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Electronic Detonator
by Tetranitrate on July 7, 2006 Table of Contents License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: Electronic Detonator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 1: Parts list . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 2: Create the power supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 3: Building the detonator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 4: Making the hookup wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 5: Setting up the detonator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 2 3 4 5 6 7 7 7

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) Intro: Electronic Detonator

.................................................................................................................................................................................. This project describes how to build a simple, safe, and reliable electronic detonator. All the parts should total under 25$, and all but one of the parts can be bought at radio shack. This detonator includes numerous safety features such as a detachable power supply, an ARM switch, and an indicator light.

step 1: Parts list

What I like about this project, is that all the parts can be bought in one place, and the one part that couldnt be bought at Radio Shack had to be mail ordered anyway, so I wound up only making one trip. I include the model #'s when I could find them. Parts: 1. Project box (As close to 3x2x1.5 as you can get, remember you need enough room to hold the components but you want a good fit for your hand) 2. A momentary push switch (Model: 275-609) 3. Toggle Switch with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602) 4. 5mm Green LED (Model: 276-022) 5. 1/8" Mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (Model: 274-251) its a 3 pack see but you only need 1. 6. 1/4" mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (Catalog #: 274-252) 7. 1/8 Mono Phone Plug (Model: 274-286) 8. 2-Conductor Standard Phone Plug (Model: 274-1544) I think thats the one I got, Its got the picture on the website that most looks like mine, however, I'm sure any 1/4" mono (even stereo but then you'd have to pay closer attention to your wiring) plug would work. 9. Soldering Iron and solder 10. 2-Conductor Intercom Wire (Model: 278-857) Im pretty sure thats the wire I bought. 11. Heavy-Duty 9V Snap Connectors (Model: 270-324) Like the other packages it has more then you need 12. 8 AA Battery Holder (Model: 270-407) 13. 8-Pack AA Enercell Alkaline Batteries (Model: 23-874) 14. Slim Line 2" Alligator Clips (Model: 270-346) 15. Drill with assorted bits 16. Spare hookup wire (You can cut off some of the intercom wire if you need to) 17. Nichrome wire (Can either be bought on e-bay or Unitednuclear.com) make sure you don't get the wire too thick I use unitednuclear.com, but I don't know what gauge it is. 18. I'm assuming you have tools like screwdrivers and wire cutters.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

step 2: Create the power supply

Because this is one of the simplest steps I put it first. Steps: 1. Cut 2.5 feet off the end of the intercom wire. 2. Strip 1" off each end of each of the 2 wires. 3. Connect one of the stripped off ends of the wire to the 9v battery clip. You can connect the wires like I demonstrate in the crummily drawn diagram. 4. Snap the 9v battery clip onto the 8 AA holder. 5. Unscrew the 1/8" mono plug, slide the black plastic piece onto the other side of the 3ft section of intercom wire, connect the 2 stripped wire ends to the mono plug (make sure they dont touch each other, you can separate them with a piece of electrical tape), slide the black plastic piece over the connection you just made and screw it back onto the plug. 6. Put the batteries in their holder. When you are done you should have something that looks like the 3rd picture below.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

step 3: Building the detonator

This is the most complex step. It requires drilling into the plastic casing, screwing in all the pieces, and then wiring them. If you do not have scrap connection wire you can cut off another foot of the intercom wire and use that. For the wiring you can just wrap the wire around each connection, however if the wire wont stay or its too tight of a space to wrap it, you can use the soldering iron and a bit of solder to ensure a good connection. Use the picture for the best description of where everything should be placed on the box. And the "wiring diagram" for how to connect the wires, because its hard to tell where the wires should connect from the photos. I am going to refer to the 3 different faces (the ones we use) of the box as top, front, and bottom. In the photo the top is the one with the red push button, and the 1/4" socket. Before you start drilling open the case and take out anything inside (circuit boards, screws, ets). Steps: 1. Find a drill bit that matches up with the size of the 1/4" socket. (Remember that all the parts (button, switch, sockets) can be unscrewed. This is so you can push it in from one side, and then screw the other piece on the other side to tighten it to the case. When you choose a drill bit size for each different part, make sure you go by the size of the smallest part of the component that will be pushed through. It may sound confusing, but it should make more sense if you have the components in your hands) 2. Drill that size hole on the bottom of the case. 3. Repeat those steps for the rest of the components, with the switch and LED on the front side, and the push button and 1/4" jack on the top. Note: If you are right handed put the button on the top right side, left handed - top left side. This is so when you are holding it in your hand your thumb will be over the button 4. Now screw all the components in their places (if the LED dosent stay in the hole you can use a bit of glue, on the bottom side, to keep it there. 5. Wire it according to the diagram. Note: The push button is on the top left side in the diagram because the point of view is from the underside of the box. 6. The diagram is pretty self-exclamatory, the blue lines are the wire (duh), the blue blobs are where the wire joins with 2 other wires, and just one big NOTE: wire the LED LAST, before you wire it plug in the power and flip the switch to on, hold the wires to the led one way and then another, see the LED (should) only light up one way, and that is the way you should wire it. (This is because LED's are polarized meaning they will only work when they have current flow through them in 1 specific direction) When you are done, close the case, and go to the next step.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

Image Notes 1. Notice the nice glowing LED.

step 4: Making the hookup wire

This step is very simple and only takes a couple of minutes. Before you begin, decide how you want to store the wire, if you want to keep it wrapped around the spool or if you will just wrap it around the detonator. I just wrap it around the detonator, but it seems more authentic if you leave it on the spool. Steps: 1. If you are wrapping it around the detonator, just unravel all of the wire off the spool, strip an inch from both wires on each end, connect the 1/4" mono plug the same way as the other plug, and connect the alligator clips to the other end. 2. If you are keeping the wire on the spool, unravel all of it, strip an inch from both wires on each end, feed about a foot of the wire through the hole on the spool (As shown in the diagram) and out the hole in the top. Then wrap the long part of the wire around the spool and attatch the plug and the alligator clips (The plug goes on the foot long piece comming out of the top of the spool and the alligator clips go on the end of the wire wrapped around the spool) Now you are ready to set everything up.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

step 5: Setting up the detonator

Warning: Make sure the battery pack isnt plugged into the detonator until the end of the setup. Take an inch long piece of nichrome wire and tape it to whatever needs to be ignited. Connecting it to something to be ignited is a lot easier with a piece of my fuse, which can be made here http://www.instructables.com/id/E9ZBOE35P9EPA8KZXX/. If you use the fuse all you need to do is split a short section of the end of it and put the nichrome between the split strings, and tape it on, making sure that there is enough nichrome left to put the alligator clips on. If you do not use the fuse you need to make sure that the nichrome is touching what needs to be ignited. Unravel the wire until you feel you are a safe distance from what your igniting, plug the 1/4" plug in, make sure its unarmed (Toggle set to off), plug in the battery, arm it, countdown and push the red button. It should work, if not make sure all your connections are ok, clean the alligator clips and try again. If it still dosent work make sure you have a high enough gague of nichrome wire. It works because the detonator is basically an elaborate on/off switch keeping the 12v from the batteries from going over the nichrome until the right moment. Nichrome is a special type of wire that increases its resistance when electricity is passed through it, and because of this it is used mostly as a heating element in hairdryers and toasters. However, the heat it produces can also be used to ignite fireworks and other things as demonstrated in this project.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 153 comments
Jan 30, 2010. 4:22 PM REPLY

Rockertron1208 says:
will speaker cable work?

piromaniac998 says:
I got total of about $$36

Jan 23, 2010. 8:45 PM REPLY

afreeland says:

Jan 5, 2010. 11:05 PM REPLY Do you have to worry about polarity with the input plug? I have everything working properly (safety switch, LED, Push button, etc..) ....however, If I were to place a wire connecting both alligator clips it short circuits and turns off my LED and my voltage drops to zero, and nothing happens...is this because I soldered them incorrectly to the input plug? If anyone knows please reply, thanx =)

edwin25 says:
No resistor? I am searching for something like this but I belive the LED wont handle 9 volts it needs a detective.

Dec 2, 2009. 5:53 PM REPLY

dtydc says:

Jul 24, 2006. 8:38 PM REPLY Actually, nichrome is used in heating elements because of its resistence to oxidation, high resistivity, and high melting temperature, not because its resistivity increases. The resistivity of most (I hesitate to say 'all' because I don't know things) metals increases with temerature. This is because at higher temperatures there are more vacancies, and lattice vibrations (Wikipedia tells me lattice vibrations are also known as phonons) which decreases electron mobility. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacancy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lattice_vibration http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron_mobility

Mig Welder says:

hehe its called resistance not resistivity

Nov 22, 2009. 10:36 AM REPLY

adamz says:
Im 13 and i built 3 a mote controled detinator the best goes for 300 yards away.

Apr 29, 2007. 9:28 AM REPLY

Th3Ob3rst says:
Nice! why don't you post an instructable on it?

May 9, 2007. 10:44 AM REPLY

your dog says:

good job! mine is made from a mint tin.

Nov 14, 2009. 8:36 PM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

bl00dykillar says:
25 dollars my *ss it 45$ without the soldering iron and the solder and about 52 dollars with

Mar 28, 2009. 12:20 PM REPLY

lunchboxslayer27 says:
actually 35, but thats why you find similar parts online

Nov 11, 2009. 4:02 PM REPLY

lunchboxslayer27 says:
and dont buy batteries from the shack.

Nov 11, 2009. 4:02 PM REPLY

American Eagle says:

Maybe if your poor and don`t already have a soldering iron. Plus if you do, it doesn't cost 20$ for solder.

Oct 31, 2009. 4:08 PM REPLY

jq112 says:
i was just wondering instead of nichrome wire would Cuprothal work??? coz i cant get nichrome Cuprothal gets to 400 celcius

Oct 18, 2009. 2:32 AM REPLY

ajrc says:
great instructable! nice one! although, i'd always go with the cell phone detonator...wireless! :D ...and it used satellites, so you can be however far away.

Oct 8, 2009. 12:01 AM REPLY

V-Man737 says:
Now see here. Great box, BTW!

Sep 5, 2009. 3:18 PM REPLY

mr_goodbytes says:
awesome detonator! i have a simpler, more compact/handheld version you should check out http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Cool-Electronic-Detonator/

Jul 18, 2009. 5:23 PM REPLY

Apples says:

Aug 2, 2006. 1:17 PM REPLY you can tell which side the wires go to based on which wire on the LED is shorter(or which side is flat, they're on the same side) that's the side the negative input(black wire on batery clips) goes to

purpulhaze says:
How come no resistor for the LED?

Jul 3, 2009. 2:51 PM REPLY

Sparkythehappygirafe says:

Jul 3, 2009. 12:20 PM REPLY Is there a substitute for intercom wire? Btw does anyone think 8 AA batteries could power a miniature christmas light for a couple seconds (only 1 and its the really really small one that's usually wrapped around a christmas tree) or is that not possible. Anybody? lol

11richie21 says:
isnt this to set off a bomb?!

Jun 23, 2009. 12:56 PM REPLY

Jbs165 says:

Jun 20, 2009. 8:21 PM REPLY Cool. Right now im trying to build my own detonator but it isnt turning out so great. i have everything put together, i just need nichrome wire. It can light a fuse if i spark the wires but wont ignite with metal wool like everyone else says and claims. i am going to buy some nichrome wire and try that. but after i get that to work, i have to take i to the next step. i am going to try to create a device where i can set off 4 really big fireworks simultanusly. Got any good suggestions?

Jbs165 says:

Jun 20, 2009. 8:40 AM REPLY I really need help here~! I have 4 big fireworks that I want to set off simultanusly. What should I do to create something like this that i can set off each firework alone or like 2 seconds between each one. **NOTE|** These are big fireworks and if I'm near one when it goes off, well I'm not gonna do that, but my point is I can't just try and light all 4 with a BBQ lighter.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

PyroManiac96 says:
i..like..pyro..and this is awesome for igniting pyro thingies :P

Jun 14, 2008. 4:04 PM REPLY

twenglish1 says:
yah im right there with you, pyro's are the best

Jul 5, 2008. 12:40 AM REPLY

PyroManiac96 says:
Go pyros! i am working on my own detonator now that uses an internal 27v battery pack

Jul 29, 2008. 10:32 AM REPLY

lunchboxslayer27 says:
27v battery pack? omg!! those exist??? holy god!

Aug 31, 2008. 8:44 PM REPLY

twenglish1 says:
he probably has 3 9 volts in series but

Aug 31, 2008. 8:51 PM REPLY

henkow says:
Mine uses a car battery and iron rod. Works better for large scale detonations

Jun 9, 2009. 7:30 PM REPLY

twenglish1 says:
i dont know why "but" was at the end

Aug 31, 2008. 8:57 PM REPLY

lunchboxslayer27 says:
lol

Sep 1, 2008. 8:54 AM REPLY

PyroManiac96 says:

Sep 3, 2008. 4:08 PM REPLY yes it will not last long it is 3 9v in series i am working on making like 100 volts to make a death box of pyro :)

lunchboxslayer27 says:
sweet niblets!

Sep 3, 2008. 4:43 PM REPLY

PyroManiac96 says:
...you mean the corn brand? OK...*weirdo*

Sep 16, 2008. 7:08 PM REPLY

lunchboxslayer27 says:
corn.................................. hehe

Sep 17, 2008. 1:41 PM REPLY

mage says:
woo hoo!

Oct 28, 2008. 1:04 AM REPLY

twenglish1 says:

Sep 3, 2008. 4:27 PM REPLY what kind of detonators do you use for it to require so much power my detonators work off 5 volts

PyroManiac96 says:

Sep 16, 2008. 7:04 PM REPLY i just like high voltage :) i realized my error, so i rewired my nine volts to a parallel to get 3 times the amperage. its the amps that make things go boom. and by the way (no stealing my idea) i will post an ible on it i use those twistie-tie things wrapped over a match head with the ends stripped.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/

twenglish1 says:
cool i have been messing around with acetone peroxide

Jul 29, 2008. 11:35 AM REPLY

pyro man says:

do you really need the intercom wire,speaker wire,or nichrome wire,or can you use regular wire?

Jan 31, 2009. 10:55 AM REPLY

henkow says:

Jun 9, 2009. 7:27 PM REPLY Nichrome wire you definately need. When you put electricity through it the little dwarves light fires inside it and it gets really hot. Thats whats setting off your charge. Although if you use plastic explosive then you do not need nichrome wire, just jam the alligator clips in to it, tho dont expect to get them back. Infact if you want to use plastic explosive, use a wireless detonator and stand back properly. Unless you kno what your doing its hard to estimate the blast radius

pyro man says:

oops! acedentilly put speaker wire in there.ignore that

Jan 31, 2009. 9:38 PM REPLY

Sagar Gondaliya says:

Jan 11, 2009. 4:38 PM REPLY it would be more energy efficient and faster if you hooked up a 12v dc adapter to the mono plug. You wouldn't have to keep spending money on batteries if you're like me and would use it a lot. Thnx, I modified mine to be wireless.

razorfighter says:
how did you make it wireless?? could you send me the plans on how to do that please?

Feb 1, 2009. 10:09 AM REPLY

Sagar Gondaliya says:

you have to hack a wireless mouse nd the usb hookup to the detonater to make it work. when you click.......BOOM!!!

Feb 4, 2009. 10:32 AM REPLY

wibrle says:
That would be awesome. Do you have the link or website for that build?

Apr 28, 2009. 10:06 AM REPLY

coolsciencetech says:
What are you people even going to use this for? All I can think of using this for would be for model rockets and fireworks...

Apr 3, 2009. 5:00 PM REPLY

feigned-echo says:
can a spark arc between the two aligator clips, i want to use this as a potato cannon lighter.

Aug 29, 2007. 10:17 PM REPLY

pyro man says:

Jan 31, 2009. 11:03 AM REPLY whats funny is that while there are a lot of replys to your comment,none of them actually answer your question,including this one

that one guy says:

Wouldn't it be better to use a BBQ lighter? that way you wouldn't need batteries.

Dec 1, 2007. 8:39 PM REPLY

view all 153 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electronic-Detonator/