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A A A A A A A A A A B 1 Center front 1x B 2 Side front 2x B 3 Center back 2x B 4 Side back 2x B 5 Front band 1x B 6 Back band 2x B 7 Center front skirt panel 1x B 8 Side front skirt panel 2x B 9 Center back skirt panel 2x B 10 Side back skirt panel 2x B 11 Center front (lace) 2x B 12 Sleeve (lace) 2x
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added: 114" (3 cm) for hem and 58" (1.5 cm) at all other seams and edges, except on the front edge of piece 11 and the lower edge of piece 12 (= scalloped edges) for view B. Transfer all pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and pattern markings to wrong side of fabric pieces using BURDA dress-maker's carbon paper. Follow instructions included with carbon paper. LINING Cut out lining using pattern pieces 1 to 6. = See cutting layouts on the pattern sheet. Seam and hem allowances must be added: 58" (1.5 cm) at all seams and edges. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces.
THE CUTTING LAYOUTS ARE ON THE PATTERN SHEET PREPARING PATTERN PIECES
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart: dresses, blouses, jackets, and coats according to your bust measurement and pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of inches (cm) that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the Burda chart.
SEWING
When sewing pieces together, right sides of fabric should be facing. Hand baste along pattern markings to make them visible on the right side of the fabric pieces.
AB DRESS
BODICE B Lace fabric
AB
Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size: for the DRESS, view A, pieces 1 to 10 and for the DRESS, view B, pieces 1 to 12.
1 Lay pieces 2, 3, and 4 of lace fabric on matching pieces of main fabric, with wrong side of lace facing right side of main fabric. Baste pieces together along all edges. Lay center front pieces of lace on center front piece of main fabric. The allowances on upper neck edge of main fabric piece extend past edges of lace pieces (arrows). Scalloped edges of lace pieces meet at center front. Baste together along outer edges (1a). Treat each lace/main fabric unit as one layer of fabric.
AB
Side front and side back seams
= Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same amount at the same lines.
How to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces: Cut pattern pieces along marked lines. To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary. To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out side edges.
Lay side front pieces on center front piece, right sides facing. Baste side front seams, matching seam numbers (1), and stitch. Stitch side back seams in same manner, matching seam numbers (2). Press all seams open. Attaching front and back bands
CUTTING
FOLD ( ) means: Here is the center of a pattern piece, but in no case a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting layout are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting layouts on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
3 Baste front band piece to bodice front, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (3), and stitch. Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward band.
Stitch back band pieces to bodice backs in same manner, matching seam numbers (4). Side seams Lay bodice backs on bodice front, right sides facing. Baste side seams, matching seam numbers (5) and matching horizontal seams. Stitch. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. LINING Sew bodice lining pieces together as described for bodice.
B
Fabric I and fabric II (lace fabric with two scalloped edges) Cut pieces 2 to 4, 11, and 12 from the lace fabric (fabric II). Pin pattern pieces 11 and 12 to the fabric so that the front edge of the center front piece and the lower edge of the sleeve lie on the scalloped edges of the fabric. Cut pieces 1 to 10 from fabric I. = See the cutting layouts on the pattern sheet.
A
Lining bodice Press allowances on shoulder edges of bodice lining to wrong side.
AB
When cutting from a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting layout extending over the fold of the fabric should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.
Lay lining on bodice, right sides facing, matching seams. Baste bodice and lining together along front and back neck edges and armhole edges. Stitch as basted. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Reach from below between outer fabric and lining and pull shoulders down, thereby turning bodice right side out. Topstitch lining close to neck and armhole edges as far as possible, thereby catching allowances (4a). Pin lining in bodice, wrong sides facing. Baste neck and armhole edges and press. 1-2
Pattern 7569
A
Shoulder seams
Lay bodice backs on bodice front, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (6) but not catching lining. Trim allowances diagonally across corners. Slide allowances under lining edges and press seams open.
Center back seam / Zipper (invisible) We used an invisible zipper. It is virtually invisible from the outer side of the dress. The zipper should be slightly longer than the slit. It is sewn in place before the seam below the zipper slit is closed. A special zipper foot is needed for this type of zipper. Turn lining up out of the way. Finish back slit edges.
Lay lining on bodice, right sides facing, matching seams. Baste neck edges together and stitch, making sure to not catch lace in seam on front neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press lining over neck edge. Topstitch lining close to neck edge, thereby catching allowances (7a). Turn lining to inside. Baste neck edge and press. Baste armhole edges together. Sleeves
Lay dress backs together, right sides facing. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to as close to slit mark as possible, turning zipper end out of the way. Tie-off ends of seam. Press seam open.
O Turn lining to inside again, turn edges under, and sew to zipper tapes and skirt attachment seam by hand.
Hem
A
Bow For the bow, cut grosgrain ribbon into 2 pieces, one piece 10" (25 cm) long and one piece 13" (33 cm) long. Finish ribbon ends.
To ease each sleeve cap, stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting from . to ..
Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (11). Finish seam allowances together and press to one side. Setting in Sleeves To ease each sleeve cap, slightly pull bobbin threads of machine basting. Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, 4 points are important for proper fit: = The seam marks (12) on sleeve and bodice front must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must match shoulder seam. The eased fullness must be distributed evenly so that no tucks form. Working from the sleeve side, baste sleeve to armhole edge and stitch. Trim seam allowances. Finish seam allowances together and press toward sleeve.
Q Lay each ribbon piece in a bow, overlapping ends at center back, 38" (1 cm) wide. Lay small bow on large bow and stitch together along center. R Pin bow to front band, matching centers. Pin brooch through
center of bow onto band. In addition, place, approx. 158" (4 cm) from each side edge. tack bow in
K Lay side front skirt panels on center front skirt panel, right sides facing. Baste side front seams, matching seam numbers (7), and stitch. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Stitch side back seams in same manner, matching seam numbers (8).
Side seams Lay skirt backs on skirt front, right sides facing. Baste side seams, matching seam numbers (9), and stitch. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Attaching skirt