AMSTERDAM MINI GUIDE Amsterdam is a city like Venice founded on and still today focused around water and

waterways. However, unlike Venice, Holland's largest city is not only a museum piece. In the canals beneath the stag parties and working girls, young Internet entrepreneurs strike deals across Europe from their houseboats and just outside the old core is the RAI, one of the continent's key conference and business hubs. As well as the chugging canal boats, the city's waterways also increasingly play home to massive cruise ships and cargo vessels from all over the world. The lifeblood of Amsterdam has long been its aquatic locale, close as it is to the North Sea and built on countless canals, which divide the city into easily navigable districts and fill it with a small town ambience. There seems to be a canal around every corner in Amsterdam - not too surprising, considering that the city is home to a staggering 165 of them (more than Venice). Amsterdam is a haven for many nationalities, various sexualities and people of radically different political and religious beliefs, but cracks are starting to appear and immigration laws have tightened in recent years as some of the city's eclectic communities have become more and more divided. There is still tolerance when it comes to man's vices, with practical solutions on how to deal with one of the world's oldest industries and the controlled use of soft drugs. During the summer, the city comes together in Vondelpark, where locals and tourists alike relax in the balmy weather. Amsterdam statistically might be one of Europe's wettest capitals, but as soon as the clouds clear and the sun is allowed to shine, its inhabitants spill out onto the streets to sit in the numerous pavement cafs, take a cruise on a canal or even to partake in that most ubiquitous of Amsterdam pastimes, riding bicycles (the city has more than double the number of bikes as it has people). Amsterdam's winters tend to be cold with plenty of rain but this seldom seems to deter the tourists, who flock to the city. Particularly cold winters also offer the unique chance for visitors to witness Amsterdammers skating across the picturesquely frozen canals. These days, with plenty of rail, bus and air connections to all over Europe and further afield, the Dutch capital is a year-round tourist destination as well as one of the world's key business hubs. City Statistics Location: Noord-Holland, The Netherlands. Dialling code: 31. Population: 743,027 (city); 1,209,419 (metropolitan area) (2006). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC (moving at the rate of one volt per year towards the European standard of 230 volts), 50Hz; two-pin European-style plugs are in use. Average January temperatures: 3C (36F). Average July temperatures: 17C (61F). Annual rainfall: 804mm (31.5 inches). Sightseeing Amsterdam is perfect for sightseeing as it is flat and compact, making it easy to walk around. The best way for visitors to get a real feel for the city is to head straight out on a canal tour, something that many locals have never done, or enjoy a cycle, though beware cycling here can be a frightening experience if you are not used to city cycling. Most of the main attractions are located within the historical core, usually within walking distance of

each other, although the efficient tram and bus networks are close at hand for attractions further afield. The most visited sites in the city are the many excellent museums, such as the Rijksmuseum, Anne Frank Museum, Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art, Van Gogh Museum, the NEMO Museum and the Scheepvaartmuseum. Away from these busy places, the city is also blessed with quiet canals and leafy parks, which provide an escape all year round, especially Vondelpark, with its open-air, free concerts during summer. Breaking away from the main tourist throng is the best way for one to discover the real' Amsterdam of grand old canal-side merchants' houses where modern Amsterdammers still live, in an almost rural setting. As well as being the transport hub for the city, Amsterdam's grand Centraal Station is also the gateway to myriad half- and full-day trips, with regular and inexpensive train services all over the Netherlands. Tourist Information VVV Amsterdam Tourist Office Stationsplein 10 (opposite Centraal Station) Tel: (020) 551 2525. Website: www.visitamsterdam.nl; www.iamsterdam.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. In total there are six VVV offices, including this location, Leidseplein/Leidsestraat and the airport. Services provided include general tourist information, hotel and package reservations, excursions and canal cruises, maps and guidebooks, walking tours, public transport tickets, theatre, concert and museum tickets, souvenirs and posters, telephone cards, VVV gift vouchers and currency exchange. Passes The I Amsterdam Card offers tourists the use of public transport (tram, bus and underground), free or reduced admission to many museums, a voucher booklet for 25% discount on several attractions and restaurants, a full-colour pass guide and a free canal boat trip. Attractions offering free entrance to card holders include the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, Amsterdams Historisch Museum and Hortus Botanicus. Valid for one, two or three days, the card is available for purchase from VVV Amsterdam tourist offices, as well as a number of hotels. Key Attractions Rijksmuseum The largest and most popular museum in the Netherlands was opened in 1885 and has grown steadily ever since. Today, it is in the midst of the biggest rebuilding programme in its history. Much of its most famous work by The Masters', though, is still on show in the impressively designed Phillips Wing and as many of the other collections are being put on display as possible. The 'New' Rijksmuseum is scheduled for completion in 2012/13. Jan Luijenstraat 1 Tel: (020) 674 7047. Website: www.rijksmuseum.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 0900-1800; Fri 0900-2200. Admission charge. Anne Frankhuis (Anne Frank House) The queues can be horrendous at the small but very popular Anne Frank House, which annually attracts

up to a million people. It is the historic home where Anne Frank, her family and four other Jewish people hid from the occupying Germans during WWII, after fleeing their native Germany. Finally caught by the Nazis, after two years in hiding, they were taken off to concentration camps, where Anne died. However, her father survived and published her diary, which has been translated into 50 languages. The story of how they were saved by local people for so long sometimes masks the reality that the city's Jewish population was all but wiped out during the war. Prinsengracht 263, Westerkerk Tel: (020) 556 7105. Website: www.annefrank.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Sep-Mar); daily 0900-2100 (Apr-Aug). Admission charge. Van Gogh Museum This spacious museum houses a permanent display of 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 700 letters by Van Gogh (making it easily the largest Van Gogh collection in the world), as well as works by ToulouseLautrec and Gauguin. They also stage a variety of temporary exhibitions. Paulus Potterstraat 7 Tel: (020) 570 5200. Website: www.vangoghmuseum.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 1000-1800; Fri 1000-2200. Admission charge. Scheepvaartmuseum (Netherlands Maritime Museum) The highlight of the maritime museum is the reconstruction of an old Dutch East Indiaman, The Amsterdam, which is moored just offshore. The ship may have no engine but it looks impressive and its confined interior is authentic. The museum helps open up the reality of the country's rich maritime past when the Dutch were major global players and their fleet ventured as far as modern day Indonesia, Goa and Macau. Katterburgerplein 1 Tel: (020) 523 2222. Website: www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Museum Het Rembrandthuis This museum, a charming three-storey house, built in the early 17th century, is where Rembrandt lived for nearly 20 years. Recently, a museum wing has been added, with more space for a permanent collection of his work. It is home to a comprehensive collection of 250 of the artist's etchings and selfportraits. Many visitors find the odds and ends that he accumulated during his lifetime, such as Roman busts and turtle shells, every bit as colourful and illuminating as his paintings. The work of Rembrandt's teachers and students is also on display, which adds depth and dialogue to Rembrandt's own work. Jodenbreestraat 4 Tel: (020) 520 0400. Website: www.rembrandthuis.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 1000-1700; Fri 1000-2100. Admission charge. Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art The best collection of modern art in Amsterdam is currently located in a temporary home whilst work continues on Museumplein. The renovation work is scheduled to be completed by the end of 2009. The

collection includes Dutch and international art from the second half of the 19th century onwards, with works by Picasso, Czanne, Chagall and Monet, as well as photography, video, film and industrial design. Recent Dutch artists on display include Mondrian, De Kooning and Lichtenstein. Oosterdokskade 5 Tel: (020) 573 2911. Website: www.stedelijk.nl Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission charge. Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Amsterdam Historical Museum) The Amsterdam Historical Museum shows how this city grew from a small medieval town into a modern city. Housed in a former orphanage that dates back to 1524, the museum is filled with paintings, prints and archaeological finds. One of the most interesting exhibits is an 18th-century coach without wheels. According to council regulations (and to reduce the noise of wheels on the cobbled streets) wealthy Amsterdammers had to travel by sleigh, even in summer. The entrance fee to the museum includes free entry to the Civic Guards Gallery, a glass-roofed street' between Kalverstraat and the Begijnhof, which is lined with 15 massive portraits of the Amsterdam Civic Guards, dating from the 17th century. However, the Rijksmuseum has the most famous painting of the Civic Guard - Rembrandt's Nightwatch. The museum's courtyards are a relaxing place to be on a warm summer's day with the restaurant offering outside tables. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 Tel: (020) 523 1822. Website: www.ahm.nl Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700; Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge. Heineken Experience The award-winning Heineken Experience is a self-guided, multimedia delve into the workings of the world's largest beer exporter. There is plenty of information on the company's rich history and also the chance to bottle your own beer. At the end of the tour, there is, of course, the chance to sample the brew. Stadhouderskade 78 Tel: (020) 523 9666. Website: www.heinekenexperience.com Opening hours: Daily 1100-1900. Admission charge. Sub-Culture Museums Amsterdam is infamous for its Sex Museum, but it also boasts the dubious charms of the Hash Museum and the Torture Museum. The extremely tacky Sex Museum is full of erotica (objets d'art, photos, prints, paintings and videos) dating from the Roman era to about 1960, although somehow manages to be totally devoid of eroticism. The Hash Museum is of interest to those visitors who come to Amsterdam in search of coffee shops and would like to learn a little more about the hallowed weed, while the Torture Museum caters to another sub-group of society altogether. Nevertheless, it is tongue-in-cheek enough to be of interest to all. The three museums are all within walking distance of each other in the city centre.

Hash Museum Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Tel: (020) 623 5961. Website: www.hashmuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 1100-2200.

Admission charge.

Sex Museum Damrak 18 Tel: (020) 622 8376. Website: www.sexmuseumamsterdam.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2330. Admission charge. Torture Museum Singel 449 Tel: (020) 320 6642. Website: www.torturemuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission charge.
Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) The Royal Palace, designed by Jacob van Campen, was built in 1648, as Amsterdam's city hall. When King Louis Napoleon arrived in Amsterdam, in 1808, he had the city hall turned into a palace. The large collection of Empire-style furniture, chandeliers and clocks date from this period. Although the palace is still the official royal residence, the royal family lives in The Hague. However, Queen Beatrix does host official functions here. Note that the interior is off limits to visitors until 2009 due to a major refurbishment. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147 Tel: (020) 620 4060. Website: www.koninklijkhuis.nl Opening hours: Tues-Thur and Sat-Sun 1230-1700; guided tours need to be booked two weeks in advance. Admission charge. NEMO Museum The funky and modern NEMO Museum is an unmistakable sight on the banks of the IJ. Just a short stroll away from Centraal Station, this museum attempts to defy the crusty image of some traditional museums by offering plenty of hands-on exhibits to stimulate young minds and keep them occupied, as well as provide more information on science and technology for older visitors. This bright, relaxed venue is a good antidote to Amsterdam's other, perhaps stuffier museums, especially for younger visitors. The rooftop has a beach area, a surreal place to take in the rays on a sunny day. Oosterdok 2 Tel: (020) 531 3233. Website: www.e-nemo.nl Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Shopping Amsterdam has much to offer the avid shopper with more than 10,000 shops. On the one hand, there are international fashion labels, books, arts and antiques, while on the other, there are local specialities to buy, such as tulip bulbs, chocolates, cumin cheese, stoneware bottles of jenever (Dutch gin), blue Delft china and diamonds. The main shopping areas are Leidsestraat, between the Leidseplein and Spui, Kalverstraat and Nieuwendijk, leading from the Munt Tower via the Dam to near Centraal Station. Pedestrianised

Leidsestraat, with its fashion boutiques, large fashion store (Metz & Co), souvenir shops and newsagents, is Amsterdam's answer to Oxford Street and the perfect place for tourists to combine a spot of shopping with canal views and caf stops. At the northern end of Leidsestraat is Singel, the floating flower market. Kalverstraat offers a combination of classy department stores, fashion boutiques and the luxurious shopping centre of Kalvertoren, while Nieuwendijk, one of Amsterdam's oldest shopping streets, is home to moderately priced fashion, shoe and CD stores. Amsterdam has gained a reputation for cool clubbing clobber, with Clubwear House, Spuistraat 242, and ZX Fashion, Kerkstraat 113, two of the funkiest outlets, with the latter also boasting a hair salon that specialises in outlandish styles. Both shops also provide insider information on the city's coolest parties, which few tourists ever get to hear about. DKNY is located on PC Hoofstraat 60, while Armani is at number 39-41 in the same upmarket shopping street. Maison de Bonneterie, Rokin 140-2, is the Harrods of Amsterdam - here you can find top quality men's and women's clothing and fine household goods. Miaow, Hartenstraat 36, is perfect for savvy and moneyed shoppers looking for unique fashion from one of the city's most talented designers, Analik. The Dam offers a couple of options, including Bijenkorf, Dam 1, the premier department store in Amsterdam, which sells a good range of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and household items. Magna Plaza, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, is located in a fairy-tale, neo-gothic pile that was once the General Post Office. Inside are 40 shops ranging from Virgin Megastore to Shu Uemura Cosmetics. Emerging shopping areas include KNSM island, with its designer outlets, and Haarlemmerdijk and Tussen de Bogen, with their speciality and niche shops. Wini, Haarlemstraat 29, is a favourite of the local clubbing set with hip clothes and retro fashion. Amsterdam has 25 markets for those seeking a bargain; they are open during normal shopping hours (see below), weather permitting. There is an interesting flea market around the City Hall and Opera. The busy, cosmopolitan food and clothes market is in Albert Cuypstraat. The colourful bloemenmarkt (flower market) on the Singel is not to be missed, while the organic food boerenmarkt (farmers' market) is in Noordermarkt, which is open Saturday 0900-1600 (in winter until 1500). The vogelmarkt (bird market), also at Noordermarkt, is open Saturday 0800-1300. Traditional shopping hours are Tuesday to Friday 0900 or 1000-1800 and Saturday 0900-1700. However, some shops now stay open later, particularly on Thursday. Generally, shops are closed all day on Sunday and on Monday morning. There is a 20% sales tax on luxury goods and 5% on other items.

ATHENS MINI GUIDE Athens (Athina) is named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, who, according to legend, won the city after defeating Poseidon in a duel. The goddess' victory was celebrated by the construction of a temple on the Acropolis, the site of the city's earliest settlement in Attica. As a city state, the coastal capital of Athens reached its heyday in the fifth century BC. The office of the statesman, Pericles, between 461BC and his death in 429BC, saw an unprecedented spate of construction resulting in many of the great classical buildings (the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Hephaisteion and the temple at Sounion) now regarded as icons of Ancient Greece. Physical evidence of the city's success was matched by achievements in the intellectual arts. Democracy was born, drama flourished and Socrates conceived the foundations of Western philosophy. Remarkably, although the cultural legacy of this period has influenced Western civilisation ever since,

the classical age in Athens only lasted for five decades. Under the Macedonians and Romans, the city retained a privileged cultural and political position but became a prestigious backwater of the Empire rather than a major player. The birth of Christianity heralded a long period of occupation and decline, culminating in 1456 and four centuries of Turkish domination. By the end of the 18th century, Athens was also suffering the indignity of having the artistic achievements of its classical past removed by looting collectors. Over 3 million visitors come to the city each year to see the sights and usually head off for the lovely Greek islands. In addition to the celebrated classical sites, the city boasts Byzantine, medieval and 19th-century monuments, as well as one of the best museums in the world and areas of surprising natural beauty. Despite the traffic, an appealing village-like quality becomes evident in the cafes, tavernas, markets and the maze of streets around the Plka. Moreover, Athens has the finest restaurants and the most varied nightlife in the country and remains a major European centre of culture, celebrated each year at the Athens Festival. The metropolitan area, including the port at Piraeus, is the indisputable industrial and economic powerhouse of the country, while the return of the Olympic Games in 2004 prompted a flurry of new development, including a new airport, the extension of the metro system, the building of new sports venues, the upgrading of hotels, the renovation of several top museums, and the formation of a traffic-free archaeological promenade'. City Statistics Location: Attica, Greece. Dialling code: 30. The old Athens code of 010' has been replaced with 210', however, 210' must be dialled even within Athens. All numbers throughout the country now have ten digits, which must all be dialled. Population: 3,192,606 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 9.5C (49F). Average July temperatures: 27.5C (81.5F). Annual rainfall: 376mm (14.5 inches). Sightseeing Modern Athens is divided into districts but Syntagma or Constitution Square is the epicentre of the city - almost everything worth seeing in Athens is within half an hour's walk of here. Other useful landmarks are the unavoidable Akrpoli (Acropolis) and Lykavitts Hill. The Plka covers the area below the Acropolis, to the east of the Agor. Despite being heavily commercialised, this is the most pleasant part of the city to explore on foot. Narrow winding streets are lined with 19thcentury buildings, souvenir shops and bustling tavernas. In particular, Anafitika (at the base of the Acropolis) is a delightful area that recreates the style and atmosphere of a Greek village. The area was settled by workers from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to build a palace for King Otto. In addition to simply wandering the streets or watching the world go by over a lengthy coffee, the highlights of the Plka include several specialist museums. On the edge of this district, the Monastraki bazaar is a grimy, bustling slice of authentic Athenian life,

with neighbouring Psirri the currently fashionable area for bars, restaurants and nightlife. At the other end of the scale, the Kolonki district on the edge of Lykavitts is wealthy and fashionable, providing a welcome retreat from the harder parts of the city. The tourist season lasts from April to October and is at its peak in August, when the city is particularly crowded. The Ministry of Culture's website provides information for visitors about the main monuments in Athens (website: www.culture.gr). Tourist Information Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) Amalias 26, close to Syntagma Tel: 210 331 0392. Website: www.gnto.gr Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-1800. Passes It is possible to buy a block ticket for the Archaeological Sites of Athens'. The ticket is valid for four days and can be bought at any of the participating sites. These include the Acropolis, the Theatre of Dionysus, the Agor, Kerameiks, the Roman Forum and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Key Attractions Akrpoli (Acropolis) The Acropolis (upper city) dominates both the city's skyline and any tourist's itinerary. The name refers to the rocky outcrop that formed the site of the original settlement in Athens. Foundations for a temple dedicated to Athena were laid in 490BC, however, work did not begin in earnest until the Golden Age of Pericles (461-429BC). The Acropolis site includes the Acropolis Museum and four sacred buildings, all from the fifth century BC. The steep ascent to the summit leads to the Propylaea, a monumental gateway in the Ionic and Doric styles, which serves as the entrance to the site. The Temple of Athena Nike is to the left of the Propylaea - the original was destroyed by Turkish forces in the 17th century but has been beautifully restored.The Parthenon is the largest building on the Acropolis and an icon of Western civilisation. Built entirely from marble, the Parthenon was intended as a sanctuary for Athena and housed a statue (no longer in existence) of the goddess. Despite the tourists, the perfect harmony of the structure is still awe-inspiring. The Erechtheion temple is a dual shrine to Athena and Poseidon-Erechtheus and was built on the site of the mythical battle between the two deities. The south side features a series of six support columns designed as maidens or caryatids. Due to severe environmental damage, the caryatids have been replaced by models. Acropolis Hill, centre of Athens Tel: 210 321 0219. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Mouseo Akrpolis (Acropolis Museum) In the past, many of the treasures from the Acropolis could be found in the Acropolis Museum, in the southeast corner of the complex. Exhibits are gradually being transferred to the New Acropolis Museum, at the foot of the Acropolis Hill. An all-glass structure designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum will be a new home for statues and artefacts from the Acropolis and hopefully persuade the British Museum in London to return the controversial Parthenon Marbles, seized by Lord Elgin in 1799. Thatro Dionysou (Theatre of Dionysus) On the southern slopes of the Acropolis Hill, the Thatro Dionysou was home to the original performances of the tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripedes and the comedies of

Aristophanes. This stone auditorium, from the fourth century BC, held 17,000 spectators and the ruins remain one of the most atmospheric of Athens' ancient sites. D Areopagitou, Plaka Tel: 210 322 4625. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Agor (Market) Although the site is now a jumble of monuments and ruins from different periods, in Athens' heyday the Agor was the focus of city life, serving not only as a place of trade but also as the city's political, administrative and cultural heart. Law courts, temples and public offices were all based in this area, where ordinary Athenians, stall holders and merchants mingled with officials, politicians and philosophers. The site is dominated by the Hephaisteion (Temple of Haephaistos), from the fifth century BC, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece. The fascinating Museo tis Agoras (Museum of Agor) contains an eccentric array of everyday artefacts found in the area. It is housed in the Stoa Attalou (Stoa of Attalos). This two-storey structure from the second century BC was restored by the American School of Archaeology and is thought to have been an early shopping arcade containing 42 separate shops. Adrianou 24, Monastirki Tel: 210 331 0963. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Ethnik Archaiologik Mouseio (National Archaeological Museum) Following extensive renovation, this world-famous museum reopened in summer 2004. Housed in a late 19th-century building, it is undoubtedly the best museum in Greece with one of the finest collections of ancient and classical Greek artefacts. Fascinating pieces include the Mycenaen Collection featuring hordes of finely crafted gold work dating from between the 16th and 11th centuries BC, and the Bronze Collection, including an imposing bronze statue of Poseidon from 460BC. Refreshments are available in the museum cafe overlooking the internal sculpture garden. Patission 44, Omonia Tel: 210 821 7717. Opening hours: Mon 1300-1930, Tues-Fri 0800-1930, Sat-Sun 0830-1500. Admission charge. Vizantino Mouseio (Byzantine Museum) Housed in the grounds of a delightful neoclassical villa, this museum reopened in summer 2004 after total renovation. The open-plan exhibition space lies below the central courtyard, with exhibits presented in chronological order, tracing the development of the Byzantine Empire. Besides boasting one of the richest collections of religious icons in the world, the museum exhibits mosaics, frescoes, sculptural works and jewellery from the area that is now Greece, as well as from other regions of the former Byzantine Empire. Vassilissis Sofias 22, Kolonki Tel: 210 721 1027. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1500. Admission charge. Mouseo Ellinikis Laikis Technis (Museum of Greek Folk Art) Lying on the edge of Plka, this museum displays a vast and colourful collection of folk art that dates

from 1650 onwards. Works are divided into specific sections devoted to costumes, embroidery, weaving, gold and silver jewellery, woodwork, weaponry, Greek shadow theatre and hand-painted ceramics. The highlights are the traditional costumes, set off against suggestive reconstructions of houses relating to their specific regions. Another highlight is the Theofilis Room, the reconstruction of a house on the island of Lesvos, which was frescoed by Theofilis Hadjimichael (1868-1934). Kidathineon 17, Plka Tel: 210 321 3018. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1400. Admission charge. Mouseo Ellinikn Mousikon Orgnon (Museum of Greek Musical Instruments) Housed in a renovated 19th-century mansion in the heart of Plka, the Mouseo Ellinikn Mousikon Orgnon displays a collection accumulated by the musicologist, Fivos Anoyanakis. This museum is great fun - each display case is accompanied by a headset, so that visitors can listen to the sound of the instruments. Films in the entrance feature their construction and performance. Information is provided in English. Diogenous 1-3, Plka Tel: 210 362 9513. Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1400, Wed 1200-1800. Free admission. Mouseo Kykladiks kai Archaas Elliniks Tchnis (Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art) The museum houses the private collection of Nikolas P Goulandris. Beautiful exhibits from the Cycladic civilisation (3000-2000BC) form the focus of the collection but other artefacts cover the preMinoan Bronze Age and the post-Mycenaen age up to 700BC, and a collection of Ancient Cypriot Art was added in 2004. The museum shop offers an excellent selection of quality reproduction pieces, while the light and airy atrium cafe is a good place for coffee or a light lunch. Neoftou Dhouk 4, Kolonki Tel: 210 722 8321. Website: www.cycladic-m.gr Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Fri 1000-1600, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat 1000-1500. Admission charge (free Sat). Panathinaiko Stdio (Panathenaic Stadium) The elegant three-sided stone stadium was built in 1896, for the first of the modern-day Olympic Games. The design by Ernst Ziller was based on the plan of a fourth-century-BC stadium that originally stood on the site. During the 2004 Olympic Games, this stadium hosted the fencing contests and the marathon ended here. It should not be confused with the modern Olympic Stadium in the north of the city that formed the centre stage of the 2004 Olympics. Leoforos Ardhittou Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Free admission. Olympieion (Temple of Olympian Zeus) Lying close to the National Gardens and Plka, this was one of largest temples in the ancient world, being dedicated to the god of all gods, Zeus. Building work began in 515BC, but was only completed some 700 years later in AD131 under the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Today, 16 of the original 104 marble columns, which are 17m (56ft) high, survive. On the edge of the site stands the triumphal arch named Hadrian's Arch.

Leoforos Vassilissis. Olgas and Amalias Tel: 210 922 6330. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Mouseio Benaki (Benaki Museum) The museum houses the private collection of Antonios Benakis (1873-1954), the son of a wealthy Greek from Alexandria, Egypt. Displayed in a neo-classical mansion, the collection traces the development of Greek art, from the Stone Age up to the 20th century, with jewellery, ceramics, painting, sculpture, furniture and costumes laid out in chronological order. There is a roof top terrace cafe and a museum shop selling reproductions of the exhibits on display. Vassilissis Sofias & Koumbari 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210 367 1000. Website: www.benaki.gr Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 0900-1700, Thurs 0900-2400, Sun 0900-1500. Admission charge (free Thurs). Shopping Athens' busiest shopping street is the pedestrianised Ermou, off Syntagma Square, where shoppers can pick up the season's latest souvenirs, clothing and accessories. The most upmarket shopping district in Athens is nearby Kolonki, where designer boutiques (such as the Italian Versace) rub shoulders with coffee shops and chic restaurants. This area includes Tsakalof, one of the most expensive streets in the world. Avid shoppers will find a large shopping mall, called The Mall, in the northern suburb of Maroussi. The city's best bookshop is the vast seven-storey Eleftheroudakis on Panepistimiou, which stocks an excellent selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction and travel guides. There is a long tradition of silver and gold craftsmanship in Athens and jewellery made here can be of a particularly high quality. Jewellers are concentrated in chic Kolonki, with the expensive international outlets, such as Bulgari, lining Voukourestiou, while up-and-coming Greek designers, such as Elena Votsi, have shops in the surrounding side streets. Other good-value items include spirits, ceramics and leather goods. Typical Greek gifts include handwoven rugs, known as flokati, copper coffee pots, virgin olive oil and honey, all of which can be found in the souvenir shops in Plka. In Athens, there is a big market in reproductions of museum pieces and religious icons - the best places for visitors to buy these are at the shops in the museums themselves. In the Monastirki area, on the edge of Plka, shops sell everything from combat army boots and second-hand books to fake designer sunglasses and ancient coins. Shops open out directly onto the street, bazaar style, while Sundays bring the Monastirki Flea Market, 0800-1400, where goods range from carefully restored antique furniture to rather dubious bric-a-brac. Kentrik Agor (Central Market) is housed in a huge 19th-century metal structure near Omonia Square and is open early morning to early evening, often taking a break for siesta during summer. It sells fish, meat and fresh produce. Smaller markets radiate out from the central building. Household items, fresh fruit and vegetables are sold weekly in Laiki (People's Markets) all over Athens. Shops generally open Monday and Wednesday 0900-1430, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 0900-1330 and 1730-2030 and Saturday 0900-1500 (though some of the larger shops now stay open till 1700 Saturdays). Small, family-run shops may stay open as late as 2200, for the sale of food, drinks and newspapers. Bargains can be snapped up at the sales in August and February.

Visitors from outside the European Union who have been in Greece for less than three months can claim back VAT of up to 18% on purchases over 120. A tax-free cheque' will be issued in the shop to be presented along with the receipt to customs when leaving the county. BARCELONA MINI GUIDE Just decades ago, few tourists would have considered visiting the northern Spanish city of Barcelona. However, this once rather rundown industrial centre, which seemed to have little to offer, has undergone a seismic change that culminated in the hosting of the Olympic Games in 1992, an event which completely transformed Barcelona. As well as a string of purpose-built sporting developments springing up all over the city (with the epicentre on the slopes of Montjuc) Barcelona also benefited from major investments. Barcelona has since become something of a mecca for the world's top architects, who have flocked here to conjure up an array of modern structures and avant-garde designs. Many have drawn their inspiration from the seminal work of Barcelona's most famous son, the modernist architect Antoni Gaudi, whose unique style can still be savoured in a number of key buildings around the city. His masterpiece is the unfinished Sagrada Familia cathedral, but his work can be seen even in the lampposts and fountains of Plaa Reial. Fortunately, the rush of new construction has not completely dwarfed the older buildings, as the old and new architectural styles harmoniously combine. Barcelona is the kind of city where a contemporary glass and steel office block can rest happily within striking distance of a gothic cathedral, a city where the old port has been rejuvenated without losing any of its charm. As the capital of Catalunya, the city is also solidifying its position as a major regional economic power, tucked strategically close to the French border and with a wide Mediterranean coastline. Its key industries include manufacture, textiles, electronics and tourism - in 2006, Catalunya received 15.7 million visitors from a total of over 50 million throughout Spain. The economy of Barcelona has been steadily expanding during the past decade and although it contains just 4% of the Spanish population, the city contributes nearly 15% to the country's GDP. The locals are very aware of the city's potential. A strong desire still remains among some to create an independent Catalan state with Barcelona at its helm, instead of the current Spanish set up, where Barcelona plays second fiddle in political terms to Madrid. Some observers believe that the desire for outright independence has waned since the death of General Franco and the granting of a greater deal of autonomy to the region. Nevertheless, in the bars and cafes of the city, the patriotic feelings still remain strong. Nowhere is this proud drive for greater self-determination more evocative than at Camp Nou, the home of Barcelona FC (one of Europe's greatest football teams) when a capacity 89,787 crowd pulsates

to a rousing victory over arch rivals Real Madrid. With a balmy year-round climate (not too steamily hot in summer and with few genuinely cold days in winter) it is not surprising that Barcelona is attracting an increasing number of visitors. Indeed, with cheap air travel becoming more popular, Barcelona has entered the millennium as one of Europe's most popular short break destinations. City Statistics Location: Catalunya (Catalonia), northeast Spain. Dialling code: 34. Population: 1,673,075 (city); 3,161,081 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 10C (50F). Average July temperatures: 25C (78F). Annual rainfall: 590mm (23.2 inches). Sightseeing Barcelona is neatly framed by the Mediterranean to the east and the hills of Montjuc and Tibidabo on two of its other flanks. The central section of the city, where most tourists spend their time, is even more conveniently divided by La Rambla, the main artery of Barcelona life, which tumbles from Plaa de Catalunya southeast towards the Mediterranean and the recently reborn districts of Port Vell (Old Port), and trendy La Ribera (The Waterfront). The atmospheric Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter), the area to the right of La Rambla, heading in the direction of Plaa de Catalunya, is the charming heart of the old city, embracing the Catedral de la Seu and Museu Picasso amid narrow streets and hidden squares. Plaa de Catalunya divides the old town from the Eixample (a grid of streets laid out in the 19th century) in which much of the city's finest Modernist architecture is to be found, including the celebrated Sagrada Famlia, a marvel of design by Anton Gaudi. An eccentric recluse, Gaud was the most celebrated practitioner of the modernist style, whose innovative work threw all design rulebooks out of the window in his quest to get architecture to mirror the curves and intricacies of nature. In addition to those sights described in Key Attractions, further architectural highlights include Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau and the Palau de la Msica Catalana, both designed by Gaud's contemporary, Domnech i Montaner. Passeig de Grcia, the most stylish street in the city, is at the heart of the Eixample and intersects with the Diagonal - the city's main thoroughfare, at its northern end. The Montjuc mountainside has successfully managed the transition from being the site of the 1992 Olympic Games to become a permanent tourist attraction, boasting the remaining Olympic installations, such noteworthy museums as Fundaci Joan Mir and the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, as well as great views of the city.

Tourist Information Centre d'Informaci Turisme de Barcelona Plaa de Catalunya 17-S Tel: 807 117 222, within Spain only or (93) 285 3834. Website: www.barcelonaturisme.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100. Other information desks can be found at the airport, at Central-Sants station and in Plaa Sant Jaume. Passes The Barcelona Card offers discounts of up to 50% at many of the most interesting tourist attractions, including museums, entertainment and leisure venues, shops and restaurants, as well as free public transport and assistance insurance. Attractions include Museu Picasso, Casa-Museu Gaud and Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona. The card is available for one, two, three, four or five days, from the main tourist offices at Plaa de Catalunya, Plaa Sant Jaume and Central-Sants station. The ArticketBCN gives half-price admission to seven of the city's main art galleries and museums - Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Fundaci Joan Mir, Fundaci Antoni Tpies, Centre de Cultura Contempornia de Barcelona (CCCB), Centre Cultural Caixa de Catalunya, Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) and the Museu Picasso. It is available from any of the respective box offices and branches of Caixa Catalunya. Key Attractions Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family) Gaud's unfinished masterpiece and the city's most outlandish landmark, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, towers crazily above the grid-like streets of the Eixample. Despite being very much a building site, the cathedral has a certain beauty that somehow emerges, despite the omnipresent scaffoldings. However, it remains the subject of continual controversy over who should pay for its completion. The extraordinary structure has elicited cries of astonishment, awe, amusement and anger from visitors and residents alike, although it remains one of the city's most visited attractions. Carrer de Mallorca 401 Tel: (93) 207 3031. Website: www.sagradafamilia.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Oct-Mar); daily 0900-2000 (Apr-Sep). Admission charge. Museu Picasso (Picasso Museum) The Picasso Museum is one of the city's main tourist attractions, housed in two 15th-century palaces close to the Parc de la Ciutadella. The impressive permanent collection is devoted to the artist's early work, including a large number of childhood sketches, paintings from the Blue Period (1901-1904) and the Pink Period (1907-1920), exhibition posters, ceramics and cubist works. There are also two exhibition spaces for temporary exhibitions.

Carrer Montcada 15-23 Tel: (93) 256 3000. Website: www.museupicasso.bcn.es Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-2000. Admission charge. La Rambla La Rambla is not one street but rather a seamless series of pedestrian avenues stretching from the Monument a Colom on the waterfront to Plaa de Catalunya in the centre of the city. La Rambla has the same place in the psyche of the city as the Champs Elyses in Paris or Oxford Street in London do, although it is far less snooty than the former and far more attractive than the latter. Lined with trees, cafes, restaurants, flower stalls, shops and newspaper stands, La Rambla is the perfect place in which to stroll and soak up the unique Barcelona atmosphere. Attractions along the way include Gaud's first major architectural project, Palau Gell (Gell Palace), in Carrer Nou de la Rambla, just off the main drag. Plaa Reial, also just off La Rambla, is one of the most attractive squares in the city - elegant 19th-century houses look down on palm trees, lampposts designed by Gaud, and an eclectic mix of people enjoying the lively atmosphere at outdoor cafes. Some of La Rambla's most captivating attractions are its famous street entertainers who delight the crowds with their weird and wacky shows. Other points of interest are the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the legendary Caf de L'Opera opposite, as well as La Boqueria, Barcelona's wonderful, bustling food market. Palau Gell Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5 Tel: (93) 317 3974. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1430. Free admission. Note: The palace is currently only partially open while renovations take place. Gran Teatre del Liceu La Rambla 51-59 Tel: (93) 485 9900 (information) or 9913 (box office). Website: www.liceubarcelona.com Opening hours: Performances daily 1700 and/or 2030 (varies). Admission charge. La Boqueria Rambla Sant Josep Tel: (93) 318 2584. Website: www.boqueria.info Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2030, Sat 0800-2000. Free admission. Parc Gell (Gell Park) With Parc Gell, Gaud created a fantasy land that seamlessly combines the natural and the man-made, as well as offering good views over the city. The park, originally conceived as a garden city, covers a hill to the north of the city centre. The gardens are enlivened by fantastic pavilions,

stairways, columned halls and an organic plaza decorated with stunning broken-mosaic work (trencads) by Gaud's assistant, Josep Maria Jujol. At the base of the hill is a house designed by Francesc Berenguer, which is now home to a collection of Gaud's furnishings and other memorabilia. Carrer d'Olot Tel: (93) 213 0488. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Nov-Feb); daily 1000-2100 (May and Aug); daily 1000-1900 (Mar and Oct); daily 1000-2000 (Apr and Sep). Free admission to the park, charge for Casa Museu Gaudi. Casa Mil Casa Mil, also known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry), is an undulating apartment block on the corner of Passeig de Grcia. The building, inspired by the ocean, is an incredible testament to Gaud's ability to make stone malleable. Apartments (which are not open to the public) are arranged around elliptical patios with no square corners in sight. The roof terrace is watched over by sentry-like chimneys and offers an excellent view across the city to the spires of La Sagrada Familia. The loft space of Casa Mil houses a beautiful museum, Espai Gaud, dedicated to the architect. Passeig de Grcia 92/Carrer Provenca 261-265 Tel: (93) 484 5979 or 902 400 973. Website: www.fundaciocaixacatalunya.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1830 (Nov-Feb); 0900-2000 (Mar-Oct). Admission charge. Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter) The maze of streets known as the Barri Gtic or Gothic Quarter contains an exemplary collection of gothic buildings dating from Catalonia's Golden Age, in the 14th and 15th centuries, interspersed with Roman ruins, delightful squares and numerous bars and restaurants. Plaa Sant Jaume, at the heart of the district, is the epicentre of the city's political life. The square is overlooked on one side by the Renaissance-style Palau de la Generalitat (location of the Catalan government) and on the other by the Ajuntament (city hall). Nearby, the Palau Real on Plaa del Rei houses the Museu d'Histria de la Ciutat. The remains of the Roman city of Barcino, beneath the palace, were uncovered in 1931; Roman streets are still visible in the vast cellar space that stretches as far as the cathedral. The museum admission fee gives access to the cellar and to a number of beautiful medieval buildings. Museu d'Histria de la Ciutat Plaa del Rei Tel: (93) 256 2122. Website: www.museuhistoria.bcn.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1000-1500 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sat 1000-1400 and 1600-1900, Sun 1000-1500 (Oct-Mar). Admission charge. Catedral de la Seu Catedral de la Seu was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, on the site of an earlier basilica, although the spire and facade were not added until the beginning of the 20th century. Highlights include the carved choir

stalls, the Capella de Lepanto and the tranquil cloisters containing a pond of white geese. Plaa de la Seu Tel: (93) 315 1554. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1315 and 1630-1930. Free admission. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya - MNAC (National Museum of Catalonian Art) The Palau Nacional, on Montjuc, was the focus of Barcelona's International Fair in 1929. It now houses the National Museum of Catalonian Art. The museum boasts a stunning collection of gothic, Romanesque and medieval treasures and religious artefacts. The museum also houses the collections of the Museu D'Art Modern, recently moved from the Palau de la Ciutadella in the Parc de la Ciutadella. The most impressive approach to the Palace is up Avinguda de La Reina Maria Cristina, from Plaa Espanya - the avenue is lined with fountains that are floodlit at night. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuc Tel: (93) 622 0360. Website: www.mnac.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1000-1430. Admission charge. Fundaci Joan Mir (Joan Mir Foundation) Also on Montjic, the Joan Mir Foundation is one of the most innovative galleries in the city. The foundation was a gift from the artist himself and houses a permanent collection of his paintings, graphics and sculptures. Parc de Montjuc Tel: (93) 443 9470. Website: www.bcn.fjmiro.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (Oct-Jun); Tues-Sat 1000-2000, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (JulSep). Admission charge. Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord) A series of extraordinary houses by Montaner, Gaud and Puig i Cadafalch make up the Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord) on the Passeig de Grcia, between Arag and Consell de Cent. Gaud's Casa Batll, at number 43, looks rather like an underwater grotto, with blue-green tiles on the facade, frog-faced balconies and a reptilian roof. Together they form part of the Ruta Modernista (see Tours of the City). Information and passes for this architectural tour can be obtained from the first floor of Casa Llo Morera, at number 35. Regrettably, the interiors of all three houses are closed to the public. However Ruta Modernista pass-holders are permitted onto the roof of Casa Batll. Passeig de Grcia Santa Maria del Mar

Santa Maria del Mar is counted among the most beautiful churches in the city and is considered a prime example of Mediterranean gothic architecture. It is located just to the northeast of the Barri Gtic, at the heart of the fashionable La Ribera district. A 15th-century rose window adds colour to the simple harmony of the columned interior. Plaa de Santa Maria Tel: (93) 310 2390. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1330 and 1630-2000. Free admission. Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona - MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Arts) Looking rather incongruous in the down-at-heel surroundings of the Raval district, to the west of La Rambla, the brilliant-white Museum of Contemporary Arts is at the forefront of efforts to regenerate this traditionally seedy area of the city. The museum opened amid a blaze of publicity in 1995 and houses a permanent collection of post-1940s international art, as well as various temporary exhibitions. Plaa dels ngels 1 Tel: (93) 412 0810. Website: www.macba.es Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Fri 1100-1930, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 10001500 (25 Sep-23 Jun); Mon and Wed 1100-2000, Thurs-Fri 1100-2400, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (24 Jun-24 Sep). Closed Tues. Admission charge. The Waterfront A stroll along the harbourside passeig and wooden walkway is an excellent way to see some of the results of Barcelona's epic regeneration programme. The focus of interest and activity in Barcelona is shifting back towards the sea, with the continued development of Port Vell (Old Port). The waterfront now boasts a myriad of eateries and bars, a vast shopping mall and leisure centre (Maremagnum) and an excellent aquarium. Barceloneta, the old fisherman's quarter, which dates from 1755, still has some of the best fish restaurants in the city and is now also the gateway to Barcelona's cleaned-up beaches. Further to the east, the Vila Olmpica at Poble Nou, created for the 1992 Olympic Games, is one of the liveliest and most interesting areas of the city during the warmer months, although it is often deserted during winter. Passeig de Colom FC Barcelona President Nez Museum and Nou Camp The President Nez Museum, one of the best football museums in the world, is happily situated within the stadium of one of the world's most legendary football clubs. A visit to the museum, which contains a history section, art gallery, and one of the best private collections of football memorabilia in the world, can be combined with a tour of Nou Camp. The stadium tour includes the changing rooms, tunnel, dugouts, TV studio, directors' area and culminates with a panoramic view of the entire facility. Avinguda Aristides Maillol

Tel: (93) 496 3600. Website: www.fcbarcelona.cat Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1830, Sun 1000-1430 (Nov-Mar); Mon-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1000-1430 (Apr-Oct); 1000-1300 (match days, tour not available). Admission charge. Shopping Shopping is one of Barcelona's greatest attractions, with a bountiful 5km (3-mile) shopping strip, all the way from the water's edge at Port Vell right up La Rambla to Diagonal. International chains, designer shops and modern department stores can be found in the area around Plaa de Catalunya, Passeig de Gracia and along Avinguda Diagonal. The most famous shop in the city is the imposing El Corte Ingls, on Plaa de Catalunya - part of a national chain, generally considered to be Spain's leading department stores. La Rambla and the Barri Gtic are popular places for tourists to hunt for souvenirs. A visit to La Boqueria market, officially Mercat de Sant Josep, off Rambla Sant Josep, is an unmissable experience. The market is open Monday to Friday 0800-2030 and Saturday 0800-2000, for the sale of fresh fish, meat, vegetables and dairy products. Other food markets for keen shoppers to try are Concepci, Carrer Arag, Ninot, Carrer Mallorca, and the Gastronomic Fair, which takes place in Plaa del Pi, on the first and third Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the month. For antiques and curios, the Els Encants market is held on Plaa de les Glories, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 0900-1900. Another antiques market is held on Plaa Nova every Thursday (except in August). Representative gifts include Catalan black pottery, handwoven baskets or Barcelona lace. In recent years, a number of urban-chic orientated fashion stores have opened in the city centre. For the ultimate in local style, head to Barcelona's top fashion designer Antonio Mir, Carrer Consell de Cent 349351, or Jean Pierre Bua, Avinguda Diagonal 469, which stocks such trendy designer names such as Gaultier and Miyake. Shops open at 0900 or 1000 and close again for an extended lunch, between 1330 and 1600 or 1700. In the evening, shops shut at 2000 or 2030. Large department stores do not generally close for lunch. All shops are open on Saturday afternoons but are closed all day on Sunday. IVA (value added tax) of 16% is charged on most goods and services in Spain.

BERLIN MINI GUIDE Berlin is back - back as the capital of a reunified Germany and back as one of Europe's greatest - and most vibrant - cities. After WWII, Berlin was a crippled pawn, sandwiched between East and West, with a literal and metaphorical wall deeply dividing the two halves. The northeastern German city even suffered the ignominy of losing its capital status, as the West German government fled to Bonn. Today, the Cold War and the iconic events of November 1989, which saw the Berlin Wall torn to pieces by those whom it had oppressed for so long, are starting to seem like a distant memory and all the talk in

Berlin is of the future. In the biggest construction project in Europe since WWII, a new Berlin has emerged from the forest of cranes dotting the no-man's land that was the divided city's dead heart. Potsdamer Platz is the most voluminous project but the most symbolic recent construction is at the Reichstag. British architect Norman Foster has rejuvenated the German parliament with an impressive glass dome that symbolises the new transparency in German politics - that of a nation with nothing to hide, which is attempting to distance itself from the ghosts of its past. Coupled with this wave of recent construction is a city laden with historical charm - from the old streets of East Berlin, which are slowly being restored after remaining unchanged for 50 years, through to the grand architecture of Museumsinsel and Unter den Linden, and the green lung of the Tiergarten Park. Tourism is on the rise, as visitors come to savour the intoxicating mix of old and new. Big business, too, is booming and key industries such as electronics, manufacturing and information technology reflect the dynamism of the German economy. Contrary to the usual cliches about Germany, Berlin is a city with a laid-back attitude and some of the liveliest nightlife in Europe. In Berlin today, there is everything from authentic beer halls and old Soviet era haunts right through to buzzing style bars and Latino nightclubs. Berlin's climate is equally eclectic, with hot summer days giving way to occasionally freezing temperatures during the long grey winter. Today's quintessential Berlin experience is to laze through a summer day in the Tiergarten with the murmur of construction just out of earshot, sipping on a chilled Pilsner beer, while absorbing the rush and hum of one of Europe's finest capitals. City Statistics Location: Berlin State, northeastern Germany. Dialling code: 49. Population: 3,404,037 (city). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: -0.4C (33F). Average July temperatures: 23C (73F). Annual rainfall: 484mm (19 inches). Sightseeing Berlin can be a sightseeing nightmare - the vast sprawl that is the city has no definite centre and pockets of attractions are dotted all over. That said, the state museums are grouped in clusters - on the Museumsinsel, at the Kulturforum, in and around Schloss Charlottenberg and in the southwestern suburb of Dahlem. There are also a large number of attractions either at Potsdamer Platz or very close to it, including the Kulturforum to the southwest. To the north lie the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) and the Reichstag, sporting Lord Foster's glass dome. The Brandenburg Gate is situated on Berlin's main eastwest axis. To the west lies the Siegessule (Victory Column), which provides a view over the surrounding Tiergarten and the Western city centre, to the southwest of the column. West Berlin's centre has less to offer and is better for shopping and nightlife than for sightseeing. Nevertheless, visitors should take a look at the broken shard of a church, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedchtniskirche, which serves as a brutal reminder of WWII. The zoo is nearby.

The densest array of sights lies to the east of the Brandenburg Gate, on either side of Unter den Linden, lined with many 18th- and 19th-century buildings. At its end are the artistic and architectural treasures of the Museumsinsel, where the city's main cathedral, the Berliner Dom, can be found. Further on is the Communist-era Fernsehturm (television tower), on Alexanderplatz, which marked the centre of East Berlin. Just south of the Brandenburg Gate is the controversial Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, which opened in 2005. Tourist Information Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH Tel: (030) 250 025. Website: www.visitberlin.de Hauptbahnhof (Main Station) Opening hours: Daily 0800-2200. Brandenburg Gate (South Wing), Pariser Platz (East Berlin) Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, opens later Apr-Oct. Another tourist information office is located at the Alexa Shopping Centre near Alexanderplatz. There is a Berlin Info Store, Grunerstrasse 20, Ground Floor, open Monday to Saturday 1000 to 2200, Sunday 1100 to 1500, extended hours April to October. The City of Berlin provides online information (website: www.berlin.de), some of it in English. Passes Berlin Tourismus Marketing offers the WelcomeCard, (website: www.berlin-welcomecard.de) which gives discounts on museums and attractions (including Schloss Sanssouci and Zoologischer Garten) as well as guided tours, boat trips and performances in both Berlin and Potsdam. The pass is available for 48 or 72 hours and covers one adult and up to three children. Also included in the price is unlimited travel on all buses and trains in zones A, B and C. The card can be purchased at tourist offices, transit ticket offices and some hotels. There is also the SchauLUST Museen Berlin three-day tourist pass, which gives free admission to more than 70 museums, including the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, the Pergamon Museum and Gemldegalerie. The pass is available at the main tourist offices. A day pass for all of the region's Prussian palaces and gardens can be purchased at Schloss Sanssouci. Key Attractions Potsdamer Platz and the New Centre After lying desolate for decades, except for the platform that allowed Westerners to peer over the Wall into the East, Potsdamer Platz is again part of Berlin's thriving centre - in the 1930s, it was the busiest square in Europe. In just a few years, the forest of cranes has given way to a new precinct full of shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment venues. The best place to see it all (as well as terrific views over the rest of Berlin) is from the Panorama-Point, at the top of the Kollhof building, reached by what is claimed to be one of the fastest lifts in Europe. One of the more interesting constructions is the Sony Centre, with its piazza covered by a futuristic sail-like roof. On the ground floor is the Filmmuseum Berlin, which recalls some of the city's great achievements in the early days of cinema and devotes considerable space to Marlene Dietrich. Potsdamer Platz Filmmuseum Berlin Potsdamer Strasse 2

Tel: (030) 300 9030. Website: www.filmmuseum-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2000. Admission charge. Panorama-Point Potsdamer Platz Tel: (030) 2529 4372. Website: www.panoramapunktotsdamerplatz.de Opening hours: Daily 1100-1930. Admission charge. Reichstag British architect Norman Foster has transformed the Reichstag, which was built at the end of the 19th century and has long since been emblematic of the German State. It was damaged in the fire of 1933, which marked Hitler's consolidation of power, and has now been renovated for the Bundestag (People's Assembly) of a reunited Germany. The dome is meant to symbolise the transparency of the democratic government and visitors can pass between its layers to witness the decision-making chamber of the government. There are free hourly talks on the visitor's gallery of the plenary during weeks when parliament is not in session - check this on the website and book in advance. Talks in English take place at 1200 on Tuesdays. Guided tours of the Reichstag also take place when parliament is not sitting. They last 90 minutes and are held at 1030, 1330, 1530 and 1830. Booking in advance in writing is recommended. The walk through the dome itself is stunning, culminating in sweeping views of the city. The rooftop restaurant (tel: (030) 2262 9933) provides a way to beat the queues. Platz der Republik Tel: (030) 2270. Website: www.bundestag.de Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400 (last admission 2200). Free admission. Berlin Wall Much of the Wall or the 'Anti-Fascist Protection Rampart', as the GDR (German Democratic Republic) authorities liked to call it, has succumbed - first to enthusiastic revellers and souvenir hunters and then more significantly to developers; only a few sections remain. The East Side Gallery (website: www.eastsidegallery.com), along Mhlenstrasse (S-Bahn Ostbahnhof), emerged in the post-Wall years as a poignant symbol of new hope, as it was covered with inspiring artwork. The Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer is a small graffiti-free stretch of the Wall that has been preserved by the authorities. A visitor centre has information about the Wall years, while a chapel is dedicated to the 80 or so victims that died trying to cross it. Perhaps the best place to get a sense of what the divided city was like is the Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, located next to the site where the famous border-crossing stood. A number of permanent exhibitions document the history of the Wall and place it into context, as well as record the famous paintings on the Western side of the division. A short walk from Checkpoint Charlie is the Topographie des Terrors, an informative open-air exhibition focused around a preserved section of wall and the former headquarters of the SS and Gestapo (demolished). Torture and suffering is documented, and an audio tour in English is available. Gedenksttte Bernauer Strasse 111 Website: www.the-berlin-wall.de or www.berlinermauer.de Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700 (visitors centre). Free admission.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Mauermuseum) Friedrichstrasse 43-45 Tel: (030) 253 7250. Website: www.mauer-museum.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200. Admission charge. Topographie des Terrors Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 Tel: (030) 2548 6703. Website: www.topographie.de Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000 (May-Sep); 1000-dark (Oct-Apr). Free admission. Unter den Linden and the Museumsinsel One of Berlin's most recognisable landmarks, the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), stands at the western end of Pariser Platz. Stretching eastwards from here is Unter den Linden, along which some of the city's richest cultural treasures lie. These include the Deutsche Staatsoper (German State Opera), the Neue Wache (New Guardhouse), which is now a memorial to the victims of fascism and tyranny, and the Zeughaus (Arsenal), which houses the Deutsches Historisches Museum (German Historical Museum). The Museumsinsel (Museum Island), at the eastern end of Unter den Linden, offers the Pergamonmuseum, containing a host of antiquities, including the enormous Pergamon altar, Bodemuseum and the massive, neo-baroque Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), opened in 1905 and recently renovated. Within the refurbished Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) is the 'Galerie der Romantik', a large collection of German and Austrian paintings from the first half of the 19th century. These include paintings by Caspar David Friedrich. There are also Impressionist works by Manet, Monet and Degas. The Altes Museum (Old Museum) is a striking neoclassical building, designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, which opened in 1830. The main floor houses a collection of antiquities, while the upstairs galleries house the collections of the Egyptian Museum, which will remain there until 2009 when they will move to the Neues Museum (currently being refurbished). It is possible to buy a joint ticket for all of the Museum Island museums. Altes Museum Am Lustgarten Tel: (030) 2090 5577 (recorded info) or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free for last four hours on Thurs. Deutsches Historisches Museum Unter den Linden 2 Tel: (030) 203 040. Website: www.dhm.de Opening times: Daily 1000-1800. Admission charge. Pergamonmuseum Am Kupfergraben Tel: (030) 2090 5577 or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de

Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge. Alte Nationalgalerie Bodestrasse Tel: (030) 2090 5577 or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge. Judische Museum (Jewish Museum) The striking design of this Daniel Libeskind-designed memorial to Jewish life in Berlin is based on a shattered Star of David. Even before the installation of the permanent exhibits (recalling the life and history of German Jews through the centuries), visitors came to experience the evocative spaces within this incredible structure. Lindenstrasse 9-14 Tel: (030) 2599 3300. Website: www.juedisches-museum-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-2000, Mon 1000-2200; closed on Jewish holidays. Admission charge. Schloss Charlottenburg and museums The Charlottenburg Palace was built in 1699, as a summer residence for Sophie Charlotte, the wife of King Frederick 11. Visits to the Old Palace are by guided tour only. Prices and hours vary for the New Wing, the Orangerie, the mausoleum and other parts of the complex. The museums and galleries that are in and around the palace include the Berggruen Collection, opposite the palace, which contains 100 artworks by Picasso, as well as a representative collection of his contemporaries. Schloss Charlottenburg Spandauer Damm 10-22 Tel: (030) 320 911. Website: www.spsg.de Opening hours: Old Palace: Tues-Sun 0900-1700, last tour at 1600; Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Apr-Oct); New Wing: 1100-1700 (Nov-Apr); grounds open daily 0600-2100 (summer); daily 0600-2000 (winter). Admission charge. Museum Berggruen Westlicher Stlerbau, Schlossstrasse 1 Tel: (030) 3267 4811. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. Kulturforum (Cultural Forum) Located in the west of the city, the Kulturforum is a cultural centre, grouping together all the museums that have European art as their chief focus, including a Musikinstrumenten-museum (Musical Instrument Museum), a hall for chamber music and the Philharmonie concert house, home to the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra. The opening of the Gemldegalerie (Painting Gallery) in 1998 brought a stunning collection of 13th- to 18th-century paintings to the site. It joined the Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) and the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). The latter, built to the designs of Mies van der Rohe, contains German Expressionist and Realist art, as well as other works of the 20th century. There is also a sculpture garden.

Philharmonie und Kammermusiksaal Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 1 Tel: (030) 2548 8999 (ticket hotline). Website: www.berlin-philharmonic.com Opening hours: Shows generally Fri-Sun 1600 and 2000 (depending on programme); guided tours daily 1300. Admission charge. Musikinstrumenten-museum Tiergartenstrasse 1 Tel: (030) 254 810. Website: www.sim.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri 0900-1700, Thurs until 2200, Sat and Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Gemldegalerie Kulturforum, Matthikirchplatz 4-6 Tel: (030) 266 2951 (information). Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Kunstgewerbemuseum (closed second quarter of 2008-August 2009) Kulturforum, Herbert-von-Karajan St 10 Tel: (030) 266 2951 (information). Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat and Sun 1100-1800. Admission charge. Neue Nationalgalerie Kulturforum, Potsdamer Strasse 50 Tel: (030) 266 2951. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Centrum Judaicum - Neue Synagogue (Jewish Centre - New Synagogue) The Neue Synagogue was completed in 1866. Its location in the heart of the Scheunenviertel (Berlin's Jewish district) suffered serious bomb damage in 1943. Thanks to renovation in the mid 1990s, its Moorish dome can now be seen in its original glory. The synagogue houses a Jewish Centre, with an exhibition. The Alter Jdischer Friedhof (Old Jewish Cemetery) is a short walk away, at Schnhauser Allee 23-25 (open Monday to Thursday 0800 to 1600 and Friday 0800 to 1300). Oranienburger Strasse 28-30 Tel: (030) 8802 8300. Website: www.cjudaicum.de Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri 1000-1400 (Oct-Mar); Sun and Mon 1000-2000, Tues-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri 1000-1700 (Apr-Sep); closed on Jewish holidays; guided tours Sun 1400 and 1600, Wed 1600. Dome closed Oct-Mar. Admission charge. Shopping For years, the Kurfrstendamm or Ku'damm for short was the place to shop in Berlin, with names such

as Yves St Laurent and Jil Sander. This elegant boulevard of shops and department stores also has designer boutiques and shopping passages tucked down its side streets, particularly around the U-Bahn Uhlandstrasse station and along Fasanenstrasse where you can find chic designer stores like Chanel. The Europa-Center is also unmistakable, as it has a large revolving Mercedes-Benz symbol on its roof. The most famous address is Kaufhaus des Westens or KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, the largest department store in Europe - its food hall is enormous. However, the West's pre-eminence for Berlin shoppers is facing challenges from the revitalised areas of East Berlin. Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse have both blossomed since reunification, with boutiques, designer outlets such as Gucci and department stores such as Quartier 206 and the Galeries Lafayette shopping centre. Even this is changing with the completion of ALEXA, the new five-level shopping and leisure centre at Grunerstrasse 20 and the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden shopping mall which are luring away shoppers from other, more established areas. Also in the East are the boutiques and individual shops in the Hackesche Hofe, Weinmesterstrasse and the many galleries in the Scheunenviertel, just to the north. For innovative clothing, Heckmannhfe, Oranienburger Strasse 32, is the place for shoppers to head, with the likes of Hut Up, with its bold woollens, Nix, with its urban chic, and Sterling Gold, with its array of weird and wonderful second-hand cocktail and evening dresses. There is even a shop devoted to the Ampelmann, Rosenthaler Strasse, East Berlin's 'walk/don't walk' man. Other areas worth exploring are around Rosenhote, Alte Schonhaustrasse and Neue Schonhaustrasse. For markets, there is the traditional fruit and vegetable market at Winterfeldtplatz, open Wednesday and Saturday 0800 to 1300. You can find more interesting objects at the Trdelmarkt (Flea Market) and Arts and Crafts Market, along Strasse des 17 Juni, open Saturday and Sunday 1100 to 1700. Shops in Berlin can choose their own opening hours. However they are generally open Monday to Saturday 0900/1000 to 2000, and some Sundays. Smaller shops might close a little earlier, especially on Saturdays. The VAT rate in Germany is 19% on regular goods and Visitors from outside the EU can reclaim a portion of that on goods worth over 25.

Melbourne Mini Guide

A lively cosmopolitan city, located on the magnificent Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne is the state capital and cultural heart of Victoria. The locals' claim that it is the best city in the world to live in' may rankle their rivals in Sydney but few would dispute that it is indeed a scintillating place to visit. In fact, the traditional rivalry between Melbourne and Sydney, which covers every sphere of life from business to sport, has resulted in a proud, dynamic city that strives for excellence in all things. The city is situated on either side of the Yarra River and the area was originally home to Aborigines for thousands of years. The waterway attracted British settlers, who founded the Port Phillip Settlement of the Colony of New South Wales in 1835. In 1851, a separate colony was carved out of New South Wales and named Victoria, after Queen Victoria, and Melbourne was named after the British prime minister, Lord Melbourne. That same year gold was discovered near Ballarat and Bendigo, to the west of Melbourne, and the ensuing gold rush turned the city into a powerful financial centre, as well as the first political capital, until Canberra was established in 1927. Numerous gardens and parks give a pleasant, open feel to the city, whose skyline mixes elegant spires with dazzling modern skyscrapers, which dwarf the elegant Victorian-era buildings that are dotted along leafy streets. However, the city is defined more by its diverse population than by its architecture. Immigration at the end of WWII transformed Melbourne into a thriving cultural melting pot, totalling over 3 million people, with sizeable Italian, Greek and Chinese communities each carving out their own quarter. In fact, large-scale immigration has made Melbourne home to the biggest Greek community outside Greece and the influx of immigrants from a wide array of countries has contributed to Melbourne's claim to be the cultural capital of Australia. The introduction of European and Asian communities has resulted in an eclectic and energetic blend of theatre, music, art and literature. The international population has also brought a wealth of different cuisine, served up in a glorious range of restaurants, from the breezy outdoor cafes along the Crown Promenade overlooking the Yarra River, to the buzzing pizzerias in Carlton, the colourful Chinese eateries in Chinatown and the fine seafood restaurants in trendy St Kilda Beach, just a half-hour tram ride from the city centre.

One topic that is almost always discussed over a meal is the weather. The city has four distinct seasons and usually enjoys a pleasant, temperate climate. However, winters do get cold and summers see some very hot days. Indeed, sometimes, all four seasons may occur in one day!

City Statistics Location: Victoria, Australia.

Dialling code: 61. Population: 3,744,373 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from first Sunday in October to first Sunday in April). Electricity: 240/250 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 26C (79F). Average July temperatures:13C (55F). Annual rainfall: 655mm (25.8 inches).

Sightseeing
Melbourne has a lot of places to visit throughout the metropolitan area and is also an ideal city for visitors to stroll around. The central business district has a stunning skyline with some intriguing modern architecture. One of the latest examples of this is the enormous and controversial civic hub Federation Square, with its rolling paved courtyard, strange design, galleries, bars and restaurants. However, aficionados of Australian colonial history will only have to walk through the city to discover many examples of Victorian buildings nestling among the skyscrapers or dotted throughout the suburbs. The ironwork decorating the mansions and business houses testifies to the affluence brought to the city during the gold rush. Many examples can be found along Collins Street - number 333, an imposing building that opened in 1891, is famous for its

sublime domed ceiling and equally as extravagant interior, which reflects Melbourne's golden heyday. The Block Arcade shopping centre, also on Collins Street, is a gracious Victorian building and the Old Royal Mint, on William Street, is also a particularly fine example. Close to Bourke Street Mall and Swanston Walk are eclectic narrow lanes and arcades with a mix of colourful bars, chic clubs, aromatic coffee houses and elegant arcades. Melbourne's parks and gardens largely reflect their British heritage. A perfect example is Fitzroy Gardens, laid out to represent the Union Jack. Close by, the delightful Treasury Gardens are home to the Old Treasury Building, while to the north is Parliament House, which is open to the public when parliament is not in session. Carlton Gardens is home to the Melbourne Museum and the adjacent Royal Exhibition Building, built for the 1880 Great Exhibition and based on Crystal Palace in London. This is where Australia's parliament sat from 1901 until 1927. Kings Domain, south of Yarra River, is a pleasant park housing the Sidney Myer Music Bowl, Government House, the Old Melbourne Observatory and Latrobe's Cottage. Further afield, the colonial mansions of Como House, in South Yarra, and Werribee Park, in Werribee, both have pretty formal gardens - the latter contains the Victoria State Rose Garden. Chinatown is located at the eastern end of Little Bourke Street and has been situated there since the start of the gold rush. The narrow lanes are packed with Chinese restaurants and supermarkets. The Chinese Museum, Cohen Place, is worth a visit to learn about the contribution the Chinese community has made to the growth of Melbourne. Tourist Information Melbourne Visitor Centre Federation Square, corner of Swanston Street and Flinders Street Tel: (03) 9658 9658. Website: www.visitmelbourne.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. The Melbourne Visitor Centre also operates an information booth in Bourke Street Mall. Passes The See Melbourne & Beyond Smartvisit Card (tel: 1300 661 711, in Australia only;

website: www.seemelbournecard.com) offers free admission to over 60 attractions in and around Melbourne. One-, two- and three-day passes are available either online or from the Melbourne Visitor Centre. Key Attractions Old Melbourne Gaol The Old Melbourne Gaol was established in 1841 and expanded rapidly during the gold rush. The jail was the setting for 136 hangings, most famously for that of Ned Kelly in 1880. Exhibits include a collection of death masks, the scaffold where Ned Kelly was hung, his gun, and a suit of armour worn by a member of his gang. The jail closed its gates to inmates in 1929. Russell Street Tel: (03) 8663 7228. Website: www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Admission charge. Eureka Skydeck 88 Eureka Tower is the world's highest apartment building with a staggering 92 storeys. Its 88th floor, known as Eureka Skydeck 88, is a stunning observatory deck (open to the public) which boasts breathtaking 360-degree views of the city and its environs. 7 Riverside Quay, Southbank Tel: (03) 9693 8888. Website: www.skydeck.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-2130. Admission charge. Federation Square Designed as an architectural icon in a city that loves modern architecture, Federation Square is a complete new city block, bringing together social, cultural and commercial activities. Highlights include The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, which showcases works of art by Australian artists (including Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art), and the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI). The odd-looking geometricdesigned buildings and the extensive rolling-hill paved plaza are attractions in themselves though. Corner of Swanston Street and Flinders Street (opposite Flinders Street Station)

Tel: (03) 9655 1900. Website: www.federationsquare.com.au Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Royal Botanic Gardens The Royal Botanic Gardens, located just 2km (1.2 miles) south of the city, off St Kilda Road are among the best gardens in Australia. There are more than 40 hectares (99 acres) of careful plantings, native and foreign trees and shrubs, a delightful herb garden, and plenty of chirping birds. Free guided walks are conducted Tuesday to Sunday at 1100 and 1400, each taking between 60 to 90 minutes. Birdwood Avenue, South Yarra Tel: (03) 9252 2300. Website: www.rbg.vic.gov.au Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800 (Apr, Sep and Oct); daily 0730-1730 (May-Aug ); daily 0730-2030 (Nov-Mar). Free admission. Melbourne Observation Deck Although no longer offering the highest observation point in Melbourne (that honour now goes to Eureka Tower's Skydeck 88, described above) this is still a top spot to peer over the city. Located on level 55 of one of the tallest office buildings in the southern hemisphere, the Melbourne Observation Deck offers 360-degree panoramic views of Melbourne and the surrounding areas. The facilities also include a licensed cafe-bar. A 20-minute film about the city is included with admission. 525 Collins Street Tel: (03) 9629 8222. Website: www.melbournedeck.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission charge. National Gallery of Victoria International NGV International showcases Australia's finest collection of international art. Among the paintings usually on display here are offerings by Gainsborough, Constable, Bonnard, Delacroix, Monet and Rembrandt. There are also excellent temporary exhibitions (see website for current details). The building is a work of art in itself.

180 St Kilda Road Tel: (03) 8620 2222. Website: www.ngv.vic.gov.au Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700, closed Tues. Free admission. Melbourne Museum Australia's largest museum boasts an indoor rainforest, a giant Rubik's-cube-shaped Children's Museum, the Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre, and assorted displays featuring dinosaurs, insects and much, much more. The museum has both permanent and temporary exhibitions (see website for details). The stuffed horse in the glass case is Phar Lap, Australia's most famous racing horse. 11 Nicholson Street, Carlton Tel: (03) 8341 7777 or 1300 130 152, in Australia only. Website: http://melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. Melbourne Cricket Ground The Melbourne Cricket Ground, or MCG, is the world-famous venue for numerous national and international cricket matches. It also hosts many Aussie Rules (Australian Football League; AFL) games, including the Grand Final in September. The ground is open for guided tours and contains the Australian Cricket Hall of Fame and National Sports Museum. Yarra Park, Jolimont Tel: (03) 9657 8888. Website: www.mcg.org.au Opening hours: Guided tours available daily 1000-1500 half-hourly, except on match days. Admission charge. Melbourne Zoo The award-winning Melbourne Zoo, Australia's oldest zoo, houses more than 300 animal species from within and beyond Australia. There is an African rainforest with gorillas, orangutans, hippos and big cats, as well as a particularly impressive butterfly house and a bushland exhibit, which is home to many of Australia's native wildlife species.

Elliot Avenue, Parkville Tel: (03) 9285 9300. Website: www.zoo.org.au Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission charge. Rippon Lea Estate Designed in 1868, this is the last of Australia's great privately owned 19th-century suburban estates. The mansion boasts opulent interiors, including elaborate embossed wallpaper and beautiful stained glass, and has lovely landscaped gardens, which include a conservatory, lake, orchard, and extensive flowerbeds and shrubbery. 192 Hotham Street, Elsternwick Tel: (03) 9523 6095. Website: www.ripponleaestate.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. Shopping A large number of shopping arcades and markets are spread throughout the city. Some of the arcades are architectural masterpieces in their own right. Melbourne Central, La Trobe Street, has a magnificent glass cone covering the famous Shot Tower, the only feature remaining from the Lead Pipe & Shot Factory. There are over 200 shops, including many Australian designer outlets. The Block Arcade, Collins Street, one of Melbourne's main shopping streets, is a grand Victorian building. This is reflected in the shops that sell elegant leatherwear, glassware and couture. Nearby is the Royal Arcade, which features antique and gift shops. Myer, on Lonsdale Street (scheduled to shift to Bourke Street around 2010), is a city institution established over 80 years ago and one of the biggest single department stores in Australia. Nearby is David Jones, a well-regarded department store noted for its tempting food hall. Meanwhile, the Crown Entertainment Complex, at Southbank, houses swish boutiques selling the likes of Burberry, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Versace. Many of the city's department stores stock typically Australian products and some of the best goods to look out for are woollen garments, bush gear, handcrafted jewellery (particularly opals), woodwork design and ceramics. The exclusive shops along Toorak Road offer the latest designer labels, while many young, independent designers have outlets on Chapel Street. Shoppers with more

bohemian tastes will find Brunswick Street in Fitzroy a veritable Aladdin's cave of clothing shops and gift and book stores. The cake shops of St Kilda, a traditional German Jewish area, are marvels to behold. The bayside suburb also features interesting bookshops and trendy cafes. Melbourne has a number of markets located throughout the city, although the most outstanding is the Queen Victoria Market, on the corner of Victoria Street and Elizabeth Street. This market was traditionally a place to buy foodstuffs but it is now possible to buy almost anything in the various halls and quaint shops. The market is open Tuesday and Thursday 0600-1400, Friday 0600-1800, Saturday 0600-1500 and Sunday 09001600. Standard opening hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1700 with late-night opening on Fridays and, in many cases, Thursdays until 2100. Many major department stores and shopping centres are also open on Sundays and a growing number of supermarkets are now open 24 hours a day. Australia has a 10% Goods and Services Tax. Price tags always include GST. There are several duty-free shops in the city centre, as well as at the airport.

Sydney Mini Guide

Vibrant Sydney is the epitome of the Australian surf and sand. Carved out of sandstone headlands with golden beaches and world-class surf, this sun-soaked city offers the ultimate in outdoor living. At the heart of the city is the harbour, arguably one of the most beautiful waterways in the world, where the curves of the Sydney Opera House shimmer in the sunlight and dozens of white sails float beneath the Harbour Bridge. The state capital of New South Wales, Sydney is Australia's oldest and largest city and is regarded by many (particularly Sydneysiders) as the country's capital in all but name. It's a thriving centre for both business and the arts with a buzzing cafe culture, a vibrant nightlife, and a restaurant scene fit to rival the most gastronomic destinations. Take a dip in the ocean at Bondi Beach or stretch your legs along the coastal walk to Coogee. Learn to surf at Manly, swim laps at Icebergs pool, kayak around the harbour, catch some rays along the northern beaches or go bush in one of the national parks.

But there is a lot more to Sydney. Museums, galleries, theatres and concert venues should satisfy those seeking more intellectual pursuits. History lovers will enjoy The Rocks, where Sydney's sordid beginnings as a British penal colony remain, and further downtown grand Victorian structures sit side by side modern monoliths in glass and steel. Sydney's Aboriginal heritage has been eclipsed by Australia's white history. Although Sydney has the highest Aboriginal population of any Australia city, a stroll around the city streets offers little evidence of their existence and they remain very much an invisible minority. The city's busy social calendar means that at almost any time of year, a festival is underway. The summer months host numerous sporting events as well as film, art and theatre festivals but pick any month of the year and you're almost guaranteed to witness some sort of celebration. Locals have long argued that Sydney is the city that has it all but it was only following the triumphant hosting of the 2000 Olympic Games that the rest of the world sat up and took notice. City Statistics

Location: New South Wales, Australia. Dialling code: 61. Population: 4,444,500 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from first Sunday in October to first Sunday in April). Average January temperatures: 23C (73F). Average July temperatures: 12C (54F). Annual rainfall: 1,214mm (48.2 inches).

Sightseeing
Sydney has the most magnificent harbour in the world. Its intricate coastal geography of headlands and secluded bays is the stunning setting for two of the modern world's most ambitious architectural achievements - the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney

Harbour Bridge. It's not surprising then that much of the tourist attention is focused on the harbour and its surrounds. The Rocks forms the historical backbone of the city and a day spent wandering these old-world streets is a must. Circular Quay buzzes throughout the day with visitors, buskers and locals hopping on and off the ferries on their way to and from work. The central business district (CBD) holds remains of its Victorian past with grand banking chambers and intricate shopping arcades. Further afield, the areas of Surry Hills, Darlinghurst and Paddington are cosmopolitan communities, each with their own distinct feel and character. Surry Hills is a colourful neighbourhood lined with cafes and boutiques, while Darlinghurst comes alive every March for the world-famous Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade. Paddington has a more genteel feel, with its fashionable restaurants, galleries, antique shops and restored Victorian terraces complete with wrought-iron lace verandas. Another area worth exploring is Kings Cross. Although traditionally renowned for its red light district it boasts a bustling cafe society and some excellent restaurants. Tourist Information Sydney Visitor Centre Corner Argyle and Playfair Streets, The Rocks or 33 Wheat Road, Darling Harbour Tel: (02) 9240 8788 or 1800 067 676, in Australia only. Website: www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730. Passes

The All Day Pass & Tower & Aquarium package from Captain Cook Cruises incorporates entry to Sydney Aquarium, Sydney Tower and a hop-on, hop-off harbour cruise departing from Circular Quay. Tickets are available from any of these attractions. Key Attractions
Sydney Opera House In April of 1966, the architect of the Sydney Opera House, Jrn Utzon, left Australia, never to return. His grand architectural vision was only half completed, but arguments with the state government over the spiralling cost of the project meant that other architects were employed to complete the interior complex of auditoria, theatres, restaurants and bars. In spite of its compromised genesis, the building instantly became

a world icon upon opening in 1973. Utzon has never seen the completed building but in recent years has collaborated on a A$70 million interior refurbishment (due for completion in 2009) that will bring the building closer to his original vision - including a 14m- (46ft-) long tapestry installed in September 2004. The four main auditoria (the Concert Hall, the Playhouse, the Opera Theatre and the Drama Theatre) stage a total of 3,000 performances per year. Bennelong Point, Circular Quay Tel: (02) 9250 7111. Website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (tours); Mon-Sat 0900-2030 (box office), plus two hours before Sun show. Admission charge. Sydney Harbour Bridge Affectionately known as the Coathanger', the Sydney Harbour Bridge is a feat of engineering genius. It took 1,400 workers (16 of whom died in the process) eight years to complete at a cost of A$20 million finally opening in 1932. The best way to experience the bridge is to climb it and the Bridge Climb gives thrill-seekers the chance to walk to the top of the 50-storey-high bridge (over the cars and trains rumbling across the deck below) and down the other side. Paul Crocodile Dundee' Hogan, a bridgepainter in a former lifetime, was one of the first to climb the bridge. A second bridge climb recently opened, the Discovery Climb, which gives visitors a look at the inner workings of the bridge with a tour through the heart of the enormous steel structure. Pylon Museum and Lookout Access from stairs via Cumberland Street Tel: (02) 9240 1100. Website: www.pylonlookout.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. Bridge Climb 5 Cumberland Street Tel: (02) 8274 7777. Website: www.bridgeclimb.com Opening hours: Daily 0700-2000. Admission charge. The Rocks

Nestled at the foot of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, The Rocks (Sydney's historical birthplace) is a neighbourhood of winding streets, sandstone cottages and some of Sydney's oldest pubs. The site of the first landing from Plymouth, England in 1788, the area is now a busy tourist enclave with cafes, restaurants, galleries, museums and countless souvenir shops. Among the district's historic buildings are the Hero of Waterloo inn (built over a tunnel that was originally used for smuggling), the Sydney Observatory (on the site of the colony's first windmill), Cadman's Cottage (Sydney's oldest building, built in 1816) and Susannah Place (a museum of working-class life). Other attractions include the Museum of Contemporary Art and The Rocks Toy Museum. The Rocks Website: www.therocks.com Sydney Observatory Watson Road, Observatory Hill Tel: (02) 9217 0485. Website: www.sydneyobservatory.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. Cadman's Cottage 110 George Street Tel: (02) 9247 5033/8861. Website: www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1630, Sat and Sun 1000-1630. Admission charge. Museum of Contemporary Art 140 George Street Tel: (02) 9245 2400. Website: www.mca.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. The Rocks Toy Museum 2-6 Kendall Lane Tel: (02) 9251 9793. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1715. Admission charge.

Susannah Place Museum 58-64 Gloucester Street Tel: (02) 9241 1893. Website: www.hht.net.au Opening hours: Sat and Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Darling Harbour A former dockside area, this small harbour has been transformed into a major tourist site. The vast, paved and landscaped recreation ground is packed with restaurants and shops, as well as a number of tourist attractions. These include the Powerhouse Museum, Australian National Maritime Museum, Sydney Aquarium, IMAX Theatre and the Chinese Garden of Friendship, a gift to Sydney from its sister city of Guangdong in China. Darling Harbour Website: www.darlingharbour.com Powerhouse Museum 500 Harris Street Tel: (02) 9217 0111. Website: www.powerhousemuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge. Australian National Maritime Museum 2 Murray Street Tel: (02) 9298 3777. Website: www.anmm.gov.au Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Admission charge. Sydney Aquarium Aquarium Pier Tel: (02) 8251 7800. Website: www.sydneyaquarium.com.au Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200. Admission charge.

IMAX Theatre Tel: (02) 9281 3300. Website: www.imax.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-2300. Admission charge. Chinese Garden of Friendship Tel: (02) 9281 6863. Website: www.chinesegarden.com.au Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (winter); daily 0930-1730 (summer). Admission charge. Bondi Beach Bondi is one of the world's most famous beaches, a kilometre-long crescent of sand strung between two rocky headlands, just 15 minutes from the city centre. During the summer months families, tourists, locals and out-of-towners jostle for towel space on the beach while the promenade bustles with activity. Campbell Parade serves up a mixture of busy bars, seaside cafes, and the ever-popular Sunday market. Topless sunbathing is tolerated and swimmers should always swim within the patrolled areas marked by the red and yellow flags. The coastal walk, which starts at Bondi's southern end and runs along the coast to Coogee, is a must for any visitor. Campbell Parade, off Bondi Road Website: www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/council/beaches Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Art Gallery of New South Wales Featuring the Yiribana Gallery, the world's largest permanent exhibition of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, the Art Gallery of New South Wales is one of Australia's foremost art museums. Among its most impressive exhibitions is its Australian art collection, extending from the early colonial period to the mid 20th century. The Asian Galleries showcase the gallery's significant Asian collection and touring exhibitions. Shortlisted portraits in the Archibald Prize (Australia's most prestigious and controversial art award) are exhibited here annually. Art Gallery Road, The Domain Tel: (02) 9225 1700. Website: www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au

Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2100. Free admission. Sydney Tower Standing 250m (820ft) above Market Street, Sydney Tower is the city's tallest building and offers views over the city, the harbour, the Olympic Park and as far as Terrigal Beach, 100km (62 miles) to the north. Entry to the observation deck includes the Skytour - a 35-minute virtual tour/ride on the podium level. Thrill-seekers can go one better and take a Skywalk, an outdoor tour on two glass-floored platforms. Corner of Pitt and Market Street Tel: (02) 9333 9222. Website: www.sydneytoweroztrek.com.au Opening hours: Sun-Fri 0900-2230, Sat 0900-2330. Admission charge. Royal Botanic Gardens A short walk from the Opera House, the Royal Botanic Gardens sits on a slope overlooking the harbour and covers 30 hectares (74 acres) in the heart of the city. Established in 1816, it is Australia's oldest scientific institution and home to over one million specimens. Highlights include the Sydney Tropical Centre and the Rose Garden; there is a hop-on hop-off trackless train to get around them all. Macquarie Street (main entrance) Tel: (02) 9231 8111. Website: www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au Opening hours: Daily 0700-sunset. Free admission. Sydney Olympic Park Built on the site of an old rubbish tip, the focal point of the best ever Olympics' in 2000 is now an attraction in its own right, comprising 15 architecturally impressive venues as well as extensive parks and wetlands. Separate guided tours of the venues are given and a self-guided tour brochure is available from the Visitor Gateway or from the website. 1 Herb Elliot Avenue Tel: (02) 9714 7888. Website: www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au

Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Visitor Gateway). Free admission. ANZ Stadium Edwin Flack Avenue Tel: (02) 8765 2000. Opening hours: Tours run daily at 1100, 1230, 1400 and 1530. Admission charge. Observation Centre Level 17, Novotel & Hotel Ibis, Olympic Boulevard, Homebush Bay Tel: (02) 8762 1111. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600. Admission charge. Sydney Aquatic Centre Olympic Boulevard Tel: (02) 9752 3666. Website: www.aquaticcentre.com.au Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0500-2100, Sat-Sun 0600-1900. Admission charge. Bicentennial Park Bennelong Road Tel: (02) 9714 7888. Opening hours: Daily sunrise to sunset. Free admission. Taronga Zoo The most desirable residence in Sydney is inhabited not by the upper echelons of society but by a collection of seals, snow leopards, koalas, kangaroos and wallabies. Taronga Zoo's location, on Bradley's Head, at Mosman, is one of the most beautiful vantage points on Sydney Harbour, situated on elevated land along the waterfront. The zoo is home to over 350 different species of animals, ranging from old time favourites such as elephants, gorillas and giraffes to the more curious inhabitants of the animal kingdom such as the platypus (an animal so odd-looking that when settlers first came across it they thought it was a hoax) and the echidna. There are keepers' talks and shows throughout the day, and the sky safari (cable cars that glide over the zoo to give a bird's-eye perspective) is extremely popular.

Bradleys Head Road (main entrance) Tel: (02) 9969 2777. Website: www.zoo.nsw.gov.au Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission charge. Fox Studios Australia - The Entertainment Quarter Fox Studios generated the principal photography of The Matrix Trilogy (1999/2003), Moulin Rouge (2001), Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002) and Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith (2005). The adjoining Entertainment Quarter boasts shops, markets, cinemas, restaurants, mini golf, bungy trampoline, an indoor children's playground and a music venue. Lang Road, Moore Park Tel: (02) 8117 6700. Website: www.eqmoorepark.com.au Opening hours: Daily 1000-2400. Free admission. Shopping The city's flagship department stores are David Jones, 86-108 Castlereagh Street, and Myer, 436 George Street, where you can pick up Australian and some International labels. Castlereagh Street is considered Sydney's designer row, although this does not take account of prestige stores in Chifley Plaza, 2 Chifley Square, and the MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Place. There are shopping malls galore and two splendid Victorian arcades: the Strand, 412-414 George Street (a good choice for Australian designer labels), and the palatial Queen Victoria Building, 455 George Street, also known as QVB. Market City, Thomas Street, Haymarket, has factory outlets and a large market selling all manner of tourist memorabilia'. There are a growing number of Australian fashion designers making their mark both in Sydney and abroad. Among the most popular are Paris Fashion Week regulars Collette Dinnigan, 33 William Street, Paddington, and Lisa Ho, 2A-6A Queen Street. Hip label Sass & Bide, 132 Oxford Street, Paddington, produces jeans coveted by the stars and Scanlan and Theodore, 122 Oxford Street, Paddington, is a must for stylish work wear and chi-chi evening wear.

It is worth exploring the length of Oxford Street, just to experience the variety of shopping genres, from the camp end at Darlinghurst, past the small fashion stores of Paddington and on into Woollahra and the top-of-the-range antique shops in and around Queen Street. Further still into Bondi Junction leads to Westfield Bondi Junction, an enormous shopping mall housing every type of store imaginable. Darling Harbour, Chinatown and The Rocks historic district are teeming with souvenir and craft shops. The Rocks is also the place for shoppers to pick up gems from the major Australian opal fields. The Rocks Opal Mine, 13 Clocktower Square, and Flame Opals, 119 George Street, both have good selections of stones, as does the downtown Gemstone Boutique, 388 George Street. For pearls from the northwest coast of Australia, Paspaley Pearls, 142 King Street, has some world-class examples. For other Australiana gifts head to the Australian Wine Centre, Shop 3, Goldfields House, 1 Alfred Street, Circular Quay, or Gannon House, 45 Argyle Street, The Rocks, which sells authentic indigenous products that are purchased directly from Aboriginal communities. Gavala, Shop 131, 1st Floor, Harbourside Shopping Centre, Darling Harbour, is 100% Aboriginal-owned and has a wonderful collection of paintings, didgeridoos, boomerangs and more. There are weekend markets at Balmain (Saturday), Paddington (Saturday), Bondi Beach (Sunday), and The Rocks (Sunday) but perhaps the one with the strongest local flavour is the Sydney Fish Market, open daily 0700-1600, in Pyrmont, offering over 100 species of the freshest seafood in addition to sushi bars and fish cafes. Shop opening hours are generally Monday to Saturday 0900-1800, with late-night shopping until 2100 on Thursday. Increasingly, shops are opening on Sunday. There is a 10% Goods and Services Tax (GST), which is included on the price tags. There are several duty-free shops in the city centre, as well as at the airport.

Cairo Mini Guide

The Mother of All Cities (as the Egyptians call their capital). The pyramids of Giza, the astonishing gold of Tutankhamen, buried in the dusty upper corridors of the Cairo Museum, the Islamic treasures of bejewelled mosques and sacred places of learning, so much to see. It's no coincidence that

Misr

in Arabic means both Cairo and Egypt. The capital is a magnet that

draws people from the Nile Valley towards the promise of a better life. The city dominates Egypt as it dominates Arabic culture. And what gives it this life blood? It's undoubtedly something to do with the Nile, as it quietly threads through fashionable suburb and island allotment, past the mausoleums of the dead now occupied by the living and alongside luxury hotels and floating palaces of pleasure. City Statistics

Location: Egypt, North Africa. Dialling code: 20. Population: 18-20 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: 2008: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Friday in April to last Friday in August). 2009: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Friday in April to last Friday in September). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are used. Average January temperatures: 17.5C (63.5F); 8C (47F) at night. Average July temperatures: 36.5C (97.7F). Annual rainfall: 25mm (1 inch) per year, usually December to March.

Sightseeing
The Pyramids. Located in Giza, 18km (11 miles) from the city centre, they dominate the skyline of the city's suburbs as they dominate the imagination of everyone. Some sections of the city are attractions in themselves. The narrow streets of Old Cairo, the Coptic quarter and Islamic Cairo are like museums of historical buildings, punctuated by mosques, edged by the city gates and presided over by the citadel. Meanwhile, the Khan al-Khalili, the city's main market (see Shopping), is the place to go to watch the Cairenese about their daily lives - especially from the vantage point of one of the many coffee shops or restaurants hidden in the warren of streets. The Egyptian Museum of Antiquities is at the heart of the city, near Midan Tahrir, or Central Square. Dusty, and dated, this characterful old charmer houses some of the most exquisite artefacts of antiquity. To the north is Bulaq, a district of medieval back streets along the Nile. To the south is Garden City, a tree-lined former British enclave of the wartime years. Another area

worth exploring is the Nile island of Gezira, famed for its opera house and art museums, and for a fashionable area of bars and restaurants known as Zamalek. It is quickest and easiest to take a taxi to the first destination of the day and walk to nearby sights from there. Note that most museums are closed during midday prayers on Fridays, approximately 1130-1330. Tourist Information Egyptian Tourist Authority

5 Sharia Adly, Midan Opera Tel: (02) 391 3454. Website: www.egypt.travel Opening hours: Daily 0830-2000 (0900-1700 during Ramadan). Passes
There are no dedicated tourist discount passes in Cairo. Key Attractions Egyptian Museum of Antiquities With more than 120,000 artefacts spanning Egyptian history from the earliest dynasties to the Roman era, the Egyptian Museum represents the largest collection of its kind in the world. It would take several months to see every exhibit. A minimum of three to four hours is necessary to take in the highlights and, if time allows, the museum is best appreciated on successive half-day visits. The collection was first assembled by the French archaeologist Auguste Mariette in 1858. The top attractions are the Tutankhamun Galleries, which display the gold and gem-inlaid funerary mask and 1,700 other treasures found in the tomb of the Boy King (restricted access), and the Royal Mummy Room, which contains the corpses of 11 of Egypt's most powerful pharaohs including Seti I and his son Ramses II. Room 27 displays intricate models of ancient life on the Nile during the Middle Kingdom, while the Old Kingdom Rooms contain beautiful statues and death masks from Giza and Saqqara. The Akhenaten Room, Jewellery Rooms and animal mummies are also fascinating. Midan Tahrir Tel: (02) 578 2248 or 2452. Website: www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg Admission charge (additional charge for Mummies' Hall); photographic charge. Pyramids of Giza One of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the pyramids of Giza are Egypt's prime tourist attraction. First impressions can disappoint, partly because many visitors find them smaller than anticipated now that the city has begun to engulf the surrounding area, and partly because it's hard to enjoy them without being molested by persistent salesmen. That said, the longer the visit, the more powerful the pyramids become. The Great Pyramid of Cheops was completed in about 2600BC and is the oldest on the site, and the

largest in Egypt. It stands 136.4m (447.5ft) high and is made from an estimated 2.5 million limestone blocks. It was built to house the sarcophagus of King Cheops (or Khufu to give him his proper Egyptian name), although it is not known whether he was ever actually buried here. Nearby are three smaller pyramids built for the king's queens, and beyond are the two other large pyramids, those of Chephren and Mycerinus. Chephren was the son of Cheops and popular belief has it that he had the idea of building the Sphinx, to stand guard by his own tomb and that of his father. Some archaeologists say that this is not the case, and the Sphinx may even be some 2,600 years older than the pyramids themselves. Surrounding the pyramids are many smaller tombs and while there, one should also visit the Solar Boat Museum, which houses a superbly preserved wooden boat found near the Great Pyramid. There are daily sound and light shows (tel: (02) 385 2880), check times for different languages. Pyramid Road, 18km (11 miles) southwest of central Cairo Admission charge. Coptic Museum Situated in a lovely garden within the former Roman fortress of Babylon-in-Egypt, the Coptic Museum features Coptic art from the Christian era (AD300-1000). Among the highlights are the exquisite Coptic textiles, carved ivories, papyri (ancient paper) with text from the Gnostic gospels of Nag Hammadi, and Nubian paintings from the flooded villages of Lake Nassar. The ornate rooms are decorated with beautiful mashrabiyya (carved wood) screens, fountains and painted ceilings. Sharia Mari Girgis, Old Cairo Tel: (02) 363 9742 or 362 8766. Website: www.copticmuseum.gov.eg Admission charge. el-Muallaqa Church (the Hanging Church') Possibly dating back as far as the fourth century, el-Muallaqa is the oldest Christian place of worship in Cairo. It is called the Hanging Church' because it is built on top of a Roman gate and reached by a stairway that leads to the courtyard. The beautiful interior features three barrelvaulted aisles, altar screens of inlaid ivory and bone and an exquisite, carved marble pulpit supported by 13 pillars representing Christ and his disciples. Sharia Mari Girgis, Old Cairo Free admission, donations welcome. Bab Zuwayla The southern gate of Bab Zuwayla is all that remains of the Fatimid city of el-Qahira. Executions took place here in Mamluk times but in the 19th century it acquired a happier reputation when a local saint, Mitwalli, performed miracles near the gate. To this day, people seeking healing nail a lock of hair or piece of clothing to the gate in hopes of receiving divine aid. Rising above the gate are the minarets of the Mosque of el-Muayyad, which offer some of the finest panoramic views in Cairo from the top. The mosque contains a shady courtyard and the mausoleum of the Sultan elMuayyad and his son, who began building the mosque in 1415.

Sharia Darb el-Ahmar, Islamic Cairo Admission charge for the mosque; baksheesh for the minarets. Bayn al-Qasryn In medieval times, Bayn al-Qasryn was the leading public square in Cairo, bustling with market stalls and entertainers. Today, it is lined with three Mamluk palace complexes, which form a harmonious and impressive faade. The finest, the Madrassa and Mausoleum of Qalaun, is also the earliest, completed in 1279. The mausoleum is stunningly decorated with an elaborate stucco arch bearing stars and floral motifs, ornate coffered ceilings and stained glass. The Mausoleum of anNasir Mohammed (1304) and the Madrassa and Khanqah of Sultan Barquq (1386) also boast fine architecture and decoration. Incidentally, a madrassa is a theological school, while a khanqah is a monastery. Sharia el-Muizz, Islamic Cairo Admission charge. Bayt el-Suhaymi Behind an unassuming facade is one of Cairo's finest houses, Bayt el-Suhaymi. Dating from the Ottoman era, it offers a glimpse of the lifestyle of well-to-do merchants during the 16th and 17th centuries. The maze of rooms on different levels feature an ornate first-floor harem with mashrabiyya screens overlooking the garden and an impressive ground-floor reception room where men were entertained with music and dancers. 19 Haret Darb el-Asfar, Islamic Cairo Admission charge. Citadel (el-Qal'a) Nothing remains of Salah ad-Din's original 12th-century palace but the mosques and palaces atop this limestone outcrop reflect 700 years of Cairo history. The fortifications were first built to repel the Crusaders and became the royal residence for sultans well into the 19th century. The Mohammed Ali Mosque, with its huge central dome and four semi-domes, towers over the city. The enclosure also contains the Mosque of al-Nasir, Yusuf's Well and several small museums. The views over Cairo from the Citadel are outstanding. Islamic Cairo Admission charge. Gayer-Anderson House (Bayt el-Kritliya) The Gayer-Anderson House was the home of an English doctor to the royal family, who lived here from 1935-42. He restored two 16th-century houses, joined them together and filled them with exquisite decoration, furniture and oriental objects. The mashrabiyya-screened women's gallery overlooks the magnificent reception room with its central fountain, arguably the finest in Cairo. 4 Midan Ahmed Ibn Tulun, Islamic Cairo

Admission charge. Ibn Tulun Mosque Of all the mosques in Cairo, this is the one that should not be missed. Completed in 879, it is the oldest intact mosque in the city. The huge structure, built of mud-brick and wood, covers 2.4 hectares (6 acres) but is simple in decor. It is a unique example in Cairo of classical Islamic architecture inspired by Iraqi models, having been built by Ibn Tulin, who was sent to rule Cairo by the caliph of Baghdad. The pointed arches are the first of their kind. The views from the top of the spiral minaret are magnificent. Sharia el-Salibah, Islamic Cairo Admission charge. Islamic Art Museum This museum houses one of the world's largest and finest collections of Islamic art, dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries. The rooms contain carved woodwork and columns, mosaic fountains, metalwork and other architectural exhibits salvaged from crumbling mosques and mausoleums throughout Egypt. Some of the finest pieces are located in the central hall. Midan Ahmad Mahir (Bab el-Khalq), Port Said Street, Islamic Cairo Tel: (02) 390 1520. Admission charge. Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Covering 7,900 sq m (85,000 sq ft), this is one of the largest mosques in the world and the finest early Mamluk structure in Cairo. It was built between 1356 and 1363 and encompasses a stunning courtyard, four madrassas (theology schools) and a mausoleum flanked by huge doors. Visitors should go in the morning when the sun lights up the dark mausoleum. Sharia el-Qal'a, Islamic Cairo Admission charge. Shopping Shopping can be great fun in Cairo, whether for an everyday souvenir or for something a little more valuable. Painted papyrus scrolls, often embellished with hieroglyphics, are popular and perhaps a little more tasteful than stuffed camels or models of the pyramids. Egypt may be rich in antiquities, but it is not rich enough to supply the thousands of vendors who will sidle up to visitors offering a furtive glimpse of a genuine antique'. In any case, it is illegal to export genuine antiquities without a licence. Among the items that do make attractive legal souvenirs are jewellery, perfume, leather goods, brass and copper items, and herbs and spices. Almost anything can be found in the city's main market, the Khan al-Khalili in Islamic Cairo. While this is on every tour itinerary and there will be hundreds of shopkeepers and touts to deal with on arrival, it is a vast place and most visitors do not venture into its interior, where the local people do their own shopping. Silks, jewellery, spices

and hand-made gellibayas (long robes) make good purchases, as do perfumes from the Perfume Bazaar area. Many French perfume houses source their supplies from Egypt, and in the bazaar pure essential oils are for sale. The Street of the Coppersmiths (An-Nahassin) is naturally the place to go to find a good choice of brass and copperware. Large engraved brass trays are popular and can be bought complete with a wooden stand to turn them into a coffee table. More easily transported are cups, bowls, plates and ornamental trays. Gold and silver are widely available and not expensive, provided you bargain the price down a little (see below). However, local taste tends towards the gaudy or the mock-ancient, incorporating hieroglyphs, pharoah's heads and scarab beetles, so it may be a hunt to find something more unusual. In addition to the Khan al-Khalili, the jewellery shops on Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat and on Sharia al-Muizz li-Din Allah are good bets. This latter is in the Souq as-Sagha, or Goldsmith's Bazaar. Normal opening hours for shops are Monday to Saturday from about 0900 to 2000 but in summer they close between roughly 1230 and 1600. Tourist shops often stay open later. Haggling is a way of life, especially in the bazaars, and visitors should not be afraid to try. Prices are inflated for visitors anyway but remember that it is meant to be fun - not a fight to the death. If the final price is between half and two-thirds of the original asking price, then both parties should be happy.

AMSTERDAM MINI GUIDE Amsterdam is a city like Venice founded on and still today focused around water and waterways. However, unlike Venice, Holland's largest city is not only a museum piece. In the canals beneath the stag parties and working girls, young Internet entrepreneurs strike deals across Europe from their houseboats and just outside the old core is the RAI, one of the continent's key conference and business hubs. As well as the chugging canal boats, the city's waterways also increasingly play home to massive cruise ships and cargo vessels from all over the world. The lifeblood of Amsterdam has long been its aquatic locale, close as it is to the North Sea and built on countless canals, which divide the city into easily navigable districts and fill it with a small town ambience. There seems to be a canal around every corner in Amsterdam - not too surprising, considering that the city is home to a staggering 165 of them (more than Venice). Amsterdam is a haven for many nationalities, various sexualities and people of radically different political and religious beliefs, but cracks are starting to appear and immigration laws have tightened in recent years as some of the city's eclectic communities have become more and more divided. There is still tolerance when it comes to man's vices, with practical solutions on how to deal with one of the world's oldest industries and the controlled use of soft drugs. During the summer, the city comes together in Vondelpark, where locals and tourists alike relax in the balmy weather. Amsterdam statistically might be one of Europe's wettest capitals, but as soon as the clouds clear and the sun is allowed to shine, its inhabitants spill out onto the streets to sit in the numerous pavement cafs, take a cruise on a canal or even to partake in that most ubiquitous of Amsterdam pastimes, riding bicycles (the city has more than double the number of bikes as it has people). Amsterdam's winters tend to be cold with plenty of rain but this seldom seems to deter the tourists, who flock to the city. Particularly cold winters also offer the unique chance for visitors to witness Amsterdammers skating across the picturesquely frozen canals. These days, with plenty of rail, bus and air connections to all over Europe and further afield, the Dutch capital is a year-round tourist destination as well as one of the world's key business hubs. City Statistics Location: Noord-Holland, The Netherlands. Dialling code: 31. Population: 743,027 (city); 1,209,419 (metropolitan area) (2006). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC (moving at the rate of one volt per year towards the European standard of 230 volts), 50Hz; two-pin European-style plugs are in use. Average January temperatures: 3C (36F). Average July temperatures: 17C (61F). Annual rainfall: 804mm (31.5 inches). Sightseeing Amsterdam is perfect for sightseeing as it is flat and compact, making it easy to walk around. The best way for visitors to get a real feel for the city is to head straight out on a canal tour, something that many locals have never done, or enjoy a cycle, though beware cycling here can be a frightening experience if you are not used to city cycling. Most of the main attractions are located within the historical core, usually within walking distance of

each other, although the efficient tram and bus networks are close at hand for attractions further afield. The most visited sites in the city are the many excellent museums, such as the Rijksmuseum, Anne Frank Museum, Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art, Van Gogh Museum, the NEMO Museum and the Scheepvaartmuseum. Away from these busy places, the city is also blessed with quiet canals and leafy parks, which provide an escape all year round, especially Vondelpark, with its open-air, free concerts during summer. Breaking away from the main tourist throng is the best way for one to discover the real' Amsterdam of grand old canal-side merchants' houses where modern Amsterdammers still live, in an almost rural setting. As well as being the transport hub for the city, Amsterdam's grand Centraal Station is also the gateway to myriad half- and full-day trips, with regular and inexpensive train services all over the Netherlands. Tourist Information VVV Amsterdam Tourist Office Stationsplein 10 (opposite Centraal Station) Tel: (020) 551 2525. Website: www.visitamsterdam.nl; www.iamsterdam.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. In total there are six VVV offices, including this location, Leidseplein/Leidsestraat and the airport. Services provided include general tourist information, hotel and package reservations, excursions and canal cruises, maps and guidebooks, walking tours, public transport tickets, theatre, concert and museum tickets, souvenirs and posters, telephone cards, VVV gift vouchers and currency exchange. Passes The I Amsterdam Card offers tourists the use of public transport (tram, bus and underground), free or reduced admission to many museums, a voucher booklet for 25% discount on several attractions and restaurants, a full-colour pass guide and a free canal boat trip. Attractions offering free entrance to card holders include the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum, Rembrandthuis, Amsterdams Historisch Museum and Hortus Botanicus. Valid for one, two or three days, the card is available for purchase from VVV Amsterdam tourist offices, as well as a number of hotels. Key Attractions Rijksmuseum The largest and most popular museum in the Netherlands was opened in 1885 and has grown steadily ever since. Today, it is in the midst of the biggest rebuilding programme in its history. Much of its most famous work by The Masters', though, is still on show in the impressively designed Phillips Wing and as many of the other collections are being put on display as possible. The 'New' Rijksmuseum is scheduled for completion in 2012/13. Jan Luijenstraat 1 Tel: (020) 674 7047. Website: www.rijksmuseum.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 0900-1800; Fri 0900-2200. Admission charge. Anne Frankhuis (Anne Frank House) The queues can be horrendous at the small but very popular Anne Frank House, which annually attracts

up to a million people. It is the historic home where Anne Frank, her family and four other Jewish people hid from the occupying Germans during WWII, after fleeing their native Germany. Finally caught by the Nazis, after two years in hiding, they were taken off to concentration camps, where Anne died. However, her father survived and published her diary, which has been translated into 50 languages. The story of how they were saved by local people for so long sometimes masks the reality that the city's Jewish population was all but wiped out during the war. Prinsengracht 263, Westerkerk Tel: (020) 556 7105. Website: www.annefrank.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Sep-Mar); daily 0900-2100 (Apr-Aug). Admission charge. Van Gogh Museum This spacious museum houses a permanent display of 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 700 letters by Van Gogh (making it easily the largest Van Gogh collection in the world), as well as works by ToulouseLautrec and Gauguin. They also stage a variety of temporary exhibitions. Paulus Potterstraat 7 Tel: (020) 570 5200. Website: www.vangoghmuseum.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 1000-1800; Fri 1000-2200. Admission charge. Scheepvaartmuseum (Netherlands Maritime Museum) The highlight of the maritime museum is the reconstruction of an old Dutch East Indiaman, The Amsterdam, which is moored just offshore. The ship may have no engine but it looks impressive and its confined interior is authentic. The museum helps open up the reality of the country's rich maritime past when the Dutch were major global players and their fleet ventured as far as modern day Indonesia, Goa and Macau. Katterburgerplein 1 Tel: (020) 523 2222. Website: www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Museum Het Rembrandthuis This museum, a charming three-storey house, built in the early 17th century, is where Rembrandt lived for nearly 20 years. Recently, a museum wing has been added, with more space for a permanent collection of his work. It is home to a comprehensive collection of 250 of the artist's etchings and selfportraits. Many visitors find the odds and ends that he accumulated during his lifetime, such as Roman busts and turtle shells, every bit as colourful and illuminating as his paintings. The work of Rembrandt's teachers and students is also on display, which adds depth and dialogue to Rembrandt's own work. Jodenbreestraat 4 Tel: (020) 520 0400. Website: www.rembrandthuis.nl Opening hours: Sat-Thur 1000-1700; Fri 1000-2100. Admission charge. Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art The best collection of modern art in Amsterdam is currently located in a temporary home whilst work continues on Museumplein. The renovation work is scheduled to be completed by the end of 2009. The

collection includes Dutch and international art from the second half of the 19th century onwards, with works by Picasso, Czanne, Chagall and Monet, as well as photography, video, film and industrial design. Recent Dutch artists on display include Mondrian, De Kooning and Lichtenstein. Oosterdokskade 5 Tel: (020) 573 2911. Website: www.stedelijk.nl Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Admission charge. Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Amsterdam Historical Museum) The Amsterdam Historical Museum shows how this city grew from a small medieval town into a modern city. Housed in a former orphanage that dates back to 1524, the museum is filled with paintings, prints and archaeological finds. One of the most interesting exhibits is an 18th-century coach without wheels. According to council regulations (and to reduce the noise of wheels on the cobbled streets) wealthy Amsterdammers had to travel by sleigh, even in summer. The entrance fee to the museum includes free entry to the Civic Guards Gallery, a glass-roofed street' between Kalverstraat and the Begijnhof, which is lined with 15 massive portraits of the Amsterdam Civic Guards, dating from the 17th century. However, the Rijksmuseum has the most famous painting of the Civic Guard - Rembrandt's Nightwatch. The museum's courtyards are a relaxing place to be on a warm summer's day with the restaurant offering outside tables. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 Tel: (020) 523 1822. Website: www.ahm.nl Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700; Sat-Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge. Heineken Experience The award-winning Heineken Experience is a self-guided, multimedia delve into the workings of the world's largest beer exporter. There is plenty of information on the company's rich history and also the chance to bottle your own beer. At the end of the tour, there is, of course, the chance to sample the brew. Stadhouderskade 78 Tel: (020) 523 9666. Website: www.heinekenexperience.com Opening hours: Daily 1100-1900. Admission charge. Sub-Culture Museums Amsterdam is infamous for its Sex Museum, but it also boasts the dubious charms of the Hash Museum and the Torture Museum. The extremely tacky Sex Museum is full of erotica (objets d'art, photos, prints, paintings and videos) dating from the Roman era to about 1960, although somehow manages to be totally devoid of eroticism. The Hash Museum is of interest to those visitors who come to Amsterdam in search of coffee shops and would like to learn a little more about the hallowed weed, while the Torture Museum caters to another sub-group of society altogether. Nevertheless, it is tongue-in-cheek enough to be of interest to all. The three museums are all within walking distance of each other in the city centre.

Hash Museum Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Tel: (020) 623 5961. Website: www.hashmuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 1100-2200.

Admission charge.

Sex Museum Damrak 18 Tel: (020) 622 8376. Website: www.sexmuseumamsterdam.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2330. Admission charge. Torture Museum Singel 449 Tel: (020) 320 6642. Website: www.torturemuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Admission charge.
Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) The Royal Palace, designed by Jacob van Campen, was built in 1648, as Amsterdam's city hall. When King Louis Napoleon arrived in Amsterdam, in 1808, he had the city hall turned into a palace. The large collection of Empire-style furniture, chandeliers and clocks date from this period. Although the palace is still the official royal residence, the royal family lives in The Hague. However, Queen Beatrix does host official functions here. Note that the interior is off limits to visitors until 2009 due to a major refurbishment. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147 Tel: (020) 620 4060. Website: www.koninklijkhuis.nl Opening hours: Tues-Thur and Sat-Sun 1230-1700; guided tours need to be booked two weeks in advance. Admission charge. NEMO Museum The funky and modern NEMO Museum is an unmistakable sight on the banks of the IJ. Just a short stroll away from Centraal Station, this museum attempts to defy the crusty image of some traditional museums by offering plenty of hands-on exhibits to stimulate young minds and keep them occupied, as well as provide more information on science and technology for older visitors. This bright, relaxed venue is a good antidote to Amsterdam's other, perhaps stuffier museums, especially for younger visitors. The rooftop has a beach area, a surreal place to take in the rays on a sunny day. Oosterdok 2 Tel: (020) 531 3233. Website: www.e-nemo.nl Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Shopping Amsterdam has much to offer the avid shopper with more than 10,000 shops. On the one hand, there are international fashion labels, books, arts and antiques, while on the other, there are local specialities to buy, such as tulip bulbs, chocolates, cumin cheese, stoneware bottles of jenever (Dutch gin), blue Delft china and diamonds. The main shopping areas are Leidsestraat, between the Leidseplein and Spui, Kalverstraat and Nieuwendijk, leading from the Munt Tower via the Dam to near Centraal Station. Pedestrianised

Leidsestraat, with its fashion boutiques, large fashion store (Metz & Co), souvenir shops and newsagents, is Amsterdam's answer to Oxford Street and the perfect place for tourists to combine a spot of shopping with canal views and caf stops. At the northern end of Leidsestraat is Singel, the floating flower market. Kalverstraat offers a combination of classy department stores, fashion boutiques and the luxurious shopping centre of Kalvertoren, while Nieuwendijk, one of Amsterdam's oldest shopping streets, is home to moderately priced fashion, shoe and CD stores. Amsterdam has gained a reputation for cool clubbing clobber, with Clubwear House, Spuistraat 242, and ZX Fashion, Kerkstraat 113, two of the funkiest outlets, with the latter also boasting a hair salon that specialises in outlandish styles. Both shops also provide insider information on the city's coolest parties, which few tourists ever get to hear about. DKNY is located on PC Hoofstraat 60, while Armani is at number 39-41 in the same upmarket shopping street. Maison de Bonneterie, Rokin 140-2, is the Harrods of Amsterdam - here you can find top quality men's and women's clothing and fine household goods. Miaow, Hartenstraat 36, is perfect for savvy and moneyed shoppers looking for unique fashion from one of the city's most talented designers, Analik. The Dam offers a couple of options, including Bijenkorf, Dam 1, the premier department store in Amsterdam, which sells a good range of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and household items. Magna Plaza, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, is located in a fairy-tale, neo-gothic pile that was once the General Post Office. Inside are 40 shops ranging from Virgin Megastore to Shu Uemura Cosmetics. Emerging shopping areas include KNSM island, with its designer outlets, and Haarlemmerdijk and Tussen de Bogen, with their speciality and niche shops. Wini, Haarlemstraat 29, is a favourite of the local clubbing set with hip clothes and retro fashion. Amsterdam has 25 markets for those seeking a bargain; they are open during normal shopping hours (see below), weather permitting. There is an interesting flea market around the City Hall and Opera. The busy, cosmopolitan food and clothes market is in Albert Cuypstraat. The colourful bloemenmarkt (flower market) on the Singel is not to be missed, while the organic food boerenmarkt (farmers' market) is in Noordermarkt, which is open Saturday 0900-1600 (in winter until 1500). The vogelmarkt (bird market), also at Noordermarkt, is open Saturday 0800-1300. Traditional shopping hours are Tuesday to Friday 0900 or 1000-1800 and Saturday 0900-1700. However, some shops now stay open later, particularly on Thursday. Generally, shops are closed all day on Sunday and on Monday morning. There is a 20% sales tax on luxury goods and 5% on other items.

ATHENS MINI GUIDE Athens (Athina) is named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, who, according to legend, won the city after defeating Poseidon in a duel. The goddess' victory was celebrated by the construction of a temple on the Acropolis, the site of the city's earliest settlement in Attica. As a city state, the coastal capital of Athens reached its heyday in the fifth century BC. The office of the statesman, Pericles, between 461BC and his death in 429BC, saw an unprecedented spate of construction resulting in many of the great classical buildings (the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Hephaisteion and the temple at Sounion) now regarded as icons of Ancient Greece. Physical evidence of the city's success was matched by achievements in the intellectual arts. Democracy was born, drama flourished and Socrates conceived the foundations of Western philosophy. Remarkably, although the cultural legacy of this period has influenced Western civilisation ever since,

the classical age in Athens only lasted for five decades. Under the Macedonians and Romans, the city retained a privileged cultural and political position but became a prestigious backwater of the Empire rather than a major player. The birth of Christianity heralded a long period of occupation and decline, culminating in 1456 and four centuries of Turkish domination. By the end of the 18th century, Athens was also suffering the indignity of having the artistic achievements of its classical past removed by looting collectors. Over 3 million visitors come to the city each year to see the sights and usually head off for the lovely Greek islands. In addition to the celebrated classical sites, the city boasts Byzantine, medieval and 19th-century monuments, as well as one of the best museums in the world and areas of surprising natural beauty. Despite the traffic, an appealing village-like quality becomes evident in the cafes, tavernas, markets and the maze of streets around the Plka. Moreover, Athens has the finest restaurants and the most varied nightlife in the country and remains a major European centre of culture, celebrated each year at the Athens Festival. The metropolitan area, including the port at Piraeus, is the indisputable industrial and economic powerhouse of the country, while the return of the Olympic Games in 2004 prompted a flurry of new development, including a new airport, the extension of the metro system, the building of new sports venues, the upgrading of hotels, the renovation of several top museums, and the formation of a traffic-free archaeological promenade'. City Statistics Location: Attica, Greece. Dialling code: 30. The old Athens code of 010' has been replaced with 210', however, 210' must be dialled even within Athens. All numbers throughout the country now have ten digits, which must all be dialled. Population: 3,192,606 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 9.5C (49F). Average July temperatures: 27.5C (81.5F). Annual rainfall: 376mm (14.5 inches). Sightseeing Modern Athens is divided into districts but Syntagma or Constitution Square is the epicentre of the city - almost everything worth seeing in Athens is within half an hour's walk of here. Other useful landmarks are the unavoidable Akrpoli (Acropolis) and Lykavitts Hill. The Plka covers the area below the Acropolis, to the east of the Agor. Despite being heavily commercialised, this is the most pleasant part of the city to explore on foot. Narrow winding streets are lined with 19thcentury buildings, souvenir shops and bustling tavernas. In particular, Anafitika (at the base of the Acropolis) is a delightful area that recreates the style and atmosphere of a Greek village. The area was settled by workers from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to build a palace for King Otto. In addition to simply wandering the streets or watching the world go by over a lengthy coffee, the highlights of the Plka include several specialist museums. On the edge of this district, the Monastraki bazaar is a grimy, bustling slice of authentic Athenian life,

with neighbouring Psirri the currently fashionable area for bars, restaurants and nightlife. At the other end of the scale, the Kolonki district on the edge of Lykavitts is wealthy and fashionable, providing a welcome retreat from the harder parts of the city. The tourist season lasts from April to October and is at its peak in August, when the city is particularly crowded. The Ministry of Culture's website provides information for visitors about the main monuments in Athens (website: www.culture.gr). Tourist Information Greek National Tourism Organisation (GNTO) Amalias 26, close to Syntagma Tel: 210 331 0392. Website: www.gnto.gr Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-1800. Passes It is possible to buy a block ticket for the Archaeological Sites of Athens'. The ticket is valid for four days and can be bought at any of the participating sites. These include the Acropolis, the Theatre of Dionysus, the Agor, Kerameiks, the Roman Forum and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Key Attractions Akrpoli (Acropolis) The Acropolis (upper city) dominates both the city's skyline and any tourist's itinerary. The name refers to the rocky outcrop that formed the site of the original settlement in Athens. Foundations for a temple dedicated to Athena were laid in 490BC, however, work did not begin in earnest until the Golden Age of Pericles (461-429BC). The Acropolis site includes the Acropolis Museum and four sacred buildings, all from the fifth century BC. The steep ascent to the summit leads to the Propylaea, a monumental gateway in the Ionic and Doric styles, which serves as the entrance to the site. The Temple of Athena Nike is to the left of the Propylaea - the original was destroyed by Turkish forces in the 17th century but has been beautifully restored.The Parthenon is the largest building on the Acropolis and an icon of Western civilisation. Built entirely from marble, the Parthenon was intended as a sanctuary for Athena and housed a statue (no longer in existence) of the goddess. Despite the tourists, the perfect harmony of the structure is still awe-inspiring. The Erechtheion temple is a dual shrine to Athena and Poseidon-Erechtheus and was built on the site of the mythical battle between the two deities. The south side features a series of six support columns designed as maidens or caryatids. Due to severe environmental damage, the caryatids have been replaced by models. Acropolis Hill, centre of Athens Tel: 210 321 0219. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Mouseo Akrpolis (Acropolis Museum) In the past, many of the treasures from the Acropolis could be found in the Acropolis Museum, in the southeast corner of the complex. Exhibits are gradually being transferred to the New Acropolis Museum, at the foot of the Acropolis Hill. An all-glass structure designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum will be a new home for statues and artefacts from the Acropolis and hopefully persuade the British Museum in London to return the controversial Parthenon Marbles, seized by Lord Elgin in 1799. Thatro Dionysou (Theatre of Dionysus) On the southern slopes of the Acropolis Hill, the Thatro Dionysou was home to the original performances of the tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripedes and the comedies of

Aristophanes. This stone auditorium, from the fourth century BC, held 17,000 spectators and the ruins remain one of the most atmospheric of Athens' ancient sites. D Areopagitou, Plaka Tel: 210 322 4625. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0830-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Agor (Market) Although the site is now a jumble of monuments and ruins from different periods, in Athens' heyday the Agor was the focus of city life, serving not only as a place of trade but also as the city's political, administrative and cultural heart. Law courts, temples and public offices were all based in this area, where ordinary Athenians, stall holders and merchants mingled with officials, politicians and philosophers. The site is dominated by the Hephaisteion (Temple of Haephaistos), from the fifth century BC, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece. The fascinating Museo tis Agoras (Museum of Agor) contains an eccentric array of everyday artefacts found in the area. It is housed in the Stoa Attalou (Stoa of Attalos). This two-storey structure from the second century BC was restored by the American School of Archaeology and is thought to have been an early shopping arcade containing 42 separate shops. Adrianou 24, Monastirki Tel: 210 331 0963. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Ethnik Archaiologik Mouseio (National Archaeological Museum) Following extensive renovation, this world-famous museum reopened in summer 2004. Housed in a late 19th-century building, it is undoubtedly the best museum in Greece with one of the finest collections of ancient and classical Greek artefacts. Fascinating pieces include the Mycenaen Collection featuring hordes of finely crafted gold work dating from between the 16th and 11th centuries BC, and the Bronze Collection, including an imposing bronze statue of Poseidon from 460BC. Refreshments are available in the museum cafe overlooking the internal sculpture garden. Patission 44, Omonia Tel: 210 821 7717. Opening hours: Mon 1300-1930, Tues-Fri 0800-1930, Sat-Sun 0830-1500. Admission charge. Vizantino Mouseio (Byzantine Museum) Housed in the grounds of a delightful neoclassical villa, this museum reopened in summer 2004 after total renovation. The open-plan exhibition space lies below the central courtyard, with exhibits presented in chronological order, tracing the development of the Byzantine Empire. Besides boasting one of the richest collections of religious icons in the world, the museum exhibits mosaics, frescoes, sculptural works and jewellery from the area that is now Greece, as well as from other regions of the former Byzantine Empire. Vassilissis Sofias 22, Kolonki Tel: 210 721 1027. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1500. Admission charge. Mouseo Ellinikis Laikis Technis (Museum of Greek Folk Art) Lying on the edge of Plka, this museum displays a vast and colourful collection of folk art that dates

from 1650 onwards. Works are divided into specific sections devoted to costumes, embroidery, weaving, gold and silver jewellery, woodwork, weaponry, Greek shadow theatre and hand-painted ceramics. The highlights are the traditional costumes, set off against suggestive reconstructions of houses relating to their specific regions. Another highlight is the Theofilis Room, the reconstruction of a house on the island of Lesvos, which was frescoed by Theofilis Hadjimichael (1868-1934). Kidathineon 17, Plka Tel: 210 321 3018. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1400. Admission charge. Mouseo Ellinikn Mousikon Orgnon (Museum of Greek Musical Instruments) Housed in a renovated 19th-century mansion in the heart of Plka, the Mouseo Ellinikn Mousikon Orgnon displays a collection accumulated by the musicologist, Fivos Anoyanakis. This museum is great fun - each display case is accompanied by a headset, so that visitors can listen to the sound of the instruments. Films in the entrance feature their construction and performance. Information is provided in English. Diogenous 1-3, Plka Tel: 210 362 9513. Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1400, Wed 1200-1800. Free admission. Mouseo Kykladiks kai Archaas Elliniks Tchnis (Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art) The museum houses the private collection of Nikolas P Goulandris. Beautiful exhibits from the Cycladic civilisation (3000-2000BC) form the focus of the collection but other artefacts cover the preMinoan Bronze Age and the post-Mycenaen age up to 700BC, and a collection of Ancient Cypriot Art was added in 2004. The museum shop offers an excellent selection of quality reproduction pieces, while the light and airy atrium cafe is a good place for coffee or a light lunch. Neoftou Dhouk 4, Kolonki Tel: 210 722 8321. Website: www.cycladic-m.gr Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Fri 1000-1600, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat 1000-1500. Admission charge (free Sat). Panathinaiko Stdio (Panathenaic Stadium) The elegant three-sided stone stadium was built in 1896, for the first of the modern-day Olympic Games. The design by Ernst Ziller was based on the plan of a fourth-century-BC stadium that originally stood on the site. During the 2004 Olympic Games, this stadium hosted the fencing contests and the marathon ended here. It should not be confused with the modern Olympic Stadium in the north of the city that formed the centre stage of the 2004 Olympics. Leoforos Ardhittou Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Free admission. Olympieion (Temple of Olympian Zeus) Lying close to the National Gardens and Plka, this was one of largest temples in the ancient world, being dedicated to the god of all gods, Zeus. Building work began in 515BC, but was only completed some 700 years later in AD131 under the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Today, 16 of the original 104 marble columns, which are 17m (56ft) high, survive. On the edge of the site stands the triumphal arch named Hadrian's Arch.

Leoforos Vassilissis. Olgas and Amalias Tel: 210 922 6330. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (summer); daily 0800-1500 (winter). Admission charge. Mouseio Benaki (Benaki Museum) The museum houses the private collection of Antonios Benakis (1873-1954), the son of a wealthy Greek from Alexandria, Egypt. Displayed in a neo-classical mansion, the collection traces the development of Greek art, from the Stone Age up to the 20th century, with jewellery, ceramics, painting, sculpture, furniture and costumes laid out in chronological order. There is a roof top terrace cafe and a museum shop selling reproductions of the exhibits on display. Vassilissis Sofias & Koumbari 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210 367 1000. Website: www.benaki.gr Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 0900-1700, Thurs 0900-2400, Sun 0900-1500. Admission charge (free Thurs). Shopping Athens' busiest shopping street is the pedestrianised Ermou, off Syntagma Square, where shoppers can pick up the season's latest souvenirs, clothing and accessories. The most upmarket shopping district in Athens is nearby Kolonki, where designer boutiques (such as the Italian Versace) rub shoulders with coffee shops and chic restaurants. This area includes Tsakalof, one of the most expensive streets in the world. Avid shoppers will find a large shopping mall, called The Mall, in the northern suburb of Maroussi. The city's best bookshop is the vast seven-storey Eleftheroudakis on Panepistimiou, which stocks an excellent selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction and travel guides. There is a long tradition of silver and gold craftsmanship in Athens and jewellery made here can be of a particularly high quality. Jewellers are concentrated in chic Kolonki, with the expensive international outlets, such as Bulgari, lining Voukourestiou, while up-and-coming Greek designers, such as Elena Votsi, have shops in the surrounding side streets. Other good-value items include spirits, ceramics and leather goods. Typical Greek gifts include handwoven rugs, known as flokati, copper coffee pots, virgin olive oil and honey, all of which can be found in the souvenir shops in Plka. In Athens, there is a big market in reproductions of museum pieces and religious icons - the best places for visitors to buy these are at the shops in the museums themselves. In the Monastirki area, on the edge of Plka, shops sell everything from combat army boots and second-hand books to fake designer sunglasses and ancient coins. Shops open out directly onto the street, bazaar style, while Sundays bring the Monastirki Flea Market, 0800-1400, where goods range from carefully restored antique furniture to rather dubious bric-a-brac. Kentrik Agor (Central Market) is housed in a huge 19th-century metal structure near Omonia Square and is open early morning to early evening, often taking a break for siesta during summer. It sells fish, meat and fresh produce. Smaller markets radiate out from the central building. Household items, fresh fruit and vegetables are sold weekly in Laiki (People's Markets) all over Athens. Shops generally open Monday and Wednesday 0900-1430, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 0900-1330 and 1730-2030 and Saturday 0900-1500 (though some of the larger shops now stay open till 1700 Saturdays). Small, family-run shops may stay open as late as 2200, for the sale of food, drinks and newspapers. Bargains can be snapped up at the sales in August and February.

Visitors from outside the European Union who have been in Greece for less than three months can claim back VAT of up to 18% on purchases over 120. A tax-free cheque' will be issued in the shop to be presented along with the receipt to customs when leaving the county. BARCELONA MINI GUIDE Just decades ago, few tourists would have considered visiting the northern Spanish city of Barcelona. However, this once rather rundown industrial centre, which seemed to have little to offer, has undergone a seismic change that culminated in the hosting of the Olympic Games in 1992, an event which completely transformed Barcelona. As well as a string of purpose-built sporting developments springing up all over the city (with the epicentre on the slopes of Montjuc) Barcelona also benefited from major investments. Barcelona has since become something of a mecca for the world's top architects, who have flocked here to conjure up an array of modern structures and avant-garde designs. Many have drawn their inspiration from the seminal work of Barcelona's most famous son, the modernist architect Antoni Gaudi, whose unique style can still be savoured in a number of key buildings around the city. His masterpiece is the unfinished Sagrada Familia cathedral, but his work can be seen even in the lampposts and fountains of Plaa Reial. Fortunately, the rush of new construction has not completely dwarfed the older buildings, as the old and new architectural styles harmoniously combine. Barcelona is the kind of city where a contemporary glass and steel office block can rest happily within striking distance of a gothic cathedral, a city where the old port has been rejuvenated without losing any of its charm. As the capital of Catalunya, the city is also solidifying its position as a major regional economic power, tucked strategically close to the French border and with a wide Mediterranean coastline. Its key industries include manufacture, textiles, electronics and tourism - in 2006, Catalunya received 15.7 million visitors from a total of over 50 million throughout Spain. The economy of Barcelona has been steadily expanding during the past decade and although it contains just 4% of the Spanish population, the city contributes nearly 15% to the country's GDP. The locals are very aware of the city's potential. A strong desire still remains among some to create an independent Catalan state with Barcelona at its helm, instead of the current Spanish set up, where Barcelona plays second fiddle in political terms to Madrid. Some observers believe that the desire for outright independence has waned since the death of General Franco and the granting of a greater deal of autonomy to the region. Nevertheless, in the bars and cafes of the city, the patriotic feelings still remain strong. Nowhere is this proud drive for greater self-determination more evocative than at Camp Nou, the home of Barcelona FC (one of Europe's greatest football teams) when a capacity 89,787 crowd pulsates

to a rousing victory over arch rivals Real Madrid. With a balmy year-round climate (not too steamily hot in summer and with few genuinely cold days in winter) it is not surprising that Barcelona is attracting an increasing number of visitors. Indeed, with cheap air travel becoming more popular, Barcelona has entered the millennium as one of Europe's most popular short break destinations. City Statistics Location: Catalunya (Catalonia), northeast Spain. Dialling code: 34. Population: 1,673,075 (city); 3,161,081 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 10C (50F). Average July temperatures: 25C (78F). Annual rainfall: 590mm (23.2 inches). Sightseeing Barcelona is neatly framed by the Mediterranean to the east and the hills of Montjuc and Tibidabo on two of its other flanks. The central section of the city, where most tourists spend their time, is even more conveniently divided by La Rambla, the main artery of Barcelona life, which tumbles from Plaa de Catalunya southeast towards the Mediterranean and the recently reborn districts of Port Vell (Old Port), and trendy La Ribera (The Waterfront). The atmospheric Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter), the area to the right of La Rambla, heading in the direction of Plaa de Catalunya, is the charming heart of the old city, embracing the Catedral de la Seu and Museu Picasso amid narrow streets and hidden squares. Plaa de Catalunya divides the old town from the Eixample (a grid of streets laid out in the 19th century) in which much of the city's finest Modernist architecture is to be found, including the celebrated Sagrada Famlia, a marvel of design by Anton Gaudi. An eccentric recluse, Gaud was the most celebrated practitioner of the modernist style, whose innovative work threw all design rulebooks out of the window in his quest to get architecture to mirror the curves and intricacies of nature. In addition to those sights described in Key Attractions, further architectural highlights include Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau and the Palau de la Msica Catalana, both designed by Gaud's contemporary, Domnech i Montaner. Passeig de Grcia, the most stylish street in the city, is at the heart of the Eixample and intersects with the Diagonal - the city's main thoroughfare, at its northern end. The Montjuc mountainside has successfully managed the transition from being the site of the 1992 Olympic Games to become a permanent tourist attraction, boasting the remaining Olympic installations, such noteworthy museums as Fundaci Joan Mir and the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, as well as great views of the city.

Tourist Information Centre d'Informaci Turisme de Barcelona Plaa de Catalunya 17-S Tel: 807 117 222, within Spain only or (93) 285 3834. Website: www.barcelonaturisme.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100. Other information desks can be found at the airport, at Central-Sants station and in Plaa Sant Jaume. Passes The Barcelona Card offers discounts of up to 50% at many of the most interesting tourist attractions, including museums, entertainment and leisure venues, shops and restaurants, as well as free public transport and assistance insurance. Attractions include Museu Picasso, Casa-Museu Gaud and Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona. The card is available for one, two, three, four or five days, from the main tourist offices at Plaa de Catalunya, Plaa Sant Jaume and Central-Sants station. The ArticketBCN gives half-price admission to seven of the city's main art galleries and museums - Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Fundaci Joan Mir, Fundaci Antoni Tpies, Centre de Cultura Contempornia de Barcelona (CCCB), Centre Cultural Caixa de Catalunya, Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA) and the Museu Picasso. It is available from any of the respective box offices and branches of Caixa Catalunya. Key Attractions Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family) Gaud's unfinished masterpiece and the city's most outlandish landmark, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, towers crazily above the grid-like streets of the Eixample. Despite being very much a building site, the cathedral has a certain beauty that somehow emerges, despite the omnipresent scaffoldings. However, it remains the subject of continual controversy over who should pay for its completion. The extraordinary structure has elicited cries of astonishment, awe, amusement and anger from visitors and residents alike, although it remains one of the city's most visited attractions. Carrer de Mallorca 401 Tel: (93) 207 3031. Website: www.sagradafamilia.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Oct-Mar); daily 0900-2000 (Apr-Sep). Admission charge. Museu Picasso (Picasso Museum) The Picasso Museum is one of the city's main tourist attractions, housed in two 15th-century palaces close to the Parc de la Ciutadella. The impressive permanent collection is devoted to the artist's early work, including a large number of childhood sketches, paintings from the Blue Period (1901-1904) and the Pink Period (1907-1920), exhibition posters, ceramics and cubist works. There are also two exhibition spaces for temporary exhibitions.

Carrer Montcada 15-23 Tel: (93) 256 3000. Website: www.museupicasso.bcn.es Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-2000. Admission charge. La Rambla La Rambla is not one street but rather a seamless series of pedestrian avenues stretching from the Monument a Colom on the waterfront to Plaa de Catalunya in the centre of the city. La Rambla has the same place in the psyche of the city as the Champs Elyses in Paris or Oxford Street in London do, although it is far less snooty than the former and far more attractive than the latter. Lined with trees, cafes, restaurants, flower stalls, shops and newspaper stands, La Rambla is the perfect place in which to stroll and soak up the unique Barcelona atmosphere. Attractions along the way include Gaud's first major architectural project, Palau Gell (Gell Palace), in Carrer Nou de la Rambla, just off the main drag. Plaa Reial, also just off La Rambla, is one of the most attractive squares in the city - elegant 19th-century houses look down on palm trees, lampposts designed by Gaud, and an eclectic mix of people enjoying the lively atmosphere at outdoor cafes. Some of La Rambla's most captivating attractions are its famous street entertainers who delight the crowds with their weird and wacky shows. Other points of interest are the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the legendary Caf de L'Opera opposite, as well as La Boqueria, Barcelona's wonderful, bustling food market. Palau Gell Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5 Tel: (93) 317 3974. Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1430. Free admission. Note: The palace is currently only partially open while renovations take place. Gran Teatre del Liceu La Rambla 51-59 Tel: (93) 485 9900 (information) or 9913 (box office). Website: www.liceubarcelona.com Opening hours: Performances daily 1700 and/or 2030 (varies). Admission charge. La Boqueria Rambla Sant Josep Tel: (93) 318 2584. Website: www.boqueria.info Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2030, Sat 0800-2000. Free admission. Parc Gell (Gell Park) With Parc Gell, Gaud created a fantasy land that seamlessly combines the natural and the man-made, as well as offering good views over the city. The park, originally conceived as a garden city, covers a hill to the north of the city centre. The gardens are enlivened by fantastic pavilions,

stairways, columned halls and an organic plaza decorated with stunning broken-mosaic work (trencads) by Gaud's assistant, Josep Maria Jujol. At the base of the hill is a house designed by Francesc Berenguer, which is now home to a collection of Gaud's furnishings and other memorabilia. Carrer d'Olot Tel: (93) 213 0488. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Nov-Feb); daily 1000-2100 (May and Aug); daily 1000-1900 (Mar and Oct); daily 1000-2000 (Apr and Sep). Free admission to the park, charge for Casa Museu Gaudi. Casa Mil Casa Mil, also known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry), is an undulating apartment block on the corner of Passeig de Grcia. The building, inspired by the ocean, is an incredible testament to Gaud's ability to make stone malleable. Apartments (which are not open to the public) are arranged around elliptical patios with no square corners in sight. The roof terrace is watched over by sentry-like chimneys and offers an excellent view across the city to the spires of La Sagrada Familia. The loft space of Casa Mil houses a beautiful museum, Espai Gaud, dedicated to the architect. Passeig de Grcia 92/Carrer Provenca 261-265 Tel: (93) 484 5979 or 902 400 973. Website: www.fundaciocaixacatalunya.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1830 (Nov-Feb); 0900-2000 (Mar-Oct). Admission charge. Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter) The maze of streets known as the Barri Gtic or Gothic Quarter contains an exemplary collection of gothic buildings dating from Catalonia's Golden Age, in the 14th and 15th centuries, interspersed with Roman ruins, delightful squares and numerous bars and restaurants. Plaa Sant Jaume, at the heart of the district, is the epicentre of the city's political life. The square is overlooked on one side by the Renaissance-style Palau de la Generalitat (location of the Catalan government) and on the other by the Ajuntament (city hall). Nearby, the Palau Real on Plaa del Rei houses the Museu d'Histria de la Ciutat. The remains of the Roman city of Barcino, beneath the palace, were uncovered in 1931; Roman streets are still visible in the vast cellar space that stretches as far as the cathedral. The museum admission fee gives access to the cellar and to a number of beautiful medieval buildings. Museu d'Histria de la Ciutat Plaa del Rei Tel: (93) 256 2122. Website: www.museuhistoria.bcn.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1000-1500 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sat 1000-1400 and 1600-1900, Sun 1000-1500 (Oct-Mar). Admission charge. Catedral de la Seu Catedral de la Seu was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, on the site of an earlier basilica, although the spire and facade were not added until the beginning of the 20th century. Highlights include the carved choir

stalls, the Capella de Lepanto and the tranquil cloisters containing a pond of white geese. Plaa de la Seu Tel: (93) 315 1554. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1315 and 1630-1930. Free admission. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya - MNAC (National Museum of Catalonian Art) The Palau Nacional, on Montjuc, was the focus of Barcelona's International Fair in 1929. It now houses the National Museum of Catalonian Art. The museum boasts a stunning collection of gothic, Romanesque and medieval treasures and religious artefacts. The museum also houses the collections of the Museu D'Art Modern, recently moved from the Palau de la Ciutadella in the Parc de la Ciutadella. The most impressive approach to the Palace is up Avinguda de La Reina Maria Cristina, from Plaa Espanya - the avenue is lined with fountains that are floodlit at night. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuc Tel: (93) 622 0360. Website: www.mnac.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1000-1430. Admission charge. Fundaci Joan Mir (Joan Mir Foundation) Also on Montjic, the Joan Mir Foundation is one of the most innovative galleries in the city. The foundation was a gift from the artist himself and houses a permanent collection of his paintings, graphics and sculptures. Parc de Montjuc Tel: (93) 443 9470. Website: www.bcn.fjmiro.es Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (Oct-Jun); Tues-Sat 1000-2000, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (JulSep). Admission charge. Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord) A series of extraordinary houses by Montaner, Gaud and Puig i Cadafalch make up the Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord) on the Passeig de Grcia, between Arag and Consell de Cent. Gaud's Casa Batll, at number 43, looks rather like an underwater grotto, with blue-green tiles on the facade, frog-faced balconies and a reptilian roof. Together they form part of the Ruta Modernista (see Tours of the City). Information and passes for this architectural tour can be obtained from the first floor of Casa Llo Morera, at number 35. Regrettably, the interiors of all three houses are closed to the public. However Ruta Modernista pass-holders are permitted onto the roof of Casa Batll. Passeig de Grcia Santa Maria del Mar

Santa Maria del Mar is counted among the most beautiful churches in the city and is considered a prime example of Mediterranean gothic architecture. It is located just to the northeast of the Barri Gtic, at the heart of the fashionable La Ribera district. A 15th-century rose window adds colour to the simple harmony of the columned interior. Plaa de Santa Maria Tel: (93) 310 2390. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1330 and 1630-2000. Free admission. Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona - MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Arts) Looking rather incongruous in the down-at-heel surroundings of the Raval district, to the west of La Rambla, the brilliant-white Museum of Contemporary Arts is at the forefront of efforts to regenerate this traditionally seedy area of the city. The museum opened amid a blaze of publicity in 1995 and houses a permanent collection of post-1940s international art, as well as various temporary exhibitions. Plaa dels ngels 1 Tel: (93) 412 0810. Website: www.macba.es Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Fri 1100-1930, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 10001500 (25 Sep-23 Jun); Mon and Wed 1100-2000, Thurs-Fri 1100-2400, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (24 Jun-24 Sep). Closed Tues. Admission charge. The Waterfront A stroll along the harbourside passeig and wooden walkway is an excellent way to see some of the results of Barcelona's epic regeneration programme. The focus of interest and activity in Barcelona is shifting back towards the sea, with the continued development of Port Vell (Old Port). The waterfront now boasts a myriad of eateries and bars, a vast shopping mall and leisure centre (Maremagnum) and an excellent aquarium. Barceloneta, the old fisherman's quarter, which dates from 1755, still has some of the best fish restaurants in the city and is now also the gateway to Barcelona's cleaned-up beaches. Further to the east, the Vila Olmpica at Poble Nou, created for the 1992 Olympic Games, is one of the liveliest and most interesting areas of the city during the warmer months, although it is often deserted during winter. Passeig de Colom FC Barcelona President Nez Museum and Nou Camp The President Nez Museum, one of the best football museums in the world, is happily situated within the stadium of one of the world's most legendary football clubs. A visit to the museum, which contains a history section, art gallery, and one of the best private collections of football memorabilia in the world, can be combined with a tour of Nou Camp. The stadium tour includes the changing rooms, tunnel, dugouts, TV studio, directors' area and culminates with a panoramic view of the entire facility. Avinguda Aristides Maillol

Tel: (93) 496 3600. Website: www.fcbarcelona.cat Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1830, Sun 1000-1430 (Nov-Mar); Mon-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1000-1430 (Apr-Oct); 1000-1300 (match days, tour not available). Admission charge. Shopping Shopping is one of Barcelona's greatest attractions, with a bountiful 5km (3-mile) shopping strip, all the way from the water's edge at Port Vell right up La Rambla to Diagonal. International chains, designer shops and modern department stores can be found in the area around Plaa de Catalunya, Passeig de Gracia and along Avinguda Diagonal. The most famous shop in the city is the imposing El Corte Ingls, on Plaa de Catalunya - part of a national chain, generally considered to be Spain's leading department stores. La Rambla and the Barri Gtic are popular places for tourists to hunt for souvenirs. A visit to La Boqueria market, officially Mercat de Sant Josep, off Rambla Sant Josep, is an unmissable experience. The market is open Monday to Friday 0800-2030 and Saturday 0800-2000, for the sale of fresh fish, meat, vegetables and dairy products. Other food markets for keen shoppers to try are Concepci, Carrer Arag, Ninot, Carrer Mallorca, and the Gastronomic Fair, which takes place in Plaa del Pi, on the first and third Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the month. For antiques and curios, the Els Encants market is held on Plaa de les Glories, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 0900-1900. Another antiques market is held on Plaa Nova every Thursday (except in August). Representative gifts include Catalan black pottery, handwoven baskets or Barcelona lace. In recent years, a number of urban-chic orientated fashion stores have opened in the city centre. For the ultimate in local style, head to Barcelona's top fashion designer Antonio Mir, Carrer Consell de Cent 349351, or Jean Pierre Bua, Avinguda Diagonal 469, which stocks such trendy designer names such as Gaultier and Miyake. Shops open at 0900 or 1000 and close again for an extended lunch, between 1330 and 1600 or 1700. In the evening, shops shut at 2000 or 2030. Large department stores do not generally close for lunch. All shops are open on Saturday afternoons but are closed all day on Sunday. IVA (value added tax) of 16% is charged on most goods and services in Spain.

BERLIN MINI GUIDE Berlin is back - back as the capital of a reunified Germany and back as one of Europe's greatest - and most vibrant - cities. After WWII, Berlin was a crippled pawn, sandwiched between East and West, with a literal and metaphorical wall deeply dividing the two halves. The northeastern German city even suffered the ignominy of losing its capital status, as the West German government fled to Bonn. Today, the Cold War and the iconic events of November 1989, which saw the Berlin Wall torn to pieces by those whom it had oppressed for so long, are starting to seem like a distant memory and all the talk in

Berlin is of the future. In the biggest construction project in Europe since WWII, a new Berlin has emerged from the forest of cranes dotting the no-man's land that was the divided city's dead heart. Potsdamer Platz is the most voluminous project but the most symbolic recent construction is at the Reichstag. British architect Norman Foster has rejuvenated the German parliament with an impressive glass dome that symbolises the new transparency in German politics - that of a nation with nothing to hide, which is attempting to distance itself from the ghosts of its past. Coupled with this wave of recent construction is a city laden with historical charm - from the old streets of East Berlin, which are slowly being restored after remaining unchanged for 50 years, through to the grand architecture of Museumsinsel and Unter den Linden, and the green lung of the Tiergarten Park. Tourism is on the rise, as visitors come to savour the intoxicating mix of old and new. Big business, too, is booming and key industries such as electronics, manufacturing and information technology reflect the dynamism of the German economy. Contrary to the usual cliches about Germany, Berlin is a city with a laid-back attitude and some of the liveliest nightlife in Europe. In Berlin today, there is everything from authentic beer halls and old Soviet era haunts right through to buzzing style bars and Latino nightclubs. Berlin's climate is equally eclectic, with hot summer days giving way to occasionally freezing temperatures during the long grey winter. Today's quintessential Berlin experience is to laze through a summer day in the Tiergarten with the murmur of construction just out of earshot, sipping on a chilled Pilsner beer, while absorbing the rush and hum of one of Europe's finest capitals. City Statistics Location: Berlin State, northeastern Germany. Dialling code: 49. Population: 3,404,037 (city). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: -0.4C (33F). Average July temperatures: 23C (73F). Annual rainfall: 484mm (19 inches). Sightseeing Berlin can be a sightseeing nightmare - the vast sprawl that is the city has no definite centre and pockets of attractions are dotted all over. That said, the state museums are grouped in clusters - on the Museumsinsel, at the Kulturforum, in and around Schloss Charlottenberg and in the southwestern suburb of Dahlem. There are also a large number of attractions either at Potsdamer Platz or very close to it, including the Kulturforum to the southwest. To the north lie the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) and the Reichstag, sporting Lord Foster's glass dome. The Brandenburg Gate is situated on Berlin's main eastwest axis. To the west lies the Siegessule (Victory Column), which provides a view over the surrounding Tiergarten and the Western city centre, to the southwest of the column. West Berlin's centre has less to offer and is better for shopping and nightlife than for sightseeing. Nevertheless, visitors should take a look at the broken shard of a church, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedchtniskirche, which serves as a brutal reminder of WWII. The zoo is nearby.

The densest array of sights lies to the east of the Brandenburg Gate, on either side of Unter den Linden, lined with many 18th- and 19th-century buildings. At its end are the artistic and architectural treasures of the Museumsinsel, where the city's main cathedral, the Berliner Dom, can be found. Further on is the Communist-era Fernsehturm (television tower), on Alexanderplatz, which marked the centre of East Berlin. Just south of the Brandenburg Gate is the controversial Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, which opened in 2005. Tourist Information Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH Tel: (030) 250 025. Website: www.visitberlin.de Hauptbahnhof (Main Station) Opening hours: Daily 0800-2200. Brandenburg Gate (South Wing), Pariser Platz (East Berlin) Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, opens later Apr-Oct. Another tourist information office is located at the Alexa Shopping Centre near Alexanderplatz. There is a Berlin Info Store, Grunerstrasse 20, Ground Floor, open Monday to Saturday 1000 to 2200, Sunday 1100 to 1500, extended hours April to October. The City of Berlin provides online information (website: www.berlin.de), some of it in English. Passes Berlin Tourismus Marketing offers the WelcomeCard, (website: www.berlin-welcomecard.de) which gives discounts on museums and attractions (including Schloss Sanssouci and Zoologischer Garten) as well as guided tours, boat trips and performances in both Berlin and Potsdam. The pass is available for 48 or 72 hours and covers one adult and up to three children. Also included in the price is unlimited travel on all buses and trains in zones A, B and C. The card can be purchased at tourist offices, transit ticket offices and some hotels. There is also the SchauLUST Museen Berlin three-day tourist pass, which gives free admission to more than 70 museums, including the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, the Pergamon Museum and Gemldegalerie. The pass is available at the main tourist offices. A day pass for all of the region's Prussian palaces and gardens can be purchased at Schloss Sanssouci. Key Attractions Potsdamer Platz and the New Centre After lying desolate for decades, except for the platform that allowed Westerners to peer over the Wall into the East, Potsdamer Platz is again part of Berlin's thriving centre - in the 1930s, it was the busiest square in Europe. In just a few years, the forest of cranes has given way to a new precinct full of shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment venues. The best place to see it all (as well as terrific views over the rest of Berlin) is from the Panorama-Point, at the top of the Kollhof building, reached by what is claimed to be one of the fastest lifts in Europe. One of the more interesting constructions is the Sony Centre, with its piazza covered by a futuristic sail-like roof. On the ground floor is the Filmmuseum Berlin, which recalls some of the city's great achievements in the early days of cinema and devotes considerable space to Marlene Dietrich. Potsdamer Platz Filmmuseum Berlin Potsdamer Strasse 2

Tel: (030) 300 9030. Website: www.filmmuseum-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2000. Admission charge. Panorama-Point Potsdamer Platz Tel: (030) 2529 4372. Website: www.panoramapunktotsdamerplatz.de Opening hours: Daily 1100-1930. Admission charge. Reichstag British architect Norman Foster has transformed the Reichstag, which was built at the end of the 19th century and has long since been emblematic of the German State. It was damaged in the fire of 1933, which marked Hitler's consolidation of power, and has now been renovated for the Bundestag (People's Assembly) of a reunited Germany. The dome is meant to symbolise the transparency of the democratic government and visitors can pass between its layers to witness the decision-making chamber of the government. There are free hourly talks on the visitor's gallery of the plenary during weeks when parliament is not in session - check this on the website and book in advance. Talks in English take place at 1200 on Tuesdays. Guided tours of the Reichstag also take place when parliament is not sitting. They last 90 minutes and are held at 1030, 1330, 1530 and 1830. Booking in advance in writing is recommended. The walk through the dome itself is stunning, culminating in sweeping views of the city. The rooftop restaurant (tel: (030) 2262 9933) provides a way to beat the queues. Platz der Republik Tel: (030) 2270. Website: www.bundestag.de Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400 (last admission 2200). Free admission. Berlin Wall Much of the Wall or the 'Anti-Fascist Protection Rampart', as the GDR (German Democratic Republic) authorities liked to call it, has succumbed - first to enthusiastic revellers and souvenir hunters and then more significantly to developers; only a few sections remain. The East Side Gallery (website: www.eastsidegallery.com), along Mhlenstrasse (S-Bahn Ostbahnhof), emerged in the post-Wall years as a poignant symbol of new hope, as it was covered with inspiring artwork. The Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer is a small graffiti-free stretch of the Wall that has been preserved by the authorities. A visitor centre has information about the Wall years, while a chapel is dedicated to the 80 or so victims that died trying to cross it. Perhaps the best place to get a sense of what the divided city was like is the Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, located next to the site where the famous border-crossing stood. A number of permanent exhibitions document the history of the Wall and place it into context, as well as record the famous paintings on the Western side of the division. A short walk from Checkpoint Charlie is the Topographie des Terrors, an informative open-air exhibition focused around a preserved section of wall and the former headquarters of the SS and Gestapo (demolished). Torture and suffering is documented, and an audio tour in English is available. Gedenksttte Bernauer Strasse 111 Website: www.the-berlin-wall.de or www.berlinermauer.de Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700 (visitors centre). Free admission.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Mauermuseum) Friedrichstrasse 43-45 Tel: (030) 253 7250. Website: www.mauer-museum.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200. Admission charge. Topographie des Terrors Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 Tel: (030) 2548 6703. Website: www.topographie.de Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000 (May-Sep); 1000-dark (Oct-Apr). Free admission. Unter den Linden and the Museumsinsel One of Berlin's most recognisable landmarks, the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), stands at the western end of Pariser Platz. Stretching eastwards from here is Unter den Linden, along which some of the city's richest cultural treasures lie. These include the Deutsche Staatsoper (German State Opera), the Neue Wache (New Guardhouse), which is now a memorial to the victims of fascism and tyranny, and the Zeughaus (Arsenal), which houses the Deutsches Historisches Museum (German Historical Museum). The Museumsinsel (Museum Island), at the eastern end of Unter den Linden, offers the Pergamonmuseum, containing a host of antiquities, including the enormous Pergamon altar, Bodemuseum and the massive, neo-baroque Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), opened in 1905 and recently renovated. Within the refurbished Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) is the 'Galerie der Romantik', a large collection of German and Austrian paintings from the first half of the 19th century. These include paintings by Caspar David Friedrich. There are also Impressionist works by Manet, Monet and Degas. The Altes Museum (Old Museum) is a striking neoclassical building, designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, which opened in 1830. The main floor houses a collection of antiquities, while the upstairs galleries house the collections of the Egyptian Museum, which will remain there until 2009 when they will move to the Neues Museum (currently being refurbished). It is possible to buy a joint ticket for all of the Museum Island museums. Altes Museum Am Lustgarten Tel: (030) 2090 5577 (recorded info) or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free for last four hours on Thurs. Deutsches Historisches Museum Unter den Linden 2 Tel: (030) 203 040. Website: www.dhm.de Opening times: Daily 1000-1800. Admission charge. Pergamonmuseum Am Kupfergraben Tel: (030) 2090 5577 or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de

Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge. Alte Nationalgalerie Bodestrasse Tel: (030) 2090 5577 or 266 3660. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge. Judische Museum (Jewish Museum) The striking design of this Daniel Libeskind-designed memorial to Jewish life in Berlin is based on a shattered Star of David. Even before the installation of the permanent exhibits (recalling the life and history of German Jews through the centuries), visitors came to experience the evocative spaces within this incredible structure. Lindenstrasse 9-14 Tel: (030) 2599 3300. Website: www.juedisches-museum-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-2000, Mon 1000-2200; closed on Jewish holidays. Admission charge. Schloss Charlottenburg and museums The Charlottenburg Palace was built in 1699, as a summer residence for Sophie Charlotte, the wife of King Frederick 11. Visits to the Old Palace are by guided tour only. Prices and hours vary for the New Wing, the Orangerie, the mausoleum and other parts of the complex. The museums and galleries that are in and around the palace include the Berggruen Collection, opposite the palace, which contains 100 artworks by Picasso, as well as a representative collection of his contemporaries. Schloss Charlottenburg Spandauer Damm 10-22 Tel: (030) 320 911. Website: www.spsg.de Opening hours: Old Palace: Tues-Sun 0900-1700, last tour at 1600; Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Apr-Oct); New Wing: 1100-1700 (Nov-Apr); grounds open daily 0600-2100 (summer); daily 0600-2000 (winter). Admission charge. Museum Berggruen Westlicher Stlerbau, Schlossstrasse 1 Tel: (030) 3267 4811. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. Kulturforum (Cultural Forum) Located in the west of the city, the Kulturforum is a cultural centre, grouping together all the museums that have European art as their chief focus, including a Musikinstrumenten-museum (Musical Instrument Museum), a hall for chamber music and the Philharmonie concert house, home to the Berlin Philharmonic orchestra. The opening of the Gemldegalerie (Painting Gallery) in 1998 brought a stunning collection of 13th- to 18th-century paintings to the site. It joined the Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) and the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). The latter, built to the designs of Mies van der Rohe, contains German Expressionist and Realist art, as well as other works of the 20th century. There is also a sculpture garden.

Philharmonie und Kammermusiksaal Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 1 Tel: (030) 2548 8999 (ticket hotline). Website: www.berlin-philharmonic.com Opening hours: Shows generally Fri-Sun 1600 and 2000 (depending on programme); guided tours daily 1300. Admission charge. Musikinstrumenten-museum Tiergartenstrasse 1 Tel: (030) 254 810. Website: www.sim.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri 0900-1700, Thurs until 2200, Sat and Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Gemldegalerie Kulturforum, Matthikirchplatz 4-6 Tel: (030) 266 2951 (information). Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Kunstgewerbemuseum (closed second quarter of 2008-August 2009) Kulturforum, Herbert-von-Karajan St 10 Tel: (030) 266 2951 (information). Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat and Sun 1100-1800. Admission charge. Neue Nationalgalerie Kulturforum, Potsdamer Strasse 50 Tel: (030) 266 2951. Website: www.smb.spk-berlin.de Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2200. Admission charge; free Thurs evening. Centrum Judaicum - Neue Synagogue (Jewish Centre - New Synagogue) The Neue Synagogue was completed in 1866. Its location in the heart of the Scheunenviertel (Berlin's Jewish district) suffered serious bomb damage in 1943. Thanks to renovation in the mid 1990s, its Moorish dome can now be seen in its original glory. The synagogue houses a Jewish Centre, with an exhibition. The Alter Jdischer Friedhof (Old Jewish Cemetery) is a short walk away, at Schnhauser Allee 23-25 (open Monday to Thursday 0800 to 1600 and Friday 0800 to 1300). Oranienburger Strasse 28-30 Tel: (030) 8802 8300. Website: www.cjudaicum.de Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri 1000-1400 (Oct-Mar); Sun and Mon 1000-2000, Tues-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri 1000-1700 (Apr-Sep); closed on Jewish holidays; guided tours Sun 1400 and 1600, Wed 1600. Dome closed Oct-Mar. Admission charge. Shopping For years, the Kurfrstendamm or Ku'damm for short was the place to shop in Berlin, with names such

as Yves St Laurent and Jil Sander. This elegant boulevard of shops and department stores also has designer boutiques and shopping passages tucked down its side streets, particularly around the U-Bahn Uhlandstrasse station and along Fasanenstrasse where you can find chic designer stores like Chanel. The Europa-Center is also unmistakable, as it has a large revolving Mercedes-Benz symbol on its roof. The most famous address is Kaufhaus des Westens or KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, the largest department store in Europe - its food hall is enormous. However, the West's pre-eminence for Berlin shoppers is facing challenges from the revitalised areas of East Berlin. Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse have both blossomed since reunification, with boutiques, designer outlets such as Gucci and department stores such as Quartier 206 and the Galeries Lafayette shopping centre. Even this is changing with the completion of ALEXA, the new five-level shopping and leisure centre at Grunerstrasse 20 and the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden shopping mall which are luring away shoppers from other, more established areas. Also in the East are the boutiques and individual shops in the Hackesche Hofe, Weinmesterstrasse and the many galleries in the Scheunenviertel, just to the north. For innovative clothing, Heckmannhfe, Oranienburger Strasse 32, is the place for shoppers to head, with the likes of Hut Up, with its bold woollens, Nix, with its urban chic, and Sterling Gold, with its array of weird and wonderful second-hand cocktail and evening dresses. There is even a shop devoted to the Ampelmann, Rosenthaler Strasse, East Berlin's 'walk/don't walk' man. Other areas worth exploring are around Rosenhote, Alte Schonhaustrasse and Neue Schonhaustrasse. For markets, there is the traditional fruit and vegetable market at Winterfeldtplatz, open Wednesday and Saturday 0800 to 1300. You can find more interesting objects at the Trdelmarkt (Flea Market) and Arts and Crafts Market, along Strasse des 17 Juni, open Saturday and Sunday 1100 to 1700. Shops in Berlin can choose their own opening hours. However they are generally open Monday to Saturday 0900/1000 to 2000, and some Sundays. Smaller shops might close a little earlier, especially on Saturdays. The VAT rate in Germany is 19% on regular goods and Visitors from outside the EU can reclaim a portion of that on goods worth over 25.

Beijing Mini Guide

Capital city of the People's Republic of China (PRC). Construction cranes rule the horizon, new hotels, shopping malls and commercial plazas (not to mention 37 sports stadiums and 59 training facilities) are springing up at giddying speed and old sectors of the city are being razed and modernized. Hosting the Olympic Games represents the ultimate statement of China's emergence as a global superpower, and it is determined to make the People's Olympics' the most successful and dazzling ever staged. Beijing's high-speed physical makeover moves hand-in-hand with a firmly retained grip on China's rich cultural heritage and strict communist social order. A monolithic showcase city, Beijing can give a distorted view of China to foreign visitors. Its soaring modern architecture and vast international hotels are juxtaposed with grandiose socialist municipal buildings and connected by an often confusing system of broad boulevards and ring roads around the city. Rush hour traffic jams can match (and frequently beat) those of any major world city and the city's air pollution can be eyewatering. Beyond the modernity, Beijing offers a bountiful hotpot of tourism attractions, including the fast-disappearing hutong (see Excursions), parks, architectural and cultural treasures and exquisite temples - and, of course, serves as a base to visit the Great Wall of China (see Excursions). Beijing became China's capital in 1421 and was to remain so until the collapse of the imperial regime in 1911. From 1911 to 1949 Beijing suffered, as did the rest of China, from the internecine wars fought between various factions trying to take control of the whole country. The Japanese invasion in 1931 was followed by a bitter civil war, which finally led to communist supremacy under Mao Zedong and the founding of the People's Republic of China (announced at the Gate of Heavenly Peace at the entrance to the Forbidden City) with Beijing as the capital. The first 10 years of Mao's rule stabilised a fearful, humiliated nation and strong advances were made in industry, agriculture, education and health care. However, in 1966, Mao launched the Cultural Revolution, a frenzied attack on liberal political, historical and social thought, the cruel legacy of which is still felt across the country.

Following Mao's death in 1976, President Deng Xiaoping gradually opened up China to the outside world, welcoming foreigners as both investors and tourists, and empowering Chinese entrepreneurs to set up businesses. Though the undoubted political, academic and cultural capital of China, Beijing remained in the commercial shadow of its powerful east coast nemesis, Shanghai, which swallowed a huge proportion of foreign investment flowing into China. However, after the awarding of the 2008 Olympic Games to Beijing in 2001, the capital has embarked upon a massive infrastructural investment programme and has benefited from higher levels of foreign capital creating jobs, affluence and funds to invest in the city's pre-Olympic redevelopment. There's only one place to begin exploring the city - Tiananmen Square, where Mao Zedong declared the foundation of the People's Republic. Though more closely identified with the suppression of the student-led pro-democracy protests of 1989, the world's largest public square is an impressive tourism centrepiece, and now features a giant Olympic countdown clock. To stand (alongside thousands of visitors) and see the imposing majesty of the Forbidden City to the north and the vast portrait of Mao Zedong on the Tiananmen Gate itself is to appreciate the indubitable centrality of the capital to all aspects of the Chinese psyche. For further confirmation, turn around and see the snaking queue of people preparing to enter Chairman Mao's mausoleum. Beijing is at its best in late spring and, particularly, autumn when crisp, sunny days are accompanied by tree leaves turning glorious shades of red and gold. The searing heat of summer and the biting winds in winter can be extreme. City Statistics

Location: Beijing special municipality, China. Dialling code:86. Population:15,244,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone:GMT + 8 (GMT + 7 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity:220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: - 3C (27F).

Average July temperatures: 26C (79F). Annual rainfall: 890mm (34.7 inches).

Sightseeing
Over the centuries, Beijing has suffered the effects of war and revolution, large-scale industrialisation and a building boom to meet the demands of a growing, modern Olympic city. Skyscrapers loom over colourful temples and the intimate courtyards of the rapidly-vanishing hutongs, while traffic crawls along the streets surrounding tranquil parks. Beijing used to be a walled city but little remains now apart from the grand Tiananmen and Qianmen gates, located at either end of Tiananmen Square. The vast imposing square is home to the Great Hall of the People, China's parliament, the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall, where the body of Chairman Mao rests, the Monument to the People's Heroes, an obelisk depicting major events of the revolution and a giant Olympic countdown clock. Beijing's key attractions are listed below, but the city and its surrounds are historically and culturally rich. If time allows, it is worth including the Old Observatory on an itinerary. Established by Kublai Khan, it is now a museum with an extensive collection of Ming and Qing dynasty bronze astronomical instruments. The Beijing Zoo is the world-famous home of the giant pandas and merits a visit, as does the Marco Polo Bridge in the southwest of the city. To the northwest, the 798 Factory Art District at Dashanzi (website: www.798space.com) is gaining global recognition for its portfolio of galleries and art museums showcasing the works of China's much-in-demand new breed of contemporary artists. Away from the centre, most visitors go to Badaling (see Excursions) to walk on the Great Wall, but another less-touristy section at Mutianyu, to the northeast of the city, has spectacular views and fewer people. It is worth including Zhou Kou Dian (Peking Man Site), 48km (30 miles) southwest of Beijing, the site where skulls dating back between 200,000 and 500,000 years were found in 1929. The original fossils were lost during WWII, but there is an interesting museum housing many implements and animal bones from that period. Tourist Information Beijing Tourism Administration

28 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District

Tel: (10) 8516 2288. Website: www.bjta.gov.cn Passes

There are no tourist passes in Beijing. Key Attractions Tiananmen Square Located at the heart of modern Beijing, the vast Tiananmen Square was renovated during the first half of 1999, in preparation for the celebrations of the 50th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China. Attractions in the square include the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, where Mao Zedong's preserved body is on display, the Museum of the Revolution, the Great Hall of the People and the entrance to the Forbidden City.

Chairman Mao Memorial Hall Opening hours: Sun-Tues 0830-1130 and Wed-Fri 1400-1600. Free admission. China National Museum Opening hours: Daily 0900-1530. Admission charge. Great Hall of the People Opening hours: 0830-1500, but closed during government meetings. Admission charge.
Forbidden City Built in the 15th century, the Forbidden City (or Palace Museum) is a vast complex of courtyards, halls, pavilions and gardens, which was home to 24 emperors from the Ming and Qing dynasties. It now houses a vast collection of priceless relics, including paintings, ancient pottery and bronzes, and is one of several UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city. Tiananmen Square Tel: (10) 6513 2255. Website: www.dpm.org.cn Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (10 Apr-14 Oct); 0830-1630 (15 Oct-31 Mar). Admission charge. Temple of Heaven

Just south of Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Heaven (located within Temple of Heaven Park) is China's largest temple complex, built in the 15th century and used for prayer by the emperor to ask for good harvests. The architecture of the temple is exquisite and the roofs are covered with blue glazed tiles. The grounds of this UNESCO World Heritage Site also contain the Echo Wall, which carries the merest whisper. Tian Tan Lu (north gate entrance) Tel: (10) 6702 8866. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800; daily 0600-2000 (park). Admission charge. Lama Temple Located in the northeast of the city, the Lama Temple, built in the late 17th century, used to be a centre of learning for the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Lamaism. Today, there are about 70 monks (or lamas) in residence. The temple consists of a series of halls, connected by courtyards. An impressive 18m (59ft) Maitreya, carved from a single sandalwood tree, stands in the furthermost hall, which is accessible to the public. Yonghe Gong Dajie Tel: (10) 6904 4494. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Admission charge. Drum Tower and Bell Tower Every Chinese city once had drum and bell towers that were used to advise citizens of the time of day and announce curfews. The Beijing Drum Tower, in the north of the city, was originally built in the 13th century and reconstructed around 1420 when the Bell Tower was first built. The towers, which are quite different in style, offer good views across Beijing. Di'an Men Wai Dajie Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission charge. Summer Palace The Summer Palace in the northwestern suburbs, was used by the royal court as a retreat to escape from the heat of the city and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Recently the recipient of a pre-Olympic makeover, the former imperial residences are located on the shores of Kunming Lake, which contains small islands, ornamental bridges and a marble boat that was once a teahouse. The Summer Palace is best reached by taxi.

Northwest suburbs Tel: (10) 6288 1610. Opening hours: Daily 0630-1800 in summer, 0700-1730 in low season. Admission charge. Shopping A wide range of consumer goods (both local and imported) are now available and shopping malls, luxury brand outlets and car dealerships are mushrooming across the city. The vast Oriental Plaza mall on Wangfujing Dajieis has many brand stores, as well as a popular food court and supermarket. The China World Centre and Peninsula Hotel Plaza cater to those with upscale brand obsessions and large wallets. The main shopping area is pedestrianised Wangfujing Dajie, crammed with foreign brand outlets and department stores. The best clothes shops are on Dong Dan Bei Dajie, as well as Silk Alley, Xiushui Dong Jie off Jianguomenwai Dajie, which also has silk stalls. Here, prices are displayed but it is worth bargaining. Collectors of antiques should make for Liulichang, a few minutes' walk south of Heping Men subway station. This market is crammed with ancient-style shops, reconstructed in a traditional way and stocking a bewildering array of antiques and curios. Note that antiques over 100 years old are marked with a red wax seal and an export licence must be issued in order to take them out of the country. The enormous, open-air weekend market at Panjiayuan Jiuhuo Shichang has great bargains on items such as jade, wood panelling, pottery and bric-a-brac.

Hong Kong Mini Guide

Situated at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta on the southwestern coast of China, is a destination imbued with a remarkable mix of Eastern and Western influences. Since the handover from British colonial to Chinese sovereignty in 1997 it has become far more Chinese than ever before, but for tourists the joy of visiting lies in being wedged between two diverse cultures simultaneously. Hong Kong Island with its financial hub known as Central is the energetic heartbeat of the region. Its cloud-tickling skyscrapers and neon light night spectacular accentuate the capitalist (and often hedonistic) pursuits of its inhabitants, many of them expats. Fine dining, high-end shopping and world-class hotels are all part of the landscape. Get down to street level however and the laneways, wet markets and traditional Chinese haunts are a reminder that beyond the city lies a working class populace still making ends meet the old way - and often the hard way. Similarly, out of the centre in suburbs such as Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, old and new face a head-on battle. Traditional buildings are frequently knocked down and street markets hidden indoors to make way for yet another air-conditioned shopping mall or faceless apartment building. Visitors should take heed and explore these charismatic backstreets before they disappear. Just across the harbour forming the other half of the main conurbation is Kowloon, a bustling eclectic hub where visitors are likely to find Gucci and Prada on one block then noodle kitchens, Indian tailors and fake handbag salesmen on the next. Further north are the New Territories, which form a slightly more rural hinterland despite the forest of high-rise apartment buildings that make Hong Kong the fourth densest population on the planet. The large islands of Lamma and Lantau and the smaller Outlying Islands complete the patchwork. Remarkably, almost 40% of Hong Kong territory is designated nature reserve or country park, providing unsung natural beauties in the shape of looming mountains, secluded islets, white beaches, hiking trails and island landscapes. This geographic assortment sits in range of the South China Sea's typhoon alley. In winter and early spring, the climate can be mild and fresh but come May, the everpresent humidity skyrockets and summer is both hot and frequently wet. Typhoons hit during summer and early autumn and, even without them, ferocious rainstorms fall intermittently. For locals, a signal eight typhoon can mean a day off work. For visitors the tremulous weather is just another factor that makes Hong Kong such a diverse and unique destination.

City Statistics
Location: Special Administrative Region (SAR), People's Republic of China. Dialling code: 852. Population: 6,663,100 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 8. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are common, although round three-pin and two-pin plugs are also in use. Average January temperatures: 17C (63F). Average July temperatures: 29C (84F). Annual rainfall: 2,214mm (88.5 inches).

Sightseeing
Hong Kong can be one of the most engaging and unexpectedly beautiful urban spectacles on earth. A two-minute walk from the bustle of Central reveals a harbour view that the architectural boom of the 1980s and 1990s has turned into a mixture of Manhattan and San Francisco, with added shipping bustle. After dark, it just gets better. The view of Hong Kong's glittering lights from the Peak by night is unforgettable, particularly at 2000 when the nightly Symphony of Lights laser and music show invigorates the towers of Central and Kowloon's Tsim Sha Tsui. By contrast, the south side of Hong Kong Island, at Stanley or Repulse Bay, is an entrancing islandscape straight out of a classical Chinese ink painting. And any backstreet market provides folksy, ethnic charm by the barrow load. Lamma Island provides a picturesque (power plant excepted) getaway and some excellent seafood restaurants and vegetarian cafes. Old colonial Hong Kong may have been short on grand monuments but the now famous Bank of China and the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) give the place a 21st-century buzz suited to one of the Pacific Rim's most pivotal economic hubs. These buildings share the limelight with the rainbow-coloured light show of The Center skyscraper, the waterside steel wings of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition

Centre and the soaring International Finance Center complex, Hong Kong's tallest building. Die-hard colonialists can content themselves with Government House, the Former French Mission Building, the Former Gate Lodge on the peak, the Former KowloonCanton Railway Clock Tower, the Former Kowloon British School and a host of other Olds' and Formers'. There are far older relics of the region's past still surviving the relentless forward drive, especially out in the New Territories. These include the Causeway Bay Tin Hau Temple, Law Uk Hakka House, Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb, Sam Tung Uk Village, Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall, Kun Lung Wai Gate Tower, Yeung Hau Temple and so on. Hong Kong pinned much of its hopes as a tourist centre on Lantau Island's Hong Kong Disneyland, but it has failed to live up to expectations. Instead, the city's closer cooperation and transport links with neighbouring Macau, which is developing as a major casino tourism destination and potential low-cost airline hub in Asia, are more likely to yield tourist dollars. Tourist Information Hong Kong Tourism Board Visitor Information Centre

Hong Kong International Airport (at Transfer Area E2 and Buffer Halls A and B) Opening Hours: Daily 0700-2300. Passes
The HKTB Museum Pass gives unlimited admission to Hong Kong Museum of Art, Hong Kong Heritage Museum, Hong Kong Science Museum, Hong Kong Space Museum, Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence, Hong Kong Museum of History and Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum as well as some discounts in the museum shops. Valid for one week, the pass is available from HKTB offices and participating museums. Key Attractions Statue Square Previously not a feature of traditional Hong Kong tourist itineraries, Statue Square is now a must-see, on account of its dazzling ensemble of modernist buildings. The headquarters building of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) forms the south side of the square and just to the east of it is I M Pei's Bank of China Tower. Less distinguished but equally prominent buildings jostle around them, towering over the colonial remnant of St John's Cathedral. In more antiquated contrast, the Legislative Council Building, formerly the Supreme Court, on the east side of the square, houses Hong Kong's partly elected assembly.

The bizarre profile of Norman Foster's masterpiece may not look monumental on paper (it is on most Hong Kong dollar banknotes) but in the flesh (or steel) it is tremendous. Opened in 1986, the HSBC building exemplified the fashion for atriums in world architecture and an escalator ride up into the belly of the building. The building has no central core (bridge engineering techniques secure the walls and its infrastructure is on the outside) so all 11 storeys of the central atrium are open and unobstructed. Deliberately planned to dwarf the neighbouring Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Building, the Bank of China Tower is now Hong Kong's 'national' monument. The ChineseAmerican architect, I M Pei, developed Beijing's triumphalist intentions into a soaring, gracefully irregular pinnacle, the design characteristics of which inspire lively debate among connoisseurs of feng shui. The triangular and hexagonal structural logic requires some minutes of puzzled scrutiny. Visitors can ascend to the 43rd of the building's 72 floors for a particularly stunning view of Central. Standing beside the Star Ferry terminal is the soaring 88-storey International Finance Centre (known as 'Two IFC' - One IFC building is older and much smaller). The building is for now Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper at 420m (1,378ft) and the seventh tallest in the world - the Union Square Phase 7 will be taller once completed in 2010. Topped by a sculptural crown' reaching inward and outward, the buildings tapered upward appearance is achieved by smaller floor areas towards the top. The building featured in the movies Tomb Raider II and The Dark Knight. It is home to a Four Seasons hotel and the city's showpiece shopping mall, as well as a cinema and a fine portfolio of cafes, restaurants and bars. Central Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Building Des Voeux Road, Statue Square Tel: 2822 1111. Website: www.hsbc.com.hk Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Sat 0900-1230. Free admission. Bank of China Tower 2A Des Voeux Road, 1 Garden Road Tel: 2826 6888. Website: www.bochk.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-2130, Sat and Sun 0930-2330. Admission charge.

International Finance Center 8 Finance Street Website: www.ifc.com.hk Victoria Peak (The Peak) A miniature hill station in colonial times, Victoria Peak is stratospheric in its social exclusiveness and its rents. Groundlings can still visit, however, ascending by the vertiginous Peak Tram - a funicular in use since 1888, which feels more like a Victorianera Space Shuttle, or by taxi or bus. Atop the hill is the Peak Tower (a slightly bizarre viewing platform with displays and other facilities) as well as the revamped Peak Galleria shopping arcade and several restaurants, ranging from Bubba Gump Shrimp company to exquisite Japanese fare at Kyo Hachi. Dinner at Caf Deco, in the Peak Galleria, is a must-do Hong Kong experience - the view down into central Hong Kong and across the water to Kowloon defies description, day or night. Hikers can scale the real peak, some 140m (459ft) above the tram terminus, or take the leisurely Peak Circuit walk with vistas over Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the outlying islands. Both are signposted. Garden Road (Lower Peak Tram Terminus) Tel: 2849 7654. Website: www.thepeak.com.hk Opening hours: Daily 0700-2400 (Peak Tram). Admission charge. Star Ferry The green and white tub-shaped ferries have been a familiar sight around Hong Kong since the 1920s and are a much-cherished symbol of the city. Far more important, however, is the fact that their decks give one of the best available views, day or night, of the waterfronts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon - not to mention the plethora of ocean traffic surging through the shipping lanes. Central, Tsim Sha Tsui, Wan Chai and Hung Hom Star Ferry terminals Tel: 2367 7065. Website: www.starferry.com.hk Operating hours: Daily 0616-2330 depending on service. Admission charge. Happy Valley Races Wednesday night is horse racing night in Happy Valley where the floodlit racecourse, hemmed in by towering apartment buildings and steep hills, attracts hardcore Chinese gamblers (it's the only legal form of gambling Hong Kong) and boozing expats alike.

Hong Kongers pack the Happy Valley tram after work for this social event and tourists tag along for the buzz. Order a beverage from the beer marquee and stand along the barrier as the horses come up the home straight or take in the view from the amphitheatre-esque grandstand. 2 Sports Road, Happy Valley Tel: 2895 1523. Operating hours: Sep-June. First race 1930. Admission charge (free with passport stamped within month). Western Market This former market (a four-storey red brick Edwardian building dating from 1906 and occupying an entire block at the western end of Central) was reopened in 1991, as a shopping centre featuring small shops, souvenir stands and curio sellers. Ground-floor shops sell unique merchandise rather than chain store goods, while the first floor recreates the old 'Cloth Alley', selling silks and fabrics of all kinds. There is also a dim sum restaurant and a fine antique-shop cafe. Connaught Road Tel: 2543 6878. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900. Free admission. Mid-Levels Escalator Not just any escalator, the Mid-Levels Escalator is the world's longest at 800m (2,622ft) and was built as a commuter aid for this wealthy residential hillside. The city fathers reportedly balked at the cost of twin stairways, so there is only one escalator, running downhill in the morning and uphill thereafter, until midnight. It gives a fine (and free) view of (and access to) the streets of the fashionable Soho district, which is packed with restaurants, bars and, around Hollywood Road, excellent art and antiques stores and galleries. Central Market (corner of Queens Road and Jubilee Street) to Conduit Road Operating hours: Daily 0700-1030 (downhill), 1030-2400 (uphill). Free admission. Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware Situated in the beautiful Hong Kong Park and overlooking the ultramodern mania of Central, Flagstaff House, dating from 1846, is the former residence of the colonial Commander-in-Chief and the oldest surviving colonial building in Hong Kong. It now houses a fine museum of tea ware, seals and other ceramics.

10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central Tel: 2869 0690. Website: www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Arts/english/tea/intro/eintro.html Opening hours: 1000-1700 (closed Tues). Free admission. Hong Kong Museum of History It is somehow fitting that this go-ahead territory has its history commemorated in a dazzling new building. Opened in late 2000, the museum building, situated next to the Hong Kong Science Museum in Kowloon, houses exhibits covering the region's history from prehistoric times, including some spectacular period sets. There are traditional costumes, a huge collection of period photographs, replicas of old village houses and an entire street, circa 1881, with its own Chinese medicine store. There are also numerous temporary exhibitions. 100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2724 9042. Website: www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History/index.php Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1000-1900. Admission charge. Wong Tai Sin Temple An ornate traditional temple in the heart of Kowloon, Wong Tai Sin Temple combines Buddhist, Confucian and Taoist traditions. Wong Tai Sin himself was a Zhejiang shepherd/alchemist who supposedly concocted a marvellous cure-all. His statue in the main building was brought from the mainland in 1915. The building is spectacularly colourful with its red pillars, golden ceiling and decorated latticework, although not particularly distinguished. Far more fascinating are the fortune-tellers in their arcade of booths and the throngs of worshippers. This is also Hong Kong's number one temple for Chinese New Year celebrations. Tai Sin Road, Kowloon Tel: 2327 8141. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1730. Free admission. Ngong Ping 360 The 5.7km (3.5 miles) Ngong Ping 360 cablecar, travelling between Tung Chung Town Centre and Ngong Ping on Lantau Island, offers stunning views across North Lantau Country Park, Tung Ching Bay and the giant Tian Tan Bhudda statue. Part of the

development is Ngong Ping Village, a small theme park incorporating family-friendly attractions such as Walking with Buddha, the Monkey's Tale Theatre, the Ngong Ping Tea House and several dining, retail and entertainment outlets. 11 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau Island Website: www.np360.com.hk Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1830. Admission charge. Disneyland Hong Kong Disneyland is set in the lush setting of Lantau Island. The park incorporates four lands (Main Street USA, Fantasyland, Adventureland and Tomorrowland) and two hotels. Visitors can meet characters old and new, from Mickey Mouse to Buzz Lightyear, and can tour the park aboard the Hong Kong Disneyland Railroad. Attractions range from the adventurous Jungle River Cruise to the magical Sleeping Beauty Castle to the dizzying heights of Orbitron, where guests can pilot their own rocket. Live entertainment includes the Festival of the Lion King, inspired by the Disney film, while cuisine caters for both Western and Asian tastes. Penny's Bay, Lantau Island Tel: 183 0830. Website: www.hongkongdisneyland.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2100 (summer); Mon-Fri 1000-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-1200 (winter). Admission charge. Shopping Once famous for bargain electronics and imitation brand names, Hong Kong is no longer as cheap as it once was and prices are now closer to European or American averages if not higher. Real bargain hunters would be better off going to Bangkok or mainland China. Shops selling Chinese art objects and souvenirs cluster around the escalator up to the Mid-Levels and nearby Cat Street. More expensive antiques, art and collectibles can be found along Hollywood Road. However, any bargain hunter also planning to visit mainland China should do their research in Hong Kong but save their purchases for north of the border. Within Hong Kong, Shanghai Tang, right by Central MTR station, is probably the best venue for quality Chinese goods - silks, fabrics, ornaments and furniture. Mall rats in Hong Kong have plenty of warrens to choose from. The swishest of the lot, IFC Mall in Central, has everything from Swarovski crystal to McDonald's burgers, Pacific Place, in Admiralty, has three floors of almost entirely luxury brands, while The

Landmark and Prince's Arcade vie for the custom of chic Central. Harbour City near the Star Ferry terminal in Kowloon is jam-packed with designer brands and boasts a flashy Lane Crawford, HK's own upmarket department store. Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong MTR station, in northern Kowloon, is worth the long trip from Central, for its variety and quality. Causeway Bay has the big Japanese department store, Sogo, and Hong Kong born Sino-influenced homeware store G.O.D as well as the towering Times Square. Fake watches and handbags, and tacky souvenirs are best purchased either along the hotel strip of Nathan Road on Kowloon Side or at Stanley Market. Nathan Road is also the place to find cheap tailors but expect to bargain hard. There are computer superstores at Causeway Bay, Wan Chai and Mong Kok, full of tiny booths selling the silicon equivalent of Hong Kong tailoring and teenage hustlers pushing pirated software. However, for most electrical goods, there are worse places than the many branches of the Fortress chain. Hong Kong has many markets. One of the most delightful is the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, on Prince Edward Road West, in Kowloon (see Further Distractions). Open daily 0700-2000, this market is primarily concerned with the sale of song birds. Nearby, on Tung Choi Street, is a flower market and a goldfish market. For gifts or collectibles the Jade Market at the junction of Kansan and Battery streets in You Ma Tie, Kowloon is a good option. Standard opening hours are daily 0930-1900 and later in many cases.

Tokyo Mini Guide

Tokyo is a city that defies definition. Cutting edge technology glitters beside ancient temples, flashing neon lights bathe kimono-clad women, and shining skyscrapers tower above stunning Shinto shrines. At first glance a city clogged by polluting cars and harassed commuters, Tokyo has spots of tranquility and beautiful detail that amaze and astonish. Home to over 12 million people, this is a city with a history and a heart that captivates every visitor. This sprawling megalopolis on the Pacific coast of Honshu is on the largest of the 6,800 Japanese islands. In 1590, the city was founded as Edo, the capital of the shoguns, the succession of hereditary absolute rulers of Japan and commander of the Japanese army. Edo boasted its own vibrant culture, the celebrated floating world of pleasure quarters, theatres and cherry blossoms, immortalized in the Japanese woodblock prints of the time. Following the fall of the shoguns in 1867 (and the restoration of the power of the Emperor), the city was renamed Tokyo, the Eastern Capital, heralding its rebirth as a dynamic modern city and the showpiece of a rapidly modernizing country. Despite the catastrophic 1923 earthquake, which killed 140,000 and left a further 1.9 million people homeless, and near obliteration during WWII, Tokyo rose from the ashes. Now a bewildering amalgamation of districts and neighbourhoods, Tokyo still thrive as a coherent whole, due to the extraordinarily efficient network of rail and underground lines that crisscross and encircle the city. These are Tokyos arteries, transporting legions of businesspeople, office workers and students from the suburbs and depositing them in vast stations. Two million people a day pass through Shinjuku Station alone. The towering business districts swarm with soberly dressed corporate warriors and the demure young secretaries known as office flowers. The architectural anarchy and sheer crush of humanity assaults the senses. Amid the frenzy of consumerism, brash electronics outlets are crammed next to refined upscale boutiques and hordes of giggling schoolgirls swoon over pop idols and the latest fashions in glitzy emporiums. Downtown, old neighbourhoods cluster around antiquated shopping arcades and the clatter of the temple bell echoes across the rooftops. Here, the rhythms of the seasons are still observed. Tokyoites flock to ring in the New Year at the venerable Shinto shrines and springtime brings a flurry of flower-viewing parties and picnics under the

cherry blossoms. Rowdy, traditional festivals punctuate the humid summers and the spirit of the old Edo also survives in the neon-bathed entertainment districts: modern-day floating worlds of karaoke and cinemas, shot bars and bathhouses. Traditional kabuki theatre thrives alongside opera, ballet and symphonic performances, and Tokyoites are passionate about sumo, baseball and now, thanks partly to the 2002 World Cup, football. With the latest figures estimating an incredible 60,000 eateries in Tokyo and home to the worlds largest fish market, food is an obsession even closer to Japanese hearts. From bowls of steaming ramen noodles to delicate slices of sashimi, chefs compete to offer the freshest produce, and presentation is elevated to an art form. Japan was once an economic powerhouse inviting the envy of the world, but continuing recession, bank collapses and financial scandals have swept away the financial certainties of the past. With the arrival of the more yen conscious economy, however, Tokyo has become a much more affordable destination. To the surprise of many, travelling and entertaining in this bustling city no longer requires a second mortgage. And with grooming and shopping followed with almost religious fervor, very little economic trepidation is evident to spoil a visitors fun. Visiting the city is a pleasure at any time, except perhaps the sweltering heat of summer (July and August). While winter in the city is cold and crisp, spring (March to May) is the highlight of the year for many, with the arrival of delicate cherry blossoms inspiring sake-soaked picnics in the citys parks and avenues. Autumn (September to November) sees the oppressive summer heat give way to balmy days and golden leaves. But avoid Golden Week (late Apr-May) and New Year (late Dec-early Jan), the two most important festivals in the Shinto calendar, because the city closes down. But with festivals celebrated almost every week, whenever you visit there is always something of the old Japan to experience. Thanks to the determination of the Japanese government to attract foreign visitors, Tokyo is becoming ever easier to navigate. A recent redesign of the subway map makes travelling on the citys excellent public transport extremely easy. English signage is good and getting better, while learning a few basics in Japanese will go a long way to help navigate the sprawling citys streets. With recent statistics heralding an unprecedented rise in tourist numbers, Tokyo is

inspiring more western visitors than ever before. Hurtling towards the future while respecting its past, this unique city and the people that live there offer visitors an experience they will never forget. City Statistics

Location: Kanto region, eastern Japan. Dialling code: 81. Population: 8,457,000 (city); 12,544,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 9. Electricity: 100 volts AC, 50/60Hz; flat two-pin American-style plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 6C (42F). Average July temperatures: 26C (78F). Annual rainfall: 1,519mm (60 inches).

Sightseeing
From the hectic multi-road crossing at Shinjuku (made famous in Lost in Translation) to the peaceful tree filled gardens at the Meiji Shrine, the city's key sights are varied and mesmerising. Watch the fashion-obsessed teens every Sunday in Shibuya, step back in time in Asakusa's crowded street stalls and revel in the neon lit view from the top of Roppongi's Tokyo Tower. The reclaimed island of Odaiba is Tokyo's ultimate bubble era project, the wildly popular Roppongi Hills complex gives a glimpse into the city's future. For those looking for a timeless Japan ritual head for Ueno Park, where the trees burst into cherry blossom every spring. Unlike other cities of its size and significance, however, Tokyo lacks a definable centre or landmark. Instead the city is divided into separate and wholly distinct neighbourhoods, each with their own secrets to discover. The best way to navigate these mini-cities is on the excellent Metro system, specifically the Yamanote Line, a commuter train loop which passes through many of Tokyo's major stations. But as with all of Japan, the key to discovering the true Tokyo lies in the details. Simply

wandering though an area reveals the secrets that make this city so unique. But with no street names, finding exactly where a building is in Tokyo can be fiendishly difficult. Buying a detailed bilingual map will certainly help, and with so little crime to solve, the police in their boxes (called koban) on practically every corner are both plentiful and experienced in redirecting the lost gaijin traveller. Lastly, study the large and detailed maps on display at every Metro station. These clearly show which exit is needed, in English. Tourist Information The Japanese National Tourist Organisation (JNTO) runs two Tourist Information Centers (TIC) in Tokyo, one in Narita Airport and one in central Tokyo. They both offer a wealth of information to the new arrival; detailed maps, guides to Japanese culture and hotel information. English speaking staff can book your accommodation commission free and are a fantastic source of local knowledge. Tokyo Tourist Information Center (TIC) 10F, Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan Building, 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tel: (03) 3201 3331. Website: www.jnto.go.jp Passes There are no sightseeing pass as such in Tokyo, but a couple of guides printed by the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau offer discount vouchers to foreign visitors. The Tokyo Museum Guide for example offers discounts in 12 art galleries and museums, while the Tokyo Handy Guide covers 37 affiliated attractions. Key Attractions Here is a brief introduction to eight of the leading neighbourhoods in Tokyo, and the key sights to see in each of them. ROPPONGI Perhaps the least noticeably Japanese' of all the neighbourhoods, Roppongi is where many expats go to party. Filled for years with packed bars, clubs and restaurants, the area saw the beginning of a new era with the triumphant opening of the Roppongi Hills complex in 2003. With visitor numbers now climbing to 300,000 each weekend, the success of this shining beacon to consumerism inspired the Mid-town Project, which opened in March 2007 on the other side of the neighbourhood. This complex includes the tallest building in Tokyo, the Midtown Tower, which rises 54 storeys and 248m in height, and is home to the city's first Ritz Carlton hotel. There are also designer emporiums, luxury apartments, two museums (the relocated Suntory Museum of Art and

the new 21_21 Design Sight), a beautiful park, and a host of eateries. The striking new National Arts Centre is just down the road. Transport: Roppongi Station (Hibiya or Oedo line). Website: www.tokyo-midtown.com

The Suntory Museum of Art Website: www.suntory.com/culture-sports/sma/museum/ 21_21 Design Sight Website: www.2121designsight.jp National Arts Centre Website: www.nact.jp
Roppongi Hills Created as a city within a city, this immensely popular complex offers visitors a taste of Tokyo's future. Every inch of Roppongi Hills has been beautifully designed; visitors can wander through peaceful Japanese gardens and beside water walls, then eat and shop in one of more than 200 restaurants and boutiques. Many of Japan's festivals are celebrated here with dancing and performances in the open spaces, while temporary art sculptures come and go amongst the permanent pieces designed by world renowned artists. Those exhausted from shopping can enjoy the 12 screen Virgin cinema showing the latest blockbusters and night visitors shouldn't miss the chance to catch the best view of the city at Tokyo City View. Offering a 360 degree view of the bustling city from 250 metres above the sea, it is an inspiring sight. Head for the information centre on the B1F floor for leaflets or a guided tour of the complex; but visitors can wander the beautifully lit spiralled towers and winding walkways on their own well into the night. Tel: (03) 6406 6000. Website: www.roppongihills.com/en/information/ Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Tokyo Tower Opened in 1958, this 333m (1,092ft) red and white tower is an almost exact replica of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. But standing several metres taller than the original, it also includes an aquarium, numerous gift shops and a waxwork exhibit. The 250m- (820ft-) high observation tower offers views as far as Mt Fuji. 4-2-8 Shinbakoen, Minato-ku Tel: (03) 3433 5111.

Website: www.tokyotower.co.jp Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200. Admission charge. GINZA The wide tree-lined streets of Ginza are synonymous with the Japanese's favourite hobby; sheer, unadulterated shopping. Despite being destroyed in the 1923 earthquake, the area soon sprung back with designer shops, famous department stores and tiny exclusive boutiques to inspire even the most yen conscious' of visitors. But a visit to Ginza doesn't have to be pricey: splash out on an expensive cup of coffee and make it last, this is the ultimate area for people watching, especially on Sundays when various streets are closed to cars to give pedestrians free reign. But beyond the glittering shop fronts there is plenty to see in the area. Heading south from Ginza brings you to Shiodome, a new commercial centre with a number of shining skyscrapers and the famous Tsukiji fish market is a short walk away. Tsukiji Ichiba (Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market) Set your alarm clock early, as visiting the world's biggest fish market before dawn has even broken is a sight not to be missed. Relocated to this area following the 1923 earthquake the sheer scale of the operation is breathtaking. Now open six days a week (the market is closed on Sundays and national holidays) more than 2,200 tons of fish pass through here every day. Daily deals total approximately 15 million (1.8 billion). The main action starts with a tuna auction at a jetlag friendly 0530, where each enormous brightly labelled fish can sell for as much as 1 million yens. As well as fish, a wide range of seafood from all over the world, some you might barely recognise, goes under the hammer. The market is frenetic, fast and furious, and spectators are welcome so long as they remain alert, as speeding forklift trucks and enormous crates don't stop for the tourists. With the early morning business seen to, the action shifts to the outer stalls, and hungry spectators can head to any number of food stalls to eat a traditional breakfast of sushi and sashimi. Nowhere in Tokyo can fish be eaten fresher. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku Tel: (03) 3543 4176. Website: www.tsukiji-market.or.jp Opening hours: Mon-Sat from 0500. Free admission. Hama-Rikyu Garden Those exhausted by the fish market can seek solace at the nearby Hama -Rikyu Garden. Hidden within a beautiful walled moat, this city oasis boasts manicured lawns, an ancient pine tree and three peaceful lakes. Once the hunting ground of a shogun, this

tranquil garden now offers only peace, quiet and a view of Tokyo's famous Rainbow Bridge. 1-1 Hama Rikyu Teien, Chuo-ku Tel: (03) 3541 0200. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission charge. Advertising Museum Tokyo (ADMT) On the B1F-B2F floors of the Caretta Shiodome skyscraper, this small but fascinating permanent museum is dedicated to the wacky world of Japanese advertising. Using the newest technology guests can touch screens to look through adverts both past and present, or study the 100,000 digital images held on a computer database. Caretta Shiodome, 1-8-2, Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku Tel: (03) 6218 2500. Website: www.admt.jp Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1100-1830, Sat 1100-1630. Admission charge. SHINJUKU Shinjuku is a tale of two cities, divided by the numerous train tracks that run directly through it. To the west lies Nishi Shinjuku, a cluster of shining skyscrapers that serve the business and government district. To the east, Higashi Shinjuku, a number of neon lit streets filled with love hotels, hostess bars and pachinko gambling machines. The Golden Gai is east Shinjuku is worth a visit, four streets packed with tiny smoky bars. Although many don't welcome foreigners, many wander past just to have a look. If your money isn't all gone, head for Takashimaya Times Square, where shopping and eating can be done indoors and on a large scale. Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's largest travel hubs but be warned, the station has over 50 exits and can be a nightmare to navigate. Even locals get lost among the miles of underground tunnels that deposit commuters at their destinations. With two million travellers passing through the station every day numbers are always high, but seriously swell in rush hours, creating the famous images of commuters being pushed into packed carriages. Tokyo Tocho (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices) The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices are notable both for their extraordinary architecture and the free observation decks on the 45th floor. Designed by Kenzo Tange, one of Japan's top architects, the monumental twin towers are said to be inspired by Notre Dame, although the imposing granite faade rather brings to mind scenes of Batman's Gotham City. The observation decks (one in each tower and both providing a caf) are reached by high-speed elevator and give spectacular views over

the city. When the Tokyo mist lifts, visitors can see Mount Fuji. 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Tel: (03) 5320 7890. Website: www.metro.tokyo.jp Opening hours: (North deck) Tues-Sun 0930-2230, (South deck) Wed-Mon 0930-1730. Free admission. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden Originally created for the royal family, these are perhaps the most beautiful gardens in Tokyo. The layout is meticulous and breathtaking, with both Japanese and French garden design, an imperial villa and a tropical greenhouse to explore. The place is filled with families on sunny days, as picnicking here is a Japanese tradition, although cafes are also on hand. The garden is particularly beautiful in the spring, when the cherry trees are in full bloom. 11 Naito-cho, Shinjuku-ku Tel: (03) 3350 0151. Website: www.shinjukugyoen.go.jp/ Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1630. Admission charge. SHIBUYA Top teen hangout and neon wonderland, the neighbourhood of Shibuya is always fast and furious. Exiting the station brings you to the most famous meeting spot in the city, a statue of Hachinko the dog. This loyal pup met his master from work every day and even after he died continued with his pilgrimage. So touched were the locals that they cast a statue of him in his honour. More famous to most visitors is the enormous street crossing, which sends hundreds of people across the road every few minutes. The vision many people have of Tokyo, it was also featured in Lost in Translation. While there are some sights to see in Shibuya, the greatest show is people watching, seeing the teens preen and giggle their way through ever changing fashions. Bunkamura The Museum For a glimpse of international art, as well as the most innovative and exciting Tokyo can offer, this is the best gallery in town. But it is much more than just a museum, it is a multi media building offering a complete range of music, cinema and events. 24-1,Dogenzaka 2-chome Shibuya-ku Tel: (03) 3477 9111. Website: www.bunkamura.co.jp

Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900. Admission charge. OMOTESANDO Fashionistas have long been drawn to Omotesando, where the long leafy avenues join the achingly hip area of Aoyama with the teen filled neighbourhood of Harajuku. Endless designer shops built next to one-off boutiques give this shopping mecca a more laid back feel than the classic air of Ginza, and with trends changing every minute it's the place to stay abreast of Tokyo's chameleon fashions. Make the trip on a Sunday to see one of Tokyo's most infamous attractions, hordes of teenagers dressed in outrageous outfits. Part of the still hot trend of cos-play (short for costume play) the city's young use the pastime as a way to shrug off the stress of the week at school or work. As ever trends come and go, French maids are on the wane while Goths and punks in Nazi uniforms are currently the most popular, and all are happy to pose for the cameras. Exhausted shoppers can then join romantic couples and wealthy dog walkers in Yoyogi Park, a rare green space in adjoining Meiji Jingumae. Meiji-jingu (Meiji Shrine) One of Japan's finest examples of Shinto architecture, the atmospheric Meiji Shrine is tucked away in the centre of a dark, cool forest - an unexpected oasis in the centre of the city. Passing through a vast wooden torii gate, the visitor follows the wide gravel path through the forest and into the shrine precincts. Completed in 1920, the shrine honours the memory of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, under whose reign Japan rapidly modernised and was opened to the outside world. On weekends, it is often possible for visitors to see a traditional wedding procession and the precincts are one of the best places to witness the finery and festivities of New Year, Coming of Age Day (15 January) and the children's festival of Shichi-Go-San (weekends around 15 January). During the Autumn Grand Festival (November 1-3), yabusame (horseback archery), budo (martial arts) and aikido are performed and The Gyoen Inner Garden, situated in the shrine grounds, is well worth visiting during June, for the spectacular displays of irises. 1-1 Yoyogi, Kamizono-cho, Shibuya-ku Tel: (03) 3320 5700. Website: www.meijijingu.or.jp Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk (can vary, but usually 0900-1700). Free admission to the shrine, charge for the Gyoen Inner Garden. UENO Housing the largest park in Tokyo, Ueno is where locals head when the cherry blossoms suddenly bloom. With over 1,000 trees it makes a spectacular sight every spring. Home

to several important museums, as well as Ueno Zoo, the park is dotted with historically interesting temples and shrines, including the Tokyo branch' of the Nikko Toshogu Shrine. The Tokyo National Museum houses treasures of Japanese art through the ages, while the National Museum of Western Art and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum host important visiting exhibitions. Nearby Ameyoko offers a very different experience, a bustling market set alongside the tracks from Ueno station. The name roughly translates as Sweet Alley' and the products do not disappoint, every confectionery is on display here, along with clothes, food and spices at low prices.

Ueno Koen (Ueno Park) Taito-ku Tel: (03) 3828 5644. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission to the park and shrines. National Museum of Western Art Tel: (03) 3828 5131. Website: www.nmwa.go.jp Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Fri until 2000). Admission charge. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Tel: (03) 3823 6921. Website: www.tobikan.jp Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission charge. Tokyo National Museum Tel: (03) 3822 1111. Website: www.tnm.jp Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Admission charge. Ueno Zoological Gardens Tel: (03) 3828 5171. Website: www.tokyo-zoo.net/english/ Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1700. Admission charge.
ASAKUSA Perhaps the only place to truly get a sense of old Tokyo, Asakusa houses one of the finest temples in the city. Visitors can get lost in the tiny streets that surround it, easily

drawn into the hundreds of little shops and restaurants that line the nearby roads. If Tokyo's glossy shops and impeccable designer boutiques leave you cold, Nakamise Dori is the perfect antidote. For hundreds of years the roads leading up to the temple's front gate have been filled with stalls selling traditional Japanese wares, and today that tradition continues. From kimono and chopsticks to delicious delicacies, visitors can spend hours browsing the goods for sale. Just a 5-minute stroll away is the Sumida river, the perfect place to hop on a water bus and see the city from a completely different perspective. Sensoji Temple Tokyo's most revered Buddhist temple and a site of pilgrimage and tourism for many centuries, Sensoji Temple was founded in AD628, to enshrine a gold statuette of the Kannon Bodhisattva (the Goddess of Mercy). The temple and its five-storey pagoda are concrete reconstructions built after a 1945 bombing raid but the temple precincts are nevertheless always bustling with worshippers. Smoke from the huge incense burner in front of the temple is said to have healing powers. The impressive Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is famous for its enormous red paper lantern and fearsome guardian statues. This area was the centre of Shitamachi (downtown) during the Edo period and the streets, shops and restaurants surrounding the temple still preserve something of the flavour of old Edo. The great Sanja festival takes place annually in Asakusa on the third weekend in May. Over 100 mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the streets, accompanied by great celebration and huge crowds. 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku Tel: (03) 3842 5566 (Asakusa Cultural and Sightseeing Centre). Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (grounds), 0600-1700 (shrine). Free admission. ODAIBA Built on reclaimed land at the height of Tokyo's bubble era, Odaiba (also known as Rainbow Town) was a glimpse into Tokyo's weird and wonderful future. A mixed development of shops, businesses, tourist attractions and spectacular architecture, this enormous development is well worth a day trip. Reached by a driverless monorail that gives excellent views of the famous Rainbow Bridge, various stops on the island deposit visitors at a selection of bizarre and unique sights. Ride on the world's largest psychedelic big wheel, visit Venus Fort (the world's first department store just for women, designed with a unique shifting interior that mirrors Venice at sunset) and relive Edo era bathing at the Oedo Onsen Monogatari theme park (see Further Distractions). Experience old Hong Kong on the sixth floor of Decks Tokyo Beach', then hire a dog and walk along the man made beach.

Tokyo International Exhibition Centre Commonly called Tokyo Big Sight', this is Japan's largest convention centre. Since opening in April 1996 it has housed hundreds of world famous exhibitions. 3-21-1 Ariake, Koto-ku Tel: (03) 5530 1111. Website: www.bigsight.jp Opening hours: Vary depending on events. Free admission. Decks Tokyo Beach One of the enormous all purpose malls that Tokyo does so well, this time themed to look like a giant ship, beyond which the small beach is filled with courting couples. 1-6-1, Daiba, Minato-ku Tel: (03) 3599 6500. Website: www.odaiba-decks.com/einfo Opening hours: Daily 1100-2300. Free admission. MegaWeb Housing the giant wheel that plays such an important part on Tokyo's new skyline, this development also includes Toyota City Showcase, where petrol heads can both see the newest cars in development and give them a test drive. Aomi 1-chome, Koto-ku Tel: (03) 3599 0808. Website: www.megaweb.gr.jp Opening hours: Daily 1100-2100 (2200 Sat-Sun). Free admission. MARUNOUCHI Home to the spectacular Imperial Palace, this neighbourhood is a political and financial powerhouse. The previously drab Tokyo station has been given a much needed lift with the recent opening of various shiny buildings, including the Marunouchi Oazo, which like Roppongi Hills offer restaurants and high end shopping to the swarms of salarymen that work in the district. But the new stands alongside the ancient, and the Imperial Palace is the pull for tourists who want to see a slice of the Japan of yesteryear. Kyoko Higashi Gyoen (Imperial Palace East Garden) The Imperial Palace East Garden, on the site of the old Edo Castle of the shoguns, is the

only part of the Imperial Palace that is regularly open to the public. Entered through the Otemon Gate, once the main entrance to the castle, it is a pleasant formal garden, surrounded by a section of the original moat and incorporating walls and foundations of the inner castle. Special features include a teahouse, pond and waterfall. Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku Tel: (03) 3213 1111. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Free admission. Yasukuni Shrine & Japanese War-Dead Memorial Museum Perhaps the most controversial of all Tokyo's sites, this shrine houses the souls of those killed in various Japanese wars. The grand shrine displays various artifacts and contains a sumo ring and noh theatre. 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku Tel: (03) 3261 8326. Website: www.yasukuni.or.jp Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Free admission to the shrine, charge for the museum. Edo-Tokyo Hakubutsukan (Edo-Tokyo Museum) Housed in what looks like a colossal white spaceship, the Edo-Tokyo Museum is a wonderful place for visitors to get a feel for Tokyo's history and culture. The permanent exhibition is divided into three distinct areas. The Edo Zone' opens with a replica of Nihombashi Bridge of Japan', taking visitors through Tokyo Zone' post war reconstruction ending at History Zone'. Throughout the museum, engaging displays present the daily life and customs of the city's past. 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku Tel: (03) 3626 9974. Website: www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1730 (Thu and Fri 2000). Admission charge. Shopping The main shopping areas in Tokyo are: stylish Ginza, with its ritzy department stores, designer boutiques and chic galleries; young, trendy Shibuya for clothes, CDs and accessories; the youth mecca' of Harajuku for teenage fashions and kitsch; Akihabara for a vast selection of cut-price electronic goods and computers; and vibrant Shinjuku, known for its camera shops, both new and second hand. Odaiba Mall is situated on the Tokyo Rainbow Town development in Tokyo Bay, also known as Odaiba.

When buying electrical goods, visitors should remember that Japan runs on 100 volts AC, so an adaptor and transformer will be required unless the items have a dual-voltage switch. In addition, many instruction books are available only in Japanese. Laox, 1-15-3Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku, has English-speaking staff on hand to assist. Antique/flea markets are held every Sunday - on the first and fourth Sundays of the month at Harajuku's Togo Shrine, on the second Sunday of the month at Nogi Shrine in Nogizaka and most Sundays at Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku. Starting before dawn, many stalls pack up by early afternoon. These markets are great places for browsing and good buys include old silk kimonos, Japanese dolls, ceramics and lacquer. A smile and a polite request will often yield a discount. For guaranteed low-price Japanese gifts to pack in your suitcase, Oriental Bazaar, 5-913 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, is the perfect Omotesando store. From china to yukatas (a simple Japanese robe worn by both men and women), there is something for every budget. Kitsch is big business here, and if you are after something cute and cuddly, Kiddyland, 6-19-19 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, will keep you happy. For more gift ideas under one roof Tokyu Hands stores and Three Minutes Happiness, 35 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, are both unique Japanese institutions where homeware and quirky Japanese gadgets are piled high and sold cheap. But the best spot for a guaranteed bargain are the 100 shops scattered far and wide throughout Tokyo. With every single item costing 100 visitors never leave empty handed. A visit to the basement food hall of a major department store is a must, if only to marvel at the exquisite presentation of the extraordinary selection of foodstuffs. Bakeries are currently the hottest food shops in the city, with delicious smells wafting from classy patisseries all over the Ginza, Marunouchi and Omotesando areas. At the other end of the commercial spectrum, lively Ameyoko Market, located under the railway tracks just south of Ueno Park, retains echoes of its origins as Tokyo's post-war black market, with raucous vendors, cheap prices and crowds of shoppers. The market is open during standard shopping hours. Shops are mostly open daily 1000-1900/2000, with department stores closed one weekday a week. A consumption tax of 5% is added to the price of all goods. Credit cards are slowly becoming more widely accepted, but most transactions are still done in cash, so ensure you carry enough not to get caught out.

Delhi Mini Guide

Delhi is a daunting city, especially for the first-time visitor. It sprawls uncontrollably over a vast tract of the Jamuna plain, its population is a seething mass of humanity and its poverty and pollution can challenge even the most hardened travellers. As well as being a starting-point for visiting Agra, the home of the world-renowned Taj Mahal, or the cities and forts of Rajasthan, Delhi itself has much to offer. The architectural legacy of the Islamic conquerors is rich and varied, the colonial centre is imposingly impressive; there are some brilliant museums and the city's bazaars and shops offer a bewildering array of goods, from spices and silks to car spare parts. The city's impressive restaurants tempt the visitor with a wide variety of delicious food, ranging from traditional Indian curries to global offerings that include Mediterranean, Italian, Japanese and Thai. Delhi has been the capital of India since independence in 1947, but even before that, the British moved their capital here from Calcutta (now Kolkata) in 1911. For much of its history, Delhi was the centre of power of the various Muslim dynasties that ruled swathes of the subcontinent from the 12th century. Modern Delhi is really two cities: Old Delhi, packed into a tangle of narrow, crowded streets beneath the Red Fort's imposing walls, and New Delhi, which is its polar opposite, complete with the grandiose imperial citadel, broad, leafy boulevards and wellspaced bungalows, as laid out by Lutyens and Baker in the 1920s. Old Delhi, built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, is only the latest of eight known cities that have existed in this location since the Muslims first arrived. Around New Delhi, particularly in the area known as Transjamuna, across the river from the Old City, are the suburbs and slums that have sprung up to accommodate a population that has increased, more by migration than by natural increment, by 46% between 1991 and 2001 (latest census figure available). This population explosion has brought greater poverty and more wretched degradation in its wake - an estimated 45% of Delhi's inhabitants live in slum accommodation and there are beggars on almost every street corner. Throughout India, literacy rates are improving sharply, but in Delhi, illiteracy continues, marginally, to grow (the 2001 census indicates a 6.5% increase in literacy in Delhi since 1991, but there has reportedly been a slower growth rate since 2001). Despite its long history, Delhi as a capital city is in fact very young. At partition in 1947, Delhi was radically and permanently changed, more or less overnight. With the creation

of a predominately Hindu India and a Muslim Pakistan, there was a mass migration of peoples in both directions and sectarian bloodletting on a horrifying scale. Having been largely Muslim, before 1947, at partition Delhi became a Hindu and Sikh majority city. At the same time, the population virtually doubled, despite the mass exodus of Muslims. Summer in Delhi is best avoided. From mid April, the temperature rises inexorably. For much of May, June and July the thermometer is stuck at around 45C (113F), before the monsoon brings some relief. The best time to visit is November to March. City Statistics

Location: National Capital Territory of Delhi, North India. Dialling code: 91. Population: 14.1 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 5.5. Electricity: 230 volts AC, 50Hz; round two or three-pin plugs are used. Average January temperatures: 21C (70F). Average July temperatures: 35C (95F). Annual rainfall: 714mm (27.9 inches). Monsoon season is around July-mid September.
Sightseeing
The best-known sights are the two buildings that dominate Old Delhi, the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. A stroll through the chaotic, raucous, smelly alleyways of the Old City (also known as Shahjahanabad, after the 17th-century Mughal emperor who built it) is an unforgettable experience. The people-packed bazaars of Chandni Chowk are a riot of colourful exoticism and frenetic activity. The Old City is decaying rapidly but it is still possible to glimpse a mosque here or the courtyard of a proud old townhouse there, hidden behind a shop front. To the south of Old Delhi and in complete contrast to it, is Rajpath and the buildings on Raisina Hill (Rashtrapati Bhavan and the Secretariat) which form the centrepiece of British New Delhi. After the clamour of the Old City, the calm elegance and baroque vistas of this most splendidly laid-out scheme is a welcome relief. Between Old Delhi and Rajpath is Connaught Place, the arcaded bull's eye of New Delhi, with shops, banks, bars, restaurants, hotels and oodles of pesky touts.

Heading south once more, through the leafy enclaves of New Delhi (which have an allure all of their own, as they are spacious, shady and lusciously green), the visitor will find the bulk of the ancient monuments of medieval Delhi. Humayun's Tomb, the Lodhi Gardens and various other sites, are readily accessible from the centre of the city. The Qutb Minar complex, the vast and formidable Tughluqabad and the remains at Haus Khaz are located deeper in the southern suburbs. Most sights have a different admission fee for Indians and foreigners and may also impose camera/video charges. Admission fees for foreigners are sometimes displayed in US Dollars but are payable in the Rupee equivalent. The easiest way to travel from site to site is by taxi or auto-rickshaw. Sightseeing in Delhi can be exhausting - negotiating the urban sprawl and traffic is a long-drawn-out and tiring business, particularly in the heat, making it wise not to squeeze too much into a day. Tourist Information Indiatourism Delhi (Government of India Tourist Office) 88 Janpath Tel: (011) 2332 0008. Website: www.incredibleindia.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1400. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Delhi. Key Attractions Lal Qila (Red Fort) The Red Fort's massive curtain wall and battlements dominate the skyline of Old Delhi. Inside the bastions (built, like the nearby Jama Masjid, by Shah Jahan) are an array of exquisite 17th-century Mughal buildings, which provided the living quarters for the emperor, his courtiers and family. The flawless balance and proportion of these buildings, as well as the intricate decoration, is wonderful to behold and in complete contrast to the military might of the fort itself. Sadly, the water conduits that would once have cooled the dwellings and gardens are now dry. The Lahore Gate, on the west side of the fort, was a potent symbol in the fight for independence and is still regarded as a shrine of the Republic. Entrance from Lahore Gate Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1800.

Admission charge. Jama Masjid Jama Masjid is India's largest mosque and is one of the masterpieces of the Mughal's greatest builder, Shah Jahan. A huge courtyard, bounded by an arcade and pierced with three gates, lies in front of the prayer hall, which achieves serenity and peace from the perfect harmony of its arches, domes and spaces. The courtyard, which can accommodate 25,000 worshippers, is dominated by two red-and-white-striped sandstone minarets, 70m (230ft) tall. The energetic visitors who climb the 122 narrow steps to the top will be rewarded with a magnificent view of Delhi. Dress conservatively; women should bring a scarf to cover the head. Matya Mahal, Bho Jala Tel: (011) 2326 8344. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk; closed during prayer times. Free admission for the mosque; there is a charge for the minaret. Qutb Minar The Qutb Minar is an immense tower, started at the end of the 12th century, to commemorate the Muslim conquest of Delhi. Standing 72.5m (238ft) tall, it is built of fluted red sandstone and decorated with calligraphy representing verses from the Koran. The top two levels are faced in white marble. The Minar rises above a site that is home to the oldest extant Islamic monuments in India. There is the Ala-i-Darwaza, complete with horseshoe-shaped arches, lotus-leaf squinches and elaborate geometric patterns. Next to that, stands the Quwwat-ul-Islam, the first mosque to be built in India. So anxious were the new rulers of Delhi to erect a mosque, they shamelessly pilfered 27 Hindu and Jain temples for building materials. Many of the pillars that surround the courtyard are carved with Hindu iconography, which is curiously at odds with the Islamic calligraphy of the prayer screens. Incongruously, in the centre of the mosque, stands the fourth-century Iron Pillar, bearing inscriptions from the Gupta period. Beyond the mosque is the intricately carved Iltutmish's Tomb. Qutb Minar complex Tel: (011) 2664 3856.Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission charge. Rashtrapati Bhavan and Rajpath Rajpath runs between the Secretariat Buildings and India Arch, the war memorial designed by Lutyens, in 1921. Rajpath is a formal conception, lined with trees, fountains and pools, intended by its architects, Lutyens and Baker, as the epicentre of British India. The Secretariat Buildings combine monumental classical and oriental detail and,

while not especially exquisite, are certainly an imposing statement of colonial power. Rashtrapati Bhavan is an immense palace, supposedly larger than Versailles, which was built as the residence of the Viceroy and is now the official home of the President of India. Every Saturday morning guards parade before the iron grille gates. While the apartments are private, the gardens are open to the public for a few days every year in February/March (contact the tourist office for exact dates, which vary from year to year). Rajpath Website: www.presidentofindia.nic.in Opening hours: By appointment; gardens open for several days in Feb/Mar. Free admission. National Museum It takes a good few hours to get a decent overview of Indian culture at the National Museum, which is filled with exhibits covering over 5,000 years of history. Highlights include excavations from Indus Valley civilisation sites, carved pillars and statues from various Indian empires, Central Asian antiquities, sandstone figures from Pallava temples, stone and bronze Buddhist statues, Tibetan manuscripts, Naga models and masks, a gallery of around 300 musical instruments, old coins, and Mughal clothing, tapestries, ornaments and weapons. The admission ticket includes an informative audioguide in English, Japanese, Hindi, German or French. Janpath Tel: (011) 2301 9272. Website: www.nationalmuseumindia.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Chandni Chowk The bazaars that surround Chandni Chowk, in Old Delhi, offer a colourful, heaving and pungent slice of Delhi life, with shops and stalls displaying a spectacular array of goods, from fish and poultry to second-hand household products, gemstones and gold, chunky costume jewellery, tinsel garlands, turbans, textiles and even spare car parts. The covered Gadodial Market is the wholesale spice market with an incredible display of aniseed, turmeric, pomegranate, dried mangoes, ginger, saffron, reetha nuts, lotus seeds, pickles, sugars and chutneys. Chawri Bazaar is packed with shops specialising in wholesale paper ware as well as copper and brass figurines such as Buddha, Vishnu and Krishna. Chandni Chowk

Website: www.chandnichowk.com Opening hours: Daily, approximately 1000-1800; most shops are closed on Sunday. Free admission. Humayun's Tomb Often regarded merely as a forerunner of the Taj Mahal, Humayun's Tomb is, in its own right, a stunning example of the Mughal architectural style, combining dome, mausoleum and plinth in perfect proportion. The Tomb is set in a square garden designed along Persian lines, shaded and geometric, crisscrossed with waterways and paths. In the grounds, there are some other monuments, including the Tomb of Isa Khan. The gardens, in particular the watercourses and pools, have recently been magnificently restored. Lodhi Road and Mathura Road Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Admission charge. Baha'i Temple Otherwise known as the Lotus Temple, the modern Baha'i Temple has often been compared to architectural feats like the Sydney Opera House. Giant white petals of marble open out from nine pools and walkways in the shape of an unfolding lotus, symbolising the nine spiritual paths of the Baha'i faith. The crouched yet upright stance and upturned, opening petals hint at the human form in ecstatic prayer. The temple is approached through an attractive formal garden. Inside, the central hall rises to a height of over 30m (98ft), without the visible support of any columns. Photography is not permitted inside the temple and visitors are also requested to refrain from talking. Kalkaji Hill Tel: (011) 2644 4029. Website: www.bahaindia.org/temple Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1730 (Oct-Mar); 0900-1900 (Apr-Sep). Free admission. Crafts Museum The wonderfully calm Crafts Museum has a series of fascinating galleries showcasing an array of crafts from around the country including vibrant tribal masks, artistic terracotta pieces and elaborate wood carvings. The outdoor section has been designed to replicate a traditional Indian village and has an area where artisans from around the country can sell their handicrafts direct to visitors. The mellow ambience of this museum makes it an incredibly rejuvenating escape from the rat race.

Pragati Maidan, Bhairon Marg Tel: (011) 2337 1641. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Free admission. Purana Qila Humayun's 16th-century Delhi had at its centre the fortress of Purana Qila, which reputedly stands on the site of Indraprastha, the city of the Pandavas in the Mahabharata. Of the buildings that survive today, the Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid, a successful fusion of the Islamic and Hindu styles, was constructed by Sher Shah in 1541. The Sher Mandal is an octagonal observatory and library. The north gate, Talaqi-Darwaza, has been partially rebuilt and gives an impression of how formidable the fortifications would have been in their heyday. The chattri surmounting the west (entrance) gate commands a fine view of New Delhi. There is a small museum just inside the south gate. Mathura Road Tel: (011) 2435 3178. Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk (fortress); daily 0800-1830 (museum). Admission charge. National Gallery of Modern Art The National Gallery of Modern Art contains a large collection of contemporary Indian artwork. There are also examples of painters of the Bengali Renaissance, which flourished from the 19th century, and of the esteemed poet and artist, Rabindranath Tagore (1861-1941). The works of modern artists, such as Francis Newton Souza (19242002) and Amrita Sher-Gil (1913-1941), are also on display. The museum has embarked on an ambitious scheme of building which, when complete, will provide greatly increased gallery space for the ever-growing collection. The museum is in Jaipur House, formerly the grand Delhi residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Jaipur House, India Gate Tel: (011) 2338 2835. Website: www.ngmaindia.gov.in Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Akshardham Temple The colossal Akshardham Temple, which opened in 2005, is rather inconveniently located on the city fringes but is well worth the trip - set aside at least a couple of hours. The stunning sandstone and marble Hindu temple incorporates an attractive mix of traditional Indian design styles including Mughal and Orissan. The soaring domes and

beautifully carved pillars and deities are one of the temple's star attractions. National Highway 24 Tel: (011) 2201 6688. Website: www.akshardham.com Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1800. Free admission. Tughluqabad The immense and brutal fortifications of Tughluqabad are an impressive monument to the militarism of the Tughluqs, an antidote to any idea that the Delhi Sultans were merely effete builders of mosques and palaces. Nowadays, the only living things that visitors are likely to see at the vast, barren, sun-scorched site are goats, donkeys and the occasional archaeologist, although in the 14th century, the citadel, the third city of Delhi, was the Sultan's capital. Below the walls is the forbidding tomb of Ghiyas-ud-din Tughluq, the builder of Tughluqabad. It is approached from a causeway that crosses a lake, now dry. From the high point of the citadel there is a sweeping panorama of southern Delhi. Tughluqabad Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730. Admission charge. Shopping Gemstones, carpets, antique furniture, handicrafts, fabrics, spices...the emporiums of Delhi are filled with a treasure trove of goods from the far corners of the Indian subcontinent. The intrepid will head for the rambunctious chowks and alleyways of Old Delhi, while the more cautious will stick to the well-trodden round of Connaught Place and the orderly state government handicrafts emporiums on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, with perhaps an excursion in the direction of Hauz Khas Village, Sunder Nagar Market, and the shopping enclaves of South Extension and Chanakyapuri's Santushti. The most central of the government-run handicraft centres is the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, on Janpath, which is well stocked with a wide assortment of handicrafts as well as textiles and jewellery. On Baba Kharak Singh Marg, there is a long line of fantastic state emporiums, from Himachal Pradesh to Tamil Nadu, which stock quality items at fixed prices. Give yourself a few hours to peruse the many shops here. Located in south Delhi, Hauz Khas Village has a centralised collection of furniture and art shops, along with a hip selection of boutiques selling designer clothes in both Indian and Western styles.

There is no shortage of shops selling carpets in Delhi but the visitor would be well advised to exercise caution, by sticking to the reputable, fixed-price, non-commission establishments. It is advisable to shop around before making a purchase as quality and prices can vary dramatically. Delhi's markets come crammed with goods, people and aromas. The colourful bazaars of Chandni Chowk (see Key Attractions) are piled high with everything from nuts and spices to silks and essential oils, and are worth visiting for the spectacle alone. The wholesale Spice Market, on Khari Baoli, in the Old City, is where, for centuries, the culinary traditions of North Asia, China, Persia and the Middle East have worked their influence on local cuisine. Sunder Nagar Market, off Mathura Road, is open Monday to Saturday and is a good place to search for antiques and jewellery, as well as boasting a tremendous variety of other knick-knacks and artifacts spilling out of the shops. This market also has two very good tea shops. One of Delhi's most prestigious markets, and a regular haunt of the city's ex-pats, is Khan Market, just south of India Gate, open Monday to Saturday. There are a number of excellent bookshops here as well as homeware and fashion shops. Except in the government-run shops, haggling is usually the order of the day - it is the only way for shoppers to ensure they do not pay too far over the odds. Most shops tend to open around 1000 and close between 1800 and 1900. Some shops close on Sunday while others remain open daily. There is no VAT in India at present.

Mumbai (Bombay) Mini Guide

Mumbai is a city of extreme contrasts, of great prosperity and abject poverty, of 21stcentury technology and medieval squalor, epitomised by the destitute and crippled lying in rows beneath bright, electronic advertisements for dotcom companies. It boasts the finest collection of Victorian buildings anywhere in Asia and a myriad of temples and mosques. Yet 55% of its population live in slums - the highest percentage for any large Indian city. Mumbai is also congested with people (it has a population of over 16 million, which is rising relentlessly), its streets are clogged with traffic, its air is foully polluted by the barely controlled emissions of its factories and vehicles, and many of its buildings are slowly crumbling. However, the city still has much to offer. Mumbai is a colourful (the saris, the bazaars, the Indian sunlight), vibrant, energetic and friendly city, with a varied and fascinating history and many reasons to face the future with confidence.

Once Bombay (the city was renamed after the Hindu goddess Mumbadevi in 1995, although both names are still widely used), Mumbai juts out southwest from the Indian subcontinent into the Arabian Sea. It has a hot, humid climate, which is only partly relieved by the annual arrival of the monsoon, between June and September. Originally, Mumbai was a group of seven separate islands. Gradually the islands merged into a single peninsula as land was reclaimed from the sea, although some of the former islands still lend their names to parts of the modern city - Colaba, for example. Until the arrival of the Portuguese at Bombay in 1509 (they coined the original name, which is a corruption of the Portuguese for good bay') the islands were home to the Koli fishermen and to a community of Buddhist monks. The Portuguese established a trading base and dominated the region for more than a century. In 1661, the Portuguese colony passed to Britain, as part of the marriage settlement between Charles II and Catherine of Braganza. From then until 1858, Bombay was governed by the East India Company, whose raison d'tre was trade and profit. In 1858, following the suppression of the Indian Mutiny, control of British India passed from the East India Company to the Crown, where it remained until independence in August 1947. It was during this 90-year phase that the modern city took shape. The demolition of the old Bombay fort, in the 1860s, was the precursor to the redevelopment of the British city, or what is now the centre of the city - the area referred to as Fort'. Similarly, the extensive 1920s and 30s land reclamation along Back Bay provided the space for the development of the Marine Drive area of the city, now one of the most important parts of Mumbai. From its earliest days, Mumbai was a trading place and today is the financial centre of India, home to the country's largest stock exchange and the heart of its banking industry. It handles nearly a third of India's foreign trade and is host to a large number of foreign multinationals. It is an important centre of the gem trade and its film industry (Bollywood) is a national institution. For many visitors, the city is only a point of arrival, a springboard for the south or the architectural glories of the north. But to pass through Mumbai without tarrying a while is to miss one of the world's great cities, as worthwhile and idiosyncratic as any on earth. City Statistics

Location: Maharashtra State, India. Dialling code: 91. Population: 16.4 million (Greater Mumbai).

Time zone: GMT + 5.5. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 24.5C (76F). Average July temperatures: 28.5C (83F). Annual rainfall: 2,160mm (85 inches) June-September.

Sightseeing
Mumbai's main areas of interest are located on the more southerly parts of the peninsula, where the European settlers established their enclave and where the various local communities took root. The centre of Imperial Bombay is the area known as Fort, after the fortifications that protected the British settlement. Starting in the 1860s, the governors of Bombay embarked on an ambitious programme of development, a process that continued under official and private patronage well into the 20th century. As a result, Mumbai boasts a stunning array of High Victorian buildings in a fascinating range of architectural styles, which reflect the then prevailing British passion for the gothic as well as the influence of Indian and Saracenic styles. The result is a breathtaking affirmation of the wealth, panache and confidence of Imperial Bombay. There are numerous examples for the visitor to look at, but Mumbai University, Standard Chartered Bank Building and Municipal Corporation Building give a flavour of what can be expected. At the same time as the sahibs were building their modern imperial monuments in the Fort, the local communities were expanding rapidly to the north. This part of the city is every bit as characteristic of the modern city as the Fort is - some would say more so. Its narrow, twisting streets and raucous bazaars (all noise, activity and thronging with people) are a complete contrast to the spacious, tree-lined boulevards of the more southerly areas. Superimposed on these two distinctly different parts of Mumbai is the modern city: the 1930s developments along Marine Drive and on Cumbala Hill, the modern office blocks to the west of the Maidans and the tower blocks that line the southern end of Back Bay. Further north, up the peninsula, are the suburbs of Mumbai and it is here that the worst of the shanty towns and slums are located. These are, sadly, as much part of modern Mumbai as the more glamorous areas to the south. The poverty, squalor and degradation are truly shocking. Mumbai was a city built on toleration (prosperity was considered more important than religious homogeneity) and this is reflected in the number and range of places of

worship that can be found in the city. The Anglican cathedral, Catholic church and Scottish kirk in Mumbai rub shoulders with countless Hindu temples, many mosques and other Parsee and Buddhist temples. Together, they form a rich and varied heritage. Most attractions are fairly central and can be reached on foot, otherwise visitors tend to take taxis, as they are relatively cheap and infinitely more convenient than public transport. Tourist Information Indiatourism Mumbai

123 Mararishi Karve Road, Churchgate Tel: (022) 2207 4333/4 or 2203 3144/5. Website: www.incredibleindia.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1400. Passes
There are currently no tourist passes available in Mumbai. Key Attractions Gateway of India Built by the British to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary's visit to India in 1911, the Gateway of India stands as a monument to the importance of Mumbai as a port when the steamship was king. Designed by George Wittet, it replaced the temporary structure that the architect had erected for the Imperial visit itself and was completed in 1917. The archway is built from honey-coloured basalt, in a style derived from Gujarati architecture of the 16th century. For many in the age of steam, the Gateway and the nearby Taj Hotel were their first and their last sights of India. Nowadays, it attracts a colourful crowd of tourists, hawkers and beggars. Apollo Bunder seafront. Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) (formerly Victoria Terminus) Now the headquarters of the Central Railway, this magnificent terminus building, commonly known as CST, was completed in 1888, for the Great Indian Peninsular Railway, to designs by the architect FW Stevens. It is one of the worlds grandest railway stations, quite the equal of New Yorks Grand Central Station or Londons St Pancras station. Built in the Italian Gothic style, it looks more like a cathedral than a railway station, an impression strengthened by the tall dome crowned with a statue

representing Progress. In the public parts of the station, the Victorian arches soar splendidly above the hurrying throng, but its real glory is the main staircase. Sadly, this is in a part of the building to which the public is generally denied access, although a polite request to the stationmaster on the main concourse may result in permission being granted to visit the restricted areas. It is certainly worth the effort. Dr D Navroji Road, Fort Tel: (022) 2265 6565. Opening hours: Daily early morning to late evening. Free admission. St Thomass Cathedral St Thomass is the Anglican cathedral of Mumbai and, having been founded in 1676, bears witness to almost the entire history of the British in Bombay. The main structure was not completed, due to lack of funds, until 1718. The tower and clock were added in 1838, while the chancel was built in 1863. The main interest for the visitor is in the splendid array of marble monuments that line the aisles of the cathedral, which give an immediate, anecdotal flavour of life and death in British Bombay. Many of them catch the eye but look out for the memorial to Captain George Hardinge RN. Hardinge, in naval uniform, is being borne away on a huge seashell pulled by two fiery seahorses, while below is a relief of the action in which he was killed. The cathedral has recently been splendidly restored. 3 Veer Nariman, Fort Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800. Free admission; donations welcome. Town Hall An impressive neo-classical structure overlooking Horniman Circle, the Town Hall was built between 1821 and 1833, to designs by Colonel Thomas Cowper. It originally stood on Bombay Green, which was the centre of the Fort area, and is one of the few remnants (along with the Mint Building) of pre-Victorian Bombay. It is now used as a public library. Horniman Circle, Fort Tel: (022) 2266 0956. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1030-1815. Free admission. Jehangir Art Gallery The premier exhibition space in Mumbai for contemporary Indian art, the Jehangir Art

Gallery was founded by Sir Cowasji Jehangir, in memory of his son. It boasts two large galleries, which frequently stage changing exhibitions. Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort Tel: (022) 2204 8212. Opening hours: Daily 1100-1900. Free admission; some exhibitions may charge. Shrine of Haji Ali Commemorating a Muslim saint who died while on pilgrimage to Mecca, the Shrine of Haji Ali rises out of the sea off Mumbai, sparkling in the bright sunshine like an priceless jewel. The shrine, which is topped by an elegant tower, is connected to the mainland by a causeway (thronging with beggars) and is only accessible at low tide. Off Lala Lajpa Trai Murg Opening hours: Daily 0500-2200, subject to tides. Free admission. Balbulnath Temple Perched on the northeastern end of Malabar Hill, overlooking Chowpatty Beach, a visit to Balbulnath Temple necessitates a steep climb. Nevertheless the effort is amply rewarded by the elaborate terrace and the splendid carving, picked out in blue, which adorns the pillared hall. Near junction of Walkeshwar and Marine Drive Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk. Free admission; donations welcome. Mumbadevi Temple The shady and ornate first-floor balcony overlooking the noisy, chaotic square in the middle of the Bhuleshwar Market is part of the Mumbadevi Temple. The interior of the temple (in complete contrast to the bustle outside) is serenely calm, cool and dark. The temple is on three floors set around a central atrium that ascends to a dome. The carving that decorates the interior is ornate but never surrenders to fussiness. Next door, two other Hindu temples are similarly worth visiting. Bhuleshwar Market Opening hours: Daily 0630-2130. Free admission; donations welcome. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum)

Set in beautiful lush gardens, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya is one of the landmarks of south Bombay. The museum is housed in a grand and somewhat exotic building, designed by George Wittet in 1909, in the Indo-Saracenic style. The collections include ancient and medieval sculptures and artefacts, Indian decorative arts and a large number of beautiful miniatures. There is also a natural history section which contains a large number of stuffed animals and fish. The admission fee includes an audio tour. 159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort Tel: (022) 2284 4484. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1015-1800. Admission charge; concessions available. Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum (formerly Victoria and Albert Museum) Housed in a purpose-built 19th-century Palladian villa, the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum collections are of mixed interest and quality and are generally badly displayed and poorly lit. There are some fine carvings in both wood and ivory, some interesting antique Indian weapons and a fascinating display of photographs of old Bombay. There are delightful and extensive formal gardens surrounding the villa, which also accommodate a zoo. Other highlights of the gardens are the elaborate Italian Renaissance-style gateway and the equestrian statue of Edward VII as Prince of Wales. Dr B Ambedkar Road, Byculla Tel: (022) 372 5799. Opening hours: Daily 1030-1630, closed Wed. Admission charge. Horniman Circle Laid out in 1869, on the site of the old Bombay Green and originally called Elphinstone Circle, Horniman Circle is the epicentre of the Fort area. The Circle consists of James Scotts elegantly curved, arcade terraces with a garden in the middle. It was the first significant piece of the city's redevelopment, which began under the governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. The gardens in the middle of the Circle, which are open to the public, are a lush and shady retreat from the glare and bustle of the streets, a good place to break a mornings sightseeing. Following independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, after an English journalist, Benjamin Horniman, who was a leading advocate of Indian self-determination. Horniman Circle, Fort Opening hours: Sun-Fri 1000-2030, Sat 1600-2030.

Free admission. Shopping Mumbai is a shopper's paradise. The shops and bazaars offer a truly amazing diversity of goods, as well as being worth a visit in their own right. Mumbai sells everything from expensive European antiques to local spices by way of electrical goods and silks. In particular, it is the centre of the Indian clothing trade and caters for all tastes and budgets. Fashion Street', on M Gandhi Road between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, is a row of market stalls where some very good bargains can be found. At the other end of the spectrum, Mumbai is also home to a number of tailors who will make clothes quickly at a reasonable cost. For the more adventurous shopper, there is a large amount of Indian furniture for sale in Mumbai, both at dealers and in the bazaars. Caveat emptor is very much the rule and the age or worth of purchases cannot be guaranteed; visitors should trust to luck and their eye, haggle fiercely and hope to be rewarded with an exceptional bargain. Likewise, Mumbai is a major centre of the diamond trade and for those with strong nerves and long pockets, who know what they are doing, it is possible to pick great bargains. For inexpensive yet attractive wooden and other presents, the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Shivaji Marg, between Apollo Bunder and Regal, is open Monday to Saturday 1000-1900. For those who like to shop in comfort, the Oberoi and Taj Hotels both boast airconditioned shopping malls with an interesting range of boutiques. No trip to Mumbai is complete, however, without a visit to the bazaars: Chor Bazaar, Mutton Street, near Sir JJ Road, for bric-a-brac, furniture and junk, Zaveri Bazaar, off Abdul Rahman Street, for jewellery, Dhaboo Street Bazaar, Dhaboo Street, for leather goods and Crawford Market, Dr D Navroji Road/Carnac Road, for fruit and vegetables. Markets are generally open from 0900-1900. In most shops and bazaars, bargaining is the norm, particularly for more expensive items. Generally, shops do not open until 1000 or 1030 but tend to remain open until about 1900.

Manila Mini Guide In the days of the Spanish Empire, Manila was Spain's seat of power in Asia and the Pacific. Today, the city and its people are a mixture of the East and West. A series of invasions by Spain, America and Japan and a history of hardships made the Filipinos into resilient, good-humoured and resourceful people. The friendliness of Filipinos translates to good customer service in hotels, businesses and malls. Most residents speak English, so navigating the city is not a big problem. These, plus the added purchasing value of the foreign exchange rate, make Manila a great place for guests looking for luxury, pampering and bargains. Manila' really refers to two places: the City of Manila, founded by Spanish conquerors in 1571 by the side of Manila Bay, and the larger Metropolitan Manila (abbreviated to Metro Manila), which encompasses the City of Manila and 17 other cities. Filipinos use Manila' to mean Metro Manila, while the term Manileo is reserved exclusively for the City of Manila's residents. Manila's history is intertwined with its geographic location. Manila Bay was an ideal port for Spanish ships bearing gold, spices, silk and ceramics (treasure hunters still seek sunken Manila galleons today). Unfortunately for Manileos, this also attracted a string of invaders. Spain first conquered Manila in 1571. For 300 years, Spain successfully repelled a series of invasion attempts by the Chinese, Dutch and the British. A Filipino revolutionary force triumphed over the Spanish in 1896. But this was shortlived as the USA took over Manila in 1898. The city finally got its independence after WWII. The city is mostly warm and humid, with an average temperature of 27C (81F). It gets cooler in the months of December to February (down to around 21C/70F), and warmer to hot during March to May (up to around 34C/93F). The rainy season used to be in June to September, but this has shifted towards September to October, with typhoons often arriving during these months.

City Statistics Location: National Capital Region, Luzon Island (southwest), Philippines.
Dialling code: 63. Population: 11 million.

Time zone: GMT + 8. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 60Hz. 110 volts is available in most hotels. Flat and round two- and three-pin plugs are in use. Average January temperatures: 25C (77F). Average July temperatures: 28C (82.5F). Annual rainfall: 2,030mm (80 inches).
Sightseeing Many faces to satisfy different tastes. History lovers will enjoy the rich heritage of the old Manila city. The Spanish influence is still evident in the old quarters of the city and in local traditions. Most Filipinos are Catholic and Manila has numerous old churches, some dating back 300 years. An exhibit at the National Museum displays sunken treasure from one of the Manila galleons dating back 1600, discovered by divers only in 1991. Food lovers can feast on the diversity of local cuisine, which incorporates the good stuff from Spanish, Indian and Chinese cooking. For the politically inclined, Metro Manila is the site of the EDSA Revolution, where citizens marched on the streets, notably in EDSA, to end the reign of dictator Ferdinand Marcos and his well-shod wife, Imelda. People Power Revolution, as it was later called around the world, inspired several other non-violent marches in Nicaragua, Berlin and the former Soviet Union. Shopaholics will love the malls easily accessible within the metropolis. Recommended destinations in City of Manila are Intramuros and Fort Santiago (the old Spanish settlement), Santa Cruz (notably Chinatown) and Malate (for its bars), the National Museum and the Cultural Centre of the Philippines. For a quick, visual brush-up on Philippine history, the dioramas at the Ayala Museum are highly recommended. Tourist Information Philippine Tourism Authority (DOT) Fifth Floor, DOT Building TM Kalaw Street Teodoro Valencia Circle Tel: (02) 524 2502. Website: www.tourism.gov.ph Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800.

Key Attractions
Rizal Park A substantial open green area that showcases Manila at play, 58-hectare (143acre) Rizal Park is one of the largest parks in South-East Asia. It is also known as Luneta, after the area it replaced. Its local significance can be gauged by the fact that it is named after Dr Jos Rizal, the great Philippine anti-colonial fighter and thinker. He is memorialised in the Diorama of the Martyrdom of Dr Jos Rizal, which becomes a son et lumire exhibit after sunset, and his remains were interred in the Rizal Monument in 1912. The many ornamental gardens include a re-creation of the entire Philippines archipelago in the eastern ponds. There is also a Japanese Garden, a Chinese Garden, an Orchidarium, a chess plaza and a skating rink. The museums and public buildings within its precincts include the Museum of the Pilipino People (see below). In the morning, residents assemble to practise tai chi, Philippine stick-fighting or sundry forms of martial arts, while on most Sundays, there is a free Concert at the Park' in an open-air auditorium. Taft Avenue to Manila Bay Free admission. Intramuros The original city, founded in 1571 by the Spanish, Intramuros is located on the southern bank of the Pasig River. Substantial sections of the encircling wall, which was begun in 1590, remain, including a number of decorated gates. In fact a poorly defensible site, Intramuros was the location of most major conflicts and invasions to befall the pre-independence Philippines, culminating in the devastating Battle for Manila between the Japanese and Americans in 1945, in which over 100,000 locals died. The surviving walls have been restored and many attractive historic buildings still remain within their precincts, while a walk beneath their ramparts gives a colonial experience hard to match in modern Asia. Free admission. Fort Santiago One of the oldest and most dramatic colonial buildings in the Philippines, Fort Santiago was built to guard the entrance to the Pasig River and dates back, in its oldest sections, to 1571. Its most famous prisoner was the national hero, Jos Rizal, who spent his last days here before his death at the hands of the Spanish in 1896. More recent memories of tyranny include the legacy of wartime Japanese occupation, when Philippine freedom fighters suffered and died here. In another cell block, American POWs were left to be drowned by the rising tide this was one of the rumoured resting places for the legendary wartime trove of Yamashita's Gold and the victims' last resting place has been much disturbed by treasure seekers. The Japanese used Fort Santiago as their final redoubt against American forces and the fort was correspondingly damaged. It has been rebuilt

as a park, with its own resident theatre company. At its heart is the Rizal Shrine, which contains very crypto-Catholic relics of the hero - one of his vertebrae, the first draft of his novel Noli Me Tangere or Touch Me Not (1887) and the original of his death poem. Entrance at end of General Luna Street, Intramuros Tel: (02) 527 2889. Admission charge. San Agustin Church and Museum One of the few buildings in Intramuros to survive the carnage of the Japanese invasion substantially intact, and Manila's oldest stone church, San Agustin Church was completed in 1606. Its present interior murals post date earthquakes in 1863 and 1889, which brought down one of its towers. The adjoining Augustinian monastery houses the San Agustin Museum, which contains much colonial religious art, including altarpieces and screens salvaged whole from other houses of worship in 1945. General Luna Street, Intramuros Tel: (02) 527 4061. Admission charge. National Museum of the Philippines Founded in 1901 as the Insular Museum of Ethnology, Natural History and Commerce, the National Museum of the Philippines houses the official national baseline collections in the sciences and humanities, with particular reference to the environment and history of the Philippines. Its holdings are divided into the National Museum itself, housed in the Old Congress Building of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Filipino People (tel: (02) 527 0213). The National Museum has many archaeological exhibits of the Philippines' prehistory, including the skull of Tabon Man', the oldest human remains in the archipelago. The Museum of the Filipino People collection includes the preserved timbers and treasures of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sank in Philippine waters after a collision in 1600. Also visit the Juan Luna collection of paintings. Luna was a Filipino master painter known for Spoliarium, an awe-inspiring painting depicting dead Roman gladiators being dragged away after the famed games. Luna won several major awards in his time, beating painters from all over the world. Padre Burgos Street, Rizal Park Tel: (02) 527 1215. Website: http://nmuseum.tripod.com Free admission to the National Museum; admission charge for the Museum of the

Filipino People. Malacaang Palace and Museum Locally renowned as a historic building, the palace was formerly the summer residence of the Spanish governor general and is now the seat of government and the official residence of the head of state. Its museum houses mementoes of each successive president of the Philippines. Imelda Marcos' famous shoe collection was once part of the holdings, although they have now been removed to leave more worthy exhibits. Gate Six, JP Laurel Street, San Miguel Tel: (02) 733 3721. Admission charge. Chinese Cemetery Founded in the 1850s, the Chinese Cemetery was designated as the resting place for the Chinese citizens who were denied burial in Catholic cemeteries. A memorial garden considerably more opulent and bizarre than most of its ilk elsewhere in Asia, Manila's Chinese Cemetery houses very complete sets of grave goods - tombs outfitted with air conditioning, plumbing, flushing toilets, chandeliers and all other modern conveniences for the well-off corpse. Entire streets are laid out to honour the dead and the status of their surviving relatives. Guided tours around some of the more baroque excesses are available courtesy of the guards. South Gate on Aurora Avenue, Blumentritt Free admission. Ayala Museum Best known for its dioramas (3D miniatures) depicting vital points in Philippine history, Ayala Museum is the easiest Manila museum to access. It is a walk away from MRT3 and located right inside the Makati business centre. The museum showcases artefacts like trinkets, antique religious statues and clothing from the various cultures of the Philippines. It has also added a light and sound exhibit that recreates the EDSA Revolution that led to the fall of the Marcoses. Tourists will also enjoy eating at the M Cafe, which offers a fusion of Filipino cooking with Western twists. Greenbelt, Makati Avenue, Makati City Tel: (02) 757 7117-21. Website: www.ayalamuseum.org Admission charge. Shopping Many tourists who feel that Bangkok and Hong Kong are the shopping

destinations in Asia will be pleasantly surprised to find out they are mistaken. Manila is the mall capital of Asia (and probably the world). Almost every city block or two of Metro Manila has a mall and most of these close at 2100. During holidays, malls usually close at 2200 and some offer midnight sales. The humongous Mall of Asia at Roxas Boulevard defies explaining. One day is probably insufficient to visit all its stores. It boasts an IMAX theatre (probably the cheapest IMAX tickets too), a science museum and one building just devoted to entertainment (with exclusive lounges where guests can rent huge TV screens and play Xbox games). Along the MRT3 route, travellers can access at least eight malls, best of which are Glorietta (Makati), Megamall (Mandaluyong City) and Trinoma (Quezon City). MRT3 terminates conveniently at Trinoma Mall. Megamall is home to the Cyberzone, a series of computer hardware and gadget shops. Tiendesitas at the edge of Ortigas highlights local handicrafts, souvenirs and furniture. It also has a market full of local agricultural produce. Visiting Tiendesitas is like a short, compressed tour of the provinces in the country. In Tiendesitas, take the free shuttle or ride a cab to Greenhills Shopping Mall, where you can find all sorts of bargains. Greenhills combines upscale and mass market shops. One whole floor is devoted to mobile phones, while another is devoted to computer hardware. The most upscale malls are in Greenbelt 4 and 5 at Ayala Centre and Bonifacio High Street in Bonifacio Global City, where there are famous brand shops like Mango, Armani and Bulgari. For book lovers, there is a building full of books at Fully Booked in Bonifacio High Street and at Powerbooks in Greenbelt 4. Celebrated writer Neil Gaiman visits Fully Booked almost every year and has even co-sponsored a science fiction/fantasy writing contest with the store. Bargain hunting in Manila would not be complete without a visit to the Divisoria Market, where items are sold in bulk or jaw-dropping prices. You can find almost anything here, from cookware to lingerie to toys. Just beware of pickpockets and snatchers. A few blocks from Divisoria Market is 168 Mall, which is almost like Divisoria Market, but with the advantage of being more orderly and air conditioned. You can buy souvenirs from most of these malls, especially the Megamall which has a huge department devoted to this called Kultura Filipino.

Bangkok Mini Guide Bangkok is a city that really is larger than life. The frenetic pace, heat, traffic and lack of personal space can be overpowering and are good reasons to pass through the city as quickly as possible but, the sheer dynamism is intoxicating. A curious blend of the traditional East with the modern West, Bangkok's every street has a surprise in hold for the visitor. Ramshackle buildings crouch next to exotic temples surrounded by delightful gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices. The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other. But traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries. Bangkok became the capital in 1782, but the absolute rule of the monarchy ended in 1932 when it was replaced by a system of constitutional monarchy. To this day, the monarchy is regarded with almost religious reverence and it is an offence, punishable by imprisonment, to insult the royal family. His Majesty King Bhumibol is the longest-reigning monarch in the world, having come to power in 1946. Following the end of absolute monarchy, Thailand moved towards democracy, but this has been thwarted by the military, which has often staged coups in protest at government policies. The most recent was in September 2006 when a bloodless coup overthrew the Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra. Antigovernment demonstrations took place in August 2008 and the Prime Minister, only elected in December 2007, was removed from office and replaced by Prime Minister Somchai in September. Thailand is a tropical country so it is hot throughout the year, but the best time to visit is between November and March, during the dry season. During the rainy season, humidity is very high and the downpours are short but violent and the streets of Bangkok often flood. City Statistics Location: Central Plain, Thailand.

Dialling code: 66.

Population: 7 million (city); 10 million (metropolitan area).

Time zone: GMT + 7.

Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures: 26C (79F). Average July temperatures: 29C (84F).
Annual rainfall: 1,500mm (58.5 inches).

Sightseeing
The sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, but the heavily congested traffic means it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be selective if time is short or restricted to one area per day, although the Skytrain and Metro do help visitors travel across town more quickly. An excellent way to appreciate the city's layout is to go to the observation deck on the 77th floor of the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, one of the tallest hotels in the world. Many of the main places of interest, such as the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north-south railway line) in an area called Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent shopping, nightlife and tourist sights, such as Suan Pakkard Palace Museum and Jim Thompson Thai House. Apart from the major sights (see Key Attractions), which are all must-see', there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area surrounded by old tamarind trees. This area is used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time. The revamped Museum of Siam, on Sanam Chai Road, traces the history of Thailand up to the modern day using interactive exhibits. Siam Ocean World is an aquarium attraction with a variety of deep ocean habitats and the opportunity to dive with sharks. Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway

station. The area is fascinating for its maze of narrow lanes and open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road, Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, 3m (10ft) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful fabric shops and excellent restaurants. On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture. Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes. For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre. Well worth a visit is Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former summer residence of the royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences. Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed. Tourist Information Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) First Floor, 1600 New Phetburi Road Makkasan, Rajatevee Tel: (02) 250 5500. Website: www.tourismthailand.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630. Key Attractions Royal Grand Palace The Royal Grand Palace is a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building began in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes. Na Phra Lan Road Tel: (02) 623 5500. Website: www.palaces.thai.net Opening hours: Daily 0830-1530.

Admission charge. Vimanmek Palace Vimanmek Palace is the world's largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand's first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace. Ratchawithi Road Tel: (02) 628 6300. Website: www.palaces.thai.net Opening hours: Daily 0930-1515. Admission charge (included with ticket to the Royal Grand Palace). Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and houses an enormous gold-plated Reclining Buddha, which is 46m (150ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. Today, the temple is also renowned for its teaching of herbal medicine and traditional massage. There is a strict dress code. Thai Wang Road Tel: (02) 225 9595. Website: www.watpho.com Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700. Admission charge. National Museum One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the National Museum houses a vast collection of artefacts from the Neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, however if time is short, it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours in English are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended. Na Phrathat Road Tel: (02) 224 1333/1370. Website: www.thailandmuseum.com Opening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600. Admission charge.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 17th-century Wat Arun has a 79m- (259ft-) high tower decorated with multicoloured ceramic tiles, which makes it a landmark along the river. The effect of the tiles is best observed at a distance. The temple was the first home of the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. There is a nightly light and sound show between October and May. Arun Amarin Road Tel: (02) 465 5640. Website: www.watarun.org Opening hours: Daily 0730-1730. Admission charge. Jim Thompson Thai House Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after WWII and the Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song, Rama I Road Tel: (02) 216 7368. Website: www.jimthompsonhouse.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (last tour at 1630). Admission charge. Royal Barge National Museum The royal barges are rarely used by the royal family these days because of their age. A few of them are now preserved in the Royal Barge National Museum on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King. Khlong Bangkok Noi Tel: (02) 424 0004. Website: www.thailandmuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Admission charge.

Shopping
Bangkok is arguably the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoilt for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops and markets. The city is also great for bargain hunters and haggling with street vendors is to be expected. Ploenchit and Rama I roads have several glitzy shopping malls along them with designer brands, restaurants and cinemas. The River City Shopping Complex, adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, has two floors devoted to antiques. Prices are fixed in most department stores but they do frequently offer discounts to interested buyers. Sukhumvit Road has a wide range of silk and gift shops, as well as many tailors. Most visitors will head to the many street markets for their colourful atmosphere and lower prices. The Sukhumvit Road area has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items and gifts. Apart from the colourful nightlife in Patpong, the area also has a bustling night market where clothes and souvenirs are a real bargain. The weekend market at Chatuchak Park, on Phaholyothin Road, sells virtually everything that Thailand makes or grows, such as furniture, carpets, ceramics, watches, clothes, food and flowers. The Suan Lum night bazaar at the intersection of Rama IV and Wireless Roads is very popular with thousands of stalls selling gifts, clothes, handicrafts and jewellery. However, attempts are being made to close the market and this could happen at any time. Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics. Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the Thieves' Market', located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware and furniture. Good buys to be found throughout the city include silk items, silver and gold, gems (rubies and sapphires are indigenous to Thailand), pearls, painted umbrellas and fans, ceramics, wickerwork, woodcarvings and leather goods. It is also an ideal place to have clothes made and the quality is of a high standard. Many stores are open 12 hours a day, seven days a week and the street markets have even longer hours, although some are busier in the mornings and others in the evenings. A Thailand Duty-Free Shop is located in the Downtown Duty Free Mall, King Power Complex, Rangnam Road. Tourists can pay for their purchases here and collect them at the airport immediately prior to departure from the country. Value Added Tax (7%) can be refunded on goods bought in shops labelled VAT refund for tourists', where there is a minimum transaction of 2 ,000 including

VAT.

Singapore Mini Guide Once a simple fishing village, it was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles, an official of the British East India Company, who decided it was the perfect location for a trading station. Since then it has become one of the world's most prosperous cities. Singapore, known as the Lion City, is by far the largest and most significant island alongside the others that make up Singapore state. Here, especially at the mouth of the Singapore River, Asian tradition meets modern technology gleaming skyscrapers tower over traditional architecture, while squat Chinese and Hindu temples stud the city. A curious blend of ancient and modern, the city is home to an ethnic mix of Chinese, Malays and Indians, as well as expats from all over the world, in a predominantly English-speaking society. These different races live harmoniously thanks to religious tolerance, increased prosperity and stringent no-nonsense laws. Since the island became an independent Republic in 1965, it has enjoyed a vigorous and successful free trade policy, as introduced by its then Prime Minister (now Minister Mentor) Lee Kuan Yew. This has led to an unprecedented rise in the standard of living (most city dwellers own their own homes) and exponential economic growth, due mainly to the export industry. The economy and tourist industry have enjoyed recent good health after some earlier pitfalls: Singapore's healthy economy was dented between 2001 and 2003 during the global recession, it suffered a heavy loss in tourist numbers after September 11 and the SARS outbreak in 2003. A hearty recovery since 2004 (the year that Lee Hsien Loong, Lee Kuan Yew's eldest son, was elected prime minister) has seen the unemployment figures falling from 3.4% to just 2.8% by mid-2006. This has gone hand-in-hand with a buoyant 2006 for tourist figures - the all-time high of 9.7 million visitors far exceeded the Singapore Tourist Board's estimates. Lee was re-elected in 2006. Its world-beating Changi Airport represents Singapore's impressive efficiency, cleanliness and technology at its best, although hiding behind that faade is the more sinister means of achieving these qualities. Those breaking the law face canings, corrective work orders and harsh financial penalties, and there are

infamous on-the-spot fines for jay-walking or dropping a cigarette, while more serious crimes, such as drug trafficking, are punished by the death penalty. Yet the financial and business districts are home to a steady stream of wellheeled expats who enjoy a good quality of life. In Singapore, oiling the wheels of success and becoming the best (an economic miracle to show the rest of the world the way) seems paramount. It is frequently voted Asia's top business destination, and is regarded as one of the finest venues for international conferences, conventions and exhibitions, with a fast-growing market for incentive travel. All of this business thrives amid a constant flow of festivals and events in the ethnic quarters of Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai (traditionally the home of Singapore's Malay, Arab and Indonesian communities), which mark the many religious and cultural occasions throughout the calendar. These areas have managed to retain some of their cultural identity despite the high-rise growth, modernising and development around them. Although Raffles Hotel and a rank of good museums furnish insights into the past, modern consumer culture is the most prolific. The Great Singapore Sale dominates the early summer in the city centre, and most visitors to Singapore will indulge in its competitive prices and great selection, especially in electronics equipment. And everybody comes to eat, with food outlets at every step, from traditional hawker centres to modern food courts, Asian specialities to international haute cuisine - reflecting the diversity of ethnic communities that Singapore has long been home to.

City Statistics
Location: Singapore state, Southeast Asia. Dialling code: 65; but note no city code, just eight digits to follow, always

beginning with 6'.

Population: 4.35 million (including permanent residents and foreign

workers). Time zone: GMT + 8.

Electricity: 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs, or two-pin with

adapter. Average January temperatures: 26C (79F). Average July temperatures: 27C (81F).
Annual rainfall: 2,415mm (95 inches); rainy season Nov-Jan.

Sightseeing Despite a lack of natural resources, or perhaps because of it, Singapore has capitalised on the energy, enterprise and skills of its inhabitants to create something approaching a tourist mecca. Although most tourists only stop over for a couple of days in transit, many are beginning to stay longer and Singapore has much to merit a longer visit. This is a city where the first impression is that of man's achievements; the efficient and aesthetically pleasing Changi Airport is repeatedly voted the world's best. But here, world firsts are becoming commonplace, for example Suntec City boasts the biggest man-made fountain, the Night Safari is the first night zoo and the world's highest man-made waterfall, at 30m (98ft), is at Jurong BirdPark. Heat and humidity notwithstanding, the most efficient way to get to know local culture is on foot, especially around Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai in the heart of the city. These areas especially illustrate how Singapore's successful economy is based upon ancient traditions, rituals and beliefs. It is usually this combination that entices people, but for a healthy dose of pure consumerism and entirely modern architecture, Orchard Road is ideal. But Singapore is not all urban landscape as first appears, and in keeping with its 'Garden City' label, there are many areas of natural beauty, albeit with a little help from humans. The Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, Singapore Zoological Gardens, the Night Safari and Bukit Timah Nature Reserve are all hugely popular. For history lovers and culture vultures, there is also an impressive selection of museums, exhibitions and architectural heritage, like the Asian Civilisations Museum and the Singapore Art Museum. New attractions include the MINT Museum of Toys, and Aramsa Garden Spa for resting weary feet. Tourist Information Singapore Visitors Centre Junction of Cairnhill and Orchard Roads Tel: 1 800 736 2000. Website: www.visitsingapore.com or www.stb.com.sg Opening hours: 0930-2230 daily. Passes Admission ticket packages are available for Singapore Zoological Gardens, Night Safari and Jurong BirdPark, also with combinations of any two. Tickets are valid for one month from the date of purchase. The Visitor Card (website: www.thevisitorscard.com) offers up to 40% off admission to many attractions and certain guided tours.

Key Attractions Raffles Hotel Built in 1887 and declared a National Monument a century later, Singapore's most famous landmark is one of the world's greatest Victorian hotels. A favourite retreat for Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Noel Coward and Charlie Chaplin, it oozes colonial grace, enhanced by its extensive facelift in 1991, which cost S$160 million. Afternoon tea or a Tiffin Curry Buffet in the Tiffin Room, a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar and a drink under the cool high ceilings of the Bar & Billiard Room are all part of the Singapore experience. In addition, the stylish arcade contains shops, restaurants, a Victorian-style playhouse, and a museum housing fascinating Raffles memorabilia. 1 Beach Road Tel: 6337 1886. Website: www.raffleshotel.com Free admission. Chinatown Chinatown's history dates back to 1821 when the first Chinese junk carrying immigrants arrived from Fujian province. Much of it has been rebuilt and the old shop-houses restored and it remains one of the most interesting areas to explore, with a lively street scene rich with traditional architecture and customs. Its four main districts have their own distinctive flavour: Kreta Ayer (eating and shopping), Telok Ayer (temples and Speakers' Corner), Tanjong Pagar (nightlife and the scaled-down model of the city at URA Gallery) and Bukit Pasoh (Chinese cultural and clan associations). The lively paved Smith Street is known as Food Street, open 1700-2300 weekdays and 1700-0100 Friday, Saturday and the eve of public holidays and is close to fantastic clothes and souvenir shops. Little India The streets of Little India, inhabited by the original Indian immigrants brought over by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, has been a thriving commercial area for over a century. Today's attractions are mainly shopping, eating and temples, especially along the main hub of Serangoon Road, with spicy aromas emerging from shop-houses and wonderful Indian food to be devoured in the many informal restaurants. The Little India Arcade and Zhujiao Centre (also known as Tekka Centre) are newly converted shop-houses selling handicrafts, saris and spices, with more commercial wares at the 24-hour open Mustafa Centre. During Hindu festivals, the area comes to life especially around the thriving temples. Night Safari The award-winning Night Safari is billed as the world's first night wildlife park. As 90% of animals are nocturnal, this safari shows animals at their most active by using clever lighting techniques. Spread over 40 hectares (100 acres) of lush

forest, more than 1,000 animals covering 100 exotic species, live in eight zones recreating geographic regions, including the African savannah and South American pampas. There are three walking trails, plus a 45-minute tram ride, cocktail safari express and limo buggy trail. The 'Creatures of the Night' show sees employees grappling with some of the less dangerous species. 180 Mandai Lake Road Tel: 6269 3411 (24-hour information). Website: www.nightsafari.com.sg Opening hours: Daily 1800 -2400 (last admission 2300). Admission charge. Jurong BirdPark The largest bird park in the Asia Pacific, covering over 50 acres (20 hectares), this is home to more than 9,000 birds from 600 different species worldwide. Highlights of their shows include Waterfall Aviary, at 30m (98ft) the world's highest man-made waterfall; the Penguin Parade with a panoramic viewing gallery to watch the 200 penguins feeding; the South East Asian Bird Aviary, where a thunderstorm is simulated every day at noon; recent addition African Wetlands, and Jungle Jewels, featuring dazzling hummingbirds. At the Lodge on Flamingo Lake, visitors can dine in a three-storey glass restaurant surrounded by 1001 flamingos. An air-conditioned monorail covers the entire park. 2 Jurong Hill Tel: 6265 0022. Website: www.birdpark.com.sg Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission charge. Singapore River Once the lifeline of Singapore, and first port of call for its first immigrants, the river takes in many sights. Boat Quay and Clarke Quay have buzzing nightlife with lively waterfront bars and restaurants, while Robertson Quay is more classy and tranquil. Parliament House, originally a colonial mansion built in 1827 and now The Arts House, has been a venue for contemporary arts since 2004. Places of worship include Tan Si Chong Su Temple, an ancestral Hokkien temple built in 1876, and Omar Kampong Melaka Mosque. There are several riverboat services for leisurely cruises (see Tours of the City). Clarke Quay is also home to the stomach-churning G-Max Reverse Bungy. Singapore River is being further developed into a 24-hour waterfront precinct. Supreme Court and City Hall Dating from 1939, the Supreme Court is one of the finest buildings from British Rule in Singapore, with Corinthian columns and impressive Italian murals. The

adjacent City Hall, built in 1929, was the site of the Japanese surrender to Lord Mountbatten in 1945 and also where Singapore's Independence from Malaysia was declared. Visitors are permitted to attend most court hearings, and tour the building in organised groups. No shorts or vest tops. 1 Supreme Court Lane Tel: 6336 0644. Website: www.supcourt.gov.sg Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0830-1300. Free admission. Singapore Art Museum Transformed from a 19th-century boys' school built by Irish Catholic monks, this is one of Singapore's most striking structures. Now home to the Singapore Art Museum, its exhibits are predominantly 20th-century South East Asian art, with paintings, sculptures and installations. Although specialising in regional art, the museum has recently broadened its field. Free guided tours in English are available. 71 Bras Basah Road Tel: 6332 3222. Website: www.nhb.gov.sg/sam Opening hours: Sat-Thu 1000-1900; Fri 1000-2100. Admission charge; free on Fri 1800-2100 and major public holidays. Singapore Science Centre Housing more than 850 exhibits, mostly interactive, this is Singapore's largest collection devoted to science. Exhibition halls include the Discovery Zone for young children, the Human Body, Space Science, the Hall of Aviation, and the Web of Life - all explaining science in ingenious ways. Outside are the Ecogarden and the Kinetic Garden, which is the first of its kind in Asia, with interactive sculptures and science displays. There is also an Omni-Theatre screening IMAX movies. Within the complex is the new Snow City, the first permanent indoor snow centre in Singapore, offering facilities for snowboarding, skiing or 'organised' snow-ball fights. 15 Science Centre Road Tel: 6425 2500. Website: www.science.edu.sg Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800; Omni-Theatre 1000-2000. Admission charge. Snow City 21 Jurong Town Hall Road

Tel: 6788 8788. Website: www.snowcity.com.sg Opening hours: Daily 0900-1830. Check for session times. Admission charge. Singapore Cable Car Spanning over 1,750m (5,740ft) and rising up to 93m (305ft) above sea level, this is South East Asia's first ever cable car. It stops at three stations (visitors can board at all three) each with beautiful, and very different, views: Mount Faber is the second highest hill in Singapore and an equatorial rainforest; Cable Car Towers is the rooftop of a skyscraper, near the Harbour Front Centre and above the busy harbour; the third station is on the island of Sentosa. Some cars are glass-bottomed, making the journey even more spectacular. A free shuttle service takes visitors between Mount Faber and various transport locations. 109 Mount Faber Road, Cable Car Towers, 3 Maritime Square, or Sentosa Island Tel: 6270 8855. Website: www.mountfaber.com.sg Operating hours: Daily 0830-2300. Admission charge. Asian Civilisations Museum The museum is split into two wings. The newer, housed in the restored Empress Place Building, focuses on a broad and in-depth perspective of pan-Asian culture and civilisations. It houses 11 galleries containing over 1,300 artefacts from civilisations of China, South East Asia, South Asia and the Islamic societies of West Asia. Free guided tours in English are available. The location of the museum, at the neo-Palladian Empress Place, was once a government office and overlooks the mouth of the Singapore River. The museum's older wing re-opened as the new Peranakan Museum in 2008 in the former Tao Nan school building following extensive restoration. 1 Empress Place Tel: 6332 2982/7798. Website: www.acm.org.sg Opening hours: Mon 1300-1900, Tues-Sun 0900-1900 (until 2100 Fri). Admission charge. Peranakan Museum 39 Armenian Street Tel: 6332 7591. Website: www.acm.org.sg Opening hours: Mon 1300-1900, Tues-Sun 0930-1900 (until 2100 Fri). Admission charge.

Changi Chapel & Museum A harrowing monument to more than 50,000 soldiers and civilians who were killed during Japanese occupation (1942-45), Changi Chapel, a replica of many built at this time, is housed within the courtyard of the new museum. The museum contains letters, drawings and personal effects of the prisoners of war, with a replica of the Changi Murals and screenings of several videos. Services are held every Sunday 0945-1100 in the chapel, visitors welcome. 1000 Upper Changi Road North Tel: 6214 2451. Website: www.changimuseum.com Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700. Free admission. Singapore Botanic Gardens As a perfect respite from the city's urban landscape, the gardens epitomise the island's luxuriant parks with a combination of primary jungle and elegantly laidout flowerbeds and shrubs, serving to educate and conserve. With over 3,000 species spread over 52 hectares (128 acres), the National Orchid Garden has the world's largest orchid display, with over 60,000 plants in total. The gardens are also a venue for outdoor concerts. 1 Cluny Road Tel: 6471 7361. Website: www.sbg.org.sg Opening hours: Daily 0500-2400; daily 0830-1900 (National Orchid Garden). Free admission; charge for the National Orchid Garden. Sentosa Island Billed as a 'tropical isle of peace and tranquillity', Sentosa Island is a purposebuilt island theme park, with attractions including Underwater World, a huge tropical oceanarium with 2,500 marine creatures in an 83m (272ft) submerged tunnel; Dolphin Lagoon, a water show with a pink dolphin; and the 37m (121ft) Merlion. Museums include Images of Singapore, with waxwork figures depicting Singapore's history, and Fort Siloso, recreating bunkers and underground passages used for defence. The viewing platform at the top of Carlsberg Sky Tower offers a great panoramic view of Singapore, gently revolving at 131m (430ft) above sea level. Meanwhile, Sentosa 4D Magix is Singapore's first and South East Asia's largest cinema of its kind, and boasts state-of-the-art projection technology and sound system. The Sijori WonderGolf is an 18-hole miniature golf course, certified by the Minigolf Sport Federation. Beaches, golf courses, hotels, entertainment and restaurants, are dotted throughout Sentosa. A lightrail and bus tour the island and visitors can jump off at any station.

Tel: 1 800 736 8672. Website: www.sentosa.com.sg Opening hours: Attractions vary; usually daily 0900-1900 (or as late as 2200). Admission charge. Singapore Flyer This enormous Ferris wheel, towering above Singapore, offers panoramic views across the Marina Bay, city skyscrapers and tropical forest. Standing at 165m (541ft) the graceful curve described against the Singapore skyline, artfully lit at night, is an attraction in itself. A ride in one of the wheel's 28 pods will take just over 30 minutes. 30 Raffles Avenue Tel: 6333 3311. Website: www.singaporeflyer.com.sg Opening hours: Daily 0830-1030. Admission charge. Shopping Singapore has long been an irresistible magnet for many a visitor, mainly because of its vast selection of air-conditioned shopping malls. Retail therapy is constantly promoted, whether for shopalolic locals or for tourists, especially during the Great Singapore Sale between May to early June. During this time, most stores have amazing bargains, sometimes 70% off, and grabbing them is almost a national obsession. Orchard Road is the central retail district and is lined on both sides with shopping malls ranging from designer clothes retailers such as Hilton Shopping Gallery, to high-street bargains at the Far East Shopping Centre. Ngee Ann City is the largest mall of all, with more than 100 speciality stores in addition to its flagship Japanese superstore, Takashimaya. On the top floors of the Heeren Centre, Annex is a collection of market stalls selling vintage fashion and quirky accessories. Below is a huge HMV, the largest music store in the city. Centrepoint, in the middle of Orchard Road, is home to Robinsons, Singapore's oldest and award-winning department store. Delfi Orchard has Waterford crystal and Wedgewood china, and Orchard Towers has Thai silk, antiques and leather among its small shops. Bugis Junction, whose dark alleyways were once the haunt of Singapore's transvestite community, is now a glass-covered air-conditioned street known as Parco, incorporating shop-houses, modern outlets and a huge Japanese department store. The night market at Bugis Village, opposite Parco, still has the

charm of its past years. Raffles City, at City Hall, contains the noted Chinese Embroidery House, and opposite are exclusive boutiques at Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade. Near Singapore's financial district is Chinatown, cultural hub of the Chinese migrants and a colourful web of streets and alleys with a wealth of artefacts, jewellery, clothes, food and medicines behind traditional Chinese shop-house fronts. Tanjong Pagar is filled with traditional teashops, Chinese laquerware, kites and Asian handicrafts. Smith Street and Trangganu Street are best for gifts and bargains, and stylish and cheap Chinese clothes. The junction of Cross Street, New Bridge Road and Eu Tong Seng Street has modern shopping arcades including department store Yue Hwa Chinese Products, Chinatown Point housing the Singapore Handicraft Centre, and People's Park Complex. You can find everything from electrical goods to textiles here. Little India, on and around Serangoon Road, is a treasure trove of sumptuous textiles, as well as spices, jewellery, handicrafts and cheap Indian CDs. The Mustafa Centre, a three-storey emporium open 24 hours, sells mainly electrical goods at fixed prices and offers excellent deals, although it is worth checking the warranty. The Tekka Centre (also known as KK Market) is the busy wet market with fish, fowl, flowers and more. Singaporeans love Sim Lim Square (Bugis) for discount electronic goods; six levels stacked with cameras, computer equipment, pirate CDs, hi-fi and video equipment. Again, visitors should check for a valid warranty and do not be tempted by pushy sales staff. Funan Centre (City Hall) has dozens of computer shops on each floor at competitive prices. The warehouses on Dempsey Road sell Chinese antiques, original and reproduction furniture, while Tanglin Shopping Centre, Orchard Road, hoards some of Asia's finest statues, carpets and antique furniture. One of the best flea markets is at Clarke Quay, 3 River Valley Road, every Sunday 1000-1800. The flea market outside Tanglin Mall, 163 Tanglin Road, is mainly for fashion and is open the first and third Saturday of every month 17002300. Thieves Market on and around Sungei Road is open weekends 1100-1800, with a haphazard collection of second-hand novelty items and handicrafts. The suburbs are making their mark on the shopping scene, offering a different flavour to the main retail areas. Holland Village has a bohemian air, with antiques, Asian arts and vintage clothes shops among glam wine bars and wet markets, with good discount stores for clothes. Laid-back Changi Village seems far from the frenetic air of the city, with bargains in everyday clothes and

household goods. Most stores are open daily about 1000-2100/2200, although boutiques close earlier. All prices include a 7% Goods and Services Tax (GST), which is refundable at Changi Airport's Premier Tax Free (website: www.premiertaxfree.com)

Las Vegas Mini Guide

Located in the middle of the arid Mojave Desert, at the southern tip of the state of Nevada, Las Vegas is an oasis of life, energy and money - a city whose raison d'tre is entertainment. Over 35 million people visit Las Vegas year round, staying in the city's 150,000 hotel rooms. According to the Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce, Las Vegas is now the fastest growing city in North America with an estimated two acres of land being developed every 24 hours, and seeing approximately 50,000 people annually choosing to make the city and suburbs their home. Ironically, Las Vegas' beginnings were, if anything, humble. In the 18th century, the spot where the city now stands earned the named Las Vegas (Spanish for The Plains'), because of a natural spring that created greenery in the dry desert. The city itself was founded in 1905 (as a stopover on the Union Pacific railway between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City) but it remained a remote backwater until the 1930s. In 1931, however, gambling was made legal and Las Vegas quickly began to assume its present character. At first, it drew the droves of workers building the nearby Hoover Dam. Soon, it became a gambling and vacation mecca for the entire country - it attracted stars like Frank Sinatra, Elvis and Liberace and became America's premier entertainment hub. The 1990s saw a trend towards building enormous hotel complexes competing with one another for the title of largest hotel in the world, and it has not let up to this day. The competition was won by the city-like MGM Grand, whose capacity of over 5,000 rooms has yet to be bettered, although the Bellagio, the Wynn Las Vegas and the newly opened Palazzo have certainly raised the bar in terms of lavish luxury and unchecked hedonism. Today, Las Vegas is booming like never before. Entertainment so dominates Las Vegas that it is the backbone of the city's economy, creating vibrant hotel, retail and hospitality industries. The city's sheer exuberance in attracting visitors has created something along the lines of a city-sized theme park. Its residents lead normal lives in normal suburbs, but to visitors, it is an endless playground of neon lights, hotel lounges, topless revues, live entertainment and casinos. By 2010, the face of the Strip is expected to be completely transformed following the

completion of Project CityCenter and Echelon Place, two multiple high-rise, mixed-use residential and commercial developments that will boast the latest in contemporary urban design and architecture. City Statistics

Location: Nevada, USA. Dialling code: 1. Population: 552,539 (city); 1,777,539 (Clark County). Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT- 7 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November). Electricity: 110 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 8C (46F). Average July temperatures: 34C (94F). Annual rainfall: 107mm (4.2 inches).
Sightseeing While most cities have particular entertainment districts for tourists to visit among other attractions, Las Vegas is one giant entertainment district. Las Vegas Boulevard (the central attraction for this 24-hour city) runs through the heart of Downtown, in the north of the city, and turns into the Strip, in the south. The city is divided into two halves - Downtown and the Strip. Downtown (also known as Glitter Gulch' for the bright neon signs and millions of flashing lights) is the living embodiment of old Las Vegas. Here, the vintage-style hotels, casinos, stage shows and strip joints are joined by the new and popular Fremont Street Experience Mall. Further south, the Strip is home to the latest, biggest and most ambitious casinos, many of which verge on being mini theme parks. Casinos are obviously Las Vegas' biggest draw card and the biggest and the best are listed under Key Attractions. Tourist Information Las Vegas Visitor Information Center 3150 Paradise Road

Tel: (702) 892 7575 or 1 877 847 4858. Website: www.lvcva.com Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700. Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Las Vegas. Key Attractions Wynn Las Vegas Erected on the spot where once stood the legendary Desert Inn, one of Las Vegas' newest landmarks is the glamorous Wynn Las Vegas. The latest property developed by Vegas casino kingpin Steve Wynn opened its doors in April 2005. Sheathed in coppery bronze reflecting the desert sun, this 42-storey, 78-hectare (192-acre), US$2.7 billion megaresort boasts a 10,000-sq-m (110,000-sq-ft) casino, 2,700 guest rooms, an 18-hole professionally designed golf course, a fine art gallery and Las Vegas' only fully authorised Ferrari-Maserati dealership. The centrepiece of the resort is a 46m- (150ft-) high mountain with a five-storey waterfall cascading into a man-made lake featuring The Lake of Dreams, a multimedia spectacular in an environmental theatre setting. The Wynn also features a US$70m, 2,000-seat domed showroom with a circular stage, the first of its kind in the city and the home of Le Reve, the latest production from Franco Dragone, of Cirque du Soleil fame and the mastermind behind three of Las Vegas' most popular shows. The resort will also boast close to 5,000 rooms with the scheduled completion of Encore, a 2,000-suite tower, in 2009. 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 770 7000 or 1 877 321 9966. Website: www.wynnlasvegas.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission (hotel and casino). Bellagio The Bellagio has quickly become one of Las Vegas' best-known and most visited hotelcasinos. Cashing in on the recent trend towards Euro-opulence, the Bellagio sits on its own four-hectare (10-acre) oasis', featuring a mock northern Italian village on the shore, behind which looms the bulking mass of the large hotel. The hotel offers 3,200 rooms and suites (see Hotels), 17 restaurants, six lounges, botanical gardens and six Mediterranean pool settings. Its 9,000-sq-m (100,000-sq-ft) casino features over 2,000 slot machines and electronic games and over 100 table games. The Bellagio also has a fine art gallery, which hosts contemporary art exhibits, as well as a 9,000-sq-m

(100,000-sq-ft) glass-encased shopping mall. A popular attraction is the dancing water show from the Bellagio's world-famous fountains every 30 minutes Monday to Friday 1500-2000 (starts at 1200 on Saturday and Sunday) and every 15 minutes from 20002400. 3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 693 7111 or 1 888 987 6667. Website: www.bellagio.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission (hotel and casino); admission charge (art gallery). Fremont Street and The Fremont Street Experience Located Downtown, near the Plaza Hotel, Fremont Street is a favourite nightly flocking ground for the city's many tourists. Ten casinos, over 60 restaurants and countless bars and lounges offer Old Las Vegas style enticement to visitors. Peddlers sell silver jewellery and various crafts from their pushcart stalls by day and especially at night, when Fremont Street comes alive with The Fremont Street Experience. Perched nearly 30m (90ft) above Fremont Street is a hi-tech overhead light and sound show stretching for five blocks over 425m (1,400ft) composed of one of the world's largest and longest LED screens. The Experience is an ideal way to take in the 'real' Las Vegas and see some of her older and well-known neon signs, for example Glitter Gulch's Vegas Vickie and the equally recognisable Vegas Vic. Fremont Street is open 24 hours with shows starting at 2030 and from then running hourly between 2100 and 2400. A particular hit for those travelling with families. Fremont Street Experience 425 Fremont Street Tel: (702) 678 5777. Website: www.vegasexperience.com Opening hours: Fremont Street is open 24 hours. Free admission (street and show). MGM Grand Since its completion in 1993, the momentous MGM Grand has held the title of largest hotel in the world, with over 5,005 rooms. Its enormous Grand Garden Arena has also become one of the key venues for boxing matches in the USA. The casino area alone is 15,300 sq m (170,000 sq ft). Other features include 15 restaurants, a coffee shop, a food court with five lounges, two showrooms, two wedding chapels, five pools including a flowing river pool, a lion habitat, a dance club and shopping complex. The MGM Grand

is also a main terminal station for the Las Vegas Monorail. 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 891 7777 or 1 877 880 0880. Website: www.mgmgrand.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (hotel and casino); daily 1100-2200 (lion habitat). Free admission (hotel, casino and lion habitat). Caesars Palace An old denizen of the Strip, Caesars Palace possesses more Las Vegas character than many of its newer neighbours. It sits in a lavish Roman setting, perhaps the historical theme best suited to this city of excess, with Roman columns, grand staircases, manicured shrubbery, imported marble statuary and luxuriant fountains. Its two main casinos, measuring a total of 12,050 sq m (129,750 sq ft), feature all the regular games, as well as an empire' of slot machines that feature prizes such as motorcycles and convertible cars, and jackpots that have reached more than US$21 million. Recent additions to the Caesars Palace property include the Colosseum, a high-limit slot salon The Palace Court Slot Casino and the all-suites Augustus Tower. 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 731 7110 or 1 866 227 5938. Website: www.caesarspalace.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission (hotel and casino). Mirage Of all the mega-casinos that line the Strip, the Mirage provides the biggest outdoor spectacle. The evening sees queues of people taking in the artificial volcano that erupts every 15 minutes from 1900-2400. The setting is completed by an artificial lagoon with 54 artificial waterfalls that flow down the side of the volcano. As visitors make their way inside, they enter an indoor tropical rainforest, a dolphin habitat and a saltwater tropical aquarium. The hotel also boasts a pool and spa, eight restaurants, four lounge bar areas, a white tiger habitat, its famed Shadow Creek golf course and the requisite casino, which features over 2,000 slot machines. 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 791 7111 or 1 800 374 9000. Website: www.mirage.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.

Free admission (hotel and casino). Venetian Resort Hotel and Casino This US$2 billion addition to Las Vegas is yet another complex to cash in on a European theme. To some, it was a tragedy to see the demolition of the historic Sands Hotel and Casino to make way for this hotel but no effort was spared in creating the Venetian. Much of the complex features actual canals, on which gondolas carry visitors up and down the waterways. The 10,800-sq-m (120,000-sq-ft) casino, featuring 2,500 slot machines and 122 table games, sits behind a replica of the Doge's Palace. The complex's 18 restaurants, four pools and a fitness centre cater to the visitor's nongambling whims. 3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South Tel: (702) 414 1000 or 1 877 883 6423. Website: www.venetian.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission (hotel and casino). The Palazzo Las Vegas This US$1.6 billion, 53-storey extension of the Venetian boasts 3,025 suites, 375 concierge-level suites, six self-contained villas and a variety of designer restaurants, bars and clubs including the third location of Jay-Z's 40/40 Club. Together with the Venetian and the Sands Expo Center, the Palazzo is the largest resort complex in the world. Home to the Strip's first underground parking garage, the Palazzo is also the first of Las Vegas's new generation of ultra-compact resorts, and will serve as a precedent for the hotels in Project Citycenter and Echelon Place to come. 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South Tel: (702) 414 4300 or 1 866 263 3001. Website: www.palazzolasvegas.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission (hotel and casino). Las Vegas Natural History Museum The Las Vegas Natural History Museum brings the natural world of local Nevada wildlife to life, as well as ancient dinosaurs, marine life and more, through exhibits, displays and live exhibitions. The museum's dinosaur exhibit features mechanical dinosaurs, including a 10m- (35ft-) long Tyrannosaurus Rex, as well as the exhibits detailing the evolution of life from fish to dinosaurs. The Wild Nevada Room explores the surprising diversity of

life from the state's own Mojave Desert. Replicas include rattlesnake, bighorn sheep, desert tortoises and burrowing rodents. The museum also has live animals on display, such as a gopher snake, a tarantula, a boa constrictor and scorpions. 900 Las Vegas Boulevard North, Downtown Tel: (702) 384 3466. Website: www.lvnhm.org Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600. Admission charge. Shopping Although Las Vegas is best known for its casinos, the city has gained increasing popularity for shopping, to the point where this is now a major tourist draw in itself. Visitors can look forward to a wide variety of boutique shopping, featuring major European and American designers, as well as inexpensive factory outlet shopping. There is also the stereotypical memorabilia on hand - such as Elvis outfits, lighters and Tshirts. Shops are located anywhere tourists might happen to pass with money in their pockets in other words anywhere in Downtown and on the Strip. As with almost everything, the hotel-casinos spare no expense in their efforts to attract customers. The Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes (website: www.venetian.com/gcs.aspx) are situated among cobbled walkways that wind through designer boutiques culminating in a replica of St Mark's Square. The Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino offers the Miracle Mile (website: www.planethollywoodresort.com/shopssub.php), a shopping complex offering over 170 brand name retail shops. The Bellagio's Via Bellagio offers upmarket European shops including Gucci, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Prada and Herms. Paris Las Vegas features quaint cobblestone walkways rimmed with European and North American speciality stores. Caesars Palace Forum (website: www.caesarspalace.com) is a beautiful premier retail destination to shop and eat. Also known as the most successful shopping venue in the country, it has over 160 shops and boutiques ranging from fashion such as Escada, Judith Leiber and Versace, to gourmet restaurants that include Spago and the Palm. Factory outlet malls are also very popular in Las Vegas, due to the considerable savings they offer on brand-name goods. The Belz Factory Outlet World, 7400 Las Vegas Boulevard South, offers over 140 outlets with brand names such as Danskin, Tommy Hilfiger and Liz Claiborne. There are a number of department store malls in Las Vegas

and the Fashion Show Mall, 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South (tel: (702) 369 0704; website: www.thefashionshow.com), is one of the city's oldest and most prestigious shopping centres. Its upscale tenants include Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Macy's. The mall also features sidewalk cafes, upscale restaurants and a fashion catwalk for daily fashion shows. A non-refundable state sales tax of 7.25% is charged in Las Vegas (Clark County Nevada). Stores are open seven days a week, normally 1000-2200.

Los Angeles Mini Guide Los Angeles is the USA's second largest city after New York. It has been called everything from La La Land to Tinseltown but is most commonly known simply as LA. Sprawling along the Pacific coast of southern California, its coastline stretches 122km (76 miles) from Malibu to Long Beach. Inland, the city fills a vast, flat and once arid basin ringed by the Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains. Arriving by plane gives a good first impression. Out of this vast flat grid of streets and buildings rises a cluster of imposing skyscrapers. These mark Downtown, 26km (16 miles) inland from the coast. Northeast is Pasadena. To the west and northwest are Hollywood, Beverly Hills and Century City and the wide San Fernando Valley. To the south is Long Beach. Along the west coast are Santa Monica, Venice Beach and Marina del Rey. Founded in 1781 by Mexican settlers, over the centuries, LA grew from a cow town to a Gold Rush boomtown to an oil town. In the 1920s, the fledgling film industry decamped from New York in search of sunshine and Hollywood was born. Today, all the major studios are here and the city is the world's undisputed king of film-making. Disneyland may be the city's major attraction, but LA is also home to world-renowned cultural institutions from the Museum of Contemporary Art to the LA Philharmonic and the stunning Getty Museum. LA is exuberant - there are few places in the world where the phrase Express Yourself' is taken so literally. Hippy health fanatics exist happily alongside some of the most glamorous and wealthy people in the world. Most visitors come to enjoy world-class shops and restaurants, lie on beaches bathed in almost constant sunshine and simply to people watch.

City Statistics
Location: California, western United States. Dialling code: 1. Population: 4 million (city); 10.3 million (Los Angeles County); 18.2 million (Los Angeles Five-County Area). Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November). Electricity: 110 volts AC; standard two-pin plugs are used. Average January temperatures: 14C (57F). Average July temperatures: 23C (73F). Annual rainfall: 375mm (14.84 inches).

Sightseeing
Shopping and eating may well be two of LA's most popular pastimes, but the city's parks, arts, historic enclaves and shiny new entertainment complexes are all crowdpleasers. And this old diva is never one to rest on her laurels. 2008 saw the opening of the impressive Broad Contemporary Art Museum, the renovation and expansion of the historic Griffith Park observatory and the creation of the thrilling Simpsons ride at Universal Studios. The sights of Los Angeles are spread throughout five counties. At off-peak times, the freeways are quick and convenient and it is easy to get around. Downtown LA comprises the financial district with skyscrapers that seem all the more surprising because the rest of the city is so flat. It is also home to lively local communities with markets (there's the fabled, indoor Grand Central Market for local produce) and shops. Here are Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Hispanic centre around Olvera Street (the historic district where the city was founded) with landmarks from the city's early 20th-century heyday, as well as cultural institutions like the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and Museum of Contemporary Art.

The LA Philharmonic's dramatic Walt Disney Concert Hall is one of the most striking recent additions to the city's cultural and architectural landscape, and is reminiscent of Frank Gehry's other masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. East of Downtown, the city of Pasadena, in the San Gabriel Valley, has a historic centre and two outstanding museums - the Norton Simon and the Huntington. To the west of Downtown is Hollywood, although the actual Hollywood sign is located high above Hollywood Boulevard up in the hills near Griffith Park. The famous sign is situated on a steep incline, which means that it cannot be visited but the extensive Griffith Park is great for a wander and fantastic panoramas of the whole city. It contains the famous 1935 art deco Griffith Observatory. Down below in actual Hollywood, the streets and boulevards are less glamorous than their name might suggest and the Hollywood Walk of Fame is fascinating but hardly high class. There have been successful attempts to upgrade areas, such as Hollywood and Vine, and there is a string of small museums, mostly connected to films; the famous Grauman's Chinese Theatre; some notable if occasionally rundown art deco buildings and, on its northern edge, the popular Universal Studios. The Westside encompasses trendy, fashionable and primarily gay West Hollywood, rich and handsome Beverly Hills, Miracle Mile, Century City, Westwood Village (where UCLA is situated) and Brentwood. Each has its own atmosphere and attractions. West Hollywood has a glitzy stretch of Sunset Boulevard, with its enormous hand-painted billboards on the sides of buildings, while Rodeo Drive is Beverly Hills' most famous street. Stretching along the Pacific coast are the Beach Cities, including Santa Monica, Venice Beach, and Marina Del Rey, as well as Malibu to the north and Long Beach, which lies south of Downtown on San Pedro Bay. Southeast of Downtown is Orange County, home of Disneyland and Knott's Berry Farm theme parks. To the north is the wide San Fernando Valley, a largely residential area with several film and TV studios. Tourist Information

Downtown Los Angeles Visitor Information Center

685 South Figueroa Street, between Wilshire Boulevard and Seventh Street Tel: (213) 689 8822. Website: www.discoverlosangeles.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700.
Hollywood Visitor Information Center

6801 Hollywood Boulevard Tel: (323) 467 6412. Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200. Passes
The CityPass (tel: 1 888 330 5008; website: www.citypass.com) allows admission (with a total saving of 50%) to four Hollywood attractions: Starline Movie Star Homes Tours of Hollywood, Red Line Behind-the-Scenes Walking Tours, Hollywood Wax Museum, and a choice of either Kodak Theatre Guided Tour or the Hollywood Museum. It is valid for 30 days from the first use and can be purchased online or from any of the attractions listed. Go LA Card (tel: 617 671 1001 or 866 652 3053; website: www.golosangelescard.com) offers a one to multi-day card for admissions (with a saving of up to 35%) to over 35 attractions. Key Attractions Downtown El Pueblo de Los Angeles (and Olvera Street) The birthplace of Los Angeles, just north of the financial district with its huge skyscrapers, is now a state historic park. In 1781, Father Junipero Serra (founder of many of California's Spanish missions) and Don Felipe de Neve (governor of California) journeyed north from Mexico and established a pueblo here on the site of a former Indian village. Its name, El Pueblo de Nuestra Seora la Reina de Los Angeles de Porciuncula (The Town of Our Lady Queen of the Angels of Porciuncula), outweighed its size and it was soon shortened to Los Angeles. The 27 historic adobe buildings date from the early 19th century and pay tribute to the city's Spanish heritage. They include the Avila Adobe, the city's oldest home; the Old Plaza Church and the Sepulveda House, which now serves as the El Pueblo Visitor Information Center. The heart of the district is Olvera Street, a lively place with strolling mariachi bands, stalls selling Mexican handicrafts and good Mexican restaurants, some still run by the original families. North Alameda and Spring Streets

Tel: (213) 628 1274. Website: www.cityofla.org/ELP Opening hours: daily 1000-2000 (Summer); daily 1000-1900 (Nov-Mar). The visitor centre is open daily 0900-1600. Free admission. Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) Housed in a striking red sandstone building designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, this celebrated art museum showcases the work of leading modern artists. The permanent collection features the likes of Piet Mondrian and Mark Rothko. Pyramid skylights enhance the bright galleries, while the courtyard boasts an attractive fountain. MOCA has a secondary site, located close by and accessible by free shuttle, called Geffen Contemporary, which hosts changing exhibitions in an old warehouse. MOCA's third venue is at the Pacific Design Centre in West Hollywood, which focuses on contemporary architecture and design. California Plaza, 250 South Grand Avenue Tel: (213) 626 6222. Website: www.moca.org Opening hours: Mon, Fri 1100-1700, Tues, Wed closed, Thurs 1100-2000, Sat, Sun 1100-1800. Admission charge, free Thurs 1700-2000. Geffen Contemporary 152 North Central Avenue Tel, website and opening hours as above. Pacific Design Centre 8687 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood Tel and website as above. Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri 1100-1700, Thurs 1100-2000, Sat-Sun 1100-1800. Admission free. Walt Disney Concert Hall The stainless steel ribbon-like exterior of the LA Philharmonic's home shimmers in the sunlight. It took 16 years to construct this US$270 million metal masterpiece, although the work of architect Frank Gehry received mixed reviews. Inside the sleek, 2,265-seat building, though, is one of the world's most highly developed - and acclaimed acoustical systems. Most noteworthy is its huge organ containing 6,134 pipes ranging

from pencil-size to as large as 9.5m (32ft) high. Although there are tours, the best way to experience this sublime hall', is to attend a concert. 111 South Grand Avenue Tel: (323) 850 2000. Website: http://wdch.laphil.com Opening hours for audio tours (do not include auditorium): Most days 1000-1400. Admission charge. Hollywood Grauman's Chinese Theatre and the Hollywood Walk of Fame Built by showman Sid Grauman in 1927, this is the most famous of the flamboyant picture palaces along this stretch of Hollywood Boulevard. As part of the development of the area (see Hollywood and Highland below), the theatre has been extensively renovated; the inside has been opulently restored, while the exotic oriental facade is resplendent in its pastel greens, crowned by a red pagoda roof. The ticket booth has been moved from the forecourt - which remains the main attraction here. It is where the hand and footprints of Hollywood celebrities are embedded into the cement. This signature parade started quite by accident when, at the grand opening, actress Constance Talmadge tripped and stepped in wet cement. Among the more unusual signatures are Jimmy Durante's nose and the hoof prints of Roy Roger's horse Trigger. All kinds of characters hang out at Grauman's; people, just looking to make a couple of bucks, dress like famous characters such as Michael Jackson, Sponge Bob Square Pants, Spiderman, Elmo and Marilyn Monroe. VIP backstage tours take about 35 minutes and include a short film. The cinema still shows first-run movies, another way to see its lavish interior. Other art deco theatres nearby that are worth a look are Pacific El Capitan, The Egyptian and Pantages. The Hollywood Walk of Fame passes outside the front of the Chinese Theatre. This trail of bronze stars embedded in the paving stones runs 5.5km (3.5 miles) along Hollywood Boulevard between La Brea and Gower Streets and along Vine Street between Yucca Street and Sunset Boulevard. It honours artists in the film, television and music industries and the first star imbedded in the pavement in 1960 was one for Joanne Woodward. Today, they number well over 2,000. Grauman's Chinese Theatre 6925 Hollywood Boulevard Tel: (323) 463 9576 for tour times.

Website: www.manntheatres.com/chinese Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (forecourt). Free admission (forecourt); charge for tours. Hollywood and Highland Built around the Chinese Theatre, as part of the plan to revitalise Hollywood Boulevard, this massive retail and entertainment complex, which opened in 2001, is known as Hollywood and Highland because of its location above the Hollywood and Highland subway station. The open-air, five-storey complex includes shops, restaurants, nightclubs, theatres, cinemas, a hotel, a ballroom and the Hollywood Motion Picture Collection. It is also home to the Kodak Theatre, often known as the Academy Awards Theater as it has become the permanent venue for the Oscars ceremony. There's a colourful programme of events from opera to comedy, as well as behind the scenes tours. The complex's observation tower showcases a panoramic view of the famous Hollywood sign. 6801 Hollywood Boulevard Tel: (323) 467 6412. Website: www.hollywoodandhighland.com Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-2200, Sun 1000-1900. Free admission, charge for attractions. Kodak Theatre Tel: (323) 308 6300. Website: www.kodaktheatre.com Opening hours for guided tours: Daily 1030-1600 (Jun-Sep); 1030-1430 (Sep-May). Admission charge. Hollywood History Museum The exquisite, art deco Max Factor Building has been restored to its original 1935 state and now houses the Hollywood History Museum. The cavernous museum features a wide array of exhibits, including costumes and props used in Hollywood films. Visitors can see Marilyn Monroe's autopsy, the whip used by Indiana Jones and even visit Hannibal Lecter's jail cell. Displays begin with the silent film and work their way through Hollywood's Golden Era, to state-of-the-art technology and the future of the industry. Particularly impressive are the special events at the museum, where the presentations on Hollywood history are given by those who actually helped to forge that history. Max Factor Building

1660 North Highland Avenue Tel: (323) 464 7776. Website: www.thehollywoodmuseum.com Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Universal Studios Hollywood Part film and TV studio, part theme park, Universal Studios is one of the most popular attractions in Los Angeles. A behind-the-scenes tram tour of film sets has a simulated flash flood and collapsing bridge, as well as surprise attacks by the shark from Jaws and by King Kong. The Universal Experience allows visitors to experience Universal film productions through interactive exhibits with authentic props. The studio treats guests to working TV and movie sets including Crossing Jordon and CSI: Crime Scene Investigation. With stunt shows, musical entertainment and a variety of thrill rides, such as the Simpsons ride that opened in 2008, it is a lively day of Hollywood at its best. 100 Universal City Plaza Tel: 1 800 8648 37725/UNIVERSAL. Website: www.universalstudios.com Opening hours: Normally daily 1000-1800, with extended hours during peak periods (Easter, summer, Thanksgiving and Christmas). Admission charge. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel This classic 12-storey 305-room hotel is the birthplace of the Academy Awards, as the first Oscars ceremony took place here on 19 May 1929. The oldest continuously operating hotel in Hollywood, the Roosevelt is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places and is a Hollywood Historic Site. Recently restored to its Spanish colonial splendour, it is one of the key attractions on Hollywood Boulevard. Pop in for a cocktail at Teddy's Lounge, if not for a night in the Marilyn Monroe suite for a bit of old Hollywood glamour. 7000 Hollywood Boulevard Tel: (323) 466 7000 or 1 800 950 7667. Website: www.hollywoodroosevelt.com Opening hours: All day. Free admission. The Westside

Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits Smack in the middle of LA, the La Brea Tar Pits are a fascinating survival from prehistoric times. They have yielded more than four million fossils (one of the largest caches in the world) from the Pleistocene Era. Inside the museum are the skeletons of long-extinct animals, such as the imperial mammoth, giant sloth, sabre-toothed tiger and dire wolf. All became trapped and preserved in the thick black tar, or brea', that seeped up through the ground. Visitors can watch palaeontologists cleaning and cataloguing fossils and see excavations from viewing stations beside the tar pits. 5801 Wilshire Boulevard Tel: (323) 934 7243/PAGE. Website: www.tarpits.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat and Sun and holidays 1000-1700. Admission charge, free the first Tuesday of each month. Petersen Car Museum Expect to see some rare and beautiful vehicles, including the hand-made Bugatti. But the real objective of this museum is to underscore the automobile's influence on LA culture. A streetscape, with a surface changing from dirt to gravel to tar, follows the history of the city. Architecture and cars along the street' change with the time period and culminate with the first drive-up strip mall. Don't miss the Hollywood Gallery that features cars used in films and owned by celebrities. 6060 Wilshire Drive (at Fairfax) Tel: (323) 930 2277/CARS. Website: www.petersen.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. Craft and Folk Art Museum This little gem of a museum is often overlooked; the changing exhibits (six to eight per year) in its two galleries feature arts and crafts from around the world. The mission is to shed light on the culture from which these handmade items come. The fascinating, changing exhibitions might explore mythical characters around the world with startling puppet displays, or the notion of personal space through delicate vintage maps. An added bonus is the gift shop - it offers unique crafts from the visiting exhibits. 5814 Wilshire Boulevard

Tel: (323) 937 4230. Website: www.cafam.org Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Fri 1100-1700, Thurs 1000-1900, Sat-Sun 1200-1800. Admission charge, free first Wednesday of the month. Los Angeles County Museum of Art Housed in seven buildings, most of which are clustered around a courtyard, this outstanding collection of art and artefacts (over 100,000) forms one of the leading art museums in the United States. In the enormous Ahmanson Building, art, sculpture and decorative arts from Asia, Europe and the Americas are on display. Highlights of the collection include the Indian and South-East Asian art collection, regarded as the finest in the West; the Western Art galleries and pre-Columbian artefacts from Latin America. There is a special Japanese Pavilion designed by Frank Lloyd Wright; the striking, modern Robert O Anderson Building, and the Bing Theater. The first phase of a ten-year expansion plan was completed in 2008 which saw the opening of the Broad Contemporary Art Museum at LACMA and an open-air pavilion, called the BP Grand Entrance. 5905 Wilshire Boulevard Tel: (323) 857 6000. Website: www.lacma.org Opening hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs 1200-2000, Fri 1200-2100, Sat and Sun 1100-2000. Admission charge; free after 1700 and the second Tues of each month. UCLA Hammer Museum of Art and Cultural Center The main collection at this museum is an impressive display of Old Masters, Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings, which were acquired by the late industrialist Armand Hammer. This collection is shown on a rotating basis and includes works by Constable, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Monet, as well as a room full of lithographs by Daumier. Run by UCLA, the museum also displays exhibitions from the Grunwald Center for the Graphic Arts, which cover graphic art from the Renaissance to the present day. There is also an impressive Sculpture Garden, as well as special exhibitions and programmes. 10899 Wilshire Boulevard Tel: (310) 443 7000. Website: www.hammer.ucla.edu Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1100-1900 (until 2100 on Thurs), Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge, free Thursday.

Getty Center The Getty is much more than just a museum; if you visit, plan to stay the whole day. From the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains, the marble terraces of the Getty Center afford spectacular panoramic views of the city, the mountains and the ocean. The unique buildings, designed by architect Richard Meier, employ simple shapes that form an organic, stunning, whole. They contain not only J Paul Getty's painting collection, including Van Gogh's Irises, but a centre for the study of archaeology, culture, art history and humanities. The changing exhibitions vary from Byzantine art to American photographers. The galleries display sculpture, photographs, drawings, furniture and more than 100 illuminated manuscripts. Lectures, concerts and educational programmes are also held here. The Getty Center is surrounded by beautiful gardens with rare and native plants and trees. The handheld electronic Getty Guide, a selfguided audio tour, is worth the small charge. 1200 Getty Center Drive Tel: (310) 440 7300. Website: www.getty.edu Opening hours: Tues-Fri, Sun 1000-1730 (until 2100 Sat). Free admission, charge for on-site parking (reservations no longer required). Getty Villa Replaced by the Getty Center in 1974, this beautiful structure (modelled after Italy's Villa del Papiri) was originally built to house Getty's personal collection. It is now an antiquities museum with a focus on arts and cultures of ancient Greece, Rome and Etruria. Laid out like a private home, each room is a themed gallery. For example, one room is dedicated to the theatre with Dionysus and the head of Bacchus and another to the Iliad and the Odyssey. There is also an interactive kids' room with materials to reproduce works of art. It is worth the visit just to admire the grounds. 17985 Pacific Coast Highway Tel: (310) 440 7300. Website: www.getty.edu Opening hours: Thurs-Mon 1000-1700. Free admission but advance, timed tickets required, available by telephone or online up to three months in advance. A limited number of same-day offered daily at Getty Center. Parking is charged. Museum of Tolerance

Given a passport' of a Holocaust child, the visitor embarks on a moving journey from the Jewish ghettos to Hitler's death camps. At the end of the hour-long timed tour, the child's ultimate fate is revealed. Though the main focus is on the Holocaust, the museum contains high-tech, interactive exhibits that explore racism and bigotry in America through events such as the LA riots of 1992, while the Tolerancenter focuses on major intolerance issues in daily life. Upstairs are archives and a multimedia learning centre. Allow at least two hours to experience this thought-provoking museum. 9786 West Pico Boulevard Tel: (310) 553 8403 or 1 800 900 9036. Website: www.museumoftolerance.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1730 (close 1500 Fri Nov-Mar), Sun 1000-1700. Last admission two hours before closing time. Admission charge. Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens It is virtually impossible to see everything on this lavish estate in one visit. The former home of railroad tycoon Henry E Huntington is filled with French porcelain, tapestries, American paintings and a remarkable collection of British and French art from the 18th and 19th centuries. Famous highlights are Gainsborough's Blue Boy and Lawrence's Pinkie. Among the 4 million items in the Library are rare books and manuscripts: a Gutenberg Bible, an early 15th-century manuscript of Chaucer's Canterbury Tales and early editions of Shakespeare. Save some time to stroll in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, whose 81 hectares (200 acres) include a Japanese garden, desert garden and rose garden. The 'Garden of Flowing Fragrance' Chinese garden is a real work of art, created to stimulate both the spirit and the mind - like the wonderful Huntingdon itself . 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino Tel: (626) 405 2100. Website: www.huntington.org Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Fri 1200-1630, Sat and Sun 1030-1630. Admission charge. Free first Fri (1030-1630) of every month with advanced tickets only. Norton Simon Museum This renowned collection of European art ranges from the Renaissance to the 20th century. There are works by Rembrandt, Picasso, the Impressionists, a collection of Degas' sculptures, as well as leading works by Rodin. The sculptures from South-East Asia and India, spanning 2000 years, are breathtaking. The garden, inspired by Monet's Giverny is a real oasis, dotted with water features and sculptures.

411 West Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena Tel: (626) 449 6840. Website: www.nortonsimon.org Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1200-1800 (until 2100 Fri). Admission charge. Free first Fri of every month 1800-2100. Mission San Fernando, Rey de Espaa Named after Saint Ferdinand, King of Spain (1217-1252), this mission was founded in 1797. Much of the original structure remains except for the Old Mission Church, which was reconstructed after the 1971 earthquake. Self-guided tours include the church (visited by Pope John Paul in 1987) the museum, workshops, convent and gardens. Towards the rear is the Bob Hope Memorial Garden where the world famous entertainer is buried. 15151 San Fernando Mission Boulevard, Mission Hills Tel: (818) 361 0186. Website: www.californiamissions.com/cahistory/sanfernando.html Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630. Admission charged. Beach Cities Santa Monica With its village feel, long beachfront promenade and wide pedestrianised shopping street, Santa Monica is one of the more visitor-friendly areas of Los Angeles. It is famed for its 5.5km (2.5-mile) beach and the Santa Monica Pier that juts out into the Pacific from a wide sandy beach. Besides the original arcades (now Playland Arcade) and the carousel dating from 1916, there is also the Santa Monica Pier Aquarium, and Pacific Park, an amusement park with rides, a Ferris wheel, a small rollercoaster and a tower ride which rises to 12m (40ft). During the summer, there is dancing and live music on Thursday nights. A good time to go is towards the end of the day as the sunsets can be spectacular, especially at the very western end of Sunset Boulevard. Santa Monica Visitor Center 1920 Main Street Suite B Tel: (310) 393 7593 or 1 800 544 5319. Website: www.santamonica.com Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.

Colorado and Ocean Avenues Tel: (310) 458 8900. Website: www.santamonicapier.org Free admission. Playland Arcade Tel: (310) 451 5133. Website: www.playlandarcade.com Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2400, Fri 1000-0200, Sat 0900-0200. Changes seasonally. Free admission. Santa Monica Pier Aquarium Tel: (310) 393 6149. Website: www.healthebay.org Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1400-1700, Sat and Sun 1230-1700. Admission charge. Pacific Park 380 Santa Monica Pier Tel: (310) 260 8744. Website: www.pacpark.com Opening hours: Hours vary. Check website. Free admission, charge for rides. Venice Beach Further south along the coast is the slightly more bohemian Venice Beach. Its Boardwalk, a path alongside the beach, is one of the liveliest places to view LA locals at their expressive best. Buskers, mime artists, painters, cyclists, palm readers and rollerbladers all mingle here, chilling out, hustling, cruising the sands, wearing colourful attire and often very little at all. There are shops, stalls and cafes for people-watching. The notorious Muscle Beach is where male and female weight lifters pec-flex in the sun. Marine Street to the Venice Pier Tel: (310) 392 4687, ext 6. Website: www.westland.net/venice Marina del Rey

To the south of Venice, 40km (25 miles) from Los Angeles, are the beaches, water sports, bike and walking trails, shopping and restaurants that comprise the heart of this seaside resort town. Most activities centre on its huge man-made marina, the nation's largest and a haven for more than 5,000 pleasure boats. Come here to fish, whale watch, or take a high-speed catamaran, or even a cocktail cruise. 4701 Admiralty Way Tel: (310) 305 9545. Website: www.visitthemarina.com Pasadena Except for New Year's Day, when all eyes turn to the Tournament of Roses Parade and Rose Bowl football game, Pasadena is a quiet place. Nestled at the foot of the San Gabriel Mountains, its tree-lined streets and open-air shopping districts, like Paseo Colorado, Salt Lake Avenue, quaint Old Pasadena and the Norton Simon Museum, make it a lovely place for a stroll. 171 South Los Robles Avenue Tel: (626) 795 9311 or 1 800 307 7977. Website: www.pasadenacal.com Shopping The most famous shopping street in Los Angeles is Rodeo Drive off Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills. Those without hefty bank balances can still go window-shopping at jewellery stores like Harry Winston and Tiffany's or the flagship stores of all the designer names, from Gucci to Tommy Hilfiger. At the end of Rodeo Drive are larger department stores, such as Barney's and Saks. Not far away is the Beverly Center, that continues to be popular with celebrities, and Century City Shopping Center an outdoor shopping plaza; both with branches of Macy's and Bloomingdale's, as well as speciality shops. For eight blocks from Coldwater Canyon to Laurel Canyon, in Studio City, Ventura Boulevard offers concentrated boutique shopping, including home decorating stores and exclusive designer outlets. Stacey Todd sells modern classic home, women's and men's wear to appreciative shoppers. Ventura Boulevard also has an enticing selection of restaurants. Next to the famous Farmers Market (Third and Fairfax Streets) is The Grove. The

upscale centre, with fashionable boutiques and department stores like Barney's and Nordstrom, has its fair share of favourite American high street stores, like Banana Republic and Gap. Westwood Village, adjacent to the UCLA campus, is a low-key shopping center. Its range of inexpensive shops sell practical items such as electronics, books and groceries, as well as clothes. Melrose Avenue, between Highland Avenue and Doheny Drive, is lined with 20th-century antique shops and trendy fashion boutiques like Red Balls at 7365, featured in the opening credits of the TV show Melrose Place. La Brea Avenue, off Melrose Avenue, has more hip boutiques and vintage clothing stores, including the huge American Rag at 150. The Silver Lake area, on the border of Los Feliz and Hollywood (Vermont Avenue and Sunset Boulevard), is dubbed the Soho of LA'. It has stalls and boutiques selling stylish vintage and retro clothing. Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade is a pedestrianised mall that runs for several blocks and is lined with shops and outdoor cafes. At one end is Santa Monica Place, an indoor mall with department stores and boutiques. Fashion shopping can be found nearby on Montana Avenue, between Seventh and 17th Streets. Downtown has various shopping complexes and gallerias, including the highly recommended Grand Central Market on South Broadway, offering a cornucopia of fresh foods, fruits and vegetables. In the Jewelry District (Hill Street between West Fifth and West Seventh Streets), visitors can find good bargains. The Fashion District is a real shopping experience - a 90-block mix of wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers selling discounted merchandise. The kitsch shops along Hollywood Boulevard are best for fun souvenirs. The Hollywood & Highland Center, a shopping and entertainment centre, houses the Kodak Theatre (the Academy Awards venue) and a host of shops. Shopping hours are generally 0900-1800 although malls will close at 2100/2200. Sales tax of 8.25% is not reclaimable.

Mexico City Mini Guide

Settled by the Aztecs in 1345 before being overthrown by the Spanish, Mexico City was founded by the conquistadors on Lake Texcoco in 1525. Today, the capital is known affectionately as 'el DF' (day-effay) by proud locals (from the city's 'Distrito Federal'

status) and is home to a hip, emerging art and gastronomic scene that is drawing a new wave of trendy elite to its fashionable tree-lined neighbourhoods. Though the impression of Mexico City as a smoggy, lawless place continues to dog international tourism efforts, Mexico's chaotic capital city is one of the most vibrant urban spaces in the world. Huge expanses of metropolitan parkland represent the largest on the planet while gorgeous upscale pedestrian-friendly districts are dubbed the Beverly Hills of Mexico. Brightly-painted open-topped barges (trajineras) trawl Mexico City's mysterious ancient canal system past "floating islands" (chinampas) piled high with flowers, fruits and vegetables. With ex-New York City mayor Rudy Guiliani onboard as "crime consultant," crime has halved in the last decade, though Mexico City continues to battle the effects of gangrelated social unrest and like other Latin American nations, the Mexican government is contending with the challenges resulting from a US downturn. And although the city has its foibles, annoyances and frustrations it remains one of the worlds' most exhilarating and exciting metropolitan hubs. For many, the madcap Mexican mentality is symbolised by the iconic el vocho, the capital's beloved ruleflouting, white and green VW Beetle taxi - an analogy that suits the city well.

City Statistics Location: Estado de Mxico, Mexico.

Dialling code: 52. Population: 8.705,100 million (Distrito Federal); 21,503,700 million (Mexico City region). Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 110-120 volts; 60Hz US-style two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 20C (68F). Average July temperatures: 25C (77F).

Annual rainfall: 660mm (25.7 inches).

Sightseeing
Mexico City is an overwhelming sightseeing destination rich in Aztec, colonial and modern art and architecture. Tourists tend to centre on the original Aztec capital of Tenochtitln. At its centre is the Plaza de la Constitucin, or Zcalo, the city's main square and political and religious focus. On two sides of the square are the Palacio Nacional (Presidential Palace), with its fine Diego Rivera murals, and the Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral). Close by, the Templo Mayor (Main Temple) and the adjacent Museo del Templo Mayor are filled with the artefacts unearthed from the site of the Aztec city of Tenochtitln. Leafy Alameda Central park is a popular haunt with Mexican families at weekends. At one end is the impressive Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), an arts centre housing some of the greatest works by Mexico's muralists and a must-see for its art deco interior. Modern skyscrapers and hotels flank Paseo de la Reforma, the handsome street that runs from the Centro Histrico to the Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Park). On the way is La Zona Rosa (Pink Zone), a lively neighbourhood popular for shopping, dining and nightlife. Chapultepec Park is the city's largest park and home to many fine museums, including the Museo Nacional de Antropologa (Museum of Anthropology), one of the most impressive museums of its kind in the world. Two southern suburbs, Coyoacn and San Angel, formerly separate villages, have a colonial charm and merit a visit for their markets, museums and memories of their famous residents: Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. El Bazar del Sabado (Saturday market) in San Angel offers paintings and quality crafts, while the main square in Coyoacn hosts a colourful market every weekend accompanied by bands of musicians together with jugglers, street magicians and face-painters. To venture further afield, the volcanoes Ixtaccihuatl and the very active Popocatepetl can be visited as a day trip as can the ancient ruins of Tula and Teotihuacan. Mexico City's museums are closed on Monday, as is the Chapultepec Park. Free admission to museums each Sunday ensures day-long big crowds and long queues. Tourist Information

Oficina de Turismo de la Ciudad de Mxico Londres 54, corner of Amberes, La Zona Rosa Tel: (55) 5208 1030. Website: www.mexicocity.gob.mx Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. SECTUR (National Tourism Ministry) Avenida Presidente Masaryrk 172, corner of Hegel, in Polanco Tel: (55) 3002 6300 or 1 800 903 9200 (24-hour help and information). Website: www.sectur.gob.mx Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 1000-1500. Key Attractions Centro Histrico (Historic Centre) Second in size only to the Moscow's Red Square, the Zcalo (Plaza de la Constitucin) is Mexico's political, religious and geographical core. Eerily quiet after dark, it is animated, crowded and alive during daylight hours as the venue for official ceremonies, city celebrations, demonstrations, rallies, impromptu performances and artisans plying their wares. Twice-daily, a ceremonial flag raising and lowering (at 0600 and 1800) are staged with clock-setting punctuality. On the north side of the Zcalo is the Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral). Built in 1573, consecrated in 1667, and completed in 1813 in a baroque style known as churrigueresque, it is the largest and oldest cathedral in Latin America. Next to the cathedral, the ruins of the Templo Mayor (Main Temple) gather crowds of onlookers on a daily basis with a museum that displays various artefacts found in the main pyramid of Aztec Tenochtitln. Rediscovered in 1978 while telephone cables were being laid in the area, the temple was first constructed by the Aztecs in 1375. A new temple was built every 52 years - one on top of the other. Seven have been identified in the Zcalo. Housing the Federal Treasury, the National Archives and, until recent years, the offices of the President of Mexico, the Palacio Nacional (Presidential Palace) occupies the whole eastern side of the Zcalo. Colourful murals by Diego Rivera adorn a lavish interior with the Mxico a Travs de los Siglos (Mexico Through the Centuries) a glorious highlight, depicting every major event and personality of Mexican history, from Corts' conquest of the Aztecs to the Mexican Revolution.

A few blocks west of Zcalo, the early 20th-century Museo Nacional de Arte (National Art Museum) is a fine Italian Renaissance style palace. It houses an exhaustive collection of Mexican art from every school and style. Templo Mayor Plaza de la Constitucin Tel: (55) 5542 0606 or 4784. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission charge, free on Sun. Palacio Nacional Plaza de la Constitucin Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700. Free admission; identification required for entry. Museo de Arte Moderno Tacuba 8 Tel: (55) 5510 2999. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1730. Free admission. Alameda Central Originally an Aztec marketplace, the Alameda Central has a dark past as the former site of executions during the Spanish Inquisition. Today, this pleasant green space is Mexico City's largest central park and a popular gathering point for office workers, food vendors, shoppers and hawkers plying their wares to passersby. Crowds swell each Sunday when families descend in droves for picnics and open-air concerts. Nearby, a huge mural painted in 1947 depicts the park in summer at the Museo Mural Diego Rivera, where the artist's Sueo de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park) takes pride of place. At the eastern end of the Alameda, the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) is housed in a sumptuous, white-marble concert hall of considerable grandeur. Containing a museum and theatre within its art deco interior, the building was built to mark the 1910 centennial celebration of Mexican independence. A fine collection of old and contemporary paintings, sculptures and handicrafts is housed on the second and third floors including powerful works by the great Mexican muralists Diego Rivera, Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros and Rufino Tamayo. Operas and orchestral concerts are frequently performed in the theatre where a glass curtain boasts a Tiffany design.

Opposite the Palacio is the Torre Latinoamericana (Latin American Tower), a landmark skyscraper built in the 1950s. After surviving an earthquake in 1957, it was awarded the American Association of Construction and Engineering Prize and inaugurated as a member of the World Federation of Great Towers. For resplendent views head to the 43rd-floor viewing platform at 2422m (7950ft) above sea level - on a clear day it affords unbeatable panoramas across the city, the Valley of Mexico and the distant volcanoes beyond. Museo Mural Diego Rivera Plaza Solidaridad, corner of Balderas and Coln Tel: (55) 5512 0754. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge, free on Sun. Palacio de Bellas Artes Avenida Jurez, corner of Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas Tel: (55) 5512 2593. Website: www.bellasartes.gob.mx Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (museum). Admission charge, free on Sun. Torre Latinoamericana Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas, corner of Avenida Madero Tel: (55) 5752 2887. Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200. Admission charge. Paseo de la Reforma Dubbed the Champs Elyses because of its Parisian-style architectural influences, the Paseo de la Reforma is Mexico City's main boulevard and most prestigious address. Running from Alameda to Chapultepec Park (see below), it is lined with shops, offices, hotels, restaurants and some modern skyscrapers that are home to multinational corporations, financial institutions and foreign embassies. Monuments, fountains and statues of Mexican heroes also hem the route, built as a direct path for the Emperor Maximilian between the Centro Histrico and his palace in Chapultepec Park. Particularly worthy of note is El Monumento a los Heroes de la Independencia (Monument to Independence), or Angelito as it is affectionately known, a gilded statue of a winged Victory set atop a 46m-high (150ft) column. In 1956, the statue toppled to the ground

in an earthquake, but was completely restored, much to the relief of the Mexican people. Displayed inside the monument is the skull of Hidalgo, the executed leader of a group of rebels who rose against the Spanish in October 1810 (open daily, 0900-1700, no charge). To the south of the Paseo, bounded by Reforma, Sevilla, Avenida Chapultepec and Avenida Insurgentes Sur, is La Zona Rosa (Pink Zone), a busy shopping and entertainment district with many stores, restaurants and nightclubs. Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Park) Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City's largest park, is encircled by a huge centuries-old forest and contains lakes, the presidential residences, several of the city's finest museums, an amusement park and a zoo. Legend has it the wood served as a refuge for Toltec and Aztec kings during times of trouble. Today the park attracts thousands of visitors especially on Sundays when families come to relax and picnic. Attractions are split into a trio of distinct areas with the primera seccin (first section), on Paseo de la Reforma; the segunda seccin (second section) occupied by La Feria (Amusement Park), and the tercera seccin (third section) by Atlantis, a marine park with dolphin and seal shows and an aquarium. On Chapultepec Hill (meaning Hill of Grasshoppers' in the Aztec language Nahuatl), the Castillo de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Castle) was built in 1785 for the Spanish viceroys and used as a residence for Mexico's presidents until 1940. As the home of the Museo Nacional de Historia (National History Museum) it contains hundreds of paintings, murals, ceramics, furniture and carriages depicting Mexican history from the Aztec era to the modern day. Rooms once used by Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlotta have been beautifully preserved with the castle's balconies affording fine views over the Valley of Mexico. A road-train climbs the hill from inside the entrance to the park. Permanent exhibitions of Mexican contemporary art displayed at the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art) featuring Rivera, Siqueiros, O'Gorman, Rufino Tamayo, Frida Kahlo and Dr Atl - to name but a few. Other highlights include temporary exhibits of international artists together with a delightful sculpture garden in the grounds. The city's Parque Zoolgico de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Zoological Park) was the birthplace of the first panda born in captivity while the modern Museo Rufino Tamayo contains permanent exhibits of work by contemporary Mexican and international painters, donated by Tamayo and his wife. Chapultepec Park

Tel: (55) 5553 6224. Opening hours: Daily 0500-1700, closed Monday. Free admission. Chapultepec Castle and the Museo Nacional de Historia Tel: (55) 5553 6224. Opening times: Tues-Sun 0900-1700. Admission charge. La Feria Tel: (55) 5230 2121. Website: www.feriachapultepec.com.mx Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1900, Sat-Sun 1000-2000. Admission charge. Atlantis Tel: (55) 5271 8618. Website: www.parqueatlantis.com.mx Opening hours: Sat-Sun and public holidays only, 1000-1730. Admission charge. Museo de Arte Moderno Tel: (55) 5553 6233. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1730. Admission: Charge. Parque Zoolgico de Chapultepec Tel: (55) 5553 6229 or 6263. Website: www.chapultepec.df.gob.mx Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1600. Admission: Free. Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporaneo Tel: (55) 5286 6519 or 6529. Website: www.museotamayo.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission: Charge but free on Sun. Museo Nacional de Antropologa

(National Anthropology Museum) Arguably Mexico's City's finest museum, the Museo Nacional de Antropologa (National Anthropology Museum) is also one of the best of its kind in the world. Huge collections span vast themes in a giant building centred on an expansive patio. Though housed in an extension of Chapultepec Park, it can take days to fully explore. Each major culture that played a role in the evolution of a Mesoamerican civilisation is represented. Some of the most fascinating exhibits are the famous Aztec sun' (or calendar') stones, the giant stone Olmec heads from Tabasco and a replica of a Mayan tomb from Palenque. On the upper level, the rooms are dedicated to how modern Mexico's indigenous people live. Daily performances staged outside of the museum's main entrance are publicised by voladores (fliers) - most re-enact ancient ceremonies in colourful, traditional costumes and involve daring acrobatics using suspended flying'. Paseo de la Reforma (north of Chapultepec Park) Tel: (55) 5553 6381. Website: www.mna.inah.gob.mx Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 0900-1800. Admission charge, free on Sun. Coyoacn Now absorbed by Mexico City, the suburb of Coyoacn was once a city in its own right. Today, it forms the oldest part of the capital as the place from which Corts launched his attack on Tenochtitln. Tranquil tree-lined avenues are trimmed with handsome colonial-era buildings and strings of craft stalls. Jugglers, street musicians and mime artists centre on the central squares of Plaza Hidalgo and Jardn del Centenario at weekends and lend a bohemian feel. Artist Frida Kahlo was born in Coyacn in 1907 and the Museo Casa de Frida Kahlo occupies her family home. Kahlo and her husband, the revolutionary muralist Diego Rivera, lived here from 1929 and formed part of Mexico City's glamorous, leftist, 1930s intellectual set. Today the house is full of mementoes from this era with two rooms preserved as lived in and the rest crammed with paintings by both artists. A small collection of folk art - a passion of Kahlo's - includes a number of regional costumes worn by the artist who lived in the property until her death. Dark, sombre and stark, the Museo Casa de Len Trotsky (Leon Trotsky Museum) is housed in the building where the Russian revolutionary spent the last four years of his life. Very little has changed in the house since 1940, when Trotsky was murdered in his study with an ice pick by an assassin sent by the KGB. The living room wall remains

pockmarked with bullet holes - a reminder of a previous failed assassination attempt. Trotsky's ashes are interred in a tomb in the garden. Museo Casa de Frida Kahlo Londres 247 (corner of Allende), Coyoacn Tel: (55) 5554 5999. Website: www.museofridakahlo.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge, free on Sun. Museo Casa de Len Trotsky Avenida Ro Churubusco 410, between Gmez Faras and Morelos Tel: (55) 5658 8732. Website: http://museocasadeleontrotsky.blogspot.com Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge, free on Sun. San Angel This elegant, colonial neighbourhood is about 9km (6 miles) south of Paseo de la Reforma and is best known for its weekly arts and crafts market and affluent residents. Key attractions include the Bazar Sbado (Saturday Bazaar), in Plaza San Jacinto, together with the avant-garde Museo Estudio Diego Rivera (Diego Rivera's Studio Museum), where Rivera and his wife Frida Kahlo worked in the 1930s. Fine art can be found in abundance at El Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Carrillo Gil (Carillo Gil Contemporary Art Museum) with works by Mexican and international artists. Museo Estudio Diego Rivera Diego Rivera 2 (corner of Altavista) Tel: (55) 5550 1518. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge, free on Sun. El Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Carrillo Gil Avenida Revolucin 1608 Tel: (55) 5550 3983. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge, free on Sun. Shopping

Mexico City has everything from upmarket department stores and trendy boutiques to malls, markets and street hawkers. Fixed prices prevail in the upmarket shops and department stores, but it is commonplace to haggle in the markets. Favourite shopping areas include the Centro Histrico, La Zona Rosa and in recent years Polanco. The largest department stores are Sanborns, Liverpool and Palacio de Hierro. The original stores are in the Centro Histrico but all have branches in suburban shopping malls. Particularly interesting is the Casa de Azulejos (House of Tiles), between Avenida Cinco de Mayo and Avenida Madero, a beautiful building, dating from 1596 and covered in handmade blue and white tiles. On the inside, it sports a mural by Orozco and a Sanborns department store and restaurant. Centro Santa Fe, Vasco de Quiroga 3800, in the western part of the city, is the largest shopping centre in Latin America and boasts nearly 300 shops, with department stores, boutiques, restaurants, play areas for children and 10 cinemas, although there is no metro nearby. On the southern edge of the city, the upscale Perisur shopping mall on Perifrico Sur boasts lots of family attractions and is famous for its elaborate Christmas displays of life-sized polar bears, nativity scenes and light shows. There are a number of markets selling Mexican artesanas (handicrafts). The Bazar Sbado (Saturday Bazaar), Plaza San Jacinto 11, in San Angel, is a showcase for some of Mexico's finest handicrafts, although prices are high. The National Fund for the Development of Arts and Crafts (Fonart), with outlets at Avenida Patriotismo 691, Avenida Paseo de la Reforma 116 and Avenida Juarez 89, is a government initiative to preserve folk art traditions among indigenous peoples. All of the work, from colourful hand-painted crockery to innovative blown glass, is made by regional artisans in poor communities. Artisans display their crafts every Saturday 1000-1900. Mercado de Curiosidades Mexicanos San Juan (San Juan Market of Mexican Curiosities), at Ayuntamiento and Dolores in the Centro Histrico, is a handicraft venue open Monday to Saturday 09001900 and Sunday 0900-1600. Nearby, the Mercado la Ciudadela, on the corner of Balderas and Dond, is a covered market with a wide variety of artesana from all over Mexico. Prices are fair but expect to bargain; open daily 1030-1830. For more unusual fare, the national pawnshop, the Monte de Piedad (Mountain of Compassion), Avenida Cinco de Mayo, opposite the Catedral Metropolitana, is also worth a look. It was opened in 1775 as a charitable organisation and still helps finance school construction and retirement homes with its profits.

Shop opening hours are generally 0900/1000-2000/2100. The larger department stores remain open late into the evening. Smaller stores often close between 1400 and 1600, then reopen until 2000. Mexico City adds VAT (Value Added Tax) at 15%, which cannot be claimed back by visitors.

ROME MINI GUIDE Situated on the River Tiber, between the Apennine Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Eternal City' of Rome (Roma) was once the administrative centre of the mighty Roman Empire, governing a vast region that stretched from Britain to Mesopotamia. Today, it remains the seat of the Italian government and home to numerous ministerial offices but is superseded by Milan, in the industrial north, for business and finance. The legendary beginnings of Rome are related in the tale of Romulus and Remus. Princess Rhea Silvia, ravished by Mars (the God of War), gave birth to the twins and abandoned them to fate. The River Tiber carried them to the Palatine Hill, where a she-wolf mothered the babes until their discovery by a shepherd. Romulus later killed Remus, before going on to found Rome in the marshy lowlands of seven hills. The anniversary of Rome's foundation (21 April 753BC) is now marked by a public holiday. The historians' version is no less astonishing. It traces the rise of the city from unimportant pastoral settlement (the earliest remains date back to the ninth century BC) to vast empire, ruled over by a string of emperors. Rome saw a second period of development during the 15th-century Renaissance, when the Papacy took up permanent residence in the city. Although Rome's power has since waned, the city remains the essence of European civilisation. Ruins dating from Rome's glory days lie within an area known as Roma Antica (Ancient Rome) and include the monumental Colosseum and the Foro Romano (Roman Forum) - a crumbling legacy of pagan temples, broken marble and triumphal arches. Buildings from the Renaissance period are concentrated within the centro storico (historic centre), situated between Via del Corso and the Tevere (River Tiber). Here, a labyrinth of narrow, winding, cobbled side streets opens out onto magnificent piazzas presided over by baroque churches, regal palaces and exquisite fountains. The romantic Piazza Navona with Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers, Piazza di Spagna and the sweeping Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain immortalised by Fellini's La Dolce Vita (1959), all lie within walking distance of each other. Modern life continues amid this theatre of breathtaking monuments, as thousands of years of history are animated by more recent innovations sophisticated boutiques, rowdy pizzerias and a merry-go-round of cars, buses and mopeds. Across the river, to the west, lies the Vatican State - home to the Pope and spiritual centre of the Roman Catholic Church. South of the Vatican, one finds

the bohemian quarter of Trastevere, packed with trattorie and small wine bars. Further south still is the Testaccio district, renowned for nightclubs and live music. With the opening of various venues dedicated to jazz and cinema and the inauguration of the first ever International Film Festival in October 2006, Rome has seen exponential cultural growth recently, The Imperial Fora are being revamped and will shortly welcome a new museum, while two modern art museums are being built (the MAXXI) or due to open in 2007 (the MACRO) (see Key Attractions). Tourism is a major source of income and visitors come and go throughout the year. The city is blessed with a warm Mediterranean climate, making Rome particularly pleasant to visit in autumn and spring. In August, it is hot and sticky and most of the locals head for the coast - many shops and bars close for the summer break and the streets are strangely empty save for visitors. City Statistics Location: Lazio region, western central Italy. Dialling code: 39. Population: 2,817,000 (2005). Time zone: GMT +1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 8C (46F). Average July temperatures: 28C (82F). Annual rainfall: 760mm (30 inches). Sightseeing There is simply too much to see in Rome - the Vatican City alone can easily swallow up an entire weekend. Most visitors are overwhelmed and remain torn between running from sight to sight in order to do' everything or lingering over a couple of monuments and museums. The latter option is strongly recommended - even then, it is best to punctuate cultural trips with ice creams, coffees and serene walks in the city's parks (the Villa Borghese is one of the loveliest). As for most holy sites, clothing that covers up midriffs, shoulders and legs is advised, particularly for the Vatican. The Palatine Hill is the obvious starting point. Rome was founded here and it soon became the seat of political and religious power. During the Renaissance it was beautified and crowned with the Michelangelo-designed Piazza Campidoglio. To its right stands the stark-white sprawling Vittoriano monument celebrating the first king of united Italy, behind it lies the Roman Forum and Imperial Fora. The ancient world is linked with the modern in the space of a short walk. Next on your itinerary is the centro storico (historic centre), which boasts the greatest concentration of classical and Christian sites enclosed in a relatively

small space. Stumbling upon ancient frescoes, Renaissance fountains and beautiful piazzas are part of the pleasures of wandering around Rome's streets. Rome has over 400 churches and four major basilicas - St Peter's, St John Lateran, St Mary Major and St Paul's. However, it is San Clemente (on Via San Giovanni in Laterano) which encapsulates the multi-layered labyrinth of Rome. At street level, there is a 12th-century basilica with beautiful mosaics. Down one level is a well-preserved Roman basilica. Deeper still are more ancient Roman remains, until finally, at the deepest level, is the temple to the oriental cult of Mithras. Tourist Information Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma (APT) Via Parigi 5 Tel: (06) 488 991 or 8205 9127. Website: www.romaturismo.com Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900. Other APT branches are at Termini Station (opposite platform 4, open daily 0800-2100) and Fiumicino Airport (Terminal B Arrivals, open daily 0800-1900 and look out for the other green tourist information kiosks dotted around the city near all the major tourist sites (open daily 0930-1930) such as near the Vatican (in Piazza Pia), off Piazza Navona (in Piazza Cinque Lune) and near the Imperial Fora (in Piazza del Tempio della Pace). Passes The Rome tourist board recently brought out the Roma Pass. For a reasonable price it includes free access to all state and city museums, reductions on many cultural events and a three-day transport pass. Buy it from any tourist information point, museum or the Ottaviano or Anagnina metro stations. There are also two interesting museum passes available, the Museo Nazionale Romano combined ticket and the Roma Archeologia Card (website: www.pierreci.it). The first allows entrance to the National Roman Museum's four sites - Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps, Baths of Diocletian and Crypta Balbi; the second allows entrance to those sites plus the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Baths of Caracalla, the tomb of Cecilia Metella and Villa dei Quintilli. The passes are valid for three and seven days respectively from the first day of use. They can be purchased at any of the participating monuments or museums. Key Attractions Foro Romano (Roman Forum) and Palatino (Palatine) The Roman Forum is now a heap of marble fragments, columns and floor layouts. A leap of imagination is required to recreate the former market place that was the political, commercial and social heart of ancient Rome and the symbolic centre of an Empire stretching to Greece, Sicily and Carthage. Fire, barbarians and pillaging builders in medieval and Renaissance times contributed to the Forum's present state of disrepair, but the Forum was only revealed during the excavation work of the 19th century. A bird's-eye view is gained from behind Piazza del Campidoglio, while a closer look can be had

from along Via Sacra, which runs through the heart of the Forum. Among the best preserved and most fascinating monuments are the AD203 triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus (built to celebrate victory over the Parthinians) and the remains of Caesar's rostra, from where his great speeches were declaimed. Another stunning feature is the former atrium of the House of the Vestal Virgins and the adjacent Temple of Vesta, a circular building where the vestal virgins were entrusted in keeping the eternal flame alight. Just up from the Arch of Titus in the Forum is the Palatine where the palaces of the Roman emperors stood. Piazza di Santa Maria Nova 53 (off Via dei Fori Imperiali) Tel: (06) 699 0110 or 8205 9127. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1915 (summer); daily 0830-1630 (winter), last entry one hour before closing time. Free admission for Foro Romano; charge for Palatine and Palatine Museum. Ticket includes entry to the Colosseum (go here first to avoid long queues). Mercati e Foro di Traiano (Trajan's Forum and Trajan's Markets) Inaugurated in AD112-113, Trajan's Forum was the last built and most impressive of the Fora. The complex contained a main square, a basilica and two libraries, and was completed by the markets of the same name, a sort of Roman, and remarkably well-preserved, equivalent of a shopping mall. The markets contained about 150 small shops spread over six storeys. Trajan's column (which stands 38m/125ft high) is widely regarded as one of the greatest works of Roman art, and was probably located between the two libraries on a base containing the burial urns of the Emperor and his wife. Its beautifully carved reliefs tell the tale of Trajan's war campaigns in Dacia (now Romania). On the top of the column stood a statue of the emperor. This was removed by Pope Sixtus V in 1585 and replaced with a statue of St Peter made to face the direction of the basilica dedicated to the saint that was being built at the time. The Imperial Fora (the forums of Caesar, August, Nerva and Vespasian) can be seen from the Via dei Fori Imperiali for free. Via IV Novembre 94 Tel: (06) 679 0048. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1900 (summer); Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (winter), last entry one hour before closing time. Admission charge. Please note: The site is currently being restored so until it reopens the entrance is at Piazza Madonna di Loreto and open Tues-Sun 09001400. Colosseo (Colosseum) Near to Via Sacra and the fourth-century Arco di Costantino (Arch of Constantine) lies the gigantic oval of the Colosseum - 186m (620ft) long, 153m (510ft) wide and about 47m (157ft) high. Emperor Vespasian began construction in AD72 and work was completed eight years later by his son Titus. It was the scene for entertainment that one can hardly comprehend gladiatorial conquests between men, lions and wild beasts, with death guaranteed. The games' were finally outlawed in the fifth century. The stadium has been pillaged over the centuries and rocked by earthquakes. Today, only its skeletal framework remains, with the winding passages used to

force animals up to the battlefield of the arena, formerly underground, now exposed. Piazza del Colosseo Tel: (06) 3996 7700. Website: www.pierreci.it Opening hours: Daily 0830-1915 (summer); daily 0830-1630 (winter), last entry one hour before closing time. Admission charge (ticket also allows entry to the Palatine). Pantheon The best-preserved and most beautifully proportioned of Rome's ancient monuments, the Pantheon has become an emblem of the city. Built by Hadrian between AD119 and AD128 as a temple to the gods, the Pantheon was converted to a Christian church in AD608 - the key to its miraculous survival. The radius of the dome is exactly equivalent to the height and a 9m (30ft) hole, known as the oculus, in the dome's centre allows light (and rain) into the building. Statues of the deities would once have decorated the interior. Now the focal point of interest is the tomb of Raphael. Most astonishing of all are the large brass doors, which belonged to the original Roman building. Piazza della Rotonda Tel: (06) 6830 0230. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1930, Sun 0900-1800; public holidays 09001300. Free admission. Cappella Sistina & Musei Vaticani (Sistine Chapel & Vatican Museums) An awe-inspiring glimpse of Michelangelo's depiction of The Creation is worth the queues and crowds that go hand-in-hand with a visit to the Vatican City. Michelangelo grudgingly accepted Julius II's commission to paint frescoes on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel - built as a private chapel of the popes between 1475 and 1480. Work began in May 1508, the frescoes were unveiled in August 1511, and completed in October 1512. Twenty-one years later, a reluctant Michelangelo painted the Last Judgement on the wall behind the altar, adding his own aged face below the figure of Christ. Pope Pius IV was scandalised by the display of nudity and the offending genitalia had to be concealed by hastily painted loincloths - most have been removed during restoration work. In fact, the latest restoration of the Old Testament scenes has caused great controversy. Although eclipsed by Michelangelo's artistry, the Renaissance paintings that line the walls are fine works, created by the masters - including Michelangelo's own teacher, Ghirlandaio. The Vatican Museums alone could easily eat up a day or two of a trip to Rome. Highlights include the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael's Rooms), the Etruscan Museum (depicting Italy before the Romans) and the Pio-Clementino Museum containing the world's largest collection of Classical statues. Viale Vaticano 100 Tel: (06) 6988 4947. Website: www.vatican.va

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0845-1645 with last entry at 1520, Sat 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220 (Early Mar-Oct); Mon-Sat 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220 (Nov-early Mar); last Sun of month 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220. Admission charge, free last Sun of the month. Basilica di San Pietro (St Peter's Basilica) St Peter's Basilica lies above a former shrine, which is said to mark the burial ground of the saint. Pope Julius II pulled down the original structure (despite its venerable age of 1,000 years) in 1506 (with his architect Bramante in tow) in order to build a shiny new basilica. Construction lasted 120 years, during which time a team of architects and artists (including Alberti, Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Sangallo the Younger and Michelangelo) struggled over this enormous edifice. Michelangelo was responsible for the huge dome and supporting drum but died in 1564, before work was finally completed in 1590. The basilica's interior is an unashamed display of the power of the Church. Amid the grandeur (in the first chapel on the right) lies Michelangelo's Piet (1498/9). Arnolfo da Cambio's bronze statue of St Peter (1296), in the central aisle, has become famed for its foot worn to a nub by pilgrims' kisses. Bernini's Throne of St Peter (1665), above the papal altar (made with bronze purloined from the Pantheon on the Pope's orders) dominates the far end of the nave. Optional extras include a trip (via lift or stairs) into the dome, the Vatican Gardens (pre-booked guided tours only), and the Vatican Grottoes, containing papal tombs (opening hours are the same as those for the basilica, and admission is free). Access to the Necropolis below the grottoes (the legendary site of St Peter's remains) is allowed with written permission only. Piazza San Pietro Tel: (06) 6988 1662. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900 (Apr-Oct); daily 0700-1800 (Nov-Mar). Free admission.

St Peter's Dome Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800 (summer); daily 0800-1700 (winter), last entry 15 minutes before closing time. Admission charge. Necropolis Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. Only small, pre-arranged groups may enter. Applications should be made in writing to the Ufficio Scavi, Fabbrica di San Pietro, 00120 Citt del Vaticano (tel: (06) 6988 5318) several days prior to visit. Admission charge. Vatican Gardens/Vatican Guided Tours Office Tel: (06) 6988 4676. Organised tours take place on Thur and Sat at 1100 from Mar-Oct and Sat at 1100 from Nov-Feb and can be booked several days in advance. Admission charge.
Musei Capitolini (Capitoline Museums) The oldest public collection in the world, the Capitoline Museums are made up

of two separate buildings: the Palazzo dei Conservatori houses ancient and baroque sculptures by the likes of Gianlorenzo Bernini on the first floor (and a newly built section displays to great effect the original of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, a copy of which stands in the middle of the Piazza del Campidoglio) and Renaissance and baroque art by Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio on the second floor; the Palazzo Nuovo houses the country's most important collection of Roman sculpture. Entry is through the Palazzo dei Conservatori. Piazza del Campidoglio 1 Tel: (06) 8205 9127. Website: www.museicapitolini.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-2000, last entry at 1900. Admission charge. Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) A string of legends surround the Trevi Fountain, which is situated amid the labyrinthine streets off Via del Tritone. It is said that a virgin came across a three-way (tre-vie) spring, causing the original fountain to be built. More recently, the far-from-virginal Anita Ekberg immortalised the fountain in the famous scene of Fellini's La Dolce Vita (1959). According to myth, a coin cast in these waters will ensure a return visit to Rome. The baroque extravaganza was designed by Nicol Salvi for Pope Clement XII and completed in 1762. The statues (representing Abundance, Agrippa, Salubrity, the Virgin and Neptune guiding a chariot drawn by sea horses) appear as a cast of characters performing a melodrama, with a Renaissance palace for their backdrop and craggy rocks in the foreground. Try and come here early in the morning or late at night to avoid the ubiquitous throngs of tourists. Piazza di Trevi Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. The Spanish Steps and Keats-Shelley Memorial House The Piazza di Spagna district is little changed from 18th-century prints depicting the area - and is still dominated by the elegant double steps known as the Spanish Steps. These were designed in 1723-26 by Francesco de Sanctis to link Via del Babuino with Via Felice - the first great street planned by Sixtus V (1585-90). Reminiscent of the grand ascent to the Sacr Coeur in Paris, the steps lead up to the 16th-century Trinit dei Monti. From here, spectacular views over the city rooftops more than warrant the steep climb. The Spanish Steps acquired their name from the neighbouring Spanish embassy but the area is more intimately associated with England - even becoming known to the rather provincial Romans as er ghetto de l'Inglesi (English Ghetto). The tourists on the Grand Tour of the 18th and 19th centuries (including Keats, Shelley, Byron and the Brownings) helped to establish the district's reputation as a cosmopolitan artistic quarter. At the foot of the steps lies the boat-shaped Barcaccia fountain, designed in 1627 by Bernini. To the right stands the modest Keats-Shelley Memorial House, where 25-year-old John Keats died of tuberculosis in 1821. Exhibits include pictures and prints, private letters, an urn bearing Shelley's ashes and a lock of Keats' tawny red hair. It is essential to book in advance.

Keats-Shelley Memorial House Piazza di Spagna 26 Tel: (06) 678 4235. Website: www.keats-shelley-house.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1300 and 1500-1800, Sat 1100-1400 and 15001800. Admission charge.
Piazza Navona This dramatic piazza, lined with cafs and restaurants, lies at the heart of the centro storico (historic centre). Its oval shape follows the form of the former stadium, built in AD86 by Emperor Domitian. During the Renaissance, the site was flooded to stage mock naval battles. The piazza gained its current form in the mid-17th century, when Pope Innocent X commissioned Borromini to design the Church of Sant'Agnese. In front of the church Bernini built the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), adorned with powerful figures representing the four great rivers (the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges and the Rio de la Plata or River Plate) which in turn represented the four areas of the world known in Borromini's time (Africa, Europe, Asia and America respectively). Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Villa & Galleria Borghese Just to the east of the Spanish Steps lies green relief from sightseeing - the sculpture-scattered gardens landscaped in the 17th century for Cardinal Scipione Borghese (nephew of Pope Paul V). This area includes the city zoo (website: www.bioparco.it), Piazza di Siena horse-jumping arena, mock ancient temples, imitation medieval castles and an artificial lake. The pull of culture will definitely be strong enough to lure the resting visitor into the Casino Borghese, a treasure trove of sculpture and antiquities, the Museo Nazionale Etrusco (National Etruscan Museum) in nearby Villa Giulia, with its remarkable sarcophagus of the reclining Bride and Bridegroom' from Cerveteri, or the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna (National Gallery of Modern Art) featuring Italian art of the 19th and 20th centuries housed in a massive neo-classical palazzo built in 1912. Lesser-known venues that are still of great interest include the modern art museum Carlo Bilotti (website: www.museocarlobilotti.it); a delightful and minute children's cinema Cinema dei Piccoli (website: www.cinemadeipiccoli.it); the Casa del Cinema (website: www.casadelcinema.it); the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre (website: www.globetheatreroma.com), which puts on plays in summer and features some original-language productions; a puppet theatre and ludoteca (games centre). A new pass, called Villa Borghese Card, offers reductions and free entrance to special events in this multi-faceted park. However, the Galleria Borghese (home to Bernini's most famous work, Apollo and Daphne) should be seen first (ticket reservation is obligatory and visitors are only admitted every two hours). Website: www.villaborghese.itGalleria Borghese

Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5 Tel: (06) 328 101. Website: www.galleriaborghese.it Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1930, last entry at 1700. Admission charge.

Villa Giulia Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9 Tel: (06) 320 0562. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1930, last entry at 1830. Admission charge.
Shopping Romans concur with Parisians that it is better to be chic than shocking. Consequently, Rome's shops are full of (often expensive and almost identical) fine clothes, leathers, shoes and bags. In winter, real fur is still de rigeur among the older generations. The smart designer shops, where sales assistants can be snooty and price tags discreetly absent, are concentrated in the network of streets spanning out from the Spanish Steps. Of these, Via Condotti has most of the big names: Gucci, Max Mara, Valentino, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bruno Magli and Giorgio Armani. Bulgari, number 10, displays glitteringly expensive watches, while Damiani, number 84, stocks alarmingly costly jewellery. Nearby in Piazza di Spagna, Dolce & Gabbana offers slightly more entertaining but equally expensive gear. Fendi has taken over the whole of 19th-century Palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi on Largo Goldoni and filled it with travertine marble and an endless array of furs, shoes, bags and its ready-to-wear collection. Other big names here are Gianni Versace, Moschino, Tod's, Gianfranco Ferr, and locally born and bred Queen of Cashmere' Laura Biagiotti. In the same area, the TAD conceptstore, Via Babuino 155A, specialises in ethnic-chic', with departments ranging from furniture to flowers and clothing to music. There is also a hairdresser's and a cafe. On neighbouring Via Frattina, number 23, the glorious Pineider stocks upmarket stationery and desk equipment. Just off Campo de' Fiori, Via dei Giubbonari teems with hip shops and a range of accessible labels (check out colourful Roman designer Angelo di Nepi here). You can find affordable buys in the high-street shops lining Via del Corso, Via del Tritone, Via Nazionale and Via Cola di Rienzo. Alternatively, you can snap up bargains in the January and July sales or at one of the two large and garish outlets a short drive outside Rome - Castel Romano Outlet and Fashion District Valmontone. The antiques quarters lie along Via Margutta, Via del Babuino, Via Giulia, Via dei Banchi Vecchi and Via de' Coronari (the pedestrian street organises fairs in May and October when its stores are open late). Bric-a-brac and retro clothes are on offer at the increasingly popular flea markets, the best being Via Sannio

near San Giovanni (Monday to Saturday 0730-1400) and Porta Portese in Trastevere (Sunday 0700-1300). Although there are supermarkets and shopping malls in Rome, including one of the oldest in the city, the 100-shop Centro Commerciale Cinecitt Due, Viale Palmiro Togliatti 2, the preferred Roman shopping style is to visit the local fruit and vegetable markets (Monday to Saturday 0700-1300) and to dip in and out of delicatessens. Things are slowly changing however, with supermarkets increasingly (and unfortunately) making their presence felt. Luxury goods to take home may include assorted vinegar, truffles and olive oil. Castroni, Via Cola di Rienzo 196, sells the culinary riches from Italy's regions and comforting imports from around the world (including baked beans). The well-established Trimani, Via Goito 20, was founded in 1821 and stocks an excellent selection of Italian wines. Smaller shops often close for lunch (1300-1630). Larger stores, department stores and shops in touristy areas tend to stay open all day (0900/1000-1930) and open with reduced hours on Sunday. Opening times can be confusing, with many food shops closed on Thursday afternoon (in winter) and other shops not opening until the afternoon on Monday. Summer brings later opening hours (until 2000) but also Saturday afternoon closing for small, family-owned shops and complete closure for at least a fortnight in July, August or September. Value-added tax (IVA) is 20% on clothing and luxury goods. Foreign tourists from non-EU countries can claim a tax refund, provided they spend at least 155 at the same shop on the same day. SOFIA MINI GUIDE Sofia was founded 3,000 years ago, by an ancient Thracian tribe, the Serdi', and known as Serdica until the beginning of the ninth century. Dramatically ringed by the Balkan Mountains to the north and the Vitosha Mountains to the south, the capital stands on an open plain 550m (1,804ft) above sea level in western Bulgaria. The town centre is dominated by neo-classical Stalinist architecture and is surrounded by a sprawling periphery of bleak, Socialist-era block housing - a formidable greeting for the first-time visitor. However, a peek through the side streets and century-old commercial quarter reveals the true magic of Sofia - a very European city of tree-lined boulevards and balconied buildings by 19th-century Russian and Viennese architects. Standing among a cluster of ancient and neo-Byzantine Orthodox churches, and one functioning mosque, which is virtually all that remains of 500 years of Ottoman domination. However, it is in street life that the character of the city is to be found. Locals meet for coffee at open-air cafs, vast bazaars offer an array of pickles and farm produce, gypsies sell flowers on street

corners, while shoppers queue to board the city's rattling trams and folk musicians serenade the metro users. From the earliest times, Sofia's main attraction has been its thermal springs, which are still in public use today as a water source. Its strategic location on military and trade routes made it an important administrative centre in Roman times, reaching its grandeur as an early centre of Christianity during the reign of Constantine in the fourth century. Two significant Byzantine churches remain. In 1382, the Turks conquered the city but when they were ousted, in 1878, Sofia became the capital and its grand boulevards were constructed, cutting through the grid-plan quarters that had grown up around the oriental nucleus. Ottoman-imposed mosques were torn down, as the Orthodox Church was reinstated. During WWII, Bulgaria became part of the Axis and Sofia was heavily bombed in British and American raids - 3,000 buildings were destroyed and 9,000 damaged, which accounts for its newness today. When the war ended in 1944, Russian soldiers took the capital and Bulgaria became part of the Eastern Bloc. Under Communism, Sofia underwent a period of rapid industrialisation - new factories and high-rise apartment blocks grew up to form extended suburbs and the city's population escalated as thousands migrated from rural areas. The regime officially came to an end in 1989, although it remains the most obvious legacy in contemporary urban culture and architecture. Despite these impositions, Sofia retains and is reclaiming its sense of European elegance and identity. Politically and economically, however, Bulgaria continued to suffer from the vacuum left by Communism. The 1990s saw chaotic political instability, soaring unemployment, hyperinflation and rampant corruption. During privatisation measures, former Communist party members and their families managed to hold onto power and economic influence and still dominate the city's government and trade. Bulgaria, however, is beginning to attract an increasing number of tourists (who head mainly for the seaside resorts of the Black Sea and ski resorts such as Bansko), and it is hoped that this new influx of cash will help the country shape up. Bulgaria's accession to the EU in January 2007 has no doubt further boosted its appeal as a tourist destination, and will help its economic growth in years to come. Today's visitors to Sofia will find little of the austere Eastern Bloc society of the past. More likely they will be pleasantly surprised by the lively streets, appearance of increasing affluence, new boutiques

and clean, well-organised streets. With unemployment and inflation rates plummeting, the EU's newest member is gaining credibility and regaining economic stability, pleasing its educated population. The city's motto, Ever growing, never old,' is as true today as it ever was. City Statistics Location: Western Bulgaria. Dialling code: 359. Population: 1,400,000. Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are in use. Average January temperatures: - 2C (28.5F). Average July temperatures: 22C (71.5F). Annual rainfall: 645mm (25.4 inches). Sightseeing Sofia's city centre stands upon the foundations of the original Roman settlement, Serdica, although the remains of this city are several metres below ground level. The best starting point for a walking tour is ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, the city's main traffic hub. From here, a grid of streets radiate out towards the inner ring road, forming an irregular octagon around town. The main attractions are enclosed within this space and are all within walking distance of one another. From ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, bulvard Maria Louiza runs north, to the city's sole surviving functioning mosque, Banya Bashi Mosque. Close by, the Central Baths, which are currently undergoing major refurbishment, the Central Food Halls and the Synagogue form a hub of early 20th-century monuments. The boulevard proceeds through an area that becomes progressively less imposing as it nears the Central Station. Just off to the left lies the lively Women's Market. Meanwhile, to the south lies bulvard Vitosha, with the peak of Mount Vitosha proudly rising in the distance. The monumental bulvard Tsar Osvoboditel, running east of ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, goes past the exquisite St Nicholas Russian Church to arrive at Alexander Nevski ploshtad, overlooked by Sofia's star attraction, St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church, and the early Byzantine Church of St Sofia. Along this street are also the Ethnographic Museum, Archaeological Museum and National Art Gallery. Since 2006, the dual pricing system on entry to museums and sights

has been scrapped; foreign tourists now pay the same as locals. Tourist Information Bulgarian State Agency for Tourism Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya 1 Tel: (02) 933 5845/5811. Website: www.bulgariatravel.org The surprisingly little-known state-run tourist office is located bang in the city centre in a modern office. The staff has city maps, plus leaflets, information and booklets on tours, shopping and entertainment, including the invaluable booklet Sofia in your Pocket. Passes There are currently no tourist passes available in Sofia. Key Attractions Hram-pametnik Aleksander Nevski (St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church) Said to be Sofia's most photographed monument, Alexander Nevski is a magnificent neo-Byzantine cathedral-sized church, topped by copper and golden domes. Considered the heart of the city, it was built between 1882 and 1912, in honour of the Russian soldiers, who fell when the Russian army helped liberate Bulgaria from Ottoman rule in 1878. The church takes its name from Alexander Nevski, credited with saving Russia from Swedish troops in 1240 and the patron saint of the family of the tsar at that time, Alexander II (also known as Tsar Osvoboditel, the Tsar Liberator') who led the army that drove out the Turks. Inside, the central altar is dedicated to St Alexander Nevski, the southern altar to St Boris (who brought Christianity to Bulgaria) and the northern altar to Saints Cyril and Methodius (who created the Cyrillic alphabet). A total of 32 Russian and 13 Bulgarian artists worked on the delicate murals. The Icon Museum is located in the crypt, to the left of the main entrance. Here, over 300 icons and mural frescoes from the country's many monasteries trace the development of Bulgarian icon-painting from the late ninth century up to the end of the 19th century. There are English labels, as well as a guidebook available in Bulgarian and English. Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski Tel: (02) 988 1704. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800; services 0800 and 1700, Sat 1800, Sun 1700. Free admission.

Icon Museum Tel: (02) 981 5775. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1730. Admission charge.

Tsurkva Sveta Sofia (Church of St Sofia) Standing next to St Alexander Nevski, this early Byzantine brick church dates back to the fifth century, although there were several churches here before it, as well as the pre-Christian Serdica city necropolis. The present church still follows the classic Byzantine plan of a regular cross with a central dome. The city took its name from the church in the 14th century, which was converted to a mosque under Ottoman rule, when the original 12th-century frescoes were destroyed and minarets added. During the 19th century, the building was abandoned, following damage caused by an earthquake. After the Liberation in 1878, it was restored and reinstated as a church and now is a popular spot for weddings, funerals and baptisms. Outside, to the left of the main entrance, stands the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, lit by a perpetual flame in honour of those who died for Bulgaria. Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski Tel: (02) 987 0971. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800 (winter); 0700-1900 (summer). Free admission. Antique Market The narrow walkway off ploshtad Aleksander Nevski, leading up to Hram-pametnik Aleksander Nevski, has a daily antique market. The two rows of tables are filled with all sorts of treasures including wind-up gramophone records, daggers, Russian military helmets, communist memorabilia (whose authenticity could be questionable), old violins, silver jewellery, religious icon paintings and a whole host of bric-a-brac. Around the other side of the church, women often sell traditional fabrics and rugs. Prices escalate if the potential buyer is foreign, but join in the fun and try haggling. Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Free admission. Zhenski Pazar (Women's Market) The largest and busiest market in Sofia, Zhenski Pazar offers a wide range of fruit and vegetables, cheese, cured meats, dried fruit and nuts, homemade halva and other Turkish-inspired goodies. Syrian stalls selling sheesha pipes have become popular. The stall holders at the Women's Market were once all women but now male and female peasants from the surrounding hills travel to town each morning to sell their produce here. There are also some stalls selling cheap fake designer clothes and a few tourist-orientated items. The atmosphere is chaotic and fun. There are also some good Turkish cafs around the perimeter of the market selling espresso coffee and cheese pastries.

Bulvard Stefan Stambolov, between bulvard Slivnitsa and ulitsa Ekzar Yosef Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Free admission. Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya (Church of St Nedelya) Sveta Nedelya, with its huge dome, is a typical example of neoByzantine architecture. There has been a church here since medieval times, although the present building dates from the mid19th century. In 1925, the church was largely destroyed when Communist rebels exploded a bomb during a funeral service attended by Tsar Boris III and his cabinet ministers, killing 123 people. The square, ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, used to be named after Lenin and a statue of the Communist leader once stood here. It has since been replaced by a 24m (79ft) bronze statue of the goddess protector of the city, Sofia, holding the symbols of wisdom and fame. This is a favourite location for weddings on Sunday afternoons. Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya Tel: (02) 987 5748. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800. Free admission. Tsentralna Sofiiska Sinagoga (Central Sofia Synagogue) Situated behind the Hali, the Central Sofia Synagogue is the largest Sephardic synagogue in Europe, although nowadays it serves a very small community. During the Diaspora of the 15th century, Jews exiled from Spain were welcomed into the Ottoman Empire and settled quite peacefully. At the liberation from the Turks in 1878, Jewish people made up 20% of Sofia's population. Although spared in the war, from the 1950s onwards, 90% of the Jewish population immigrated to Israel. Designed by the Austrian architect Grunanger, the synagogue was built to resemble a former synagogue in Vienna, which was destroyed by the Nazis. Building began in 1905 and the official opening took place in 1909. The building is a square block of Spanish-Moorish design, with a large central dome lit by a showpiece 2,250kg (4,960lb) chandelier. The outer walls are ornamented with floral and geometric motifs. The building was restored by Bulgarian emigrants in Haifa (Israel), in the 1990s and officially rededicated in 1996. The synagogue was originally intended to accommodate 1,300 worshippers, but nowadays services are only attended by 50 or 60 people, and services on regular Sabbaths are usually held in a small room off the main gallery. Visitors must ring the bell on the gates for entry. Ulitsa Ekzar Yosif 16 Tel: (02) 983 1273.

Website: www.sofiasynagogue.com Opening times: Mon-Fri 0930-1600; closed Bulgarian and Jewish Sabbath and holidays. Admission charge. Jewish Museum of History The small museum, in the building behind the central synagogue (accessible by ringing the bell at the synagogue's gates), houses a permanent exhibition of The Rescue of the Bulgarian Jews (19411944). This depicts the history of local Jewry against a background of the horrors WWII and the extermination of 6 million Jews in Europe by the Nazis, and part of the story of their life and settlement in the Balkan Peninsula and their centuries-long good relationship with other religions. The museum also contains religious icons used in synagogue services, dating from between the 18th and 20th centuries, introducing visitors to the rituals, festivals and culture. Organised tours and lectures in English are included in the admission price. Ulitsa Ekzarh Yosef 16 Tel: (02) 983 1440. Website: www.sofiasynagogue.com/p_museum.php?lang=en Opening times: Mon-Fri 0830-1230 and 1300-1630. Free admission. Natzionalen Archeologicheski Musei (National Archaeological Museum) Housed in the ivy-clad 15th-century Buyuk Mosque (Big Mosque), the National Archaeological Museum is worth visiting just for the building itself. Recently reopened after extensive renovation work, the interior is airy and well lit and all exhibits are labelled in Bulgarian and English. Most of the pieces are of Thracian, Greek and Roman origin and there is a mosaic rescued from the floor of the St Sofia church. The star attraction is the Vulchitrun Treasure (a 12.5kg/27lb collection of 13 decorated and strangely shaped vessels of solid gold, probably used by a king-priest during Thracian religious rituals) which is upstairs in a guarded room of its own. It is best for English tourists to visit with a Bulgarian speaker, as the guard knows a great deal about what is to be found here. This is helpful, as the captions in the museum are vague. There are a few antiques and reproductions for sale in the museum foyer. After visiting the museum, the fashionable new Art Club Museum caf behind the main building, is a good place for tourists to stop for a drink or snack. Some of the larger carved Roman marbles are displayed in the courtyard. Ulitsa Saborna 2 Tel: (02) 988 2406. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (summer); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (winter). Admission charge.

Rotonda Sveti Georgi (Rotunda of St George) Standing in the courtyard of the Sheraton Balkan Hotel, the tiny sunken redbrick Rotunda of St George is the oldest preserved building in the city, built in the fourth century, as a Roman temple. Partly destroyed by the Huns, it was rebuilt as a church by Justinian, in the sixth century. The Turks converted the rotunda into a mosque, until it was finally reinstated as a church. Careful restoration work has revealed three layers of exquisite medieval frescoes (some dating from as early as the 10th century), which had been hidden by plaster during the 500 years of Ottoman rule. The impressive cupola bears a 14th-century portrait of Christ the Pantocrator, surrounded by four angels and symbols of the Evangelists. Beneath, 12th-century fresco work depicts 22 prophets holding scrolls, with texts alternately in Bulgarian and Greek. To the east lie excavated foundations of an octagonal-shaped Roman public building and paved street. Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya 5 Tel: (02) 981 6541. Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (winter); 0800-1800 (summer); liturgy 0900. Free admission, donations welcome. Banya Bashi Dzhamiya (Banya Bashi Mosque) Once there were 70 mosques in Sofia but today the Banya Bashi Dzhamiya is the only one still functioning. It was designed in 1576 by the greatest of all Ottoman architects, Mimar Sinan, who also built the Sultan Selim Mosque in Edirne and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. The mosque's finest feature is the domed ceiling, which was restored to its original design after the fall of Communism. Subdued loudspeakers on the elegant minaret call the city's Muslim minority to prayer five times a day - on Friday there can be as many as 400 worshippers in attendance. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times, including women, if modestly dressed. The inside is decorated with fine calligraphy, citing texts from the Koran, as the portrayal of human figures is banned in Islamic art. The mosque takes its name from the neighbouring Tsentralnata Banya (Central Baths) - Banya Bashi means a lot of baths'. The first thermal baths were built here by the Romans, although the present building dates from 1911. However, the baths are closed to the public while a major restoration takes place, after which they will reopen as the Museum of Sofia. The ornate mosaic domes of the exterior are still visible above the hoarding. Corner of bulvard Maria Louiza and ulitsa Triaditsa Opening hours: Daily 0500-2000 or 2100. Free admission.

Shopping Almost 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of Communism, the lack of colour associated with shopping in former Eastern Bloc countries seems pretty far behind and Sofia is smartening itself up to become more consumer orientated. Many of the big Western names in clothes, shoes, cosmetics and electronic goods are now represented and prices are on a par with those elsewhere in the West, with some reasonably good imitations at considerably cheaper prices. Bulgarian products, such as textiles, wood, ceramic and leather goods, still offer value for money but can be difficult to find. The main shopping areas centre on bulvard Vitosha, ulitsa Graf Ignatiev and ulitsa Rakovski. Following a costly facelift, TsUM, on the Largo, has cast off its former image as a drab department store and now operates as a Western-style shopping mall, with privately rented boutiques and cafs on three levels. The Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls), on Maria Louiza bulevard have been refurbished to form a spotlessly clean and well-organised bazaar and are open daily 0700-2400 (see Key Attractions). Pirotski has been repaved and pedestrianised, with a large open-air cafe-bar at the end facing the mosque, linking the Tsentralni Hali to Zhenski Pazar (Women's Market), open daily 0900-1800. Situated on Stefan Stambolov bulevard, Zhenski Pazar is a truly down-to-earth market (see Key Attractions). Gleaming shopping malls have been the latest thing to transform Sofia's shopping culture: Mall of Sofia, bulvard Stambouliski, is the largest, complete with bookshops, a food court, crche and international brands. CCS, bulvard Arsenalski, has six levels of bars, restaurants, an IMAX cinema, plus French fashions and Turkish homeware. Souvenirs such as reproduction icons, Russian dolls, jewellery, ceramics, wooden items, embroidered tablecloths and lace are for sale at stalls in front of Alexander Nevski church and a few along the streets behind. The Bulgarian Union of Artists, ulitsa Shipka 6, offers arts and crafts pieces at reasonable prices, and decent souvenirs and CDs of Bulgarian music are at Ethnographic Museum (see Further Distractions). Also worth investigating for souvenirs are the shops in the subway between TsUM and the Balkan Sheraton. There is a large book market at ploshtad Slavejkov, near the National Theatre and ulitsa Rakviski. Luxury goods to take home include Bulgarian wines, notably the full-bodied red Melnik, and rakiya (fruit brandy) - favourites being grozdova made from grapes and slivova from plum. Another national tipple is mastika, an anis-flavoured drink that is similar to Greek ouzo. These are available in shops throughout town. Supermarket chains have made an appearance in Sofia over the past couple of years, including the Austrian Billa, bulvard Bulgaria 55.

Most shops are open either 0900-1830 or 1000-1900 on weekdays and until 1300 on Saturday. Some private shops are also open on Saturday afternoon and even Sunday. VAT in Bulgaria is 20% and visitors who live outside the EU are able to obtain a VAT refund from the airport, next to passport control. VALLETTA MINI GUIDE As cities go, Valletta is tiny. It measures less than 1 sq km (0.4 sq miles) and you can walk across its widest point in less than 20 minutes. Within that space, however, shady atmospheric alleyways link grand squares, and glorious baroque palazzi sit alongside bars and shopfronts that have hardly changed in over a century. Set at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, Valletta is one of the best preserved fortified cities in the world and one of the architectural showpieces of Europe. It was built by the Knights of St John immediately after the Great Siege of 1565, during which the vastly outnumbered knights turned back the might of the hitherto invincible Ottoman Empire and thus arguably saved Western Europe. Riches poured into Malta from grateful courts across the continent and much of this went into constructing the new city. The Turks never returned but in 1942 Malta was at the centre of world events once more due to its strategic importance to the Allies. Once again it took a fearful pounding from a vastly superior force (this time the German Luftwaffe) but once again it held firm, and thus helped shape world events for a second time in its history. You'll need good walking shoes and sturdy legs to explore, as there are hundreds of steps and the only real way to get around is on foot. The city occupies a promontory, is enclosed by mighty bastions and curtain walls, and boasts magnificent sea views. In contrast to the tiny metropolis, Grand Harbour, home to the British Navy until 1979, is the biggest and arguably the most impressive harbour in all the Mediterranean. City Statistics Location: Central Malta. Dialling code: 356. Population: 6,300. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; UK-style, square three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 15C (59F). Average July temperatures: 30C (86F). Annual rainfall: 550 mm (21.6 inches). Sightseeing The honey-coloured streets of Valletta, with many buildings dating back several centuries, are a sight in themselves and wherever you look there is evidence of the Knights of St John - from their auberges (inns) to their hospital, their forts, their fortifications, their cathedral and greatest of all, the Grand Masters Palace.

There are a number of exhibitions and experiences reinterpreting the past, but the best way to get a handle on the history of the city is to take a boat trip around Grand Harbour and a guided tour of Fort St Elmo before visiting the Grand Masters Palace. WWII is covered in The National War Museum and the underground Lascaris War Rooms. The National Museum of Archaeology scrapes the surface of the distant past but to delve deeper you need to travel just out of the capital, most notably to the Hypogeum at Paola. Tourist Information Valletta Tourist Office 1 City Arcades Tel: 2123 7747. Website: www.visitmalta.com Key Attractions Grand Master's Palace The Grand Master was the head of the Order of the Knights of St John, and a total of 21 incumbents lived in this sumptuous building from 1575 until 1798, when the island was surrendered to Napoleon and the Order disbanded. Republic Street Tel: 2122 1221. St John's Co-Cathedral One of the largest and most spectacular churches in Europe, this 16th-century masterpiece boasts a spectacular floor laid almost entirely with some 400 marble tombstones dedicated to the Knights of St John, and flamboyant frescoes which cover the walls and tunnel-vaulted ceiling. St John's Square Tel: 2122 0536. Fort St Elmo This small star-shaped fort is where the bloodiest, most epic battle of the Great Siege of Malta was fought and its history is brought to life by daily guided tours and the spectacular In Guardia costumed re-enactment which is staged weekly. Mediterranean Street The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum The Hypogeum (the word means underground chamber') is easily the most interesting and atmospheric of Malta's many famous prehistoric temples and because of its excellent state of preservation, it is the key to understanding Malta's ancient temple culture. Cemetery Street, Paola, 5km (3 miles) south of Valletta Tel: 2182 5579. Website: www.heritagemalta.org Admission is by guided tour only, and must be reserved in advance. The Malta Experience The best audio-visual show on the island, set in a historic building, offering an excellent introduction to the history and special sights of Malta and Gozo.

St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street Tel: 2124 3776 or 2125 1284. Website: www.themaltaexperience.com Shopping Shopping in Valletta, indeed in Malta in general, is a modest affair, though in the last year or two, more and more interesting arty-crafty and boutique shops are opening in renovated premises around the city. The island's biggest shopping event is the weekly Sunday morning market at St James Ditch, held immediately outside the city walls. Coachloads of visitors (and many islanders too) come from all over, to pore over a ragbag of everyday clothing, replica football kits and pirated brand-name clothing, an antique flea market, old books, bits of car engines, sweets, live birds and whatever else is deemed to be saleable to someone somewhere. It's fun, if not for serious shoppers. Valletta's shopping forte is its many independent family-owned shops. Some of these specialise in gold and silver filigree jewellery, making pieces on the premises. The Silversmith's Shop, 218 Republic Street, is a good example where you can watch the proprietor at work. Leather items, particularly Italian-styled shoes are also good value, and are on sale throughout Valletta. At the Waterfront are island craft shops (pottery and glass) and the Forni Shopping Complex, home to a host of designer names. Most shops open at 0900, close for a siesta at 1300, and reopen from 1600 to 1900. Not all shops reopen Saturday afternoon and Sunday is a day of rest.

VENICE MINI GUIDE Venice may often seem metaphorically drowned under a sea of tourists at the height of summer, and even the landmark Piazza San Marco is often literally drowned during the flood tides, but there is no denying that La Serenissima (The Divine Republic) is an epic, unique and unforgettable city. Venice has the capacity to impress not only goggle-eyed first timers, but also the most jaded of travellers. Quite simply, La Serenissima is unlike anywhere else on the planet, with a collage of 116 islands connected by 409 bridges, where cars are banned and everyone, including postmen and the police, goes by boat. History is writ large in this northeastern Italian city and when visitors ease through the morning mists on empty canals, with grandiose buildings rising up on all sides, it is easy to slip back through the centuries, to the time of the Doges - the omnipotent rulers, whose influence spread well beyond the Venetian Lagoon. Venice then was an exotic melting pot of East and West, where travellers breezed in and out and traders peddled their silk and spices. Venice under the Doges was a land of unimaginable wealth, and riches were spent wisely in crafting some of Europe's most memorable buildings, from the imposing Doge's Palace to the grand architecture of St Mark's Square, famously described by Napoleon as the drawing room of Europe'. Away from the main tourist throng, another Venice appears, with narrow canals, women

hanging out their washing and small osterias (bars) where locals, for once, outnumber tourists. The introduction of the smoking ban has done little to dampen la dolce vita. In the intense heat of a Mediterranean summer, the city can just get too much and the tourist congregations too large. Many visitors are now choosing to turn up out of season, when swirls of mist and frosty winds descend upon the canals. At this time, the beauty of this unique city emerges through quintessential Venetian experiences, such as getting off a vaporetto at a random stop and ambling down a deserted canal; sniffing out an unheralded trattoria; or bouncing across the Venetian Lagoon after a freshly mixed Bellini at Harry's Bar, en route to dinner at the Hotel Cipriani. The city's citizens have endured flooded basements for decades, wearing Wellington boots to navigate its waterlogged streets during acqua alta (high waters), and there has been chronic damage to some of its most impressive buildings. But finally something is being done to shore up Venice: the Moses Project' has come to save the day after years of political struggles. Perhaps the last word on Venice should be left to one of her most illustrious patrons, Henry James: Dear old Venice has lost her complexion, her figure, her reputation, her self-respect; and yet, with it all, has so puzzlingly not lost a shred of her distinction'. City Statistics Location: Veneto, northeast Italy. Dialling code: 39. Population: 61,820 (city); 170,000 (including Mestre - metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 2C (36F). Average July temperatures: 23.5C (75F). Annual rainfall: 854mm (34.2 inches). Sightseeing Ongoing reconstruction work has made getting around Venice a bit more difficult than usual, but it should present few real hardships for visitors (and it is certainly preferable to the flooded streets of aqua alta). Often the best plan for sightseeing in Venice is to have no plan at all. Those who choose to follow a map soon end up on a one-way street with a watery end, or cut off by construction. For initial sightseeing, it is advisable for visitors to get on one of the main well signposted tourist thoroughfares from the train station to St Mark's Square, either via the Rialto or Galleria dell' Accademia. As water is so integral to the city, another recommended way for tourists to get a feel for Venice and its layout is to take a vaporetto ride from Piazzale Roma, located in the far east of the city, right along the wide artery of the nearby Grand Canal to St Mark's Square in the centre. The Grand Canal provides an insight into the very essence of Venice, with all sorts of waterborne craft, from vaporetti and speeding water taxis, right through to the more

leisurely traghetti and, of course, the ubiquitous gondola. All along the length of the Grand Canal are some of the most renowned sights in Venice, from the charming arch of the Rialto Bridge and the artistic treasure trove of the Galleria dell' Accademia to the more modern charms of the canal-side restaurants and the avantgarde art mecca of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Breaking away from the water, there are the attractions of St Mark's Basilica, the Doge's Palace, Basilica dei Frari and Scuola di San Rocco. Elsewhere around the Venetian Lagoon are the enticing islands, such as Murano, renowned for its glass, Burano, famous for its lace, and Torcello, famous for looking much like Venice would have before the builders moved in. On a clear day, taking a vaporetto over the lagoon to the Lido is also recommended to see the city shimmering across the water with a hulk of snow-capped mountains as a dramatic backdrop. For repeat visitors, day trips to the surrounding cities of Padua, Vicenza and Treviso beckon, with good rail connections to all three. Tourist Information Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT, Tourist Board of Venice) Giardini Ex Reali, San Marco (Venice Pavilion) Tel: (041) 522 5150. Website: www.turismovenezia.it Opening hours: Daily 0900-1730. Passes The fairly complicated VeniceCard (tel: (041) 2424; website: www.venicecard.it) is split between blue' and orange' variations, with the former including public transport and toilets, and the latter also providing access to some of the city's museums. Then there are variations between senior and junior cards, with the junior card available to those under 30 years old, the disabled and guides. Transport to/from Marco Polo airport by boat can also be included. The VeniceCard is available from railway stations, tourist information offices and online. The Chorus Pass (tel: (041) 275 0462; website: www.chorusvenezia.org) includes entry to 15 of Venice's churches, including the spectacular Frari church and Palladio's Santa Sede Redentore. The pass lasts for one year, with proceeds going towards the upkeep of some of Venice's most historic parish churches. This pass is available for purchase at the tourist office, which will also provide a full list of the participating churches and their locations. Passes can also be purchased from the churches themselves. The excellent value Rolling Venice Card (tel: (041) 2424; website: www.venicecard.it/rolling_eng.jsp), available to those aged 29 or under and valid for one year, gives a range of discounts at many of Venice's attractions. The Rolling Venice Card is available for purchase from the railway station and tourist information offices. Key Attractions Basilica di San Marco (St Mark's Basilica) St Mark's Square was memorably described by Napoleon as the drawing room of Europe'. Here, visitors can sit at one of the elegant 18th-century coffee houses (Florian

and Caffe Quadri, with tables spilling out into the sunlight from the shadows of the Renaissance colonnades) and peer at one of Europe's most unusual churches, the golden Byzantine Basilica di San Marco. The basilica was founded in the ninth century, as a shrine for the relics of St Mark, whose body was smuggled from Alexandria in a barrel of salted pork. Formerly a private chapel of the Doges, the church was completely rebuilt in the 11th century, following a fire. Built on a plan of a Greek Cross, its Eastern appearance is enhanced by golden mosaics both inside and out, originally created by craftsmen from the Byzantine court at Ravenna. To see how the church appeared in 1260, visitors should take a look at the mosaic over the left portal - one of the oldest surviving mosaics on the facade. Also on the facade are copies of four bronze horses seized from Constantine's Hippodrome at the sacking of Constantinople in 1204, which became one of the symbols of the city. The originals are now displayed in the Museo Marciano, inside the church. The interior, lit by the expanse of golden mosaics, houses many of Venice's greatest treasures. In the chapel north of the main altar is the venerated icon of the Madonna Nicopeia. Once worshipped by the Roman Emperors in Constantinople, she came to Venice in 1204, as their Madonna of Victory, whose blessing was vital for Venetian military campaigns. The golden screen behind the high altar (the crypt in which St Mark is supposed to be buried) is the Pala d'Oro. Decked with sapphires, emeralds and rubies and inset with enamels from Constantinople, it was ordered by Pietro Orseolo, the Doge who was responsible for the rebuilding of the basilica. Before leaving St Mark's, visitors should pause to admire the 12th-century pavement, a resplendent mosaic of glass and marble. Now filled with uneven dips, it is a fitting witness to Venice's unique situation, as the weight of its history threatens to submerge it below the waters. The waterfront by Piazza San Marco is currently blighted by muchneeded attempts to shore it up, and looks destined to ruin many a tourist photo for some time to come. Piazza San Marco Tel: (041) 522 5205. Website: www.basilicasanmarco.it Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0945-1700 (Apr-Sep) and 0945-1645 (Oct-Mar). Admission charge. Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace) The Doge's Palace (once home to the elected leader of Venice, the Doge, as well as the city's political nerve centre) is a must for anyone interested in the history of Venice and its former empire. A building seemingly too graceful for the dirty work of government, its pearly facade is best appreciated from the lagoon, in whose milky light her rosy complexion blushes beguilingly. A merging of Islamic and gothic styles, the facade dates from 1365. In contrast to the stern fortifications of the castle that was formerly on this site, the undefended colonnade and arcaded balcony are a testament to Venice's confidence and democratic outlook during the Middle Ages. The interior is more Renaissance in style, dating mainly from the 16th century, when Antonio da Ponte was employed to refurbish the palace after the fire of 1577. The first floor is predominantly made up of the Ducal apartments, all but empty except for some exemplary paintings by Titian and Bellini. It is on the upper floors that the business of

government took place and it is here that Tintoretto and Veronese were commissioned to create new paintings to highlight the power and wealth of the republic. The Anticollegio (or waiting room) holds some of the palace's best works - Tintoretto's Bacchus and Ariadne vies for attention with Veronese's Rape of Europa. Further on, the Sala del Collegio is dominated by Veronese's ceiling painting of Venice Triumphant above the throne. But it is the Chamber of the Great Council (Sala del Maggior Consiglio), the huge hall on the third floor, spanning the length of the facade overlooking the lagoon, which holds the palace's most dramatic work. Tintoretto's Vision of Paradise (painted with the help of his son, Domenico) is the largest oil painting in the world, with a cast of 500 figures. Tintoretto junior is also responsible for the frieze of portraits of the first 76 Doges, made memorable by the blacked-out image of Marin Falier, the only Doge ever to attempt to overthrow the council and install himself as absolute ruler. Falier was beheaded for his pains but his notoriety lives on in this silhouetted image. The Doge's Palace is currently nearing the end of a five-stage restoration project, with the final completion date constantly changing. Concerted attempts are being made to keep as many of the museum areas as possible open throughout the running repairs. Riva degli Schiavoni, San Marco Tel: (041) 271 5911. Website: www.museiciviciveneziani.it Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (Apr-Oct) and 0900-1700 (Nov-Mar). Admission charge. Rialto Bridge Venice is historically centred on Rialto Island, the name of which is derived from the Latin rivus altus, meaning high bank. In the 10th century, a provisions market developed spontaneously on the adjacent island and so, in 1264, the first wooden bridge linking the two landmasses was built. This wooden bridge collapsed in 1444, from the weight of crowds watching a wedding procession. It was replaced in 1588, by Antonio da Ponte's design for the single stone arched bridge, which beat off proposals by Palladio and Michelangelo. Da Ponte's bridge retained the covered shops of the original - today the haunt of tacky tourist traps and hawk-eyed goldsmiths, but once home to Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice. Visitors may note how the bridge crosses the Grand Canal at an angle, in order to align with the axis of the Ruga degli Orefici (Goldsmiths' Road). Until 1854, this was the only point at which the Grand Canal could be crossed on foot. Be sure to go when it is dark, or even better misty as well, when the bridge really takes on an otherworldly atmosphere. Ponte di Rialto, near Piazzale Roma Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Galleria dell'Accademia Many of Venice's greatest paintings remain in the buildings for which they were created, but the most important art gallery, the Accademia, is still worth a visit. Housed in the former church of Santa Maria della Carita and the adjoining Scuola, the collection first opened in 1750.

Oils were the favourite medium of the Venetian masters. Frescoes, popular on the mainland, were unsuited to the damp, salty climate of the lagoon and soon perished. Instead, oils painted on wood or canvas (long used in Northern Europe) were exploited to new limits, with the artists demonstrating an unusual sensitivity to colour and light, no doubt partly influenced by the play of light on the lagoon. The small paintings in rooms 4 and 5 are some of the finest in the collection. Giorgione's Tempesta, depicting a naked mother and child sheltering under a stormy sky against the ruins of an ancient city, is full of mystery. Little is known about the artist and the subject of the scene is unclear, but the interplay of dark and light conveys a deep sense of drama. The larger canvases by Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese in room 10 should not be missed either. Titian painted the Pieta for his own tomb, demonstrating his extraordinary ability to create light with his palette. Veronese's bawdy picture, entitled Feast in the House of Levi, was originally painted as The Last Supper but the artist was forced to change the title after charges of indecorum. Visitors should allow time for room 21, to admire the drama and colour of the nine broad canvases in which Carpaccio has dramatically staged the Life of St Ursula. Dorsoduro 1050 Tel: (041) 522 2247. Website: www.gallerieaccademia.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1915, Mon 0815-1400. Admission charge. Basilica dei Frari (Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari) The glorious gothic Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, constructed around 1330, is primarily associated with the name of Titian, Venice's painter son who is buried here, alongside the city's celebrated sculptor, Antonio Canova. Titian made his reputation and crowned his early years by painting the huge altar piece, The Assumption of the Virgin, for the Franciscan brothers of the Frari in 1518. The view through the choir screen and wooden choir to the high altar influenced Titian's choice of frame and composition. The best way for one to admire it is to walk slowly up the centre of the nave towards the altar. Titian also executed the painting over the Pesaro family altar in the north aisle. The inclusion of the flag and Turk in the painting alludes to Bishop Pesaro's victory over the Turks at Santa Maura. Titian's tomb, located in the south aisle, faces the large marble pyramid created for Canova, depicting St Mark's lion paying homage to the dead sculptor. Ironically, the design, executed by Canova's pupils, was based on Canova's own plans for a new monument to Titian. San Polo 3072 Tel: (041) 272 8611. Website: www.basilicadeifrari.it Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800 and Sun 1300-1800. Admission charge. Scuola Grande di San Rocco (School of St Roch) The renown of the School of St Roch, one of the many lay fraternities established in Venice for charitable works, is the series of masterful canvases by Jacopo Tintoretto that decorate its interior. Founded in 1478, the school was dedicated to St Roch, following a particularly vicious outbreak of plague. Tintoretto won the commission to decorate the entire Scuola in 1564 and spent the next 23 years doing so, becoming a brother of the

school. The ground floor holds a series of large canvasses depicting scenes from the Life of the Virgin (1582-1587). In the upper hall, connected by Scarpagnino's staircase, are representations from the Old Testament on the ceiling and New Testament on the walls (1570-1581). The art critic and famous Victorian thinker, John Ruskin, reserved his greatest praise for the Sala dell'Albergo (1564-1567), where the chapter met. On entering the room, the visitor is confronted with the stunning expanse of Tintoretto's Crucifixion along the breadth of the opposite wall, one of the world's great works of art. Tintoretto manages to capture the painterly equivalent of tempo, rendering the darkened landscape busy with vignettes of activity while the divine halo around Christ's head, his face partly hidden as his head bows in death, dimly illuminates the scene. Visitors attending one of the cultural events in the building can nip through during the interval for a free peek at the master's work. Campo San Rocco, San Polo 3054 Tel: (041) 523 4864. Website: www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it Opening hours: Daily 0900-1730 (Apr-Oct) and 1000-1700 (Nov-Mar). Admission charge. Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni (Dalmation School of St George the Slav) During the Middle Ages, the large Dalmatian (Schiavoni means Slav') population in Venice provided labourers for building ships and sailors for the Venetian fleets. Forming a charitable guild in 1451, they moved their seat to the School of St George in 1480, under the patronage of the Knights of Malta. Vittore Carpaccio, himself of Istrian origin, painted a series of celebrated and brilliantly imaginative canvases, between 1502 and 1508. Located in a dark hall on the ground floor since 1551, the canvases depict scenes from the lives of the guild's patron saints - St George, St Tryphone and St Jerome. Based on tales from The Golden Legend, the images depict St George killing the dragon, St Jerome welcoming the lion into the monastery, the funeral of St Jerome and the revelation of the death of St Jerome to St Augustine. Carpaccio's canvases demand attention through a combination of drama and extraordinary detail. The canal-side wall, complete with its relief of George slaying the dragon, is in a dire state, but finally work is underway to shore it up, as well as to stabilise the rest of the exterior. Calle dei Furlani 3259/A, Castello Tel: (041) 522 8828. Opening: Tues-Sat 0930-1230 and 1530-1830, Sun 0930-1230 (Apr-Oct); Tues-Sat 1000-1230 and 1500-1800, Sun 1000-1230 (Nov-Mar). Admission charge. Peggy Guggenheim Collection Peggy Guggenheim's collection of modern art is probably the most distinguished in Italy. The wealthy American heiress (a generous benefactor who helped promote Jackson Pollock amongst others) built up her collection between 1938 and 1947. Following the exhibition of the collection at the 1948 Venice Biennale, she bought the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, where she lived until her death in 1979, leaving her estate to the Solomon Guggenheim Foundation. The collection spans Cubism, European Abstraction, Surrealism and early American Abstract Expressionism, with works by a wide variety of artists,

including Pollock, Picasso, Kandinsky and Dal. The sculpture garden is particularly fine and enjoys lovely views over the Grand Canal. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro Tel: (041) 240 5411. Website: www.guggenheim-venice.it Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1800. Admission charge. Shopping From the pungent fish market to hand-blown glass factories, Venice may not be focused on shopping style but it certainly has some of Italy's more interesting gifts. Once a trading post of silks and spices, the city's shops are now filled with carnival masks, Murano crystal and hand-painted fabrics. Given the city's popularity as a tourist centre, don't expect to find many bargains. There is no set shopping district, although most of the fashionable haunts, including Benetton, Max Mara, Sisley and Calvin Klein, are situated on or off the main drag between the train station and St Mark's Square. As well as the international designers, all of the big Italian names are present (Versace, Armani, Missoni, Gianfranco Ferre and Valentino) as well as a few more unusual clothing lines, such as Emilio Ceccato, Sottoportego di Rialto and San Polo, who specialises in gondoliers' outfits. Of the carnival masks, some of the best can be found at Emilio Massaro, Calle Vitturi, San Marco, where shoppers can watch them being made. The islands of Burano (lace) and Murano (glass) are also prime excursions for speciality shoppers. Glass is the most celebrated of the city's industries. From chandeliers to jewellery, all manner of shapes and objects are reproduced in the delicate colourful glass. Prices vary enormously but tourists should expect to be fleeced in the elegant shops around St Mark's Square and even on the island of Murano. Carlo Moretti at L'Isola, Campo San Moise, San Marco, and Lucio Bubacco, Calle Rughetta, San Polo, are two of the best designers. Other chic glassware outlets include Ma.Re, XXII Marzo, Markus Art Gallery, Piazza San Marco, and Cesare Toffolo, Bressagio 8/A Murano. For the ultimate novelty gift, visitors should head for Giacomo Rizzo, Calle San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio, where there is a selection of local produce, including gondolashaped pasta. Countless outlets around Venice cater for those with a penchant for overpriced and poor quality art, while there are some hidden gems, such as Galleria D'Arte L'Occhio, Dorsoduro 181, with large prints and originals by innovative Italian artists on sale. Papier mch masks can be bought all over Venice with high quality masks offered by Papier Mch, Calle Lunga San Maria Formosa and La Bottega Dei Mascareri, San Polo (Rialto). Of the markets in Venice, the fish market (open Tuesday to Saturday 0800-1200) is the most memorable. Tucked away under the arches alongside the Rialto Bridge, visitors should aim to catch it in the early morning, when the dawn mists rise off the lagoon and piles of shimmering fish glisten in the sunlight. Dedicated bargain-hunters should also look out for the flea market, which appears infrequently in the Campo San Maurizio. Food shops in Venice often close on a Wednesday afternoon and many gift and clothes boutiques stay shut on Monday morning. In general, shops are open 0900-1930, with

many smaller shops closing between 1300 and 1600. Sales tax is 12 to14% depending on the value of the goods purchased.

Miami Mini Guide Miami today is a city full of emotion, colour and texture. It is hot, sexy and affects all the senses, a strong reflection of its growing Latin culture. Hardly the brash, drug-ridden crime capital of America that was made famous in the 1980s television series Miami Vice, today's booming metropolis has since been dubbed America's Casablanca,' the Magic City' and, more recently, the America of the Millennium.' These various appellations touch on one aspect of Miami that distinguishes it from other US cities - its identity as a truly multicultural American city. It is a gateway to South and Central America and the third most popular city in the United States for international visitors (after Los Angeles and New York). In fact, Miami just might be more Latin American than simply American. Despite being a city famed for its sunny weather, spicy nightlife and fine dining, Miami had surprisingly humble beginnings. Located on the far south coast of Florida, perched between a mangrove swamp and a barrier reef, Miami was founded 100 years ago, when a tycoon called Henry Flagler extended his railroad to carry citrus fruits from the frost-free south. Development was slow until the Florida land boom in the 1920s. During Prohibition, Al Capone came here when the heat was on in Chicago. After WWII, the Mafia moved in and later, once Fidel Castro seized power in Cuba in 1959, waves of Cuban refugees arrived. Before long, they had established Miami as the Latin capital of the USA - with later mass immigration in the 1980s as well. The cultural climate the Cubans created in Miami inspired residents of other Latin American countries (Colombia, Dominica, Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Haiti and others) to seek an escape from poverty or oppressive governments and emigrate. And now, Spanish is spoken as pervasively in Miami as English. Yet the city is one of America's most ultramodern cities - the second largest in Florida (after Jacksonville) but easily its most exciting, exotic and cosmopolitan. Miami, known as Greater Miami and the Beaches or just Greater Miami for short, includes a number of islands and mainland communities, including two cities - Miami and Miami Beach. Much of Miami's appeal is due to its diverse neighbourhoods, which range from the bigcity, towering skyscrapers of downtown Miami (the commercial heart of the city) to Little Havana, home to the Cuban community, or to the trendy Miami Beach neighbourhood of South Beach. South Beach is probably most recognisably Miami,' with its candy-coloured

art deco buildings set against a pure South Florida backdrop of cloudless skies, dazzling blue ocean, pale sandy beaches and swaying palm trees. Greater Miami is also an international crossroads of commerce, finance, culture, sports, entertainment, transportation and tourism, which is, not surprisingly, the city's main source of income. The influx of wealthy Latinos from South America is changing the economy significantly. Miami is now where they do business, and even many restaurateurs believe if they have a restaurant in Los Angeles and New York, they must have one in Miami. T he city is changing with the revitalisation of downtown and expensive condos emerging everywhere. As real estate skyrockets, locals move westwards away from Miami's beaches and older upscale neighbourhoods. The downtown Port of Miami is the largest cruise ship port in the world, which handles more than 3.6 million passengers a year. Besides its importance to cruise travel, Miami Beach is world-renowned for its gold coast' hotel strip, palatial properties and outdoor recreational facilities. Locals give the feeling that nothing could ever be more important than taking a morning run along the beach, sunning oneself or shopping during the afternoon, then dining and dancing till dawn. Miami's subtropical climate ensures warm weather year-round, with plenty of sunshine and the lifestyle and vibe here emphasise not work but plenty of play. The city's real genius, however, is that in recent years, it has successfully absorbed the different cultures of its multi-ethnic population and been influenced by them all - and now Miami is considered a model community for the 21st century and a compelling example of America's changing face. While there are downsides as a result of its diverse population, Miami is essentially a city founded on the ideals of liberation by immigrants looking for an opportunity to flourish. Now one of the most exhilarating cities in the country, this safe, successful, multicultural metropolis has vibrancy and savoir faire and really is a City of the Future,' surrounded by sparkling ocean and beautiful beaches, year-round perfect weather, colourful and delectable cuisine, and it is a growing Mecca for sports, food and culture.

City Statistics

Location: Florida, USA.

Dialling code: 1. Population: 379,724 (city); 2.4 million (metropolitan area, 2005 estimate). Time zone: GMT - 5 (Eastern Standard Time). Electricity: 110-115 volts AC, 60Hz; flat two- or three-prong plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 19.5C (67F). Average July temperatures: 28.5C (83F). Annual rainfall: 1,425mm (56.1 inches).

Sightseeing
Miami has long been a premier tourist destination, acclaimed for its physical beauty and its excellent climate. Year round, the fabled white-sand beaches and clear blue waters lapping Miami Beach have beckoned visitors to America's Riviera.' Others are lured by Miami's world-class shopping and cosmopolitan dining, its international culture and legendary nightlife. Miami's diverse neighbourhoods offer a range of activities, from cultural to sporting. Residential Coral Gables is known for its examples of architectural elegance, including the Biltmore Hotel, Fairchild Tropical Garden and the incomparable Venetian Pool, while the bustling Bayside Harbour complex in Downtown Miami offers boat excursions. The distinctly Latin district of Little Havana, home to the city's huge Cuban population, has cigar-making shops and is the place to be in March for the lively Calle Ocho Festival. Over in Miami Beach, South Beach is one of the most-visited neighbourhoods, famed for its pastel and stainless steel art deco buildings, where the legendary Ocean Drive boulevard is fringed by Miami's trendiest sidewalk boutiques, bars and restaurants - the favourite haunts of such local celebrities as Gloria Estefan, Madonna, Ricky Martin and Donatella Versace. Perhaps Miami's biggest crowd-puller is its rich multicultural flavour, which gives the city an undeniably unique atmosphere. Just as the rest of America has embraced the

rhythms of heart-throbs Ricky Martin, Enrique Iglesias, Shakira and other Hispanic music sensations, Miami has long been swaying to a Latin remix of sensuality, salsa and South Beach style, making it one of the most exciting cities in the USA. Visitors should note that Miami is divided into quadrants. Flagler Street runs east-west, thus dividing the city into north and south sections, while Miami Avenue runs northsouth, splitting the city into east and west sections. Most Miami addresses refer to these quadrants. Tourist Information Greater Miami and the Beaches Convention and Visitors Bureau

Suite 2700, 701 Brickell Avenue Tel: (305) 539 3000. Website: www.miamiandbeaches.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800. Passes
The Miami Visitor Pass offers up to 15% discount at 85 participating businesses and tour operators (website: www.miamibeach411.com/discount_card.htm). The Go Miami Card grants admission to over 40 attractions, activities, and tours. Cards range from one to seven day passes (website: www.gomiamicard.com). Visitors can also contact the Visitors Bureau for promotions, specials and money-saving coupons. Key Attractions Downtown Miami Downtown Miami is the metropolis' nerve centre (the commercial heart of the city), distinguished by its sleek skyscrapers, impressive government buildings and cultural centres, and edged by the Port of Miami, the largest cruise ship port in the world. Brickell Avenue is home to major international banks and businesses, as well as Brickell Village, the area around SW Sixth Street, which has power-lunch restaurants cum buzzing nightspots. On the waterfront, the lively Bayside Marketplace is a popular shopping and entertainment arcade, clustered around a small harbour and abuzz with bars, shops and market stalls. Bayside is the the starting point for several boat tours (see Tours of the City) of Miami Bay. Adjacent to Bayside Marketplace is the American Airlines Arena, a 20,000-person entertainment venue and home of the basketball team Miami Heat. The historic Gusman Center for the Performing Arts nearby hosts the Miami Film Festival and other cultural events under a painted starry sky' ceiling. Beyond the port, exclusive Fisher Island, accessible only by boat or private plane, is the address in Miami and home to many celebrities.

Bayside Marketplace 401 Biscayne Boulevard Tel: (305) 577 3344. Website: www.baysidemarketplace.com Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 1000-2200, Fri-Sat 1000-2300, Sun 1100-2100. Free admission. American Airlines Arena 601 Biscayne Boulevard Tel: (786) 777 1000 or 777 1237 for customer services. Website: www.aaarena.com Gusman Center for the Performing Arts 174 East Flagler Street Tel: (305) 374 2444. Website: www.gusmancenter.orgCarnival Centre for the Performing Arts1444 Biscayne BoulevardTel: (305) 377 1220.Website: www.pacfmiami.org
South Beach Glitzy, glamorous South Beach is undoubtedly the trendiest part of town, the place to see and be seen and a magnet for celebrities and fun-lovers who thrive on its cosmopolitan atmosphere, designer shopping, upbeat restaurants and fast-paced nightlife. By day, a young, hip crowd of trendy film-star wannabes, international supermodels, artists, writers, tourists, strollers, strutters and the thriving local gay community all cruise Ocean Drive and the pedestrian-friendly Lincoln Road Mall, with its art galleries, shops, and restaurants - providing the colourful mix that fuels the district's feverish energy levels. By night, salsa or techno music flows from the many dance clubs onto the busy streets. South Beach itself, with its white sands, palm trees and dazzling blue sea, stretches from Lincoln Road Mall to South Pointe Park at the southernmost tip (great for surfing, fishing and sunsets). The main access point is Lummus Park, bordering Ocean Drive, a favourite park for in-line skaters and volleyball players. However, the most striking feature of South Beach is its famous art deco historic district - over 800 buildings within 1.5 sq km (1 sq mile), all in the same streamlined architectural style, painted in pastel shades and lit with brilliantly coloured neon lights. Even the Burger King on Alton Road is housed in an art deco structure. Tours of the district are offered on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings or Thursday evening and self-guided tour maps are always available at the Art Deco Welcome Center.

Lincoln Road Mall to South Pointe Park

Art Deco Welcome Center 1001 Ocean Drive Tel: (305) 531 3484. Website: www.mdpl.org Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1900, Sun 0930-1800.Free admission.
Miami Beach Miami Beach is located on a long slender island connected to mainland Miami by four main causeways. It comprises various coastal towns, each with its own personality including Surfside, the upscale shopping district of Bal Harbour, Sunny Isles Beach, South Beach (see above) and Golden Beach. Miami Beach's white sands extend from Lincoln Road Mall northwards to 87th Street, with a scenic boardwalk popular with joggers and strollers, and pastel-coloured art deco lifeguard stations dotting the shoreline. A variety of watersports are available, including windsurfing, sailing, jet-skiing and parasailing. Lincoln Road Mall to 87th Street

Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Road Tel: (305) 866 0311. Website: www.balharbourshops.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-2100, Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1200-1800. Free admission.
Little Havana After Fidel Castro took power in 1959, refugees fleeing Cuba settled just west of downtown Miami, in a neighbourhood known as Little Havana. Today, with its 800,000strong Cuban-American community, this colourful district has a distinctly Latin atmosphere with its Spanish signs, Cuban coffee bars and restaurants, small cigar factories and street-side food stalls, selling such delicacies as baho (Cuban stew) and freshly squeezed juices. Monuments to anti-Castro Cubans line the streets, especially around Calle Ocho (Eighth Street), the liveliest part of Little Havana and the venue for the Calle Ocho Festival, a famous annual spring carnival - America's largest street party. Key Biscayne

Linked to the mainland by the Rickenbacker Causeway, Key Biscayne combines traditional Florida-style houses with ostentatious mansions belonging to some of Miami's wealthiest residents. The beaches here rank among Florida's best - their fine sand and relatively calm seas make them a popular choice for families. Other top attractions include two beautiful parks (Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park and Crandon Park) both with magnificent beaches, bike trails and nature walks. Bill Baggs is home to the Cape Florida Lighthouse, built in 1825. The small Crandon Family Amusement Center in the park has an old-time carousel, playground and outdoor roller rink.

Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park 1200 South Crandon Boulevard Tel: (305) 361 5811. Website: www.dep.state.fl.us/parks Opening hours: Daily 0800-sunset. Admission charge. Crandon Park 4000 Crandon Boulevard Tel: (305) 361 5421 or 7388/5 (Amusement Centre). Website: www.miamidade.gov/parks/parks/crandon_amusement.asp Opening hours: Daily 0800-sunset (park); daily 1000-1900 (Amusement Centre). Free admission.
Miami Seaquarium Located on beautiful Biscayne Bay, the Miami Seaquarium has over 10,000 aquatic creatures on display - including crocodiles, gators' and seals, as well as fish of every imaginable shape, size and colour. Star acts include Lolita, a 7,000-pound killer whale (visitors should sit at least six rows back in the audience to keep dry), Salty the sea lion and TV superstar Flipper the dolphin. The most impressive aspect of Seaquarium, however, is its genuine attempt to preserve and protect marine life. The in-house Marine Mammal Rescue Team is constantly striving to save stranded or injured manatees, dolphins and whales in the waters of South Florida. Other exhibits include Discovery Bay, a natural mangrove habitat used to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles; and the special Manatee Exhibit where manatees are nursed back to health, ready for release into the wild. 4400 Rickenbacker Causeway, Key Biscayne Tel: (305) 361 5705. Website: www.miamiseaquarium.com Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800.

Admission charge. Coconut Grove Located on the edge of Biscayne Bay, south of downtown Miami, Coconut Grove is one of the city's oldest neighbourhoods, with bohemian roots. Settled by a multicultural group of Bahamians and New Englanders, the neighbourhood drew artists and intellectuals, who set up summer homes here. Today, it is a trendy district with a bustling village atmosphere, full of colourful galleries, theatres, nightclubs, fine restaurants, hip sidewalk cafs and shops. The main attraction is The Gallery at CocoWalk, a stylish shopping mall packed with restaurants, bars, shops and a cinema. It is also home to the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens (see Further Distractions).

The Gallery at CocoWalk 3015 Grand Avenue Tel: (305) 444 0777. Website: www.galleryatcocowalk.com Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1100-2200, Fri and Sat 1100-2400 (bars and restaurants until 0200). Free admission.
Coral Gables This elegant Mediterranean-style residential district, 16km (10 miles) southwest of downtown Miami, was created by local developer George Merrick during the boom years of the 1920s. Today, it contains some of the city's finest architecture, set amid broad boulevards, canals and parkland. Some buildings are preserved as historic landmarks, including the stunning Biltmore Hotel, identified by its 15-storey tower modelled on the Giralda bell-tower in Seville. The remarkable Venetian Pool, transformed from a mere rock quarry in 1923, has exotic bridges and waterfalls and was the site of many highsociety soires and beauty pageants in its time, as the vintage on-site photographs reveal. Today, it is the only swimming pool on the National Register of Historic Places. Coral Gables is also known for its art galleries, its exclusive Miracle Mile shopping street, its neatly manicured golf courses and some of the best hotels and restaurants in town.

Biltmore Hotel 1200 Anastasia Avenue Tel: (305) 445 1926 or 1 800 915 1926.Website: www.biltmorehotel.com Venetian Pool 2701 De Soto Boulevard

Tel: (305) 460 5306/57. Website: www.venetianpool.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1930, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (Jun-Jul); Mon-Thurs 11001730, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (Aug, Sep, Oct, Apr and May); Tues-Sun 1000-1630 (NovMar). Admission charge. Historical Museum of Southern Florida This museum offers a fascinating insight into the region's past. It has a small but impressive collection of hands-on displays, archive material, historical objects and multimedia presentations, which covers 10,000 years of Florida history from the first settlers to the present day.

Miami-Dade Cultural Centre101 West Flagler Street, downtown Miami Tel: (305) 375 1492. Website: www.hmsf.org Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, every third Thurs 1000-2100, Sun 1200-1700. Admission charge.
Miami Museum of Science and Planetarium The nationally renowned Miami Museum of Science and Planetarium, associated with the Smithsonian Institute, features interactive scientific exhibits on physics, electricity, light, sound and anatomy, as well as daily astronomy and laser shows in the adjacent planetarium. It also boasts South Florida's largest natural history collection and a wildlife centre that rehabilitates injured birds of prey and reptiles, and displays more than 175 live animals. 3280 South Miami Avenue, Coconut Grove Tel: (305) 646 4200. Website: www.miamisci.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last entry at 1700). Admission charge. Art Museums The Miami Art Museum displays international art since WWII, complemented by art from other periods to provide historical perspective. Meanwhile, the new Miami Beach Cultural Park has many art institutions, one of which is the Bass Museum. The permanent exhibits of this weighty art museum focus on European works from the 15th to 18th centuries. A new wing, designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, also has an

outdoor sculpture garden. The Wolfsonian Museum, affiliated with the Florida International University, was founded by an eccentric world-traveller and Miami native from his own collection of modern design and propaganda arts.' One-of-a-kind exhibits address 19th- and 20th-century political themes, displaying the arts and crafts that were created to persuade, nationalise or rally citizens. The gift shop sells high-design home decor objects and lovely art books.

Miami Art Museum Miami-Dade Cultural Centre, 101 West Flagler Street, downtown Miami Tel: (305) 375 3000. Website: www.miamiartmuseum.org Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1200-1700, third Thurs of the month 1000-2100. Admission charge; free on Sun and second Sat of the month. Bass Museum 2121 Park Avenue, at 21st Street, Miami Beach Tel: (305) 673 7530. Website: www.bassmuseum.org Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700, closed Mon and holidays. Admission charge. Wolfsonian Museum 1001 Washington Avenue, South Beach Tel: (305) 531 1001. Website: www.wolfsonian.fiu.edu Opening hours: Mon-Tues, Sat and Sun 1200-1800; Thurs and Fri 1200-2100. Free Fri after 1800.Admission charge.
Zoos Miami MetroZoo, just south of Miami, is a state-of-the-art cageless zoo, with over 1,500 animals from more than 310 species roaming the 116-hectare (290-acre) grounds, separated by moats from spectators. Wildlife shows, a petting zoo, tram tours, monorail, gift shops, food courts and a playground provide fun for all the family. MetroZoo has also won a number of awards for its successful breeding of rare and endangered animal species. The zoo's newest exhibit, Tropical America, is scheduled to open in 2008. It will feature jaguars, anacondas, giant river otters, harpy eagles and stingray touch tanks. At Monkey Jungle, the humans are kept in caged walkways while the primates roam

freely. Here, visitors can see North America's first colony of wild monkeys, crab-eating monkeys, diving for treats and hundreds of other exotic primates in lush, tropical jungle surroundings. Hundreds of species of native plants were imported from the Amazon to recreate a natural Amazon rainforest environment. The relocated Parrot Jungle and Gardens, now on its own island between Miami and Miami Beach, is a unique bird sanctuary-cum-botanical garden with more than 1,100 birds and 100 plant varieties, together with alligators, giant tortoises and apes. Spectacular trained bird shows run throughout the day and children can help hand-feed the birds, hold one of the free-flying macaws or play with the animals at the petting zoo. The latest attraction is the Hippo, a 51.2m (168ft) water slide.

Miami MetroZoo 12400 SW 152nd Street (Coral Reef Drive), Richmond Heights Tel: (305) 251 0400. Website: www.miamimetrozoo.com Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730 (last entry at 1600). Admission charge. Monkey Jungle 14805 SW 216th Street Tel: (305) 235 1611. Website: www.monkeyjungle.com Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (last entry at 1600). Admission charge. Parrot Jungle and Gardens Watson Island, off I-395 MacArthur Causeway Tel: (305) 400 7000. Website: www.parrotjungle.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last entry at 1700). Admission charge.
Shopping Shopping opportunities abound in Miami, with a broad assortment of facilities ranging from sophisticated malls to small specialist boutiques. Miracle Mile in Coral Gables has quality galleries, boutiques and department stores, while the 6.4-hectare (16-acre) waterfront Bayside Marketplace, in downtown Miami, offers an unusual mix of retail shops and local artisan stalls.

Other key areas are the funky boutiques of South Beach (most notably the Lincoln Road shopping district, nicknamed the Fifth Avenue of the South'), The Gallery at CocoWalk (see Coconut Grove in Key Attractions) the exclusive Streets of Mayfair shopping centres in Coconut Grove and the numerous malls scattered about Greater Miami. A stretch of Collins Avenue, between Sixth and Eighth Streets, in South Beach, has a handful of local boutiques and medium-price chain stores like Banana Republic, Urban Outfitters and A/X Armani Exchange. For chic interiors and objects for the home, nothing surpasses the Miami Design District (NE 36th to NE 41st Streets, between NE Second Avenue and North Miami Avenue), where high-end dcor and furniture shops are open to the public. Aventura Mall, 19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura, is one of the most popular malls, featuring Macy's, Bloomingdale's, Sears, JC Penney and over 200 smaller shops. Bal Harbour, 9700 Collins Avenue (see Miami Beach in Key Attractions), is renowned for its high-end designer boutiques, such as Gucci and Tiffany. Sawgrass Mills, 12801 West Sunrise Boulevard, in Fort Lauderdale, is the place to shop for bargains - it is the world's largest outlet mall with more than 350 discounted brandname stores. Most malls are open Monday to Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800. Most supermarkets open daily 0800-2200, although some are open 24 hours. Sales taxes are 7% on all goods - and there is no system for claiming this back. Credit cards are widely accepted.

New York Mini Guide

The great metropolis of the USA, New York casts a long shadow over the cities of the world. Besides being a global financial capital, the urban island of Manhattan is an unrivalled dynamo for the arts, making it one of the world's great cultural centres. The restless city moves at a frenetic pace, ever on the edge of invention. Its creativity has secured the reputation of its venerated restaurants, chic nightspots and cuttingedge theatre. Architectural masterpieces abound, with Manhattan a veritable drawing board for the great architects of the 20th century. New York has always been a city of the world with multinational, multicultural

inhabitants. Residents from some 170-odd foreign countries, speaking over 130 languages, call Gotham home. Like millions of immigrants who came before them, they help make the city what it is today, working among the 20,000 restaurants, 10,000 stores and 150 museums scattered about the metropolis. The epicentre of New York life always has been the island of Manhattan, which is surrounded by four other distinct city boroughs (the Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens and Staten Island) all of which have their own character and attractions. The first European settlement on Manhattan was by the Dutch, during the 1620s. They named the city New Amsterdam. In 1664, the British took over and renamed it New York. The settlement rapidly flourished, expanding from south to north along the island. Over the next few centuries, Manhattan rapidly developed into the USA's economic and cultural capital, housing an entire world within its 58 sq km (23 sq miles). Today, New York still grapples with the events of 11 September 2001, when the USA suffered its worst ever terrorist attack. Although New Yorkers will never forget that day, the city has regained its vitality, and marches forward to confront a new set of issues (among them, making the city 'greener' in the face of global warming). After years of wrangling, construction finally began in 2006 on the 541m (1,775ft) Freedom Tower (a name that strikes many New Yorkers as rather Orwellian), which will rise above the former site of the World Trade Center. New York is an excellent place to visit at any time of year, although it is particularly pleasant during the spring and autumn, when temperatures hover around 21C (70F). New York winters tend to be unpredictable, although cold temperatures bring less snow here than to other nearby cities, while summers are hot and muggy, often lasting until September.

City Statistics
Location: New York State (NY). Dialling code: 1. Population: 8.2 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November).

Electricity: 110-120 volts, 60Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 0C (32F). Average July temperatures: 25C (77F). Annual rainfall: 1,200mm (47.3 inches).

Sightseeing
Most tourists focus on Manhattan, where the iconic attractions are located. The remaining four boroughs are primarily residential (the Bronx to the north, Queens to the east, Brooklyn to the southeast and Staten Island to the southwest), although it's worthwhile exploring them all - particularly Brooklyn. Mostly flat and easily navigated, Manhattan itself is great for walking, with the excellent subway system handy for longer hops between attractions. The city is packed with things to do and places to see - each street and neighbourhood offers its own varied sights and flavours. Top attractions, like the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building, are world renowned, but there are enough less heralded places to fill weeks of sightseeing. Manhattan has many distinct neighbourhoods that are worth exploring, from the ritzy shopping and residential districts uptown, to the financial district of downtown, taking in the villages in between. Soho (which got its name because it is south of Houston Street, pronounced HOW-stun) is famous for its shopping. Greenwich Village traditionally contains a literary and gay community and has the quaint bookstores and cafes to go with it. The young-and-hip East Village retains its edginess, which is reflected in its quirky shops, record stores, nightclubs and drinking spots. Historical Lower East Side, once an immigrant neighbourhood, is now filled with boutiques and vintage shops, nightclubs and restaurants. Chelsea, the centre of the city's gallery scene, is another gay-friendly neighbourhood. Away from the city, Long Island and a number of city beaches provide an escape on hot and humid summer days. Tourist Information

NYC & Company - Convention and Visitors Bureau

810 Seventh Avenue, between 52nd and 53rd Streets Tel: (212) 484 1222. Website: www.nycvisit.com or www.nyc.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat-Sun 0830-1700.
Visitor Information Kiosks NYC Heritage Tourism Center

Southern tip of City Hall Park on the Broadway sidewalk at Park Row Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun and holidays 1000-1700. Passes
The City Pass (tel: (208) 787 4300 or 1 888 330 5008; website: www.citypass.com) offers a combined ticket to selected New York attractions, including the American Museum of Natural History, the Empire State Building Observatory, Guggenheim Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art and either Circle Line Sightseeing Cruises or the Statue of Liberty plus Ellis Island. The pass is valid for nine days and is available for purchase at any of the attractions or online. Key Attractions The Statue of Liberty The ultimate symbol of the American Dream, Lady Liberty, standing majestically over New York Harbor, is probably the most famous landmark in America. The people of France donated the statue to the United States in 1886, to commemorate the alliance of the two countries during the American Revolution. It was the first sight of the New World to be seen by the 12 million immigrants who passed through Ellis Island, the country's principal immigration centre, in the early and mid 20th century. Nowadays, the crown and torch are not accessible to visitors, but visitors can view the statue through a glass ceiling and walk out onto the observation deck. Park rangers give guided tours and answer questions. Liberty Island, New York Harbour Tel: (212) 363 3200 (information) or 1 877 523 9849/LADY TIX (tickets). Website: www.nps.gov/stli (information) or www.statuecruises.com (tickets) Opening hours: Current hours are daily 0930-1700, but check the website for changes. Free admission, but there are only a limited number of tickets. Ellis Island Immigration Museum The relatives of over 40% of families living in the United States of America passed

through this historical immigration station, which operated from 1892 to 1954. Now a national monument and museum, the Ellis Island Immigration Museum has over 30 galleries related to the American immigrant experience. Tours educate visitors about how undesirables' were weeded out and separated from their families in the Registry Room, after month-long ordeals on often over-crowded boats. For a small fee, visitors can search the Ellis Island archives by computer in the popular American Family Immigration Center for information on their ancestors. Audio tours are available. Private Ellis Island tours can be booked with Ellis Island Tours (tel: (212) 229 0202; website: www.ellisislandtours.com). Ellis Island, New York Harbour Tel: (212) 363 3200. Website: www.ellisisland.com or www.ellisisland.org or www.nps.gov/elis Opening hours: Daily 0930-1715, but there are extended hours during the summer. Free admission. World Trade Center - Ground Zero In 2006, construction finally began on the 541m (1,776ft) Freedom Tower, designed by Studio Daniel Libeskind to replace the 110-storey towers at the site of the former World Trade Center, which were destroyed on 11 September 2001. The new structure will integrate portions of a remaining slurry wall (strong enough to hold back the Hudson River). A slightly recessed public space, known as the bathtub, will provide the setting for a memorial and a museum. Although the complex's very existence will memorialise the tragedy, each year on 11 September, the sun will shine without a shadow on the Wedge of Light piazza. The best and least depressing view of the site is from the staircase inside the Winter Garden at the World Financial Center. Next door, in the American Express Building there is a touching memorial (a round pool with tears dripping from the ceiling) for the 11 American Express employees who lost their lives in the tragedy. Lower Manhattan (on the west side) Tel: (212) 962 2300. Website: www.renewnyc.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Brooklyn Bridge Dubbed the eighth wonder of the world when it was completed after 30 years of

construction in 1883, John Augustus Roebling's design remains a masterful feat of engineering. One of the world's first steel wire suspension bridges (and at one time one of the world's longest) links Manhattan to Brooklyn, over the East River. The bridge's mile-long wooden promenade, located above the car traffic, is open to pedestrians and cyclists and offers stunning views of the city. Park Row Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Empire State Building Immortalised by Hollywood cinema (from King Kong and Fay Wray to Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan and the latest King Kong movie) this stunning skyscraper is now once again the city's tallest building. Completed in 1931, the 102-storey Empire State Building is a wonderful example of art deco period architecture and the observatories on the 86th and 102nd floors offer magical and spectacular views of the city; the 86th floor deck is open air. Each night, the top 31 storeys are illuminated with a colour that reflects the season or holiday. The New York Skyride, on the second floor, features a video and a motion-simulator ride around and above NYC's attractions. 350 Fifth Avenue at East 34th Street Tel: (212) 736 3100. Website: www.esbnyc.com and www.skyride.com Opening hours: Daily 0800-0200, last elevator ascends at 0115. For security reasons, all visitors must use the main entrance on Fifth Avenue between 33rd and 34th Streets. Admission charge. Rockefeller Center Built in 1932-40, the Rockefeller Center is a masterpiece of urban design. The best approach is from the Channel Gardens, opposite Saks on Fifth Avenue (a popular lunchtime haunt flanked with shops and services) to arrive at the focal point of the complex, the sunken plaza, used as an ice-skating rink in winter and an open-air restaurant in summer. Behind this, the sumptuous GE building dominates the scene with its art deco ambience both inside and out. The Rockefeller Center is home to NBC, Radio City Music Hall and Christie's Auction House. NBC Studio tours, lasting one and a half hours, are available and points of interest include the Conan Show and the Saturday Night Live studio. The Art and Architectural Tour weaves around the centre's various art deco buildings, examining the great Jos Maria Sert mural, the Prometheus, the Atlas statues, the skating rink area, and the Channel Gardens among other features.

Fifth Avenue, 47th Street to 52nd Street Tel: (212) 332 6868 or 632 3975. Website: www.rockefellercenter.com Admission charge. Top of the Rock Originally inspired by the slick designs of the grand ocean liners, the Rockefeller Center's observation deck, which first opened in 1933, was renovated and reopened in 2005 following a 20-year closure. The deckchairs upon which New Yorkers once relaxed to escape the bustle below may be long gone, but the exceptional views remain. From the 70th floor, 260m (850ft) above street level, the unobstructed 360-degree vista takes in the best of the city's landmarks, including the Brooklyn Bridge, the Empire State Building, the Chrysler Building and Central Park. Hands-on exhibits keep visitors busy on the mezzanine floor. 30 Rockefeller Plaza, 50th Street entrance, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues Tel: 1 877 692 7625/NYC ROCK or (212) 698 2000. Website: www.topoftherocknyc.com Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400 (last lift up at 2400). Admission charge. Museum of Modern Art Founded by Abby Aldrich Rockefeller, John D Rockefeller II's wife, the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), houses the most important modern art collection in the USA, covering a variety of media from the late 19th and 20th centuries, with impressive touring exhibitions. Some of the most prominent features of architect Taniguchi's redesign include a lobby that connects 53rd and 54th streets; an atrium that soars 33.5m (110ft) above street level; and innovative glass curtain walls that provide views of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden and the vibrant midtown surroundings. The new MoMA (redesigned in 2004) also features a new gallery devoted to contemporary art and another for new media. Building materials such as glass, granite and aluminium add to the building's elegance, and natural light plays a greater role than ever before in the visitor's experience. 11 West 53rd Street, between Fifth and Sixth Streets Tel: (212) 708 9400. Website: www.moma.org Opening hours: Sat-Mon and Wed-Thurs 1030-1730, Fri 1030-2000 (extended during

some shows), closed Tues. Admission charge. Solomon R Guggenheim Museum The Guggenheim Museum, a seven-storey conical building designed by US master architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is worth visiting if only for the building alone. Opened in 1959, its design represented a new way to view art and was a radical departure from other institutions of its kind. Visitors ascend to the top floor via escalator and descend at their own pace on a continuous, circular ramp. The open rotunda makes it possible to see many levels and exhibits simultaneously. The Guggenheim's acclaimed collection consists of late 19th- and 20th-century art works, many of which came from the private collection of Solomon's niece, Peggy Guggenheim. 1071 Fifth Avenue, at 89th Street Tel: (212) 423 3500. Website: www.guggenheim.org Opening hours: Sat-Wed 1000-1745, Fri and 1000-1945, closed Thurs. Admission charge. Metropolitan Museum of Art The Met,' a most cherished New York institution, is home to more than two million works of art. It opened in 1870 with a modest collection of 174 European paintings and has grown to be the largest art museum in the western hemisphere. Now its collected works span 5,000 years of culture and the museum is home to some 2,500 of the finest paintings which include Vermeers, Rembrandts, Impressionists and Post-Impressionists as well as Renaissance, African, Asian, and Islamic art. It is believed that its 36,000 pieces of Egyptian art is the greatest outside of Cairo. It is impossible to see everything in the museum in one visit, and because of its popularity, the Met gets extremely crowded on weekends. 1000 Fifth Avenue, at 82nd Street Tel: (212) 535 7710. Website: www.metmuseum.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1730, Fri-Sat 0930-2100, closed Mon. Admission charge. Central Park New York's famous green lung, Central Park, is a magnificent city sanctuary situated in the centre of Manhattan. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, it

opened in 1876 and now offers numerous recreational and cultural outlets. The Belvedere Castle (a stone castle built on Vista Rock in the middle of the park at the 79th Street Transverse) offers excellent views from its lookout, while the Shakespeare Garden, just west of the castle, contains flowers and herbs mentioned in the Bard's plays. The Central Park Conservancy offers various free walking tours of the park. There is also a theatre and sports facilities, including tennis courts, ice rinks and lakes, in addition to the celebrated Central Park Zoo. Considered to be one of the world's most appealing small zoos, the latter has exhibits for each of the world's major environments and houses smaller animals, such as monkeys and penguins. The Tisch Children's Zoo, across East 65th Street, is a hands-on animal garden where petting domestic animals, such as goats and pigs, is permitted. The beautifully landscaped Central Garden and Sea Lion Pool is flanked on three sides by a glass-roofed colonnade, making it accessible even in wet weather. It is considered unwise to visit Central Park after dark, except for events such as ice skating, carriage rides or Summerstage (see Special Events). From 59th Street to 110th Street Tel: (212) 310 6600 or 360 2726 (walking tours hot line). Website: www.centralparknyc.org Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (park); daily 1000-1630 (visitor centre). Free admission (charge for walking tours and Summerstage). Belvedere Castle Mid Park at 79th Street Tel: (212) 772 0210. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Free admission. Central Park Zoo 830 Fifth Avenue and East 64th Street Tel: (212) 439 6500. Website: http://nyzoosandaquarium.com/cpz Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat-Sun and holidays 1000-1730 (22 Mar-31 Oct); daily 1000-1630 (1 Nov-21 Mar). Admission charge. Shopping A city famous for its sartorial elegance and Bohemian chic, New York is a shopper's paradise, hawking everything from cutting-edge designer fashions to flea market bargains in addition to foods and goods from every corner of the globe. With a little

hunting, widespread discounting on everything from electronic goods to high-end fashion is available. The smartest shops are located on Madison Avenue, where most top designers have flagship stores. Nearby, Fifth Avenue is a magnet for the label conscious and well heeled, with stores like Tiffany & Co, 727 Fifth Avenue, serving as neighbourhood icons. The multi-level mall at the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle houses a variety of upscale shops. Famous department stores include Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Avenue, Macy's, Herald Square, Bloomingdale's, 1000 Third Avenue, at 59th Street, and Barney's, 660 Madison Avenue, at 61st Street, which is the trendiest of this retail crop. Soho is the most European of New York's neighbourhoods, with high-end clothing boutiques and shoe stores, art galleries, spas, as well as modern furniture showrooms. The East Village and the Lower East Side harbour street fashion and cutting-edge young designers, with vintage shops and music stores intermingling with designer boutiques and eclectic outlets. Discount shops selling authentic American goods, such as Levi's, are located throughout the city, particularly along Broadway, between Houston Street and 14th Street. There are numerous markets to appeal to bargain hunters. On weekends, the Antiques Garage Flea Market, 112 West 25th Street (between Sixth and Seventh Avenues), set on two levels of a parking garage, spreads a riotous assortment of vintage clothing, jewellery, artwork and more. Along Broadway and around Soho, there are also street vendors that hawk anything from artwork to clothing and knockoffs of famous purse designers such as Burberry and Louis Vuitton. Many green markets', selling locally grown produce, fresh fish, home-made desserts and breads, are located around the city, the most central of which is at Union Square, opening on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 0800-1800. Shopping hours depend on the neighbourhood. Business areas, such as Wall Street, open as early as 0800, while shops in areas such as Soho and the East Village open late at 1200. Many stay open until at least 1900. Department stores are open on average Monday to Saturday 1000-2000 and Sunday 1200-1800. In New York, everything but life's most basic necessities is taxable and this includes the sales tax of 8.375% on all consumer goods (clothes and shoes, however, are taxed at a lower rate - no tax for items under US$110, 4.375% for items over US$110). Visitors to New York are unable to claim a tax refund for goods purchased.

Orlando Mini Guide

There is no disguising the fact Orlando is a city built on theme parks - lots of them. Until 1966, there was precious little here in central Florida, but growth has spiralled thanks to a huge influx of tourists following the arrival of Walt Disney World Resort. From the original Magic Kingdom, which opened in 1971 after a five-year building programme, Disney has added three more theme parks, two water parks and a host of associated development, including hotels, shops and golf courses to make it a true World' resort. With Disney setting the example, SeaWorld (three theme parks) and Universal (two) have added to Orlando's reputation as the family entertainment capital of the world. Between them, they draw nearly than 50 million visitors every year, and that has meant a huge growth in associated hotels, restaurants and shops, plus a host of smaller-scale attractions. However, this young city has also developed its own identity, with a number of hightech industries relocating here. The downtown area is fast developing yuppie overtones and there are ambitious plans to become a major cultural centre. The city is also America's number two convention location. Having said that, the main attraction for 99% of visitors remains the theme parks, and the likes of the nearby Kennedy Space Center. And, in order to attract the all-important repeat visitors, Orlando has become adept at re-inventing itself and providing new attractions at regular intervals. City Statistics

Location: Florida, southeastern USA. Dialling code: 1 (also required within America, as well as the city code, when dialling from one city to another). Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November). Electricity: 110 volts AC; standard two-pin plugs are used. Average January temperatures: 22C (71F).

Average July temperatures: 33C (92F). Annual rainfall: 1,280mm (50.1 inches).

Sightseeing
Just about everything in Orlando starts with Walt Disney World Resort. Almost a city in its own right, this 111-sq-km (43-sq-mile) resort wonderland boasts four theme parks and a host of other attractions. You can easily spend a week or more exploring the four parks, and while most of it is firmly family orientated, there is plenty to amuse and entertain adults. Outside Disney, the International Drive area is the other main draw. Both SeaWorld Orlando (which has its flagship main park, an exclusive Caribbean-themed hands-on dolphin park, and a brand new water park) and the Universal Orlando Resort (which consists of two theme parks and a dining/shopping/entertainment district) are located here, along with a raft of smaller-scale attractions like Wet n Wild water park, Skull Kingdom haunted house, Ripley's Believe It Or Not museum and a host of good restaurants and shops. Just to the south is Kissimmee, which adds more attractions and some more natural diversions, like airboat rides, horse riding, tremendous mini golf, fishing and hiking. Tourist Information Orlando/Orange County Convention & Visitor Bureau (CVB) Suite 100, 6700 Forum Drive Tel: (407) 363 5872. Website: www.orlandoinfo.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. The CVB also has an Official Visitor Center, open seven days a week, offering attraction tickets, maps, hotel offers and other discounts. Visitor Center Suite 101, 8723 International Drive Tel: (407) 363 5872. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1830. Kissimmee Convention & Visitors Bureau 1925 E Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee

Tel: (407) 944 2400. Website: www.floridakiss.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1700 (except major holidays). Passes The Orlando/Orange County CVB offers the free Magicard, with discounts for many of the attractions, restaurants, sports and shops. Download and print online or apply online for home delivery (USA only). Key Attractions Walt Disney World Resort This vast resort combines four superb theme parks (including the essential Magic Kingdom), two water parks, a sports complex, a downtown district of shops, restaurants and nightlife, golf courses, water sports, tennis, spas and over 30 hotels on site, 20 of them themed and Disney owned. Lake Buena Vista Tel: (407) 824 4321. Website: www.disneyworld.com Universal Orlando Resort Another resort development (although only a 10th the size of Disney), Universal offers two more theme parks, three resort hotels and their CityWalk nightlife and shopping district. It also owns the nearby Wet n Wild water park. A Harry Potter-themed area is due to open in late 2009. 1000 Universal Studios Plaza Tel: (407) 363 8000. Website: www.universalorlando.com SeaWorld Orlando The marine life park is hugely popular in Orlando with its mix of dolphin and whale shows, aquariums and other animal habitats, rides and other live entertainment. Opened in 2008, Aquatica is SeaWorld's entry in the growing list of Orlando swimming-oriented water parks, this one boasting live fish and marine mammals. 7007 SeaWorld Drive Tel: (407) 351 3600. Website: www.seaworld.com/orlando

Discovery Cove An exclusive swim-with-dolphins park next door to SeaWorld, this is available to just 1,000 guests daily and features realistic marine environments and other animal encounters as well as a laid-back high-class resort style. 6000 Discovery Cove Way Tel: (407) 370 1280. Website: www.discoverycove.com Kennedy Space Center Just a 50-minute drive east of Orlando, the home of NASA offers daily bus tours of the space centre, static and hands-on exhibits, astronaut encounters and giant-screen film shows. The newest attraction, the Shuttle Launch Experience, simulates the sights, sounds and sensations of a launch. Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, State Road 405 Tel: (321) 449 4444. Website: www.kennedyspacecenter.com Shopping Shopping in Orlando is truly world class, with every kind of retail outlet known to man, from flea markets to tourist traps to magnificent designer-label malls. The discount outlet shopping plazas are particularly common here and boast some of the best value. However, they are spread out far and wide and there is no central shopping area as such, although the 19km (6-mile) length of International Drive comes closest to being a shopping area as it is home to numerous plazas of the gift shop variety, plus two touristorientated shopping and dining centres, The Mercado and Pointe Orlando, which both offer some one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants. The essential shopping venues, though, are the Orlando Premium Outlets, 8200 Vineland Avenue, just off International Drive, for a good range of big-name brands at discount prices; Prime Outlets Orlando (formerly Belz Outlets0, 5401 West Oak Ridge Road at the top of International Drive, for more of the same; Lake Buena Vista Factory Stores, 15767 South Apopka-Vineland Road, for an equally tempting range price-wise; the huge Florida Mall, 8001 South Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando's largest mall; Mall at Millenia, 4200 Conroy Road, just off motorway I-4, which is the newest and smartest mall in Florida; and Festival Bay, 5250 International Drive, an entertainment centre with restaurants, mini-golf, skateboarding and cinemas, plus some good one-off shops.

Individual shops worth looking out for are the eclectic art world of Hoypoloi (in Downtown Disney's West Side) and in Winter Park, Park Avenue features clothing boutiques like the trendy Tuni, 301 South Park Avenue, or Shou'Ture, 339 South Park Avenue, for fashion-forward shoes and a quick pedicure to boot. Also worth checking out are Timothy's Gallery, 236 North Park Avenue, with ceramics, jewellery and home accessories; Golf Almighty, 501 South Park Avenue, for your golfing needs; and Doggie Door, 356 South Park Avenue, when you need a treat for the canine back home.

Beirut Mini Guide Lebanon's diverse patchwork of Mediterranean-lapped coast, rugged alpine peaks and green, fertile valleys is packed into a parcel of land some 225km (140 miles) long and 46km (29 miles) wide. Once known as the Paris of the East', Beirut commands a magnificent position, thrust into the Mediterranean. Behind the city are towering mountains, visible when the traffic haze settles down. The Corniche seafront boasts beaches, restaurants, theatres and a dazzling variety of shops and restaurants. Beirut suffered greatly from Lebanon's 16-year civil war, but following an impressive and ongoing process of reconstruction, the city was poised to become one of the most popular tourist and business destinations in the Middle East. Outside of the capital, several UNESCO World Heritage Sites await, many of which reflect the country's various ancient civilizations. Phoenician tombs, Roman temples, Crusader castles and Mamlouk mosques can be found in the cities and ruins of Baalbeck, Byblos and Tyre. The town of Aanjar in the Bekaa Valley contains an Umayyad site from the 8th century - a unique historical example of a commercial centre that was inland. Within the mountainous interior of the Kadisha Valley, ancient monasteries and churches can be seen, including a chapel built into the rock face. Top Things To Do when there Visit the spectacular Jeita caverns, around 20km (13 miles) north of Beirut. On two levels, the lower gallery includes an underground waterway which can be visited by boat. Enjoy delicious Lebanese food in the port area of Al Mina, where many seafood restaurants and fish markets can be found. Go scuba-diving and snorkelling in the waters near the ancient city of Tyre. Divers can explore some interesting underwater archaelogical ruins. Try out the watersports on offer, which include waterskiing and sailing. Swimming is also popular and many beaches have freshwater pools provided to supplement the sea. Ski amidst a Mediterranean backdrop in Lebanon's many mountain resorts, such as Bakish, The Cedars, Faqra, Faraya, Laklouk and Zarour, which offer excellent accommodation and facilities (website: www.skileb.com). Whilst there,

explore these mountains and gorges. They present excellent terrain for hiking. Visit the Gibran Museum in Besharre (website: www.kahlil.org/museum). Best known as the birthplace of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, author of The Prophet, the town is also a gateway to the Kadisha Valley, a mountainous region famous for its many cedar trees. Enjoy vibrant downtown Beirut (website: www.downtownbeirut.com), expensively refurbished following the civil war. The many arches and sidewalk cafes of Maarad Street lead into Place de l'Etoile, which has a 1930s art-deco clock tower. The Lebanese parliament, another example of Lebanese art-deco architecture, is nearby. Discover the archaeological sites of Tyre (website: http://tyros.leb.net/tyre). Area one contains ruins of the large district of civic buildings, public baths and mosaic streets, whilst area two has an extensive network of Romano-Byzantine roads. Area three contains one of the largest Roman hippodromes ever found. Visit the courtyard and state rooms of Beiteddine, in the Chouf Mountains, which is the site of the palace built by the Amir Basheer in the 19th century. Top Things To See See the neo-Ottoman campus of the American University of Beirut in Hamra, which was founded in 1868 (website: www.aub.edu.lb). Achrafieh, in East Beirut, is the other centre and home to the Universit St Joseph and an increasing number of smart shops and expensive restaurants. Witness the spectacular number of modern buildings and office blocks springing up in Beirut's Central District. Capture the old Beirut in the city's old souks (covered markets) that are being reconstructed in an authentic way. The Turkish bath at Al-Nouzha provides another glimpse of antiquity, whilst the Beirut National Museum is constantly updating its interesting collection (website: www.beirutnationalmuseum.com). See the Pigeon Rocks in Raouche, an increasingly popular district with a lively seaside promenade on the western tip of Beirut. The huge formations stand like sentinels off the coast. Behold Byblos, reputed to be the oldest town in the world (website: http://whc.unesco.org). Excavations have unearthed artefacts dating back to Neolithic times as well as from Canaanite, Phoenician, Hellenistic, Roman and

Crusader periods. Fishing boats and pleasure craft ply the old harbour. Glimpse the sea castle built of stone from Roman remains in the small port city of Sidon. See one of the best-preserved temple areas of the Roman world that is still in existence in Baalbek, near the Syrian border. The columns of the Temple of Jupiter soar behind the complex of several temples.

Food: Food is a Lebanese fixation, with hundreds of varieties of meze to be tried and tasted. For an old school Lebanese feast, day or night, head to the 24-hour Gemaizeh Caf on Gouraud Street, or try Al Majina -- a period Ottoman house on Rue Abel Wahab el-Inglizi that serves Levantine food at its best. Chill out by the sea at the Rawda Caf, where Beirut's arty crowd and local stars can be found kicking back with shisha pipes and games of backgammon. Or for pure indulgence head to Tamaris, run by international superchef Alain Ducasse and specializing solely in desserts. One of the most stylish recent additions to Beiruti dining is Asia on Riad El Solh, a modern rooftop restaurant on top of an office building serving a mix of Asian and western foods. With its beautiful courtyard and retractable roof, Centrale on Saifi Street -- designed by renowned Beiruti architect Bernard Khoury -- is a great place to sit and enjoy.

Rio de Janeiro Mini Guide

An inspiring city where impossibly steep granite mountains rise from the ocean between glorious stretches of golden sand. Brash skyscrapers vie for space with impeccable colonial buildings, and lush forests tumble down hillsides into densely populated residential areas. Its diverse cultures and peoples live in varying degrees of wealth or poverty. Rich exclusive areas stand in stark contrast and close proximity to the slum areas or favelas. But no matter what their background or economic standing, the Cariocas (Rio's residents) are characterised by a passion and enthusiasm for life. The cidade maravilhosa (marvellous city) revels in life, with the beach, football, samba and Carnival the principal diversions. High above all this fun and frivolity are Rio's everpresent landmarks - the statue of Christ the Redeemer on the summit of Corcovado (hunchback) mountain and Sugarloaf with its historic cable car. As well as these twin icons, Rio has a wealth of attractions and activities, plus excellent food, music and entertainment - enough to keep a visitor busy for any length of stay. A natural port of the Baa de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay) in southeast Brazil, the city was founded by the Portuguese on 1 January 1502. They named it Rio de Janeiro (River of January), under the mistaken impression that it was an enormous river mouth. Since then, it has grown to a city of over 6 million people, with a further 5 million in the greater metropolitan area. Migrants find that the city has more than its fair share of social problems. Attempts have been made to curtail crime, but visitors should remain alert to petty thieves. From a record low in 2002, the Brazilian Real has doubled in value against the US Dollar and rallied against other world currencies, so the country is not as cheap as it used to be. However, Brazil is still affordable and gaining in popularity - 2007 saw a 15% increase in visitors, mainly headed for Rio. With Brazil set to host the FIFA World Cup in 2014, that trend is likely to continue. In Rio's summer (December to February), temperatures regularly reach 40C (104F) or more. When the heat is on, tourists should follow the Brazilian example and hit the beach rather than rush around. These months are also peak season - not only are international flights more expensive, but domestic travel and hotels are charged at a premium and get booked up quickly. City Statistics

Location: Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Dialling code: 55. Population: 6,136,652 (city). Time zone: GMT - 3 (GMT - 2 from third Sunday in October to third Sunday in March). Electricity: 110 volts or 220 volts, 60 or 50Hz; two round-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 30C (86F). Average July temperatures: 25C (77F). Annual rainfall: 1,086mm (42.4 inches).

Sightseeing
Rio's main attraction is its scenery. There is a stunning view at every turn, as steep, granite mountains (like Corcovado and Po de Acar) rise dramatically above the Centro skyscrapers and curved golden beaches. And it is on these beaches (the most famous of which are Copacabana and Ipanema) that the energetic and leisurely lifestyle of the Cariocas (Rio's residents) is constantly on show. But the city is also brimming with a wealth of cultural attractions. Rio is divided into three zones: the Centro, Zona Norte (north) and Zona Sul (south). Maracan Stadium is located in Zona Norte. Many of Rio's historic buildings and its museums and galleries are located in and around the Centro. However, Rio's biggest attractions, including its beaches, are found in Zona Sul. Because Rio's districts are spread out, it is best for tourists to take a taxi or public transport to a particular area and then explore it on foot. Although security has been stepped up in many areas, thanks to the increased numbers of tourist police, visitors are still advised to keep their wits about them and carry only the minimum amount of money and possessions required. Tourist Information Riotur - City of Rio de Janeiro Tourism Authority

Rua da Assemblia 10-9, Centro Tel: (21) 2217 7575. Website: www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800.

Tourist Information Centre

Avenida Princesa Isabel 183, Copacabana Tel: (21) 2541 7522. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800. Passes
There are no dedicated tourist passes currently available. Key Attractions Corcovado (Hunchback) The Corcovado (Hunchback) mountain, so named because of its distinctive shape, is home to probably the most memorable and identifying image of the city, that of the Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) statue. Inaugurated in 1931, the iconic statue stands on top of the 710m (2,330ft) mountain and is itself 30m (99ft). The site is best visited by the historic train, which winds its way up a steep track through the forest to a station just below the summit (journey time - 20 minutes). From here, 220 steep steps lead to the summit; alternatively take one of the lifts or escalators. Weather permitting, there are stunning views of the city, beaches and the whole bay area below. After dark, floodlights illuminate the statue, providing a dramatic and spectacular sight visible throughout the city. Corcovado Railroad Station Rua Cosme Velho 513, Cosme Velho Tel: (21) 2558 1329. Website: www.corcovado.com.br Opening hours: Daily 0830-1900; first train up 0830, last train down 1830 (departures every 30 minutes). Admission charge includes train and entrance. Po de Acar (Sugar Loaf) This conical mountain vies with the Corcovado for the visitor's vote of best overall panoramic view. Originally called Pau-nh-Aqu (high, pointed peak) by the Tupi Indians, it was renamed Po de Acar (Sugar Loaf) by the Portuguese, who thought the shape of the 394m (1,293ft) granite rock resembled moulds used to set sugar cane. Climbers frequently ascend the rock but the less strenuous and most popular route to the top is by two cable cars - a system that has been in operation since 1912. The present Italian-style cars complete the journey in two stages. The first leg of the ascent takes visitors from Praia Vermelha to a height of 220m (720ft) above sea level, stopping at the summit of Morro da Urca. The second leg completes the journey to the Sugar Loaf over a distance of 750m (2,460ft). The final stop offers fine views of the beaches, the city, the mountains of Tijuca National Park and the islands of Guanabara Bay. Just before sunset is the most dramatic time to arrive. The area also has several, safe, wooded trails, where it is possible to escape the majority of the tourists who frequently

arrive at the summit. Po de Acar cable car station Avenida Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha Tel: (21) 2546 8400. Website: www.bondinho.com.br Opening hours: Daily 0810-2200 (the cable car leaves every 30 minutes or when full). Admission charge. Copacabana A large suburb of Rio, Copacabana is best known for its amazing, wide, sandy beach that stretches for 4km (2.4 miles). The beach is hugely popular with both residents and tourists and usually lies beneath a mass of beautiful and fit bodies. Carioca girls, in minimalist bikinis, bask in the scorching sun alongside families with their youngsters, geriatrics and business people. The beach is always a hive of activity. Displaying the Brazilians' passion for sport, joggers and power walkers use the trademark wavy black and white mosaic path that fringes the beach, cyclists whizz by in the cycle lane and the soccer fields and volleyball courts are in constant use. Strong currents can prove dangerous for swimmers, although an excellent lifeguard system exists. The fishing community of Copacabana only became part of Rio when tunnels were built for the Rio Tramway. In 1923, the Copacabana Palace Hotel was inaugurated and other hotels, nightclubs and casinos attracted the rich and famous during the 1930s and 40s. Nowadays, hotels and apartment blocks dominate the skyline along the busy avenues and crowded beach. It is advisable for visitors to take the very minimum of possessions and money, as the easily identifiable tourist is an obvious target for petty thieves. Ipanema This sophisticated neighbourhood is an enticing blend of beach, bars and boutiques and today, it's much more desirable than the rather faded Copacabana, which nevertheless offers cheaper accommodation, eating and shopping. The area became famous worldwide with the success of the song, The Girl from Ipanema. The song was written by composer Tom Jobim and lyricist and poet Vinicius de Moraes, who were inspired by a local beauty, who walked past the Velosa Bar each day when returning from school. The very bar where they sat, now known as Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema), is a popular meeting place for locals and a place of pilgrimage for visitors. The focus of Ipanema is the beach, which is nestled between Aproador and Leblon beaches, beneath the imposing peak of Pedro Dois Irmos. Like Copacabana, many people visit Ipanema to exercise or lie on the sand and the Aproador is a popular sunset-watching spot. But shopping is also a major pastime and the area boasts a variety of fashionable and expensive outlets. Ipanema is also home to a Sunday arts and crafts market known as the Hippie Fair and workshop museums for jewellery shops Amsterdam Sauer and H Stern (see Shopping).

Centro (Centre) Centro provides a worthwhile break to beach life. One of the main attractions is the square, Praa 15 de Novembro, where the 18th-century Pao Imperial (Imperial Palace) and other grand buildings are located. Another interesting place is the Museu Histrico Nacional (National History Museum), which dates from 1762 and contains a fascinating collection of art, documents, weapons and other assorted artefacts elucidating Brazil's history. Many churches are scattered around the area too. One of the most impressive is the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelria (Church of Our Lady of the Candles), with its domed roof, marble interior, Portuguese wood carvings and fascinating stained-glass windows. The Mosteiro de So Bento (Monastery of St Benedict) is a 17th-century monastery and UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an opulent interior of gilded woodcarvings and historic paintings. Art lovers will appreciate the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts), where paintings by Brazil's most prominent 19th- and 20th-century artists are exhibited along with examples of African and folk art. Pao Imperial (Imperial Palace) Praa 15 de Novembro 48 Tel: (21) 2533 4491. Website: www.pacoimperial.com.br Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1200-1800. Free admission. Museu Histrico Nacional (National History Museum) Praa Marechal ncora Tel: (21) 2240 2092. Website: www.museuhistoriconacional.com.br Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1730, Sat and Sun 1400-1800. Closed Mon. Admission charge. Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelria (Church of our Lady of the Candles) Praa Pio X Tel: (21) 2233 2324. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat and Sun 0900-1300. Free admission. Mosteiro de So Bento (Monastery of St Benedict) Rua Dom Gerardo 68 Tel: (21) 2291 7122. Website: www.osb.org.br Opening hours: Daily 0700-1200 and 1400-1800. Free admission. Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts)

Avenida Rio Branco 199 Tel: (21) 2240 0068. Website: www.mnba.gov.br Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat and Sun 1400-1800. Admission charge; free Sun. Complexo Esportivo do Maracan (Maracan Sporting Complex) Maracan is the epicentre of Brazilian football and a mecca for sports fans from around the world. The Estdio Maracan became the world's biggest stadium, capable of holding around 200,000 people, when it was built to host the 1950 World Cup Final. Tours of the stadium include a visit to the changing rooms, access to the stands for a view of the pitch and the opportunity to stand in the bronzed footprints of Pel. Football is a national obsession and even local matches are oversubscribed. Matches take place here up to three times a week, with evening kick-offs. The atmosphere in the stadium during games is unique to Rio and an experience to remember. The almost Colosseum-like surroundings serve as a fitting venue for a multitude of fireworks, colourful flags, banners and the sounds of samba drums and whistles. Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo, Maracan Tel: (21) 2568 9962. Website: www.suderj.rj.gov.br Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700; match days 0800-1100. Admission charge on non-match days. Shopping People do not generally visit Rio specifically to shop. Typical Brazilian wares are thin on the ground, with shops orientated towards tourists, selling tacky T-shirts and souvenirs. Nevertheless, Rio is the place to invest in good-quality beach- and swimwear, competitively-priced fashion, antiques and jewellery. Brazilian soccer shirts make great gifts. Official shirts are available from sports shops and are of a higher quality and more expensive than the cotton replicas found in clothes shops or on street stalls. The main shopping streets are Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana and Rua Barata Ribeiro in Copacabana, Rua Visconde de Piraj in Ipanema and Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva in Leblon. Rio has over 30 shopping centres located throughout the city, most of which contain supermarkets, department stores, fashion boutiques and music outlets, as well as places to eat. The most central is Rio Sul, Rua Lauro Muller 116, in Botafogo. Other options include the So Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gvea 899, So Conrado, and Shopping Center de Copacabana, Rua Siqueira Campos 143, Copacabana. Rio also has plenty of good bookstores, many with pleasant cafes located inside. One of the best is Livraria da Travessa, with branches at Travessa do Ouvidor 11A, Centro, Avenida Rio Branco 44, Centro, and Rua Visconde de Piraj 462A, Ipanema, where you

can browse the books and international magazines while having a coffee. Good-quality arts and crafts are available at regular outdoor markets, which are colourful and entertaining places for tourists to visit. The Babilnia Hype Fair, at Tribune C of the Brazilian Jockey Club Racetrack, is open most weekends (1400 to 2200) and gathers together over 150 fashion, art and decoration-themed stalls, also featuring music and dance performances. The Hippie Fair every Sunday (0900 to 1700) around the 18th-century Saracuras Fountain in Ipanema featuring handicrafts and artwork is a major attraction for visitors. Rio Antiques Fair, lon Rua do Lavradio, Centro, is held on the first Saturday of every month (1000 to 1800). The market provides an excellent opportunity for treasure hunting on this neoclassical street, which becomes filled with music and was once the home and meeting place for artists, poets, politicians, and writers who have shaped Rio's history. Jewellery shops H Stern, Rua Visconde de Piraj 490, Ipanema, and Amsterdam Sauer, Rua Garcia D'vila, Ipanema, have branches throughout the city, as well as outlets in most of the upmarket hotels, selling intricate and elegant silver, pearl and gemstone designs. Shops are usually open Monday to Friday 0900 to 1900 and Saturday 0900 to 1300, although hours vary according to the location and type of business. Shopping centers are generally open daily 1000 to 2200, although some have more limited opening hours on Sundays. ICMS (sales tax) in shops is 18%. There is no tax refund scheme in Brazil.

MOSCOW MINI GUIDE Europe's most populous city has been a city of boom and bust throughout its turbulent history and Moscow (Moskva) is now enjoying a time of unprecedented growth. In 2006, Forbes magazine ranked Moscow as having the highest number of billionaires in the world second only to Manhattan. Thirty-three of Russia's 36 billionaires live in the city. Much of this wealth has come from the country's rich natural resources - World Bank figures suggest that 25% of Russia's GDP comes from oil and gas. Although there is great wealth Moscow's average salary is still only US$1,100 and poverty becomes more obvious just a short distance from the city centre. Low utility costs and income tax keep down the cost of living for locals. But in 2006, Moscow was named the world's most expensive city for expatriates, finally beating Tokyo to the top spot, thanks to the stable Russian rouble as well as increasing property prices within the city. The influx of petrodollars has transformed the city for everyone, rich or poor, at a breathtaking pace. Changes have happened within the last decade that may develop over a generation in most other industrialized cities. But after many years of communism and the uncertain economic times of the 1990s, Moscow was a city ripe for change. Located in the centre of the East-European plain, the majority of it occupying the valley of the Moskva River, Moscow is the spiritual, political and economic capital of the world's largest country. In recent years it has become as much a magnet for multinational corporations as it has migrants from the former Soviet Republics such as Azerbaijan, Georgia and Kazakhstan. For the larger part of eight centuries, the Kremlin, at the very heart of Moscow, has been the seat of power for the grand princes, tsars and, most recently, presidents, as well as an important religious site. For Westerners, the adjacent Red Square, especially the bulbous, multicoloured domes of St Basil's Cathedral, have been an image synonymous with the Soviet Union and Russian state. Surrounding this centre, Stalin's so-called Seven Sisters (gothic-looking Socialist Realist skyscrapers) humble the individual. But the pre-revolutionary city is still there for all to see in beautiful neo-classical wedding cake' houses and concert halls, such as the Bolshoi Theatre. Most surprisingly of all, there are the underground palaces of the Metro system, the largest and probably the most efficient in the world. Nowadays, the posturing Soviet military driving their tanks through Red Square for the October Revolution Parades have been replaced by the posing of wealthy Muscovites with their shiny new Mercedes Benz. The impressive Stalinist buildings along Tverskaya ulitsa, the main drag leading up to Red Square, now house glitzy Western franchises. The well-heeled new Muscovites may have greeted capitalism with open arms but after the many years of Communist-imposed atheism, many in the Russian capital have enthusiastically embraced their oncebanned Orthodox faith. This is reflected in the restoration of old churches, the rapid construction of new ones and the decision to give the remains of Russia's last tsar, Nicholas II, a Christian burial. After the uncertainty of the Yeltsin era, President Vladimir Putin brought an economic and political stability that made him popular with ordinary Russian people. Under his leadership, wages, living standards and pensions all increased.

But after eight years in office Putin was constitutionally obliged to step down in 2008. He was succeeded in May 2008 by Dmitry Medvedev, his preferred candidate in the March 2008 elections. Despite its dazzling wealth, glitzy shops and conspicuous consumerism, in many ways, Moscow now bears more resemblance to its Soviet-era incarnation and is certainly less free than it was under Yeltsin. Security was tightened severely after tragedies such as the theatre siege in 2002, the suicide bombings a year later and the metro bombing and aircraft hijacks in 2004. In practice this means a heavy police presence on main streets and at public gatherings, and also private security guards and gates at theatres, bars and shops. Police have the power to ask to see ID and those without the right documents and stamps can be fined - tourists are no exception. A great deal of Russia's mineral resources is owned by the state. The wealth generated by these is enabling the government to flex its weight on the international stage by shutting off its gas supply to Europe and reining in the operations of foreign firms such as BP's explorations in Sakhalin - actions that were unthinkable a few years ago. Although ties between the west and Russia warmed, particularly after the 9/11 attacks, the investigation into the poisoning of Alexander Litvinenko may be a watershed that ushers in a cooler period of diplomatic differences. One aspect of the city remains constant and that is the harshness of the Moscow winter. Despite the bitter cold, there is nothing so beautiful as seeing St Basil's Cathedral in the falling snow. In contrast, summer temperatures over 30C (86F) are not unusual. City Statistics Location: Province of Moscow, Russian Federation. Dialling code: 7. Population: 10,425,675 (city). Time zone: GMT + 3 (GMT + 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: - 13C ( - 9F). Average July temperatures: 18C (64F). Annual rainfall: 624mm (24.3 inches). Annual snowfall: 32mm (5.2 inches). Sightseeing The first stops on any tour of Moscow are Red Square and the Kremlin - the heart, not only of the city but also of the country itself. The history of the country is writ large here in the historic centre of Moscow and the seat of Tsarist and Soviet power. The Garden Ring Road circles the city centre and within its boundaries are most of Moscow's major attractions. The Moskva River arcs within this ring, aligning with one of the Kremlin's walls and passing Gorky Park to the southwest. It is worth noting that most museums are closed on Monday. Tourist Information Intourist Travel Agency 150, Prospect Mira Tel: (495) 956 4207.

Website: www.intourist.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1730. Until a few years ago, the Intourist travel company was the state tourist board, however, it is now merely one of many tour agencies that can help with visa applications and package tours. There is no official tourist board for the city or indeed the country, although information and advice is also available from the tourist office in the Metropol Hotel, Teatralny proezd 1/4 (tel: (495) 927 6000), as well as from the embassies. One of the official' Moscow websites (www.moscow-guide.ru, www.moscowcity.com and www.russianmuseums.info) may also be of use to visitors. The Travellers' Yellow Pages (website: www.infoservices.com/moscow/index.html) has good supplementary information, as does Russia Tourism (website: www.russia-tourism.ru). Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Moscow. Key Attractions Kremlin The heart of Moscow and of the Russian State itself, the Kremlin (literally meaning fortified town') is a walled fortress dating back to the city's founding in 1147 (although the oldest extant walls and churches date from the 15th and 16th centuries). From 1276 to 1712, it was the seat of government for the grand princes and tsars, from 1918 to the present, the Communist government; it is inextricably linked to most of Russia's most monumental events - an importance reflected in its UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The red-brick walls and towers enclose a number of churches and palaces and, once past the soviet-era Palace of Congresses, the visitor will find a pleasing ensemble around the main square. The Uspensky Sobor (Assumption Cathedral) is the largest of the churches. It was the burial place for Orthodox patriarchs and was used for the coronations of tsars. The zakomary (arched gables) are a visual extension of the vaulting within the cathedral. The pretty Blagoveshchensky Sobor (Annunciation Cathedral), with its nine glittering copper-gilt domes, was the private chapel of the tsars. Ivan the Terrible added the Grosnenskiy Porch, because he was refused entry after contravening church doctrine by marrying for a fourth time. Archangelsky Sobor (Cathedral of the Archangel Michael), although built in 1505, houses the remains of the grand princes and tsars who reigned from 1325 to 1696. The Armoury Museum and Diamond Fund are worth visiting for the state and church treasures, including Faberg eggs (in the former) and the 180-carat diamond given to Catherine the Great (in the latter). Also within the Kremlin are the Tsar Cannon and Tsar Bell, both the largest of their kind (40 and 200 tonnes, respectively) and neither one used for its intended purpose. English-speaking guides will often approach tourists outside the ticket office at the Kutafiya Tower in the Alexandrovsky Gardens - there is no set price so bargaining is necessary. The Kremlin sometimes closes without notice for state or security purposes. For a taste of modern Russia's penchant for the pomp of the Soviet Union, catch the changing of the guard at the Flame of the Unknown Soldier just inside the gates of Alexandrovsky Gardens. Every hour in the summer and half-hourly in the winter, the guards change over in a ceremony which replaced the changing of the guard outside Lenin's mausoleum. Krasnaya ploshchad (Red Square) Tel: (495) 203 0349 or 202 3776. Website: www.kremlin.museum.ru Opening hours: Fri-Wed 0900-1630. Admission charge. Krasnaya Ploshchad (Red Square)

The site of large May Day parades during the Soviet era and a market before that, Red Square (although krasnaya means beautiful' in Old Russian) is a dramatic 700m- (2,300ft-) long space. The square is dominated by the walls and towers of the Kremlin on one side, which is also where you will find Lenin's Mausoleum, and the faade of the newly and beautifully restored GUM department store on the other (two icons to communism and capitalism on opposing sides) as though ideologies were squaring up to each other. Red Square is sometimes closed without notice. In 1990, Red Square and the Kremlin were designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. Krasnaya ploshchad Pokrovsky Sobor (St Basil's Cathedral) St Basil's multicoloured onion domes are the enduring iconic image of Moscow like no other in the capital. Each dome has its own distinctive coloured pattern of spikes and spirals atop red brick towers the effect of the ensemble is stunning. Inside each of the nine towers is a chapel, but no public services are held here. An impressive combination of iconography and subtle wall paintings await the visitor. It was built in the 1550s, to commemorate Ivan the Terrible's victory over the Mongols at Kazan. Legend has it that the notoriously wicked tsar ordered its architect Postnik Yaklovev to be blinded to prevent him creating anything as beautiful again. Krasnaya ploshchad 4 Tel: (495) 298 3304. Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1630. Admission charge. Mavzoley Lenina (Lenin's Mausoleum) Lenin's Mausoleum, a cubic, Russian avant-garde structure built of red and black granite, is on Red Square at the eastern side of the Kremlin. Inside is a crystal casket containing the preserved body of Vladimir Illych Lenin who died in 1924, the same year his embalmed body was installed in the mausoleum. Boris Yeltsin appeared keen to have this symbol of the Soviet Union removed, but under Vladimir Putin's presidency, there seems to be a commitment to keeping Lenin's waxy body, dressed in a navy suit and polka dot tie, on show to the public. Although the Soviet Union is a fading memory, visitors are expected to be extremely respectful (no hats, cameras or hands in pockets) when visiting the Soviet Union's founder. As with Red Square, the mausoleum often closes without notice. His body is also removed from public viewing some time over the winter months (Dec-Feb) for restoration that usually lasts about 6 weeks. Krasnaya ploshchad Opening hours: Daily except Monday and Friday 1000-1300. Admission charge State Historical Museum The State Historical Museum is housed in the red-brick building at the opposite end of Red Square to St Basil's Cathedral. Golden eagles, a symbol adopted by the state in the Putin era, adorn its spires in contrast to the red stars of Venetian glass on the Kremlin's towers. Permanent exhibitions feature historical artifacts from all over Russia including stone, bronze and iron age tools, a 5,000 year old longboat that was unearthed beside the River Volga, prints of Moscow from the 15th to 17th centuries and armour and weapons from the same period. Many other well-curated exhibits from Siberia, Altay and Kievan Rus reflect the rich cultural and ethnic diversity of the country. As the descriptions are all in Russian it is well worth paying a little extra for an audio guide in English or even booking a guided tour, which should be arranged well in advance. The museum also hosts excellent temporary exhibitions on

more contemporary subjects. 1/2 Red Square Tel: (495) 692 4019/5660 or (495) 292 6817 for guided tours. Website: www.shm.ru (Russian only) Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1800; closed first Monday of the month. Admission charge. Muzey Izobrazitelnykh Iskusstv im AS Pushkina (Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts) Second only in reputation within Russia to the Hermitage in St Petersburg, the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts contains a rich collection of artworks, ranging from an Egyptian exhibit to Impressionist (notably Claude Monet) and Post-Impressionist paintings. Audio tours are available for a fee. Visitors should hold onto their admission tickets - they are also valid for the adjacent Museum of Private Collections, which displays 19th- and 20th-century Russian and foreign art. Volkhonka ulitsa 12 Tel: (495) 203 7998/9578. Website: www.museum.ru/gmii Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. Tretyakov Galereya (Tretyakov Gallery) The most important collection of traditional Russian painting in the world resides here. The extensive collection of icons is well worth seeing, as it covers the development of this art form from early Byzantine times to the more developed Russian schools of the 17th century. The most famous of these icons is the 12th-century Vladimir Virgin and there are also works by Theophanes the Greek, Dionysius and Andrey Rublyov - some of Russia's greatest icon painters. The gallery's collection of paintings, sculptures and graphics covers Russian art from the 18th to early 20th centuries. Lavrushensky perulok 10/12 Tel: (495) 230 7788 or 951 1362. Website: www.tretyakov.ru Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1930. Admission charge. Novodevichy Monastyr (Novodevichy Convent) Founded in 1524, by Grand Prince Vassily III (although the present towers and walls date from 168587), the Novodevichy Convent contains the Sobor Smolensk Bogomateri (Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk), with its distinctive bell tower dating from 1690. The cathedral itself was built in 1525 and features 16th-century frescoes, as well as a magnificent late 17th-century iconostasis. The convent, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a place of exile for noblewomen in mourning or disfavour, including Sophia, Peter the Great's sister, who instigated a coup against him from here in 1698. The adjacent Novodevichy Cemetery contains the graves of distinguished Muscovites, including Nikita Krushchev (the only Soviet leader buried outside the Kremlin), Nikolai Gogol, Sergei Prokofiev and Anton Chekhov. Novodevichy proezd 1 Tel: (495) 246 8526. Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700; closed first Monday of the month. Admission charge.

Moscow Metro and Metro Museum Busier than New York's subway and London's underground combined, the Moscow Metro, built at a cost of the lives of 20,000 labourers, transports eight million passengers a day, with a surprising degree of efficiency. Up and running just four years after building started in 1931, the Metro is one of the Communist regime's few lasting achievements. The stations themselves are the attraction; their unique designs are often palatial and provide an introduction to the development of Soviet art and architecture over more than half a century. They were also designed to double-up as bomb shelters. Mayakovskaya Station has a central hall with a ceiling of Socialist Realist mosaics supported by stainless steel and red marble columns. In Revolyutsii ploshchad, bronze sculptures of Red Army soldiers hold up the arches in the passageways. Komsomolskaya (1950s), the busiest station in Moscow, has upper walk-through galleries and offers a Russian history lesson in the mosaics near the Circle Line platforms. The Metro Museum displays interesting exhibits such as a driver's cab and photographs from the 1930s showing cheerful Komsomol volunteers. But do not expect to see much about those who died building some of the deepest underground stations in the world. Metro Museum Ulitsa Khamovnichesky Val 36, 3rd floor Tel: (495) 222 7309/7833. Opening hours: Thurs 0900-1600; Mon-Wed and Fri by appointment only; closed Sat-Sun. Admission charge. Shopping Muscovites have embraced the opportunity to shop with such gusto that it has become a common pastime, particularly for the young. Flashy shopping centres and outlets for chic brands such as Gucci, Tiffany, Rolex and Vertu have proliferated thanks to their appeal to the obscenely rich and the aspirational middle-classes. To see how the oligarchs live, look no further than GUM, in a grand 19th-century four-storey arcade on Red Square. Its boutique outlets include those straight out of Russian Vogue such as Hugo Boss, Dior and Calvin Klein. If luxury fur coats are beyond your means or taste, head to Bosco on the ground floor. This seriously overpriced clothes retailer has a cafe and bar next to its store overlooking Red Square, so you can eat like an oligarch, drink like an oligarch and dress yourself like an oligarch! Okhoktny ryad under Manezh Square, where you will find more modest, high street fashions such as Benetton, Guess, Nike, Reebok and Lacoste, is worth a visit if only to see the shopping centre's garish centrepiece - a fountain beneath a dome made of stained glass depicting the whole of Russia. Built by Moscow's mayor, Yuri Luzhkov, for a princely sum of US$350 million, it is as much a tribute to consumerism as his other brainchild, the Christ the Saviour Cathedral, is a symbol of Russia's religious renaissance. Tverskaya ulitsa, heading north from Red Square, is Moscow's most fashionable shopping street and the address of some expensive boutiques. Sunday is no day of rest for Moscow shoppers and most malls and stores in popular shopping areas such as Tverskaya open late each day. Gone are the days of long lunch breaks; some shops even advertise the fact that they do not close for pereriv. One such place is the spectacular Eliseev Gastronome, at 14 Tverskaya. Built in the 1880s as a nobleman's palace, it was turned into a shop in 1901, which has somehow managed to survive huge political and economic turmoil to retain many of its original features such as curling marble pillars, mahogany shelving and candelabras. It is now owned by an upmarket supermarket chain, which

means that the basics such as bread and milk are sold around the clock alongside imported luxuries such as white asparagus and flavoured aloe vera juice. There is also a decent but overpriced gift shop at the back. For the souvenir hunter, Palekh and Kholui lacquered boxes make attractive gifts, as do the traditional Matryoshka dolls (wooden dolls within dolls) and samovars. Other options are Khokhloma wooden cups, saucers and spoons (painted gold, red and black) and Dymkovskaya Igrushka pottery figurines based on popular folklore characters. Engraved amber, Gzhel porcelain, Vologda lace and Faberg eggs and jewellery are highly sought after. Mementoes from the Red Army abound. Izmailovskii Park has a good craft market at the weekends and with crafty bartering it is possible to stretch those roubles a bit further. Antiques, valuables, works of art and manuscripts, other than those offered for sale in souvenir shops, may not be taken out of the Russian Federation without an export licence. For a real taste of Russia, the Cheremushinsky Rynok, on Lomonovksy prospekt, gathers together fresh produce from all corners of the former Soviet Union. The market is open Monday to Saturday 07001900 and Sunday 0700-1700. Visitors should not expect pristine hygiene, but bargains are plentiful. Gorbushkin Dvor market is a hugely popular market selling everything from digital cameras and mobile phones to cheap CDs and DVDs and equipment to play them on. Open daily 1000-2100. Shopping hours are generally Monday to Saturday 0900-1800, although some larger stores open from 1000-2000, while smaller shops still take a break from 1300-1500. VAT stands at 18% (10% for certain foodstuffs and items for children). MUNICH MINI GUIDE Located to the north of the Bavarian Alps, on the River Isar, Munich (Mnchen) is Germany's third largest city, and is where the country's wealthy trendsetters like to be seen'. Founded by Duke Henry the Lion in 1158, within a century, the city had become the seat of the Wittelsbach dynasty, who ruled the duchy, electorate and kingdom of Bavaria until the end of WWI. Their influence is evident in the concentration of grand gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo-classical architecture adorning Munich's streets. Perhaps most importantly, the Wittelsbachs' patronage of the arts and extensive collections provided the basis for this affluent city's world-class museums and galleries. The city acquired the name Mnchen (home of the monks') from its first monastery, founded in the eighth century. Monasteries have since played an important role in the history of the city, not least by starting the beer brewing traditions for which the city has received worldwide renown. Successive rulers, detecting a profitable source of tax revenue, actively encouraged beer production as a means both of raising money and keeping the populace happy at the same time. Following recent mergers, the city's six breweries have been reduced to four - Augustiner,

Hofbruhaus, Paulaner (who now own Hacker-Pschorr) and the merged Spaten-Lwenbru. Beer quality is still based on the Reinheitsgebot (Purity Edict), introduced by the Bavarian Duke Wilhelm IV, in 1516, which forbids the use of anything other than the core ingredients of barley, hops and water in the brewing process. Drinking a foaming Mass (measure) of beer in one of the city's beer halls or gardens is an essential part of the Munich experience. The period between the wars represents the low point in Munich's history and tends to be glossed over by tourist brochures. The city was the cradle of the Nazi movement after WWI and was the scene of Hitler's first attempt to seize power - the infamous Beer Hall Putsch' on 8 November 1923. Moreover, in 1938, the treaty that surrendered a large portion of Czechoslovakia to the Nazis was signed by Germany, Great Britain, France and Italy in Munich - an act of appeasement that started the slide towards WWII. The city suffered intensive bombing damage during Allied air raids at the end of the war but the economic success of the post-war years has supported a comprehensive rebuilding and restoration programme, making the city one of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany. The citizens of Munich demonstrate a cosmopolitan refinement as well as genuine passion for the region's many traditions, and tourists flock to the city for the world famous Oktoberfest, to indulge in an orgy of beer and revelry. The stereotypical images of lederhosen-clad Bavarians quaffing vast portions of beer and sausage might apply at this time, however, with a strong cultural scene, richly endowed art collections and excellent shopping, the city, also home of BMW cars and centre of the German film industry, certainly has more to offer than just light entertainment. With warm summers accommodating lovely garden restaurants and open-air stages, and snowy winters with romantic Christmas markets, Munich is a place to visit all year round. City Statistics Location: Bavaria (Bayern), southeast Germany. Dialling code: 49. Population: 1.3 million (2006). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 1C (34F). Average July temperatures: 23C (73.5F). Annual rainfall: 905mm (35.7 inches). Sightseeing Marienplatz, where the main pedestrianised streets converge, is the undisputed centre of the city. Weinstrasse, which becomes Theatinerstrasse, runs north from Marienplatz to Odeonsplatz, while Kaufinger Strasse/NeuhauserstrasseStrasse, which becomes

Neuhauserstrasse, runs west to Karlsplatz - known locally as Stachus. Many of the city's main attractions are in the immediate vicinity, so sightseeing can easily be done on foot or by hopping on and off trams. Worth seeing are the 16th-century Michaelskirche, with its imposing barrel-vaulted interior, and the Asamkirche, considered a masterpiece of south German Rococo architecture. The oldest part of the city is the area to the east of Marienplatz, including the Alter Hof (the original royal residence) and the world-famous Hofbruhaus. The Residenz complex lies to the north. The wide boulevard and grand palatial architecture of Ludwigstrasse and Leopoldstrasse stretches north of Odeonsplatz to the Siegestor. These grand building schemes were commissioned by Ludwig I, as were those around Knigsplatz, in the part of the city known as Maxvorstadt - home to some of Munich's most important museums and galleries. From the Siegestor, Leopoldstrasse forms the central artery of the popular district of Schwabing. The former artists' quarter is now considered the most fashionable part of the city, with numerous cafs, bars, restaurants and nightlife venues. To the east of Leopoldstrasse, side roads lead off to the Englischer Garten, a quiet retreat from the busy city. Tourist Information Munich Tourist Office Hauptbahnhof, Bahnhofplatz 2 Tel: (089) 2339 6555. Website: www.muenchen-tourist.de Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1830 (Nov-Mar), 0930-2000 (Apr-Oct), Sun 1000-1800 (all year). A second tourist information office is located in the Neues Rathaus, on Marienplatz. Both offices provide a hotel reservation service. Passes The Munich CityTourCard (available from selected hotels and from ticket machines at rail, SBahn, tram and U-Bahn stations) entitles the holder to free travel by MVV transport in the designated area and to the castles at Schleissheim, as well as up to 50% reduction on admission fees to 35 attractions. Cards are available for 1 or 3 days, for both central Munich and the entire area. Cards for up to five people, and group cards are also available. Key Attractions Around Marienplatz Marienplatz has been at the heart of Munich since the city's foundation in 1158. The area is now a major hub for the urban transport network. For centuries, it was known as the Schrannenmarkt (the place where farmers and merchants came to buy and sell their goods) but was renamed in 1854, after the statue of the Virgin Mary in the centre. The north side of Marienplatz is entirely dominated by the neo-gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), built in the 19th century. Miniature statues of Bavarian rulers and other characters adorn the hall's faade, while the 85m (279ft) tower houses a glockenspiel consisting of 43 bells. The

bells are accompanied by mechanical marionettes that perform scenes from Munich's history. Visitors can ascend the tower by lift.Nearby, other buildings of note include the 15th-century Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), which houses a delightful toy museum, and the Frauenkirche - Munich's cathedral. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, on the site of the Romanesque Marienkirche, the austere cathedral houses the tomb of Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, and the legendary Devil's Footprint' intriguingly embedded in the church floor.

Neues Rathaus Marienplatz 8 Tel: (089) 23300. Admission charge. Altes Rathaus Toy Museum Marienplatz Tel: (089) 294 001. Admission charge. Frauenkirche Frauenplatz 1 Tel: (089) 290 0820. Admission free (charge for tower).
Mnchener Residenz (Munich Residence) The Munich Residence dates from 1385, when it originated as a small castle. Successive members of the Wittelsbach dynasty expanded the original 14th-century castle to create a complex of palaces around seven courtyards. The elaborate rooms contain antiques, sculptures, paintings and tapestries amassed by the Wittelsbachs between the 16th and 19th centuries - some rooms can only be visited during the morning or afternoon. Other royal treasures are on show in the Schatzkammer (Treasury). The entire Residenz complex, including the rococo Cuvillis-Theater, was rebuilt and restored after being reduced to rubble during WWII. Residenzstrasse 1 Tel: (089) 290 671. Website: www.residenz-muenchen.de Admission charge. The Three Pinakotheks The Alte Pinakothek (Old Pinacotheca), constructed in the 19th century for King Ludwig I, is home to one of the world's oldest and most important collections of paintings by European Old Masters, including Drer, Raphael, Rembrandt and Rubens. The Neue Pinakothek (New Pinacotheca), located opposite in a modern building, was conceived by Ludwig I, as a showcase for contemporary art. The museum houses European painting and sculpture from the second half of the 18th century to the beginning of the 20th century. German painting of the 19th century forms the core of the collection. The entrance price includes an audio-guide, which is available in English. The third Pinakothek der Moderne (Pinacotheca of Modern Art) is a collection of contemporary art, architecture and design, taken from disparate collections throughout the

city to complement the works housed in the first two galleries. The Glyptothek (ancient Greek art) and the Antikensammlung (antiquities collection) are located nearby at Knigsplatz.

Alte Pinakothek Barer Strasse 27 Tel: (089) 2380 5216. Website: www.pinakothek.de/alte-pinakothek Admission charge. Neue Pinakothek Barer Strasse 29 Tel: (089) 2380 5195. Website: www.pinakothek.de/neue-pinakothek Admission charge. Pinakothek der Moderne Barer Strasse 40 Tel: (089) 2380 5360. Website: www.pinakothek.de/pinakothek-der-moderne Admission charge.
Deutsches Museum (German Museum) The vast Deutsches Museum presents a dauntingly comprehensive survey of science and technology, from prehistoric tools to space age inventions. Permanent interactive exhibitions are organised around various themes, including Aerospace, Computers, Mining, Technical Toys and Telecommunications. Next door, the Forum der Technik (Technology Forum) houses a planetarium and an IMAX theatre. Flugwerft Schleissheim (Schleissheim Aerodrome), located at Germany's oldest aerodrome, is a branch of the museum that focuses on aviation history. Museumsinsel 1 Tel: (089) 21791. Website: www.deutsches-museum.de Admission charge.

Flugwerft Schleissheim Effnerstrasse 18, Oberschleissheim Tel: (089) 315 7140. Website: www.deutsches-museum.de Admission charge.
Allianz Arena Opened in 2005 prior to the German hosting of the 2006 World Cup football tournament in which it featured as a leading match venue, the spectacular 69,000 capacity Allianz Arena replaced the Olympic Stadium as home for Munich's two leading clubs, Bayern Munich and 1860 Munich. Located in the Frttmaning district, about 15 minutes by S-Bahn from Marienplatz, it offers behind-the-scenes tours on non-match days. Werner-Heisenberg-Allee

Tel: (01805) 555 101. Website: www.allianz-arena.de/en Admission charge. Englischer Garten (English Garden) The English Garden is the largest urban park in Germany, and is a quiet oasis in the heart of busy Munich. Attractions include the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower), with its great beer garden (one of the focal points of the Oktoberfest), the Japanisches Teehaus (Japanese Teahouse) and the Monopteros, a Greek-style temple. The Kleinhesselhoher See (a lake in the centre of the park) and the Amphitheater offer lots of activities in the summer months. The Haus der Kunst (home of the State Gallery of Modern Art), which hosts excellent temporary exhibitions, and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) are located on Prinzregentenstrasse, on the southern edge of the park.

Haus der Kunst Prinzregentenstrasse 1 Tel: (089) 2112 7113. Website: www.hausderkunst.de Admission charge. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Prinzregentenstrasse 3 Tel: (089) 211 2401. Website: www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de Admission charge.
Jdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) From March 2007, a museum dedicated to the long history of Jewish culture in the Bavarian capital is a new place of interest on St-Jakobs-Platz, on the site of a pre-war synagogue. It succeeds a much smaller attraction on Maximilianstrasse, and offers three floors of exhibitions, including a special section explaining general Jewish history and religious topics. St-Jakobs-Platz 16 Tel: (089) 2339 6096. Website: www.juedisches-museum.muenchen.de/en Admission charge. BMW World From its opening in the summer of 2007, the new BMW Welt centre, located adjacent to the BMW Building and the Olympic Complex, will ultimately incorporate a new and expanded museum dedicated to the iconic Bavarian motor company and its history. The new museum is scheduled to open towards the end of 2007, however until that time there is a special exhibition located adjacent to the Olympiaturm (Olympic Tower). BMW Museum (until late 2007), Am Spiridon-Louis-Ring Tel: (089) 3822 5652. Website: www.bmw-welt.com Admission charge. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace)

Located on the western edge of the city, the Nymphenburg Palace was built between the 17th and 19th centuries. Highlights within the main palace include the late-rococo Steinerner Saal (Hall of Stone) and the Gallery of Beauties' - a collection of portraits of beautiful women commissioned by Ludwig I. The extensive grounds conceal four miniature palaces within their landscaped confines, one of which, the Amalienburg, is considered the most attractive rococo palace in Germany. The Nymphenburg complex also includes the Marstallmuseum, which houses royal coaches and riding equipment, as well as the Buml Collection of Nymphenburg porcelain, with exhibits from 1747 until the 1920s. Menzinger Strasse Tel: (089) 179 080. Website: www.schloesser.bayern.de Admission charge. Bavaria Film Studios The tour of Germany's Film City', where around 150 hours of cinema and TV films are produced every year, reveals the tricks of the film industry, including the making of films such us Das Boot (1981), Cabaret (1972), Die Unendliche Geschichte, better known as The Neverending Story (1984), and Perfume - The Story of a Murderer (2006), with Dustin Hoffman, as well as many German TV series. English tours are available at 1300 daily. Bavariafilmplatz 7 Tel: (089) 6499 2000. Website: www.filmtour.de Admission charge. Shopping Shopaholics are in for a treat in Munich. The city's shops combine international names and designer goods with traditional Bavarian crafts. Neuhauserstrasse and Kaufingerstrasse, in the city centre, are the main shopping areas and are lined with large department stores and global chains. You can find smaller, more exclusive boutiques around Maximilianstrasse and Theatinerstrasse. In Schwabing, Leopoldstrasse is a trendy shopping street with interesting boutiques tucked away on the surrounding streets. Viktualienmarkt, the bustling, colourful food market at the eastern end of the Marienplatz pedestrian zone, is one of the city's major attractions. The market is open Monday to Friday 1000-1800 and Saturday 1000-1500. It has existed on the site since 1807 and is a focal point of life in Munich. At the heart of the market is a traditional maypole surrounded by a beer garden, and alongside it is the rebuilt Schrannenhalle, where grain was traded before its destruction by fire in 1932, re-inaugurated in 2005. Typical Bavarian gifts might include traditional clothing (trachten) such as lederhosen for men and Dirndl for women, beer steins (bierkrug), wood carvings (holzschnitzereien), pewter-ware (zinn), the famous Nymphenburg porcelain and speciality foods - such as lebkuchen and Christmas stollen. Loden-Frey, Maffeistrasse 79, and Rudolf Mooshammer, Maximilianstrasse 14, are the shops to head for traditional, Bavarian-style togs. Larger shops, department stores and supermarkets are usually open Monday to Friday 09002000 and Saturday 0900-1600. Smaller outlets are open Monday to Friday until 1830 and might close for lunch. Mehrwertsteuer (VAT) of 19% (lower for some goods like food and

books) is included in the price of purchased items. Visitors from non-EU countries are entitled to a tax refund from participating stores displaying the Tax Free Shopping logo.

PARIS MINI GUIDE Paris is the city of a thousand clichs - the City of Lights', and Hemingway's much quoted Moveable Feast' amongst them, but for once it is also a city that justifies the hype. The French capital is one of the world's truly great cities, a metropolis that lavishly satisfies the desires of tourists and business people alike and manages to retain a standard of living that makes becoming a Parisian so alluring. The city dramatically wears its history on its sleeve, and today it is still centred around the Ile de la Cit, where over 2,000 years ago Celtic tribes first eked out a living. The Romans were later drawn to this strategic location in the middle of the Seine, a natural crossroads between Germany and Spain, and took control in 52BC. Despite English rule between 1420 and 1436, a series of French kings brought about the centralisation of France, with Paris at its cultural, political and economic heart. Despite its large size and population, almost everything worth seeing is contained within the Boulevard Priphrique (the ring road). The compact centre is easily navigable on foot, with the efficient and comprehensive Mtro system always on hand to ease tired limbs. The lifeblood River Seine splits the city neatly in two and the useful arrondissements (districts) system neatly carves Paris into manageable chunks. The history of Paris can be uncovered throughout its distinctive districts. Hilly Montmartre, with its village atmosphere, was where the Paris Commune began in 1871; the Marais evokes medieval Paris, its winding streets a sharp contrast to the wide, orderly Haussmann boulevards, envisaged by Napoleon III to keep the mobs at bay. These grand 19th-century avenues still dominate the city, interspersed with modern flourishes. The grands travaux (large projects) of Prsident Mitterrand added the Grande Arche de la Dfense, the ultra-modern Opra de la Bastille, the impressive Institut du Monde Arabe, and plonked a glass pyramid in the central courtyard of the Louvre. The best time to visit the city is, of course, during the famous Paris spring between April and June, when the days are sunny but not too hot. The autumn and winter months are another good time to come when there are smaller crowds and snow is a rarity, but there really is no bad time to visit one of the world's truly great cities. City Statistics Location: Ile-de-France region, France. Dialling code: 33. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 4C (39F). Average July temperatures: 19.5C (67F). Annual rainfall: 642mm (25 inches).

Sightseeing The city centre is actually surprisingly compact and the Mtro system makes getting around fairly easy. A good way for first time arrivals to get an idea of how Paris fits together is to take a cruise on the River Seine or ascend the Eiffel Tower and take in a sweeping view of the city. With so much to see, time management is crucial and many people choose to concentrate on one or two of the arrondissements (districts). The nostalgic should wander around the mansions of the Marais district, past the Muse Carnavalet, 23 rue de Svign, 3rd; Htel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th, and Place des Vosges, home to the Maison de Victor Hugo. Those interested in modern art and design should opt for the Centre Georges Pompidou, place Beaubourg, 4th; Jean Nouvel's Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fosss-St-Bernard, 5th; or the Grande Arche de la Dfense with its high-speed glass lift offering a spectacular view of Paris. The Grande Arche, which lies along the same geographical axis as Napoleon's Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elyses, was built a century and a half later. This incongruity (the modern city juxtaposed with the old) is all part of the charm of Paris. Paris overflows with museums, ranging from the vast collections of the Louvre to the small and quirky - such as the Muse des Arts Forains, 53 avenue des-Terroires-de-France, 12th, a shrine to fairground art, with something for everyone scattered through the metropolitan area. The Muse du Quai Branly, 37 quai Branly, 7th, was opened to much fanfare in 2006 and has been an instant success. Repeat visitors to Paris usually end up uncovering something new, such as the rejuvenated Bercy district to the east with its green spaces, popular bars and development buzz or Belleville, with its grungy cosmopolitanism and ethnic restaurants. Another popular attraction is Paris Plage in summer when the car takes a back seat and the city's citizens relax by the Seine amidst a world of sand and deckchairs. Tourist Information Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau 25 rue des Pyramides Tel: 0892 683 000. Website: www.paris-touristoffice.com Opening hours: (Jun-Oct) daily 0900-1900; (Nov-May) Mon-Sat 1100-1900, Sun 1000-1900. Further tourist offices are located at the Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot, 12th (open Mon to Sat 0800-1800), Gare du Nord, 18 rue de Dunkerque, 10th (open 0800-1800), Opera, 11 rue Scribe, 9th (open 0900-1830), Eiffel Tower (open daily 1100-1840 May to Sep). Passes The Museum Pass (www.museums-of-paris.com) allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region, including the Arc de Triomphe, Muse National du Louvre, Muse d'Orsay and Muse Rodin. The two-, four- or six-day pass is for sale from tourist offices, participating museums and monuments, the main mtro stations and FNAC stores. It allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions. Key Attractions

Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower) The Eiffel Tower literally towers over the Champ de Mars in the smart 7th arrondissement. The top (third) floor offers a sweeping panorama of Paris. From directly underneath there is a fascinating view of the delicate ironwork constructed by Gustave Eiffel, who was commissioned to build the tower for the Exposition Universelle in 1889 - the centenary of the French Revolution. The Tour Eiffel is also home to a number of restaurants, which offer views of the city and sky high prices to match. Champ de Mars, 7th Tel: (01) 4411 2323. Website: www.tour-eiffel.fr Opening hours: Daily 0930-2345 (Jan-mid Jun); daily 0900-0045 (mid Jun-Aug), daily 0930-0045 (Sep-Dec). Admission charge. Cathdrale de Notre-Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady) The stocky Notre-Dame Cathedral, situated on the Ile-de-la-Cit, could not be more different from the filigree Eiffel Tower. Bishop Maurice de Sully began construction on the cathedral in 1163, to outshine the new abbey at St-Denis; work was completed in 1345. The result is a gothic masterpiece, with three stunning rose windows. Visitors should be prepared to climb the 387 spiral steps to the top of the 75m (246ft) north tower. The views over the River Seine and the city centre are well worth the effort. There is also a treasury with various liturgical objects on display. 6 Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame, 4th Tel: (01) 4234 5610 or 4432 1672 (information on tower). Website: www.cathedraledeparis.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1845, Sat-Sun (0800-1715) (cathedral); Apr, May, Sep daily 10001830, Jun-Aug Mon-Fri 1000-1830, Sat-Sun 1000-2300, Oct-Mar daily 1000-1730 (towers). Free admission (cathedral); charge for towers and treasury. La Basilique du Sacr-Coeur (The Sacred Heart Basilica) A long, wide series of steps lead to the snowy-white domed Sacr-Coeur that dominates the arty district of Montmartre. A mishmash of styles, the Catholic church was built between 1870 and 1919, to fulfil a vow made during the Franco-Prussian war. The interior is splendid with neo-Byzantine mosaics and the domed tower offers a spectacular view over Paris. The crypt contains an interesting collection of religious relics and a slide show on the construction of the Basilica. Below the church, a park tumbles down the hillside in a flurry of benches that make an ideal spot for surveying the city skyline. Parvis du Sacr-Coeur, 18th Tel: (01) 5341 8900. Website: www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com Opening hours: Daily 0600-2300 (Basilica); daily 0930-1830 (crypt and dome). Free admission (Basilica); charge for dome and crypt. Muse National du Louvre (Louvre National Museum) The Louvre first opened to the public in 1793, following the Revolution, as a showcase for the art treasures of the kings of France. The museum is organised into three wings on four floors. The vast permanent collection includes Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Egyptian and East Asian antiquities, French, Spanish, Italian and northern European sculpture and 19th-century objets d'art. The painting collection is the strongest, with French, Italian, Dutch, German, Flemish and Spanish masterpieces

from the mid-13th to the mid-19th centuries. Most famed French works include David's Coronation of Napolon, Ingres' The Turkish Bath, Gricault's depiction of disaster, The Raft of the Medusa and Delacroix's ode to revolution, Liberty Leading the People. The museum's greatest treasure, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, is in a bullet-proof case. There are plans to move it into its own room, but for now it is on display in room 13, on the first floor of the Denon wing. Buying tickets from the official website in advance saves unnecessary time spent queuing. Cour Napolon, 1st Tel: (01) 4020 5050. Website: www.louvre.fr Opening hours: daily 0900-1800, Wed and Fri until 2130; closed Tues. Opening hours for temporary exhibitions vary. Admission charge; free first Sun of each month; advance tickets can be purchased from branches of FNAC and on the Internet; tickets allow same-day re-admission. Muse Rodin (Rodin Museum) Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) lived and worked in this 18th-century htel particulier, now the Rodin Museum, and his sculptures populate the interior and gardens. Indoors, The Kiss portrays eternal passion frozen in white marble, while The Hand of God gives life to creamy white, half-formed figures. Works of Rodin's mistress and pupil, Camille Claudel, and paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir and Rodin himself are also on display. The gardens are graced by the monumental bronze The Thinker, whose godly physique contrasts sharply with the decrepitude of the writhing figures of The Gates of Hell and the controversial final portrait of Balzac, once described as a block that disgraces its author and French Art'. 77 rue de Varenne, 7th Tel: (01) 4418 6110. Website: www.musee-rodin.fr Opening hours: Museum: Tues-Sun 0930-1745, garden: Tues-Sun 0930-1845 (Apr-Sep); museum: Tues-Sun 0930-1645, garden: Tues-Sun 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar). Admission charge; free first Sun of each month. Muse d'Orsay (Museum of Orsay) The museum's home, an impressively converted railway station by the banks of the Seine, is stunning, but the real strength of this large museum lies in its collection of Impressionist and PostImpressionist art. The collection, covering the decisive 1848-1914 period, is arranged chronologically, beginning on the ground floor, jumping to the third, and then descending to the middle level. Among the most famous works are Manet's Djeuner sur l'Herbe (Luncheon on the Grass), rejected from the Salon of 1863, five of Monet's paintings of Rouen Cathedral and the realist work L'Origine du Monde (The Origin of the World), by Gustave Courbet, whose graphic depiction of the female sex continues to shock. Entrances at 1 rue de la Lgion d'Honneur and 1 rue de Bellechasse, 7th Tel: (01) 4049 4814. Website: www.musee-orsay.fr Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1800, Thurs 0930-2145. Admission charge; free first Sun of each month. Muse du Quai Branly This grand relatively recently opened museum was a welcome to the Parisian cultural scene when it

opened its doors during 2006 after much hype. The collections, which include a broad sweep of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas, have been lauded by critics and the public alike. Inside there are over 3,500 artefacts. From the main reception a ramp takes visitors off towards the eclectic collections, which include masks in Oceania, costumes from Asia and also African musical instruments and textiles. 17 Quai Branly, 7th Tel: (01) 5661 7000. Website: www.quaibranly.fr Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1830, Thurs open to 2130. Admission charge. Muse National Picasso (National Picasso Museum) Paris-based Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) owned most of this collection, one of the largest worldwide, housed in a 17th-century mansion in the Marais. All phases of his art are represented, with preparatory sketches and paintings covering the Blue Period, Rose Period, cubism, classicism, surrealism and sculptures ranging from a huge plaster head to a small cat. Memorable works include the Blue Period self-portrait Paolo as Harlequin, the surreal Nude in an Armchair and poignant paintings of Marie-Thrse, his lover and muse. Photographs are displayed alongside the works they inspired, and African masks with Picasso's primitive' wood carvings. There is also a glimpse of the artist's personal taste in paintings, with his Matisse and Czanne paintings displayed alongside his own. Htel Sal, 5 rue de Thorigny, 3rd Tel: (01) 4271 2521. Website: www.musee-picasso.fr Opening hours: Wed, Fri-Mon 0930-1800, Thurs 0930-2000 (summer); Wed, Fri-Mon 0930-1730, Thurs 0930-2000 (winter). Admission charge; free first Sun of each month. Centre Georges Pompidou (Georges Pompidou Centre) Considered outrageous in 1977, the Pompidou Centre, designed by Piano and Rogers, has become part of the Parisian landscape, primary coloured tubes and all. The building was revamped and extended a few years ago, to cope with the huge numbers of people visiting its expanding collection of contemporary art and multimedia library. Place Georges Pompidou, 4th Tel: (01) 4478 1233. Website: www.centrepompidou.fr Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1100-2200; late-night openings until 2300 for some exhibits. Admission charge; free first Sun of each month. Paris Plage Since its inception in 2001, Paris Plage has become a highly successful annual event. The idea of shutting off a busy 3.5km (2-mile) section of riverfront expressway in the city centre and turning it into a giant leisure oasis is both simple and brilliant, though it has provoked the ire of some of the city's taxi drivers. A flurry of deckchairs and hammocks replace the cars and even an open-air swimming pool, mainly geared towards children, features alongside the stalls selling food, drinks and ice cream. Mist sprays, sand and the sight of relaxing locals and tourists manage to raise a smile from all but the most world-weary of Parisians. Such has been the success of Paris Plage that, even

when there is no sand, for the rest of the year sections of the river are now closed frequently at weekends to allow Parisians to cycle and walk along the riverside. Banks of the Seine between Tuileries Tunnel and the Henri IV bridge Opening times: Jul-Aug daily. Free admission. Shopping The Parisian ideal is elegant rather than funky. Trends come and go but Paris is always at the forefront and there are few cities where you can find so many top-quality designers. These include some British designers - John Galliano at Dior, Julian McDonald at Givenchy and McDonald's predecessor, Alexander McQueen, as well as that ever-controversial Frenchman, Jean-Paul Gaultier, with his own store near Bastille. The exclusive designer shops are in the 8th, enclosed in the golden triangle formed by avenue des Champs-Elyses, avenue Montaigne and rue Franois 1er and along rue du Faubourg St-Honor. A less rarefied but typically Parisian shopping experience is to be had at the main department stores situated on boulevard Haussmann, 8th. These include Les Galeries, with its huge coloured dome, and Au Printemps. Mtro Temple or Republique take the bargain shopper to the cheapest department store in the city - Tati, 172 rue du Temple, 3rd. Cut-price designer gear can be snapped up at the Mouton Cinq Pattes, 8 rue St-Placide, 6th. The sales sweep through Paris in January and July. Those who enjoy intimate, friendly boutiques should head for the Marais 4th arrondissement. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the gay quarter sells designer kitsch, while the winding rue des Rosiers, in the Jewish quarter, has plenty of young designers whose works are displayed at L'Eclaireur. This area is at its busiest on Sunday, with many shops closed on Saturday due to the Jewish sabbath. It is ideal for a quick falafel snack, while the best ice cream is for sale at Berthillon, 31 rue de St-Louis-enL'Ile, 4th. The Carrousel du Louvre, under the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard, is a good place for shoppers to find tasteful gifts but those determined to take home plastic Eiffel Towers should head for rue de Rivoli, home to tourist kitsch. The American-run Shakespeare & Co, 37 rue de la Bcherie, 5th, has the city's widest selection of second-hand books in English. French books are best purchased at the city's FNAC stores, one of which is at the shopping arcade, the Forum des Halles, 1st. Bouquinistes sell second-hand books, as well as prints, postcards and gifts, along the River Seine. Expensive antiques are to be found at Le Louvre des Antiquaires, beside the Louvre on place du Palais Royal. For bric-a-brac, there are the renowned marchs aux puces (flea markets), including the Porte de Montreuil, 20th, which is open on Saturday, Sunday and Monday 0900-1800, and StOuen/Porte de Clignancourt, 18th, open Friday 0600-1400, Saturday 0830-1730, Sunday 1030-1800 and Monday 1030-1700. There are numerous morning food markets in Paris, while the Ile-de-la-Cit has one of the largest flower markets in Paris. Many an eyebrow was raised a few years back when a number of homeless people were evicted from the remaining section of the old Bastille-Vincennes elevated railway and local artists were coaxed in. The end result today is the Viaduc des Arts, Avenue Daumesnil, a unique and atmospheric shopping venue where genuinely different designer creations flourish in a scene that is a world away from the hegemony of the malls and shopping centres. Some of the most interesting outlets include Malhia Kent at 19, who weaves for the likes of Gucci and Dior, Yamakodo at 65, with its range of fun and

funky modern furniture and Astier de Villatte at 107, who are renowned for their innovative pottery. Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 0900/1000-1900/2000 and close between about 1200 and 1430 for lunch. Sales tax ranges from 5.21-16.38%, varying widely between what are regarded as essential items and luxury goods. Non-EU visitors can obtain a tax deduction of 12-13% on purchases of over 175 in any one day, by obtaining a form at the relevant shop and presenting it to customs on departure. Global Refund (tel: (01) 4161 5151; www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information and advice. PRAGUE MINI GUIDE When Franz Kafka wrote that his home city had claws' that prevented him leaving, he was not paying nefarious Prague a compliment. These days Prague has a similarly magnetic, though much more positive, appeal for the soaring numbers of tourists and business travellers who flock to the Czech capital every year. Prague is quite simply one of the most stunning cities in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage listed gem, eulogised as the City of a Thousand Spires'. Prague has become the archetypal post-communist city success story with seemingly not a month going by without another city being hailed as the New Prague'. This is a city where just ambling around the impressively well-preserved historic core, stopping off for a fortifying glass of one of the excellent local beers, popping into boutique shops or one of the many museums is the real pleasure. Prague's story goes back to the distant days of the Celtic tribes, as early as 400BC. The city's real golden age commenced when Charles IV of Bohemia was elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1346. The ambitious gothic building programme, including St Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge, the University, and the New Town, centred on Wenceslas Square and transformed the city into one of the greatest and most powerful in Europe. The 20th century brought massive trauma for Czechoslovakia and Prague as the country was occupied by the Nazis during WWII and then spent the best part of five decades subjugated under Soviet communist rule, with all attempts to win greater democracy in 1968's Prague Spring' brutally crushed under the weight of Russian tanks. The Czech spirit remained undaunted and in 1989, as the Berlin Wall tumbled, the Czechs finally broke free of communism during the Velvet Revolution', which was quickly followed by the Velvet Divorce' as the Slovak portion of the old Czechoslovakia chose to go its own way. With poet and president Vaclav Havel at the helm, Prague became the hub of the postcommunist eastern European revival with expats flocking to the city in the 1990s, quickly developing a buzz that brought comparisons with 1920s Paris. This post Velvet Revolution buzz has faded to some extent and these days there are as many foreign as Czech voices on the streets with the city massively popular as a tourist destination and as a business hub. In 2004, the Czech Republic joined the European Union, further cementing the city's importance and popularity.

Part of Prague's charm is that it is a rewarding place to visit at any time of year. Winters can be long, harsh and dark, but spring and autumn are often idyllic with summer bringing some very warm central European temperatures. Whether easing under Charles Bridge on a rowing boat on a balmy summer evening, or trudging across the crisp snow of the Old Town Square and enjoying a glass of mulled wine at the Christmas Market, this slick, but still deeply characterful Czech capital seldom disappoints. City Statistics Location: Banks of the Vltava, Bohemia, Czech Republic, Central Europe. Dialling code: 420. Population: 1.21 million (2007). Time zone: GMT + 1. Electricity: 220-230 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard; converters are hard to find. Average January temperatures: - 1C (30F). Average July temperatures: 19C (62.6F). Annual rainfall: 67mm (2.64 inches). Sightseeing One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting Prague is that much of the compact old core is accessible on foot, with plenty of bars and cafes to provide relief along the way and an excellent public transport system on hand to ease tired limbs. The most famous square in Prague is Wenceslas Square, scene of the Velvet Revolution celebrations in 1989, though its shabby facades and dubious nightclubs are not too appealing these days. Just to the northwest is a far more cohesive and appealing public space, the Old Town Square - the throbbing heart of tourist Prague. The view from the top of the Old Town Hall gives a solid idea of the layout. Head west towards the river and Karluv Most (Charles Bridge), with its hotchpotch of peddlers, entertainers and backpackers, unfurls across to the Mal Strana district. The bridge links Mal Strana (Little or Lesser Town) and the Castle above with the Old and New Towns. The central tourist area is made up of five sections. Hrada ny is the Castle district, which also includes St Vitus Cathedral and St George's Convent. Mal Strana is at the castle's foot. Back east across Karluv Most lies Star M sto (Old Town), with its winding narrow streets, Old Town Square and Old Town Hall. The much ignored Josefov (the Jewish Quarter) is to the north of the old town while Nov Ms to (New Town) to the south hugs the river and is home to some interesting modern architecture. While the Castle district and the Old Town are the real tourist hubs of the city, there is plenty waiting elsewhere in Prague and further afield. Green spaces include Letn Park, Karlovo Namesti and Petrin Hill.

There are plentiful half and full day trip options, with the chance to visit the UNESCO World Heritage town of Cesky Krumlov, one of Central Europe's most charming escapes. Tourist Information Prask Informacn Sluba (PIS - Prague Information Service) Tel: 12444. Website: www.prague-info.cz There are three PIS branches in Prague: they can be found in the Old Town Hall, Staromstsk nmst, Prague 1; Hlavn ndra (main train station), Wilsonova, Prague 1; and, in the summer, at Malostransk mosteck vex (Lesser Town Bridge Tower), Prague 1. Passes A four-day Tourist Pass allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to over 50 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges are also available. These passes can be purchased from tourist information centres and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP). Key Attractions Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) The construction of Prague's most famous and most photographed location began in 1357, as part of Charles IV's monumental building programme that included the Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the University. All were supervised by the Swabian architect Peter Parler (although the bridge construction is now known to have been begun by Master Otto). The bridge replaced the earlier Judita (Judith) bridge, the only surviving remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Mal Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation), which flank the bridge, that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these (the Crucifixion) was erected in 1657, followed soon after by the only bronze statue, that of St John of Nepomuk (who was martyred after being thrown from the bridge). Most of the other statues of the saints (carved from local sandstone by Josef Brokof and Matthias Braun) were added between 1706 and 1714 (the latest was not added until 1928). Due to pollution, most have been replaced and the originals are housed in the Lapidarium in Letn Park. Many tourists wonder about the wooden constructions at the base of the pilings on the upriver side - these protect against ice floes and logjams during the spring melt-off. The fully pedestrianised bridge serves as a focal point for tourists. There are stalls of various artists and craftspeople lining the bridge, while buskers of all descriptions (from Dixieland jazz bands to puppeteers) provide a constant source of entertainment and often congestion. Strolling across as the sun comes down while a young violinist wafts music across the Vltava is one of the quintessential Prague experiences. Star Ms to (Old Town)

Prask Hrad (Prague Castle) Prague Castle, perched on the ridge of the Hradcany, dominates Prague's skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex (with three courtyards,

fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right) is most striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible to see everything in a single day. Katedrla sv Vta (St Vitus Cathedral), the country's largest church, takes up most of the third courtyard. Inspired by the gothic cathedral at Narbonne, work actually commenced in 1344, but was not completed until 1929 due to the changing fortunes of the Czechs. The finest of the 22 side chapels is that built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas - the gilded walls are inlaid with hundreds of semi-precious stones that frame the luminous 14th-century paintings. The overly ornate baroque tomb of St John of Nepomuk was the work of the Jesuits intent on promoting this martyr as the Czech patron saint in opposition to Wenceslas. The Coronation Chamber displays the Bohemian crown jewels, but is only infrequently open to the public. The Crypt is the resting place of most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia. Bazilika sv Ji (St George's Basilica) is a marvel of Romanesque architecture. Founded in 970, it was rebuilt in the 12th century and acquired its present baroque facade in the 16th century. The chapel dedicated to Saint Ludmilla, the first Czech martyr, is particularly fine. Klster sv Ji (St George's Convent), the oldest monastery in the country, was founded in 973 for Benedictine nuns. It now houses a remarkable collection of early Czech art, from the gothic to baroque periods. In the Castle Gardens, the Belvedere is Prague's finest Renaissance building. Built in the 1530s as a summerhouse for Queen Anne, it now houses a changing programme of exhibitions. Zlat Ulicka (Golden Lane), with its 16th-century houses built into the fortifications, derives its name from being the residences of the court alchemists. Hradcansk nmst, Prague 1 Tel: 2243 72423. Website: www.hrad.cz or www.katedralapraha.cz (for the cathedral) Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); daily 0900-1600 (Nov-May). Admission charge (grounds free). Staromstsk Nmst (Old Town Square) The 12th-century Old Town Square is the focal point for tourists. Horse-drawn carriages and vintage cars await those wishing to take a tour of the historic centre. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city's largest Christmas Market. The centre is dominated by the monumental memorial to the 14th-century religious reformer, Jan Hus. The Prague Meridian is also found here, designating kilometre zero, from which all distances in the city are measured. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest. The gothic Staromestsk Radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion (dating to the early 15th century) reveals the Apostles at two windows. Beware the pickpockets who flock to the chimes as eagerly as the tourists. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb gothic Chrm Matky Bo P ed Tnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe is found. Star Ms to (Old Town)

Josefov (Jewish Quarter)

Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. Much of the area was cleared to make way for art nouveau buildings, but some of the flavour still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum, allows admission to the idovnick Radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, the Maisel, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovon Synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), said to be the oldest synagogue in Europe, as well as the gallery and cemetery. Star Ms to (Old Town)

Jewish Museum U Star koly 1, Prague 1 Tel: 2217 11511. Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1630 (NovMar). Admission charge. Obecn Dm (Municipal House) The gem of art nouveau in Prague, Obecn Dm has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by Antonin Balsnek and Osvald Polvka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction (1905-10). However, even Karel Spillar's striking mosaic and the sculptural group by Ladislav aloun cannot prepare visitors for the remarkable interiors. The most spectacular of the public areas is the Lord Mayor's Room, which features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, cafe and the Amerikansk bar were also the work of Polvka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public. Nmst Republiky 5, Prague 1 Tel: 2220 02101. Website: www.obecnidum.cz Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (exhibition hall); daily 0730-2300 (cafe). Free admission; charge for guided tours (booking essential) and separate exhibitions. Vclavsk Nmest (Wenceslas Square) Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989 that the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague - from the fashionable and expensive stores to the prostitutes and taxis controlled by organised crime rings. Nothing remains of the square's earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague's largest stores - often of more interest for their architecture than for their contents. News kiosks at the bottom end are the best place to purchase Czech and foreign-language newspapers. There are numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s) leading to or surrounding a cinema (in almost all instances) - many are now being renovated to their original art deco splendour, chiefly to house trendy shops. The Lucerna (see Live music in Nightlife) is undoubtedly the finest of these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, cafes and numerous small shops.

The focal point of the upper end of the square is JV Myslbek's monumental bronze equestrian statue of the Pomnk sv Vclav (St Wenceslas Memorial). The four surrounding statues are of national patron saints - Ludmilla, Procopius, Agnes and Vojtech (Adalbert). At the top of the square stands the Nrodn Muzeum (National Museum). Founded in 1818, this houses the country's oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections (dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology) are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. Built in the neo-Renaissance style, the facade and interior decorations form a striking celebration of the history of the former Czechoslovakia. Nov Ms to (New Town)

Nrodn muzeum (National Museum) Vclavsk 68, Prague 1 Tel: 2244 97111. Website: www.nm.cz/english Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr); closed first Tues of the month. Admission charge; free first Monday of month. Shopping Shopping in Prague can be frustrating or rewarding, depending on the approach taken. Western chains and large stores around Vclavsk nmst do not offer bargains and shoppers should seek out the smaller shops to browse and patronise the cafes when it all becomes too much. Czech crystal and glassware are superb and often extremely good value. There are enough shops for one to spend an entire day on this alone. Cheap Czech crystal jewellery can be found throughout the city. Czech garnets are considered the world's best. Granat, Dlouh 28, Prague 1, are the specialists. Amber (jantar) can also be found for bargain prices, however, shoppers should stick to the Baltic variety - Russian shops sell a far more brittle and overpriced variety. Even in the markets it is possible to find beautiful and unique wood and ceramic pieces. The early post-Revolution days, when exquisite pieces of art nouveau Daum and Loetz glass or a set of duelling pistols could be purchased at one-sixth of their value are long gone, but antiques can still be good purchases. Jan Hunek Starozitnosti, Pa sk 1, Prague 1, sells beautiful Czech glass from the 18th century to 1930s art deco. Alma, Vamentinsk 7, Prague 1, specialises in porcelain, lace and folk costumes. Away from the centre, bazars (glorified junk shops) occasionally turn up real finds. Time is needed for one to search them out but the rewards can be worthwhile. Antiquarian books and prints remain good buys but prices are rising. Antikvarit Galerie Mstek, 28 jna 13/Nrodn 40, Prague 1, and Antikvarit Karel Krenek, Celetn 31, Prague 1, both offer an excellent selection. Antikvarit Pa ska, Pa ska 8, Prague 1, specialises in prints and maps from the 16th to 19th centuries. Classical music CDs are often very low in price. The best selections are at Bonton Megastore, Palc Koruna, Vclavsk nmst 1, Prague 1, and Bontonland (Supraphon), Jungmannova 20, Prague 1. Supraphon, the privatised state recording company, draws on a wealth of

stunning Czech music in its archives (website: www.supraphon.cz). Shop opening hours vary widely but are generally Monday to Friday 0800-1000 and 17002000 and Saturday 1000-1400. Many tourist shops and larger stores remain open all day including Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Most areas of the city have at least one 24-hour food shop. Almost everything closes on public holidays. Most markets only sell food and their hours generally correspond to standard shopping hours. The best markets for crafts, hand embroidery, leather goods and charming wooden toys are Havelsk, Prague 1, and the craft stalls in Staromstsk nmst. Christmas Markets throughout December are excellent for gifts but visitors should beware of the professional pickpockets and the strength of the hot grog. Goods must be removed from the Czech Republic within 30 days of purchase in order for visitors from non-EU countries to claim a tax refund of around 14%.

VIENNA MINI GUIDE Vienna (Wien) is a unique blend of the historic and the modern, so full of tradition it can be read on the face of the city, yet with a forward-looking approach that will surprise the visitor. Vienna's role as the seat of the Hapsburg Empire for centuries can be seen in the wealth of architecture and in the city's artistic and musical heritage. Many of the world's most important composers, including Beethoven and Mozart, have lived and performed behind Vienna's baroque facades. In addition to this baroque splendour, there are excellent examples of the art nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture that also flourished here. The fall of the Hapsburg Empire at the end of WWI allowed Vienna's socialist undercurrents to come to the fore during the Red Vienna' period, resulting in numerous social housing and other projects, which still play a role in the city. Vienna's occupation by the Nazis and subsequent partitioning by the four Allied powers tend to be forgotten, as the city instead focuses on its post-war neutrality and the glittering remnants of its Imperial glory. This seems to be reinforced by the image of older Viennese walking small dogs or eating cakes in cafes but it ignores the energy of Vienna's alternative and underground scenes, whose members react against the attachment to tradition in a way similar to their Secessionist counterparts a century before. Vienna is divided into 23 bezirke (districts). The original city that lay within the protective walls comprises the First District of modern Vienna. The demolition of the city walls led to the construction of the Ringstrasse and an impressive parade of buildings along its length. The majority of the tourist attractions lie on and within the Ringstrasse. Districts two to nine are arrayed between the Ringstrasse and the concentric Grtel (belt). The other districts lie beyond the Grtel and extend into the foothills of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), where heurigen (wine taverns) and pretty villages are dotted among the vineyards. Vienna's climate is generally moderate, although the city can experience heavy snowfalls and low temperatures from December to March, as well as occasionally very high temperatures in July and August. Summer, however, is usually comfortable with an average daily temperature of 20C (68F), although heavy thundershowers are likely. The city is not only the capital of Austria but also a federal province, surrounded by Niedersterreich (Lower Austria). Vienna's location on the east-west trade route along the River Danube played an important part in its history - an empire that once covered a large part of Europe was ruled from here. Even today, Vienna is the financial and administrative capital of Austria and home to a

number of international organisations, including the United Nations. And with the fall of Communism, Vienna is once again at the centre of Europe. City Statistics Location: Vienna (federal province), eastern Austria. Dialling code: 43. Population: 1,675,000 (city); 1,725,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50 Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 1C (34F). Average July temperatures: 25C (77F). Annual rainfall: 616mm (24.3 inches). Sightseeing The heart of Vienna is the Innerestadt - the area that lay within the city walls, until they were demolished in the mid 19th century. It is here that some of Vienna's most popular tourist attractions can be found, along with pedestrianised streets lined with countless shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. The centre point is Stephansdom, the city's celebrated gothic cathedral, which is surrounded by the wide Stephansplatz. Following the demolition of the city walls in 1857, the Ringstrasse was laid out and some of Vienna's most beautiful buildings were built along it, between 1858 and 1865. Among the most important are the Staatsoper (State Opera House), Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), Parlament (Parliament), Rathaus (City Hall) and Burgtheater (Palace Theatre). Although most major attractions are in the First District, the other inner districts have much to offer. Leopoldstadt (Second District) lies on the eastern side of the Danube Canal, and it is here that the massive Prater can be found. Landstrasse (Third District) includes the Schwarzenberg Palace and the Konzerthaus, although the main attraction is the Belvedere Palace. Wieden (Fourth District) is a small neighbourhood that is almost as fashionable as the First District. Karlsplatz, with its domed namesake, Karlskirche, is the district's dominating feature. Margareten (Fifth District) is more residential and the historic homes of Schubert and Gluck still stand here. Mariahelf (Sixth District) includes Vienna's busiest shopping street, Mariahilferstrasse. The Naschmarkt (Produce Market) and the Flohmarkt (Flea Market), on Saturday morning, add to the excitement, while the surrounding streets are packed with beisls (small taverns), theatres, cafes and pubs. Neubau (Seventh District) includes the Spittelberg Quarter, where the old houses have been renovated into boutiques, restaurants, theatres and galleries, and the MuseumsQuartier, Vienna's prime art and cultural space. Josefstadt (Eighth District) was once the area favoured by civil servants - the Josefstadt Theatre, the city's oldest

(1788), is still in operation. Alsergrund (Ninth District) is often called the academic quarter - Freud's home, now a museum, is located here, as is the Lichtenstein Palace, which now houses the Museum of Modern Art. Further afield, in Hietzing (13th District), is Schnbrunn Palace, one of the finest baroque edifices on the planet and the former summer residence of Habsburg royalty. Tourist Information Wien Tourismus Albertinaplatz/Ecke Maysedergasse Tel: (01) 24555. Website: www.wien.info Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900. Other tourist information offices are located in the airport arrivals area. Passes The Vienna Card offers discounts at 200 attractions, theatres, shops, cafes, restaurants and heurigen (wine taverns), as well as on the CAT train from the airport. It also includes unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, bus and tram networks (including night buses) for 72 hours. Key Attractions Stephansdom (St Stephen's Cathedral) The imposing St Stephen's Cathedral marks Graben's eastern end and is easily spotted, due to its brightly coloured roof tiles, from more distant viewpoints. Construction began on the cathedral in the 12th century and was completed in 1433. Major restoration and rebuilding work was necessary after the cathedral caught fire at the end of WWII. 01, Stephansplatz 1 Tel: (01) 5155 23520. Website: www.stephanskirche.at Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0600-2200, Sun 0700-2200; English services Sat 1900, services with musical arrangement Sun 1015 (Sep-Jun), Sun 0930 (Jul-Aug); guided tours MonSat between 0900-1130 and 1300-1630, Sun 1300-1630. Admission charge. Hofburg The Imperial Palace until 1918, the Hofburg is almost a city in itself. Today, it houses the office of the Austrian president, an international conference centre, a number of museums, the chapel where the Vienna Boys' Choir sings and the hall in which the Lipizzan stallions perform. Visitors can tour the Kaiserappartements (Imperial Apartments), including Franz Joseph's and Sisi's (Empress Elisabeth's) private rooms, the great audience hall, dining rooms and staterooms. The Silberkammer (Imperial Silver Collection) is also on show. The Schatzkammer (Treasury), Schweizerhof 1, contains stunning exhibits that exemplify the power and wealth of one of Europe's most

important empires. The Imperial crown of the Holy Roman Empire rests here, as does the crown of the Austrian Empire, the 15th-century Burgundian treasure and the treasure of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The Sisi Museum, which opened in 2004 to commemorate the 150th wedding anniversary of Empress Elisabeth and Emperor Franz Joseph, showcases many personal objects and some of the most famous portraits of the beautiful empress. Last but not least, the Prunksaal (State Hall) of the Nationalbibliothek (Austrian National Library) is a jewel of profane baroque architecture and one of the most beautiful historical libraries in the world, and should not be missed. 01, Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor Tel: (01) 533 7570 (Imperial Apartments, Imperial Silver Collection and Sisi Museum) or 5252 44025 (Treasury). Website: www.hofburg.wien.info or www.hofburg-wien.at Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Imperial Apartments, Imperial Silver Collection and Sisi Museum); Wed-Mon 1000-1800 (Treasury). Admission charge. State Hall of the Austrian National Library 01, Josefsplatz 1 Tel: (01) 534 100. Website: www.onb.ac.at Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2100. Admission charge. Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School) For over 400 years, the horses of the Spanish Riding School have performed their elegant manoeuvres at the Imperial Stables. The Lipizzaner Museum Wien (situated at the stables) traces the history of these renowned performing horses and offers the opportunity to see into the animals' quarters. The easiest way for visitors to see the horses in action is at their morning training sessions, 1000-1200 Tuesday to Saturday. Tickets to the training sessions, which involve classical dressage exercise to music, are only available at the door on the day. Tickets for the actual performances are in high demand and need to be booked well in advance. The season generally runs from March to June and from September to December. Gala performances vary from month to month, usually Saturday or Sunday mornings and occasionally Friday evenings. The expensive tickets are available on the Internet, by post or by fax (standing room is cheaper). Final dress rehearsals before the season starts are cheaper and tickets are available on a first-come-first-served basis. 01, Michaelerplatz 1 (Riding School ticket office), Reitschulgasse 2 (Lipizzaner Museum) Tel: (01) 533 9031 (Riding School) or 5252 43450 (Lipizzaner Museum). Website: www.spanische-reitschule.com or www.lipizzaner.at Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (museum); Tues-Sat 1000-1200 (morning training sessions). Guided tours Tues-Sat in the afternoon. Gala performances are usually held on Sunday morning at 1100, occasionally on Friday evenings. Admission charge.

Schlo Schnbrunn (Schnbrunn Palace) Schnbrunn Palace is Vienna's answer to Versailles and was used as the summer residence of the Habsburgs from the 18th century until 1918. Of the 1,441 rooms in the palace and its adjacent buildings, 40 state rooms are open to the public. The goldenyellow palace is set within equally magnificent gardens, landscaped in the baroque style, with some fabulous views. The palace and gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Gloriette is a triumphal arch that stands on the hilltop behind the palace and affords a stunning view over the grounds and the city beyond. The Palmenhaus (Palm House) is an excellent example of late 19th-century architecture, with cast iron columns delicately holding up the glass walls and roof. The world's oldest zoo can be found in the park. It was commissioned in 1752, to amuse and educate the court. 13, Schnbrunn Palace Tel: (01) 81113 ext. 239. Website: www.schoenbrunn.at Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (Apr-Oct, until 1800 Jul and Aug); daily 0830-1630 (Nov-Mar). Admission charge. Belvedere The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere Palace), which was built in 1721-23 for Prince Eugene of Savoy, offers terrific views across the gardens to the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) and the city beyond. Artwork from the middle ages and the Baroque era is featured in the Unteres Belvedere. The Oberes Belvedere houses art from the 19th-century classical, Romantic and Biedermeier periods on the second floor and post1918 art on the ground floor. The first floor, however, is what draws visitors, with paintings by Gustav Klimt (including der Kss), Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka and other fin-de-sicle artists. 03, sterreichische Galerie Belvedere, Prinz Eugenstrasse 27 Tel: (01) 79557. Website: www.belvedere.at Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Oberes Belvedere); Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100 (Unteres Belvedere). Admission charge. Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) This museum was built to house the Imperial Hapsburg collections in one place, although these have now grown to such an extent that some are housed in the Hofburg and in Schnbrunn Palace (see above). The grand staircase here provides passage to the galleries, which include the Antiquities, Egyptian-Oriental and Coin collections. The Kunstkammer (art chamber) houses sculpture and decorative arts. The Gemldegalerie (picture gallery) has works by Old Masters, including Drer, Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian, and the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels in the world. 01, Maria-Theresien-Platz 1

Tel: (01) 525 240. Website: www.khm.at Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (until 2100 Thurs). Admission charge. MuseumsQuartier On the site of the former imperial stables, this large cultural complex, which opened in 2001, is one of the biggest of its kind in the world. Don't miss the excellent Leopold Museum, a must for anyone interested in Austrian art, and MUMOK, the Museum of Modern Art. The MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is a very pleasant place to hang out for a few hours, especially in summer, as the place is packed with students and young people relaxing outside or in one of the many cafes. 07, Museumplatz 1 Tel: (01) 523 5881 or 52570-0 (Leopold Museum) or 52500 (MUMOK). Website: www.mqw.at or www.leopoldmuseum.org or www.mumok.at Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2100 (Leopold Museum); Tues-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2100 (MUMOK). Admission charge Leopold Museum and MUMOK. Shopping The most interesting shopping locale in Vienna is the inner city, with its narrow streets and elegant facades. The large pedestrian zones on Krntnerstrasse and Graben meet at the strikingly modern Haas Haus, 01, Graben, the mirrored facade of which seems to mock St Stephen's Cathedral, standing opposite. In addition to exclusive shops, the Haas Haus has a platform on the top floor, for sightseers who fancy a more face-to-face encounter with the cathedral. There are a number of architectural gems in this district small shops with facades designed by some of Austria's most famous architects, as well as smaller side streets, often hiding unique and interesting retail opportunities. The Ringstrassengalerien, 01, Krtner Ring, offers the convenience of a shopping centre, a short walk from the Staatsoper. The traditional shopping street of the Viennese is Mariahilferstrasse, which stretches from the Ringstrasse towards the Westbahnhof rail station (above the U3 U-Bahn line) between the Sixth and Seventh Districts. This street is home to major international stores selling clothing, music and other familiar commodities, as well as the department store Gerngross, 07, Mariahilfer Strasse 42-48. Among the many markets in the city, the most popular with locals and tourists alike is the Naschmarkt, a colourful array of fruit and vegetable stalls, shops and eateries, located between the Linke (left) and Rechte (right) Wienzeile streets, near Karlsplatz (beside Kettenbrkegasse U-Bahn station). The market is open within the normal shopping hours Monday to Saturday. Between 0800 and 1200 on Saturday, the Flohmarkt (Flea Market) comes alive at the far end of the Naschmarkt. Some incredible bargains in second-hand clothes and goods, as well as more than a few unusual items, are on sale here. There are a number of Christmas and Advent markets in the city during the festive season. The most popular is

the Christkindlmarkt, which is held in front of the Rathaus overlooking the Ringstrasse. Shoppers in search of souvenirs can choose from the many gifts that bear an image associated with Vienna - St Stephen's Cathedral, the Giant Ferris Wheel or the Lipizzaner horses. Something a bit more distinctive, such as the art deco works produced by the artisans of the Wiener Werksttten, is available from sterreichische Werksttten, 01, Krntnerstrasse 6. Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur Augarten, Europe's second oldest porcelain manufacturer, once supplied its hand-painted wares to the Imperial family. Nowadays, visitors can tour its factory at Augartenpalais, in the Second District (tel: (01) 2112 4200; website: www.augarten.at). Following strict criteria, the Vienna Chamber of Commerce only allows a limited number of companies to use the Wien Products' logo, a symbol of high quality craftsmanship (website: www.wienproducts.at). Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900-1800/1830 and Saturday 0900-1700 (many shops also stay open until 2130 on Thursday, and/or 1930 on Friday). The 20% VAT can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU, on goods with a value exceeding 75. Visitors can do this at the airport, if travelling to a non-EU country. Otherwise, the claim must be made in the final EU country visited. To make a claim, the tax-cheque must be filled in at the time of purchase. After check-in at the airport, the purchased items and tax-cheque must be taken to customs clearance. The customs official will provide a tax stamp, which may be redeemed at any of the airport banks for cash in a variety of currencies. The rebate can be up to 15% of the purchase price. WARSAW MINI GUIDE The images of Warsaw as a dull concrete jungle, a wasteland of Soviet-era housing with little appeal remain only with those who haven't visited this vibrant city in the past 10 years. The city does undoubtedly have its fair share of problems and whole swathes of its suburbs dominated by unsightly Socialist architecture, but this is only part of the picture. Warsaw is also a modern metropolis, with an impressive cultural scene, thriving nightlife, and a string of intriguing attractions. And it's a survivor - by the end of WWII, roughly 85% of the city lay in ruins and most of the population had fled, been killed, deported or sent to concentration camps. More than a third of Warsaw's pre-war population was Jewish, although there are hardly any traces of this heritage remaining, as the city's prosperous Jewish community was decimated by the end of the war. Much of Warsaw's historic centre was painstakingly recreated in the years after WWII, in a move by the communist authorities, which surprised the citizens of the city as it much as it did the West. The strikingly successful rebuilding of Warsaw's Old Town was finally rewarded in 1980, when the entire complex earned its place on the UNESCO World

Heritage List. Warsaw spans the Wisla (Vistula River) but most of the main tourist sites, including the historic centre, are on the left bank. The right bank contains the increasingly fashionable Praga district. The tourist epicentre of the city is the Royal Route', which runs north-south from the New and Old Towns, past the fashionable shops of Nowy wiat, the palaces that survived the war and the royal gardens of a zienki Park, before reaching Wilanw Palace to the south of the city centre. The city also boasts many green spaces, with leafy parks where rowing boats cruise past outdoor cafes, during the summer, and free classical concerts attract crowds in a scene far removed from the dull Communist-era images of Warsaw. The nightlife scene today is one of the best in Eastern Europe, with a multitude of bars and clubs scattered across the city, and the dining options have improved no end, with international cuisine regularly featured alongside Polish standards. The peak tourist season is from May to October, when the weather is most pleasant; January and February are the coldest months, where temperatures can drop well below zero. City Statistics Location: Mazowieckie province, east-central Poland. Dialling code: 48. Population: 1,702,000 (city); 2,210,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: -5C (23F). Average July temperatures: 19C (66F). Annual rainfall: 617mm (24 inches) (rainfall) 155mm (6 inches) (snowfall). Sightseeing Sightseeing in Warsaw is generally concentrated on the left bank of the Vistula River. The UNESCO World Heritage Old Town is unmissable - quite literally, seeing as many of the city's attractions and a whole host of cafes, bars and restaurants are located within its environs. The Old Town is both a physical and symbolic expression of the city's spirit and determination to come back from the brink of annihilation at the end of WWII. Most visitors to Warsaw spend their first day strolling around the Old Town, where you can find the opulent and impressive Royal Castle, once home of the Polish kings. Outside the historic centre is Wilanw, a charming palace on a grand scale, which was modelled on

Versailles. For many people, the very symbol of the city is the voluminous Palace of Culture and Science, which was gifted to Warsaw by Stalin. The viewing deck on the 30th floor is accessible via express lifts and this is the best venue for visitors to get acquainted with the layout of the city. Warsaw boasts a number of green lungs and a zienki Park is one of the most relaxing, with its Palace on the Water and boating lake. The city is also home to an impressive array of cultural attractions, with a string of museums, including the National Museum, Warsaw Rising Museum, Chopin Museum and the haunting Pawiak Museum, which was used as a prison under the Nazis. Tourist Information Punkt Informacji Turystycznej (Tourist Information Point) Central Railway Station, Aleje Jerozolimskie 54 Tel: (022) 9431. Website: www.warsawtour.pl Opening hours: Daily 0800-2000 (May-Sep); daily 0800-1800 (Oct-Apr). Service is friendly, efficient, and the staff speak English. They can also make hotel reservations, and produce a weekly leaflet listing the latest on cultural events and activities for the week. Passes You can buy the Warsaw Tourist Card from tourist points and some hotels. This enables you to enjoy free city public transport and free or discounted entrance fees to many museums and select hotels. It is available for one or three days. Key Attractions Zamek Krlewski (Royal Castle) Walking through the Royal Castle, you have to constantly remind yourself that most of it was reconstructed between 1971 and 1984, although the darker elements of the dcor were actually salvaged from the ruins. The castle, located on a plateau overlooking the Vistula River, was built for the Dukes of Mazovia and expanded when King Zygmunt III Vasa moved the capital to Warsaw. From the early 17th until the late 18th century, this was the seat of the Polish kings. It subsequently housed the parliament and is now a museum displaying tapestries, period furniture, coffin portraits and collections of porcelain and other decorative arts. Work is underway to recreate the castle gardens, set on the slopes of the Vistula River, which were also badly scarred when the Nazis levelled the rest of the castle complex. Plac Zamkovy 4 (ticket office situated at Ulica Swietojanska 2) Tel: (022) 355 5170. Website: www.zamek-krolewski.com.pl Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1800, Sun and Mon 1100-1800. Last visitors admitted an hour before closing.

Admission charge; free admission on Mondays (Jul-Sep). a zienki Park In addition to a number of palaces, a zienki Park contains the Chopin Monument (where the annual Chopin Festival is held each summer, with free concert recitals in the park twice on Sunday from June to August) and the Orangerie, set within extensive 18th-century gardens. Paa c Na Wyspie (Palace on the Water) is best viewed from near the monument to Jan Sobiewski, on the bridge where Ulica Agrykola crosses the water. Originally built in 1624, for King Zygmunt III Vasa, Zamek Ujazdowski (Ujazdowski Castle) now houses the Centre of Contemporary Art, although the centre is set to move locations in the coming years. The 1764 Pa ac Belweder (Belvedere Palace) was the residence of King Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski and later of Poland's 20th-century presidents. On warm summer days, rowing boats offer short cruises around the park's lake. Cycling is banned in the park. Ulica Agrykola 1 Tel: (022) 625 7944. Website: www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Opening hours: Most museums are open Tues-Sun 0900-1600; park open daily from 0800 until sunset. Free admission to the park; charge for Palace on the Water and for the Orangerie. Wilanw Palace In the mid 1600s, King Jan III Sobieski commissioned Augustyn Locci to build the baroque palace and garden of Wilanw for his summer residence. Construction continued from 1677 until the king's death in 1696. It remained popular with subsequent monarchs. Visitors can tour the interior and the gallery, which features portraits of famous Poles. Artistic handicrafts are on display in the Orangerie. Also here is the Muzeum Plakatu w Wilanowie (Poster Museum at Wilanow), the first of its kind in the world. Entrance to the palace requires a guide, for a group of one to 35 people, although the park is open to unaccompanied visitors. Restoration work is ongoing but affects few visits. Ulica Wiertnicza 1 Tel: (022) 842 8101. Website: www.wilanow-palac.art.pl Opening hours: Palace open Mon, Wed and Sat 0930-1830, Tues, Thurs and Fri 09301630, Sun 1030-1830 (May-mid Sep); Mon and Wed-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1030-1630 (mid Sep-May); park open daily 0900 until sunset. Admission charge for both the park and the palace; free admission to the park on Thursdays and the palace on Sundays. Pawiak Prison This eerie old prison symbolises the oppression that has haunted Varsovians over the last two centuries. Originally built in the 1830s, at the order of the ruling Czars, the prison incarcerated many victims of the Nazi reign of terror from 1939-1944, when it served as the largest political prison in Poland. A third of the estimated 100,000

detainees never made it out alive. The Nazis tried to dynamite the evidence of their crimes as they left but Pawiak is back as a museum and a testament to the city's seemingly endless ability to suffer and survive. Ulica Dzielna 24/26 Tel: (022) 831 1317. Opening hours: Wed and Fri 0900-1700, Thurs and Sat 0900-1600, Sun 1000-1600. Free admission. Narodowe (National Museum) The National Museum's impressive art collection dates from ancient times to the present day. Highlights include Jan Matejko's monumental Battle of Grunwald (1878), which celebrates the Polish victory over the Teutonic Knights in 1410, and a collection of Egyptian art, which is unique in Europe. Unusually, there are also galleries of Polish and European decorative arts. Frequent temporary exhibitions bring prized international works (from Andy Warhol to Caravaggio) to Warsaw. Aleje Jerozolimskie 3 Tel: (022) 621 1031. Website: www.mnw.art.pl Opening hours: Permanent galleries Tues-Sun 1000-1600; temporary galleries Tues-Wed 1000-1600, Thurs-Fri 1000-2000, Sat-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge; free on Saturdays Katedra w Jana (St John's Cathedral) St John's is claimed to be the oldest church in Warsaw. Although a major church in the Mazovian gothic style, completed in the 15th century, St John's was only upgraded from a parish church to a cathedral in 1798. Destroyed during WWII, it has been reconstructed in its original style and features major gothic art works by Wit Stwosz. The cathedral was used in 1764 for the coronation of the last Polish king (Stanislaw II) and for the swearing in of the Sejm (Polish parliament) after the constitution of 1791. The covered footbridge connecting it to the Royal Palace was the result of a failed assassination attempt on King Zygmunt III. Ulica wit ojas ka 8 Tel. (022) 831 0289. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1400-1800 (cathedral); daily 1000-1300 and 1500-1730 (crypt). Free admission to cathedral; admission charge for the crypt. Getto ydowskie (Jewish Ghetto) What is markedly absent from Warsaw contributes as much to its history as anything that has been preserved or reconstructed. Pre-war Warsaw had a Jewish population second only to New York. After the Nazi invasion, some 380,000 Jews were rounded up and forced into the city's Jewish ghetto. A 3m- (10ft-) high wall encircled the area, from the Palace of Culture and Science to the Umschlagplatz monument, corner of Ulica Stawki and Ulica Dzika. This stark monument, erected in the late 1980s, marks the place

from where Jews were despatched by train to the Treblinka concentration camp, following the Ghetto Uprising of 19 April 1943. The centre of the ghetto is marked by the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, Ulica L Zamenhofa, which was erected on a sea of ruins in 1948. Other memorials are the Monument of the Killed and Murdered in the East, Ulica Muranowska, and the 1944 Warsaw Uprising Monument, Plac Krasinskich. Only three sections of the actual ghetto wall remain. You can pick up the Jewish Warsaw' leaflet from tourist centres; it highlights places of interest that connect to Jewish history. Notable points include: the No yk Synagogue, which is the only existing Warsaw synagogue to have survived the war, possibly because it was used as a Nazi warehouse; the Jewish Historical Institute, which includes artwork exhibits and library and photographic archives; and the Jewish Cemetery, founded in 1806 and still used. There are also plans for the Museum of the History of Polish Jews (website: www.jewishmuseum.org.pl) opposite the Ghetto Heroes monument, which will be funded by Jewish groups around the world. No yk Synagogue Ulica Twarda 6 Tel: (022) 620 4324. Website: www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sun 1100-1800 (May-Sep); Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sun 1100-1600 (Oct-Apr). Admission charge. Jewish Historical Institute and Ronald S Lauder Foundation Genealogy Project Ulica T omackie 3/5 Tel: (022) 827 9221. Website: www.jhi.pl Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri 0900-1600, Thurs 1100-1800. Admission charge. Jewish Cemetery Ulica Okopowa 49/51 Tel: (022) 838 2622. Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 1000-1600, Fri 0900-1300, Sun 0900-1600. Admission charge. Warsaw Rising Museum This is a must-see museum for those with any interest in history and tales of bravery. In order to get a taste of what life in Warsaw must have been like for all Poles during WWII, this thoroughly comprehensive museum shows examples of how residents resisted the German forces through film footage, photographs, recorded interviews, lifesize dioramas, soundscapes and informative plaques, written in both Polish and English. Cityscape pictures pinpointing the handful of buildings that survived WWII are located on the museum's elevated viewing platform; they are a grim reminder of the destruction wrought by the Nazis on the city.

Ulica Przyokopowej 28 Tel: (022) 539 7905. Website: www.1944.pl Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Fri 0800-1800, Thurs 0800-2000, Sat-Sun 1000-1800. Closed Tues. Admission charge. Shopping The political transformations of 1989 were quickly reflected in the hundreds of new shops that sprang up all over Warsaw. Since then, shops have come and gone with surprising regularity, but there are some that have withstood the test of time. There are also licensed and illegal street vendors that offer wares ranging from cloth napkins, wooden sculptures, cooking pots and freshly picked mushrooms. The main shopping streets are the restored Ulica Chmielna, elegant Nowy wiat, Ulica Marszalkowska and Aleje Jerozolimskie. Shopping arcades, both in and outside of the city centre, have become very popular, including Galeria Centrum, Ulica Marszalkowska 104/122, the biggest shopping oasis in Warsaw, Arkadia, Aleja Jana Pawla II 82, and the newest of all, Z ote Tarasy, Ulica Z ota 59. These malls have both national and internationally known brands including H&M, Levi's and Zara, and often house cinemas and restaurants. Probably the best spot in Warsaw for souvenir hunting is in the Old Town, among the colourful facades and artists' stalls. The Cepelia stores are also worth a visit for Polish handicrafts such as lace, dolls, amber and silver jewellery and leather goods. To pick up some wonderful Boleslawiec pottery, visit the outlet on Ulica Marszak owska 99/101. Desa Unicum shops specialise in art and antiques and a savvy shopper can pick up some choice pieces here; the most central store is located at Old Town Square 4/6. With the temporary demise of Europe's largest flea market, known locally as the Russian Market, Warsaw's market scene is a little bare. There are still a few spots worth visiting however, such as Bazat na Kole (ul Obozowa) in the western reaches of the city, which has mountains of junk and antiques to sift through, ranging from CDs to WWII relics. Fingers crossed the local council finds a spot for the Russian Market to reopen soon. Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 1000/1100-1800/2000 and Saturday 10001300/1600. In the past five years, 30 shopping centres and hypermarkets of all the major European chains have opened in Warsaw. Often open seven days a week, these are the best places to stock up on Polish staples - such as pickled herring, preserved meats and, last but not least, vodka. VAT is applied at rates of 3%, 7% and 22%, depending on the goods or services bought. Tax-free shopping is available to nonresidents of the EU if a minimum of ZL200 is spent in one transaction at participating outlets. ZAGREB MINI GUIDE

Central European in appearance and spirit, Zagreb bears the hallmark of centuries spent under Vienna and Budapest. The capital of Croatia, with just over a million inhabitants (a quarter of the nation), Zagreb is the country's economic, industrial and administrative powerhouse. Founded in the Middle Ages, Zagreb began life as two separate entities, Kaptol and Gradec, which today comprise the historic Gornji Grad (Upper Town). Centred around the city's landmark cathedral, Kaptol was a religious centre, while Gradec was home to craftsmen and merchants. Outsiders collectively referred to the settlements as Zagreb (meaning 'behind the hill'), although they were not officially united as the City of Zagreb until 1850. Boom time followed with the late 19th century characterised by the arrival of the railways and the construction of Donji Grad (Lower Town). Next came industrialisation and the influx of migrant labour. Croatia's war of independence (1991-1995) saw Zagreb flounder as its industry collapsed and refugees flooded the city. Today the difficult days of the early 1990s seem a world away. A strong national economy, coupled with investment in business and tourism, has restored the city to its former glory. For the visitor this translates as an ever-increasing choice of plush accommodation and a plethora of chic bars and restaurants, as well as the chance to ride on shiny new trams and to see some of Croatia's most important cultural sights. It is perhaps no surprise, then, that Zagreb is confidently leading Croatia towards full integration into the European Union, with accession predicted as early as 2009. City Statistics Location: Inland Croatia. Dialling code: 358. Population: 1,200,000. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: -1C (30F). Average July temperatures: 19C (66F). Annual rainfall: 890mm (35 inches). Sightseeing The city centre lies in two parts: Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town) which meet at Trg Bana Jelai a , the main square. Picturesque Gornji Grad is made up of higgledy-piggledy cobbled streets and buildings dating from medieval times up to the 19th century, including the katedrala (cathedral), Crkva Svetog Marka (St Marks' Church), the Sabor (croatian parliament), the Metrovi Atelier and Dolac (the open-air market). In contrast, Donji Grad follows a geometrical grid-plan, with a series of green squares rimmed by Austro-Hungarian buildings erected from the late 19th century onwards, most notably the Glavni Kolodvor (main train station), the Kazaliste

(Theatre) and the Muzej Umjetnost i Obrt (Museum of Arts and Crafts). The Zagrebcard offers unlimited travel on city public transport, discounts in various museums, restaurants and hotels, as well as favourable deals with some car hire companies and travel agents. It is available from the Tourist Information Centre and most hotels, and is valid for 24 or 72 hours. Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre (TIC) Trg Bana Jela ia 11 Tel: (01) 481 4051. Website: www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr Key Attractions Trg Bana Jela ia (Ban Jelacic Square) This large paved piazza has been Zagreb's main square since Donji Grad came into being in the 19th century. Pedestrian-only (with the exception of trams) it's a lively public meeting place rimmed by several elegant pastel-coloured Secessionist facades and open-air cafes. The centrepiece is a bronze equestrian statue of its namesake, Ban Jelai a (Croatian viceroy under Austro-Hungary). Katedrala (Cathedral) There has been a church on this site since the 12th century, but today's neogothic facade with twin steeples was erected after the 1880 earthquake. Inside, on the north wall, note a 12th-century inscription in Glagolithic script (a predecessor to Cyrillic). Kaptol 31, Gornji Grad Tel: (01) 481 4727. Markov Trg (St Mark's Square) Zagreb's main square until the 19th century is home to the neoclassical Sabor (parliament) and the baroque Banski Dvori (Ban's Court Palace). The centrepiece is Crkva Svetog Marka (St Mark's Church), best known for its eccentric red-white-and-blue tiled roof featuring the coats of arms for Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia, which was added to this 13th-centueryy building in 1880. Gornji Grad Metrovi Atelier Croatia's best-known 20th-century sculptor, Ivan Metrovi, lived and worked here intermittently during the 1920s. It is now a charming memorial museum, exhibiting a collection of his sculptures and sketches. Mleta ka 8, Gornji Grad Tel: (01) 485 1123. Website: www.mdc.hr

Muzej za Umjetnost i Obrt (Museum of Arts and Crafts) A walk through the history of Croatian design, with furniture, ceramics, silverware, glassware, textiles and clocks displayed in chronological order, from the baroque period up to the industrial age. The building itself dates from 1880. Trg Marala Tita 10, Donji Grad Tel: (01) 488 2111. Website: www.muo.hr Shopping The highlight of shopping in Zagreb has to be a visit to Dolac, the market on the north side of Trg Bana Jelai a , open Monday to Friday 0700 to 1600 (Saturday and Sunday 0700 to 1200). Colourful stalls vending fruit, vegetables and flowers set up on the raised piazza outside, while an indoor area below displays meats and dairy products. Visitors looking for reasonably priced souvenirs and gifts should check out the craft stalls behind the fruit and vegetable section. Croatian wines, rakija (traditional spirit), olive oils and truffle products make perfect presents: purchase them in Bornstein, Kaptol 19, a charming vaulted brick cellar in Gornji Grad. Fashion buffs can shop in the likes of Emporio Armani, Frane Petria 5, Escada, Gundulie va 15, and Mango, Ilica 20. Other big European high street names are also represented along Ilica and Vlaska, which run west and east respectively off Trg Bana Jelai a . Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900 to1300 and 1700 to 2000 and Saturday 0900 to 1300. ZURICH MINI GUIDE Synonymous with international banking, Zurich (Zrich or, more familiarly, Zri) has a financial and cultural importance that belies its modest size. The largest city in Switzerland, Zurich promotes itself as 'Downtown Switzerland'. The historic centre is compact enough to be explored on foot. Zurich is located on Switzerland's central plain, with the elevation rising towards the south and the Alps. Positioned at the northern tip of the Zrichsee (Lake Zurich), the city's fine lakeside promenades and expensive houses are prominent and can be spotted along both shores. Zurich's most familiar sights are, without a doubt, the Fraumnster and Grossmnster churches, which solemnly face each other across the River Limmat. The Old Town spans this river, and some of the most interesting lanes and buildings are clustered along its banks. The nearby Lindenhof was once the site of a Roman customs post and is a good vantage point. Surrounding the Old Town, the kreis (districts) of Zurich are arranged clockwise around the city centre, with the numbers corresponding to the last digit in the postcode. In summer, the view of the city is beautiful, with the lake reflecting the mountains and

clear blue sky. The winter snowfalls bring a magic of their own. Zurich dates its origins from 15BC, when the Roman customs post of Turicum was founded. By the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city. It was at the centre of the Swiss religious Reformation in the 16th century, under the leadership of Huldrych Zwingli. His motto pray and work' was to have a profound effect on this diligent city, which, by the 19th century, had grown into the commercial and financial centre of Switzerland. The modern Zurich is a city of bankers in a country of banks. This concentration of wealth can most readily be seen along the Bahnhofstrasse, flanked by lime trees. All the major Swiss banks have a presence here, notably at the Paradeplatz, where elegant shops and designer boutiques line the street, interspersed with trendy bars and attractive cafes. Other riches lie in the city's excellent universities - Zurich is a powerhouse for research, with public-private partnerships leading to innovations both in design and the high-tech sector. The city also has a strong cultural presence - there are over 50 museums, art galleries, auction houses, the opera, orchestras and the Schauspielhaus theatre, as well as a number of performance spaces that encourage contemporary artists in all media. For those who find the comfortable burgher lifestyle a little too tame, there are always alternative places to seek out. This is, after all, the city that saw the birth of the artistic movement of Dadaism - the antithesis of conformity. City Statistics Location: Kanton Zrich (Zurich canton), north central Switzerland. Dialling code: 41. Population: 350,200 (city); 1.2 million (Zurich canton). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 230 volts AC, 50Hz; round three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: - 0.5C (31F). Average July temperatures: 18C (64F). Annual rainfall: 1,142mm (45 inches). Sightseeing Most of Zurich's sights lie within the compact area on either side of the River Limmat, between the Hauptbahnhof and Lake Zurich. The churches and burgher houses of the Old Town are clustered here, as are the elegant shops along Bahnhofstrasse. The baroque Rathaus (Town Hall), Zurich's most impressive churches - the Grossmnster, Fraumnster - and the city's oldest, St Peterskirche (its clock face is the largest in Europe), all lie within a short distance of the River Limmat, near the point at which it opens onto the lake.

Tourist Information Zrich Tourismus Bahnhofbrcke 1 (in the Hauptbahnhof) Tel: (044) 215 4000. Website: www.zuerich.com Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2030, Sun 0830-1830 (May-Oct); Mon-Sat 0830-1900, Sun 0900-1830 (Nov-Apr). Passes The ZrichCARD (available for 24 or 72 hours) allows unlimited travel within the Zurich canton, free admission to over 40 museums, reduced admission to the zoo, complimentary welcome drink at over 20 restaurants and a half-price guided stroll in the Old Town. You can buy the cards at the train stations, many hotels and some of the main VBZ ticket offices around town (including Central, Paradeplatz and Bellevue). Key Attractions Grossmnster The twin towers of this attractive cathedral (the largest in Zurich and the city's symbol) face onto the River Limmat and are best seen from Rathausbrcke. Originally endowed by Charlemagne, parts of this minster date back to the 11th and 13th centuries, notably the crypt, which is the largest of its kind in Switzerland. Recent archaeological discoveries suggest the existence of a Roman cemetery underneath the church. There are remains of a romanesque cloister, 12th-century statuary and stained glass in the choir by Augusto Giacometti (Alberto's cousin). The Karlsturm tower has 187 steps; there is no lift. Grossmnsterplatz Tel: (044) 252 5949. Website: www.grossmuenster.ch Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (15 Mar-31 Oct); daily 1000-1700 (1 Nov-14 Mar). Tower: Mon-Sat 0915-1700, Sun 1230-1700 (15 Mar-Oct); Mon-Fri 1000- 1630, Sun 1230-1630 (Nov-14 Mar, weather permitting). Free admission (charge for tower). Fraumnster Although this beautiful church dates from the ninth century (when it was a Benedictine abbey), it is often the five 20th-century stained-glass windows in the choir by Marc Chagall (1970) that attract visitors. These glass works of art are best seen in the morning light. The current church dates from the 13th century, although the undercroft contains the original abbey crypt. The Fraumnster spire is an elegant and notable landmark dating from 1732. The rest of the church is predominantly gothic, although the choir is romanesque. The site was originally endowed by Charlemagne's grandson, the German king Ludwig, in 853 and later became the church of the Zurich noblewomen's convent. The stained-glass windows in the north transept are by Alberto Giacometti's cousin, Augusto.

Am Mnsterhofplatz Tel: (044) 211 4100. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1115-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1115-1600 (Nov-Mar). Closed during services. Free admission. Kunsthaus Zrich (Zurich Art Gallery) This is the city's most important art gallery, boasting a collection of paintings and sculptures by Swiss and international masters, covering most periods from medieval times but predominately from the 19th and 20th centuries. Two of Monet's Water Lilies paintings and the largest collection of Edvard Munch's works outside Norway can be found here, as well as expressionist pieces by Kokoschka, Beckmann and Corinth. Pieces by the Dadaists and the world's most important collection of work by Alberto Giacometti are a highlight. Tours are available in English if reserved beforehand. Heimplatz 1 Tel: (044) 253 8484. Website: www.kunsthaus.ch Opening hours: Tues, Sat-Sun 1000-1800, Wed-Fri 1000-2000. Closed Mon. Admission charge. Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum) The Swiss National Museum lies on a landscaped triangle of parkland between the Hauptbahnhof and the Limmat and Sihl rivers, and has fulfilled the role of the nation's attic for over a century. Special exhibits in this castle-like museum supplement the permanent display of items related to Switzerland and Swiss culture. These include not only paintings and sculpture but also weapons, flags, watches, clocks, tools, toys and prehistoric objects. Museumstrasse 2 Tel: (044) 218 6511. Website: www.musee-suisse.ch Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge. Zunfthaus zur Meisen (zur Meisen' Guild Hall) The 'zur Meisen' Guild Hall, opposite the Fraumnster, has exhibits of 18th-century Swiss pottery and china. The elegant rococo galleries are an appropriate setting for the beautifully decorated porcelain figurines that were produced in Kilchberg-Schooren, Zurich and other porcelain and pottery factories. The building itself, built in 1757, is considered to be the most beautiful of all the Zrich guild houses. Mnsterhof 20 Tel: (044) 221 2807. Website: www.musee-suisse.ch Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.

Admission charge. Museum Rietberg The collection of the Rietberg Museum of Non-European Art is the only art museum for non-European cultures in Switzerland. It is housed within two buildings dating from the 1850s which are set within the Rieterpark. The Villa Wesendonck has special exhibitions in addition to its collection of Indian, Chinese and African art (the core of which is the sculpture collection donated by Baron Eduard von der Heydt), while the Park-Villa Rieter has paintings from China, Japan and India. The latter also holds occasional world music concerts. Villa Wesendonck and Park-Villa Rieter Gablerstrasse 15 Tel: (044) 206 3131. Website: www.rietberg.ch Opening hours: Fri-Tues 1000-1700, Wed-Thurs 1000-2000. Admission charge. Migros Museum fr Gegenwartskunst (Museum of Contemporary Art) Devoted to collecting and exhibiting contemporary art, especially from the 1990s, the Museum of Contemporary Art features a core collection of works of the Migros Cooperative Society in the open-concept exhibition space. These create a dialogue with the rotating exhibitions and special installations. There are both solo and group exhibitions. Limmatstrasse 270 Tel: (044) 277 2050. Website: www.migrosmuseum.ch Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri 1200-1800, Thurs 1200-2000, Sat and Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge. Shopping Zurich makes shopping a pleasure - elegant boutiques, department stores and speciality shops are clustered in the Old Town, interspersed with cafes and bars for those necessary breaks. Most shops are open Monday to Friday 0900 or 0930-1830 and Saturday 0830-1600 or 1700. Many, except for the large stores, close for lunch. Latenight shopping on Thursday is until 2000. By law, shops cannot stay open longer than 2000 on weekdays and 1700 on Saturday. VAT is charged at a rate of 7.6% and can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr400 or more, as long as the purchaser is resident outside Switzerland and the goods are exported within 30 days. The most fashionable shopping street is Bahnhofstrasse, which stretches from the Hauptbahnhof past Paradeplatz to the lake. High-quality Swiss goods, jewellers, watchmakers and international designer labels can be found here. There are more boutiques tucked away to the east; Rennweg, Limmatquai and the pedestrian alleys of the Niederdorf are a good starting point. More alternative (and cheaper) shops can be

found in the newly-fashionable districts of Sihl and Zurich West. On Saturdays from May to October, Brkliplatz fills with stalls during the weekly flea market. Interesting antiques and hand-made artefacts are sold at Rosenhof in the Old Town, Thursdays and Saturdays from March to the end of November. Uniquely Swiss gifts are fine chocolates, Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery, linen and handmade clocks. Schweizer Heimatwerk, Bahnhofstrasse 2 and Uraniastrasse 1, has a good selection of traditional and modern Swiss design especially wooden folk toys, while Confiserie Sprngli, Bahnhofstrasse 21, is renowned for its chocolates. It is also Zurich's oldest pastry shop and the first to permit women to drink coffee in public. The shop also serves dozens of savoury hors d'oeurves and over 50 types of chocolate. However, their speciality is the tiny patented Luxemburgerli biscuit, which is sold in a variety of flavours. Another famous Swiss chocolatier, Teuscher, which specialises in hand-made truffles and seasonal confectionery (including chocolate flowers in spring and chocolate chestnuts in autumn), has its main store in the Old Town (Storchengasse 9).

Jerusalem Mini Guide

Few cities inspire as much passion as Jerusalem (Yerushalayim in Hebrew, Al-Quds in Arabic), rooted deep in the past and revered by three major religions. With a pleasant climate its extraordinary historical sites and world-class museums, Jerusalem fascinatingly contrasts ancient and modern, oriental and western. The larger part of the city, including the city centre with its shopping and leisure district, is vibrant, Jewish West Jerusalem, characterized by avenues, busy pedestrian streets and squares, cafes, restaurants and vivacious nightlife. Smaller East Jerusalem, predominantly Arab, is a 19th-century neighborhood lying north of the Old City. It has a slow but chaotic pace of life, with crowded street markets. Most sights are found in The Old City on the eastern boundary. Enclosed within 16th-century stone walls, are a labyrinth of winding lanes where visitors to the city spend much of their time. The Old City is divided into quarters, named after its four major communities in the 19th century: Arab, Jewish, Christian and Armenian. Within minutes, you may wander from calm squares to the hustle and bustle of an Arab market, or an Armenian garden, and then arrive at a medieval castle. Jerusalem came into being over 3000 years ago as the site of the Jewish Temple. The Western Wall at the foot of Temple Mount is all that survives of the Temple, destroyed by the Romans, yet it remains Judaism's most valued place of prayer. Extensive restoration and archaeological exploration gives astonishing insight into the structure and layout of the vast Temple in the time of Jesus. For Orthodox and Catholic Christians, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre encloses the site of the Crucifixion and tomb where Jesus was laid, having carried the cross. The Muslim's beautiful gilded Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount is Jerusalem's most iconic landmark, while Al-Aqsa mosque, beside it, is proclaimed Islam's third holiest shrine. Israel declared Jerusalem its capital in 1950. City Statistics Location:Judea, Israel.Dialling code: 972. Population: 736,000 (city). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from 31 March to 1 October 2006; changes every year). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; unique Israeli three-square-pin plugs are standard in newer buildings (many sockets also accept older two-pronged plugs). Average January temperatures: 9C (48F).

Average July temperatures: 23C (73F). Annual rainfall: 486mm (19 inches). Sightseeing

The compact size of Israel means that almost anywhere (with the exception of Eilat) is accessible for a day trip from Jerusalem. The coastal cities of Tel Aviv and Haifa, or the coastal ruins of ancient Caesarea, can easily be visited in a day, as can the area around the Sea of Galilee. The first stop for any visitor has to be the Old City, which contains the sacred sites, and is divided into quarters (the Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim) each with its unique identity and character.
Tourist Information Israeli Government Tourist Office (IGTO) Tourist Information Center, Jaffa Gate, Old City. Tel: (02) 628 0382. Website: www.jerusalem.muni.il Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0830-1545, Fri 0830-1245. Passes A two-day pass for the 99 bus, which gives a guided tour of the city, will allow discounted entry to the Israel Museum, Tower of David Museum and the Biblical Zoo. It can be bought at ticket offices at these sites or from the bus drivers (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City).

Key Attractions
Temple Mount Temple Mount (Har Habayit in Hebrew, Al Haram ash-Sharif in Arabic), also called Mount Moriah, is sacred to both Islam and Judaism. It is a natural hill, which was built up artificially to support the huge Jewish Temple that stood here for a thousand years in Biblical times. Temple Mount has remained the focus of the Jewish religion ever since - when praying, Jews worldwide still face Temple Mount. It was from a black rock within the complex, that, according to the Koran, Muhammad made his ascension to Heaven at the conclusion of his dreamt Night Ride' from Mecca, and, according to the Bible, it was here that Abraham offered Isaac for sacrifice. With the arrival of Islam in the seventh century, the octagonal, bluetiled Dome of the Rock, with its huge gold dome, was built over the large black rock. Dominating the skyline of the Old City, its dome glinting in the sunshine, this beautiful building is Jerusalem's most famous landmark and an absolute must for visitors. Also on Temple Mount is the Al Aqsa Mosque, the oldest mosque in Israel and (unlike the Dome of the Rock) an actual place of Muslim worship. Its silver dome dates from the 11th century. The Islamic Museum, the third building within the complex, contains Islamic artefacts and relics. Only one of the 10 gates to the complex, Al-Mughradia (Moors) gate, allows entry for non-worshippers. This is located to the right of the Western Wall and is accessed from Western Wall Plaza. Access from Western Wall Plaza (Old City)

Website: www.al-aqsa.com (Muslim site) or www.templemount.org (Jewish site) Opening hours: Closed during all prayer times (variable); otherwise Sun-Thurs 0730-1030 and 1230-1330; Sun-Thurs 0730-1030 (during Ramadan); closed to non-Muslims Fri and Muslim holidays. During periods of tension, the site may be closed. Free admission for Temple Mount; charge for Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque and Islamic Museum combined ticket. Western Wall Situated along one side of a vast plaza at the bottom of Temple Mount is the historic Western Wall (HaKotel in Hebrew). Also historically known as the Wailing Wall (a name offensive to some Jews) from the sounds of Jews chanting lamentations on Tisha b'Av, the annual fast, mourning the destruction of the Temple. The Western Wall, constructed of massive rough blocks of golden stone, is a remnant of the outer retaining walls of the Second Temple as reconstructed by Herod in 30BC (the First Temple, constructed by Solomon, occupied the same site but was destroyed by the Babylonians). Since the final complete destruction of the Temple by the Romans in AD70, the Western Wall has been the holiest place of prayer for the Jewish people. Jews come from all over the world to pray or to contemplate. Some place notes with hopes, dreams and messages of goodwill in the cracks of the Wall. In keeping with Orthodox Jewish practice (because the entire site is technically an Orthodox synagogue) the length of the Wall has been divided into separate sections for men and women. Any man or woman may enter their respective section, provided men have their heads covered (visitors can borrow a kippah or skullcap when entering) and women are modestly dressed. The Wall can be reached either through the Dung Gate or through the Jewish Quarter of the Old City. Western Wall Plaza (Old City) Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Citadel or Tower of David The tall, slender stone tower rising elegantly from the ancient walls of the Old City is almost as familiar an image of Jerusalem as the Dome of the Rock. But despite its name, the citadel has nothing to do with King David (the city's founder) and was in fact constructed in the first century BC, as a fortress for Herod the Great. It has therefore formed part of Jerusalem's defence structure for over 2,000 years. What remains today is largely medieval. It now houses the outstanding Museum of the History of Jerusalem, which vividly chronicles the entire history of the city. The Citadel's tallest tower, the Phasael, offers a superb panorama over the Old City. The main entrance is adjacent to Jaffa Gate. Beside Jaffa Gate (Old City) Tel: (02) 626 5333. Website: www.towerofdavid.org.il Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-1400 (Apr-Oct); Sat-Thurs 1000-1600, Fri 1000-1400 (NovMar). Admission charge. Via Dolorosa

The Via Dolorosa (literally Road of Sorrow') is the route believed to have been walked by Jesus as he carried the Cross to his crucifixion at Calvary or Golgotha. The route begins at the Lion's Gate, passes through the Muslim Quarter and leads to the Calvary in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is marked along the way by the 14 Stations of the Cross. The stations indicate events along the journey and at some of these points churches have been founded. Every year, tens of thousands of pilgrims walk this route in the belief that they are following in the footsteps of Christ. Old City Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Church of the Holy Sepulchre Containing the last five Stations of the Cross of the Via Dolorosa, this is the holiest Christian site in Jerusalem. Upon entering the church, the little stairway to the right lead to the Chapel of Golgotha and three Stations of the Cross - where Jesus was stripped, crucified and removed from the cross. The Sepulchre itself is at the centre of the church and marks where Jesus is believed to have been buried and resurrected. Downstairs is the Angel's Chapel, where the resurrected Christ made known himself to Mary Magdalene. The site of the church was first chosen in the fourth century by Queen Helena and the existing structure dates mainly from the period of the Crusades. It is divided into sections, which are each under the jurisdiction of a different Christian denomination. Protestants do not accept that this was the site of the Crucifixion or Resurrection. Christian Quarter Road (Old City) Tel: (02) 627 3314. Opening hours: Daily 0530-2100 (summer); daily 0430-2000 (winter). Free admission. Yad Vashem The name of this, the world's most important Holocaust memorial, means A Hand and a Name', the word hand also meaning memorial' and implying that every victim will be individually remembered. Yad Vashem (or the Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' Remembrance Authority) is located on the western edge of Jerusalem. It is best known as a monument to the devastation wreaked upon the Jewish people by the Nazis during WWII. There are indoor and outdoor exhibits, including museums, memorials, sculpture and a research and documentation centre. The tree-lined Avenue of the Righteous Among the Nations commemorates and honours gentiles who risked their lives to save Jews and leads to the Historical Museum, Yad Vashem's prism-like central concrete structure lying mainly below ground, where the course of Hitler's Final Solution' is traced. The Hall of Remembrance is a solemn tent-like structure that allows visitors to pay their respects to the dead. Also contained within the Yad VaShem complex is the wooded, walled Valley of the Communities, recording the names of Jewish communities wiped out in their entirety, and the Hall of Names, where the names and details of over three and a half million individual victims have been recorded and are being constantly added to. There is also a poignant Art Museum, containing work produced by Jewish inmates of the death camps. Possibly the most moving, however, is the Children's Memorial, where, in a dark underground chamber, names from the list of 1.5 million children murdered in the Holocaust are constantly

read out. Har Hazikaron (near Mount Herzl, western edge of the city) Tel: (02) 644 3400. Website: www.yadvashem.org Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0900-1700 (2000 on Thurs), Fri 0900-1400. No entry under 10 years old (including babies). Free admission. The Israel Museum The Israel Museum is the nation's leading showcase for its archaeology, anthropology and art. It houses a vast number of fascinating exhibits relating to the long history and culture of the Jews in the region. Among the highlights are the modern sculptures of the Art Garden, the 20th-century artworks of the Art Pavilion, and the Archaeological Galleries, where major discoveries are displayed. In the Ethnography and Judaica wing, exhibits include a collection of ancient Jewish artefacts. A Youth Wing features hands-on activities for families and art classes for children. The museum's greatest treasure is contained in a striking separate building called the Shrine of the Book. Resembling the lid of an earthenware jar, this structure was created to hold and display the Dead Sea Scrolls and other ancient manuscripts. Discovered beside the Dead Sea at Qumran in 1947, the Scrolls consist of the oldest known scripts of the Torah or Pentateuch (the first five books of the Old Testament), as well as the enigmatic scrolls of an austere, scholarly Jewish sect apparently resident at Qumran. Ruppin Boulevard (near the Knesset, western edge of the city) Tel: (02) 670 8811. Website: www.imj.org.il Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Sat and holidays 1000-1600, Tues 1600-2100, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri 1000-1400. Admission charge.

Shopping
The Old City has much to offer, with the narrow, colorful market that follows the Street of the Chain from Jaffa Gate into the Muslim Quarter. Tiny open-fronted shops sell souvenirs of olive wood, silverwork, motherof-pearl, leather and hand-blown glass. Arabic sweets and pastries are also plentiful. Bargaining here is standard practice. As the Muslim Quarter leads into the Christian Quarter, souvenirs take the form of religious artifacts. Continuing into the Old City's Jewish Quarter, the Cardo has several exclusive shops selling clothing and objects d'art. Several hundred shops are listed by the Ministry of Tourism and display a special emblem as a symbol of fair pricing. These carry a range of goods from exclusive jewellery and diamonds to oriental carpets, ladies' wear and leather goods. Bargaining is not usual in Jewish shops and markets, although asking for a discount' on some credible pretext can sometimes bring an immediate price reduction. In the city centre (west Jerusalem), shops and streets are much the same as in southern Europe. For traditional crafts and Judaica head for the House of Quality, the Hutzot Hayotser Arts and Crafts Lane, and the ultra-Orthodox Mea Shearim area. The city's busiest shopping thoroughfare is chaotic Jaffa Street. There

are also large shopping malls, such as Jerusalem Mall in Malcha Street. Shopping in east Jerusalem maintains a strongly Arabic, Middle Eastern feel. The hub of this district is Damascus Gate, where traders gather daily, from dawn to dusk, to sell anything from household wares to fresh farm produce. This market is full of life unlike the markets of the Muslim Quarter, and sells to locals as well as tourists. Opening hours for shops are generally Sunday to Thursday 0900-1900 (some close daily between 1300 and 1600). Jewish-owned businesses, including almost all shops in west Jerusalem, are closed on Friday afternoon and Saturday for Shabbat. The Muslim Quarter and east Jerusalem are also quieter on Saturday. Trading on Friday, the Muslim holy day, is also quite restrained. Christian-owned shops close on Sundays. Value Added Tax (VAT), at a current rate of 15.5%, is quoted in the price of all goods and services. Tourists buying goods at shops listed by the Ministry of Tourism may be entitled to claim the tax back, provided the purchase cost US$100 or more and payment was made in foreign currency. Shoppers must obtain a special invoice form at the time of purchase. The form must be filled out and submitted at the airport and the refund is generally issued by post.

Tel Aviv Mini Guide

Lively avenues and squares, superb shopping, cafes and buzzing nightlife make this vivacious city one of the most exciting in the world. Incredibly, it's only 100 years old and celebrated its centenary in 2009. The sheer dynamism and determination of the place makes Tel Aviv seem a lot bigger than it really is. The city is smaller in area than Haifa or Jerusalem, but almost one-half of Israel's population live in the Greater Tel Aviv metropolitan area. Above all, Tel Aviv is a beach city. A broad expanse of fine sand extends more than 10km along the seashore. City residents pour onto the beach at any opportunity. Its wide promenade is a magnificent sight and runs all the way from the port leisure area in north Tel Aviv to the old quarter of Jaffa - a historic port-town in its own right, now a popular dining and leisure district of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv may seem brash, but explore the city centre to discover elegantly restored pre-War Bauhaus architecture and world-class concert halls, theatre and museums. Those willing to look under the surface cannot fail to be moved by the idealism that has created the largest Jewish city ever to exist. Tel Aviv was founded in 1909. City Statistics Location: Sharon plain, Mediterranean coast of Israel.

Dialling code: 972. Population: 382,500 (city); 3,040,400 (greater metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from 1 April to the Saturday between Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; unique Israeli three-square-pin plugs are standard in newer buildings (many sockets also accept older two-pronged plugs). Average January temperatures: 14C (57F). Average July temperatures: 29C (84F). Annual rainfall: 552mm (22 inches); almost all Nov-Apr. Sightseeing

Much of the original Tel Aviv, was built in the pre-war Bauhaus or internationalist style. The city now has the world's largest surviving collection of Bauhaus buildings, thousands of them currently being handsomely restored and returned to their original gleaming white colour. The unique urban and historical fabric of Tel Aviv-Jaffa has been recognised by UNESCO, under the name 'The White City', a World Cultural Heritage site. As well as having a multitude of attractions of its own, Tel Aviv is well-placed as a base for day trips to Jerusalem and Caesarea, while even the Dead Sea and the Galilee are within a two-hour drive of the city. The Tel Aviv-Jaffa city centre is a long, narrow strip beside a very attractive beach, with a waterside promenade reaching from the Marina in North Tel Aviv as far as Jaffa (locally called, and written, Yafo) at the southern edge of the city, with a host of galleries, craft shops and cafes. Ramat Aviv, home of Tel Aviv University and the extensive Eretz Israel Museum, are located on the outskirts of north Tel Aviv on the other side of the river Yarkon. South of the city centre, the large and busy Carmel Market (the city's main open-air food market) runs alongside the atmospheric old Yemenite Quarter (originally home to Jewish refugees from Yemen). Neve Zedek was the first Jewish neighbourhood outside Jaffa (established in 1867) and it is currently benefiting from extensive restoration. Over the years, it has served as a home for numerous artists and now houses various different galleries. Tel Aviv's major sights are its diverse and unusual museums, some focusing on Israel's ancient history, some on landmarks in its 20th-century Zionist history, with very poignant records of the struggles of Jewish refugees, the conflict with the British and with the Arabs, and the first steps of the new state.

Among the most impressive is the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora, while in the old town of Jaffa, there are remnants of the history of the world's oldest port, as well as another important museum.

Tourist Information Municipality of Tel Aviv-Yafo/Association for Tourism Tel Aviv Promenade at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (corner of 2 Geula Street) Tel: (03) 516 6188. Website: www.tel-aviv.gov.il Key Attractions Eretz Israel Museum The name of this internationally important museum means Land of Israel' and traces 3,000 years of culture through artefacts found on this very site, as well as examples from other Israeli locations. Constructed around the extensive archaeological site of Tel Kasile, the museum resembles a park and is housed in a dozen separate pavilions, each of which could be viewed as a museum in its own right dealing with a separate aspect of Israel's material culture and ethnography. Visitors are advised to buy a site map upon arrival at the museum, to help navigate around the different pavilions. 2 Haim Levanon Street, Ramat Aviv Tel: (03) 641 5244. Website: www.eretzmuseum.org.il Tel Aviv Museum of Art This world-class museum has been Israel's principal showcase for modern art since the 1930s and was originally housed in the home of the city's first mayor, Meir Dizengoff. Today, it occupies several buildings and a sculpture garden. In addition to hosting a succession of exhibitions brought from the world's leading modern art museums, the museum maintains a distinguished permanent collection of European and American art of the 20th century, notably impressionist and postimpressionists, including Czanne, Monet, Dali and especially Chagall. The purpose-built main building also serves as a venue for concerts, as well as talks and debate on cultural topics. 27 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard Tel: (03) 607 7020 or 528 7196 (Helena Rubinstein Pavilion). Website: www.tamuseum.com Beth Hatefutsoth (Museum of the Jewish Diaspora) The Museum of the Jewish Diaspora (its Hebrew name is pronounced Bayt Ha-tay-foot-sot) is devoted to Jewish history, migration and cultural diversity since the Jews were expelled by the Romans from Israel (or Judea, as it then was) in AD70 right up to the return to Israel in modern times. On six floors, it displays the astonishing diversity of various Jewish communities, also highlighting the common cultural and religious threads that enabled the Jewish people to retain a common identity throughout. Especially enjoyable are the musical sections, in which you can listen

to Jewish music from Ashkenazi and Sephardi communities and the rousing songs of Zionist pioneer days. Special exhibitions have dealt with the island of Malta, Lithuanian Jewry and the cultural influences on Sigmund Freud. Tel Aviv University Campus, Klausner Street, Ramat Aviv Tel: (03) 745 7800. Website: www.bh.org.il Independence Hall The building is one of Tel Aviv's original structures, formerly the home of Meir Dizengoff, the city's first mayor. On 14 May 1948, it served as the venue for the historic declaration that brought the State of Israel into being. The house has since become a museum recalling that momentous day and the events that led up to it, giving a stirring history of Zionism. Among extraordinary displays are several fascinating historic photographs, showing such moments as the barren sand dunes north of Jaffa being awarded by lot to Jewish settlers. Others record the United Nations in session in November 1947 voting to partition Palestine and the meeting at which David Ben-Gurion announced the creation of the State of Israel. 16 Rothschild Boulevard, south Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 510 6426. Website: www.eretzmuseum.org.il Jaffa Although mentioned several times in the Bible, Jaffa is mainly of 19th-century construction and has little sense of history. It was mainly built after Napoleon's destructive raid in 1799. A small section of Old Jaffa remains, its lanes and stairways cleaned up and restored and the squalid centre replaced by a park. The most enjoyable way to and from Jaffa is on the waterfront walkway from central Tel Aviv. The entrance to the Old Town is marked by the Ottoman Clock Tower, built in 1906 to honour Palestine's Turkish rulers, now a focal point for outdoor socialising before eating at the many nearby restaurants. Close by, the minaret and domes of Mahmoudiyeh Mosque were constructed by the Turks in 1809 using stonework from the Roman ruins of Ashkelon and Caesarea. A few paces uphill, Kedumim Square is Old Jaffa's main plaza, dominated by St Peter's Monastery. In a curious underground structure beneath the square, the Visitors' Center has a tourist information desk and displays a remarkable collection of artefacts from Jaffa's long history. Narrow steps and picturesque lanes zigzag down from the square to the historic, once-busy harbour, now unused. Visitors' Center Kedumim Square, Old Jaffa Tel: (03) 518 4015. Website: www.oldjaffa.co.il Shopping Tel Aviv shopping ranges from many old-fashioned traditional small workshops, such as tailors, to the latest high-tech merchandise to the height of designer fashion. Popular purchases include

clothing, leather goods, souvenirs, artworks and paintings, fine silverware and jewellery, Judaica and antiques, especially on Ben Yehuda, Allenby and Dizengoff Streets. As there is no distinction between tourist and residential areas, shopping venues are generally aimed at locals and are therefore reasonably priced. These range from outdoor markets selling food and clothes to chic European and Israeli designer boutiques. There is something of a struggle going on at present in Tel Aviv between shopping streets and purpose-built malls. An effort is being made to revitalise Dizengoff Street, once the epitome of Israeli style but now sadly neglected in parts. The Dizengoff Centre at Dizengoff Square and the Azrieli Center on the Shalom junction are both styled on the traditional American mall, providing indoor shopping, dining and a cinema complex. The layout of the Dizengoff Centre, which crosses the street in overhead walkways, is confusing. Designer names such as Gucci, Prada and Versace are concentrated on the huge circle of Hamedina Square, while Sheinkin Street (between Allenby and Rothschild) is the trendiest' street, where many fashionable Tel Avivians buy their clothes and just hang out. For more upmarket shopping, the Diamond Exchange, 1 Jabotinsky, Ramat Gan, is one of the world's principal marketplaces for diamonds and precious stones. Visitors seeking a more unusual shopping experience should venture to one of Tel Aviv's daily markets. Carmel Market (see Further Distractions) is located a few minutes' walk from the southern part of the beach. It is an ideal place to soak up the smells and sounds of the city's cultural diversity. Alongside it is the colourful craft market of Nahalat Binyamin. Shuk Hapishpeshim, Jaffa's flea market, sells a fantastic assortment of second-hand items which it is hard to imagine anyone wanting - odd shoes, faulty electrical equipment, broken furniture and damaged jewellery! Yet among this eclectic collection, visitors may spot genuine antiques. Local gifts include hand-blown glass, ceramics, wood carvings and watercolour paintings. Most shops open Sunday to Thursday 0900-1900 (some close 1300 and 1600). Markets are open Sunday to Thursday 0630-1900. Both shops and markets close early on Friday afternoons (often 1400) for Shabbat (the Sabbath), opening again on Sunday. Value Added Tax (VAT), at a current rate of 15.5%, is quoted in the price of all goods and services. Tourists buying most goods at shops listed by the Ministry of Tourism (they display a sticker in the window) may be entitled to claim the tax back, provided the purchases at any one store cost US$100 or more, payment was made in foreign currency, and the items are exported in their entirety.

Amman Mini Guide

Amman, the capital of Jordan, is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. It was little more than a village when the Emirate of Transjordan was created, after the Great Arab Revolt of the WWI. Emir Abdullah bin Al-Hussein made it his capital and modern Amman developed from

there. A few isolated remains of previous settlements can be found amongst the modern buildings. Traces have been found of Stone Age homes dating to 7000BC. In the books of the Old Testament, Amman is mentioned as the capital of the Ammonites, Rabbath-Ammon, where the Israeli King David had Uriah the Hittite, whose wife he coveted, killed. At various times Amman was occupied by the Seleucids, Nabateans, Byzantines and Romans, when it was known as Philadelphia. Like Rome, Amman is built on seven hills, known as jabals, which define the city. Each of these neighbourhoods once had a traffic circle and directions are given in relation to them. First Circle is near downtown and from there the city spreads westward to Eighth Circle. The city is one of the safest and friendliest in the Middle East and although the few must see' sights can easily be covered in a day, it has much more to offer than antiquities. It's worth visiting for the atmosphere of its markets, bazaars and traditional coffee houses and for the superb modern shopping malls and traditional stores. City Statistics

Location: In the north of Jordan. Dialling code: 962. Population: 1,292,000. Time zone: GMT + 2. Electricity: 230 volts AC, 50Hz; European two pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 13C (55F). Average July temperatures: 33C (91F). Annual rainfall: 238mm (8 inches).

Sightseeing
Amman is the Ancient Citadel of Rabbath Ammon. Sitting on top of Jabal Al-Qala'a, it can be seen throughout the city. Excavations are ongoing but so far archaeologists have uncovered remains from the Roman, Byzantine and Islamic periods. Jordan's small archaeological museum is on this site and contains the county's collection of Dead Sea Scrolls. Most of the remains of the Roman city of Philadelphia can be seen from the Citadel and it's a short walk downhill to visit the remains of The Forum, Nymphaeum and Roman Theatre. The Museum of Popular Tradition and the Jordanian Folklore Museum are located on either side of the theatre stage. Also worth visiting are the Royal Automobile Museum, which contains most of the vehicles owned

by the late King Hussein, and the Hejaz Railway Station with its excellent museum and collection of working steam locomotives. Tourist Information Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities

Third Circle Tel: (06) 460 3360. Website: www.tourism.jo Key Attractions
The Citadel This contains the remains of the Temple of Hercules, built between 161BC and 166BC, and the Jordanian Archaeological Museum with its collections of pottery, glass, flint and metal tools, a copy of the Mesha Stele and the Dead Sea Scrolls. Nearby the domed eighth-century BC Al-Qasr or palace is the centrepiece of a once mighty Umayyad city. Ticket office: Mathaf Street, just off King Ali Bin Al-Hussein Street Tel: (06) 463 8795 (Jordanian archaeological Museum) Roman Philadelphia Downhill from the Citadel on Al-Hashami Street the Corinthian colonnade of Philadelphia's original market place, The Forum, leads to a Roman Theatre, built during the reign of Antonius Pius (138161BC). On the left side of the theatre stage a statue of a Bedouin warrior guards the Museum of Popular Tradition with its sixth-century mosaics, collections of antique jewellery and displays of traditional costumes. At the other side the statue of a Circassian in traditional dress stands at the Jordanian Folklore Museum. A Bedouin tent features in a tableau depicting desert life and a recreated living room from an Ammani house depicts the life of city dwellers. Tel: (06) 465 1742 (Museum of Popular Tradition) Tel: (06) 465 1742 (Jordanian Folklore Museum) Hejaz Railway Station The Hejaz Railway Station, which is best visited in a taxi, is like a time-tunnel to a vanished age. Just ask the taxi driver to take you to Mahatta, the Station. Trains leave from here to make the eight- or nine-hour trip to Damascus using rolling stock that was old when Lawrence of Arabia was attempting to blow it up. There's a fine collection of working steam locomotives that are used for corporate and tourist excursions, a remarkable little railway museum and a very friendly station master. Tel: (06) 489 5414. Website: www.jhr.gov.jo Royal Automobile Museum This museum has an amazing collection of motorbikes and cars going back to the time of the Great Arab Revolt and includes the late King Hussein's 1952 Lincoln Capri (that he had when a student in

England) and the 1955 Mercedes 300SL Gullwing' he once raced. Al-Hussein National Park Tel: (06) 541 1392. Shopping The streets of downtown are full of little shops selling souvenirs. King Talal Street is the best place to start. Look for items like the traditional Turkish coffee services, Arab robes and the red-andwhite-chequered headdress or keffiyeh. There are shopping malls like the Mecca Mall (website: www.meccamall.jo) on Mecca Street and the new Airport Mall south of the Seventh Circle on Airport Road. Amman is great for buying gold and jewellery which is sold by weight. Visit the Gold Souk just off King Faisla Street. For specialist items like dried fruits, jewellery and hand-woven bags produced by rural craftswomen head for Wild Jordan, Othman bin Affan Street which is just off Rainbow Street below the First Circle (open 1000 until late). Jordan Design and Trade Centre, opposite the Amman Orchid Hotel in Shmeisani, stocks hand woven rugs and other items made by the women at the Bani Hamida project (open 1000-1800).

Damascus Mini Guide

Damascus, the capital of Syria, lies on the Barada River in the shadow of Mount Qassioun and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains. The original settlement was founded at al-Ghouta oasis, where gardens and orchards were irrigated with the Barada River's melted snow water. Archaeological finds have made it possible to date the oasis' first human settlement to around 4000BC, which means Damascus can claim to be one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. The city's dramatic sprawl of recent decades now incorporates the oasis. Because of the abundance of water, many travelers have described the city as an earthly paradise, particularly after the hardships of travelling through the desert. When Prophet Mohammed stood with his caravan on Mount Qassioun and looked at the city, he refused to enter because he believed that men can only enter paradise once! Damascus has long been an important caravan stop and trading centre, once famous for dried fruit, wine, olive oil soap, wool, linens, and silks. The patterned fabric, known as damask, was named for the silk fabrics woven in Damascus. The old city, classified in 1979 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is vibrant with people, but the atmosphere is serene and laid-back. Spend at least a few days strolling around the labyrinth of alleys and souks of the old city, admiring the tranquility and grandeur of Islamic architecture. City Statistics

Location: Southwestern Syria. Dialling code: 963.

Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from 1 April to 30 September). Electricity: 220V, 50Hz; continental two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 10C (50F). Average July temperatures: 36C (96.8F). Annual rainfall: 200-500mm (8-20 inches).

Sightseeing
At the heart of the old city is one of the oldest and most sacred Islamic monuments, the Great Umayyad Mosque. Nearby the remnants of the Roman Temple of Jupiter are still standing, and the perfume souk leads to the 18th-century Ottoman Azem Palace. The only road to cut through the warren of the old city is Straight Street, which leads through the Christian quarter to the Roman city gate of Bab Sharqi, the Chapel of Ananias and the modern St Paul's chapel. The National Museum, in the new city, is the country's finest archaeological find. Right next to it is the Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye Mosque built by the master architect Sinan, and the tekke (monastery for whirling dervishes), now the Army Museum and a handicraft bazaar. Tourist Information
The city's main tourist office is near the Cham Palace Hotel on Sharia 29 May website: www.syriatourism.org Key Attractions The Great Umayyad Mosque The splendid early 8th-century Umayyad Mosque was built on a site that has been sacred for thousands of years. It has been an Aramaic temple, a Roman temple and a Byzantine cathedral. The shrine, said to contain St John the Baptist's head, is still an important pilgrimage spot, as is the tomb of Salah ad-Din (Saladin) just outside the courtyard. More than 12,000 workmen helped to create the superb golden mosaics that once surrounded the entire courtyard, but only the Paradise Panel is left, representing paradise, or Damascus itself. Tourist entrance at Bab al-Amara, Old City The Old City Five kilometres (3 miles) of walls surround the well-preserved medieval city of Damascus, with the Great Umayyad Mosque (see above) at its heart. It is a place for strolling through the labyrinthine alleys and busy souks, admiring the fine palaces, madrasas (Quranic schools), caravanserais and mosques on the way, or whiling time away in one of the many cafs. The Christian Quarter and Straight Street Straight Street, the Via Recta, has been the main east-west thoroughfare since Roman/Hellenistic

times. Just off the street are the grand Damascene houses of the Christian Quarter, now often turned into bars and restaurants. At the end is the Roman gate of Bab Sharqi, and nearby the underground Chapel of St Ananias, where it is believed that Ananias sheltered St Paul after his blinding conversion. St Paul's Chapel marks the spot where St Paul was lowered over the city walls to escape his Roman persecutors. The National Museum The museum has many treasures from Syria's amazing archaeological sites. Highlights include the sculpture and jewellery from Palmyra, the second-century interior of the Dura Europos synagogue, the world's first alphabet on the Ugarit tablets and the eerie priest statues of Mari. Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatly Azem Palace One of the most beautiful palaces of the old city, the 18th-century palace of the Ottoman governor Assad Pasha al-Azem has several rooms illustrating traditional crafts and culture. Souk al-Bazuriye Shopping For crafts visit the Tekkiye Suleymaniyye, the Hamidiyye Souk and the streets around the Umayyad Mosque. The eastern end of Straight Street towards Bab Sharqi has several antiques and carpet dealers. The Souk al-Bazuriye is good for spices and sweetmeats. Shopping hours vary but are mostly from 0930-1900, with some shops closing from 1330-1600, particularly in summer. The souks are closed on Friday, except for the Christian Quarter where they close on Sunday.

Dubai Mini Guide

Dubai is no longer looking over its shoulder at The West'; it is far too busy showing what an Arabic emirate can do on its own with what many observers are increasingly viewing as an insight into the future of cities the world over. It is difficult to believe today that less than a century ago Dubai was so much different. Even as Europe embarked on the mass industrial destruction of WWI, Dubai still had no running water, no real roads and the main mode of transport was the camel. Dubai first grew as a hub on the ancient trading route between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley and, by the 19th century, a small fishing village had taken root at the mouth of Dubai Creek. The village was inhabited by the Bani Yas tribe, who were led by the Maktoum family, the dynasty that still presides over Dubai today. The city's remarkable success story really began in the 1960s. Oil was struck in 1966 and Dubai has

never looked back. Since the 1960s, the population has grown to almost 1.5 million and now an ever-growing number of hotels welcome in the temporary expat workers and tourists. Indeed, only around a quarter of the emirate's population are actually ethnically Emirati in a population mixture that has to be one of the world's most cosmopolitan. This diversity discourages any real ethnic tensions and while conflict might rage further north in Iraq, Dubai so far has been trouble free. Dubai's evolution has been dramatic, with sweeping skyscrapers and gleaming office blocks rising up everywhere. The rulers of Dubai have a penchant for grand projects - one year the world's tallest tower (Burj Arab), the next a string of offshore manmade islands (the three Palms and the World) and now Dubailand, a massive project that will bring over 45 major projects to a massive leisure oasis in the desert. Dubai seems to know no end to its ambition, nor does it have any inhibitions, with more grandiose plans slated, such as Dubai Mall (the world's largest mall) and the colossal new airport at Jebel Ali, which will dwarf the existing one, already the Middle East's busiest. Even with regional instability in recent years tourism (now responsible for 30% of the emirate's GDP) remains remarkably resilient in this tolerant and stable part of the Arab world with more and more tourists flocking to Dubai every year. This is unsurprising really, considering the idyllic climate for much of the year, with constant sunshine and only an average of five days of rainfall annually. During summer, however, the heat is extreme, making trips away from air-conditioned vehicles and buildings unbearable. The future prospects of the emirate's tourist industry and its economic situation as a whole may ultimately be governed by developments in the rest of the Middle East, but for now Dubai is a city on the rise and rise.

City Statistics
Location: Southern shore of the Arabian Gulf, northeastern United Arab Emirates. Dialling code: 971. Population: 1,400,000. Time zone: GMT + 4. Electricity: 220 or 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 24C (75F). Average July temperatures: 41C (106F). Annual rainfall: 300mm (11.8 inches).

Sightseeing

Dubai has many of the areas of interest, such as Deira and Jumeirah Beach, situated far apart. Sightseeing within the city centre is split mainly between the Deira and Bur Dubai flanks of Dubai Creek. Deira, on the right bank of the waterway, is the business and commercial heart of the city and is also home to the best shopping. Highlights include the myriad souks, including the Spice Souk, Deira Old Souk and Dubai Covered Souk. Deira is also the most atmospheric part of Dubai for a spot of aimless wandering, with a real sense of manic activity and rambling streets that are in sharp contrast to the order and calm of much of the city. Meanwhile, historic Bur Dubai has less of a bustling atmosphere and is home to a number of tourist attractions, including the Dubai Museum, Grand Mosque and Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum's House. Dubai Creek itself is also something of an attraction, whether visitors choose to take the traditional dhow cruises along its length or just to stroll along its banks on the promenade on the Bur Dubai side. From here, there are good views back towards the ultra-modern skyline on the other flank of the Creek. Breaking away, west from the mouth of Dubai Creek, is Jumeirah Beach, not really one beach as such but rather a sweeping strip of sand fringed by the bath temperature waters of the Arabian Gulf. Much of the beach these days is officially the private preserve of the ever increasing string of beach-side luxury hotels, although there is little to stop people wandering where they want to, once on the sand. Many of Dubai's best hotels are located on or nearby Jumeirah Beach, including the unmistakable hulk of the Burj al Arab (or Arab Tower'), as well as leisure facilities like Wild Wadi Water Park and the more traditional attraction of Jumeirah Mosque, which is regarded by both locals and tourists alike as the most charming mosque in Dubai. The new Madinat Jumeirah development has become the focus of Jumeirah's eating and drinking scene. One new attraction that visitors can see clearly taking shape off the coast are the Palm Islands, the three islands that are set to become the new focus of the city when they are completed, and the World archipelago. Dubai is changing at a rapid rate - Ski Dubai, the Middle East's first indoor ski resort, opened in 2005 and Burj Dubai, set to be the world's tallest tower, is due for completion in September 2009. Then there is Dubailand, a massive development in the desert that the emirate's movers and shakers aim to turn into the city's number one tourist attraction. Its completion date (or rather dates given the sheer scale of the project) are fluid to say the least. Away from the city itself, further adventures await in the deserts and mountains, with wadi bashing and dune bashing jeep safaris in the mountains and deserts of Dubai both becoming increasingly popular. Further excursions can be made into the neighbouring emirates and Oman. Tourist Information

Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DTCM) Welcome Bureau

Beni Yas Square, Deira Tel: (04) 228 5000. Website: www.dubaitourism.co.ae Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-2100, Fri 1500-2100. Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Dubai. Key Attractions Bastakiya In the days before electricity and air conditioning, Dubai Creek used to be lined by a mass of wind towers that kept the local houses cool. The Bastakiya district is a step back in time, laden as it is with traditional courtyard houses, bedecked with these wind towers. The Bastakiya area is currently undergoing renovation, with improved visitor facilities planned for its transformation into a 'tourist village'. It now boasts a modest museum, a sprinkling of cafes and a slew of small art galleries, making its shady street ideal for wandering around and exploring. East of Dubai Souk on Al-Fahidi Street Palm Islands and the World The three Palm islands, said to be visible from space, form the largest manmade islands in the world. The Palm Jumeirah, whose first residents moved in during 2007, boasts a number of hotels as well as private residences. The Palm Jebel Ali is slated to have more leisure facilities, including an aquatic theme park, when it opens in 2008/9. The third of the islands, Palm Deira, will be more geared towards residential use with over 7,000 villas, and will be the largest of the trio when it opens in 2009/10. New bridges will connect the islands to the mainland in one of the largest construction projects ever undertaken by man. The three islands are going to be accompanied by The World', all very Dubai, an ambitious attempt to recreate the shape of the world on 300 offshore islands, slated to open in 2009/10. Watching these outlandish projects take shape has become one of Dubai's main attractions, with the view perhaps best from the upper floors of Burj al Arab hotel and its Al Muntaha restaurant (see Restaurants). Tel: (04) 390 3333. Website: www.thepalm.co.ae or www.theworld.ae Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum's House Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum's House is one of the oldest houses in the city, as well as one of the best examples of traditional architecture. Built from sandstone, in 1896, the house offers sweeping views out towards the sea - although the view has been slightly obscured by more modern development. The one-time ruler of Dubai used the house to monitor trade in and out of the country. The house was reopened as a museum in 1986; it also contains an exhibition illuminating Dubai's development from the 1940s to the late 1960s. Near Al-Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road

Tel: (04) 393 7139. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-2030, Fri 1530-2130. Admission charge. Jumeirah Mosque The Jumeirah Mosque is the most photographed building in the city and an impressive example of modern Islamic architecture. Built along medieval Fatimid lines, entirely of stone, the mosque and its two minarets are unmistakable. It is particularly attractive at night, when subtle lighting increases its dramatic effect. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Dubai, although they can enter this one if on an organised tour. Visitors should call the tourist office to check if these are available. Al-Jumeirah Road Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; access to non-Muslims through organised tours only. Free admission. Grand Mosque The Grand Mosque was only rebuilt in 1998 and boasts the city's tallest minaret, at 70m (231ft). Located on the Bur Dubai side of the creek, near the Ruler's Court, the Grand Mosque consists of nine large domes and 45 smaller ones. This huge religious edifice can house up to 1,200 worshippers. Non-Muslims cannot enter but the mosque is worth visiting for its drama, scale and the special place it holds in the hearts of many locals. Ali ibin Ali Talib Street Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; entrance to non-Muslims is forbidden. Souks (markets) The souks, or traditional markets, are one of Dubai's greatest attractions. They are located on both sides of the creek, with the most impressive on the Deira side. The highlight is the colourful Spice Market, which abounds with exotic aromas and bustles with locals seeking bargains. Wandering around the atmospheric souks is a good way for visitors to get in touch with how life was in Dubai, before oil was discovered. Deira Covered Souk, Al-Sabkha Road Deira Old Souk or Spice Souk, 67 Street Deira Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street Perfume Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street Electronics Souk, Al-Sabkha Road and Al-Maktoum Hospital Road Dubai Souk, Bur Dubai Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0700-1200 and 1700-1900, Fri 1700-1900. Free admission. Children's City Housed in Dubai Creekside Park, Children's City is a big hit with both local and international youngsters. The 7,700-sq-m (82,882-sq-ft) development takes young minds on a journey through

the human body, science and space, with the help of different zones'. With plenty of hands-on action to keep even the most demanding children occupied, this is no dull old museum. All exhibits are in English as well as Arabic. Creekside Park Tel: (04) 334 0808. Website: www.childrencity.ae Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-2030, Fri 1500-2030. Admission charge. Dubai Museum The building that houses the Dubai Museum, Al-Fahidi Fort, is an attraction in itself. The historic fort, dating back as far as 1799, was converted into a museum in 1970. The exhibits range from old weapons and pearl-diving outfits to an impressive range of military artefacts. Some of the most fascinating exhibits are those recovered from the 3,000- to 4,000-year-old graves at Al-Ghusais, while perhaps the most striking is the huge wooden sailing craft that is beached outside. Al-Fahidi Road Tel: (04) 353 1862. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0830-2030, Fri 1430-2030. Admission charge. Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef At the Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, it is possible to delve into the opulent world of the moneyed men of Dubai. The late ruler of Dubai, Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, used this building as his home from home' but it is now open to the public. The building dates back to 1955 and its most impressive feature are the majlis gardens, which include a reproduction of a traditional Arab irrigation system. 17 Street, off Al-Jumeirah Road Tel: (04) 394 6343. Opening hours: Daily 0730-1430 and 1630-2100. Admission charge. Heritage Village The Heritage Village is an attempt to weave in some local colour among Dubai's rapidly developing 21st-century skyline. The emphasis is on recreating the Bedouin way of life, with locals dressed in traditional garb, displays of traditional handicrafts, song and dance. Local handicrafts are also available for purchase. There is also a small section for children, with a smattering of things to keep young visitor's occupied. Near Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road Tel: (04) 393 7151. Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-2200, Fri 0800-1100 and 1600-2200. Free admission.

Shopping Dubai is regarded as the Shopping Capital of the Middle East' and increasingly dedicated fans of retail are regarding the emirate as a top-class shopping destination. It is largely divided into two main types - the old souks in Deira and Dubai Souk in Bur Dubai, and the glossy new shopping malls around Beniyas Square, Al-Rigga and Al-Hiyafa Road. New shops and malls cater for any shopping desire. The largest mall in the Middle East, or perhaps even outside North America, is the gargantuan Mall of the Emirates. The airport is also a shopping paradise, with excellent duty-free facilities. What is slated to be the largest mall in the world (Dubai just had to) is scheduled to open in 2008/9 in the form of the simply named Dubai Mall. The souks (see Key Attractions) offer an atmospheric shopping experience with sights, sounds and aromas that hint of yesteryear. The Spice Souk, Al-Sabkha Road, is more of a tourist attraction, while the buzzing Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street, offers some great deals on gold necklaces, rings, bangles, earrings and brooches, with gold prices among the lowest in the world. The gold souks are strictly regulated, so there is little chance of customers being ripped off in terms of quality, although prices do vary greatly and bargaining is essential. The Fish Souk in Deira is more of a tourist attraction, as visitors are unlikely to want to take fresh fish home with them. Early in the morning and late at night, local fishermen unload mountains of fresh fish, which they bargain and haggle over. The Electronics Souk, near Beniyas Square, might sound a slightly incongruous idea but this is Dubai, which means that, with shopping, anything goes. Bargaining is the norm in all of the souks, which are generally open daily, 0700-1200 and 1700-1900 (closed Friday morning). The best-value items at the large shopping malls are mainly electrical goods and designer clothing, although interesting local products include carpets, Bedouin jewellery and Arabian souvenirs. The Dubai Shopping Festival, held from January to February, and Dubai Summer Surprises, held in July and August, are two massive attractions, with all the big stores and almost every shop in Dubai slashing prices in a retail orgy. Other festivals and special promotions run throughout the year, which further enhance Dubai's myriad retail opportunities. Dubai's shops are open 0800-1300 and 1630-2000/2100. Many shops are closed on Friday. Larger malls are open 1000-2200. Shops, malls and souks are all closed on Friday mornings. There is no sales tax in Dubai and the airport is renowned for having one of the finest duty-free opportunities in the world. This is open to both arriving and departing passengers.

San Francisco Mini Guide

There are many reasons why San Francisco continuously rates as one of the most liveable cities in the USA.For starters, its residents retain a relationship between materialism and money on the one hand and cutting-edge thought and progressive politics on the other. This dualism is played out in all facets of society: from eating, drinking and socialising, to art and design, music and culture, landscape and architecture. The reward for unleashing this creative and freethinking beast on everyday activity is a dynamic lifestyle on par with New York and streets ahead of most other cities in the country. San Francisco is fortuitously positioned between the ocean and Sierra Nevada mountains to the east and west and redwood forests and the California desert to the north and south. On its doorstep, the Bay, which fits neatly between the Golden Gate Bridge and the Bay Bridge, is not only tantalisingly beautiful, it's home to 14 small islands, including Alcatraz. Not far away, the glorious vineyards of the Napa and Sonoma wine regions ensure weekend escapes are part of the San Francisco experience. The city has a mild year-round climate but it should not be confused with hot and sunny Southern California. When the fog and cold sets in, as it often does, locals head indoors, to jazz venues, cosy restaurants, wine bars and old-school breweries to talk life, love, politics and people. Though steadfast in its bright future, the city's past is always remembered with a collective nod. Since its early days as Yerba Buena (Good Herb), a Spanish fishing village, it has seen peace and happiness, and depression and misery in equal parts. Both have helped shape the city's personality. The Gold Rush of 1849 inspired a migration from the west but also from the east - the humble beginnings of Chinatown and Japantown. In 1906, a devastating earthquake hit. From its ashes, development saw horse-drawn streetcars replaced with cable cars. In 1937 the completed Golden Gate Bridge provided a postcard-perfect city icon. In the 1950s, the bohemian Beat movement fostered the city's love of the literature. The counter culture flowered in the Haight Ashbury neighbourhood during the 1967 Summer of Love and the gay community fought for and found a home in Castro and Polk Street.

The city saw rapid growth in dotcom industries and has now recovered from downturns. Today it is the financial capital of the West Coast. Tolerance for all ways of life is perhaps what buoys the city most today, and what inevitably makes it an unforgettable destination for people from all walks of life.

City Statistics
Location: California, USA. Dialling code: 1. Population: 808, 844 (city); 7,217,424 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November). Electricity: 110 volts, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 11C (51F). Average July temperatures: 16C (60F). Annual rainfall: 559mm (22 inches).

Sightseeing
Regularly voted best city in the USA in national polls, San Francisco is a visual feast that offers something for every eye. The many hilltops and landmarks, such as the 55m(180ft-) high Coit Tower, on Telegraph Hill, provide grand vistas of the Bay and the city. Works of art are on display in myriad museums. For the more contemporary tastes, the high-tech offerings of Yerba Buena Centre for the Arts, and the AT&T Park, home of baseball's San Francisco Giants, are yet another side to the city. But it is where mankind and nature meets that this implausibly diverse city comes into its own. A visit to the Golden Gate Bridge, which used enough wire to go around the earth several times over and was hailed as impossible to build, is a must. Golden Gate Park covers 412 hectares (1,017 acres) and is the one of the largest manmade parks in the world, thanks to Scotsman John McLaren, the extraordinary gardener who tamed the sands of San Francisco and created the magnificent park. Then there is Alcatraz, the stuff of legend, Grant Street, the city's oldest, running the

length of Chinatown, Haight-Ashbury, which rekindles memories of Flower Power and the Beat Generation, and Fisherman's Wharf, at the edge of the Bay, offering hundreds of resident sea lions, cheap souvenirs and, always, something to eat. At the other end of The Embarcadero the landmark Ferry Building has become a foodie haven where visitors get an eyeful as well as a belly-full. Tourist Information San Francisco Visitor Information Centre 900 Market Street Tel: (415) 391 2000. Website: www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat-Sun 0900-1500. Passes The San Francisco CityPass (website: www.citypass.com) allows admission to five attractions (the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Exploratorium or Asian Art Museum, Blue & Gold Fleet Bay Cruise, De Young/Legion of Honor and Aquarium of the Bay) and also includes a seven-day Muni & Cable Car Passport (see Getting Around). It is valid for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance. Key Attractions Golden Gate Bridge The beautiful Golden Gate Bridge, which connects San Francisco to Marin County, is not gold, of course, but a vivid rusty orange that stands out even through the frequent thick fogs. Spanning 2.7km (1.7 miles), the bridge is one of the wonders of the modern world and one of five bridges that span the Bay. The best views of the Golden Gate Bridge are from Fort Point in the Presidio (Long Avenue and Marine Drive) and Visa Point, on the Marin side at the north end of the bridge. A walk or, at least, a drive across the bridge is essential (walking takes approximately half an hour and walkers should dress warmly). The two pivotal cables contain enough steel wire to encircle the equator three times, while the concrete alone would provide enough material for a pavement from San Francisco to New York. Highway 101 (Lincoln Boulevard) Tel: (415) 921 5858. Website: www.goldengatebridge.org Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (roadway and bicycle access); daily 0500-2100 (pedestrian sidewalk).

Free admission; southbound-only toll for cars. Golden Gate Park The 412 hectares (1,017 acres) of Golden Gate Park encompass meadows, lakes, myriad gardens, an open-air music concourse, a children's playground and vintage carousel, a buffalo paddock and the tallest artificial waterfall in the West. The park fronts Ocean Beach, which affords spectacular sunset views. Some 10,000 plant species flourish in the San Francisco Botanical Garden, while the must-see Japanese Tea Garden is an absolute haven. The Conservatory of Flowers is a living museum of rare and tropical plants. Founded in 1895, the de Young Museum has moved twice due to earthquakes, but but its feet are now firmly planted at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (FAMSF), which includes the de Young Museum and the Legion of Honor. The new de Young, rebuilt in 2005 and largely supported with private money, holds many surprises, not least the textured copper facade and spiralling tower rising like a beacon in Golden Gate Park. Galleries flow from one to the next, each an experience that touches the senses. Gaze at fifth-century Peruvian artefacts and prized Maori sculptures from New Zealand, then wander through the Rockefeller Collection of American Paintings to dangling collages of modern art. Tel: (415) 831 2700. Website: www.parks.sfgov.org de Young Museum 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive Tel: (415) 750 3600. Website: www.famsf.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1715, Fri 0930-2045. Admission charge. Japanese Tea Garden Seven Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive Tel: (415) 752 4227. Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (garden); daily 0900-1700 (tea house). Admission charge. San Francisco Botanical Garden Ninth Avenue at Lincoln Way Tel: (415) 661 1316.

Website: www.sfbotanicalgarden.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1630, Sat-Sun 1000-1700. Free guided walks daily at 1330. Free admission, donations welcome. Conservatory of Flowers 501 Stanyan Street Tel: (415) 666 7001. Website: www.conservatoryofflowers.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1630. Free guided walks daily at 1330. Admission charge. Presidio Destined to become a self-sufficient national park in its own right, the land and buildings of Presidio surround the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge. It was formerly one of the oldest military installations in the country and now houses a forest, a Civil War brick fortress and a museum. Visitor Centre (temporary) Presidio Officers' Club, Building 50, Moraga Street Tel: (415) 561 4323. Website: www.nps.gov/prsf/home.htm Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (visitor centre). Free admission. Alcatraz Looming menacingly in the Bay, near Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz (known simply as The Rock') was the site of the USA's toughest maximum-security prison, from 1934 until 1963. Al Capone lodged there, as did birdman Robert Stroud, although his infamy is based more on Hollywood legend than fact - he never did keep birds here. Alcatraz, which imprisoned convicts as much with the Bay estuary's lethal currents as with manmade bars, opened to a curious public in 1973. Now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, its on-island activities include trail walks, audio tours narrated by former inmates and guards and ranger-led tours. The frustration of being able to witness the natural beauty and bright lights of the Bay communities from just a mile away, which must have been felt by many an inmate, is palpable. Alcatraz Island was also the site of the first lighthouse built on the Pacific Coast. Visitors are advised to book early and wear warm clothes.

Alcatraz Island (ferries depart from Pier 33) Tel: (415) 705 5555 or 1 800 426 8687 (advance tickets). Website: www.nps.gov/alcatraz or www.alcatrazcruises.com (bookings) Opening hours: Departures daily 0900-1830 (summer), 0930-1630 (all other seasons). Night tours also available. Admission charge includes audio cassette rental. Fisherman's Wharf In the daytime, visitors throng the sidewalks and piers of Fisherman's Wharf - a centre for tacky souvenirs, Bay-view restaurants, shops, attractions and the spectacle of some 500 resident sea lions crowded onto pontoons to sunbathe. The sea lions appeared soon after the 1989 earthquake and have made this area home, leaving only briefly during the spring to breed in the Channel Islands. But in the early hours of the morning, from dawn until 0900, the ambitious visitor can get quite another view - that of a busy fish distribution centre sending out seafood both locally and further afield. Dylan Thomas once waxed lyrical to his wife, Caitlin, about the quality of the lobsters, clams and crabs here and small wonder - oysters, chowder, crab and shrimp cocktail are sold in disposable cartons on the wharf, for eating while strolling. Pier 39 (website: www.pier39.com), where Beach Street meets The Embarcadero, is actually one of 29 curiously numbered piers on the waterfront and is now the city's biggest attraction. Not only is it home to the sea lions but also many other attractions, such as the Aquarium of the Bay, where moving sidewalks are surrounded on three sides by water. Sightseeing boats leave from Pier 39 and the neighbouring Pier 41. The Cannery houses 30 speciality shops, while Ghirardelli Square, a former chocolate factory turned chic shopping centre, close by at the west end of Fisherman's Wharf, can also be approached from the wharf. Hyde Street Pier, which displays historic ships (including the Eureka, an 1890 paddle wheeler, and the schooner CA Thayer) and the art deco Maritime Museum, show how life in the city a century ago was much more entwined with the marine industry. The Embarcadero Tel: (415 ) 674 7503. Website: www.fishermanswharf.org Aquarium of the Bay Pier 39 Tel: (415) 623 5300 or 1 888 732 3483. Website: www.aquariumofthebay.com

Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000 (summer); Mon-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri-Sun 1000-1900 (winter). Admission charge. The Ferry Building Standing regally on the Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street, the iconic Ferry Building has long been a San Francisco landmark. It opened in 1898 as the transportation hub for ferry commuters and train travellers. At its peak it saw as many as 50,000 ferry commuters a day. However, in the 1930s, when commuters preferred vehicular routes, few people darkened its door. In the 1950s the interior was converted into unsightly office space and was further obscured by the double-deck Embarcadero Freeway, which ran past the front entry. Though ferry commuters returned in the 1970s it wasn't until the freeway was eventually damaged by earthquake in 1989, then torn down in 1991, that the Ferry Building's potential was harnessed. Today the repeating interior arches and overhead skylights in the grandiose central nave provide a home for purveyors of the finest cuisine from the Bay Area and around the world. A simple stroll can uncover epicurean delights such as truffles and caviar, organic fruit and vegetables, Italian delicatessens, artisan cheeses, fresh local fish, patisseries, a bakery, wine bar and tea shop, coffee shops and restaurants. The Book Passage bookstore hosts author events, seminars and legendary Mystery Writers' & Travel Writers' conferences. A farmers' market is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays around the main building with small, local outfitters selling seasonal and organically grown produce. A Thursday night market is open during summer only. Ferry Building Marketplace One Ferry Building, The Embarcadero Tel: (415) 693 0996. Website: www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com Cable Cars One of San Francisco's principal attractions is its network of century-old cable cars, America's only mobile National Historic Landmark. The system was opened in 1873, when Andrew Hallidie guided the first car down Clay Street, near Portsmouth Square, to replace horse-drawn streetcars. It was refurbished in the 1980s. The ride and the views can best be enjoyed standing on one of the outside platforms but travellers should hold on tight and watch out for traffic. The cars operate along three routes. The Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines, beginning at Powell Street and Market Street, run roughly north-south between Fisherman's Wharf and Union Square. The California Street line

runs east-west from California Street and Market Street, near the Embarcadero to Van Ness Avenue. The cars are turned by hand on turntables at the end of the line - all part of the experience. A visit to the Cable Car Museum completes the experience. Here, located in the city's only remaining cable car barn and powerhouse, visitors can view the cable-winding machinery as it reels 17km (11 miles) of steel at a steady pace of 15km (9.5 miles) per hour. The mechanism is much more interesting than you might think and a video, historical memorabilia and gift shop make the museum a compelling stop. Powell Street, Market Street and California Street Tel: 311, within San Francisco or (415) 701 2311. Website: www.sfcablecar.com or www.sfmta.com Operating hours: Mon-Fri 0600-0130. Admission charge. Cable Car Museum 1201 Mason Street, at Washington Street, Nob Hill Tel: (415) 474 1887. Website: www.cablecarmuseum.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Apr-Sep); daily 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar). Free admission. Cartoon Art Museum The Cartoon Art Museum, the only one of its kind on the West Coast, displays rotating exhibitions of art, from underground cartoons to popular comic books and animation. An enormous permanent collection and a CD-Rom gallery explore every facet of cartoon art. Saturday afternoon cartooning classes are offered regularly. 655 Mission Street, South of Market Tel: (415) 227 8666. Website: www.cartoonart.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700. Admission charge. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, opened in 1995, to great acclaim. Its permanent collection is particularly strong in American 20th-century sculpture, painting, photography (including works by Andy Warhol, Jackson Pollock, and Georgia O'Keeffe) and multimedia installations.

151 Third Street, South of Market Tel: (415) 357 4000. Website: www.sfmoma.org Opening hours: Fri-Tues 1100-1745, Thurs 1100-2045 (first Mon in Sep to last Mon in May); Fri-Tues 1000-1745, Thurs 1000-2045 (last Mon in May to first Mon in Sep). Admission charge. Contemporary Jewish Museum Under the creative direction of architect Daniel Libeskind, The Contemporary Jewish Museum reopened in June 2008 in the landmark 1907 Jessie Street Power Substation, recognised by the 3,000 blue steel panels that clad the exterior. With a no permanent exhibitions' policy, the museum hopes to earn kudos as a dynamic and ever-changing' art hub representing the highest level of artistic achievement. 736 Mission Street (between Third and Fourth Streets) Tel: (415) 655 7800. Website: www.thecjm.org Opening hours: Fri-Tues 1100-1730, Thurs 1300-2030. Admission charge. Shopping San Francisco has many of the big names in shopping (Saks, Macy's, Neiman Marcus and Tiffany's) mostly clustered around Union Square, the centre of downtown spending. But it is the dozens of galleries and bookshops within an 800m (half-mile) radius of the square that provide the stimulus and respite to keep going. Unlike many other US cities, San Francisco has no specific indoor malls, opting instead for distinct shopping districts. You'll find the more interesting items further afield. A walk through Chinatown can pay dividends, as discounted imported jewellery, clothing and objets d'art appear down Grant Avenue, every few yards. Where else could one find pieces of priceless 17thcentury vases, which were smashed during the Cultural Revolution, converted into US$10 jewellery boxes? Or watch workers seal your fate at Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Co., 56 Ross Alley, a small fortune-cookie-making factory? For a counter-culture neighbourhood, The Haight has gone somewhat commercial. But past the GAP, at the Haight-Ashbury intersection, you can find folk art, music, and vintage clothing shops. There is a more intellectual vibe in North Beach where Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti's City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Avenue, stays open until midnight. Here, you'll also find made-in-San Francisco boutique designer shops. Al from Al's Attire in Grant Street

has a penchant for elaborate shirts and coats made from his own coveted collection of vintage material. Currently in vogue, Ghirardelli Square, a former chocolate factory located at 900 North Point Street, and Cow Hollow, to the north of the exclusive Pacific Heights, are both off the beaten track but worth making the effort. Tiny Hayes Valley, west of the Civic Centre, has a stretch of funky local art galleries and stylish clothing boutiques, for oneof-a-kind items, plus an astonishing array of top-notch restaurants and hip nightspots. Pacific Heights, particularly along Fillmore Street and Sacramento Street, has a similar yet slightly more upscale feel, with many modern houseware and high-end gift shops. Specialist shops offer something for every taste, from Chocolate Heaven, Pier 39, with chocolates from around the world, and Sanrio, Stockton Street and Market Street, devoted entirely to Hello Kitty and friends, to Stormy Leather, Howard Street, SoMa, a fetish boutique owned and run by women, for the past 20 years. For souvenirs of the edible variety, don't neglect The Ferry Building, on Embarcadero at Market Street (see Key Attractions). Discount stores, like Marshall's on Market Street, do exist. Designer names like Burberry, Calvin Klein and Wilkes Bashford vie for attention with Chanel and Armani in Union Square, the heartbeat of the high-end shopping district flanked by the Financial District on one side and the Theatre District on another. Just two blocks away at the Westfield San Francisco Shopping Centre on Market Street, Nordstrom occupies the top five floors of this nine-level collection of 90 merchants connected by spiral escalators. San Francisco adds an 8.5% non-refundable sales tax on every item. Opening hours vary widely - many shops are open well into the evening and most are open at least some hours on Sunday.

Washington, DC Mini Guide

It is hard to believe, but the land on which Washington, DC's elegant National Mall and its stately buildings stand was once a marshy swamp. George Washington created this special district as a federal power hub to avoid the problem of establishing the capital city in any one state. Its strategic location, with accessibility to the sea via the Potomac River and between

the South and the North, made it an attractive site. Originally designed by the French architect Pierre L'Enfant in 1791, Washington is a city of green parks, wide tree-lined streets and very few skyscrapers, all of which give it a European air. It is very much a purpose-built capital, a city of grand buildings (such as the White House and the US Capitol) and impressive monuments (the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial, to name but two). Congress and the second president, John Adams, moved to Washington, DC in 1800, but it was a further six decades before it began to look like a capital city. In the interim period, foreign ambassadors considered it a hardship posting. Now, this political centre stage, capital of the most powerful nation in the world, is the place to be. Washington, DC is always in the international spotlight. Occasionally this attention is not welcome, for example, the world's largest concentration of spies lurks around the city. Washington, DC has also had its share of political scandal, such as the Watergate affair, Mayor Marion Barry's imprisonment for drug offences, the Monica Lewinsky affair, the painful struggle of the 2000 presidential elections and most recently, indictments in the Bush administration for the CIA leak in 2005. The most tragic of events in the nation's capital occurred on 11 September 2001, when a hijacked plane crashed into the Pentagon. Since that time, barricades, blocked-off streets, police and security checks have given parts of the city a different facade. Washington, DC (Washington to visitors and DC or the District to locals) is divided into four quadrants - northwest (NW), northeast (NE), southeast (SE) and southwest (SW). It is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own diverse culture. Capitol Hill, beyond the Capitol, is a blend of government buildings, townhouses and speciality shops and restaurants. Foggy Bottom, also home to several government buildings, is now a charming, quiet neighbourhood. Perhaps the most famous is Georgetown, a historic district with elegant 18th- and 19th-century townhouses, home to many influential residents, as well as chic restaurants and shops. One of the most colourful neighbourhoods is Adams Morgan, with an eclectic mix of international restaurants, sidewalk cafs, ethnic stores and late-night entertainment. After the federal government, tourism is the capital's primary industry. Over 15 million tourists explore the city each year, preferring to see the sights during autumn, spring and summer rather than in winter when it can be bitterly cold and wet.

They are drawn by the wealth of impressive monuments and museums, many of which have free entry. Other important industries located here include trade associations, law, higher education and publishing. The city is also the headquarters for the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund. Though wealthy on the surface, the city has had problems with a high crime rate, plus high unemployment, illiteracy and drug abuse. In the last few years, it has cleaned up its act. The crime rate has gone down and the city has been revitalised. It is now chic to live in DC, where power and politics are a heady mix. So much American history is crammed into it. Add to that its wealth of monuments, public buildings, museums and memorials to past heroes and visitors cannot fail to be impressed.

City Statistics
Location: District of Columbia midway along the Atlantic seaboard, 145km (90 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean, USA. Dialling code: 1. Population: 553,500 (city); 5.8 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November). Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 2C (37F). Average July temperatures: 25C (78F). Annual rainfall: 884mm (34.8 inches).

Sightseeing
The grand formal vista of the National Mall contains many of Washington, DC's most important monuments and institutions. The Mall is particularly striking during the spring blossoming of the Japanese cherry trees and in the winter with the Christmas trees and lights.

Most dramatic are monuments like the Jefferson Memorial, the Washington Monument and the Capitol that seem to glow against the night skies. The White House is another must-see for tourists. Smart townhouses, cobblestone streets, cafs, shops and lovely riverside walks, plus a lively nightlife, make the elegant neighbourhood of Georgetown highly attractive. Washington's elite occupies many of the homes. Across town, Chinatown, with its colourful Friendship Arch, is the centre for oriental speciality shops and restaurants. A favoured recreation ground for city dwellers is Rock Creek Park in the northwest of the city. The creek itself passes through the heart of the park, which also has bicycle, bridle and jogging paths. Since 11 September 2001, the Pentagon, the country's heart of national and international security, is no longer open for public tours, but if it is intrigue you seek, visit the International Spy Museum. It chronicles the history and schemes of spies and espionage. Tourist Information Tourist Information Washington, DC Convention and Tourism Corporation

901 Seventh Street, NW, Suite 4001 Tel: (202) 789 7000. Website: www.washington.org Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available. Key Attractions White House With the exception of George Washington, the White House, home to the first family, has been home to every US president and his family. Tours of the most famous building in DC are only available with passes from congressman or, for foreign visitors, from their respective embassies. Very little of the building is on display but most enjoy the opportunity to enter the powerhouse of the USA. Information on the architecture, first families, social events and more can be obtained from the White House Visitor Information Center (daily 0730-1600) on the southeast corner of 15th and E Streets. The centre also features a 30-minute video and White House exhibits including first

families and furnishings and is a high spot on any visit to Washington, DC. 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Tel: (202) 456 2200/7041. Website: www.whitehouse.gov/history/tours Opening hours: 20 to 90-minute tours available Tues-Sat 0730-1230. (Occasionally closed at short notice for official events.) Free admission. (White House visitors must request passes from their Congressmen (US citizens) or respective embassy (overseas visitors) no less than one month or more than six months in advance.) White House Visitor Information Center US Department of Commerce Building, 1450 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Tel: (202) 208 1631. Website: www.nps.gov/whho Opening hours: Daily 0730-1600. Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) A fascinating place to visit when in the city is the Federal Bureau of Investigation, the headquarters of the famous US law enforcement agency, the FBI. A one-hour guided tour includes crime laboratories where scientific examinations take place, historic exhibits of famous cases and a firearms demonstration by a special agent. J Edgar Hoover FBI Building, 935 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Tel: (202) 324 3447. Website: www.fbi.gov Opening hours: Currently closed. No date has yet been set for its reopening. Free admission. Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial The Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial pays tribute to the accomplishments of the 32nd US president. With sculptures, waterfalls, pools and walls of grey granite, it honours his services to the country during four terms of office and highlights historical events like the Great Depression and WWII. Most interesting are the two FDR bronze statues. Since Roosevelt never wanted to be pictured in a wheelchair, there is a largerthan-life statue in which he is wearing a floor-length cape. The true-to-scale sculpture, where he is sitting in his wheelchair, is not visible unless one visits the bookstore. There is also a bronze likeness of Eleanor Roosevelt.

1850 West Basin Drive, SW (Tidal Basin and the Potomac River) Tel: (202) 426 6841. Website: www.nps.gov/fdrm Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400. Free admission. International Spy Museum All is not what it seems at one of Washington's most fun museums. Through multimedia presentations, hands-on exhibits and audiovisual effects, the focus is on educating the public about espionage's impact on current and historic events. Spy paraphernalia such as decoder machines, miniature cameras, a lipstick pistol and even James Bond's Aston Martin with machine gun headlights are on display. Its newest exhibit, Operation Spy, allows visitors to assume a cover, and among other things, conduct video surveillance, carry out a polygraph test on a suspect agent and escape from a high security compound. Each period of espionage history is showcased in an appropriate setting: Mata Hari and the Sisterhood of Spies are set in a boudoir; a European farmhouse documents the activities of the OSS (the Office of the Strategic Services, the forerunner of the CIA), and a fallout shelter chronicles the Cold War. 800 F Street, NW Tel: (202) 393 7798 or 1 866 779 6873. Website: www.spymuseum.org Opening hours: Daily (Mar-Aug) 0900-2000; (Sep-Feb) 1000-1800. Admission charge. Korean War Veterans Memorial Located adjacent to the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool, the marble and limestone Korean War Veterans Memorial was built entirely with funds donated from individuals and dedicated in 1995. Sitting on a 0.9-hectare (2.2-acre) site, the sculpture features 5.8m (19ft) soldiers in combat, with the American flag as their symbolic objective. A mural wall is inscribed with the words Freedom is not free' and the images of thousands of the ordinary personnel who supported the combat troops in the military operation. Independence Avenue at the Lincoln Memorial Tel: (202) 426 6841. Website: www.nps.gov/kwvm Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400. Free admission.

Lincoln Memorial The imposing 5.8m (19ft) marble statue of Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president of the United States, gazes from the Lincoln Memorial across the Reflecting Pool to the Washington Monument. The style of the memorial is that of a Greek temple with 36 Doric columns, but it is the statue of Lincoln, sculpted by Daniel Chester French, that steals the show. On the interior walls are inscriptions from the Gettysburg Address and Lincoln's second inaugural speech. Independence Avenue at 23rd Street, NW Tel: (202) 426 6841. Website: www.nps.gov/linc Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400. Free admission. National Mall Many of Washington's most important monuments and institutions, described individually below, are located in the National Mall, a green park area extending 3km (2 miles) from the US Capitol to the Washington Monument. Major Pierre L'Enfant originally planned the Mall as a grand avenue lined with mansions, but lack of funds meant that the site was just left as an open area used for grazing animals. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century, when many more public institutions and monuments had been constructed in the immediate area (including the White House), that they were linked with the series of gardens that now make up the Mall. It is an ideal place for people watching from one of the many benches shaded by 200-year-old elm trees and is also the site for many celebrations throughout the year, such as the Independence Day Celebrations on 4 July. Between Constitution and Independence Avenues, SW Tel: (202) 485 9880. Website: www.nps.gov/nama Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. National WWII Memorial The newest addition to the National Mall is a commemoration to WWII soldiers, the home front and the nation. Pools and erupting fountains are surrounded by pathways, two large arches (each representing the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans), a hero's memorial and one pillar for every state in the Union at that period and its territories.

Off Independence Avenue, just south of 17th Street on the National Mall Tel: (202) 426 6841 or 1 800 639 4992. Website: www.wwiimemorial.com Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Smithsonian Institution Museums The Smithsonian Institution (website: www.si.edu) encompasses many museums and research centres around the city. They are: Anacostia Museum and Center for AfricanAmerican History, Arthur M Sackler Gallery, Arts & Industries Building, Freer Gallery of Art, Hirshorn Museum & Sculpture Garden, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, the two National Air and Space Museums, which includes the facility on Sixth Street and Independence Avenue and the Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Virginia, near Dulles Airport, National Museum of African Art, National Museum of American History (closed for renovations until November 2008, but objects are on display at the National Air and Space Museum), National Museum of Natural History, National Museum of the American Indian, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian National Postal Museum, National Zoological Park, Renwick Gallery of Smithsonian American Art Museum, and the Smithsonian American Art Museum. Some key ones are detailed below. Smithsonian Institution Information Center Located in the red sandstone building known as the Castle, the centre has two orientation theatres, electronic wall maps, interactive touch-screens in six languages, scale models of Washington and the crypt of founder, James Smithson. Jefferson Drive on the National Mall Tel: (202) 633 1000. Website: www.si.edu/visit Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730. Free admission. National Air and Space Museum The most popular of all the Smithsonian Museums, the National Air and Space Museum traces the development of air and space travel. It is home to the original Wright Brothers' 1903 Flyer, Charles Lindbergh's Spirit of St Louis, the Bell X-1 (the plane that broke the sound barrier in 1947), the Apollo 11 lunar command module and a vast collection of aviation and space technology memorabilia. Free 90-minute tours trace the

history of air and space. The museum also houses an IMAX film theatre and the Albert Einstein Planetarium. Sixth Street and Independence Avenue, SW Tel: (202) 633 1000. Website: www.nasm.si.edu Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730. Free admission, charge for the planetarium and IMAX. National Air and Space Museum - Steven S Udvar-Hazy Center Located next to Dulles airport, the second of the National Air and Space Museums is big in both physical size (70,611 sq m/760,057 sq ft) and exhibits. It is home to 140 one-ofa-kind or historically significant planes and spacecraft. Visitors can view the Space Shuttle Enterprise and space capsules as well as such goodies as the Concorde, the Enola Gay (the plane that dropped the atom bomb) and the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, a high-speed, high altitude reconnaissance aircraft from the ground level, or on skywalks' and bridges. On the far side of the museum is an observation tower with a 360-degree view that includes the Blue Ridge Mountains, Dulles Airport and the surrounding area. The museum's IMAX theatre features movies about flight and space. This attraction makes a great day trip. There is no specific transportation from downtown but a shuttle service from Dulles Airport to the museum is provided by Virginia Regional Transit (website: www.vatransit.org). The bus stops outside the main terminal on the ground level at kerbside location 2E. It is well worth the trip. 14390 Air and Space Museum Parkway, Chantilly, Virginia Tel: (202) 633 1000. Website: www.nasm.si.edu/udvarhazy Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730. Free admission, charge for the planetarium and IMAX. National Museum of the American Indian (NMAI) NMAI is a tribute to Native Americans. The impressive structure is circular and faces east in accordance to American Indian traditions. Decorated in earthy tones, it is designed to reflect indigenous aesthetics. The museum is divided into four sections: Our Universe focuses on Native philosophies related to creation and the relationship between man and the universe; Our Peoples relates the life of Native Americans via videos; Our Lives focuses on the contemporary life and identities of eight Native Communities; and there is also a changing contemporary exhibit. In the Lelawi Theater the audience is put in the middle of a unique multi-media presentation about tribal life.

Fourth Street and Independence Avenue, SW Tel: (202) 633 1000. Website: www.nmai.si.edu Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730. Free admission. National Museum of Natural History The Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History has a superb collection of dinosaur fossils, an insect zoo, the world's largest preserved bush elephant, the 45.5-carat Hope Diamond and an IMAX film theatre. The Mammal Hall is devoted to mammal and human diversity, evolution and adaptation. 10th Street and Constitution Avenue, NW Tel: (202) 633 1000 or 4629 (IMAX). Website: www.mnh.si.edu Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730. Free admission, charge for the IMAX. Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery (Donald Reynolds Center for American Art and Portraiture) It has taken six years, but the renovation of the third oldest building in DC (formerly the first patent building) is finally complete. Many fine original features, like the marble floors, have been preserved. The building houses two museums: the National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum. The portrait side includes images of people who have helped to build the national culture (such contemporary literary notables as Tom Wolfe and Toni Morrison). There are also pictures of artist Diego Rivera and one of Jackie Kennedy. America's presidents are artfully arranged in room-like settings with open spaces and pillars. The American Art section is a compilation of Western art, Impressionism, folk art (like dolls and quilts), and the American Experience, a series of pictures of town and country life. Eighth and F Streets Tel: (202) 633 1000. Website: http://reynoldscenter.org Opening hours: Daily 1130-1900. Free admission. National Zoological Park

Two life-size lion sculptures guard the gates of The National Zoological Park. The zoo is part of the Smithsonian Institution and is famous throughout the world for its work in species and conservation research as well as its pair of giant pandas and their two-yearold son who was born in the zoo. Originally founded in 1889, the zoo, which covers the steep slopes of the gorge cut by Rock Creek, has introduced simulations of the habitats of many of its animals. Habitats include an outdoor primate enclosure, a wetlands area, a pollinarium for humming-birds and butterflies, a reptile centre and Amazonia, a recreation of the world's largest tropical rain forest. Some of the zoo's charm is overshadowed by its large amount of renovation. 3001 Connecticut Avenue Tel: (202) 633 1000 or 4800 (recorded information). Website: www.natzoo.si.edu Opening hours: (1 Apr-31 Oct) 0600-2000 (buildings open 1000-1800); (1 Nov-31 Mar) 0600-1800 (buildings open 1000-1630). Free admission. Jefferson Memorial The Jefferson Memorial is a 5.8m (19ft) statue of the third US president, Thomas Jefferson. Surrounded by passages from the 1776 Declaration of Independence, his memorial was not erected until over 100 years after his death. Built in a neo-classical style and framed by the cherry trees along the Tidal Basin, it is one of the most attractive monuments on National Mall, especially at night. Tidal Basin South end of 15th Street, SW Tel: (202) 426 6841. Website: www.nps.gov/thje Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Vietnam Veterans Memorial Though simply designed, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial is the most moving. Opened in 1982, the 70 separate panels of the V-shaped black granite walls, 150m (493ft) in length, are inscribed with the names of the 58,209 Americans missing or killed in the Vietnam War. What makes the site even more poignant is the common occurrence of relatives making rubbings of their loved ones names. Constitution Avenue and Henry Bacon Drive, NW Tel: (202) 426 6841.

Website: www.nps.gov/vive Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. US Capitol US legislative policy is shaped under the magnificent 55m (180ft) white dome of the US Capitol. The cornerstone of the US Capitol, home to the Senate and the House of Representatives, was laid in 1793. It was not until 1800 that Congress moved into its new home, even though only the north wing was finished completely. The white-painted dome is visible from all parts of the city and is topped by the 5.8m (19ft) Statue of Freedom. Several areas of the building are open to the public, including Statuary Hall, the original Supreme Court Chamber and the Crypt (the intended burial place of George Washington and his wife). Capitol Hill Tel: (202) 225 6827. Website: www.aoc.gov Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1630; Guided tours: Mon-Sat every 15 minutes, 09001545. Free admission: Passes for hour-long tours are distributed on a first-come first-served basis from the kiosk at the corner of First Street and Maryland, SW. It does not hurt to contact your ambassador or congressman regarding a pass. Washington Monument Dedicated to the first president of the United States, the Washington Monument dates from 1885 and is 169m (555ft) tall. A lift takes visitors to the top to enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding area. The 193 restored Memorial Stones, which have been donated over the years (from July 1848) by states, cities and foreign countries, pay tribute to George Washington. There are also exhibits about the monument's history and the nation's Founding Father. 15th Street and Constitution Avenue, SW Tel: (202) 426 6841. Website: www.nps.gov/wamo Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700. Free admission: Entrance by timed tickets only, available on the day of admission on a first-come first-served basis at the kiosk on the Washington Monument grounds at 15th Street and Madison Drive. Advance tickets are available for a fee (tel: 1 800 967 2283).

United States Holocaust Memorial Museum Each of the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum's four floors chronicles a period of the Jewish Holocaust. Nazi Assault' (1933-39), on the fourth floor, covers life in the 1930s and the Nazi rise to power. Floor three, Final Solution' (1940-45) deals with the subsequent genocide, and the Last Chapter' on the second floor, concludes with liberation and the Holocaust aftermath. The main level has a concentration camp memorial and Remember the Children: Daniel's Story, a sensitive exhibit geared to help children understand the horrors of the Holocaust. The films, photos, eyewitness testimonies and artefacts that tell the story of the Holocaust often leave visitors dabbing their eyes. 100 Raoul Wallenburg Place, SW Tel: (202) 488 0400. Website: www.ushmm.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730, closed on Yom Kippur and Christmas Day. Free admission: Timed passes are required for access to the permanent exhibition. Tickets are free on the day of admission on a first-come first-served basis or in advance (tel: 1 800 400 9373; website: www.tickets.com) for a fee. Shopping Washington, DC is not a manufacturing area so it is not known for its locally produced items. It is a very affluent area, however, and subsequently there are numerous shopping malls and districts. The Georgetown neighbourhood is a popular shopping destination because of its charming streets, despite parking problems and the lack of a convenient Metro station. The Shops at Georgetown Park, a 19th-century styled mall situated at M Street and Wisconsin Avenue, NW, was originally built to house buses and streetcars. In the 1960s, it became the location of the Situation Room for the White House and the site of the first hotline to Moscow. Under a huge skylight and surrounded by an elegant Victorian interior of chandeliers and wrought iron, there are about 100 shops and cafes with prices definitely not aimed at the bargain hunter. Downtown is Union Station on Massachusetts Avenue, which has shopping on two levels with over 100 outlets, including familiar names such as Ann Taylor, B Dalton Bookseller and Jos A Bank. You can find more upmarket shopping at the Mazza Gallerie on Wisconsin Avenue (Metro station Friendship Heights), along the border with Maryland, which is a multi-level shopping centre, housing trendy Neiman Marcus. Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, in Arlington Virginia (Metro station blue and yellow lines Pentagon

City) is the quintessential shopping mall. The Adams Morgan neighbourhood offers an interesting international mix of clothing, jewellery, CDs and books. In particular, the shops along 18th Street, NW, between Florida Avenue and Columbia Road, are good for browsing. The shops in the various Smithsonian Institution Museums stock a fascinating collection of gifts, crafts, books, jewellery and toys. Shops linked to the museums are open daily 1000-1700. Car drivers keen to find bargains should make their way 40km (25 miles) south of the city to the Potomac Mills Outlet Mall in Prince William, Virginia, which has over 200 discount stores with brand names such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Guess and Tommy Hilfiger. There are several farmers markets in the DC area. Some are year-round like the DC Farmers Market near Capitol Hill, 1309 Fifth Street (Tuesday to Thursday 0700-1730, Friday and Saturday 0700-1830 and Sunday 0700-1400), and others are seasonal, such as the FreshFarm Market at Dupont Circle (every Sunday 0900-1300). Washington, DC has a sales tax of 5.75%, which is added to the purchase price at the point of sale. There is no system for visitors to claim the tax back. Many shops are open Monday to Saturday 0900-1800 (with some malls open later into the evening) and Sunday 1200-1800.

Havana Mini Guide Cuba is the Caribbean's largest, most diverse island. With unprecedented changes continuing apace since the withdrawal of Fidel Castro in early 2008, it's also the most dynamic. Cuba pulsates with laughter, music, humour and yes, difficulties. All life's ingredients coalesce in Cuba's tropical mix and nowhere more so than in its magnetic capital. Even the name Havana (La Habana) evokes images of antique cars, killer cigars and revolution. Today's Havana tempers revolutionary fever with the fervent desire for hard cash, but the city remains true to its heart, its passion permeating its steamy alleys and salt-sprayed sidewalks. The exquisite architecture of Old Havana makes it the Americas' best-preserved colonial centre. Taking a stroll through shady plazas to the world famous Malecn with no goal beyond an ice-choked mojito feels like stepping back in time. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is being restored through a programme that feeds tourist revenues into renovation efforts. But not all that glitters is gold: some 300 buildings a year become uninhabitable or collapse outright, and visitors are offered the jarring sight of brightly painted, restored buildings alongside crumbling ones. Even the worldliest travellers can suffer from culture shock in Havana, where Al Caponeera cars cruise alongside late-model Audis and children in pressed uniforms skip to school. Contradictions are rife, but trumped by a live-for-the-moment attitude embodied in the ubiquitous Cuban rhythms. The island's rich history is nowhere more apparent than in the mix of beats that make up Cuba's music and the diversity of its people - a warm, lively and ingenious mlange of European, Asian and African roots. Cuba gained independence from Spain in 1898, after two hard-fought wars. The United States entered the battlefield late, took credit for victory early and commandeered Cuban politics and industry for 60 years. Americans flocked to Havana, which had turned into a mafia-financed playground of cheap liquor, prostitution, gambling and fancy hotels and nightclubs. However, corruption was rife and the gap between rich and poor was growing ever

wider. A group of guerrillas, under the leadership of Fidel Castro, Che Guevara, and Camilo Cienfuegos, finally succeeded in overthrowing the dictator Fulgencio Batista in 1959 and the Americans fled, taking much of Cuba's wealth with them. In 1961, the American government, organised a mercenary force to overthrow Castro and company. However, much to the embarrassment of the Americans, their forces suffered a resounding defeat at the Bay of Pigs (Playa Girn). When Cuba declared itself socialist, the US imposed a full trade blockade, including travel restrictions to Cuba by Americans, that has been in place ever since. The revolutionary government is credited with sweeping improvements in health care and education and the economy is tentatively expanding, helped by the rapid rise in tourism - the country's top export earner. Tourism is also a goldmine for entrepreneurial individuals, who make visitors feel welcome (albeit sometimes besieged) with their upbeat and infectious spontaneity.

City Statistics

Location Havana Province, Cuba. Dialling code 53. Population 2.5 million. Time zone GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from second or third Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs. Average January temperatures 24C (75F). Average July temperatures 28C (83F).

Annual rainfall 1,320mm (52 inches).

Sightseeing
Sightseeing Overview Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) is best explored on foot to take full advantage of the glorious Spanish colonial architecture, increasingly under restoration. Visitors can easily occupy an afternoon or two meandering through the narrow streets and around the shady plazas finding their own favourite spots. There will always be something happening to catch the eye - pull up a bar stool or cafe table and watch the colourful pageant happen by. Museum-lovers will be spoilt for choice as more and more open each year, many in wonderful old buildings. While Old Havana never fails to charm, it would be a pity to neglect other areas of the city, such as Vedado, the leafy district where gambling and good living once ruled. La Rampa, Vedado's main street, runs from the Habana Libre, (the Havana Hilton for a fleeting moment after it was built - the revolutionary government commandeered it shortly after 1959) down to the Malecn. La Rampa is surrounded by many fine examples of art deco and eclectic architecture, not least the imposing Hotel Nacional and Coppelia ice cream parlour. To the west of the city is the upmarket seaside district of Miramar, bisected by wide, tree-lined Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) and flanked by eye-popping mansions now restored and used as government offices, by joint-venture companies and embassies. A good overview of the city, including the iconic sculpture of Che Guevara on the side of the Ministry of the Interior, can be had from the observatory atop the Jos Mart Memorial in La Plaza de la Revolucin (Revolution Square). A stroll along the Malecn, the famous seafront walk, which stretches almost the length of Havana, is a must. Here, old and young fish during the day and courting couples take their paseo (promenade) at night. The Malecn also provides a wonderful view of Havana's cityscape, especially at sunrise or sunset. For a different, perhaps even more brilliant perspective, view the city from the giant Cristo (Jesus Christ) statue across the bay or the Morro-Cabaa nearby.

Tourist Information The following travel agencies are all operated by the Cuban government and provide traveller information: Cubatur Calle 23 corner of Calle L, Vedado Tel: (7) 833 3142 or 834 4111. Website: www.cubatur.cu Cubanacn Calle 68, 503, corner of 5th Avenue, Playa Tel: (7) 204 1658 or 1892. Website: www.cubanacan.cu Havanatur Calle 3RA corner Calle 74, Miramar Tel: (7) 201 9800. Website: www.havanatur.cu Infotur Obispo 524, Habana Vieja Tel: 866 3333. Website: www.infotur.cu Information is also available online (website: www.cubatravel.cu) and at the airport (Terminal Three) (tel: (7) 642 6101). Passes There are currently no tourist passes available in Havana.

Key Attractions
Plaza de Armas This Habana Vieja gem with its antique book market held in the shade of majestic trees is one of the city's most inviting plazas and an excellent place to start a tour - especially since it's where the city is said to have been founded in 1519. A small chapel, El Templete, with an interesting fresco by the French artist Jean Baptiste Vermay, was built in 1828 to mark the spot. In front of the chapel is a ceiba tree, similar to the one under which the first mass in Cuba is said to have been held. Every November 16, hundreds of

Habaneros dressed in white take a turn around the ceiba - an old tradition said to bring good luck. Walk across the plaza to see the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum), which occupies the magnificent old Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, once home to the highest colonial authority in Cuba and a former Presidential Palace. This popular museum gives an overview of Havana's history and has a good gift shop - don't miss Cuba's only wooden cobblestone' street in front. The oldest building in this square is actually just to the side - the impressive Castillo de le Real Fuerza, a 16th-century colonial fortress surrounded by a moat, today home to the Museo de la Cermica Artstica. When shopping is on the agenda, the nearby market is the best place in Havana for local arts and crafts. El Templete Corner of Calle Baratillo, between Calle O'Reilly & Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission charge. Museo de la Ciudad Calle Tacon 1, between Calle Obispo & O'Reilly, Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 866 8183. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission charge. Museo de la Cermica Artstica Corner of Mercaderes & Amargura, Plaza de Armas, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 861 6130. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission charge. Plaza de la Catedral (Cathedral Square) Plaza de la Catedral is one of Havana's best-preserved squares, with the cathedral and surrounding buildings almost all restored to their original splendour- perhaps nowhere in the Americas does history come so alive in stone than here. The Catedral de San Cristobal de La Habana is an 18th-century baroque building occupying the north side of the square. Collecting famous works both old and new, the Centro Wilfredo Lam, adjacent, is a must for art buffs. Across the plaza is the oldest building, which dates from 1720, the Museo de Arte Colonial, an architectural masterpiece built around a plant-filled central courtyard, which is complemented by the collection of colonial furniture gathered from Havana's palaces and mansions. Other sophisticated buildings line this square and now house cafes, restaurants, cultural centres and gift shops.

Catedral de San Cristobal de la Habana Empedrado 156, Plaza de la Catedral Tel: (7) 861 7771. Opening hours: Officially open every day but often locked. Free admission. Museo de Arte Colonial Calle San Ignacio 61, Plaza de la Catedral Tel: (7) 862 6440. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission charge. Centro Wilfredo Lam San Ignacio 22, corner Empedrado Tel: (7) 861 2096 or 3419. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700. Admission charge. Hemingway's Havana No visit to Havana would be complete without paying homage to one of its most famous residents, Ernest Hemingway. On a stroll between Plaza de Armas and Plaza de la Catedral, consider a stop at Hotel Ambos Mundos, a stylish 1920s building (with bland rooms), where Ernest Hemingway stayed during much of the 1930s. In room 511, he began to write For Whom The Bell Tolls. Hemingway's room has been preserved pretty much as it was when he was a guest - and is now open as a museum. But to pay true homage to the master of literary economy, do as he did and start the evening with a mojito, a delicious blend of rum and mint, in La Bodeguita del Medio, and continue with another of his favourite tipples, a daiquiri, in El Floridita. Hotel Ambos Mundos Calle Obispo 153, corner of Calle Mercaderes, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 860 9530. Opening hours: 1000-1600 (the room). Admission charge. La Bodeguita del Medio Empedrado 207 between Cuba & San Ignacio

Tel: (7) 867 1374/5. Opening hours: 1100-2400. El Floridita Obispo 557, corner Calle Monserrate Tel: (7) 867 1300. Opening hours: 1100-0100. Museo de la Revolucin y Memorial Granma (Museum of the Revolution and Granma Memorial) The 1950s dictator Batista (like all dictators) had to try and impress the populace with a grand presidential palace. Ironic, then, that this glorious palace, which he hardly had time to enjoy, was appropriated to house the Museum of the Revolution, displaying the struggle of the Cuban people to gain sovereignty over their own island. Exhibits include photographs, cinefilm, clothing, original documents and weapons. Encased in a glass pavilion is the Granma Memorial - the boat Granma in which Fidel Castro and 81 combatants returned to Cuba from exile in Mexico in 1956. Outside is the eternal flame, surrounded by various vehicles used in the struggle. Museo de la Revolucin Calle Refugio 1, between Calle Monserrate & Calle Zulueta, Habana Vieja Tel: (7) 862 4092/3/4. Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700. Admission charge.

Shopping
Shopping in Cuba means top cigars and rum, world-class art, and unique, accomplished crafts. All tourist hotels have at least one souvenir shop, where prices are in Convertible Pesos (CUC). As buildings and storefronts get restored one by one, Old Havana is becoming a hive of shopping activity, with everything from artisan chocolates and perfume to sterling silver and hand-sewn dresses. Again, payment is in Convertible Pesos (CUC) and visitors should note that credit cards, except American Express and other cards from US banks, are accepted. Shopping malls have now arrived in Havana and the modern Tiendas Carlos Tercero, Avenida Salvador Allende, is stuffed with clothes, shoes and beauty products. For designer items, as well as a fashion show, La Maison, Calle 7ma y 16, in Miramar, is the place to go. It sells designer clothes, jewellery and cosmetics.

Cuba will be forever associated with cigars. Long acknowledged as producing the best in the world, Cuban cigars (known as habanos or puros) are expensive internationally but much cheaper on home soil. Good-quality cigars can be bought at Casa del Tabaco, Calle Oficios 53, or at the factory Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas, Calle Industria 520. Cuban rum and coffee are also good buys and travel well. Of course, Cuban music CDs pack the shelves of music and souvenir stores and wandering minstrels are always peddling their latest recordings in the bars and cafes of Habana Vieja. Other common souvenirs include musical instruments, traditional dolls, handcrafted jewellery, as well as Che Guevara everything, including the ubiquitous three peso coin with his likeness (worth US$.015). Fine art, from world renowned prints to outrageously kitsch paintings, fill shops and souvenir stalls. Many local handicrafts are made from coconut fibre, seashells and seeds. Visitors should avoid buying jewellery made from tortoiseshell or black coral as both are protected and it is often illegal to import them to one's home country (for example, the UK). The main markets are near the Plaza de Catedral, open from Wednesday to Saturday 1000-1900, on the Malecn, between Calles D and E, open from Sunday to Tuesday 1000-1800, and on Calle 23 between Calles M &N open daily 1000-1800 (this one is the smallest of the bunch). Shops should be open daily 1000-1800 including Sundays 10001300, although this may not always be the case.

BRUSSELS MINI GUIDE The European Parliament has found its ideal home in Brussels (Bruxelles in French, Brussel in Flemish). This inland capital city of Belgium, bordered by The Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg and France, is a multicultural and multilingual city at the very heart of the EU. Indeed, it claims with some justification to be the Capital of Europe'. Belgium celebrated its 175th anniversary of statehood during 2005, but the history of the nation's capital goes back much further. Brussels was already a thriving trade centre by the Middle Ages. The Bruxellois have inherited the wisdom of ancestors who lived under Roman, Spanish, Austrian, French, Dutch and German domination - their country winning independence only in 1830. Today, Brussels boasts a highly skilled and adaptable workforce. Despite the population of Belgium numbering only 10.5 million, with Brussels itself a little over a million-strong, the Bruxellois have the ability to compensate for their small numbers with skilled diplomacy, compromise and negotiation. These striking traits are followed closely by a highly intellectual and offbeat sense of humour, underpinned by a strong sense of the bizarre. This may help explain why the Surrealist art movement, pioneered by Ren Magritte, took off in Brussels. A playful and irreverent approach to life is also manifest in the Belgian love affair with the comic strip, popularised worldwide with Herg's boy hero, Tintin. Language is a complex and serious issue in bilingual (French and Flemish) Brussels, as well as being a focus of communal tensions, more of which surfaced in the early part of 2005. Some 85% of native Bruxellois speak French as their first language. Ironically, Brussels is also capital of Flemish-speaking Flanders. However, the fierce linguistic debate also takes a lighter form, with constant puns and word games forming a complex web. For instance, while a top-notch restaurant is called Comme Chez Soi (Just Like Home), a less prestigious establishment calls itself Comme Chez Moi (Just Like My Home), with more than a twist of irony. Yet the image of the city suffers abroad, due to its very diversity, as well as the self-effacing nature of its quirky inhabitants, too modest to blow their own trumpet. Brussels has no symbol to rival the sky scraping Eiffel Tower, aside from the tiny but famed Manneken-Pis, a statuette of a urinating boy. The first visit to Brussels, uncoloured by expectations, is therefore all the more rewarding. Narrow cobbled streets open suddenly into the breathtaking Grand-Place, with its ornate guild houses, impressive Town Hall and buzzing atmosphere. It would be difficult to find a more beautiful square in the whole of Europe. Bars, restaurants and museums are clustered within the compact city centre, enclosed within the petit ring, which follows the path of the 14th-century city walls. The medieval city is clearly defined by its narrow, labyrinthine streets, making it easy to distinguish the later additions, such as Lopold II's Parisian-style boulevards (Belliard and La Loi) today lined with embassies, banks and the grand apartments of the bourgeoisie and close to the glitzy new EU quarter. The working class still congregates in the Marolles district, in the shadow of the Palais de Justice, although this area is on the up-and-up. New immigrant communities are settling in the rundown area around the Gare du Nord. Neighbouring communes, St-Gilles and Ixelles, draw an arty crowd with their in' shops and restaurants. These are worth the trek, if only to glimpse some of Brussels' finest art nouveau buildings, the style developed by Bruxellois Victor Horta, the son of a shoemaker.

With a pleasant temperate climate (warm summers and mild winters) and a host of sights and delights to entertain, Brussels offers the visitor a great deal more than just beer and chocolate. City Statistics Location: Brussels region, Belgium. Dialling code: 32. Population: 141,000 (city); 1,975,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; European two-pin round plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 3C (37.5F). Average July temperatures: 17.5C (63.5F). Annual rainfall: 850mm (33 inches). Sightseeing With the exception of the Grand-Place and the narrow streets nearby, sightseeing in Brussels is relatively crowd free. Brussels offers a remarkable choice of some 90 museums, some tiny, and some international in scale. All museums have bilingual labelling (French and Dutch/Flemish). English is not always used but Englishlanguage leaflets are usually available. In recent years, signposting (for drivers and pedestrians) of Brussels' top museums and major monuments has been improved, making sightseeing even easier. The city's architecture is often breathtaking, especially in and around the historic Grand-Place, which is easily covered on foot and is home to a cluster of alluring museums dedicated to topics as diverse as beer, chocolate and lace-making. Certain sights and sensations are obligatory, such as glimpsing the trickle of water flowing from the MannekenPis and making a wish while touching the ghoulish bronze statue of Charles-Everard de T'Serclaes - said to bring good luck. However, the city has much more to offer. The public transport system works well enough to safely deposit the walk-weary tourist in Brussels' distinct districts: the modern Quartier des Institutions Europennes; aristocratic Sablon, near the Place Royal; vibrant working-class Marolles, south of Grand-Place; St-Gilles, with its splendid examples of Victor Horta's art nouveau architecture; and Heysel, far out to the northwest, with its memories of the triumph of the 1958 Exhibition and the Stade Roi Baudoin, site of the 1985 Heysel stadium disaster. Tourist Information Brussels International-Tourism and Congress (BI-TC) Htel de Ville, Grand-Place Tel: (02) 513 8940. Website: www.brusselsinternational.be Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1000-1400 (winter); daily 0900-1800 (summer); closed Sundays JanEaster. Passes The Brussels Card (website: www.brusselscard.be) gives free access to museums and STIB public transport for periods of either 24, 48 or 72 hours. It also offers a 25% discount for the Visit Brussels tourist bus (see Tours of the City), along with reduced prices in selected shops, restaurants and bars. A guide to all the city's many museums is available at www.brusselsmuseums.be. Key Attractions Grand-Place

A web of narrow cobbled streets suddenly opens out into the vast Grand-Place - economic and social heart of Brussels since the Middle Ages. The array of filigree gothic buildings is dominated by the asymmetrical Htel de Ville, built in the 15th century. Its 96m (315ft) spire is topped with a gilded copper statue of St Michael. Opposite the Town Hall and almost as grand is the Maison du Roi, commissioned in 1515 and faithfully rebuilt in the 1890s. Sometime pied--terre of the Hapsburg monarchy, the building now hosts the Muse de la Ville de Bruxelles and its small collection includes tapestries and altarpieces, as well as the costumes worn by the Manneken-Pis. A series of lavish guildhouses complete the rectangle of the square - number 10 still houses the guild of brewers, Maison de l'Arbre d'Or. Events, displays and markets are often held in the Grand-Place. Grand-Place Muse de la Ville de Bruxelles Tel: (02) 279 4350. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Manneken-Pis The Rue de l'Etuve leads from the grandeur of Grand-Place to this allegory of irreverence and symbol of Bruxellois self-mockery - a bronze statuette of a urinating boy. If it were not for the occupation of the young child, the sculpture might resemble an angelic putto, such as the ones decorating the facade of the nearby Bourse (Stock Exchange), said to have been sculpted by Rodin. Jrme Duquesnoy cast Manneken-Pis in the 1660s, perhaps as a reference to the peasant lads of legend, who extinguished fires with their urine. MannekenPis is regularly kitted out in a choice of some 500 outfits supplied by companies, charities and other organisations wishing to promote their name or brand. Rue de l'Etuve Place du Grand-Sablon Although the smartest square in town, the Place du Grand-Sablon remains laid-back. Notre-Dame du Sablon dominates the square. It began as a humble chapel for the guild of archers, but the arrival of a statue of Mary (with reputed magical healing properties) from Antwerp, in 1348, dramatically increased its popularity. The building was expanded into an impressive gothic church, which still hosts the annual Ommegang procession (see Special Events). The area is a major centre for antiques dealers and hosts a busy antiques and books market at the weekend. It is worth wandering around the Sablon district. Intriguing cul-de-sacs lead off from the square to shady spaces - such as the charming Impasse Saint-Jacques. The nearby Place du Petit-Sablon is a small, green square, surrounded by 48 bronze statuettes representing the 16th-century guilds, with larger statues at its heart, including the martyr-heroes, Egmont and Hornes, and Mercator, the cartographer. Place du Grand-Sablon Notre-Dame du Sablon Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0930-1700, Sun 1300-1700. Free admission. Palais Royal (Royal Palace) Some of Brussels' most opulent buildings and key attractions are clustered around the centrally located Parc de Bruxelles, a formal 1870s park with poker-straight tree-lined avenues and a central fountain. The southeast edge is graced by the Palais des Acadmies, a former residence of the Prince of Orange and Place du Trne, an impressive statue of Lopold II astride a horse. Brussels' Royal Palace and museums are congregated nearby. Opposite the Parc de Bruxelles lies the Palais Royal, begun by King William I (1815-30) in the 19th century and later expanded by Lopold II. The royal family now resides in Laeken, in northern Brussels. However, the palace

is still used as royal office and for state functions. From the end of July until early September, the palace, with its Throne Room, chandeliers, tapestries and gracious dining room, opens to the public. Rue Bredeorde 16 Tel: (02) 551 2020. Website: www.monarchie.be/en/visit/palace Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1630 (mid Jul-mid Aug); times can vary due to official events. Information on (02) 513 8940. Free admission. Muse Belvue (Belvue Museum) Re-opened in July 2005 to coincide with Belgium's 175th anniversary celebrations after major re-modelling work, the Muse Belvue is dedicated to the 12 major periods of the country's history. The exhibitions are themed around the reigns of each of the country's 12 monarchs. The building itself is located at the scene of the 1830 Belgian Revolution which led to the establishment of an independent state. Musum des Sciences Naturelles (Natural Sciences Museum) Close to the European Parliament and containing what is claimed to be one of the finest dinosaur collections in the world (starring' the iguanadons of Bernissart) this fascinating museum additionally features a special presentation on the Arctic and Antarctic regions. There is an extensive permanent marine mammals exhibition. All forms of wildlife, extinct and extant, plus mineralogy, are represented here. A new dinosaur gallery opened in October 2007. Rue Vautier 29 Tel: (02) 627 4238. Website: www.naturalsciences.be Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1645, Sat-Sun 1000-1800; daily 1000-1800 during Belgian school holidays. Admission charge. Muse du Cinquantenaire Everything conceived by Lopold II was on a grandiose scale and the Parc du Cinquantenaire, built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence, is no exception. The Muse de l'Arme, situated in the north wing, has an interesting display of vintage aircraft and free entrance. However, the Muse du Cinquantenaire is the major draw card of the area. Boasting collections from five continents, ranging from prehistory to the present, it includes art nouveau furniture designed by Victor Horta and fine examples of centuries-old lace. Comic strip fans might find some pieces familiar - the large Egyptian collection was the source of inspiration for Belgium's artists, including Herg. Parc du Cinquantenaire 10 Tel: (02) 741 7211. Website: www.kmkg-mrah.be Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1700, Sat-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Muses Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Belgian Royal Museums of Fine Art) The most important of Belgium's museum complexes is located close to Place Royal. It boasts two rich museums, their collections ranging from the 14th century to the modern day - the Muse d'Art Ancien (Museum of Ancient Art), housed in the former court of Charles de Lorraine, and the underground Muse d'Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art), inaugurated in 1984. The Muse d'Art Ancien (also known as the Museum of Fine Arts) excels in its collection of the Old Masters, with works by Rubens, Bouts and Memling. Collections of Brueghel the Elder and Younger and Hieronymus Bosch are small, as Belgium's foreign masters took most of these treasures away with them. A passageway leads to the

Muse d'Art Moderne, with its splendid collection of the Belgian Surrealists. Ren Magritte is given pride of place, although the haunting works of Paul Delvaux are also of interest. Picasso, Chagall, Henry Moore and Francis Bacon are represented too. Rue de la Rgence 3 Tel: (02) 508 3211. Website: www.fine-arts-museum.be Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700. Admission charge. Shopping Chain stores dominate along the Rue Neuve, but more interesting fare can be found in the area between the Rue de Midi and the Grand Place. A highlight is Galeries St Hubert, which is home to many designer shops, and is claimed as Europe's first shopping arcade, dating from the 1840s. Brussels' classic souvenir is chocolate. Fresh creamy pralines are for sale at Wittamer, Place du Grand-Sablon, who have had almost a century to perfect their recipes. Other names to look out for are the top-quality Neuhaus, Grand-Place 27 and Galerie de la Reine 25-27, and Godiva, also located in the Grand-Place. Cheaper chocolates are available from the popular Lonidas chain, Boulevard Anspach 46. Belgian biscuits are also a gift guaranteed to bring a guilty smile to the receiver. Dandoy, Rue au Beurre 31, produce melt-in-your-mouth macaroons and the Brussels speciality speculoos - a gingerbread biscuit with a crunch. Beer is best bought at Beermania, Chausse de Wavre 174 (tel: (02) 512 1788; website: www.users.skynet.be/beermania), which stocks over 400 types of beer and glasses to suit. Designer clothes shops are clustered around the smart Avenue Louise and Avenue de la Toison d'Or. Key shopping stops on Avenue Louise include Belgian designers at Shine's flagship store, located at 82-84 Avenue Louise (fantastic for stunning silk dresses and floaty, Chinese-inspired creations) and more down-to-earth daywear in muted tones at Caroline Biss, 21 Avenue Louise. Established and up-and-coming Belgian designers (such as Olivier Strelli, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Carine Lauwers) line the fashionable Rue Antoine Dansaert. Innovative Stijl has more avant-garde Belgian designer clothes, by designers such as Xavier Delcour and Olivier Theyskens, at number 74, underwear at number 47 and children's clothes at Kat en Muis, number 32. For shoes, Nouchka at Avenue de la Toison d'Or, is an interesting venue. Children's and adults' tastes alike are met at Brussels' many comic book shops. Among these is centrally located La Boutique Tintin, Rue de la Colline 13. Brussels lace (on show at the Lace Museum, Rue de la Violette 6) is for sale at F Rubbrecht, Grand-Place 23, or at the city's largest lace maker, Manufacture Belge de Dentelle, Galerie de la Reine 6-8. Most of the souvenir lace shops around Grand-Place are less authentic. Every day is market day in the different parts of Brussels. Among the best of these is the flower market, open Tuesday to Sunday 0800-1800, at Grand-Place, also the site of the Sunday morning bird market. Antiques are sold at the market on Place du Grand-Sablon, Saturday 0900-1800 and Sunday 0900-1300, while the flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle, in the Marolles district, is open daily 0700-1300, at its best on weekend mornings. Standard shopping hours are 1000-1800/1900 but the Grand-Place area stays open until approximately 2000. Sales tax is 21% and can be refunded to non-EU citizens by any of the shops affiliated to Global Refund Belgium. Participating shops will issue a global refund cheque, which should be stamped at customs and then cashed upon leaving the country. BUCHAREST MINI GUIDE

Bucharest (Buchuresti), located between Transylvania's Carpathian Mountains and the Black Sea, in southeastern Romania, is an often misunderstood city. Its lovely neoclassical buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards inspired the nickname Paris of the Balkans' a century ago, but many gems are obscured by post-Stalinist, North Korean-style grey housing blocks built, intentionally, to hide finer architectural moments. To spot Byzantine-style chapels and bell-towered mansions visitors have to work a little. Impressions depend on how deep a sightseer goes. On the side streets of the historic centre are bars, eateries (French, Italian, Transylvanian), antique shops, a 15th-century court attributed to Vlad Dracul, and Piata Revolutiei, the heart of the 1989 protests that ended communism here in a sudden, bloody swoop (culminating with the execution of Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife). In the ritzy north (reached easily by metro) is a local favourite, the sprawling Herastrau Park, with boat rides and an open-air Village Museum displaying traditional homes. Locals are equally fond of classical music (particularly works by Bucharest's own George Enescu), which is played often at the 19th-century Romanian Athenaeum. Romania joined the EU in January 2007, and the sense of a new dynamism all over town is evident in construction projects (though sadly nothing in terms of a tourist office as of yet). Bucharest enjoys a temperate climate, but mid-summer is not a good time to visit, as temperatures soar, air conditioning is rare and many of the locals leave for the coast. City Statistics Location: Wallachia, southeast Romania. Dialling code: 40. Population: 1,924,960 (city). Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: - 2.4C (28F). Average July temperatures: 22.8C (73F). Annual rainfall: 530mm (21 inches). Sightseeing Bucharest has a number of exquisite galleries, museums, churches and architectural wonders but its political legacy also provides a wealth of sights. From its frenzied days in the early 1900s when it aspired to be the Paris of the Balkans' (note the Arc de Triumph on the broad boulevard Soseaua Kiseleff in the north), to the Communist legacy of Ceausescu's Centru Civic, evoking mixed feelings of awe and outrage, Bucharest's appeal is multilayered. The city has some superb museums - from those that celebrate peasant art's contribution to modern masters such as Brancusi, in the Romanian Peasant Museum, to those that celebrate Romania's contact with European masters, such as the National Art Museum, Zambaccian Museum, and the former home and now dedicated museum of painter Theodor Aman. Most museums are closed on Monday and some on Tuesday as well. Exquisite churches, such as Patriarchal Cathedral, Stavropoleos Church, and the Russian-style St Nicholas Students' Church, sit like precious jewels in the crown of the city's skyline. Visitors should note that Romanians are extremely religious and devoted to the healing powers of icons - these beliefs should always be respected. After hours of sightseeing, there are few places more pleasant to relax in than one of Bucharest's

beautiful parks. Tourist Information There is no tourist office in Bucharest and neither hotels nor travel agents can help much either. The government organisation listed below has some brochures online but no offices in Romania itself. Romanian Tourism Ministry Website: www.turism.ro or www.romaniatourism.com Passes There are no tourist passes currently available in Bucharest. Key Attractions Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament Palace) Ceausescu's greatest folly, begun in 1984, initially took 20,000 workers, 700 architects and the equivalent of over 3 billion to build. But by the time the dictator was executed in 1989, only the exterior and three rooms had been finished. What is seen from street level on Bulevardul Unirii is a 12-storey monolith rising 84m (276ft) above ground level but it is nearly as deep under ground. It is rumoured to hold a nuclear bunker big enough to contain the entire government, although its actual functions have not been revealed. Inspired by North Korean Communist architecture, which reflected Ceausescu's political leanings, it is 330,000 sq m (3,552,090 sq ft) in area and the second-largest administration building in the world (after the Pentagon). Intended to house Communist Party offices, ministries and state rooms, it is now the seat of Romania's Parliament, headquarters of the International Conference Centre and home to a surprisingly edgy National Museum of Contemporary Art. Regular 45-minute guided tours (in English), from Bulevardul Natiunile Unite focus on 10 rooms, including the 16m (52.5ft) Sala Unirii, built with a sliding ceiling, wide enough for a helicopter to enter. After a tour, consider visiting the National Museum of Contemporary Art, reached by a long clockwise walk to the entrance on the north side of the building and a ride up in the external glass lift. Palace of Parliament Tours Bulevardul Natiunili Unite Tel: (021) 316 0300. Website: www.cdep.ro Admission charge. National Museum of Contemporary Art Calea 13 Septembrie 1 Tel: (021) 318 9137. Website: www.mnac.ro Admission charge. Piata Revolutiei (Revolution Square) On 21 December 1989, 80,000 people thronged the square, supposedly in support of the president after riots in the town of Timisoara, when the Securitate arrested an outspoken priest. But when Ceausescu appeared on the balcony of what was then the Central Committee building (now part of the Romanian senate) people began to chant Ti-mi-soa-ra, Ti-mi-soa-ra' and the shock on Ceausescu's face pinpointed the true moment of his downfall - a moment televised all over Romania and, later, the world. However, this heroic people's revolution' is also thought to have been an inside job. Ceausescu and his wife tried to escape in a helicopter from the roof but, being told they were low on fuel, were dropped within the Romanian border, after which they were hastily tried and shot

on Christmas day. A white, marble plaque on the Senate building points to the balcony, inscribed with Glorie martirilor nostiri' (Glory to our Martyrs'), in remembrance of those killed in the fighting. In the middle of the square is a recent addition, the rather ugly Rebirth Memorial (Momorialul Renasterii), built to signal Romania's hopeful future. Just behind the library, a block west of Calea Victoriei, the facade of the building that housed the Securitate (Ceausescu's secret police), has been left in its ruined state, and now frames the glittering offices of the Romanian Architecture Union. Piata Revolutiei Free admission. Historic Centre The cobblestone streets between Calea Victoriei, Bulevardul Bratianu, Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and the River Dmbovita still comprise Bucharest's most atmospheric area and increasingly are home to an alternative culture of clubs, bars, trendy coffee houses and restaurants - most lively when they spill onto the cobbled streets (or overtake empty lots) during summer. At its heart is the 15thcentury Curtea Veche (Old Court), attributed to Vlad Tepes, which contains a few walls, arches, tombstones and one restored Corinthian column. Next door is Bucharest's oldest church, the 16thcentury Biserica Curtea Veche. Just east of here is the oldest inn, Hanul lui Manuc, Strada Franceza 62-64, which is still an inexpensive hotel with a basement restaurant and courtyard cafe-bar. North of here is Strada Lipscani, an old merchant street where everything from bridal gowns and handmade hats to cheap jeans are sold. Near its east end is a small alley called Hanul cu Tei, filled with antique shops. A block south of Strada Lipscani to the west is Strada Stavropoleos where the remarkable Biserica Stavropoleos can be visited. This church, completed in 1724, could easily qualify as the city's most beautiful, not least because its frescoes and icons have recently been restored and it is surrounded by a peaceful cloister garden filled with various antiquities and 19th-century tombstones. The church was designed by Constantin Brancoveanu (1688-1714), a Wallachian prince known for his religious architectural achievements. Curtea Veche Strada Franceza 60 Admission charge. Muzeul Taranului Roman (Romanian Peasant Museum) Housed in a giant 1912 palace made of red brick, this eclectic collection of peasant relics won 1996's European Museum of the Year award and it is easy to see why. The juxtaposition of religious and traditional crafts is so ingeniously displayed (with excellent English texts relating rural functional items to contemporary sculpture) that the exhibition is a work of art in itself. Handmade rugs, pottery, tools and painted eggs rub shoulders with rosaries, icons and woodcuts, while the intimate style of a fairly recent peasant kitchen and school room celebrates the aesthetics of simplicity. Upstairs, a group of mannequins in peasant costumes looks like they are about to wake up at any moment and march across the room. This museum is a gem for lovers of both folk and contemporary art and also has an excellent gift shop, which sells antique clothing and fabrics. Soseaua Kiseleff 3 Tel: (021) 317 9660. Website: www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro Admission charge. Muzeul Satului (Village Museum) A few dozen peasant homes, barns, churches and mills, representing vernacular rural architecture,

were transported from all over Romania, to a park on the west side of Herastrau Lake in north Bucharest. Built to show the pride of Romanian peasants in their work and homes, the open-air museum is recovering from past fires, with newly relocated homes and pieces - many from the 19th century - replacing fire-damaged ones. Among them are rustic wooden churches and tall-roofed Transylvanian houses with beautifully crafted shingles containing everyday accessories such as tools, butter-churns, hay forks, beer kegs and clothes. Soseaua Kiseleff 28-30 Tel: (021) 317 9103. Website: www.muzeul-satului.ro Admission charge. Muzeul National de Arta (National Art Museum) Although tragically vandalised and looted during the 1989 uprising, the museum (inside the one-time Royal Palace, built in 1812) has now been lovingly restored. The best of three separate collections, the Gallery of European Art is an absolute treasure, containing many rarely seen masterworks. Highlights include Von Eyck's Crucifixion and a Rembrandt, 16th and 17th-century Spanish works, including several El Grecos, Flemish art including a Rubens and four more rooms contain French sculpture and art up to the 20th century. Of the two other collections, the best is the Gallery of Romanian Art, which features works by the country's most famous painters, including Nicolae Grigorescu who often depicted Romanian peasants. The small third collection is the Treasures of Roman Art. Separate entry fees are paid for each, or a combined ticket for all three. This museum is a true feast and will only go on improving, as the 450 or so works damaged in 1989 are gradually restored. Calea Victoriei 49-53 Tel: (021) 314 8119 or 313 3030. Website: www.mnar.arts.ro Admission charge, guided tours in English and French. Zambaccian Museum The Armenian collector, Krikor Zambaccian, bequeathed his intimate collection of mostly impressionist paintings (including one of Constantin Brancusi's earliest sculptures) to the state, in 1946, along with his beautiful residence. The Romanian collection is small, but selective, with great works by some of the country's best-known masters. By the time you leave, names like Nicolae Grigorescu and Stefan Luchian seem slightly less foreign. The small collection of works by Picasso, Cezanne, Bonnard and Renoir is situated on the top floor. The museum is now part of the National Art Museum. Strada Muzeul Zambaccian 21A Tel: (021) 212 1920. Admission charge. Patriarhia Romana (Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral) Nearly obscured by 1970s housing blocks, this stunning 17th-century cathedral, situated on a small hill overlooking the grey communist-built Piata Unirii, is the Romanian Orthodox Church headquarters. A fabulous fresco of the blessed and the damned, ascending to heaven or tumbling into hell, adorns the entrance, as well as the oldest icon on the site, depicting patron saints Constantin and Helen (1665). Inside, expressive and beautifully painted icons, embedded in an exquisite gilded altarpiece, dazzle the eye in the sombre darkness. St Dumitru, Bucharest's patron saint, lies entombed in the left-hand corner and worshippers constantly climb the staircase to his shrine to pay their respects.

Strada Dealul Mitropoliei Tel: (021) 337 0830. Website: www.patriarhia.ro Free admission. Shopping The best shopping districts are Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul General Magheru, or on tiny Strada Ion Campineanu, off Valea Victoriei. Popular shopping centres are the new mega-mall Baneasa Shopping City, Soseaua Bucuresti-Ploiesti, and Bucuresti Mall, Calea Vitan 55-59, or central Unirea, Piata Unirii 1, a communist-era mall with a large supermarket. Carturesti, 13 Pictor Verona, is a classy bookstore/teashop with many Romanian books in English as well as CDs and DVDs of Romanian films. Another excellent central bookshop is Libraria Noi, Bulevardul Nocolae Balcescu 18, with a section filled with antiques. Folk crafts, such as embroidered clothing and linen, painted Easter eggs, carpets, pottery, woodcarvings and icons, make interesting purchases. These can be found at the Romanian Peasant Museum, most department stores and the Village Museum shop, where traditional clothing (men's felt coats and women's embroidered skirts and blouses) sits alongside Transylvanian ritual masks. The Lipscani area in the centre is a good place to wander through junk shops and antique shops, particularly at wee Strada Hanul ce Tei. There are also many art galleries along Calea Victoriei. Visitors interested in Romanian music should try the massive Muzica, Calea Victoriei 43, where there are CDs of folk singers like Maria Tanase, Romanian rock legends like Compact and Iris, or hip hop acts like La Familia, Paraziti and Bustaflex. Other special purchases are Dr Ana Aslan's anti-ageing products Gerovital and Aslavital (famous among old Hollywood film stars and available in most department stores) and Romanian wine from wineries in Transylvania, Moldavia and the Black Sea Coast. Kitsch, OK Dracula-label reds tend to be the ones that get exported, but many better ones are found here, including a sweet red Feteasca Negra, a sprarkling Feteasca Regalas and fulsome Cabernet Sauvignons and light Pinot Noirs - whites tend to be fruity but also excellent. Tuica, a sweet Romanian liquor made from plums, is also popular. There are a couple of weekend flea markets in Bucharest; the best is at Strada Mihai Bravu, on the east side of the city. Here bargain hunters can find everything, from old books to antiques, clothing and even used cars. Shops generally open Monday to Saturday 0900-1800, while bigger department stores tend to stay open to 2100 or 2200. Many shops close during the afternoon on Sundays. VAT currently stands at 19% in Romania and is included in all bills and transactions. Tax-free shopping is available for purchases over 250 Lei. To get tax back, visitors must fill out a form, available from most shops. BUDAPEST MINI GUIDE Only two decades ago Budapest was trapped in a communist-era time warp, but these days it is a city seriously going places. It has moved from an Eastern European backwater to the capital of a European Union member state, and once again crowds of Europeans are discovering the charms of a city that not only boasts beautiful architecture, but also offers visitors first rate attractions. Modern Budapest was born in 1873, when Buda, buda and Pest were officially joined. Today, the city is composed of 23 districts (kerletek), each designated on maps, street signs and addresses by Roman numerals (I

to XXIII). Buda and Pest still remain distinct, however, creating a fascinating west bank-east bank contrast. Hilly Buda in the west is laced with narrow cobbled streets and packed with a mixture of medieval and neoclassical buildings almost totally reconstructed after WWII. Flat Pest lies to the east, its wide boulevards and art nouveau structures testimony to the boom Budapest experienced in the years before WWI. In between are remnants of Turkish and Communist occupation, creating a crazy mosaic of mismatching styles. Despite its current contemporary outlook, the key to Budapest lies in its history, marked by alternate periods of great wealth and prosperity and devastating eras of political and social upheaval. The Magyars view their history not in black and white but in gold and silver. The first Golden Age coincided with the reign of Renaissance King Matys (1458-90). The second Golden Age was symbolised by the 1896 millennium celebration in City Park and the Silver Age was the 20th-century inter-war period, when the likes of Evelyn Waugh and the Prince of Wales frequented Budapest's spas and casinos. Balanced against the good times, however, there is the Turkish victory over the Hungarians in 1526 (with the ensuing rebuilding of Buda as a Turkish capital); the Hapsburg rule that continued to deprive Hungary of its autonomy until 1867; the devastation caused by WWII; and Russian control, only lifted in 1989. These significant events have turned the Hungarians into a flexible and resilient race, proud of their national heroes. Even though the young in this city of almost 2 million are eager to adopt Western European values, they still retain a deep relationship with Hungary's fascinating past and value the traditions and history of the Magyar people highly. This has made Budapest a wonderful mix of old and new, and the political, intellectual, commercial and cultural capital of Hungary. City Statistics Location: Budapest county, northern Hungary. Dialling code: 36. Population: 1,699,000 (city). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: -1C (30F). Average July temperatures: 22.5C (71F). Annual rainfall: 635mm (25 inches). Sightseeing The Chain Bridge (Szchenyi lnchd) is the central point of Budapest. From here, hilly Buda is to the west and the plains of commercial Pest are to the east. A steep climb in the Sikl, the 19th-century funicular, leads to Buda's Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where many attractions are clustered. Trinity Square is at the heart of the district and usually thronging with tourists. Nearby is the mosaic-roofed Matthias Church, fronted by King Stephen's statue and the fairytale Fishermen's Bastion, with the best views of Pest - particularly of the Houses of Parliament. First built by Bla III following the Mongol invasion in the 13th century, and reconstructed over the following centuries, the Buda Castle Palace now houses several museums. South of the Chain Bridge lies Gellrt Hill, named after Bishop Gellrt, who was (as legend has it) rolled off the hillside in a barrel for converting the Magyars to Christianity. At the summit are the Liberation Monument and Citadella, a Hapsburg fortress built to subdue the Magyars after the 1848-9 revolution. From here, Independence Bridge (Szabadsg hd) leads to Pest, which extends out from the Belvros (inner city). The busiest spots here are the shop-lined Vci utca and the square, Vrsmarty tr, marked by a statue of the poet, Mihly Vrsmarty (1800-1855), and the Gerbeaud ptisserie. The most grandiose monument in Pest, Hosk tr (Heroes' Square), is reached via Andrssy t, home to the Opera House and House of Terror. The

Museum of Fine Arts and Palace of Art border the monument and City Park is just behind it. Warm vapours rising from underground hot springs swirl up into the square, which is much favoured by teenage skateboarders. Moving closer to the River Danube lies the Dohny Synagogue, the second largest in Europe, as well as the small Jewish quarter (district VII). Further south is the Hungarian National Museum and Applied Arts Museum. Tourist Information Budapest Tourism Office 1056 Budapest Marcius 15 tr 7 Tel: (01) 266 0479. Website: www.budapestinfo.hu Opening hours: Daily 0800-2000.

IBUSZ tourist office, V Ferenciek tere 10 (website: www.ibusz.hu), open Monday to Friday 0900 to 1700 and Tourinform, St utca 2, (tel: (01) 438 8080; website: www.tourinform.hu), open daily 0800 to 2000 also provide tourist information.
The main information office of the Budapest Tourism Office is located in Liszt Ferenc tr 9-11 (tel: (01) 322 4098), open Monday to Friday 1000 to 1800 (October to May); daily 1000 to 1800 (June to September). Other offices can be found in the main hall of Nyugati station, at the airport, and the Castle District. Passes The Budapest Card (website: www.budapestinfo.hu) is simple to use and excellent value. It provides free travel on public transport, entrance to 60 museums and attractions (such as the Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest Zoo and the Museum of Fine Art), half-price city sightseeing programmes, reductions on cultural and folklore programmes and further discounts at spas, shops, restaurants, airport minibus and car hire services, sports facilities and flights. The card is valid for one adult and one child under 14 years for two or three days. You can buy the cards at tourist information offices, hotels and at main underground ticket booths. Budapest Tourism Office provides online details of the discounts available at each location. Key Attractions Szchenyi Lnchd (Chain Bridge) Nine bridges link Buda to Pest but the Chain Bridge is the first and most famous, with its solid arches and lion statues. Completed in 1848, the bridge was inaugurated in 1849, allowing for the integration of Buda, Pest and buda in 1872. After suffering considerable damage at the hands of the Nazis, the bridge was repaired and reinaugurated in 1949. 1 Clark dm tr Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Budavri Palota (Buda Royal Palace) King Bla IV laid the foundations of the Royal Palace in the 13th century but it had its heyday during King Mtys's reign (1458-90). In the late 18th century, Empress Maria Theresa rebuilt and enlarged the palace. The Royal Palace has survived many wars - the Turkish siege (1541) and invasion (1686), the 1848-49 War of Independence and the latter stages of WWII. Within the palace's partially reconstructed walls lies a vast museum complex which includes two museums, the Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum (Budapest History Museum) and Magyar Nemzeti Galria (Hungarian National Gallery), as well as the National Szchenyi Library.

The Budapest History Museum, in the southern part of the palace, traces the city's history from Buda's liberation from the Turks in 1686 to the 1970s. The Hungarian National Gallery is situated at the core of the palace. The encyclopaedic collection of Hungarian art from the 10th century to the present day portrays battles, both victorious and disastrous, romantic rural scenes and religious medieval altar paintings, providing a valuable insight into the Hungarian national identity. The National Library, established in 1802, overlooks the palace's Lion Courtyard and houses over 7 million works, mostly in Hungarian. Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum (Budapest History Museum) I Budavri Palota (Wing E), Szent Gyrgy tr 2 Tel: (01) 487 8800. Website: www.btm.hu Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (mid Mar-mid Sep); Wed-Mon 1000-1800 (mid Sep-Oct); Wed-Mon 1000-1600 (Nov-mid Mar). Admission charge. Magyar Nemzeti Galria (Hungarian National Gallery) I Budavri Palota (Wings B, C, D), Szent Gyorgy ter 2 Tel: (01) 439 7325. Website: www.mng.hu Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. National Szchenyi Library I Budavri Palota (Wing F), Dsz tr or Palota utca Tel: (01) 224 3700. Website: www.oszk.hu Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-2000. Free admission; charge for special exhibitions. Mtys Templom (Matthias Church) The Zsolnay pyrogranite tiles of Matthias Church are as colourful and richly patterned as snakeskin. Inside is a melange of styles from the 13th to the 19th centuries. It is thought that a church was first built on this site in 1015, by King Istvn. When the Turks occupied the Castle District in 1541, the church was turned into a mosque and the walls painted with extracts from the Koran. In the 20th century, the church was used as a kitchen by occupying German forces, and later as stables by the Russians. Mass takes place on Sunday at 1000, when it is free to enter the church. There are frequent concerts throughout the year. I Szenthromsg tr 2 Tel: (01) 355 5657. Website: www.matyas-templom.hu Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300, Sun 1300-1700. Admission charge. Fishermen's Bastion Behind the sanctuary of the Matthias Church, the Fishermen's Bastion offers a splendid view of the Danube and Pest. At the end of the 19th century, Frigyes Schulek designed a graceful system of stairs running from the Danube to the hilltop, and the current structure, which has been embellished with turrets, scrolls, arcades, curved stairs and statues, was intended to be the end point. Schulek imagined the bastion section defended by the fishermen's guild, hence the name. Many felt his vision was of a more austere, defensible and less decorated piece of architecture, but his original plans were later altered to the delight of today's visitors. I Szenthromsg tr Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.

Free admission. Hotel Gellrt and Thermal Baths Many regard the thermal baths attached to Hotel Gellrt as the finest in the city. A bathhouse has stood on the site since the 1500s, when its waters were valued for their medicinal qualities by the Turks, but the current art nouveau building dates from the turn of last century. Bathing in its soothing waters, surrounded by flower motifs, columns, and delicate wall designs, is one of Budapest's highlights, but even if you're not up for a dip, stop by to drink in the glorious foyer. A huge array of treatments and massages are offered, so read the display board carefully before approaching the normally grumpy staff. XI Szent Gellrt tr 2-6 Tel: (01) 889 5500. Website: www.danubiusgroup.com/danubius/gellert Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0600-1900, Sat and Sun 0600-1700. Admission charge. Orszghz (Parliament) Imre Steindl's design for Budapest's parliament, inspired by London's Houses of Parliament, won first prize in a competition to celebrate the 1,000th year of the Hungarian nation. Work commenced in 1885 and was finally completed in 1902. The edifice, with its elegant neo-Renaissance dome, topped by a pointy neo-gothic spire, stretches for over 250m (820ft) along the River Danube. It was here that the crowds assembled on 23 October 1989, when Mtys Szurs declared the Hungarian People's Republic from the balcony on Kossuth Lajos tr. V Kossuth Lajos tr 1-3 Tel: (01) 441 4904. Website: www.mkogy.hu Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0800-1600, Sun 0800-1400. Guided tours in English 1000, 1200, 1400. Admission charge. Szent Istvn Bazilika (St Stephen's Basilica) St Stephen's Basilica, Budapest's largest church, was designed by Jzsef Hild and begun in 1851, although not consecrated until 1905. A storm destroyed the original dome in 1868 and much of the building required rebuilding. The Basilica also suffered damage during WWII. The building seats 8,500 and is currently undergoing restoration, which began in 1980 and is set to continue for the foreseeable future. Inside, Gyula Benczr's painting of Szent Istvn offering the Hungarian crown to the Virgin Mary symbolises the alliance between Hungary and Western Europe. The basilica's tower offers excellent views of the city. V Szent Istvn tr 1 Tel: (01) 403 5370. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat 0900-1300, Sun 1300-1700. Opening times for Stzent Jobb Chapel and for the cupola vary, phone ahead. Tower: daily 1000-1800. Free admission; charge for the tower. Dohny Zsinagga (Central Synagogue) Europe's largest synagogue (and the world's second largest) was designed by Lajos Fster, in a ByzantineMoorish style, and completed in 1859. Desecrated by German and Hungarian Nazis, its two Moorish domes gleam afresh after a 10-year restoration project financed by the Hungarian government and Tony Curtis' Emmanuel Foundation. Some 724,000 Hungarian Jews were murdered in the Holocaust and their lives are remembered in the Jewish History Museum, annexed to the synagogue, and at Imre Varga's memorial to the side of the synagogue. VII Dohny utca 2 Tel: (01) 342 8949.

Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1700, Fri 1000-1400 (mid Apr-Oct); Sun-Thurs 1000-1500, Fri 1000-1400 (Novmid Apr); closed Jewish holidays. Admission charge. Jewish Museum VII Dohny utca 2 Tel: (01) 342 8949. Opening hours: Same hours as synagogue. Admission charge. Hs k Tere (Heroes' Square) and Millenniumi Emlkm (Millennium Monument) Heroes' Square was built in 1896, to celebrate the millennial anniversary of the Magyar conquest. Here, the Archangel Gabriel, at the top of a 36m (118ft) column (winner of the Grand Prix at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900), is half-encircled by statues of the seven victorious Magyar tribal chiefs on horseback and Hungary's most honoured rulers, from King Stephen to Kossuth. VI Andrssy t, corner of Dzsa Dyrgy utca Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission. Shopping Pest's chic Vci utca and its surrounding avenues tempt tourists with familiar high-street and designer names but bargain buys are to be found at Nagy Vsrcsarnok (Great Market Hall), IX Fovm tr, an imposing three-storey structure that first opened in 1897 and now draws 30,000 shoppers daily. On the ground floor are strings of paprika-like red coral necklaces, pots of pickles, goose liver and salami. There is also a supermarket to stock up on Tokaj wines, Plinka (cherry and apricot brandy) and bitter, black Zwack unicum (herbal liqueur). Upstairs, there is a choice of Kalocsa and Maty hand-embroidered tablecloths, Zsolnay and Herendi porcelain, glittering beaded necklaces and traditional folk costumes. The Great Market Hall is open Monday 0600-1700, Tuesday to Friday 0600-1800 and Saturday 0600-1400 (closed Sunday). Budapest's BV stores, the main branch of which is found at V Bcsi utca 1, are state-run pawn shops selling everything from junk to gems. Porcelain lovers should hunt down Zsolany, V Kigy utca 4, or Herend, I Szenthromsg utca 5 - both produce some of the finest pieces in Europe. Standard shop opening hours are Monday to Friday 1000-1800 and Saturday 1000-1300. Department stores usually open from 1000, while grocers, bakeries and supermarkets are open 0700-2000. Many shops open until 2000 or 2100 on Thursdays. Shops are closed on Sundays, except shopping malls. Each district has at least one 24-hour store. Many small shops close for summer in late July and August and almost everything shuts on public holidays. Sales tax (FA) of 25% (12% for food, some medical supplies, books and newspapers and hotel rooms) is included in the price and can be reclaimed by visitors purchasing goods worth Ft50,000 or more.

FLORENCE MINI GUIDE A visit to Florence (Firenze) is a must for any art lover. UNESCO estimates that 60% of the world's most important artworks are in Italy, with over half of those located in Florence.

Situated in the northwest of Italy, surrounded by the wine-growing hills of Chianti, the city attracts rapture and frustration in equal proportions. Few can dismiss the image of Brunelleschi's cathedral dome bursting through the morning mist - a terracotta balloon hovering above the medieval rooftops. But once the visitor drops down to street level, the profusion of traffic, tourists and touts can remove all sense of tranquillity. It seems every building holds a masterpiece, demanding attention and often gobbling up funds. The streets are narrow and dark, enclosed on either side by granite palaces and even the open spaces are crowded with babbling tour groups. Often called the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence owes much of her wealth to the Middle Ages. Banking became big business on the back of the city's profitable wool trade and, in 1235, Florence minted the florin, the first gold coin to become standard currency across Europe. In their turn, these bankers commissioned some of the finest art and architecture in the city. The names Strozzi, Rucellai and Pitti can be found all over Florence, but it was the Medici family (who led the city for over 300 years, off and on) that nurtured the greatest flowering of Renaissance art. The paintings of Botticelli, the sculptures of Michelangelo and the palaces of Michelozzo all flourished under their rule. Then, as now, most of the action in Florence took place between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, the city's civic heart. Here, in the historic centre, Dante (acknowledged father of the Italian language) first glimpsed his muse, Beatrice. Here, the Florentine Republic rose and fell. And here, Savonarola's Bonfire of the Vanities blazed. Florence, for all her timeless charm, is no stranger to destruction. In 1944, all her bridges, save the Ponte Vecchio, were destroyed by the Nazis, in an attempt to stall the advance of the allies. In 1966, the banks of the River Arno burst, flooding the city with her muddied waters and devastating homes and artworks. Most recently, in 1993, a bomb exploded near the Uffizi Gallery, ripping through the museum's interior and claiming several lives. That said, the only violence most tourists are likely to witness is during the medieval football match on 24 June (Florence's patron saint day) when petty wrangles often spill onto the pitch. It is best for visitors to avoid the peak summer months of July and August, when the weather can be unbearably sticky and the prospect of trailing around museums becomes unappealing. Early autumn, when the countryside glows with mellow fruitfulness, is the best time to visit, avoiding the heat and the queues and capitalising on the soft light, empty streets and the abundance of wild mushrooms and just-pressed olive oil. City Statistics Location: Tuscany, northwest Italy. Dialling code: 39. Population: 493,000 (city); 750,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).

Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs or three-pin plugs are in use. Average January temperatures: 5C (41F). Average July temperatures: 35C (95F). Annual rainfall: 640mm (25 inches). Sightseeing Most visitors are overwhelmed by the artistic minefield of Florence - they spend their holiday dashing from one masterpiece to the next, with their nose stuck in a guidebook and their eyes glued to a video camera, dazzled by an excess of genius. The cultural heritage of Florence cannot be ignored. Cradle of the Renaissance and home of the Medici family (Italy's most progressive art patrons) it houses some of the world's greatest treasures. The River Arno meanders through the city, with the Duomo situated on the north bank. The Piazza della Signoria, once the hub of Florence's political machinations, remains a central reference point for visitors and citizens alike. Visitors can linger over a coffee in one of the square's gilded cafs and admire the powerful hulk of Michelangelo's David (a copy) guarding the city's Palazzo Vecchio, Florence's town hall since 1322. An array of sculptures, including Cellini's Perseus brandishing the head of Medusa and Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Women, stand under the square's loggia - an impressive overspill from the nearby Uffizi Gallery. Passing tourists admire the rusticated palazzi that line the square, their solid style underscored by a light Renaissance touch, whose origins can be found in the family palaces of the Strozzi and Rucellai repeated all over Florence. The square's landmark crenellated tower, the Torre d'Arnolfo, can be seen best from Piazzale Michelangelo (a balcony over Florence with spectacular views of terracotta roofs, the River Arno and Brunelleschi's portly dome) all backed by the rolling hills of Chianti. It is the sight of a thousand picture postcards and Merchant Ivory film shots, but it never fails to take your breath away. Tourist Information Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT) Via Cavour 1r Tel: (055) 290 832. Website: www.firenzeturismo.it Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1830 and Sun 0830-1300. Other branches are located outside the central station, at the airport, at Via Manzoni 16 and in Borgo Santa Croce, near the church. Passes There are special tickets available at some museums, which allow the holder a discount on the entrance price of other participating attractions. Special passes for the Palazzo Pitti (including the Galleria Palatina, Galleria d'Arte Moderna, Galleria del Costume, Museo degli Argenti, Museo delle Porcellane and Giardino di Boboli) are valid for three days. Tourists can also purchase an Accademia-Opificio ticket, which gives entry to the Galleria dell'Accademia and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure. It is also valid for three days (but does not apply during exhibitions). The passes are available for purchase at participating venues. Given the queues, visitors to Florence should perhaps consider booking tickets in advance (tel: (055) 294 883).

There is a surcharge for reserved tickets for the state museums. Key Attractions Galleria degli Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery) The most important art collection in Italy and one of the richest in the world is usually heralded by the burr of foreign tongues from the queues of tourists that snake across the courtyard. Located in Vasari's majestic Uffizi Palace, the Uffizi Gallery houses the Medici art collection bequeathed to Florence in 1737, on the condition that it never leaves the city. The impressive rsum of Italian and in particular Florentine art is arranged to illustrate how evolving techniques and ideas influenced the artists. The huge collection is really too big to tackle at a single sitting. Visitors with limited time may wish to ensure that they see some of the city's biggest draws - Botticelli's mythological masterpieces, The Birth of Venus and Primavera (Spring) and Leonardo Da Vinci's Annunciation. At present, early rooms concentrate on medieval art with a particular bent towards the Sienese school, exemplified by Duccio, Martini and Giotto. The latter end of the gallery features work from the Umbrian and Venetian schools, including Titian, Tintoretto and Raphael. However the gallery is gradually being restored and the layout may change. Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 Tel: (055) 238 8651 or 294 883 (to book tickets in advance). Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/uffizi Opening hours: Tues-Sun 08.15-18.50 (last entry 1800). Admission charge. Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) Brunelleschi's gravity-defying dome dominates the Florence skyline and defines the city. The double-skinned dome that sits atop the city's rose-coloured Duomo (cathedral) was an architectural breakthrough, since Brunelleschi invented an entirely new way of counteracting the weight of the dome, thus building the largest self-supporting dome since classical times. The cathedral you see today (built under the proviso that it be the largest house of worship in Christendom, a feat eventually claimed by St Peter's Cathedral in Rome) took 170 years to complete. Its original faade was pulled down on the orders of Ferdinand I in 1587. The Duomo remained faceless for nearly 300 years, until 1887. Described by Ruskin as a Chinese puzzle', the lavish pink, white and green marble frontage belies a cavernous interior that is surprisingly free from decoration. Once inside, most people look heavenward, pausing to admire Giorgio Vasari's recently restored frescoes in the cupola, before climbing the 463 steps for a spectacular view over the city. Tall, slender and straight-backed, the Campanile (bell tower) is the graceful sidekick to Brunelleschi's stout Duomo. Built according to Giotto's designs, in 1334, the Campanile was completed after its creator's death, by Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti. The tower is decorated with two garlands of bas-reliefs, strung around its rose-tinted faade. Higher up, sculptures of the Prophets and Sybils, carved by Donatello, look down upon the city below. The original pieces are now in the Grande Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum). Visitors can climb the 414 steps of the Campanile, for the rewarding views over the piazza, which afford a closer inspection of the Duomo and Brunelleschi's rusty crown, once described by the architect Alberti as large enough to shelter all the people of Tuscany in its shadow.' The adjacent Baptistery completes the trio. This provided the inspiration for both the

Campanile and Duomo faades. Originally believed to be a pagan temple, the octagonal building is the oldest in Florence. It is famous for its gilded bronze doors, particularly those on the east side, dubbed the Gates of Paradise. Executed by Lorenzo Ghiberti (with the greatest diligence and the greatest love') over a period of 27 years, each of the 10 bronze bas-reliefs tells a story from the Old Testament, with astonishing realism and compassion. Nowadays, most are copies, the originals having been moved to the Cathedral Museum for restoration and safekeeping. Ghiberti, the most self-satisfied of artists, preserved his own balding image in the frame of the door, fourth in from the lefthand side. Piazza del Duomo Tel: (055) 215 380. Website: www.duomofirenze.it

Duomo (Cathedral) Opening hours: Mon-Wed and Fri 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-1530, Sat 1000-1645 (first Sat each month 1000-1530), Sun 1330-1645 (last entry 40 minutes before closing). Free admission. Cupola (Dome) Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1900, Sat 0830-1740 (first Sat each month 0830-1600) (last entry 40 minutes before closing). Closed Easter, 24 June, 15 Aug, 8 Sep, 1 Nov. Admission charge. Grande Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum) Piazza del Duomo 9 Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1930, Sun 0900-1400 (last entry 40 minutes before closing). Admission charge. Campanile (Bell Tower) Opening hours: Daily 0830-1930 (last entry 40 minutes before closing). Closed Easter Sun and 8 Sep. Admission charge. Baptistery Piazza di San Giovanni Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1200-1900 and Sun and holidays 0830-1400. (last entry 30 minutes before closing). Closed Easter Sun, 8 Sep. Admission charge.
Galleria dell'Accademia (Accademia Gallery) While Florence offers a panoply of artworks, most people associate the city with just one masterpiece - Michelangelo's David. The huge statue occupies pride of place in the city's Accademia Gallery, dwarfing the multitude of chattering tourists who stand in awe before him. The statue was carved from a single block of marble in 1502, when the artist was just 29 years old. Its exaggerated size and musculature is a symbol of the new-born Republic that briefly cast out the Medici - the city's Goliath'. Also in the gallery are Michelangelo's unfinished Slaves, which stand captive in blocks of marble, from which their forms seem to struggle to escape. Via Ricasoli 60 Tel: (055) 238 8609/12. Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/musei/accademia

Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1850 (last entry 45 minutes before closing). Admission charge. Ponte Vecchio (Vecchio Bridge) Even the dogs of war could not bring themselves to destroy the Ponte Vecchio - the only bridge to survive the Nazi bombing of Florence during WWII. Nowadays, the famous 14th-century bridge is literally lined with gold (home to Florence's gold and silversmiths) and is a prime shopping trap for the city's affluent tourists. It was Cosimo de Medici who first created the mood for change, when he ordered the previous occupants (a motley crew of butchers, accustomed to throwing their bloody leftovers into the River Arno) to make room for a more genteel trade. High above the shops, a secret passageway known as the Corrodoio Vasariano links the Uffizi Gallery to the Pitti Palace. Built by Vasari, it was intended to shield the powerful Medici family from the Florentine riffraff, as they journeyed from one palace to the other. Lined with portraits of the city's greatest artists, the passage reopened to the public in 1997, although opening times are erratic due to staffing problems. Visits can sometimes be booked on special request, and the corridor often opens for a short period in summer (tel: (055) 294 883 or 238 8651). Between Via de Guicciardini and Via Por Santa Maria Opening hours: On special request (Corrodoio Vasariano). Admission charge. Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Bargello National Museum) The grim faade of the Palazzo del Bargello, formerly the city's jail and torture chamber, is a daunting introduction to Tuscany's most impressive collection of Renaissance sculpture. Masterpieces by Cellini, Donatello and Michelangelo are arranged over three floors and overflow into the Palace's handsome courtyard, where many a Florentine lost his head. Donatello captures the spirit of the early Renaissance best, with his sensual David and his watchful St George, who once graced the faade of Orsanmichele. Cellini's exquisite bronze statuary outshines the somewhat staid Michelangelo on display, while Giambologna's Mercury should not be missed. Two bronze panels by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi, depicting the Sacrifice of Isaac, provide a compelling comparison. Both artists entered the panels in a competition to win the commission to cast the north doors of the Baptistery. Both won, although Brunelleschi refused to work in partnership with Ghiberti and instead went on to construct the cathedral dome - a veritable artistic snub. Via del Proconsolo 4 Tel: (055) 238 8606. Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/musei/bargello Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0815-1350, last entry 1320; open on the second and fourth Sun of each month and on the first, third and fifth Mon of each month. Admission charge. Santa Croce The elegant Franciscan church of Santa Croce has tended to overwhelm the visitor and is held responsible for the little known disease, Stendhal's Condition. When the French writer, Stendhal, visited the church, he suffered a fainting fit brought on by its beauty and apparently this continues to afflict up to 12 visitors a year. Lord Byron reported himself drunk with Beauty' at the sight of the church, which is attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, the architect responsible for the Duomo. Its broad piazza, once the site of jousts, wild animal fights and the burning of heretics, is today home to miniature Davids and plaster cast Virgins, as souvenir stalls ply their trade to visitors weakened by stendhalismo. The big draw inside the gothic interior is death. Some of Italy's most

gifted men are buried here, including Michelangelo (whose body was smuggled out of Rome in a packing case), Machiavelli, Galileo, Rossini and Ghiberti. Dante's tomb lies empty - the forefather of Italian literature died in Ravenna and the city refused to return his corpse, in spite of Florentine pleas. A series of colourful chapels, their frescoes commissioned by wealthy bankers, lift the gloom. Those in the Bardi Chapel are considered some of Giotto's best. Outside, in the tranquil cloisters, stands a Renaissance gem, the Pazzi Chapel, designed by Brunelleschi in 1430. The pure geometric design is an indication of the renewed influence of classicism over gothic forms. Piazza Santa Croce Tel: (055) 246 6105. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1730, Sun 1300-1730 (last entry 1700). Admission charge (combined ticket with Museum Santa Croce). Santa Maria Novella The zebra-striped faade of Santa Maria Novella, completed by Leon Battista Alberti in 1470, is the starting point of many a tour of Florence. Situated near the city's train station, to which it lends its name, the graceful scrolls, gothic arches and classical pediments combine to form one of Florence's most dramatic faades. Alongside Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella (home to the Dominican order) was the most important church in the city. A fresco cycle by the city's top social painter, Ghirlandaio, depicting the lives of the Virgin Mary and St John the Baptist, is peopled with Florentine society. But the highlight of the lofty interior is Masaccio's Trinity (1427), a fresco displaying outstanding use of perspective, which marked a breakthrough in Renaissance painting. Miraculously, the flat wall becomes a recessed vault bearing the crucified figure of Christ. Behind him, deep within Masaccio's coffered chapel, God demands the viewer to acknowledge his sacrifice. Piazza Santa Maria Novella Tel: (055) 282 187. Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0930-1700, Sat 0900-1400 (last entry 30 minutes before closing). Admission charge. Museo di San Marco (San Marco Museum) Rebuilt at the behest of Cosimo de Medici, this Dominican convent was home to Fra Angelico, as well as the fanatical Girolamo Savonarola. The mad monk' famously preached damnation upon the Florentines and exhorted them to burn their books and paintings on the Bonfire of the Vanities. Savonarola is depicted in a haunting portrait in the Corsini Gallery, himself being burned at the stake in Piazza della Signoria. More important are the works of Fra Angelico, a gentle and devout monk whose luminous frescoes, painted as a focal point for the monks' meditations, adorn each of the preserved monk's cells. The deep religious conviction inherent within each fresco is emphasised by the stark simplicity of their setting. At the head of the stairs lies the most powerful of them all, The Annunciation, a striking representation of the young Mary's fear and astonishment as she learns she is to be the Mother of Christ. Piazza San Marco 3 Tel: (055) 238 8608. Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/musei/sanmarco Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0815-1350, Sat 0815-1900; second and fourth Sun of each month 0815-1900; first, third and fifth Mon of each month 0815-1350 (last entry 30 minutes before closing).

Admission charge. Cappella Brancacci (Brancacci Chapel) The area on the other side of the river, known as Oltrarno, was not even a part of Florence until the city walls expanded in the 12th century, to encompass it. Even today, Oltrarno has a character of its own. The slower pace of life is accompanied by less showy buildings and fewer tourists, rewarding the adventurous with a taste of everyday life in Florence. The reason most visitors make the trek across the river, however, is to see the famous Brancacci Chapel, which is situated inside the church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Miraculously salvaged from a fire in the 18th century, the chapel is home to frescoes by Masaccio, his pupil Masolino and Filippino Lippi. Masaccio's crisp retelling of The Tribute Money, set against the background of Renaissance Florence, is snappily executed with bright colours and comic asides, in sharp contrast to his mournful Expulsion from Paradise. Both the Paradise fresco and Masolino's Temptation of Adam and Eve were propelled into the public eye in the late 1980s, when they underwent restoration to remove the bogus foliage, added on by prudish Victorians, to cover up the genitalia. Visits to the chapel are restricted to 15 minutes. Piazza del Carmine Tel: (055) 238 2195 or 276 8224. Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1300-1700. Reservation required. Last entry 30 minutes before closing. Admission charge. Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels) The stunning Medici Chapels were built by the powerful Medici family, to serve as their mausoleums and were intended to reflect the immense wealth and influence of this mighty family. The Chapel of the Princes is decorated with semi-precious stones and dotted with works of art, while the New Sacresty was designed by Michelangelo. Entering the chapels is rather like stepping into a large box of jewellery. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini 6 Tel: (055) 238 8602. Website: www.polomuseale.firenze.it/cappellemedicee Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0815-1350; also second and fourth Mon of each month 08151350; first, third and fifth Sun of each month 0815-1350. Last entry 30 minutes before closing. Admission charge. Shopping Second only to culture in the city comes shopping. Florence has been a centre of craftsmanship since the Middle Ages, when shoemakers and goldsmiths were accorded the same status as artists and sculptors. Today, the city remains famous for its highquality leather produce, goldsmiths and marbled paper. Artisans are still seen plying their trade in workshops all over the city. The area around Santa Croce is home to the city's leather-makers, while the Oltrarno is cluttered with the workshops of local gold and silversmiths - although the Ponte Vecchio is home to the glitzier of such shops. Designer boutiques cluster around the Via de' Tornabuoni and Via Calzaiuoli, where Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci, Max Mara and Prada all have stores. Other stores here are Locman, for watches, Tod's and Hogan for shoes and handbags, and Fani for jewellery.

Fashion aficionados should also visit Via della Vigna Nuova where Dolce e Gabbana and Mont Blanc are located, and Piazza degli Strozzi for Louis Vuitton and Escada. The more frugal can find copies in the open-air San Lorenzo Market, in Piazza San Lorenzo, northwest of the Duomo, which takes place every day, except for Mondays in winter. Leather belts and bags, silk scarves and soft wool jerseys can be picked up for a song - although it is advisable for shoppers to check the quality before buying. Nearby stands the covered food market, which is open Monday to Saturday 0700-1400. Bursting with olives, hams, cheeses and fresh vegetables, it is the perfect place to buy a picnic or just indulge a love of grub. The flea market at Piazza dei Ciompi specialises in antiques and collectable junk and provides an enjoyable rummage for the bargainhunter. It is open every day 0900-1930 except for Sundays and Mondays in winter. Specialist shops worth a visit include the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via Scala 16. Housed in a frescoed chapel, this old-fashioned chemist was founded by monks in the 17th century. Lotions, potions and herbal remedies abound in elegant packaging. More fascinating old remedies are at Alessandro Bizzarri, Via Condotta 32r, a 19th-century shop with ancient bottles filled with herbs, oils, spices and old Florentine remedies. Handmade shoes created in time-honoured tradition are available for purchase at Francesco, Via Santo Spirito 62r, while Pineider, Piazza della Signoria 13r, is considered the most exclusive stationers in all Italy, having designed calling cards for Napoleon, Byron and Maria Callas, among others. As a general rule, shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-1930 or 2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Food shops are usually closed on Wednesday afternoons, or Saturday afternoons in the summer. Clothes shops are often closed on Monday mornings. There is limited opening on Sunday. Sales tax is 12 to 14%. It can rise to 20%, depending on the value of goods purchased. Non-EU citizens should retain receipts for goods over 155 (bought in one shop, in one day) to reclaim their VAT (IVA).

FRANKFURT MINI GUIDE The fifth biggest city in Germany, Frankfurt on Main (Frankfurt am Main), has gained enormous economic power thanks to its position as a key transport hub and its status as a major venue for international trade fairs. Located in the middle of the highly productive Rhine-Main region, right at the centre of Europe, the city is the financial heart of Germany but also of the European Union. A settlement since at least 3000BC, Frankfurt's long history of commerce stems from its central geographical location on the Main River and the Frankfurt Messe (fair). The Messe has been going since the 12th century (it is mentioned in a Jewish manuscript dating from 1160) and the city received its official Imperial privilege to hold an annual trade fair in 1240. The Frankfurt Brse (Stock Exchange) began trading in 1585. If Frankfurt's political aspirations were dashed by the choice of Bonn as capital of the Federal Republic in 1949, the city has directed its post-war energies all the more wholeheartedly into its uncontested financial role. The modern skyscrapers of banks and corporations in the central business district are potent symbols of Frankfurt's economic strength and create a skyline that is more North American than European. Most of Frankfurt's visitors come for one of the numerous trade fairs, exhibitions and congresses. But Frankfurt has got another side. As the birthplace of Germany's most revered writer, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), the city is at pains to impress with its cultural pedigree. Excellent museums, high-calibre performance groups and local festivals tempt too. The city's climate is generally mild and well balanced with warm, occasionally wet, days in summer, with temperatures sometimes reaching 30C (90F) and more, and chilly winter days, when temperatures range between -10C (14F) and 10C (40F). City Statistics Location: Hessen, central Germany. Dialling code: 49. Population: 676,197 (city); 5.7 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 1C (34F). Average July temperatures: 19C (66F). Annual rainfall: 670mm (26 inches). Sightseeing Skyscrapers housing major financial institutions dominate the scene in the central business district. The Westend is both a residential and business district. Nearby, the Marktplatz (former Market Square), Rmer (City Hall), the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral), Paulskirche (Church of St Paul) and the Nikolaikirche (Nicholas Church) are among the attractions of the Altstadt (Old Town). The Bahnhofsviertel (around the main railway station), especially Kaiserstrasse, is the city's red light district, although the ubiquitous seediness has developed into a popular and lively entertainment scene. Fourteen museums make up the longest mile of museums in Europe - the Museumsufer (Museum Embankment) on the southern bank of the Main, reached on foot via Eiserner Steg. Most of Frankfurt's museums are closed on Monday and open until 2000 on Wednesday.

Sachsenhausen, the oldest district in Frankfurt, lies on the south side of the river, and is one of the traditional entertainment areas with bars, clubs and restaurants housed in traditional buildings. The best views of the city can be gained from the observation platform of the Main Tower. Students and artists contribute to the bohemian atmosphere of the Nordend around Eschenheimer Tor. Tourist Information Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main Hauptbahnhof Tel: (069) 2123 8800. Website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2100, Sat and Sun 0900-1800. A second tourist information centre is located at Rmerberg 27. Passes The Frankfurt Card, available as a one- or two-day ticket, group or individual, offers free travel on all RMV transport within the city and to the airport, as well as a 25% reduction on guided city tours, 50% reduction on admission to major attractions and 21 museums, and a 20% reduction on the Kln-Dsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt Rhine and Mosel river tours and a free city map. The card is available from tourist information offices (tel: (069) 2123 8703), the DB Reisezentrum at the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), and at the Frankfurt airport hotel reservations desk in terminal one. It can also be booked online via the tourist information website (see above). Key Attractions Rmerberg In 1240, this low hill (the main square and heart of the Old Town) was the site of the city's first official trade fair. The Rmerberg is bordered by half-timbered houses (Fachwerkhuser), reconstructed after total destruction in 1945, and the former court chapel - the Nikolaikirche (Church of St Nicholas). The main attraction, however, is the Rathaus Rmer (Frankfurt's city hall since 1405) with its gothic stepped gables made of Frankfurt's trademark red sandstone. The coronation of German emperors was celebrated by banquets in the Kaisersaal (Emperor's Hall) on the upper floors. Portraits of 52 emperors, from Charlemagne to Franz II, now hang on the walls. It is a working town hall, however, and there are currently no tours. The Christmas market that takes place on Rmerberg every December is one of the best in Germany, and has taken place here since the late 14th century. Rmerberg, Rmer Sankt Bartholomusdom (Cathedral of St Bartholomew) Between 1562 and 1792, German emperors were crowned in the Cathedral of St Bartholomew, hence its other name - the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral). In the 1950s, this was Frankfurt's tallest building, at 96m (315ft), which illustrates just how much the city has developed since then. The cathedral has a red sandstone facade and interior and is one of Frankfurt's most recognisable landmarks. The present structure was rebuilt after WWII but contains a number of original carvings. There are also great views of the city from the tower. A museum, the Dommuseum, is attached to the cathedral and is packed full of ancient archaeological findings. Domplatz 14 Tel: (069) 297 0320. Website: www.dom-frankfurt.de Opening hours: Mon-Thurs and Sat 0900-1200 and 1430-1800, Fri and Sun 1430-1800, until 1700 in winter (cathedral); Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat-Sun 1100-1700 (museum).

Free admission to the cathedral; charge for the museum. Stdelsche Kunstinstitute und Stdtische Galerie (Stdel Art Institute and Municipal Gallery) An exemplary and comprehensive collection of European painting from the 14th to the 20th centuries is housed in this museum (commonly known as just Stdel) on Frankfurt's legendary Museumsufer (Museum Embankment). German masters, such as Cranach, Holbein and Beckmann, are displayed alongside the likes of Botticelli, Rembrandt and Rubens. Around 500 sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries are also on show, including works from artists such as Rodin, Kirchner and Picasso. There is also a cafe, and an excellent bookshop. Ambitious plans are currently afoot to extend the gallery with 3,000sq m of extra exhibition space, whose focus will be on post-1945 art. Schaumainkai 63 Tel: (069) 605 0980. Website: www.staedelmuseum.de Opening hours: Tues, Fri-Sun 1000-1800, Wed and Thurs 1000-2100. Admission charge. Museum fr Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art) The outside of the Museum of Modern Art alone would count as one of the city's major attractions. It is therefore a bonus that this museum, designed by Viennese architect Hans Hollein, is filled with a superb collection of post-war art, predominantly by German and American artists, including Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Andy Warhol and Joseph Beuys. There is also a cafe-restaurant. Domstrasse 10 Tel: (069) 2123 0447. Website: www.mmk-frankfurt.de Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sun 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2000. Admission charge. Frankfurt Zoo Frankfurt's zoo is one of the most attractive in Europe and is very popular with both locals and visitors. It celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2008 and is Germany's second oldest after Berlin. There are 13 different areas in these 14 hectares (35 acres) of land, where thousands of animals from all over the world, including eight endangered species, can be observed. The obvious highlight is the Grzimek Haus, where artificial darkness is created in order to observe nocturnal animals going about their business. Alfred-Brehm-Platz 16 Tel: (069) 2123 3735. Website: www.zoo-frankfurt.de Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (summer); daily 0900-1700 (winter). Admission charge. Palmengarten (Palm Garden) The Palm Garden is a wonderland of tropical plants and exotic birds. Hidden away from the bustle of the city centre, the attractions of this botanical garden include glasshouses, some 300 different palms and a boating lake. There are concerts staged here in summer, as well as a number of exhibitions and events. Free guided tours (in German) are available on Sundays. Siesmayerstrasse 63 Tel: (069) 2123 3939. Website: www.palmengarten-frankfurt.de

Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600 (Nov-Jan); daily 0900-1800 (Feb-Oct). Admission charge. Goethe-Museum and Goethe-Haus Completely destroyed by Allied bombers in 1944, the house where Goethe (1749-1832) was born and spent most of his youth was rebuilt after the war, in 1951, and restored to its former 18thcentury glory. Visitors can see the family music room, library, living room and Goethe's own puppet show and study. Next door, the Goethe-Museum displays German paintings and sculpture from the late baroque period up to early Romanticism. There are daily guided tours (in German) of the house at 1400 and 1600, and audio-visual guides are available to hire in several languages. Tours of the museum can also be arranged on request. Grosser Hirschgraben 23-25 Tel: (069) 138 800. Website: www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1000-1730. Admission charge. Shopping The pedestrian street, Zeil (from Hauptwache to Konstablerwache) is the city's major shopping street and is lined with well-known department stores, including the super-modern Zeilgalerie, Zeil 112-114 (www.zeilgalerie.com), with approximately 50 shops, a number of eateries, an aqua spa, and tremendous views from the roof terrace. Many shops along Zeil sell the typical local gift, the ebbelwei (apple wine) carafe, called bembel, which comes with matching glasses. International names can be found in the streets leading off the main thoroughfare. Goethestrasse is known for its exclusive designer clothing and jewellery boutiques. Oeder Weg and Berger Strasse offer just the opposite - small but interesting bargain and curiosity shops in which to rummage. The largest shopping centres are the Nordwest Zentrum, Walter-Mller-Platz 2, and Schillerpassage, Rahmhofstrasse 2. Others are the Hessen Centre, Borsigallee 26, the Neu-Isenburg-Zentrum, Hermesstrasse 4, and the Main-Taunus-Zentrum in Sulzbach. Antiques can be found in the streets around the cathedral. Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse has the best delicatessens, fish shops, markets and wine merchants in town and the Kleinmarkthalle on Hasengasse is full of international delicacies. For something unusual, Comica, Stiftstrasse, offers comics, graphic novels and related memorabilia. Out of the city centre, Leipziger Strasse in Bornheim has a range of idiosyncratic shops and Schweizer Strasse in Sachsenhausen is the home of some exclusive boutiques. A flea market is held every Saturday 0900-1400 on the Museumsufer (Schaumainkai), while an excellent produce market can be found on Saturday 0800-1700 and Thursday 1000-2000 on Konstablerwache Square. Large city-centre stores and supermarkets are open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday 0900-1600. Smaller shops close at 1830 on weekdays and on Saturday at 1400. All shops are closed on Sunday. VAT is currently at 19%. Travellers who live outside the European Union can obtain a tax refund on goods bought in Germany.

GENEVA MINI GUIDE Geneva has long been Switzerland's most cosmopolitan city. It sits at the southwestern end of Lac Lman (the country's largest lake), astride the River Rhne, with foreground hills rising against a magnificent backdrop of

mountains. The river bisects the city, with the north side as the right bank (Rive Droite) and the south as the left bank (Rive Gauche). The main railway station and the suburbs are to the north of the river and the Old Town to the south of the river. Geneva was settled since Neolithic times and became an imperial city in 1032, before achieving independence in 1530 and joining the Swiss Confederation in 1814. Its reputation for religious tolerance during the Reformation proved to be a major influence on its subsequent development. For centuries, exiles from religious or political persecution chose the city as their refuge, from 17th-century English regicides to Lenin in the early 20th century. John Calvin, the Protestant theologian, made his home here in the 1530s from where he led the Reformation in Switzerland. Switzerland's famed neutrality has long enticed international organisations to locate their headquarters in Geneva. There are currently around 200, raising the foreign community to 45% of the population. The League of Nations, predecessor of the United Nations, was established here in 1919. Although the UN moved to New York in 1945, Geneva has kept its European office here. Other important organisations include the International Committee of the Red Cross (founded by the Swiss Henri Dunant in 1863) and the World Health Organisation. The city is also a major banking centre (described by British actor Robert Morley as a city of wealth by stealth') and plays a significant role in the manufacture of watches, scientific instruments, jewellery and foodstuffs. Geneva is an expensive city, but clean, efficient and a pleasure to visit with its beautiful Old Town, fine museums and an excellent public transport system. The city enjoys a mild climate with relatively low rainfall. The super-rich community of international civil servants and tax exiles demand good food, top hotels and entertainment and Geneva provides it all. Beneath the stereotypical veneer of diamonds and watches, however, one finds a tolerant and safe society with the Genevois strangely similar to the British - reserved but courteous. City Statistics Location: Geneva canton, western Switzerland. Dialling code: 41. Population: 178,600 (city); 433,200 (canton). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; three-pin plugs are most commonly used. Average January temperatures: 2.6C (36F). Average July temperatures: 23C (74F). Annual rainfall: 1015mm (39.6 inches). Sightseeing Most of Geneva's attractions can be covered on foot, with the exception of Lake Geneva (Lac Lman). Motorboats, affectionately named mouettes (seagulls), crisscross the lake, providing excellent views of Geneva, as well as a close-up shot of the city emblem, the Jet d'Eau. The Old Town is dominated by the Cathdrale St-Pierre, situated next to the Auditoire, the church in which Calvin taught and John Knox preached and supervised the production of the Geneva Bible.

In the city centre, there is the Ile Rousseau, a little island in the River Rhne, off the Pont des Bergues, with a statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau and a superb view of the port of Geneva. Geneva is known as the City of Parks'. As well as the Jardin Anglais, the city centre boasts the Promenade des Bastions, below the Old Town walls, which contains the famous Reformation Wall and giant outdoor chess pieces. Many of the parks are situated on the shores of the lake. On the rive gauche (left bank) are the Eaux-Vives and La Grange - the latter contains the ruins of a Roman villa and fine rose garden, where the annual International Rose Competition is held. On the rive droite (right bank), Ariana Park surrounds the museum of that name and the Palais des Nations, while nearer to the lake is the Jardin Botanique. The central point of the River Rhne is marked by the ruins of a medieval fort, the Tour de l'Ile. Tourist Information Geneva Tourist Office Rue du Mont-Blanc 18 Tel: (022) 909 7000. Website: www.geneve-tourisme.ch Opening hours: Mon 1000-1800, Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (Closed Sun from Sep to mid Jun). Passes Two-thirds of the city's museums do not charge for admission. Private Museums do charge, but have issued a pass, valid for three months, which is available from the tourist office and participating museums, giving discounted entry. Key Attractions Cathdral de St Pierre (St Peter's Cathedral) Built between 1160 and 1289, St Peter's Cathedral is surprisingly small. Even more surprising is its combination of Romanesque, gothic, and neoclassical styles. The austerity of the main body of the church is wholly appropriate for a building in which John Calvin preached (1536-1564). However, the 15th-century Chapel of the Maccabees, restored in 1875, is a riot of gilded embellishment against blue and red grounds that recall the decoration of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch by William Burges. The neoclassical facade was added in 1750. Under the cathedral is one of Europe's largest underground archaeological sites with some good 14thcentury mosaics, while the top of the north tower offers fine views over the old town and lake. Cour St-Pierre Tel: (022) 311 7575. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1730, Sun 1200-1730 (Oct-May); Mon-Sat 0930-1830 and Sun 1200-1830 (JunSep). Free admission, charge for the tower. Jardin Anglais (English Garden) and Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) The English Garden, dating from 1854, is home to the Monument National, a statue of two young women - the 'Republic of Geneva' and 'Helvetia', symbolising Geneva's attachment to the Swiss Confederation on 12 September 1814. Within the park there is an elegant bronze fountain and L'Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) (decorated with over 6,300 plants) that was installed in 1955 to honour Geneva's watch-making industry. The clock measures 5m (16.4ft) in diameter and 17.7m (58ft) in circumference. Its second hand is the longest in the world at over 2.5m (8.2ft). Quai Gnral Guisan Opening hours: Daily 24 hours. Free admission.

Jet d'Eau (Water Fountain) The famed Water Fountain is the Eiffel Tower of Geneva, an impressive 140m (459ft) fountain that dominates the Geneva harbour and all modern depictions of the city. The Jet was originally the safety valve for the city's water supply and is Europe's tallest fountain. This water showpiece is illuminated at night, however, during the day, the fountain takes care of the special effects for itself - when the sun shines, a rainbow hovers behind the powerful jet of water, which spurts straight up into the sky at a speed of 200kph (125mph). Off Quai Gustave Ador (on the Rive Gauche) Operating hours: Hours are subject to weather conditions. Check with the tourist office. Closed for three weeks during November for maintenance. Free to view. Mur des Rformateurs (Reformation Wall) Construction of the 60ft (18m) Reformation Wall began in 1909, on the 400th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin. The monument is dedicated to the four figures central to the Reformation movement - John Calvin (1509-64), Thodore de Bze (1513-1605), John Knox (c1514-72) and Guillaume Farel (1489-65). Parc des Bastions Opening hours: Dawn to dusk. Free admission. Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens) Geneva's world-renowned Botanical Gardens were created by the botanist A P de Candolle, in the Parc des Bastions in 1817. Relocated to their present site in 1901, the 28-hectare (69-acre) gardens have greenhouses with tropical plants from six continents, a pond brimming with aquatic plants, thousands of flowers, a garden of the senses, an aviary and a park of rare animals, as well as a research laboratory, herbarium collection and extensive library. Chemin de l'Impratrice 1, Chambsy Tel: (022) 418 5100. Website: www.ville-ge.ch Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar); daily 0800-1930 (Apr-Sep). Free admission. Palais des Nations (Palace of Nations) This vast building, designed in the form of a double horseshoe and set in a park with century-old trees, is the largest United Nations centre after New York. It was built between 1929 and 1937 to host the League of Nations, the precursor to the UN. Visits are extremely popular and allow entrance to certain conference rooms (including the Council Room with frescoes by Jos Maria Sert, and the Assembly Hall). Avenue de la Paix 14 Tel: (022) 917 4896. Website: www.unog.ch Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200 & 1400-1600 (Sep-Jun); 1000-1700 (Jul-Aug). The visit consists of an hourlong tour. Group tours must be booked in advance. ID is necessary. Admission charge. MAMCO (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art) Situated in a former factory, this museum extends over four floors that are best visited from top to bottom. One of the permanent displays is L'Appartement, a faithful reproduction of a Parisian collector's flat, for which he has loaned his own furniture, paintings and sculptures.

Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10 Tel: (022) 320 6122. Website: www.mamco.ch Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1800, Sat-Sun 1100-1800, closed Mon. Admission charge. Muse International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum) With a powerful combination of audiovisuals, sculpture, computers and documentation, this extraordinary museum tells the story of the founding of the Red Cross by Henry Dunant, as well as its present humanitarian actions. It is Geneva's most impressive and original museum. The Caf Dinant also is a multimedia area. Avenue de la Paix 17 Tel: (022) 748 9525. Website: www.micr.org Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700, closed Tues. Admission charge. Muse d'Art et d'Histoire (Museum of Art and History) The Museum of Art and History presents a multidisciplinary approach to history (from prehistoric times to the present) through important collections of fine art, archaeology and applied art, including arms and armour, costumes and musical instruments. The most celebrated work is Konrad Witz's early 15th-century painting, La Pche Miraculeuse. Rue Charles-Galland 2 Tel: (022) 418 2600. Website: www.ville-ge.ch/mah Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700, closed Mon. Free admission. Muse Patek Philippe (Patek Philippe Museum) Geneva has long been associated with clocks and the Patek Philippe Company count among the finest manufacturers of Swiss watches. The numerous artefacts at this fascinating museum illustrate the history and development of Swiss timepieces, from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including the Calibre 89, the most expensive watch in the world. Rue de Vieux Grenadiers 7 Tel: (022) 807 0910. Website: www.patekmuseum.com Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1400-1800, Sat 1000-1800. Admission charge. Maison Tavel (Tavel House) The one-towered Tavel House is named after the noble Tavel family, who lived here in the 14th century. Today a museum, it provides an insight into the day-to-day lives of Genevois from the 14th to 19th centuries. The attic houses the Magnin Maquette of 1896, a huge relief model of Geneva before 1850, with its city walls still in place. Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 6 Tel: (022) 418 3700. Website: www.ville-ge.ch/mah Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.

Free admission, charge for temporary exhibitions. Shopping Geneva's exclusive shops centre around the perimeters of the Rues Basses - the chic Rue du Rhne, Rue de la Confdration, Rue du March and Rue de la Croix-d'Or. Watch and jewellery shops line these streets quite literally with gold. The main department stores can also be found here - Bon Gnie, Rue du March, Globus, Rue du Rhne 48 and Manor, Rue Cornavin 6. General shopping hours are Monday to Friday 0830-1900 (Thursday until 2100) and Saturday 0800-1800. For a lightweight gift, excellent Swiss chocolate is sold at Du Rhne, Rue de la Confdration 3, and at Martel, Rue de la Croix-d'Or 4. Meanwhile, for a stroll around the antiques quarter and art galleries, a visit to the Old Town and the St-Gervais and Pquis districts is in order. Geneva has many outdoor markets. The flower market on the Place du Molard and the clothes and book market on the Place de la Madeleine are open daily. Flea markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday, at the Plaine de Plainpalais (0800-1800). On Tuesday and Friday morning, the same spot is used for a colourful fruit and vegetable market (0800-1300). On Thursday, regional handicrafts are sold at the Place de la Fusterie (0800-1900). VAT is charged at a rate of 7.6% and can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr400 or more, as long as the purchaser is resident outside Switzerland and the goods are exported within 30 days. LONDON MINI GUIDE Vast, vibrant and truly multicultural, London is one of the world's great cities. Located in the southeast of England, on the River Thames, it is the capital of the United Kingdom and has been the heart of its political, cultural and business life for centuries. The now sprawling metropolis is a far cry from the scrabble of dwellings that first sprouted up to house river traders during their voyages towards the sea. It was the Romans who really kickstarted the city, by establishing Londinium' as an important fortress town, guarding the Thames. Over the centuries, London has developed and expanded, despite the many dangers that might have defeated a lesser place - the Plague, the Great Fire, the bitter English Civil War, a plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament, and the Blitz' during WWII. Nowadays, the sheer scale of Greater London can be daunting at first, although it is a city that is surprisingly easy to get around, with the comprehensive and easily navigated London Underground or Tube'. The twin axis on which London rests is the Houses of Parliament to the west and the City of London to the east. The seat of government (not far from the home of the royal family) is connected to the City (the financial engine room of London and the whole of the UK) by the River Thames. In between lie most of the tourist attractions and the busiest, liveliest different entertainment areas, such as Knightsbridge and Soho. But London's vivacity and charm stretches far beyond the Circle Line - the Underground route that rings the inner city. Residential areas outside the city centre, such as leafy Richmond (southwest) or Hampstead (north), trendy Hoxton (east) or Notting Hill (west), each have their own charm and identity. London's very real multiculturalism is evident on every street (and many restaurant plates) and is

one reason why people love the city. Tourists come for London's history or royal pageantry but they return for all the charms of the modern city, not least the extraordinary breadth of London's cultural life, with world-class art galleries and theatres, buzzing nightlife, film, music, culinary and fashion scenes. During summer, London's bountiful green spaces fill up with office workers and tourists enjoying the surprisingly balmy days as cafe tables sprout across pavements. During winter, the grey skies and rain can be forgotten for a while in numerous cosy pubs. But spring or autumn are probably the best seasons to visit the city, when clear crisp sunny days often illuminate London and its landmarks, old and new. City Statistics Location: Southeastern England, United Kingdom. Dialling code: 44. Population: 7.5 million (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 5C (41F). Average July temperatures: 18C (64F). Annual rainfall: 585mm (23 inches). Sightseeing Before setting off sightseeing, it is wise for visitors to study a London Underground map to get a feel for the straightforward colour-coded system. Visitors should also bear in mind, however, that many of the Underground stations are very close to each other and many central areas are easily navigable on foot. Walking the streets of London, or strolling through its parks, you realise that, in a city hailed for its ability to embrace modernity and change, the past is, however, never far away: there are four UNESCO World Heritage sites in London (the Palace of Westminster, the Tower of London, Maritime Greenwich and Kew Gardens) and some 40,000 listed buildings and structures. The tourist heart of London lies mainly on the north bank of the River Thames, with the chunk of flat land between South Kensington in the west to Tower Bridge in the east stuffed full of things to do and see. Starting in the west, there are the three major South Kensington museums - the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Moving eastwards, the next key attraction is Buckingham Palace. A short walk away, through St James's Park, is Westminster, with the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. From here, it is another short walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, with the National Gallery and other attractions. This is where the West End starts, heading slightly north to Leicester Square connecting up with Piccadilly Circus to the west and Covent Garden to the east, with the stately old British Museum a little further away to the northeast. In the middle of the West End, Theatreland and Chinatown merge into Soho, with its nightlife and new media offices. Along the river itself, on the north bank is the Tate Britain gallery in the west, followed by Westminster and then the Embankment. Crossing over the River Thames from the Embankment can be done on the pedestrian Golden Jubilee Bridges.

The south bank of the river now has its own throngs of tourists, at the London Eye and London Aquarium. This side of the river also dominates culturally, with the South Bank Centre and, further east, the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre. Another pedestrian bridge, Lord Foster's Millennium Bridge, connects the Tate Modern with St Paul's Cathedral, back on the north bank. From St Paul's, it is possible to walk through the City of London, reaching the Tower of London further east. Tower Bridge connects this ancient seat of power to City Hall, on the south bank, the new state-of-the-art home of London Mayor Boris Johnson and the London Assembly, designed by Lord Foster. Tourist Information Visit London Website: www.visitlondon.com Britain and London Visitor Centre (BLVC) 1 Regent Street, SW1 Opening hours: Mon 0930-1830, Tues-Fri 0900-1830, Sat (Oct-May) 1000-1600, Sat (Jun-Sep) 0900-1700, Sun 1000-1600. City Information Centre St Paul's Churchyard (opposite St Paul's Cathedral) Tel: (020) 7332 1456. Website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1730. Passes The London Pass (website: www.londonpass.com) allows free access to over 50 attractions (including the London Aquarium, London Zoo, Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace and Buckingham Palace in summer). The with transport' option also includes transport on all London buses, Tubes and trains. The card is available for one, two, three or six days and you can buy one at the airport and tourist information offices around London. The card is fairly expensive though, so only worth buying if you are planning on doing a lot of sightseeing during your stay in London, or if you are pressed for time (card holders can avoid queues at many of the attractions). Key Attractions London Eye and County Hall Towering 135m (444ft), right in the heart of London, the London Eye is literally an unmissable sight. It's become London's most popular attraction, which usually means a flight' requires booking in advance and often queuing as well. However, the experience (one revolution of the wheel, lasting approximately 30 minutes) is absolutely worth it - the unparalleled views of the city reach as far away as 40km (25 miles). Although the London Eye is the focus of the area, sitting right next door and directly across the River Thames from the Houses of Parliament is County Hall, the former home of the Greater London Council. The enormous building is home to the London Aquarium, which features over 350 different aquatic species from around the world, and some huge water tanks, and the Dal Universe, which contains over 500 works of art by the famous surrealist, including the painting Spellbound, which was created specially for the set of the 1945 Hitchcock thriller, and the sofa in the shape of Mae West's lips. County Hall is also home to two hotels, numerous bars and restaurants and a Namco Station, a vast entertainment centre offering video games, ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, a pool hall, as well as a bar and lounge with big TV screens. South Bank, SE1

London Eye Jubilee Gardens, South Bank, SE1 Tel: 0870 500 0600 (booking line). Website: www.londoneye.com Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000 (Oct-May); daily 1000-2100 (Jun and Sep); daily 1000-2130 (Jul and Aug). Admission charge. Tate Modern and Bankside Opened in 2000, the Tate Modern is a 130 million project that is regarded as a model of urban regeneration, with the disused Bankside power station transformed into an avant-garde space dedicated to 20th-century art. The permanent exhibition changes biannually so that much of the Tate Gallery's collection of modern work can be on show, displayed thematically rather than chronologically. This includes major works by Matisse, Picasso and Warhol, as well as contemporary pieces. The Turbine Hall displays changing pieces of artwork, specially commissioned to fit the enormous space. The Bankside area itself is becoming one of the most exciting corners of the capital, and the 14 million Millennium Bridge is one of the newest additions here. Designed by Norman Foster, it provides a pedestrian link from the Tate Modern to St Paul's Cathedral on the north bank. Bankside's cultural regeneration is enhanced by the beautifully reconstructed Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition, which is open all year round, although plays are only performed at the outdoor venue during the summer. Other attractions along the river, past Southwark Bridge towards London Bridge, include Southwark Cathedral on the edge of the nearby Borough Market (website: www.boroughmarket.org.uk), a heaven for foodies. Bankside, SE1 Tate Modern Bankside, SE1 Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line). Website: www.tate.org.uk Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri and Sat 1000-2200. Free admission (donations welcome); charge for some of the temporary exhibitions. Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 Tel: (020) 7902 1400 or 7401 9919 for tickets. Website: www.shakespeares-globe.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (exhibition and theatre tour) (early Oct-Apr); daily 0900-1230 (exhibition and theatre tour) and 1300-1700 (exhibition only) (May-Oct). Admission charge. Palace of Westminster and Westminster Abbey The Palace of Westminster contains the Houses of Parliament, part of which is one of the city's most famous landmarks - Big Ben. Big Ben is actually the name of the huge bell, whose tolling tune is instantly recognisable. The most ancient part of the whole palace, Westminster Hall, is 900 years old. After almost total destruction by fire, the rest of the palace was rebuilt in neo-gothic style during the 19th century, to designs by Charles Barry. During late July/August and mid September/early October, Parliament is in recess and the Summer

Opening of the Palace of Westminster takes place. Extensive guided tours are offered for visitors; these last about 75 minutes and include the Royal Robing Rooms, the House of Lords and the House of Commons and Westminster Hall. These are not free and they must be booked in advance (in person or from Keith Prowse ticketing, see below). Visitors who want to watch Parliament at work, rather than tour the palace, can watch from the Strangers' Gallery. When Parliament is in session, there are two long queues (one for the Lords and one for the Commons) outside the palace. Across Parliament Square is Westminster Abbey - a magnificent gothic structure where innumerable members of the British royal family have been christened, married, crowned and interred. Consecrated under Edward the Confessor, in the 11th century, it was rebuilt over the next four centuries in Gothic style. Highlights include Henry VII's Chapel, Poet's Corner and the Coronation Chair. Parliament Square, SW1 Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster Tel: 0870 840 1111 (Keith Prowse ticketing). Website: www.parliament.uk or www.keithprowse.com Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0915-1630 or 1315-1630 (depending on schedules). Admission charge. Westminster Abbey Tel: (020) 7654 4900. Website: www.westminster-abbey.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1645 (Wed until 1900) and Sat 0930-1445 (sightseeing; last admission one hour before closing); all day Sun (religious services only). Admission charge, service free. Trafalgar Square Former London Mayor Ken Livingston has made the once-congested and pigeon-infested Trafalgar Square a 'World Square', pedestrianising more of this famous space and banning seed-sellers, in an attempt to stop what he considers a nuisance. Nelson's Column dominates the centre of the square while on the north side, one of the world's greatest galleries, the National Gallery, is to be found. It houses an incredible collection of Western paintings from the 13th to the early 20th century, as well as frequent special exhibitions. Round the corner, the National Portrait Gallery displays the country's famous, infamous and forgotten in the media of oil, watercolour, marble and photography. The Ondaatje Wing includes a lecture theatre and restaurant. Opposite the gallery is the beautiful 18th-century neoclassical church, St Martin-in-the-Fields, which hosts regular concerts and has a cafe in the crypt. Trafalgar Square, WC2 National Gallery Trafalgar Square, WC2 Tel: (020) 7747 2885. Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100. Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions. National Portrait Gallery 2 St Martin's Place, WC2

Tel: (020) 7312 2463 (recorded information) or 7306 0055. Website: www.npg.org.uk Opening hours: Sat-Wed 1000-1800, Thurs and Fri 1000-2100. Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions. Covent Garden This area has long been associated with the market trade. For some 300 years, it has hosted traders of all sorts of wares, perhaps most famously the fruit and vegetable market, which was centred in the Piazza. The market is still here, and today, the area is also home to many shops, bars and restaurants. The street performers, and the cheering crowds they attract, give the area a very special atmosphere, and make Covent Garden a must see for all first time visitors to London. The world famous Royal Opera House can be found here too. A popular museum in the area is the London Transport Museum, which retraces the history and development of the city's transport system. The museum reopened in November 2007 following extensive renovation. Piazza, Covent Garden Website: www.coventgarden.uk.com London Transport Museum Piazza, Covent Garden Tel: (020) 7379 6344. Website: www.ltmuseum.co.uk Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri 1100-2100. Admission charge. Buckingham Palace Buckingham Palace, the London home of the Queen, is hugely popular with tourists. They flock to the palace to witness royal pageantry dating back centuries at the Changing of the Guard ceremony, which takes place daily at 1130 from April to July and on alternate days at other times of the year. There is also the rare chance of seeing inside a royal residence (summer only). The building, by John Nash and Edward Blore, was built around the shell of the older of the older Buckingham House, in the 19th century. The rather drab facade was added in 1913. The 19 State Rooms of the palace, including the Throne Room and the Picture Gallery, are only open to the public during August and September, when the Queen moves to her Scottish residence. The refurbished and expanded Queen's Gallery is open to the public throughout the year. It displays a changing exhibition of selected works from the Royal Collection, which covers five centuries' worth of art collecting and treasures, now held in trust by the Queen for the nation. The 17-hectare (42acre) garden, long hidden from view, is also open to visitors touring the palace. Buckingham Palace Road, SW1 Tel: (020) 7321 2233 or 7766 7300 (credit card booking line). Website: www.royalcollection.org.uk Opening hours: Daily 0945-1800 (last admission 1545) (end of Jul-end of Sep only). Admission charge. Tower Hill The infamous royal fortress on Tower Hill, the Tower of London, was begun by William the Conqueror in 1078 and remained a royal residence until the mid 16th century. Today, it houses the priceless Crown Jewels and the Royal Armouries collection. The history of the tower is a catalogue of intrigue and bloodshed - key historical figures, including members of the royal family, were imprisoned, tortured and/or executed here. The nearby Tower Bridge (a prime example of Victorian architecture and engineering) spans the River Thames. Hydraulic machinery, hidden in twin neo-

gothic towers, lifts the central section to allow ships in and out of the Pool of London. Visitors can learn about the bridge in the Tower Bridge Exhibition or enjoy the excellent views towards Canary Wharf and the City of London. On the northeast side, the harbour at St Katharine's Dock marks the beginning of the London Docklands, while the warehouses to the south house the stylish Design Museum. Tower Hill, EC3 Tower of London Tel: 0844 7582 7777. Website: www.hrp.org.uk Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1730 and Sun-Mon 1000-1730 (Mar-Oct); Tues-Sat 0900-1630, SunMon 1000-1630 (Nov-Feb).Admission charge. Tower Bridge Exhibition Tower Hill, EC3 Tel: (020) 7403 3761 (exhibition) or 7940 3984 (bridge lifting times). Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Apr-Sep); daily 0930-1800 (Oct-Mar). Admission charge. Design Museum Shad Thames, SE1 Tel: 0870 833 9955. Website: www.designmuseum.org Opening hours: Daily 1000-1745. Admission charge. St Paul's Cathedral The dome of St Paul's Cathedral is the third largest in the world and one of the most distinctive features of the London skyline. The present building, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was completed in 1710, on the site of the original cathedral that was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. On the inside of the dome, the Whispering Gallery, named for its incredible acoustics, offers a close-up of the frescoes of the life of St Paul that decorate the interior of the dome. From there, visitors can climb higher, up to two further galleries, which are outdoors and which offer magnificent views across the whole of London. Guided tours are available, book in advance. Paternoster Square, EC4 Tel: (020) 7246 8350. Website: www.stpauls.co.uk Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1600 (sightseeing); sightseeing is restricted on Sun and religious holidays. At the time of writing, hours were reduced to 0830-1530 due to maintenance work. Admission charge. British Museum The British Museum, the centrepiece of which is Norman Foster's glass-roofed Great Court, is one of the world's finest museums. Visitors must contend with a mind-boggling 6 million artefacts from all corners of the globe, plucked (or plundered) by collectors. The awesome scale of the museum means it is essential to select just a few of the 94 galleries for close attention. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone, the Anglo-Saxon Sutton Hoo treasures and the controversial Parthenon Sculptures, known as the Elgin Marbles, taken from the Parthenon in Athens. A 90-minute

'Highlights' tours is available daily at 1030, 1300 and 1500. Great Russell Street, WC1 Tel: (020) 7323 8299 or 8181 for tickets. Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk Opening hours: Mon-Wed 0900-1800, Thurs-Fri 0900-2300, Sat 0800-2300, Sun 0800-1800. Free admission, charge for some of the temporary exhibitions Tate Britain The Gallery of Modern British Art opened in 1897, around the collection of sugar merchant Henry Tate. It now holds an unrivalled collection of British paintings from 1500 to the present day. Much 20th-century art has moved to the Tate Modern (see above), however, some remains on rotation here, from Gaudier Brzeska to Gilbert and George. There is also the 'Art Now' room, which shows a changing contemporary exhibition. The magnificent Turner Bequest is housed in the purpose-built Clore Gallery, with hundreds of Turner paintings on display. Millbank, SW1 Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line). Website: www.tate.org.uk Opening hours: Daily 1000-1750. Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions. South Kensington Museums The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) is one of three major museums in South Kensington - the others being the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Founded in the 19th century as a museum of the decorative arts, the V&A's 11km (7 miles) of corridors trace a path through paintings, jewellery, furniture and textiles dating from 3000BC to the present day. Highlights include the Raphael Cartoons, the sculpture court, the dress collection from 1700 onwards, as well as the British Galleries 1500-1900', a comprehensive history of British art and design. The award-winning Science Museum offers interactive exhibits on all kinds of scientific topics, from space, time or weather to agriculture or food, from computing or mathematics to nuclear physics or veterinary history. One key gallery is Making the Modern World', which includes objects such as early cars and computers. The incredible Victorian building that is the Natural History Museum is divided into different zones exploring varying aspects of the planet. Highlights include a full-size model of a blue whale, the dinosaur exhibits and the earthquake simulator. For live specimens, there is the Wildlife Garden outside. The Darwin Centre houses the museum's extensive collections of specimens, which date as far back as the 16th century but also include recent new species discoveries. It also allows visitors to interact with the scientists using the collections and carrying out current research. V&A Museum Cromwell Road, SW7 Tel: (020) 7942 2000. Website: www.vam.ac.uk Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 1000-1745, Fri 1000-2200. Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions. Science Museum Exhibition Road, SW7 Tel: 0870 870 4868.

Website: www.sciencemuseum.org.uk Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800. Free admission. Natural History Museum Cromwell Road, SW7Tel: (020) 7942 5000. Website: www.nhm.ac.uk Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1750. Free admission. Shopping London is one of the world's great shopping cities. In the west, the King's Road in Chelsea, SW1, has a long-standing reputation for fashion and the Notting Hill area abounds with fashion boutiques. In the east, the Brick Lane area, E1 is home to up-and-coming fashion designers' studios with many designers opening shops alongside those selling vintage furniture, second-hand clothes and other quirky finds. More centrally, Oxford Street (the busiest shopping street in Europe) and Regent Street, both W1, attract swarms of shoppers to well-known high-street clothing shops and megastores, including Hamley's toy emporium. Department stores (such as trendy Selfridges, reliable Marks & Spencer, and back-to-basics John Lewis) are mostly located along Oxford Street. High-fashion Liberty is on Great Marlborough Street (off Regent Street) and just behind it sits Carnaby Street - popular in the swinging 60s; it is now enjoying a revival, although it is mostly filled with chain stores. Tottenham Court Road, WC1, is the place to go for electrical goods, while, Charing Cross Road, WC2, has long been the centre for bookshops in London, with enticing second-hand shops and bigger stores including Foyles which has a great selection of specialist works. Covent Garden, WC2, is one of the most popular shopping areas. Its Piazza, once the site of the fruit and vegetable market, is now filled with specialist shops, cafes, craft stalls and street performers, while Floral Street is home to trendy clothes shops and Neal Street cool shoe shops. Old and New Bond Streets, W1, are home to the flagship stores for big international designers, such as Prada and Gucci, with nearby Conduit Street providing a home to more off-the-wall designers, such as Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood. All these rub shoulders with the home of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row. Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1, attracts huge numbers of tourists (and locals) every year, with its legendary sales and heavenly food hall, decked out in Arts and Crafts tiles. Another good place for typical British foodstuffs is Fortnum and Mason, W1. The vast market at Camden Lock, NW1, is one of the city's top attractions. It is open daily but primarily Saturday and Sunday. (Note: The market was partially destroyed by fire in February 2008). Visitors also flock to the antiques and flea market on the Portobello Road, W10, on Friday and Saturday. In the East End, Sunday markets sell everything from fruit and vegetables to jewellery and junk, such as Petticoat Lane and Brick Lane, E1, open 0900-1400 and 0600-1300 respectively, as well as

the Sunday morning flower market at Columbia Road, E2. Newly redeveloped Spitalfields Market, E1, continues to thrive. Focused around extensive organic produce stalls, there are also stalls selling arts and crafts, antiques, records and clothes. Antiques are available on Camden Passage, Islington, N1, on Wednesday and Saturday, and Greenwich Market, SE10, on Saturday and Sunday. One of the most wonderful places for shoppers to find 20th-century antiques is the massive maze of Alfie's Antique Market, 13-25 Church Street, NW8, open Tuesday to Saturday. For foodies, Borough Market, SE1, is still the best, open Friday and Saturday, while, Brixton Market, SW9, offers the biggest selection of Caribbean food in Europe, open every day except Friday. Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0930-1800, although some shops stay open as late as 2000. Many are also open Sunday 1200-1800. Late-night opening (usually until 2000) is on Thursday in the West End and Wednesday in the Knightsbridge area. Most major stores and shops in the West End are part of the Tax-Free Shopping scheme run by Global Refund,, which offers VAT (currently charged at 17.5%) refunds to visitors from outside the EU. To encourage European visitors, the Euro is now increasingly accepted in major shops.

MILAN MINI GUIDE Milan (Milano), situated on the flat plains of the Po Valley, is the capital of Lombardy and thoroughly enjoys its hard-earned role as Italy's richest and second largest city. Wealthy and cosmopolitan, the Milanesi enjoy a reputation as successful businesspeople, equally at home overseas and in Italy. Embracing tradition, sophistication and ambition in equal measure, they are just as likely to follow opera at La Scala as their shares on the city's stock market or AC or Inter at the San Siro Stadium. Three times in its history, the city had to rebuild after being conquered. Founded in the seventh century BC by Celts, the city, then known as Mediolanum (mid-plain'), was first sacked by the Goths in the 600s (AD), then by Barbarossa in 1157 and finally by the Allies in WWII, when over a quarter of the city was flattened. Milan successively reinvented herself under French, Spanish and then Austrian rulers from 1499 until the reunification of Italy in 1870. It is a miracle that so many historic treasures still exist, including Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper, which survived a direct hit in WWII. The Milanesi's appreciation of tradition includes a singular respect for religion; they even pay a special tax towards the cathedral maintenance. It is therefore fitting that the city's enduring symbol is the gilded statue of the Virgin, on top of the cathedral (Il Duomo). Milan is founded around a historic nucleus radiating from the cathedral, with a star-shaped axis of arteries spreading through modern suburbs to the ring road. The modern civic centre lies to the northwest, around Mussolini's central station, and is dominated by the Pirelli skyscraper, which dates from 1956. The trade and fashion fairs take place in the Fiera district, west of the nucleus around the Porta Genova station. Milan's economic success was founded at the end of the 19th century, when the metal factories and the rubber industries moved in, replacing agriculture and mercantile trading as the city's main sources of income. Milan's position at the heart of a network of canals, which provided the irrigation for the Lombard plains and the important trade links between the north and south, became less important as industry took over - and the waterways were filled. A few canals remain in the Navigli district near the

Bocconi University, a fashionable area in which to drink and listen to live music. Since the 1970s, Milan has remained the capital of Italy's automobile industry and its financial markets, but the limelight is dominated by the fashion houses, who, in turn, have drawn media and advertising agencies to the city. Milan remains the marketplace for Italian fashion - fashion aficionados, supermodels and international paparazzi descend upon the city twice a year for its spring and autumn fairs. Valentino, Versace and Armani may design and manufacture their clothes elsewhere, but Milan, which has carefully guarded its reputation for flair, drama and creativity, is Italy's natural stage. City Statistics Location: Lombardy, northwest Italy. Dialling code: 39. Population: 1.5 million. Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 1C (34F). Average July temperatures: 22C (72F). Annual rainfall: 1,012mm (39.8 inches). Sightseeing Visitors are not normally drawn to Milan for its culture, which is a pity since the city centre has many museums and a particularly good selection of world-class art exhibitions and individual pieces. Everybody has heard of Da Vinci's The Last Supper, now restored and in the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. However, the less famous Brera Gallery is an international treasure house (on a par with the Uffizi Gallery in Florence or London's National Gallery) and Michelangelo's last work, the extraordinary Pieta Rondanini, in the civic galleries of the Sforza Castle, is a surprise find for many of the city's visitors. Sightseeing is made easier by the proximity of attractions to the city's duomo (cathedral). Visitors should not be afraid to explore on foot, ignoring the efficient transport services when time permits. The centre has an attractive number of pedestrianised quarters where a cocktail of architectural styles (the grandeur of Imperial Austria, the grace of Renaissance Italy and the optimistic bravado of the belle poque) often stand shoulder to shoulder with the very modern, to stylish effect. The pace of Milan can be unrelenting. Visitors embracing the invigorating tonic of city life will need to balance their time - as the Milanesi do. Urban romantics will enjoy wandering the southern stretch of the historic centre, taking in the canal banks of the Naviglio Grande, where the old wash houses can still be seen, exploring the university district and the historic collection of basilicas Sant'Eustorgio and Sant'Ambrogio. The city parks, Parco Sempione and the Giardini Pubblici, are to the north and are pleasant for a break on a sunny day. Tourist Information Azienda Promozione Turistica del Milanese (APT) Via Marconi 1 Tel: 02 7252 4301. Website: www.milanoinfo.eu Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0845-1900, Sat 0900-1300 and 1400-1800, Sun 0900-1300 and 1400-1700 (winter); Mon-Fri 0830-2000, Sat 0900-1300 and 1400-1900, Sun 0900-1300 and 1400-1700 (summer). There is another tourist information office in Stazione Centrale, Piazza Duca d'Aosta, on the first floor

(tel: 02 7740 4318), open Mon-Sat 0800-1900, Sun 0900-1230 and 1330-1800. Passes The Welcome Card includes a one-day public transport pass, a short history of the city, a map of the city (including public transport routes), discount vouchers for selected shops and a CD compilation of classical music. Unfortunately, no discounts or free entrance to tourist sights are currently offered. The card is available from the tourist information office. Key Attractions Duomo (Cathedral) At the heart of the city, Milan's Duomo is the world's largest gothic cathedral, begun in 1386 and added to each century thereafter. The best time to visit is in bright sunshine, when the windows create a kaleidoscope of colour through the cavernous interior. St Charles Borromeo, its most important benefactor, lies buried at its heart. A champion of the Counter Reformation, he commissioned the wooden choir, many of the statues and the nivola, the peculiar basket that is used in one of Milan's stranger ceremonies. Twice a year (May and September), Milan's most important relic, a nail from the cross of Christ, which has been displayed over the high altar since 1461, is brought down by the bishop who is hoisted up there in the nivola. Visitors should explore the underground octagonal chamber where Borromeo is buried (lo scurolo di San Borromeo) and the adjacent Treasury. WWII bombs thankfully just missed the cathedral's roof, which nests amid a majestic web of flying buttresses, spires and pinnacles. Above the forest of 135 spires and more than 3,400 statues, the small gilded copper statue of the Virgin, the Madonnina', erected in 1774, stands over the central lantern, 108.5m (119ft) above the city; the statue is lit at night. Visitors should take the lifts outside the apse to avoid climbing the 158 stairs. Il Museo del Duomo next door is well worth a visit. Piazza del Duomo Tel: 02 7202 2656. Website: www.duomomilano.it Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900. Free admission (cathedral); charge (treasury and terrace). Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Entered from the piazza in front of the cathedral, the glass-domed cruciform Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery is a vast belle poque shopping arcade. It was built to link the Piazza del Duomo to the Piazza della Scala and soon became Milan's conservatory. Winter and summer, Milanesi can be seen here, escaping the rain, browsing the exclusive shops and sipping Campari and soda in the bars. Piazza del Duomo Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (shops, bars and restaurants close at various times). Free admission. Museo Teatrale alla Scala (Theatre Museum at La Scala) Opera lovers should visit this museum, crammed with rich mementoes of the celebrated opera house, La Scala. Two collections are devoted to Milan's darling Verdi, whose Slaves Chorus' from Nabucco remains the unofficial Italian anthem. Memorabilia include the spinet on which he learned to play, scores in his own hand and the jewel-encrusted baton presented to him after the triumphal reception of Aida. Rossini, Puccini and Toscanini are honoured alongside him. Largo Ghiringhelli 1 Tel: 02 8879 2473. Website: www.lascala.milano.it Opening hours: Daily 0900-1230, 1330-1730. Admission charge.

Santa Maria delle Grazie The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo) is one of the most famous paintings in the world. Lodovico Sforza commissioned Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece (1495-97) for the refectory adjoining the Dominican church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The painting depicts the moment of Christ's revelation of the betrayal. The 12 apostles are grouped into threes, Christ at the centre, Judas (described by Vasari as a study in perfidy') to the right, his hand frozen on the bag of silver on the table. The positions of the figures are thought to relate to the signs of the Zodiac. Over the years, paint flaked off because Leonardo applied it directly to dry plaster (fresco secco) instead of bonding the pigments with wet plaster (buon fresco). Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2, Corso Magenta Tel: 02 8942 1146. Website: www.cenacolovinciano.org Opening hours: Opening times vary; visits are limited to 15 minutes, in groups of 25; booking is mandatory and reservations are only accepted 60 days prior to visit (credit cards are not accepted). Admission charge. Museo d'Arte Antica del Castello Sforzesco (Museum of Historic Art of the Sforza Castle) Three municipal museums compete for attention within the redbrick 15th-century Sforza Castle on the edge of the Parco Sempione, but the most venerable is the Museum of Historic Art. Visitors come to see Michelangelo's last work, the unfinished Piet Rondanina, depicting the Virgin cradling the body of Christ, which was bought by the museum in 1952. The sculpture's rough surface and abstract sinuosity is strikingly modern. Upstairs, above the extensive sculpture galleries, there is a large collection of paintings, including notable works by Mantegna, Antonello da Messina and Leonardo da Vinci. Besides the combined Museum of Historic Art and the Pinacoteca del Castello (housing Italian painting from the 13th to 18th centuries), the other two museums, the Museum of Applied Arts (exhibiting wrought-iron work, ceramics, ivory and musical instruments), and the Archaeological Museum, are housed in the fortress (Rocchetta). Piazza Castello Tel: 02 8846 3700 (castle) or 3703 (museums) Website: www.milanocastello.it Opening hours: Castle daily 0700-1800 (winter), 0700-1900 (summer); museums daily 0900-1730. Free admission (charge for museums). Museo Poldi-Pezzoli (Poldi-Pezzoli Museum) The Poldi-Pezzoli Museum's varied and often exquisite collection of art, furnishings and historic arms was put together by the 19th-century aristocrat Gian Giocomo Poldi Pezzoli (1802-79). Milan's favourite painting (after The Last Supper), Antonio Pollaiolo's Portrait of a Lady, hangs here. The profile portrait of an elegant and well-attired lady has since become an icon for Milan's own style and elegance. The museum also hosts paintings by Andrea Mantegna and Sandro Botticelli. Via Manzoni 12 Tel: 02 796 334. Website: www.museopoldipezzoli.it Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800. Admission charge. Museo Bagatti Valsecchi (Bagatti Valsecchi Museum) The Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi, built by two brothers in 1883 as their ideal Renaissance household, was only opened as a museum in 1994. Avid collectors of antiques from the 15th and early 16th centuries,

they furnished the rooms with their vast collections. The result is a fascinating insight into the mentality of 19th-century Milan, which had just recovered its independence, nostalgically looking back to the days of the Sforza. Highlights of the collection include the fine painting of Santa Giustina by Bellini and the exquisite majolica and Venetian crystal glassware. Via Santo Spirito 10/Via Ges 5 Tel: 02 7600 6132. Website: www.museobagattivalsecchi.org Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1300-1745; by appointment only in August. Admission charge. Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Picture Gallery) Napoleon, whose statue by Canova stands in the courtyard, opened the Brera Picture Gallery in 1809, a collection that was enriched with objects confiscated on his Italian campaigns. Formerly a Jesuit Academy of Science, the Brera's name comes from the meadows in which it once stood. The collection is best known for its Venetian and Lombard masters. Particularly fine are the lyrical Piet by Giovanni Bellini, depicting the death of Christ, and Mantegna's virtuoso treatment of the same subject, the body foreshortened and viewed from the soles upward. Tintoretto's gruesome depiction of the spirit of St Mark hovering over his cadaver, appearing to the Venetian merchants in the gloom of the Alexandrian catacombs, is hard to miss. Raphael's Wedding of the Madonna and two rare works by the enigmatic Piero della Francesca should also not be overlooked. Via Brera 28 Tel: 02 722 631. Website: www.brera.beniculturali.it Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0830-1930. Admission charge. Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnica Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo da Vinci National Science and Technology Museum) In the city of The Last Supper, interest in the creative genius of Leonardo da Vinci is understandable. Most visitors come to this museum, devoted to the history of science, to see the Leonardo Gallery, with its host of models (both static and functioning) that illustrate da Vinci's intuitive genius. His designs for war machines, flying machines, architecture and production awaken admiration for a man whose ideas, even when not 100% successful (such as the rotating screw, claimed as a precursor to the helicopter), display incredible foresight. Via San Vittore 21 Tel: 02 485 551. Website: www.museoscienza.org Opening hours: Tues-Fri 0930-1700, Sat and Sun 0930-1830. Admission charge. Civica Galleria d'Arte Moderna (Modern Art Gallery) The Modern Art Gallery is a treat for lovers of 19th- and 20th-century art. Housed in Napoleon's former summer palace on the edge of the Giardini Pubblici, the extensive collection covers neo-classicism to the modern day. The Impressionists are well represented in the Grassi collection on the second floor, with works by Bonnard, Czanne, Corot, Renoir, Sisley and Vuillard. The gallery also holds numerous works by Umberto Boccioni (1882-1916), one of the founders of Futurism (approximately 1910). Palazzo Reale, Via Palestro 16 Tel: 02 7600 2819.

Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1730. Free admission. Shopping Milan is a temple to high fashion, home of Armani and Versace, and naturally sure to delight the high priests and priestesses of style. The so-called Quadrilateral (Quadrilatero della Moda) of fashion, formed by Via Montenapoleone (Montenapo'), Via Sant'Andrea, Via Monzani and Via della Spiga north of the cathedral, is top of the list. Names such as Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Ext, Ferragamo, Gucci, Missoni, Prada, Trussardi, Valentino, Versace and Vuitton read like a veritable ABC of Italian chic. Those lacking the supreme self-confidence to enter such hallowed ground as Versace's four floors of couture (on Via Montenapoleone 2) should stick to window-shopping paradise on Via della Spiga, where traffic is banned. L'Armadio de Laura, Via Voghera 25, has some fine offbeat thrift and end-ofseason returns. For the top names in furniture and design, streets to the north (close to the Quadrilateral in Corso Matteoti, Via Durini and Via Manzoni) are best, although pricey. Alternatively, a good bet is the district around the Brera - once the haunt of artists who have now been priced out by the exclusive boutiques and art galleries. The pedestrian Via Fiori Chiari is a particularly pleasant spot for browsing galleries, with a number of good cafes along the way. Antique fairs are popular at the weekends around the Naviglio Grande. Outside the historic centre, fashion outlets are able to move into even bigger premises: Corso Buenos Aires (north), Corso Vercelli (west) and Corso XXII Marzo (east) are runners up for fashion shopping. Clothes, hats, luggage, shoes, accessories and sports fashions are generally high quality and good value in Milan, although not cheap. Stockhouse, Via Montegani 7, is a good discount store; others are listed on the Corriere della Sera's website (www.corriere.it), where the shopping pages (Il mondo degli outlet) detail outlets and bargains (spacci e occasioni). For those who prefer the bustle of street markets, Viale Papiniano (metro San Agostino) is open all day Saturday, while Via Zivetti (metro Centrale FS) is open on Wednesday mornings. The flea market, Fiera di Senigallia, takes place along the Darsena basin on Saturdays between 0830 and 1700. Most shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-1930, although the bigger stores stay open all day. Most shops close on Sunday and reopen on Monday afternoon, except food stores, which reopen on Monday morning but close again for the afternoon. However, many shops open daily during the Christmas season and major bookshops are open until 2300. Many shops close for most of August. Sales tax varies between 4 and 20%. Non-EU citizens can reclaim VAT on their larger purchases and in duty free shops.