UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA

COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

TEJGAON, DHAKA-1208
B.Sc. IN TEXTILE TECNOLOGY, EXAM-2008 Project Report On

Study On Weft Knitted Fabric faults and Remedies

SUPERVISING TEACHER: Prof. Mashud Ahmed
Principal of COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY,TEJGAON, DHAKA-1208

SUBMITTED BY: NAME EXAM.ROLL SESSSION A.S.M RAHAT KHAN 137 N 04-05

DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
College of Textile engineering & Technology has given us the opportunity to perform the project work. We obliged to Prof. Mashud Ahmed principal in charge our supervising teacher for his kind co-operation. We also thank Shah Allimuzzaman, Associate Professor and Head of

Fabric Manufacturing Department for his important advice. Heartfelt thanks goes to textile engineers of various industries (Reedisha knit tex Ltd, Epylion group , Matrix sweater industry,AKH,Mondol,Padma Polycotton) from whom we have collected samples. Above all we thank all the teachers of FMT Department for their kind inspiration and help, which remains as a backdrop of all of our efforts. Finally I would like to acknowledge that I remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors, which doubtlessly remain.

ABSTRACT
First we collected some defected fabric samples both from the circular knitting section , flat knitting section and wet processing section of different industries to commence our project work.then we also separate our collected Samples into three different sections so that we can analyse the collected fabrics very effectively and establish an acceptable result which will be enough to evaluate the grade of different fabrics and in further time it can help us to cary out further activities depending on the establish form of work. During our industrial attachment program we managed to see and collect different fabric samples and analyse them very effectively to find out and track the source of those problems and tried how to solve those problems. We have tried our best to give our complete effort on the kniited fabric defects which was caused by fabric manufacturing processes and wet processing processes.

TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS

No

Title
Introduction

Page No

Chapter-I

6-8

Chapter-II

Fabric Inspection

9-12

Chapter-III

Yarn processing faults

13-18

Chapter-IV

Weft Knitted fabric Fault due to Yarn & knitting fault

19-40

Chapter-V

Weft Knitted fabric Fault due to Dyeing & Finishing

41-55

Chapter-VI

Flat bed knitted Fabric Fault

56-64

Chapter-VII

Conclusion

65-67

Chapter-I
Introduction

Introduction:
Due to the increasing demand for quality knitted fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has become more aware of Non-quality problems. In order to avoid fabric rejection, knitting mills have to produce fabrics of high quality, constantly. Detection of faults during production of knitted fabric with circular knitting machine is crucial for improved quality and productivity. Any variation to the knitting process needs to be investigated and corrected. The high quality standard can be guaranteed by incorporating appropriate quality assurance. Industrial analysis indicate that product quality can be improved, and defect cost minimised, by monitoring of the circular knitting process.

Fine gauge knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often superimposed. They can be attributed not only to the knitting, but also to the quality of yarns, dyeing and finishing. Some faults can be easily avoided by respecting some fundamental pre-requisites on the circular knitting machine such as the use of positive yarn feeders and the respect of rigorous machine maintenance and cleaning schedule. Other faults are much more difficult to expect because they are not related to just one cause New generation circular knitting machines are conceived with auxiliary equipment that ensure less fabric faults during knitting such as filter creel, lint removal, thread survey, precise oiling and fabric faults detector devices. Nevertheless, some fabric faults are not detectable with these equipment and fabric has to be inspected after knitting. Fabric fault detector is able to detect holes and dropped stitches, but it is sometimes not enough reliable and have to be disconnected especially when a structured fabric is knitted because special fabric structures could be confused with faults by the sensor. Other faults cannot be detected during knitting but only after fabric relaxing or finishing such as fabric spirality and color mismatch.

Many researchers have applied computer vision to improve inspection method of human vision in textile products. In most of them, the image of a knitted garment had been considered to specify the fault features. Other works aimed to classify defects in knitted fabric by using image analysis and neural network algorithm or Fuzzy logic. All theses methods are not completely reliable because image analysis of knitted fabrics involves difficulties due to the loop structures and yarn hairiness, compared to woven fabrics consisting of neat warp and weft yarns. Knitted fabric faults can also be detected by inspecting yarn input tension and loop but only few types of faults are concerned by theses methods. Human inspection by using knitted fabric inspection machines remains today the most used way to classify faults after knitting and after finishing. Generally, faults are classified by type and by frequency in the inspected knitted roll. The inspection assessment permits to appreciate fabric quality. The judgement of fabric quality depend on faults tolerance levels fixed by each knitter and could be in some cases subjective because it is often based only on the number of faults and not on fault size and gravity

Our aim of this project is to study on weft knitted fabric fault. To do so we collect various faults from many industries and classify them in a systematic manner.
Faults in circular knitting production can be caused in various ways and quite a few of them cannot be just related to just one cause.The following explanations are expected to be helpful in trying to locate the causes of this faults easier.

Reasons of fabric faults:

1.Yarn manufacturing faults. 2.fabric manufacturing faults. 3.fabric processing faults-dyeing,printing,finishing faults.

Literature review:
The practice in the industry in assessment of hosiery yarn quality is on the lines with the established norms for weaving or for general understanding of yarn grade rather than anything specific to knitting.The purchase of yarn is based on the general parameters like count, U%, imperfections,strength and elongation and TPM. Most of the knitters test only the count for setting the GSM of the fabric.The knit structure and knitting process have got some specific requirements compared to the weaving.the knit fabrics and their process requirements are definitely much different from weaving. It has not been appreciated so far, may be due to lack of proper tools to assess them.

A number of demands placed today on knit yarns for flowless processing,must also be satisfied by yarns for weaving.But there are several properties,which have to be rated differently for knit yarns.The process of waxing,e.g, used to reduce the coefficient of friction of a knit yarn, is an important factor,wheares a weaving yarn is not waxed.in the last years the quality of raw metarials for jersey yarns has been to a large extent levelled.having a few exceptions (special qualities,single jersey,yarns for processing on very high gauge machines,etc) fleece topps with marino fineness are employed.Thus the quality standard of single jersey yarns is more or less uniform.

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There are some specific difference between woven and knit fabric.They are different in construction and their raw materials that is Yarn used in woven & knit also have technical difference. As a result the fault found in Yarn used for woven and knit fabric production are widely different from each other.

The main difference between woven & Knit yarn:

Woven Yarn
Have high twist High Strength Higher TM (4-4.5) Higher Elasticity Sized Yarn

Knit Yarn
Low twist Low strength Lower TM (3.5-3.8) Lower Elasticity Unsized Yarn

So we have seen that a lot of wide varities between woven and Knit yarn and also between their structure & manufacturing process so the fault in woven & knit fabric are also different. Here in this paper we tried to put light on Knitted part.

We tried to collect the previous works done by others. But we did not find any rich content in text books or in online sources. So we mainly depends on Various knit composite mills to collect sample & other related data

11

Chapter-II
Fabric inspection systems

12

There are mainly two systems of inspected fabric grading:

1. 4-point system (Approved by AAMA and AAQC) 2. 10-point system But these systems do not take shade variation, handle, biasi problems into consideration. Now these are shortly described below:-

1. 4-point system:
In this system fabric faults are identified with defect points in the scale of 4. i.e. maximum defect point is 4. According to this system, if the total defect point per 100 yard2 of fabric is 40 or more, the fabric will be rejected. But it may be changed according to buyers requirements. Now the pointing system is shown below:-

FABRIC DEFECT SIZE IN BOTH WARP AND WEFT DIRECTION Up to 3 More than 3 but less than 6 More than 6 but less than 9 More than 9

PENALTY POINTS 1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points

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For holes and openings the pointing system is as follows: SIZE OF HOLE Less than 1 More than 1 Knot(4 types) less than 3 Slubs- less than 3 Some general rules of this inspection are: i) Not one metre of clothe is penalised more than 4 point. ii) Any defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece is marked second. [Second is a cloth quality which implies that clothe contains minor defects. A trade discount of 8-15% is allowed in this category] iii) Combination of warp and weft defects running in one metre should not be penalised more than 4 points in them. iv) Cloth is inspected on face side only unless specified. PENALTY POINTS 2 points 4 points 1 point 1 point

2. 10-point system: In this system, the fabric faults are identified with points on the basis of the scale of 10, i.e. the maximum defect point is 10. According to this system, if the total defect point per 100 yard2 of fabric is 100 or more, the fabric will be rejected. In this system warp and weft direction faults are separately inspected and assigned defect points.

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WARP DEFECT Up to 1 From 1 to 5 From 5 to 10 From 10 to 36

PENALTY POINTS 1 point 3 points 5 points 10 points

In case of weftway defects the penalty points are shown below:WEFT DEFECT Up to 1 From 1 to 5 From 5 to full width Full width PENALTY POINTS 1 point 3 points 5 points 10 points

Some general rules of inspection are as below:i) Not one metre of cloth is penalised more than 10. ii) Any defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece is marked second. iii) Combination of warp and weft defect running in one metre should not be penalised more than 10 points in the metre iv) Cloth is inspected on face side only unless specified.

15

Chapter-III
Yarn processing faults

16

yarn processing faults

yarn unevenness/Irregularity:

the mass per unit length variation due to variation in fibre assembly is known as irregularity or unevenness.irregularities are seen in the yarn in the form of thic place,thin place,neps.

Irregularity in the yarn is reognised in one of the no. of ways: variation in linear density variation in thickness variation in twist variation in strengt

causes:
1. properties of raw metarials. 2. inherent shortcoming of machinery. 3. Mechanically defected machinery. 4. External causes.

17

For obtaining smooth curvature to loop and its uniformity the yarn should be uniform in thickness and imperfections should be minimum. The thin place in yarn receives more twist resulting in compact structure i.e. high torsional rigidity or sharp bends in loop while thick place receives less twist and forms a large curvature at loop. The coefficient of friction at thin places might be higher due to increased twist, which might be further aggravated by probable low wax pick-up. This variation in bending, twisting and surface friction can vary tension in yarn during loop formation. This would result in shift of loop forming point in knitting zone leading to variation in loop dimension. The shape of loop, obviously, has changed. Though yarn uniformity and imperfections can not be improved beyond a limit the twist flow in these zones might have the influence of various spinning parameters One would never be able to produce a pleasing knittied fabric out of a very uneven yarn.in spite of this it is possible that randomly distributed,faulty fluctuations luckily enough remain invisible, whereas relatively small fluctuations could lead to a defective fabric appearance with critical structures.

If short term uster unevenness of a jersey yarn ,Ne 21.5 is not much larger than 16%(U) or 20% (CV),one normally need not expect any problems. Uster evenness % (U %) for combed yarn (9.5%) is less than that of carded yarn (10.25%) because of the extraction of short fibres during the process of combing

18

 Dry yarn: Dry yarns does not have a required amount of moisture which will not facilitate the yarn to have enough extension during knitting process.

Causes:storage under extreme temperatures must be avoided under all

circumstances.at high temperatures the danger is present that paraffin migration becomes permanent.at low temperature it is likely that water of condensation builds up.one must avoid large temperature fluctuations as well as sun light falling in.

Remedies:
Yarn should be stored in rooms with at least 65% relative humidity (at 20%).This corresponds to a vapour content of 9 to 10 gm per kg dry air. The spinning and knitting plant should be air conditioned, so that the yarn does not dry up before it is processed. The introduction of air conditioning reduces the number of yarn breaks (holes) considerably and improves the surface structure of knitted fabric. a relative humidity of about 55% (+/-) 10% at a temperature of 22 degree Celsius or about 72% at a temperature of 20 degree Celsius.

19

 Unexpected high twist:

Twist in hosiery yarn should be less, a fact known to all technologists. Still in few cases one finds yarn of higher twist being preferred on the ground that it performs well in knitting in terms of lesser yarn breakages. That is true but the benefit is at the cost of fabric quality. Unlike woven fabrics knit structures are formed by bending the yarn into a loop and then interlacing them to create a fabric. The curvature of loop would be smooth and well defined if the bulkiness of the yarn is higher. The bulkiness eliminates sharp bending and improves resiliency of the structure, these fabrics are expected to stretch easily and recover during use. The very purpose of using low twist yarn is to achieve this smooth curvature to loops and high resiliency to fabric. Longer gauge lengths,

as practiced in industry, would provide information about averaged twist and CV% would be low. Where as for the type of fabric quality discussed here the gauge length should be less. This would provide information about the likely variation in loop shape and its dimension as a result of short term variation in yarn twist. However, the exact gauge length that is practically feasible needs to be investigated. The twist in yarn also has a role to play in the geometrical shape of the loop. When a loop is bent in third dimension for interlacement of loops the arms of the loop are twisted in opposite directions as shown in fig 1.

20

As a result the effective twist in each loop arm may change to the extent of 400 to 600 tpm (10 to 15 tpi) e.g. in a 20s cotton yarn (29.5 tex) of 3.6 TM (34 tpc.tex of TF) twisted in Z direction, or of 633 tpm (16tpi), would have a reduction in twist to the extent of 400 to 600 tpm (10 to 15 tpi) in left arm and an addition of the same amount in right arm of the loop. Such a great change in twist or strain in yarn at loop arms in association with strains experienced in the formation of loops would lead to deformation of loop shape.

This change in strain at loop arms would vary from loop to loop due to change in yarn characters, including variation in yarn friction of the type shown in fig 2. The basic yarn, therefore, should have minimum torsional rigidity to achieve good geometrical loop shape.

Figure:2(a) Low variation in yarn friction 21

Chapter-IV
Weft Knitted fabric Fault due to Yarn & knitting fault

22

List Of weft Knitted Fabric fault :

1)Barre 2)Spirality 3)Stain 4)Shrinkage 5)Pin Hole 6)Crake/ Hole 7)Snag 8)Slub 9)Thik & Thin Place 10)Bunching Up 11)Sinker Mark 12)Line Star 13)Waviness 14)Cloth Fall-Out 15)Drop Stitch 16)Tuck Or double stitch 17)Color Fly 18)Needle Mark 19)Vertical Stripe 20)Horizontal Stripe etc..

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BARR :
The noun "BARR" is defined by ASTM* as an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. In a warp knit, barr normally runs in the length direction, following the direction of yarn flow. Barr can be caused by physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences. A barr streak can be one course or end wide or it can be several - a "shadow band". Barr should not be confused with "warp streaks", which in woven fabric are narrow bands running lengthwise and are characterized by apparent differences in color from adjoining ends. Nor should it be confused with filling", a condition in which a filling yarn differing from the normal filling was accidentally inserted in the fabric.

CAUSES OF BARR
The varied and diverse causes of barr can generally be summed up in one word INCONSISTENCY. An inconsistency that leads to barr can originate in one or more of the following categories -raw material (fiber), yarn formation/supply, and fabric formation. Within these three categories, factors which may cause or contribute to barr are listed as follows:

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Raw Material Fiber :

1. Failure to control fiber diameter (micronaire or denier) from laydown to laydown. 2. Too high a C.V. of micronaire in the laydown for a given mill's opening line blending efficiency. 3. Failure to control the fiber color in the mix (grayness Rd, yellowness +b). 4. Most, if not all, fiber barr can be controlled by the above three items; however, under certain unusual circumstances it may be beneficial to select mixes using ultraviolet reflectance information for each bale of cotton

25

Yarn Formation/Supply
1. Variations in carding; i.e., different amounts of non-lint content removal from card to card. 2. Poor blending of fiber in opening through finisher drawing. 3. Running different types of spindle tapes on ring spinning frame. 4. All cots running on a given set of ring frames producing yarn for the same end use should be exactly the same. 5. Mixing yarns of different counts. 6. Mixing yarns from different spinning systems. 7. Mixing yarns with different blend levels. 8. Mixing yarns from different suppliers. 9. Mixing yarns with different twist level/twist direction. 10. Mixing yarns with different degrees of hairiness. 11. Mixing yarns with different amounts of wax. 12. Mercerization differences. 13. Excessive backwinding or abrasion during this process. 14. If yarns are conditioned, then each lot must be uniformly conditioned.

Knitting Machine:
1. Improper stitch length at a feed. 2. Improper tension at a feed. 3. Variation in fabric take-up from loose to tight. 4. Excessive lint build-up. 5. Variation in oil content. 6. Worn needles, which generally produce length direction streaks. 7. Uneven cylinder height needles (wavy barr). 8. Double feed end.

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PREVENTION OF BARR :
As outlined on the previous page, barr is caused by inconsistencies in materials, equipment, or processing. To prevent barr from occurring, consistency must be maintained through all phases of textile production. Stock yarns should be properly and carefully labeled to avoid mix-ups. Fugitive tints can be useful for accurate yarn segregation. Inventory should be controlled on a First In/First Out basis. All equipment should be properly maintained and periodically checked. Before beginning full scale production, sample dyeings can be done to check for barr. Salvaging a fabric lot with a barr problem may be possible through careful dye selection. Color differences can be masked by using shades with very low light reflectance (navy blue, black), or high light reflectance (light yellow, orange, or finished white). Dye suppliers should be able to offer assistance in this area. Also, if the cause of the barr is an uneven distribution of oil or wax, a more thorough preparation of the fabric prior to dyeing may result in more uniform dye coverage. With close cooperation between production and quality control personnel, barr problems can be successfully analyzed and solved.

Spirality:

The ever increasing demand of knitted apparels has attracted attention in global niche market. In comparison to woven garment, around 50% of the clothing needs are met by the knitted goods. It is well known that weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo certain dimensional change that causes distortion in which there is a tendency of the knitted loops to bend over, causing the wales to be at diagonal instead of perpendicular to the courses (Figure 1).

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In other words, spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. This is a very common problem in single jersey knits and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state and has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and functional performance of knitwear. However, it does not appear in interlock and rib knits because the wale on the face is counter balanced by a wale on the back.

Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted fabrics. Some of the practical problems arising out of the loop spirality in knitted garments are: displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched patterns and sewing difficulties. These problems are often corrected by finishing steps such as setting / treatment with resins, heat and steam, so that wale lines are perpendicular to the course lines. Such setting is often not stable, and after repeated washing cycles, skewing of the wales normally re-occurs.

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Causes of generation:
The residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending and twisting is the most important phenomenon contributing to spirality. The residual torque is shown by its twist liveliness. Hence the greater the twist liveliness, the greater is the spirality. Twist liveliness of yarn is affected by the twist factor or twist multiple. Besides the torque, spirality is also governed by fibre parameters, cross-section, yarn formation system, yarn geometry, knit structure and fabric finishing. Machine parameters do contribute to spirality. For instance, with multi-feeder circular knitting machines, course inclination will be more, thus exhibit spirality

Influencing factors:

1. Influence of yarn properties :

Count:

Degree of freedom of yarn movement in the fabric structure contributes significantly

to the increase in spirality. Dimensional parameters of fully relaxed single jersey fabrics depend on the yarn linear density and tightness of construction. If diameter is reduced, its resistance to deformation is lowered. It indicates that, deformation of loop structure is influenced by yarn count. In other words, the finer the yarn, the more will be the spirality due to more twisting.

Twist: Usually in knitting, low twisted yarns are used. High twisted yarn has a great impact
on spirality due to its unrelieved torque. With the increase in twist, the twist liveliness increases, this in turn, causes the angle of spirality to increase. The direction of spirality in the fabrics knitted from short staple ring spun single yarns is determined by the yarn twist direction. Thus, the technical face of single jersey fabric exhibits spirality in the Z direction if a Z twisted yarn is knitted.

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a) Yarn Twist Multiplier (TM): This index is represented by the following formula: TM = T.P.I. / N, where T.P.I. indicates twist per inch and N represents yarn number in an indirect system, the cotton system unless otherwise specified. With the increase in twist multiplier, the angle of spirality increases. (b) Yarn Twist Factor (TF): TF is related with the following formula: TF = TPCm x T, where T signifies yarn number in Tex. Raising the twist factor of two ply yarn increases the left hand or S-direction spirality, whereas increasing the twist factor of single yarn increases the right hand or Z-direction spirality.

Conditioning: The minimum Spirality level that can be achieved by several ways such as
storing yarn at appropriate temperature and relative humidity or by thermal conditioning with low temperature saturated steam in vacuum that results in a speedy relaxation. This process balances the twist so that it does not regain its original state. However, there is no systematic study carried out to understand the effect of yarn conditioning on spirality of single jersey fabrics.

Spinning method:

Yarn produced by different spinning technique has a direct

bearing on spirality of knitted fabric. Friction spun yarn made of 100% cotton produce fabrics with highest degree of spirality, followed by ring spun yarns. Both rotor spun and air jet yarns produce fabrics with a low degree of spirality.

30

Blend:

In general, 50/50 cotton/polyester blends have a lower tendency to produce

spirality in fabrics than the 100% cotton yarns. Spirality can be virtually eliminated by using 50/50 cotton/polyesters blend of air jet and rotor yarns.

2. Influence of fabric properties

Fabric stitch length:
increases with the length of loop. This is the length of one loop in knitted fabric. Spirality

Fabric structure:

More spirality in single jersey due to non-arrest of loops. By adding

moisture to such a structure, the twist will try to revert as it swells, that distorts the shape of the loop. In double jersey, the effect of spirality is nullified. Pique and honey comb also show spirality even if sometimes two beds are used. Spirality can be noticed in certain jacquard structures. In stripe pattern, it increases with the size. No appreciable problem of spirality is there in ribs and interlocks.

Fabric tightness:
tightness factor.

Slack fabric presents higher spirality angle compared to tightly knitted

fabrics. At each level of yarn twist factor, the degree of spirality decreases linearly with fabric

Fabric relaxation:

Fabric relaxation (dry and wet) treatment removes the residual

knitting tension in the yarn introduced during the knitting process. The relaxation treatment relieves the residual yarn torque as a result of changes in the molecular structure and increasing yarn mobility.

31

3. Influence of machine parameters

Number of feeders:

The number of feeders in a circular knitting machine also

influences the angle of spirality. Due to more course inclination, spirality will be more.

Direction of machine rotation: The direction of machine rotation has influence

on spirality. For Z twist yarns, the wales go to the right and thus, giving Z skew and S twist yarns makes the wales go to the left, giving S skew to the fabric. With multifeed machines, the fabric is created in helix, which gives rise to course inclination and consequently wale spirality. Direction of spirality depends on the rotational direction of the knitting machine. Earlier research work revealed that, for a clockwise rotating machine, the wale would be inclined towards the left, thus producing the S spirality.

Gauge:

In knitting terminology, number of needles per inch is called the gauge. Smaller

the gauge, lesser will be the spirality keeping other parameters constant. A proper combination of linear density and gauge is required to reduce spirality e.g. torque can be controlled in 20 gauge and 40s count.

Knitting tension:

The effects of various knitting tensions including the whole

process of loop formation on fabric spirality had been investigated by the researchers. Experimental investigation could not establish consistent trends with respect to variations in fabric quality with knitting tensions. The twist factors of ply and single yarn, loop length, and fiber diameter have significant effects on the angle of spirality, while yarn linear density and fabric tightness factor have comparatively lesser effect.

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Remedial measures:
Compacting:
Compaction reduces the length of the fabric based on its elongation

during processing which, in turn, reduces the width. It helps in controlling the shrinkage of the fabric. There are two types of compactors - open and tubular. In tubular compactor, the squeezing line gets on the sides in this process and is done on natural movement thus controlling spirality. If the wales are straightened manually then it results in spirality.

Resin treatment:

Cross-linking the fabric by means of inter fibre bonding also

reduces spirality. Resin in the form of aqueous solution is applied and set by passing the fabric through a high temperature stenter. This method is not recommended for cotton fabrics, since it weakens the cotton yarn.

Heat setting:

Steam or hot water setting reduces twist liveliness and hence spirality.

Mercerization is recommended for cotton yarns, so that fibres are made to relax permanently.

Balancing yarn twist factor: In an earlier investigation on plain knitted wool

fabrics, it was been revealed that raising the twist factor of a ply yarn increases the left-hand of S-direction spirality of fabrics. But while increasing the twist factor of a single yarn, there is decrease in left-hand of S-direction spirality with an increase in right-hand or Z-direction spirality. Thus, there is possibility to balance twist factors for both ply and single yarns with a view to achieve zero spirality. Experimental study by Chen, Q H on wool knits indicates that, when the ratio of twist factor of the ply yarn to the twist factor of single yarn is about 0.73, zero spirality may be achieved.

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Stains:
The knitting industry, unlike weaving, uses oil to lubricate machinery where the fabric is being produced. (i.e on needles themselves). Such oil mixed with dust and metallic powder can, cause stain on the fabric being knitted.

Minimise the stains:

1. Control of the oil itself, by applying it in minimum quantities and delivering it continuously, so that it present in the fabric but does not show up in any build up of soiled material. 2. Using oils that are readily mixed with water, so called scourable or clean oils. therefore, little oil staining will remain in finished fabric. -shaped garment,, tight control is needed as they are not wet finished, stains are dealt with during examination by solvent based spotting guns. 34

needles and where wet finishing is usual.

Shrinkage:
A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to specified conditions is known shrinkage. Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp increase during washing in case of cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn. Reduction in length and width of fabric induced by conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical treatment, wet processing as in laundering, in chemical practice and in literature the following terms have been used to describe the shrinkage which occurs in testing procedure: a) b) c) d) a) Relaxation shrinkage, Felting shrinkage, Compressive shrinkage, Residual shrinkage.

Relaxation shrinkage:
During manufactures fabrics and their component yarns are subjeceted to tension under varying conditions of temperature and moisture content, after manufacturing when the fabric is taken from the machine and keep on floor or store room, then the fabric tends to shrink, this type shrinkage is called relaxation shrinkage.

b) Felting shrinkage:
In case of wool fibers dimensional changes can be magnified by felting shrinkage. When untreated wool fibers are subjected to mechanical action in the presence of moisture. 35

c) Compressive shrinkage:
A process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length by compression. The process often referred to as controlled compressive shrinkage. d)

Residual shrinkage: after washing the fabric is shrunk. This type of

shrinkage is called residual shrinkage. Residual shrinkage is the main factor of garments industry

Causes:
i) Twist factor; twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be increases.

ii) Stitch length; stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be increases. iii) GSM; GSM increases so that shrinkage will be increases.

Remedies:
1) In order to maintain the weight at a lower shrinkage, a finer yarn is used. 2) In order to maintain the width, a larger dia knitting machine or a longer stitch length is necessary. 3) In order to maintain the same knitted tightness factor, or cover factor ( square root of tex divided by stitch length) with a finer yarn, a shorter average stitch length must be knitted. 4) Changes in yarn count and stitch length also change the stitch density which again changes the weight and the width for a given level of shrinkage. Changes in the tightness factor will change the extensibility of the fabric and will also affect the amount of spirality (fabric twisting) which may be developed.

Cracks or holes:
Local holes obtained when yarn breaks during loop formation. Local holes obtained when yarn breaks during loop formation. Holes are the results of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the yarn had already broken at region of needle hook. Depending on the knitted 36

structure, yarn count, machine gauge and course density, the holes has different sizes. The size can therefore only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.

Causes:
Presence of knot in yarn. Weak places in yarn . Yarn tension too high. Yarn too dry . Yarn - guide not properly set . Yarn guide block by yarn hair accumulation . Poorly lubricated yarns . Loose yarn end can slide out of the loops . Yarn take off uneven or dragging . Yarn feeder not properly set. Relation between cylinder & dial loop not correct.

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Solution:
Use of flat knots . Yarn regularity control . Yarn consumption & coulier re-adjustment . Precise yarn guide resetting . Air humidification . Use of yarn having lower hairiness , bobbins & yarn guide bloweing . Use of protective filter creel . Use of fabric fault detector.

Line star:
Cause: When needle latch is bent due to long time usage, then this problem occurred

Remedies: Needle must be changed

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Needle broken:
Cause:
1.Due to dirt deposuition in needle this problem occurred. 2.This problen also can occur due to yarn tension variation

Remedies:
1.Yarn tension hav to minimize. 2.Needle must be cleaned before production of any new fabric.

Thick & Thin

Its causes due to yarn problem.if thick & thin places remain in yarn & fabric is knitted with that yarn,then,this problem found in fabric.

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Color Fly:
Its consists of single fibre,bunch of fibre or yarn pieces in varying colors.

Remedies:
It is very difficult to remove. So need to be careful in process. Fly preventive cover can be used.

Pin hole

Cause:
1.Improper tension . 2.Same drive for both knit & tuck stitch. 3.curved needle latch.

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Remedies:
1.Different drive have to maintained. 2.Needle has to change.

Slub :
Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Remedies:
: By using Good quality yarn.

Drop stitches:
Causes:
Yarn guide not properly set. Defective needle latch. Yarn tension is not sufficient or too long stitches. Take- down too high. Cylinder dial distance too high . Wrong yarn threading.

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Solution:
Precise yarn guide resetting . Needle change. Yarn consumption & coulier re-adjustment . Take-down re-adjustment. Dial position re-adjustment. Yarn threading through the right bore. This fault can be corrected by stitches reforming using a simple needle. Use of fabric fault detector.

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Waviness: Cause:
This sturcture consist of plain & lacost design where stitch length for tuck stitch is kept same as all knit loops.As a result waviness has produced in lacost part.

Remeides: Different SL for tuck stitch must be kept by adjusting VDQ pulley.

Cloth fall-out : Causes:

Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder . Yarn package winding faults, poor package build up. Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders .

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:
Precise yarn guide resetting . Use of yarn having lower hairiness , bobbins & yarn guide bloweing . Use of fabric fault detector.

Sinker mark:
Cause: Sinker has to clean.

Remeides: When dirts deposite in sinker, it is raised & causes this fault.

Vertical stripe:
Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. the space between adjacent Wales is irregular and the closed appearance in the fabric is broken up in an unsightly manner, vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are the result of meagre setting i.e., the yarn count selected is too fine for the machine gauge or the stitch size(course density)is not correct. 44

Needles are bent, damaged, dont move uniformly smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently constructed.

Causes:
1. Defective needles and sinkers. 2. Twisted or bent needle hooks. 3. Stiff latches and needles. 4. Incorrect closing of hook by the latch. 5. Heavily running needles. 6. Damaged dial and cylinder. 7. Damaged needle latch and hooks. 8. Damages on other knitting elements like cam, sinker etc.

9.

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Solution: 1. Using precise knitting elements. 2. Correct lubrication of knitting elements. 3. Ensuring perfect opening and closing of needle hook while its movement through cam during raising and stitch formation. 4. Before installing a needle it to assured that the needles hook is not broken. 5. Ensuring the yarn count is perfect for the knitting machine gauge i.e., usually finer yarn should be used in m/c with higher gauge and vice versa. 6.needles and sinkers changed after being used for a long time. Checking needle detector. 7.use of fabric fault detector

Horizontal stripe :

Causes: Couliering & yarn consumption are not constant at all feeders. Deflector in dial cam brought into tuck position. Deflector not completely switched off. Needle can still grip the yarn & forms a tuck loop. Yarn feeder badly set. Differences in the yarn running in tension. Jerky impulse from fabric take- up.

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Solution: Yarn consumption & coulier re-adjustment . Take-down re-adjustment. Dial cam position re-adjustment. Use of fabric fault detector.

Bunching up : causes: Thick place in yarn. Fabric take up too weak.

Solution: Yarn regularity control . Take-down re-adjustment. Use of fabric fault detector.

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Snags:
Causes: Filament yarns can be tendency to snags. Rough surfaces on yarn guide elements, yarn feeder, needles, fabric take up . Fabric improper setting . Solution: Use of coarser count single filament count , lesser crimp elasticity and higher twist. Use of smooth surface on yarn guide elements, yarn feeder, needles, fabric take up . Fabric setting re-adjustment .

Tuck or double stitches :

Causes: Fabric take up is insufficient. The dial is set too high. The dial needles do not support the fabric, which is pulled up. The course density or couliering is not set correctly. The loops are too tight.

Solution: Take-down re-adjustment. Dial position re-adjustment. Yarn consumption & coulier re-adjustment . Use of fabric fault detector.

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Chapter-IV
Weft Knitted fabric fault due to finishing and dyeing

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Dyeing and Finishing Stage:

Bowing : Dead cotton on dyed cotton: Streakiness: Dark spots on dyed fabric Pilling of fabric Lower dye yield &tone change in some dyed shades: Dark and light selvedges: Specky dyeing: Patchy dyeing: Rope to rope uneven shade Pin Hole Uneven dyeing in a rope: Oil marks on fabric: Dye spots: Crease mark : Crack, rope and running marks:

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Fabric entanglements
causes: Overloading of fabric / uneven tube length Improper (low or very high) jet pressure, reduced nozzle aperture Foaming due to detergent, emulsifier, rapid decomposition of Peroxide, lubricant used during knitting or other surfactant chemicals causing foaming.

Remedies:
Adjust the jet pressure properly & calculate the weight of fabric to be loaded based on rope length/ diameter/ gsm of fabric Too high jet pressure also leads to entanglement at the reel & accumulation of fabric at rear side of the machine. Use of surfactants a very low foaming detergent having optimum adsorption & absorption for quick wetting, emulsificatio

Pin hole damage

Causes:
Oxidation of the knitting oil/lubricant on the fabric stored for a long duration. Presence of sharp metallic part in some parts of machine Presence of heavy metal ions in peroxide bath

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Remrdies: Check presence of any sharp object in machine Provide magnetic filters in water/ steam line Provide magnetic filters in water/ steam

Shade variation:
i. Variation within batch: In case of continuous dyeing, shade variation within batch is commonly found which is unavoidable.

Causes:
Larger pad size than which is required . Long batching is done in jigger. Salt addition is not proper. Dye liquor level difference in padder through in padding process.

Another type of fault within batch is listing effect which is actually the shade variation in withwise dyed fabric. This occurs due to52

 Improper padder presence in different zones of padder roller . worn out seqeeze roller in pad- bath.

ii.

Batch to batch shade variation: In exhaust dyeng batch to batch shade variation is occurred which is unavoidable.

The identical process conditions and identical products will produce an identical shade. If any one of the parameters are changed yu may experience problems in batch to batch reproducibility.

Causes:
The fabric has the equal dye affinity and if pretreatment e.g. scouring and bleaching has taken place in different machined . Liquor ratio change. In each batch, time of the fabric ropes passing through the nozzle is changed . Dyeing procedure is different for each batch. Temperature and added bulk chemicals changed. Low quality water especially PH, hardness and sodium carbonate content.

Remedies:
Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity and if pretreatment e.g. scouring and bleaching has taken place in different machined. If so, try to follow identical operation. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Adjusting the bath volume according to the material weight. Ensure that in each batch the fabric rope passes through the nozzle of the machine the same number of times during the accrual dyeing process. Use the same stand procedure for each batch. Make sure the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same and temperature un the process. Standards on your dyes and auxiliaries. If different combination dyes and chemicals are used there may be difference in shade. 53

Check your water supply daily, especially the PH, hardness and sodium carbonate content.

Crack, rope and running marks:

Running marks are frequently related to the material construction and are caused by poor opening of the fabric rope.

Causes:
Machine loading higher. Running at lower nozzle pressure. In correct process procedures. Lower fabric speed. High bath draining temperatures. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks.

Remedies:
Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure, or using the next largest available nozzle size, may also help . Either presetting or per- relaxation of he fabric before dyeing can avoid this problem. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect process procedures. A higher fabric speed, combined with slower rates of rinse and cooling will often correct the problem. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are high especially viscose blends are involved.

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Crease mark :
In knit dyeing crease mark is a common dyeing fault

Causes:
More cycle time . Faulty plaiting device . Slack on tight selvedge causes creases at an angle to each selvedge. Incorrectly set bowedexpander. Variation of heating and cooling rate. Improper fabric movement.

Remedy:
Anti- creasing agents are used to avoid crease mark problem.

Dye spots:
Causes:
These are most often caused by operators not correctly mixing and thoroughly dissolving the dyestuff, in the right amount of water. Dye bath hardness.

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 Not agitation of dyestuff.

Remedies: Passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, as it is added to the addition tank, will ensure that any large undissolved particles are removed. Use adequate amount sequestrate to lower bath hardness. Proper agitation.

Oil marks on fabric: Causes:

Inadequate emulsification/ removal of Knitting oil. Improper removal of Silicone oil from Elastane/ lycra blends

Remedies:
Use of a strong emulsifier for knitting oil removal like Tulachem Wettex SRL After every process, if possible check filter & clean it.

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Uneven dyeing in a rope:

Causes: Very rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. Uneven pretreatments (scouring, bleaching, desizing) Lack control of dyeing machine like machine speed Temperature Dosing time Circulation pump and reel speed Plating device M:L ratio

Remedies:
Check addition of dyes and chemicals at a steadily increasing rate. Proper pretreatments. Proper control of dyeing machine Check the rope turnover time. Verify rope speed and chambers loading calculations.

Rope to rope uneven shade:

The uniform colour and shade in all the ropes in a machine should not be the same. Causes: Mot equal rope length in each chamber. Not equal fabric flow speed in each nozzle. Remedies: Rope length in each chamber flow speed in each nozzles same.

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Patchy dyeing:
Causes: Uneven heat in jigger machine. Improper impregnation in pad trough. Dye migration in intermediate dyeing.

Remedies:
Steam pipe should run along the full width of machine. Proper padding mangle should be used.

Specky dyeing:
In continuous dyeing , specky dyeing faults are observed.

Causes:
Excessive foam in pad trough. Falling of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing. Insufficient after treatment. Remedies: Using of antifoaming agents. Water droplet should not fall on fabric. Dyes and chemicals should not be deposited on guide roller. Drops should be condensed in ager. Sufficient after treatment.

Dark and light selvedges: Causes:

Uneven batching in jigger machine. Prolonged batching in jigger during vat dyeing. Remedies: Correct jigger batch. Correct batch length in vat dyeing. adjust expander roller before padding.

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Pilling of fabric
Causes: Cotton quality [ short staple fiber] Abrasion during process with machine part Increased SG due to salt/alkali addition & hence even fabric surface to contacts increases the pilling Remedies: Use of suitable lubricant To minimize the dyeing cycle/ avoid re- dyeing

Lower dye yield &tone change in some dyed shades:

Causes: Oresece of residual peroxide on the fabric ,leads to oxidative decomposition of Reactive dyes. Presence of residual & core alkali.

Remedies:
Use of Enzymatic peroxide killer . Use of powerful core alkali neutralizer. Ensure controlled dosing of alkali

Streakiness:
Causes: Uneven absorption of dyestuff ,particularly for dyeing low/ high GSM Yarn parameters

Remedies: Use of suitable leveling agent Check unevenness in yarn

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Dark spots on dyed fabric

Causes: Using softeners having poor shear stability, cause spots due to breaking of emulsion Remedies: Use shear stable softener

Dead cotton on dyed cotton:

Causes:
poor quality cotton more abrasion during process Remedies: try to minimize the abrasion during process Use acid Cellulase softner.

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Yellowish:

Causes: Storage conditions core pH before drying Packing material used for white goods free from BHT [Butyl hydroxyl toluene]

Remedies: Storage condition should be free from atmospheric pollutants like oxides & humidity etc Packing material free from phenolic antioxidant White goods core pH should be 6.0-6.5

Lumpy feel:
Causes: Improper selection of softener & excessive dosages Remedies: Use of Hydrophilic mildly Cationic softener Use of Hydrophilic Silicone softener

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Loss of elastic properties in Cotton

Causes:
Improper processing method

Remedies:
Elastane are sensitive to highly acidic pH Avoid Chlorinated Bleaching High tension & excessive heating should be avoided in finishing Pretreatment sequence adopted should be - Relaxation- heat settingdemineralization- scouring-bleaching- dyeing- finishing- compacting

Bowing :

Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric width: in knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics

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Wrong Slitting:
Its causes due to operator carelessness.sometimes workers doesnt slit fabric through slitting mark. Operators have to slit fabric through slitting mark or fed fabric in slitting m/c in proper way so that m/c can slit fabric through slitting mark.

Lycra burn:
Due to improper heat set.

Heat set be done carefully.

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Chapter-V
Fault in V-bed knitted Fabric

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List of Fault in V-bed kniting m/c:

1. Pilling 2. Hole 3. Curling 4. Width variation 5. Loop missing marks 6. Wax mark.

7. Needle missing mark

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Needle missing mark

Causes: 1.because of partial opening of needle cap 2.deflection of need cam trick 3.dirty needle path 4.clogging with brush

Remedies: 1.clearing needle position 2.confirming the optimum opening of needle 3.clean needle path 4.replacing defective needle

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Hole
Causes: 1.broken latch 2.cam box deflection 3.broken needle butt 4.damaged needle

Remedies: 1.replacing broken & defective needle 2.confirming the opening of the needle 3.clean cam box

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Curling
Causes: 1.uneven tension on the take down 2.side needle deflection 3.uneven loop length

Remedies: 1.proper & even tension 2.optimum & clean opening of every needle

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Width variation
Causes:
1.uneven tension at different points of the body part 2.weight variation at the tensioning device 3.improper tension in take down 4.unequal loop lengths

Remedies:
1.using equal & proper weight on different parts of the body 2.weight variation should be neglected 3.proper take down mechanism so that every loops of equal lengt

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Loop missing marks

Causes: 1.improper running of cam box because of dirty needle trick 2.cam box deflection 3.uneven knock over of latch needle 4.uneven plies of yarn

Remedies:
1.prevent deflection of cam trick & cam box 2.relacing broken needle latch 3.prevent using dirty needle ca

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6.Wax mark.
Causes: To prevent the friction between cam box and needle trick,wax is been used in needle trich,during knitting this wax penetrate into the yarn of the fabric,whenever the finshed fabric is washed in hot liquor the wax is been molten and creates a wax mark on the fabric.the wax is also been used to increasing the pliability of the yarn.

Remedies:
1.Prevent using wax in cam trick & yarn 2.by using pliable yarn 3.ensure the smooth running of the cam trick & opening of needle

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7.Pilling
Causes: 1.using of different plies of yran 2,.excess tension 3.foreign fibres & materials

Remedies: 1.using same ply of yarns 2.prevent of flying of foreign fibres 3.Ensuring correct tension, tension should not too less or to high.

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Chapter-VII
Conclusion

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Conclusion:
Detection of faults during production of knitted fabric is crucial for improved quality and productivity. This paper will present and discuss the detection of faults and malfunctions during the production remedies of weft knitted fabric. The use of mechanical tension tracking device we can solve the most widely seen fault like barreness at every feeders. But few years back optical device for tracking these faults was introduced which can track these faults far more effectively then the mechanical sensors. But introduction of this optical sensors couldnt sort out the widely seen problem patta in the knitting production process cause it is created due to problem or breakage of yarn at every feeder . so tracking of YIT(yarn input tension) by the introduction of mechanical sensors at the feeding system of the circular knitting m/c is the only most effective way of solving the patta problem in the industrial area

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Bibliography:
# Fibre2Fashion.com # The Indian Textile journal # SaarcZone.com # Circular Knitting , By Meisenbach Bamberg # Understanding Textiles for a merchandiser,By Engr.Shah Alimuzzaman # Wood Head Publication. # Cotton Incorporated. # Incampus.com #scribd.com

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