterRegion Express and InterCity
trains are optional and cost €3; they are free if you buy your
ticket from a vending machine or book it online.
All kinds of tickets can be purchased at all train stations.
All major railway stations have counters with semi-English
speaking staff. Although the station queues are efficiently
organised, you may be in for a wait when it’s busy, and
it’s good to know that tickets can also be purchased from
machines placed in the halls that also have instructions in
English; pay with cash or credit card.
The DB’s German and European online train timetable at
www.bahn.de is so good that it’s often easier to use for
planning trips within neighbouring countries than the relevant
Getting around 39
Sco
national websites. It can handle complicated international
connections and lists prices for trips within Germany.
Smart travellers book train tickets online via DB’s
excellent website www.bahn.de. Good reductions of up to
50% are available for a limited amount of return tickets
bought online, especially if you choose a ticket that is valid
for a particular departure. You can pay by credit card and
print out your ticket at home – that plus your credit card is all
you need to take along. The cardholder must be among the
travellers though – else, you must opt for having a normal
ticket mailed to you, which is free but takes a few days. This
is also the only way to book international tickets online.
Hauptbahnhof. The main train station is Köln Hauptbahn-
hof, which is a busy transportation hub for regional, national
and interational trains. There are good connections to all
major German cities. The U-Bahn metro station is underneath
the Hauptbahnhof. The train station itself is a mini shopping
centre, and contains bars, restaurants, post office (open
06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small super-
market. The station itself is in the centre of town, and lies in
the shadow of the Dom. The tourist infomation office is at the
front of the station under the windows facing the Dom.
Travel Agents
STA Travel Zülpicher Str. 178, tel. 221 42 12 54.
Student-orientated travel agency.
Thomas Cook Köln/Bonn Airport, Terminal 2, tel.
220 39 54 90.
V. Beust & Partner Am Hof 30, tel. 221 205 05 10,
www.von-beust-reisen.de.
Cycling
Most German cities are well-equipped for cycling, with plenty
of safe bike paths, and patient traffic that is used to sharing
the asphalt with bi-wheel transport. In summer, perhaps the
bet way to enjoy yourself is to get a picnic together, rent a
bike and head out into the countryside along well-marked
bike paths to enjoy the good times while they last. The tourist
information office will have further details on possible routes
and destinations, cycle maps and bike rental addresses.
June - July 2006
40 Mail & phones
Express mail
DHL , tel. 0180 53 45 22 55, www.dhl.de. Owned
by Deutsche Post, DHL operates through the post office
branches.
EMS Escherstr. 177, tel. 221 177 90.
Federal Express Dieselstr. 6, tel. 0800 123 08 00,
www.fedex.com.
TNT Josef Lindenweg 18, tel. 220 39 33 00.
Internet cafés
Future Point Richmodstr. 13, tel. 221 206 72 06, info@
futurepoint.de. €1.5 per hour.
Internet Jugendcafe Helmholtzplatz 11, tel. 221 546
34 61, www.ijc.de. €1 per hour.
Weidengasse Internet Weidengasse 31, tel. 221 130
10 77. €1 per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Mobile phones
Several companies offer nation-wide GSM coverage in
Germany. Travellers with a mobile phone can choose to
roam using one of the networks, but be aware of relatively
high charges for phoning, and even accepting a local or
international call. If you’re planning to be in Germany
for a while, consider buying a pre-paid SIM card for one
of the networks, so that you have a local number with
which you call for local rates and don’t pay for incoming
calls. The amount on the card can be topped up easily by
purchasing credit at any kiosk, tobacconist, bookshop or
phone card machine. Make sure that your mobile phone
is not blocked for using other SIM cards. All German
mobile phone companies offer SIM card packages, with
small differences in rates. Count on paying about €10 for
the SIM card number, with any extra cash going to phone
credit. There’s no need to bring ID. The best places for
buying SIM cards are the generic phone shops, which will
offer all cards and can advise on which is best for your
calling habits.
The Mediamarkt shop carries phone accessories for all
brands of mobile phones, and provides products for all the
German mobile service providers.
Post
Deutsche Post (www.deutschepost.de) offers quick and
efficient mail services, and also happens to own DHL if you
want to send something larger than a letter. Mailing a postcard
within Germany costs €0.45, €0.65 to Europe and €1 to
other countries. A letter under 20 grams costs €0.55 to mail
within Germany, €0.70 within Europe and €1.70 further afield.
Colourful stamps are for sale at the post office, from stamp
machines (that have instructions in a dozen languages) or
from tobacconists. Note that the euro-denominated stamps
are only valid for sending mail from Germany.
Post office Ludwig bookstore, Hauptbahnhof. The main
post office is located across the river at Kaltenbornweg 1
- but this small office inside the Hauptbahnhof is much more
convenient. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
Phones
Phone numbers in Germany are mental, with subscriber
numbers ranging from three to eight digits – so you’re never
really sure if you have the complete number. Companies will
often have a main number consisting of a set of digits, and
add on extra digits for fax numbers, etc.
Cologne In Your Pocket
shopping 41
To call abroad from Germany, dial 00 (the international
access code) followed by the relevant country code, city code Books
and subscriber’s number. To phone Germany from abroad or Ludwig C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. 126 01 07, www.lesen-
using roaming on your mobile phone, dial 0049 (Germany’s mit-ludwig.de. This handy little bookstore has quite a lot
code) followed by the city code (dropping the first zero) and of English literature, both modern and classic. Also home
the subscriber’s number. to a post office.
Mayersche Bookstore B-2, Hohestr. 68-82, tel. 920 10
90. This large book store chain has a wide selection. The English
literature section is quite extensive, as is the French section.
Department stores
Galeria Kaufhof B-2, Hohestr. 41-53. A huge depart-
ment store in the centre of town. You can find everything
here; clothes, shoes, food, wine, electrical items and more.
QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Neumarkt Galerie B-2, Neumarkt 2. This is a modest
shopping centre with a few stores and a nice café/restaurant.
It lacks the variety to be too satisfying though. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Peek & Cloppenberg B-2, Schildergasse. Quite an
expensive fashion store, with a surprisingly limited range yet
it is one of the biggest in Cologne. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Electronics
Mediamarkt B-2, Hohestr. 121. This huge music and
technology store will satisfy every desire you have if it involves
electricity: mobile phones, CDs, DVDs, computers, hairdryers,
batteries etc. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion
Esprit B-2, Hohestr. 160-168. All is Esprit at this relatively
large store. Keep up to date with fashion and relieve your Madamski A-3, Engelbertstr. 23, tel. 310 9480. A small
wallet of the burden of holding your money. store that offers a special attraction for those who seek to
avoid the mass produced labels. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat
H&M B-2, Hohestr. 113 & 152. A variety of clothes and 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
accessories for men, women and children, and often pieces of
clothing that should never have left the design sketchpad. Süssstoff A-3, Engelbertstr. 12. Sparse, kitschy and
colourful. A little on the expensive side, but unique and
Himbeertörtchen A-3, Engelbertstr. 43, tel. 998 20 interesting in way of compensation. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
37, www.himbeertoertchen.de. Cool accessories, styl- Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
ish clothes and friendly service. With a delicate selection of
designers, Himbeertörtchen (named after a small raspberry Tausend Fliegende Fische A-3, Roonstr. 16. An eclec-
Sco cake) holds much to admire. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Mon tic array of styles and colours, ‘1000 flying fish’ has something
14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. for everybody, be it kitsch or chic. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
City codes
Velangel und Else A-3, Engelbertstr. 51, tel. 37 14
The phone codes for the World Cup host and other cities. 73, www.velangel.de. Colourful, elegant and co-ordinated,
The longer the code, the more piddly the town. they sell their own designs as well as those of young local
Berlin 030 designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat
Cologne 0221 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Dresden 0351
Munich 089 Zara B-2, Hohestr. 128-132. This Spanish label offers
Dortmund 0231 very stylish quality clothes and accessories for him and
Frankfurt 069 her.
Gelsenkirchen 0209
Hamburg
Hanover
040
0511
House & Home
Kaiserslautern 0631 Habitat B-2, Neumarkt 12, MNeumarkt, tel. 920
Leipzig 0341 15 00. Budget designer gadgets and miscellaneous
Nürnberg 0911 household indulgencies from the internationally famous
Stuttgart 0711 chain. Q Op en 10:00 - 20:00, Sa t 10:00 - 18:00.
Sco Closed Sun.
June - July 2006
42 shopping
Shoes
Birkenstock & Berkemann B-2, Breite Str. 60-80, tel.
25 25 29. It is wall-to-wall comfortable and strangely stylish
shoes here. A nice bright store, with chatty service.
Schuhhaus Lachmayr B-2, Breite Str. 106, tel. 257 61
16. The smell of leather shoes for him and her welcomes you
when you enter. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Speciality shops
Douglas Perfume B-2, Schildergasse 1-9, tel. 257 73 81.
A wonderland of smell, perfect for that “I’m So Sorry” present.
Haus der 1000 Pfeifen A-3, Martinsgasse 16-20, tel.
258 22 01. A specialist tobacconist. If you ever wanted to
know what a €1000 pipe looked like, your wish will be granted
here. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Litharion B-2, Auf dem Berlich 24, tel. 258 01 37. This
jewellery store sparkles at you when you walk by. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Traub & Sohn B-2, Breite Str. 6-26. A very large jewellery
store that has some antiques as well as more modern styles.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Sports
Karstadt Sport B-2, Neumarkt 2, MNeumarkt, tel.
203 90. Everything from designer running shorts to tents.
Cologne In Your Pocket
Shopping practicalities
German retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with
shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just
a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On
Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a
few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll
see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it
may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special
relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change.
Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much
to the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to
the system of electronic debit card payments that was in
place in Germany and other mainland European countries
much earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than
credit card as it always requires PIN identicication rather
than a signature, and is free of the 3% commission for the
shopkeepers (eventually paid by you, dear shopper).
One of the best selectionx in town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30,
Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Supermarkets
Aldi B-2, Richmodstr. 31. Cheap supermarket with prod-
ucts still in the boxes. If you need to feed an army you can do
it affordably here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Kaisers A-3, Hohenstaufenring 29-37. One of the main
supermarket chains within Germany. Fresh produce, a large
selection of beer and wine and spiffy red outfits. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Banks
American Express Burgmauer 14.
Kreissparkasse Koeln Neumarkt 18-24.
Norisbank Apostelnstr. 13.
PSD Bank Laurenzplatz 2.
Office supplies
Bürobedarf Hänsel Marsilstein 15-19, tel. 20 64 60.
K.S.Schnitzler Luxemburger Str. 193, tel. 41 35 46.
Real estate
ATIS Müller International Overstolzenstr. 2a, tel.
934 63 30.
K.H. Wiegand Immobilien Von-Werth-Str. 18, tel.
16 03 70.
Reuter Immobilien Hohenzollernring 12, tel. 257
01 01.
Local consulates
Consulate General of Italy Universitätstr. 81, tel. 40
08 70, http://www.consolato-italia-colonia.de/.
Municipality
Fritz Schramma is currently the mayor of Cologne, and
as been since September of 2000. He is part of the CDU
party, which is a little to the right of the political centre.
Cologne currently has 1,022,627 inhabitants and borders
stretching 130km.
Town Hall Laurenzplatz 1/3, tel. 22 10, www.stadt-
koeln.de.
Currency exchange
Reisebank Hauptbahnhof, tel. 20 03 20 04, www.
reisebank.de. The most convenient place for converting
cash currency, with offices all over Cologne. Also at the airport
(open 07:00-19:00). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dentists
For emergencies call tel. 01805 98 67 00 (24hrs).
Zentrum fuer klinische Zahnmedizin Hansaring 55,
tel. 474 79 00.
Hairdressers
Haarstudio 2000 Schildergasse 2-4, tel. 258 01 27.
Studio Peter Steimel Apostelnkloster 17, tel. 257
03 09.
Toni & Guy Hohenzollernring 49, tel. 257 34 13.
Health Clinics & Hospitals
Klinik am Ring Hohenstaufenring 28, tel. 92 42 41 00,
www.klinik-am-ring.de.
Krankenhaus der Augustinerinnen Jakobstrasse 27-
31, tel. 330 80, www.koeln-kh-augustinerinnen.de.
Pharmacies
Am Opernhaus Apotheke Breite Str. 29, tel. 258
01 60.
Apotheke am Neumarkt Neumarkt 2, tel. 272 73
40.
direCtory 43
Embassies
Although some German cities have consulates of certain
countries, most only have a diplomatic representation in
Berlin. Below are all the details of the Berlin embassies
of the participating World Cup countries. The city code
for Berlin is (+49) (0)30.
Angola Wallstraße 58, tel. 24 08 970, botschaft@
botschaftangola.de, http://www.botschaftangola.de.
Argentina Kleiststraße 23-26, tel. 226 68 90, info@
argentinische-botschaft.de, www.argentinische-
botschaft.de.
Australia Wallstr. 76-79, MI, tel. 880 08 80, www.
australian-embassy.de.
Brazil Wallstrasse 57, tel. 72 62 80, brasil@brasember-
lim.de, http://www.brasilianische-botschaft.de.
Costa Rica Dessauer Strasse 28/29, tel. 26 39 89
90, consulado@botschaft-costarica.de, http://www.
botschaft-costarica.de/.
Croatia Ahornstraße 4, tel. 21 91 55 14, info@
kroatische-botschaft.de.
Czech Republic Wilhelmstr. 44, tel. 22 63 80,
www.mzv.cz/berlin.
Ecuador Kaiser-Friedrich-Str. 90, tel. 800 96 95, ale-
mania@embassy-ecuador.org, http://www.embassy-
ecuador.org.
France Pariser Pl. 5, tel. 590 03 90 00, www.
botschaft-frankreich.de.
Ghana Stavangerstr. 17-19, tel. 547 14 90, consular@
ghanaemberlin.de, http://www.ghanaemberlin.de.
Iran Podbielskiallee 65-67, tel. 84 35 30, iran.
botschaft@t-online.de, http://www.iranembassy.de.
Italy Hiroshimastr. 1-7, tel. 25 44 00, w w w.
botschaft-italien.de.
Ivory Coast Lützowstrasse 33-36, tel. 590 02 30.
Japan (Consulate General) D-3, Kleiststr. 23-26,
tel. 21 09 40, www.botschaft-japan.de.
Mexico Klingelhöferstr. 3, tel. 269323 0, mail@
embamexale.de, http://www.embamex.de.
Netherlands Klosterstr. 50, tel. 20 95 60, www.
niederlandeweb.de.
Paraguay Hardenbergstr. 12, tel. 319 98 60, em-
bapyde@t-online.de.
Poland Lassenstr. 19-21, tel. 223 13 20, www.
botschaft-polen.de.
Portugal Zimmerstr. 56, tel. 590 06 35 00.
Saudi-Arabia Kurfürstendamm 63, tel. 88 92 50.
Serbia-Montenegro Taubertstrasse 18, tel. 895
77 00, info@botschaft-smg.de.
South Korea Schöneberger Ufer 89-91, tel. 26 06 50,
koremb-ge@mofat.go.kr, www.koreaemb.de.
Spain Lichtensteinallee 1, TG, tel. 254 00 70, www.
spanischebotschaft.de.
Sweden Rauchstr. 1, tel. 50 50 60, www.schwe-
den.org.
Switzerland Otto-von-Bismarck-Allee 4 A, tel. 390
40 00, vertretung@ber.rep.admin.ch, www.botschaft-
schweiz.de.
Togo Grabbeallee 43, tel. 48 47 64 71, Bbotschaft-
togo@web.de, www.botschaft-togo.de.
Tunisia Lindenallee 16, tel. 36 41 07 0.
Ukraine Albrechtstrasse 26, tel. 28 88 72 20,
ukremb@t-online.de, www.botschaft-ukraine.de.
United Kingdom Wilhelmstr. 70-71, MI, tel. 20 45
70, www.britischebotschaft.de.
USA Neustädtische Kirchstr. 4-5, MI, tel. 830 50,
www.usembassy.de. American Citizen Services: tel.
832 92 33.
June - July 2006
44 direCtory street register 45

Aachener Str. A-2 Brabanter Str. A-2 Gremberger Str. F-3 Kleine Budengasse C-2 Neven-Du-Mont-Str. B-2 Sporthallenweg D-1
Achtergäßchen C-4 Brandenburgstr. C-1 Grenzhausener Weg E/F-3 Kleine Sandkaul (24) C-3 Niederichstr. C-1 St.-Apern-Str. A-2
Achterstr. C-4 Breite Str. B-2 Griechenpforte B-3 Kleine Spitzengasse B-3 Norbertstr. A-2 Stadtgarten A-1/2
Adam-Stegerwald-Str. E/F-1 Bremerstr. B-1 Große Brinkgasse A-2 Kleine Telegraphenstr. B-3 Nord-Süd-Fahrt B-3 Stadtgarten E-3
Adolf-Fischer-Str. B-1 Breslauer Platz C-2 Große Budengasse C-2 Kleine Witschgasse C-3 Obenmarspforten C-2 Stadthaus D/E-2
Adolphstr. D-3 Brigittengäßchen C-2 Große Neugasse C-2 Kleiner Griechenmarkt B-3 Odenwaldstr. F-3 Stauderstr. A-4
Agrippastr. B-3 Brückenstr. B-2 Große Sandkaul C-2/3 Kleingedankstr. B-4 Offenbachplatz B-2 Steinfelder Gasse B-2
Alarichstr. D/E-3 Brüderstr. B-2 Große Witschgasse C-3 Klingelpütz B-1/2 Opladener Str. D-2 Steinstr. B-4
Albertusstr. A-2 Brügelmannstr. E-1/2 Großer Griechenmarkt B-3 Koelhoffstr. C-3 Osterglockenweg E-4 Steinweg C-2
Alemannenstr. E-3 Bruktererstr. D-3 Gülichplatz (22) C-2 Kölnarena E-2 Ostermannplatz (15) C-2 Stephanstraße (29) B/C-3
Alexianerstr. B-3 Brunostr. B/C-4 Gummersbacher Str. E/F-2 Kolpingplatz B-2 Östliche Zubringerstr. E-3 Sternengasse B-3
Alfred-Schütte-Allee D-3/4 Brüsseler Str. A-2 Gürzenichstr. B/C-3 Kolumbastr. B-2 Otto-Fischer-Str. A-4 Stolkgasse B-2
Allerheiligenstr. C-1 Burgenlandstr. D/F-3 Habsburgerring A-3 Komödienstr. B/C-2 Otto-Gerig-Str. D-3/4 Stollwerkhof C-4
Allerseelenstr. E-4 Bürgerstraße (7) C-2 Hachenburger Str. F-3 Königstr. C-3 Ottoplatz D-2 Stolzestr. A-4
Alsenstr. D-2 Burghöfchen (21) B-3 Hafengasse C-2 Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer Overstolzenstr. B-4 Streitzeuggasse B-2
Alte Mauer am Bach B-3 Burgmauer B-2 Hahnenstr. A-3 C-1/2 Palmstr. A-2 Subbelratherstr. A-1
Alte Wallgasse A-2 Burgunderstr. A-4 Halbmondgäßchen (16) C-2 Konstantin-Wille-Str. F-4 Pantaleonsgasse B-3 Sudermannplatz B-1
Alteburgerstr. C-4 Buschgasse C-4 Hamburger Str. B-1 Kostgasse C-2 Pantaleonsmühlengasse Sudermannstr. B-1
Altenbergerstr. C-1/2 Buttermarkt C-2 Hämergasse B-2 Krahnenstr. C-1 A-3/4 Suevenstr. D-3
Altengrabengäßchen B-2 Cäcilienstr. B-3 Händelstr. A-3 Krebsgasse B-2 Pantaleonswall A/B-4 Taubengasse A-3
Alter Markt C-2 Camberger Str. F-3 Hans-Carl-Nipperdey-Str. A-4 Krefelder Str. B-1 Pastor-Könn-Platz A-2 Taubenholzweg F-4
Alter Mühlenweg D-3/4 Cardinalstr. B-2 Hansaring B-1 Kreuzgasse B-2 Paul-Schallück-Str. A-4 Taunusplatz F-3
Am Alten Posthof B-2 Cheruskerstr. D-3 Hardefuststr. B-4 Kronengasse B-3 Paulstr. A-4 Taunusstr. F-3
Am Alten Ufer C-1/2 Chlodwigplatz C-4 Hasertstr. D-3 Kroppacher Str. F-3 Perlengasse (2) B-2 Tel-Aviv-Str. B-3
Am Bayernturm C-4 Christophstr. A/B-2 Hauptbahnhof C-2 Krummer Büchel B-3 Perlengraben B-3 Tempelstr. D-2/3
Am Bollwerk C-2 Christtannenweg E-4 Heinrich-Böll-Platz C-2 Kuhlemannsstr. B-3 Perlenpfuhl B-2 Tenktererstr. D-3
Am Deutzer Stadtgarten Clemensstr. B-3 Heinrichstr. B-3 Kunftstr. F-1/2 Peter-Stühlen-Str. F-2 Teutonenstr. D-3
D/E-3 Clever Str. C-1 Heinsberger Str. A-3 Kunibertgasse C-1 Peterstr. B-3 Theo-Burauen-Platz (3) C-2
Am Domhof C-2 Constantin Str. D-2 Helenenstr. A/B-2 Kunibertskloster C-1 Pfälzer Str. A-4 Theoderichstr. F-3
Am Duffesbach A-4 Cordulastr. B-1 Helenenwallstr. D-3 Kunibertsklostergasse C-1 Pfälzischer Ring E/F-1 Theodor-Babilon-Str. D-2
Am Frankenturm (6) C-2 Corneliusstr. C-4 Heribertusstr. D-3 Kupfergasse B-2 Pfarrer-Moll-Str. F-3 Theodor-Brauer-Str. E/F-1
Am Grauen Stein E/F-4 Custodisstr. D-3 Herkulesstr. A-1 Kurfürstenstr. C-4 Pfeilstr. A-2 Theodor-Heuss-Ring C-1
Am Hof C-2 Dagobertstr. C-1 Hermann-Becker-Str. A-1 Kurt-Hackenbergplatz C-2 Pfingstrosenweg E-4 Theodor-Hürth-Str. D-3
Am Justizzentrum A-4 Dasselstr. A-3 Hermann-Joseph-Platz C-3 Kurze Str. F-2 Pilgrimstr. A-3 Thieboldsgasse B-3
Am Kümpchenshof A/B-1 Dechant-Löbbel-Platz B-1 Hermann-Pünder-Str. D-2 Kyffhäuserstr. A-3 Pipinstr. C-3 Thürmchenswall C-1
Am Leystapel C-3 Deutz-Kalker-Str. D/F-2 Herwarthstr. A-2 Kyotostr. B-1 Plankgasse B-1 Thurnmarkt C-3
Am Malzberg C-3 Deutz-Mülheimer-Str. E-1/2 Herzogstr. B-2 Lahnstr. F-3 Plectrudengasse (28) C-3 Thusneldastr. D/E-3
Am Pantaleonsberg B-3/4 Deutzer Brücke C-3 Heumarkt C-2 Landsbergstr. C-4 Poll-Vingster-Str. F-4 Tipsgasse (19) C-2
Am Rinkenpfuhl A-3 Deutzer Freiheit D-2 Hildeboldplatz A-2 Langobardenstr. D-3 Poller Kirchweg D/E-4 Trajanstr. C-4
Am Römertor B-2 Deutzer Ring D/F-3 Hillscheider Weg F-3 Laurenzgittergäßchen (4) C-2 Portalsgasse (9) C-2 Trierer Str. A/B-4
Am Salzmagazin B-1 Deutzer Werft D-3 Hirschgasse C-4 Laurenzplatz C-2 Postprivatstr. B-2 Trimbornstr. F-2/3
Am Trutzenberg B-3/4 Dillenburger Str. F-3 Hochhadenstr. A-3/4 Legienstr. E-1 Poststr. B-3 Troisdorfer Str. D-3
Am Weldenbach B-3/4 Domgasse B-2 Hochpfortenbüchel B-3 Leonhard-Teitz-Str. B-3 Prinzen-Garde-Wall A-4 Tunisstr. B-2
Am Weyertor A-3 Domprobst-Ketzer-Str. B-2 Hohe Pforte B-3 Lichthof C-3 Probsteigasse A-2/B-1 Turiner Str. C-1
An den Dominikanern B-2 Domstr. C-1 Hohe Straße B-2/3 Limburger Str. A-2 Quatermarkt (23) C-2 Ubierring C-4
An den Maien E-4 Dr.-Simons-Str. E-4 Hohenstaufenring A-3 Lindenstr. A-3 Quentelstr. C-4 Ulitzkastr. F-1
An der Bastion D-3 Dreikönigenstr. C-4 Hohenzollernring A-2 Lintgasse C-2 Quirinstr. B-3 Ulrepfort B-4
An der Berlich B-2 Drususgasse B-2 Höhrer Weg E/F-3 Lochnerstr. A-3 Rathausplatz (8) C-2 Ulrichgasse B-4
An der Bottmühle C-4 Düppelstr. D-2 Holzgasse C-3 Lorenzstr. D-3 Rathenauplatz A-3 Unter Fettenhennen B-2
An der Eiche C-4 Ebertplatz C-1 Holzmarkt C-3 Lothringer Str. B-4 Reinoldstr. B-3 Unter Goldschmied C-2
An der Hahnepooz A-3 Edith-Stein-Str. E-1 Höninger Weg A-4 Löwengasse C-3 Reischplatz D-2 Unter Kahlenhausen C-1
An der Lenzwiese F-3/4 Efeuplatz E-4 Hühnergasse (13) C-2 Lübecker Str. B-1 Reitweg E-3 Unter Käster C-2
An der Linde C-1 Ehrenstr. A-2 Huhnsgasse A-3 Ludwig-Str. B-2 Rengsdorfer Str. D/F-3 Unter Krahnenbäumen C-1
An der Malzmühle C-3 Eifelplatz A-4 Humboldtstr. A-3 Luisenstr. D-2/3 Rheinaustr. C-3 Unter Sachsenhausen B-2
An der Münze C-1 Eifelstr. A/B-4 Idsteiner Str. F-3 Lungengasse B-3 Rheingasse C-3 Unter-Taschenmacher (33)
An der Pauluskirche B-4 Eifelwall A-4 Im Bischofsacker F-1 Lütticher Str. A-2 Rheinpark D-1 C-2
An der Pulvermühle F-3 Eigelstein B-1 Im Dau B/C-4 Luxemburger Str. A-3/4 Rheinparkweg D-1 Urbanstr. D-2
An der Rechtschule B-2 Eintrachtstr. B-1 Im Ferkulum C-4 Luxemburger Wall A-4 Richard-Wagner-Str. A-3 Ursulagartenstr. B-1
An der Ruhr B-2 Eitorfer Str. E-2/3 Im Glockenring B-1 Maastricher Str. A-2 Richartz-Str. B-2 Ursulakloster B-1
Apotheke im Hauptbahnhof C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. Mauritius Therme A-3, Mauritiuskirchplatz 3-11, An Lyskirchen
An Sankt Magdalenen C-4
C-3 Elisenstr.
Elsaßstr.
B-2
B/C-4
Im Hasental
Im Klapperhof
D-3
A-2
Machabäerstr.
Magnusstr.
C-1
A/B-2
Richmodstr.
Riehler Str.
B-2
C-1
Ursulaplatz
Ursulastr.
B-1
B-1
139 11 12. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. MMauritiuskirchplatz, tel. 92 41 39 10, www.mauri- An St. Agatha B-3 Elstergasse B-2 Im Krahnenhof C-1 Mainzer Str. C-4 Ritterstr. B-1 Usinger Str. F-3
Closed Sun. tius-ht.de. A thermal bath designed to seduce the senses An St. Katharinen
An St. Urban
C-3/4
F-1
Emser Str.
Enge
F-3
F-2
Im Laach
Im Mediapark
B-3
A-1
Maler-Bock-Gäßchen (30) C-4
Maria-Ablaß-Platz B-2
Robertstr.
Röhrergasse
F-2/3
B-2
Vallendarer Str.
Venloer Str.
F-3
A-2
Birkenapotheke Hohestaufenring 59, tel. 240 22 and calm the soul. Enjoy the many various saunas and steam An Zint Jan
Ankerstr.
C-3/4
B-4
Engelbertstr.
Enggasse
A-3
B-2
Im Sionstal
Im Stavenhof
C-3
B-1
Mariengasse
Marienplatz
B-2
C-3
Rolshover Kirchweg
Rolshover Str.
E-4
F-2/4
Venloer Wall
Verkehrsübungsplatz F-4
A-1
42. rooms here, or relax in one of the meditation rooms. A perfect Annostr. C-4 Erftstr. A-1 Im Weichserhof C-3 Markmannsgasse C-2 Römergasse A-2 Victoriastr. B-1
Hansa Apotheke C-1, Ebertplatz 7, tel. 73 18 92. place to unwind, and only a five minute walk from Neumarkt. Antoniastr.
Antoniterstr.
F-2
B-3
Erich-Klibansky-Platz A-2
Esser Str. F-3
Immergrünweg
In der Fleischhalle (25)
E-4 Markomannenstr.
Marsenstr.
D-3
D-3
Roncalliplatz
Roonstr.
C-2
A-3
Vietorstr.
Vogteistr.
F-2
B-1
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Q Admission €12 for 3hrs. Antonsgasse B-3 Eumeniusstr. D-2/3 C-2/3 Marsilstein A-3 Rosenstr. C-4 Volksgarten A-4
Antwerpener Str. A-2 Färbergasse B-3 In der Höhle C-2 Marspfortengasse (12) B/C-2 Rote-Funken-Plätzchen C-2 Volksgartenstr. B-4
Aposteln-Kloster A-2/3 Faßbindergasse (20) C-2 Isabellenstr. B-4 Marsplatz C-2 Rothgerberbach B-3 Volpertusstr. F-3

Pools Apostelnstr.
Appellhofplatz
Aquinostr.
A-2
B-2
B-1
Feldbergstr.
Ferdinandstr.
Filzengraben
F-3
E-1
C-3
Jabachstr.
Jahnstr.
Jakob-Rasquin-Str.
B-3
A-3
F-4
Martinsfeld
Martinspförtchen (17) C-2
Martinstr.
B-3

C-2
Rubensstr.
Rudolfplatz
Saarstr.
A-3
A-2
A-4
Von-Gablenz-Str.
Von-Sandt-Platz
Von-Werth-Str.
D-3
D-2
A-1/2
Agrippabad B-3,. AgrippabadKaemmergasse 1PostStr.T: Arminiusstr.
Arndtstr.
D-3
A-3
Fischmarkt
Flammersfelder Str.
C-2
F-3
Jakobstr.
Jakordenstr.
B/C-4
C-1
Marzellenstr.
Maternusstr.
B/C-2
C-4
Sachsenring
Salierring
B-4
A-4
Vondelstr. B-4
Vor den Siebenburgen B-4
0221 279 17 30www.koelnbaeder.deIf you get the urge to go Arnold-Overzier-Str. C-4 Flanderische Str. A-2 Johannisstr. C-1/2 Mathiasstr. C-3 Salomgasse C-2 Vor St. Martin (27) C-3
Arnold-von-Siegen-Str. (32) C-4 Fleischmengergasse B-3 Josef-Haubrich-Hof B-3 Mathildenstr. D-3 Salzgasse C-2 Vorgebirgstr. B-4
swimming yet are turned off by the colour of the Rhein then Arnoldsstr. D-3 Follerstr. C-3 Josephstr. B/C-4 Mauritiuskirchplatz A-3 Sauerlandstr. F-4 Vorsterstr. F-2
do not despair, for there is the Agrippabad with its large laps Auenweg
Auf dem Brand (5)
C/D-1
C-2
Frankengasse
Frankenplatz
B/C-2
C-2
Judengasse (10)
Judenkirchhofsweg
C-2
E-4
Mauritiussteinweg A/B-3
Mauritiusweg A-3
Schaafenstr.
Schaevenstr.
A-3
A-3
Wahner Str.
Waidmarkt
D-3
B-3
pool, kids pools, outside pools, slippery-slide, diving boards, Auf dem Hunnenrücken B-2 Frankstr. A-3 Juliusstr. E/F-1 Mauthgasse C-2 Schartgasse B-3 Waisenhausgasse B-3/4
Auf dem Rothenberg C-2 Friedensstr. B-3 Jupp-Schmitz-Plätzchen 11) C-2 Max-Glomsda-Str. F-4 Schaurtestr. D-3 Wallrafplatz B-2
saunas, and fitness area. A great place to tire out the kids, Auf Rheinberg C-3 Friedrichstr. A/B-3 Justinianstr. D-2 Maximinenstr. C-1/2 Schemmergasse B-3 Walter-Kasper-Weg E-3/4
so expect shrill cries of happiness from them. Q Admission Augustinerstr.
Bahnhofvorplatz
C-3
C-2
Friesenplatz
Friesenstr.
A-2
A-2
Kaesenstr.
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring
A/B-4
A-2
Maybachstr.
Mechtildisstr.
A/B-1
C-3
Schildergasse
Schillingstr.
B-2
C-1
Walter-Pauli-Ring
Waltharistr.
F-1/2
E-3
€4.50m, €12.50 incl. saunas, for 2hrs. Balduinstr. A-3 Friesenwall A-2 Kalk-Mülheimer-Str. F-1/2 Media-Park A-1 Schnurgasse B-4 Wattstr. F-3
Claudius Therme Sachsenbergstr. 1, www.claudius- Balthasarstr.
Barbarossaplatz
B-1
A-3
Gabelsberger Str.
Gaußstr.
A-4
E/F-1
Kalker Hauptstr.
Kaltenbornweg
F-2
D-4
Meister-Gerhard-Str. A-3
Mengelbergstr. B-3
Schwalbengasse
Schwertnergasse (1) B-2
B-2 Weberstr.
Wehrgasse
C-3
C-2
therme.de. A very large and busy thermal bath. What is lost Barmer Platz D-2 Gebrüder-Coblenz-Str. E-3 Kamekastr. A-2 Merowinger Str. C-4 Sedanstr. C-1 Weidengasse B-1
Bataverstr. D-3 Genter Str. A-2 Kämmergasse B-3 Messeboulevard C/D-1 Seidenmacherinnen- Weilburger Str. F-3
in the size of the place is made up for with the extensive Baumstr. B-3 Georgsplatz C-3 Kannebäckerstr. E-3 Messeplatz D-2 gäßchen (14) C-2 Werderstr. A-2
array of saunas, spas, pools, meditation rooms and bars. Bayernstr.
Bebelplatz
C-4
D-3
Georgstr.
Gereonsdriesch
C-3
B-2
Kardinal-Frings-Str.
Karl-Berbuer-Platz
B-2
A-4
Messeturm
Metzer Str.
D-1
B-4
Servasgase
Severinsbrücke
C-1
C/E-3
Wermelskircher Str.
Westerwaldstr.
F-1
F-3
To ensure a comfortable time, bring a towel, a bath-robe Bechergasse C-2 Gereonshof A-2 Karl-Korn-Str. C-4 Michaelstr. A-3 Severinskloster C-4 Wetzlarer Str. F-3
Beethovenstr. A-3 Gereonskloster A-2 Karlsruher Str. F-1 Mindener Str. D-2 Severinsmühlengasse C-4 Weyerstr. A-3
and a pair of sandals. Anglo-Saxon inhibitions have no place Belfortstr. C-1 Gereonsmühlengasse B-1/2 Karlstr. D-2 Minoritenstr. B-2 Severinstor C-4 Wilhelm-Hoßdorf-Str. B-3
here: bathing costumes are not deemed appropriate. Q Bendorfer Weg
Benediktusgasse
E/F-3
D-3
Gereonstr.
Gereonswall
B-2
A/B-1
Karolingerring
Karthäusergasse
C-4
B-4
Mittelstr.
Mohrenstr.
A-2
B-2
Severinstr.
Severinswall
C-3/4
C-4
Willy-Brandt-Platz
Wipperfürther Str.
D/E-2
F-2
Admission €13 for 2hrs. Benesisstr. A-2 Gertrudenstr. B-2 Karthäuserhof B/C-4 Montabaurer Weg F-3 Seyengasse C-4 Wissener Weg E-3/4
Benjaminstr. D-3 Geyergasse (26) C-3 Karthäuserwall B/C-4 Mörsergasse B-2 Siegburger Str. D/E-3/4 Wolfstr. B-2
Betzdorfer Str. D-2 Gießener Str. E/F-3 Kasermattenstr. D-2 Moselstr. A-4 Siegesstr. D-2 Wörthstr. C-1
Biberstr. C-4 Gilbachstr. A-1 Kasinostr. C-3 Mozartstr. A-3 Sieversstr. F-2 Zeppelinstr. B-2
Bischofsgartenstr. C-2 Gladbacher Str. A-1 Kasparstr. B-1 Mühlenbach C-3 Silvanstr. C-4 Zeughausstr. B-2
Bismarckstr. A-2 Glockengasse B-2 Kastellgäßchen (18) C-2 Mühlengasse C-2 Singhofener Str. F-4 Zugasse C-4
Blaubach B-3 Goebenstr. A-2 Katharinengraben C-3 Nassauer Str. F-3 Sonnenscheinstr. E-1 Zülpicher Platz A-3
Blaue-Funken-Wall B-4 Goldgasse C-2 Katharinenhof C-4 Neue Langgasse B-2 Speditionshof D-1 Zülpicher Str. A-3
www.inyourpocket.com Blumenstr.
Bobstr.
B-1
B-3
Görresstr.
Gotenring
A-3
D-2/3
Kattenbug
Kaygasse
B-2
B-3
Neue Weyerstr.
Neuhöfferstr.
A/B-3
D-2
Spichernstr. A-1/2
Spielmannsgasse (31) C-4
Zwirnerstr. C-4

Bolzengasse C-2 Grabengasse D-3 Kennedy-Ufer D-2 Neuköllner Str. B-3 Spiessergasse A-2
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Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006

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