[ars Imien “Con PDF Pattern ShwinDesigns® AA Gathered Bodice, Scoop Back Neck 3 Sleeve Options 2 Back options Print Pattem at 100% Do not seale Cut at grey lines ‘Tape pages together following guide Gut or trace desired size www.Shwindesigns bigeartel.comize of Child Chest 20" 2" 23" 33" 4" 25" 26" 27" Pleated Back 1 yard 1 yard 11/8 yard 11/4 yards 11/4 yards 11/2 yards 11/2 yards 11/2 yards Regular Back 3/4 yard 3/4yard 3/4 yard 1 yard 1 yard yard 1 1/4yord 1 1/2yord “*Yarclage for tops is for long sleeve option less yardage may be needed for the other sleeve options ** More yardege may be required for matching prints or directional fabric Fabric Types: Suitable for cotton, linen, chambray, denim or other light to mid weight woven fabrics, Printing the Pattern: The pattern has been divided up so you don't have to print all of the pages but only the pages for the selected styles. Use the print guide below. For all styles print (cap sleeve included) For Mid Sleeve print For Long Sleeve print For Regular Back print For pleated back print 12-16 7 18-19 20-25 26-37wpe X \ Wrong Side and Jeums fo Sewing the Pattern. Fabric Sides: Fabric has a front and back side. The front side is called the right side, and the back is called the \ + Right Side SY wrong side. / For some fabrics there is no visible difference between sides. Carefully mark your pieces so you keep track. Right Sides Together: Place the fabric so the righf sides are face to face. Most seams will be sewn this way. Seam Allowance: The seam allowance is the amount of fabric between the edge of a piece and the sfitch line. Stitch Line : as For all Shwvin Designs patterns « 3/8" seam allowance is included in all the pieces unless otherwise noted in the instructions. Seam Allowance Seam Finishing: Finishing seams helps fo keep seams from unraveling =) during washing or wearing the garment. There are Zig Zag: several methods of finishing. Two standard methods Stitch are using a serger to finish the edge. Or sewing a zig SS} zag stitch down the edge with a regular sewing machine, Serge Clipping Corners or Curves: For sharp corners and smooth curves you will need to. clip. For the corners simply clip off the corner careful not to cut through stitches. For curves clip triangle notches out along the curve careful not to clip through your stitches.Cut 2 (reverse one): When a pattern piece needs to have both a left and right piece cut, you will be cutting 2 but have to opposite pieces. To do this simply place the fabric right (or wrong) sides together and then place the pattern piece and cut through both layers. This will result in one being reversed. Gathering: To gather sew two rows of a basting stitch. (longest stitch length) Then lift up the top hwo threads and pul gontly while pushing the fabric to create the gather. Doing Hwo rows helps to create an even gather. Grainline: The grainline marking on the pattern pieces show how the piece should be cut. Grainline in the fabric is the direction the fibers are running on the fabric. Typically fabric has two grains, up and down and side to side. Cutting fabric on grain helps your finished garment to lay best: Grainiine oe, Pattern Markings: Transfer pattein markings ke dots diamonds or triangles eo to your fabric They will help you to sew the pattern making sure everything matches up correctly._Sewing the Bodice All Styles | | Step 1: Sew 2 lines of a basting stitch along the top edge of the Front Skirt piece. “Tip use the longest stitch length and the lowest tension so it won't gather while you sew. Step 2: To gather the top edge simply pull the top two threads while pushing the fabric. “*2 rows of siitching help keep your gather even. Step 3: With right sides together sew the front bodice to the front skirt. To get the gather to be evenly _ spaced, match up the center of the Front B piece with the center of Front A and then gather from. both sides until the pieces fit together. Then sew the two pieces together. Finish seam as desired, Step 4: Press the seam allowance down toward the skirt piece. *Note I like fo press it down so ii blends into the gather. You may also press the seam up and top stitch it in place if you rather.Page 2 Step 5: With tight sides together, sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulders. Finish seams as desired. Step 6: Press the shoulder seam flat. Neckiine _ Sewing the Sleeves | Cap Sieve F Step: Press the bottom edge of the sleeve up by 1/4" and then again by 1/4” and press. **Do not sew it yet. Untold one fold. i Repeat with other sleeve. Step 2: 4 __ With tight sides together, sew the curve of the sleeve into the armscye of the bobice. Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and ease the sleeve into place. Repeat with other sleeve. Finish seams as desired. —*armscye is the arm curve shown labled in step 6Page 3 Step 3: With right sides together, match up the front and back side seams as well as the sleeve ends. Sew from the end of the sleeve to the arm pit and then tun and sew down the side. Finish seam as desired. Repeat with other side. Step 4: Refold the sleeve edge under and sew along the folded edge to hem sleeve. Sewing the Sleeves “Mid Sleeve and Long Sleeve F Step 1: With right sides together sew the sleeve curve into the armscye of the bodice. Match sleeve center with the shoulder seam and then ease the sleeve in place. Finish seam as desired. Repeat with other sleeve.page 4 Step 2: Press the bottom edge up by 1/4” and then again by 1" “Don't sew yet. Unfold one fold. Repeat with other sleeve P| Step 3: Match up the front and back, with right sides together. Sew from sleeve edge to the armpit and turn to go down the side. Finish seam as desired. Repeat with other side. Step 4: Refold the sleeve under and then sew along the folded edge to secure. Repeat with other sleeve. The mid sleeve can be folded back up for a faux cuff look. (optional) Sewing the Back Pleated Back Step 1: **important note the pleated back has two distinct pieces. They are designed so the over-layer stops in the center back and and the under-layer continues behind the under-layer. To make your pleats you will follow the pleat marks on the pattern and fold the fabric like a fon, so that the curve becomes smooth **See more pictures on the next page..Page 5 The photos above show the process of pleating along the curve. Fold the back piece at the first fold line, then fold it back at the second fold line making a pleat. Pin in place and then repeat for the other 2 pleats. Stay stitch along the top to secure. Finishing the Top All Styles Step 1: Turn the edge of the back and bottom under by 1/4” and then again by 1/4” and sew along the fold to secure. To get a smooth curved edge pull gently while turning the edge under until it’s smooth. “Optional finish with piping, lace or trim. For the Regular Back: Step 2: Overlap the back pieces so the curves match up and create a smooth line. Stay stitch along the curve to secure. For Pleated Back: When overlapping the back piece be sure that the back over piece lays on top of the back under piece. The edge of the back over piece will come to the center back. Stay stitch along the curve to secure.Page 6 Step 3: With right sicles together, sew the two facing pieces at the shoulders. Finish seam as desired. Step 4: Press the seam open flat. Finish the outside edge of the facing. q Step 5: With right sides together sew the facing to the neckline matching up the shoulder seams of the facing with the bodice. Clip the curves. Step 6: Tum the facing around to the inside. You can sew the facing in place along the neckline ar simply tack the facing down along the shoulder seams. Then you are done!Printing Guidexy" Grainline Front bodice Cut 1 on fold Fold Line All StylesGrass Ono Tor o| Sinha £ Sh = Cap Sleeve 3 Cut 2 on Fold Crass Omron Tor ShwinDesigns® AAA Front Skirt Piece Cut 1 on fold For All StylesFold Line =e SuluFold LineGrainline Crass Omon Vor ShwinDesigns? Mid Sleeve Cut 2 on fold Sul] plosxy" Zz \awere| | |Crass Omon Tor ‘A A Back Over Layer Pleated Back Cut 1 Grainline,ZW)L4ND Ig Psjos|q JaA07 JepUN ADH oSUSISO(TULMTTS JOT, MONG) SSWIED