Apparel quality management

Hazardous Chemical in Textiles

By:
Kartik Singh Sudhanshu Singh Vipul Bhatia Yogesh Kadian

Global regulatory requirements on harmful substances in apparel - Canada Hazardous Products Act - Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA) - EU (REACH) - Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - OEKO-TEX Standard 100 - US regulations - China (GB18401 2010) - Korea Certification (KC) - Japanese regulation - Regulations in Vietnam Important test methods to evaluate restricted substances in apparel - Lead content in surface coating - Lead content in substrate (metal) - Lead content in substrate (non-metal) - Cadmium in coated/plastic items - Evaluation of phthalates - Nickel release test: BS EN 1811 and BS EN 12472 - Test method for formaldehyde - Test method of azo dyes - Test method of azo dyes (polyester fabric)

Five common toxic chemicals: Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) are industrial chemicals widely used as nonionic surfactants in industrial applications and consumer products. They are found in detergents, cleaning products, cosmetics, cleaners and paints, to name just a few. Research commissioned by Greenpeace International found NPE residues in many clothing items sold by major clothing brands such as H&M, Adidas, Ralph Lauren and Nike. NPEs washed off from these clothing degrade into nonylphenols (NPs) and end up in drinking water system around the world. NPs have the ability to mimic natural oestrogen hormones, are toxic to aquatic lives and degrade slowly in the environment. Following the pressure by Greenpeace, a few major brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma have since pledged to eliminate all hazardous chemicals from their supply chains by 2020. Many more, however, remained indifferent. 2. Formaldehyde Anti-wrinkle shirtsWhat Is This? This highly toxic and colorless chemical used for preserving corpses and building furniture and homes is, unfortunately, also widely used

in the textile and clothing industries. Resins made from formaldehyde give fabrics a crisp, wrinkle-free finish and prevent mildew from forming. Found in clothes, bedsheets, pillow cases and curtains, the chemical can trigger allergic reactions and/or contact dermatitis such as eczema, itching and rashes in sensitive individuals. Formaldehyde is a known cancer-causing agent and the long-term effects of cumulative exposure to multiple low formaldehyde-emitting sources such as clothing and furniture made with pressed wood is currently unknown. If you think washing is enough to reduce the levels of formaldehyde in your clothes, think again. Washing, wear and tear, high temperature and humidity degrade the resins on the fabric and allow more formaldehyde to be released over time. 3. Flame Retardant Flame retardant chemicals are added to childrens products such as pajamas, Halloween costumes, strollers and car seats to protect our young ones. However, looking at the chemicals that have been used in the past, one cannot help questioning whether these chemicals pose a bigger health and environmental risk than the fires they are trying to fend off. Previous fire retardant chemicals, for instance polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs), have been proved to be highly toxic to humans and wildlife. PCBs and PBDEs are known endocrine disruptors which refer to chemicals that are capable of disrupting hormones in the body. In sufficient doses, PCBs have been demonstrated to cause cancer in lab animals, while PBDEs are shown to be particularly toxic to developing brains. Both toxins are persistent pollutants that accumulate in living tissues, blood and the environment. Despite declining use of the chemicals, detectable levels of them can still be found in the environment today. Chlorinated Tris, a replacement flame retardant, is no better. 4. Synthetic Dyes Dyes used in fabrics can cause allergic reaction known as textile dye dermatitis in susceptible individuals. The condition can result in widespread inflammation of the skin, redness, as well as itchy, burning rashes that take anywhere from several days to weeks to heal. Such irritations are generally worse in areas where there is perspiration and the fabric rubs against the skin. The three most common dyes that often triggered allergic reactions are Basic Red 46 as well as Disperse Blue 106 and 124, according to this and this study. Basic Red 46 is a dark red dye used in wool, silk, acrylic and polyester textile printing. Disperse Blue 106 and 124 are dark blue dyes primarily found in acetate and polyester fabrics that are colored dark blue, brown, black, violet, purple and some shades of green. 5. Phthalates PerfumeWhat Are They? Phthalates are a class of chemicals commonly used to soften plastics and make them more malleable. But they have also found uses in a wide range of other non-plastic products including those we apply, rub or spray on our bodies, like perfumes, deodorants, fragrances, nail polishes, eye shadows, moisturizers, body lotions, hair sprays, sunscreens, shampoos and soaps. High concentrations of phthalate

have also been found in garments printed with plastisol ink, which is commonly used for screen-printing images on to textiles. Like PCBs and PBDEs, phthalates can disrupt the hormonal system. Some phthalates have also been linked to male sexual development defects in infants, low sperm count, increased risk of asthma, allergies and breast cancer, and early puberty in young girls which significantly up the risk for breast cancer later in life.

Chemical regulations throughout Asia Apart from Japanese Law 112 that has long since limited the formaldehyde contained in apparel, the earliest Asian regulation of chemicals in textiles was in 1997 by India. This banned specific Azo dyes from being used in apparel products and textiles. The next was Chinese regulation GB 18401-2003 that became effective in 2005 and also restricts azo dyes and formaldehyde as well as defining the pH value and certain colorfastness tests, to address safety concerns for chemicals, dyestuffs and wet processing. Arising from the necessity for the compliance of their exports with EU and US safety regulations and their corresponding restrictions on substances, not only have emerging countries adapted, but also developed their own textiles and clothing consumer safety regulations. Recent regulations now require imported brands and distributors take pains to test and comply with stringent regulations when expanding into emerging markets. Examples of such legislation include: South Korea 2010, Taiwan 2011 and Egypt 2012, where sophisticated official control systems are now in place that affect homegrown and imported apparel and are mandatory for all retailers and brands that wish to sell their products in these markets.

Banned Azo Dyes: Defined as containing within the molecule at least one azo bond (N=N-), azo dyes have typically found use as colorants in textiles and apparel. Certain azo dyes can release harmful aromatic amines when exposed to specific chemicals or enzyme conditions. Some aromatic amines are carcinogenic and so are banned. Azo dyes are banned by Egypt, India, China, South Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam. While Japanese government agencies are currently considering similar legislation, voluntary restrictions were announced on March 29, 2012 by Japanese textiles and leather industry associations. Compliance of restricted substances in safety aspects of apparel Banned amines in azo dyes Allergenic disperse dyes Carcinogenic dyes Formaldehyde Heavy metals

Pentachlorophenol, tetrachlorophenol and orthophenylphenol Organotin compounds Chlorinated organic carriers Fluorocarbons Phthalates Polyvinyl chloride Alkyl phenol ethoxylates Flame retardants Polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) Solvents Dioxins and furans Residual pesticides Chlorinated paraffins Dimethyl Fumerate (DMFu) Isocyanates Asbestos Adsorbable organic halides (AOX) -

Chemical banned in Europe EU REACH regulation restricts or ban few chemicals that are used in the textile & apparel articles. If apparel/ garment exported to EU are found to contain such a restricted chemical, the exporter may face legal actions. This would damage company?s reputation apart from the huge financial losses. Therefore, apparel producers and exporters have to follow the conditions outlined in the REACH Regulation. In the table below, you will find a list of such restricted chemicals and the general areas of their application: Following are some of the typical categories of apparel where a REACH restricted chemical might be used: Bodywear: Innerwear, T-shirts, Night- and home wear, Swim- and beach wear, Hosiery, etc.; Babywear: Sleepwear for infants and young children; Woven Outwear (Linen) 1. Tris (2,3 dibromopropyl) phosphate (EC No. 204-799-9; CAS No. 126-72-7) Shall not be used in textile articles intended to come into contact with the skin such as garments, undergarments and linen 2. Tris(aziridinyl)phosphinoxide (CAS No. 5455-55-1) This chemical cannot be used in garments that are intended to come into contact with the skin such as garments, undergarments and linen. 3. Azocolourants

Azodyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more azo groups, may release one or more of the aromatic amines in detectable concentrations, i.e. above 30 mg/kg (0,003 % by weight) in the articles or in the dyed parts thereof, shall not be used in textile articles which may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity, such as: clothing, bedding, towels, hairpieces, wigs, hats, nappies and other sanitary items, sleeping bags,footwear, gloves, wristwatch straps, handbags, purses/ wallets, briefcases, chair covers, purses worn round the neck, textile toys and toys which include textile garments, Yarn and fabrics intended for use by the final consumer. Azodyes, which are contained shall not be placed on the market or used for colouring textile articles as a substance or constituent of mixtures in concentrations higher than 0,1 % by mass.

Furthermore, the textile articles referred to in paragraph 1 above shall not be placed on the market unless they conform to the requirements set out in that paragraph. Organo stannic compounds Dioctyltin (DOT) compounds shall not be used after 1 January 2012 in the following textile products if the conc of DOT is greater than the equivalent of 0.1% by weight of tin: o textile articles intended to come into contact with the skin, o gloves, o nappies,

Industrial Textiles Mercury compounds Shall not be used as substances and constituents of mixtures intended for use in the impregnation of heavy-duty industrial textiles and yarn intended for their manufacture;

Clothing accessories & articles of apparel 1. Azocolourants 1. Azodyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more azo groups, may release one or more of the aromatic amines, in detectable concentrations, i.e. above 30 mg/kg (0,003 % by weight) in the articles or in the dyed parts thereof, shall not be used in textile articles which may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity, such as: ? clothing, bedding, towels, hairpieces, wigs, hats, nappies and other sanitary items, sleeping bags, ? footwear, gloves, wristwatch straps, handbags, purses/ wallets,

briefcases, chair covers, purses worn round the neck, ? textile toys and toys which include textile garments, ? Yarn and fabrics intended for use by the final consumer. 2. Azodyes, which are contained in, shall not be placed on the market or used for colouring textile articles as a substance or constituent of mixtures in concentrations higher than 0,1 % by mass. 3. Furthermore, the textile articles referred to in paragraph 1 above shall not be placed on the market unless they conform to the requirements set out in that paragraph. 2. Organo stannic compounds Dioctyltin (DOT) compounds shall not be used after 1 January 2012 in the following textile products if the conc of DOT is greater than the equivalent of 0.1% by weight of tin: o textile articles intended to come into contact with the skin, o gloves, o nappies, Articles not complying with point (a) shall not be placed on the market after 1 January 2012. Cadmium and is compounds (EC No. 231-152-8; CAS No. 7440-43-9) Shall not be used to stabilise the finished articles listed below manufactured from polymers or copolymers of vinyl chloride -articles of apparel and clothing accessories (including gloves) impregnated, coated, covered or laminated textile fabrics Nickel and its compound (EC No. 231-111-4; CAS No. 7440-02-0) Shall not be used in articles intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin such as: ? rivet buttons, tighteners, rivets, zippers and metal marks, when these are used in garments, If the rate of nickel release from the parts of these articles coming into direct and prolonged contact with the skin is greater than 0,5 g/cm2 / week. General apparel Azocolourants Azodyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more azo groups, may release one or more of the aromatic amines, in detectable concentrations, i.e. above 30 mg/kg (0,003 % by weight) in the articles or in the dyed parts thereof, shall not be used in textile articles which may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity, such as: clothing, bedding, towels, hairpieces, wigs, hats, nappies and other sanitary items, sleeping bags, mfootwear, gloves, wristwatch straps, handbags, purses/ wallets,

briefcases, chair covers, purses worn round the neck, textile toys and toys which include textile garments,Yarn and fabrics intended for use by the final consumer. Azodyes, which are contained in, shall not be placed on the market or used for colouring textile articles as a substance or constituent of mixtures in concentrations higher than 0,1 % by mass. Furthermore, the textile articles referred to in paragraph 1 above shall not be placed on the market unless they conform to the requirements set out in that paragraph.

General textiles Perfluorooctane sulfonates (PFOS) C8F17SO2X (X = OH, Metal salt (O-M+), halide, amide, and other derivatives including polymers) This chemical shall not be placed on the market in textiles or other coated materials, if the amount of PFOS is equal to or greater than 1 ?g/ m2 of the coated material. Home furnishings Cyclohexane (EC No 203-806-2; CAS No 110-82-7): Neoprene-based contact adhesives containing cyclohexane in concentrations equal to or greater than 0,1 % by weight shall not be used for carpet laying after 27 December 2010 Azocolourants Azodyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more azo groups, may release one or more of the aromatic amines, in detectable concentrations, i.e. above 30 mg/kg (0,003 % by weight) in the articles or in the dyed parts thereof, shall not be used in textile articles which may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity Azodyes, which are contained in , shall not be placed on the market or used for colouring textile articles as a substance or constituent of mixtures in concentrations higher than 0,1 % by mass. Furthermore, the textile articles referred to in paragraph 1 above shall not be placed on the market unless they conform to the requirements set out in that paragraph. Case studies: BEIJING, China, November 20, 2012 (ENS) Some of the worlds best known fashion retailers are selling clothing contaminated with hazardous chemicals that break down to form hormone-disrupting or cancer-causing chemicals when released into the environment, finds a report issued today by Greenpeace International in Beijing.

Greenpeace Internationals investigation report, Toxic Threads The Big Fashion Stitch-Up, covers tests on 141 clothing items and exposes the links between textile manufacturing facilities using hazardous chemicals and the presence of chemicals in final clothing products. Greenpeace scientist Scientist Kevin Brigden working at the Greenpeace Research Laboratories at Exeter University (Photo by Alex Stoneman courtesy Greenpeace) Tests at Greenpeace Research Laboratories at Exeter University in the UK and at independent accredited labs found hazardous chemicals in clothing from 20 well-known fashion brands. The tests were conducted on jeans, trousers, t-shirts, dresses and underwear designed for men, women and children and made from both artificial and natural fibers. Hazardous chemicals are both incorporated deliberately within the materials or left as unwanted residues remaining from their use during the manufacturing process, said Greenpeace International, releasing the report. The clothes tested for the study were sold by fashion companies: Armani, Benetton, Blazek, C&A, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Esprit, Gap, H&M, Jack & Jones, Levis, Mango, Marks & Spencer, Metersbonwe, Only, Tommy Hilfiger, Vancl, Vero Moda, Victorias Secret and Zara. Fashion retailer Zara is the only company that researchers found be selling clothes that can give rise to chemicals that are both hormone disrupting and cancer causing when released into the environment. Some of the Zara items tested came out positive for substances that break down to form cancer-causing or hormone-disrupting chemicals which is unacceptable for both consumers and the people living near the factories where these clothes are made, sa id Martin Hojsik, Detox Campaign coordinator at Greenpeace International. One of the worlds largest international fashion companies, Zara says on its website that the company employs an eco-friendly management model, working towards energy and waste reduction and recycling. Zara supports organic farming and makes some of its garments out of organic cotton (100% cotton, completely free of pesticides, chemicals and bleach). They have specific labels and are easy to spot in our shops, the company says o n its site. Hojsik is urging Zara to do more. As the worlds largest clothing retailer, Zara needs to take the lead and take urgent, ambitious and transparent action to Detox their clothes and supply chains, he said. clothing store

Clothing store in New York City (Photo by jag9889) For the Greenpeace study, a total of 141 items of clothing were purchased in April 2012 in 29 countries and regions worldwide from authorized retailers. All tested brands had at least several items containing nonylphenol ethoxylates, or NPEs. Greenpeace warns that some of the chemicals released when NPEs break down in water treatment plants or in rivers are hormone-disrupting chemicals. NPEs were found in 89 garments just under two thirds of those tested. The highest concentrations of NPEs above 1,000 parts per million were found in clothing items from Zara, Metersbonwe, Levis, C&A, Mango, Calvin Klein, Jack & Jones and Marks & Spencer. High levels of toxic phthalates were found in four of the garments. Cancer-causing amines from the use of certain azo dyes were detected in two garments. Both products were manufactured in Pakistan for Zara and sold in either Lebanon or Hungary. clothing Some of the clothing tested for the Greenpeace study (Image courtesy Greenpeace) The items tested were manufactured mainly in Africa, Central and Latin America, and most of Asia, collectively known as the Global South. Major fashion brands are turning us all into fashion victims by selling us clothes that contain hazardous chemicals that contribute to toxic water pollution around the world, both when they are made and washed, said Yifang Li, senior toxics campaigner at Greenpeace East Asia. The textile industry continues to treat public waterways as little more than th eir private sewers. But our fashion doesnt have to cost the Earth: Our clothes dont have to be manufactured with hazardous chemicals, said Li. Greenpeace is demanding that fashion brands commit to zero discharge of all hazardous chemicals by 2020 as brands including H&M and M&S have already done. The environmental group is asking that manufacturers require their suppliers to disclose all releases of toxic chemicals from their facilities to the communities at sites of water pollution. Greenpeace is calling on governments to adopt a political commitment to zero discharge of all hazardous chemicals within one generation, based on the precautionary principle and including a preventative approach by avoiding production and use and, therefore, exposure to hazardous chemicals.

Greenpeace says in the report, As a vital first step to this process, a dynamic list of hazardous chemicals should be established and include chemicals like NPEs and phthalates for priority action, and have a publicly available register of data on discharge emissions and losses of hazardous substances.

Indian Clothes smell Clothes from India with beads and bangles and dyes that maybe our FDA (before Bush) might have BANNED! Terrible quality clothing from the most inexpensive brands to the Liz Claiborn (Mariana's Islands Slave Camps) to Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren. $69,00 for an Acrylic Cardigan (looking like a cast off in the Salvation Army Thrift shop ala the 1950's) and having an odor...to the cute multi-sequined and beaded "tops" that are in all prices and sizes from the "Carribean Joe" line. With the Indian Clothes it's a smell from the dyes that DOES NOT WASH OUT. I've had to discard clothes from India because of the odor of the dyes in the past. Yet, it seems most of the clothes out there in my Mainstream Mall Stores (Belks, Dillards, New Macy's and Penny's) are all imported from India, Jordan and VietNam. Yet the Indian Clothes seem to have the strongest chemical smell. Article is taken from a blog