Synthetic Grass DIY Installation Guide

[ Disclaimer ] Synthetic Lawn Installation Step 1.

Area layout, grass ordering and stripping the existing material

Using a rope or garden hose as your proposed border, layout the area in which you want to install your synthetic lawn. Try several different locations at different times of the day to be sure you choose the one that best suits your needs. Choose any design you like, but remember that synthetic turf arrives rectangular in shape and in approx 3.7m widths. This may also be the time to change the contour of your yard. Be sure to allow for drainage, run-off, wet or shady areas, etc... when laying out your yard. Only a small amount of water will drain through the grass as most of it will drain off like it would from pavers or a concrete slab. Ensure you order the correct amount of grass, backing tape and glue. Map out the area to scale on graph paper. (Remember the synthetic grass rolls are approx 3.7m wide). Map out the grass pieces you will need over your sketch to scale and make sure the grass is all laying in the same direction. For example if you have a piece left over that will fit into an area, the fibres of the grass on the roll will have a "direction" to them, and all the pieces must lay in the same direction as the rest of the grass. You are essentially working out how many lineal metres of grass you will need to cover your area. Remove all the vegetation and other debris down to the bare earth. Rotting grass today may cause unwanted dips tomorrow. Sprinklers may be capped or removed at this time. Synthetic Lawn Installation Step 2.
Installing a crusher dust base, compacting and optional edging

It is recommended that you install the synthetic turf on a compacted crusher dust base or on an existing concrete slab. Depending on your existing sub base, a minimum of 50mm of crusher dust (after compaction) is recommended. In sandy or clay conditions, you may wish to use a thicker base. If you are in doubt, please consult your local landscape yard or landscape architect for base materials recommended for your area. Care should be taken to choose a material that is free of large stones and should be graded and compacted to as smooth a finish as possible. The product should be composed primarily of crushed stone, with enough fine sand to assure compaction and stability. Be sure to compact the base several times and dampen the crusher dust prior to packing.

Plate compactors and additional tools can usually be hired by the day. Remember - your goal is to make the base as hard as possible. You should compact the base at least twice and dont forget to make sure you have enough fall on the base to allow water to drain.You may wish to install optional edging. Consider brick, decorative or natural stone, timber, flexible

plastic or metal edging. The top of the edging should be at the proposed finished elevation of the base to prevent trapping water. Synthetic Lawn Installation Step 3.
Lay out your Enduroturf synthetic lawn

Once the base work is completed, roll out the turf AWAY from the site and cut to length as needed 1 piece at a time. Make sure that where multiple pieces of turf are being used, they are laid with the pile pointing in the same direction. Cut turf to fit where necessary. This can be done with a sharp utility knife and a new blade. Cut the turf to fit around trees, flowerbeds and landscape islands, etc... If you change your mind at this point or make a mistake, don't worry. Simply use the seaming method described below to put turf together where you want it. In areas larger than 3.7m in width, where two pieces of synthetic turf must be seamed together, you will need to ensure you have ordered seaming tape and outdoor quality seaming glue. It should be noted that turf joined together using the correct method should look seamless. Once you have finished laying out your turf, step back and survey the landscape. Be sure your turf is in the right placement. If you find that your layout isn't right, change it now before commencing with the joining method described below. Synthetic Lawn Installation Step 3a.
Synthetic lawn seaming method

If a join is required butt both synthetic grass surfaces together ensuring the pile is running in the same direction, then fold back each side approx 30-40cm

along the length of the join. Unroll the join tape along the join line on the ground, ensuring equal tape on each section. Apply the adhesive along the joining tape approx 20cm width. Fold over one side of the artificial grass on to the join tape. Then start to fold over the second side, ensuring no tufts of grass are crushed under the join and keeping the join tight together. Once complete, it is a good idea to weigh down the join with bags of sand to ensure it sticks. Most glues should take in approx 30 minutes. Synthetic Lawn Installation Step 4.
Install the fill material

Now it's time to install the fill material. Different grass types require different infill levels, some lawn styles do not require rubber so check first. Your first job is to gently spread sand across the entire area. Typically this sand is thrown/sprinkled or lightly spread across the area as evenly as you can. You are aiming to infill approx 1/3 of the pile height with sand. After spreading with a shovel, you will need to broom against the grain to allow sand to fall between the blades of grass. Make sure you keep the grass fibres upright during this process. You will need a stiff bristled 'street' broom.

Take your time - Make sure you do not simply dump sand in any one spot as you will crush the grass fibres down and then getting the sand in and the turf back up is very challenging. This process will take 2 or 3 attempts to get levels right. DO NOT try to spread the sand all in one go. Once you have spread the sand to approx 1/3 of the height, it is now time to spread the rubber in the same method (if required)

Distribute rubber over a wide area and broom it in using the same method as above. Again, be sure to put down a little bit at a time as dumping out large quantities will flatten the turf. Continue to distribute rubber and fluff the lawn until the desired amount of fill is installed (around another 1/3 of the height). The fill you install today is going to compact somewhat with rain and use over time.

And that is it. You should now be the proud owner of the nicest lawn on the block.
What you will need to complete the job:
o o o o o o o o

@6kg dry sand per sq. metre Stanley knife with a NEW blade Shovel Rake Stiff-bristled street broom Spirit level Screed Wheelbarrow

Additional items you may need to complete the job:

o o

Enduroturf outdoor adhesive glue @6kg rubber granules per sq. metre

o o o o o

Seaming tape Plate compactor Turf cutter Dingo/mini dingo Skip bin

Synthetic Grass
Bunnings has a wide range of synthetic lawn available. It's a UV-stabilised product that's stain-resistant and non-rot. It can be laid over concrete, timber, metal or firmly packed earth. A great outdoor alternative - and best of all, it's very simple to lay!

Preparing the surface Remove all existing grass and weeds by scraping with a metal garden rake. Use a pick to dig out the tough weeds and any surface tree roots.

Clean up the edging Scrape away the existing ground to about 20mm below the finished height of any adjoining paved areas or garden edging.

Compacting the soil The subsoil should be dampened lightly with water before being compacted. Use a whacker packer or garden roller to do the job effectively.

Adding the roadbase Spread a layer of roadbase, or crusher dust, to about 15mm deep. Distribute it evenly with a steel rake then sprinkle with water before compacting with the whacker packer.

Laying the turf Fill any surface dips or hollows with fine sand. Lay out the first roll of turf, allowing overhang at the ends. This will later be trimmed to match the contour of the paving.

Cutting to size Trim the turf roughly around any garden edges and move it into position. Then use a utility knife, with a new blade, to trim accurately around the edges.

Laying the second roll Lay out the second roll of turf and trim to size. Fold back the edge and apply an even coat of adhesive, such as Dunlop Artificial Grass Adhesive, to the seaming material. Use a 3mm notched trowel for uniform coverage.

Invisible Seams Wait for the adhesive to become slightly stringy, then bring the two sheets together. Make sure there are no turf fibres trapped in the seam as you smooth the sides down.

Anchoring the turf Use 150mm irrigation pins around the perimeter of the turf, and space them throughout the area in a 600mm grid. Push fibres of turf away from under the pins so they sit flush with the surface.

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Casting the sand Cast a layer of dry, white, washed sand over the turf with a shovel. This weights the turf to keep it in position and assists with drainage.

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Sweeping in the sand Distribute the sand evenly with a yard broom, sweeping against the direction of turf fibres. Cast more sand and repeat the process until the sand is about 10mm deep. This is also the perfect time to practice your chipping!

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Forget watering Put away the watering can, as the natural-looking turf will stay this way for years. Just use a rake, broom or outdoor vacuum to keep it tidy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJSMQmoQJHU

No Worries Turf is affiliated and working in partnership with professional landscapers and gardeners who specialise in installation services. You are most welcome to utilise their expertise and services but if you decide to give it a go yourself then this is what you will need to do: PLANNING The area for turf installation should be clearly defined and marked, if necessary. In this planning stage, it should be noted which direction the turf rolls will be laid out. Always run the grain of the turf against any slope , if possible. Also, note the borders of the turf and determine which edging or curbing technique will be used. SYNTHETIC GRASS INSTALLATION Synthetic turf should be installed on a compacted base of fine crushed rock at least 50mm thick (more if in a sandy area). All joins should be attached using Joining tapes and adhesives. Importantly the turf should be in filled with a mixture of SILICA sand (not washed sand or brickies sand) and/or rubber granules to at least HALF WAY. Once installed properly you should not be able to pick up the turf. A solid compacted base is vital, but more importantly the correct amount of fill is vital. The fill not only helps keep the grass upright, but also protects it from UV. Sand fill on its own will compact over time and make the area very hard, and pure rubber will eventually wash away and leave no fill.
*Please note, a natural consequence of a roll of turf is the look of creases due to compression in packing and delivery. However, the creases will naturally straighten out after a few hot sunny days after laying the turf. To make it easier for you to install the turf, it is recommended to unroll the rolls and leave them unrolled for a couple of days, which will help the turf relax and straighten out. Furthermore, infill helps to secure the integrity of the strand.

1) Mark off the area that you will install with an outdoor spray can marker. Consider the dimensions of your Turf to try to get as few seams as possible with your layout.

2) Remove sod, you will need to remove approximately 50mm100mm of soil. Ideally, the sub base will be pitched slightly towards the best direction to allow for water drainage to run-off. Also, after the sub base and the Turf are installed, you will want to have the edges of the Turf at an even level with the natural landscape.

3) Cap Sprinklers. Turn off valves, compact existing ground to "firm it up fully" (you can rent a vibrating plate compactor at most rental centers). Spray weed/grass killer and place a weed barrier mesh down (not always necessary in all areas). 4) Sub-Base: It is very important to ensure the sub-base is completely dry before laying any crushed rock to reduce settling and ensure proper compaction for the surface. Once you confirm that the subbase is dry, add a top layer of crusher dust or a 5mm crushed rock (these types are best so you don't feel any protruding rocks when you walk on your Turf) ask your local garden supplier or nursery what material local landscapers use under paving bricks, etc. The purpose is to firm and level your base,

50mm -100mm of base is usually enough, although in some areas of the country where soil is especially unstable you may need up to 100150mm of base material; just ask a local expert like a nursery, landscape center, or rock yard if you are not sure. *** Please note if more than 75mm of base material is used, you will also need to increase the amount of soil removal. 5) Spread, and then compact the sub base material twice. Use the vibrating compactor again. 6) Finishing Sand layer (not always required if crushed rock is adequately smooth). Spread a fine layer of sand (approx. 25mm using just an ordinary seed drop spreader) on the surface to make it more level, bags of "play sand" are available at garden suppliers, some hardware

stores. You may also use a water-filled sod roller for an even more level surface. 7) Check surface for depressions. Any depression areas 10mm20mm or deeper should be filled-in and re-leveled. Although the turf also drains vertically through the drainage holes that are manufactured in the turf, it is still advisable to give the sub-base a slight slope, to avoid any pools of water (slope away from buildings). 8) Roll out Turf. Position the turf where it goes, be accurate (so you don't cut off turf you actually need). Note: Try to avoid dragging the turf as this may dislodge some crushed rock or sand. 9) Cut the turf. Cut off excess material so it's easier to work with. Always use a sharp blade in your utility knife! Make sure turf is still positioned where it goes.

Now, trim turf more exactly with straight lines. For optimal performance and beauty, make sure the turf is installed exactly over the prepared base. 10) Seaming. Where two pieces of turf come together you will need to make a seam. You can always pay a local synthetic grass installer or carpet layer to help you for a few hours with this process if it makes you feel more comfortable although it usually isn't necessary for most. The seams are simply glued together with outdoor turf adhesive and 150mm wide seaming tape. At the joining seam, a 150mm wide piece of seaming tape should be cut to the length of the seam. The turf is to be laid seam to seam the way that it should look to ensure it fits tightly together before it is glued. Note: The pattern of turf stitching

on the underside must run in the same direction before the two pieces are adhered. Both sides of the turf at the seam must be pulled back in order to install the seam tape. Note: Before adhering both pieces ensure that both edges have been properly trimmed, straight, and will match up perfectly. Lay the seam tape down on the base directly between the two pieces of turf that are to be joined. Apply gluing compound to the entire piece of seam tape with a notched trowel. Place one side of the turf in the middle of the tape (approximatel y 150mm) to the centre of the tape. Lay the other side of the turf over the middle of the seam tape to match up exactly to the turf that has just been adhered to the tape. Mesh the fibers together with fingers or brush. Note: Allow 24 hours for glue

to properly dry. The following procedures can be administered during the drying time, but turf may shift and require repositioning. 11) Infill Preparation. Once glue has dried, trim off turf so your lawn fits as desired. Next, it is a good idea to nail the perimeter every 500mm800mm with steel pegs (80-120mm length). In order to prepare to infill the turf, rake or power broom the turf in the opposite direction that the turf is laying on the roll. This will allow the infill material to infiltrate the turf rapidly and prevent turf blades from getting trapped in the infill. The infill process will now commence using a standard seed drop spreader with either sand or crumb rubber as an infill. The infill helps to weigh the turf down, and stabilize the fibers so as to help avoid

"matting". Most use sand infill as it is the least expensive compared to rubber infill. Of course rubber is more shock absorbent than sand, so choose what you can afford and prefer, although it is advisable to have at least the top half in rubber infill. You want to calculate the amount of infill in advance, as you will want to leave around 15mm of grass blade exposed. As a general rule of thumb, approximately .75 of a kilogram of sand equals around 10mm of infill height. Spread the infill in several passes. As you spread the infill you should make one entire pass on the surface then sweep it down into the fibers, repeating the process until all of your infill has been spread.

12) Optional Edging. Depending on your yard, you may want to install some type of edging material around your new lawn. Examples are natural stone, brick, rock borders, metal edging, plastic edging and timbers edging (similar to what is used around flower beds) are popular. Congratulati ons!!! The installation is complete!

Synthetic Grass Maintenance Compared to natural grass, artificial grass maintenance is a breeze. After installation has been completed, there are no more worries about mowing, weeding, fertilizing, or regular watering. Even still, synthetic grass is not entirely maintenance free. Artificial Grass Maintenance: Remove Debris Regularly Your synthetic grass should be kept as free from debris as possible. This includes leaves, animal waste, and smaller objects like discarded paper wrappers and branches. Inspect your lawn regularly for these objects. Remove them by hand or use a plastic garden rake. Never use a metal rake. It is also safe to use a leaf blower on synthetic grass. Artificial Grass Cleaning For homeowners who live in areas where it rains periodically, rainwater will usually be sufficient to remove dust and bits of soil from the synthetic grass. If desired, the area can also be hosed down periodically. Clean up after your pets by removing solid waste as you normally would. Wash off any remaining debris with a hose. However, if there has been no rain for a long time we suggest you prevent pet odours and dirt by spraying the turf with Simple Green or a ?green? household cleaner and thoroughly wash down the area with a hose. If there are stains that

cannot be removed with water alone, a mild detergent may be used. Gently wipe the surface until the stain is removed. Solvents or harsh chemicals should never be used to remove stains. Artificial Grass Maintenance: Considerations for High Traffic Areas Synthetic grass installed by a knowledgeable professional will be quite durable. However, it is important to keep a close eye on the areas of the lawn that receive the most traffic. Two problems in these areas are common. First, the fibers can become flattened over time. To remedy this, use a brush to return the fibers to their original position. Brush them in a number of different directions for a more natural look. Secondly, the infill under heavily-used sections can become compacted, resulting in noticeable depressions. To fix this, all that is needed is some infill and a stiff brush. Simply apply infill to the depression and work it in using the brush. Continue to add infill until the surface is once again uniform. Professional Artificial Grass Maintenance Removing debris, inspecting high traffic areas for depressions or flattened fibers, and artificial grass cleaning are all tasks that can quite easily be handled by the homeowner. However, there are times when it is advisable to call in a professional. If large portions of your synthetic grass lawn are flattened, it will likely be too time-consuming to fix this problem with a hand-held brush. Similarly, if your lawn requires major repairs, you would like to change its appearance, or you want additional synthetic grass installed, a professional is your best bet. ?Hard work never killed anybody, but why take a chance??,Unknown.

1. 2.

Measure the area. Frame the area with a 2"x4" edging. Leave a 1/8" space between edging and existing hardscape.

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Remove 2-3" of soil. Tamp.

3.

Install a base of either decomposed granite, road base, pea gravel, or a combo . Tamp.

It should be installed in such a way that there is a slight crown in the middle which ensures proper water run-off

4.
Lay a root barrier over the entire area.

5.
Place the turf down.

If needed, seam two or more sections of the turf together.

6.

Tuck the edges in the space between edging and hardscape .

7.

Install fill material (various sands, small rocks, stone dust and compounded earth) . These help keep your grass blades rooted and lifted

Full Installation or DIY Synthetic Grass Full Installatio n:

Lush Turf Solutions is your one stop shop for Synthetic Turf supply and installation. Our experienced installers will ensure your project is completed to our exacting standards. We will visit the site and measure the area in the most cost effective way to lay the Artificial Grass for a professional finish.

D.I.Y.

If you prefer to tackle the project yourself we are happy to supply the Synthetic Grass, Joining tape The images below will give you an idea of the installation process we supply more detailed instructi

Pick Up or Delivery?
We can arrange delivery nation wide or you can pick up from our Warehouse. Call us for a freight estimate. Pick ups from our warehouse require a few hours notice so we can have your Artificial Grass ready to go.

Site Preparati on
The method of site preparation depends on the surface on which the Artificial turf is to be laid. In most cases when installing the turf over concrete, pavers, tiles or timber there is no need for a crusher dust sub base. When laying over natural ground remove any existing vegetation and debris so you start with a clear site.

Levelling, Spreadin g& Compacti ng crusher dust

Ensure your levels are correct & create a slight fall to aid drainage. Crusher dust should be at least 50mm deep. Use a rake or spreader bar to spread the crusher dust as even as possible. Finally, compact the area using a Plate Compactor or roller until the crusher dust is evenly compacted forming a hard even base. A good indication that the crusher dust is well compacted is by leaving little or no footprint when walked on. Lightly dampening the crusher dust as you are compacting will help achieve this result.

Laying Artificial Grass

When laying Artificial Grass decide which way you want the pile to run and ensure all pieces are laid running in the same direction. Mark out the area and roll out the Artificial Turf. Make cuts using a stanley knife, (hook blades are best). Once in place anchor the bottom of the grass first and use a carpet kicker to flatten out any ripples before making final cuts around obsticles. Securing with galvanised pins around the edges every 600mm or so.

Joining & Gluing

Before applying glue create a dry join by butting the two pieces of synthetic rass against each other to ensure they line up. Next, put the joining tape underneath both pieces of synthetic turf so it is evenly spaced under both sides. It helps if you use a pin to secure the tape at both ends so it doesn't move when spreading the glue. Fold back each edge of the grass and using a brush or spreader apply a liberal amount of glue to the joining tape. Apply glue to the full length of the tape and allow the required time for tacking as per instructions on adhesive can. Fold the edges back to the centre so the grass forms a good join. If any glue spills onto the fibres clean with a cloth dampened with Methylated Spirits.

Maintenance

Now that your Synthetic Grass is securely laid, brush up the pile using a firm bristled brush. Try not to di adhesive manufacturers prior to brushing to ensure adhesion has settled. Remove any fallen leaves or oth plastic rake. An occasional brush now and then to spruce up the pile. Sit back and enjoy the benefits of lo years. \