PREFACE

This report is a documentation of the learnings, observations and the projects done for the fulfillment of our internship, the total duration being eight weeks. The internship is an opportunity for us students to take our first step towards pursuing a carrier in the Apparel industry. It bridges the gap between the theoretical concepts learned during the one year of my studies at ALT, banglore and the practical environment of a full fledged unit, manufacturing garments in bulk. The internship is more meaningful when besides learning from the company and the people! I become a part of the environment and get involved in various processes, in turn trying to add some more value to the company through the work done. This report will take you through my pursuit of merchandising. I have included my e"perience at various instances in the document at relevant places. This first part of this document introduces you to the company. The second part is the project on merchandising.

Contents
S. NO. 1 2 3 4 ! $ ' ( ) 1* 11 12 13 14 1! 1$ 1' 1( 1) 2* 21 22 23 24 2! 2$ 2' TOPIC Company Profile Apparel Industry- An overview Merchandising ampling "a#ric ourcing %esting &a#oratory "a#ric tore %rim tore "a#ric &i#rary Production+ Planning and Control &ogistics , -,. department Machine Maintenance Production- CA. -oom Cutting -oom Assem#ly /m#roidery 0ashing and .yeing "reshte1 "inishing Pac2ing 3uality Assurance Appendi1 A- %esting Procedures Appendi1 4- "a#ric .efects Appendi1 C- "a#ric 5allery Appendi1 .- titch %ypes Appendi1 /- 6eedle %ypes Appendi1 "- %rims 5allery PAGE

COMPANY PROFILE

Company name

M7.&AMA /8P7-% P9% &%. Plot 6o: 1*!;1*$+ <dyog 9ihar+ Phase I+ 5urgaon-122*1! =aryana India info>modlamae1ports?com @A)1-124B 4**(12!

E-mail address Telephone No. Fax No. Year of esta lishment Type of Company O!ners "ire#tors

@A)1-124B 4**(1*( 1)') Privately held @.eemed Pu#lic &imitedB Mr? &alit gulati $r. San%ay &'lati Mr? 5agan gulati Mr? 5aurav gulati 3** C-7-/ @proCectedB -%-shirts - 2irts -Pants , shorts -.resses - shorts -MenDs hirts -Eidswear -Fac2et

Ann'al T'rno(er $a%or prod'#ts

Prod'#tion #apa#ity $a%or export mar)ets

3+**+*** pieces per month <? ?A+ /urope+ Canada+ Australiya+ <?E

No. of people employed $ore than 3+*** Total #o(ered area *+,-+--- s.+ft

Apparel Industy-an overview

An apparel-manufacturing firm is one that #uys fa#rics+ does the designing+ pattern ma2ing+ grading+ cutting+ sewing+ and assem#ling of garments in factories that it owns? In a #roader interpretation+ an e1port oriented garment industry develops garments+ controls production+ sells to its #uyers+ and ships and #ills for merchandise? Apparel distri#utors have their merchandise produce a#road due to several reasons li2e price advantage+ e1clusivity of product+ foreign e1pertise+ and any other factors that may #e a#sent from domestic mar2ets? %here on the other hand+ #ac2 at home+ garment e1port industries generate good #usiness+ employment and foreign e1change for the country #esides getting e1panded mar2ets and greater profit margins? 4uyers do their dealings directly with the e1port house or through their owned or nominated #uying houses+ the latter case #eing more common? %hese overseas #uying houses render their services to assist their stores @the #uyersB in product development and securing merchandise for the garment industries? APPA/E0 $AN1FACT1/ING ACTI2ITIES %he general processes of garment production are similar from one company to another? A great deal of difference e1ists+ however+ in how the processes are organiGed and how they occur within the industry? All the activities of an e1port house are #uilt around the needs and demands of the #uyer and organiGed in a way that produces a profit?
/1ecutive leadership Merchandising

Mar2eting

Production

3uic2 response

4uye r "inance

%he process starts with the first meeting 7perations of the #uyer and the company owner? %hereafter the firm goes through a series of steps in developing products from the

design state to a finished garment style? "ollowing te1t and flowchart gives a simplified overview of the maCor steps in producing a garment detailed discussion of these steps as e1ecuted in Modelama e1ports pvt ltd @0oven wear divisionB is presented in this report further? 0INE "E2E0OP$ENT O/ P/O"1CT "E2E0OP$ENT STAGE %he scope of this line starts from the very concept of the design up to the production stage? %here are two stages here Predevelopment stage @#efore the order is placedB Post development stage @after the order is placedB Pre de(elopment Concept development- 4ased on the #uyersD need and ideas developed+ a well targeted product assortment is selected in the first meeting? %he design may #e completely original+ or selected from styles developed in past or simply a result of trial and error? 7nce the ideas of the #uyers have ta2en #irth in the merchandiserDs mind+ an initial cost estimation for the style is made? 6ow the first patterns are made which may #e modified later during the fit process? Initial patterns are normally done manually? <sing these patterns prototype garments @first samplesB are made and reviewed? %he #uyer sits together with the merchandiser to finaliGe the loo2s+ eliminate some styles and order for final development samples with more specific instructions? %hese samples are then reviewed for cost+ production feasi#ility+ styling+ sourcing for production+ fa#ric reHuirements and availa#ility+ and profit potential? %he decision is made at this point whether the garment will #e accepted as a part of the new line and the final order is placed? Post de(elopment 7nce the final selections from the line have #een designated for production+ the ne1t steps of pre-assem#ly occur? %he styling and the fit are perfected for the final garment? Ma2ing the production pattern A highly s2illed pattern master ma2es the production pattern for the garment in one siGe and a fit sample is developed for the #uyerDs approval for fit? Pattern grading After the #asic pattern is perfected and approved #y the #uyer+ grading instructions are received to produce patterns for that garment in all the siGes?

%his is called siGe set? It is again sent for #uyerDs approval and the finaliGed sealed sample #ecomes the pre-production sample? 6o design changes will #e incorporated after this? Mar2er ma2ing %he ne1t step after grading is mar2er ma2ing? %he mar2er is made according to the ratio of orders? %he mar2er is a long paper diagram that shows the placement of all of the various pattern pieces for all the siGes produced as they should #e laid in order to cut the cloth economically and in appropriate grain line?

7rdering of production fa#rics and supplies 4y this time the fa#ric sourcer would have already #een in touch with te1tile mills and vendors of trims+ #uttons+ Gippers+ and other components? <p to this point the company had ordered only enough to ma2e the samples? 4ut once the purchase order and the Huality approval for the fa#ric from the #uyer are received+ the final order is placed with the vendors #ased on sales orders?

"inal arrangements for production are made Production+ planning and control and Methods engineering departments are now #rought into the picture+ who get ready to prepare the production floor for the new style?

"inal specifications are developed pecifications are #rief written descriptions or guidelines for how the garment should #e produced and standards for the finished item? %his includes standards for materials used+ how assem#ly should occur+ and details for what is e1pected in the garment?

"inal costing Although a Huic2 pre-costing occurred early in the predevelopment stage+ a final costing occurs in the post-development stage #efore production #egins? %his is detailed costing to provide an accurate picture of what actual costs are going to #e and to find ways to minimiGe costs wherever possi#le? P/O"1CT SO1/CING AN" P/O"1CTION Cutting Mar2ers+ production instructions and specifications are developed and sent to the cutting room? Cutting occurs with the mar2er+ which provides the cutting plan? CA. sends a cut order to the cutting room to determine the Huantity of

garments to #e cut in various siGes? &ayers of fa#ric are rolled out on long ta#les+ mar2er is fi1ed on top of the layered fa#ric and then the cutter uses electrically powered porta#le 2nives and follows lines on the mar2er to cut through fa#ric layered several inches deep? Production: 5arment assem#ly %he cut parts of the garment are then collected+ identified+ and passed along for the sewing operation? At 7C+ progressive #undle system is followed i?e? wor2ers sew one part of the garment in an assem#ly line manner? 0or2ers are paid according to the num#er of pieces they produce? After the assem#ly the garments are inspected in a separate inspection department to ensure that the garments meet the Huality standards e1pected? 0or2ers then finish the pieces #y trimming the loose threads and prepare it for pressing? 5arments are pressed to give a pleasing appearance to customers who will view finished items? 6ow the garments are tic2eted where price tags and other hangtags may #e attached?

S3IPPING 7nce the garments are off the finishing line they are now ready to #e pac2ed and dispatched whenever and wherever the #uyer demands in the most costeffective manner? 5arments are shipped to the #uyerDs warehouses in different countries+ usually in cartons?

%hus we see how many steps are involved in getting a garment on the sales floor and how many people have contri#uted in important ways to produce and deliver the garment? A great many decisions and activities are part of the apparel development and production process? /ach step is important in producing the merchandise that will ultimately satisfy the #uyersD customers and the apparel manufacturer strives to do his #est in achieving it?

P/E"E2E0OP$ENT

POST"E2E0OP$ENT

PPC department sets production schedule

4uyerDs 3C inspection

The Idea
-4uyerDs need -MerchandiserDs and designer ideas

"a#ric is sourced and approved #y #uyer

&ogistics decides the line set-up

/eady for shipment

Ideas developed into s2etches

"a#rics and other trims for sampling are ordered

Production pac2age is forwarded to production manager

"a#rics and other trims are ordered for first sample

Pattern development for sample

manager!er
P/O"1CTION

Cost estimation @3uic2-costingB

ample developed , reviewed

"a#ric in-housed and inspected

"irst pattern is developed

Fit sample is developed , reviewed

"a#ric sent to cutting roomspread and garments cut out

"irst samplePrototype is developed

Production pattern is finaliGed Cut garments go to sewing operations and assem#led

Proto sample reviewed

5rading details sent #y the #uyer

Additions;changes made as per #uyerDs need

Pattern is graded

5arments are given final production details and pressed

"e(elopment sample made

Si4eset developed and reviewed "inal Huality chec2s and finishing

Additions;changes made as per #uyerDs need

4uyer sends the sealer sample-pre prod'#tion sample finaliGed

%agging and pac2ing of the garments Production mar2er is made

ample finaliGed , 4uyer places order

Merchandising
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned+ developed+ e1ecuted and presented to the #uyer? It includes directing and overseeing the development of product lines from start to finish? A merchandiser represents its manufacturing unit and wor2s with the #uyers for its product development? In an e1port house+ merchandising is a com#ination of #usiness and technical aspects? enior merchandisers have responsi#ilities of product development and coordinating with the #uyer+ the garment styles that meet #uyersD e1pectations in regard to delivery+ Huality+ and price point? Funior merchandisers have the responsi#ility of handling paperwor2 and follow up+ detailing with #uyers+ overseas communication etc? 7nce the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paperwor2+ provide #rea2down information to all other departments and get samples approved for fit+ color and Huality? Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers+ approval of production samples+ and development of fa#rics and yarns are also included in product development+ which are co-coordinated with other departments? Merchandisers have to negotiate with the #uyers on pricing+ wor2 out delivery schedules+ and investigate for future #uyers? 7verall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry? $E/C3AN"ISING ACTI2ITIES First #omm'ni#ation !ith the 'yer After the head of the manufacturing firm+ merchandiser is the first person who meet the #uyer and who remain in their constant touch thereafter? %he #uyer approaches them with a design concept in his mind and accordingly the merchant offers what he has pertaining to those concepts? .esigner with the help of merchandiser wor2s on ranges using these ideas that have #een communicated #y the #uyer? "rom these ranges the #uyer pic2s up a style assortment and reHuests for proto development? Co-#oordinatin& pre-de(elopment a#ti(ities %he proto development can #e done on any #ase patterns+ in any colors or in any styles as li2ed #y the #uyer? It is the first stage of giving an outline to the reHuirements of the #uyer? A num#er of meetings and plenty of communication ta2e place #etween the #uyer and the merchant #efore he wishes for development of samples selected from the range of protos? Merchant gets these protos made in the sampling department and reviews it with the #uyer? 7nce reHuest for development sample is placed and the first patterns #egin ta2ing shape+ initial costing is done to estimate the price of the selected garment? Ma2ing of development samples if a further refined process wherein the #uyer #ecomes more specific a#out his reHuirements? %he reHuired trims and fa#ric are sourced out as per need and sample

is assessed on a continuous #asis? %he merchant and the #uyer wor2 in coordination until design comes up as e1actly as intended #y the #uyer? All these are predevelopment steps in the pre-production stage where the decision will #e made as to whether the garment will #e accepted as a part of the new line or not? Order re#ei(in& 0hen the development samples are approved the #uyer sends his purchase order? Purchase order gives the firm the authority to see2 out raw materials for the production process? Information li2e order date+ authority of the order and order num#er+ delivery date+ where and how to shipI any pac2ing instructions+ firmDs name+ #uyerDs style+ prices and terms etc? is mentioned in a P7? Co-#oordinatin& post-de(elopment a#ti(ities ampling for the final pre-production sample now #egins @post development stageB? %he #uyer along with the purchase order sends all details for his product in form of spec sheets? %hese are updated whenever the samples are reviewed for changes? Pre assem#ly occurs for perfecting the styling and fit? %he merchant gets the final patterns made from highly s2illed pattern master and sample garments are made for layout and fit approval from the #uyer? %his is the time #etween a style is accepted for the line and when a style is ready for the sewing floor? If the samples are not approved they are sent for corrections? 0hen the #uyer is satisfied with fit and layout @also called 5"/- 5arment "it /valuationB+ he sends grading instructions? "ollowing the measurements specified in the graded spec sheet+ the CA. develops graded patterns and garments are stitched in all siGes? %his is called a siGe set which contains all the assorted siGes of the ordered style? It is sent for #uyerDs appraisal for every siGe and if his reHuirements seem to #e fulfilled+ he sends #ac2 a medium sample with an approval seal and a go ahead to start the #ul2 sample? %he sealer sample #ecomes the final pre-production sample? At every stage it is the responsi#ility of the merchant to get the fa#ric and the trims arranged for all sample ma2e-ups as per the need? =e 2eeps in constant touch with the #uyer and communicates his instructions to the sampling and other departments? =e maintains the style pac2age and updates it every time the #uyer ma2es any changes? A typical style pac2age @or tech or communication pac2B contains: Development details "older summary "a#ric details @fa#ric weight+ width+ count etc?B .yeing method 0ashing and finishing details Pac2aging details 5arment s2etches

5arment type;category etc? Construction overview 5eneral construction .etailed construction %rims details %hread details "a#ric details Cutting details @two way etc?B Insertions+ seam type etc? Pictures of the trims .esign component wor2sheet Color of trims+ em#roidery+ decorative stitching etc? Multi-sample; pec wor2sheet ample comments %olerance details -evised spec details etc? %rim research sheet 3uality+ type+ measurement of trims /m#roidered samples Pitch sheet /m#ellishment details li2e color fastness+ fa#ric type , colors+ color 2eys+ shade card for the colors etc? Lab dips watches of la# dips Matching light conditions Comments hade approval Pitch sheet (combo) o! patte!n Color 2eys for all patterns Fab!ic cha!t .etails a#out the vendor+ description of fa#ric+ type+ finishes+ construction+ colors+ dips etc? Development sample s"mma!# tyle 5roup Jarn

5 M "a#ric Pricing 6um#er of units ordered %rims etc? It is the merchantDs tas2 to 2eep a well-managed record every detail sent #y the #uyer+ get the samples made and approved for production and also to send out necessary directives for su#seHuent processes? Costin& %he most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of production #efore the #uyer sends out his P7? .uring the predevelopment stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost li2ely to #e incurred per piece? %hese costs include general raw material cost+ manufacturing cost+ washing cost+ mar2up cost etc? 7nce the production sample is approved and grading done a final costing is done accurately using fa#ric averages from the CA.+ cost of trims etc? A garment costing includes: Man" act"!e!$s cost Materials "a#ric &ining %hread %rims li2e Gipper+ elastic+ #uttons etc? &a#or .irect e1penses "actory #urden 0arehousing and transporatation Pac2ing costs @tags+ la#els+ hangers+ pins+ #ags+ cartons etc?B 7verheads ewing e1penses Administrative e1penses "inancing and interest -eturns and allowances %!ade disco"nts %a&es Ma!'do(ns )ho!ta*es

%he merchant first calculates the net weight @weight of the area of pattern pieces A wastages A collars+ poc2ets+ patches etc?B and then the gross weight @net weight A cost of trims+ sewing thread+ la#els etc?B to reach the cost of raw material? 7ther costs li2e that of mar2up etc? are then added? %hese are normally standardiGed #y the company itself? Co-ordinatin& other departments ampling ampling and merchandising go hand in hand? %he merchant gets the samples made from this department+ communicates his comments @li2e wor2manship+ fitting+ measurement+ fa#ric+ accessories+ print;em#roideryB to the sampling head+ pattern masters and 3C of the department and finally follows up to get these changes incorporated in the style? =e arranges for everything that is reHuired in the style with the help of other departments? /m#roidery department %he merchant prepares the em#roidery program for the em#roidery department as per #uyerDs needs? %his program includes a graphics-#riefing sheet @details a#out color+ threads+ type of em#roidery etc?B+ artwor2+ threads+ fa#ric and placement instructions? "a#rics department Merchandiser gets the fa#ric reHuirements from the #uyer+ instructs the fa#rics departments accordingly+ gets its pre testing and the la# dips approved and finally orders for the #ul2 fa#ric?

%rims store
5hile orderin& trims the mer#handiser first #al#'lates a(era&e n'm er of trims that !ill e re.'ired per pie#e. Then he prepares the trim sheet+ !hi#h has all the trims that !ill e 'sed in a parti#'lar style. This is sent to the store alon& !ith a re.'est of the total .'antity needed and the store pla#es the order a##ordin&ly. S!at#h #ards of the pro#'red trims are re#ei(ed from the store and appro(al made if it meets the 'yer6s spe#ifi#ation.

Ma2ing the production pac2age

0hen the pre-production sample is approved+ the merchant contracts out the complete production of garments from cutting to finishing in form of a production pac2age? %his is handed out to the PPC department for further action? "ollowing reorders -is2 is a great concern in garment industry especially in fashiona#le apparel? 4uyers usually test the mar2et with a limited num#er of units+ which they call as sales samples? According to the orders received #y their customers+ they reorder for that particular style instead of having them in stoc2? %he merchant must #e prepared for an order for the sales samples at any stage so that it can deliver them on time?

Sampling
A sample is a prototype of a product to #e manufactured in future course of production? It can also #e called Moc2-up of a product and is made to chec2 the design effectiveness and fit of the garment? ampling is set of procedures followed to produce various sample styles? It contains activities li2e ma2ing of patterns for prototypes according to measurements+ to produce sample with help of machinery and getting #uyersD approval for the sample produced? 7ASIC 5O/8 F0O59 In any e1port house+ the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital role in the up liftment of a unit? ampling department directly co-ordinates with the Merchandising and Production .epartment? ampling is done to see how the product will loo2 li2e when produced in #ul2 and to chec2 whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern? Patterns are made according to the #uyersD specification? Merchandiser procures order from the #uyer? %he #uyer sends spec sheet+ s2etches+ fa#ric details+ em#ellishment details+ stitch types etc to the merchandiser? Merchandiser files this information along with details regarding costing+ average+ proto+ fit+ correction+ siGe set and approval in to a tyle Pac2age and hands it over to the ampling department head? ampling department head will receive the pac2age from the merchant and understand a#out the reHuirements of the design? =e allocates the style to a particular pattern master for its development? Pattern master co-ordinates with the

CA. department in this regard? CA. will #e responsi#le for digitiGing the first patterns+ fit corrections+ gradings+ siGe set correction+ costing the mar2er for fa#ric order+ ma2ing production cutting mar2er+ pattern cuttings #y CA. cutter and shrin2age addition in the patterns? %he pattern master studies the style pac2age thoroughly and ma2es the pattern on the #rown paper pattern sheet+ giving all the seam allowances+ notches+ darts+ and style features as specified in the design sheets? %he first pattern is made in medium siGe? %his pattern is sent to the headcutting master of the sampling department who gets the fa#ric cut accordingly? %hree siGes of the same pattern siGe are cut? %he merchandiser himself procures the fa#ric reHuired for sampling from the store? 4efore sampling the fa#ric also undergoes the la# test and gets an approval #y the #uyer? After the fa#ric is cut+ the components are sent #ac2 to the individual pattern masters handling that particular style? Pattern master gets it stitched in his line 2eeping in mind all the technicalities+ design features and different types of stitches? %he merchandiser gives the reHuired accessories to the pattern master? 4efore cutting the fusing and em#roidery is done if needed? %he cut pieces are then stitched in their respective allotted sampling assem#ly lines+ washed+ chec2ed #y the sampling 3C and finally finished and pac2ed? %hese activities are personally ta2en care of the Cunior merchandisers and the line in charge so that Huality samples are delivered within the time limit? %he samples so prepared are inspected and chec2ed for fit #y the 3A and sampling in charge? If they find any discrepancies they send #ac2 for correction or rema2e? <ntil they are satisfied+ the merchant will not #e sending them for #uyerDs approval? At this first stage the sampling head also carries out initial costing with the help of the merchandiser for the entire garment? ampling head is responsi#le for pattern ma2ing targets+ setting sample sewing targets+ setting responsi#ilities for concern+ getting the wor2 under control process and to ma2e formats for each stage? =is approval is must for e1ecution of any ne1t process in the department? 7ut of the three samples made+ two are sent to the #uyer for approval and one is 2ept for own reference? If the samples are according to the #uyersD specifications one piece is sent #ac2 with approval? If the sample is not up to the mar2+ then the #uyer sends a comment sheet in which the further alterations are specified and fresh patterns and samples are made according to the comment sheet? 0hen #uyerDs approval is sort+ siGe set grading preparation #egins according to the details sent #y him to the merchant? At this stage the CA. department gives the second average @costingB as per grading for fa#ric #oo2ing? 5rading in different siGes is done #y the CA. according to the graded spec sheet sent #y the #uyer? iGe sheet is also received which states the siGe ratio according to which the graded patterns are cut in that many num#er? "or e1ample the #uyer may as2 a siGe set as: -1+ M-3+ &-2+ 8&-1 etc?

5arments are made in this ratio and are chec2ed #y the 3C in a similar manner as discussed earlier? Approved pieces are handed over to the merchant who sorts #uyerDs approval for siGe set? If any changes are reHuested in the siGe set report then the CA. ma2es the corrections in the patterns and samples are re made afresh? If satisfied+ the #uyer sends #ac2 two pieces of medium siGe with a seal on it? %his #ecomes the ealer sample or the pre production sample? Production will #e carried out according to this sample? At this stage one final costing is done after incorporating all the changes li2e shrin2age+ tolerances etc? %he merchant now integrates the PP sample+ order details+ sample details+ patterns+ mar2ers etc? into a production pac2age and hands it over to the PPC department for further development? Types of Samples9 P!oto )ample+ It is made in three pieces? 7ne 2ept for own reference and two sent to #uyer for approval? %hese are the first ones to #e made? Fit sample+ %hey are also made three in num#er+ two for #uyer and one for own reference? %hese are accurate in fit and siGe+ and made e1actly in the same 5 M and fa#ric as reHuired? %hey have #een perfected after a num#er of alterations in the measurements? %estin* sample+ %wo of them are made? %hese samples are made to undergo tests at the testing la#? )i,e set sample+ %he #uyer specifies the siGe ratio and siGes? %hen the samples are made according to these siGes? %his forms the siGe set? )ales )ample+ "or a pre-launch the #uyer may reHuest any Huantity of their samples to #e made #efore time? %hese are paid samples? Photo shoot+ %he #uyer may as2 for these samples for photo shoot or advertising of their product?

Fabric Sourcing
"a#ric sourcing department is #asically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i?e? fa#ric will #e o#tained? It wor2s in co-ordination with the merchandising department and loo2s after the delivery of the reHuired goods within the scheduled time and cost? A fa#ric sourcer must have 2nowledge a#out all varieties of fa#rics in order to e1ecute their functions effectively?

7nce the Purchase 7rder is received #y the merchandiser+ the fa#ric sourcing incharge gets to 2now the delivery schedule of the raw materials needed to meet the reHuirements of the production schedule? %hen #efore see2ing the suppliers for fa#ric+ he studies the specifications of the goods that have to #e ordered? %hese specs include tolerance limits for all the parameters of the raw material+ construction+ esthetics+ dura#ility+ utility and processing performance? %he merchandiser receives these specs from the #uyer and hands-over them to the fa#ric sourcing department for procurement of the fa#ric accordingly? "a#ric sourcer also sources for trims and other specialty fa#rics? 7nce the fa#ric sourcer 2nows what he must get and when it is due+ he prepares a list of suppliers @Indian or "oreignB who can furnish the reHuired Huality and Huantity+ when and where needed at the desired price? =e presents his reHuirements and specs to the vendors and finaliGes the supplier on #asis of the consistency of raw material supplied+ on-time delivery and competitive prices? %he supplier manufactures the fa#ric according to the specifications and sends the first lot for approval? Grei&e Fa ri# S'ppliers &a2ra 4rothers uper "ine Eapoor Coats &td? 7swal "ashion Pvt &td? -uhia Cote1 &td? Mercury Enits 9alla#h Jarn ha2thi =osiery aveena Agmote1

"yed Fa ri# S'ppliers F?&?Enits Attar "ilte .hruv 5lo#al hyamte1 5em Enits 0oven fa#ric is also imported from countries li2e %aiwan+ =ong Eong and china? 7nce the first fa#ric lot is received+ yardages from it are sent to testing la#? %he test report is sent to the merchandiser for #uyerDs approval? If the #uyer gives the

approval the #ul2 is in-housed+ otherwise the fa#ricators are instructed accordingly? As the #ul2 fa#ric is received+ it is sent for physical inspection in the store itself? 0hen greige fa#ric is procured+ it needs to #e dyed in the same shade as reHuired -eceive P7 from approaches dyeing -eceive shade #y the #uyer? =ere fa#ric sourcer units with its dyeing program? merchandiser approval "irst it gets &a# .ips of the fa#ric in the reHuired color shade from the dyeing unit? %hese dyed sample swatches are sent for #uyerDs approval for nearest match? %hen only the dyeing unit is given a go ahead for dyeing the goods in the approved shade? Jardages from dyed or ready goods @#ought directlyB are sent for la# testing at nominated la#s of the #uyer for a num#er of physical and chemical tests as specified #y him? %he reports and sample fa#ric from -eceive the lotdyed are goods sent to the #uyer who -aise the reHuisition crosschec2s them and an approval for #ul2 cutting if he is satisfied with the to gives vendors results? Correct shade match+ 5 M+ color fastness+ washing #ehavior etc? are some of the most important properties that are loo2ed for in the fa#ric? If the fa#ric does ource out the not meet the standards+ it may have to #e sent for washing or re dyeing? 7nce the end yardage for goods internal testing fa#ric is confirmed for #ul2 production+ and all the lots are in-housed+ the fa#rics department informs the PPC department?
u#mit for #uyerDs a#out the goods "a#ric source department has a trac2 of all the information approval for in color availa#le in its store? K7rder %rac2ing ystemD installed the store 2eeps their and Huality data#ases updated with the latest arrival and dispatch of goods from the store? %hese data#ases inform them a#out how much fa#ric is in-house+ how much has Place the order #een issued+ what fa#ric is availa#le in the store etc? Approve end vendors for redyeing+ People from the department 2eep in regular touch with the fa#ric and trims dL washing etc? "irst lot in-house for their latest offerings? %hey visit other countriesI meet the suppliers and source out most up to date varieties of fa#rics and trims+ which they can offer to their #uyers in Jes future? &a# testing 4ul2 fa#ric in-house
6o

Prepare a fa#ric reHuisition

end goods for dyeing

"inaliGe the vendor

u#mit for approval to merchant

-eady for issue

-eorder

6o

Approve dL
Jes

5O/8F0O5 IN FA7/ICS "EPA/T$ENT

&a# dips prepared at dyeing unit in nearest shade

end la# dips for shade approval #y the #uyer

Testing Laboratory

5arments are made from fa#ric with the help of sewing threads and a num#er of accessories li2e #uttons+ laces+ ri##ons+ la#els etc are sewn on them? All these things used to construct a garment have uncertain characteristics i?e? we do not 2now how they will #ehave in conditions li2e washing+ sunlight+ heat etc? when used #y the consumer? Any undesira#le changes in the fa#ric+ thread or the trims would detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility #efore time? %hus it #ecomes necessary to chec2 or test the characteristics of all these components under the conditions to which they are suscepti#le to change or get damaged? "a#ric and trims are tested for their Huality+ dura#ility+ color fastness+ dimensional sta#ility and physical 2now-how? 5oods are procured from the suppliers only when the la# tests results confirm that they comply with the standards or reHuirements of the #uyers? %he #uyers are also specific a#out the test method that has to #e followed? AA%CC and A %M are two American standards that are used in the la#? AATCC :Ameri#an Asso#iation of Textile Chemists and Colorists; standards are given primarily for all the colorfastness and dimensional sta#ility? AST$ :Ameri#an Standard for Testin& $aterials; covers all the physical tests? ISO :International Standard Or&ani4ation; is a /uropean standard+ which covers the colorfastness tests and the dimensional sta#ility tests? Modelama has its own in-house fa#ric-testing la#oratory eHuipped with all sophisticated instruments as per AA%CC and I 7 standards+ where tests on fa#ric+ garments+ and trims are conducted? %here are separate dry+ wet and chemical testing areas in the la# along with a dar2 room for color matching? 7ASIC 5O/8 F0O59 %esting la# receives the fa#ric to #e tested along with a test reHuest form either from the fa#ric sourcing department or the fa#ric store @or garment from 3uality Assurance;Merchandising departmentsB? %his form contains all the details li2e #uyer

name+ style+ sample description+ and vendor? A swatch of the fa#ric to #e tested is pasted on the form and tests to #e conducted are specified? .epending on the num#er and type of tests to #e carried+ fa#ric yardages are sent to the la# @almost M meter to 2 meterB %esting is done on #ehest of #uyer and it is the #uyer who specifies the tests to #e conducted? "a#ric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities? /ach #uyer has its standard acceptance levels in testing? =e may reHuire testing to #e done at a specified testing la#oratory or one nominated #y the #uyer himself? tandard testing conditions @temperature and humidityB are maintained in the la#oratory #y Kprecision temperature and humidity controllerD? et temperature of the la# is <* C =>- * C while set relative humidity is ?,@ =>- <@ 7nce the fa#ric is received for testing+ it is allowed to rela1+ condition and acclimatiGe to the standard temperature and humidity maintained in the la#oratory for at least 2 to 4 hours? A variety of tests are conducted on the conditioned samples #ut some of the tests li2e that of washing+ croc2ing+ ru##ing+ dimensional sta#ility+ count+ fa#ric construction+ 5 M+ content etc? are necessarily carried out for every fa#ric;garment? "ollowing is a list of tests carried out in the la#: Color fastness to 0ashing @3*N+ 4*N+ 4)NB Croc2ing;ru##ing 0ater Perspiration .ry-clean 6on chlorine;chlorine #leach Actual laundering &ight

Physi#al tests for Count Construction "a#ric weight %wist;inch pirality 4utton pull test

"imensional sta ility after 0ashing .ry-clean

General Garment appearan#e Pilling test

Chemi#al tests for "i#re content p= of water e1tract;surface p=

Concept of gray scales: Color fastness and pilling tests reHuire grading of the results to draw o#Cective inference of the #ehavior of the fa#ric or garment? 5rading means comparing the tested and the standard fa#ric? %his is done with the help of gray scales? 5ray scale standards are of two types: one+ that is used for testing the variation in color and the other that is used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain #efore and after wash or dry-cleaning? %he stained or the tested fa#ric is matched with the shades on the gray scale in the light #o1 2ept in dar2 room? Matching is done on a sla# that is tilted at an angle of 4! degrees in artificial light eHuivalent to sunlight? %he gray scales show values ranging from * to ! each indicating a different level of shade variation? "or e?g? a value of ! on gray scale used for stains indicates perfect white i?e? no variation found+ 4 indicates slightly stained and this way the variation 2eeps increasing as we move towards the value of Gero? imilarly a value of ! in a gray scale used to test the color variation indicates no color variation+ a value of 4 indicates slight color variation and this way the variation 2eeps increasing as we move towards the value of Gero? A value on gray scale #elow 4 is not accepta#le unless otherwise specified #y the #uyer? After conducting all the reHuired tests+ a test !epo!t is made which contains the results of testing? It also includes comments and inferences pertaining to the results #y the testing department? %his report is sent #ac2 to the fa#ric-sourcing department+ where it will #e decided the fa#ric has passed the test or not and whether the fa#ric is accepta#le according to the set standards?

EA1IP$ENT 1SE" IN T3E TESTING 0A7

Testin& E.'ipment /Huipment "ry area Pic2 glass;counting glass 5 M Cutter /lectric 4alance Pilling %ester Croc2 Meter @Manual , computeriGedB 4ursting strength tester nap %ester &ight "astness %ester .ata Color pectra flash @ pectrophotometerB 5et area "ront &oading 0ashing Machine %op loading washing machine &aundrometer %um#le .ryer =ot air oven Chemi#al area piro meter p= Meter Purpose Constructional parameters li2e CPI+ 0PI %o cut a standard siGe sample fa#ric for 5 M "or weighing and determining count+ 5 M etc? Predict pilling #ehavior Color fastness to ru##ing Measure #ursting strength of the 2nit fa#ric Measures snap #utton and pulling strength Color fastness to sunlight Color matching and recipe formulation 5eneral 0ash "or shrin2age;spirality test Color fastness to washing and .ry cleaning .rying washed fa#ric "or drying Color fastness to perspiration Measure p= of chemical solutions prepared

B-efer Appendix A for the testing procedures and chemicals used?

-eceive "a#ric Jardage;5arment , %est -eHuest "orm

AcclimatiGe the fa#ric in standard atmosphere for 3 hrs

.-J;P=J ICA& %/ %I65

0/%;C=/MICA& %/ %I65

5-A.I65 with 5ray cales

Prepare %est -eport

end #ac2 report with comments

5O/8F0O5 IN TESTING 0A7

Fabric Store
Modelama maintains its own in-house centraliGed fa#ric store+ which caters to the needs of eight-2nitwear units spread in 5urgaon and surrounding areas? "a#ric storehouse is the actual area where the fa#ric for production is received or dispatched for processing? 4esides storage the fa#ric store department is also responsi#le for the inspection of the goods received #y it?

FA7/IC STO/AGE A/EA

&7A.I65 A-/A <6&7A.I65 A-/A

7-./- %-ACEI65 J %/M

5-/I5/ "A4-IC %7-/

5reige fa#ric inspection

P-7C/ /. "A4-IC %7-/

%-IM %7-/

%he activities going on in the fa#ric storehouse are #riefly e1plained ahead? O/"E/ P/OCESSING AN" FA7/IC IN-3O1SE

Processed fa#ric inspection ta#le

%he merchant receives the Purchase 7rder from the #uyer? 7n the #asis of this purchase order+ the fa#ric sourcer prepares a KreHuisitionD for the fa#ric as per the demands of the #uyer and raises it to the fa#ric vendors in the mar2et? %he #est deal and the vendor are finaliGed and the order is placed? %he factory may send the yarn from the store to the fa#ricators for fa#ric production+ #uy greige goods for dyeing or directly order the processed fa#ric to the vendors? 7nce the fa#rics department receives the approval for the fa#ric+ the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time period and the fa#ric is made in house in the fa#ric store? A#out !O e1tra goods are supplied #y the vendor? %he fa#ric via transport truc2s comes in various pac2ages li2e rolls+ #oo2 fold+ open width etc? %he pac2ages are unloaded on conveyor #elts @!** 2g capacityB+ which ta2es them to the weighing machine? /ach consignment comes in with an invoice having details li2e Huantity+ color+ 5 M+ and weight? %he goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed #efore they are stored? C7ar #ode system6 Modelama uses a uniHue method for trac2ing its orders #y 4ar- coding? %his automated system reduces stress on order processing and invoicing which otherwise is highly paperwor2-intensive? It also eases management of #ac2 orders? %he factory prepares its own #arcode stic2ers according to the P?7? and puts it on the goods once they are in housed? 4ar code is a series of vertical #ars that helps to identify the merchandise category? <sing a hand held laser scanner the #ar codes are read and an K7rder trac2ing ystemD software interprets all the information contained in them li2e P7 no? upplier no? -oll 6o? Component Color iGe &ot no? 7C& unit no? /stimated lot Hty? -olls Individual weight etc? %his information is uploaded automatically in all the computer systems of the departments li2e fa#ric store+ fa#ric sourcing+ production and PPC+ merchandising @via networ2ingB+ thus eliminating the #urden of re-entering data? 4ar coding allows automatic updating of records+ rapid identification of the products and Huic2 sorting whenever they are dispatched from the fa#ric store to the vendors for processing or to the cutting room?

"a#ric stores maintains records on a daily+ monthly and yearly #asis for all the goods received #oth Huality-wise and Huantity-wise? %he goods are in-housed in the store at least one month prior to production? 4esides fa#ric the storehouse is also responsi#le for the receiving ordered trims and other fa#rics?

FA7/IC INSPECTION %he fa#ric #eing the main contri#utor to the development of our final product i?e? the garment+ it is very important to control its Huality @indicated #y the num#er of faults and variations present in it? Identification of these o#Cectiona#le variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time? o once the fa#ric is inhoused it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assem#ly to the inspection area? Greige fabric inspection

%he greige fa#ric is normally in tu#ular form and it is chec2ed on the inspection machine inclined at an angle of 4!P? %he machine has two rollers? 7ne is &et Q off roller and the other is %a2e Q up roller? &et - off roller releases the fa#ric for chec2ing and ta2e Q up roller winds the fa#ric #ac2? pecial lights mounted at the top of machine and #eneath the fa#ric provide illumination @standard !** lu1B for chec2ing #oth the surfaces of the tu#ular fa#ric simultaneously? %he speed of the rollers can #e adCusted as reHuired? %he chec2er loads the machine with the fa#ric roll and analyses the running fa#ric for faults? .efects in greige fa#ric #roadly occur due to two reasons- yarn defects or 2nitting defects?

Yarn defe#ts show up in the fa#ric in form of horiGontal lines? <neven yarn+ uneven yarn tension+ mi1ed yarn+ uneven twist+ wea2 yarn+ misaligned and poor wound cones etc? are common yarn defects which give rise to fa#ric faults? ome of these faults are not seen in dyed fa#rics #ut others remain o#Cectiona#le even after processing? Contamination is caused due to contaminated yarn or yarn mi1ed with dirt? Its color appears different from the #ase color? %his is common pro#lem in 2nitting when yarns of two different colours are used simultaneously? %hey remain even after dyeing? -itties occur due to the impurities present in the cotton fi#re? %hese are spread all over the fa#ric as tiny specs and get removed during processing of the fa#ric? )l"bs are formed due to 2not and other yarn imperfections?

8nittin& defe#ts usually show up as vertical lines in the fa#ric? 4ent or wrong needles+ worn out machine parts+ dirt accumulation in the machinery parts+ poor machine settings are reasons of 2nitting defects occurring in the fa#ric? Most 2nitting defects are not removed during processing? .oles and c"ttin*s are the portion of the fa#ric+ which has #een cut or where no 2nitting has ta2en place? %hey may vary from very minute in siGe to very large? Needle b!ea' occurs when the machine fails to 2nit due to a #ro2en needle? %his appears as long vertical lines of missing yarnI sometimes e1tending up to 2 meter? )tain of machine oil and dirt are acHuired in the fa#ric during handling of the fa#ric? %hey are removed during washing? )in'e! Line is a calendar line that appears in whole roll of fa#ric+ as small strea2s due to stiff sin2ers? -nit/in faults are missing or overlapped loops and they occur due to wrong machine timings+ or when the needle fails to ma2e loop or 2noc2 off? Needle ma!'s occur in the fa#ric due to dirt and oil accumulated in the needle or due to improper needle siGe? Fl# is loose fluff trapped in the yarn during 2nitting? It is removed during processing? Ed*e 'nittin* occurs in collars and ri#s when the flat#ed-2nitting machine fails to 2nit at the edge turning? -nittin* tension va!iations due to improper cam settings+ or machine stoppages manifest in the 2nit fa#ric in form of uneven elastic #ehavior?

%here are norms for every fault that appears in the #olt pertaining to its freHuency of occurrence and dimensions+ which would lead to its reCection? "or e?g? a roll having more than 1* holes will #e reCected? %he chec2er 2eeps the num#er of defects he has come across in his mind and #ased on his e1perience and the minimum

reCection criterion @4 point A3& systemB he approves or reCects a roll? %he roll if reCected is pasted with a red stic2er and sent #ac2 to vendor for replacement? If accepted+ it is pasted with green stic2er and 2ept in store until sent for dyeing? An inspection register is maintained to 2eep trac2 of every roll inspected? Processed fabric inspection .yed and other processed goods are #est inspected manually due to the pro#lems in recognition of minute variations? %wo chec2ers do this Co# on large ta#les @measuring )$?! inches 4(?! inchesB arranged in a row? 4oth sides of the tu#ular fa#ric are chec2ed one after another? Alteration stic2ers are placed wherever the fault is found? 4esides the faults mentioned #efore+ some dyein& defe#ts also creep in the fa#ric during uneven processing and poor handling of the fa#ric? )t!ea's of different shade occur due to uneven dyeing? %hey appears as horiGontal #ars in the fa#ric? Ya!n ba!!iness or often-called #a!n patta is characteriGed #y a ridge or mar2 running in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fa#ric? 4arriness can #e caused #y tension variations in the 2nitting process+ poor Huality yarns or pro#lems during the finishing process? )hadin* ()ide )elved*e o! end to end) is a condition when shade variation is seen from the selvedges towards the center or from one end of the fa#ric to other? It is caused due to improper windup during dyeing? 0o(in* and )'e(ness are very common faults in 2nits+ occurring due to #ad material handling during processing? %hey throw the fa#ric out of grain i?e? the courses and the wales no longer remain perpendicular to each other?

R-efer to Appendi1 4 for various types of woven fa#ric faults /very defect encountered is mar2ed with an arrow stic2er? A fa#ric chec2ing report is filled which gives the details a#out the defects found? After the chec2ing is done the fa#ric is repac2ed in large poly-#ags and graded according to the standards set #y company? %he grades are as follows: Ist Class Q 6o defects IInds;Mended Class Q .efects are present #ut under acceptance level? %hese defects can #e mended to first class #y su#seHuent processing? -eCected Q .efects are present #eyond acceptance level

%he fa#ric under Ist and IInd category are pasted with 5reen stic2er and 2ept in store while the reCected one is pasted with red stic2er and sent #ac2 to the vendor? %hese stic2ers provide information li2e tyle+ Color+ &ot no+ %u#e iGe+ 5 M+ remar2s and chec2ed #y?

Jardages from accepted goods are sent for la# testing+ which is done on few meters of cloth #y the testing department? %he report is sent to the merchant for #uyerDs approval? Accordingly the fa#ric is sent for mending @washing+ re dyeing etc?B? <nless the #uyer is satisfied with the fa#ric Huality+ the fa#ric will not #e issued from the store? STO/AGE Purchase 7rder
-eceived A

-ac2ing system of storage is followed i?e? fa#ric pac2ages are stored in the rac2s in two areas: @aB Chec2ed "a#ric and @#B <nchec2ed "a#ric? %hey are further fa#ric segregated on the #asis of tyle no and &ot wise? %he Processed fa#ric is put in the rac2s with "a#ric -eHuirement inspection theprepared help of "or2 &ift and pallets? uch a systematic maintenance of the store ma2es it is easy to locate the fa#ric whenever needed in future? FA7/IC ISS1E
-eHuirement raised to the vendors %he fa#ric store

issues the fa#ric to for cutting on reproduction of the Co# card? All fa#ric is not issued at one goI instead it is issued as reHuired? %he Co# card contains information regarding style no+ color+ #uyerDs name+ and Huantity to #e issued and issued for which production unit? %he fa#ric department then issuesend the fa#ric report to 9endor finaliGed if details Processed fa#ric in In- the Co# card? merchant for #uyerDs according to the as furnished sample fa#ric is 7E house approval "a#ric store also 2eeps the fa#ric li#rary of the company updated with the new and order is placed fa#rics coming in store? "OC1$ENTATION 5reige fa#ric
In-house with fa#ric receiving report "a#ric store has end for redyeing+ washing etc?
6o

Physical chec2ing

&a# testing

a huge documentation wor2 as well? 4ar coding has lent a helping hand in it and eased the tas2 of record 2eeping? 6evertheless+ following records are Jes also manually maintained:
Physical fa#ric )toc' inspection

Approve dL

In store and ready date for issue Receivin* Re*iste! for information li2e fa#ric received from where+ when and in how much Huantity? Iss"in* Re*iste! for information regarding the fa#ric issued to the dyeing mills? -eCected &ot entfor to vendor for Chec'in* Re*iste! information a#out the rolls inspected+ 5 M+ %u#e accepted replacement width+ faults and num#er of rolls approved and passed? or 1)M Reco!d Re*iste! for 5 M of all the fa#ric rolls is stored in the house+ reCected along with their swatches? Pendin* Chec'in* )tat"s Repo!t maintained on daily #asis for information Accepted regarding the rolls that are pending for chec2ing? 5oods and IN FA7/IC STO/E pac2ed Fab!ic Chec'in* Repo!t+ which states5O/8F0O5 the type and num#er of defects and sent for dyeing with whether the roll is reCected or passed? dyeing program

Re*iste! for information a#out the stoc2 present in the store at a given

.yed goods received

Trim store

%rims store houses all 2ind of accessories called trims? %rims li2e sewing thread are used to form stitches in fa#ricI #uttons+ laces etc? give the garment a complete loo2I while la#els etc? give important information a#out the garment? %rim store also 2eeps stoc2 of the stationary for the company and pac2age material for production? <nli2e fa#ric+ trims are very small in dimension so they need a very careful and systematic storage system in order to prevent time and money loss? 6on-availa#ility of trims on time may lead to suspension and delay in production? A well-managed trim store must #e a#le to cater to all the needs of the sampling and production departments? 7ASIC 5O/8F0O5 As per #uyerDs need the merchandiser ma2es a trims card in which samples of all the trims that are going to #e associated with a particular style are attached? %he trims card other than trims contains information li2e Huantity+ color+ style no+ #uyer+ vendor etc? It also states the siGe and content of the trims? %his trim sheet is handed over to purchase department #y the merchandiser? <sually !O more than reHuired trims are procured as they are su#Cected to defects+ leading to reCection? 0astage of trims is also high? %he purchase department orders the trims of reHuired specification and reHuired Huantity as specified in the trims card? %he order is placed with either a local vendor or specially imported? %he #uyer may also nominate the suppliers of the trims? %he merchandiser must get any locally procured trim approved #y the #uyer? 7nly after his approval is the order is placed? %rim store receives the ordered trims and stores it? All the trims are in housed much #efore the production commences #ecause they do not come in specific lots li2e the fa#ric? .epending upon the availa#ility with the vendors+ trims are sent? Imported trims mostly come from =ong Eong and ingapore? Che#)in& and appro(al 7nce the trims are in housed a random chec2ing is done? "irstly+ the siGes and specifications of the trims are matched with the ones on the trims card? %hen samples of each type of trims are chec2ed for Huality? %he Huantity of the trims is also chec2ed? &a# testing @li2e testing #utton pull strength+ snap fastener testing and thread testing etc?B is also done if specified #y the #uyer? %hen a physical chec2ing of the whole lot ta2es place where each individual piece is physically chec2ed for defects? %rims that do not meet the acceptance level are reCected and separated from the rest? %hese reCected pieces are sent #ac2 to the vendor for replacement? A chec2ing report is also maintained for imported trims+ giving details li2e style no+ #uyer+ vendor+ shortage+ reCection and approved Huantity etc? %his report is sent to merchandiser and the purchase department?

After chec2ing a trims swatch card is prepared? %he swatch card carries all the trims for a particular style and information li2e the #uyer+ vendor+ style no? etc? %his swatch card is sent to the merchandiser for approval? Merchandiser chec2s the trims with the one he ordered and if it complies with his #uyerDs reHuirements+ he approves it and sends it #ac2 to trims store? %he trims are now pac2ed and stored style wise? %hey are ready to #e issued to the production department? eparate rac2s are allocated to different trims where they are further separated style-wise? People from the su# units of trim store or the production department approach the trim store as and when they reHuire the trims? %rims store too have information that which style will #e produced where and which trims are reHuired when and in how much Huantity? %he trims are issued against a Co# card produced to them? Samplin& Se#tion of Trim Store %rim tore has its own sampling section also where trims are solely stored for sampling department? Merchandiser and designers visits the trim store whenever they are wor2ing on a new sample? Anything useful can #e issued on an invoice? If the trims reHuired are not availa#le+ they file a reHuest with the trim store to procure the reHuired trims of certain specifications in reHuired Huantity? %rim store sources the reHuest and ma2es it availa#le for the merchandiser to help them in sampling process? TYPES OF T/I$S 0a els and ta&s: Main la#el+ siGe la#el+ wash care la#el+ country of origin la#el+ loop la#el+ content la#el+ time la#el+ carton stic2ers+ <niHue Price Code tic2ets+ &icense =ang tags+ logo transfer etc? 7'ttons and fasteners: Availa#le in different siGes and material+ hoo2s+ rivets+ 9elcro tape etc? Se.'ins+ dimonties and colors nap #uttons+

eads: /m#roidery accessory in variety of shapes and

Threads: ewing and em#roidery threads? Interlinin& and F'sin& material+ shoulder pad+ paper foam etc Tape+ ri ons+ la#es: houlder tape+ nec2 tape+ mo#ilon tape+ twill tape+ satin laces+ elastic ri##ons+ #raids etc? Em roidery pat#hes+ Transfer prints

Needles+ Dippers Pa#)in& $aterial: Poly #ags+ hangers+ adhesive tape+ cartons+ tissue paper+ 2im#les Stationery li2e Cad -oll paper+ -eceive alteration stic2ers+ record #oo2s etc? %rims card R-efer to Appendi1 " for the different types of %rims
Purchase depDt orders trims and costing done

from merchandiser

-eceive from vendor

Chec2 for general Huality and Huantity

Physical chec2ing of individual trims

watch card prepared

ent to merchandiser for #uyerDs approval

Approve dL
Jes

6o

-e order

Pac2 trims style wise as in trims sheet

Issued to production department;su# unit

5O/8F0O5 IN T/I$S STO/E

Fabric Library
Modelama has a huge collection of woven fa#rics+ which is displayed in its very systematic li#rary of fa#rics?

watches of fa#rics are arranged in the li#rary+ segregated on the #asis of fa#ric structure+ season content and yarn count? %hese swatches have complete information a#out the fa#ric including name of the fa#ric+ reference num#er+ content+ yarn count+ 5 M+ CPI;0PI+ tu#e width and special finishes? %he li#rary helps the designers+ merchandisers and even the #uyers to e1plore the fa#ric varieties availa#le with factory? 6ewly launched fa#rics from the vendors are also displayed here? 0henever a new fa#ric comes in the store+ yardages are procured from it and stored in the li#rary? %hey are sent for la# testing and report are filed for any future reference? amples are e1hi#ited on hanger cards or simple swatch cards 2ept in rac2s? %he li#rary also displays mood #oards for the current season? ?

Production, Planning and Control

%he function of PPC department is to produce the reHuired product with minimum total cost and time for the delivery reHuired? It monitors the progress of the production of any and every individual product from the receipt of raw material to the shipment of order?

7nce the purchase order is received from the #uyer and the pre-production sample finaliGed+ the production procedure starts? %he merchant prepares the production pac2age file containing all the details regarding the production and shipment of the order and hands it over to the PPC department? =ere the wor2 of a merchandiser ceases and that of the PPC department #egins? %his pac2age is studied thoroughly for the production delivery of the goods for shipment? According to the target date the PPC department shall schedule the entire production process? %hus PPC has to actually schedule KwhatD and KwhereD an activity has to #e done and KwhenD? It prepares a time ta#le for all the activities li2e: "a#ric reHuisition "a#ric status for issue %rims status for issue "a#ric issue to cutting Cut order ready for issue on floor /m#roidery program 0ash program Assem#ly "inishing Pac2ing hipment

Correct estimation of the time that each activity would ta2e is very important- this #eing most crucial in case of garment assem#ly? "or this the PPC department sends the Production pac2age to the logistics and -,. department+ which conducts a time study for the style and give their estimated time of production? Accordingly the PPC allocates different styles to different units depending upon the order Huantity and delivery date? "rom the data of the time study conducted #y the Production targets are set for the production floor for each month+ wee2+ day and hour? %his is an important decision #ecause only correct inputs will lead to desired output? Control means not Cust setting targets #ut #ringing the actual near to the standard? PPC monitors every stage of production and it is responsi#le for deciding an appropriate action that must #e ta2en to change the plan whenever production is #ehind the planned schedule? It ma2es sure that the reHuired product is produced with minimum total cost and time for reHuired delivery? "or this PPC has a huge data#ase of records helps the controllers in following up and telling the what+ when+ and where of an action?

Logistics & Research and Development

&ogistics is the Methods department of 7rient Craft &td? Activities carried out in this department forms the #ac2#one of the entire production department? =ere the industrial engineer determines not only which is the #est machine to #e used for a reHuired process #ut also which is the #est method for using the machine and training the operator to achieve ma1imum production efficiency? 7nce the Production+ planning and control department gets the order file from the merchandiser+ it instructs the logistics department to prepare for setting up a new line on the floor? Along with the approved PP sample+ the file is forwarded to this department with important documents li2e: 5arment Inspection -eport Pre-Production Comment sheet .esign 0or2 heet "a#ric -eference ample "a#ric %est -eport 5arment Accessories %est -eport Accessories and %rim Card Purchase 7rder heet

"a#ric 7rder heet

ACTI2ITIES OF T3E "EPA/T$ENT %he maCor functions of &ogistics .epartment include: Ma2ing the &inear ynchro flow &ine Plan Prepare %hread Consumption report Conduct %ime and Motion study Prepare floor layout 5enerate machine population report ale and purchase of machines Monitor production control reports- =ourly+ .aily and wee2ly? Monitor finishing report Monitor em#roidery report Monitor P/-C report Monitor needle report

%he first four functions are essentially pre-production responsi#ilities of the industrial engineers of logistics and are carried out in conCunction with the -esearch and .evelopment department? At 7C& the department has a team of ) personnel: enior logistics manager &ogistics manager $ engineers and a cler2 %he department wor2ing in co-ordination with the planning department esta#lishes the daily factory targets and follows up on the same? A daily hourly production score monitor is also maintained wherein every assem#ly line output is availa#le on hourly #asis? %he machine maintenance department performs the ne1t two functions? "inally the remaining duties are carried out while the production is going on to 2eep the lines #alanced on floor?

$a)in& of 0inear Syn#hro Flo! 0ine Plan %he following three things are covered under this: 1? 4rea2 .own of 7perations 2? 6o of machines 3? 6o of operators

In this they study the approved sample carefully and all the documents related to the sample provided in the file? %his helps them to identify e1actly how the garment is made? %hen they do the operation #rea2 down of the sample where they try to 2eep the handling of the garments as minimum as possi#le and also try to ma2e the simplest way of completing the garment? %he aim is simplifying the sewing process+ minimum handling+ increased efficiency+ there#y meeting the target hourly or daily production figure? %he operations are #ro2en down into simple steps and the type of stitch used at a particular place is also ascertained? All these operations are put in a flow or an order the #est suited to complete the garment effectively and efficiently? %his flow and #rea2 down of operations is called &inear ynchro "low &ine Plan? In this num#er of machines are also allocated to the respective operations depending upon the target production to #e achieved daily and depending upon the time study of operations done previously? B5O/8ING ON 0INEA/ SYNC3/O F0O5 $AN1FACT1/ING SYSTE$ %he logistics department has #een set up to ensure smooth flow of production through linear synchronal flow production system and to reduce the production costs #y introduction of simplified production systems? <nder the linear synchronic flow production system+ the garment construction wor2 is carried out in an assem#ly line? %he line is designed #y e1amining the operation seHuence to construct a garment and the time reHuired to carry out each operation? %he departmentDs role starts after receiving the production pac2age from the PPC department? %he following study is carried out: %he production engineer reads the production pac2age thoroughly and on #asis of the approved sample ma2es a machine configuration plan in which+ the style is #ro2en down operation wise i?e? operation #rea2down and flow of the garment is also esta#lished? A time and motion study of each operation is conducted and accordingly target is esta#lished for that particular assem#ly line? %he num#er of machines and manpower reHuired is allocated to each operation of the garment on the #asis of the target output reHuired? 7nce the a#ove has #een esta#lished+ the engineer lays down the line on the production floor as per the machine plan? %he engineer starts the line #y feeding only one garment so as to chec2 the flow of the garment and to ensure that all operators and helpers 2now a#out their respective operations and Co#s? %he first garment is audited thoroughly for construction+ measurements etc? and any 2ind of machine adCustments reHuired are carried out? 6ow the production line is capa#le for producing the said garment? %he engineer 2eeps the control of the feed in the line with the help of a stopwatch? "irst four hours- 7ne piece is fed every three minutes+ so that the operators and helpers get accustomed to their respective Co#s?

6e1t four hours- 7ne garment if fed every two minutes+ only after o#serving that the line is running smoothly and without any #ottlenec2s?

7n the second day+ feed to the line is increased to two garments per minute and the engineer ensures that there are no #ottle nec2s in the line? 0hen the production line achieves the set target+ which is normally achieved on the third day+ the line is handed over to the production manager? 6ow it is the Co# of the production manager to see that the line is properly managed in terms of machinists+ helpers+ supervisors+ chec2ers+ and endline chec2ers? Production manager also has to ensure that there is a continuous feed for the line to achieve its daily target? Thread Cons'mption9 In this the sample is studied for different stitch types at different parts of the garments and the num#er of threads in different colors is? Also+ which thread is #eing used in which part of the machine @needle+ #o##in+ looperB is also o#served #ecause the needle thread to looper thread ratio determines the consumption of thread? %he ratio of needle thread to looper thread varies from machine to machine+ there#y affecting the consumption of the thread? %his ratio is pre-determined depending upon previous calculations? After o#serving the stitch type+ threads #eing used in needle and loopers and #o##ins+ color of the threads #eing used+ and the ratio of consumption of the thread+ the total thread that is reHuired is calculated? %hereafter+ 2!O wastage for thread is added for needle thread and looper thread respectively? In this way the final consumption of thread needle and looper wise and color wise is calculated? Time and $otion St'dy %ime and Motion study is conducted when #uyers as2s for it or when an un2nown style garment comes in for production? It is also done if the production department puts in a reHuest for e1tra machines and at times when the production output of that particular style is not coming meeting the set targets? %ime study is done to determine how much time is consumed to do a particular operation in the garment? Motion study is study of the physical activities of the sewing operator when he indulges in completing a particular operation? 4y doing motion study we can ascertain the #est possi#le method of completing a tas2 and there#y+ reducing or eliminating the wasteful movements? In time study the time for a particular operation is noted with help of stopwatch for a fi1ed num#er of pieces? %he thread #rea2age time+ machine out of order+ waiting for feed etc are also ta2en in to account? At last the average time ta2en to complete one particular operation on one piece is calculated and with help of this time the reHuired num#er of machines for that operation are allocated as per the set target? %his activity and other activities related to the research of #etter operator methods and development of efficient guides;attachments etc? to achieve Huality production

are responsi#ility of the - , . department? %hey are carried for a style Cust #efore the production has to #e started? %he flowchart at the end of this e1plains the role of - , . department #efore the production of a new line? An efficient and relia#le - , . department minimiGes the ris2s that the production manager has to ta2e in his Co#? Floor 0ayo't9 In floor layout the methods engineer has to determine the #est arrangement of machines+ without ma2ing it a hindrance for the operator to wor2 and at the same time utiliGing the resources in the most efficient way @i?e? no machine idle+ no wor2er overloadedB? 4esides this+ decision on where to place inspection stations is also ta2en to implement the endline count monitoring system @Rsee Assem#lyB and meet the Huality standards reHuired? $a#hine Pop'lation /eport9 &ogistics department 2eeps record of all the machines that it has in its possession? It maintains the record of the machines present on different production units and in store in the maintenance department? /ach machine is given a uniHue num#er? Against this num#er the information li2e the ma2e of the machine+ model num#er+ head num#er and at which production unit that machine is present is recorded? %his report is prepared on monthly #asis to 2eep trac2 of the num#er of machines present at each production unit and num#er of machines present in the maintenance department? P'r#hase of $a#hines9 ItDs the Co# of the logistics department to purchase the machine as and when reHuired? All the dealings related to the sale of machines+ machine parts and guides and attachments etc is done #y logistics department? .ispatch of machines where reHuired and sales and purchase activities are followed up with the help of the records li2e machine population reports+ inventory record etc? Prod'#tion /eport9 &ogistics department also 2eeps record of the production that ta2es place in the different production units headed #y different production managers? Production scores are maintained on hourly+ daily and monthly #asis? %his is done to 2eep trac2 of the orders #eing made and to see how much production has #een completed for different orders and how much is still left? %he production figures are compared with the production targets set for them #y PPC and if the target is not #eing achieved then the reason for it is ascertained @for e?g? reHuirement of more machinery etc?B Finishin& /eport9 Fust as the production report is maintained for each production unit in the same manner the finishing report for each line of each production unit is maintained? %he

num#er of pieces that have come for finishing on a particular day and num#er of pieces finished and pac2ed and num#er of them sent #ac2 for alteration+ all such things are maintained in the finishing report? Em roidery /eport9 &ogistics department also 2eeps trac2 of the num#er of pieces of each production line of each production unit that have #een sent for em#roidery to the em#roidery department? %he num#er of pieces sent+ num#er of pieces left to #e sent+ num#er of pieces received #ac2 from em#roidery section and num#er of pieces still in em#roidery department+ all these figures are recorded in the em#roidery report? Per# /eport9 Perc report is prepared for the pieces of each production line of each production unit that have #een sent for Perc? %he num#er of pieces sent+ num#er of pieces left to #e sent+ num#er of pieces received #ac2 from washing section and num#er of pieces still in washing department+ all these figures are recorded in the Perc report? Needle /eport9 &ogistics department also 2eeps record of the num#er of needles #ro2en and num#er of needle issued in lieu of #ro2en needles to the particular line of a particular production unit? %he sewing operator is issued new needles only when he returns #ac2 the old #ro2en needle with all the parts? %hat #ro2en needle is pasted on the needle chart which is a part of the needle policy of the company? %his ensures that there has #een utmost care ta2en to see that no needle part is left into the garment while it is through the sewing operation?

Machine Maintenance
Apart form having Huality systems and the #est practices+ Kmachine maintenanceD is also a very important area to get KHualityD products? <naccepta#le Huality of products often results from ill-maintained machines? 4rea2down and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively? Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor? %he function of P-/9/6%I9/ MAI6%/6A6C/ includes: Care of the fittings AdCusting settings 7il changing 5raph maintenance

7utward;inward reports 6eedle wee2ly reports Machine configuration charts 6eedle movement chart &aser stoc2 =istory card 6eedle log cards

%he fa#ric used+ the percentage of needle time+ the speed of machine and operator handling are the factors+ which determine how often the machine reHuires cleaning? 7n the floor+ the maintenance shop has a maintenance card for each machine+ listing the date a mechanic serviced the machine+ who serviced it+ what was done to it and why? A series of similar repairs occurring sooner than normal+ would signal maintenance that something is radically wrong with the machine or that the machine is #eing misused #y the operator and the matter is chec2ed out immediately? %he general procedure of preventive maintenance for sewing machines involves the following steps: -emove the face plate and clean it -emove the needle plate and clean the feed dog -emove the #elt guard and clean it AdCust the 9-4elt tension %ight the @SB stand and thread stand Chec2 the oil lu#ricating pipe? If any damage replace it? Chec2 all the timings and adCust it Control panel cleaning- Clean the PC 4oard with soft crush? .o not clean with #low air or use suction device Clean the synchroniGer properly Eeep the sewing ta#le clean? .o not allow any one to put the stic2er on the ta#le

%he maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise? /very production floor is provided with a team of 2 mechanics+ 1 assistant and 1 helper+ which ta2e care of the day to day maintenance+ #rea2downs and settings of the machine? 0henever there is a #rea2down of the machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is replaced with new machine from the stoc2 so that production is not disrupted? 7il chec2ing is done on wee2ly #asis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machines is done every three months? A wor2shop in this department caters to the need of new ma2ing new folders+ guides and modifying other attachments as developed #y the -esearch and .evelopment department for #etter production? It is also the Koperation theatreD for the machines? Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities? Its purchase section has trac2 of every inventory including a needle present in the

factory stoc2 and procures new inventory whenever needed? maintained with utmost discipline? The maintenan#e department sto#) of ma#hines9
$AC3INE 0OC8STITC3 2A/IATION ingle needle .ou#le needle - "i1ed 4ar - plit #ar ingle needle .ou#le needle - %andem needle - traight needle 3 %hread 4 %hread ! %hread $ %hread F0AT0OC8 3 %hread 4 %hread ! %hread $ %hread SPECIA0IDE" SE5ING $AC3INE/Y hell stitch Picotting "igotting Pearl stitch 4lind =emming SigGag machine calloping 4ac2 latch /lastication 4uttonhole machine 4utton stitch machine TYPE 1 needle+ 1 #o##in 2 needles+ 2 #o##ins

toc2 register is

C3AINSTITC3

1 needle+ 1 looper 2 needles+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 2 loopers 2 needles+ 2 loopers 2 needles+ 3 loopers 3 needles+ 3 loopers 2 needles+ 1 looper 2 needles+ 1 looper+ 1 spreader 3 needles+ 1 looper+ 1 spreader 4 needles+ 1 looper+ 1 spreader 1 needle+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 1 looper 2 needles+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 1 #o##in 1 needle+ 1 looper @ preaderB 2 needles+ 2 loopers 2 needle+ 2 loopers 1 needle+ 1 #o##in 1 needle+ 1 #o##in

O2E/0OC8

1TI0ITY Plac2et ma2ing+ top stitching+ edge stitching+ la#el ma2ing+ safety stitch+ attaching self-fa#ric nec2 #inding tape 6ec2 ri#+ shoulder piping+ cuff top stitching+ shoulder top stitching houlder seam ide seam+ <nderarm seam+ /lastication+ houlder seam %rouser in seam Armhole seam+ houlder seam 6ec2 #inding+ cuff #inding+ #ottom hemming Cover seam+ #ottom hemming /lastication ide seam

.ecorative purpose+ .ense over loc2+ /lastication+ Piping+ =emming+ ecuring of stitch etc

4utton hole ma2ing 4utton attaching

%he types of feed used in the machines present on the floor: %op feed .rop feed 9aria#le feed .ifferential feed

Puller feed Compound feed -everse feed

%he types of eds availa#le with the machines present on the floor: "lat #ed Cylinder #ed Post #ed "eed of arm

Types of needles and their norms: NEE"0E SYSTE$S

$AC3INE NA$E ingle 6eedle &oc2stitch ingle 6eedle Chain titch;"lat ingle 6eedle "eed .ou#le 6eedle &oc2stitch %andom 6eedle &oc2stitch .ou#le 6eedle Chain titch 7ver &oc2 "lat &oc2 Picotting colpping mo2ing hell titch Pic2; addle titch 4ar tac2 4utton titch @ han2 4uttonB 4utton titch 4utton titch Chain titch 4utton =ole ?7?=? Machine SigGag i1 %hread Cover eam Machine Plac2et Ma2ing NEE"0E 7/AN" N1$7E/ .4T1 <JT12( ; %9T3 .4T1 .PT1 <JT12( ; %9T3 <JT12( ; %9T3 .CT1 ; .CT2' <JT12( ; .9T43 <7T1$3 ; %9T' <JT12( ; .9T43 .9ET2! ; .9T!' & -1!1 .4T1 , CPT12 C-7 IJA 12 .PT! ; .PT1' %3T3 .PT! ; .PT1' %3T1 ; %3T' .PT! <JT12( ; .9T43 .4T1 <7T11( .PT(!

Se!in& ma#hine needle systems #ommonly 'sed in India

CO$$ON SYSTE$S IN ASIA .4T1 up to siGe 11*T( iGe 12* onwards .4T1 .PT1+ .PT! .PT1' EA1I2A0ENT G/OD 7EC8E/T SYSTE$ 1'3( 134 13!T1+ 134 13!T1' APP0ICATION &oc2stitch &oc2stitch &oc2stitch &oc2stitch

.CT1 .CT2' .9T1 <JT12(5 <71135A <711(5 /4T1 411'+ 411( &0T2% .4T! /4T'$! %3T1 %3T' <7)(4(5 <71)'!5 .ET1 .6T1 .4T1 .4TE! .4T1 =T1 =T3 &(3 %9T1 %9T!

(1T1 42' .9T1;<J1215 <J12(5A <J1135 <J11(5A 4)* 411'+411( 2)4& 134 !*1 C 1)(! 2*)1 <J)(4(4 <J1)'!5 <J1)'*5 <J1435 .4T1 .4TE! 1'3( (!4 11* &(3;&(3%7P 14)T1 14)T!

7verloc2 "latloc2 "lat seamer /lastic attachment 3uilting machine oc2s lining machine =emming;4lind stitch 4uttonholing -eece #utton holing machine 4utton sewing 4utton sewing 4ag closing 4ag closing 4ag closing 4ag closing 4ag closing Multi head /m#roidery chiffle em#roidery chiffle em#roidery chiffle em#roidery %wo needle dou#le lap seam and feed off the arm machine for Ceans %wo needle dou#le lap seam and feed off the arm machine for Ceans

A whole range of atta#hments are also used li2e: % 5uide wing guide Magnetic guide 3-corner guide 4earing elastic holder -ight tape stand %op tape stand 4ottom tape stand -ight compensating presser foot &eft compensating presser foot -ight;&eft slim compensating foot .ou#le compensating presser foot 3uilting foot %eflon foot /dge foot Sipper foot Imitation folder

Plait folder Plait hemmer Plait #inder %op stitch attachments Cuff setter 0aist#and folder Piping #inder /dge #inder Pin tuc2 attachment 4utton hole;#utton stitch spacing gauge han2 #utton stitch clamp

CAD Room
%he Information %echnology wave is sweeping across the glo#e creating never #efore environment that offers e1ponential escalation of human mental capacities? CA. or Computer Aided .esigning is one such area where the efficiency of computer technology has #een intelligently e1ploited in the field of apparel manufacturing? CA. uses softwares+ which can #e used creatively to design garments+ ma2e patterns and develop efficient mar2ers for the purpose of precise and efficient cutting and spreading? 7rient Craft has its own CA. department where patterns for varied style garments are made with help of &/C%-A software pac2age? $AC3INE/Y AN" SOFT5A/E 1SE" %he machinery and software #eing used #y the CA. department is as follows: &ectra oftware pac2age o Modaris o .ameno o /#avet o 9igi Print

o Fust Print &ectra .igitiGer 4oard &ectra .igitiGing Mouse @1$ 2eysB 5raphtec C/ 2***-1(* AP Alys 3* and "ly Pen

$odaris9 Modaris software is used to construct patterns of garments of varied styles and do the grading as well? "ameno9 .ameno is used to do mar2er planning for various siGes of a style? Mar2er planning is the process of developing the Cigsaw li2e diagram that is superimposed on the top of a lay of plies as a guide for cutting these plies into the reHuired components? E a(et9 %his is the central software+ which ena#les importing and e1porting of the files from Modaris to .ameno? 2i&i Print9 9igi Print utility software is used to plot the patterns made with help of mar2er? E'st Print9 imilar to 9igi Print+ Fust Print is also used for printing the mar2er plans? 0e#tra "i&iti4er 7oard9 It is a solid plastic #oard mounted on a stand+ which provides a flat surface needed to digitiGe the manually made patterns to ena#le pattern correction and grading? %he patterns are fi1ed temporarily on the #oard with the help of adhesive tape? %hereafter digitiGing is done with help of digitiGing mouse? 0e#tra "i&iti4in& $o'se F *? 8eys9 %he digitiGing mouse resem#les the normal mouse+ which we use with a computer? %he only difference lies in the num#er of 2eys? &ectra .igitiGing Mouse is cordless and has 1$ 2eys+ each having a specific function? %he mouse is moved on the defined outline of the pattern+ which digitiGes specific 1+ y critical points used to trace a line of the e1act patternDs perimeter? %hese data is put into computerDs memory and used for pattern correction and grading? Graphte# CE <----*G- AP9 5raphtec is a printer used for printing of patterns on a hard #rown sheet? It uses a #allpoint pen to ma2e pattern outline and scri##le details li2e style num#er+ pattern name+ #uyer name+ cut order+ siGe+ fa#ric type+ grain line etc? on each pattern+ which it will ma2e? A cutter installed in the machine carriage+ wor2s alternately with the pen and cuts out the patterns from the #rown sheet along the lines drawn #y the pen?

%his #rown sheet comes in dimensions of 1** meters length and 3$ inches width and is fed in form of a roll? Alys H- and Fly Pen9 %hese are the plotters used to print the mar2ers on to the white mar2er sheet? %he mar2er sheet is availa#le in rolls of 2** meters and width of $2 inch or 44 inch? F1NCTIONS OF CA" /OO$ CA. department is responsi#le for the following functions: .etermining cutting average for costingR Ma2ing the most efficient cutting mar2er .evelopment and alteration of patterns .evelopment of siGe set patterns #y grading BFa ri# #ons'mption and #'ttin& a(era&e At the end of mar2er planning+ the CA. department produces a fa#ric consumption sheet for the merchandiser and the cutting department? %his sheet contains the num#er of pieces per mar2er plan and specifies which siGe is to #e cut in how much Huantity? It also gives the consumption of fa#ric per garment piece+ which shall #e used for costing of the garment #y the merchandiser? "a#ric consumption per garment is defined in terms of cutting average? %he order given #y the #uyer contains a num#er of siGes? %he cutting average is calculated for a siGe in #etween the largest and the smallest grades? "or e?g? if the order contains the siGes &+ 8& and 88& then average will #e theoretically determined for the siGe 8& @#ecause consumption of fa#ric for the largest and the smallest grades will #e #alancedB? It is calculated for every mar2er plan+ in the following manner:
C'ttin& a(era&e I Area of one pie#e in the mar)er :#m<; GS$ of the fa ri# *----

0here+
Area of one pie#e I 0en&th of the fa ri# :#m; T' e "iameter :#m; Total n'm er of pie#es in the mar)er

A num#er of factors affect cutting average parameter @and hence the cost of the garmentB? %hese are: GS$ of the fa ri#- .uring purchase+ 2nitted fa#ric is specified in terms of weight @i?e? 5 M given #y the #uyer fa#ric widthB? "or a fi1ed tu#e width+ higher 5 M values within a lot will increase the total weight and hence the average will KCumpD? %hus the cost of raw material and that of the production of the garment will increase?

T' e !idth- Cutting mar2er is planned according to a fi1ed tu#e width? 4ut this parameter may not #e again constant within a lot? %he same mar2er cannot #e used for a smaller tu#e width? A new mar2er must #e planned which may see an increased consumption of fa#ric? imilarly in case of higher tu#e widths the cut ratio plan will have to #e re-made and consumption may increase? Shrin)a&e- hrin2age increases the 5 M of the fa#ric? If the fa#ric has high shrin2age then its dimensions will reduce? %his means more fa#ric will #e reHuired to produce the same garment? =ence the cost will increase? /atio of the si4es to e #'t- As mentioned earlier+ cutting average is determined for an Kin-#etweenD siGe assuming that the consumption of the fa#ric in other siGes will #alance each other? 4ut it may happen that the ratio of the siGes that have to #e cut cannot #e adCusted in all the mar2ers producing the same average? In such a case the calculating average #ecomes a more complicated process with increased chances of rise in consumption? Fa ri# layo't>type- %he layout of the fa#ric also affects the fa#ric consumption? 7ne-way fa#rics+ engineered stripe fa#ric+ one way prints etc? pose greater restrictions on the way the patterns are laid on the mar2er? =ence the cutting average for these fa#rics is higher? "e&ree of pattern amendment- /very pattern amendment reHuires re ma2ing the cutting mar2er which may increase or decrease the fa#ric reHuirement? o it is very important to ma2e the patterns right?

7ASIC 5O/8F0O5 "irstly+ the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CA. -oom: Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all measurements 5raded measurement spec sheet "a#ric detail sheet containing information li2e fa#ric form @open roll or tu#ular formB+ tu#e siGe+ 5 M @5rams per Huare MeterB+ type of fa#ric+ style no+ vendor+ #uyer etc? %hen the wor2 of the CA. room #egins? Style inp't into the #omp'ter system %here are three possi#le ways of feeding the pattern details in the system-#y use of large scanners @almost ( feet T 4 feetB+ direct pattern ma2ing #y feeding details or #y digitiGing? %he third method is followed at 7rient Craft i?e? pattern ma2ing is manually done #y the pattern master using details given in the spec sheet and then digitiGed into the system through digitiGer? %he first pattern is always made in medium siGe?

Di*iti,in*- %he pattern to #e digitiGed is placed and fi1ed on the plotting or the digitiGing #oard using adhesive tape? %hen with help of the cordless 1$ 2ey digitiGing mouse the pattern outline is traced? %he mouse has a cross printed on the e1tension proCecting from front of the mouse? %his cross indicates the origin of critical 1+ y points? %he mouse is moved along the grain of the pattern and this feeds the grain line direction? It is then moved along the outline of the pattern+ 2eeping the center point of cross e1actly on the 1+ y point to #e identified and clic2ing the appropriate #utton? In this way+ a replica of all the parts of the pattern is made in the computer in form of 1+ y coordinates+ which give the e1act perimeter of the pattern? 7nce the digitiGing is done+ remaining pattern details li2e style num#er+ pattern name+ #uyer name+ cut order+ siGe+ fa#ric type+ grain line etc? are fed through the 2ey#oard? %he patterns along with its details are saved in computerDs memory and can #e retrieved for correction+ grading+ mar2er planning or plotting any time in future? Pattern Corre#tion All corrections are incorporated in the pattern without fail as per #uyerDs comments? 0ith the help of mouse these patterns are altered digitally in the software Modaris Cust li2e we alter them manually? Measurements of the digitiGed pattern can #e chec2ed #y comparing its measurements with values fed manually in the software? Pattern &radin& 5rading is the most important part of the CA. system and is done using the software .ameno? 5rading of the pattern to any desired siGe is done according to the measurements provided in the graded spec sheet and using the medium siGe as the #ase pattern? Instructions of grading are fed in the computer memory and graded patterns printed out? 6ested graded patterns consist of a group of the various siGes of a pattern placed concentrically and progressively from the largest to the smallest siGe? 6ested grades are printed out first to ma2e sure that the graded patterns correspond correctly to re siGe differences #efore plotting them individually on the 5raphtec? C't /atio Plannin& As per the siGe wise ratio in the #uyerDs order+ the CA. department has to manually plan the cutting order? It has to decide the num#er plies in the lay+ num#er of mar2ers reHuired+ num#er of siGes that can #e placed at one instant and other particulars that would #e needed to cut the complete order within minimum time and cost? %he details reHuired to plan a cut order include: %ype of fa#ric @ olid+ chec2+ print+ one way+ two way etc?B %a#le length and width "a#ric width 6um#er of plies in one lay

 tyle average per garment 7rder ratio .epending upon the order ratio+ a num#er of mar2er plans may #e made such that the net average for each siGe comes out to #e the minimum? $ar)er Plannin& 7nce the cut order is ascertained+ we proceed for mar2er planning using the findings in the cut order? Mar2er planning is #asically a process of arranging a given num#er of pattern pieces @shown in miniature forms on the screenB in a specified width of fa#ric+ such that there is minimum wastage? %his is achieved #y interloc2ing the #ig and small patterns suita#ly while maintaining the reHuirements of grain line and cutting? %his mar2er will serve as guide for cutting the lay #y the electrically powered 2nives? %he first things needed to 2now for creating a mar2er are: Cuta#le fa#ric width 6um#er of siGes and Huantity in the mar2er %ype of fa#ric -eHuirement of matching stripes and chec2s Allowances and #loc2 margin for em#roidery program Mar2er ma2ing is of two types Q Automated and Manual? In automated mar2er ma2ing simply the instructions are fed in the computer and the most efficient mar2er under the reHuired conditions is o#tained? %his is generally used when the fa#ric is in open width and in solid colors? %he wastage in tu#ular fa#ric+ stripes and chec2s is difficult to control automatically so it is #est done manually? Mar2er plan here is not made to #e used as the cutting mar2er? Instead it is made to give a general idea to the cutting operator as to how he should proceed manually for mar2ing and cutting the #loc2s to get most efficiency? In the mar2er preparation+ first the fa#ric design @stripes+ chec2s+ print etc?B+ if any+ is positioned on the screen as a guide? %hen the lager pieces are arranged followed #y interloc2ing smaller pieces within the spaces? A num#er of mar2er plans may #e wor2ed out for the final cutting to get an overall ma1imum efficiency for the same style i?e? it is not necessary to include only one siGe in one mar2er or one siGe only once in all the mar2ers? %his totally depends upon the siGe wise ratio needed? O'tp't %he output of the mar2er plan is given on laser printer as well as the plotter? %he printer is used to o#tain a mini mar2er for #uyerDs reference and internal record? According to the reHuirement+ a num#er of full-scale copies are printed on large white sheets #y the plotter? %he mar2er is o#tained through plotter and is handed over to the merchandiser who shall forward it to the cutting room? Along with the mar2er a fa#ric consumption sheet is also made and sent to the merchandiser for final costing?

Cutting room
Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fa#ric as replicas of the pattern pieces in the mar2er for assem#ly operations? %his is carried out in the cutting rooman area+ which normally indicates the activities of mar2er planning+ spreading and preparation for sewing as well as #eing used to refer to actual cutting of garment parts from the lay? Mar2er planning at 7rient Craft is done in the CA. room? 5arments are cut in #ul2 simultaneously for which a lay is created+ with a num#er of plies spread one a#ove another? %he mar2er from CA. is fi1ed over the lay and it is cut with help of powerful electric cutters following the lines of the patterns? %he main o#Cective of the cutting department is to cut the parts accurately and economically and in sufficient volume to 2eep the production units supplied with wor2? 7ASIC 5O/8 F0O5 Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager? Cutting order is an authoriGation #y the production manager to cut a given amount of styles+ from the spreads? It comes in form of a pac2age file that carries the following details: ampling average+ weight of garment @#ase fa#ric consumption onlyB+ other trims averages Measurement sheet .esign wor2sheet of the garment Purchase order "a#ric reHuisition sheet CA. mini mar2er

Mar2er planning-length of lay etc?+ siGe ratio and colors in which the patterns are to #e cut?

Along with this an approved sample and patterns of all siGes or the mar2er are also sent? %he cutting department chec2s the fa#ric status in the store and acHuires it whenever the production manager sends the cut order? "irstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern @medium siGeB send #y the CA. room to chec2 for any amendments in pattern? %hese activities are co-coordinated #y the -,. department? 0hen the patterns are amended the production manager gets a siGe set cut and these pieces are stitched and the 3C on the floor locates any discrepancies related to pattern in the stitched garments? -eport with comments for alteration in the patterns is sent if needed and the pattern master allocated to that style corrects the patterns accordingly? %he mar2er planning is also done afresh to incorporate the changes? 7nly when the production manager is sure of the #ase pattern+ will he issue the Co# order for #ul2 cutting? All the fa#ric is not cut at one go? -ather it is cut as and when reHuired #y the production department against the Co# order? %he cutting department calculates the fa#ric Huantity reHuired the num#er of pieces mentioned in the Co# card using the average given #y the CA. department? A#out !O is cut more than reHuired to ma2e up for defective pieces or wastages in production? ACT1A0 C1TTING P/OCESS Enit fa#rics usually come in tu#ular form+ so the first step is always to cut it open in flat form? %he cutting process for solid dyed fa#rics and striped fa#ric is very different? <nli2e solids+ the striped fa#ric lay reHuires the plies to #e constantly matched for alignment of stripes within the spread+ after every step to eliminate out any inter ply shift and su#seHuent inaccurate cutting? %he two processes are discussed #elow: Solid #'ttin& Spreadin&

preading is the process of superimposing plies of fa#ric on a horiGontal ta#le in a manner+ which permits these plies to #e cut simultaneously into product components accepta#le for assem#ly? "or this+ first of all a thin #rown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting ta#le using an adhesive tape to prevent the #ottom plies from shifting during cutting? %hen the actual spreading process #egins with the laying of first fa#ric layer on this #rown sheet and su#seHuently the other plies are laid? %he spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically #y the spreading machine? 0hile manual spreading is time consuming+ the use of traveling machine gives faster and more accurate results? %he length of the lay depends upon the length of the mar2er as specified #y the CA. department @according to the most

economic consumption of fa#ricB while the lay height depends upon the thic2ness of the fa#ric and the capacity of the machine? %he lengths of the plies #eing spread are 2ept as perfectly as possi#le while superimposing their sides on one another? %he difference #etween the lengths and #readths is 2ept as low as possi#le and generally not more than U inch A;-? %he height of the lay is 2ept #etween 2M inches to 3 inches? An increased height may affect Huality cutting due to unsta#le layers? %he tension at which the fa#ric is laid is also monitored? Positionin& the mar)er

Positioning the mar2er is the process of placing the mar2er plan on the top of the lay and securing it with adhesive to prevent its movement during cutting? 0hen the mar2er is placed it is 2ept e1actly matching the length and width of the top ply of the lay? %he CA. department gives the mar2er+ which has #een prepared on the #asis of siGe set ratio? .etails li2e style no+ name of the part+ siGe num#er and num#er of components is printed on the mar2er as a guide? C'ttin&

6ow the actual process of separating out the garment parts as replicas of the pattern pieces occurs? %he lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight 2nife cutting machines? %he machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the mar2er and the reciprocating #lade severes out the pieces of fa#ric progressively? 6otches are also added? "or smaller components li2e collars+ ri#s etc? that need high accuracy+ #and 2nife-cutting machine is used? It is a non-porta#le cutting device+ which cuts the fa#ric as it is passed across the #lade? %he garments are 2ept aside as and when they are cut? pread Place mar2er Cut pattern pieces 7lo#) #'ttin& FacHuard+ stripes and chec2s cannot #e spread with spreading machine due to reHuirements of matching so they are spread manually? 7ften structures li2e CacHuard and chec2s are spread and cut in single num#er for accuracy? %he plies are spread one at a time+ matching the stripes with those in the previous plies? %hen #loc2s are cut out from this spread for specific num#er of pieces? %he siGe of the #loc2 is dictated #y the CA. room itself+ which sends a mini mar2er for the cutting of the #loc2s from the lay and placement of the patterns on the #loc2s? Accordingly the cut #loc2s are manually mar2ed on top with mar2ing chal2 and using the hard paper

patterns? %he plies in the #loc2 are aligned to match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fa#ric following the mar2ings of the patterns is done? %he cut shapes are again chec2ed for alignment and the stripes superimposed? A final precise cutting occurs to finish the patterns? Cutting of striped fa#ric is a much more time consuming process? %he wastages involved are also more due to cutting in two stages? pread Match Mar2 #loc2s Match Mar2 patterns Cut patterns Match "inal precise shaping of patterns Sortin& and Ti#)etin&

%he pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out siGe wise? All the components of one garment siGe are #rought together? It is very important to ta2e care that pieces cut from two different #olts @#undlesB of fa#ric are not mi1ed up? %his is #ecause within a lot there are #olt-to-#olt variations in the color shade? If a sleeve cut out from one #undle is stitched to the #ody that is cut in another #undle then the shade variations may show up in the final garment and decrease its Huality? %he sorted pieces are now tic2eted? %ic2eting is the process of mar2ing the cut components for shade matching precision+ and seHuence identification? %he wor2er secures one end of the stac2 and puts on the tic2et using tic2et gun as he flips over the cut parts? %he tic2et contains the siGe+ #undle num#er and piece num#er and serves as important means to trac2 the parts of the garment in the assem#ly line from start to the end? C't panel #he#)in&

%he tic2eted panels are now sent to the chec2ing area for inspection of every individual piece for any o#Cectiona#le faults? Panels having faults li2e wrong grain line+ inappropriate siGe+ incorrect shape and any fa#ric defects li2e holes+ cuts+ shade variations etc? that cannot are not within the accepta#le Huality parameters+ are removed from the cut lay? A cutting component chec2ing report is filled for the total Huantity cut+ chec2ed and approved? %he reCected pieces are sent #ac2 and an eHual num#er of fresh panels are separately cut+ replaced in the set and tic2eted with the same num#er as the reCected ones? 7ther mend a#le faults are mar2ed with an alteration stic2er and passed on? %hese will #e spotted out during garment finishing or washing? 7'ndlin&

%he chec2ed components of one style and in one siGe are now clu##ed and #undled using ties? %he siGe of the #undle depends upon the reHuirement of the production plant? /ach #undle will contain pieces of same style and same siGe only? %hese pieces are stored in rac2s made #eneath the cutting ta#le? %he cutting department issues the amount reHuired #y the production department as and when as2ed for? %he cut components may #e issued in installments or all at once as the need of the production department against the Co# order?

E$7OI"E/Y AN" P/INTING

%he cutting department is responsi#le for sending the cut components of a style for em#roidery or printing as stated in the production pac2age? %hey chec2 for any em#roidery or printing program and follow up these departments accordingly? A record of issue+ receipt and pending pieces is maintained to trac2 the entire process? 6ormally #loc2s of panels are sent for em#roidery+ which are re-spread and re-cut after receiving #ac2? %o avoid mi1ing of patterns the panels of same siGe are stitched together temporarily #efore dispatch for em#roidery or printing? F1SING "using is also carried out in the cutting room itself? %he parts to #e fused are separated from the #undle? %he fusing material @li2e interliningB is cut according to the siGe of the components to #e fused? %he components along with the cut fusing

material are 2ept #etween two paper sheets and the pac2 is passed through the fusing machine? 4y means of temperature and pressure fusing ta2es place at a particular speed and for a particular time? %he pac2 comes out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed and re #undled? ST/AIG3T 7OTTO$ 3E$$ING %he cutting room in houses a special machine for #ottom hemming of the front and #ac2 panels in a style that has side vent? %he pieces to #e hemmed are simply loaded on the machine and the hem is automatically folded+ fed+ stitched and unloaded #y the machine itself? ?7?=? is completely computeriGed with most modern features installed in it+ the only limitation #eing its ina#ility to do shaped up hems?

$AC3INE/Y IN T3E C1TTING /OO$ $a#hine $a)e preading 4rio 1** &ectra machine ystems traight 2nives /astman 4and 2nives 0astema ?7?=? machine Pegasus

C1TTING A2E/AGE

B ee also CA. -oom

%he cutting department duties are not limited to mere cutting of the fa#ric? It is responsi#le for 2eeping control over the total consumption @gramsB of fa#ric per garment piece cut? %his consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average? .uring mar2er planning+ the CA. room sends a theoretical consumption of fa#ric as per its mar2er+ which is calculated as following:
C'ttin& a(era&e I Area of one pie#e in the mar)er :#m<; GS$ of the fa ri# *----

0here+
Area of one pie#e I 0en&th of the fa ri# T' e "iameter Total n'm er of pie#es in the mar)er

Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material i?e? fa#ric for each garment? =ence it is very important that it is maintained during the #ul2 cutting also? %he cutting manager finds out his actual cutting average #efore the #ul2 cutting and tries to 2eep it as close as possi#le to the average predicted #y the CA.?

Cutting average Cumps or falls #ecause of lot-to-lot and #olt-to-#olt variations? A#out !O allowance is given to ma2e up with these variations and reCections in the cutting room? 4oth- cutting average Cumps or falls- is a disadvantage? 0hen the average sees a Cump it means that more fa#ric is #eing consumed than estimated i?e? increased cost of production while falling of the average means e1cess fa#ric that has #eing procured will now go as waste? If the cutting manager is una#le to 2eep within the average specified #y the CA.+ the situation is reported the Production Manager for review and solution of the pro#lem?

Cutting pac2age from production manager

AcHuire fa#ric from fa#ric store

Cut samples to chec2 for amendment

-eHuire amendments L

Jes

end to CA. for amendments

6o

Cut for initial siGe set

-eceive amended patterns from CA.

Assem#le and chec2

-eHuire amendments L

Jes

6o

Issue Fo# 7rder 5O/8 F0O5 IN C1TTING "EPA/T$ENT 7'l) #'ttin&

orting , %ic2eting

Cut panel chec2ing

4undling

Issue for stitching

Assembly
Assem#ly line is a place where sewing machinery is arranged to #ring together pieces of fa#ric to stitch into the desired product in the most efficient way? %he production department wor2s hand in hand with the fa#ric store @for issue of fa#ric to the cutting departmentB+ trims store @for issue of trimsB+ cutting @for getting the fa#ric cutB+ merchandising @for the production pac2age and detailsB+ sampling @for production samplesB+ logistics @for allocation and schedulingB+ Huality and all other departments to get the right product made? Coordinating with all these departments is a very responsi#le Co# and the production manager puts in lots of hard wor2 in the study of the style to #e made? 7ASIC 5O/8 F0O5 In 7rient Craft &td there are eight floors producing 2nit garments? A production manager and assistant production managers head each production unit? %here are several production lines in each production unit and each line has its own supervisor? &ines are e1clusively allocated for each style+ no matter how many machines a particular style may need? %he merchandiser after ma2ing a Production pac2age for the style hands it over to Production Planning and Control .epartment @PPCB? %he controllers allocate different styles to different production unit depending upon the order Huantity and delivery date? %hereafter the merchandiser orders the fa#ric and trims reHuired for production in reHuired Huantity? %he machines in the assem#ly line are arranged as per the plan given #y logistics? %he production department also receives the P?P? ample+ the patterns and mar2er planning with the production file from PPC? %he Production Pac2age file contains: Purchase 7rder heet "a#ric 7rder heet .etails heets with 5raded pecs %rim 7rders heet I7M @ %7P; Inspection -eHuired; Averages; Production IssuesB %est -eports 4ills of Material "a#ric .etails Pre Pac2 ummary iGe and Color .etails .escriptive pec heet %rims heet &inear ynchro "low &ine Plan

%hread Consumption Cad Mar2ers

%hen as discussed in the cutting room the orders for cutting are given? 4efore assem#ly of the cut parts+ the production department gets the trims and accessories issued from the trims store and ma2es it availa#le in its su# store? Cutting department issues the cut components to the assem#ly line as and when needed? "irst a pilot run of production is done for ! pieces of each siGe? %hese pieces are chec2ed #y the Huality auditors #oth internal and e1ternal? 7nly when they give a go-ahead signal will the #ul2 production starts? All the instructions regarding the assem#ly of a new style are communicated to the style or line supervisor? %he supervisor further e1plains the whole process of sewing the garment to the sewing operators? pecial instructions are also passed on? At 7C& the production is done on a linear flow #asis @Ralso discussed in &ogisticsB? 7n the first day of production the target is 2ept low as the style is new and the wor2ers have to #e trained while maintaining the Huality standards also? As the time passes+ gradually the targets are increased? In the lineJ %he #undles of fa#ric pieces received are opened out and counted? -ecord of these issued pieces is maintained for the production manager and PPC department? titching is carried out #y sewing together the components of same siGe #earing the same num#er stic2er @tic2eted in the cutting roomB? %hus #efore feeding in the line+ a pre-assem#ling is done #y helpers who match and #ring together ali2e components that will #e sewn? %hen the actual sewing operation #egins? At 7C progressive #undling system is followed in which each operator does only one 2ind of Co#? "or e1ample in the following assem#ly operations for a =anele nec2 t-shirt+ each Co# is done #y a separate operator: -eceive #undles from cutting room 4undle opening and counting of pieces Pre assem#ly-Match left and right sleeves "-76%: Plac2et overedge Attach plac2et to front @&; B Prepare plac2et #one @&; B Plac2et folding @&; B Plac2et @#o1B finishing @&; B Plac2et measurement chec2ing and cut finishing at edges

 Chec2 and measure front 4ACE Moon overedging Attach la#el @&; B Attach moon to #ac2 @&; B Chec2 and measure moon dimensions 4ac2 and front inspection and matching 7veredge shoulder seam %opstitch @shoulder seamB @&; B Collar ma2ing -i# @CollarB attachment @&; B 7verloc2 @CollarB -i# piping ma2ing Piping turning and attachment @&; B iGe la#el attachment %op stitch at collar Chec2ing A leeve sorting w?r?t? the #ody leeve attachment &oc2 stitch on sleeves %op stitching on armhole Arm hole close and side seam ma2ing @&; B &oc2 stitch on vent %ape attachment at vent "inal stitch on vent Prepare cuffs Attach cuffs to sleeve 7;& .ecorative loc2stitch on cuff %op stitch on cuff Attach wash care level %hread trimming "inal chec2ing Prepared pieces sent for #utton holing and #utton attaching in separate line Mar2 #utton hole position Ma2e #utton hole Mar2 #utton position Attach #utton 4artac2ing at vent Chec2 #utton hole+ #utton attach and plac2et finishing %hread cutting "inal chec2ing end to fiinshing line

At the end of the line chec2ing of pieces ta2es place where they chec2 for construction pro#lems and #ro2en seams? Alteration stic2ers are placed on it and sent #ac2 to the line where the pro#lem #elongs? "inally a record a#out the num#er of pieces produced each hour+ num#er of pieces accepted and num#er of pieces sent #ac2 for alteration are recorded? All this information is filed with the logistics department on hourly and daily #asis? %he production people do their #est to meet the daily targets set for them? BEN" 0INE CO1NT $ONITO/ SYSTE$ 0hen the cutting room receives the fa#ric for cutting of a particular style it first divides this cutting program into smaller KCo#sD and then feeds it in the cutting line? /very cutting #undle made #elongs to one specific Co#+ which is mentioned on the stic2er carried #y it? %his is sent to the assem#ly room along with a KCo# cardD wherein all the details a#out the cut fa#ric are mentioned? %his Co# card also carries information a#out how many pieces are cut in total within this Co# and how many are issued to the assem#ly room? Pieces within one Co# will #e sent in form of a num#er of #undles containing different siGes? ay for e1ample in a Co# of 1*** pieces we have !** - &+ 1*** Q M and !** Q pieces which are further present in a num#er of #undles? 4undles are successively issued to the assem#ly room? %wo persons called Vend monitorsW are present each at start and end of assem#ly line? 7ne #undle at a time is fed into the assem#ly line after counting the num#er of pieces in it and ma2ing entry for each piece as V"eedW or V"W in the end line count monitor slip? eparate /&CM slips are made for separate #undles? %hese pieces are converted into the style garment in assem#ly line? 0hen this garment comes out of the assem#ly line+ the second end monitor ma2es an 7E entry in the count monitor @again for each garmentB to ensure that all the pieces which had #een fed in the line have #een successfully converted to garment and are now ready for feeding into the finishing line? In case of any defect+ the garment is resent in the line for mending until it is confirmed as 7E? Pieces that are totally reCected are mar2ed as K-D in the /&CM slip? 5eneral reCections include: -eCection due to fa#ric flaw -eCection due to cutting -eCection due to washing -eCection due to pre-preparation -eCection due to stitching -eCection due to em#roidery;printing

At the end of one Co# completed in the assem#ly line+ all the /&CM slips are assessed for two o#Cectives: -%o verify whether the dispatch #y the cutting room is eHual to the receipt #y the assem#ly room? -%o find out the garment reCection percentage in the assem#ly line?

Any discrepancies found are reported to the production manager and suita#le measures ta2en? /nd line count monitoring system is an efficient way for the production manager to 2eep trac2 of every individual garment running in the assem#ly line which otherwise would #e impossi#le+ specially in cases of very large orders?

Embroidery

/m#roidery is a method of value addition to a garment? It may #e done #y hand or automatically #y computeriGed machinery? 0hile hand em#roidery is a la#or intensive and time consuming+ machine em#roidery gives high production+ consistent Huality and saves on time? o it is specially used in ma2ing logo em#roidery and other intricate wor2? $AC3INE/Y 7rient Craft has its own in-house computeriGed machine em#roidery section for direct and appliHuX type of em#roideries? %he multi-head computeriGed em#roidery machines from 4arudan come in a num#er of configurations ranging from 4 heads+ 1! heads+ 2* heads to 3* heads and can produce a variety of stitches? Machine desc!iption+ Model 6o /m#roidery Area Ma2e 4/6 4-J6-422( $**13**;!** 4A-<.A6 C7 &%.+ FAPA6

%his machine has 3* heads and each head contains ) needles+ which can house ) different threads of different colors? "or each head of these machines there is one #o##in? %he thread used in the #o##in is of color of the #ody fa#ric and normally a cotton or polyester yarn? A #o##in thread-winding machine is used to wind thread on empty #o##ins? A motor runs the machines at 2**-12!* rpm+ the speed normally #eing 2ept around '**-'!* rpm to remove any chances of thread #rea2age+ needle #rea2age or even damage to fa#ric? Actual sewing speed is adCusted for the reHuired em#roidery application i?e? stitch length+ fa#ric used etc? As the machine is computeriGed it wor2s on the design program fed into it through a floppy? %he designing is done on a designing software pac2age called 2in*s 2ilcon? %he manually made design is scanned and then finished and finaliGed using this software? All the information regarding the type of stitch+ num#er of stitches+ stitch density and color com#ination is stored along with the design? %he software automatically generates the program+ which would run the machine in a manner to produce the reHuired design on the fa#ric? %he machines can ma2e a variety of stitches li2e running stitch+ satin stitch+ chain stitch etc? 6eedle used in these machines is of siGe ) and 11? %he em#roidery thread is very lustrous and can #e of polyester+ sil2 and rayon? %he thread comes in form of cones of 1*** meters capacity? %he fa#ric area to #e em#roidered is fit taut in frames of appropriate siGe? %hese frames are positioned on the pantograph of the machine+ which is powered #y an AC servomotor? %he pantograph moves the frames following the design program fed into the machine? %he frames used are made of plastic material specially imported from

Fapan and are round or oval in shape? /ach head em#roiders on one fa#ric area so that the machine can em#roider 3* panels simultaneously when fully loaded? 7ne same needle wor2s for all the heads at a time? "or a change of thread the machine head rotates and #rings the needle containing the desired thread in the effective position? A ma1imum of ) colored threads can #e used in one design? ame style and same color com#o em#roidery is done at all heads simultaneously? ome of the features of the machinery are listed #elow: %op thread sensors plit presser foot for easy threading Individual thread clamping system to hold thread in place to prevent pull outs Automatic thread;needle #rea2 detector <nder head light Automatic color change Automatic thread trimmers 4uilt-in 3?!DD dis2 drive Automatic speed control ensures optimum stitch Huality

%he machine has to #e manually stopped whenever any #o##in e1hausts+ as there is no #o##in empty indicator? If this goes unnoticed the machine would continue to run despite the empty #o##in and the design at that head would remain uncompleted? 7ne advantage of the machine is its individual head controlling? If a case li2e a#ove happens then the em#roidery program at a particular head can #e rewound and e1ecuted until it reaches the state of other heads? %hen em#roidery is recommenced for all the heads together? At the end of the em#roidery the panels are passed through needle detector+ as there is a high ris2 of needle #rea2age in em#roidery machines? 7ne computeriGed em#roidery machine of AMAJA @< AB ma2e is used e1clusively for the sampling departmentDs wor2? It is laser operated and has 1$ needles @1 headB? %he designing is done on AMAJA software? 7ASIC 5O/8F0O5 "irst of all+ the cutting department sends the panels or the parts of the garments on which the em#roidery is to #e done along with the Fo# Card+ sample of em#roidery design and a paper pattern for mar2ing the point of origin on the panels? %he point of origin is the point where the first stitch of design will #e made? %he cutting department sends the panels to the em#roidery section in varied lots according to the order Huantity of a particular style? Mar2ing of point of origin is done on the panels to #e em#roidered with help of the paper patterns and a white mar2er pencil?

6e1t comes the framing of the panels? A temporary placement of nails is done on a wooden ta#le so that the outer plastic frame sets in properly? A piece of interlining material @also called paper foamB is pierced onto the nails+ the panel is then placed matching the nails and the point of origin and finally this assem#ly is secured with the counter inner plastic ring? %he fa#ric panel is placed taut with appropriate tension? uch frames are mounted on pantograph of the em#roidery machine? %he design to #e em#roidered is fed into the CP< of the machine through a floppy and the em#roidery is commenced? After the em#roidered design is completed on the fa#ric panels+ the frames are dismounted from the pantograph and panels ta2en out from the frames? %hen the e1cess interlining paper is torn off and thread cutting is done to finish the piece? Chec2ing follows thread cutting? /m#roidered fa#ric panels are chec2ed for any missed; #ro2en stitches or fa#ric damage during em#roidery? Alteration stic2er is pasted on the fa#ric panels indicating the area of defect if mending is possi#le+ which is usually done manually on separate em#roidery machine? If alteration is not possi#le then the piece is reCected and e1tra fa#ric panels that have #een received earlier are sent for em#roidery of that same design? After chec2ing+ the counting and #undling of em#roidered fa#ric panels is done? 4undling is done according to the num#ers printed on the stic2ers;tic2ets that had #een pasted on the fa#ric panels in the cutting department to facilitate matching of parts of a same garment? %he #undles of em#roidered panels are now dispatched #ac2 to the cutting department along with the Co# card?

-eceive fa#ric panels from cutting department

Mar2ing of point of origin

"raming the panels

Placement of frames on the pantograph

/M4-7I./-J

-emove em#roidered panels from machine

%hread Cutting

Mending if possi#le

Chec2ing of em#roide ry

-eCected if mending not possi#le

Counting and #undling

.ispatch #ac2 to cutting room

5O/8F0O5 IN E$7/OI"E/Y "EPA/T$ENT

Washing Department

5arments pass through various handling processes+ which may render them dirty and stained there#y reducing their aesthetic appeal? %o restore this aesthetic value they are su#Cected to cleansing process li2e washing and dry-cleaning @P/-CB? 5arments are sent for washing #y the production department as per the #uyerDs reHuirement? 6ormally the fa#rics are not as2ed to go for wash #y the #uyer? -ather the fa#rics department may internally send it for a num#er of other reasons: %o control uneven shrin2age %o remove #owing %o lighten color shade %o reduce spirality %o improve hand %o even out color shade variations %o remove printing smell %o e1ecute a dyeing program

7ASIC 5O/8 F0O5 %he washing department receives pieces on a Co# card from the production department? %he Co# card or the wash reHuest form contains information li2e tyle no+ 3uantity of pieces+ Color etc? %ype of wash and washing instructions as given #y the #uyer are also mentioned? %he pieces received are counted and tallied with the Huantity in the Co# card? /ach piece is chec2ed #efore giving appropriate treatment? After ascertaining which process is to #e done+ the sampling is carried out on a few num#ers of garments to see how they are responding to the recipes? 7nly when the sampling is 7E+ the garments are loaded in the machine according to its capacity? 0ashing recipes and process conditions li2e temperature+ air pressure+ p= level etc? are all provided #y the #uyer himself? After processing is done the pieces are again chec2ed for the defects that had to #e removed? potting is carried out for any residual stains? %hen they are sent #ac2 to the respective unit along with the Co# card? -ecords for the performance of the washing and dyeing unit are also maintained on daily and monthly #asis? %his is necessary as washing often forms an important part of the production process? In case washing defects donDt go from the garments after processing then they are sent for P/-C or .ry Cleaning? If the defects still persist then the pieces are reCected? 5AS3ING As mentioned earlier the #uyer sends the recipes for the wash program? =e may order for a normal wash+ enGyme wash or hands feel softener wash? <sually the last two processes are clu##ed? No!mal (ash+ 0etting+ 2*-3* min+ 4*-4! PC =ydro %um#le dry+ 4*-4! min+ $*-'* PC

En,#me (ash+ .esiGing+ 2* min+ !* PC+ .esiGing agent-2?!O 70" -inse @2 cyclesB Maintain p= @4?!-!?!B #y acetic acid /nGyme wash+ 3* min+ !!-$* PC+ enGyme- 3?!O 70" 4leach using hypo if reHuired @to strip the colorB -inse @2 cyclesB 6eutraliGe with hypo crystal @sodium thio sulphateB-1O 70"+ 1* min+ -inse @2 cyclesB oftener @silicon *?'O A cationic 1?*OB+ ! min running+ 1! min dip+ 4!-!*PC =ydro %um#le dry+ $*-'* PC+ 4*-4! min ofteners+ silicons+ enGymes+ anti-stain agents+ neutraliGers+ lu#ricating agents+ deaerating agents+ water softeners etc? are other chemicals used in washing? PE/C P/-C is commonly 2nown as .ry cleaning? /very garment is not su#Cected the P/-C or .ry cleaning process? 7nly those garments+ which have stu##orn stains li2e that of oil and rust+ undergo this process? Mostly white or light colored garments that more vulnera#le to staining are dry-cleaned? P/-C gives them whiteness as well as a shiny appearance also?

%he solvent for stain removal used in P/-C machines is Per Chloro /thane+ which is specially imported from pain for dry cleaning purpose? %he 32 2g capacity machine stores a#out 3** l of P/-C oil in its reservoir? A num#er of other chemicals li2e softener @"ren2osoapB+ optical #rightening agent @4lancol C"+ ! min+ !! NC+ 3-! ml;2gB+ hard stain @GincB removers @Perclean P+ 3* minB+ anti wrin2le agents @Polysal -MB+ hard water stain remover @Poly al &B+ #ac2 stains remover @.imethyl formaldehydeB etc? are also added? %he process is carried out in presence of steam air pressure and at a specific temperature+ normally !*-$* NC? %he duration of the process depends upon the type of garment+ usually #eing a#out 2*-3* minutes? 0hen the machine is started+ 2-3 minutes are given for the oil to #e auto-purified through a distillation tan2? &i2e this+ the oil is made ready to #e reused for a num#er of dry-cleaning cycles? After every process the machine undergoes self-cleaning? A#out 2?*O of P/-C oil is wasted for one full lot in each cycle and the oil is changed when it #ecomes enough dirty or colored? %he P/-C machines follow the process: Auto purification and 7il receiving @2-3 minB 0ashing @2-3 min or 1!-3* min for hard tracingB .rain @2-3 minB =ydro at slow speed @2 minB =ydro at fast speed @2 minB .rying @2* minB Cooling @1! minB <nli2e in washing+ little shrin2age dyed garments ta2es place in P/-C machine? 5arments are received on a Co# card and same process is followed as in washing department? "YEING .yeing may also #e carried out in the washing department? %ypes of dyes that are used include reactive dyes+ pigment dyes+ sulphur dyes and procean dyes? .yeing is carried out in presence of e1hausting agents li2e odium Car#onate till the reHuired depth of color is o#tained?

D#ein* (ith !eactive d#es 5rey fa#ric couring @Caustic soda+ $*-'! NC+ 4! minB 4leaching @4leaching powder;= 272 +2!-3* NC+ 2 hrB -eady for dyeing 0etting @4* NC+ 2*-2! minB 0ashing @normalB .ye solution preparation .ye addition @$*-$! NC+ 1?! hrB Add salt and soda ash .ye till reHuired shade o#tained 0ashing @normalB 6eutraliGe #y acetic acid 0ashing oftener@4!-!* NC+ 2* minB =ydro %um#le dry @$*-'* NC+ 4*-4! minB

D#ein* (ith pi*ment d#es 5rey fa#ric couring @Caustic soda+ $*-'! NC+ 4! minB 4leaching @4leaching powder;= 272 +2!-3* NC+ 2 hrB -eady for dyeing 0etting @4* NC+ 2*-2! minB CationiGation @'* NC+ 3* minB 0ashing /nGyme wash @!*-!! NC+ p= !?!B -aise temperature to $*-'* NC to deactivate enGymes oftener@4!-!* NC+ 2* minB =ydro %um#le dry @$*-'* NC+ 4*-4! minB D#ein* (ith s"lph"! d#es 5rey fa#ric couring @Caustic soda+ $*-'! NC+ 4! minB

4leaching @4leaching powder;= 272 +2!-3* NC+ 2 hrB -eady for dyeing 0etting @4* NC+ 2*-2! minB .ye reduction @'O 6a2 '+ 3?! ! 6a2C73+ 3* NCB .yeing @)* NC+ 1?! hrB 0ashing /nGyme wash @!*-!! NC+ p= !?!B 0ashing oftener@4!-!* NC+ 2* minB =ydro %um#le dry @$*-'* NC+ 4*-4! minB $ET3O"S OF "/YING %he choice for the method of drying depends upon the dimensional sta#ility of the fa#ric as predicted #y the fa#ric sourcing department? Accordingly there can #e the following methods: %<M4&/ .-JI65: -efers to the drying in a machine called the %um#ler? .-IP Q .-JI65: -efers to drying the garments #y directly hanging them after washing i?e? without hydro? "or this 2ind of drying the load is removed from the washer Cust #efore the water #egins to drain for the final spin cycle? %he garments are removed soa2ing wet and drip Q dried?

&I6/ .-JI65: =ere+ the garments after #eing wash undergo hydro and then hung for drying? "&A% .-JI65: -efers to drying the garments #y laying it flat on a surface? It is usually carried out for highly unsta#le fa#ric material? 5AS3ING $AC3INE/Y $AC3INE/Y A2AI0A70E IN 5AS3ING 1NIT $a#hine =oriGontal washing machine =oriGontal washing machine @samplingB =oriGontal washing machine @samplingB "ront loading washing machine "ront loading washing machine =ydro %um#le .ryer %um#le .ryer P/-C Machine P/-C Machine 3ori4ontal 5ashin& $a#hine %his machine is #eing used for washing garments and fa#ric rolls? 6ormal wash+ hard wash+ enGyme wash+ softener wash+ #leaching for dye stripping are done is this machine? .yeing of greige fa#ric also ta2es place? %he smaller capacity horiGontal washing machine is used for sampling department? Front 0oadin& 5ashin& $a#hine %his machine is used for washing garments only? All types of wash li2e normal+ enGyme and softener wash can #e done in this too? "a#ric lots are not washed in this machine #ecause the fa#ric lots get entangled in front loaded machines? Capa#ity 2** 2g 3* 2g 12 2g 1** 2g !* 2g 2! 2g 1** 2g !* 2g 4* 2g 32 2g A'antity 4 1 1 1 1 3 4 1 2 1 $a)e "a#care "a#care "a#care "a#care "a#care "a#care "a#care "a#care "ir#imatic "ir#imatic

3ydro

%he garments are wrung in these machines to remove e1cess water after washing? %he garments are spun in a drum+ which rotates at high speed sHueeGing the water out of them? %his process ta2es a#out 2-3 minutes? T'm le "ryer %his machine evaporates out all the left over water from the garments ma2ing rendering them completely dry? %um#ling is carried out for a#out half an hour+ depending upon the fa#ric Huality and at a temperature of a#out $* PC+ which su#seHuently drops to 3!-4*PC as the steam is e1hausted? PE/C $a#hine9 %his machine is used for dry-cleaning process? It uses steam+ air pressure+ Per chloro /thane solution and a specified temperature for different types of fa#ric garments? All the processes including washing+ drain+ hydro+ drying and cooling occur in the same machine?

Freshtex
7rient Craft &imited has added new state-of-art washing and wet processing plant for fancy washes in colla#oration with the 5erman industry- "reshte1- an international leader in the mar2et? As trainees+ we got a golden chance to visit this plant located in Manesar @=aryanaB+ which is #asically dealing with value additions to denim garments and 2nitwear through processing and finishing methods? %he wet processes that are #eing carried out include: /nGyme 0ash 4io 0ash oftener 0ash %inting .yeing Acid 0ash China 0ash and 4lasting craping or #rushing 0rin2le "ree "inish

7ASIC 5O/8F0O5

%he goods received are first inspected and spotted off any local stains? %hey are then segregated siGe wise and tone wise according to the process that is reHuired and counted? %hese steps prepare the garments for further washing or processing? .ifferent types of washes @li2e normal wash+ hand wash+ softener washB have different methods according to type of fa#ric and the final effect reHuired #y #uyer? /ach process follows different recipes also? An outline of the #asic wor2flow that occurs during the general denim processing is given #elow: 5oods In-house Chec2ing , Inspection potting 5reige fa#ric store egregation @siGe wise+ tone wiseB &ot storage @to prepare the material prior to feed to machineB .esiGing =ot and cold rinse A#rasion @ tone wash+ acid enGyme wash+ neutral enGyme wash+ mechanical or dry a#rasionB =ot and cold rinse Anti-chlor treatment Cold rinse %inting;.yeing oftener treatment =ydro e1tract %um#le dry "inishing

Pac2ing All the machines for washing and dyeing are computeriGed i?e? the program is simply fed in the machineDs computer and thereafter automatic monitoring of temperature+ time+ chemicals+ etc? occurs?
STATE OF A/T $AC3INE/Y FO/ 5AS3ING $a#hine MA-%/8 %-A6 "/-76 4A66J 0A =/"-/ =%/8 I6%/-6A%I76A& 1tility 0ashing .ryer 0ashing , .yeing 0ashing+ .yeing+ 4leach , =ydro Capa#ity 34* Eg 22! Eg 3!* Eg 2!* Eg A'antity ( 12 ( 1*

-eHuirements that are fed in the computerised machines during dyeing include: 0ater %ime %emperature p= Percentage of chemical 3uantity %he plant has its own testing and color-matching la#oratory eHuipped with devices li2e: .ata color machine pectrophotometer Croc2meter /lmendorf tearing strength tester 5 M cutter &ight #o1 After was fastness tester &aundrometer -apid dyeing machine %um#le dryer .yeing oven

%he Huality personnel of the factory+ chec2 every garment piece processed? %hey inspect the goods for:

hade Color =and feel A#rasion Poc2et &a#el staining mell

7lea#hin& In #leaching EMn74 is used during washing to discolor or fade the garment @#y discharging the colorB especially in cases of patchy dyeing? "esi4in& /nGymatic desiGing is carried out at "reshte1-7C&? Amaylase enGyme is used at a temperature of a#out (*C at a p= of $?! for 3* minutes? En4yme !ash Cellulase enGyme chemically reacts with the indigo dyed cotton and a#rades the surface color during piece to piece #eating in the machine? A soft handle and VwornW loo2 is achieved? Cellulase may #e acidic @p= !B or neutral @p= $-(B? Acidic enGymes remove the protruding fi#res also? 4oth are used according to the reHuirement of the #uyer? 4esides enGyme other ingredients added are anti-redepositing agents and crease inhi#itors? %he garments are always washed inside out to prevent pile formation due to ru##ing and uneven finishing due to local chemical deposition? 7io !ash>polish It is an enGyme wash with changed concentration of chemicals+ temperature and steam pressure? It is used to clean the rising fi#res? Stone !ash %his wash uses volcanic roc2 or pumice stones added during the washing of garments to act as an a#radant? A more or less uniform and prominent fading is seen in this wash? %he degree of fading depends upon the garment to stone ratio+ washing time+ siGe of stones+ M&- and load of garments? -otary type of drum is used for a#out 1 to 2 hours? 5enerally 1-2 2g of stone is added for 1 2g of garment? %his process results in a much more grainy effect than in acid wash due to e1cessive fading? It is usually carried out with enGyme wash?

Tintin&

%inting is a part of the dyeing process in which a very low concentration of dye is used to dye the faded portion in some color? %he already dyed color though remains unaffected? It can #e carried out at any stage of processing according to the desired effect? .irect or reactive dyes are generally used? ample garments and processed garments are matched for shade under water? A#id !ash9 Acid wash is done in large rotating wooden Cylinder filled with thermocol #alls that are coated with a solution of =JP7+ SI6C and CA&CI<M? %hese #alls ru##ing against the fa#ric to give it an overall grainy te1ture which is characteristic of denim? iGe of #alls depends upon the degree of reHuired effect , type of fa#ric @"or e1ample for 2nit sweaters small siGed #alls are used while for denim large siGed ones are addedB? "or a mi1ed designer effect+ different siGes of #alls are used together? %he process ta2es a#out 1* to 1! min and is done at 3! to 4* PC? %his process is also 2nown #y names li2e moon wash+ #last wash+ ice wash? 5oods received for acid wash 5reige lot chec2ing @for spots+ cut+ hole etc?B ent to washing department for #iopolish oftener %um#le dry egregation of material according to shade Mar2ing lot siGe Prepare chlorine solution in machine according to the effect reHuired &oading garments in machine ample chec2 If o2 neutraliGation of goods in washing machine If not o2 run for more time and chec2 4iopolish if reHuired oftener

.ry I#e !ash Ice wash is same as acid wash #ut concentration of chemicals is increased in case this case? China !ash :lo#al !ash; %his wash is used to fade out the color randomly in from the garment which is hung over vertical peneHuins or pneumatic #rushing ro#o #aloons? A piece of cloth is dipped in EMn74 and then ru##ed against the garment randomly to ma2e out the reHuired design? EMn74 o1idiGes the dye from the applied area hence fading of color+ ta2es place? Sand lastin& It is #ased on #lasting an a#rasive material in granular or powdered form through a noGGle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to #e treated to give the desired a#raded loo2? Aluminum o1ide grid is used as the a#radant? %he portion to #e faded is first mar2ed and then the pieces are placed on a stand? %hen using high pressure the sand is #lasted at an angle on the desired place? After this the garment is send for chec2ing and then further for washing? and #lasting is usually the first step in the process line? 3and sandin& :s#rappin&; It is done with the help of an a#rader+ which scrapes of the surface indigo dye from the fa#ric? %his process is used to create the different sharp line faded effects on the denim garments using a mould? %he mould made according to design is put inside the garment on an inflated peneHuin @horiGontal or verticalB? %his raises the fa#ric surface such that it ta2es the shape engraved in the mould+ which can now #e precisely ru##ed with aluminum o1ide paper manually? .uring this the fi#er loss of upper surface ta2es place and hence the reHuired worn out design is created? Grinder 5rinder is an innovative techniHue to give the denim a very prominent worn and torn out loo2 #y carefully cutting away either the warp and or the weft threads as per the needs of the design?

5rin)le free 0rin2le free finishes are given mostly to woven trousers and menDs shirts? It is a 2ind of surface alteration+ which lasts for a#out 4-! washes? %reat the fa#ric in chemical @-esinAwetting agentAsoftnerAcatalystB

 .ry =and iron to remove temporary creases @on reverse sideB %op pressing =and iron Curing in oven at 1**-1!* C for '-12 minutes for heat setting "inishing

Finishing
After assem#ly+ the garments now come for finishing- a 2ey stage of the garment manufacturing process? "inishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the Huality standards of the #uyer #efore pac2ing it for shipment? /very assem#ly line has its own finishing line? KChallansD or receipts are given #y the assem#ly line to the finishing department+ which indicate the num#er of pieces fed in the finishing line? Any reCection in the line is shown as #alance on the receipt? %he wor2 status of the finishing department is recorded on hourly and daily #asis? %hese reports are sent to the production manager and are necessary to 2eep a trac2 of the garments in the production line? &i2e for the assem#ly+ deadlines are given to finishing department also? 7ASIC 5O/8F0O5 0ashing+ P/-C According to the #uyerDs demand+ or as per garment reHuirement and #ehavior+ they may #e sent for washing or P/-C? %he #uyer specifies the recipes and method to #e employed? %he pieces are counted and sent with the wash or the P/-C program?

%hread trimming

Pieces received from the washing department or from the assem#ly line now come for thread trimming? =ere trails of threads are cut off from the seams+ #uttons etc? manually with help of trimming scissors? potting .uring the assem#ly the garment may acHuire stains and other o#Cectiona#le mar2s+ which must #e removed? %his is done either in the washing department or they are locally Vspotted offW? 7#Cectiona#le stains li2e that of chal2 are spotted #y means of spotting guns containing mild solvent @e?g? water+ #enGene etc?B? =arder and stu##orn stains @li2e that of to#acco+ rust+ dye+ 2erosene etc?B are sent to the spotting room where they are cleansed under the spotting machine in a protective environment? If the spots still donDt go then they are sent for Perc or dry cleaning? 5eneral chec2ing 6ow the garment comes for a general chec2ing relating to overall stitching? =ere+ first the general visual appearance is studied which include shape of the garment+ #alancing of the parts+ color variation etc? %hen any seaming defects are recogniGed for e1ample unmade seams+ missed stitches etc? As per reHuirement the chec2ed pieces are sent for mending to assem#ly line? %he production manager gives a %7P sample to the chec2ers as a visual aid? "inal thread cutting Minute threads li2e those of la#els+ #artac2 etc? are trimmed off to give the neat loo2? %hreads loosely stic2ing to the garment are also shed off #oth in and out #y Cer2ing the garment #efore it is goes for pressing? Pressing Pressing in general is shaping the assem#led material with pressure+ with;without heat and;or moisture+ for further processing? In case of 2nits+ this is important #ut not as significant as in case of wovens #ecause of their property of e1cellent recovery and fit? %hen the ironing of the garment ta2es place on the steam-#oards with steam ironing machine? %he patterns of various siGes of components are mar2ed on the pressing ta#le? %he component is placed on these pressing patterns of the siGe of the garment and then pressed? %his is done so that if there are any measurement discrepancies+ they can #e set or removed #y stretching or contracting while steam pressing the 2nits? %his ensures one final and eHual loo2 within one siGe of a garment? Closing of #uttons is also done here at the pressing ta#le itself? Measurement and final chec2ing %his is the final and most stringent chec2ing done for garment measurements+ appearance+ la#els+ trims etc? to study the final loo2 and shape of the product

produced? Measurements are done according to the spec sheets and recordings are made for any deviations;variations in measurement charts? %his gives an overall idea a#out the Huality of the garments #eing produced? Any unaccepta#le discrepancy will cause the garment to #e sent #ac2 for mending or reCected if not possi#le to mend? It is always carried after pressing in 2nits? %he garments are passed on only if every piece conforms to the #uyersD specified standards? "inally+ all the good garments are counted+ recorded and sent to the pac2ing ta#les?
-eceive PP sample for reference

-eceive garments from assem#ly line

Counting and recording

-eHuired P/-C;0ash L
No

Yes

end P/-C;0ash

for

%hread cutting

Counting and recording

potting

5eneral chec2ing

"inal thread cutting and shedding

Packing
Pressing "inal chec2ing

Pac2ing is the last stage where the finished garments are primed+ organiGed+ geared up for the shipment to the #uyer? %he entire process from the way a garment will #e folded to the final la#eling of the cartons is dictated #y the #uyerDs specifications?
Counting and sent to pac2ing ta#le

5O/8F0O5 IN FINIS3ING 0INE

4uyers demand this so as to achieve consistency in the pac2ages+ and also to provide a visual value to the product at retail level within their vendor #ase? %hese instructions are standardiGed for a particular type of garment and sent to the merchandiser in form of a pac2ing manual? %he merchandiser forwards it to the pac2ing in-charge along with a %7P @%op 7f ProductionB sample that is pac2ed with the pac2ing dimensions approved #y the #uyer? %his is 2ept as a visual reference for the pac2ers? 7ASIC 5O/8F0O5 As the garments are received from the finishing they are first sent to the pac2ing ta#le for counting? %his counting is done to maintain a record of how much goods have #een received in the pac2ing department and how much already pac2ed? Although pac2ing and shipment are not a part of the production department yet they affect the Huality of the goods to a considera#le e1tent? Pac2ing is done in two stages: Poly #ag pac2ing Carton pac2ing Poly a& pa#)in& %a**in* "irstly the garment is tagged with its price tag or license hangtags etc? as specified #y the #uyer with the help of tagging gun? %he pac2er ta2es reference of the approved %7P sample for the placement and positioning of these tags? %ags+ &a#els+ tic2ets etc? and other pac2ing material are sent #y the purchase department of the trim store? Fust li2e any other trim+ these materials are also sought for #uyerDs approval #y the merchandiser? Foldin* %hen comes the folding of the garment? "olding is of many types for e1ample: .ead man "lat =anger Careful procedure is followed in folding of the garments also? %he method and the dimensions of the final folded garment pac2age is also standardiGed? "or e1ample %ommy =ilfiger defines three types of pac2ages for its products: Folded lat pac' for garments li2e 2nits+ sweaters+ woven shirts+ sweatshirts+ overalls;short alls+ denim #ottom;pants+ t-shirts+ 2nit shorts and s2irts+ 2nit #ottoms+ Cumpers+ crop #ottoms?

.an*e! lat pac' for garments li2e woven shirts+ outerwear+ #ottoms+ woven dresses+ woven Cac2ets+ woven vest+ suits+ leather and suede shirts+ woven #ottoms+ non-denim #ottoms+ Ceans+ Cac2et;vests? 0a**ed p!e/pac' for caps and accessories?

Pol# ba* pac'in* %he folded garments are carefully loaded in envelope li2e poly-#ags? Poly #ag siGe should always #e 1W larger than fold specification for #est pac2age results? %hese #ags had #een ordered #y the purchase department and stored in trims store? %he person pac2ing the garment into the poly-#ag chec2s the siGe of the garment and accordingly places a temporary siGe la#el on the poly-#ag? %his is removed at a later stage? It serves the purpose that during final siGe la#eling of the pac2ets+ there is no mismatch #ecause at that time the garment will not #e opened out to chec2 which siGe it is? %he siGe stic2er must go with the correct siGe otherwise if discovered #y the 3C at the final audit stage+ the whole shipment may #e cancelled? =ence utmost care is ta2en? Carton pa#)in& )o!tin* %he pac2ed garments are now sent to the long pac2ing counters for siGe sorting? =ere the pac2ets are segregated on the #asis of their siGes as printed on the poly #ag @temporary siGe stic2ersB? Pac2aging order may #e of one of the two types- solid or pre-pa#)in&. In 7&I. PACEI65 only one particular siGe of garments go into the cartons whereas in the P-/-PACEI65 order #listers of different siGes are madeI for e1ample the #uyer may want 2- + 3-M+ 1-& siGes to #e pre pac2ed i?e? these siGes in respective num#ers are counted+ siGe mar2ed+ clu##ed and pac2ed again in another poly #ag? %he siGe ratios for pac2ing are specified #y the #uyer in the P7 @Purchase 7rderB? Final Co"ntin* and pac'in* %he final pac2ages @either solid or pre-pac2edB are now counted? %he temporary stic2ers are replaced with the ones approved #y the #uyer? In 7C& Kneedle policyD is adopted for product safety? %he finished and pac2ed goods are passed through the needle detection machine to ensure the garment is free from any #ro2en needle parts #efore they pac2ed in the cartons? %hen the <PC tic2et Q <niHue Price Code %ic2et is pasted on the poly #ag and finally the pac2ed pieces are put into the carton of specified siGe according to the siGe ratio and color specified #y the #uyer? %he num#er of pieces that shall go in a carton is decided #y the ma1imum allowed weight of the carton #y the #uyer? Accordingly the pac2ing in charge shall plan the whole distri#ution of garments in the cartons? %his distri#ution is shown in form of a pac2ing list+ which specifies what is pac2ed in what ratio and in what color and what Huantity?

%he carton is finally sealed with adhesive tapes and mar2ed with address of the #uyer+ carton num#er+ style num#er and other details li2e: upplier Contract num#er Contents description iGes <nits Measurement of #o1 5ross weight 6et weight tyle num#er Colour Country of origin Manual mar2ing is done on cartons for the num#er of units+ weight etc? Pa#)in& norms Pac2ages are sent under licensing rules for shipment? %hese rules are also specified #y the individual #uyer and are universal for their respective orders? ome of such norms include: All garments pac2ed in individual poly #ags? Poly #ag stic2ers on poly #ags+ which may #e printed #y the factory? 7rder must #e completed @pac2ed+ ready for shipmentB prior to #ul2 orders? 7rder must #e inspected and audited #y the factory 1**O? 7rder must #e of first Huality+ no repair or un-graded garments should #e in license shipments? 7rders must #e shipped 1**O complete otherwise notified? etc?

A'ditin& and AA %he Huality considerations at the pac2ing stage are very strict and hence the final goods are inspected at 3 audit stages @discussed in 3AB? %he 3Cs from the #uyer as well as the factory randomly pic2 up cartons from the pac2ed goods for inspection? %hey chec2 whether the goods are meeting the Huality level of the #uyer and whether they are #eing pac2ed according to the details as mentioned in the pac2ing

list? .iscrepancies li2e wrong siGe ratio+ wrong color+ wrong pac2ing+ missing shipping mar2s+ faulty pac2ing material used and any other such carelessness can lead to reCection of the shipment? %he pac2ed audited goods are now ready to #e passed through the shipment procedures?

-eceive pac2ing manual and approved %7P form merchant

iGe la#eling of poly #ags

Pass through needle detector machine

-eceive garments from finishing , count

Carton pac2ing and la#eling %agging of the garments A'dit #he#)in&Inspection #y 3C

"olding

Approach shipping

Poly #ag pac2ing

agency for reservation of shipping space

%emporary siGe la#eling

S3IP$ENT

orting siGe-wise

5O/8F0O5 IN PAC8ING "EPA/T$ENT

6o

7rder for prepac2ingL

Je s

orting for pre-pac2

Counting

Poly #ag pre pac2ing

Counting

Quality Assurance
%oday+ customers all over the world have #ecome so demanding that Huality is no longer a competitive advantage+ #ut is #ecoming a sheer necessity to survive in the mar2et place? %hus Huality has to #e designed and #uilt into products and not Cust KinspectedD and controlled? /Hually important is effective Huality management in form Huality control at every step i?e? Huality assurance in totality? 3uality may mean different things to different people? K 3"alit# is somethin* I 'no( (hen I see itD? If we as2 someone what Huality is+ we may get altogether different views li2eY %he #est the money can #uy Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications Craftsmanship %he degree of e1cellence that an item possesses 6o more than 1O defective lot

3uality can also mean meeting or e1ceeding customer e1pectations all the time? 5enerally the more educated and sophisticated the customer+ the more specific are the e1pectations of the Huality and more precise the a#ility of customers to e1plore these e1pectations? I 7 defines Huality as Vthe totality of features and characteristics of a product or service that are #orne on its a#ility to satisfy stated or implied needsW? 3uality is also a reflection of the customersD opinion of the value they see in the product compared to that of the competitorDs? In other words the Huality is whatever the customer says it is? At Modelama Huality initiatives have #een ta2en at every stage of garment manufacturing? /ach department in the factory is su#Cect to Huality norms set #y the #uyers or #y the company itself? %he A'ality #ontrol e#helons of the Huality assurance department include 3uality Assurance Manager+ Assistant 3uality Assurance Manager+ 3uality Auditors+ supervisors+ operators and technicians for #oth production and sampling departments? %his personnel is well trained to detect minute differences Huic2ly and recogniGe any deviation in the standards of the garment #eing produced from that desired to ensure nothing #ad goes out of the factory? 5reater the speed of productivity+ greater is the need for tighter Huality control specifications+ procedures and supervision?

A'ality Control at ra! material sta&e

3uality control of incoming raw material #egins as soon the material is in housed? %he fa#ric goods received are: 0eighed Measured for length and width Inspected for construction defects li2e slu#s+ #owing+ holes etc? @discussed in fa#ric storeB Inspected for color and shade defects li2e side selvedge+ strea2s etc? @discussed in fa#ric storeB

%he discrepancies are reported and the goods are reCected if they fall outside the tolerance limits? "a#ric here is inspected on #asis of 4-point A3& system? %he trims store also physically chec2s the trims for Huality and gets approval from the #uyer? In no case unaccepta#le fa#ric must reach the cutting ta#le? If a #undle or a lot has to #e reCected on the cutting ta#le then it means that the fa#ric store Huality controls are not operating well? In order to have a tight Huality control of the color+ color shade cards @also called la# dipsB are prepared specially for the dyed materials? %hese are swatches of fa#rics showing the samples+ which set the tolerance limits for the color regarding shade value? "or each color there are three samples: the target shade and the lightest and dar2est variations accepta#le? Perfect color matching is done using a spectrophotometer? &a# testing is another important tool of Huality control at 7C&? %his is used to analyGe the fa#ric prior to purchase as well as to control the Huality in lot-#y-lot purchases? %he goods are tested for fi#re content+ yarn siGe @countB+ finishes+ shrin2age+ color fastness+ dimensional sta#ility @spirality+ shrin2ageB+ a#rasion etc? uch evaluations guide the further cutting+ sewing+ pressing and finishing operations? %hese tests are the responsi#ility of the la# @Internal la# or 6ominated la#B? 4esides this the Huality assurance department also does periodic vendor performance analysis #ased on Huality and on-time performance? A'ality Control at order pro#essin& sta&e :On line #he#)in&; %he role of Huality assurance department #egins once the pilot run is made on the production floor? %he production pac2age and the product to #e developed are studied and a meeting ta2es place #etween the #uyerDs 3C+ factoryDs 3C and the production manager to outline the Huality specifications? Processing Huality control specifications are given for every process such as spreading+ cutting+ notching+ mar2ing+ tic2eting+ #undling+ sewing+ pressing+ finishing

etc? used in ma2ing the garment? A3& 2?! system @1?! A3& for designer oriented garmentsB is followed throughout till the order is dispatched? preading specifications contain directions for spreading+ adeHuate tension+ superimposed edges and Huality specifications for mar2ers? Cutting Huality control specifications list the type of machinery to #e used+ its specifications+ lay height+ clean and neat cutting+ periodic inspection of the machinery etc? 3uality control specifications for tic2eting and #undling specifies placement of tic2ets+ instructions on the tic2et+ safe method for #undling etc? In stitching placement of seams+ type and siGe+ correct needles and attachments+ attachment of trims and other such details have to specified precisely in physical measurements with appropriate tolerances? 3uality control in pressing calls for operating conditions of the machinery and handling instructions?

imilarly stringent instructions are given to other operations as well? /ffective Huality control is achieved through alert personnel+ mechanics and floor supervisors? 3uality auditors are dedicated to the sampling department also #ecause it is this department+ which acts as a representative to the #uyer for production? 7n the floor+ the Huality auditors study the production pac2age and the Pre-production sample provided to them #y the merchandiser? %he production pac2age and the PP sample reflect the Huality control specifications as mentioned a#ove and guide the entire processing+ finishing and pac2ing operations? Accordingly the machines are set+ the la#or trained and operations e1ecuted? &ac2 of Huality performance can #e either from man or from machine? 3uality inspectors on the floor are responsi#le for spot-chec2ing operators @visual auditB to ensure that they are performing efficiently and correctly and also to decide if they need any training+ counseling or assistance? /mphasis on achieving the motto Kfirst time rightD is adopted? 3uality chec2ers are also responsi#le to see that their machines are getting proper preventive maintenance from the operators and the mechanics? As an aid to the operators+ the Huality department gets the moc2s made for different components li2e nec2+ collar+ armhole and #ottom and stic2 it on hanging card #oards so that they can #e used as a reference in the assem#ly line? /very operation e1ecuted is scrutiniGed at Huality chec2points within the line? Any discrepancy calls for immediate operator notification and su#seHuent correction? End line #he#)in& and A'ality Control of finished &oods 7nce all the operations are done on a garment+ it is su#Cected to end line chec2ing where all the components and operations are chec2ed minutely for any discrepancies in stitching and finishing?

%he Huality inspectors 2now which Huality control repair action is to #e ta2en for the operation they inspect and at what rate so as to 2eep the production also in consistent flow? %hey can order for -eplacement of a defective or damaged fa#ric section -edoing an operation or Mending an operation

0hatever the case may #e the final results given #y the Huality controller should #e: A#t'al res'lts I Standard res'lts "inal inspection of a garment always includes a chec2 on the siGe and fit of the garment first? %here is nothing as disastrous as sending out a garment that is siGed incorrectly+ does not fit+ or is a misfit? An incorrectly siGed garment is one+ which is proportioned correctly #ut is la#eled with wrong siGe? A misfit is proportioned incorrectly? <se of templates and siGe guidelines mar2ed on the inspection ta#le help in maintaining Huality control of siGe and fit? %he P?P? sample acts as a model garment provided at the wor2ta#le for illustration of all the details that are to #e chec2ed out? A Huality control inspection chart for the final garment lists out areas to #e inspected and limits of accepta#le Huality standards @tolerancesB? All the goods that are inspected are classified into first Huality+ second Huality and KirregularD Huality depending upon the Huality defects in them? In general a garment is divided into three Gones Q A ,one+ 0 ,one and C ,one? A Gone is the most prominent and visi#le part of the garment so even the minutest of defects are not accepted in this Gone? 4 Gone is less visi#le and the C Gone the least o#served? o the defects on this Gone can #e approved? %he amount of reCects in the final inspection would measure the efficiency of the Huality control within the production line+ and at the receiving stage? %he more the reCects in final inspection+ the poorer is the in-line and;or raw material inspection? A'ality Control at pa#)in& sta&e %he pac2ed goods are also audited? %he Huality considerations are most strict here in the terms that any 1 defect found in the pac2ed goods would lead to the rescreening of the entire consignment? %he Huality auditors are also very stringent a#out whether the pac2ing is #eing done as per the demands of the #uyers? /very #uyer provides its pac2ing manual in which all the pac2ing specifications are laid @li2e garment pac2ing procedures+ stic2ering on poly #ags+ carton dimensions+ instructions on carton+ num#er of pieces etc?B?

In Modelama Kneedle policyD is adopted for product safety? 6o sewing machine operator is issued a new needle unless he gives all the parts of the #ro2en needle? %he finished goods are passed through the needle detection machine to ensure that the garment is free from any #ro2en needle parts?

Types of A'dits and /eports ein& maintained9 Initial /eport9 %his is also called Pilot run report? Pilot run is usually done for 1** Q 1!* pieces? %he construction+ measurements and other specifications mentioned in the production pac2age are chec2ed in the pieces produced and visual auditing ta2es place? %he #ul2 production #egins only when the #uyerDs 3C gives an approval to this report? Internal Huality auditors and #uyerDs approved Huality auditors do this initial chec2ing? Component /eport9 %his report is made the very first day when the very first piece is manufactured? It contains information li2e construction details+ placement of la#els+ em#roidery+ printing+ patches+ #uttons and all the other em#ellishments? %his report helps in chec2ing when the #ul2 production starts? In F 0ine A'dit9 %his audit or chec2ing of pieces ta2es place after 1*O of order Huantity has #een pac2ed? %he auditing is done on A3& 2?! level? %he Huality auditors according to the A3& level chart ta2e out num#er of pieces for the style+ which have #een pac2ed? %hen these pieces are chec2ed for all the measurements+ stitching and construction discrepancies? %hey mar2 the defects and 2eep them aside? %he num#er of defective pieces are counted and if it doesnDt meet the acceptance level specified in the chart then the whole pac2ed shipment has to #e opened and all the pieces are chec2ed for defects and sent for mending? "or e1ample+ if an auditor has a sample siGe of 2* pieces and he finds only one piece+ which is defective then he can pass the shipment #ut if there are more than one pieces then the whole shipment has to #e re-screened? %his audit is done #oth internally and e1ternally and reHuisite reports maintained? $id 0ine A'dit9 %his audit or chec2ing of pieces ta2es place after 4!O Q !*O of order Huantity has #een pac2ed? %he auditing is also done on A3& 2?! level in the same manner as the in line audit? %he only difference lies in the sample siGe+ which is greater here? Final A'dit9 %his audit or chec2ing of pieces ta2es place after (*O or more of order Huantity has #een pac2ed? Pa#)in& A'dit9 A pac2ing list is prepared #y the production department relating to each style that is #eing produced+ finished and pac2ed? %he pac2ing list states the Huantity pac2ed in each carton+ the color+ the siGe ratio etc? %he Huality auditors study this and the pac2ing specifications of the #uyers? .iscrepancies li2e wrong

siGe ratio+ wrong color+ wrong pac2ing+ missing shipping mar2s+ faulty pac2ing material used+ defective poly #ag and any other can lead to the reCection of the shipment? o as mentioned earlier also+ the pac2ing audit is most strict of all audits? An efficient Hulaity control specialist is thus a person who chec2s assem#ly operations+ identifies pro#lems+ and wor2 with the production staff and management to correct pro#lems and give only the #est product to its #uyer?

AA0 Chart on <., 0e(el &ot iGe *Q( ) Q 1! 1$ Q 2! 2$ Q !* !1 Q )* )1 Q !* 1!1 Q 2(* 2(1 Q !** !*1 Q 12** 12*1 Q 32** 32*1 Q 1*+*** 1*+*** and a#ove ample siGe 2 3 ! ( 13 2* 32 !* (* 12! 2** 31! Accepted 1 2 3 ! ' 1* 14 -eCected 1 1 1 2 3 4 $ ( 11 1!