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520

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"We
PERFECT
DRESSMAKING
SYSTEM

Sl

VyV:.

1914

COPYRIGHT
BY

ELLA

A.

BENNETT

/5/vf/^^The

Perfect

Dressmaking
For
Perfect
seam

with

lit to

any

is not

tape

an}^

as
seams

children's
chart.

to

The

garments.

It

drafts

simply
give perfect lines

or

square

measure

insures

System

good lines that


a
good fit. A
placed where

wants,
well

and

and

every

perfect

figure.

Perfect

The

the

ladies', misses'

cutting
System

System

what

especially adapted

are

garment

be

may

bring

they

today;
figure as;

her

to

made

out

of

woman

every

fit with

to

defect

every

all

in

the

figure.
Perfect

The
for

"

style must
the
figure

any

of

lines

is the

System
in

the

is

what

the

size

not

have

to

do

Perfect

The

how

knows
never

cut

Most
Perfect

invest

System

in

and
often

garment.

in

women

measures

and

wants

garment

you

more

l)e.

before
use

garments
life.
year

time

by

any

times
that

the

It

garment.

measure.

look,

to

changing,
than

cut

tape

any

many

patterns

require

Perfect

The

inexpensive
system
is no
no
changing,
It is practical because
some
or
pasteboards

can

learned

be

her
each

of
you

her

patterns,

naturally

takes

can

the

there

number

can

style,
to

come

garment.
and

of

out

go

must

seams

perfect
practical

not

can

you

System
she

and

seams,

have

because

inexpensive

that

system

simple,
simple because
or
figure may

with

contrivance

insure

to

is

It

is

have

most

world.

matter

you
other

System

are

which
actual

even

that

woman

if she

the

price

not

cut

to

has

of

the

their

is wearisome

making

of

taking"the

Before
across

from

front

Avaist

back

of the

and

shoulder,
One

line.

case

wasting
inches

A\^atch

form

the

until

paper

then

All
wanted

to

until

they

garment.

without

inches

twenty

wide
this

straight across
Fig. 2.

drafting patterns.

and

number

on

measures

your

measurements,

necessary

taken

be

just

wanted

are

taken

be

1.

Fig.

line

2 to 4.
in

4.

dot.

parts

some

must

measures

all the

should

fit ; if

to

straight across

one

2 to

Draw

dot

taken

dot

See

about

See

just

to

measurements

to

arm

easilyrectified

be

paper

diagram

have

you
from

cut

top.

and

easier

It is much

down

the

neck.

can

top.

long.

from

six inches

about

and

center

One

under

patterns from
paper
before
cutting
system

from

inches

twenty-one

down

line.

directly
the

they

back, take

the

waist

to

placed straight

One

about
front, take a paper
twenty-hve
inches wide, draw
a line straight across

inches

four

cutting

In

the

mistakes

of any
material.

this al^out

and

the

cutting the waist


long and twenty

In

and

cut

be

neck.

back,

below

inches

beginner should
thoroughly understand
in

of

center

The

So

should

neck
from

one

down
four

about

line

junction of the

the

at

junction

the

of

center

the

chest

the

measure

that

as

the
and

loose

is

garment
others

tight,

way.

from
the straight line at the
depth
of
2 to 2. Width
shoulder
to straight line at junction of neck
is taken
neck
on
straight line at junction of neck 1 to 1. But
front line.
and curved
to center
be placed at top of neck
must
Shoulder.
neck
2.
From
at 1 to shoulder
point at 3 gives
the shoulder
drop.
length, and from 4 to 4 gives shoulder
Xeck.

1.

"

is taken

The

"

3.
as

Arnieye.

low

line under
of

depth
to

6 and
5.

6 to

arm

to

line

Cut

waist

Length

should

line,
of

Avaist line at

or

7.

added

4 inches

Front.

"

at

arm

be

from

half

in

Line.

Waist

under

trim

to

taken

be

4 to

out

the

5.

front

center
come

just

high

as

distance

line
up

as

from

to 4.

up
at

should

should

This

6.

straight

curve

at

is taken

This

"

of Front

3 inches

at

6.

the

depth of the armeye


leaving anything

Front.

armseye.

\\^idth

desired

of

not

gradually

front

to

desired,

Width

4.
to

as

The

"

From

"

7 to
to

is taken

8.

If unlined

this

for dart
the

This

in

to

measure

from

ter
cen-

waist

give

is

ness
full-

lining.

junction

of

the

neck

at

7.

Length

line 6 to
8.

"

From

underarm

on

line

u"

waist

9.

Dart.
not

of Uiulerarni.

"

in

This

is

general

only
use

to

with

be

used

present

when

sired,
tight lining is deMeasure
back
styles.

from

center

bust,

then

taper

out

front
taken
to

and
up

up

from

tlie4

highest part

waist

inches

of dart

line to

allowed
10.

at

highest point
waist

line

of

and

Neck.

9.
2

Then

2.

to

from

and

Width
under

line

to

the

not

Back.

arm

of

back

center

waist

14.

be

6.

that

length
from

up

should

armeye

trim

to

is taken
This

4 to

at

at

^^'aist

under

arm

should

be

back

center

come

5.

4 to

out.

from

should

taken

be

line

high

as

distance

as

up

from

6,

to

4.

to

up

Line.
7 to

added

From

"

To

"

is taken

This

"

8.

this

to

If unlined

from

waist

is

ness
full-

give

to

measure

of neck

junction

15.

^Measure
under

up

should

measure

straight

from

inches

eight

across

Arm.

be

good

well

as

2 to

at

fit to

placed

on

the

fit the

arm.

long

and

the

down

waist

sleeve

twenty
and

center

one

1.

to

Place

"

1 to

arm

line

top 1

the

Around
the

as

twenty^-eightinches

inches

and

waist

fit into the

to

cut

comfort

give

about
paper
wide.
Draw
a

Take

the

1.

(See

each

side

tape

line

loosely

of the
Fig. 3.)
of straight line (down
Half

center).

Top Shape of
together at underarm,
16.

in

back.

of

Sleeve.

Then

the

then

curve,

17.

Height

line around

length

was

arm

remove

of
to

placed

point

taken, then

"

of

pattern
part of
and

so

curve

is not
the

Cut

waist

and

pattern

of

This

inches.

two

front
Sleeve.

waist

part

line 1.
is

right side, but


brought back about

for

the

lowest

on

back

lowest

place
right side of measure
of
shape as armeye

unpin

and

measures

and

the

at

at

same

the

front

the
it

paper

the

Pin

"

then

on

cut

(pattern) at

front
side

Then

1.

line
to

front

in the

curve

of

1.

shoulder

straight in half the

of Back.

Sleeve.

it must

is

shoulder,

on

1 to

measure

back

7.

14.

the

neck

the

line.

Length

line at

close

This

"

to

Back

line

to

2 inches

at

and

depth of the
leaving anything

of

Width

desired

line

for

measure

measure,

Cut
depth of armeye.
and then gradually curve
13.

across

to

on

The

"

desired,

12.

up

front

shoulder

to

line

back

center

drop.

Armeye.

just as

from

Use

"

for the

shoulder

11.

width

from

center

up

straight line

taken

for

the

Shoulder.

10.
was

Measure

"

on

place
at

paper

on

up
the
left

placed straight as

low^er
like the

part of pattern
pattern to top

pattern.
Measure

up

shoulder,

mark

this

or

measure

center
to

where
up

of

arm

the
from

from

shoulder

straight

/T^.S.

line around

shape
18.
the

arm

the

of armeye
Arm
to

arm

Length."
hand

center

on

5 to

5 to
This

2 to 2.

line 4 to 4.

highest part
should

Then

of center

be taken

from

curve

from

measure

well

the
at

up

4.

under

Bottom

19.

the

over

slipped

of Sleeve.

and

side of center

part of

arm

arm

minus

1 to

measure

from
1.

is desired

hand

size.

one

Dot

"

1 to

taken

loose

be

can

is
on

easily
placed on
the right

3 to 3.

line

at

measure

fullness

1 and

be

sleeve

largest

to

3.

Fig.

the

the

plus one
inch
is placed
of sleeve length

bottom

at

Shape.

If full sleeve
and

half

measure

Sleeve

20.

should

measure

largest part of the hand


so
Half
of the hand, measure
on.

left side

the

This

"

3 to

should

1)e added

the

to

3.

Skirts.

beginner should
thoroughly understand
The

When
be

the

skirt

snug.

The

hip

w^aist

line, and
This

floor.

than

shorter
floor

from

patterns

the

measures

waist

is taken

measure

taken

be

they

measures

taken

are

get the shape.


floor length it can

should

measure

inches

seven

but

easy,

is to

the

until

paper

system.

should

back

front, side and


the

the

taking

taken

the

cut

loose.

not

from

below

waist

the

Then

if the

be

subtracted

The
line to

skirt

is to

from

be
the

length.

practice use a five gored skirt in the following measures


25 waist, 40 hips, 38 front, 39 side and
39^^ inch back
the bottom.
length, and 2^ yards around
For

Five
measure

into

five

the

waist

inches

at

gore.

The

the

four

five

the

skirt

front, each

the

the

front
1.
of the
double

front.
to

line and

8 inches

which

is twice

gore

the

and

measure

then

You

the

at

hip

width

inches

17^

inches, leaves

gore is cut double,


skirt pattern.
See

gored

As

w^aist

the

equal parts (for gores).

10

or

Divide

"

skirt

line

for

of the
for

hip
5

have
each

at

top
of

each

the

gores.

each

As

at

front

bottom,

other

Skirt.

Gored

back

Front
gore
fold.

is

measure

be

Gore.

"

measure

Measure

Fig.

4.

^^ inch
at

paper

is used
back

higher

for

2}^

the

top,

in center
the

pieces

never

for

front,

inches

at

as

at

the

from

bottom.

gore,

it is cut

waist, and

l:"ack than

lengths

front

in

than

back

the

at

in skirt

difference

The

three

have

longer in the

inches

be

made

Fold

just

1^

must
gore
See Fig. 4.
must

you

up

half
the

on

"1

an

inch, down

7 inches

inches,then'38
5 inches
width

wide

of the

down
at

top

for
center

bottom.
at

the

hip depth, and back from


front,38^^ inches at back
The

bottom.

F^o.f.

front

gore

should

be

center

gore
twice

and
the

Side

2.

Gore.

Measure

back

from

the

straight

"

paper

inches

hip

depth

bias

side

side

at

and
of
is

gore

back

waist

join

to

it

of

inch,

from

gore,

the

where

inches

th^

long

inches

17}^

for

As

inches

38j/^

cut

and

inches

edge.

38j/2
be

must

the

down

of

edge
7

straight

measures

gore
on.

side

up

inches

front

the

and

back

bias

or

the

at"

wide

the
the

at

bottom.

Back

3.

Gore.

Measure

back

from

straight

the

paper
for
bias

gore

edge
and

hip

inches

of

is
and

17^

to

side

the

join
39^
inches

on,

from

inches
wide

long
at

straight

be

must

at

the

the
bottom.

39
back

edge
39

cut

inch,

}"^

up

measures

gore

it

and

waist,

back

and

depth

side

the

at

inches

inches

or

down

bias

inches

inches.

As

where

long

at

side

of

edge

"

the
the
of

the
back

straight
the

gore,

/7^. S.

Fig. 5 differs
length is 1
hich longer on

front

/2

the

inch

lower

front,

"^--

See

at
J-

from
inch
the
the

Fig. 4 only in the skirt length. The


longer in the front than in the side,and
side
back

diagram

than
or

"

in

-^"

in the

bias

Fig. 5.

side

back.
at

the

Each

gore

top than

is cut
it is at

7^/ V. ^

Fio-

differs

and back
frontTside

straight
the

same

across

from

only
at

length.

being
the

top.

Fig.
the

same

Both

in

the

skirt

length,
sides

of

the

each

lengths.
gores
gore

are

will

Ihe
cut

be

Plaited
skirt

The

4, 5 and
one

at

shown

6, but
center

with
back.

in

Fig. 7

allowance
Two

^".

Skirts.

Gathered

or

is the
for

inches

same

one
are

?'

skirt

shown

pleat at

each

allowed

on

in
seam
seam

Figs.
and

side

from.
to

back

center

size

gathers

of

each
as

make

to

plaited

When

or

gore

desired.

in

diagram

See

seam.

Then

is

this

brought

over

plait.

for

Fig.

is

skirt

gathered
as

7.

Fig.

plain
8

skirt.
skirt

shows

/^/(7.

9.

first

used,
Then
with

find
add

two

the

exact

plaits
plaits

at

and
side

front

gore

like

(front) of

side

back

gore,

the

front

and

gathers

at

top

(back).

of center
One

and

Piece

Figs.

Waist.

1 and

2.

"

Cut
Pin

out

these

together

F/^. /o

and
at

the

back

pattern

shoulder

line.

If the
be

waist

layed

is to
the

on

back

may

seam

in front.

Place

2.

the

half

arm,

back

and

If

long

sleeves

to

hand

measure

point

line.

shoulder

to

fold

of

the

full

length

Pin

"

the

Then

w^aist

the

The

part

of

the

side

of

the

should

be

If short
the

taken

sleeves

bottom

they should be tapered


length 3 to 3.

sleeve

should

Fig-.9.

each

on

length.
tapered to

be

front

material, leaving the

come

sleeve

not

Collars.

the
See

desired

desired
at

1.

Diagram

The

should

are

back

material.

should

1.

1 to

they

the

loosely around

measure

shoulder

used

be

to

front

the

from

of

double

measure

this

of

fold

the

on

in

opened

double

laid

be

be

from

are

1 to

together

pattern

2.

to

at

on
place
yoke is to be used in the front, mark
the
(See
shape and
depth of yoke desired.
pattern the
Cut
the
of
around
neck
in
and
back
diagram.)
shape
yoke
in front.
If no
the shape of the
yoke is used, cut all around
neck.
The
collar may
then be cut any shape or size.
If square
collar is to be used, as in diagram 1, lines 2 and
2 must
.come
at the same
on
point
armeye.

the

of

fold

2.

Yokes.

depth

from

Diagram
the

same

desired

and

and

back

should
the

the

on

seams
as

than

point
of the
same

is to

armeye
distance
is

from

the

not

to

the

from
be

shoulder.

line. See

the

to
curve.

the
used

or

line

the

depths
width

waist

have

require

should

should

waist

line
back
seam

be

If

"

placed

it follows

so

the
as

it must

the
l)e

than
at

the

3 and

the

the

shape
be

the

If the

arm.

put in

4,

gibson

from

line should
at

the

be

wider

not

is
be

to

will

Tucks.

yoke

the

If the
will

of

center

around

back

Other

gibson,

style yoke

1^ inches narrower
yoke in diagrams

In the
underarm

as

be

front

back, the pattern

also, which

yoke

1,
neck,

the

as

and

back.

the

be

1 and

around

size and

trace

shoulder

should

straight

the

the

front

material

Gibsons

4.

shoulder
to

double

should

back

neck

shoulder

down

the

shoulder

used

be

of the

tuck

and

3 and

the

Square

shoulder.

at the

Diagrams
tuck

or

yokes
yoke
square

depth.

bottom

and

in other

the

fold, then

in the
of

and

in the

opened

at

double

fold

from

pattern

be

neck

side

double
the

on

same

the

the

on

open

the

on

in the

out

cut

cut

laid

front

shoulder, excepting

the

on

is to

necks

shaped

in the

width

pinned together

front

and

neck

on

or

the

same

waist

If the
be

the

Mark

depth.

desired.

Round

"

the

be

the

width

any
Avhich
should

to

If

material.

back

center

seam

LIBRARY

OF

014

061

CONGRESS

899

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