Islands Mag-Walking Across England Trip

LAYOUT OK PAGE PROOF READY TO DROP LASER EPSON Prod/Traffic_______ EIC_______ Photo_______ Fact Check_______ Copy Ed_______ Lead
Ed_______ Lead Ed_______ ME_______ Art Dir_______
Walkers on the
fabled Coast to
Coast Walk pass
Haweswater
reservoir in the
Cumbrian Moun-
tains of England’s
Lake District.
Walking
England
TAKE AN EPIC HIKE THROUGH THE HEART OF A NATION

S TO RY BY T E D AL AN S T E D MAN PH OTO S BY AN D R E A PIS T O L E S I
66 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om
ISL0609_England.indd 66 4/8/09 5:07:12 PM

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Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om 67


ueer fish, the local fellow calls us. We make good on the C2C custom of wetting our boots in
Q Which is odd because about 7,000 hopefuls the froth and collecting a pebble that hopefully we’ll toss into
like us set off from St. Bees Head every year. the North Sea. The symbolism of this act — linking sea to sea
But even here in the Coast to Coast Bar the one step at a time — smacks us. “I hope we can do this,” Tami
night before our departure, we can’t convince says. I give a pep talk and avoid mentioning how roughly 15
one Englishman that our English adventure percent of C2C walkers drop out from sprains, weather or
makes sense. “Why?” he asks, meaning why would we put our- worse. Still, this won’t be some hardened death march — no
selves through this. It’s the prevailing question. Addled from damp tents, fi nicky camp stoves or freeze-dried foods — but
trans-Atlantic jet lag, plus an English ale or two, I present a proper British walk. We’ll enjoy fresh beds, warm meals
my best case: “Our goal is to cross England, and we hope the and cold pints at each day’s end, staying at country B&Bs
experience enriches our souls.” I’m not sure he buys it. and small inns — all C2C traditions, patently English but
At dawn the next day, we follow Dandy Walk path through accessible to anyone with fortitude and sensible shoes.
an emerald pasture where neighing horses scatter into a gauzy We climb northward for several miles along the sheer red
morning mist befitting of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. A ways sandstone cliffs of St. Bees Head, which Wainwright called
on, the eastern edge of the Irish Sea laps at our feet. With my the most beautiful part of this coast. We follow the north-
gal, Tami Van Meter, I’m setting out to traverse England on east arc of the headlands through wavy fields of tall grass
its premier walking route. Plotted in the early 1970s by guide- and wildflowers, passing the bygone
TED ALAN STEDMAN (2)
The C2C Walk

book author Alfred Wainwright, the Coast to Coast Walk, St. Bees Lighthouse, hundreds of begins along the
or C2C, undulates across the isle’s narrow midsection. The roaming sheep and gorgeous gardens. Irish Sea at St. Bees
official tally from decades past pegs the distance at 190 miles, “You’re walkers, aren’t you?” asks a Head. Opposite:
The keeper of Keld
although a recent remeasure with modern gadgets supposedly woman in a sunbonnet as she looks up Lodge in Swaledale
fattens it a bit. We’ll do it in 19 days. Or so we’ve been told. at us from fussing over her flowers. welcomes a walker.
69

“We … are,” I answer between breaths after a sweaty St. Bees. We’re both shocked to see Hiking through the
uphill trudge. She studies us before breaking into a smile. the 12th-century Benedictine Priory fields of St. Bees
Head or the slate
“Oh, brilliant. And you’re Yanks, I see,” she deduces. “Well, Church in St. Bees — where we started mines near But-
you’ve picked a lovely day. I certainly hope you enjoy walking five hours earlier. The dearth of posted termere requires
England. June is a wonderful month for flowers and such.” trail signs has already humbled us. its reward, such
as a pint at the
This chipper woman is Alyson Smith, we learn, and spot- “New rule,” Tami says. “We both Lion Inn (opposite
ting walkers — English parlance for long-distance hikers — read the map and agree on a path.” bottom). Walkers
comes with her territory. The C2C runs smack-dab through The path along Scarny Brow toward (top right) reach
Stonethwaite.
her front yard, a pretty seaside parcel overlooking a craggy Ennerdale Bridge leads through a bur-
bluff 300 very vertical feet above the Irish Sea. Birds wing row of ferns, 6-foot sunflowers and wild rhubarb. Just before
through air sweetened with the licorice scent of wild fennel. the T junction there’s a nearly hidden signed path through
Craning my neck above the blockade of hot-pink foxgloves a tree plantation bearing west toward Brackenwray Farm.
and a circus of other botanicals made possible by Alyson’s We almost miss it too, which would be terrible because our
green thumb, I see the Isle of Man on the misty western night’s stay at Brackenwray promises to be inspiring.
horizon. And what’s this? Now she’s offering us tea. “You’re the Americans, right?” shouts Steve Sullivan to
Birds, flowers and tidy gardens, pleasantries with strangers us after we emerge slightly scarred from a potent thicket
who become friends, storybook landscapes here and afar — it’s 100 yards across his tilled field. “We’ve been expecting you.
all so tit-tat British. Precisely the bloody point. And it resonates Come on in and wash up. We have tea waiting.”
with my DNA. Half the blood in my veins I owe to this island, In England, skipping afternoon tea is a sin for which there
and I’m intrigued by its places and faces. This impromptu is no redemption. As we relax in overstuffed armchairs, Steve
meeting marks the fi rst of what I hope will be many purely tells his story. He’s a retired medic “with a nice pension.” He
British encounters in the far north English countryside. and his wife, Valerie, have refurbished a centuries-old stone
Walking on after tea, we reach Birkham’s Quarry and farmhouse and crafted a well-appointed B&B loft. Steve
there turn eastward, glancing back to say goodbye to the sea. points with pride to exposed 400-year-old raft timbers
A mile ahead, near the hamlet of Sandwith, we study the recycled from an old English ship, then takes us on a tour of
distant profi le of the fi rst of three mountain ranges stand- his subsistence farm. Everything we see — ducks, chickens,
ing between us and the North Sea. pigs — the couple will use themselves
PLAN YOUR TRIP, p. 93
“We’re climbing those?” is Tami’s or sell at farmers markets.
panicky reaction to the sight. “We’re not sentimentalists,” he says.
“Yes, the Lake District,” I tell her. “We try to limit our needs and sustain
“We’ll be there in two days.” When the No r th Se a ourselves in the most practical fashion.
English talk of their mountains, the SCOTLAND
It’s a good living.” So it’s the 21st century
Cumbrian Mountains get the most in an industrialized country, and they
verbiage. All the territory in England live off the land next to a prized national
above 3,000 feet in elevation lies in park. Some would call that brilliant.
Robin
this extreme northwest county, and Stonethwaite Shap
Keld
Hood’s Under grim skies the following day,
Bay
it’s home to Lake District National St. Bees
Head Grasmere
Richmond
Steve and Val see us off on what will
Park, one of the lushest and wettest be our biggest climbing day, with a dif-
areas in the United Kingdom. I throw ficult scramble up Loft Beck and a total
out a half-hopeful assurance that we’ll Irish Se a ENGLAND gain pushing 3,000 feet. Within an
make quick work of those “hills” with hour we enter Lake District National
our Colorado-conditioned legs. They Park and begin the slog past Ennerdale
say confidence is as important as a good Water, a three-mile-long lake cradled
PEOPLE’S PATH
pair of boots on this path. in a steep-sided valley below toothy
“One should always have a defi-
Birds zip around us on their feeding nite objective in a walk, as in life,” peaks. A light drizzle settles in, add-
sorties as we navigate leafy avian tun- wrote guidebook author Alfred ing to the challenge of clambering over
nels and peer into tree hollows cradling Wainwright. Crossing the English the airy 100-foot rocky outcropping
countryside via public paths and
nests of chirping chicks. It’s all won- bridleways, his C2C makes the named Robin Hood’s Chair.
derfully distracting, and we pay the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales I’m resting alone above a steep
price at Pow Beck when we — I — miss and the North York Moors — switchback when a NATO fighter jet
some of England’s finest scenery
a trail connection and we circle more — available to anyone with the screams past 75 yards in front of me as it
than two errant miles back toward proper attitude and shoes. threads the valley, the roar reverberating
70


Va l e s , t o n g u e s , f e l l s , l e a s a n d o t h e r f e a t u r e s
wi th English names lace the gre en slop es
l i k e a n e m b r o i d e r e d qu
uilt.
72 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om

Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om 73

my insides. Military practices over populated European hopelessly civilized. We stroll the Storyteller’s Gardens, then
areas are normal, but I’m guessing this pilot is acting out the forested Poet’s Walk where we fi nd the Latin inscription
his inner cowboy. My heart takes a second to restart. describing how Wordsworth’s sister, Dorothy, would sit at this
If I’m freaked by tons of metal rocketing past my face spot while her brother paced nearby and composed verses. And
at 600 mph and weary from a 15-mile day, I’m soothed we visit Wordsworth’s quaint and venerated Dove Cottage,
into submission that evening as we plod into the Edenesque where he likely penned his trademark poem “The Daffodils,”
Borrowdale valley — dry-stone walls amid luxuriant grassy which even I’ve read: “I wandered lonely as a cloud … .”
pastures, flocks of sheep and enchanting whitewashed stone Of course, it’s not all peaches and cream on the C2C.
cottages topped with mossy slate roofs. Smoke curls from The recurring rhythm borders on torture — consecutive
chimneys, and a stone bridge arches over a brook that actu- early starts; walking and walking rain or shine to make your
ally babbles. I see no cars, just corralled horses. evening’s reservations; the inevitable blisters; and, I must
We trade worldly stories with Dutch and British couples admit, sheep poop. We constantly have to adjust our cloth-
— fellow C2C walkers — in the Langstrath Hotel’s cozy pub, ing to the whims of wind, sun and rain. Then in our case,
warmed by a glimmering fi replace. Our eyelids slacken. “Had there’s getting lost on occasion. But just when the prospect
a long day from Ennerda le, have you?” asks Sara Hodgson, of another mile seems dreadful, the C2C redeems itself.
the hotel’s spunky, attentive co-owner. “Well, luvs, you have It’s day nine, and we’re in a brief “Where are we?” quandary
a nice upstairs room with a big bed just 20 steps from here, after taking an alternate path out of the Lake District from
so relax and enjoy yourselves.” Tami and I eventually melt Bampton. Except for the bleating sheep, which are starting to
into fi reside chairs, content as purring cats. look appetizing, it feels lonely here. The maze of worn paths
Vales, tongues, fells, leas and other features with English leading out like spokes on a wheel is an infuriating reminder
names lace the green slopes like an embroidered quilt as we of the antiquity of the land. People of purpose — Roman
climb and descend Lining Crag on our way to Grasmere. soldiers and medieval serfs, tally-ho aristocrats and postal
The great English poet and Grasmere resident William deliverymen — defi ned these paths over centuries. Walkers
Wordsworth christened this valley “the fairest place on like us are not nearly as emboldened.
earth.” Entering a glorious sylvan setting with gingerbread “Isn’t that Shap Abbey?” Tami asks, The C2C links
historic English
houses, we can see that this peaceful village on the banks looking through our binoculars. “It’s on landmarks like
of the River Rothay hasn’t lost any of its charm. our route.” The imposing stone tower the tower of Shap
Tour-bus loads of adoring travelers make the pilgrimage becomes a beacon we easily aim for. Abbey, which is
visible for miles.
here. But despite the influx, Grasmere remains the archetypal When we arrive, we’re the only ones at Along the way, you
English village, a genteel artist’s enclave where everything is this remote, eroded edifice frozen in the meet the locals.
74


We m a y n e v e r s e e t h e m a g a i n , y e t t h e y
b e c o m e f r i e n d s f o r l i f e . “I’l l r a t h e r m i s s
y o u r c o m p a n y ,” F r a n k s a y s t h e n e x t m o r n i n g .
I t ’s a l l w e c a n d o t o k e e p d r y e y e s .
76 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om

All downhill, the Middle Ages. For centuries, locals plun- tradition, I keep a stiff upper lip, but I know a situation like
last leg of the dered the abbey’s carved stonework. But this can quickly deteriorate from unpleasant to perilous.
C2C runs down
to Robin Hood’s the looming tower stands mostly intact, The weather worsens, and by now we’re bowing into the
Bay. Opposite: casting as heavy a shadow as it did hun- raging winds and stinging sleet. We can barely see the mucky
Wildflowers bloom dreds of years ago when it was built. earth in front of our feet. We scramble around boulders, strug-
in Yorkshire Dales
National Park. Nearing the midway point now, half gle through bogs and try to discern the correct path from inter-
of me wants to run, and the other half secting sheep trails. We climb blindly until the eerie stacked
wants to linger. Tami and I are developing an emotional piles of slate known as the Nine Standards Rigg materialize
bond to England that we didn’t anticipate. The countryside is out of the mist. Historians speculate they were built about 400
fascinating, the history enthralling. But it’s the people we’ve years ago to resemble towering soldiers that would scare off the
met whom we’ll remember the rest of our lives. Fatigue not- invading Scots. It’s a good story. But for the next half-hour, the
withstanding, I’m already starting to regret the journey’s end. imposing cairns serve as bodyguards, shielding us from an icy
Two days and 20 miles farther on along the C2C, with gale fierce enough to stop walkers dead in their tracks.
big weather moving in off the North Atlantic, we get a Amid the worst of the fusillade, we hunker down behind
pre-dawn start from Kirkby Stephen, a market town that one of the stone barriers. Even with gloves on, my hands are
was fi rst settled by the Romans along the perfectly named starting to get numb. I’m not worried about surviving. We
River Eden. It’s a “red-letter day.” We’re leaving Cumbria have emergency gear and food. Still, being on one of the high-
TED ALAN STEDMAN
and entering Yorkshire Dales National Park — and cross- est precipices in England during a raging
ing the Pennines, England ’s mountainous backbone. storm makes us question our C2C out-
ISLANDS.COM/england
Within the fi rst miles, the wind is howling with 60 mph come. Tami gives me an exasperated look
FOLLOW THE ROUTE
gusts, sleet pelts us and we can see barely 20 yards, peer- that seems to say, “Look what you’ve WATCH TED’S VIDEO
ing through our cinched all-weather hoods. In the English gotten us into now.” (continued on p. 92) FIND PLACES TO STAY
77

U N I T E D S TAT E S
VirginIslands England (from p. 77)

Walkers on the
fabled Coast to
Coast Walk pass
Haweswater
reservoir in the
Cumbrian Moun-
tains of England’s
Lake District.
out at the castle and talk like old friends.
He recounts his life, his love of England
ST. CROIX I ST. JOHN I ST. THOMAS and wistful memories of his late wife. “I
Walking feel privileged having spent most of my
S T. C R O I X
days here. I cannot imagine a life any-
England where else beyond England,” he says.
Richmond’s castle, its Sunday mar-
ket and glorious medieval streets are
the salve we need before hoisting our
TAKE AN EPIC HIKE THROUGH THE HEART OF A NATION
S TO RY BY T E D AL AN S T E D M AN PH OTO S BY AN D R E A PIS T O L E S I
66 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 𰀔𰀔 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 𰀔𰀔
packs two days later to cross the Vale of

DIVI CARINA BAY BEACH RESORT Miles later, the worst weather and Mowbray. Wainwright took the unevent-
& CASINO the knee-deep bogs behind us, we ren- ful segment to task: “Those who believe
Located on a quiet stretch of beach in St. dezvous with a group of Brits, also hur- the earth is flat will be mightily encour-
Croix, the Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort
combines privacy and relaxation with modern rying off the 2,200-foot-high moors. aged on this section,” he wrote. But his
style and amenities. Spacious beachfront “Ghastly weather,” exclaims an older bane is our boon. This 14-mile day is the
guestrooms and deluxe hillside suites offer
private balconies with stunning views. Resort gentleman with a walking staff, “not fit ultimate pastoral stroll — without hills
features full service spa, casino and PADI for a living thing.” I tell him we’ve been or bogs, thank you. We walk past the
5-Star scuba diving.
a little anxious. “As you should be,” he Catterick Bridge, Shetland ponies laz-
877-773-9700 / Fax: 340-773-6802
www.divicarina.com warns. “It’s been a sticky end for more ing in fields near Bolton-on-Swale and
than a few walkers on the moors.” down country roads flanked by massive
S T. T H O M A S As we walk the day’s 13th mile, the hedges bursting with birdsong.
cozy radiance of Keld Lodge, a reno- Best of all, Frank and Doreen Philips,
vated hunter’s guesthouse, draws us in. a lovely, gentle couple, greet us with tea
We remove our disgusting boots, and and gingersnaps at Old School House
one of the lodge’s owners, Tony Leete, B&B in the tiny rural hamlet of Danby
greets us like heroes with a couple Wiske. Doreen, 59, actually went to
of cream-topped pints of Guinness. grammar school in this exact build-
SECRET HARBOUR BEACH RESORT “You crossed the Pennines today! ing. “It closed years ago,” she says. “We
It’s no secret why guests return to enjoy
our true island hospitality. Our all-suite
Good going in that horrible weather,” couldn’t let it fall into disrepair now,
oceanfront resort is set among the palms of says Tony. Over dinner that night, we could we?” They feed us a king’s feast
our crescent shaped beach. Studio, one and
two bedroom suites are fully equipped and
learn he’d previously done some kind of topped by desserts and good wine. We
feature private patios or balconies. On site police duty. “Details of which are strictly talk into the night, and I hear a new set of
tennis, dive/watersports, fitness center and
seaside restaurant. Discover the difference!
off-limits,” he says. But now he’s poured life stories nurtured in the English coun-
800-524-2250 / 340-775-6550
his soul into Keld, turning the lodge tryside. We may never see them again,
www.secretharbourvi.com into a homey, tavern-style inn with a yet they become friends for life. “I’ll
sign — “We welcome all” — overlook- rather miss your company,” Frank says
ing the lush landscape of Swaledale. the next morning. “It will be quite lonely
S T. T H O M A S A day later, we exit the Yorkshire here without you.” When Tami and I
Dales and meander into beautiful leave, it’s all we can do to keep dry eyes.
Richmond, an old French name meaning The next 40 miles and four days
“strong hill.” It’s the largest settlement on crossing the North York Moors, our
the C2C, built around an ııth-century last national park, aren’t easy, climb-
castle. Eateries and shops line the huge ing 1,200-foot plateaus separated
SAPPHIRE BEACH RESORT cobblestone square. We stay at nearby by narrow valleys. Walker’s fatigue
One of St. Thomas’s premier resorts with a Frenchgate Guest House, a magnificent begins to set in. Early-morning starts
half-mile of exquisite beach, pool, dining, old hilltop home with massive picture seem a little harder. We eat ibuprofen
complimentary snorkeling, kayaks and
tennis. 171 luxurious, spacious suites with windows that take in the whole town. like candy. I don’t yet loath the sheep,
spectacular views, private balconies, kitchens, “Did you know there are 57 R ich- but their odorous effect on my boots is
living areas. Air-conditioning, cable TV,
ceiling fan and phones. Free two-day car monds in the world, all named after starting to make me nauseous. Still, the
rental with minimum stay. Richmond in Yorkshire?” poses John end is now literally within sight. From
800-874-7897 Barnes, a fellow guest in his late 70s. the forested hills above Littlebeck , we
reservations@antillesresorts.com
www.antillesresorts.com We sip sherry in the great room looking can make out the indigo North Sea.
92 Ju n e 2 0 0 9 ISL A N D S . c om

And by the time we reach the head- PLAN YOUR TRIP: England RELAX after a long day of walking with a tra-
lands leading to Robin Hood’s Bay, FLY into the Manchester Airport (MAN), the
ditionalTheakston ale at the very English Lion
Inn pub on Blakey Ridge in North York Moors
we’re almost prancing. Golden fields of closest international gateway to St. Bees Head National Park. A very English rainstorm out-
wheat ripen in the sun above a white- at the start of the C2C. British Airways has side only redoubles the sense of cozy calm by
direct flights from New York, Los Angeles and
capped sea that fades into distant fog other major U.S. hubs. britishairways.com
the grand, crackling fireplace. And a helping of
Old Peculiar Casserole will fuel another pleas-
banks rolling toward Denmark. We ant all-day stroll tomorrow. lionblakey.co.uk
STAY at Frenchgate Guest House in
reach the old-world fishing village, Richmond, a charming town in the heart of HIRE Coast to Coast Packhorse for
and soon we’re walking the fi nal yards the North Yorkshire countryside. Sitting on a accommodation packages and door-to-
down cobblestone streets to the water’s hilltop overlook, the Victorian Frenchgate lies door baggage transfers. This outfi tter also
within short walking distance along ancient
edge — the official end of the Coast to cobbled streets from the historic market-
provides basic services and support for inde-
pendent travelers handling their own accom-
Coast Walk. It’s Sunday and families place, Richmond Castle and nearby Easby modations. Standard 15-night B&B packages
are picnicking. Kids build sand castles Abbey. Rates from $95. 66frenchgate.co.uk start at about $1,200 per person, including
and catch little fish in tide pools. I feel EAT at La Piazza Pizzeria, a slice of Old airport transfers. c2cpackhorse.co.uk
a rush of accomplishment and a bitter Italy perched above Richmond’s market- PACK comfortable, quick-dry, non-cotton
place. Run by an Italian family, this busy,
sense of fi nality. We wet our boots. I friendly eatery serves pizzas, pasta, meat
hiking clothes. A waterproof jacket and rugged
Gore-Tex-lined walking boots are essential.
remember the stone I picked up three and seafood dishes, a welcome variation Also carry water bottles, a compass, a multi-
weeks before and toss it into the water. from the standard English fare C2C walkers tool, sunblock and a well-stocked first-aid kit.
subsist on. Try the Milano baked seafood
As Tami and I hug, a beach-goer dish combining salmon, sea bass, prawns STUDY your route. The best C2C maps are
comes up to us. “Did you walk from St. and mussels. Complement your meal with the waterproof, two-map set (west and east)
Bees?” he asks, seeing our backpacks and wine or Italian Peroni beer. from Harvey. www.harveymaps.co.uk
The up-to-date guidebook Coast to Coast
fi lthy boots. We nod. “You’ve walked VISIT the Richmond Castle, whose first Path by Henry Stedman (no relation) details
across a nation — our nation,” he stones were laid in 1071 by the Norman French. the route. trailblazer-guides.com
Stroll the grounds, climb the towers and learn
declares. “You’ve seen more of the coun- what daily life was like inside one of England’s LEARN MORE about the route at islands
try than most Brits. Congratulations.” ^ oldest castles. Open daily. richmond.org.uk .com/england and visitbritain.com — TAS
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Islands Mag-Walking Across England Trip

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Islands Mag-Walking Across England Trip

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LAYOUT OK PAGE PROOF READY TO DROP LASER EPSON Prod/Traffic___ EIC_ Photo_ Fact Check_ Copy Ed_____ Lead

Ed___ Lead Ed_ ME_ Art Dir___

TAKE AN EPIC HIKE THROUGH THE HEART OF A NATION

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ISL0609_England.indd 67 4/8/09 5:07:22 PM

ISL0609_England.indd 68 4/8/09 4:44:53 PM

The C2C Walk

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VirginIslands England (from p. 77)

packs two days later to cross the Vale of

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ABACO LONG ISLAND

GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND NASSAU

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