Ace

Aviation

Magic Laser Manual

 MAGIC SPIRIT MICROLIGHT

OWNER & USER’S MANUAL

Owner’s Name:…………………………………….

Address: ……………………………………….

………………………………………

……………………………………….

Trike Serial Number: ………………………………………………………………………………………………...

Wing Serial Number : ………………………………………………………………………………………………...

Date of manufacture …………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Factory Settings:

Hang Point Position: …… Rear position (Slowest trim)……………………………………………...

Sail Tension Position:……… Factory set before delivery………………………………

Cross Bar Tension Position:…… Set at Ace Aviation India……………………….

Manufactured by:

Ace Aviation, Downham Estate Kalhatty 643 005, Ooty, The Nilgiri Hills, Tamilnadu, India.
Phone: 0423 – 2252131 (Workshop)
0423 -- 2252088 (at all other times)

Website www.aceaviation.co.uk
Email info@aceaviation.co.uk
 SPECIFICATIONS

Wing area 13 sq.m.

Wing span 9.20 m
Empty weight 110 KG (With Rotax 447)
M.A.U.W. 230 Kg
Fuel Burn at cruise 8.5 / 11 l/hr
Fuel tank capacity 18.9 litres
Stall Speed 28 Mph
Cruise Speed 38 — 42 Mph
Max level speed 54 Mph
VNE 60 Mph
Climb rate 900 Fpm
Propeller 2 blades Ace Aviation wooden
Take off distance 65 metres
Engine Rotax 447
Power output 40 HP
Carburetor Bing 54
Ignition Ducati CDi electronic
Starter Hand Start
Max RPM 6,500
Spark Plugs NGK B 8 ES
Wheels 4 inch / 100 mm / 70 mm wide
Tyres 4.00 x 4
Tyre pressures Front 16 - 18 Psi / 1.1 - 1.2 bar
Tyre pressure rear 14 - 16 Psi / 0.9 - 1 bar
INTRODUCTION:

The Magic Laser Flexwing Microlight is a weight shift controlled microlight aircraft and NOT a 3-axis aircraft. Hence it is
recommended that to fly this microlight the user is expected to undergo a thorough and professional weight shift aircraft
training and log at least 15 hours of flying after solo in weight shift microlights before attempting to fly this microlight air-
craft.
We also warn that this machine is not a toy to be played with but demands respect that one would accord to any air-
craft. Any recklessness might lead to incidents or accidents which may extend to fatal bodily injury to you and others. Re-
spect your machine.
The search for a high performance single seater flexwing Microlight has resulted in the design of the Magic Spirit
and Laser. With due care and sufficient previous experience on weight shift flying you will have many years of great flying
with your Magic Spirit and Laser.
The purpose of this manual is to give guide lines to the user as to rigging, transportation, flying, storing, and mainte-
nance of the machine to keep the machine airworthy all the times. In other words it will help you to maintain your aircraft in
an airworthy condition. However teaching to fly is beyond the purpose of this manual. Most of the procedures of rigging,
transportation and so on which are detailed in this manual are expected to be already familiarized by the user which should
have been taught in his previous flying experience. If in doubt ask an appropriately qualified flexwing instructor or an experi-
enced pilot of Flexwing aircraft.
The user is expected to have sufficient training, knowledge and expertise based on a good number of hours logged.
The user is ultimately responsible to judge his capacity for the weather and the conditions that he chooses to fly in. He is also
responsible to do all the preflight checks before each flight.
This manual read along with the engine manual which is supplied separately with the engine makes this manual
complete. You can find all the information regarding the engine as to assembly, running in, electrical circuit diagram, main-
tenance of the engine in the engine manual separately. You are advised to read the engine manual thoroughly and strictly
adhere to the procedures laid by the manufacturer. Within certain limits you can exercise your own judgment but certainly
not in case of a doubt. If in doubt ask a suitably qualified flexwing maintenance company or an experienced flexwing pilot.

2. LIMITATIONS:

WARNING: This aircraft must only be flown by pilots who are properly trained on weight-shift controlled aircraft.

This Laser wing MUST NEVER be flown:

• With more than one person in the cockpit

• Exceeding 60 degrees of bank
• Exceeding 30 degrees pitch up or down from normal cruise flying angle.
• as a hang glider
• for aerobatics.
• Inverted
• In a loop
• into a whipstall.
• with any auxiliary equipment without prior written permission from the manufacturer or distributor.
• with any modifications in any respect without prior written permission from the manufacturer or distributor.
• With more than the specified MAUW
• Exceeding the specified VNE
• Exceeding a cockpit load of 105 KG`s Including pilot and baggage.
• Exceeding the load factors of + 4g or - 2
• In a wind strength of more than 15 Mph
• Cross wing of more than 15 Mph

3. Rigging the machine

A lot of thought, experience and effort has been put in while designing this microlight for easy rigging so that minimum ef-
fort is needed from the pilot. The total process of rigging of the machine, that is, the wing and trike from it`s de-rigged state
should take less than 45 minutes including the checks. When you get familiar with the rigging procedure the time is substan-
tially less. By rigging the wing and trike it is assumed that you have already assembled it out of the export box and rigging
therefore is a procedure of preparing the whole machine for flight. This procedure of rigging is the normal way that you pre-
pare your aircraft after you have transported it to the airfield on your vehicle.
There is a separate assembly manual for building the aircraft from the export box.
3.1. Rigging of Wing
First inspect the place of rigging your aircraft and see that it is free of thorns, stones, or any sharp objects which might dam-
age the sail and framework.
The wing is packed in a protective bag. Place the bag pointing the nose of the wing into the wind. Open the zip and
turn the wing upside down so that the control frame is facing upwards. (See image on left). Make sure no wires have looped
through the control frame. Secure the control bar with the bolts and wing nuts and thread the safety rings through the bolts.
Turn the wing around so that the control frame is under the wing. The wing is now in the flying position and into wind.
Now gently open the wing, close to the ground, almost to its full
span. Do not lift the wing tips on the leading edges up away from the ground
by more than approximately 15 cm`s as this will put an unnecessary amount
of strain onto the nose plates and bolts. Any resistance felt during opening the
wing out, stop and look for the cause, tangled wires etc could be the cause. Do
not force the wing open. Look
for the cause and solve the prob-
lem before proceeding.
Look for the cross tube
cables inside the keel pocket. A
rope is provided at the end of the
cables. Pull the cables through
the keel pocket one either side of
the king post but do not locate the triangular tangs onto the cross tube location
pins yet. Make sure that the rope or the cross tube wire is not kinked or curled
around any of the tubes as it goes through the keel pocket and around the king
post. The cross tube cables should come from their location at the centre of the
cross tube plates and on either side of the king post and then directly through the
keel pocket. During this operation check the cables by feeling for any fraying and check that they are not tangled. No wire
should be twisted.

Washout rods
The washout rods are located in the leading edges at the tips. One per side. (This
is an anti dive safety devise). These washout rods are held in position by bungee
cords and can not be taken fully out of the leading edges as they are attached by
this bungee cord to a fitting that is on the leading edge tube. Pull the end of the
washout rod towards the trailing edge and then push it back towards the leading
edge tube and into the socket. The elastic bungee that is attached to the assembly
will ensure that the washout rod will be guided onto the socket. This may take
some practice.

Compression struts (2 numbers)

These tubes are stored in the batten bag. They are 19 mm tubes reducing to 13 mm and just over a meter long. Push these
tubes into the wing tip in between the upper and lower surfaces of the wing. The end locates onto a hook located on the lead-
ing edge. BEWARE TO LOCATE THESE COMPRESSION STRUTS ABOVE THE WASHOUT RODS. YOUR
WING WILL NOT FLY PROPERLY IF THEY ARE LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE WASHOUT RODS ! Please
check this. Attach the bungee to the ends of the compression struts.

Inserting the battens

The battens should be inserted when the wing is slack and before the X-Tubes are tensioned as in the description above in
“Rigging the Wing”. The battens are color coded. Red battens go to the left side (Or port side) and Green battens go to the
right side (Or starboard side) of the wing. Do not mix the battens from left to right.
Start inserting the main sail battens from the tips and work towards the centre. Slide
the battens in slowly as heat can build up and burn the nylon ends. Do not insert the
elastics fixed on the sail at this stage. Do not try and push the battens all the way in
at this stage but in until about 10 to 15 Cm`s sticks out further than the trailing edge
of the sail. The final pushing in of the battens is done later. Once all the battens are
in push the nose batten in and locate the front end onto the long bolt on the nose
plate. Pull the kingpost up and insert the top rear wires and luff lines into the king-
post “S” shackle. (Image on left).
Cross Tube wire
• Pull the X-tube wires onto the first
pin at the back of the keel tube and push
the safety ring in. Then with the X-tube
tensioning tool lever the two tangs onto
the rear attachment holes and locate with
the bolt. Put the safely wires through all
bolts for security (Images on left and
right).

Batten elastics
• Pull the elastics on to the batten ends now. As you do this give one last firm
push on each batten and they will go right to the end of the batten pockets. The
batten elastics go around the batten twice. Pull the bottom of the elastic around the
groove first and then pull the top part of the elastic onto the groove. There should
be a lot of tension on each batten and the elastics should be quite tight. Now put the
undersurface battens in and make sure that they go all the way inside the sail to
touch the underside of the leading edge tube. Poke them in with the end of another
batten so that only the pull string is sticking out. You can generally hear the under-
surface battens contacting the leading edge tube as you do this. Press the Velcro
sealing strips tightly to trap the undersurface battens.

Batten Profile
The profile of the battens should be checked each time that you rig and de-rig the wing. Firstly by comparing that the shapes
of the left and right hand ones are the same with no kinks and with the template supplied with the wing every 25 hours of
flying.

Lifting the wing

Lift the wing parallel to the ground holding the nose and the back of the keel. Take the help of a friend if needed as it is im-
portant that the trailing edge of the wing should not scrape along the ground causing damage. Push the control frame as far
forward as it goes. If any resistance is encountered, check for kinked cables. Secure the control frame with the front wire
assembly at the nose plates by pushing the locating pin through the swan neck catch and the channel. Secure it with the safety
ring. Ask the assistant to hold the wing level by holding the bottom wire front cables. Watch out if the wind had changed
direction and has become a cross wind. Re position the wing into the wind. The rigging of the wing is now complete.

Wing check
It’s the time to check the wing. Start checking the wing from one point and complete a circle and end your check at the start-
ing point. See if there are any wires tangled around the cross tube or keel tube. Look in through the zipped inspection hole on
the undersurface to check that the wires are secured properly and that the tangs are not twisted around. At the tips check that
the compression struts and the washout rods are securely fixed. Check the cross bar junction plates by undoing the protective
covering (This is secured by Velcro
strips). Feel the wires for kinks or fray-
ing. Check all the bolts and nuts which
are accessible that they are secure.
When all this is done, walk a few feet
away in front of the wing and check that
its general profile looks correct. Both
halves of the wing should look the
same. Re-check anything that you sus-
pect that is not quite correct.

3.2 Rigging of the Magic Trike

The Magic trike is designed in a way to minimize the effort of rigging.
First, make sure the ignition switch is off before doing anything else. The ignition switch is off when it is in it's
upward position. Do not use the propeller or any part of the engine to lift the trike. The best way to lift the trike off the trailer
or out of the car is to hold it by the front and the back of the seat frame. The back of the seat frame is a natural balance point
of the trike.
The rear wheel axles swivel forward and backwards on articulated joints. Push one axle backwards and locate the
trailing arm into the U channel on the horizontal tube of the trike. Push the locating pin through the U channel and trailing
arm tube. Push the safety ring through to secure the pin. (See image on right). Push the other axle backwards and follow the
Coupling the wing to the trike.

Make sure that your wing is pointing into wind!

• Your fully rigged wing is now ready to
place onto the trike.
• This procedure can be done by one EX-
PERIENCED person but please get a helper
until you get the hang of it.
• Drop the vertical tube onto the seat.
Place the trike/wing coupling bar provided into
the top location hole on the hinge plates
(images on left and right)
• Pick up the wing by the uprights and
place the control bar onto the trike seat. (See image on the left). Facing backwards
will be easier whilst doing this.
• Whilst holding the Keel of the wing and the trike the coupling bar can now be
placed onto the bolt on the back of the wing keel
tube
• Align the trike vertical tube with the hang
block bush and push the 10 mm bolt through the
whole lot. Your wing will now be secure resting
on the seat (Image top left). This alignment
should be done by pulling the control frame
junction to the middle (Image on left). Then
pushing the vertical tube into this assembly.
• Take out the wing/trike coupling tube
and lift the wing upwards and backwards at the
same time and locate the 8 mm bolt into the hinge plate (Image on left). This can be
done with practice on your own. Be careful that the weight of the wing does not tip
the trike backwards whilst doing this. It can easily happen if you are not experi-
enced.
• Put the front tube onto the trike with the two “L” pins and thread the safety
rings through.

Now everything should be ready to fly.

same procedure as above. There will be some resistance on trying to locate this second axle as the whole wire tensioning
system of the trike is working against you but once the centre position has been found it will be easy to locate everything in
place. The trike is now ready for coupling the wing.

POST ASSEMBLY CHECKS:

After the assembly is over, do the following checks. These checks are necessary before every flight of the day. Always start
from one place, like the nose of the wing and make a full circle around the wing ending back where you started. Then the
same with the trike. Get onto the ground to check certain parts. Make it a ritual to check as many nuts, bolts, fittings and
wires and try not to be distracted by any event especially well meaning people asking all the questions. Pay special attention
to all the quick release bolts pins and safety rings Before you begin the checks ensure the ignition switch is off.

WING:
• Look and feel all the cables for any frays and kinks. Make sure that all the cables go directly to the bolts and are not
twisted around any tubes.
• Check that all bolts are secure with nuts, safety rings in their proper places. Check that the cross bar tension cable is
properly fixed with the bolts and a safety rings.
• Check that all the aluminum and Stainless steel plates components are not distorted such as nose plate, cross bar
junction plates, control frame junction plates etc.
• The tubing components are not dented or bent or heavily scratched. Look through the sail from the tips to see that
the bolts and the fittings on the inside of the wing are properly fixed. Make an inspection of the cross bar to leading edge
junction area including all the bolts and plates. Make sure that the side cables from the leading edge to the control frame are
not kinked around the tangs. There should be a uniform smooth curve from nose towards the tips and the same shape on both
halves of the wing.
• Check that all the battens are inserted correctly and the elastic is inserted on the batten ends for the main sail.
• Check that the compression struts are properly seated on the hook on the inside of the leading edge and that the
compression struts are over the top of the washout rods
• Check the sail for any rips, frayed stitches etc.
• Check that the general aerofoil section of the wing is symmetrical on both the wings.

Trike (The information below for the engine is only after the running in period of the engine)
• Make sure that the whole flexwing is pointing into wind. Chock all the wheels so that it can not move. Make sure
that the wing is tied to the trike and parallel to the ground by securing it by rope to the top of the seat frame.
• Remove the propeller cover. Check that the propeller bolts are tight and locked with mousing wire. Check for any
damage to the prop. This is very important after each transportation or flight. If you are flying from an unprepared air field
small stones can be flicked up from the tyres and into the prop causing sever damage.
• Remove the covering for the pitot tube or ventury tube of your ASI.
• Make sure that you have enough fuel for the planned flight. Check for fuel leaks.
• Check that the engine mounting is firm and check for any cracks in the mounting rubber bushes. Similarly check
that the exhaust and its mounting bushes are OK and not cracked. Make sure that the connecting exhaust springs are intact
and are moused with wire. A broken spring will destroy your propeller.
• If you are using a different engine with a belt drive then check that this belt is intact and not cracked or frayed.
• If dummy spark plugs are in use, replace them with the actual plugs. Secure the spark plug caps. Hear the “click”
sound to confirm that the plugs caps are secure on the spark plugs. The spark plug cap may look as if it is firmly on but
sometimes it needs that final push to contact the plug correctly.
• Check for any loose electrical connections. Secure them.
• Choke is set to off (If a choke is fitted). This is in its most forward position on the Magic trike console.
• Kill switch is set to off position (This is in the UP position).
• Throttle lever set to idling This is the most rearward position from the
pilot's seated position. Be careful! Pushing the throttle lever forward is for in-
creasing the rpm on the engine and backwards is for reducing the rpm. Acci-
dents have taken place often in confusion by not paying attention to this small
detail !! SEE IMAGE ON LEFT

This is the throttle lever position and the kill switch position at all times when
the pilot is not sitting in the seat and when the pilot is not intending to fly the
Microlight. That is throttle lever back towards the engine side of the console
and the kill switch in the UP position.
Continued—Check the following:
• Seat belts are in place and secure.
• Fuel tank cap is tight and secured and no leakages. Tank belts are secured.
• Instrument panel nuts are tight. No cracks in the mounting bushes.
• Front axle nut is tight. No bend in the steering fork. Hard landings lead to bent axle and forks.
• Enough pressure in the tyres. Do not inflate more than the specified limit. See the specification page.
• Check the hang bolt and the safety rings. If needed have a closer look. Make sure that the safety ring is in place.
• Make sure the safety wire is going over the top of the keel and fixed to the bolt at the back of the top “U” channel.
Make sure that the bottom of the safety wire is going underneath the Horizontal tube of the trike and attaches onto the bolt on
the axle plates.
• Make sure that no loose items are in your pockets if you intend to fly.
• You should not wear loose clothing that would go into the prop. Do not wear a scarf as this can easily come off and
tangle in the propeller.
• Check that the all up weight of your Microlight does not exceed the recommended figure. Never exceed the MAUW
of the aircraft. Include the weight of yourself, your clothing, fuel, helmet and baggage etc. Remember more weight increases
take off distance and landing speed. Hence, it is very important to never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft.

If you intend to fly:

• Sit in the seat.
• Never fly without a helmet. Strap your helmet on.
• Check the load of your aircraft now! Never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft. Include the weight of yourself,
your clothing, fuel, helmet etc. Remember more weight increases take off distance, stall speed goes up and landing speed is
increased. Hence, it is very important to never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft.
• Strap your seat belts and hear the click sound of the buckle. Pull the belt and check if it is secured. Push the whole
of your body sharply forward to see that the seat belt stops you. If there is too much forward movement then re-adjust the
seat belts to be tighter. You should be comfortable before you fly.
• Look behind for any other aircraft, people, especially children or animals in the vicinity of the prop. Make sure the
prop is absolutely clear of all obstructions and no micrlolight aircraft close and directly downwind of the prop wash.
• Press the Kill switch on. That is DOWN for starting.
• Clearly and loudly shout “Clear Prop!”
• Pull the starter handle and fire up the engine.
• Rev the engine gently and increase the RPM to 25% power or sufficient to minimize the vibration.
• You should hear a healthy continuous sound with no miss firing or excessive vibration. Gradually increase the rpm
over a period of 10 minutes to around the maximum half revs. Then the engine can be revved to the maximum. This proce-
dure is recommended only after the engine has been run in. Read the Rotax engine manual for more details of how to
operate your engine. This procedure should also be monitored by an exhaust gas temperature gauge and a Cylinder head tem-
perature gauge if you have them mounted on your instrument panel. The maximum settings are given in your engine manual.
• Remove the chocks on wheels and taxi to the runway.
Remember, this aircraft is fitted with a reliable engine but it is an uncertified engine. Bear this in mind during the entire flight
envelope so that you can avoid any nasty surprises.

The above check list was developed by experienced pilots during the evolution of Microlight flying. Generally
check everything and you can develop a system of your own as long as it covers everything and that you do it with a system
and without fail. Word of warning! Your flexwing Microlight will cause a lot of attention by the general public so during the
pre-flight checks avoid other people being around you. Please tell them that you are doing the vital checks of the aircraft and
that you have to be alone for the entire time of the checks. Many accidents that have happened in the past have been due to
other people distracting the pilot during these vital pre-flight checks. So beware!

5. PREFLIGHT CHECKS:

Taxi the aircraft to the runway and stop at least 30 meters from the edge of the runway and at a downwind angle of 45˚ to the
runway to do your preflight checks. This downwind direction is so that you notice all air traffic coming your way. It keeps
you in tune with the air traffic. Never taxi directly onto the runway and do the preflight checks. There may be another aircraft
approaching to land! Keep clear of the runway unless you are either landing or taking off. Do your preflight checks at this
discrete distance from the edge of the runway. If you taxi too far towards the runway then an approaching aircraft may get
irritated or anxious because they will not know of your intension. They may assume that you are going to taxi in front of
them to take off. This would be a disastrous situation. This is not the action of a competent pilot so keep your distance away
from the main runway until it is all clear to move onto the runway it's self.
• Push the control bar away from you and then fully back towards your chest. Push the control bar fully to the left and
right. There should be no restriction in these movements. The movement should be free and smooth. Check if you are able to
access the foot throttle comfortably and all the controls.
• Check that harness and helmet are secured. Double check that your helmet is firmly located with the buckle. There
must be room for easy pushing out of the control bar in pitch for flaring whilst coming into land. Adjusting the seat belt too
tightly may not allow you to fully flare in pitch. Always click the buckle lock to close and to double check by pulling in the
opposite direction. See the helmet is comfortably seating and the belt is locked in place with a click.
• Instruments must be working properly. Check that the ASI (Air Speed Indicator) pitot tube or the ventury tube cover
is removed. Make sure your engine is not overheating by looking at the EGT or CHT gauges if fitted. Even your watch is an
instrument. Make a mental note of your take off time. It helps you in maintaining your flying log book as well as the engine
log book.
• Make sure you have enough fuel for the planned flight. Take a look at the fuel tank level by looking backwards and
downwards to the fuel tube indicator. Fuel may be leaking while you taxi to this point.
• Weather and wind? Make sure the wind has not increased its velocity and changed its direction since you taxied to
the runway which may be beyond your capacity to control. Make sure that you are heading into the wind for the take off.
Check that no excessive thermic activity has built up which may cause difficulty in the handling of the aircraft, especially on
a concrete or tarmac runway. If in doubt ask a suitably qualified pilot before taking off. Use your radio to do this if you
have one fitted.
• Check if it is all clear on the runway, no obstructions on the runway and that no aircraft is approaching for landing
or trying to do a low pass over you. If you carry a radio make sure that it is switched on and that you act on any information
that is given about the air space that you are about to fly into.
There you go! Align the aircraft straight up the runway into the wind and gently increase the power to reach maximum RPM
for take off.

This manual is not a training manual and the user of this aircraft is expected to have gathered sufficient experience on weight
shift flexwing microlight aircraft to fly it competently.

6. Flight:
Besides the fact that your Magic Laser is a nice handling machine and you will enjoy flying it a great deal, choose a calm day
for the first flight. A calm day means with hardly any wind, no thermal activity and with good visibility. Select a big, flat and
wide field without any obstructions in your flight path.
Plan your flight before you take off. Your maiden flight in your brand new Magic Laser should be a local one. It is
recommended that you take off and land after one circuit. Repeat this if necessary to give you the confidence on your new
machine before committing yourself to a longer flight.
Gently but firmly increase the throttle to the maximum. Hold the bar in the neutral position and when you feel the
pressure on the control bar, slowly but firmly push out little by little for your wing to bite into the air. You will be surprised
by the short distance taken by your Magic Laser to take off. If for any reason you fail to take off because of a power loss or
for any other reason and your approach towards the opposite end of the runway seems too close and you still haven't taken
off yet abandon the take off by closing throttle, applying the brake whilst steering the machine straight along the runway and
pulling in gently on the control bar to the neutral position. THERE IS A TENDENCEY FOR THE NEW PILOT TO PUSH
THE BRAKE AND FORGET ABOUT THE STEEERING! Make sure that you guide the machine to a straight standstill.
After your take off there is a surge of climb as the wing bites into the air and gets out of the ground effect. Gently
pull the control bar back towards you slightly and it will naturally find the trimmed position after around 30 feet. Only a little
amount of back pressure is enough just to see you through this critical take off stage of the flight. By this time the end of the
runway must be passing underneath you. Climb to 750 feet or the designated circuit height and reduce your throttle to main-
tain this altitude. Gently turn onto your down wind leg and maintain 750 feet. Turn gently onto your cross wind leg and fi-
nally onto your final leg. Reduce the throttle setting. The turns must not be sluggish but precise maintaining your airspeed in
the turns. All turns should be to a chosen reference point which should be the touch down point of your aircraft.
On the final-leg do your checks. Have your nose wheel straight. Reduce the throttle again to the tick over and come
into land. Always aim to touch down at the 25% point into the runway. If you are too high and feel that you are going to over
shoot, do not hesitate! Put full throttle on again and go around for another circuit. If you feel that you are too low on your
finals and in danger of landing before the runway gently push the throttle on to bring the aircraft into the runway before re-
ducing the throttle again to drop into the airfield and touch down. Make sure your wings are level. As you reduce your alti-
tude and come closer to the ground smoothly push out the control bar against the bar pressure and just a few feet off the
ground push out more and your aircraft will come smoothly down onto the back wheels followed smoothly by the front
wheel. Keep your throttle at tick over and roll to a halt keeping your wings level. Although your flight has finished the wing
is still able to be controlled by any wind or thermal activity that is now present. It is very important that you keep your wing
under control all the way to the hangar. Taxi it back with the control bar in neutral position. Whist taxiing downwind push
the bar slightly out in front of you (Pitch it upwards slightly)

During your flight

Whilst flying look out for emergency landing areas. This must become second nature to you. If the engine stops
don’t panic as you would have already had an emergency landing area in your mind. Don’t waste time in restarting the en-
gine. Switch the kill switch off and chose the best available landing area. Watch out for power lines that are deadly enemies
for flyers. From a height and certain weather conditions it would be difficult to notice them. Make sure you are landing into
the wind. You can not afford to misjudge your height and find yourself too high as you will over shoot the emergency run-
way so you have to get the height correct. It is better to be too high on an approach than come in too low. You can always
loose height by turning the wing before landing. If you have misjudged your height and find yourself too low then there is
nothing that you can do to rectify the situation. Resist the temptation to slow the aircraft up too much on your emergency
landing if you find yourself too high. The correct approach height is one where you can land coming straight in from the
glide or one where you can burn off the height before landing. Practice these emergency landings in a large airfield often in
case you have to use the technique in a real emergency. If you land in a tight emergency field press the front brake smoothly
and then progressively more heavily as soon as you know that the front wheel has touched down. Then pull the bar in to-
wards your chest until the microlight comes to a stop. Concentrate on keeping the microlight straight through this emergency
landing procedure. Check for the cause for the engine stoppage.

De-rigging:
Reverse the rigging steps to de-rig the microlight.

Packing the Trike:

Always have the propeller covered.
If you are transporting the trike on a trailer we suggest that you remove the front vertical tube and lower the rear
vertical tube. Tie the rear vertical tube to the front tube bracket on the horizontal beam of the trike.
If you are fully de-rigging the trike remove the trailing arms on the axle legs and slide the wheels forward so that the
wheels come together at the centre underneath the seat and become a padded resting place for the horizontal bar of the trike.
The trike is compact now to go into the back of a vehicle. While doing all of this, we repeat, never to use the propeller or
engine to balance or handle the trike.

Wing:
If you intend to fly the aircraft the next day or you intend to leave the wing out all night on the field we suggest that
you leave the wing rigged but flat on the ground. You have to detach the wing from the trike for this. Be aware that dew or
rain could settle in droplets on the top of the wing. This condition will seriously affect the performance of your wing. The
take off will also be a surprise to you. We have developed custom made wing covers made from a UV resistant Polyester
which comes as an accessory and bought separately. These covers come complete with ground sheet and wing cover
that covers the whole rigged wing. There are also all webbing straps, pegs and screw in tie downs to hold your wing
securely on the ground even in strong winds. This cover will prevent moisture from collecting on your wing. Please
enquire about these covers.

On the other hand if you intend to de-rig your wing the best is to pack your wing and store it safely. The steps to de-rig your
wing are below. Reverse the procedure for rigging the wing.

a Pull out the nose catch. And lay the wing on the ground.
a. Release the cross bar tension cables on the back of the keel.
b. Remove the under surface battens first then the main sail battens, nose batten and detach the compression struts.
c. Pull out the washout tubes.
d. Gently bring the leading edges towards the keel. Each wing at a time so that the leading edges lays close to the keel
tube. Pulling the sail fabric out so that you can roll it up later.
e. Take off the lufflines and the rear cable from the “S” shackle.
f. Lower the kingpost.
g. Roll the sail neatly in towards the keel tube.
h. Fix the webbing straps just in front of the hang block and at the tips and one other place in the middle.
i. Cover the wing with the bag and pull up the zip a few centimeters on either side.
j. Turnover the wing along with the bag onto the other side (That is turn the whole wing through 180 degrees).
k. Detach the control bar from the frame. Replace the bolts, nuts and rings.
l. Fold the control bar back and carefully pad to cover the sharp bolts which might poke a hole into the sail.
m. Insert padding around the hang block.
n. Fix the other 2 webbing straps And check that all are secure and close the
bag.

Keep the battens separately in the batten bag. The compression struts also go into the
batten bag.

Tuning your wing for an unwanted Turn

Your Laser wing should fly straight with hands off in nil wind non thermic conditions.
It is factory set to 35 degrees of washout at the tips relative to the keel tube of the
wing. The image on the right demonstrates how we arrive at this calculation. Set the
protractor to 35 degrees. Put an 8 mm rod into the nylon tip block and measure by sighting it against the keel tube. The two
wing tips must be the same. After a certain amount of flying, or for any reason you find that your Laser is turning to one side
without pilot input you can do the following tuning adjustments to your Laser wing.
Before tuning adjustments, it is best to investigate the cause. Check to see if both the wing tips have the same pro-
file. Check that the compression struts are straight. Check that the leading edge tubes are straight and have no bends in them.
Check the batten profiles of each batten in turn. Pay special attention towards the last two tip battens which can effect the
wing a lot more than the inner 4 battens. Check for bent hang point plates also check the trike alignment with the wing. Sat-
isfy yourself that all these points are correct before you embark on the tuning adjust-
ments of your wing.
If your wing is turning to the right then your left wing needs to be adjusted.
Inside the right wing tip at the back of the leading edge tube there is an adjusting bolt
(See image on right). Slacken this bolt sufficiently so that you can turn or rotate the
tip adjusting tube. Turn this tip adjusting bracket anticlockwise.
If the wing is turning to the left. Then the right wing needs adjusting. Go
through the same procedures as above and then turn this tip adjusting bracket clock-
wise.
The amount that you turn these tip adjusting brackets depends on the sever-
ity of the unwanted turn. If there is only a slight turn in the wing we recommend that
you turn the tip adjusters by only a maximum of 5 mm of rotation or 5 degrees of
rotation at any one time. Then fly to see if the wing flies straight. This method of tuning keeps your wing in a mild state of
tune and makes sure that your wing always has docile stall characteristics. This is the factory recommended way of tuning
the wing.
In time and with more experience you may want to make the wing have slightly more performance by putting the
billow rings into the wing tips. These will pull out the sail on the frame and induce less washout. You will have a flatter sail
but the whole wing will be less responsive. We supply billow rings of 3 and 5 mm for this purpose. The sail has to come off
the wing tip locating nylon balls for this. You then have to get the wing tip adjusting tubes out by going through the above
procedure of slackening off the bolts at the back of the wing tip tubes and then slide the 3 mm billow rings onto the wing tip
tubes before tightening up the adjusting bolts again. You then have to re-set the washout angles with a protractor as in the
tuning of the wing above. As these billow rings will tighten the sail the washout angles will also be lowered and the washout
angles will be considerably reduced. Under no circumstances should the pilot reduce these washout angles by less than 15
degrees relative to the keel of the wing. If in doubt you have to consult the Magic Microlight agent or a suitably qualified
company that has the necessary knowledge on these matters of tuning wings.

9.1. TRIM:
The hang point bush on the keel of the Laser can be moved forward to increase the speed. There are three adjust-
ment settings on the keel for this purpose. The hang point should be pushed one hole forward at a time. Each hole forward
will increase the speed and as a consequence of this the control bar will be closer to the pilot in flight. The factory setting
comes with the slowest tuning.
To adjust the hang point for greater speed take out the bolt from the front
hole and push the Nylon thrust washer forward and, insert the bolt into the next
hole towards the nose, lock it with a nyloc nut. Push the hang point assembly for-
ward or push the wing backwards. This will be easy if you tilt the wing backwards
(increase the pitch) and then roll the wing from side to side. The wing slowly
moves backwards on each roll cycle of the wing. Then take out the rear bolt and
push the nylon thrust washer forwards to touch the hang block. Re-locate the bolt
onto this hole and lock it with the nyloc nut. The control bar will move towards the
pilot as a consequence of moving the hang point forward and in flight you will no-
tice that the control frame is closer towards you at this new trim position.

The Hang block (shown Left) is where you adjust the trim.

TRANSPORTING YOUR WING.

The Magic Laser can be transported on a Car, or any other similar vehicle. The trike can be de-rigged by undoing the trailing
arm bolts where they fix onto the horizontal tube of the trike. This allows the back wheel axles to fold forward underneath
the seat. The vertical tube also swivels down to meet the nose of the trike by removing the front bar and the 8 mm bolt on the
seat frame hinge plate. The whole trike can be gently loaded into the back of your car. Always load your trike upright if there
is any fuel in the tank. Secure the trike with belts or ropes so that it can not move whilst driving. You can use the propeller
hub to tie it onto the vehicle but NOT the propeller itself. Insert padding where necessary to protect your tike from damage.

If you have a trike trailer then it is just a case of removing the front tube and lowering the vertical tube by taking out the 8
mm bolt from the seat hinge plates and tying it securely.

The wing can go on the roof rack of your vehicle. Make sure that the wing is supported along most of it's length. The only
extra fitting to add to a family saloon car is a bar from the front bumper of the vehicle. This bar must be level with your roof
rack. This way most of the wing is supported. Generously pad the rack with a material where the wing is loaded. Firmly se-
cure the wing with rope, bungee or belts. Tie a red ribbon at the back of the wing bag.

STORING:
In the season when you can not do much flying it is best to store your microlight safely. Store the wing above the ground to
avoid any moisture from getting to the wing. Store in a cool dry place and in a place that is not a fire hazard. Watch for mice
and rats or other creatures. We have seen the total destruction of the wing material on several occasions when left stored in
dubious places for long periods of time. Barns come to mind as being the worst places to store your wing. Just remember that
your wing fabric and seat can be the warmest place for these creatures in an open building especially in the cold Winter.

Store the trike covered on an even ground, wheels chocked. If you do not plan to fly for long best is to remove the propeller
and store it carefully separately.

MAINTENANCE:

Check daily or each time you fly

Wing
• All cables and luff lines. Check for damage and frayed cables. Replace if damaged.
• Top wires firmly secured at back of keel and on the “S” tang near the top of the king post.
• All cable tangs secured to their bolts and fittings. Check for corrosion
• X-tube wire fixed to keel and the wing-nuts tight and safety pins in place
• All nuts and bolts secure with no corrosion
• No cuts in sail. All sewn seams intact with no fraying of stitches
• All tubes straight with no bends
• All plates and Channels undamaged with no heavy abrasion or cracks
• Check wing batten profile with no cracks of heavy abrasion on fiber glass parts of battens
• Compression struts are engaged into their hooks and are straight and go over the top of the washout rods.
• Angle of tip rotators should be the same. 35 degrees is the standard setting. See “tuning your wing” section
• Check for rigging tension — No really slack wires and no wires too tight
• Check that the aerofoil section of the two halves of the wing look the same
• The washout (Or wing twist) is the same on both halves of the wing.
• That the luff lines are of the same tension on both halves of the wing and the “U” shackles are firmly bolted onto the
sail.
• Look inside each wing tip and check that the washout rods are in place and that the leading edges have a smooth curve
and an equal curve.
• Look inside the wing from the X-Tube side (Or Root of the wing) to check that all bolts on the X-Tube are secure. You
can pull apart the X-Tube cushion to see this.
• Check that the X-Tube tension wire is un damaged and correctly routed around each side of the king post and then onto
the two bolts at the back of the keel.
• Check all batten pockets for damage.
• Check that there are no tools of other objects inside the wing. Opps!

Trike
• All cables are secure and undamaged. They must also be at the correct tension which is tight.
• All Tangs are secured to the bolts
• All nuts and bolts are in place
• Check all bolts for corrosion
• All quick pins and safety pins are in place
• All tubes and plates should be straight and free form heavy abrasion and cracks.
• All baggage compartments should be zipped up and no tears in the fabric.
• No cracks in the fibre glass parts if fitted
• Tyres should have no cracks and should be of the correct pressure
• Wheels should run freely. Pick up each wheel in turn and check for smooth running
• All engine bolts secure
• All engine mountings should have no cracks
• No holes or cracks in the exhaust silencer.
• All exhaust rubbers intact with no splits in the rubbers
• Exhaust springs intact and mousing wires in place
• No distortion on welds and no cracks on steering tube, steering forks, engine mountings, exhaust brackets or back axles.
• No cracks or damage to propeller.
• All fuel lines intact with no splits or cracks. No damage to fuel filter or pump. No visible dirt in fuel filter.
• All wiring secure and all terminations secure. No cracks or frays.
• Plug leads in good condition.
• Kill switch in good condition
• All seat webbing in good condition. No frays of rips
• All seat belts in good condition. No frays or rips.
• Seat secured to the seat support webbings.

The above are only guidelines and are generally used for most microlights world wide. Have a definite system when you
check and do not let anyone disturb you when doing these vital checks.

Every 10 hours
• Check the spark plug
• Check the fuel filter
• Full daily inspection

Every 50 hours or 1 year which ever is the earliest

• Change spark plugs
• De-carbonization if needed
• Change fuel filter
• Check exhaust springs
• Check all locking wire
• Check for sail wear
• Check all webbing Seat belt in particular
• Replace fuel filter
• Full daily inspection

Every 100 hours or every 2 years which ever is the earliest

• Replace air filter
• Take the sail off and give it a full inspection for rips and wear. Especially the batten pockets, eyelets and wing tips for
wear and tear. Repair if necessary
• Inspect the whole trike and wing by stripping the tubes, nuts and bolts. Replace any suspect of wear and corrosion

Every 200 hours or every 4 years which ever is the earliest

• Carry our the full 100 hour inspection
• Inspect the whole wing and trike of all the individual parts. Inspect and replace anything that is worn or corroded.

Heavy landing checks

The maintenance on the wing is minimum. Store the wing properly. After each transport check for any dents on all the tub-
ing. See that no holes are punched in the sail by any sharp edges during the transportation. Always suspect the transportation
if minor damage is seen. Its best to check often the battens with the profile template provided with each wing especially after
each transportation if the battens are carried in the wing bag. In case of getting any oil stains etc on the sail, use mild soapy
water to clean. Do not use any chemicals, thinners etc. Just plain mild soap and water.

TRIKE:

Daily
Keep the trike clean. Remove all the oil stains etc off the trike. Look after your machine, it is the best guarantee that you have
of it giving you good service. Keep your battery charged all the times if you have fitted one. Fuel lines tend to get hard and
brittle with age. When you notice this replace them. The recommended oil is stated in the engine manual. Only use semi or
fully synthetic 2 stroke oil. Buy petrol from a reliable source. Always filter the fuel while pouring into the tank. Be very scru-
pulous about having clean fuel going into your tank. Clean the fuel tank every six months. Clean the fuel tank using petrol
only. Be meticulous about maintaining your machine all the time.

Spark Plugs: Use the spark plugs as recommended by Rotax. This is in the engine manual. Do not drop plugs while han-
dling them. Treat the plugs with respect and they won’t fail you when you are flying over a forest or open water. Never em-
ery paper to clean the plugs. Instead use a fine wire brush or a 400 grade fine glass paper along with clean petrol. Maintain
the electrode gap as stated in the engine manual. A healthy spark plug electrode must be in brown color without any oil on it.
Change the spark plugs as stated in the engine manual. Even though you consider it would last longer, just change them at
the recommended time.

Propeller: If the propeller is damaged you can repair this to a certain extent without sacrificing the performance. With a
sharp object remove the loose wooden particles. Mix Araldite epoxy adhesive and hardener 50% each. Leave the mixture for
about 5 to 10 minutes to settle and apply onto the damaged area. Take away the excessive araldite and leave to harden. The
Araldite that we use for the manufacture of our own propellers is a Standard two part epoxy adhesive. Leave it to dry for 48
hours. Then sand off with a medium then a smooth wet and dry paper keeping the profile of the prop equal on both sides and
halves. Use a good quality varnish to paint or spray over the damaged area. Then balance the prop. Balancing the prop is
vital. An unbalanced prop can kill the engine, through bearing failure and will perform very poorly with excessive vibration.
We manufacture a prop balancing tool.

When mounting the propeller, do not over tighten the bolts as you will squeeze the wood between the propeller plate and the
hub.

Engine: For the maintenance of your Rotax engine strictly adhere to the maintenance schedule given in the engine manual.
For major maintenance work like de-carbonization of the engine or replacement of rings or pistons, or overhaul of the engine,
it is best to pack the engine and send it to a recognized Rotax dealer or a suitably qualified 2 stroke Microlight mechanic for
professional work. Power failure or less power at take off might prove fatal. Do not trust it to your local car or bike me-
chanic.

Fuel Filter: Use good quality fuel filters. Change them every 25 hours. While mounting check the direction of flow of fuel.
There is usually an arrow marked on the filter. Secure it properly.

Carburetor: Your carburetor is set at the factory settings. Never fiddle with the adjustment screws unless you are following
the recommended way from the engine manual.

Air filters: Clean your air filters regularly. The air filter should be cleaned or replaced as per Rotax engine manual.

REPAIRS:
Minor repairs to your aircraft can be carried out by yourself. Any structural bends that may happen after a hard landing or
bad transport, sail repair etc must be carried out by a suitably qualified Microlight company. DO NOT attempt this task by
yourself unless you have suitable knowledge.

Repairs to WING:

In case of small holes in the sail, or small tears not extending 25 mm use an adhesive polyester tape on both sides of the fab-
ric.
If the battens have distorted and changed their profile, check with the template and bend them back to match the template.
While doing so make sure there are no cracks on the batten tubing.

If any structural tubing is bent or dented for some reason and is beyond repair it is best to replace the part with an Ace Avia-
tion factory part. Never replace them with any grade of aluminum tubing. We use a high tensile tubing that is specially devel-
oped for Microlight use. Any structural repairs are best carried out with genuine Ace Aviation parts. It is an easier prospect to
buy these genuine parts and replace them yourself.

Under no circumstances try to repair the cables. The correct length must be kept and please understand that old cables will
have stretched so a new cable is essential. It is no good copying the length of an old cable. Spares are available from your
Ace Aviation agent.

Exposure of the wing to the UV rays of the sun is harmful to the sail cloth. When not in use it is best to keep the wing packed
in the bag and store it in the shade. After 350—400 hours of flying it is best to replace the sail. Ace Aviation make Flex-
wing covers to protect your wing for this purpose that can be used outside in most weather conditions or inside a han-
gar. Please enquire for these covers to Ace Aviation.

Repairs to TRIKE:

On the trike, as mentioned earlier in the maintenance chapter propeller repairs to a certain extent can be carried out by your-
self but once you do this, make sure that the propeller is properly balanced. This is very important. Ace Aviation make a
propeller balancing tool. Please enquire if you want one. The engine repairs and overhaul are best done by a suitably
qualified Microlight company and unless you have the knowledge do not attempt to do this work yourself. In the case of re-
pairs, never listen to other general vehicle mechanics, who usually appear to be knowledgeable. These two Stroke engines
need a different kind of knowledge so find a suitably qualified Microlight mechanic for these repairs or better a qualified
Rotax engine mechanic. A sudden drop of power at the take off may prove fatal. Please bear in mind that if you compromise
on the cost and time with the maintenance or repair of your engine, you are definitively compromising on the airworthiness
of the aircraft which in turn may affect your safety.

Do not undertake welding of additional parts onto the trike or wing which may upset the balance and alter the attitude of the
aircraft in flight.

If the engine has to be removed for any reason such as overhaul. make a note of where everything goes so that you can as-
semble it correctly. Take images if possible.

Finally, maintain a log book of your aircraft, separately from your personal flying log book. The aircraft log book is very
useful for you to trace the history of engine running hours, maintenance schedules, problems, repairs and so on.

Look after your aircraft, keep it clean, follow the manual and you will have hundreds of happy flying hours on the Magic
Laser.

Recommended maximum life of all main components.

It is recommended that you adhere to this schedule. It is the maximum required number of hours to change these main com-
ponents.
• Trike. All rigging wires - 250 Hours or every 4 years.
• Trike. Engine mounting rubbers 150 hours
• Trike. Engine mounting frames - 500 hours.
• Trike main swiveling vertical tube - 500 Hours.
• Trike main swiveling vertical tube bushes - 150 Hours
• Trike bottom vertical tube - 1000 hours
• Trike main horizontal tube - 1000 hours
• Trike axle tubes - 750 hours
• Trike trailing arms - 750 Hours
• Trike front forks - 400 hours or when wear becomes excessive
• Trike front fork tube - 400 hours or when wear becomes excessive
• Trike seat frame - 750 hours
• Trike cruise and foot throttle cables - 250 hours

• Wing Main Hang block bolt (Pitch bolt) - 250 Hours or every 4 years
• Wing Main hang bolt bushes into hang block side plates - 250 Hours or every 4 years
• Wing Hang block bush and all bolts - 400 hours
• Wing back up wire - 250 hours
• Wing Cross tube tension cable - 250 hours or every 4 years
• Wing Sail fabric. That is the whole wing covering. - 400 Hours or every 5 years (Which is the industry standard for
Polyester sailcloth.
• Wing Outer Leading edge tubes - 1000 hours
• Wing Inner leading edge tubes - 1000 hours
• Wing Keel tube - 750 Hours
• Wing Cross tubes - 1000 hours
• Wing King post tube - 1000 hours
• Wing control frame and bottom bar tubes - 1000 hours

Thanks and have many happy and safe flying hours. From all at Ace Aviation