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Knitting and Technical Textile

An introduction of knitting technology and its applications in Technical Textiles by Dr. Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Dec 9, 2012

Contents Knitting technology explanations Knitting types Warp and weft knitting Application of knitted fabrics in Technical Textile

Lecture 4

Knitting
A type of fabric formation by using loop insertion into other loop.

Weft Knitting
One major kind of knitting

Knitting

Weft knitting Only weft yarn is used to make loops, Needles and sinkers are used to make loops and insert loops Yarn is fed around right angle No yarn sheet is made Individual yarns are uses

Warp knitting Yarn sheet (warp ) is made Loops are made from warp and inserted along the warp length Needles are used to make loops and insert loops across the warp Warp knitted fabric is more rigid and many types are possible More share in Technical Textile

[1]

Weft Knitting
Most common More elastic fabric Used for general clothing Lot of variation in GSM and width is possible Available in flat and circular shape

Weft Knitting Loop Description [1]

Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or yarn into cloth. Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course. Knitting can be done either by hand, described below, or by machine. In practice, hand knitting is usually begun (or "cast on") by forming a base series of twisted loops

Knitting is a process in which one thread is

used to make loops and then newly formed loops are passed through previously formed loops and top and bottom loops are joined with the help of head and feet

Knitting Fundamentals
Basic Elements in knitting is Stitch or Course

Stitch Details

loop

Loop insertion through loop Joining of two loops Knitted fabric flexibility depends upon loop

structure

Loops have many shapes and types

Loop
An extended portion of a regular string Has no end It is part of main string Have balance shape Is made with the help of any tool which is

able to pull the string from a certain point

Loop Insertion
Loop is inserted through an other previously

held loop with the help of needle loop during insertion period

Needle should have the ability to hold fresh Needle is responsible to make new loops

and hold the previous sloop Loop insertion Animation Knitting Cycle

Knitting Classification
Based upon Knitting Procedure

Warp and Weft


Warp Knitting Weft Knitting

Warp Knitting
In this process yarn sheet is developed (warp

sheet) and then with the help of needles stitches are formed by insertion new loop into old loop.

Warp Knitting Machine

Warp Knitted Fabric

Weft Knitting
In weft knitting single yarn is fed to knitting needles. Needle with the help of cams, sinker make a new loop and passed it into previously held loops.

Types of Weft Knitting


Circular Knitting and Flat Knitting

Circular Knitting Machines


In circular knitting machines needles are

fixed on a cylinder or dial in a circular shape. yarn to needles at different places.

There are more than one feeders to feed In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or

dial) moves while feeders remain stationary. case of sock knitting machines it is changeable due to structure of socks

Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in

Circular Knitting Machine

Flat Knitting Machines


In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on

a straight plate. On this machine needle bed remains stationary while yarn feeding system called carriage moves from one end to other end bands and sweaters

This machine is used to knit collars, arm

Flat Knitting

Types of Circular Knitting Machines


Single Knitting Double Knitting

Single Knit Machine


In these machines needles are fixed on

cylinder and sinker are fixed on sinker ring. Needles knit with the help of sinkers.

Single Knit Machine

Double Knit Machine


In double knit machine needles are fixed on

dial as well as on cylinders. There is no sinkers on this machine. double jerseys

This machine is used to knit interlock, rib and

Double Knitting

Double Knit Fabric


Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly

flexible used for under garments. Front and back wales are exactly at same point but have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and waist band. Front and back wales are not at same point Double Jersey

Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible

Double side knitted, can have different designs on both sides

Interlock Machine

Double Knit Jacquard Knitting Machine

Types of Single Knitting Machines


Plain knitting Loop knitting

Single Knit Plain Knitting Machines


Mostly called jersey machines. On this

machines, there is a set of needles and sinkers. These machines may be single track of multi track. From one track to six track machines are available. comb, mini jacquard

These machine can knit jersey, pique, honey

Single Plain Knitting Machines


Single Track Multi Track

Single Track Single Knit


Track means number of cams vertically fitted In single track machine there is only one

track

This machine can knit only full knit fabric (single jersey)

Multi Track Knitting Machine


In this machine there are 2-6 tracks More number of tracks means that variety of

designs can be produced

On these machine many types of fabric can

be produced, like, pique, pique fleece, two thread fleece and mini jacquard

Loop Knitting Machines


In these machines we can make loop on

one or on both sides of fabric. weight and bulkiness of fabric

By introducing loops we can increase the

Types of Loop Knitting Machines


Terry Fleece

Terry Fabric
This fabric has loops on the surface, like

towel but the length of loops is smaller than towels. Normally used to make shirts of kids or for people working under high temperature to absorb the moisture

Terry Knitting Machine

Terry Knitting Machine

Single Jersey Double Face Fabric

Three Thread Knitting Machine


This machine is used to produce fleece

fabric. This fabric is plain from one side. Mostly front side is of single jersey and on back loop is inserted across various number of wales (normally two to three wales are covered). machine to make it more comfortable and bulky as well as warm top and course for back ( 30/16, 28/12 etc)

Back side is brushed with the help of raising

Two types of threads are used; fine for the

Three Thread Fleece Machine

Fleece Fabric

Striper
In stripe knitting machines we can produce

horizontal stripes with the help of scissors which cuts the yarn and a new yarn is fed

There are two types of: Mechanical Electronic Note: in current era there is no fresh

production of mechanical strip machines

Stripe Knitting Machine

Jacquard Knitting Machines


These machine are available in single and

double knit technology used.

Normally more than one colored yarns are Different patterns are made Normally 4-6 color machines are available

All types of machines can be converted into

jacquard machines

Jacquard Machines
Mechanical Jacquard Electronic Jacquard

Jacquard Fabric

Flat Knitting
Single bed Double bed

Full Garment Flat Knitting Machines


These are latest machines and are used to

make full length of garment

Quite expensive Not in Pakistan Required in countries where labour is

expensive

Gloves Knitting Machine

Gloves Knitting machines


In this machine bed rotates and carriage

moves from one side to other

Warp Knitting

Types of Flat Knitting


Raschel, made with latch needles, Tricot, using bearded needles.

Warp-Knitting
When producing warp-knits, a yarn sheet is

linked by stitches in longitudinal direction. Thus, each individual thread in the sheet (warp) forms a wale.

Warp Knitting
Main products Nets
Curtains Technical fabrics Covers Covering sheets

Working Principle
Warp sheet Loops development with the help of needles Loops insertion with the help of needles Needle movement controls mechanically

and electronically

Properties of Warp Knitted Fabric


More stable than knitted Big and small holes are possible Many designs are possible Highly course yarn can be used Technical fabric can be produced

Use of Warp Knitted Fabric


Use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters,

seat covers etc

Used as curtains, table covers Used as Chadar in Pakistan Not used for clothing

References

[1] Anand, S.C., Technical fabric structures 2. Knitted fabrics, in Handbook of Technical Textiles A.R. Horrocks, Anand, S. C., Editor 2000, Woodhead Publishing Ltd Cambridge.

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