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Fiber Formulas
Commonly used fibre formulas and reference guides used by the textile fibre industry.

Fiber Formulae
Name Micronaire value of cotton (Micrograms per inch) Denier (for man-made fibres) Micron (micro-metre) (m) (fibre diameter) (normally for Wool) Denier Micronaire Value Fibre diameter ( ) Tenacity values: Kg / mm2 Description Average weight of 1 inch of fibre in Micrograms (1/1000,000 gms) Weight in gms per 9000 metres of fibre 0.001 mm 0.354 x Micronaire value 2.824 x Denier 11.3 x ( dtex / sp.gr) = 11.9 x (den / sp.gr) 9 x (g/den) x Sp.gr. = RKM value x Sp.gr. = (g/tex) x Sp.gr.

Tenacity Conversion
Tenacity Conversions (Free Strength) g = gms g/den g/den 1 g/tex ( g/den ) x 9 g/tex ( g/tex ) / 9 1 ( g/tex ) / 10 g/dtex cN/tex

( g/dtex ) x 10 / 9 ( cN/tex ) x 0.113 ( g/dtex ) x 10 1 ( cN/tex ) x 1.02 ( cN/tex ) x 0.102

g/dtex ( g/den ) x 0.9

cN/tex ( g/den ) / 0.113 ( g/tex ) / 1.02 ( g/dtex ) / 0.102 1

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Spinning Formulas
Formulas used for yarn spinning production including various yarn numbering system conversions

Common Formulas
Grams per Meter Grams per Yard Tex Ne DRAFT DRAFT DRAFT 0.5905 / Ne 0.54 / Ne den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4 Nm/1.693 (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m) Tex (feed)/Tex(delivery) delivery roll surface speed/feed roll surface speed

No. of hanks delivered by m/c (Length delivered in m/min)/1.605grams per meter = 0.5905/Ne

Drawframe
Break draft Main draft Total draft surface speed of 2nd roller / surface speed of back roller surface speed of 1st roller / surface speed of 2nd( middle) roller surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller (0.2836 x L x effy x Nd) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / 8 hrs effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries

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(FRD x FRrpm x 3.14 x 60 x effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x 2.2045) FRD - front roller dia in inches Production in kgs / hr FRrpm - front roller rpm effy - efficiency Ne - Sliver hank Nd - number of deliveries

Winding
(0.2836 x L x effy x Nd) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / 8 hrs effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries ( L x 1.0936 x 60 x effy ) / (hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / hr effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound) 840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

Carding
( L x 1.0936 x 60 x effy ) / (hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) Production in kgs / hr L - delivery speed in m/min effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
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840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms (L x Ktex x 60 x effy) / ( 1000 ) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / hr Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex) effy - efficiency 1000- to convert to kilograms from grams (0.2836 x L x effy) / (Ne) Production in kgs / 8 hrs L - delivery speed in m/min effy - efficiency Ne - English count (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045) Production / 8 hrs Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine Nd = no of deliveries Ne = hank of the material Total draft in card (feed weight in g/m) / (sliver weight in g/m)

Speedframe & Ringframe

Spindle speed / FRS Twist / Inch (TPI) FRS - front roller surface speed in inches/mi FRS - Front roller surface speed FRS = FRrpm x 3.14 x FRD FRD - front roller diamete T.P.I T.M. x sqrt(count or hank)

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T.M. - Twist multiplier sqrt - square root (7.2 x SS x effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000) Production in kgs / 8 hrs SS - spindle speed Spindle speed Hank delivered m/min x TPI x 39.37 spindle speed / ( tpi x 62.89)

Ring traveller speed in m/sec (spindle speed x ring dia in mm x 3.14) / (60 x 1000)

Yarn Conversions
Various yarn numbering systems and conversion formulas and tables for easy reference

English/Metric Conversion Table: Length

Inch Yard Centimeter Meter Inch Yard 36 0.278 2.54 91.44 0.0254 0.9144 0.01

Centimeter 0.3937 0.011 Meter 39.37 1.094 100

English/Metric Conversion Table: Mass/Force

Ounce Ounce Pound 15.96772 Pound Gram Centi-Newton Newton 0.27802 4.44528

0.06237 28.3495 27.783 453.6 444.528

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Ounce Gram 0.0353

Pound 0.0022

Gram Centi-Newton Newton 0.98 0.0098 0.01 100

Centi-Newton 0.035904 0.002248 1.02 Newton 3.5904 0.2248 102

English/Metric Conversion Table: Saturated Steam Gauge Pressures

Pascal Kilo-Pascal Pounds per square inch Pascal(Pa) Kilo-Pascal(kPa) 1000 6.895 0.001 1.45 0.145

Pounds per square inch(Psi) 6895

English/Metric Conversion Table: Tenacity

gf/den gf/tex cN/tex Rkm gf/den gf/tex 0.111 cN/tex 0.113 1.02 Rkm 0.111 1 0.9807 9.015 8.838 9.015 0.9807 1 1.02

Count Conversion Table

tex tex dtex dtex/10 den den/9 Nm 1000/Nm NeC NeL

590.54/NeC 1653.5/NeL

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tex dtex tex*10 den tex*9 Nm 1000/tex

dtex

den den/0.9

Nm

NeC

NeL

10000/Nm 5905.4/NeC 16535/NeL 9000/Nm 5314.9/NeC 14882/NeL NeC*1.6934 NeL*0.6048 NeL/2.8

dtex*0.9 10000/dtex 9000/den

NeC 590.54/tex 5905.4/dtex 5314.9/den Nm*0.5905 NeL 1653.5/tex 16535/dtex 14882/den Nm*1.6535 NeC*2.8

Count Conversion Calculator

Size (convert from): Unit (convert from): Decimal Places:

System

Symbol

Value

Remarks

Direct Systems
tex deciTex kiloTex denier Linen (dry spun), Hemp, Jute Woollen (Aberdeen) Woollen (US grain) Tt dtex ktex Td Tj Ta 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 grams/kilometer grams/10 kilometer kilogram/kilometer grams/9'000 meters lb/14,400 yd (spindle) lb/14400 yd grains/20 yd

Indirect Systems
Asbestos (American)
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NaA

100 yd (cut)/lb

System Asbestos (English) Cotton (Bump Yarn) Cotton (English) Glass (UK & USA) Linen (Wet or Dry Spun) Metric Spun silk Typp Woollen (Alloa) Woollen (American Cut) Woollen (Americal run) Woollen (Dewsbury) Woollen (Galashiels) Woollen (Hawick) Woollen (Irish) Woollen (West of England) Woollen (Yorkshire) Woollen (Yorkshire) Worsted

Symbol NeA NB NeC NG NeL Nm Ns Nt Nal Nac Nar Nd Ng Nh Niw Nwe Ny Ny New 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Value 50 yd/lb yd/oz

Remarks

840 yd (hank)/lb 100 yd/lb 300 yd (lea)/lb kilometers/kg 840 yd/lb 1000 yd/lb 11'520 yd (spindle)/24 lb 300 yd/lb 100 yd/oz yd/oz 300 yd (cut) 24 oz 300 yd (cut)/26 oz yd/0.25 oz 320 yd (snap)/lb 256 yd (skein)/lb yd/drum 560 yd (hank)/lb

lb = pund(s), yd = yard(s), oz = ounce(s), kg = kilogram(s

Weaving Formulas
Commonly used weaving formulas and reference guides used for manufacturing woven fabrics

Count
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A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR The length per unit mass of Yarn. Expression of the fineness of Yarn.
There are three Systems to Calculate Count

1 Lea = 120 yd 7 Leas = 1 hank 1 Hank = 840 yds. or 768 meter

1. Indirect System 2. Direct System 3. Universal System 1. Indirect system

Total No. of hanks per one pound is the count of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x 840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirect system 10s or 10Ne. This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose, Polyester fibers and their blends. Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer

Count = Length in hanks(840 yards)/Weight in Pounds

2. Direct System

Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarn In this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D) Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser.
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Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn. In this system count is called as Tex Weight in Pounds Length in hanks (840 yards) Count = Commonly used other numbering systems
1. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in kg of yarn 2. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. of yarn. 3. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs. 4. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per pound 5. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound of yarn Conversion System

English (Ne) to Denier (D) - Denier = 5315 / Ne English (Ne) to Tex - Tex = 590.5 / Ne French (Nf) to English (Ne) - English (Ne) = Nf x 1.181

Twist per Inch or meter (TPI or TPM)

To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn. TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twist for weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns.

We calculate the twist as TPI or TPM. Twist is given in Z direction or S direction. If twist is given in CW direction it is Z twist. If it is given in CCW direction it is S twist.
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Single yarns are given Z twist and double yarns are given S twist. Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI

Conversions Factor
This page helps in determining the Various convertion factors whether it is for textile use or for common use.

Conversion factor for Textile Use

To Convert From Threads in Fabric: Number per inch Stitches in Fabric: Number per inch Mass per unit area: Ounce per sq. yard Gram per sq. metre Momme Twist Level Turns per inch Dimetre 1/1000 inch inch inch Cover Factor a. Woven cotton fabrics To Number per centimetre Multiply by 0.3937

Number per centimetre

0.3937

Gram per sq. metre Momme Ounce per sq. yard

33.906 0.23 0.128

Turns per metre

39.37

Micrometre millimetre centimetre

25.4 25.4 25.4 0.957

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To Convert From b.Weft knitted worsted fabric

To

Multiply by

1.172

Twist factor (or multiplier) 9.57

Gram force Pound Force Kilogram Force Tearing Strength Pound Force Tenacity Gram force per denier Bursting Pressure Pound force per sq.inch

Millinewton Newton Decanewton

9.81 4.45 0.98

Newton

4.45

Millinewton per Tex

88.3

Kilonewtons per square metre 6.89

Conversion factor for Textile Use

To Convert From Threads in Fabric: Number per inch Stitches in Fabric: Number per inch Mass per unit area: Ounce per sq. yard Gram per sq. metre To Number per centimetre Multiply by 0.3937

Number per centimetre Gram per sq. metre Momme Ounce per sq. yard

0.3937 33.906 0.23 0.128

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To Convert From Momme Twist Level Turns per inch Dimetre 1/1000 inch inch inch Cover Factor a. Woven cotton fabrics

To

Multiply by

Turns per metre

39.37

Micrometre millimetre centimetre

25.4 25.4 25.4

0.957

b.Weft knitted worsted fabric 1.172 Twist factor (or multiplier) 9.57

Gram force Pound Force Kilogram Force Tearing Strength Pound Force Tenacity Gram force per denier Bursting Pressure Pound force per sq.inch

Millinewton Newton Decanewton

9.81 4.45 0.98

Newton

4.45

Millinewton per Tex

88.3

Kilonewtons per square metre 6.89

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Weaving Calculations
A guide to calculations relating to yarn and cloth and all processes of weaving.It includes reed count, reed width, Maximum EPI for particular count, weave density, crimp percentage, cloth cover factor etc

Some important Weaving Calculations

1. Reed Count It is calculated in stock port system.No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count. Reed Count = EPI/(1 + Weft crimp %age) 2. Reed Width Reed Width = Cloth Width *(100+ weft crimp %age)/100 3. Crimp Percentage Crimp %age = {(Warp length - Cloth length)/Cloth Length}* 100 Crimp %age = {(Warp width - Cloth width)/Cloth width}* 100 4. Cloth Cover Factor

1.

2.

3. Cloth Cover Factor = Wp.C.F +Wt.C.F. - {(Wp.C.F. - Wt.C.F)/28}

5. Maximum EPI for particular count

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1. 2.

3. 4. other design = (Ends /Repeat * 1/Yarn Diametre)/ (No of intersections/repeat+ ends/repeat)

5. 6. Warp Density
o o

= <350
o

Weave Density = 50+{(Warp Density - 100) * F.D - 100} /{(Weft Density 100)* F.D - 100}

Effective Weave Density = W. D x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

Wp / filling - K Cotton = 1.00 Polyester/Cotton = 1.03

Loom Width - K 140 cm - 0.99 180 cm - 1.00

Weave Design - K Plain1/1 = 1.00 Twill 1/2 = 0.87 Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82 Drill 1/3 = 0.77 Satin 1/4 = 0.69

Viscose Filament = 1.17 190 cm - 1.01 Polyester Filament = 1.22 220 cm - 1.02 250 cm - 1.08 330 cm - 1.15 360 cm 1.20

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To change the count and the number of thread / inch , keeping the same denseness of fabric To change the count without altering the denseness of the fabric EPI in Exp.cloth = (EPI in exp.Cloth2/EPI in given cloth) * count in given cloth To change the EPI without altering the denseness of the fabric

Warp requirement to weave the cloth

o

Warp weight in grams /metre = {(Total Ends * 1.0936 * 453.59 * crimp %)/(840 * count)} * wastage %

Weft weight in grams /metre ={(R.S. in inches * 453.59 * PPI)/(840 * count)} * wastage % * crimp %

Cloth length in metres with given weft weight=( weft weight in kgs * weft count * 1848 * 0.9144)/(PPI * R.S in inches)

For silk and Polyester

o

Warp weight in grams /metre ={(Total Ends * count (Denier) )/9000} * wastage % * crimp %

Weft weight in grams /metre = {(R.S in inches * count(Denier)* PPI)/9000}* wastage % * crimp %

Allowance for count in bleached and Dyed fabric 1.Count becomes 4% 2. FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser Fabric Production Calculation
o o

Loom Speed = Motor RPM * (Motor Pully Diametre)/(Loom Pully Diametre) Loom Effeciency Percentage = (Actual Production/Calculated Production )* 100

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o

Moisture Regain Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Dried Yarn weight} * 100

Moistue Content Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Yarn weight} * 100 Type of Yarn Moisture Regain % Moisture Content % Cotton Jute Silk 8.50 13.75 11.00 7.83 12.10 9.91 9.91 14.50 3.78

Rayon, Viscose 11.00 Wool Nylon 17.00 4.20

Warp Weight in Kg = (Total Ends * Tape Length in metres)/(1693.6 * Warp Count)

Weft Weight in Kg = (R.S in centimetres * cloth length in metres * PPI )/(4301.14 * weft Count)

o o

Cloth weight in GSM = {EPI/Warp Cout)+(PPI/Weft count)}* 25.6 oz (ounce ) per sq. yard = GSM(Grams per sq. metre)/34

Material Measurement To calculate the length of any rolled fabrics, this formula gives the nearest accuracy. L = {0.0655(D-d)(D+d)}/t Where L = Length of material (Feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)

D = Outside diameter (inches) d = Inside diameter (inches)

Weight of yarn in a cloth The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in thewarp and weft: ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. Therefore,
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Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All inlbs.) Where as Weight of warp in lbs. = (Total No. of Ends * Tape Length in Yards)/(840 * warp yarn count) Also

FIBRE Micronaire value (cotton) -

Top

Micrograms/ inch. The average weight of one inch length of fiber, expressed in micrograms (0.000001g), which is approximately equivalent to, Micronaire Readings defined by A.S.T.M Denier(Man-made fiber) Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fiber Micron(wool) Fineness expressed as fiber diameter in microns Conversions Denier = 0.354 * micronaire value Micronaire value = 2.824 * Denier HVI SF = 50.01 - (0.766 * 2.5%SL) - (50%SL *81.48) Where SL is in inches (0.001mm).

YARN COUNTS (A) Indirect system English count (Ne)

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Number of 840 yards per pound. French count (Nf) Number of 1000 meters per kilogram. worsted count Number of 560 yards per pound. Woolen cut Scllnen Lea (wet spun) Number of 300 yards per pound. (B) Direct System Tex count Weight in grams per 1000 meters Weight in pounds per 14,400 yards (Spyndle) Denier Weight in grams per 9000 metres COUNT CONVERSION Calculator 1. English count= French count * 1.1810 Metric count * 0.5905 Worsted count * 0.6667 Wollen cut 8c Linen Lea * 0.3571 5905 * Tex count 5315 * Denier 17.14 * jute count 2. Metric count= English count * 1.693 Top

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French Count * 2.0 Worsted count * 1.129 Woolen cut 8c linen lea * 0.6047 1000 * Tex count 9000 * Denier 29.03 * Jute count 4. Tex count 590.5 * English count 500 * French count 1000 * Metric count 885.8 * worsted count 1654 * Wolen cut and linen lea 0.1111 * denier 34.45 * jute count 5. Denier 5315 * English count 4500 * French count 9000 * Metric count 7972 * worsted count 14880 * woolen cut and linen lea 9 * tex 310 * jute count UNITS CONVERSATION Calculator One Pound = 16.00 ounces One Kilogram =1000.0 grams Top

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= = = One Ounce = =

7000 grains 453.59 grains 0.4536 kilogram 437.50 grains 28.350 grains One gram

=2.2046 pound =35.274 ounces =15432.0 grains =1000.0 milligram =0.03527 ounces =15.432 grains

One grain

= = =

0.00229 0.0648 gram 64.8 milligram

One Milligram

=0.0154 grain

LINEAR MEASURES Calculator One yard = = = One Foot = = = = = 3.0 feet 36.0 inches 91.44 centimeters 0.9144 metre 0.3333 yards 12.0 inches 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meter One millimeter One inch One meter = 100.0 centimeter = 3.281 feet = 39.37 inches =1.0936 yards =0.0334 inches =0.0278 yard =0.0833 foot =25.4 milimeters =2.54 centimeters =0.0254 meter. TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY IN COTTON TEXTILE MILLS Department Relative Humidity % Top Temperature C (F)

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Min. Mixing Room Blow Room Card Frame Ring Frame Winding 60 50 50 53 60

Max. 65 55 55 58 65

Min. 27 (80) 27 (80) 27 (80) 30 (80) 27 (80) Top

Max 33 (92) 35 (95) 35 (95) 35 (95) 33 (92)

MIXING BLOWROOM 1. Cleaning efficiency percentage: (CE%) (Trash in mixing - Trash in Lap * 100) / Trash in mixing 2. Beating / inch Top

(Beater rpm * no. of arms) / (Feed roller rpm * (22/7) * Feed roll diameter in inch) EXAMPLE: (Beater speed = 800; Arms = 3; Feed roller rpm = 10; Feed roller diameter =2.5" Beats / inch = (800 * 30) / (10 * 3.14 * 2.5 ") = 30 Approx. 3. Standard pressure when spinning cotton and synthetic. Synthetic On rack heads On Calendar Roller Pulling Device 4. 300 Kg / cm2 3000Kg / cm2 130Kg / cm2 Cotton 300 Kg/cm2 2700 Kg /cm2 130 Kg / cm2

Expected standard efficiency % For Auto Doffing is 88 to 90% (Allowing for mixing change and cleaning)

5.

Lap Tolerance Limits = (Avg. Lap Wt. + - (2 * C.V %* Nominal Wt.))/ 100 Norms

Coefficient of variation of lap

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One yard Full Lap Wrapping

Good 0.70 1.2

Avg. 1.0 2.0

6. Norms of wrapping C.V Satisfactory values of % C.V. for wrapping in Preparatory & spinning Wrapping Blow room lap Card silver Finisher Drawing Sliver Inter Yarn up to 60 Ne Length in m 1 10 1 5 100 %C.V 1 2.0 0.85 1.5 1.2 1.5 3 3.5 2.2 3.3 U%

Yarn 60 Ne and above 100 Yarn up to 60 Ne (Strength CV) Yarn 60 Ne and above (Strength CV)

4.5

CARDING 1. Cleaning Efficiency (%)

Top

(( Trash in Lap - Trash in Silver) / Trash in Lap)*100 2. Twist inserted / inch in sliver (rpm of can plate ) / Surface speed of calendar Roller

DRAW FRAME 1. Roller setting for 3 Roller Drawing

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Front Zone = AFIS 5% Length 2. C.V of Sliver = C/ Sqrt N

Back zone = AFIS 5% + 4m.m.

C =C.V of creel sliver ; N = Number of slivers fed

SPEED FRAME 1 Coils per inch For Coarse Roving = T.P I * 10 For fine Roving =T.P I * 13 2 Thumb Rule for Layers / cm. =5.12 / sqrt (Roving hank)

YARN 1. Natural variation = CV % * 2 Let CV = 1.2 ; count = 30 (1.2 * 2 * 30 ) / 100 = 0.72 30 +- 0.72 Ne 2. Ring Yarns Single yarn strength in gram * 0.264 = lea strength of 120 yards in Lbs. Rotor Yarns (i) Cotton RKM = 0.00525 * CSP + 0.842 (ii) Cotton Blended RKM = 0.00537 * CSP + 0.943 (iii) Man Made RKM = 0.00561 * CSP + 1.079

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3. Coils / inch (yarn gap should be equal to half the diameter of yarn between coils) By Thumb Rule = 13.3 * sqrt (count) 4 General formula for tape Width Tape width = Face width of spindle Wharve - 4mm

consecutive

WINDING 1. 2. Yarn quality Factor = Clearing Efficiency / Knot factor

Top

Pre clearer Gauge at winding (carded yarn) 4.0 * yarn diameter Pre clearer Gauge at winding (combed yarn) 5 * yarn diameter

3.

Clearing Efficiency= 100 * (Total unwanted Faults Removed by Clearer) / ( Total Number of such faults Present in the yarn)

4. 5.

Knot Factor = ( Total number of Clearer cuts) / (Number of unwanted yarn faults removed) Normal Clearing Efficiency and knot Factor Type of Clearer Electronic Clearer CE 80-95 Knot Factor < 1.3

6.

Yarn Tension level (1 / 20) * single yarn Strength

DOUBLING 1. 2. 3. Total imperfection in Double yarn=0.170 * Total imperfection in single yarn Doubling yarn strength = Ring yarn strength * 2.5 Double yarn U% = Single yarn U% / sqrt ( No of yarns)

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4.

Doubling Tension weight in gram = ( Lea strength in Lb * 4) /15.4

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