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3D printer improvements
From the community for the community, mostly via an Ultimaker
Check my main links. Many of my 3D designs are free, but I can also be contracted to design yours - jeremie francois at gmail
Keywords
bowden tube issue feeder addon consumables heat hot end motor
software electric weird bed
review
About Me
It is not complete and will expand with time. It is no buyer's guide either, nor a technical document. Read it as a short generic survey of usable materials. As for me and many others, I print mostly with PLA filament (see below). Even though I have a set of other materials (wood, rubber, Nylon and so on), I did not test all the following myself, mostly because each material requires its set of specific timeconsuming trials and errors to achieve good quality. Mastering all of them would take me months, if not years!
Jeremie Francois
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If you know me and you cannot tell exactly what my real job is, then you probably found the right Jeremie. Checkzax.frfor some pointers. I am self-employed and I help startups, research centers, small companies with their needs related to computers and maths. If you have a project and know what "R&D" is, then you already caught my interest ;) View my complete profile
Popular Posts
Review: what materials can be 3D printed? Mixed wood and bioplastic (PLA) What materials to 3D-print ? Every now and then I am being asked about it, so here is a post on the ... Review : settings for Cura (3D printing front end and slicer) What are the most important settings in Cura ? Iswitchedto Cura as the unique front end to print with my 3D printer.This excellent s... Homemade heated bed
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
01:52:19]
3D printer improvements
Why add a heated bed ? Do you really need an answer ? You just need one in my humble opinion. After I made mine, I never had an obje... How fine can an Ultimaker print? Ultimaker impressive quality at smallest layer heights (40,50,75 microns) I printed one famous treefrog on my Ultimaker for a friend an... What cannot be 3D printed? Time to debunk some myths! General 3D printingmisinformation: review of facts and fiction! Each technology has some fundamental limitations, and 3D printing is no... 3D printing with a smaller nozzle diameter For sure, a smaller nozzle produces finer details, but how tricky and troublesome it can be! Is it worth using a smaller nozzle on a ... Which hobbed bolt for a filament feeder? My homemade one! Driving the filament with hobbed / knurled bolts My quite efficient hobbed bolt :) As all owners of 3D printers know, one item of utm... Rollerstruder: a filament feeder / driver / extruder The rollerstruder filament drive system on an Ultimaker Almost one year ago I got rid of the plywood Ultimaker filament drive mechanism... 3D printing with cheap Nylon trimmer line/string Is filament quality so important after all? I heard a while ago that trimming line was one of the many materials that was experimented w... Molding and casting with a 3D printer Printing a mold and/or lost wax casting Or how a 3D printer also opens the way to semi-industrial homemade objects beyond artistic sculpt...
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2013 (13) 2012 (29) December (1) Review: what
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3D printer improvements
How nasty.
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Poll: what are the features you added to your stock Ultimaker ?
What are your Ultimaker features?
Here is an on-going poll motivated bythis post on the Ultimaker google forum. So please keep your comments for the forum! I finally developed my own blogger poll system after failures with the official and restrictive blogger polls.
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
Now, read on if you are a programmer and want to write your own plugin. Indeed and contrary to what was being done so far, I did not want to manually insert the M104 temperatures changes in the file sent to the printer, nor stay close to the ulticontroller. So I designed a plugin for the Cura / Skeinforge software pair. Since that was not trivial, I document the procedure here.
When I started printing this morning with my wood filament (~2-3 week old), all kinds of filament issues appeared, while I had almost none before. I soon realized that the filament now is much more fragile than one week ago. First I though I had temperature and clogging issues, since I was testing my plugin forsimulating wood grain.
Update : seller answer, see end of post. Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:54 AM No comments:
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3D printer improvements
Wood filament, temperatures from 205 to 240,home made Skeinforge plugin You probably want to check my first post aboutwood filamentif you did not already. This sequel shows howvaryingtemperatures impacts the color of the filament (as advertised). Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:53 AM 6 comments:
Blind rivets nuts give you a nut where you cannot reach the other side of the support. Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 11:25 PM 2 comments:
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
Or you try whatever comes under you hand to remove the damn molten stuff in and around the PEEK.Of course, start by removing your bowden tube from the top quick coupling.
Review : settings for Cura (3D printing front end and slicer)
What are the most important settings in Cura ?
IswitchedtoCuraas the unique front end to print with my 3D printer.This excellent software from Daid is handling all theprinting workfor you: displaying and scaling the objects, slicing them into layers, sending them to the printer. It will not help youdesign or modifyyour object though.
This is called stringing (overfeeding, bad settings) but it gives an usable part and an interesting piece of art in the end Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 11:18 AM No comments:
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
Twisted Gear Lamp by BenitoSanduchi, printed with Cura at 80mm/s, 0.2mm layers, Ultimaker You may like to read also my post on wood shadesthough temperature changes.
Unusual deep marks left by my hobbed bolt (with a medium tension on the feeder) The filament diameter is not very constant, but it is not worse than the two kind of PLA filament I had. From 3.0 to 3.1 mm, which is totally fine for me. I never had any grinding issue (during the first week of the filament). Some
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
people however report serious issues and varying diameters (read on from this post for example). Note that my bowden tube is non standard, and its inner diameter is 4mm (OD 6mm). This proved to help a lot obviously.
On my first print, I thought I was under extruding a bit because I heard bubbles popping out of the nozzle while printing, and the thin walls where not that smooth. I still should try with higher feed rate just to check how it behaves and if the result is smoother. However the macros for horizontal filling (picture on the right) seems to tell it is pretty well tuned. See how the successive pass really fit each other better than with PLA (my nozzle is 0.4mm). Well, it may not be better, but since the material is rough, it really looks like it is.
The layers are harder to see than with PLA. At 0.1 height, it makes walls almost invisible. But much more interestingly to me, the horizontal filling is much nicer than with PLA. Also, the extruding temperature really seems unimportant, really not like PLA. You just can set almost anything and it prints nicely, but you will get different colors. For this, you need to insert specific g-code manually in the generated file or use my forthcoming Cura/Skeinforge plugin. Also, it looks instantly "dry" out of the nozzle. So much that I may significantlyreducethe minimum time between layers so it prints faster. It really does not look like it is melting the previous layer top when the heads moves over (looks like wet cardboard more than plastic to me).However the layers still stick nicely to each other; may be because of the texture more than because they get welded ? With surprise, I realized I could bend the following object where I could not with PLA. Hence, I suspect that this material will not stand the same amount of stress as with PLA nor ABS. It actually looks like something between cardboard and a springy MDF(it gets a bit stiffer with time, not much imho). The printed object also really can be painted, much more than with PLA or ABS. It really gives a fine result, but not for all uses.
Printed at 222, 60mm/s, 100% fill. The resulting object is quite elastic.
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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Purging : from much heated wood to pink PLA. Disgusting but safer.
I had no grinding at all when I checkedcarefullythe feeder marks on the filament. May be that was thanks tomy bowden tube replacement, or to my own feeder, or both. Actually, even though the filament surface is rough, since the material is smooth I can move it in the bowden tube as easily as with PLA (if not more). Also make sure to keep it in a sealed bag and somewhere it will not degrade as minedid :(
Conclusion
As a final note, I think this material really rocks for artists and designers, and even though I am not an artist, I think I will always have a spool of wooden filament nearby :) Check also how you can get different shades of brown(gradients) by varying the extruding temperature during print. And then, now, I want to go and invest a bit in making my own filament. Winter is coming and I will have a pile of wood dust, together with a pile of broken PLA things.By the way, it even smells like a biscuit :p
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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This could be my new business card, but the clean up is more difficult than with PLA
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3D printer improvements
This post is divided into 4 parts: 1. Trying different material for a cold bed (aka no hot bed!) 2. Using resistors and a sheet of stainless steel sheet (for reference) 3. Using Peltier modules (for reference) 4. Working hot bed with a PCB (win)
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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May be when the market is ready we get heated bed stock with the printer, but for now no design rule them all. Since I also bought me a printer to hack it, I chose the obvious solution : build one on my own too (YAHB, yet another heated bed).
First attempt: make a hotbed with resistors and a sheet of stainless steel
I had an unused RC2C kit around, that I bought when I thought I would naively create my own printer. Then I cowardly bought an Ultimaker ;) Well, I still think I'll use this for a milling machine, but this will be later on. The kit came with these block resistors (embedded in metallic cases that can be screwed on a support). Actually, they were quite bulky and they were chosen for the R2C2 24V power supply. Powering them with a 19V made them heat slower. I used a convenientDS18B20 cheap digital sensor to get the temperature and basic relay, which were controlled by a small and cheap arduino pro mini. I also used an optocoupler to separate the signals.
But the final issue was that I just had no aluminum plate at the time. Instead, I used a very stiff 3 mm stainless steel plate (so hard to cut, wow!). But stainless steel is a bad choice when it comes to heating. It was very slow to conduct heat, and failed quite miserably in the end. The conclusion is : do not even waste spare stainless steel for a bed !
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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Now, this design was simple and clean, for sure. And it was much thinner than with the bulky resistor-based one. I knew the Peltier would not heat much over ~50, but that may still have been OK for PLA. Hence I did not use any temperature sensor, which is wrong... Yes it heated... but only for two minutes before it killed itself. Actually I quickly blew the two Peltier modules. For one, I would better use a fan-based active cooling. But more, I think the power supply I bought was so harsh that the Peltier had time to melt they own core before spreading the heat to the bed (aka reach the reflow temperature). There was no limiting temperature sensor I could check to make them heat progressively : I should have hashed the current flow, and not applied it all, and give more time to reach the target temperature. The conclusion is : do not use Peltier module to heat your bed like this, unless you want to spend a lot on big ones plus proper cooling ! Even with controlled heating to their maximum, I am not sure they would work in the long term. They would not let you heat enough for ABS plastic neither, so it is a no go in my opinion. Since I did not want to burn more Peltier modules, which proved to be not so cheap when you destroy them like this, I finally switched to a classic PCB heating element. BTW, I still like the magic of Peltier modules, and I probably will get back to them one day, but may be for an actively cooled thermal valve. I suspect they are better used for cooling than for heating.
This is a regular Thing-O-Matic Heater Board v1.1, that I paid $20+$6on ebay. It is much smaller than the Ultimaker bed size, but thanks to the aluminum sheet, I do not think it makes a difference in the end. May be it heats less quickly but I get to 55 in one or two minutes, which is OK for me. By the way, I could have tried first to use thin strips of food aluminum sheets instead, or even some nichrome wire just to try to reduce the BOM. But I wanted a working hot bed now!
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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The sensor is a 1 wire dallasDS18B20 (or DS1820). It gives direct digital values so it's extremely easy to interface. It may not be ok for high temperatures however (ie. may not reach the ABS requirements, when you really need high bed temperatures). I also had to cut one track if I remember near the yellow short cable above. You may find it out by clicking on the picture. The cables that go to the left are for a LED. However I forgot to drill the aluminum for the LED to be seen from the top on the bed, so I only can see it from the bed side... This is not a big problem since I hear the relay clicking and feel the warm with my hand. Still, it would have been cool to get some light through the bed.
I tried to think of a better way to fix the PCB, but it works quite well like this with Kapton tape... KISS I paid $8.29 en ebay for a "50mm 5cm X 33m 100ft Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant". By the way, this Kapton tape is really useful even on cold beds and for protecting the head. Larger tape could be nice, but I find it already difficult to lay this one properly with no spurious folds, so I am not sure a bigger tape would be easier. Using an aluminum plate to distribute heat and have a flat bed
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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I drilled with 3mm, and used a 8mm drill (see alsothis useful tool) for the bevels so the screw heads are flush. I wanted to add a glass on top of the alu bed from the beginning, to protect both the aluminum and the head. Talking about the aluminum, this is a 3mm thick 25x25 cm item I got for 5+8 for this "Aluminium Sheet - 3mm x 250mm x 250mm" on ebay. I just could not find the same thickness at local hardware shop, weird. And I suggest this is right, but the minimum thickness for an alu bed whatever you put on top of it.
I think this is my real contribution to heated beds :these pieces of rubber really simplify the bed leveling b/c they provide a unique and quite convenient central pivot, with the addition that the 3 screws no more need springs ! One very nice kind of rubber are the halves of destroyed squash balls ; these are almost indestructible (at least without a racket)... The big ring is to distribute the load on a bigger surface and push firmly the PCB against the aluminum, while leaving some room around the temperature sensor. Its thickness is a bit bigger than that of the 2 nuts on the screws as seen below. I kept the outside edges open so that heat flows outwards. The aluminum may be heated more uniformly this way (which is probably not significant), but more importantly, it cools down faster after a print by letting hot air flow outside.
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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The layered bed as seen from the side. I have just enough room to plug the power and signal cables. I added a cheap black plywood bottom layer to avoid wasting heat, and to spread it evenly.
I did not worry that the wood bends with temperature, since the three screws are attached to the aluminum in the first place. Its main use is to isolate the PCB so that the heat goes primarily to the aluminum, and not elsewhere. I painted the wood black with some metallic spray, partly because I did not want to spend the time varnishing it as the rest of the printer ;) Heated bed final setup
Final setup: screws should be shortened to get more Z volume (which I never missed so far)
Once again, no spring and only three screws made me quite happy compared to the initial setup ! The real trick is the two pieces of rubber in the middle, that act both as a pivot and a spring. Also, there are only 3 screws, not 4 of them. They are 3mm thread diameter, I drilled one hole on the back of the Z-carriage. The front one are in the small and already damaged Delrin stock parts. Next step would be to get rid of the whole existing Z plywood. I have a bit of up/down freeplay because the two Z linear bearing are not clamped enough by the arm plywood, and same with the Z ballscrew (well it's no ballscrew in fact). Soon or later, I will head towards a triangular support made of steel rods, pointed towards me. And may be add a third vertical rod and linear bearing in the front of the bed to make the whole platform very steady. Add an overall oven glass on top of the aluminum ? Finally, I added an oven glass on the top of the aluminum sheet. It was cut for me for a so-called discount price because of its size for about 25 (huh).
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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I really think it improves the setup for two reasons at least : it makes the surface absolutely flat (the aluminum is almost never really flat and moves with temperature) it dampens the temperature raise very homogeneously: the aluminum conducts heats very quickly, and then diffuses upwards in the glass from everywhere
Printing on oven glass or not? Initially, I was expecting to swap between two glass plates in case the parts were hard to remove, but this proved false even when the bed was kept hot (ie. it's easy to pop the object from the glass, even when hot). I added Kapton on the glass, not sure why but I like it. May be I feel that it protects the class against scratches, even though an oven glass is almost indestructible (I dropped it once from about 1m20 on the hard floor with barely a scratch!). I think Kapton also gives a tiny bit of margin to better adjust the Z bed leveling, especially as you'll see the head scratch the Kapton when it's too low... Finally, it improved how the object sticks to the bed. Since the oven glass extremely robust compared to regular glass that I would not want to use, I even used paper clips to hold it in place with pieces of Kapton under the clip jaws. Using four of them forces contact with the aluminum everywhere. This is NOT recommended for regular glass that probably would break (the two material expand quite differently with heat). In any case, I used two pair of pliers to make the paper clip a bit looser/wider. In the first picture in this post you'll notice that I added a dumb plastic clamp to keep the cable close to the printer wall, though I could print a smaller dedicated clip.
The single-power supply setup (with the extended feet I had to design)
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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I bought this power supply from ebay (a 300W 24V 12.5A Switching Power Supply, for $26+28), and then I cowardly tuned it to 19V, as there is a convenient trimpot, and soI could solder wires directly to the power connector of the main board. I was glad to get rid of the old and bulky external power supply, and have everything within the printer. The power supply never had an issue sinceOctober2011. A second output of the power supply powers an arduino pro mini (see the bottom-left case?). It controls the heated bed temperature through a relay. For now it just does bang-bang with a 1 hysteresis, targeting a fixed temperature of 55. There is a dumb off/on switch that goes to the other side but I plan to add some better interface later (eg. 7-digit led temp display + control), or get back to a thermistor and plug the logics to the main printer board so I benefit from Marlin firmware support. Integrate the hot bed electronics to the Ultimaker firmware ? Sincerely, I would not have my hot bed powered by the stock Arduino main board neither the stock power supply. At least buy a bigger power supply, then use a cheap relay (or a huge and costly low-resistance mosfet). And recompile the firmware in order to disable bed PWM (not suited for a relay). I would not power the Ultimaker with anything else than 19V also because I don't want to take any risks, even though some people used 21V (the regulator is said to get really hot). Having separate hotbed electronics and control NEVER was an issue to me. May be one day I will switch to a firmware-controller hot bed, but I would have to recompile it because it will not support the convenient DS1820 temperature sensor I used anyway... Future improvements There is no main switch at all, but I since added a self shutdown circuit (aka suicide), that also switches the hotbed off. May be I will try a safer watchdog with the pro mini to spy on the printer noise or vibration and shut it automatically when idle for some time. My setup also powers 2 serial short strips of leds (2x12V). I sticked them on the vertical walls of the box, and though it makes it like the NASA by night, it is not really the most efficient place. I need to design a printed support and post about it.
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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ds.select(addr); // Start conversion ds.write(0x44, 1); // RequestScratchPad // Will wait some time... prevMillis= millis(); return TMP_IN_PROGRESS; } if(millis() < prevMillis + 850) return TMP_IN_PROGRESS; // Issue Read scratchpad command present = ds.reset(); ds.select(addr); ds.write(0xBE); // ReadScratchPad // Receive 9 bytes for(i=0; i<9; i++) data[i]= ds.read(); // Calculate temperature value *temp= ( (data[1] << 8) + data[0] )*0.0625; prevMillis= 0; return TMP_AVAILABLE; } int initTemperature(byte addr[8]) { //find a device if(!ds.search(addr)) { Serial.println("No sensor found!"); ds.reset_search(); return TMP_NOT_FOUND; } if(OneWire::crc8( addr, 7) != addr[7]) return TMP_BAD_CHECKSUM; if(addr[0] != DS18S20_ID && addr[0] != DS18B20_ID) return TMP_UNKNOWN_DEVICE; return TMP_OK; } void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); ds.reset_search(); initTemperature(dsAddr); Serial.println("INIT OK"); pinMode(PIN_RELAY, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(PIN_RELAY, LOW); pinMode(PIN_BED_SWITCH, INPUT); digitalWrite(PIN_BED_SWITCH, HIGH); // internal pull - up resistor } float lastTemp=0; void loop() { if(digitalRead(PIN_BED_SWITCH)==LOW) { digitalWrite(PIN_RELAY, LOW); Serial.println("Disabled by switch"); while(digitalRead(PIN_BED_SWITCH)==LOW) { digitalWrite(13, HIGH); delay(100); digitalWrite(13, LOW); delay(1900); } Serial.println("Enabled by switch"); } digitalWrite(13, HIGH); delay(200); float t; int err= getTemperature(dsAddr, &t); if(err<0) { Serial.print("Error #"); Serial.println(err); } else if(err==TMP_AVAILABLE) { Serial.print("Temperature: "); Serial.print(t); if(t<BED_TEMP_MIN) { digitalWrite(13, HIGH); digitalWrite(PIN_RELAY, HIGH); Serial.println(" (heating)"); } else if(t>BED_TEMP_MAX || (t>BED_TEMP_MIN && t - lastTemp>0)) { digitalWrite(13, LOW); digitalWrite(PIN_RELAY, LOW); Serial.println(" (cooling)"); }
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
else { Serial.println(" (idle)"); } lastTemp= t; delay(650); } }
Feel free to ask for more info, and, yes, you need a heated bed also ; it really changed my life ;)
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Example: Cura as a smart front end to show, scale, slice and print Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 9:10 PM No comments:
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
The case slot design let me thought it would be easy to remove the filament feeder for transportation, good idea. But... did they forget that the stepper cables are going through the case with no way to unplug them ? Note that the unusual feeder itself is described here. Read more Posted by Jeremie Francois at 10:41 AM No comments:
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
plywood losanges were applying to the bearing and/or the X/Y rods. This may not be significant, and a hole in the object would make oiling the bearing possible. To do so,you can also use the batman derived object on thingiverse! :D
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Isolate the hot end with Kapton and fight plastic leaks
Simply use kapton on your hot end !
My head came pre-assembled but it had a small leak between the Peek isolation and the aluminium heating block, that appearedat high temperatures.This resulted in oxydized PLA liquid (the brown juice that becomes crusty when cold), and it dropped on my prints, leaving a dirty dark trace in the object. I first wrapped the peek and heating element with aIn any case I see no reason to do otherwise now. paper towel. But I had to change it often, and it becomes so dry that I was fearing it could start burning with the smallest trigger. But the leak finally reduced on its own.
http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
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3D printer improvements
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
01:52:19]
3D printer improvements
More links? my curriculum, designed 3D objects, panoramas, pictures, company, and emaiil
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http://www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/24
01:52:19]