1984.24.

1 Wedding Dress, 1916 Ivory silk crepe, off-white fine linen, off-white cotton lace, ivory silk cord, glass seed beads The linen lining of the bodice is made separately, with a crepe facing around the armscye (indicated with a dotted line) and the crepe sleeve sewn into it. It fastens with hooks on the right side and thread eyes on the left. The sleeve seam is sewn from Y to Z, and the opening in the head of the sleeve is closed by overlapping the corners slightly. The opening along the top of the arm is decorated with white glass beads and ivory chiffon rosebuds as pictured. This lining is covered with a crepe bodice, pleated slightly at the waistline in back where indicated and gathered in front from the mark to the center. This crepe layer is finished at the neckline and armscye with small picots, and fastens with a single snap at center front. A 9" wide panel of lace is then draped over each shoulder, gathered in front from B to C (marked on lining pieces) and sewn to the front opening of the crepe layer, and overlapping for 1.5" on either side of center back. The inner skirt is formed of three fitted linen lining pieces, darted and pleated slightly to fit waist, to which lower panels of crepe are gathered. The crepe panels have a 2.75" hem. The center front lining seam is open to the mark, and closes with hooks and thread eyes. Lining and crepe are covered at center front with a rectangular lace panel, gathered at the top and sewn down with running stitches on the dashed line. The top edge of this skirt is turned under, and it is sewn on top of the bodice over the dashed line. The crepe overskirt is pleated from A to A to the left across the back, with A matching to A on the bodice lining, and the selvedge is sewn on the same line as the inner skirt. On each side, D is brought to A to form a large flap on the outside, the top edge of which is tacked at intervals. The right side of the skirt has a 4" hem; the left, 1.5"; the lower edge is self-piped with a " cord. There is also a topstitched pleat on the left side where indicated.There is a snap at E on the right side, corresponding to a snap at E on the left side of the crepe bodice; another snap at K meets a snap at K on the other side of the overskirt. A snap at F on the right side of the overskirt, which is sewn through the indicated pleat, meets snap F on the right side of the inner skirt, and snap J on the left side of the overskirt meets snap J on the left side of the inner skirt. The small rectangular bias-cut pieces are pleated to be 2" high, then tacked to the bodice over the skirt on the top and side edges, matching corners H and G to points H and G on lining. The crepe overbodice is fully made, with " hems on all free edges, then attached to the bodice behind the shoulders. The left front shoulder and side edges snap over the backs to fasten. The neckline is beaded in the same manner as the sleeve edges, with a larger beaded design below; the slits are held together with a single cord sewn down on the wrong side so that it creates a ladder effect, and beads are applied in a flower shape at each end of the ladder "rungs".