Stylelines

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Classic Princess Styleline Variations . . . . . . . . .125 ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Armhole Princess Styleline Variations . . . . . . .128 PANEL STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Panel Styleline Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131

chapter

121

122

Chapter 6

INTRODUCTION
Stylelines fall into two classifications: those that cross over the bust and those that do not. Stylelines discussed in this chapter are those crossing over the bust, replacing dart legs with style seams. Stylelines that absorb dart excess within stitchlines control the fit of the garment and are called dart equivalents, as discussed in the corollary for Principle #1, Dart Manipulation. The original size and fit of the garment remain the same, even though the shapes of the pattern pieces have been changed through manipulation. Stylelines not crossing bust point are not dart equivalents. The panel design included in the chapter represents this type and clarifies the difference between the two styleline types. For facing instructions, see Chapter 16. Other design variations are illustrated throughout the text.

Design Analysis
The classic princess is distinguished by a styleline that starts at the front and back waist darts, continues over bust points and shoulder blades, and ends at mid-shoulder dart of the back (position of dart point can vary to improve styleline). Stylelines (dart equivalents) replace darts. The design can be based on the one- or two-dart pattern. (The two-dart pattern is illustrated.) The puff sleeve is illustrated in Chapter 14.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front Bodice Trace front of two-dart pattern. Draw styleline from mid-shoulder (in line with back shoulder dart) to bust point and from bust point to dart leg at waist. Crossmark for ease control notches, 2 inches above and below bust point. Draw slash line from bust point to dart point of side dart.
Figure 1

CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE

The classic princess should be developed and perfected as a seamless working pattern. It is a popular base for other design variations. Seams are added as a guide for all stylelines (see page 125).

FRONT

2" Bust point 2"

STYLELINES Figure 2 Separate Pattern Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point (new pivot point). Label X. Cut and separate pattern along styleline.
Figure 2 Figure 3

123

Figure 3 Side Bust Ease Cut slash line from bust point and dart point to, not through, point X. Close side dart legs. Tape. (This provides ease for the side bust.)

X Close

3/4 "

SIDE FRONT

FRONT

SIDE FRONT

Figure 4 Shaping Styleline Retrace side front panel. Shape bust curve, as shown. (Broken lines represent original shape of panel.)
Figure 4

Figure 5 Adding Additional Ease Developing designs from a one-dart pattern or if more ease is needed, slash from bust point to side seam and spread 1/4 inch or more. Retrace, blend, and shape. See Figure 4.
Figure 5

Cut and spread 1/16 " Blend

1/8 " Draw inward curve

SIDE FRONT

SIDE FRONT

124

Chapter 6 Figure 7 Back Bodice Trace back pattern. Place skirt curve on the shoulder dart leg and waist dart point and draw the princess line. Shift shoulder dart point to the styleline and redraw dart legs. (Broken line indicates original dart.) Crossmark dart points on styleline.
Figure 7

Figure 6 Optional Front Panel Shaping To shape front panel, place side panel on top of front panel, matching waist and bust points. Trace side panel curve to front panel from waist to bust. Blend. (Broken line represents original shape of front panel and pattern underneath.) Adjust ease control notches on side front panel when walking the patterns.
Figure 6

Front panel Side front panel BACK

Move dart point

Shape

Figure 8

Figure 8 Cut and separate pattern pieces. Front and back classic princess patterns are complete as seamless for use as a working pattern.

BACK

SIDE BACK

STYLELINES Figure 9 Completed Pattern Complete the pattern, as shown. Center grainlines on side panels.
Figure 9 Paper

125

SIDE FRONT

FRONT

BACK

SIDE BACK

Classic Princess Styleline Variations

The following designs are based on the classic princess. Generate patterns for these designs or create other variations for practice. Use the classic princess if you are an advanced student, or develop the design from the basic pattern. Remember, draw stylelines on the pattern exactly as they appear on the design. The finished pattern shapes should result in perfect representations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Design 4

Design 5

126

Chapter 6

ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front Trace and cut front pattern. Draw line from waist and side dart points to bust. Crossmark 3/4 inch from bust point. Label X. Draw a straight guideline from bust point to midarmhole. (Position can vary along armhole.) Mark 3/8 inch up at mid-point of guideline. Draw curved stylelines from mid-armhole to bust point. Extend dart legs from waist to bust point. Crossmark 2 inches above and below bust point for ease control notches.
Figure 1

FRONT

Design Analysis
The armhole princess design is a variation of the classic princess and features a styleline that curves from the bust point in front and the shoulder blades in back to about mid-armhole. The design is developed from a two-dart pattern with side dart transferred to mid-armhole as a curved dart (styleline).

3/8 "

2" Bust point X 2"

Figure 2

Figure 2 Back Trace and cut back pattern. Transfer the shoulder dart excess to mid-armhole. It will be absorbed into the styleline. Draw a line 2 inches up from dart point of waist dart and crossmark for notch. Repeat styleline instructions, placing guideline from crossmark to mid-armhole.

BACK

3/8 " Blend 2"

STYLELINES Figure 3 Front Cut and separate pattern along styleline.

127

Figure 4 Side Panel Complete the side panel using the princess instruction for shaping styleline (see page 123, Figure 4).

Figure 3 Figure 4

FRONT X Ease

Close

1/16 " 1/8 " draw inward curve

SIDE FRONT

SIDE FRONT

Figure 5 Back Cut and separate pattern along styleline. To remove dart excess from mid-armhole, draw the darts length and width along styleline of back panel (broken line) and trim excess from the pattern.

Figure 6 Trueing and Blending True pattern panels, starting from styleline at waist and ending at armhole. If panels do not true at armhole, add paper to the shortened panel at armhole. Tape both sides securely. Blend armhole, adding to shorter side and trimming longer side equally, as shown.

Figure 6 Figure 5
Close BACK Trim BACK Trim Add

Blend SIDE BACK

SIDE BACK

128

Chapter 6 sentations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again. When plotting the pattern, remember that lines are drawn on the working pattern exactly as they appear on the design. Develop the designs using the two-dart pattern. (Advanced students may want to use the armhole princess pattern.)

Armhole Princess Styleline Variations

The practice designs are based on the armhole princess. Design or create other variations. The finished pattern shapes should result in perfect repre-

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Design 4

Design 5

STYLELINES

129

PANEL STYLELINE
The panel styleline is not a dart equivalent because it does not pass through the bust point. The existing darts control fit of the garment.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1 and 2 Trace front and back two-dart patterns and all markings. Trace front and back patterns. Draw slash lines to bust point. Mark mid-armhole location. Draw panel stylelines from waist and end 1/2 inch from front and back mid-armhole. Draw a curved line to the armholes.
Figure 1

1/2 " To midarmhole

FRONT

Slash Bust pt. Slash

Half distance

Styleline
Figure 2 BACK 1/2 " To midarmhole

Design Analysis
The panel styleline extends from the waist to midarmhole of the front and back bodice without passing through bust point. A short side dart intercepts the panel styleline. The panel styleline can be varied to create other designs.

Notches
Styleline

Half distance

130

Chapter 6 Figure 4 Separate front pattern along styleline. Close dart legs on front side panel and notch at the location. Close dart legs on front side panel. Complete dart leg, as shown.
Figure 4

Figure 3 Separate back pattern pieces along styleline. Draw 1-inch extension at center back.
Figure 3 1"

BACK

FRONT

1/2 " Bust point

Back panel

Close Front panel

Close

Figure 5

Figure 5 To eliminate the side seam, place the front and back panels together and tape. Extend the grainline through the center of the panels. Mark notches at waist and armhole. Complete pattern for test fit.

Notch

Side panel

Notch

STYLELINES

131

Panel Styleline Variations

The practice designs are based on the panel pattern. Generate patterns for the designs or create other variations using the basic pattern. Advanced patternmakers may use the panel pattern to develop

the design. When plotting, draw stylelines exactly as they appear on the design. The finished pattern shapes should result in perfect representations of each design. If they do not, locate the problem and try again.

Design 1

Design 2

Design 3

Design 4