UNIVERSITY OF HOUSTONUNIVERSITY OF HOUSTON

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The West Ends Untold StoriesThe West Ends Untold Stories

A brief history of Galvestons West EndA brief history of Galvestons West EndA brief history of Galvestons West End
By: Lance SmithBy: Lance SmithBy: Lance Smith HIST 3327 Professor Harwell May 6, 2013
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The Hidden West End The sprawling island of Galveston is known to millions for its beaches and numerous attractions. An island full of rich history, it has been shaped by many unrelenting storms; yet, left devastated and in shambles, the island continues to comeback after each catastrophe. Established First settled in the early nineteenth century, the island has evolved into a seaside get- away for countless individuals along the bustling Texas Gulf Coast. Although Galveston brings in tourists from all around, the islands West Endwest end still remains something of a hidden gem yet to be discovered by the masses. The land that now lies west of the islands famous seawall tends to be overlooked throughout its history though;. In despite the fact San Luis Pass was once considered a port that would rival that of New Orleans, thus eliminating the Port of Galveston. 1 The village of San Luis was established in 1838 on a peninsula at the furthest point west of what is now Galveston Island. Developed by land speculators, a community soon emerged complete with two general stores, hotels, churches, and even schools.2 The village grew rapidly as settlers began to flock to the West Endwest end acquiring land for as cheap as one to two dollars an acre.3 Within a matter of years, the community was 2,000 strong and a viable threat for the struggling Port of Galveston. At this time, Galvestons port could not handle ships with
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Mayo, Andrea. "San Luis Pass Kept Trying, Never Quite Made it." Galveston Daily News, August 10, 1966. Accessed Mark 12, 2013. http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-08-10/page-43 2 Mayo, Andrea. "San Luis Pass Kept Trying, Never Quite Made it." Galveston Daily News, August 10, 1966. Accessed Mark 12, 2013. http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-08-10/page-43 3 Robert Christensen, Pioneers of West Galveston Island (Austin: Nortex Press, 1992), 4-6

overbearing loads due to the depth of its channel. San Luis Pass, on the other hand, boasted a depth of eighteen feet,; quite suitable for ships during this era.4 The sheer size of the villages harbor allowed for up to eight ships to anchor at once while workers proceeded to unloaded shipments, which primarily consisted of cotton.5 While the village is in operation fFerries are used to transported goods and travelers across the Pass into Brazoria County. Despite the success of the port, life on the West Endwest end did not come easy for those who settled the village. The commute between to Galveston was a treacherous journey due to lack of roads and dangers from the many outlaws along the Texas cost.6 Fresh water was also a scarce resource, and for the residents. Iin order to solve the towns water shortage, the residents would collected water by diverting rainfall from the roofs into a reservoir.7 By the mid- 1840s powerful storms and tides had began to reshape San Luis Pass,; shifting shifting the shoreline and andfilling the filling the natural harbor with silt to the point that making it was unsuitable to remain a port. Along with nature reclaiming the land, the Republic of Texas suffered an economic depression, which further diminished the population of the small village. In 1853, a strong hurricane hit the Texas coast, stripping the land of the remaining resources. The few residents that remained stayed abandoned the rest of the town
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Marie Beth Jones, "SAN LUIS, TX," Handbook of Texas Online (http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/hvsem), accessed April 19, 2013. Published by the Texas State Historical Association. 5 Mayo, Andrea. "San Luis Pass Kept Trying, Never Quite Made it." Galveston Daily News, August 10, 1966. Accessed Mark 12, 2013. http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-08-10/page-43 6 Mayo, Andrea. "San Luis Pass Kept Trying, Never Quite Made it." Galveston Daily News, August 10, 1966. Accessed Mark 12, 2013. http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-08-10/page-43 7 Marie Beth Jones, "SAN LUIS, TX," Handbook of Texas Online (http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/hvsem), accessed April 19, 2013. Published by the Texas State Historical Association.

by the beginning of 1854.8 Over time, the village succumbed to the sea, taking withwhich took with it any traces of the villages existence. Although the presence of the village is historically documented; to this day, archeologists still debate its precise location. Shortly after the demise of the San Luis colony, the Nottingham Lace Curtain Company once again began to occupiedy the lands west of the city of Galveston. In the early 1890s the English operated Nottingham Lace Company. purchased land at what is today Stewart Road and 11 mile Road.9 Situated in between the Ggulf Ccoast and the bay, , it wasthe company selected it due to the areas damp and cool conditions, which are ideal for producing lace curtains. According to the Galveston Daily News, the factory was a magnificent brick structure, was wellconstructed, and well- lit.10 The main factory towered three- stories over the flat Ggulf Ccoast and occupied an area of 60 feet by 200. 11 O Along with the main factory other adjoining structures stood were built that would stand two-stories tall. Along with the manufacturing plant, the company constructed a small town of over 100 homes was constructed to house the employees and their families. This town was fittingly named Nottingham.. In order for the small community to survive, a lifeline connecting the city of Galveston to Nottingham was essential. This resulted in sixteen miles of railroad being set that would finally
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Marie Beth Jones, "SAN LUIS, TX," Handbook of Texas Online (http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/hvsem), accessed April 19, 2013. Published by the Texas State Historical Association. 9 Darst, Maury. Railroad Once Served West End of Island And Community Around Lace Factory. Galveston Daily News, October 21, 1963. Accessed April 1, 2013. 10 Lace Curtain Making: The Factory in Nottingham in Operation. Galveston Daily News, May 8, 1893. Accessed March 12, 2013. 11 Lace Curtain Making: The Factory in Nottingham in Operation. Galveston Daily News, May 8, 1893. Accessed March 12, 2013.

connected the desolate West Endwest end to the bustling city.12 Once completed, the railroad would not only allowed raw materials to be transported to and from the lace factory, but it would advanced development further down the island. During this time, it became a tradition for Galvestonians to take the train, commonly referred to asor Little Susie as it was commonly referred to, out to the West Endwest end on Sunday afternoons for picnics and other social events. Once the factory was became fully operational, the town of Nottingham grew began to grow rapidly, adding general stores and multiple saloons. However, this era of prosperity would did not last long for the small industrial town. The lace factory was only fully operationaloperated at full capacity for eight months, from May 1893 to January 1894.13 Just as happened with the failed settlement of San Luis, an economic depression would strikestruck the nation, quickly leading to the downfall of the factory and, subsequently, the town.14 Following the factorys closure the towns residents abandoned the settlement. During the 1900 Storm, the powerful storm surge swept away the remnants of the town as well as the railroad were swept away by the powerful storm surge. Afterwards, the remaining what machinery and equipment that remained withinin the factory was stripped away;, leaving just a bare structure remainingstructure. 15 The portions of the factory that survived the initial destruction finally collapsed into the sea during the hurricane of 1915.16 Today only a few

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Darst, Maury. Railroad Once Served West End of Island And Community Around Lace Factory. Galveston Daily News, October 21, 1963. Accessed April 1, 2013. 13 Darst, Maury. Railroad Once Served West End of Island And Community Around Lace Factory. Galveston Daily News, October 21, 1963. Accessed April 1, 2013. 14 Sheehy, Sandy. A Line in the Sand, Offcite, 2008, http://offcite.org/wp content/uploads/2009/10/Cite_74_ALineInTheSand_Do.pdf 15 Brownlow, Russ. In Search of the Lost Community of Nottingham. Texas Historical Commission, April 2009. Accessed March 15, 2013. 16 Brownlow, Russ. In Search of the Lost Community of Nottingham. Texas Historical Commission, April 2009. Accessed March 15, 2013.

bricksall that remains of the Nottingham is the factorysfactorys foundation concealed under the tall grass is a few bricks of the original structure and its foundation.17 With the loss of Nottingham and the destruction of the railroad connecting it to Galveston, the West Endwest end will remained divided for many years to come. Through the next half century the island would faced over fifteen severe tropical disturbances, including Hurricane Carla and its coinciding tornados in 1961.18 The harsh winds and relentless tides would continued to reshape the isolated West Endwest end, building sand dunes in some cases up to fifteen feet in height.19 These conditions provideding an almost pristine sanctuary for wildlife of all kinds to flourish. Other than cattle farms and the occasional fishing camp, the west endured aswas an uncharted wilderness. Robert Marie Christen once wrote about his experiences on the West Endwest end and how the beach was teemeding with life,. I remember how the crabs had to scuttle for cover to avoid being crunched beneath our feet as we walked down the beach.20 Dr. J. O. Dyer a former columnist for the Galveston News painted the most vivid portrait of the coastline when he wrote:
The beaches in early days had many green turtles that laid their eggs in the sand. Alligators were numerous in the ponds, and the snakes were a menace. The early settlers slept in hammocks suspended from the ceiling for fear of the snakes. Many deer swam over to the island, attracted by the rich grass.
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Brownlow, Russ. In Search of the Lost Community of Nottingham. Texas Historical Commission, April 2009. Accessed March 15, 2013. 18 Galveston, Texas history with Tropical Systems. Hurricane City, December 2012, http://www.hurricanecity.com/city/galveston.htm 19 Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. 20 Robert Christensen, Pioneers of West Galveston Island (Austin: Nortex Press, 1992), 4-6 21 Robert Christensen, Pioneers of West Galveston Island (Austin: Nortex Press, 1992), 4-6

Galveston iIsland was was for many years publicized for many years as the blue crab capital of Texas. According to longtime resident and land- owner Theodora Davis, during this time the blue crabs in the waterrs surrounding Galvestons West Endwest end wereas so plentiful with blue crab that families would often times chose to throw back much of their catch rather than carry it back to their residence.22 Limitless amounts of fish swarmed the waters along the coast, so much so that fishermen unloading their nets along shore graciously allowed the few residents that iinhabitinged the beach to partake in the days catch alongside them.23 Through late 1950s, no paved road existed that connected one end of the island to the other.24 The only option available to islanders was either the long and indirect Stewart Road, or driving down the open beach for miles in order to reach the west side.25 When asked about the commute, longtime home owner Katherine Smith remarked that the drive was not a stroll down the beach,. It used to take us forever. We would take the long and windy Stewart Road that went through the marshes and then back by the cattle land. It would take us so long because it was just such a hard road to navigate, not including the horses and the cattle in the road. 26 At this time onlyOnly segments of Stewart Road had beenwere paved,; leaving only sandy roads in some areas to navigate through the sprawling grasslands. When an abundance of visitors left at the end of a weekend or holiday, the traffic along Stewart Roadd. was known to backed up so far that it would taketook three hours just to reach the main bridge to the

22 23

Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. 24 Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. 25 Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. 26 Katherine D. Smith, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author.

island.27 The main obstacle for those who braved the drive along the beach was maneuvering through the loose sand so as not to become stuck and stranded.28 In 1963 voters approved almost $3.6 million dollars in spending to extend the islands highway from Seawall Boulevardlvd all the way down to San Luis Pass.29 Finally after years of debate and deliberation Galveston officials approved a plan that wouldto construct a bridge on the islands West Endwest end. For the first time since ferries were used over a century before, Galveston County would again connect to Brazoria County. On May 8, 1965, a ground breaking ceremony was held to commemorate the beginning of construction. Advocates for the bridge originally proposed the construction of a four lane causeway similar to the main causeway connecting to the island but officials later scaled down that design was later scaled down to the two- lane bridge we seeseen today, which. When completed the bridge would spans 1.3 miles and stands roughly 7,400 feet over the turbulent Gulf waters.30 The concept to build a bridge was originally proposed in the thirties, when the land was first surveyed and auctioned off, but due to the wests lack of inhabitants it was quickly dismissed due to the West Ends lack of inhabitants.31 Only after once commercial development began to expand in the late fifties would did the movement for constructing a bridge begin to gain support. During this time, four master -planned leisure home subdivisions were began

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Katherine D. Smith, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. Robert Christensen, Pioneers of West Galveston Island (Austin: Nortex Press, 1992), 4-6 29 Bridge Will Boom West End of Isle, Galveston Daily News, December 15, 1966, accessed March 12, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-12-15/page-11. 30 Olson, Donald. San Luis Pass Bridge, Galveston, Texas.. Surtreat. November 2003. http://innovativeproduct.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/SanLouisPassBridge-Project.pdf 31 "Tax Equalization in County Urged." Galveston Daily News, June 26, 1930. Accessed March 15, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1930-06-26/page-14?tag=san+luis&rtserp=tags/sanluis?pc=10741&psi=94&pci=7&pt=16910&ndt=ex&pd=26&py=1930&pm=6

developedevelopment,d including Pirates Beach, Jamaica Beach, Terrmar Beach, and Sea Isle.32 The creation of these communities was not only meant to drewaw in the businessmen from the Houston area, but to draw inalso families from throughout the region by promoting Galveston as the Miami Beach of the Gulf Coast.33 In the following years, the four planned communities joined together to establish the West Galveston Island Association.34 The association maintained that the inadequate roads connecting the West Endwest end to Galveston was hindereding these communities from further development ing and diminisheding their property values.35 Eventually, they launched the campaign that successfully extended FM 3005 from Seawall BBoulevardlvd. all the way to San Luis Pass. With the addition of San Luis Pass Road, untouched wilderness was transformed into prime seaside real state overnight,; ushering in a new era for the whole island. The houses that emerged along the shoreline and bay grew larger with each passing decade,; transforming from small fishing cabins into multimillion dollar vacation homes.36 During the 1970s the State of Texas began an attempted to preserve some of the islands natural habitat thanks in part to the donation of almost 2,000 acres of donated land by longtime island residents in the Stewart family, longtime island residents. The state established the Galveston Island State Park, along with constructing the Mary Moody Northern Amphitheater along the San Luis Pass Road at 13

32

Bridge Will Boom West End of Isle, Galveston Daily News, December 15, 1966, accessed March 12, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-12-15/page-11. 33 Bridge Will Boom West End of Isle, Galveston Daily News, December 15, 1966, accessed March 12, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-12-15/page-11. 34 Bridge Will Boom West End of Isle, Galveston Daily News, December 15, 1966, accessed March 12, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-12-15/page-11. 35 Bridge Will Boom West End of Isle, Galveston Daily News, December 15, 1966, accessed March 12, 2013, http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1966-12-15/page-11. 36 Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author.

Mile Road. By the early nineties all but a small portion of the West Endwest end had been sold and developed. Throughout the past century, the West Endwest end has constantly endured change; but since the early sixties, itss Seven Seas Grocery has remained a stable on the west endstaple. In 1963, W. W. (Red) Harrison established Seven Seas when he built a small shack- like building along what is now FM 3005. Located on the outskirts of Jamaica Beach, the store would provided West End homeowners simple necessities for west end homeowners such as bread, bottle water, ice, and beer. 37 Due to the lack of conveniences in-between Galveston and San Luis Pass, local residents would often times congregate around Reds, , turning the general store into a town hall meeting place of sorts.38 The stores popularity grew quickly and in the process Seven Seas solidifiedying itself in the hearts of each islander that visited. Seven Seas may seem like just another family owned grocery store to outsiders, but the store stands as a symbol for the strength of Galveston and the islands residents. Many times throughout the stores history, storms have damaged the building, and each time the Harrisons vowed to rebuild. In 1971 a fire consumed the general store, and without insurance, the Harrison family lacked the resources to rebuild the structure.39 Islanders soon came to their aid and created the Seven Seas Rebuilding Ffund to help with the reconstruction of the store.40 Not every resident contributed money towards the cause though; some provided raw materials,

37 38

Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. Theodora H. Davis, interviewed by author, March 24, 2013, Houston History Project. Translated by author. 39 Seven Seas Rebuilders To Meet. Galveston Daily News, January 20, 1971. Accessed April 5, 2012. 40 Seven Seas Rebuilders To Meet. Galveston Daily News, January 20, 1971. Accessed April 5, 2012.

while others partook in the reconstruction rebuilding.of the store.41 Seven Seas evolution from a small shack to a full general store symbolizes the development that has occurred in the the West Endwest end has made over the last few decades. Looking over the island today, it almost seems inconceivable that at one time this land was open and untamed. Settled with the anticipation of outshining Galveston, the West Endwest end would never prosperprospered in the way like many had foreseen. Each time the West Endwest end began to thrive, development was cut down again and again. Mother Nature has been relentless towards Galvestons West Endwest end, yet it continues to survive and evolve in the face of adversity. Today the West Endwest is almost completely developed with rows of house covering what wasthe once sprawling grasslands. The modest homes that were constructed in the past are now dwarfed in size by massive estates along the water. Although the development of the terrain never fulfilled expectations, the West End west end has become a major factor in the success of Galveston. In 2012 it was noted that 38% of the islands revenue was derived from the West End.42 With the addition of planned communities and vacation homes along the to the west,west end, Galveston Islands economy has beganbegun to flourish. Forever solidifying the West Endwests as an asset throughout the entire island.

41

Work Begins O. Galveston Daily News, January 20, 1971. Accessed April 5, 2012. http://access.newspaperarchive.com/galveston-daily-news/1971-01-20/page-11?tag=sevenseas&rtserp=tags/?pc=10741&psi=94&pci=7&ndt=by&py=1971&pey=1971&pep=seven-seas&psb=relavance 42 Susan Gonzales, trans. West Galveston Island Property Owners Association Board Meeting. www.wgipoa.com/tx/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/poa324.doc. 2012

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