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The soil becomes dead and unproductive as a result the production level
goes on decreasing. Organic farming in the form of vermicompost obtained
from the earthworms is one way to overcome the problems of low
productivity. The earthworms enhance the decomposition rate of organic
waste and improve the biological activities in the soil. The production of
vermicompost from any organic waste i.e. agricultural waste, city garbage,
industrial waste and sewage waste by using earthworms and its utilization in
agriculture is one of the most Economic ways in keeping the soils alive for
sustainable production/productivity. Earthworm population is required in
abundance for the production of vermicompost from organic waste. The
potential benefits of the vermicompost are as under:
It helps in protein production for stock food or even human food from organic
waste.
The compost is very dark in color and similar to farmyard manure in color
uses and appearance. Compost should be dark brown in color and has a fine
smell and should have 15-20 % moisture in it.
Our High Grade Vermicastings Contains large quantity of humus, which helps
soil particles to cluster, which create channels for the passage of air, water
and improve its holding capacity. So plant root get more pore space and
plants get more water holding capacity, so water requirements of the plant is
decreased. The result is root growth factor, plant germination rate, stem
diameter are markedly increased.
Humus consist more Humic acid and they bind plant nutrients but they also
release nutrients to the plants at the time of demand. Humus prevent the
harmful effects of plant, Pathogens , fungi and nematodes and unwanted
bacteria.
The soil containing Our High Grade Vermicastings has, N-5 times, phos –7
times, pota – 11 times, mg-2 times, cal-2 times higher than other field soil
and FYM (farm yard manure).
Micro organisms grow 100 times more in the field soil when it enriched with
Our High Grade Vermicastings . So the result is the micro organisms grow
more when Our High Grade Vermicastings are mixed with the soil.
Our High Grade Vermicastings absorb the moisture from open air at night
time and
maintain the moisture level of the soil at correct ratio. Calcium is present in
higher concentration in Our High Grade Vermicastings and it correct the ph
level of soil at correct ratio and also maintain the ph level of the soil at
correct ratio.
In Our High Grade Vermicastings micro organisms present 1000 times more
than that of field soil and these micro organisms give all kinds of nutrients to
the plants. So the nutrients available to the plants are increased and the
growth rate of the plants is much higher than their normal level.
Our High Grade Vermicastings do not burn and not burn the plant and has no
odour.
BENEFITS
BIOLOGICAL BENEFITS
CHEMICAL BENEFITS
Diversity of earthworm species varies with different types of soils and hence
choosing a local or native species of earthworm for the local soil and for
vermicomposting is an important step. There is no need to import
earthworms from elsewhere. Local species of earthworms that are generally
used in India are Perionyx excavatus and Lampito mauritii.
Handful? lumps of fresh cattle dung are then placed at random over the
vermibed. The compost pit is then layered to about 50 mm with dry leaves or
preferably chopped hay/straw. For the next 30 days the pit is kept moist by
watering it whenever necessary. The bed should neither be dry nor soggy.
The pit may then be covered with coconut or Palmyra leaves or an old jute
(gunny) bag to discourage birds. Plastic sheets on the bed are to be avoided
as they trap heat. After the first 30 days, as above, wet organic waste of
animal and/or plant origin from the kitchen or hotel or hostel or farm that has
been pre-digested is spread over it to a thickness of about 50 mm. This can
be repeated twice a week. All these organic wastes can be turned over or
mixed periodically with a pickaxe or a spade. Care should be taken not to
disturb the vermibed in which the worms live. Keep adding garbage till the
compost pit is nearly full. Continue to keep the pit moist for another 30 to 45
days, turning over the material in the pit with care avoiding injury to the
worms. Turning over can be done on every fifth or seventh day with the help
of a forked spade.
Regular watering should be done to keep the right amount of moisture in the
pits. In 60 to 90 days the compost should be ready as indicated by the
presence of earthworm castings (vermicompost) on the top of the bed.
The compost should be turned occasionally since this allows for aeration. If
the weather is very dry it should be dampened periodically. The pile should
be moist not wet and soggy.
Vermicompost can now be harvested from the bin/pit. The material should be
placed in a heap in the sun so that most of the worms move down to the cool
base of the heap. The compost is then sieved before being packed. . The
earthworms and the thicker material, which remains on top of the sieve, goes
back in the bin and the process starts again. Compost works best with a
mixture of coarse and fine materials, layered together.
An interesting fact is that it was Charles Darwin who was one of the first
persons who noted the importance of earthworms, more than a century ago.
These "creepy-crawly" creatures are the most useful gardeners. They break
down dead plant material and other organic wastes, recycle the nutrients,
and turn over the soil. You can collect earthworms from your neighbourhood
or get earthworms from nurseries. One can also contact the local agricultural
department, municipalities, and nurseries of the forest departments for
earthworms. Since earthworms are now becoming big business one can also
check in the firms/horticultures/nurseries, which deal in earthworms, but is
always desirable to collect them yourselves.
FOUR-TANK SYSTEM
To simplify the loading procedure for composting in rural sectors where the
availability of organic material is not in bulk, a four-tank system can be set
up based on a combination of biodung composting method and vermitech
technique that enables continuous compost production using cattle dung
produced daily at cattle sheds, weeds, leaf litter and other farm waste. A
tank 4m x 4m x 1m (l x b x h) is preferably made under shade of tree. This is
then divided into four equal parts with 22.5cm brick walls that have vents to
facilitate aeration as well as migration of earthworms from one tank to
another. This unit is designed especially for the small farmer who
approximately collects 20 to 30 kg of cattle or farm waste per day. The
schedule of loading the unit is described in the Table.
In the same manner two-tank system for household garbage or less quantity
of farm waste is recommended. This is a smaller tank 1m x 1m x 1m made
above ground under shade. The tank is divided into two equal halved units
vertically by a wall containing vents. An average family produces 250 to 500
gm of garbage that is added daily into one of the tanks. After a few days
when a layer is formed 15 to 20 cm dry/green leaves and a thin layer of soil
are made to cover it.
➢ A bin
➢ Biodegradable bedding
➢ Food waste
➢ Worms
BIN
For worm containers use wooden boxes, metal tubs and plastic basins,
provided they allow good air circulation. The worm container should be
shallow and not too deep, no more than 18 inches deep. To determine the
size of bin you need, you'll need to calculate how much food waste your
family creates in an average week. For example: If your household creates
an average of four pounds of food waste each week, a 2x2' bin should be
adequate. The bin should have the greatest surface area for proper air
circulation and for dumping more food waste. For proper air circulation drill
1/4" drainage holes through the bottom of your bin. For example for plastic,
drill 14-20 holes, 9-12 holes for a wooden container. Raise the bin up on
bricks or wooden blocks, and place a tray or a sheet of plastic underneath.
Put your bin in some comfortable place, and where worms won't be
subjected to extreme temperatures. Worms like temperatures ranging from
55-77° F.
BEDDING
Bedding giving worms a place to work and rest. It also helps hold moisture in
your box. Use light, fluffy biodegradable materials free from pesticides or
chemicals. For perfect bedding tear newspaper (without the colour comics
and glossy advertisements) into thin strips, the thinner the better. You can
also use shredded cardboard. Put some sand in to the bedding since it
contributes nutrients and grit to help worms digest food waste. Periodically
sprinkle small amounts of crushed eggshells or ground limestone, which is a
good source of calcium. Plan on 5 to 8 pounds of bedding for a 2'x2' box.
Place the bedding in a clean trashcan or other large container. Pour in three
pounds of water per pound of dry bedding, and mix well. Note that the
bedding should be uniformly damp, but not dripping wet. Toss in a handful of
soil, crushed eggshells, or other additives. Lift and fluff the bedding to aerate
then put it into the bin. Sprinkle the worms over the surface of the bedding,
gently untwining any wiggling clumps. Place a bright overhead light over the
bin and the worms will burrow down into the bedding. It is advisable to leave
a light on your worm box for the first three or four days. After a few days the
worms will settle down and do their best.
WORMS
The best worms for vermicomposting are red worms (Eisenia foetida or
Lumbricus rubellus). The red worm is capable of reproducing quickly in
captivity, while munching profuse quantities of food waste. If your bin is a
2x2' bin then use one pound of worms (1000 worms). You can buy worms
from garden centres or nurseries.
FOOD WASTE
Worms are not picky eaters; they will munch on just about anything. Give
your worms peels and other vegetable waste. However while giving them
banana waste don't put the peel because banana peel attracts fruit flies. You
can even toss in coffee filters and tea bags, but do take off the tea bag tag
and the little metal. You can also put plate scrapes, eggshells in the bin.
Things that are absolutely No-No are meat and bone, dog and cat litter,
plastic, glass, aluminium foil and other non-biodegradable items.
To feed the worms divide the bin in four sections. Bury scraps under a few
inches of bedding in the first section and cover it with loose plastic or
newspaper. After 4/5 days its time to feed the worms again and then fill the
scrapes in the second section. This way you can fill all the sections and you
don't have to dig into the waste. Remember red worms are voracious eaters
but your bin should not smell of bad odour. If that is the case then you have
added too much of food and the worms are finding it difficult to cope up. Stir
the bedding to aerate, cover the box and add no more food until the smell
hasn't gone. Worms are low-maintenance, and you can skip two or three
weeks without feeding them. Any longer than that, and you'll have a big box
of dead worms.
WORM HARVESTING
The method of harvesting is very simple. Put on your rubber gloves. Place a
large sheet of plastic on the floor or on a table. Pour the entire contents of
the bin onto the sheet. Shape the compost into cone-shaped mounds. Then
shine a bright light above the mounds; this will drive the worms toward the
bottom interior of each mound. Wait 5-10 minutes, and then gently scrape
off the layers of vermicompost until all you have left is worms. Put the worms
into a temporary storage container while you clean out the bin and fill it with
fresh bedding. You may see tiny, lemon-shaped cocoons; these contain baby
worms, so be sure to add them to the new bin. Bury food scraper for four
months and you will get a nice box full of vermicompost after leaving the bin
alone for three to four months.