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By: Swapnil M. Patil, P.P.Raichurkar,Akhilesh Shukla, Ramkesh Yadav, S.Tharakeshwari & Pranjali Chandurkar
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In this project the optimum heat setting for the Lycra knitted fabric is studied. Achieving best heat setting means perfect dimensional stability of the knitted fabric. During heat setting process the fabric is passed through heated chambers of 200C for achieving the desired property of the Lycra knitted fabric. If the parameters like over feed, temperature, speed etc. suddenly changed, the fabric quality like GSM, width, Dimensional stability of the knitted fabric also change, thus resulting in variation between and within fabrics.
Key Points: Heat setting of Lycra, over feed, Temperature, Speed for Heat setting etc.
Introduction
Lycra blended fabric heat setting is a critical process. During heat setting process, the fabric runs continuously in the stenter machine. Any minute changes in the machine parameters will result in fabric quality variation. Lycra is a registered trademark used for DuPont's elastane fillament. Elastane is a generic term, like polyamide or polyester. It defines a manmade fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a synthetic chain polymer containing at least 85% segmented polyurethane. Lycra filament is knitted or woven under tension along with other yarns. When relaxed, it tends to compact the fabric length and width to a jam point. The hard fiber buckles when the fabric is jammed, and it limits the extension of the fabric when it is being stretched. Elastic fabrics are very often appears wider and lighter, than their width and weight at Jam point.
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Heat setting is a term used in the textile industry to describe a thermal process taking place mostly in either a steam atmosphere or a dry heat environment. The effect of the process gives fibers, yarns or fabric dimensional stability and, very often, other desirable attributes like higher volume, wrinkle resistance or temperature resistance.
Object of heat setting: 1) Improve the dimensional stability of fabric. 2) Improve the dye uptake of fabric. 3) Improve the crease resistance of fabric 4) Improve resistance to pilling 5) Remove creases formed during earlier processes.
Lycra yarn has outstanding elastic properties - very high stretch and recovery as well as high power at stretch. Its other important characteristic includes good abrasion resistance, long wear life, and strength.
The most fabrics which contain fine Lycra elastane filament, particularly in knitted fabrics, needs heat setting to impart an adequate Dimensional stability and flatness at a given fabrics GSM and Width.
Grey fabrics have to be heat-set in stretched condition, if their width is less than the desired finished width. Fabric should be heat set prior to hot wet processing in order to reduce shrinkage, control curling and prevent discoloration of goods. Setting after the wet process yields fabrics which can less stable, more curly and less white than the preset ones. Therefore, it is advisable to preset fabrics with Lycra.
Excessive heat exposure will over set the fabric whilst too little heat will leave it under set. Under setting of a fabric may lead to more shrinkage and curling, higher weight and narrower width than expected, whereas oversetting ma discolor it, reduce its power too much or impair the dye uniformity of companion hard fibers.
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1) QUALITY
- 34*20 CT /LY S/J Elason extra soft - 30/28 - 3.0 - 230 - 4.3
During heat setting process continuous running fabric on stenter machine any minute change in the only one parameter (like, change overfeed) and result in vast variation in fabric quality. Then fabric passes through the dyeing& finally finishing.
Study of different process parameter during heat setting and finishing process:
Parameter Overfeed (%) Temperature ( OC) Speed ( m/min) Nip Pressure ( bar) Expander width ( cm) Blower ( rpm) Before width ( cm) After width (cm) Before gsm After gsm
Ilsung Stenter 40
(H/S)
Ilsung Stenter S1( soft) 45 190 13 2 177 1500 164 179 171 -5.5*-1.5 0.5%
190 12-13 (70sec) 3 178 1800 165 182 195 215 L = 0.5* W= 0.2 2%
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