Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

The links below are on this page - you can also just scroll down if you want to read them all. This entire page is copyright 1998-2013 by Northern Arizona Wind & Sun. Please do not use without prior permission.

What is a Battery? Types of Batteries Battery Lifespan Starting, Marine, or Deep Cycle? Deep Cycle Battery as a Starting Battery? What Batteries are made of Industrial Deep Cycle Batteries (fork lift type) Sealed Batteries Battery Size Codes Gel Cells (Gelled Electrolyte) (and why we don't like them) AGM Batteries (and why we do like them) Temperature Effects Cycles vs Lifespan Amp-Hours - what are they? Battery Voltages Battery Charging (Here is where we get into the real meat) Charge Controllers (for wind/solar) Mini Factoids - Some small facts about batteries

The subject of batteries could take up many pages. All we have room for here is a basic overview of batteries commonly used with photovoltaic power systems. These are nearly all various variations of Lead-Acid batteries. For a very brief discussion on the advantages and disadvantages of these and other types of batteries, such as NiCad, NiFe (Nickel-Iron), etc. go to our Batteries for Deep Cycle Applications page. These are sometimes referred to as "deep discharge" or "deep cell" batteries. The correct term is deep cycle. A printable version of this page will be available in Adobe PDF format when we finish updating this page for downloading and printing: Most of the charts have small images for faster downloading. To see the full size picture, just click on the small one.

Battery History
Although Alessandro Volta in Italy is usually credited with being the inventor of the modern battery (Silver-Zinc), ancient cells have been discovered in Sumerian ruins, origin around 250 BC. The first evidence of batteries comes from archaeological digs in Baghdad, Iraq. This first "battery" was dated to around 250 B.C. and may have been used in simple operations to electroplate objects with a thin layer of metal, much like the process used now to plate inexpensive gold and silver jewelry. Possibly one of the first uses for batteries, although there is some dispute among scholars. Wikipedia entry for Baghdad Battery.

Batteries were re-discovered much later by Alessandro Volta after which the unit of electrical potential was named, the volt. The jar was found in Khujut Rabu just outside Baghdad and is composed of a clay jar with a stopper made of asphalt. Sticking through the asphalt is an iron rod surrounded by a copper cylinder. When filled with vinegar - or any other electrolytic solution - the jar produces about 1.1 volts.

What is a Battery?
A battery, in concept, can be any device that stores energy for later use. A rock, pushed to the top of a hill, can be considered a kind of battery, since the energy used to push it up the hill (chemical energy, from muscles or combustion engines) is converted and stored as potential kinetic energy at the top of the hill. Later, that energy is released as kinetic and thermal energy when the rock rolls down the hill. Not real practical for everyday use though. Common use of the word, "battery" in electrical terms, is limited to an electrochemical device that converts chemical energy into electricity, by a galvanic cell. A galvanic cell is a fairly simple device consisting of two electrodes of different metals or metal compounds (an anode and a cathode) and an electrolyte (usually acid, but some are alkaline) solution. A "Battery" is two or more of those cells in series, although many types of single cells are usually referred to as batteries - such as flashlight batteries. As noted above, a battery is an electrical storage device. Batteries do not make electricity, they store it, just as a water tank stores water for future use. As chemicals in the battery change, electrical energy is stored or released. In rechargeable batteries this process can be repeated many times. Batteries are not 100% efficient - some energy is lost as heat and chemical reactions when charging and discharging. If you use 1000 watts from a battery, it might take 1050 or 1250 watts or more to fully recharge it. Internal Resistance Part - or most - of the loss in charging and discharging batteries is due to internal resistance. This is converted to heat, which is why batteries get warm when being charged up. The lower the internal resistance, the better. There is a good explanation and demonstration of Internal Resistance here (YouTube) Slower charging and discharging rates are more efficient. A battery rated at 180 amp-hours over 6 hours might be rated at 220 AH at the 20-hour rate, and 260 AH at the 48-hour rate. Much of this loss of efficiency is due to higher internal resistance at higher amperage rates - internal resistance is not a constant - kind of like "the more you push, the more it pushes back". Typical efficiency in a lead-acid battery is 85-95%, in alkaline and NiCad battery it is about 65%. True deep cycle AGM's (such as Concorde) can approach 98% under optimum conditions, but those conditions are seldom found so you should figure as a general rule about a 10% to 20% total power loss when sizing batteries and battery banks. Practically all batteries used in PV and all but the smallest backup systems are Lead-Acid type batteries. Even after over a century of use, they still offer the best price to power ratio. A few systems use NiCad, but we do not recommend them except in cases where extremely cold temperatures (-50 F or less) are common. They are expensive to buy, and very expensive to dispose of due the the hazardous nature of Cadmium. We have had almost no direct experience with the NiFe (alkaline) batteries, but from what we have learned from others we do not not recommend them - one major disadvantage is that there is a large voltage difference between the fully charged and discharged state. Another problem is that they are very inefficient - you lose from 30-40% in heat just in charging and discharging them. Many inverters and

charge controls have a hard time with them. It appears that the only current source for new cells seems to be from Hungary. In the past they were often used by railroads as backup power, but nearly all have now changed over to newer types. An important fact is that ALL of the batteries commonly used in deep cycle applications are Lead-Acid. This includes the standard flooded (wet) batteries, gelled, and AGM. They all use the same chemistry, although the actual construction of the plates etc varies. NiCads, Nickel-Iron, and other types are found in a few systems, but are not common due to their expense, environmental hazards, and/or poor efficiency.

Types of Batteries
Batteries are divided in two ways, by application (what they are used for) and construction (how they are built). The major applications are automotive, marine, and deep-cycle. Deep-cycle includes solar electric (PV), backup power, traction, and RV and boat "house" batteries. The major construction types are flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat). AGM batteries are also sometimes called "starved electrolyte" or "dry", because the fiberglass mat is only 95% saturated with Sulfuric acid and there is no excess liquid. Flooded may be standard, with removable caps, or the so-called "maintenance free" (that means they are designed to die one week after the warranty runs out). All AGM & gelled are sealed and are "valve regulated", which means that a tiny valve keeps a slight positive pressure. Nearly all sealed batteries are "valve regulated" (commonly referred to as "VRLA" - Valve Regulated Lead-Acid). Most valve regulated are under some pressure - 1 to 4 psi at sea level.

Battery Lifespan
The lifespan of a deep cycle battery will vary considerably with how it is used, how it is maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors. In extreme cases, it can vary to extremes - we have seen L-16's killed in less than a year by severe overcharging and water loss, and we have a large set of surplus telephone batteries that sees only occasional (10-15 times per year) heavy service that were just replace after 35+ years. We have seen gelled cells destroyed in one day when overcharged with a large automotive charger. We have seen golf cart batteries destroyed without ever being used in less than a year because they were left sitting in a hot garage or warehouse without being charged. Even the socalled "dry charged" (where you add acid when you need them) have a shelf life of 18 months at most. (They are not totally dry - they are actually filled with acid, the plates formed and charged, then the acid is dumped out). These are some typical (minimum - maximum) typical expectations for batteries if used in deep cycle service. There are so many variables, such as depth of discharge, maintenance, temperature, how often and how deep cycled, etc. that it is almost impossible to give a fixed number. Starting: 3-12 months Marine: 1-6 years Golf cart: 2-7 years AGM deep cycle: 4-8 years Gelled deep cycle: 2-5 years Deep cycle (L-16 type etc): 4-8 years Rolls-Surrette premium deep cycle: 7-15 years Industrial deep cycle (Crown and Rolls 4KS series): 10-20+ years.

Telephone (float): 2-20 years. These are usually special purpose "float service", but often appear on the surplus market as "deep cycle". They can vary considerably, depending on age, usage, care, and type. NiFe (alkaline): 5-35 years NiCad: 1-20 years

Starting, Marine, or Deep-Cycle Batteries

Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge). Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. This gives less surface area, thus less "instant" power like starting batteries need. Although these can be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 50% discharge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The golf car battery is quite popular for small systems and RV's. The problem is that "golf car" refers to a size of battery case (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction - so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably - ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up to true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Deka, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for. Marine batteries are usually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. Starting batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may or may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the term deep cycle is often overused - we have even seen the term "deep cycle" used in automotive starting battery advertising. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open not much of an option.

Deep Cycle Battery as a Starting Battery

There is generally no problem with this, providing that allowance is made for the lower cranking amps compared to a similar size starting battery. As a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery (such as the Concorde SunXtender) also as a starting battery, it should be oversized about 20% compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size to get the same cranking amps. That is about the same as replacing a group 24 with a group 31. With modern engines with fuel injection and electronic ignition, it generally takes much less battery power to crank and start them, so raw cranking amps is less important than it used to be. On the other hand, many cars, boats, and RV's are more heavily loaded with power sucking "appliances", such as megawatt stereo systems etc. that are more suited for deep cycle batteries. We have used the Concorde SunXtender AGM batteries in some of our vehicles with no problems. It will not hurt a deep cycle battery to be used as a starting battery, but for the same size battery they cannot supply as much cranking amps as a regular starting battery and is usually much more expensive.

Back to top

What Batteries Are Made Of

Nearly all large rechargeable batteries in common use are Lead-Acid type. (There are some NiCads in use, but for most purposes the very high initial expense, and the high expense of disposal, does not justify them). A few Lithium-Ion types are starting to make their appearance, but are much more expensive than Lead-Acid and most charge controllers do not have the correct setpoints for proper charging. The acid is typically 30% Sulfuric acid and 70% water at full charge. NiFe (Nickel-Iron) batteries are also available - these have a very long life, but rather poor efficiency (60-70%) and the voltages are different, making it more difficult to match up with standard 12v/24/48v systems and inverters. The biggest problem with NiFe batteries is that you may have to put in 100 watts to get 70 watts of charge - they are much less efficient than Lead-Acid. What you save on batteries you will have to make up for by buying a larger solar panel system. NiCads are also inefficient - typically around 65% - and very expensive. However, NiCads can be frozen without damage, so are sometimes used in areas where the temperatures may fall below 50 degrees F. Most AGM batteries will also survive freezing with no problems, even though the output when frozen will be little or nothing.

Industrial Deep Cycle Batteries

Sometimes called "fork lift", "traction" or "stationary" batteries, are used where power is needed over a longer period of time, and are designed to be "deep cycled", or discharged down as low as 20% of full charge (80% DOD, or Depth of Discharge). These are often called traction batteries because of their widespread use in forklifts, golf carts, and floor sweepers (from which we get the "GC" and "FS" series of battery sizes). Deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates than automotive batteries. They are sometimes used in larger PV systems because you can get a lot of storage in a single (very large and heavy) battery. Plate Thickness Plate thickness (of the Positive plate) matters because of a factor called "positive grid corrosion". This ranks among the top 3 reasons for battery failure. The positive (+) plate is what gets eaten away gradually over time, so eventually there is nothing left - it all falls to the bottom as sediment. Thicker plates are directly related to longer life, so other things being equal, the battery with the thickest plates will last the longest. The negative plate in batteries expands somewhat during discharge, which is why nearly all batteries have separators, such as glass mat or paper, that can be compressed. Automotive batteries typically have plates about .040" (4/100") thick, while forklift batteries may have plates more than 1/4" (.265" for example in larger Rolls-Surrette) thick - almost 7 times as thick as auto batteries. The typical golf cart will have plates that are around .07 to .11" thick. The Concorde AGM's are .115", The Rolls-Surrette L-16 type (CH460) is .150", and the US Battery and Trojan L-16 types are .090". The Crown L-16HC size has .22" thick plates. While plate thickness is not the only factor in how many deep cycles a battery can take before it dies, it is the most important one. Most industrial (fork lift) deep-cycle batteries use Lead-Antimony plates rather than the Lead-Calcium used in AGM or gelled deep-cycle batteries and in automotive starting batteries. The Antimony increases plate life and strength, but increases gassing and water loss. This is why most industrial batteries have to be checked often for water level if you do not have Hydrocaps. Theself discharge of batteries with LeadAntimony plates can be high - as much as 1% per day on an older battery. A new AGM typically selfdischarges at about 1-2% per month, while an old one may be as much as 2% per week.

Sealed Batteries
Sealed batteries are made with vents that (usually) cannot be removed. The so-called Maintenance Free batteries are also sealed, but are not usually leak proof. Sealed batteries are not totally sealed, as they must allow gas to vent during charging. If overcharged too many times, some of these batteries can lose enough water that they will die before their time. Most smaller deep cycle batteries (including AGM) use Lead-Calcium plates for increased life, while most industrial and forklift batteries use LeadAntimony for greater plate strength to withstand shock and vibration. Lead-Antimony (such as forklift and floor scrubber) batteries have a much higher self-discharge rate (210% per week) than Lead or Lead-Calcium (1-5% per month), but the Antimony improves the mechanical strength of the plates, which is an important factor in electric vehicles. They are generally used where they are under constant or very frequent charge/discharge cycles, such as fork lifts and floor sweepers. The Antimony increases plate life at the expense of higher self discharge. If left for long periods unused, these should be trickle charged to avoid damage from sulfation - but this applies to ANY battery. As in all things, there are trade offs. The Lead-Antimony types have a very long lifespan, but higher self discharge rates.

Battery Size Codes

Batteries come in all different sizes. Many have "group" sizes, which is based upon the physical size and terminal placement. It is NOT a measure of battery capacity. Typical BCI codes are group U1, 24, 27, and 31. Industrial batteries are usually designated by a part number such as "FS" for floor sweeper, or "GC" for golf cart. Many batteries follow no particular code, and are just manufacturers part numbers. Other standard size codes are 4D & 8D, large industrial batteries, commonly used in solar electric systems.

Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)
U1 Group 24 Group 27 Group 31 4-D 8-D Golf Cart & T-105 L-16, L16HC etc. 34 to 40 Amp hours 70-85 Amp hours 85-105 Amp hours 95-125 Amp hours 180-215 Amp hours 225-255 Amp hours 180 to 225 Amp hours 340 to 415 Amp hours 12 volts 12 volts 12 volts 12 volts 12 volts 12 volts 6 volts 6 volts

Gelled Electrolyte
Gelled batteries, or "Gel Cells" contain acid that has been "gelled" by the addition of Silica Gel, turning the acid into a solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O. The advantage of these batteries is that it is impossible to spill acid even if they are broken. However, there are several disadvantages. One is that they must be charged at a slower rate (C/20) to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells. They cannot be fast charged on a conventional automotive charger or they may be permanently damaged. This is not usually

a problem with solar electric systems, but if an auxiliary generator or inverter bulk charger is used, current must be limited to the manufacturers specifications. Most better inverters commonly used in solar electric systems can be set to limit charging current to the batteries. Some other disadvantages of gel cells is that they must be charged at a lower voltage (2/10th's less) than flooded or AGM batteries. If overcharged, voids can develop in the gel which will never heal, causing a loss in battery capacity. In hot climates, water loss can be enough over 2-4 years to cause premature battery death. It is for this and other reasons that we no longer sell any of the gelled cells except for replacement use. The newer AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries have all the advantages (and then some) of gelled, with none of the disadvantages.

AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) Batteries

A newer type of sealed battery uses "Absorbed Glass Mats", or AGM between the plates. This is a very fine fiber Boron-Silicate glass mat. These type of batteries have all the advantages of gelled, but can take much more abuse. We sell the Concorde (and Lifeline, made by Concorde) AGM batteries. These are also called "starved electrolyte", as the mat is about 95% saturated rather than fully soaked. That also means that they will not leak acid even if broken. AGM batteries have several advantages over both gelled and flooded, at about the same cost as gelled: Since all the electrolyte (acid) is contained in the glass mats, they cannot spill, even if broken. This also means that since they are non-hazardous, the shipping costs are lower. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and expand, they are practically immune from freezing damage. Nearly all AGM batteries are "recombinant" - what that means is that the Oxygen and Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. These use gas phase transfer of oxygen to the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging and prevent the loss of water through electrolysis. The recombining is typically 99+% efficient, so almost no water is lost. The charging voltages are the same as for any standard battery - no need for any special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers or charge controls. And, since the internal resistance is extremely low, there is almost no heating of the battery even under heavy charge and discharge currents. The Concorde (and most AGM) batteries have no charge or discharge current limits. AGM's have a very low self-discharge - from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging than standard batteries. The Concorde batteries can be almost fully recharged (95% or better) even after 30 days of being totally discharged. AGM's do not have any liquid to spill, and even under severe overcharge conditions hydrogen emission is far below the 4% max specified for aircraft and enclosed spaces. The plates in AGM's are tightly packed and rigidly mounted, and will withstand shock and vibration better than any standard battery. Even with all the advantages listed above, there is still a place for the standard flooded deep cycle battery. AGM's will cost about 1.5 to 2 times as much as flooded batteries of the same capacity. In many installations, where the batteries are set in an area where you don't have to worry about fumes or leakage, a standard or industrial deep cycle is a better economic choice. AGM batteries main advantages are no maintenance, completely sealed against fumes, Hydrogen, or leakage, non-spilling even if they are broken, and can survive most freezes. Not everyone needs these features.

Back to top

Temperature Effects on Batteries

Battery capacity (how many amp-hours it can hold) is reduced as temperature goes down, and increased as temperature goes up. This is why your car battery dies on a cold winter morning, even though it worked fine the previous afternoon. If your batteries spend part of the year shivering in the cold, the reduced capacity has to be taken into account when sizing the system batteries. The standard rating for batteries is at room temperature - 25 degrees C (about 77 F). At approximately -22 degrees F (-27 C), battery AH capacity drops to 50%. At freezing, capacity is reduced by 20%. Capacity is increased at higher temperatures - at 122 degrees F, battery capacity would be about 12% higher. Battery charging voltage also changes with temperature. It will vary from about 2.74 volts per cell (16.4 volts) at -40 C to 2.3 volts per cell (13.8 volts) at 50 C. This is why you should have temperature compensation on your charger or charge control if your batteries are outside and/or subject to wide temperature variations. Some charge controls have temperature compensation built in (such as Morningstar) - this works fine if the controller is subject to the same temperatures as the batteries. However, if your batteries are outside, and the controller is inside, it does not work that well. Adding another complication is that large battery banks make up a large thermal mass. Thermal mass means that because they have so much mass, they will change internal temperature much slower than the surrounding air temperature. A large insulated battery bank may vary as little as 10 degrees over 24 hours internally, even though the air temperature varies from 20 to 70 degrees. For this reason, external (add-on) temperature sensors should be attached to one of the POSITIVE plate terminals, and bundled up a little with some type of insulation on the terminal. The sensor will then read very close to the actual internal battery temperature. Even though battery capacity at high temperatures is higher, battery life is shortened. Battery capacity is reduced by 50% at -22 degrees F - but battery LIFE increases by about 60%. Battery life is reduced at higher temperatures - for every 15 degrees F over 77, battery life is cut in half. This holds true for ANY type of Lead-Acid battery, whether sealed, gelled, AGM, industrial or whatever. This is actually not as bad as it seems, as the battery will tend to average out the good and bad times. Click on the small graph to see a full size chart of temperature vs capacity. One last note on temperatures - in some places that have extremely cold or hot conditions, batteries may be sold locally that are NOT standard electrolyte (acid) strengths. The electrolyte may be stronger (for cold) or weaker (for very hot) climates. In such cases, the specific gravity and the voltages may vary from what we show.

Cycles vs Lifespan
A battery "cycle" is one complete discharge and recharge cycle. It is usually considered to be discharging from 100% to 20%, and then back to 100%. However, there are often ratings for other depth of discharge cycles, the most common ones are 10%, 20%, and 50%. You have to be careful when looking at ratings that list how many cycles a battery is rated for unless it also states how far down it is being discharged. For example, one of the widely advertised telephone type (float service) batteries have been advertised as having a 20-year life. If you look at the fine print, it has that rating only at 5% DOD - it is much less when used in an application where they are cycled deeper on a regular basis. Those same batteries are rated at less than 5 years if cycled to 50%. For example, most golf cart batteries are rated for about 550 cycles to 50% discharge - which equates to about 2 years. Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a battery is discharged to 50% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 80%

DOD. If cycled only 10% DOD, it will last about 5 times as long as one cycled to 50%. Obviously, there are some practical limitations on this - you don't usually want to have a 5 ton pile of batteries sitting there just to reduce the DOD. The most practical number to use is 50% DOD on a regular basis. This does NOT mean you cannot go to 80% once in a while. It's just that when designing a system when you have some idea of the loads, you should figure on an average DOD of around 50% for the best storage vs cost factor. Also, there is an upper limit - a battery that is continually cycled 5% or less will usually not last as long as one cycled down 10%. This happens because at very shallow cycles, the Lead Dioxide tends to build up in clumps on the the positive plates rather in an even film. The graph above shows how lifespan is affected by depth of discharge. The chart is for a Concorde Lifeline battery, but all lead-acid batteries will be similar in the shape of the curve, although the number of cycles will vary.

Back to top

Battery Voltages
All Lead-Acid batteries supply about 2.14 volts per cell (12.6 to 12.8 for a 12 volt battery) when fully charged. Batteries that are stored for long periods will eventually lose all their charge. This "leakage" or self discharge varies considerably with battery type, age, & temperature. It can range from about 1% to 15% per month. Generally, new AGM batteries have the lowest, and old industrial (Lead-Antimony plates) are the highest. In systems that are continually connected to some type charging source, whether it is solar, wind, or an AC powered charger this is seldom a problem. However, one of the biggest killers of batteries is sitting stored in a partly discharged state for a few months. A "float" trickle charge should be maintained on the batteries even if they are not used (or, especially if they are not used). Even most "dry charged" batteries (those sold without electrolyte so they can be shipped more easily, with acid added later) will deteriorate over time. Max storage life on those is about 18 to 30 months. Batteries self-discharge faster at higher temperatures. Lifespan can also be seriously reduced at higher temperatures - most manufacturers state this as a 50% loss in life for every 15 degrees F over a 77 degree cell temperature. Lifespan is increased at the same rate if below 77 degrees, but capacity is reduced. This tends to even out in most systems - they will spend part of their life at higher temperatures, and part at lower. Typical self discharge rates for flooded are 5% to 15% per month. Myth: The old myth about not storing batteries on concrete floors is just that - a myth. This story has been around for 100 years, and originated back when battery cases were made up of wood and asphalt. The acid would leak from them, and form a slow-discharging circuit through the now acid-soaked and conductive floor. State of Charge State of charge, or conversely, the depth of discharge (DOD) can be determined by measuring the voltage and/or the specific gravity of the acid with a hydrometer. This will NOT tell you how good (capacity in AH) the battery condition is - only a sustainedload test can do that. Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less. Specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell. This can vary with battery types and brands somewhat when you buy new batteries you should charge them up and let them sit for a while, then take a reference measurement. Many batteries are sealed, and hydrometer reading cannot be taken, so you must rely on voltage. Hydrometer readings may not tell the whole story, as it takes a while for the acid to get mixed up in wet cells. If measured right after charging, you might see 1.27 at the top of the cell, even though it is much less at the bottom. This does not apply to gelled or AGM batteries. "False" Capacity

A battery can meet the voltage tests for being at full charge, yet be much lower than it's original capacity. If plates are damaged, sulfated, or partially gone from long use, the battery may give the appearance of being fully charged, but in reality acts like a battery of much smaller size. This same thing can occur in gelled cells if they are overcharged and gaps or bubbles occur in the gel. What is left of the plates may be fully functional, but with only 20% of the plates left... Batteries usually go bad for other reasons before reaching this point, but it is something to be aware of if your batteries seem to test OK but lack capacity and go dead very quickly under load. On the table below, you have to be careful that you are not just measuring the surface charge. To properly check the voltages, the battery should sit at rest for a few hours, or you should put a small load on it, such as a small automotive bulb, for a few minutes. The voltages below apply to ALL Lead-Acid batteries, except gelled. For gel cells, subtract .2 volts. Note that the voltages when actually charging will be quite different, so do not use these numbers for a battery that is under charge.

Amp-Hours - What Are They?

All deep cycle batteries are rated in amp-hours. An amp-hour is one amp for one hour, or 10 amps for 1/10 of an hour and so forth. It is amps x hours. If you have something that pulls 20 amps, and you use it for 20 minutes, then the amp-hours used would be 20 (amps) x .333 (hours), or 6.67 AH. The generally accepted AH rating time period for batteries used in solar electric and backup power systems (and for nearly all deep cycle batteries) is the "20 hour rate". (Some, such as the Concorde AGM, use the 24 hour rate, which is probably a better real-world rating). This means that it is discharged down to 10.5 volts over a 20 hour period while the total actual amp-hours it supplies is measured. Sometimes ratings at the 6 hour rate and 100 hour rate are also given for comparison and for different applications. The 6hour rate is often used for industrial batteries, as that is a typical daily duty cycle. Sometimes the 100 hour rate is given just to make the battery look better than it really is, but it is also useful for figuring battery capacity for long-term backup amp-hour requirements. Why amp-hours are specified at a particular rate: Because of something called the Peukert Effect. The Peukert value is directly related to the internal resistance of the battery. The higher the internal resistance, the higher the losses while charging and discharging, especially at higher currents. This means that the faster a battery is used (discharged), the LOWER the AH capacity. Conversely, if it is drained slower, the AH capacity is higher. This is important because some manufacturers and vendors have chosen to rate their batteries at the 100 hour rate which makes them look a lot better than they really are. Here are some typical battery capacities from the manufacturers data sheets:

Battery Type
Trojan T-105 US Battery 2200 Concorde PVX-6220 Surrette S-460 (L-16) Trojan L-16 Surrette CS-25-PS

100 hour rate

250 AH n/a 255 AH 429 AH 400 AH 974 AH

20 hour rate
225 AH 225 AH 221 AH 344 AH 360 AH 779 AH

8
n/a 181 AH 183 AH 282 AH n/a 639 AH

State of Charge
Here are no-load typical voltages vs state of charge

(figured at 10.5 volts = fully discharged, and 77 degrees F). Voltages are for a 12 volt battery system. For 24 volt systems multiply by 2, for 48 volt system, multiply by 4. VPC is the volts per individual cell - if you measure more than a .2 volt difference between each cell, you need to equalize, or your batteries are going bad, or they may be sulfated. These voltages are for batteries that have been at rest for 3 hours or more. Batteries that are being charged will be higher - the voltages while under charge will not tell you anything, you have to let the battery sit for a while. For longest life, batteries should stay in the green zone. Occasional dips into the yellow are not harmful, but continual discharges to those levels will shorten battery life considerably. It is important to realize that voltage measurements are only approximate. The best determination is to measure the specific gravity, but in many batteries this is difficult or impossible. Note the large voltage drop in the last 10%.

State of Charge 100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0 Back to top

12 Volt battery 12.7 12.5 12.42 12.32 12.20 12.06 11.9 11.75 11.58 11.31 10.5

Volts per Cell 2.12 2.08 2.07 2.05 2.03 2.01 1.98 1.96 1.93 1.89 1.75

Why 10.5 Volts?

Throughout this FAQ, we have stated that a battery is considered dead at 10.5 volts. The answer is related to the internal chemistry of batteries - at around 10.5 volts, the specific gravity of the acid in the battery gets so low that there is very little left that can do. In a dead battery, the specific gravity can fall below 1.1. Some actual testing was done recently on a battery by one of our solar forum posters, and these are his results:

I just tested a 225 ahr deep cycle battery that is in good working order.. I put a load on it 30a for 4 hrs it dropped its voltage to 11.2 I then let it cool down for 2 hrs then put the load back on again in 1hr 42 mins it dropped to 10.3v 35 mins under 30a load 9.1v (273w) 10 mins later max output current 11.6a 8.5v (98.6w) 5 mins later max output current 5.2 amps 7.9v (41w) 3 mins later 7.6v and 2.3a (17.5w)

This shows after it gets below 10.3 v you only have 35 mins of anything useful available from the battery. battery is now dead and most likely will not fully recover

Battery Charging
Battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float. Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take. Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts. (The internal resistance gradually goes up because there is less and less to be converted back to normal full charge). Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging. PWM, or "pulse width modulation" accomplishes the same thing. In PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred times per minute. It is called "pulse width" because the width of the pulses may vary from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service, such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts. Chargers: Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. Among the regulated chargers, there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering, PowerMax, and others, which keep a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are sometimes called "taper charge" - as if that is a selling point. What taper charge really means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. To get around this, Xantrex (and maybe others?) have come out with "smart", or multi-stage chargers. These use a variable voltage to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster charging. We stock all of the Iota Engineering battery chargers.

Back to top

Charge Controllers
A charge controller is a regulator that goes between the solar panels and the batteries. Regulators for solar systems are designed to keep the batteries charged at peak without overcharging. Meters for Amps

(from the panels) and battery Volts are optional with most types. Some of the various brands and models that we use and recommend are listed below. Note that a couple of them are listed as "power trackers" for a full explanation of this, see our page on "Why 120 watts does not equal 120 watts". Most of the modern controllers have automatic or manual equalization built in, and many have a LOAD output. There is no "best" controller for all applications - some systems may need the bells and whistles of the more expensive controls, others may not.

These are some of the charge controllers that we recommend, but almost any modern controller will work fine. Exact model will depend on application and system size, amperage and voltage.
Xantrex Morningstar Midnite Solar Outback Power Steca Using any of these will almost always give better battery life and charge than "on-off" or simple shunt type regulators

Back to top

Battery Charging Voltages and Currents:

Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/8" rate for any sustained period. While some battery manufacturers state a higher maximum charge rate, such as C/3, higher charge rates can result in high battery temperatures and/or excessive bubbling and loss of liquid. ("C/8" is the battery capacity at the 20-hour rate divided by 8. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 26 Amps.) Gelled cells should be charged at no more than the C/20 rate, or 5% of their amp-hour capacity. TheConcorde and some other AGM batteries are a special case - the can be charged at up the the Cx4 rate, or 400% of the capacity for the bulk charge cycle for a short period. However, since very few battery cables can take that much current, we don't recommend you try this at home. To avoid cable overheating, you should stick to C/4 or less. Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-Acid batteries. Once the charging voltage reaches 2.583 volts per cell, charging should stop or be reduced to a trickle charge. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat to insure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery. At higher temperatures (over 85 degrees F) this should be reduced to about 2.10 volts per cell. Never add acid to a battery except to replace spilled liquid. Distilled or deionized water should be used to top off non-sealed batteries. Float and charging voltages for gelled batteries are usually about 2/10th volt less than for flooded to reduce water loss. Note that many shunt-type charge controllers sold for solar systems will NOT give you a full charge - check the specifications first. To get a full charge, you must continue to apply a current after the battery voltage reaches the cutoff point of most of these type of controllers. This is why we recommend the charge controls and battery chargers listed in the sections above. Not all shunt type controllers are 100% on or off, but most are. Flooded battery life can be extended if an equalizing charge is applied every 10 to 40 days. This is a charge that is about 10% higher than normal full charge voltage, and is applied for about 2 to 16 hours. This makes sure that all the cells are equally charged, and the gas bubbles mix the electrolyte. If the

liquid in standard wet cells is not mixed, the electrolyte becomes "stratified". You can have very strong solution at the bottom, and very weak at the top of the cell. With stratification, you can test a battery with a hydrometer and get readings that are quite a ways off. If you cannot equalize for some reason, you should let the battery sit for at least 24 hours and then use the hydrometer. AGM and gelled should be equalized 2-4 times a year at most - check the manufacturers recommendations, especially on gelled.

Battery Aging
As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. This means longer charging time and/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge). Usually older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases while the self-discharge rate increases.

Mini Factoids
Nearly all batteries will not reach full capacity until cycled 10-30 times. A brand new battery will have a capacity of about 5-10% less than the rated capacity. Batteries should be watered after charging unless the plates are exposed, then add just enough water to cover the plates. After a full charge, the water level should be even in all cells and usually 1/4" to 1/2" below the bottom of the fill well in the cell (depends on battery size and type). In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel or series/parallel, replacement batteries should be the same size, type and manufacturer (if possible). Age and usage level should be the same as the companion batteries. Do not put a new battery in a pack which is more than 6 months old or has more than 75 cycles. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery. For long life batteries, such as the Surrette and Crown, you can have up to a one year age difference. The vent caps on flooded batteries should remain on the battery while charging. This prevents a lot of the water loss and splashing that may occur when they are bubbling. When you first buy a new set of flooded (wet) batteries, you should fully charge and equalize them, and then take a hydrometer reading for future reference. Since not all batteries have exactly the same acid strength, this will give you a baseline for future readings. When using a small solar panel to keep a float (maintenance) charge on a battery (without using a charge controller), choose a panel that will give a maximum output of about 1/300th to 1/1000th of the amp-hour capacity. For a pair of golf cart batteries, that would be about a 1 to 5 watt panel - the smaller panel if you get 5 or more hours of sun per day, the larger one for those long cloudy winter days in the Northeast. Lead-Acid batteries do NOT have a memory, and the rumor that they should be fully discharged to avoid this "memory" is totally false and will lead to early battery failure. Inactivity can be extremely harmful to a battery. It is a VERY poor idea to buy new batteries and "save" them for later. Either buy them when you need them, or keep them on a continual trickle charge. The best thing - if you buy them, use them. Only clean water should be used for cleaning the outside of batteries. Solvents or spray cleaners should not be used.

Battery Basics How Do Lead Acid Batteries Work?

Lead Acid batteries have changed little since the 1880's although improvements in materials and manufacturing methods continue to bring improvements in energy density, life and reliability. All lead acid batteries consist of flat lead plates immersed in a pool of electrolyte. Regular water addition is required for most types of lead acid batteries although lowmaintenance types come with excess electrolyte calculated to compensate for water loss during a normal lifetime.

Battery Construction
Lead acid batteries used in the RV and Marine Industries usually consist of two 6-volt batteries in series, or a single 12-volt battery. These batteries are constructed of several single cells connected in series each cell produces approximately 2.1 volts. A six-volt battery has three single cells, which when fully charged produce an output voltage of 6.3 volts. A twelvevolt battery has six single cells in series producing a fully charged output voltage of 12.6 volts. A battery cell consists of two lead plates a positive plate covered with a paste of lead dioxide and a negative made of sponge lead, with an insulating material (separator) in between. The plates are enclosed in a plastic battery case and then submersed in an electrolyte consisting of water and sulfuric acid (see figure # 1). Each cell is capable of storing 2.1 volts.

In order for lead acid cell to produce a voltage, it must first receive a (forming) charge voltage of at least 2.1-volts/cell from a charger. Lead acid batteries do not generate voltage on their own; they only store a charge from another source. This is the reason lead acid batteries are called storage batteries, because they only store a charge. The size of the battery plates and amount of electrolyte determines the amount of charge lead acid batteries can store. The size of this storage capacity is described as the amp hour (AH) rating of a battery. A typical 12-volt battery used in a RV or marine craft has a rating 125 AH, which means it can supply 10 amps of current for 12.5 hours or 20-amps of current for a period of 6.25 hours. Lead acid batteries can be connected in parallel to increase the total AH capacity. In figure # 2 below, six single 2.1-volt cells have been connected in series to make the typical 12-volt battery, which when fully charged will produce a total voltage of 12.6-volts.

Lead Acid Batter Discharge Cycle

In figure # 3, above a fully charged battery is connected to a load (light bulb) and the chemical reaction between sulfuric acid and the lead plates produces the electricity to light the bulb. This chemical reaction also begins to coat both positive and negative plates with a substance called lead sulfate also known as sulfation (shown as a yellow build-up on plates). This build-up of lead sulfate is normal during a discharge cycle. As the battery continues to discharge, lead sulfate coats more and more of the plates and battery voltage begins to decrease from fully charged state of 12.6-volts (figure # 4).

In figure # 5 the battery is now fully discharged, the plates are almost completely covered with lead sulfate (sulfation) and voltage has dropped to 10.5-volts. NOTE: Discharging a lead acid battery below 10.5 volts will severely damage it!

Lead sulfate (sulfation) now coats most of the battery plates. Lead sulfate is a soft material, which can is reconverted back into lead and sulfuric acid, provided the discharged battery is immediately connected to a battery charger. If a lead acid battery is not immediately recharged, the lead sulfate will begin to form hard crystals, which can not be reconverted by a standard fixed voltage (13.6 volts) battery converter/charger. NOTE: Always recharge your RV or Marine battery as soon as possible to prevent loss of battery capacity due to the buildup of hard lead sulfate crystals!

Lead Acid Battery Recharge Cycle

The most important thing to understand about recharging lead acid batteries is that a converter/charger with a single fixed output voltage will not properly recharge or maintain your battery. Proper recharging and maintenance requires an intelligent charging system that can vary the charging voltage based on the state of charge and use of your RV or Marine battery. Progressive Dynamics has developed intelligent charging systems that solve battery problems and reduce battery maintenance. The discharged battery shown in figure # 6 on the next page is connected to a converter/charger with its output voltage set at 13.6-volts. In order to recharge a 12-volt lead acid battery with a fully charged terminal voltage of 12.6-volts, the charger voltage must be set at a higher voltage. Most converter/chargers on the market are set at approximately 13.6-volts. During the battery recharge cycle lead sulfate (sulfation) begins to reconvert to lead and sulfuric acid.

During the recharging process as electricity flows through the water portion of the electrolyte and water, (H2O) is converted into its original elements, hydrogen and oxygen. These gasses are very flammable and the reason your RV or Marine batteries must be vented outside. Gassing causes water loss and therefore lead acid batteries need to have water added periodically. Sealed lead acid batteries contain most of these gasses allowing them to recombine into the electrolyte. If the battery is overcharged pressure from these gasses will cause relief caps to open and vent, resulting in some water loss. Most sealed batteries have extra electrolyte added during the manufacturing process to compensate for some water loss.

The battery shown in figure # 7 above has been fully recharged using a fixed charging voltage of 13.6-volts. Notice that somelead sulfate (sulfation) still remains on the plates. This build-up will continue after each recharging cycle and gradually the battery will begin to loose capacity to store a full charge and eventually must be replaced. Lead sulfate build up is reduced if battery is given an Equalizing Charge once every 10 discharge cycles or at least once a month. An Equalizing Chargeincreases charging voltage to 14.4 volts or higher for a short period. This higher voltage causes gassing that equalizes (re-mixes) the electrolyte solution. Since most RV and Marine craft owners seldom remember to perform this function, Progressive Dynamics has developed the microprocessor controlled Charge Wizard. The Charge Wizard will automatically provide an Equalizing Charge every 21

hours for a period of 15 minutes, when the battery is fully charged and not in use. Our 2000 Series of Marine Battery Chargers have the Charge Wizard feature built-in. One disadvantage of recharging a lead acid battery at a fixed voltage of 13.6-volts is the recharge time is very long. A typical 125-AH RV or Marine battery will take approximately 80 hours to recharge at 13.6 volts. Increasing the charge voltage to 14.4-volts will reduce battery recharge time for a 125-AH battery to 3-4 hours. Once a battery reaches 90% of full charge, thevoltage must be reduced from 14.4-volts to 13.6-volts to reduce gassing and water loss. The optional Charge Wizardautomatically senses when a battery has a very low state of charge and automatically selects its BOOST MODE of operation.BOOST MODE increases the voltage of a PD9100 Series converter/charger to 14.4 volts. When the battery reaches the 90% charge level, the Charge Wizard automatically reduces the charge voltage down to 13.6 volts to complete the charge. Again, this is a standard feature on our Marine Chargers. Another disadvantage of recharging a lead acid battery at a fixed voltage of 13.6-volts is that once it is fully charged, 13.6 volts will cause considerable gassing and water loss. To prevent this from occurring the charging voltage must be reduced to 13.2-volts. The Charge Wizard will automatically select its STORAGE MODE of operation (13.2-volts) once the battery reaches full charge and remains unused for a period of 30 hours. This feature is standard on all of Progressive Dynamics Marine Battery Chargers. At a charging voltage of 13.2 volts, the converter/charger will maintain a full charge, reduce gassing and water loss. However, this lower voltage does not provide enough gassing to prevent a battery condition called Battery Stratification. Battery Stratification is caused by the fact that the electrolyte in the battery is a mixture of water and acid and, like all mixtures, one component, the acid, is heavier than water. Therefore, acid will begin to settle and concentrate at the bottom of the battery (see figure #8).

This higher concentration of acid at the bottom of the battery causes additional build-up of lead sulfate (sulfation), which reduces battery storage capacity and battery life. In order to prevent Battery Stratification, an Equalization Charge(increasing charging voltage to 14.4-volts) must be applied periodically. The Charge Wizard automatically selects itsEQUALIZATION MODE (14.4 volts) every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes. This Equalizing Charge feature is standard on our Marine chargers. As you have learned, in order to properly charge and maintain a lead acid battery you must use an intelligent charging system. Progressive Dynamics, Inteli-Power 9100 Series RV converters with a Charge Wizard installed, or one of our Inteli-Power Marine Battery Chargers will provide the intelligent charging system your battery needs for a long life, with low maintenance.

Answers to Common Questions about Batteries

Do lead acid batteries discharge when not in use?

All batteries, regardless of their chemistry, will self-discharge. The rate of self-discharge for lead acid batteries depends on the storage or operating temperature. At a temperature of 80 degrees F. a lead acid battery will self-discharge at a rate of approximately 4% a week. A battery with a 125-amp hour rating would self-discharge at a rate of approximately five amps per week. Keeping this in mind if a 125 AH battery is stored for four months (16 weeks) winter without being charged, it will loose 80 amps of its 125-amp capacity. It will also have severe sulfation, which causes additional loss of capacity. Keep your batteries charged while not in use! Do lead acid batteries develop a memory? Lead acid batteries do not develop any type of memory. Do I need to completely discharge my lead acid battery before recharging it? No, in fact you should never discharge your lead acid battery below 80% of its rated capacity. Discharging it below this point or 10.5 volts can damage it. When do I need to perform an equalization charge? Equalizing should be performed when a battery is first purchased (called a freshening charge) and on a regular basis (every 10 discharge cycles or at least once a month). Reduced performance can also be an indicator that an equalizing charge is needed. What is an equalizing charge? An equalizing charge for a 12 volt battery requires that it be charged with a voltage of at least 14.4 volts for a period of at least one hour once a month, or every 10 discharge cycles. An equalizing charge prevents battery stratification and reduces sulfation, the leading cause of battery failure. When should I add water to my batteries? How often you use and recharge your batteries will determine the frequency of watering. Also, using batteries in a hot climate will require more frequent watering. It is best to check your battery water level frequently and add distilled water when needed. Never add tap water to your battery. Tap water contains minerals that will reduce battery capacity and increase their self-discharge rate. Warning - A brand new battery may have a low electrolyte level. Charge the battery first and then add water if needed. Adding water to a battery before charging may result in overflow of the electrolyte. What is the proper electrolyte level? Battery electrolyte levels should be just below the bottom of the vent well, about - inch above the tops of the separators. Never let the electrolyte level to drop below the top of the plates. Do I ever need to add acid to my battery? Under normal operating conditions, you never need to add acid. Only distilled or deionized water should be added to achieve the recommended electrolyte levels. Can my batteries freeze? If your battery is partially discharged, the electrolyte in a lead acid battery may freeze. At a 40% state of charge, electrolyte will freeze if the temperature drops to approximately -16 degrees F. When a battery is fully charged the electrolyte will not freeze until the temperature drops to approximately -92 degrees F. What are the most common mistakes made by owners of lead acid batteries?

Undercharging - Generally caused by not allowing the charger to restore the battery to full charge after use. Continuously operating a battery in a partial state of charge, or storing the battery in the discharged state results in the formation of lead sulfate (sulfation) on the plates. Sulfation reduces the performance of the battery and may cause premature battery failure.

Overcharging - Continuous-charging causes accelerated corrosion of the positive plates, excessive water consumption and in some cases, damaging temperatures within the battery. Lead acid batteries should be charged after each discharge of more the 50% of its rated capacity and during or after prolonged storage of 30 days or more.

Under-watering - In lead acid batteries water is lost during the charging process. If the electrolyte level drops below the tops of the plates, irreparable damage may occur. Check your battery water level frequently. Over-watering - Excessive watering of a battery results in additional dilution of the electrolyte, resulting in reduced battery performance. Add water to your battery after it has been fully charged, never when the battery is partially discharged.

Can I reduce the need to add water to my battery by lowering the charging voltage to 13 volts or less? Lowering the charging voltage will reduce the need to add water, but this will cause a condition known as battery stratification. Battery stratification is caused when the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte mixture separates from the water and begins to concentrate at the bottom of the battery. This increased concentration of acid increases the formation of lead sulfate (sulfation). To prevent stratification, your battery should receive a periodic equalizing charge (increasing the charging voltage to 14.4 volts or above).

Battery Management 101

A Basic Guide to Understanding Lead-Acid Battery Charging and Maintenance Requirements.
Many RV owners may not have the technical background to understand the operation of their battery charger. Sometimes they forget about the need to maintain the battery water level and to keep it fully charged when their RV is in storage. RV owners do however remember the consequences of improper battery charging and maintenan cea dead battery that is expensive to replace! The following analogy uses the flow of water from a Charger Tank (battery charger) to fill (recharge) a Battery Tank (battery) to simulate a battery recharging cycle. The goal is to fill (recharge) the Battery Tank as fast as possible, while keeping water loss to a minimum. The same goal you have when recharging your RV battery. This analogy explains the need to constantly monitor and adjust the flow rate to prevent water loss. Battery chargers also require voltage adjustments during the recharge cycle to reduce water loss. The small leak at the bottom of Battery Tank represents the small internal current leak present in all lead acid batteries. This internal current leak self-discharges your RV battery approximately 4% per week, thus the need to charge your battery periodically when in storage. At the start, both tanks shown below are at the same height, 12.6 feet; therefore, water (amps) in the Charger Tank will not flow into Battery Tank. Water will only flow if the height of Charger Tank is increased. Remember when recharging your RV batteries the charger voltage must also be higher than battery voltage to allow charging current to flow.Typical converters/chargers used in the RV Industry have a fixed output voltage of 13.6 volts.

As Battery Tank begins to approach the 90% Full Level the Charger Tank must be lowered to 13.6-Ft. (figure # 4) to prevent excess splashing and water loss over the top. The Battery Tank would then complete the fill at this slower rate.

In figure # 5 the Battery Tank is now full, but the Charger Tank continues to remain at 13.6-Ft. This causes more water to flow than required to maintain a full level in the tank. This excess water is lost as it splashes out the top of the Battery Tank.

To reduce water loss even more, once the Battery Tank is fully charged the height of Charger Tank must lowered to 13.2Ft. This lower height reduces the flow from the Charger Tank so that it just equals water lost due to the leak at the bottom of Battery Tank.

As you have seen filling a Battery Tank as fast as possible with minimum loss of water, requires several adjustments to the height of the Charger Tank. First, it has to be raised to 14.4 feet to refill as fast as possible. Then it must be lowered to 13.6 feet to finish the fill with minimum water loss. Once the tank is full, you have to lower it again to 13.2 feet to reduce water loss even further. Proper recharging of RV and Marine batteries also requires charger voltage adjustments during charging cycle to accomplish these same benefits. Unfortunately, most battery converter/chargers on the market today have a fixed output voltage of 13.6 volts and can not be adjusted. It would be nice if someone created a robot called the "Battery Butler" that automatically came around every week to check and adjust your battery system. Well someone has, Progressive Dynamics developed a microprocessor based programmercontroller for our electronic power converters. This device proved to be so intelligent, we called it the Charge Wizard, because it automatically adjusts the charging voltage as required by the battery to ensure fast recharge cycles, with minimum water loss.

Now that you understand the requirements for properly filling a tank with water, it is time to learn more about the construction operation and recharge requirements of your RV and Marine lead acid batteries.

How do Lead-Acid Batteries Work?

The lead-acid battery shown below in Figure # 7 consists of a single cell composed of two lead plates. One plate is Positive and is made of Lead Dioxide. The other plate is Negative and made of Sponge Lead. These plates are surrounded by the electrolyte, a mixture of water and sulfuric acid. The cell shown is capable of storing a voltage of 2.1 volts once it is charged...THIS IS THE REASON LEAD-ACID BATTERIES ARE CALLED STORAGE BATTERIES, they store a charge.

Since a single lead-acid cell only produces 2.1; volts, six (6) cells must be connected in series to create the typical RV or marine battery (see Figure # 8 below). Six cells connected in series will provide a total voltage output of 12.6-volts. The standard RV battery (shown below) has an output voltage of 12.6 volts, when fully charged!

The Battery Discharge Cycle

In figure # 9 below, the battery is partially discharged and Lead Sulfate (sulfation) has begun to coat both lead plates. The output voltage of the battery has dropped to 12.3 volts.

In figure # 10 below, the battery has now been discharged to 50% of its total capacity. The Lead Sulfate (sulfation) is now covering more of the surface area of the plates. The battery voltage has dropped to 12.1 volts.

Figure #11 below illustrates a fully discharged battery and the voltage has dropped to 10.5 volts. Battery Management 101 now completely covers the surface of all plates. Initially the Lead Sulfate coating is soft, thin and easily reconverted into lead and sulfuric acid when battery is recharged. It is important to remember, The longer your battery remains discharged, the more it will begin to form hard crystals of Lead SulfateRECHARGE YOUR BATTERY AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!Once these hard crystals form, they are impossible to remove during a standard fixed voltage (13.6 volts) charging process.

Now that the battery is completely discharged it is time to discuss the recharge cycle. Remember, when recharging your RV battery the goal is to recharge it as fast as possible without excess water loss.

Recharging Lead Acid Batteries with the Charge Wizard

In figure # 12 below, the battery is in the process of being recharged. The Charge Wizard has detected the battery is very low and has automatically selected BOOST MODE (14.4 volts), of operation to return battery to 90% of full charge in 2-3 hours.

In figure # 13, the battery has reached the 90% of full charge level. The Charge Wizard has reduced charging voltage to 13.6 volts to prevent excess battery gassing and water loss. The remaining 10% of charge cycle will be completed at this lower voltage.

When the battery reaches full charge (figure # 14), charging voltage must be reduced to 13.2 volts. This lower voltage reduces charging current to 20 to 25 milliamps, enough to replace current lost through the internal leakage present in all batteries. The Charge Wizard knows this and automatically selects STORAGE MODE of operation and reduces charger voltage to 13.2 volts.

IMPORTANT - WHEN STORING RV OR MARINE BATTERIES FOR THE WINTER, KEEP THEM ON A CONTINUOUS CHARGE
AT 13.2 VOLTS. CHECK WATER LEVEL AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH AND ADD DISTILLED WATER AS NEEDED.

When electrical current flows through water during the charging cycle, it breaks the water down into its original components, a mixture of Hydrogen & Oxygen. These two gasses are extremely flammable and can cause an explosion if the battery is not properly vented to the outside of the RV. This normal conversion of water into hydrogen and oxygen is part of the battery recharge cycle and is another reason you should check the battery water level at least once a month.

Other Battery Maintenance Problems Solved by the Charge Wizard

Even after receiving a full charge, notice that near the bottom of the battery, some of the Lead Sulfate has not converted back into lead and sulfuric acid. This remaining Lead Sulfate has formed hard crystals that can not be easily reconverted. These hard crystals are the beginning of BATTERY SULFATION, the leading cause of battery failure. To remove the remaining Lead Sulfate, the battery must receive an EQUALIZING CHARGE (i.e. increase the charging voltage to 14.4 volts or higher periodically for a short time). This equalizing charge will eventually convert this crystallized Lead Sulfateinto its components (lead and sulfuric acid).

Problem solved the Charge Wizard automatically provides an EQUALIZING CHARGE that increases charging voltage from 13.2 to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes every 21 hours, when operating in the STORAGE MODE. The Charge Wizard's EQUALIZATION MODE automatically eliminates BATTERY SULFATION BUILD-UP before it becomes a problem! Remember that the rate ofSULFATION increases rapidly as a battery dischargesso keep your battery fully charged when not in use! Now that you have seen what the Charge Wizard can do to improve battery recharge time, adjust charge voltages to reduce water loss, and eliminate sulfation, its time to eliminate the last of the battery plaguesBATTERY STRATIFICATION! What is BATTERY STRATIFICATION? You learned previously that the electrolyte inside a battery is a mixture of water and sulfuric acid and like all mixtures, one component is heavier than the other is. In this case Sulfuric Acid is the heavy component and will eventually begin to settle to the bottom of the battery. This process is called STRATIFICATION!Stratification will increase build-up of lead sulfate and reduce battery capacity.

The way to prevent BATTERY STRATIFICATION is to apply an EQUALIZING CHARGE (i.e. increase charging voltage to 14.4 volts) to your fully charged battery for a short period at least once a month. This EQUALIZING CHARGE will cause heavy gassing. This heavy gassing mixes up the electrolyte and equalizes the water/sulfuric acid mix. Equalizing also breaks down lead sulfate crystals that may have begun to form. The Charge Wizard automatically Equalizes your battery for 15 minutes every 21 hours, when in the STORAGE MODE to prevent BATTERY STRATIFICATION.

As you have learned, the Charge Wizard is a very valuable addition to your battery charging system and it will eliminate battery problems. Charge Wizards are available at leading RV Dealers and Distributors, or you may contact Progressive Dynamics at 269 781 4241. ORDER YOUR CHARGE WIZARD TODAY AND ELIMINATE BATTERY PROBLEMS.

FAQ's About Power Converters/Chargers

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Are you purchasing a Progressive Dynamics product on the internet? Why do Recreational Vehicles need Converter/Chargers? What is an Electronic Converter/Charger? How do Electronic Converter/Chargers Operate? What is the maximum rate my Converter/Charger will re-charge my battery? Does my Converter/Charger completely shut-off when the battery reaches full charge? Why doesnt the fan on my converter run all of the time? Does my converter have short circuit protection? What is the term of the converter warranty?

10. What are the fuses on the front of the converter designed to do? 11. How long will it take to re-charge my RV battery? 12. I dry camp most of the time and want to recharge my RV batteries using my generator the next day. Is there any way I can get a faster recharge rate? 13. Can I connect a solar panel to my batteries without harming the Converter/Charger?

1. Are you purchasing a Progressive Dynamics product on the internet? Before you buy, ask the seller about their warranty procedures. Does the retailer provide a "working" customer service or

service department phone number? Does the Progressive Dynamics product that you are buying have a valid serial number? Some online retailers are selling Progressive Dynamics' products without a valid serial number... DON'T BUY THEM! We must have a valid serial number for all warranty service work. A valid serial number allows your warranty service topics to be handled smoothly and with ease. Call 269-781-4241, extension 145; email us at service@progressivedyn.com or write us: Warranty Disclaimer Progressive Dynamics, Inc. 507 Industrial Road Marshall, MI 49068 2. Why do Recreational Vehicles need Converter/Chargers? Remote camping in a modern recreational vehicle requires an electric power source (i.e. a 12-volt battery system). The power converter recharges the battery and supplies 12-volt power for the lights and appliances when 120 volt AC power is available. Most RV Manufacturers now specify Electronic Power Converter/Chargers. 3. What is an Electronic Converter/Charger? Electronic type converter/chargers were first developed for the military and aerospace programs to meet stringent requirements for reliability and small size. As the cost of components decreased and reliability was increased even further, electronic converter/power supplies became the standard for the computer industry. Electronic converter/chargers had the advantage of being smaller, lighter and they provided the ripple free output voltages these sensitive electronic circuits required. In the early 1990s, the component cost reductions and continued increases in component reliability had reached a point where it was economically feasible to design an electronic power converter for the RV industry. Progressive Dynamics introduced our first electronic converter in 1993 and since then, we have produced over 400,000 units. Our field experience and constant improvements have made our units the most reliable on the market today. 4. How do Electronic Converter/Chargers Operate? Electronic converter/chargers first convert the 120 VAC 60 Hz from the outlet to 120 VDC after it passes through Diode Rectifier #1, the Capacitor then filters the ripple voltage. This 120 VDC voltage is then fed to an Electronic Switching Circuit that converts it to back to AC and increases the frequency from the original 60 Hz to 3,500 HZ. This high frequency AC voltage is now fed to a step-down transformer where the output voltage reduced to approximately 13.6 volts AC and Diode Rectifier #2 converts the AC to 13.6 Volts DC and the Capacitor filters out the ripple.

5. What is the maximum rate my Converter/Charger will re-charge my battery? The 9200 Series and 9100 Series electronic Converter/Chargers can charge the battery at their maximum current output rating, provided there are no other 12-volt systems operating and if the battery is discharged enough to accept this charge rate. Progressive Dynamics presently manufacturers six different models of the 9100 series and four models of the 9200

series power converters as shown in the chart below. The last two digits of the part number indicate its maxim current charging capability in amps.

Maximum Output & Charging Rate 30-amps 40-amps 45-amps 60-amps 70-amps 80-amps

9200 Series Model

9100 Series Model PD9130 PD9140A PD9145A PD9160A PD9170 PD9180

PD9245C PD9260C PD9270 PD9280

6. Does my Converter/Charger completely shut-off when the battery reaches full charge? When the battery reaches full charge, the charging current of the converter drops down to between 20 and 25 milliamps. Batteries will self-discharge themselves at this low rate even when no other 12-volt current loads are present. The converter senses this current loss and automatically replaces this lost current to maintain full battery charge. 7. Why doesnt the fan on my converter run all of the time? The fan provided on Progressive Dynamics 9200 and 9100 series converters is an intelligent fan and uses an electronic temperature sensing system that operates the fan only as much as required usually under high current drain applications. This means that the fan typically will not operate at night when the RV owner has turned off most 12- volt lights and appliances and is trying to sleep. 8. Does my converter have short circuit protection? Yes, the 9200 and 9100 series of converters all incorporate a sophisticated electronic current limiting circuit that automatically shuts the converter down very rapidly in the event of a short or current overload condition, without blowing the fuses. This protective circuit will automatically reset itself once the short or overload condition is eliminated. 9. What is the term of the converter warranty? The Progressive Dynamics new converter warranty is 2-years and is determined by the date of purchase of the RV. 10. What are the fuses on the front of the converter designed to do? These fuses protect the converter from damage in the event the battery is connected to the RV in reverse. A reverse battery hook-up is the only thing that will blow these fuses. Before replacing a converter suspected of being inoperative always, check these fuses first! These are standard automotive type 30 amp fuses. 11. How long will it take to re-charge my RV battery? Battery recharge time is controlled by many factors, such as battery size, converter output rating the number of 12-volt lights and appliances that are ON during the re-charge cycle and how far the battery has been discharged. In our testing a 125-AH (Amp Hour) battery was fully discharged to 10.5-volts and then connected to a PD9160 (60-Amp) Converter/Charger set to our standard output voltage of 13.6-volts. The battery reached full charge in 70-hours. 12. I dry camp most of the time and want to recharge my RV batteries using my generator the next day. Is there any way I can get a faster recharge rate? Yes, all 9100 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with our TCMS (Total Charge Management System) Connector to allow you to easily install our Charge Wizard. All 9200 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with the TCMS / Charge Wizard built in. The Charge Wizard senses that your batteries are low and that you want to charge them fast therefore, it automatically increases the output voltage of the Converter/Charger to 14.4-volts and will return a 125-AH battery to 90% of full charge in 2-3 hours. Full charge is achieved in approximately 15 hours.

13. Can I connect a solar panel to my batteries without harming the Converter/Charger? Yes, adding a solar panel will not adversely affect our Converter/Chargers.

FAQ's About Power Converters/Chargers

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Are you purchasing a Progressive Dynamics product on the internet? Why do Recreational Vehicles need Converter/Chargers? What is an Electronic Converter/Charger? How do Electronic Converter/Chargers Operate? What is the maximum rate my Converter/Charger will re-charge my battery? Does my Converter/Charger completely shut-off when the battery reaches full charge? Why doesnt the fan on my converter run all of the time? Does my converter have short circuit protection? What is the term of the converter warranty?

10. What are the fuses on the front of the converter designed to do? 11. How long will it take to re-charge my RV battery? 12. I dry camp most of the time and want to recharge my RV batteries using my generator the next day. Is there any way I can get a faster recharge rate? 13. Can I connect a solar panel to my batteries without harming the Converter/Charger?

1. Are you purchasing a Progressive Dynamics product on the internet? Before you buy, ask the seller about their warranty procedures. Does the retailer provide a "working" customer service or service department phone number? Does the Progressive Dynamics product that you are buying have a valid serial number? Some online retailers are selling Progressive Dynamics' products without a valid serial number... DON'T BUY THEM! We must have a valid serial number for all warranty service work. A valid serial number allows your warranty service topics to be handled smoothly and with ease. Call 269-781-4241, extension 145; email us at service@progressivedyn.com or write us: Warranty Disclaimer Progressive Dynamics, Inc. 507 Industrial Road Marshall, MI 49068 2. Why do Recreational Vehicles need Converter/Chargers? Remote camping in a modern recreational vehicle requires an electric power source (i.e. a 12-volt battery system). The power converter recharges the battery and supplies 12-volt power for the lights and appliances when 120 volt AC power is available. Most RV Manufacturers now specify Electronic Power Converter/Chargers. 3. What is an Electronic Converter/Charger? Electronic type converter/chargers were first developed for the military and aerospace programs to meet stringent requirements for reliability and small size. As the cost of components decreased and reliability was increased even further, electronic converter/power supplies became the standard for the computer industry.

Electronic converter/chargers had the advantage of being smaller, lighter and they provided the ripple free output voltages these sensitive electronic circuits required. In the early 1990s, the component cost reductions and continued increases in component reliability had reached a point where it was economically feasible to design an electronic power converter for the RV industry. Progressive Dynamics introduced our first electronic converter in 1993 and since then, we have produced over 400,000 units. Our field experience and constant improvements have made our units the most reliable on the market today. 4. How do Electronic Converter/Chargers Operate? Electronic converter/chargers first convert the 120 VAC 60 Hz from the outlet to 120 VDC after it passes through Diode Rectifier #1, the Capacitor then filters the ripple voltage. This 120 VDC voltage is then fed to an Electronic Switching Circuit that converts it to back to AC and increases the frequency from the original 60 Hz to 3,500 HZ. This high frequency AC voltage is now fed to a step-down transformer where the output voltage reduced to approximately 13.6 volts AC and Diode Rectifier #2 converts the AC to 13.6 Volts DC and the Capacitor filters out the ripple.

5. What is the maximum rate my Converter/Charger will re-charge my battery? The 9200 Series and 9100 Series electronic Converter/Chargers can charge the battery at their maximum current output rating, provided there are no other 12-volt systems operating and if the battery is discharged enough to accept this charge rate. Progressive Dynamics presently manufacturers six different models of the 9100 series and four models of the 9200 series power converters as shown in the chart below. The last two digits of the part number indicate its maxim current charging capability in amps.

Maximum Output & Charging Rate 30-amps 40-amps 45-amps 60-amps 70-amps 80-amps

9200 Series Model

9100 Series Model PD9130 PD9140A

PD9245C PD9260C PD9270 PD9280

PD9145A PD9160A PD9170 PD9180

6. Does my Converter/Charger completely shut-off when the battery reaches full charge? When the battery reaches full charge, the charging current of the converter drops down to between 20 and 25 milliamps. Batteries will self-discharge themselves at this low rate even when no other 12-volt current loads are present. The converter senses this current loss and automatically replaces this lost current to maintain full battery charge. 7. Why doesnt the fan on my converter run all of the time? The fan provided on Progressive Dynamics 9200 and 9100 series converters is an intelligent fan and uses an electronic temperature sensing system that operates the fan only as much as required usually under high current drain applications. This means that the fan typically will not operate at night when the RV owner has turned off most 12- volt lights and appliances and is trying to sleep.

8. Does my converter have short circuit protection? Yes, the 9200 and 9100 series of converters all incorporate a sophisticated electronic current limiting circuit that automatically shuts the converter down very rapidly in the event of a short or current overload condition, without blowing the fuses. This protective circuit will automatically reset itself once the short or overload condition is eliminated. 9. What is the term of the converter warranty? The Progressive Dynamics new converter warranty is 2-years and is determined by the date of purchase of the RV. 10. What are the fuses on the front of the converter designed to do? These fuses protect the converter from damage in the event the battery is connected to the RV in reverse. A reverse battery hook-up is the only thing that will blow these fuses. Before replacing a converter suspected of being inoperative always, check these fuses first! These are standard automotive type 30 amp fuses. 11. How long will it take to re-charge my RV battery? Battery recharge time is controlled by many factors, such as battery size, converter output rating the number of 12-volt lights and appliances that are ON during the re-charge cycle and how far the battery has been discharged. In our testing a 125-AH (Amp Hour) battery was fully discharged to 10.5-volts and then connected to a PD9160 (60-Amp) Converter/Charger set to our standard output voltage of 13.6-volts. The battery reached full charge in 70-hours. 12. I dry camp most of the time and want to recharge my RV batteries using my generator the next day. Is there any way I can get a faster recharge rate? Yes, all 9100 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with our TCMS (Total Charge Management System) Connector to allow you to easily install our Charge Wizard. All 9200 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with the TCMS / Charge Wizard built in. The Charge Wizard senses that your batteries are low and that you want to charge them fast therefore, it automatically increases the output voltage of the Converter/Charger to 14.4-volts and will return a 125-AH battery to 90% of full charge in 2-3 hours. Full charge is achieved in approximately 15 hours. 13. Can I connect a solar panel to my batteries without harming the Converter/Charger? Yes, adding a solar panel will not adversely affect our Converter/Chargers.

Tubular Battery and It's Importance

Tubular battery is one of the two popular battery designs, the second one being the flat pasted plate battery design. Tubular batteries have more complex designs, as they consist of a number of parallel tubes containing lead oxide. Despite of more efforts required in manufacturing them, these batteries are widely demanded for a number of applications these days.

When compared with sealed maintenance free batteries, a tubular battery offers a number of advantages. As the names suggest, sealed batteries are completely sealed and this makes them difficult to maintain. On the other hand, tubular batteries have openings that allow easy maintenance. Keep on reading to learn about other benefits of these batteries.

Tubular batteries are rugged designs and can be used for high end applications like lifting trucks and in inverters that support heavy loads. One of the many advantages of a tubular battery is that it has long life cycle. One can expect one such battery to run for up to 10 years, provided that right maintenance procedures are followed.

Tubular batteries are designed to conveniently operate in areas with rough weather and environmental conditions. Besides, these batteries are useful for applications in areas where ambient temperature range is common. Many of the other battery designs are incapable of operating within these temperature ranges.

A tubular battery is prone to very less loss of water and this characteristic makes these batteries more efficient than other batteries. There are rare cases when one needs to feed water to these batteries. These batteries have been proved to offer good electrical performance in different types of settings.

A significant advantage of a tubular battery is its ability to charge at a fast rate. This is one useful characteristic that makes these batteries highly recommended for applications that require high productivity. Tubular batteries are available in different design variations to make them work for different applications.

Due to long standby life and high adaptability of these batteries, they are counted among the most useful cell designs till date. If you wish to purchase these batteries, make sure you learn about different versions and choose one manufactured by a reliable company

nverter Battery Buying Guide

Inverter battery plays an important role in determining the performance of the inverter.

So you should check the battery specifications too when deciding on the inverter to purchase or when the old battery becomes unusable.

INVERTER BATTERY SIZE CALCULATIONS

Generally, the size of the battery is determined by the wattage load and the projected runtime. Using a battery that is not strong enough can cause the inverter not to power up and may lead to discharging issues that could permanently damage the battery. The formula mentioned below can be used to calculate the battery size: Battery size = Inverter rating in watts input voltage x usage time (hrs) e.g. 300W 12V x 5 hours = 125 Amp Some other formulas that you should know are:

To Convert AMPS to WATTS: WATTS = AMPS X 120 (AC voltage) The result is a ballpark figure of wattage required for continuous load of device. To calculate approximate Startup Load: Starting Load = WATTS X 2 The result is a ballpark figure of wattage required for starting load of most appliances. Devices like air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers and pumps may have a start up surge of 3 to 7 times the continuous rating. Formula to convert AC Watts to DC Amps: DC Amps = AC Watts divided by 12 x 1.1 Continuous rating: Maximum combined wattage + 20%.

AMPERE HOUR OR AH RATING

Ampere Hour is a measurement of electrical capacity the amount of energy the battery will store. Current multiplied by time in hours equals ampere-hours. This is the most important measure to be looked at when choosing a battery for an inverter. A current of 50 amps for one hour would be 50 AH at the 1hr rate; a current of 30 amps for 5 hours would be 150 AH at the 5hr rate.

AH ratings vary with temperature, and also with the rate of discharge. For example, a battery rated at 100 AH at the 6-hour rate would be rated at about 135 AH at the 48hour rate. The ratings during actual use can change due to effects of temperature and internal resistance.

INVERTER BATTERY DISCHARGE RATE

C10 is the available capacity of the battery when discharged over 10 hrs. C20 is for 20Hrs and so on. These indicate how many amperes the battery will supply for 10 and 20 hours without dropping below a certain voltage. So, lesser the discarge rate, the lesser electricity you will be able to draw for the designated period.

TYPES OF INVERTER BATTERY Lead-acid battery

Lead-acid batteries are the oldest type of rechargeable battery. Most of the inverters batteries are lead acids battery of different types. 1. FLOODED/VENTED These batteries need maintenance and distilled water to be filled periodically. The traditional engine start and traction style battery. Liquid electrolyte is free to move in the cell compartment User has access to the individual cells and can add distilled water as the battery dries out. Popular uses are engine starting and deep cycle designs. Deep cycle battery

The deep cycle batteries are specifically designed to be less susceptible to degradation due to cycling, and are required for applications where the batteries are regularly discharged like uninterruptible power supplies. These batteries have thicker plates that can deliver less peak current, but can withstand frequent discharging. They are also known as traction batteries or golf cart type. They should be used in order to be able to handle the repeated discharge/charge cycles and hence are more suitable for applications. Based on Design
a.) Pure Plante

The Plante positive plate batteries can provide long life but at a relatively high expense than flat plate or tubular batteries and hence find less use nowadays.
b.) Flat Plate

The positive plate is a rugged lead alloy grid which is filled with a specially compounded paste active material
c.) Tubular batteries

The positive plate is composed of a series of parallel polyster tubes filled with lead oxide, this prevents 'Shedding'. They are recommended for back up power for UPS and Inverters where environmental conditions are tough and high ambient temperatures are common. These are capable of long hours of backup. See more about Tubular batteries in India 2. SEALED

These batteries are generally maintenance free. This term can refer to a number of different constructions, including only a slight modification to the flooded style. Although user does not have access to the cell compartments, the internal structure is still basically the same as a flooded battery. The only difference is that the manufacturer has ensured that a sufficient amount of acid in the battery to sustain the chemical reaction under normal use throughout the battery warranty period. a.) VRLA battery

Valve Regulated Lead Acid battery - this is a sealed battery. The valve regulating

mechanism allows for a safe escape of hydrogen and oxygen gasses during charging and hence no seperate room is needed for keeping the battery. b.) AGM battery

Absorbed Glass Matt battery - a sealed battery. Newer sealed battery with "Absorbed Glass Mats", or AGM between the plates. These batteries have all the advantages of gelled batteries, but can take much more abuse. These are also called "starved electrolyte" or "dry" batteries because the glass mat is only 95% saturated instead of being fully soaked, which means that they do not leak acid even if the casing is broken. Generally AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries. AGM batteries are more for light cycling applications where power cut duration are low. c.) Gel battery

The gel cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a GEL cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltages on this type of cell are lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. Probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to overvoltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle applications and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.

COMMON MISTAKES WITH LEAD ACID BATTERIES

Undercharging: Generally caused by not allowing the charger to restore the battery to full state of charge after use. Continually operating the battery in a partial state of charge, or storing the battery in discharged state results in the formation of lead sulfate compounds on the plates. This condition is known as sulfation. Both of these conditions reduce the battery's performance and may cause premature battery failure. Undercharging will also cause stratification. Overcharging: Continuous charging causes accelerated corrosion of the positive plates, excessive water consumption, and in some cases, damaging temperatures within a lead acid battery. Deep cycle batteries should be charged after each discharge of more than 50% of the batteries rated capacity, and/or after prolonged

storage of 45 days or more. Under watering: In deep cycle, lead acid batteries water is lost during the charging process. If the electrolyte level drops below the tops of the plates, irreparable damage may occur. Water levels should be checked and maintained routinely. Over-watering: Excessive watering of a battery results in additional dilution of the electrolyte, resulting in reduced battery performance. Additionally, watering the battery before charging may result in electrolyte overflow and unnecessary additional maintenance.

HIGH OR LOW D.C. VOLTAGE?

Higher-voltage systems tend to be more efficient and put a lower load on the batteries. Factors other than the battery enter into the system's overall efficiency.

TEMPERATURE FOR CHARGING BATTERIES

When charging lead acid batteries, the temperature should not exceed 52oC intermittently or 45oC. At this point the battery should be taken off charge and allowed to cool before resuming the charge process.

CHECKING IF BATTERY IS BAD

To determine if the battery system is experiencing a problem, fully charge the batteries then shut off the charger and remove all electrical loads. Allow each battery in the system to stand on open-circuit for about one hour. Measure the voltage of each battery. If the battery voltage spread exceeds .30 volts for a 12 volt battery, a problem is indicated. Battery voltage alone does not confirm a problem. When the voltage spread indicates a problem, confirmation is accomplished by taking electrolyte specific gravity readings using a hydrometer. If the specific gravity readings show a spread greater than .030 (30 points), give the batteries equalization charge i.e slow constant current charge @ 3% of the battery capacity in amperes.

TOP INVETER BATTERY BRANDS

Sukam Exide

Amco SF Sonic

Moscow
Okaya Luminous Amaron Powerzone

INVERTER BATTERY PRICE LIST

Exide Amaron Luminous Sukam

INVERTER REVIEWS