Hiroshi Iwata

Kunio Shimada

Formulas, Ingredients
and Production of Cosmetics
Technology
Products in of Skin- and Hair-Care

Japan

^ Springer

Contents

Part I
1

Ingredients and Productions of Cosmetics

of Cosmetics 3 3
'.

Developing the Formulations

1.1 1.1.1 1.1.2 Parts of the

Classification and Categories of Cosmetics

Body

4
4 4

Efficacies and Effects

1.1.3
1.1.4 1.1.5

Purpose of Use
Method of Use

6
6 6 the Product Form

Properties

and Product Forms

for

1.2

Constituents of Cosmetics
1.2.1

Ingredients

Giving

6
7

1.2.2
1.2.3

Ingredients Ingredients for Giving Efficacies,

Effects, and Concepts

for Stabilizing the Products

7 7

1.3

Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms
1.3.1 1.3.2 1.3.3 1.3.4 1.3.5
1.3.6 1.3.7 Toilet Soaps and Cleansers

1.2.4

8
8 8

Shampoos
Conditioners Creams Leave-on Hair Care Products
Cosmetics

8
10

10
of Oil

Mainly Consisting

10
11

Facial Toner
to

1.4
2

Points

Note for

Using Ingredients

in Cosmetics

13
21 21

Raw Materials of Cosmetics 2.1

Oils 2.1.1
2.1.2 2.1.3

Hydrocarbons
Vegetable Oils and Fats
Waxes

22

25
27

ix

Contents

2.1.4 2.1.5

Esters

32 34 36
39

2.1.6 2.1.7
2.2 2.2.1

Higher Alcohols Fatty Acids

Silicones Anionic Surfactants Cationic Surfactants

Surfactants

39 40
50

2.2.2
2.2.3 2.2.4 2.2.5 2.3

Tertiary Amphoteric

Amines Surfactants

55
57 60

Nonionic Surfactants
Structure of

Polymers
2.3.1 2.3.2

67

Polymers

67 68

2.3.3
2.4 2.4.1

Purposes of Using Polymers Dissolving Polymers Glycols Purposes of Using Glycols

Ingredients
Kinds of

76
77 78

Glycols
2.4.2

78
80

2.5

Other 2.5.1

2.5.2 2.5.3 2.5.4 References 3 Emulsions 3.1

Ingredients Coloring Agents

for

Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts

80 81
81 81

Scenting Agents Ingredients for Stabilizing Products

86 87
the Formulations of Emulsions 87 88 89 Formulation of Emulsifiers

Designing
3.1.1

3.1.2
3.1.3

Selecting

Surfactants
and

Selecting Oily Constituents Affecting Viscosity Stability

91 94

3.2

Factors

and Preventive Measures

3.2.1

Separation and Viscosity

Increase 94 Increase 94

3.2.2 3.2.3 3.2.4 3.3 3.3.1

3.3.2

High Temperatures Separation and Viscosity

at at the Room

Temperature

Effects of Salts
Factors

'.

95 97
98

Causing

Destabilization of Emulsions

Emulsification

Emulsification Method Emulsification Device Conditions of Emulsification

98
99

3.3.3 Reference
4

99
102

Sensory Properties
4.1

of Cosmetics

103
:..

Expressions
4.1.1

of

Sensory Properties
Expressions

103 104

Classification of

Contents

x'

4.1.2

Favored Senses Evaluation

104 105
105

4.2
4.3

Sensory
4.2.1
4.3.1 4.3.2 4.3.3

Points to Note in Human Sensory Evaluation

Sensory Properties of Alkyl Sensory Properties

Groups

108 108 109

110

of Oils of Surfactants

Sensory Properties Sensory Properties of Glycols

Part II

Formulas and Productions of Cosmetics 113

114 114

Practice of Designing Cosmetics Formulations

5.1

Soaps and Cleansers

5.1.1

Combinations of
Toilet

Ingredients and Products

5.1.2
5.1.3 5.1.4

Soaps

114
115 115

Cream

Soaps

5.1.5 5.1.6 5.2

Liquid Soaps Viscous Soaps Cleansing Cosmetics

of

117
i

118 120

Shampoos 5.2.1 Purposes

5.2.2 5.2.3 5.2.4 5.2.5 5.2.6

Shampoo Formulation and Constituents

120
121 122

Anionic Surfactants

Amphoteric Surfactants
Cationic

Polymers Pearlizing Agents

Influence of Salts Thickeners and Bubble Stabilizers
,

122
126 130

5.2.7 5.2.8
5.2.9

130
130 131

Ingredients
Efficacious

for Improving the Feel of Use

5.2.10 Stabilizers, Preservatives, and

5.2.11

Conceptual Components Acidity Regulators Sensory Evaluation of Shampoo

Adding Scenting Agents

Components

and

131
131

5.2.12 Methods of
5.2.13

132
132 139

Designing Shampoo Formulations

Sensory Characteristics of Conditioners Adjusting the Viscosity of Conditioners
Basic

5.3

Hair Conditioners

5.3.1
5.3.2

139 140
141

5.3.3 5.3.4
5.3.5

Prescriptions and Constituents

Evaluation

Sensory Prescriptions of Conditioners of Various Sensory

Characteristics

148 153 157

157 157 159

5.4

Skin Creams
5.4.1 Constituents of Skin Creams

5.4.2
5.4.3

Investigation
Addition of

of

Oily

Constituents

Selection of Emulsifiers

5.4.4 5.4.5

Polymers

163 164

Selection of Glycols

xii

Contents

5.4.6 5.4.7 5.4.8

5.5

Formulation of Low-Viscosity Creams Formulation of Gel Creams Formulation of Massage Creams Hair Creams Cationic Hair Conditioners
Hair Waxes Hair Gels

164 165 166 167 167 171

Leave-On Hair Care Cosmetics 5.5.1 5.5.2

5.5.3 5.5.4

173
181 192 198
of Oils

5.5.5
5.5.6 5.6

Hair Mist Liquids Hair Oils

Cosmetics 5.6.1
5.6.2

Mainly Consisting

200
200

Characteristics and Techniques for Designing Formulations

Liquid Oil
Solid and

Cosmetics

201 204

5.6.3 5.7
5.7.1

Stick-Type Cosmetics

Facial Toner

208
Characteristics of Facial Toner 208 208

5.8

Sensory Safety of Ingredients 5.7.3 Properties and Constituents of Facial Toner Cosmetics not Containing Specific Ingredients 5.8.1 Transparent Shampoo Consisting of Ingredients of Vegetable Origin
5.7.2
5.8.2 Pearl

209
211 212 213 214
214

Shampoo Not Containing Sodium

Not

Laureth Sulfate
5.8.3 5.8.4

Shampoo

Causing Buildup of Hair

Containing
as

Hair Conditioner Not

Specific Ingredients
5.8.5 5.8.6

Cream Using Food Additives

Gel Cream Not

Surfactants

215
216

Containing Specific Ingredients

Index

219