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11FO ECU Board VTEC Conversion Kit

Item# 11FOVTECKIT MSRP: $19.95 YOUR price: $19.95 Availability: In Stock - Ships within 1 business day

This USDM '11F0' board type Non-VTEC to VTEC ECU Conversion kit contains the necessary components to properly convert your Non-VTEC ECU to VTEC. After the conversion, your ECU will be electronically equivalent to a factory P28 ECU. NOTE: You must also install a VTEC engine ROM into the ECU. (Will not operate VTEC engine with a non-VTEC engine ROM/Chip) To check that this is the correct VTEC conversion kit for your OBD1 ECU, unscrew to top cover of your ECU and make sure your ECU board number has '11F0' in it as pictured below:

How to Check and Clear a 1994 VTEC Solenoid


X By Michael Cohen, eHow Contributor, last updated October 06, 2011

In the 1994 VTEC, the solenoid is connected directly to the starter.

The 1994 VTEC engine was used in a number of Honda vehicles, including the Civic, the Prelude and the Del Sol. Known for its reliability and power, the 1994 VTEC is still prized among car enthusiasts. Although these engines generally wear well over time, one common failure point is the solenoid. If your 1994 Honda engine is having trouble starting, it's likely your solenoid could be stuck. Before you take your car into the shop for an expensive solenoid replacement, you can check and clear it yourself.
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Instructions
1.
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1
Turn your Honda's engine off and engage the parking brake.

2
Open the engine hood. Sponsored Links

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3
Locate the red, positive charge wire running from your car's battery. The end of the wire opposite the battery is connected to the solenoid. Disconnect the wire from the battery.

4
Attach a multimeter lead to both of the solenoid's external contacts.

5
Turn the key in your Honda's ignition while watching the multimeter. If the multimeter registers a complete connection, the solenoid is working properly. If the multimeter registers an open connection, the solenoid is jammed.

6
Tap the side of the solenoid with a small hammer if the multimeter registered an open connection. Tapping lightly can help loosen contacts or plungers, which might be sticking.

7
Turn the key again and watch the multimeter. If the connection is still registering as open, you need to bring your Honda to a qualified repair technician to replace the solenoid.

Inspecting valve clearances rear cylinder In order to be able to inspect the clearance on the VTEC valves you need to insert the slide-pin stopper tool (the round disc) in the slide pin holder which is located inside the valve lifter. Also, you need to remove the outer valve springs on the VTEC valves.

Make sure you have a clean place to put the valve lifters, springs and shims. Don't mix up any parts and keep them well organized. Start by removing the valve lifters (both VTEC and non-VTEC) from cylinder 1 and 3. You want to remove the non-VTEC valve lifters too at this point to check what size shim is installed in case you need to swap shims with any of the other cylinders. The benefit of using a magnetic pick-up tool to remove the valve lifters is that the small shim will also be removed at the same time and will not fall out and dissappear in the cylinder head. Whatever method you use, make sure that you don't drop the shim!!

Remove the VTEC outer springs from all four VTEC valves of cylinder 1 and 3 using the magnetic pickup too. Please note how the springs are inserted. They have a more tightly wound part which has to be inserted first (closer to the combustion chamber).

The slide pin stopper is located inside the VTEC valve lifter.

It can be removed using the magnetic pickup tool. It is a nice sliding fit so make sure you don't put any unnecessary force on it while inserting/removing it.

Measure the thickness of the VTEC valve lifter with a micrometer. It also has a thickness code engraved on the inside of the valve lifter. This one reads 2.866 mm and has the 2.87 mm code engraved.

On the non-VTEC side the small shim is stuck to the inside of the valve lifter if you used magnetic pickup tool. You can again use the tool to remove the shim from the lifter.

Measure the thickness of the shim with a micrometer or caliper and record record it for later reference. This shim is 1.855 mm thick and has the code 1.85 written on it.

Here are all the components from the rear cylinders (no. 1 and 3 cylinder): eight valve lifters, 4 VTEC outer springs, 4 shims for the non-VTEC valves and 4 VTEC slide pin holders.

While you are at it also measure the length of the springs with a caliper. They should be replaced if the are shorter than 53.2 mm (2.09 inch). All my springs measured between 53.4 and 54.0 mm.

If you have the micrometer, you can also check the outer diameter of all valve lifters. It should be at least 25.97 mm (1.022 inch). In my case all measured diameters were in the range from 25.980-25.985 mm.

Now insert the slide-pin stopper tool (disc) in the slide-pin holder and reinsert the slide-pin holder in the VTEC valve lifter. Reinstall the VTEC valve lifter in the cylinder head (without the outer springs). Also reinstall the shims and valve lifters on the non-VTEC valve side.

Need picture

Keep the springs well organized so that they can later be reinserted in the original locations.

Assuming that you didn't touch the crankshaft you should still be on TDC of cylinder 3. Now place both camshafts back in there original location and line up the RI mark on the rearintake-camshaft sprocket with the cylinder head. Use the RE mark on the rear-exhaust camshaft sprocket to line the back up with the cylinder head.

Now reinstall the four jointcollars and four new o-rings in their positions.

First reinstall the large bracket which gently pushes the camshafts in place. Apply some clean engine oil to all eight bolts and install new washers on bolts no.1-4. Gently tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern and make sure that the bracket seats itself properly. Finally, torque all 8 bolts to 12 N.m (if you didn't apply clean engine oil on the threads the torque can be very different).

Before you reinstall the small camshaft holder brackets make sure that the camshafts are reasonably well aligned with the bearing journals. If the are misalinged, simply push or pull them to the correct location. This facilitates installation of the remaining camshaft brackets.

Reinstall the two holders. Also apply clean engine oil to the threads of the bolts and make sure you install the correct bracket in the correct place. Torque the bolts to 12 N.m

Now you can start measuring the clearances of the no. 1 and 3 cylinders. Before you do that, remove the wire that was keeping the camshaft from falling in to the cylinder block and rotat the crankshaft a few full turns before you stop at TDC of cylinder 1. This is necesary to seat the components you just installed and to get accurate measurements on the valve clearances. Make sure you are at TDC of cylinder 1 and measure the clearance of each valve of cylinder 1 by inserting the feeler gauge between the camshaft lobe and the valve lifter. The correct reading is obtained when the feeler gauge can be move back and forth but some resistance is felt. It should be a 'sliding' fit. Repeat your measurements until you are confident that the clearance is measured correctly

Access to the inner valves is limited.

When you have completed the measurement on cylinder 1, turn the crankshaft 180 degrees clockwise so that you are at TDC of cylinder 3. Now you can measure the valves of cylinder 3.

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