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H hook or size needed Ior gauge.
Eyes (make 2): With black, ch 4, join with sl st to Iorm ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Finish oII. Rnd 2: Join white with sl st in any st. Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to beginning ch 3. Cut yarn, leaving 2 Ioot tail Ior sewing later. Do not weave ends yet.
Nose: Row 1: With black, leaving long starting tail - about 3 Ieet - Ior sewing later, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch Irom hook. Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 2 dc in same st. 2 dc in next st. Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st. Dc in next 4 sts. 2 dc in last st. Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st. Dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in last st. Cut yarn, leaving 3 Ioot tail Ior sewing later. Do not weave ends yet.
Muzzle: Special stitch: long dc - when making dc, draw up stitch about 50 taller than usual. The long dcs will cause the muzzle to be oval rather than round.
Note: Muzzle will not lay Ilat. We will be stuIIing it later when we join it to the bear's Iace. With muzzle color, ch 3, join with sl st to Iorm ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in next dc. 3 long dc in next st. 2 dc in each oI next 2 sts. 3 dc in next st. 2 dc in each oI next 2 sts. 3 long dc in next st. 2 dc in each oI next 3 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. (27 sts) Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st, 3 long dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each oI next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, 3 long dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each oI next 7 sts. Join with sl st to beginning ch 3. (35 sts) Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st. Sc in next 11 st. Holding top edge oI nose together with top edge oI muzzle, sc through both pieces in next 10 sts. Sc in muzzle only in next 13 sts. (35 sts) Join with sl st to beginning sc. Cut yarn, leaving a 3 Ioot tail Ior sewing later. Do not weave ends yet. AIter joining top oI nose to muzzle: Using long tail Irom top edge oI nose, sew down side oI nose, tacking nose to muzzle, with tip oI the nose at the center oI the muzzle. Stitch up the other side oI the nose. Finish oII. Using long tail Irom tip oI nose, sew a mouth Ior the bear. You can use a running stitch straight down Irom tip oI nose Ior two rows, then leIt along the curve between rounds 2 and 3 oI muz- zle Ior halI oI bear's smile. Reverse direction and Iill in the gaps back to the center oI mouth, then go right and back to center to complete smile, then straight up to tip oI nose again. Finish oII.
Head: This is an asymmetric granny square. It's made in a slightly unusual way to make one corner less pointed Ior top oI the bear's head. Rnd 1: Make ring around Iinger with yarn. Working in ring, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) 3 times. Join with sl st to beginning ch 3. Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 st, sl st in corner ch 1 sp. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. Dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp 2 times. Dc in next 3 st, 3 dc in corner sp, dc in next 3 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 7 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp) 2 times. Dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 4: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 9 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 9 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 5: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 13 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 12 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 12 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3.
(Continued on page 2) Bearghan Page 2 Rnd 6: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 17 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 15 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 7: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same cor- ner. (Dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 18 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 18 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 8: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 23 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 21 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 21 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 9: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same cor- ner. (Dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 24 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 24 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 10: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 29 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 26 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 26 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 11: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same corner. (Dc in next 33 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 27 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 27 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Rnd 12: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc in next 35 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 31 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 31 sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3. Finish oII. The two "square" sides oI square should measure about 12 inches. II necessary, you may add or delete rows to accomplish this.
Right ear: Join with sl st in 8th st to the leIt oI top oI head. Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 10 sts. (11 sts) Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc in next 3 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 2 sts. Decrease in last 2 sts. (9 sts) Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc in next st, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 2 sts. Decrease in last 2 sts. (6 sts) Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in last 2 sts. Finish oII. (4 sts) Left ear: Join with sl st in 18th st to the right oI top oI head. Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 10 sts. (11 sts) Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 3 sts. Decrease in last 2 sts. (9 sts) Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next st. Decrease in last 2 sts. (6 sts) Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in last 2 sts. Finish oII. (4 sts)
Underarms (make 2): You can Iind instructions Ior making a halI granny square here: http://crochet-mania-grannysquare.blogspot.com/2008/09/halI- granny-square-motiI.html Make as written, completing 6 rows.
Between legs: Make halI granny with 8 rows.
(Continued on page 3)
Bearghan Page 3 Body: Bearghan body can be made with twenty 6 inch squares or Iive 12 inch squares. Assemble squares as shown to Iorm bear's body, arms, legs, and head.
Add halI granny squares Ior underarms and between legs.
Add edging oI your choice to complete bearghan. For this bear- ghan, I used three rounds oI single crochet, plus one round oI single crochet alternating with picot stitches. The picot stitches give the bear a nice Iurry look. Increase and decrease as needed to keep edging smooth around corners.
Sew on eyes and muzzle, using photo as a guide. StuII muzzle lightly with polyIill as you sew it onto the Iace. Weave in any loose ends.
I have been asked many times by email which square patterns I used in creating the purple/blue/pink bear, so here's the answer! right hand - Pinwheel leIt hand - Cable Hearts right leg - Ad Astra leIt leg - Tilt-a-Whirl tummy - Eternal Braid
These Iree patterns by Chris Simon are all available at yarncrazy.com.