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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY

FORM U LATIO NS
Second Edition
Volume 5
by
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS
Woatwood. Now JHIOY, U.S.A.
Copyright 63 1996 by hest W. Flick
No part of this book may be reproduced a utilized in
any form a by any means, electronic a mechmicpl,
including photocopying, recording a by any infoma-
tion storage and retrieval system, without pcnnisSion
in writing fiwnthe Publisher.
Libnry of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099
Printed in the United States
ISBN 0-8155-1395-X
Published in the United States of America by
Noyes Publications
369 FzirView Avenue
Westwood, New J ersey 07675
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
(Revised for vol. 5)
Flick, Ernest W.
Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.
1. Cosmetics. 2 Toilet preparations.
I. Title.
TP983.M5 1989 668l.55 89-39099
ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1)
ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2)
ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3)
ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)
ISBN 0-8155-1395-X (v. 5)
To
Suzanne
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1
Antiperspirant Cream ................................... 2
Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. 2
Antiperspirant Cream O N ............................... 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Perfumed Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form ................ 3
Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. 4
Antiperspirant Stick .................................... 4
Clear Antiperspirant Stick ................................ 5
Deodorant Emulsion O N for Roll-On ....................... 6
Antiperspirant Emulsion O N . Liquid (Roll-On) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Antiperspirant Emulsion O N (Roll-On) ..................... 6
Deodorant Lotion Clear (Roll-On) .......................... 7
Deodorant Antiperspirant Lotion. Clear (Roll-On) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Antiperspirant Lotion ................................... 7
Antiperspirant Lotion (Without Alcohol) ...................... 7
Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................... 8
Antiperspirant Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................ 8
Deodorant. Antiperspirant Spray. Aerosol-Packed
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Deodorant Stick ....................................... 9
Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol ........................... 9
Deodorant Stick ...................................... 10
Deodorant Stick Formulation ............................. 11
Antiperspirant Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form
Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. 5
SECTION II: BABY PRODUCTS ........................... 12
Baby Cream Soft ..................................... 13
Baby Shampoo ....................................... 15
Baby Bath .......................................... 15
Baby Cream ......................................... 14
Baby Lotion ......................................... 14
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Clear. Liquid
. . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Liquid
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
ix
x Contents and Subject Index
Care Bath for Babies and Children ......................... 16
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Care Bath for Babies and Children. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Cream for Babies and Children O W ....................... 18
Cream for Babies and Children. Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Cream for Babies and Children W/O ....................... 19
Vulnerary Cream for Children W/O ........................ 19
Baby Cream O W ..................................... 19
Emulsion for Babies and Children O N ..................... 20
Oil for Babies and Children .............................. 20
Vulnerary Stick for Babies and Children ..................... 20
Shampoo for Babies and Children ......................... 21
Shampoo for Children. with Ampholyte. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Shampoo for Babies and Children. Pearly .................... 21
Shampoo for Babies and Children. Clear .................... 22
Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Vitamin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Vitamin E . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Baby Shampoo. Pearly ................................. 22
Shampoo for Babies and Children. Pearly .................... 23
Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Ampholyte. Pearly . . . . . . . 23
Shampoo for Babies and Children. Clear .................... 23
SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Bath Oil Emulsion .................................... 25
Bath Milk Emulsion ................................... 25
Bath Oil ............................................ 25
Bath Oil. Liquid ...................................... 26
Bath Oil. Spreading .................................... 26
Bubble-Bath ........................................ 27
Bubble-Bath ........................................ 28
Special Bath ......................................... 28
Bubble-Bath. Clear .................................... 29
Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid with Protein ..................... 29
Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 29
Bubble Bath. Clear. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Bubble Bath. Clear. with Ethereal Oil ....................... 30
Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 31
Vitamin Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid ........................ 31
Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 32
Algae Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid ......................... 32
Bubble Bath ......................................... 32
Bubble Bath. Clear. in Gel Form .......................... 33
Bubble Bath. Opaque. in Gel Form ........................ 33
Bubble Bath. Cloudy. Liquid ............................. 33
Contents and Subject Index xi
Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children .................... 34
Bath Oil for Babies and Children .......................... 34
Powder for Babies and Children ........................... 34
Bubble Bath. Pearly Liquid .............................. 35
Bubble Bath with Whey Additive. Pearly .................... 35
Bubble Bath in Powder Form ............................. 36
Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid . . . . . 36
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion ............................. 37
Facial Moisturizing Lotion ............................... 37
Bubble Bath Oil. Clear. Liquid ........................... 38
Bubble Bath Oil. Anhydrous. Clear. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Bubble Bath Oil. Anhydrous. Clear ........................ 38
Rosemary Oil Bubble Bath .............................. 38
Care-Shower-Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Clear Foam Bath with Gluadin AGP ....................... 40
Stimulating. Clear Foam Bath with Balm Mint Extract . . . . . . . . . . 40
Bubble Bath with Plantaren 2000 and Essential Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Cream Bubble Bath .................................... 41
Cream Bubble Bath for Tube Filling ....................... 41
Floating Bath Oil ..................................... 42
Blooming Bath Oil with Shebu ........................... 42
Shebu Floating Bath Oil ................................ 42
Gel After Bath Freshener ................................ 43
After Bath Splash ..................................... 43
Hand and Bath Gel .................................... 44
Dispersible Bath Oil ................................... 44
Liquid Bubble Bath .................................... 45
Shebu Bubble Bath Powder .............................. 45
Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 46
Aloe Vera Herbal Shower Gel ............................ 46
Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 47
Pearlescent ShoGer Bath with Refattener .................... 47
Mild Pearlescent Cleansing Lotion ......................... 47
Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 48
Bubble Bath ......................................... 48
Protein and Honey Skin Bath ............................. 49
Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Shebu After Bath Splash ................................ 50
Shebu After Bath Lotion ................................ 50
Shower-Bath ........................................ 51
Fitness-Shower-Bath .................................. 54
Shower-Bath 2 in 1 ................................... 55
Shower Bath. Clear .................................... 56
Shower Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 56
xii Contents and Subject Index
Shower Bath. Clear .................................... 57
Shower Bath. Clear. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Shower Bath. Clear Refatting ............................. 58
Sport Shower Bath Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Protqin Shower Bath ................................... 58
Shower Bath in Aerosol Form ............................ 58
Shower Bath Gel ..................................... 59
ShowerBath Gel .. .................................... 59
Silky Feel Shower Gel ................................. 60
Shower Bath. Pearly. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Shower Bath. Pearly ................................... 62
Shower Bath. Pearly for Tube Filling ....................... 62
Shower Bath. Pearly. Refatting ........................... 63
Shower Bath. Pearly ................................... 63
Shower Bath. Pearly. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Shower Bath & Emulsion "Two in One" ..................... 65
Pearly Sheen Shower Bath Two-in-One ..................... 65
Pearlescent Foam Bath with Refattener ...................... 65
Shower Bath 2411-1. Shower & Cream ..................... 66
Shower Bath & Emulsion Two-in-One ..................... 66
Shower Gel ......................................... 67
Shower Gel & Body Lotion .............................. 68
Pearlescent Foam Bath ................................. 68
Foam Bath Concentrate ................................. 68
Skin Conditioning Shower Gelee .......................... 69
Shebu Shower Gelee ................................... 69
Vitamin Bath Oil ..................................... 70
Herbal Bath Oil ...................................... 70
Bath Oil ............................................ 70
Lavender Bath Oil .................................... 70
Lemon Balm Bath Oil .................................. 70
SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS .............................. 71
Ajinomoto Moisturizing Foundation with Ajidew. Eldew. Marine-
Dew and Amihope ................................. 72
Alcohol-Free Cologne ................................. 73
All-Over AHA Moisturizer .............................. 75
Cheek Rouge ........................................ 77
Cleansing Emulsion O W Liquid .......................... 78
Cleansing Emulsion ................................... 78
Compact Powder ...................................... 79
Nail Varnish Remover .................................. 79
Conditioning Skin Moisturizer ............................ 80
Eye Shadow ......................................... 77
Contents and Subject Index xiii
Cover Cream ........................................ 81
Foundation Cream ..................................... 81
Cream Eye Shadow .................................... 82
Cream Foundation ..................................... 83
Cream Lotion O N with Ginseng Root Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Skin Emulsion O W Low Viscous with Avocado Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Moisturizing Emulsion O W ............................. 84
Creamy Eye Shadow ................................... 85
Creamy Lotion Moisturizer
. . . .. .......................... 86
Moisture Balm ....................................... 86
Creamy Mascara ...................................... 87
Mascara ............................................ 87
Eyeliner ............................................ 89
Depilatory Cream O N ................................. 88
Depilatory Emulsion ON . High Viscous .................... 88
Make-up Stick ....................................... 89
Powder Stick ........................................ 89
Cover-up Stick ....................................... 89
Eye Make-up Remover, Liquid ........................... 90
Eye Make-up Remover in Gel Form
....................... 90
Make-up Remover, Surfactant Based ....................... 90
Make-up Remover, Anhydrous ........................... 90
Eye Make-up Removing Stick ............................ 90
Eye Shadow Stick ..................................... 91
Eyeliner Pencil ....................................... 91
Eyebrow Pencil ...................................... 91
Make-up Cream with Pearly Gloss, O N .................... 91
Eyeshadow ......................................... 92
Face Powder with Amihope LL ........................... 92
Powder Foundation .................................... 92
Eye Shadow Cream O N ................................ 93
Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid ............................. 94
Face Cleanser ........................................ 94
Cleansing Lotion, Contains Surfactant ...................... 94
FaceMask .......................................... 95
Gel Exfoliator ........................................ 95
Face Mask O N ...................................... 96
Vitamin Face Mask O N ................................ 96
Facial Cleanser ....................................... 97
Facial Gel Cleanser .................................... 98
Gelled Nail Lacquer Remover ........................... 102
Icey Blue Camphorated Skin Gel (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Gentle Body Polisher ................................. 103
Gentle Facial Cleanser & Moisturizer ...................... 104
xiv Contents and Subject Index
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray ........................ 105
Cheek Rouge ....................................... 105
Highly Protective Foundation ............................ 106
Water Thin Milk ..................................... 106
Lasting Strength Nail Toughener ......................... 107
Light Coverage Foundation ............................. 108
Eyeliner ........................................... 108
Lip Care Stick, Colorless ............................... 109
Lip Care Stick, Slightly Tinted. with Pearly Gloss ............. 109
Lip Care Stick with Azulene ............................ 109
Lip Salve .......................................... 109
Lipstick, Creamy .................................... 110
Lipstick with Pearly Gloss .............................. 110
Lipstick, Creamy. with Pearly Gloss ....................... 110
Lipstick ........................................... 111
Liquid Foundation .................................... 112
Powder Foundation ................................... 112
Long Wearing Creamy Lipstick .......................... 113
Lip Gloss .......................................... 113
Macroemulsion Cleansing Gel ........................... 114
Macroemulsion Fragrance Pearl .......................... 115
Make-up Emulsion O N Matting. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Skin Emulsion. Tinted. with Pearly Gloss O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Rouge Emulsion. Liquid O N ........................... 116
Mascara ........................................... 117
EyeGel ........................................... 118
Mild Facial Cleanser .................................. 119
Hot Oil Treatment ................................... 119
Moisturizing Fluid ................................... 120
Natural Cleanser ..................................... 121
Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5 ......................... 123
ON-Cleansing-Milk ................................. 124
Massage-Milk ...................................... 124
ON-Moisturizing-Milk ............................... 125
ON-Skin Milk ..................................... 125
Powder Cleanier ..................................... 129
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-102) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-302) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-502) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
PressedPowd er ...................................... 131
Face Powder with Amihope LL .......................... 131
Pressed Powder ...................................... 132
Lipstick ........................................... 110
Lip Make-up in Cream Form with Pearly Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Contents and Subject Index xv
Liquid Foundation .................................... 132
Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL ........................ 133
Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow ............................ 135
FaceMask ......................................... 135
Re-Vital Facial Toner ................................. 136
Sun-Rise Fresh Cleansing Gel ........................... 136
Rouge Compact Powder ............................... 137
Rouge Stick ........................................ 137
Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss ........................... 137
Sand Beige Oil-Free Makeup ........................... 138
Silk and Elastin Facial Firming Gel ....................... 139
Honey & Wheat Hydrating FaciaVBody Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Skin Conditioning Treatment ............................ 140
Skin Conditioning Bath & Shower Gel ..................... 140
Skin Emulsion. Matting O N as Foam Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Nutritive Emulsion. Fat O/W as Foam Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Foaming Cucumber Juice Emulsion O/W Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . 141
Skin Emulsion O/W with Placenta Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Skin Emulsion O/W with Vitamin ........................ 142
Skin Emulsion O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Skin Emulsion O/W with Collagen ........................ 143
Cucumber J uice Emulsion O W .......................... 143
Herbal Emulsion O/W ................................. 143
skin Gel .......................................... 144
Skin Hydrating Moisture Trap ........................... 145
Ski noi l ........................................... 146
Skin Care Oil ........................................ 146
Functional Skin Oil ................................... 146
Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . . . 147
Sports Gel ......................................... 148
Body Powder ....................................... 148
Sprayable Moisturizer ................................. 149
Sprayable Moisturizing Milk ............................ 150
Stick for Skin Impurities ............................... 151
Emulsion, Liquid, for Skin Impurities O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Vitamin E and Wheat Active Daily Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . 152
Gelled Makeup Remover ............................... 152
Water-in-Oil Luxurious Makeup ......................... 153
Protective Skin Gel ................................... 153
W/O Cleansing Milk .................................. 154
W/OSkinMilk ...................................... 154
xvi Contents and Subject Index
SECTION V: CREAMS .................................. 155
Alpha Hydroxy Cream with Soluble Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream .......................... 157
Anti-Ageing Treatment Cream .......................... 157
Balanced Emollient Cream ............................. 158
Replenishing Emollient Cream ........................... 158
Hand and Body Cream ................................ 158
Balanced Emollient Cream ............................. 159
Light Cleansing Cream ................................ 159
Replenishing Moisture Cream ........................... 159
Barrier Cream ....................................... 160
Moisture Cr& ..................................... 160
Body Cream ........................................ 161
Emollient Cream ..................................... 161
Hand Cream ........................................ 161
CareCreamON .................................... 162
Universal Care Cream O N ............................. 162
Cleansing Cream .................................... 163
Cleansing Cream O N ................................ 166
Washing Cream O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Cream for Skin Impurities O/W .......................... 167
Cream for Skin Impurities, Transparent. in Gel Form O N . . . . . . . 167
Cream with Placenta Extract W/O ........................ 168
Rejuvenating Cream OW .............................. 168
Skin Cream O N with Collagen .......................... 168
Day Cream ......................................... 169
Hand Cream ........................................ 170
Day Cream O N ..................................... 171
SkinCream O N .................................... 172
Day Cream OW ..................................... 173
Universal Day Cream O N ............................. 173
Day Cream0 N ..................................... 174
Depilatory Cream .................................... 178
Hand Cream ........................................ 178
Enrichment Cream ................................... 179
Emollient Body Lotion ................................ 179
Every Day Lotion .................................... 179
Facial Cleansing Cream ................................ 180
Facial Cleansing Milk ................................. 180
Foundation Cream .................................... 181
Hand Cream ........................................ 181
Glycerine Cream O N Hand Cream ....................... 182
Glycerine Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Hand and Body Cream ................................ 183
Contents and Subject Index xvii
SkinCream ........................................ 184
"Light and White" Day Cream ...........................
185
Moisturizing Enrichment Cream .......................... 186
Light Emollient Cream ................................ 187
Almond Oil Cr& ................................... 187
Almond Oil Cream with Protein ..........................
187
Light Enrichment Cream ............................... 188
Daily Nourishing Cream ............................... 188
Make-up Cream O/W ................................. 189
Massage Cream O/W .................................. 190
Massage Cream. Anhydrous. Removable by Washing
. . . . . . . . . . 190
Massage Oil ........................................ 190
Moisture Cream for Dry Skin ........................... 193
Oil Free Night Cream .................................
193
Moisturizing Cream .................................. 194
Emollient Cream ..................................... 194
Day Cream ......................................... 194
Moisturizing Cream .................................. 195
O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream ......................... 195
Moisturizing Protective Day Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Light Everyday Cream ................................ 196
Everyday Moisturizing Cream ........................... 196
Moisturizing Body Cream .............................. 197
Every Day Hand Cream ............................... 197
Moisturizing Cream O/W .............................. 198
Moisturizing Skin Cream ............................... 200
Nail Care Cream W/O ................................. 201
Cucumber J uice Cream O/W ............................. 201
Alcohol Cream O/W .................................. 201
Night Cream ........................................ 202
Care Cream W/O .................................... 204
ColdCreamW/O .................................... 204
Night and Care Cream W/O ............................ 205
Care Cream W/O .................................... 205
SkinCreamW/O .................................... 205
O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream ......................... 206
ON-Collagen-Cream ................................ 207
HandCream ........................................ 207
ON-Cream ........................................ 208
Protective Moisture Cream ............................. 212
Very Light Cream .................................... 212
Skin-Care Cream .................................... 184
Light Body Cream ................................... 186
Moisture Cream ..................................... 191
xviii Contents and Subject Index
Protective Day Cream .................................. 212
Protective Moisturizing Cream ........................... 213
Light Repair Cream .................................. 213
Rejuvenating Cream W/O .............................. 214
Herbal Cream W/O ................................... 214
Vitamin Cream W/O .................................. 214
Replenishing Cream .................................. 215
Ritavena Hand and Body Cream ......................... 216
Therapeutic Barrier Cream ............................. 216
SkinCream ........................................ 217
Skin Cream, Anhydrous ................................ 218
Skin Cream O/W Transparent in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Cream Base. Anhydrous ............................... 218
Skin Cream. Anhydrous ................................ 218
Skin Cream O/W .................................... 219
Skin Cream O/W with Shea Butter ........................ 219
Skin Cream O/W .................................... 220
Skin Cream O/W Fluid Type ............................ 220
skin Cream w/ o .................................... 220
Skin Cream O/W (Soft Cream) .......................... 221
Day Cream O/W ..................................... 221
Day Cream O/W (Soft Cream) ........................... 221
Skin Cream. Tinted Matting O N ......................... 222
Skin Cream. Tinted. with Pearly Gloss O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Rouge Cream. Anhydrous .............................. 222
Care Cream W/O .................................... 224
Skin Cream W/O .................................... 224
Skin Cream W/O with Collagen .......................... 225
Care Cream O/W with Azulene and Allantoin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Anti-Wrinkle Cream. Anhydrous ......................... 225
Skin Cream W/O with St . Johns Wort Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Skin Cream O/W with Avocado Oil ....................... 226
Glycerine Cream O/W with Silicone ...................... 226
Skin Cream W/O with Shea Butter ........................ 227
Skin Cream O/W .................................... 227
Skin Protecting Cream O/W with Silicone .................. 228
Skin Protecting Cream O/W Against Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Skin Protecting Cream W/O Against Aqueous Solutions . . . . . . . . 228
Smoothing Care Cream ................................ 229
Emollient Care Cream ................................. 229
Night Cream ........................................ 229
Soft Touch Cleansing Cream ............................ 230
Care Cream ........................................ 230
Skin Cream W/O .................................... 223
Contents and Subject Index xix
Sunflower Oil Cream ................................. 231
Sunflower Oil Cream with Protein ........................ 231
Light Moisturizing Cream .............................. 231
Tinted-Day-Cream ................................... 232
Universal Day Cream O/W ............................. 233
Day CreamO/W ..................................... 233
Skin Cream O/W .................................... 233
Universal Skin Cream O/W ............................. 234
Skin Cream O/W with Pleasurable Melting-on Effect . . . . . . . . . . 234
Day Cream0 /W ..................................... 234
Universal Skin Cream W/O ............................. 235
Universal Skin Cream W/O Hydrocarbon-Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Universal Skin Cream W/O ............................. 235
Skin Cream W/O .................................... 237
Urban Protection Day Cream ............................ 238
Vitamin Cream O/W .................................. 239
Vitamin Cream with Placenta Extract O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
Vitamin Cream W/O .................................. 240
Vitamin Cream O/W .................................. 240
Cream O/W with Elastin ............................... 240
Wash Cream ........................................ 241
Cleansing Cream .................................... 241
Washing Cream ..................................... 242
Day Cream ......................................... 242
Skin Cream ........................................ 242
Water in Oil Foundation Cream .......................... 243
Vanishing Cream .................................... 243
W/O-Cream ........................................ 244
All Round-Cream .................................... 248
W/O Cream with Eldew ............................... 249
HandCream ........................................ 249
SECllON VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS .................... 250
Aerosol Finishing Spray ............................... 251
Shaping Spray Hair Spray/Spray Gel ...................... 251
Aerosol Hair Spray. Regular Hold ........................ 252
Aerosol Hair Spray. Super Hold .......................... 252
Aerosol Hair Spray. Maximum Hold ...................... 252
Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
Aerosol Hairspray "100% V0C"-CMB Horizon System . . . . . . . . 254
Aerosol Hairspray. Hydrocarbon Propellant .................. 254
Aerosol Hairspray .................................... 254
Aerosol Spray ....................................... 255
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray ......................... 257
xx Contents and Subject Index
Shine and Hold Spray ................................. 257
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray ......................... 258
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 258
Alcohol-Free Styling Gel .............................. 259
Hair Setting Gel ..................................... 259
Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse ........................... 260
Setting Lotion ....................................... 260
Aqua-Vital Moisturizing Spray (Pump Type) ................ 261
Every Day Wave Gel Activator .......................... 261
Birch Hair Tonic .................................... 262
Hair Tonic, Oily ..................................... 262
Hair Tonic, Fat-Free . . . . ; ............................. 262
Hair Tonic for Greasy Hair ............................. 262
Bleaching Cream .................................... 263
Bleaching Emulsion .................................. 263
Bleaching Oil, Gelatinizing ............................. 263
Blow Drying Lotion .................................. 264
Blow Drying Lotion, Clear ............................. 264
Blow Drying Solution, Aerosol-Packed .................... 264
Bodifying Sculpting Lotion ............................. 265
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 265
Brushing Gel ....................................... 266
Hair Rinse ......................................... 266
Brushing Lotion ..................................... 267
Hair Brushing Lotion ................................. 267
Cationic Thermal Styling Mousse (Nonaerosol, for Foamers) . . . . . 268
Firm Hold Cationic Hair Spray .......................... 268
Cold Wave Cream ................................... 269
Hair Straightening Cream .............................. 269
Cold Wave Cream ................................... 270
Cold Wave Emulsion ................................. 270
Cold Wave Emulsion, Foaming .......................... 271
Cold Wave Solution, Foaming, Clear
271
Cold Wave Solution, Clear, Foaming ...................... 271
Cold Wave Fixative. Foaming ........................... 272
Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming, in Emulsion Form ............. 272
Cold Wave Fixative in Emulsion Form .....................
272
Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming ........................... 273
Cold Wave Fixative with Bromate ........................ 273
Cold Wave Fixative, Foam, Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Base for Hair Dye Creams .............................. 273
Conditioner ........................................ 274
Hair Gel ........................................... 275
Hair Fixative ....................................... 275
......................
Contents and Subject Index xxi
Conditioner ........................................ 276
Styling Gel ......................................... 276
Conditioning Protein Hair Gel ........................... 277
Hair Setting Gel ..................................... 277
Conditioning Rinse. Aerosol-Packed ...................... 278
Conditioning Rinse Aerosol-Packed, Remains on Hair . . . . . . . . . . 278
Hair Conditioner. Aerosol-Packed ........................ 278
Conditioning Setting Lotion. Clear ......................... 279
Conditioning Setting Lotion. Cloudy ...................... 279
Setting Lotion. Clear. Oily .............................. 279
Cream Rinse ........................................ 280
Curl Activator ...................................... 283
Wave Lotion (Buffered) ............................... 283
Economy Creme Rinse Conditioner ....................... 284
"Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner ......................... 284
Extra-Firm Holding Hairspray ........................... 285
Extra Firm Holding Hairspray ........................... 286
Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 285
80% VOC Hairspray .................................. 286
Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 287
Hairspray .......................................... 287
Firm Holding Luster Spritz ............................. 288
Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray ....................... 288
Medium Hold Sheen Spray ............................. 288
Foam Conditioner for Body and Volume. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . 289
Setting Lotion. Aerosol-Packed .......................... 289
Foam Conditioner .................................... 289
Foaming Anti-Dandruff Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Flexible Styler Hair Spray .............................. 290
Pemethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray-Low VOC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Gel Curl Activator with Lanolin .......................... 291
Clear Curl Activator Gel ............................... 291
Hair Brushing Lotion ................................. 292
Hair Conditioner with CAE ............................. 293
Setting Lotion ....................................... 293
Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative ..................... 294
Vitamin Lecithin Hair Conditioner. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Hair Conditioner with Jojoba Oil Substitute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Hair Conditioning Gel ................................. 295
Hair Liquid (Soft Type) ................................ 295
Hair Cream ........................................ 296
Hair Tonic ......................................... 296
Hair Dressing Cream OW. with Allantoin .................. 297
Hair Dressing Gel. Transparent .......................... 297
xxii Contents and Subject Index
Hair Dressing Gel .................................... 297
Hair Dressing Gel. Oily ................................ 297
Hair Moisturizer ..................................... 298
Hair Pomade ....................................... 298
Hair Relaxer ........................................ 299
Hair Rinse Emulsion .................................. 300
Hair Rinse ......................................... 300
Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat Free ............................. 300
Hair Rinse Foam, Aerosol-Packed ........................ 300
Hair Sculpturing Treatment ............................. 301
Flexible Hold Styling Mousse ........................... 301
Hair Setting Cream ................................... 302
Permanent Wave ..................................... 302
Cold Perm (Carbonated) ............................... 302
Medium Hold Hair Spray .............................. 304
Firm HoldinglHigh Humidity Hair Spray ................... 304
Pump Setting Spray (100% VOC) ........................ 307
Pump Setting Spray (80% VOC) ......................... 307
Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed ............................ 308
Hair Dressing Cream O N .............................. 308
Hair Dressing Cream W/O .............................. 308
High Solids Hair Spray-80% VOC ....................... 309
High Solids Hair Spray, Innovative 80% Equivalent . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Instant Hair Conditioner, Fat-Free, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear .......................... 310
Instant Hair Conditioner with Jojoba Oil Substitute ............ 311
Conditioning Rinse ................................... 311
Conditioning Rinse with Jojoba Oil Substitute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Conditioning Rinse with Protein ..........................
311
Intensive Hair Conditioner Foam. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream ......................... 312
Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed .............. 313
Protein Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream ......................... 314
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 314
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion with Pearly Gloss . . . . . . . . . . 314
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream ....................... 315
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Herbal Pack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Vitamin Pack . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 316
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion ..................... 317
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion for Dry Hair ............ 318
Hairspray .......................................... 303
Hairspray .......................................... 305
Contents and Subject Index xxiii
Instant Hair Copditioning Emulsion. Clouding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 319
Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
Keratin Infused Hair Treatment .......................... 321
Extra Rich Conditioner ................................ 321
Light HoldinglBody Building Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
Forever Curls Hair Spray ............................... 322
Liquid Protein Protective Hair Finish ...................... 323
Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner ........................ 323
Low Cost 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
Superhold Pump Hair Spray ............................. 324
Maximum Keratin Therapy (for extremely damaged hair) . . . . . . . 325
Clear Leave-On Hair Conditioner ........................ 325
Mink Anti-Dandruff Hair Groom ......................... 326
Cream Rinse ........................................ 326
Moisturizing Styling Spray ............................. 327
Hair Conditionerminse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray wPennethy1 101A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ....................... 328
Spritz-A-Style Hair Spray ............................. 328
Non-Lye Hair Relaxer Cream ........................... 329
Clear Gel Hair Pomade ................................ 329
Professional Care Intensive Conditioner .................... 330
Cream Hair Conditioner ............................... 330
Professional Treatment Conditioner ....................... 331
Light Creme Rinse Conditioner ......................... 331
Protein & Lanolin Hot Oil Treatment ...................... 332
Pump Type Hair Spray ................................ 332
Pump Hair Spray .................................... 333
Hair Styling Gel ...................................... 333
Pump Hair Spray .................................... 334
Aerosol Spray ....................................... 334
Regular Hold .................................... 335
Super Hold 332
Pump Setting Conditioning Mousse ....................... 336
Setting *Lotion ....................................... 336
Pump Spray ........................................ 337
Setting Foam ....................................... 337
Setting Conditioning Mousse ............................ 338
Keratin Creme Dry Hair Dressing ........................ 320
Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray ....................... 322
Pump Hair Spray
......................................
Maximum Hold .................................. 335
80% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray ...................... 336
xxiv Contents and Subject Index
Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse ......................... 338
Setting-Conditioning Mousse. Aqueous-Alcoholic . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
Styling Mousse ...................................... 339
Setting Lotion. Clear. in Gel Form ........................ 340
Setting Lotion. Clear. Liquid ............................ 340
Conditioning Setting Lotion. Clear ........................ 340
Setting Lotion. Foam. Aerosol-Packed ..................... 341
Setting Lotion. Extra Strong. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Setting Mousse ...................................... 342
Setting Conditioning Mousse ............................ 342
Pump Setting Mousse ................................. 342
Shine N' Setgtyl i ng & Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
Silk and Soy Styling5low Drying Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
Moisturizing Styling Spray ............................. 344
Silky Soft Conditioner for Bodied Hair ..................... 345
Spray Leave-On Conditioner ............................ 345
Simply Hair ........................................ 346
Styling Mousse ...................................... 346
Simply Wheat Non-Aerosol Hair Spray .................... 347
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Extra Hold . . . . . . . . . . 347
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Super Hold . . . . . . . . . 347
Smooth and Shine Keratin Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
Pearly Lotion Conditioner .............................. 348
Soy Hydrating Hair Therape ............................ 349
Foaming Conditioner .................................. 349
Soy Infused Hair Treatment ............................. 350
Mild Pearl Conditioner ................................ 350
Spray Gel .......................................... 351
Styling Gel with Shellac ............................... 352
High Solids 55% VOC Pump Spray ....................... 352
Super-Hold Hair Spray ................................ 354
Aerosol Hair Spray ................................... 354
Hairspray (Mechanically Actuated) ........................ 354
Ultra Rich Conditioner ................................ 355
Hair Relaxer ........................................ 355
Vegetable Creme Hair Dressing .......................... 356
Clear Conditioner .................................... 356
Water-Based Hair Sprays .............................. 357
Water-Based Pump Hair Spray .......................... 358
Hair Spritzing Spray. Non-Aerosol ....................... 358
Wet Gel. Alcohol-Free ................................ 359
Wet Gel ........................................... 359
Hair Oil ........................................... 359
StylingMousse ...................................... 353
Contents and Subject Index xxv
Wet Gel with Glitter Effect. Contains Alcohol ............... 360
WetGel ........................................... 360
Wet Gel with Reduced Alcohol Content .................... 361
Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free ................................ 361
Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel ....................... 362
Hi-Fashion Hair Sculpture Gel .......................... 362
3 in 1 Professional Conditioning Mousse with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . 363
55% VOC DME(HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 364
80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ....................... 365
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez C-425 and
Gantrez XL-80 .................................... 365
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 366
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ............................... 366
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation, Stiff Feel . . . . . . . . . . 366
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 367
80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray ........................... 367
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 368
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ............................... 368
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation, Stiff Feel . . . . . . . . . . 368
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez V-225, Advantage V
and Gantrez XL-80 ................................. 369
Alcohol-Free Styling Mist .............................. 369
80% VOC Shine and Hold Spray ......................... 370
Non-Aerosol 80% VOC Hair Spray ....................... 370
Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 370
80% VOC Super Hold Hair Spray ........................ 371
80% VOC Hairspray .................................. 371
SECTION W: INSECT REPELLENTS ..................... 372
373
Insect Repellent Emulsion O N . Liquid .................... 373
Insect Repellent Oil. Alcoholic .......................... 373
Insect Repellent Stick ................................. 374
Insect Repellent Spray. Aerosol-Packed .................... 374
Insect Repellent Cream O/W ............................
SECTION VIII: LOTIONS ............................... 375
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion ............................ 376
Light Hand Lotion ................................... 376
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
Hand and Body Lotion ................................ 377
Barrier Lotion ....................................... 378
Body Lotion ........................................ 379
Skin Lotion ........................................ 380
xxvi Contents and Subject Index
Body Lotion ........................................ 381
Hand Lotion ........................................ 381
Body Lotion ........................................ 382
Hand Lotion ........................................ 382
Body Lotion ........................................ 383
Moisture Lotion ..................................... 384
Cationic Conditioning Lotion ............................ 385
Cleansing Lotion. Liquid ............................... 387
Cleansing Liquid .................................... 387
Cleansing Lotion .................................... 387
Cleansing Lotion. Pearly ............................... 388
Deodorant. Cleansing Lotion. Liquid. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
Cleansing Lotion. Clear. Soap Free. Especially Skin Compatible . . 388
Cleansing Lotion. Pearly. Soap Free. Especially Skin
Compatible ....................................... 389
Cleansing Lotion. Cloudy .............................. 389
Collagen and Cocoa Butter Skin Lotion .................... 390
Conditioning Hand Lotion .............................. 391
Dry Skin Care Lotion ................................. 392
Emollient Care Lotion ................................. 393
Cleansing Lotion .................................... 393
Viscous Body Milk ................................... 393
Emollient Fluid ...................................... 394
Cleansing Lotion .................................... 394
Emollient Fluid ...................................... 395
General Hand and Body Lotion .......................... 395
Emollient Lotion ..................................... 396
Light Body Lotion (Cold Mix) ........................... 397
Emollient Lotion ..................................... 398
Light Body Lotion ................................... 398
FaceLotion ........................................ 399
Herbal Face Lotion ................................... 399
Astringent Tonic ..................................... 399
Fragrance Lotion .................................... 400
Emollient Lotion ..................................... 401
Gentle Cleansing Lotion ............................... 402
MilkLotion ........................................ 402
Hand Lotion ........................................ 403
Gentle Cleansing Lotion ............................... 404
Intensive Treatment Lotion ............................. 405
Light Protective Day Lotion ............................ 406
Pearlescent Lotion ................................... 406
Low Solids Mild Cationic Lotion ......................... 407
Hand and Body Lotion ................................ 395
Contents and Subject Index xxvii
Normal Skin Lotion .................................. 407
Lubridem Type Lotion ................................ 408
Lubridexm Type Lotion with Ritavena 5 .................... 409
Low Solids Anionic Lotion with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
Mild Lotion with Amihope ............................. 410
W/O Lotion with Eldew ............................... 410
Moisturizing Hand and Body Lotion ....................... 411
Regenerative Lotion .................................. 411
Sunflower Oil Body Lotion ............................. 411
Moisturizing Lotion .................................. 412
Body Lotion ........................................ 413
Moisturizing Lotion .................................. 414
Hand and Body Lotion ................................ 414
Moisturizing Skin Lotion ............................... 415
Emollient Skin Lotion ................................. 415
Natural Collagen, Aloe and Lanolin Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416
O N Broad-Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with
Vitamins ......................................... 417
O N Hand and Body Lotion ............................ 418
Lanolin Hand and Body Lotion .......................... 418
Washing Lotion ..................................... 419
Handwashing-Paste .................................. 420
SECI'ION Ix: SHAMPOOS ............................... 421
Amino Moisture Balance Shampoo ........................ 422
Shampoo .......................................... 422
Amino-Soy Revital Shampoo ........................... 423
Shampoo for Permed Hair .............................. 423
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ............................... 424
Shampoo for Greasy Hair .............................. 426
SulfurShampoo ..................................... 426
Shampoo. with Azulene. Clear ........................... 426
Herbal Shampoo. Clear ................................ 426
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
Silicone Shampoo with Ritavena 5 ........................ 428
Balance Shampoo .................................... 429
Shampoo with Care Additive ............................ 429
Shampoo with Plantaren PS 10 .......................... 429
Clear Shampoo ................................ ; . . . . . 430
Mild. Clear Care Shampoo ............................. 430
Clear Shampoo with Panthenol .......................... 430
Clear Shampoo with Protein ............................ 431
Clear Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Keratin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
Mild. Clear Shampoo with Keratin ........................ 431
xxvi i i Contents and Subject Index
Clear and Bright Shampoo Plus Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
Conditioning. Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ..................... 433
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 434
Shampoo .......................................... 435
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 436
Clear Shampoo ...................................... 436
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 437
After-Perm Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 437
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 438
Neutralizing Shampoo ................................. 438
Conditioning-Shampoo ................................ 439
Antidandruff-Shampoo ................................ 442
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. Clear ........................... 443
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Sulfur ...................... 443
444
Herbal Shampoo in Cream Form ......................... 444
Softening Shampoo in Cream Form with Guar Derivative . . . . . . . 444
Cream Shampoo with Ampholyte ......................... 444
Everyday Mild Conditioning Shampoo ..................... 446
Economy Shampoo ................................... 446
Family Shampoo ..................................... 447
Frequent-Use Antidandruff Shampoo Plus Conditioner . . . . . . . . . 448
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 449
Hair Repair Shampoo (Shampoo for Damaged air) . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
Ethnic Hair Care. Cream Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
Hair Shampoo ...................................... 451
Herbal Shampoo. Clear ................................ 457
Dead Nettle Extract Shampoo. Clear ...................... 457
Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced ...................... 457
Shampoo. Clear. Liquid. Very Acidic ...................... 457
Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 457
Herbal Shampoo. Pearly ............................... 458
Mild. Pearly Gloss Shampoo ............................ 458
Shampoo for Dry Hair. with Protein ....................... 458
Protein Shampoo. Very Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
Keratin Neutralizing Shampoo ........................... 459
Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 459
Liquid Shampoo ..................................... 460
Shampoo .......................................... 460
Mild. Clear Shampoo ................................. 461
Conditioning Shampoo. Clear ........................... 443
Cream Shampoo with Protein ............................
Cristal Clear Shampoo ................................ 445
Collagen Gel Shampoo ................................ 447
Gentle Shampoo ..................................... 449
Contents and Subject Index nix
Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein ........................ 461
Mild Conditioning Shampoo ............................ 462
Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair .................... 462
Milk Powder Shampoo ................................ 463
Shampoo. with Collagen. Pearly .......................... 463
Sulfur Shampoo. Pearly ................................ 463
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein ....................... 463
Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo ...................... 464
Oil Shampoo in Clear Form ............................. 466
Mink Oil Shampoo. Clear .............................. 466
Oil Shampoo. Pearly .................................. 466
Oil Shampoo with Egg. Pearly ........................... 466
Paste Shampoo ...................................... 467
Self Adjusting Shampoo ............................... 467
Pearled Acid Balanced Geropon T-77 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
Clear Geropon T-77 Shampoo ........................... 468
Pearlescent Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Almond Protein . . . . . . . . . 469
Mild. Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein .................... 469
Pearlescent Shampoo .................................. 469
Pearlized Mink Shampoo ............................... 470
Low Irritation Shampoo ................................ 470
Pearly Gloss Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
Acidic Shampoo. Pearly ............................... 471
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. Pearly .......................... 471
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein. Slightly Acidic . . . . . . . . . . . 472
Shampoo with Azulene. Pearly ........................... 472
Pearly Gloss Shampoo. Softening ......................... 472
Special Shampoo for Dry Hair ........................... 472
Professional Formula Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
Tear Free 2 1 Shampoo ................................ 473
Re-Nu Shampoo for Thinning Hair ....................... 474
Neutralizer Shampoo .................................. 474
Shampoo .......................................... 475
Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 475
Shampoo. Aerosol-Packed .............................. 476
Shampoo Mousse .................................... 476
Shampoo in Aerosol Form .............................. 476
Baby Shampoo in Aerosol Form ......................... 476
Shampoo in Powder Form. Surfactant-Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
Shampoo. Clear. Liquid ................................ 477
Shampoo. with Hair-Care Effect ......................... 478
Shampoo for Daily Use ................................ 478
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ............................... 478
Shampoo in Cream Form ............................... 479
xxx Contents and Subject Index
Cream Shampoo with Egg .............................. 479
Shampoo Plus Conditioner .............................. 480
Shampoo withAmpholyte .............................. 481
Protein-Shampoo .................................... 481
Shampoo for Structurally Damaged Hair .................... 481
Multivitamin-Shampoo ................................ 481
Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 482
Shampoo Clear, Liquid ................................ 482
Shampoo Especially Skin Compatible ...................... 482
Shampoo, with Sulfosuccinate ........................... 482
Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 483
Shampoo Concentrate, Pearly ............................ 483
Herbal Shampoo, Pearly ............................... 483
Shampoo with Conditioning Effect ........................ 484
Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute ....................... 485
Conditioning Shampoo, Pearly ........................... 485
Shampoo, Clear ..................................... 482
Shampoo, Mild ...................................... 484
Shampoo, Pearly ..................................... 485
Shampoo, Cloudy .................................... 488
Shampoo, Pearly ..................................... 488
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Cloudy ......................... 488
Shampoo Plus Conditioner Plus W Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
Shampoo Shower Bath Combination, Pearly ................. 490
Lecithin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 490
Lecithin-Egg Shampoo, Pearly .......................... 490
Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 490
Shampoo, with Vitamin E .............................. 491
Shampoo with Ampholyte in Gel Form ..................... 491
Shampoo in Gel Form ................................. 491
Shampoo with Sulfosuccinate ............................ 492
Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute ....................... 492
Shampoo for Greasy Hair .............................. 492
Shampoo for Sensitive Scalps ........................... 492
Silk Neutralizing Shampoo ............................. 493
Enriched Protein and Honey Shampoo ..................... 493
Softening Shampoo, Pearly ............................. 494
Silken Sheen Shampoo, Softening ........................ 494
Vege-Clean Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 495
High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo .......................... 495
Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 496
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Arnica Tincture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg ......................... 496
Wash N Style Family Shampoo .......................... 497
Contents and Subject Index xxxi
Wheat Gem Oil and Honey Shampoo ..................... 498
Pearlescent Cream Shampoo ............................ 498
Wig Shampoo ....................................... 499
Wig Shampoo. Cationic ................................ 499
2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo ........................... 500
SECTION X SHAVING PRODUCTS ....................... 502
Aftershave Balm .................................... 503
After-Shave Gel ..................................... 507
After Shave Tonic .................................... 507
Aftershave Gel ...................................... 508
Re-Shave Lotion .................................... 508
Shaving Cream ...................................... 509
Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed .......................... 510
Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving ..................... 511
SECIlON XI: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
Ajinomoto Solid Bar AI-KK ............................ 513
Ajinomoto Clear Soap with Amisoft ....................... 513
Anti-Bacterial Handsoap ............................... 514
Emollient Hand Cleaner ............................... 514
Conditioning Cleansing Bar ............................. 515
Conditioning Hand Cleaner ............................. 516
Emollient Liquid Hand Soap ............................ 516
Cream Soap ........................................ 517
Bar Soap .......................................... 518
Cream Soap ........................................ 518
Emollient Hand Cleanser ............................... 519
Clear Emollient Hand Soap ............................. 519
Liquid Soap ........................................ 520
Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner
Liquid Soap ........................................ 522
Shebu Bar Soap ..................................... 524
Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap .............................. 524
Soap Base Beauty Bar ................................. 524
Shebu Bar Soap ..................................... 525
Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap .............................. 525
Synthetic Detergent (SYNDET) Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
Cream Hand Cleanser ................................. 526
Waterless Hand Cleaner ............................... 527
.......................... 522
Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5 ............ 523
xxxii Contents and Subject Index
SECIlON XU: SUN CARE PRODUCTS ..................... 528
After Sun Lotion ...................................... 529
SunTan Cream ..................................... 529
SunTan Oil ........................................ 529
After-Sun-Milk ..................................... 530
Moisturizing Hydrogel with B-Glucan ..................... 531
High SPF Sunscreen Cream ............................. 533
Low Solids Highly Emollient Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
Sun Care DIN Standard Reference (USFDA Tentative Final
Monograph) ...................................... 534
Nourishing UVB Gel Sunscreen .......................... 535
Bain de Soleil Type Orange Gelee ........................ 535
ON-Sun-Screen-Milk ............................... 536
Sprayable Sunscreen .................................. 537
Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12 ........................... 539
Sprayable Sunscreen Based on Ti02 ...................... 540
Sun Block Lotion .................................... 541
Suncare Product with Titanium Dioxide .................... 542
Sun Protection Gel, Approx . SPF8 ........................ 543
Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF10) .................... 543
Sunscreen Containing Emollient Cream .................... 544
Sunscreen Lotion .................................... 544
Sunscreen Cream .................................... 545
After-Sun Lotion .................................... 545
Sun Screen Cream O N ............................... 546
Sun Screen Emulsion O N , Liquid ........................ 547
Sun Screen Emulsion O N with Repellent, Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
Sun Screen Oil ...................................... 548
Sun Screen Oil with Repellent ........................... 548
Sunscreen Lotion wNV-Titan M212 ...................... 549
Sunscreen Lotion wNV-Titan M262 ...................... 549
Sun Screen Stick with Total Light Protection (Sun Blocker) . . . . . . 550
Lipstick with Light Protection ........................... 550
Sun Screen Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................ 550
Sun Screen Spray Low-Fat Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550
Sun Shield Day Cream ................................ 551
PABA Free Sunscreen Lotion ........................... 551
Sun Tan Cream ..................................... 552
Sun Tan Lotion W/O ................................. 555
USFDA Standard SPF 4.11 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
Suntan Lotion with UV Protection ........................ 556
Coppertone Type Self Tanner ........................... 556
Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen ........................... 532
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
Contents and Subject Index xxxiii
Tanning Oil with Shebu ............................... 557
Moisturizing Suntan Oil. Coppertone Type .................. 557
Ti02 OiVWater Sunscreen Lotion ........................ 558
Ti02 Sunscreen ..................................... 558
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen ............... 559
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen with Pemulen
TR-1 and Carbopl Ultrez 10 Estimate SPF-18 ............ 560
Transparent Sun-Block Cream ........................... 561
Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12) .......................... 562
SunTan Cream ..................................... 562
Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) ..................... 563
Waterproof Sunscreen with Ultrafine Ti02 .................. 565
ZnO/riO2. Sunscreen Lotion. SPF-15 ..................... 565
Water Resistant Sunscreen .............................. 566
Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion ........................ 567
Sunblock .......................................... 567
W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Eldew ........................ 568
Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew ......................... 568
SECTION XIXI: MISCELLANEOUS ........................ 569
Cleanser. Clear. Liquid ................................ 570
Cleanser. Disinfecting. Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
Footbath. Fungicide. Liquid ............................. 570
Washing Cream for Tube Filling ......................... 570
Clear Golden Hydrogel ................................ 571
Glycerol Gel Base .................................... 571
Dentifrice Gel ....................................... 572
Denture Cleanser in Powder Form ........................ 573
Denture Cleaner in Tablet Form .......................... 573
Denture-Cleaning Tablets .............................. 573
Detackification of Carbomer Gel ......................... 574
Liposome Gel ....................................... 575
Mouth-Wash Gargle. Foaming ........................... 576
Mouth-Wash Gargle. Emulsifying ........................ 576
Oil-Lipsome-Gel .................................... 577
Vitamin-Lipsome-Gel ................................ 577
Personal Hygiene Cleansers. Cleaner. Disinfectant. Clear . . . . . . . . 578
Cleanser. Disinfectant. Clear ............................ 578
Cleanser. Bactericide. Clear. Liquid ....................... 578
Cleanser. Disinfecting. Aerosol-Packed .................... 578
Personal Hygiene Cleansing Emulsions (Cleansers in Emulsion
Form for Personal Hygiene). Cleansing Lotion. Disinfecting.
Pearly ........................................... 579
Cleansing Lotion. Disinfecting. Pearly ..................... 579
xxxiv Contents and Subject Index
Personal Hygiene Spray ................................ 579
Personal Hygiene Spray (Dry Spray) ...................... 579
Quick Emulsifying Base-A ............................. 580
Quick Emulsifying Base-B ............................. 580
Quick Emulsifying Base-C ............................. 580
Shampoo Concentrate for Dogs and Cats ................... 582
Flea and Tick Shampoo for Dogs ......................... 581
Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo ........................ 582
Body Building Conditioner ............................. 582
Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent ......................... 583
Toothpaste, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
Toothpaste ......................................... 585
Toothpaste, Foaming .................................. 586
Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200 ..................... 587
Water-Resistant Sport Tint ............................. 588
Toothpaste ......................................... 584
SECTION XIV: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . 589
SECTION XV: SUPPLJEW' ADDRESSES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633
Section I
Antiperspirants and
Deodorants
1
2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Perspirant Cream
S of t whi te cream. Leaves no vi s i bl e traces o f aluminum
chl orohydrate on the s ki n.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Cetyl Al cohol
S tearyl A1 coho1
Locron P/Aluminum Chl orhydrate
Eumulgin M8/01eth-10 (and) Ol eth- 5
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol
B: Bel s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
Water
Pigments, fragrances
2,50%
2,50
15,OO
3,OO
6 , O O
9,oo
62,OO
q. s .
Mix A and heat t o 70C, form a s o l i d phase wi th warm water,
work i n Bel s i l CM 040 and di l ut e wi th water.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C 4 weeks.
F ormul ati on 216 AH
Anti-Perspirant Cream
S of t whi te cream. Leaves no vi s i bl e traces o f aluminum chl or-
hydrate on the ski n.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A : Cetyl Al cohol
S tearyl Al cohol
Locron P/A1 umi num Chl orhydrate
Eumulgin M8/01eth-10 (and) Ol eth- 5
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol
B: B el s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
Bel s i 1 PDM 20/P henyldimethicone
Water
P i gments, fragrances
2,50%
2,50
10,oo
3 , O O
6,60
9, 00
3 , O O
63,40
q.s.
Mix A and heat t o 70C, mix i n hot water, add B and mix wel l .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 217AH
Anti-Perspirant Roll-on
Milky white, liquid.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Locron P/Aluminum Chl orhydrate
Wacker HDK H15/Si 1 i ca
B: Lamecreme KS/Glyceryl S tearate se
Bel s i 1 DM 1 OO/Dimethi cone
C: Bel s i 1 CM 020/Cyclomethicone
P i gments, fragrances
20,00%
1 , oo
3,OO
5,OO
71,OO
9, s .
Mix A and heat t o 70-75C, mix B and mel t. Mix A and B, add C,
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C 3 weeks.
F ormul ati on 185 AH
cool .
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 3
Antiperspirant Cream O/W
I Lanette 0
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G *
Water
I 1 Aluminum chl orohydrate
Formula No. F12-01
Antiperspirant Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form
I Eumulgin 83
C eti ol HE
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Water
I 1 Aluminum chl orohydrate
Formula No. F12-02
Perfumed Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form
I Eumulgin 81
E thyl al cohol 96%
Carbopol 940
Perfume
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
%w/w
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
8. 0
20. 0
61 .O
Y U
12. 0
20.0
5. 0
20. 0
43.0
o/ow/w
2. 0
45. 0
1. 5
5. 0
2. 3
44.2
P reparat i on :
of ethyl al cohol and 40 par ts water; the Carbopol 940 i s
s t i r r e d whi l e bei ng swel l ed i n the s ol uti on. The di s pers i on
produced i s neutral i z ed wi th the mi xture of tri ethanol ami ne and
the r es t o f the water.
Formula No. F13-01
Eumulgin E1 and the perfumed o i l are di ssol ved i n the mi xture
Perfumed Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-3% s ol uti on
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Formula No. F13-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
2. 0
20.0
6 5 . 0
5 . 0
8 . 0
4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-perspirant Roll-on
Slightly cloudy, high viscosity.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Bel s i 1 DMC 6032/Dimethicone CoDolvol Acetate 2,00%
. -
Water 52 100
B: Ethanol /Al cohol (Cosmetic grade)
C: Locron L/A1 umi num Chl orhydrate
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
Pigments, fragrances
25,OO
20,oo
Q . S .
0,5-1 , O
Mix A, s t i r B i nt o A, mix i n C . The desi red vi s cos i ty can
be regul ated wi th Tyl ose H 4000 P (add Tyl ose H 4000 P ei ther
mixed wi th water t o A or mix a t the end i n the f i ni s hed form-
ul ati on.
F ormul ati on 516 AH
Anti-perspirant Roll-on
Cloudy, low viscosity.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
Water
Ethanol /Al cohol (Cosmetic grade)
Bel s i l DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol
Wacker HDK H15/ S i l i ca
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
Locron L/Alumi num Chl orohydrate
Pigments, fragrances
51,20%
12,oo
5 , O O
1,50
0. 30
30,OO
q . s .
Mi x the water and cosmetic al cohol , di s s ol ve B el s i l DMC 6031.
Add HDK HI 5 and Tyl ose H 4000 P t o the s ol uti on whi l s t s t i r r i ng.
S t i r i n the aluminum chl orhydrate.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 242 AH
Anti-perspirant Stick
White firm stick with little soft rub
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: B el s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
B: S tearyl Al cohol
Arl acel 165/Gl yceryl S tearate se
Locron P / A l umi num Chl orhydrate
Pigments, fragrances
Mi x B and heat t o 65C. S t i r i n B el s i l CM 040.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 302 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: SugOested F ormul ati ons
52,50%
24,OO
1 , oo
22,OO
q . s .
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 5
Clear Antiperspirant Stick
A s o l i d anti pers pi rant s ti c k which contai ns a s ol ubi l i z ed
enhanced ef f i cacy aluminum-zirconium tetrachl orohydrate GPG
acti ve i n a cl ear base.
I nnredi ents:
A. Reach AZP-908PG (300/0 s ol n. )
B. P ropylene Gl ycol
C, PPG-3-I sosteareth-9
D. P ropylene Carbonate
E. D i propyl ene Gl ycol
F . D i benzyl i dene Sorbi to1
G. I sosteareth- 2
H. Laureth-2 Benzoate
I. Dimethicone Copolyol
J . AMP Regular
K . Fragrance
Procedure:
% by wei aht
50.00
20.70
8.00
6.00
4.00
3. 00
3. 00
2.00
1. 50
1. 80
q . s .
1.
2.
3.
4 .
5.
Add B,D,E, and I i n sequence t o beaker wi th medium agi tati on
and heat t o I O O C .
Add F t o beaker and mix wi th medium agi tati on u n t i l di ssol ved
and the s ol uti on i s cl ear. Lower temperature t o 95C.
Heat A separatel y t o 85C and add J . Mix u n t i l cl ear. Add t o
main batch.
Premix C, G, H, and K and heat t o 85C and add t o main batch
sl owl y a t low t o medium speed.
Continue mi xi ng and pour i nt o casi ngs a t 80-85C.
F ormul ati on PF-0276 suggested by Reheis, I nc.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Con : Angus P roduct Formulary
Antiperspirant Roll-on
Colourless, clear, low-viscosity.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Wacker-Bel s i 1 DMC 6038/Dimethi cone Copolyol
Water
Ethanol /Al cohol (Cosmetic grade)
Locron L/A1 umi numchl orhydrat
Fragrances, pigments
Mix a l l i ngredi ents.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 180 AH
2,00%
53,OO
25,OO
20,oo
q . s .
6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deodorant Emulsion O/W for Roll-On
%w/w
I Cuti na MD 4. 0
Eumulgin 81 1.5
Eumulgin 82 1. 5
Eutanol G 5. 0
Bacteri ci de 0. 5
I 1 E thyl al cohol 96% 10.0
Carbopol 934 0.3
Tri ethanol ami ne 0. 5
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 5.0
Water 71 .7
P reparati on:
The f a t t y substances are mel ted on the water bath a t approx.
70C and the bacteri ci de i s di ssol ved. 50 parts o f the water are
mixed wi th the gl yceri ne, heated t o approx. 75 C and, s t i r r i n g
sl owl y, added t o the f a t phase. The Carbopol 934 i s s t i r r e d whi l e
bei ng di spersed i n 15 parts o f the water. Af ter the emulsion
has cool ed t o approx. 35C, the ethyl al cohol and the Carbopol
di spersi on are added, perfumed, preserved and neutral i z ed wi th
the tri ethanol ami ne which has been di ssol ved ear l i er i n the
remai ni ng 6.1 parts o f the water.
Formula NO. F21-01
Antiperspirant Emulsion O/W, Liquid (Roll-On)
I Lanette 16
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Water
I 1 Aluminum chl orohydrate
Formula No. F22-01
?@Jy
2. 0
5. 0
1.5
1.5
4. 0
10.0
76.0
Antiperspirant Emulsion O/W (Roll-On)
@!&!
Eutanol G 3. 0
Vi scontran MC 400-6% s ol uti on 30.0
Aluminum chl orohydrate 20. 0
E thyl al cohol 96% 17.0
Water 30.0
P reparati on:
t h i s s ol uti on i s added t o the Vi scontran s ol uti on. The mi xture
o f Eutanol G and ethyl al cohol i s s t i r r e d i n and then homogen-
i zed.
Formula No. F22-02
SOURCE : Henkel KGaA: Co me t i c Model Formulae
The aluminum chl orohydrate i s di ssol ved i n 30 parts water and
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 7
Deodorant Lotion Clear (Roll-On)
Hydagen DE0
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Vi scontran HEC 30,000 PR 1% s ol uti on
Eumulgin RO 40
Perfume
Water
Formula No. F51-01
Deodorant Antiperspirant Lotion, Clear (Roll-On)
Hydagen DE0
Locron P
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Vi scontran HEC 30,000 PR 1% s ol uti on
Perfume
Eumulgin RO 40
Water
Formula No. F51-02
Antiperspirant Lotion
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Aluminum chlorohydrate-50% s ol uti on
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: Such a l o t i o n can be used, f o r example, wi th a pump
atomizer. The spray behavi or depends on the type o f
atomi zer. The f ormul ati on must then be changed by
i ncreasi ng the al cohol proporti on.
Formula No. F52-01
Antiperspirant Lotion (Without Alcohol)
C eti ol HE
Eumulgin 286
Aluminum chl orohydrate
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. F52-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
2. 0
3. 0
25.0
40.0
1. 2
0. 4
28.4
1. 5
30. 0
2. 0
30. 0
20.0
0. 2
1.2
15.1
%w/w
6. 0
20.0
30. 0
3. 0
41.0
%w/w
5. 0
2. 0
20.0
2. 0
71 . O
8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed
Eutanol G
Bacteri ci de
Perfume
E thyl or I sopropyl Al cohol
F i l l i ng: 50 parts acti ve i ngredi ent concentrate
Formula No . F71-01
50 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed
I Hydagen DE0
E thyl al cohol 96%
Perfume
I 1 P ropel l ant gas F ri gen 11/12 (40:60)
Formula No. 71-02
Antiperspirant Spray Aerosol-Packed
Eutanol G
Locron P
Aerosi l 200
Perfume
F i l l i ng: 10 parts s ol uti on
Formula No. 72-01
90 parts propel l ant 11/12 (65:35)
Deodorant, Antiperspirant Spray, Aerosol-Packed
Hydagen DE0
Myri tol 318
Locron P
Aerosi l 200
Perfume
%w/w
10.0
0. 1
1. 0
88.9
%W/ w
1. 5
28.2
0. 3
70.0
%w/w
50. 0
35.0
5. 0
10.0
o/ow/w
2.0
2. 0
3. 0
0. 1
0. 3
F i l l i ng: 8% (wei ght percentage) acti ve i ngredi ent s ol uti on
Note: The product must be shaken before use.
Formula No. F72-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
92% (wei ght percentage) propel l ant F ri gen 11/12 (35/65)
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 9
Deodorant Stick
9/ow/w
Lanette 0 3. 0
Eutanol G 27. 0
Comper 1 an 100 3. 0
S i egert S teari n L4 8. 0
Perfume 2. 0
Bacteri ci de 0. 2
E thyl al cohol 96% 51.8
1, 2- propyl ene gl ycol 2. 0
Sodium hydroxi de s ol uti on 38% 3. 0
P reparati on:
Lanette 0, Eutanol G, Comperlan 100, S i egert S teari n L4 and
the bacteri ci de are mel ted together on the water bath a t approx.
70C wi th most of the ethyl al cohol . P ropyl ene gl ycol and the
remai ni ng par t o f the al cohol are mixed together wi th the
sodium hydroxi de s ol uti on, al s o heated t o 70C and s t i r r e d i nt o
the al cohol i c f a t mel t. The compound i s then perfumed and cas t
i n moulds. I t s o l i di f i e s i n a few mi nutes and can be taken out
of the mould before i t cool s down compl etel y. It i s advi sabl e
t o work wi th a c er tai n excess o f al cohol . I n small batches,
t h i s i s about lo%, whi l st i n l arger ones, correspondi ngl y
l es s . Because o f the r i s k o f evaporati on, the f i ni s hed s t i c k
must be packed i n a s uf f i c i e nt l y t i g h t contai ner.
Note: Max. pH 11
Formula No. F41-01
Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol
S i eyert S teari n L2SM
Coinperlan 100
L anetre 22
I rgasan DP 300
1, 2- propyl ene gl ycol
Sodium hydroxi de s ol . 10%
Formula No. F41-04
w
8. 0
3.0
8.0
0. 5
65. 3
15. 2
Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol
sbw/w
S i egert S teari n L2SM 10.0
Comperl an 100 4.0
Lanette 22 10.0
I rgasan DP 300 0. 5
1,2-P ropylene gl ycol 56. 5
Sodium hydroxi de s ol . 10% 19. 0
Formula No. F41-05
P reparati on f or Formulas F41-04 and F41-05:
S i egert S teari n LPSM, Comperlan 100, Lanette 22, I rgasan
DP 300 are di ssol ved i n 40 parts propyl ene gl ycol a t 70C.
The sodium hydroxi de s ol uti on i s al s o heated t o 70C wi th the
r es t of the propyl ene gl ycol and s t i r r e d i nt o the mel t. I t i s
poured i nt o moulds a t 65C.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
10 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deodorant Stick
Translucent stick with soft rub.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
Sodium S tearate
Ethanol 96 %i g/ Al cohol (cosmeti c grade)
P ropylene G1 ycol
Bel s i 1 CM 040/Cyclomethi cone
Pigments, preservati ves, fragrances
6,00%
65,OO
24,80
3,OO
9 , s .
Mix a l l components and heat t o 60-70C, u n t i l a l l the sodium
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 186 AH
stearate has mel ted. F i l l a t 60C.
Deodorant Stick
Firm, slightly yellow stick with soft rub.
Materi al /CTFA-Index:
L anol i n Aci d 50,00%
Bel s i 1 SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Dimethyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si l oxane 36,OO
I sopropyl Myri s tate 5 , O O
Bel s i 1 DM 350/Di methi cone 4,OO
Bel s i 1 CM 040/Cycl omethi cone 5,OO
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances q.s.
Mel t a l l components together. F i l l whi l e hot.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 279 AH
Deodorant Stick
Firm, slightly yellow stick with little rub.
Materi a1 /CTFA I ndex
A: L anol i n Aci d 60,00%
Bel s i 1 SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si l oxane 30,OO
B el s i l DM 35/Dimethicone 5,OO
B: Bel s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone 5 , O O
Mel t A, mix i n B, fi l l whi l e hot.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks
F ormul ati on 357 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 11
Deodorant Stick Formulation
I ngredi ent:
P ropylene Gl ycol
Water
Phoenoxide STA-100 (Steareth- 100)
Sodi um S tearate
Si l wax WS-L
Phoenoxide STA-2 (S teareth- 2)
Tri ethanol ami ne
Wei qht%
67.2
19. 2
4. 4
4. 1
4. 0
0. 6
0. 5
Procedure:
1. Add water, propyl ene gl ycol and heat t o 75C.
2. Add other i ngredi ents i n order shown under agi tati on.
3 , Cool t o 60C.
4. Add fragrance and col or as desi red.
Si l wax WS-L i s a patented s i l i c one compound which lowers the
tack o f the s ti c k and provi des a s i l i c one f eel . I t does not
af f ec t the c l a r i t y .
Formula L-2418A
Deodorant Stick Formulation
I n gr_g d i_e.Kt;
P ropylene G1 ycol
Water
Phoenoxide STA-100 (Steareth- 100)
Sodium S tearate
Si l wax WD-F
Phoenoxide STA-2 (S teareth- 2)
Tri ethanol ami ne
Wei aht%
67.2
19. 2
4. 4
4. 1
4. 0
0. 6
0. 5
Procedure:
1. Add water, propyl ene gl ycol and heat t o 75C.
2. Add other i ngredi ents i n order shown under agi tati on
3. Cool t o 60C.
4. Add fragrance and col or as desi red.
Si l wax WD-F i s a patented f l uor i ne contai ni ng s i l i c one
compound which l owers the tack o f the s ti c k and provi des a
unique non- sti cky f eel . The formul ati on usi ng Si l wax WD-F i s
not cl ear.
Formula L-2375B
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, Inc.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Section II
Baby Products
12
Baby Products 13
Reci De :
Hostaceri n WO
Baby Cream
Soft
8. 00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 Sesqui i sostearate (and)
Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i 1
Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stear
P ermulgin 4200
Mi crocrystal 1 i ne Wax
Amerlate W
I sopropyl Lanol ate
Vase1 i ne
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Calendula o i l
Anti oxi dant
Zi nc oxi de
Tal c
Beeswax (and)
(and)
.ate
2. 00%
2. 00%
10.00%
15.00%
5. 00%
2.00%
q . s .
A1 1 antoi n
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
D-Panthenol
Water
P reservati ve
10.00%
5. 00%
0.20%
0.10%
0.25%
0.60%
39.65%
q . s .
Perfume 0.20%
Procedure:
I Mel t A at 8OC, then add 8. I 1 Heat C t o 8OC.
I 11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V .
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons for Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es :
Formula A VI /5804
14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Cream
White, s of t cream. S l i ghtl y greasy, but wel l absorbed.
Water-proof.
Materi al /CTFA-Index:
A: Hostaceri n WO/P olyglyceryl-2 S esqui i sostearate (and)
Beeswax (and) Mi neral O i l (and) Magnesium S tearate
(and) Aluminum S tearate 10.00%
Lunacera M/ Mi crowax 1 . oo
Mi neral O i l (hi gh vi s cos i ty) 10.00
I sopropyl Myri s tate 7.00
B: Gl yceri ne
Water
3.00
61.60
C: B el s i l CM 1000/Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol 5.00
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments 9,s.
W/O Cream
Mel t A a t approx. 8OC, heat B t o 8OC. S t i r A i nt o B wi th
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C more than 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 809 AH
good agi tati on. Add C a t approx. 45C.
Baby Lotion
High-viscosity lotion, easily spread.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Wacker-Belsi 1 DM 3SO/Dimethicone 35.00
Crodawachs GP 200/ S tearyl al cohol ( a. ) PEG S tearate 4. 00
B: Water 55.00
C : Zi nc Oxide 6.00
P reservati ve, fragrances, pigments 9 . s .
Heat both A and B t o 60-65C, s t i r B i nt o A, and then add C .
F ormul ati on 939 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 939 AH
Baby Products 15
Baby Shampoo
I naredi ents :
Phase A:
%
49.40
25.00
10.00
4.00
10.00
0.90
H20, Dei oni zed
Sodium Lauramphoacetate & Sod
Sodi um Laureth-3 S ul f ate
Hetai ne CLA (Canolamidopropyl
Hetsorb L-80-72% (PEG-80 Sorb
PEG-150 Di stearate
Phase 8:
P uaterni um-1 5
Phase C :
C i t r i c aci d
Speci f i cat i ons :
pH: 6.90
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 2000 cps
Procedure:
um Tri deceth S ul f ate
Betai ne)
tan Laurate)
0.20
0.50
l ) - I n a s tai nl es s s teel ket t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
mi xer, combine Phase A. Heat t o 70C whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l
uni form.
2) Cool t o 45C whi l e mi xi ng; add Phase B.
3) Adj ust t o desi red pH wi th Phase C.
Formula HS 92-61-3
Baby Bath
I naredi ents :
H20, Dei oni zed
PEG-80 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Sodi um Lauryl S ul f ate
PEG-30 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Hetai ne CLA (Canolamidopropyl Betai ne)
Al oe Vera Gel
Methyl Paraben
P ropyl Paraben
I mi dazol i di nyl Urea
Speci f i cati ons :
pH: 6.80
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 2300
%
58 .c
14.0
12.0
8.0
6.0
0. 5
0.25
0. 15
0.30
Procedure:
i mi dazol i di nyl urea, and heat t o 70C whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
Cool t o 30C and add remai ni ng i ngredi ent. Mi x wel l .
Formula HB 93-92
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
I n a s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, combine a l l i ngredi ents, except
16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Clear, Liquid
Texapon SBN
Cremogen camomile spec.
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 18%, medium vi scous
Formula No. R62-01
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Clear, Liquid
Texapon ASV
C eti ol HE
Cremogen, camomile spec.
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: WAS 15%, medium viscous
Formula No. R62-03
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Liquid
Dehyton AB30
Lamepon S
Nutr i l an L
Comperlan KM
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: WAS 19%, low vi scous
Formula No. R62-05
Care Bath for Babies and Children
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Cremogen camomi 1 e speci a1
C eti ol HE
C i t r i c aci d, 10% s ol .
Water
Note: WAS 9%
Formula No. R62-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
60. 0
2. 0
2. 0
36.0
%w/w
50. 0
5. 0
3.0
3. 0
1 . o
38.0
%w/w
40. 0
20.0
2. 0
3.0
1 . o
34.0
%w/w
22. 0
3.0
0. 7
3.0
2.0
0. 3
69. 0
Baby Products 17
Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly
Texapon SBN
Cuti na AGS
Cremogen camomile spec.
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS l a%, medium vi scous
Formula No. R63-01
Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly
Texapon K14S speci al
Euperlan PK 771
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
C eti ol HE
Cremogen camomile, spec. new
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol .
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. R63-03
Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly
Texapon ASV
Oehyton AB 30
Euperlan PK 810
Water
Note: WAS 19%
Formula No. R63-05
Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly
Texapon ASV
Oehyton K
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan LS
C i t r i c aci d 10% sol .
Water
Note: WAS 21%
Formula No. R63-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cos met i c Model Formulae
%w/w
60.0
3.0
2.5
2.5
32.0
%w/w
26.0
10.0
3.0
1 .o
3.0
3.0
0.4
53.6
%w/w
40.0
20.0
3.0
37.0
?&J&
40.0
20.0
3.0
2.0
4.0
31 .O
18 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream for Babies and Children O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 32
C eti ol LC
Myri tol 318
Calendula o i 1 CLR
I 1 Alumi num hydroxyal 1 antoi nate
Water
I11 Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Formula No. R11-01
Cream for Babies and Children O/W
I Dehymuls E
C eti ol V
Vasel i ne, whi te
Wool f at, anhydrous
Tal c
Zi nc oxi de
I 1 Water
Formula No. Rl l - 03
Cream for Babies and Children, Anhydrous
Dehymuls K
C eti ol SN
Myri tol 318
Vasel i ne, whi te
Ozokeri te
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne es ter CLR
Ri ce starch
Kaol i n
Zi nc oxi de
Formula No. Rl l - 05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
15.0
1.5
1. 5
10.0
10. 0
4 . 0
0. 2
54.8
3. 0
%w/w
7. 0
10.0
15. 0
5. 0
15.0
10.0
38.0
%w/w
30.0
10.0
10.0
20.0
3. 0
2. 0
10.0
10. 0
5.0
Baby Products 19
Cream for Babies and Children W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
Vasel i ne, whi te
Calendula o i 1 CLR
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Perfume
Water
I 1 Al l antoi n
Formula No. R11-07
Vulnerary Cream for Children W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
C eti ol V
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
Vasel i ne, whi te
Microwax HP 67
I I A1 umi num stearate
Ti tani um di oxi de
Kaol i n
Bismuth subgal l a t e
A1 l antoi n
Wheat starch
I 11 Water
Formula No. Rl l - 08
Baby Cream O/W
I Cuti na E24
Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
C eti ol 868
Calendula o i l CLR
C eti ol SN
I 1 Al l antoi n
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. R11-09
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
8. 0
8. 0
5. 0
15.0
3. 0
0. 2
5. 0
0. 5
0. 3
55. 0
w
10.0
5. 0
5. 0
5. 0
23.0
3. 0
0. 5
15.0
9. 0
1 . o
0. 2
10.0
13. 3
%w/w
5. 0
10. 0
2. 0
6. 0
6. 0
10. 0
3. 0
5. 0
0. 3
5. 0
47.7
20 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion for Babies and Children O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
Calendula o i l
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne ester CLR
C eti ol SN
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
Formula No. R21-01
Oil for Babies and Children
Eutanol G
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Myri tol 318
Calendula oi 1 CLR
Carrot o i l CLR
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Formula No. R31-01
Oil for Babies and Children
C eti ol SN
Myri tol 318
Calendula o i l CLR
Formula No. R31-02
$w/w
40. 0
56.0
4. 0
Vulnerary Stick for Babies and Children
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
Zinc oxi de
Tal c
Bismuth subgal l a t e
Formula No. R41-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
7. 0
1. 5
1. 5
10. 0
3. 0
6. 0
3. 0
5. 0
5. 0
58.0
30.0
10.0
10. 0
3. 0
1 . o
46. 0
P arts
60.0
15.0
7. 5
7. 5
5. 0
Baby Products 21
Shampoo for Babies and Children
Texapon ASV
Water
Note: WAS 15%, low vi scous
Formula No. R61-01
Shampoo for Babies and Children
Texapon SBN
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, medium vi scous
Formula No. R61-03
Shampoo for Babies and Children
Texapon N25/N40
Dehyton K
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 11%, viscous
Formula No. R61-05
Shampoo for Children, with Ampholyte, Pearly
Texapon ASV
Dehyton K
Euperlan PK 771
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 21%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. R61-07
Shampoo for Babies and Children, Pearly
Texapon ASV
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan F
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. R61-09
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%J v &
5 0 . 0
5 0 . 0
e
50.0
3. 0
47.0
!&y&
30.0
10.0
1. 5
58.5
60.0
5.0
5.0
2.5
27. 5
40.0
4 . 0
2. 0
2. 0
52. 0
22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear
Texapon ASV 70 speci al
Texapon N70
Comperlan OD
Sodium chl ori de
L eci thi n, water di s p.
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 15%
Formula No. R61-19
Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Vitamin
Comperlan OD
Vi tami n E/Covi tol 1100
Perfume
Texapon ASV
Dehyton G-SF
Sodi um chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 13%
%w/w
10. 0
10.0
1.0
4.0
0.5
74.5
2.0
0.5
0.2
30.0
5.5
3.0
58.8
P reparati on: Contents are mixed i n the order shown above wi thout
Formula No. R61-21
heat i ng .
Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Vitamin E
Comperlan KD 1.5
Vi tami n E/Covi to1 1100 0.5
Perfume 0.2
Texapon K14 S speci al 30.0
Dehyton G 10.0
Sodium chl ori de 2.0
Water 55.8
Note: WAS 13%
P reparati on: Contents are mixed i n the order shown above wi thout
Formula No. R61-23
heat i ng.
Baby Shampoo, Pearly
%w/w
Texapon SEN 39.3
Lamepon S 18.8
Nutr i l an L 5.0
Monomuls 90-L 12 1 . o
Lamesoft 156 5. 0
Hexapl ant Ri chter 1 . o
Perfume 0.3
Sodium chl ori de 1.2
Water 28.4
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 17%
P reparati on: I ngredi ents are mixed i n the order shown above.
Monomuls 90-L 12 i s easi er t o work i n when heated.
Formula No. R61-25
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Baby Products 23
Shampoo for Babies and Children, Pearly
aw/w
Texapon ASV 40.n
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan F
Sodi um chl o r i de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
-
2. 0
2. 0
3. 0
53.0
Formula No. R61-10
Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Ampholyte, Pearly
D/ow/w
Texapon ASV 35. 0
Dehyton G
Comperlan KD
Euperlan PK 771
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. R61-12
.~ .
10. 0
1 . o
2. 0
1. 5
50.0
Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear
s/ow/w
Comperlan KD 2. 0
Dehyton G 10. 0
Texapon K14S speci a1 25.0
Sodium chl ori de 2. 5
Water 60. 5
Note: WAS 12%
Formula No. R61-14
Shampoo for Babies and Children
Texapon ASV
Comperlan OD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. R61-16
Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear
Texapon ASV 70 speci al
Dehyton K
Comperlan OD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Viscous, WAS 12%
Formula No. R61-18
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
s/ow/w
50. 0
2. 0
3. 0
45.0
%w/w
10. 0
10. 0
2. 0
2.5
75. 5
Section Ill
Bath and Shower Products
24
Bath and Shower Products 25
Bath Oil Emulsion
I Eumulgin 05
Eumulgin 010
R i l ani t GMO
Eutanol G
P ar af f i n o i l
Perfume
I 1 Aerosi 1 200
Water
Formula No. L68-01
I Cuti na MO
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Eutanol G
Vi tami n o i 1 Biocorno
P ar af f i n o i l
I 1 Mi 1 k powder
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
Formula No. L68-02
Eumulgin 286 DE0
Turki sh red o i l
E thyl al cohol 9690
Perfume
Water
Bath Milk Emulsion
Bath Oil
omw/W
1. 5
1. 5
1.0
50.0
15.0
2. 0
1. 5
27. 5
6 . 0
4. 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
8. 0
4. 0
4.0
8 . 0
1. 0
0. 4
58. 6
20. 0
10.0
20.0
30. 0
20. 0
Note: Thi s formula belongs t o the bath o i l category al though no
r ef atti ng addi ti ves are used here. Such a formula, which i s
pr i mar i l y i ntended f o r perfuming the body, shoul d be designated
rather as a scent bath or perfumed bath.
Formula L67-12
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Thi s bath o i l di ssol ves compl etel y i n water.
26 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eumulgin 05
C eti ol A
Comperlan KD
Myr i tol 318
P ar af f i n o i l
Perfume
Formula No. K67-Dl
Dehydol LS2 DE0
Aethoxal 8
C eti ol A
Myr i tol 318
Perfume
Formula NO. L67-03
Bath Oil, Liquid
Bath Oil, Liquid
Bath Oil, Liquid
Dehydol LS2 DE0
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Formula No. L67-05
Bath Oil, Liquid
Aethoxal 8
Perfume
Formula No. L67-08
Bath Oil, Spreading
Dehydol LS2 DE0
Myr i tol 318
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Perfume
Formula No. L67-10
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
10. 0
40.0
10. 0
10.0
25. 0
5.0
%w/w
10. 0
40. 0
30. 0
15. 0
5. 0
=
10.0
85. 0
5. 0
%w/w
90. 0
10. 0
96w/w
5. 0
40. 0
50. 0
5. 0
Bath and Shower Products 27
Bubble-Bath
With pearl lustre effect, 18.2% active ingredient
Reci De:
A Hostapon CT paste
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Genapol PGM 1 i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Gl ycol Di stearate
Gel i ta Sol C
Hydro1 yzed Col 1 agen
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
D Sodium chl ori de
(and) Cocamide MEA
8.00%
20.00%
40.00%
10.00%
4.00%
3.00%
0.50%
10.70%
q. s .
q. s .
2.00%
1 .EO%
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n warmed B.
I1 One af ter another the components o f C are added t o I .
I11 If necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
F ormul ati on A I/2009
Bubble-Bath
Low price quality, clear, 10.0% active ingredient
ReciDe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
B Hostapur SAS 60
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Sodium C14-17 Sec. Al kyl S ul fonate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
C Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I One af t er another the components o f B are
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
F ormul ati on A I/2010
added t o A
25.00%
5.00%
0.50%
67.50%
q. s.
q.s.
2.00%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
28 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
With pearl lustre effect, 22.0% active ingredient
Bubble-Bath
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
B Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Perfume
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Genapol PGL
Gl ycol Di stearate (and) Cocamide MEA (and)
PPG-4 Deceth-4
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth- 3
C Sodium chl ori de
60. 00%
8.00%
1.50%
5.00%
5.00%
11.50%
q. s .
q. s .
6.00%
1 .OO%
2.00%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C.
F ormul ati on A I /3025
Special Bath
Clear, low foaming
Reci pe :
A Genagen CA-050
PEG-5 Cocami de
B Rosmarin bath
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Water
Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
30.00%
5.00%
5.00%
50.00%
10.00%
Procedure:
One af t er another the components o f B are added t o A.
F ormul ati on A I /7017
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Bath and Shower Products 29
Bubble Bath, Clear
Texapon N25
C eti ol HE
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume, water sol ubl e
Water
Note: Hi gh vi scous, WAS 10%
Formula No. L61-01
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid with Protein
Texapon N40
Lamepon S
Comperlan KD
Nutri l an L
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS
Formula No. L61-03
15%
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N40
Lamepon S
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 16%
Formula No. L61-04
%w/w
30. 0
2.0
2. 0
3. 0
1.0
62.0
3 0 . 0
20. 0
1 . o
3. 0
2. 0
2. 0
42.0
%w/w
30.0
20.0
1. 5
2.0
46.5
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
%w/w
Dehyton AB 30 10.0
Texapon MLS 60.0
Comperlan KD 4.0
Perfume, water- sol ubl e 3. 0
Water 23.0
Note: The addi ti on o f Dehyton AB 30 gi ves t h i s formul a a s l i ght
Medium vi scous, WAS 27%
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
deodori zi ng ef f ec t.
30 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 25%
Formula L61-31
%w/w
79. 0
3. 0
5. 0
2.0
0. 3
10.7
Bubble Bath, Clear, with Ethereal Oil
96w/w
Texapon N40 50.0
Eumulgin SML 20 5.0
Eucal yptus o i 1 2. 0
P i ne needle o i 1 2. 0
Water 41 .O
Note: WAS 19%
The quanti ty o f emul s i f i er must be vari ed i n accordance wi th the
type o f ethereal o i l used.
Formula L61-33
Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Aethoxal B
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: 13% WAS
Formula No. L61-35
Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Aethoxal B
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 19%
Formula No. L61-37
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
36.0
3. 0
0. 7
2.0
1 . o
0. 4
56.9
%w/w
57.0
3.0
0. 4
2. 0
1 . o
0. 4
36.2
Bath and Shower Products 31
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon I E S
Comperlan LS
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 34%
Formula No. L61-08
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Sulfopon 101 Spec.
Comperlan KD
Perfume , water - s o 1 ubl e
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 22%
Formula No. L61-11
Vitamin Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N25
Comperlan KM
Sol uvi t Ri chter
Perfume
Note: High vi scous, WAS 26%
Formula No. L61-14
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N40
Aethoxal B
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 17%
Formula No. L61-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
50.0
4.0
3.0
43.0
60.0
3.0
3.0
34.0
90.0
3.0
4.0
3.0
60.0
20.0
10. 0
2. 0
8 . 0
32 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon MLS
Comperlan LS
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 23%
Formula No. L61-17
Algae Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N40
C eti ol HE
Comperlan KD
Extrapon al gae super
Perfume Bri s e bl eu
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 23%
Formula No. L61-19
Bubble Bath
Texapon N25
C eti ol HE
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% s ol uti on
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
60.0
3. 0
10. 0
3.0
2. 0
22.0
%w/w
70. 0
10. 0
3.0
3. 0
3. 0
11 .o
%w/w
15. 0
2. 0
60.0
1 . o
22.0
Note: High vi scous bubbl e bath wi th an extremel y low WAS content
Formula No . L61-21
o f approx. 4%
Bubble Bath
Texapon N25
C eti ol HE
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% s ol uti on
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Note: High vi scous bubble bath havi ng a low WAS content of
Formula No. L61-22
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
approx. 6%
%w/w
20.0
2. 0
77.0
1 . o
Bath and Shower Products 33
Bubble Bath, Clear, in Gel Form
Texapon WW 99
Texapon N40
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: WAS 21%
Formula No. L61-24
- %W&
10. 0
40.0
2. 0
48.0
Bubble Bath, Clear, in Gel Form
%w/w
Dehyton AB30 20.0
Texapon N40 50. 0
P i ne perfume 4. 0
Water 26.0
Note: The perfume s peci f i ed i s s ui tabl e f or t h i s bubbl e bath
i n gel form. Other perfumes t o be used must be checked i n
par ti c ul ar wi th regard t o t he i r i nf l uence on the vi s cos i ty of
the gel preparati on. WAS2O%
Vigorous s t i r r i n g shoul d be avoided t o prevent a i r pockets form-
i ng
Bubble Bath, Opaque, in Gel Form
%w/W
Texapon N70 50. 0
Texapon TH 30. 0
Comperlan LS 3. 0
C eti ol HE 5. 0
Sodium chl ori de 3. 0
Water 7. 0
Note: The perfume s peci f i ed i s s ui tabl e f o r t h i s bubbl e bath i n
gel form. Other perfumes t o be used must be checked i n part-
i c ul ar wi th regard t o t he i r i nf l uence on the vi s cos i ty o f the
gel preparati on. WAS 53%
Formula No. L61-27
C oni f l or perfume 2. 0
Bubble Bath, Cloudy, Liquid
Texapon N 40
Comperlan KD
Antara 430
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 17%
Formula No. L61-29
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%!!Y.\",
5 0 . 0
3.0
1 . o
46.0
34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children
%w/w
Texapon WW 99 75. 0
Eutanol G 23.0
Perfume
Note: WAS 75%
Formula No. R64-01
2. 0
Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children
%w/ W
Texapon WW 99 60. 0
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Note: WAS 60%
Formula No. R64-02
38. 0
2. 0
Bath Oil for Babies and Children
% K W
Dehydol LS2 DE0 10. 0
Aethoxal B
C eti ol A
Myri tol 318
Perfume
Formula No. R65-01
40. 0
30. 0
15. 0
5. 0
Bath Oil for Babies and Children ~P~~
%YLW
Dehydol LS2 DE0 10. 0
Eutanol G 20. 0
I sopropyl myri s tate or pal mi tate 25. 0
Myri tol 318 40.0
Perfume 5. 0
Note: I t i s advi sabl e t o use perfume o i l s which have a good
compati bi l i ty wi th the mucous membranes.
Formula No. R65-02
Powder for Babies and Children
%W! !
Lanette 0 2. 0
Eutanol G 2. 0
Zi nc stearate 5. 0
Ri ce starch 51 . O
Kaol i n 20.0
Tal c 20. 0
Note: Mix a l l i ngredi ents, then gri nd and s i f t them mechani cal l y
t o obtai n f i ne par ti c l es .
Formula No. R81-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Bath and Shower Products 35
Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid
s/ow/w
Texapon N70 30. 0
Euperlan PK771 15. 0
Sodium chl ori de 4. 0
Perfume 1 . o
Water 50. 0
Note: High vi scous, WAS 25%
P reparati on: Sodium chl ori de must be di ssol ved i n the smal l est
quanti ty o f water possi bl e t o produce a saturated s al i ne
s ol uti on. The s ol uti on i s then s t i r r e d i n t o the undi l uted
Texapon N70 and s t i r r e d u n t i l the mi xture has a low vi s cos i ty.
The r es t o f the water, Euperlan PK771 and the perfume are then
added.
Formula No. L64-01
Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid
Texapon N40
Euperlan PK 771
Perfume
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 19%
Formula L64-04
Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid
Texapon N40
Texapon SG
C eti ol HE
Comperlan KD
Perfume
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 16%
Formula No. L64-06
%Wf w
50. 0
20.0
2. 0
28. 0
%Wl W
3 0 . 0
20. 0
6. 0
3. 0
1. 0
40. 0
Bubble Bath with Whey Additive, Pearly
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Sweet whey powder
Lamesoft 156
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Viscous, WAS 22%
P reparati on: The sweet whey powder i s suspended
added t o the Texapon N25, Lamepon S-TR, perfume
Lamesoft 156 and sodium chl ori de are added.
Formula No. L64-10
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
"/m
47.1
22. 0
10. 0
5. 0
0. 3
0. 6
15. 0
i n water and then
mi xture. F i nal l y,
36 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath in Powder Form
Texapon Z Hi ghl y Conc. Powder or Texaoon K 12
Comperl an 100
F i 11 i ngs :
Sodi um chl ori de
T artari c aci d o r c i t r i c aci d
Note: WAS 47%
Formula No. L81-01
Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid
Texapon Z Hi ghl y Conc. Powder
T artari c aci d
Sodi um bi carbonate
Urani n
Magnesi um stearate
Dry perfume
Note: WAS 22%
Formula No. L82-01
/ow/w
50. 0
2. 0
38. 0
10. 0
ww/w
25.0
32. 0
32. 0
0. 1
0. 9
10. 0
Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid
Texapon Z Hi ghl y Conc. Powder
T artari c aci d
Sodi um bi carbonate
Sodium s ul f ate
Urani n
Magnesi um stearate
Dry perfume
o/,w/w
10. 0
20. 5
32. 0
27 I 0
0. 1
0 . 4
10. 0
Note: WAS 9%
P reparati on: T artari c aci d, sodium bi carbonate and sodium
s ul f ate, part o f which i s mixed wi th the dry perfume, are
passed through a 1 mm mesh si eve and mixed wi th Texapon Hi ghl y
Conc. Powder. The urani n i s mixed thoroughl y wi th the magnesium
stearate i n the mortar and f i n a l l y added t o the above powder
mi xture. The powder can then be compressed.
Formula No. L82-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Bath and Shower Products 37
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
Ri ch emulsion contai ni ng al pha hydroxy aci d t o gentl y
exf ol i ate and rej uvenate the s ki n.
I ngredi ents:
1. Gri l l ocos e PS (Methyl Glucose
Sesqui stearate)
2. Behenyl Al cohol (Lanette 22)
3. Mi neral O i l 9NF
4. Octyl Octanoate (Tegosoft E)
5. Sodium Cetearyl S ul f ate (Lanette E)
6. Gl yceri ne
7. Xanthan Gum ( K el trol CG-T)
8. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
9. P atl ac LA ( L acti c Acid-88%)
10. Sodi um Hydroxi de (20% Sol n . )
11 . Gl ydant
12.Fraarance-Nature's Herbal #165-050
%w/w
3. 00
3.00
7. 50
7.50
0.10
3.00
0. 40
64.00
5.60
5. 00
0. 20
q. s .
F uncti on
E mul s i f i er
Thickener
Emoll i ent
Emol 1 i ent
E mul si fi er,
C1 eani ng
Humectant
Thickener
----
Hydroxy Aci d
pH Adj uster
P reservati ve
Odor
Compoukdi ng Procedure:
s ol uti on t o 3. 8. I n remai ni ng water, di s s ol ve i tem 7. Add i tems
5 and 6 and heat t o 80C. Separatel y heat i tems 1-4 t o 80C.
Add i tems 1-4 t o i tems 5-8 and mi x. Whi l e mi xi ng, cool t o 45C and
add i tems 11 and 12. A t 40C add prepared L acti c Aci d s ol uti on (pH
3. 8) and homogen i ze .
Ref. No. 119-7
Add P atl ac LA t o 10% water and adj us t pH w i t h Sodium Hydroxide
Facial Moisturizing Lotion
Elegant mi neral o i l and l anol i n based emul si on.
I naredi ents:
1. Ri tapro 165 (R. I . T. A. Blend)
2. Mi neral O i l
3. Lanol i n X- tra DE0 ( R . I . T . A . Lanol i n)
4. Ri tapro 100 ( R . I . T . A. Blend)
5. Dimethicone (Dow 225 F l ui d)
6. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
7. P ropylene Gl ycol
8. P ol yquta 3000 (P olyquaternium-I O)
9. Glvdant
! ! uw
4.00
5. 00
0.50
1.50
0.40
81.70
6.00
0. 50
0. 20
0.20
F uncti on
E mul s i f i er
E mol l i ent
Emol 1 i ent
Emu1 s i f i er,
Vi s cos i ty
Af ter Feel
Moi s tur i z ati on
Af ter Feel
P reservat i ve
Odor
----
10.Fragrance - L i ght Musk 169-119
Compounding Procedure:
Separatel y heat items 1-5 t o 70C. Add t h i s mi xture t o water
mi xture. Mi x t o uni form and cool t o 40C. Add preservati ve and
perfume .
Ref. No. 119-35
Di ssol ve P ol yquta 3000 i n water. Add i tem 7 and heat t o 70C.
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : S ki n Care Formulary
38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bubble Bath Oil, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N40
C eti ol HE
I sopropyl myri s tate or pal mi tate
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. L63-01
Bubble Bath Oil, Anhydrous, Clear, Liquid
Texapon WW 99
C eti ol HE
Eutanol G
Perfume
Note: WAS 70%
Formula No. L63 .05
Bubble Bath Oil, Anhydrous, Clear
C eti ol R
C eti ol HE
Texapon WW 99
Perfume oi l
Note: WAS 57%
Formula No. L63-08
Rosemary Oil Bubble Bath
Texapon TH
Lamepon ST40
Comperlan KD
Lamesoft LMG
Lamacit GML 20
O i 1 o f rosemary
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 28%
P reparati on:
Lamecit GML 20 and O i l o f rosemary are mixed and
Texapon TH, Lamepon ST40, Comperlan KD and Lamesoft
water i s then s ti r r ed i n.
Formula No. L63-14
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
"/ow/w
50. 0
20. 0
10. 0
3. 0
17. 0
"/ow/w
70. 0
15. 0
10. 0
5. 0
s/Qw/w
30.0
10.0
58. 0
2. 0
o/ow/w
27.0
11.3
1. 3
5. 2
13.0
8. 7
33.5
added t o
LMG. The
Bath and Shower Products 39
Care-Shower-Bath
Clear, 13.5% active ingredient
Genapol LRO 1 i qui d 30.00%
Recipe:
Sodium Laureth .Sui f ate
Hostapon KCG
Sodi um Cocoyl G1 utamate
Perfume
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
A1 1 antoi n
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Lau r e t h- 3
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservat i ve
Sodium chl ori de
5.00%
0.50%
2.00%
0.40%
52.60%
6.00%
2.00%
q . s .
q . s .
1.50%
Procedure:
I One af t er another the components o f B are added t o A .
I 1 Di ssol ve C i n warmed D,
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I.
I V One af t er another the components o f E are added t o I11
V I f necessary adj us t the pH.
V I F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th F.
Care-Shower-Bath
With silky lustre effect, 15.0% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Al l antoi n
Polymer J R 400
P olyquaternium-I O
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
D Hostapon KCG
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Perfume
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 Di s tearate (and) Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
D Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve the components o f A i n warmed 8.
I 1 One af t er another the components o f C are added
I11 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t vi s cos i ty wi th D.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Formulations A 1/ 8063 & A I /8082
0.40%
0 . 5 0 %
48.30%
30. 00%
5. 00%
0 . 5 0 %
2.00%
4.00%
q . s .
q . s .
6.00%
2 * 00%
1 .30%
t o I
40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Foam Bath with Gluadin AGP
Component: %
Texapon NSO 30.0
Dehyton K 10.0
P1 antaren 1200 10. 0
Lamesoft LMG 4. 0
Gl uadi n AGP 0. 5
Perfume q . s .
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 6,5
WAS: 17%
Anionic/Amphoteric surfactant content proporti on: 11,5%
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 6500
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 89/366/14
the product.
Stimulating, Clear Foam Bath with Balm Mint Extract
Component: 4
Texapon NSO 20. 0
Dehyton K 10.0
P1 antaren 1200 20.0
Cremogen Mel i sse 1 . o
C eti ol HE 5. 0
Perfume q. s .
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-Val ue: 6,5
WAS: 19%
Anionic/Amphoteric surfactant content: 8,6%
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 4000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
the product.
F ormul ati on No. : 89/366/1
Bubble Bath with Plantaren 2000 and Essential Oil
Component:
Bal m mi nt oi l
Eumulgin L
P l antaren 2000
Dehyton K
Anti 1 141 l i q u i d
Arl ypon F
Perfume
Water, preservati ve
pH-Val ue : 6,5
WAS: 18%
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may
F ormul ati on No. : 92/056/24
SOURCE: Hen k el KGaA: Model Formulae
the product.
%
5. 0
15.0
30.0
10.0
3.8
1. 5
9, s .
UD t o 100
i n f 1 uence the vi scosi t y o f
Bath and Shower Products 41
Cream Bubble Bath
Texapon N25
Comperlan KD
C eti ol A
Cuti na AGS
Perfume
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 27%
Formula No. L62-01
Cream Bubble Bath
Texapon N40
C eti ol HE
Euperlan PK 771
Perfume
Water
Note: Medi um vi scous, WAS 15%
Formula No. L62-03
Cream Bubble Bath For Tube Filling
Texapon N40
Texapon MLS
C eti ol H E
I sopropyl myri s tate or pal mi tate
Euperlan PK771
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 21%
Formula No. 162-04
86. 0
3. 0
3.0
6. 0
2. 0
50. 0
10. 0
5. 0
2. 0
33.0
%w/w
20. 0
20.0
5. 0
3. 0
20.0
4.0
3. 0
1 . o
24.0
Cream Bubble Bath for Tube Filling
%w/w
Texapon N70 40. 0
Comperlan OD 4. 0
Cuti na AGS 4.0
I sopropyl Myri s tate or P al mi tate 10.0
Sodium chl ori de 5. 0
Perfume 1 . o
Water 36.0
Note: WAS 32%
P reparati on: The substances are mixed and heated on the water
bath u n t i l a homogeneous mel t i s obtai ned. Af ter i t has cool ed
t o approx. 30C, the perfume i s added and the water that has
evaporated i s rep1 aced,
Formula No. L62-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cos met i c Model Formulae
42 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Floating Bath Oil
I nnredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1, Mi neral O i l #7 78.00 Emol 1 i ent
2. Ri tachol (Mi neral O i l (and) L anol i n 5. 00 S i l ky Feel
Al cohol )
L actyl ate)
3. P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl 4.00 S ubstanti ve
4. Ritawax ALA (R. I . T. A. Blend) 5.00 S ki n Feel
5. P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl Lactate) 7.00 Anti-Grease
6. Fragrance 1.00 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
Ref. No. 118-193
Combine i tems i n order u n t i l cl ear.
Blooming Bath Oil with Shebu
A non-greasy blooming bath o i l . Added unique moi s turi z ati on.
I nsredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1. White Mi neral O i l #7 68.00 Feel
2. PEG-400 Monolaurate 14.00 Condi ti oni ng
3. Shebu, Refi ned (Shea Butter) 2.00 Smoothness
4. P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl 6.50 Moi sture
5. P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl Lactate) 4.00 Moi sture
6. R i tol eth- 5 (Ol eth- 5) 2. 50 Bloom
7. Arl acel - C 1 . OO Bloom
8. Fragrance - Al pi ne 165-049 2.00 Odor
Compounding P rocedure:
t o 40C. Add fragrance, cool and package.
Ref. No. 118-192
L actyl ate)
Combine i tems 1-7 and heat t o 50C. Mi x u n t i l cl ear and cool
Shebu Floating Bath Oil
I .
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
An el egant bath o i l wi th t a l c - l i ke f eel .
I nqredi ents %w/w
' Mi neral O i l - 70 w t . 7 5 . 0 0
Shebu Refi ned (Shea Butter) 3.00
R i tachol (Mi neral O i 1 (and) Lanol i n 5. 00
P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl 4.00
Ritawax ALA (R. I . T. A. Blend) 5.00
P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl L actate) 7.00
Fragrance 1 .oo
Al cohol )
L actyl ate)
Compounding Procedure:
Ref. No. 117-55
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Shower/Bath Care
Blend a l l i ngredi ents and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Funct i on
Emol 1 i ent
Emol 1 i ent
S ki n Feel
Moi s tur i z-
ati on
Emoll i ent
Mi 1 dness
Odor
Bath and Shower Products 43
Gel After Bath Freshener
A cl ear gel bath freshener which l i q u i f i e s rapi dl y upon app-
l i c ati on. Formulated t o hel p soften, smooth and condi ti on ski n.
I naredi ents:
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
2. Acri tamer 941 (Carbomer 941)
3. Glydant
4. P ropylene Gl ycol
6. Laneto-50 (PEG-75 Lanol i n)
7. Fragrance
8. Tri ethanol ami ne 8 50%
9. Versene-EDTA
5. SD Al cohol - 40
%w/w
69.27
0.15
0.20
5.00
23.00
1 . oo
1 .oo
0.30
0. 08
F uncti on
Ge 1
P reservati ve
Moi sture
Refreshi ng
Smoothness
Odor
Neutral i za-
t i o n
C l ar i ty
_---
Compoundi ng Procedure:
hydrati on add i tems 3 - 9. Agi tate u n t i l res ul tant gel i s cl ear
and smooth.
Ref. No. 118-187
Add i tem 2 t o water wi th hi gh sheer agi tati on. Af ter complete
After Bath Splash
A hi ghl y emol l i ent, non- dryi ng a f t e r bath spl ash which
refreshes whi l e i t moi sturi zes. E xcel l ent af ter- f eel and perfume
sol ubi 1 i z ati on.
I ngredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1 . Ethanol -95 70.00 Refreshment
2. P atl ac NAL (Sodium Lactate) 5.00 Moi sture
3. P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl Lactate) 4.00 E mol l i ent
4. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl 2.00 Condi ti on-
L actyl ate) i ng
5. Perfume 2.70 Odor
6. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 16.30 ----
Compounding Procedure:
good agi tati on. F i l t e r i f desi red.
Ref. No. 118-188
SOURCE: R.1,T.A. Corp.: Shower/Bath Care
Combine i tems 1-5 and mix u n t i l cl ear. S l owl y add water wi th
44 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Bath Gel
I ngredi ents :
Phase A.
Sodi um I s ethi onate
Sod1 urn Lauryl S ul f ate (30%)
01 sod1 um Laureth-3 Sul fosucci nate
Water
Phase 8:
Acryl ates/ S teareth Stearate-50 Acryl ate Copolymer
(and) Laureth-3 (and) P ropylene Gl ycol ( A nti l 208)
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne F50)
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (and) Gl ycol Di s tearate (and)
Cocamide MEA (and) Cocamide DEA (Tego P earl 8-48)
Dimethicone Copolyol (Abi 1 88851)
G1 yceri n
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC)
Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Gl yci ne (and)
F ructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I nos i tol
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L acti c Aci d ( L ac ti l )
P ol ygl yceryl - 4 I s os tearate ( I s ol an G I 34)
Water
P reservat i ves
%w/w
3.00
15. 00
10. 00
25.00
1 . oo
11.75
2. 50
0. 75
3. 00
0. 75
1 . oo
1 . oo
25. 25
Q . S .
Procedure:
1 . Add i ngredi ents o f Phase A i n order, mi xi ng between addi ti ons
2 . Add the A nti l 208, heat t o 40C. Mi x wel l . High vi s cos i ty may
3. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents - mi xi ng wel l duri ng addi ti ons .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F ormul ati on
r es ul t. Avoid ai r entrapment.
Dispersible Bath Oil
A l uxury res i dual s ki n f eel deri ves from t h i s hi ghl y f rag-
ranced cl as s i c "blooming" bath o i l . Emulan O i l o f Mink
repl aci ng mi neral o i l w i l l enri ch i t f ur ther .
A . Emulan, L i ght F racti on
PEG-8 D i o l eate
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Perfume
W t . % CTFA
7. 5 Mink O i l
7. 5
20. 0
10. 0
8 . Penetek 38/40 55. 0 Mi neral O i l
Procedure:
conti nued s t i r r i ng.
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati on
Pre-mix Phase A a t RT, then s l owl y add mi neral o i l wi th
Bath and Shower Products 45
Liquid Bubble Bath
A hi gh l ather non- dryi ng bubbl e bath.
I ngredi ents:
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
2. Bi oterge AS-40 (Sodium C14-16 Ol ef i n
3 . P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl
4. Ri tami de C (Cocamide DEA)
S ul fonate)
L actyl ate)
5. Laneto-50 (PEG-75 L anol i n)
6. Fragrance
7. P reservati ve
%w/w
47.30
Funct i on
---
40.00 Lather
3.00 Moi sture
5.00 Lather
Densi ty
4.00 S i l ky Feel
0.50 Odor
0. 20 P reserva-
t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
Combine fragrance wi th i tem #4. Add i tem #3 t o the pre- mi x.
Combine water and i tem #2. Add pre-mix and agi tate u n t i l uni form.
Add i tem #5. Adj ust pH t o 6.8 i f necessary.
Ref. No . 118-189
Shebu Bubble Bath Powder
A hi gh- foami ng bath product w i t h a l uxuri ous af ter - f eel .
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
I ngredi ents:
Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate ( Dr y)
Sodium Bi carbonate
Sodium Sesquicarbonate
Sodium Lauryl S ul foacetate
P ati oni c SSL (Sodium S tearoyl L actyl ate)
Laneto AWS (PPG-12, PEG-50 L anol i n)
Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter)
Fragrance
P reservati ve
%? 6 F uncti on
18.00 Foam,
20.00
38.00
10.00
5.00
3.00
5.00
1.00
4 . s .
Cl eani ng
PH
Chel ati ng
Mi l dness
Moi sture,
S ki n Feel
mol 1 i ency
Odor
P reserva-
M i I d
t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
i ngredi ents and add to bl ender whi 1 e mi x i ng,
Ref. No. 117-60
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp.: Shower/Bath Care
Combine i ngredi ents 1-5 i n a ri bbon bl ender. Pre-mix other
46 Cosmetic und Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shower Gel
Has excel l ent foaming qual i ti es and a beauti f ul pearl f i ni s h.
I nqredi ents:
% by Weight
A . Water, Dei oni zed
78. 10
8. Carbopol 1342 0.30
C . S teol CS-230
Monateri c CAB
D. AMP-95
Flonac MS
S uttoci de A
15. 00
5.00
0. 10
0. 50
1 . oo
Procedure:
mix wel l . Change t o sweep-type mi xer. S l owl y add D. Mix u n t i l
smooth gel develops.
F ormul ati on PF-0319 suggested by P resperse
Add A t o main kettl e. Sl owl y add B; mix 1 hour, Next add C;
Aloe Vera Herbal Shower Gel
I ngredi ents:
P art A:
Dei oni zed water
Al oe vera gel concentrate 1O : l
Sodium l aureth s ul f ate, 27.5%
Cocami de betai ne
C i t r i c aci d t o pH 5-6
P art B:
BHT
Cocamide DEA
P art C :
Fragrance
P art D:
Bronopol
Herbal extract
% by Weight
32.43
4.00
50. 00
10. 00
a s s
0. 05
2.00
1 . oo
0. 02
0. 50
P rocedure:
Combine A; heat t o 40C wi th s t i r r i ng. Di ssol ve B wi th heat i f
necessary. Cool t o 40C; add C . Add BC t o A wi th s t i r r i ng. Cool
t o 30C; add D wi th s t i r r i ng. Thicken t o 5,000 t o 10,000 cps wi th
sodium chl ori de. Package at room temperature.
F ormul ati on PF-0234 suggested by Al oecorp.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Bath and Shower Products 47
Pearlescent Shower Gel
Component:
Texapon NSO
Texapon SB 3
P l antaren 2000
Dehyton K
Cosmedia Guar C 261 N
C eti ol HE
Euperlan PK 3000-AM
Lamesoft LMG
Arl ypon F
Anti 1 141 L
Colour, perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
pH-value: 6,5
WAS: 17%
Vi s cos i ty: 90,000
Hi nt: Kind and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence
F ormul ati on No.: 92/087/92
the product.
46
25. 0
10. 0
6. 0
10.0
0. 5
1 . o
5. 0
4. 0
1 .o
1. 5
q. s.
up t o 100
the vi s cos i ty o f
Pearlescent Shower Bath with Refattener
Component: %
P l antaren PS 10 15. 0
Dehyton K 10.0
Lamesoft LMG 4 . O
Euperlan PK 900 3 . O
Perfume o i l q . s .
Water, pres ervati ve up t o 100
pH value: 5,5
V i scosi t y mPas : 12000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 92/184/41
WAS: 12
the product.
Mild, Pearlescent Cleansing Lotion
Cornpone*
P l antaren PS 10
Lamequat L
Euperlan PK 900
Perfume o i l
NaCl
Water, pres ervati ve
pH val ue: 5,5
WAS: 10
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 3400
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No.: 92/184/43
the product.
ob
16.0
2. 0
3.0
9, s .
1. 5
up t o 100
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
48 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlescent Shower Gel
I naredi ents :
Phase A:
H20, Deionized
Standapol ES-2
Hetai ne CLA (Canolamidopropyl Betai ne)
C eti ol HE
Hetoxol L-2 (Laureth-2)
Hest E. G. D. S. (E.G.D.S.)
Hetoxol L-4 (Laureth-4)
C i t r i c Aci d
Phase 8:
Cropeptide W
Kathon CG
F . 0. W. Bl ue #1 (1% S ol . )
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 5.0-6.0
Vi s cos i ty: #3/12: 7500 cps
- %
46.38
40.00
7.00
6.00
0.50
0. 35
0.30
0.04
0.30
0.07
0. 06
P rocedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, combine Phase A. Heat t o 75C
2) Cool t o 45C, add Phase B. Mi x wel l .
Formula HSG 92-80
whi l e mi xi ng.
Bubble Bath
I naredi ents :
H20, Deionized
Sodium Laureth-3 S ul f ate
Oecyl Pol ygl ucose
Hetaine CLA (Canolamidopropyl Betai ne)
Hetamide RC (Cocamide DEA)
Hest GC-7 (PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate)
Kathon CG
C i t r i c Aci d
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 7.00
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 2000 cps
%
51.83
21 -00
12.00
10.00
4.00
1- 00
0.07
0.10
P rocedure:
mi xer, add i ngredi ents one a t a ti me i n order l i s ted. Mi x
unt i l uni form af t er each addi ti on.
Formula HB 93-108-2
SOURCE: Heterene, Inc.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
I n a s tai nl es s s teel tank equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
Bath and Shower Products 49
Protein and Honey Skin Bath
%w/w
A. Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxy E thyl
Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
Methylparaben
Dei oni zed Water
1. 00
0.20
32.60
B. May-Tein CT (TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Col l agen) 30.00
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
25.00
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic N-55 (Hydrolyzed
C ol l agen) 5. 00
Honey 1 . oo
C . Fragrance, col or
Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15)
D. Lemon j ui c e concentrate
C i t r i c Aci d t o pH 5. 5
q. s .
0.20
5.00
q. s .
Procedure:
1. Mix and heat phase A t o 65C. Mix u n t i l di ssol ved and homogen-
eous.
2. Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Mix t o i ncorporate.
3. Add Phase C and D. Mix t o i ncorporate.
P ropert i es :
Very mi l d, natural - type s ki n cl eanser and beauty bath. Anti -
dryi ng, a nt i - i r r i t a nt ef f ec ts are provi ded by the foaming protei n
(May-Tein CT). S ki n s ubs tanti vi ty i s hi gh because o f cati oni c
ef f ec ts o f quaterni zed col l agen and col l agen hydrol yzate.
For hand, face and general body cl eansi ng. Makes a del i ghtf ul ,
ref res hi ng bath foam.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #SW-3006
Emollient Bath Gelee
Mackol 70NS
Mackami de LLM
Mackanate EL
Mackanate WGD
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
Procedure:
1. Add Mackamide LLM t o Mackol 70NS.
2. Add the remaining components and heat t o 60C.
3. Blend u n t i l homogeneous. Avoi d aerati on.
4 . Adj ust pH t o 6. 5- 7. 0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
5. Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Weiaht , %
17.0
20. 0
20. 0
10. 0
q. s
100. 0
50 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shebu After Bath Splash
An emol l i ent af ter bath spl ash. Refreshment wi thout s ki n
dryness. E xtra moi s turi z ati on.
I nsredi ents:
1. Fragrance
2. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl
3, Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter)
5. P atl ac NAL (Sodium Lactate)
6. P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl Lactate)
7. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
L actyl ate)
4. A I coho1 -95
Compoundi n
Pre-mi x
agi tati on.
Ref. No . 1
A l ow a
%w/w
2.00
2.00
2.00
69.00
5. 00
5.00
15.00
F uncti on
Odor
Moi s turi z -
Emol 1 i ent
Refreshment
Moi s turi z i ng
S ki n Feel,
ati on
Mi l d
----
P rocedure:
i tems 1-3. Pre-mix i tems 4-6. Mix together wi th
Add i n water u n t i l cl ear.
7-46
Shebu After Bath Lotion
coho1 moi s turi z i na l oti on which has cool i ng, soothi ng
properti es . S ubstanti ve af ter- f eel .
I ngredi ents:
1. Acri tamer 941 13 5% (Carbomer 941)
2 . Di s t i 11 ed/Dei oni zed Water
3. P atl ac I L ( I s os tearyl Lactate)
4. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter)
5. Ri tapro 300 (R. I . T. A. Blend)
6. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl
L actyl ate)
7. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol )
8 . Myri s tyl Lactate
9. TEA @ 50%
10. A1 coho1 -95
11,Fragrance
%w/w
43. a6
37.50
1 .oo
1 .oo
0.50
1 .oo
0.50
1.00
0.64
12.00
1 .oo
F uncti on
Vi scosi ty,
Moi s tur i z-
E mol l i ent
Emu1 s i f i ca-
t i o n
Substanti v-
i t y
Feel
Smoothness
PH
Cool i ng
Odor
Feel
----
ati on
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tems 1 and 2 and heat t o 165F. Pre-mix i tems 3-8
and heat t o 165F. Add t o water. Pre-mix i tems 9-11 and add, then
cool t o l l OF . Adj ust pH t o 5.5.
SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . Corp.: Shower/Bath Care
Bath and Shower Products 51
With silky lustre effect, 19.0% active ingredient
Shower-Bath
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
B Genapol AMG
Maanesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 Di stearate (a
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Beta
D Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
40. 00%
13.00%
4. 00%
0.50%
32.30%
q . s .
q . s .
8.00%
d) Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
ne
22.00%
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C.
Formula A I /8038
Shower-Bath
Clear, 13.9% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
B Genapol SBE
D i sodi um Laureth Sul fosucci nate
Perfume
Water
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservat i ve
35.00%
8.00%
0.50%
52.00%
3.00%
4 . s .
4 , s .
C Sodium chl ori de 1.50%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
111 F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th C.
Formula A I /8609
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons for Cosmetics 8, T oi l etr i es
52 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower-Bath
With pearl lustre effect, 17.2% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Hostapon CT paste
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Genapol PGM f l us s i g
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Gl ycol Di stearate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
D Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n warmed B.
11 One af ter another the components o f C are added
111 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
Formula A I /8057
(and) Cocamide MEA
6.00%
24.00%
40.0D%
6.00%
6.00%
0.70%
13.50%
q . s .
9, s .
3.00%
0.80%
t o I
Shower-Bath
With silky lustre effect, 15.5% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Hostapon SCI
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
B Water
C Genapol ZRO l i q u i d
Sodi um Laureth S ul fate
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 Di stearate (and) Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservat i ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
D Sodium chl ori de
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n warmed B.
1 1 One af ter another the components of C are added
I11 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
Formula A I /8070
5.00%
20.00%
30.00%
4.00%
0.50%
32.40%
q. s.
q. s .
6.00%
2.10%
t o I.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Bath and Shower Products 53
Shower-Bath
Clear, 16.4% active ingredient
Recipe:
Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth Sul f ate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide
Hostapon KCG
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Perfume
A1 1 antoi n
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Sodium chl ori de
S ul f ate
35.00%
10.00%
5.00%
0.50%
0.40%
38.10%
8.00%
q. s.
4.s.
1.50%
1.50%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A .
I 1 Di ssol ve C i n warmed 8 .
111 S t i r 11 i nt o I.
IV One af ter another the components o f E are added t o I 1 1
V I f necessary adj ust the pH.
V I F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th F.
Formula A I/8048
Shower-Bath
Clear, 17.3% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
B Hostapon SCHC
Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Col l agen
Perfume
Water
Hostapon LEC
Laureth-3 Carboxyl i c Aci d
C NaOH (10% i n water)
D Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
E Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I One af t er another the components o f B are added
I 1 Adj ust the pH wi th C.
111 The components o f D are added t o 11.
I V F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th E.
Formula A I/8058
35.00%
5.00%
0.50%
42.00%
4.00%
2.70%
10.00%
q. s .
q. s .
0.80%
t o A.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons for Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
54 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower-Bath
With silky lustre effect, 24.0% active ingredient
Genapol LRO l i qui d 40.00%
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Recipe:
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 Di stearate (and) Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Perfume
Dyestuff sol u t i on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Polymer J R 400
P olyquaternium-I O
Water
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Sodium chl ori de
10.00%
4.00%
4.00%
0.50%
q . s .
q. s.
8.00%
0.50%
30.00%
2.00%
1 . OO%
P rocedure:
I One a f t e r another the components o f B are added t o A .
I 1 Di ssol ve C i n warmed D.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I, then add E .
IV I f necessary adj us t the pH.
V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th F.
Formula A 1/8066
Fitness-Shower-Bath
Clear, 14.2% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d 45.00%
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol AMG 15.00%
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
B Menthol 0.20%
Camphor 0.10%
Rosmari n bath 0.30%
C 1,2-P ropylen gl ycol 2.00%
D Water 32.90%
Horse chestnut extract 0.50%
Dyestuff sol u t i on q. s.
P reservati ve q . s .
Genapol L-3 2.00%
Laureth-3
E Sodium chl ori de 2.00%
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve B i n C . 11. Add the s ol uti on o f I t o A.
I 1 1 One a f t e r another the components of D are added t o 1 1 .
IV I f necessary adj us t the pH. V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty
Formula A I/8046
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
wi th E .
Bath and Shower Products 55
Shower-Bath 2 in 1
18.3% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Al l antoi n
Polymer J R 400
P ol yquaterni urn-IO
Hostapon S C I D
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi urn Laureth S ul f ate
Hostapon KCG
Sodi urn Cocoyl G1 utamate
Perfume
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 D i stearate (and) Sodi urn Laureth S ul f ate
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
D Sodium chl ori de
0 I 40%
0. 50%
4.00%
46 . 2 0%
30.00%
5. 00%
0. 50%
2. 00%
4 . 0 0%
q.s.
q. s .
5.00%
2.00%
0. 70%
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve the components o f A by warming s t i r r i n g i n B (60C
I 1 Cool down and add components of C a t 35C under s t i r r i ng.
I11 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
F ormul ati on A I/8061
56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath, Clear
Texapon N40
C eti ol HE
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 16%
Formula No. L65-01
Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N25
Texapon TH
Comperlan KM
Comperlan KD
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 21%
Formula No. L65-03
Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N40
Aethoxal B
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 11%
Formula No. L65-05
Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid
Texapon MLS
Texapon TH
Comperlan LS
C eti ol HE
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 26%
Formula No. L65-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
o/ow/w
50.0
3. 0
2. 0
3. 0
1.0
41 .O
%w/w
20. 0
20. 0
3. 0
5.0
1 . o
51 .O
96w/w
40.0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
44.0
%w/w
40.0
20.0
3.0
5.0
1. 5
1 .o
29. 5
Bath and Shower Products 57
Shower Bath, Clear
Texapon N40
Aethoxal B
Dehyton AB30
Comperlan KD
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 17%
Formula No. L65-09
Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
C i tr i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 16%
Formula No. L65-11
Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 16%
Formula No. L65-14
Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 23%
Formula No. L65-16
w
40.0
5. 0
10. 0
3. 0
1. 0
41 . O
s/ow/w
46.0
3. 0
1. 0
1 . o
0. 4
48.6
o w b j
18. 5
3. 0
2. 0
5. 0
1. 0
0. 6
69. 9
K W
27.0
3. 0
2. 3
1 . o
0. 6
66.1
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Modal Formulae
58 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath, Clear Refatting
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 22%
Formula No. L65-17
Sport Shower Bath Especi al l y Ski n Compati bl e
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperl an COD
Sodium chl ori de
Dehyton K
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 16%
Formula No. L65-19
Protein Shower Bath
Texapon N25
Lamepon S
Comperlan KD
Lamesoft LMG
Nutri l an L
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 23%
P reparati on: Mix the i ngredi ents i n the order shown above
Comperlan KD and Lamesoft LMG shoul d be worked i n whi l e a
l i t t l e heat i s appl i ed.
Formula No. L65-22
Shower Bath in Aerosol Form
Texapon ASV
Dehyton K
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 22%
F i l l i ng: 92 parts shower bath
Formula No. L65-26
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
8 parts F ri gen 12
%wy
27.0
2. 0
2. 0
5. 0
1. 0
0. 6
62. 4
Y Y W d
40.0
2. 0
1. 0
10. 0
2. 0
1 . o
44.0
%- WW
53. 6
16.7
2. 0
2. 0
5. 7
0. 4
0. 5
19.1
% U W
50. 0
10.0
4. 0
10. 0
1. 0
25.0
Bath and Shower Products 59
Shower Bath Gel
Shower gel based on natural sucrose es ters . Mi l dness whi l e
l eavi ng a smooth s ki n f eel .
I ngredi ents:
1. G r i l l oten LSE-87K S of t (Sucrose Cocoate)
2. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
3. Sodium Laureth-2 S ul f ate (Standapol ES-2)
4 . Disodium Cocamphodiacetate (Mackam 2C)
5. PEG-55 P ropylene Gl ycol Ol eate ( Anti 1
6. Ri tasynt I P ( R . I . T . A. Blend)
7. C i t r i c Acid (25% Sol n)
8. Fragrance
9. P reservati ve
141 B)
46w/w
4.00
38.95
44.00
8.00
1. 50
3. 00
0, 20
0.25
0.10
Funct i on
M i 1 dness
Lather
Lather
Vi s cos i ty
Opaci ty
pH Control
Odor
P reservati ve
----
Compounding Procedure:
mi xi ng. Combine i tems 3-6 w i t h remai ni ng water and heat t o 175F.
Add t o other pre-mix. Cool t o 120F. Add preservati ve and perfume.
Adj ust pH t o 5. 5- 6. 0 i f necesary.
Ref. No. 118-186
Combine i tem 1 wi th 30% o f the water. Heat t o 175F wi th
Shower/Bath Gel
Low eye i r r i t a t i o n formul ati on.
I nqredi ents:
1 . Gr i l l oten LSE 65K (Sucrose Cocoate)
2. P ati oni c 138C (Sodium Lauroyl L actyl ate)
3. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
4 . Sodium Laureth- 2- Sul fate (Standapol ES-2)
5. Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Mackam J )
6. Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol n. )
7. Fragrance
8. P reservat i ve
%w/w
2. 00
1 .80
40.90
45.00
8.00
2. 00
0.20
0.10
F uncti on
Mi l dness
Eye M i l dness
Lather
Lather
Vi s cos i ty
Control
Odor
P reservati ve
_ _ _ - _
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tems 1 and 2 wi th 25% o f the water. Mix u n t i l uni -
form. Combine i tems 4 and 5 and mix u n t i l uni form. Add f i r s t
pre-mix t o second wi th agi tati on. Add i tems 7 and 8 and adj us t
vi s cos i ty as desi red wi th i tem 6.
Ref. No. 118-185
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Shower/Bath Care
60 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower/Bath Gel
Non-drying formul ati on designed t o cl ean and l eave s ki n
moi sturi zed.
I ngredi ents:
1. G r i l l oten LSE-87K (Sucrose Cocoate)
2. R i ta EGDS (Gl ycol Di stearate)
3. P ati oni c 138C (Sodium Lauroyl L actyl ate)
4. PEG-55 P ropylene Gl ycol Ol eate ( Anti 1
5. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
6. Sodium Laureth- 2- Sul fate (Standapol ES-2)
7. Promois ECP (Col l agen)
8. C i t r i c Acid 13 50%
9. Fragrance
10. P reservati ve
1418)
%w/w
3. 00
0.50
2. 50
1- 00
40.60
51 - 0 0
1 .oo
0.10
0.20
0.10
F uncti on
Mi 1 dness
Opaci ty
Mi l dness
Feel
Lather
Condi ti oni ng
pH Control
Odor
P reservati ve
----
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tems 1,3,5 and 6 and heat t o 160F w i t h agi tati on.
Combine i tems 2 and 4 and mix a t 160F. Add t o batch wi th mi xi ng.
Cool t o 12OF and add i tems 9 and 10. Cool t o l l OF and add i tem
7. Adj ust pH t o 6.0-6.5 wi th i tem 8.
Ref. No. 118-183
Silky Feel Shower Gel
Hi ah l ather shower ael base wi th added moi s turi z ati on. S i l ky
s ki n f eel .
I naredi ents: %w/w
1. Sodium Laureth- 3- Sul fate (Standapol ES-3) 53.00
2. Ri tami de C (Cocamide DEA) 4.00
3. Ritawax-15 (Laneth-15) 3. 00
4. P ati oni c I S L (Na I sostearoyl L actyl ate) 3.00
5. Ri tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 Di stearate) 0.50
6. Methylparaben 0.15
7. R i ta PEO-2 (PEG-9M) 0.25
8. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 35.65
9. Fragrance 0. 40
10. Kathon CG 0.05
Funct i on
Cl eani ng
Lather
Moi sture
Moi sture
Vi s cos i ty
P reservat
S i l ky Fee
Odor
P reservat
----
ve
ve
Compounding Procedure:
Heat i tems 1-6 t o 165F. S l owl y add i tem 7 t o water, mix u n t i l
di ssol ved. Heat t o 165F. Add t o i tems 1-6 and mix u n t i l uni form.
Add fragrance and preservati ve af ter cool i ng t o 120F.
Ref. No. 116-143
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp.: Shower/Bath Care
Bath and Shower Products 61
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Oehyton K
Cuti na EGMS
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. L66-23
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Texapon MLS
Comperlan COO
C eti ol HE
Euperl an MPK850
Sodiuum chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 20%
Formula No. L66-25
Shower Bath. Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Texapon TH
Comperl an OD
C eti ol HE
Euperlan MPK 850
Water
Note: WAS 22%
Formula No. L66-27
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Texapon MG
Comperlan 00
Aethoxal B
Euperlan MPK 850
Water
Note: V i s e o u s , WAS 15%
Formula No. L66-28
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
96w/w
35. 0
15. 0
2.0
1 . o
47. 0
%w/w
25. 0
25. 0
3.0
2. 0
8. 0
2. 0
35. 0
%&&
20. 0
20.0
4.0
2. 0
8. 0
46.0
20. 0
15. 0
3. 0
2. 0
8. 0
52. 0
62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath, Pearly
Texapon N25
Texapon EVR
Comperlan K O
Perfume
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 19%
Formula No. L66-01
~~ Shower Bath, Pearly
Texapon N40
Texapon EVR
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Water
Note: High vi scous, WAS 19%
Formula No. L66-03
Shower Bath, Pearly for Tube Filling
Texapon N40
Cuti na AGS
Comperlan 00
Comperlan K D
C eti ol A
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 23%
Formula No. L66-05
~~~ Shower Bath, Pearly
Texapon K14S speci a1
Euperl an PK810
Comperlan K O
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. 66-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
20. 0
30.0
2. 0
1 . o
47.0
%w/w
20.0
30.0
2.0
5. 0
1 . o
42.0
%w/w
50. 0
7. 0
5. 0
4. 0
5. 0
2. 0
27.0
%w/w
30.0
10. 0
3. 0
0. 5
1 . o
0. 5
5 5 . 0
Bath and Shower Products 63
Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting
Texapon K14S speci a1
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 18%
Formula No. L66-09
Shower Bath, Pearly
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Sodium chl ori de
Euperl an PK810
Comperlan KD
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. L66-11
Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting
Texapon K14S 70 spec
Sodium chl ori de
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol u
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. L66-12
a1
i on
Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Sodium chl ori de
Euperlan PK810
Comperlan KD
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. L66-14
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggest ed F ormul ati ons
40. 0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
1 . o
0. 4
42. 6
12.0
2. 0
10. 0
3. 0
1 . o
0. 6
71. 4
@!y&
12.0
2. 0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
1 . o
0. 6
68.4
19. 0
2. 0
10.0
2. 0
1 . o
0. 6
65.4
64 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Sodium chl ori de
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i tr i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 20%
Formula No. L66-15
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Dehyton G
Euperlan PK 771
Comperlan COD
Sodium chl ori de
C eti ol HE
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 18%
Formula No. L66-17
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Dehyton K
Euperlan PK771
Comperl an COD
Sodium chl ori de
C eti ol HE
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 18%
Formula No. L66-19
Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Dehyton AB30
Euperl an PK810
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 20%
Formula No. L66-20
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
%w/w
19.0
2.0
10.0
2.0
5.0
1 . o
0.6
60.4
%w/w
40.0
10.0
3.0
2.0
0. 5
2.0
1 . o
2.0
39.5
%w/w
40.0
10.0
3.0
2.0
0.5
2.0
1.0
41 . 5
%w/w
38.0
19.0
5. 0
0. 5
3 7 . 5
Bath and Shower Products 65
Shower Bath & Emulsion "Two in One"
Component:
%
I Eumulgin B 2 1 .o
Eutanol G 3.0
Lamecreme DGE 18 4. 0
I 1 Lytron 631 2. 0
Water, pres ervati ve up t o 100
I 1 1 P l antaren PS 10 40.0
I V Perfume 0. 5
V i scosi t y mPas: 20000
WAS: 24,5
pH-value: 5,6
Procedure:
Mel t components under I a t 70-80C and mix homogeneously. Heat
phase I 1 t o 75C, add t o I and s t i r a t temperature f o r 5
minutes. Continue s t i r r i ng and cool down t o 60C. Add phase 1 1 1
a t room temperature t o the premixed emulsion. S t i r homogeneously.
A t temperature below 40C add perfume. Adj ust pH t o and control
vi s cos i ty. I f necessary f i n a l l y adj us t wi th NaCl and de-aerate.
F ormul ati on No.: 92/135/49
Pearly Sheen Shower Bath Two-in-One
ComDonent:
Texapon ASV 70 spez.
P1 antaren 1200
Euperlan PK 3000 OK
Lamequat L
Panthenol USP
Water, pres ervati ve
pH-Val ue: 6,5
F ormul ati on No.: 91/352/8
Pearlescent Foam Bath with Refattener
Component:
P l antaren PS 10
12.4
4. 0
4. 0
4. 0
1. 0
up t o 100
%
22.0
15. 0
0. 5
2.0
5 . 0
q.s.
up t o 100
Dehyton K
Cosmedia Guar C 261
C eti ol HE
Euperlan PK 3000-OK
Perfume o i l
Water, pres ervati ve
pH-value: 5 , 5
WAS: 18
V i scosi t y mPas : approx. : 45,000
Hi nt: Kind and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty
o f the product.
F ormul ati on No.: 92/184/12
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulatiom
Shower Bath 2-in-1, Shower & Cream
C o mo o n m
Texapon NSO
Dehyton K
P1 antaren 2000
Nutri l an 1-50
Cosmedia Guar C261 Quel l ung/Swel l i ng
Euperlan PK 3000 AM
L ytron 631
Arl ypon F
Water, preservati ve
V i scosi ty/ approx. (20C Brookf i e l d) : 13000
pH-Val ue/approx: 5,5
WAS/approx. : 14
Formul a t i on No. : g3/157/6
Shower Bath 2-in-1, Shower & Cream
Component:
Texapon NSO
Dehyton K
P l antaren 2000
Euperlan PK 3000 AM
Cosmedia Guar C261 Quel l ung/Swel l i ng
C eti ol HE
L ytron 631
Arl ypon F
Gl yceri n 86%
Water, preservati ve
V i scosi t y , approx . (20C Brookf i e l d) : 15000
F ormul ati on No. : 93/157/9
Shower Bath & Emulsion Two-in-One
Component:
I Cuti na KD 16
Monomuls 90-L 12
C eti ol 868
I 1 Texapon N 28
Water
I11 P l antaren 1200
Perfume
C eti ol HE
I V Dehyton K
L ytron 621
P reservati ves
C i t r i c aci d t o adj ust pH
pH: 5-6
Vi s cos i ty 25C mPas: 12500
WAS: 44
F ormul ati on No. : 22/8
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
%
20.0
20.0
5. 0
1. 0
20.0
5. 0
2.0
0. 6
UP t o 100
%
20.0
20.0
5.0
3. 0
20.2
0. 2
1. 0
0. 6
5. 0
up t o 100
oh
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
40.0
20.0
0. 5
2. 0
2. 0
2. 0
up t o 100
Bath and Shower Products 67
Shower Gel
Clear, high-viscosity gel with regreasing effect.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Genapol LRO/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Dehyton A0 3O/Coco-Betaine
Aethoxal B/PPG-5 Laureth-5
Wacker- Bel si l DMC 6038/Dimethicone Copolyol
Comperf an KD/Cocami de DEA
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Mix a l l i ngredi ents wel l .
F ormul ati on 895 AH
Shower Gel
Clear, thin gel.
Materi a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
Hoe S 3267/Cocarnidopropyl Betai ne
Wasser dest. /Water
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate
Bel s i l DMC 6032/Dirnethicone Copolyol Acetate
Ammonium Chl ori de
P reservati ves, fragrances
35.00%
10.00
5 . 0 0
5.00
3.00
42 . OO
9 , s .
22.50%
53.50
22.50
1 . oo
0 . 5 0
q . s .
Di ssol ve Hoe S 3267 thoroughl y i n water. Add Texapon NA and
Bel s i l DMC 6032. Homogenise the mi xture. Regulate the vi s cos i ty
wi th the ammonium chl ori de.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 155 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
68 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Gel & Body Lotion
Component:
Texapon NSO
Dehyton PK
Euperlan PO
Comper 1 an COO
C eti ol HE
Cosmedia Guar C261
Water, preservati ve
NaCl
pH-value: 5,5-6,0
Vi s cos i ty mPas Brookfi el d, RVT, 2OC: 12800
F ormul ati on No.: C-FB-308/01a
Pearlescent Foam Bath
%
40.0
8. 0
2. 0
1 . o
2. 0
0. 2
2.0
up t o 100
ss
P l antaren PS 10 22. 0
Dehyton K 15. 0
Cosmedia Guar C 261 0. 5
C eti ol HE 2 .o
Euperlan PK 3000-OK 5 . o
Perfume o i l q . s .
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-Val ue: 5 , 5
WAS: 18
Vi s cos i ty mPas: approx: 45,000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
Formul a t i on No.
the product.
Conmponent:
Texapon K 14 S
P1 antaren 2000
Dehyt.on K
C eti ol HE
~.
: 92/184/12
Foam Bath Concentrate
70 spez.
%
25.0
20. 0
20.0
5. 0
2. 0 Nutri l an 1-50 ~.
Eumulgin HRE 60 5. 0
C i t r i c aci d ( s ol .50%)% 0.5
Perfume q . s .
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 6 . 5
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 5600
Note: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty of
F ormul ati on No. : 92-174-17
the product.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
Bath and Shower Products 69
Skin Conditioning Shower Gelee
Smooth, moi s turi z i ng shower gel ee. S ubstanti ve moi s turi z i ng
ef f ec t. S ki n condi ti oner.
I ngredi ents:
1. Sodi um Laureth-2-Sul f ate
2. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
3. Ritamide C (Cocamide DEA)
4. Ritawax 15 (Laneth-15)
5. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl
6. Ri tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 Di stearate)
7. Methylparaben
8. Fragrance
9. Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol n. )
10. P atl ac LA @ 44% ( L acti c Aci d)
L actyl ate)
?6&! ! y
53.00
33.65
4.00
3.00
3. 00
0. 50
0.15
1 .oo
1 .oo
0. 70
F uncti on
Lather
Lather
Condi ti oni ng
Moi sture
Vi s cos i ty
P reservati ve
Odor
V i scosi t y
pH Adj ust-
----
ment
Compounding P rocedure:
fragrance. Adj ust pH and vi s cos i ty as desi red.
Ref. No. 118-190
Heat i tems 1-7 t o 165F w i t h agi tati on. Cool t o 120F and add
Shebu Shower Gelee
A bath gelee wi th a smooth unique f eel .
I nnredi ents:
1. Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (ES-3)
2. Ritamide C (Cocamide DEA)
3. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter)
4. P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl
5. P reservati ve
6. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
7. Fragrance
8. R i ta PEO-1 (PEG-5M)
9. Ri tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 DS)
ComDoundina Procedure:
L actyl ate)
%w/w
53.00
4.00
3.00
3.00
0.30
35.85
0.25
0.10
0.50
F uncti on
Clean/Lather
Lather
Boost e r
Moi s tur i z i ng
Moi sture/
P reservati ve
Odor
S1 i p/Thi ck-
Thickener
Mi l d
----
ener
Heat i ngredi ents 1-6 t o 65C wi th agi tati on. Cool t o 43C and
add perfume. Adj ust vi s cos i ty w i t h Sodium Chl ori de and pH wi th
l a c t i c aci d.
Ref. No. 117-538
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Shower/Bath Care
70 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vitamin Bath Oil
Aethoxal B
V i tami n o i 1 Bi ocorno
Perfume
Formula No. L67-13
Aethoxal B
Dehydol LS2 DE0
C eti ol A
Myri tol 318
O i l o f rosemary
Formula No. L67-15
Dehydol LS2 DE0
C eti ol R
C eti ol A
C eti ol 868
Perfume o i l
Formula No. L67-18
Lavender o i l
Lamaci t GML20
Water
Herbal Bath Oil
Bath Oil
Lavender Bath Oil
%w/W
90. 0
5. 0
5. 0
%w/w
52. 0
10.0
15. 0
20. 0
3. 0
10. 0
30. 0
15. 0
40. 0
5. 0
w
37. 0
46. 0
17. 0
P reparati on: Mi x lavender o i l and Lamacit GML-20. Add water
sl owl y.
Formula No. L67-21
Lemon Balm Bath Oil
Lemon balm o i l
Lamacit GML 20
Water
Formula No. L67-22
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
2 4 . 4
56.9
18. 7
Section IV
Beauty Aids
71
72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ajinomoto Moisturizing Foundation with Ajidew, Eldew,
Marine-Dew and Amihope
I naredi ents/ Trade Name: % by Weight
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate
C el l ul ose Gum
T r i sodi um EDTA
Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50
T r i ethanol ami ne 85%
P art 8:
Methylparaben (and) Butyl paraben (and) Ethyl paraben
S teari c Aci d
P ropylene Gl ycol S tearate SE
P ol ysorbate 60
Cetearyl Octanoate
Cetyl Al cohol
S orbi tan S tearate
Dimethicone/Dow Corni ng 200 (350cs)
Di (chol s ter yl , behenyl , octyl dodecyl )
Phenoxyethanol
P art C :
P ropylene Gl ycol
I r on Oxides and Tal c
T i tani um Di oxi de
Lauroyl Lysi ne/Ami hope-LL
P art D:
P ar ti al l y Deacetyl ated C hi ti n (1% Solution)/Marine-Dew
(and) P ropylparaben
N- l auroyl - L- gl utamati c aci d ester/El dew CL-301
61.15
0 I 70
0. 15
0. 10
1- 00
0. 60
0. 30
2. 50
2. 00
1. 70
6. 00
2. 00
0. 60
0.50
5. 00
0. 60
6. 00
2. 00
5.00
0. 10
2 * 00
Procedure:
Di sperse Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate and Cel l ul ose Gum i n
dei oni zed water. Heat t o 80 degrees C . Add remai ni ng P art A
i ngredi ents. Mix wel l . Heat P art 8 t o 80 degrees C . Add P art B
t o P art A. Mix a t 80 degrees C f o r 15 mi nutes. Homogenize P art
C . Add t o the batch. Mix u n t i l uni form. Cool t o 40 degrees C .
Add P art D. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 35 degrees C .
Appearance: Beige cream
pH: 7 . 4 0 t o 8. 00
Vi s cos i ty: 20,000-25,000 cps (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25C)
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beau@ Aids 73
Alcohol-Free Cologne
This sprayable product is light, elegant and will not dry
or sting the skin.
Inaredi ent (CTFA)
Part A :
Deionized Water
DMDM Hydantoin ( 1 )
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
Part B:
Cyclomethicone (2)
Pemulen TR-2
Part C:
Fragrance, Novi 1 1 e #31563
Oleth-10 (3)
Part D:
Triethanolamine (99%)
Part E:
Di sodi u m EDTA
Wei aht% Function
92.88 Di 1 uent
0.30 Preservative
0.10 Preservat i ve
0.05 Preservative
4.00 Lubricant
0.15 Emulsifier/
Stabi 1 i zer
2.00
0.30 P.S. Reduction
0.12 Neutralizing
Agent
0.10 Chelating Agent
and Viscosity
Adjustment
Preparation:
1 . Combine Part A ingredients in a vessel which will contain
the entire formulation. Mix until parabens have dissolved.
2. Slurry Pemulen in cyclomethicone. Disrupt any soft agglom-
erates o f Pemulen. With moderate agitation, add Part B to
Part A.
3. Blend Part C ingredients and add to Parts A/B. Continue
mixing for 10-20 minutes to allow resin to swell. Add Part D
and mix vigorously to produce a smooth emulsion.
down to 600-800 cps.
4. Mix Part E into emulsion incrementally to adjust viscosity
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO007
74 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Cologne
Thi s sprayabl e product i s l i ght , el egant and w i l l not s ti ng
the s ki n.
I ns redi ent (CTFA):
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
DMDM Hydantoin ( 1)
Methylparaben ( 2 )
P ropylparaben ( 2)
P art B:
Cyclomethicone (3)
Fragrance, Novi l l e #31337
I s os tearyl Benzoate ( 4 )
Oleth-10 ( 5)
Pemulen TR-2 (6)
P art C :
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
Di sodi um EDTA
(1) Glydant (LonzB)
( 2 ) (Protameen Chemicals)
( 3 ) 245 F l ui d (Dow Corning)
( 4 ) F i ns ol v SB (F i netex)
Wei aht%
9 2 - 3 8
0.30
0.10
0. 05
4.00
2. 00
0.50
0. 30
0.15
0 . 1 2
0.10
Funct i on
Di 1 uent
P reservati ve
P reservati ve
P reservati ve
Lubri cant
Fragrance F i xer
P art i c l e S i ze
Reduction
E mul s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i z er
Neutral i zi ng
Agent
Chel ati ng Agent
(5) P rocol OA-10 (Protameen Chemicals), B r i j 96 ( I C I )
(6) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
P reparati on :
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Mix u n t i l parabens have di ssol ved.
2. Blend P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Pemulen should
be s l ur r i ed i n t h i s phase. Di srupt any s of t agglomerates o f
the res i n.
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B o P art A. Mix f o r 10-20
minutes t o al l ow res i n t o s wel l . Add P art C and mix vi gor-
ousl y t o produce a smooth emulsion.
4. Mix P art D i nt o emulsion i ncremental y t o adj ust vi s cos i ty
downward t o 600-900 cps.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO013
BeautyAids 75
All-Over AHA Moisturizer
#29-0805-A
An al l - over face and body l o t i o n us i ng natural al pha hydroxy
aci ds from f r u i t s t o gentl y exf ol i ate and r etextur i z e the s ki n
f o r smoother, younger-looking s ki n. To hel p counteract the
dryness that may r es ul t f r om s ki n s ti mul ati on, Aj i dew N-50 i s
added, to normal i ze the s ki n' s outer l ayer and provi de optimum
moi s tur i zat i on.
Ingred-i ent/T_rade N-am;
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Magnesium Aluminum Si l i cate/Veegum U l t r a
Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l
Disodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene Na2
Methylparaben
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Gl yceri n
Sodi um Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) S orbi tol
(and) P roline/P rodew 300
" Q . . b-wsmt.
66. 45
1 . oo
0. 30
0. 05
0. 20
3. 00
2. 00
3.00
P art B:
S teari c Acid/Emersol 132 1 . oo
Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100 S tearate/ Arl acel 165 1 . oo
Gl yceryl Stearate/Lexemul 55G 3. 00
Di octyl Maleate/Bernel E ster COM 5.00
C12-15 Al kyl Benzoate/Finsolv TN 4.00
Dimethicone/Dow Cornino 200, 350 cs . 0.20
2. 00 Cetyl Al cohol / Lanette 76
P ropylparaben
P art C :
Tri ethanol ami ne 99%
P art D:
D i azo1 i di nyl Urea/Germal
Lemon P assion F r ui t Comp
Procedure:
75C. Add remai ni ng P art
Di sperse Veegum U1 t r a
I 1
ex P rovi tal
0. 10
0. 40
0. 30
5.00
and K el tr ol i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o
i ngredi ents . Mi x unt i l uni form. Heat
P art B t o 75C. Add P art B t o P art A whi l e mi xi ng wi th good agi t-
ati on. Add P art C . Mi x f o r 30 minutes unt i l compl etel y homogen-
eous. Cool t o 40C. Add P art D. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o
35c.
Appearance: Opaque, whi te 1 o t i on
Vi s cos i ty: 4,000-9,000 (RVT #5 I3 10 rpm I3 25C)
pH: 3. 40- 3. 80
NOTE: May i nf r i nge on an exi s ti ng patent. P lease cons ul t your
1 egal advi s or,
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA I nc: Suggested F ormul ati on #29-0805-A
76 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
All-Over AHA Moisturizer
An al l - over face and body l oti on usi ng natural al pha hydroxy
aci ds from f r u i t s t o gentl y exf ol i ate and retexturi z e the s ki n
f or smoother, younger-looking s ki n. To hel p counteract the
dryness that may r es ul t from s ki n sti mul ati on, Aj i dew N-50 i s
added t o normal i ze the s ki n' s outer l ayer and provi de optimum
moi s t ur i z ati on.
I naredi ent/ Trade Name:
P art A :
Dei oni zed Water
Magnesium Aluminum Si l i cate/Veegum U l tr a
Xanthan Gum/Keltrol
Di sodi um EDTA/Hamp-Ene Na2
Methylparaben
P ropylene G1 ycol
Gl yceri n
Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50
% bv Weiaht
66.55
1 . oo
0.30
0. 05
0.20
3.00
2.00
5. 00
P art B:
Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100 S tearate/ Arl acel 165 4.00
Di octyl Maleate/Bernel E ster COM 5.00
C12-15 Al kyl Benzoate/Finsolv TN 4.00
S teari c A c i d/Emersol 132 1 . oo
Dimethicone/Dow Corni ng 200, 350 cs. 0.20
Cetyl Al cohol / Lanette 16 2.00
P ropylparaben 0. 10
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne 99%
P art D:
Di az ol i di nyl Urea/Germall I1
Lemon P assion F r ui t Complex P rovi tal
0.30
0. 30
5.00
P rocedure:
Di sperse Veegum U l tr a and K el tr ol i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o
75C. Add remai ni ng P art A i ngredi ents. Mi x u n t i l uni form. Heat
P art B t o 75C. Add P art B t o P art A whi l e mi xi ng wi th good agi t-
ati on. Add P art C . Mi x f o t 30 minutes u n t i l compl etel y homogen-
eous. Cool t o 40C. Add P art D. Conti nue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o
35c.
Appearance: Opaque, whi te l oti on
Vi s cos i ty: 12,000-15,000 cps (RVT #5 (3 10 r pm (3 25C)
pH: 3.60-4.20
NOTE: May i nf r i nge on an exi s ti ng patent. P lease consul t your
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati on #29-0707-6
1 egal advi sor.
Beauty Aids 77
Cheek Rouge
A . Amihope LL
Nylon Powder
Ti tani um Di oxi de
A1 umi num Oxide
Pigment
Tal c
8. Di methyl pol ysi loxane
Procedure:
1. Mix ( A) wi th a speed mi xer
2. Add (B) t o (A), and mi x.
3. Si eve them, and press.
Wt%
15. 0
15. 0
10. 0
2. 0
q . s
the r es t
2. 0
Note :
Thi s cheek rouge has smooth touch and proper adhesion.
Eye Shadow
A . S er i c i te
Mica
Nylon Powder
Amihope LL
Ti tani um Di oxi de
P earl Pigment
Pigments
Tal c
B. I s os teari c Aci d
Procedure:
1. Mix ( A) wi th a speed mi xer.
2. Add ( B ) t o (A), and mi x.
3 . Si eve them, and press.
W B
5. 0
0. 0
5. 0
10. 0
7. 0
q . s .
q . s .
the r es t
2. 0
Note:
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc , : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Thi s eye shadow has smooth touch and proper adhesion.
78 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Emulsion O/W Liquid
I Cut i na MD
Eumul gi n B1
Eumul gi n 82
Eut anol G
Par af f i n oi 1 , hi gh vi scous
I I Wat er
For mul a No. 821- 01
Cleansing Emulsion O/W Liquid
I Cut i na MD
Lanet t e 0
Eumul gi n B1
Eumul gi n 82
Ri l ani t GMO
Cet i ol SN
Par af f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
I1 Wat er
For mul a No. 821- 02
Cleansing Emulsion O/W Liquid
I Lanet t e 16
Si eger t St ear i n L2SM
Eumul gi n B1
Eumul gi n 82
Cet i ol V
Cet i ol S
I I T r i et hanol ami ne
Wat er
For mul a No. 621- 03
%w/w
8 . 0
1. 5
1. 5
10. 0
20. 0
59. 0
o m
4. 0
2. 0
1. 5
1. 5
1 . o
10. 0
25. 0
55. 0
%WB
2. 0
3. 0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
15. 0
0. 2
71 . 8
Cleansing Emulsion
%W/w
I Lamecr eme LPM 10. 0
Par af f i n oi l 2. 0
Lanet t e 16 1. 0
Wool f at 1 . o
Wat er 71. 7
Cegesof t C24 3. 0
Eut anol G 3. 0
I 1 Lamepon S-TR 3. 0
1, 2- pr opyl ene gl ycol 5. 0
111 Per f ume 0. 3
Pr epar at i on:
Phase I i s br ought t o 70C and t he aqueous phase, al so at 70C,
i s added sl owl y, st i r r i ng t hor oughl y. May be per f umed af t er st i r
cool i ng t o 40C.
For mul a No. 821- 04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
Beauty Aids 79
Compact Powder
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Tal c
Magnesi urn S tearate
Carbopol 1342/Carbomer 1342
Nutri l an L/Hydrolyzed Animal P rotei n
8: Wacker-Belsil CM 040/Cyclomethicone
C : Methyl paraben
Tal c
Pigments
74.00%
6. 00
3.00
12.00
2.00
0.20
1. 90
0. 70
P reservati ve, Fragrances, Pigments q . s .
Mi x A, add B sl owl y, add C and then mix D i nt o ABC hornogen-
F ormul ati on 635 AH
eousl y.
Compact Powder
Mater i a1 /CTFA-I ndex :
A. Tal c
Kaol i n
T i tani urn Di oxi de
Cal ci urn Carbonate
Magnesium S tearate
Bel s i l BNP/Boron Ni tr i de
Zi nc S tearate
B: I sopropyl Myri s tate
Ol eyl Ol eate
25.00%
25. 00
5.00
10.00
5.00
10. 00
12.50
3.50
4.00
Fragrances, pi gments q . s .
Mix A wel l , heat B and add i t i n porti ons , homogenize thor-
F ormul ati on 1057 AH
oughl y.
Nail Varnish Remover
A gentle nail varnish remover with added nourishing
i ngredi ents I
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Acetone
Water
Wacker-Belsil DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate
E thyl Acetate
Di i sopropyl Adi pate
Mix a1 1 the i ngredi ents together.
F ormul ati on 987 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
50. 00%
11 . oo
3. 00
35 .oo
0.50
80 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Skin Moisturizer
This lotion moisturizes and softens the skin without leaving
a greasy, heavy feel.
I ngredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Pemulen TR-1 (1)
Gl yceri n
Methyl Paraben
P ropyl Paraben
P art B:
White P etrol atum
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Di methi cone
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art C:
Di s tearyl dimoni um chl ori de ( 2 )
Deionized Water
P art D:
Fragrance
Col or
Wei aht%
71 - 00
0. 40
2. 00
0.10
0.10
1 . oo
2.50
2.50
0.30
0.10
20.00
g . s .
9,s.
F uncti on
Di 1 uent
Emu 1 s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
Humectant
P reservati ve
P reservati ve
Moi sture Barri er
Em011 i ent
Lubri cant
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
Condi ti oner
Di 1 uent
(1) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(2) Arosurf TA-100 (Sherex Chemical)
P reparati on:
1. Combine dei oni zed water, gl yceri n, and parabens i n a vessel
which w i l l contai n the enti r e formul ati on. Note: Parabens
may be predi spersed i n gl ycer i n t o f a c i l i t a t e di s s ol uti on.
2. Disperse the Pemulen i nt o the water mi xture wi th rapi d
agi tati on. Al l ow the s ol uti on t o mix f o r approxi matel y 30
minutes. Heat t o 70C.
3. Combine P art B i ngredi ents and heat t o 70C wi th mi xi ng.
4 . With moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix f o r 15-20
5. Combine P art C i ngredi ents and add t o the emulsion wi t h
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Formula PO023
minutes.
conti nued mi xi ng u n t i l cool .
BeautyAids 81
Cover Cream
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A : C andel i l l a Wax
5. 50%
B el s i l SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di s i loxane 6.70
S teari c Aci d
3.00
B: Water
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Tri ethanol ami ne
C: B el s i l BNP/Boron Ni tr i de
T i tani um Di oxi de
Pigments
45.80
3, 40
1 .30
10.00
4.00
2 . 0 0
D: B el s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone 18.30
P reservati ves, fragrances q . 5
Heat A and B each t o 70C. Add B t o A . Mix C t o AB homogen-
eousl y. Cool t o approx. 30C and add D.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 781 AH
Foundation Cream
Ma t e r i a 1 / CT FA.- I n d ex :
A : Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S tearate s e
Ol i ve O i l
B el s i l BNP/Boron Ni t r i de
B: Gl yceri ne
Water
Bel s i 1 PDM 2O/Phenyldimethicone
Bel s i 1 CM 020/Cycl amethi cone
2 0 . 0 0 %
4.00
3.00
4.00
67.50
1 . oo
0. 50
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q . s .
Heat A t o 70C, mix B and heat t o 65C. Add 6 i nt o A wi th hi gh
agi tati on.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 780 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
82 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Eye Shadow
I ngredi ents :
A: Tal c
Vancl ay , Kaol i n
I r on Oxides
T i tani um Di oxi de
B: S teari c Aci d
G1 yceryl S tearate
Lanol i n
Sesame O i l
Ol i ve O i l
I sopropyl Myri s tate
C : C el l ul os e Gum (CMC 7LF)
D: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i cate
Di s t i l l e d Water
Di s t i l l e d Water
W t .%*
18.00
2. 00
4.50
5. 50
0. 80
2. 00
4.00
2. 00
1 . oo
3.00
0.10
9.90
1. 75
33.75
E : P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne, 99% 0.40
Darvan No. 1, Sodium P olynaphtalene S ul fonate 0.30
Di s t i l l e d Water 6. 00
F : P reservati ve, Fragrance q . 5 .
P rocedure:
Mi cropul veri ze i ngredi ents i n P art A. Heat P art B t o 70C.
P repare cel l ul os e gum s ol uti on usi ng the P art C i ngredi ents.
P repare a Veegum di spersi on usi ng the P art D i ngredi ents.
Combine P arts C and D. Add the combined P art E i ngredi ents
and add t o P arts C tD. Add P art A pigments t o water phase and
homogenize. Heat t o 6DC and mai ntai n temperature f o r 10 minutes
Add oi l phase t o water phase and mix u n t i l temperature cool s t o
45C. Add F when cool .
*As recei ved bas i s
SOURCE: R. T. Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Veegum i n Col or Cosmetics:
Formula from Aqualon Co.
Beauty Aids 83
Cream Foundation
A Dei oni zed Water 52. 00%
P ecosi l WDS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) 3. 00
P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
Xanthan Gum 0. 25
Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c ate 0. 75
B Ti tani um Di oxi de
( red)
( bl ac k )
C Pelemol GS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Tal c
I r on Oxide ( yel l ow)
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Pelemol OPG (Octyl P el argonate)
Macademia Nut O i l
Cetearyl Al cohol
Pelemol OP (Octyl P al mi tate)
Dimethicone (5000 cs )
7. 16
1 . 05
1. 21
0. 42
0. 16
8. 00
5. 00
5. 00
2. 00
2. 00
5. 00
0. 50
D Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0. 50
E P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and) 1 . oo
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
Procedure:
the P ropylene Gl ycol . 2. Homogenize t h i s s l ur r y i nt o phase
water, and when uni form, homogenize phase B i nt o phase A .
3 . When AB i s uni form, swi tch t o sweep agi tati on and add P ecosi l
WDS-100. 4. With conti nued sweep agi tati on, heat AB t o 70-75C.
5 . Heat phase C t o 70-75C wi th sweep agi tati on. 6. Homogenize
phase C t o AB. 7. When ABC i s uni form, swi tch t o sweep agi t-
ati on and add phase D t o ABC. 8. Cool t o 45C under sweep agi t-
ati on and then add phase E . 9. Continue sweep agi tati on whi l e
cool i ng t o 3 5 C .
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc . : Formula 14-106-8
1. Prewet Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c at e and Xanthan Gum wi th
84 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Lotion O/W with Ginseng Root Extract
I Cuti na CBS
Cuti na E24
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol SN
Eutanol G
Cremogen Ginseng root
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula A22-06
Water
Skin Emulsion O/W Low Viscous with Avocado Oil
I Cuti na CBS
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Avocado o i l
s/ow/w
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
8. 0
4. 0
1 . o
5. 0
71 . O
o/,w/w
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
3. 0
I 1 Water 81 . O
Formula No. A22-07
Moisturizing Emulsion O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Hygroplex HHG
1, 2- propyl ene gl ycol
Water
Formula No. A23-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Co s met i c Model Formulae
o/,w/w
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
10. 0
5. 0
4. 0
5. 0
7. 0
58. 0
Beauty Aids 85
Creamy Eye Shadow
Dei oni zed Water
P ecosi l PS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate)
P ropylene G1 ycol
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
Xanthan Gum
Ti tani um Di oxi de
Tal c
I r on Oxides
Pelemol GS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Pelemol OPG (Octyl P elargonate)
Macademia Nut O i l
Cetearyl Al cohol
Pelemol OP (Octyl P al mi tate)
S i l tec h F- 500 (Dimethicone, 500 cs)
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
51 .94%
3. 00
5. 00
0. 75
0. 25
7. 15
1. 05
1 . 8 6
8. 00
5. 00
5. 00
2. 00
2. 00
5. 00
0. 50
0. 50
1 . oo
P rocedure:
1. Prewet Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate and Xanthan Gum wi th the
P ropylene Gl ycol . 2. Homogenize t h i s s l ur r y i nt o phase A water,
and when uni form, homogenize phase B i n t o phase A 3. When AB
i s uni form, swi tch t o sweep agi tati on and add P ecosi l WDS-100.
4 . Wi th conti nued sweep agi tati on, heat AB t o 70-75C. 5. Heat
phase C t o 70-75C wi th sweep agi tati on. 6. Homogenize phase
- C t o @. 7. When AB_C i s uni form, swi tch t o sweep agi tati on
and add phase D t o @C, 8. Cool t o 45C under sweep agi tati on
and then add phase E . 9. Continue sweep agi tati on whi l e cool i ng
t o 35c.
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc. : Formula 14-108-D
86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Lotion Moisturizer
A creamy, non-greasy l o t i o n w i t h a qui ck dryi ng cool i ng
sensati on. Leaves s ki n f eel i ng s of t, smooth and moi sturi zed.
A . Methyl Paraben 0.25
Carbomer 941 (Goodrich, Carbopol 941) 0.50
Water 65.40
8. I sopropyl Lanol ate (Amerchol, Amerlate P) 2.50
S tearyl Al cohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Amerchol,
Promulgen G) 3.50
Mink O i l (Emulan, L i ght F racti on) 5.50
Myr i s tyl Myri s tate (Van Dyk, Ceraphyl 424) 1.50
P ropyl Paraben 0. 15
C . Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.50
Ethanol (SD 40 Al cohol , 95%) 20.00
Perfume 0. 20
P rocedure:
1. Disperse Carbopol i n water, add methyl paraben, then heat
2. Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A vi a propel l or agi tati on.
3. Cool t o 45C and add Phase C .
Phase A t o 75C.
Moisture Balm
An anal gesi c, non-i rri t a t i ng, soothi ng, mot s t ur i z i ng s ki n
balm. Unique formul a combining Li poprotei n, Yeast E xtract
and Mink O i l wi th Homomenthyl S al i cyl ate f o r superi or s ki n
benef i ts .
Wt.%
A. I sopropyl P al mi tate (Amerchol, P ropal ) 5. 0
Mink O i l (Emulan, L i ght F racti on) 5.0
Homomenthyl S al i cyl ate 5. 0
PEG-6 S tearate (and) Gl yceryl S tearate (and)
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolymer
Ceteth-20 (Gattefosse, Tefose 2561) 7.5
(Dow Corning, Q2-3225C) 4. 0
8. Water 63.6
C . Hydrolyzed Animal P rotei n 1 . o
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Yeast E xtract
(Gattefosse, Vegetol LP) 2. 7
PEG-8 (UCC, Carbowax 400) 5. 0
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl Urea (and)
Methyl Paraben (and) P ropyl Paraben
(Sutton, Germaben 1 1 ) 1. 0
Fragrance 0.2
P rocedure:
Add 70C Phase B t o 65C Phase A vi a hi gh shear propel l or
agi tati on. S t i r cool t o 35C. Add room temperature Phase C .
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids 87
Creamy Mascara
Creamy s o f t .
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index :
A : Bel s i 1 DM 350/Dimethi cone
B el s i l CM 025/Cyclomethicone
Cetyl A1 coho1
S teari c Aci d
Vasel i ne/P etrol atum
Mi neral O i l
8: Tri ethanol ami ne
Wasser dest. /Water
P igmente/(Colour)
P reservati ves, perfume
2.00%
3.00
2. 00
9.90
5.50
4. 10
3. 10
61 . 30
9.10
q. s .
Mix A and heat t o 60C, s t i r i n B. Add the pigments and work
i n unt i l a homogeneous mi xture i s formed.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 195 AH
Mascara
F i r m cream.
M-at e r i a 1 / CT FA- I n d e x 1
A: B el s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone
B el s i l PDM 200/P henyldimethicone
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
Vase1 i ne/ P etrol atum
M i neral O i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
B : Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
P i gment e/ ( Col our )
P reservati ves, perfume
C :
Heat A t o 60C
homogeneous1 y.
Temperature s
F ormul ati on 2
SOURCE: Wacker S
add B whi l s t s t i r r i n g qui ckl y. Work i n C
a bi l i t y: at 45C 8 weeks.
1 AH
l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
2. 00%
4.00
5. 00
19.80
5. 50
4. 10
6.20
43.40
10.00
q. s .
88 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Depilatory Cream O/W
I
I 1
I11
Lanette N/SX
Urea
Water
Gel whi te USP
T hi ogl ycol i c aci d 80%
L i t h i um hydroxi de
%w/w
6.0
4.0
74.5
5.0
6.0
4.5
Note: I n accordance wi th the German cosmetics l egi s l ati on,
depi l atory creams may contai n a maximum o f 5% thi ogl yc ol i c
aci d and the pH must be t12.65. The pH o f t hi s cream i s approx.
12.
P reparati on: T hi ogl ycol i c aci d and l i thi um hydroxi de are
di ssol ved or suspended i n 20 parts water. Gel whi te i s swel l ed
i n 20 par ts c ol d water. Wi th the r es t of the water, i n which
the urea has been di ssol ved, a cream i s produced wi th Lanette
N/SX. Af ter the cream has compl etel y cool ed down, the acti ve
i ngredi ent mi xture and the gel whi te s ol uti on are added.
Formula No. Gll-01
Depilatory Emulsion O/W, High Viscous
I Lanette N
Eumulgin 63
I 1 T hi ogl ycol i c aci d 80%
L i thi um hydroxi de
Urea
Me1 ami ne
Water
%w/w
4.0
2.0
6.0
4.5
4.0
2.0
77.5
P reparati on: T hi ogl ycol i c aci d, l i thi um hydroxi de and mela-
mine are di ssol ved or suspended i n ha l f the water. Wi th the r es t
o f the water, i n which the urea has been di ssol ved ear l i er , a
cream or emulsion i s produced wi th the f a t t y substances. Af ter
the cream has cool ed down compl etel y, the acti ve i ngredi ent
mi xture i s added t o the cream and then perfumed.
Note: I n accordance wi th the German cosmetics l egi s l ati on,
depi l atory creams may contai n a maximum o f 5% thi ogl yc ol i c aci d
and the pH must be t12.65. The pH o f t h i s emulsion i s approx. 12
Formula No. G21-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
BeautyAids 89
Eyeliner
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
Pigment col ors
L uvi skol K30
E thyl al cohol 96%
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Veegum s ol uti on 6%
Water
%w/w
3 . 0
1 . o
3. 0
3. 0
10. 0
8. 0
5. 0
3. 0
20. 0
44.0
P reparati on: An o/w-type emulsion i s produced i n the usual way
wi th the f a t t y substances and ha l f the water. Luvi skol K30 i s
di ssol ved i n the mi xture o f al cohol and the r es t o f the water
and the pigments are added t o t h i s s ol uti on. Having cool ed
down, the emulsion i s added gradual l y t o the Luvi skol pigment
mi xture and then the Veegum s ol uti on i s s t i r r e d i n . The
f i ni s hed emulsion should be homogenized mechani cal l y.
Formula No. P24-01
Make-up Stick
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Formula No. P41-01
Powder Stick
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Formula No. 41-02
Cover-up Stick
Cuti na LM
Pigment col ors
Formula No. 41-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
P arts
84. 0
16. 0
15. 0
P arts
50. 0
10.0
40. 0
P arts
70. 0
30. 0
90 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Make-up Remover, Liquid
C eti ol SN
Eutanol G
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Formula No. B32-01
Eye Make-up Remover in Gel Form
C eti ol SN
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Aeros i l 200
Formula No. 832-02
Make-up Remover, Su r f ac t an t Based
Dehyton G
C eti ol HE
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. 532-03
Make-up Remover, Anhydrous
Lanette 16
Cuti na BW
Vasel i ne, whi te
Wool f at, anhydrous
Hard paraf f i n
C eti ol V
Formula No. 532-04
W N
60. 0
30.0
10. 0
y$u!
63. 0
30. 0
7 . 0
- %W/ w
20. 0
25. 0
0. 3
54. 7
%Wl.W
10.0
15.0
35. 0
10. 0
5. 0
25. 0
Eye Make-up Removing Stick
Cuti na LM
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Vase1 i ne, whi te
Formula No. 541-01
%W&
8 0 . 0
10. 0
10. 0
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
BeautyAids 91
Eye Shadow Stick
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Formula No. P44-01
Cuti na LM
Ozokeri te 70-72C
Pigment col or
Formula No. P44-02
Cuti na LM
Ozokeri te 70-72C
Pigment col or
Formula No.
I Cuti na
S i eger
Cet i o l
P araf f
P44-03
Eyeliner Pencil
Eyebrow Pencil
Make-up Cream with Pearly Gloss, O/W
MD
V
n oi 1, hi gh vi scous
S teari n L2 SM
Wool f at, anhydrous
Pigment col ors
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Tri ethanol ami ne
Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
1 1 1 Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula Pl l -04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
P arts
72.0
20.0
3. 0
15. 0
0. 5
P arts
85. 0
5. 0
10. 0
P arts
78.0
12.0
10. 0
%w/w
2. 0
I . o
5. 0
10.0
2. 0
8. 0
5. 0
0. 5
30.0
26.5
10. 0
92 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Shadow
A . S er i c i te
Mica
Nylon Powder
Amihope LL
Ti tani um Di oxi de
P earl Pigment
Pigments
Tal c
B. I s os teari c Aci d
P rocedure:
1. Mix ( A ) wi th a speed mi xer.
2. Add ( B) t o ( A ) , and mi x.
3. Si eve them, and press.
Note:
Thi s eye shadow has smooth touch and proper adhesion
15.0%
10.0
15. 0
10. 0
7. 0
q . s .
q . s .
the r es t
2. 0
Face Powder with Amihope LL
A . Tal c q . s . t o 100%
Lauroyl Lysi ne* 5%-30%
P ropylparaben 0.05%
Butyl paraben 0 I 05%
Pigments (Ti tani um Di oxi de, I r on Oxides, Ul tramari nes,
etc. ) q . s .
B. Captex 300** 1 . O%
Fragrance 9 , s .
Magnesi um S tearate 2 * 5%
Charge a l l phase A i ngredi ents i nt o appropri ate bl ender and
mi x. Combine phase B l i qui ds and spray or add t o bl endi ng
phase A. Af ter mi xi ng i s complete, pul veri z e wel l . Very
smooth f eel wi th good s ki n adhesion.
*Amihope LL(Aj i nomot0 USA, I nc . )
**Capri c/Capryl i c T r i gl yceri des(Capi t a l C i ty P roducts)
Powder Foundation
A . Tal c
S eri ci t e
Mica
Magnesi um S tearate
Ti tani um Di oxi de
Amihope LL
Pigments
Di methyl pol ysi l oxane
0 . 2-Octyl dodecanol
Procedure:
1. Add (A) wi th speed mi xer.
2 . Add (6) t o (A).
3. Si eve them, and press.
Note:
SOURCE: Aj i nomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Thi s powder foundati on has l i g h t touch
36.9
30.0
10. 0
1 . o
5. 0
5. 0
2. 1
4. 0
6. 0
Beauty Aids 93
Eve Shadow Cream O/W
I S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Cuti na MD-A
Eumulgin B1
Lanette 16
Eutanol G
I sopropyl myri s tate
Col orant s :
P i gment col ors
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne
l , 2- propyl ene gl ycol
Water
I 11 Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P14-01
Eve Shadow Cream O/W
I Lanette 16
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Eumulgin 81
Lanette E
I sopropyl pal mi tate
P i gment col ors
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Tal c
Ti tani um di oxi de
Kaol i n
I 1 Luvi skol K30
Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
%w/w
4. 0
4 . 0
1 . o
2. 0
2. 0
4. 0
1. 4
3.6
1 . o
5. 0
67 . O
5. 0
%w/w
1 . o
1 . o
0. 5
0. 2
5. 0
0. 7
6. 0
1 . a
0. 6
3. 0
40. 0
29. 7
1 . a
I11 Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115 10.0
P reparati on: Phase I i s melted, the pigment col ors and powders
are added and the mass i s processed through a c o l l o i d or r o l l e r
m i l l . The pi grnent/fat mass i s then heated t o approx. 80C and the
water, i n which the Luvi skol K30 has been di ssol ved, s ti r r ed i n
a t the same temperature. The emulsion i s s t i r cool ed and the
Veegum s ol uti on i s added a t 40C. Phase 111 i s added under 30C.
Formula No. P14-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
94 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid
Texapon ASV
Water
Note: WAS 9%
Formula No. L69-01
Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid
Texapon ASV
Dehyton AB 30
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 12%
Formula No. L69-02
Face Cleanser
Texapon ASV
C eti ol HE
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% s ol uti on
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Note: WAS approx. 6%, medium vi scous
Formula No. L69-03
Cleansing Lotion, Contains Surfactant
Lamepon S
Nutri l an I
Monomuls 90-L 12
Water
%w/w
3 0 . 0
7 0 . 0
%w/w
30.0
10.0
3. 0
5 7 . 0
%w/w
20.0
2.0
5 0 . 0
1 . o
27.0
9bw/w
9. 4
0 . 5
0. 2
89.9
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 3%
P reparati on: Monomuls 90-L 12 i s di ssol ved i n Lamepon S whi l e
heat i s appl i ed. The remaining i ngredi ents are then added i n
the order gi ven above. The pH i s set t o 6. 5 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
Formula No. L69-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Co s met i c Model Formulae
Beauty Aids 95
Face Mask
Cl ear yel l ow, hi gh vi s cos i ty. Produces a f i l m on the s ki n
which can be pul l ed or rubbed o f f a f t e r approx. 10 mi nutes.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: P ol yvi ol W 25/140/P ol yvi nyl Al cohol
B: Water
C: Tri ethanol ami ne
Ethanol 96%ig/Alcohol(Cosmetic grade)
Bel s i 1 DMC 6035/Methi cone Copolyol Acetate
Ethanol 96%ig/Alcohol (Cosmetic grade)
P reservat i ves, fragrances, p i gments
10,00%
25,OO
45,OO
2,oo
3,OO
15,OO
q . s .
Mix P ol yvi ol W 25/140 and the cosmetic al cohol and s t i r i nt o
8. Heat t o approx. 85C i n water bath ( whi l s t s t i r r i ng) , u n t i l a
cl ear lump-free s ol uti on i s produced. Cool t o a t l eas t 40C and
add t o C whi l s t s t i r r i ng.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 313 AH
Gel Exfoliator
Product i s a mi l d scrub due t o the i ncl us i on o f DC 193 which
provi des a smooth f eel on the ski n, whi l e P ol ytrap 6038 does the
scrubbi ng acti on by rel easi ng mi neral o i l ( i n form o f beads) and
absorbi ng a t the same ti me excessi ve o i l from the s ki n.
I nAredi ents:
Water ( di s t i l l e d)
EDTA Di sodi um
Extrapone Wi tch Hazel
Dow Corning 193
Carbopol 1342 (2% Soln)
P ol ytrap 6038
S uttoci de A
P erf . Rain F orest
AMP-95
Note: p H shoul d be 5 . 5 0
% by Weight
37.56
0.10
3.00
0.44
3. 00
5 0 . 0 0
3. 00
0. 70
0. 20
-6.50 ( correct wi th AMP, i f necessary)
Procedure:
1. S tart mi xi ng water and add EDTA, and Wi tch Hazel and DC 193
2 . Then add sl owl y Carbopol s ol uti on wi th l ow speed ( t o avoi d
3. When a l l Carbopol i s i n, add AMP-95 t o neutral i z e it and then
4 . I n a homogeneous mi xture add S uttoci de and mi x.
5. A t the end add the fragrance and sl owl y mix i n.
6. Take a sample for QC and, when approved, pack o f f prodcuct.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary: Formulat4on
and mix t o di ssol ve.
formati on o f a i r bubbl es).
add sl owl y P ol ytrap 6038 t o get uni form di s tr i buti on.
PF-0311 suggested by Dow Corni ng
96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Face Mask O/W
I S i egert S teari n L2SM
I1 Tri ethanol ami ne
Gel whi te USP
Water
111 Kaol i n
Ti tani um di oxi de
%w/w
6 . 0
0.3
5.0
71 . 7
15.0
2.0
P reparati on:
Gel whi te i s s t i r r e d whi l e s wel l i ng i n 30 parts col d water.
S i egert S teari n L2SM i s mel ted a t 75C and the r es t o f the water
and tri ethanol ami ne are s t i r r e d i n a t a temperature of 8OC.
A t 35C, the gel whi te s ol uti on as wel l as kaol i n and ti tani um
di oxi de are added t o the cream.
Formula No. 113-01
Vitamin Face Mask O/W
I Emulgade F
Carrot o i l CLR
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne ester CLR
I 1 Vi scontran MHPC 400
Water
I11 Zi nc oxi de
Kaol i n
Almond meal
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
I V Camphor
E thyl al cohol 96%
%w/w
5 . 0
3.0
3.0
0. 2
54. 7
10.0
10. 0
5. 0
8. 0
0. 1
1 . o
P reparati on:
substances (1) are heated t o 75C and the r es t o f the water i s
s t i r r e d i n a t a temperature of 80C. A t approx. 35C, the
Vi scontran s ol uti on ( I I ) , the powder substances, the Cremogen
wi tch hazel extract and the camphor/alcohol s ol uti on are added
t o the cream.
Formula No. 513-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Vi scontran MHPC i s swel l ed i n 30 parts col d water. The f a t t y
Beauty Aids 97
Facial Cleanser
formul ati on i s l i ght , non-greasy and water-
des thorough cl eansi ng wi thout dryi ng the
Thi s cl eansi ng
ri ns abl e. It prov
s ki n.
I ns redi ent (CTFA)
P art A:
Deionized Water
Cocoamphodi acetate (1 )
Quaternium-15 (2)
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
P art 8:
I s os tearyl Benzoate (3)
Di octyl Maleate ( 4 )
Capryl i c/ Capri c T ri gl yceri de
Octyl Hydroxystearate (5)
Pemulen TR-2 (6)
Carbopol 980 ( 7)
P art C:
Aminomethyl Propanol (95%) (8)
Wei sht%
89.55
1 .oo
0.10
0.10
0. 05
4. 00
2.00
1- 00
1 .oo
0.20
0. 60
0.40
F uncti on
Di 1 uent
R i nsabi 1 i t y
P reservat i ve
P reservat i ve
P reservati ve
Sol vent
Solvent
Sol vent
Emol 1 i ent
Emu1 s i f i er
Thickener
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
(1) Mi ranol C2M Conc. NP (Mi ranol )
(2) Dowi ci l 200 (Dow Chemical)
(3) F i ns ol v SB (F i netex)
( 4 ) Bernel E ster DOM (Bernel Chemical)
(5) Wickenol 171 (CasChem)
(6) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crospolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 7) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
( 8 ) AMP-95 (Angus Chemical)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
2. Combine P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Mi x t o
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add the P art B s l ur r y t o P art A.
4 . Add P art C and mix vi gorous l y t o produce a smooth, whi te
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Formula PO009
the enti r e formul ati on. Mi x t o di s s ol ve parabens.
di s s ol ve any s of t lumps o f Pemulen and Carbopol.
Mix f o r 10-20 minutes t o al l ow res i ns t o s wel l .
cream.
98 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Gel Cleanser
"The Pastel Collection"
"Crystal"
A gentl e foaming gel cl eanser designed t o thoroughl y deep
cleanse and ref res h the s ki n wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s
natural moi sture bal ance.
I nqredi ent/Trade Name: YO b~ Weight_
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
P ol yquaterni um-10
C i t r i c Aci d
Tetrasodi um EDTA
Methylparaben
Sodi um P C A/ Aj i dew N-50
P art B:
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
PEG-I50 D i s tearate
Laurami de DEA
P art C :
Fragrance/#I Y-67
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methyl i sothi azol i none
P art D:
Sodi um Chl ori de
P rocedure:
50.150
0. 200
0. 100
0. 100
0.150
0. 500
30.000
10.000
5. 000
0. 700
2, 000
0. 250
0. 050
0.800
Di sperse Polymer J R-125 i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o 70C. Add
remaining par t A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l uni form. Add par t B
i ngredi ents i n order, Mi x a t 70C unti 1 completely homogeneous.
Cool t o 40C. Add par t C . Mi x wel l . Add P art D as needed t o i n-
crease vi s c os i ty. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 35C.
Appearance: Cl ear l i q u i d
Vi s cos i ty: 4,000-6,000 c ps
PH: 5.20-5.70
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati on
Beauty Aids 99
Facial Gel Cleanser
" The Pastel Collection"
'''Lavender''
A gentl e foaming gel cl eanser designed t o thoroughl y deeo
cl eanse and ref res h the s ki n wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s
natural moi sture bal ance.
I nnredi ents/Trade Name:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
P ol yquaterni urn-10
C i t r i c Aci d
Tetrasodi um EDTA
Methylparaben
Sodi um P CA/ Aj i dew N-50
P art 8 :
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
PEG-I50 Di stearate
Laurami de DEA
% by W e
50
0
0
0
0.
0.
3 0 .
gbt
176
200
100
100
150
500
000
10.000
5. 000
0. 700
2. 000
P art C :
Lavender Oi l /Lavender F l eurs 40/42 0. 200
Ext D&C Vi ol et (1% S ol uti on) 0. 020
D&C Red No. 33 ( 1% S ol uti on) 0. 004
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methyl i sothi azol i none 0. 050
P art D:
Sodium Chl ori de 0. 800
Procedure:
Di sperse Polymer J R-125 i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o 70C.
Add remaining part A i ngredi ents. Mix u n t i l uni form. Add part
B i ngredi ents i n order. Mix at 70C u n t i l compl etel y homogeneous.
Cool t o 40C. Add part C . Mix wel l . Add part D as needed t o
i ncrease vi s c os i ty. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 35C.
Aooearance: Cl ear lavender l i a ui d
, .
pH: 5.20-5.70
Vi s cos i ty: 4,000-6,000 cps (RVT #4 @ 10 rpm @ 25C)
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc , : Suggested F ormul ati on
100 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Gel Cleanser
"The Pastel Collection"
"Marine"
A gentl e foaming gel cl eanser designed t o thoroughl y deep
cl eanse and ref res h the s ki n wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s
natural moi sture balance.
I ngredi ent/ Trade Name: YO by Weight
P art A :
Dei oni zed Water
P olyquaternium-10
C i t r i c Aci d
Tetrasodi um EDTA
Methylparaben
Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50
P art 8:
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
PEG-150 Di s tearate
Laurami de DEA
P art C:
Fragrance/#LK-40
FD&C Bl ue No. 1 ( 1% S ol uti on)
FD&C Y el l ow No. 5 (1% S ol uti on)
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methyl i s othi azol i none
P art D:
Sodium Chl ori de
50.187
0,200
0. 100
0. 100
0. 150
0. 500
3 0 . 0 0 0
10. 000
5. 000
0. 700
2. 000
0. 200
0. 004
0. 009
0. 050
0.800
P rocedure:
Di sperse Polymer J R-125 i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o 70C.
Add remai ni ng par t A i ngredi ents . Mix unt i l uni form. Add P art B
i ngredi ents i n order. Mi x at 70C unt i l compl etel y homogeneous.
Cool t o 40C. Add par t C . Mix wel l . Add par t D as needed t o
i ncrease vi s cos i ty. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 35C.
Appearance: Cl ear l i ght green l i qui d
Vi s cos i ty: 4,000-6,000 cps (RVT #4 @ 10 rpm @ 25C)
P H: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati on
Beauty Aids 101
Facial Gel Cleanser
" The Pastel Collection"
" Rose'"
A gentl e foaming gel cl eanser designed t o thoroughl y deep
cleanse and ref res h the s ki n wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s
natural moi sture bal ance.
I ngrgdi entj Trade Name:.
P art A :
Dei oni zed Water
P olyquaternium-10
C i t r i c Aci d
Tetrasodi um EDTA
Methylparaben
Sodl um P CA/A] i dew N- 50
P art B:
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
PEG-150 01 s tearate
Laurami de DEA
% b y Weight
50.193
0. 200
0. 100
0. 100
0.150
0. 500
3 0 . 0 0 0
10. 000
5.000
0. 700
2. 000
P art C :
Fragrance/#U-9257 0.200
D&C Red No. 33 (1. 0% S ol uti on) 0.007
Met hyl chl or oi sot hi azol i none and Methyl i sothi azol i none 0.050
P art 0 :
Sodium Chl ori de 0. 800
P rocedure:
remaining par t A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l uni form. Add par t B
i ngredi ents i n order. Mi x a t 70C u n t i l compl etel y homogeneous.
Cool t o 40C. Add par t C . Mi x well. Add part D as needed t o
i ncrease vi scosi t y , Continue mi x i ng and cool i ng t o 35C.
Disperse Polymer J R-125 i n dei oni zed water. Heat t o 70C. Add
Appearance: Cl ear pi nk l i q u i d
Vi s cos i ty: 4, 000- 6, 000 cps (RVT #4 @ 10 rpm @ 25C)
pH: 5. 20- 5. 70
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati on
102 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gelled Nail Lacquer Remover
__ I ngr e_dxn_t_s :
Acetone
Dei oni zed Water
P ropylene G1 ycol
Carbopol 941 (1)
PEG-15 Cocamine ( 2 )
Weight% F uncti on
72. 0 Sol vent
9. 5 Di l uent
9. 5 Lubri cant
2. 0 Gel l i ng Agent
2. 0 Neutral i zer
Gl yceri n 5. 0 Lubri cant
Col or
Fragrance
9, s .
0 , s .
Procedure:
1 . Combine acetone, dei oni zed water, and propyl ene gl ycol . Mix
2 . Di sperse Carbopol 941 i nt o the acetone mi xture wi th moderate
3, Reduce agi tati on and neutral i ze vdi t h PEG-1 5 Cocami ne.
4 . Add gl yceri n, col or, and fragrance and mix unt i l wel l combined
Suppl i ers :
(1) BFGoodrich Co.
( 2) Akzo (Ethomeen C-25)
Forrnul a COO30
thorough1 y.
agi tati on. Mi x f o r 30-45 mi nutes.
Icey Blue Camphorated Skin Gel (Clear)
I ngredi ents :
P art A:
Water (Dei oni zed)
Carbopol 940
P art 8:
I sopropyl Al cohol
Camphor ( Crys tal s )
P ol ysorbate 20
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Methyl Parabens
FDYC Bl ue
D i sod1 urn EDTA
Weight% Funct 1 on
85. 6 Di l uent
0. 9 Gel l i ng Agent
10. 0 Sol vent f o r
Act 1 ve
0. 2 Acti ve
1 . O S urfactant
2 D Neutral i z er
0. 2 P reservati ve
0. 002 S ol ubl e Dye
0. 1 Chel ati ng Agent
P rocedure:
1 . Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol 940 i nt o the vortex o f r api dl y agi tat-
i ng water when res i n i s di spersed, reduce agi tati on, mix
unti 1 homogenous di s pers i on i s obtai ned.
sweeping agi tati on unt i l a cl ear gel r es ul ts .
2 . Separatel y combine P art B. Add t o P art A wi th moderate
Formula COO31
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beauty Ai ds 103
Gentle Body Polisher
(Formula 91-0507)
Thi s el egant body pol i s her i s prepared wi th mi l d surfactants and
a f i ne abrasi ve that res ul ts i n a mi l d yet ef f ec ti ve body
pol i sher. I t s non-a1 kal i ne pH and combi nati on o f i ngredi ents
are designed t o cl eanse the s ki n and l eave it f eel i ng cl ean
and smooth. The pol i s her i s thi c k and r i c h i n the package and
on your hand but readi l y thi ns when sheared, therefore, i t di s -
penses easi 1 y .
Deionized Water
Veegum U l tr a (R.T. Vanderbi l t)
Methocel E4M (Dow Chemical)
Mi racare XL
Hamposyl C (W.R. Grace)
Sodi um Hydroxi de (50%)
Alkamide DL 207/S
S teari c Aci d ( T r i pl e Pressed)
A1 kamul s EGMS
Geropon AC-78/NP
Acuscrub 50 (A1 1 i ed S i gnal )
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
% 0v Weight
Q . S .
1 . oo
0. 80
8.50
1 . oo
0. 50
2. 00
1 . oo
1 . oo
13.00
20.00
Q.S.
Bl endi ng P rocedure: Wi th vi gorous agi tati on di sperse Veegum
U l tr a i n Dei oni zed Water and begi n heati ng. When batch has
reached 75C, add Methocel E4M, agi tate vi gorousl y u n t i l
di spersed. Decrease agi tati on t o avoi d a i r entrapment. Mai ntai n
temperature at 75C and add Mi racare XL, Hamposyl C, Sodium
Hydroxide (50%), Alkamide DL 207/S, S teari c Aci d, Alkamuls EGMS,
and Geropon AC-78/NP. Af ter the Geropon AC-78/NP has di ssol ved
begi n cool i ng. Add Acuscrub 50 a t 60C. Add Fragrance, Dye(s) and
P reservati ve a t 40C.
Note: Fragrance s el ecti on may af f ec t pH and vi s cos i ty. Vi s cos i ty
can be adj usted by varyi ng the Methocel E4M l evel , pH can
be adj usted by varyi ng the Sodium Hydroxide l evel .
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance: Opaque, Abrasi ve Cream
Vi s cos i ty: Brookf i el d LV4 @ 25C (12 hours af ter preparati on)
C 0. 3 RPM 650,000-750,000 CP S
C 0. 6 RPM 450,000-550,000 CPS
C 1. 5 RPM 250,000-350,000 CP S
pH : 6. 5- 7. 5
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Oxi di zed P ol yethyl ene, Sodium
Cocoyl I s ethi onate, DEA-Lauryl S ul f ate, Lauramide OEA, Sodium
Stearate, Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosi nate, Gl ycol S tearate, Magnesium
Aluminum S i l i c ate, DEA-L aurami nopropi onate, Sodium Lauramimo-
propi onate, P ropylene Gl ycol , Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose,
Fragrance, P reservati ve, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula 91-0507
104 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gentle Facial Cleanser & Moisturizer
(Formula 91-0901)
Thi s el egant, hi gh s ol i ds f ac i al cl eanser i s formul ated wi th mi l d
cl eansi ng agents and moi s turi z i ng agents t o l eave the face cl ean
and moi sturi zed. I t s non- al kal i ne pH has been chosen t o match the
s ki n' s natural pH. I t s r i c h creamy, pearl ed appearance conveys
i t s l uxuri ous f eel and performance.
Dei oni zed Water
Hamposyl L-30 (W.R.Grace)
Rhodafac RS 610
Sorbi to1 (70%)
G1 ycer i n
D i gl yceri n (Sol vay)
A1 kamul s EGMS
Cetearyl Al cohol
Alkamide DI N 295/S
Mi neral O i l
Beeswax
Ceresi n
Sodi um Borate
Cheelox 100
Geropon AC-78/NP
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
% By Weiaht
Q. S .
40.00
3.00
2.10
1.50
1.50
4.00
1. 50
1 . oo
1 . oo
0.20
0.20
0. 05
0. 05
20. 00
Q.S.
Bl endi ng Procedure: I n a s i de scraped kettl e, or other ke t t l e
s ui tabl e f or prepari ng heavy creams, heat a l l components except
Geropon AC-78/NP t o 75C wi th gentl e agi tati on t o avoi d foaming
and aerati on. Add Geropon AC-78/NP and mai ntai n a t 75C u n t i l
di ssol ved. Avoi d aerati on and foaming. Cool . Add Fragrance,
Dye(s) and P reservati ve a t 35C.
Whi l e cool i ng, the product w i l l pass through a very thi c k phase.
However, upon f urther cool i ng and mi xi ng, the product w i l l thi n.
Note: Vi s cos i ty can be adj usted as desi red by varyi ng the
A I kamul s EGMS 1 eve1 .
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance: P earled, Flowable Cream
pH : 5. 7- 6. 1
S ol i ds : 50%
V i scosi t y* : Brookf i el d LV4 @ 25C
@ 0. 3 RPM 50,000-150,000
@ 1. 5 RPM 25,000-100,000
* Vi s cos i ty readi ng i s f uncti on o f aerati on.
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Sodium Cocoyl I sethi onate, Sodium
Lauroyl Sarcosi nate, Gl ycol S tearate, Tri deceth- 6 Phosphate,
Cetearyl Al cohol , S orbi tol , Gl yceri n, Di gl ycerol , Linoleamide
DEA, Mi neral O i l , Beeswax, Ceresi n, Sodium Borate, Disodium EDTA.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula
Beauty Aids 105
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray
A ref res hi ng spray contai ni ng s peci al humectants t o repl eni s h
much needed moi sture t o hai r and s ki n. Contai ns Sodium PCA t o
hel p res tore normal moi sture balance and keep the s ki n young and
f res h. Al so contai ns Al oe Vera Gel t o soothe dryness, and
emol l i ents t o condi ti on and protect the s ki n and hai r from
dryi ng out. Recommended f or use under dry c l i mati c condi ti ons ,
dry heat or duri ng sun exposure.
I i l gredi entiTradecNam3 I /. . _bLWE kk!.
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water aa. 95
Sodi um P C A/ Aj i dew N- 50 3. 00
Al oe Vera Gel Decol ori zed 1X 5. 00
Dimethicone Copolyol/Dow Corning 193 S urf actant 0. 30
D i azo1 i d i nyl Urea/Germall I 1 0. 10
P art B:
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Methylparaben
2. 00
0. 15
P art C:
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12 0. 50
Procedure:
Mix P art A i ngredi ents unt i l everythi ng i s compl etel y di s s -
ol ved. Heat P art B t o 50 degrees Centi grade and mi x u n t i l cl ear .
Add P art C . Mix we1 1 .
Appearance: Cl ear col orl es s , water- thi n l i qui d
pH: 5.30-5.60
Cheek Rouge
A Amihope LL
Nylon Powder
T i tan1 um Di 0x1 de
A1 umi num 0x1 de
Pigment
Tal c
B. Di methyl pol ysi loxane
Procedure:
1 . Mix (A) wi th a speed mi xer .
2 . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) , and mi x.
3. Si eve them, and press.
W t %
15. 0
15. 0
10. 0
2 . 0
q . s .
the r es t
2. 0
Note:
Thi s cheek rouge has smooth touch and proper adhesion.
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
lo6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
I naredi ent :
1 Monomuls
2 Lameform
90-0
TGI
Highly Protective Foundation
18
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Ceti ol A
S i pol 1618 C50
Beeswax
Zi nc s tearate
T i ovei l TG
Magnesium sul phate
G1 yceri ne
Pigments
P reservati ve
12 Water
%w/w
2. 0
4.0
0. 0
1. 0
3. 0
2. 0
0.0
1 . o
3.0
q . s .
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a r i c h W/O Ti nted Foundation Cream
wi th good emol l i ence and hi gh UV protecti on (SPF approx. 12).
The f i r s t seven components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 8 & 9 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The
water phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C. The pigments should
be i ncorporated wel l , and the product homogenised by T r i pl e
R ol l M i l l .
Formula TS 476
Water Thin Milk
I naredi en
1 Eumulg
2 Cuti na
3 Ceti ol
4 Cuti na
5 S i pol
6 Urea
7 Gl ycer
n 82
E24
141 4E
MD
618 C50
ne
8 P reservati ve
9 Water
%w/w
1. 0
2.0
7.0
1. 0
1 . o
3.0
3.0
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a water t hi n O/W s ki n mi l k. I t would
al s o be s ui tabl e f o r use i n a pump di spenser o r as an aerosol
body mousse.
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 6 & 7 are di ssol ved i n the water and heated t o the
same temperature as the o i l phase. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 453
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Beauty Aids 107
Lasting Strength Nail Toughener
(Keratin Protein Nail Strengthener and Conditioner)
Nai l s are made o f K erati n protei n. K erati n Nai l Toughener i s
appl i ed di r ec tl y t o the nai l becoming a par t o f the nai l i t s e l f
and formi ng a protecti ve moi sture retenti ve f i l m which enhances
the n a i l ' s f l e x i b i l i t y and dur abi l i ty.
counteract the damaging ef f ects of detergents and other envi ron-
mental abuse.
When used regul arl y, L asti ng S trength Nai l Toughener w i l l
Kera-Tein 1000 and Gel-Co are f i l m formers, coati ng and
penetrati ng i nt o the "pores" o f the na i l . Kera- tei n 1000 AS,
a cati oni c, al cohol sol ubl e K erati n es ter w i l l hel p pl as ti c i z e
the nai l and prevent embri ttl ement due t o excessi ve dryi ng.
L asti ng S trength Nai l Toughener adds a very attr ac ti ve, natural -
l ooki ng, heal thy sheen t o the nai l s .
I naredi ents:
%w/w
Water 59.5
I sopropyl Al cohol 20.0
Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrol yzed Keratei n) 9. 2
Kera-Tein 1000 AS (E thyl E ster o f Hydrol yzed Kerati n) 10. 0
Gel-Co (Gel ati n) 1 . o
Celquat L 200 (P olyquaternium-4) 0. 2
Fragrance 0. 1
Procedure:
s ol uti on. Cool t o 40C. Add the r es t o f the i ngredi ents. Age
overni ght . F i 1 ter s cl ear.
D i r ec ti ons :
and under ti ps . Use twi ce dai l y and always af ter washing.
Appl i cator and Cap by: Dab-0-Matic, M t . Vernon, NY
Vi al by: Brockway Glass, P arkersburg, WV
SOURCE: Maubrook I nc . : Formula #SK-2401
Mi x water, gel ati n and Celquat and warm t o 50C u n t i l a l l i n
Remove nai 1 pol i sh . Apply "Dab-0-Mati c" over cl ean, dry nai 1 s
608 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Coverage Foundation
I nQredi ent:
A : Dei oni zed Water
Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num
Cel l ul ose Gum (CMC 7MF)
0 : Butyl ene Gl ycol
T r i ethanol ami ne, 99%
Methylparaben
Di az ol i di nyl Urea (Germall
C: Gl yceryl S tearate
I s os teari c Aci d
S teari c Aci d XXX
I sopropyl Lanol ate
P ropylene Gl ycol Di es ter
P ropylparaben
D: Ti tani um Di oxi de
I r on Oxides
Tal c
S i l i c ate
11)
W t . x*
59. 55
1. 20
0. 60
6.00
2 * 00
0.30
0. 20
1 . oo
2. 00
2.00
5. 00
5. 00
0. 15
5. 62
1.38
8. 00
Procedure:
water whi l e mi xi ng wi th a homogenizer f or 20 min. at 5000 rpm.
Add the P art B i ngredi ents i n the order shown, mi xi ng each f o r
3 mi nutes. Add the P art D i ngredi ents and mix f or 10 mi nutes.
Begin heati ng t o 75C. Heat the P art C i ngredi ents t o 75C. Add
P art C t o P arts AtBtD and mix 10 mi nutes. Continue mi xi ng
sl owl y whi l e cool i ng t o room temperature.
Formula from Sun Chemical Corp.
Dry bl end the Veegum and Cel l ul ose Gum and add them t o the
Eyeliner
Veegum provi des thi ckeni ng and pigment suspens
formul a whi l e i ns uri ng smooth appl i cati on propert
product can be appl i ed t o the eyel i d wi th a brush
I naredi ents:
A: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i cate
Dei oni zed Water
Dei oni zed Water
8: PVP (PVP K-30)
C : I r on Oxides
D: P reservati ve
on i n t h i s
es. Thi s
W t .%*
2 . 5
75. 5
2. 0
10.0
10.0
q , s .
P rocedure:
avai l abl e shear. Continue mi xi ng u n t i l smooth. Di ssol ve the
PVP i n water usi ng a l i t t l e heat. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l
uni form. Add C and mix u n t i l smooth and uni form. Add P art D
and mix u n t i l uni form.
Formula No. 107
SOURCE: R. T. Vanderbi l t Co. , I nc . : Veegum i n Col or Cosmetics:
Sl owl y add Veegum t o the water, whi l e agi tati ng a t maximum
*AS recei ved basi s
Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beauty Aids 109
Lip Care Stick, Colorless
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
C eti ol SN
Formula No. A42-01
P arts
8 0 . 0
5.0
5. 0
Lip Care Stick, Slightly Tinted, with Pearly Gloss
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
Col orants:
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. A42-02
Lip Care Stick with Azulene
Cuti na LM
C eti ol SN
Azulene, purel y crys t. 100%
Formula No. A42-03
Lip Salve
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Formula NO. A42-04
P arts
8 0 . 0
10.0
0. 3
5. 0
P arts
85. 00
15.00
0.02
P arts
80. 0
20.0
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
110 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Formula No. P43-01
Lipstick, Creamy
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
Pigment col ors
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Formula No. P43-02
Lipstick with Pearly Gloss
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Piqment col ors
Cosmetic Ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P43-03
Lipstick, Creamy, With Pearly Gloss
P arts
85. 0
15. 0
4. 0
2 . 0
P arts
72. 0
18.0
3. 0
4. 0
P arts
75. 0
15.0
3. 0
1 . o
10. 0
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
Pigment col ors
Cosmetic Ti tani um di oxi de 300 309
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P43-04
Lip Make-up in Cream Form with Pearly Gloss
Cuti na LM
Myri tol 318
P i ament col ors
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Note: L i p gl oss: Due t o the hi gh o i l content, a f a t t y cream o f
t h i s type produces i ncreased l i p gl oss.
Formula No. P15-01
P arts
70. 0
20. 0
3 . 0
1 . o
10. 0
__- P arts
60. 0
40.0
1. 0
5 . 0
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Beauty Aids 111
Lipstick
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Carnauba
C andel i l l a Wax
Ozokeri te
Mi crocrys tal l i ne Wax
Mi neral O i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
Vasel i ne/P etrol atum
Wacker-Bel s i 1 SM 6018/Stearyl Methicone
F1 ui 1 an/Lanol i n O i 1
Castor O i l
Tegosoft 189/I sooctadecyl I sononanoate
Wacker-Bel s i 1 PDM 1000/Phenyl Dimethicone
Pigments
Fragrances, preservati ves, f l avours
Mix a l l i ngredi ents and mel t.
F ormul ati on 1212 AH
Lip Stick
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Carnauba
Candel i 11 a Wax
Ozo ker i t e
Mi crocrystal 1 i ne Wax
Mi neral O i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
Vasel i ne/ P etrol atum
B el s i l SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
F1 ui 1 an/Lanol i n O i 1
Castor O i l
Tegosoft 189/I sooctadecyl I sononanoate
Bel s i 1 DM 350/Di methi cone
Bel s i 1 BNP/Boron Ni tr i de
Pigments
P reservati ves, fragrances
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane
Mix a l l i ngredi ents and mel t.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: 8 weeks a t 45C.
F ormul ati on 778 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cones: Suggested F ormul ati ons
6 . OO%
5 - 50
6.50
1 . 50
5.50
3 - 00
5. 00
15. 00
31. 20
5. 00
3. 00
12.80
9 . s .
6.00%
6. 00
6.00
1 - 50
5, 50
3. 00
3. 00
15.00
35. 00
5.70
0. 50
10. 00
2. 80
9 . s .
112 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Foundation
LQF-102
I ngredi ents:
A: S teari c Aci d
I sopropyl Myri s tate
L i qui d P etrol atum
Cet ano 1
Butyl Parahydroxybenzoate
Col or P i gments
Amihope LL
B: Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
C : P ropylene Gl ycol
Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate
Water
D: Bentoni te (1%)
P reparati on:
I ) (A), (E ), and (C) are mixed a t 80C.
2 ) Add (E ), (C), t o ( A) .
3) Then add ( 0 ) t o the former mi xture.
4) Cool sl owl y t o 40C.
5) S t i r wi th homomixer f or 5 mi nutes.
6 ) Cool down t o 25C.
Powder Foundation
A . Tal c
S eri c i t e
M i ca
Magnesi urn S tearate
T i tan1 um Di oxi de
Amihope LL
Pigments
B. I s os teari c Aci d
Di methyl pol ysi loxane
Procedure:
1. Mix (A) wi th a speed mixer
2 . Add (6) t o ( A ) , and mi x.
3. Sieve them, and press.
W t %
3. 0
9. 0
1 . 5
1 . o
0. 1
8. 0
2. 0
1. 5
25. 0
5.0
0. 1
28. 8
15. 0
W t %
31 . O
30. 0
10. 0
1 . o
8. 0
10. 0
q. s .
4. 0
6. 0
Note:
Thi s powder foundati on has smooth touch and proper adhesion.
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
BeauiyAids 113
Long Wearing Creamy Lipstick
The l ong wearing characteri s ti cs o f t h i s l i p s t i c k are enhanced
by the use o f Cetyl Dimethicone i n the pigment gri nd. The
Behenoxy Dimethicone contri butes both t o gl oss and t o the
creamy texture. Th C24-28 Al kyl I s os tearate I sononanoate
provi des s l i p and emol 1 i ency.
Phase A :
Castor O i l 50. 05
Octyl S tearate (Tegosoft OS ) 3. 00
Cetyl Dimethicone ( Abi l Wax 9801) 1 . oo
Mi neral O i l 9. 00
Candel i 11 a Wax 4. 35
Carnauba Wax 3.00
Ozokeri te 3. 00
C24-28 Al kyl Methicone ( Abi l Wax 9810) 3. 15
Behenoxy Dimethicone ( Abi l Wax 2440) 2. 00
Lanol i n Al cohol 3.00
0. 05
~- I naredi ents: %w/w
BHA
Phase B:
Pigments
Cetyl Dimethicone (Ab
Castor O i 1
Phase C :
Ti tani um Di oxi de (and
Phase D:
Fragrance
P rocedure:
1 Wax 9801 1
3. 00
0. 40
4. 00
Mi ca 11 . oo
Q . S
Mel t par t A together a t 80C. Mi x. Gri nd the pigments o f
Phase B i nt o the o i l s and waxes o f Phase B usi ng a t r i p l e r o l l
m i l l . Add t o Phase A . Mi x a t 80C. Add Phase C . Cool t o 55C.
Add fragrance. Mol d.
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i on
Lip Gloss
Et2%
A- C 400 ( 1) 20. 0
Octyl S tearate (2) 52.0
Castor O i l 15. 0
L anol i n Al cohol ( 3) 5 . 0
Ol eyl Al cohol ( 4) 8. 0
P rocedure:
Combine a l l i ngredi ents and heat t o 85-9OC w i t h agi tati on
u n t i l the pol yethyl ene has compl etel y di ssol ved. Pour i nt o
molds and al l ow t o cool .
( 1) Al l i ed- S i gnal I nc.
(2) Henkel/Emery Corp.
( 3) Amerchol Corp.
(4) Croda I nc.
gl oss. I n addi ti on, it i ncreases the permanence o f the l i p
gl oss f i l m .
SOURCE: Al l i ed- S i gnal I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati on
A- C 400 i s the gel l i ng agent which provi des s t a b i l i t y and
114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Macroemulsion Cleansing Gel
I nqredi ent : Weiqht%
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 39.05
Pemulen TR-2 ( 1) (1. 0% s ol uti on)
9. 00
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose ( 2) (1% s ol uti on) 10.00
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
0. 90
Benzophenone-4 0. 02
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 03
P art B:
Mi neral
I sostea
P art C :
O i l (3)
y l Benzoate ( 4 )
Carbopo 980 ( 5) ( 2. 0% S ol uti on)
G1 yceri n
Hydrogenated S tarch Hydrol ysate (70%) ( 6)
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben ( 7)
3.00
3.00
30.00
2. 20
2 . 0 0
0. 80
( 1) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 2) Benecel MP943PR (Aqualon)
(3) Drakeol 7 (Penreco)
(4) F i nsol v SB (F i netex)
( 5) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(6) Hystar CG (Lonza)
(7) Germaben I 1 (S utton)
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO015
Beauty Aids 115
Macroemulsion Fragrance Pearl
I ngredi ent(CTFA) : Wei pht%
P art A:
Deionized Water 41 - 15
Pemulen TR-2 (1.0% S ol uti on) 7.50
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose (2) 1 0 . 0 0
Tet rasodi um EDTA 0.03
Benzophenone-4 0.02
T r i ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.20
Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(1 . O% S ol uti on)
(and) P ropylparaben (3) 0.80
P art B**:
Castor O i l
Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 4 )
Gl yceryl T r i behenate ( 5)
1 .80
1.80
0. 40
P earl escent Pigment (Ti tani um 0.10-0.20
Fragrance O i l 2.00
P art C :
Dei oni zed Water 15.00
Carbopol 981 (2. 0% S ol uti on) 1 5 . 0 0
Di oxi de/Mi ca-based)
P ropyl ene G1 ycol 2.20
Hydrogenated S tarch Hydrol ysate 2.00
(70% S ol uti on)
F uncti on
D i 1 uent
Emu1 s i f i er
Aqueous F i l m-
Former
Chel ant
U . V . Absorber
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservati ve
Fragrance
C arri er
Emol 1 i ent
O i l Phase
Vi sual Appeal
Thickener
Di 1 uent
Thi ckener/
Humectant
Humectant
S tabi l i z er
(1) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 2) Benecel MP943PR (Aqualon)
( 3 ) Germaben I 1 (S utton)
( 4 ) Nature Chem OHS (CasChem)
( 5) Syncrowax HR-C (Croda)
( 6 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
**Combine Castor O i l , Hydroxystearate, and Tri behenate es ters .
Heat t o 9OC. S l owl y cool t o ambient temperature wi th agi tati on,
then add pigment and fragrance.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co. : Formula PO016
116 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Make-Up Emulsion O/W Matting, Liquid
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin 81
Eutanol G
I sopropyl myri s tate
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P i gment col or
I 1 Aerosi l 200
Water
Set t o pH 7
Formula No. P21-01
Skin Emulsion, Tinted, With Pearly Gloss O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Chol esteri n
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P i gment col ors
I 1 Luvi skol K30
A1 1 antoi n
1 , 2- propyl ene gl ycol
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
I11 Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P22-01
%w/w
10.0
1 . o
4. 0
4. 0
3. 0
6.0
2. 0
70. 0
96w/w
3. 5
1. 2
2. 0
0. 5
3.0
2. 5
1. 5
0. 3
2. 0
1 . o
7 7 . 5
5. 0
Rouge Emulsion, Liquid O/W
sbw/w
Eumulgin B1 1. 5
Eumulgin 82 1. 5
I Cuti na MO 5. 0
Eutanol G
5. 0
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous 25.0
Vase1 i ne, whi te
3. 0
Pigment col ors
1.0
Cosmetic Ti tani um di oxi de 300 309 2 .o
I 1 Veegurn s ol uti on 5% 25. 0
Water 31 . O
P reparati on: The pigments are mixed wi th par t o f the f i ni s hed
emulsion, homogenized and s t i r r e d i nt o the r es t o f the emulsion
Formula No. P23-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Beauty Ai& 117
Mascara
F i r m cream.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Bel s i l SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane 5. 00%
B: Bel s i 1 PDM 200/Phenyl Di methi cone
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
Vasel i ne/P etrol atum
M i neral o i 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
C : Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
P i gment e/ (Co 1 our)
P reservati ves, perfume
4. 00
5. 00
19.00
5. 50
4. 10
6.00
41 .40
10 . oo
9 . s .
Mel t A at 60C, mix i n B whi l s t s t i r r i n g qui ckl y. Work i n C
homogeneously.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 212 AH
Mascara
Creamy.
A: Wacker-Belsil SM 6018/Stearyl Methicone
Wacker-Bel s i 1 PDM 200/Phenyl D i methi cone
Cetyl A1 coho1
S teari c Aci d
Vase1 i ne/ P etrol atum
Mi neral O i 1 (hi gh v i scosi t y )
B: T r i s Ami no/Tromethami ne
Water
5. 00%
4.00
5. 00
7. 00
3. 50
4. 50
0. 90
60.10
C . Pigments 10. 00
P reservati ves, Perfume q . s .
Mel t A a t 60C, add B wi th good agi tati on. S t i r pigments i nt o
AB homogeneously.
F ormul ati on 1214 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
118 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mascara
Soft, creamy, spreads easily.
I ns redi ents:
P art A:
B el s i l SM 6018
Bel s i l PDM 200
Cetyl Al cohol
d S teHri c AC
Vase1 i ne
P araf f i n o
P art B:
T r i s Amino
Water
P art C:
Pigment
1. vi scous
P ri s ervat i ve, Perfume
% by Weight
5. 00
4.00
5. 00
7.00
3.50
4.50
0. 90
60.10
10. 00
q . s .
F ormul ati on PF-OZ41E suggested by Rezepturen der Wacker-Chemie
GmbH, Munchen
Eye Gel
I ngredi ents:
P art A:
Cornfl ower extract
Matri cari a extract
Ami gel
P art B:
Dei oni zed water
Chamomi 1 e water
Cornfl ower water
P art C :
Bronopol
Methyl paraben (POBM)
Procedure:
Blend A . Add B and s t i r . Add C and s t i r .
P arts bv Weight
30. 00
30.00
20 * 00
SPF 1000
50.00
80.00
0. 50
1 . oo
F ormul ati on PF-0274E suggested i n Soap, Perfumery, Cosmetics;
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
October, 1993 i ssue
BeautyAids 119
Mild Facial Cleanser
I ngredi ents:
P ropylene G1 ycol
Butyl ene G1 ycol
Gl yceri n
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne F)
Di rnethi cone P ropyl PG-Betai ne (Abi 1 B 9950)
Menthol
Fragrance*
Sodium L actate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Gl yci ne (and)
F ructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I nos i tol
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L acti c Aci d ( L ac ti l )
P reservat i ves
Water
%w/w
2.00
1.50
0.75
1.50
2.50
0. 10
Q. S
0.20
Q. S
91.40
Procedure:
1. Mix a l l i ngredi ents i n order.
2. I f necessary, s ol ubi l i z e the preservati ves i n the P ropylene
Gl ycol and par t of the water.
*I f a non-water s ol ubl e fragrance i s used - i t can be s ol -
ubi l i z ed wi th the addi ti on o f PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate
(Anti 1 171) or PEG-20 Gl yceryl Laurate (Tagat L2)
Hot Oil Treatment
I ns redi ents :
Almond O i 1
Rose Hi p O i 1
Mi neral O i l
Cetyl Dimethicone ( Abi l Wax 9801)
Cetyl Dimethicone ( Abi l Wax 9814)
S tearyl Dimethicone ( Abi l Wax 9800)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8852)
Phenyl Tri methi cone ( Abi l AV-20)
Squalene
Capryl i c/ Capri c T ri gl yceri des (Tegosoft CT)
P reservati ves
Fragrance
Procedure:
Mix i ngredi ents i n order.
%w/w
15. 0
5. 0
56. 7
1. 0
0. 5
0.8
0. 5
2. 5
15.0
5. 0
Q. S .
Q.S.
SOURCE: Goldschrnidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
120 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Fluid
Pemulen TR-1 al l ows the ambient temperature emul s i f i cati on
o f t hi s l i ght- f eel i ng, gl ossy l oti on. S ui tabl e as a l i ght hand
l o t i o n or f ac i al moi s turi zer, t h i s product exudes a moi st,
nouri s hi ng f eel upon appl i cati on f ol l owed by a dry, l i ght af t er
f eel . pH i s about 5. 6.
I ngr-edient (CTFAJ : w El &t%
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul os e ( 1) 0. 10
P art A:
Dei on1 zed Water 83.70
G1 ycer i n
P ol ysorbate 80 ( 2)
4. 00
0. 40
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 10
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben ( 3) 0. 80
P art 8:
P ol ygl yceryl - 10 Decaoleate ( 4 ) 4. 00
Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 5) 3. 00
I s os tearyl Benzoate ( 6) 2. 50
Dimethicone (1000 c . s . ) 0. 50
Pemulen TR-1 (7) 0. 20
Carbopol 981 ( 8 ) 0.30
Funct i on
D i 1 uent
Aqueous Smooth
i ng Ai d
Humectant
P ar ti c l e S i ze
Chel ati ng Agent
- ____
Reduct i on
P reservati ve
Moi sture Bar r i er
Emol 1 i ent
mol 1 i ent
Lubri cant
Emu1 s i f i e
Thickener
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99"o) 0. 40 Neutral i z
Agent
( 1) Methocel E4M Premium (Dow Chemical)
( 2) Tween 80 (I C1 Americas)
( 3) Germaben I I E (S utton Labs)
( 4) Capmul 1OG- 10- 0 ( Capi tal C i ty P roducts)
( 5) Wickenol 171 (CasChem)
( 6) F i ns ol v S8 (F i netex)
( 7) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 8) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e f ormul ati on. Methocel i s added s l owl y wi th r api d
agi tati on,
2 . Combine P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . S of t lumps
o f Pemulen and Carbopol shoul d be di s rupted wi th mi xi ng.
3 . Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mi x f o r 15- 30
mi nutes t o al l ow polymers t o s wel l . Add P art C and mix vi gor-
ousl y t o produce a smooth, gl ossy l o t i o n.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co. : Formula PO008
Beauty Aids 121
Natural Cleanser
D i s t i 11 ed Water
P atl ac NAL
P ati oni c 138C
Pat i oni c 122A
Mi neral O i l
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Supersat AWS-4
Sodium Chl ori de (25%)
pH: 6. 1
Vi s cos i ty: 12,500 cps
Stabi 1 i t i e s :
4F: no change a f t e r 3 cycl es
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
1lOF: separati on af ter 2 weeks
Descri pti on o f System: mi neral o i l
no Ri tavena 5
Formula 1 14-6
Natural Cleanser
Di s t i l l e d Water
P atl ac NAL
Pat i oni c 138C
P ati oni c 122A
Ri tavena 5
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Supersat AWS-4
Kathon CG
5
75 I 50
0.50
8. 00
2 * 00
8.00
0. 50
3.00
0.20
0. 10
2. 00
0.20
80.50
0. 50
8. 00
2. 00
3. 00
0. 50
3.00
0. 20
0. 10
2.00
0.20
pH: 6.4
Vi s cos i ty: 30,500 cps
S tabi 1 i ti es :
4F: no change af ter 3 cycl es
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
l l OF : separati on af ter 3 weeks
Descri pti on o f System: no o i l
3% Ri tavena 5
Formul a 1 14-9
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Ri tavena 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
122 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Natural Cleanser
D i s t i 1 l ed Water
P atl ac NAL
Pat i oni c 138C
P ati oni c 122A
Corn O i l
Ri tavena 5
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Supersat AWS-4
Perfume
pH: 6. 3
Vi s cos i ty: 12,500 cps
S tabi l i ti es :
Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 cycl es
40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks
11OF: no change a f t e r 6 weeks
Descri pti on o f System: corn oi 1/2% Ri tavena 5
Foam Testi ng: Foam H20
0. 0 Mi nute: 120 95
1.0 Mi nute: 105 95
3. 0 Mi nutes: 105 95
Formula 1 1 1-207
Natural Cleanser
D i s t i 1 l ed Water
P atl ac NAL
Pat i oni c 138C
P ati oni c 122A
Ri tavena 5
Ri tapag 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Supersat AWS-4
Kathon CG
pH: 6. 4
Vi s cos i ty: 30,500 cps
S tabi 1 i ti es:
Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 cycl es
40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks
l l OF : separati on af ter 3 weeks
Des cri pti on o f System: no oi 1/3% Ri tavena 5
Foam Testi ng: Foam H20
0. 0 Mi nute: 200 90
1. 0 Mi nute: 200 100
3. 0 Mi nutes: 200 100
Formula 114-9
Wt%
73.50
0. 50
8. 00
2 .oo
8. 00
2.00
0. 50
3.00
0.20
0.10
2. 00
0.20
Wt%
80.50
0.50
8. 00
2.00
3. 00
0.50
3.00
0.20
0. 10
2.00
0. 20
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: RI TAVENA 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beauty Aids 123
Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5
I nqredi ents:
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water
2. P atl ac NAL
3. P ati oni c 138C
4. P ati oni c 122A
5. Corn O i l
6. Ri tapeg 150 DS
7. R i ta EGDS
8. Methylparaben
9. P ropylparaben
10.Supersat AWS4
P art 8:
11. Di s ti l l ed Water (1OOC)
12.Ritavena 5
P art C :
1 3. Perfume
14. P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on)
15.Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol uti on)
16. G1 vdant
Compounding Procedure:
2 mi nutes. Add t o mi xture. Mix u n t i l uni form. Begin cool i ng wi th
a pan o f col d water. Cool t o 120F. Add perfume. Mi x unt i l uni -
form, avoi d aerati on. Cool t o 9OF. Adj ust pH wi th P atl ac 44%
s ol uti on. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th Sodium Chl ori de 25% s ol uti on.
Formula 11 1-207
Heat P art A t o 165F wi th mi xi ng. Mix P art B i n a bl ender f or
Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5
I nqredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water 60.50
2. P atl ac NAL 0.50
3. P ati oni c 138C 8.00
4. P ati oni c 122A 2. 00
5. Ri tapeg 150 DS 0.50
6. R i ta EGDS 3. 00
7. Methylparaben 0.20
8. P ropylparaben 0. 10
9. Supersat AWS4 2.00
P art B:
10. D i s t i 11 ed Water (1 OOC) 20.00
11 . Ri tavena 5 3.00
P art C :
12. Perfume QS
13. P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on) QS
14.Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol uti on) QS
15.Kathon CG 0. 20
Compounding Procedure:
Heat P art A t o 165F wi th mi xi ng. Premix P art B i n a bl ender
f or 2 minutes. Add P art 8 t o P art A . Mi x u n t i l uni form. Cool t o
120F. Add P art C . Adj ust pH wi th P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on) . Adj ust
vi s cos i ty w i t h Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol uti on) .
Formula 11 4-9
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp.: RITAVENA 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
%w/w
63.50
0. 50
8.00
2. 00
8. 00
0. 50
3.00
0. 20
0. 10
2. 00
10.00
2. 00
QS
QS
QS
0 . 2 0
124 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Cleansing-Milk
Reci pe :
Hostaceri n DGL
0.50%
3.00%
1 .OO%
15.00%
8 . 0 0 %
2.00%
0.20%
0. 80%
69. 20h
q . s .
0.30%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-1 0 Laurate
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Cetyl a1 coho1
Mi neral o i 1 , hi gh v i scosi t y
C eti ol SN
Cetearyl I sononanoate
S ol ul an 98
P ol ysorbate 80 (and) Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetyl ated
Carbopol 980
Car bome r
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
Lanol i n Al cohol
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
111 S t i r 11 i nt o I .
V A t 35C add D t o I V
Formula A VI /4200
I V S t i r u n t i l cool
V I Homogenize '
i f necessary
Massage-Milk
Recipe:
A Hostaphat KL 340 N
T ri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral oi 1 , hi gh vi scosi t y
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Bel s i l 350
D i met h i cone
3.00%
5.00%
35.00%
12.00%
1 .OO%
0.20%
3. 00%
0.80%
39.70%
q . s .
0.30%
80
i n water)
ve
B Carbopol
Carbomer
C Gl yceri ne
NaOH (10%
Water
P reservat
D Perfume
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI / I 112
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Beauty Aids 125
O/W-Moisturizing-Milk
Reci pe:
A Hostaphat KL 340 N
Tri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i l , l ow vi s c os i ty
C eti ol V
Decyl Ol eate
Walnut o i l
I sopropyl i s os tearate
Anti oxi dant
B Carbopol 980
Carbomer
C Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodi um S al t
C i t r i c aci d (loo/, i n water)
G1 yceri ne
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
D Collagen KD
Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . IV S t i r u n t i l cool
V A t 35C add the components o f D t o I V.
VI Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI /3015
O/W-Skin Milk
Free of ethylenoxide
1 . OO%
4.00%
3.00%
4. 0D%
4.00%
4.00%
q. s .
0.30%
0.10%
0.25%
3.00%
1.20%
69.85%
q. s .
5. 00%
0.30%
_ _ ~ Recigg:
A Hostaceri n DGMS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S tearate
Mi neral o i l , l ow vi s c os i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Soya o i l
Anti oxi dant
B Carbopol 980
Carbomer
C Hostaceri n LSE
Sucrose Laurate
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
D Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t BOC, then add B. I 1
I 11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . IV
V A t 35C add D t o I V. VI
Formula A VI /1250
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations
2.00%
8.50%
5.00%
3. 50%
9 , s .
0 . 2 0%
2.50%
0.80%
77.20%
q.s.
0.30%
Heat C t o BOG.
S t i r u n t i l cool .
Homogenize i f necessary.
f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
126 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Skin Milk
Ret
A
B
C
D
i De:
Hostaphat KL 340 N
T ri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
I sopropyl pal mi tate
C eti ol V
Decyl Ol eate
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
Perfume
1.00%
4.00%
8.00%
4.00%
3.00%
0.25%
1 .OO%
78.45%
q. s.
0.30%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B . I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r unti 1 cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /1107
O/W-Skin Milk
Recipe:
Hostaceri n DGL
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-1 0 Laurate
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral oi 1, l ow vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Almond oi 1
Avocado o i l
Wheat germ o i l
Anti oxydant
Carbopol 980
Car bomer
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylenediamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
Perfume
1 .OO%
4.00%
5.00%
5.00%
7.00%
4.00%
2.00%
q . s .
0 * 20%
0.10%
0.25%
0.80%
4.00%
66.35%
q. s.
0.30%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
1 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool I
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI /1460
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
BeautyAids 127
O/W-Skin Milk
Recipe:
Hostaceri n DGL A
B
C
D
I
111
V
2.00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-1 0 Laurate
Hostaceri n DGS 4.00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Almond o i l 20.00%
Avocado o i l 6.00%
Wheat germ o i l 4.00%
Sesame o i l 5.00%
0-Panthenol 1 . OO%
Anti oxydant q . s .
Carbopol 980 0.20%
Carbomer
NaOH (10% i n water) 0.80%
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c. 0.10%
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water) 0.25%
A1 1 antoi n 0.20%
Gl yceri ne 4.00%
Water 52.15%
P reservat i ve q . s .
Perfume 0.30%
Mel t A a t 70C, then add B . I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
O/W-Skin Milk
Recipe:
Hostaphat KW 340 N
Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Shea Butter
C eti ol SN
Cetearyl I sononanoate
Walnut o i l
Almond o i l
J oj oba o i l
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Ca rbome r
A1 1 antoi n
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
i Mel t A a t 70C, then add 8. I 1
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. IV
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I
SOURCE: Hoec hs t : Formula A VI /1453 &
1 . OO%
3.50%
1 . OO%
6.00%
5.00%
4.00%
3.00%
9, s .
0.15%
0.30%
0.10%
0.25%
4.00%
0.60%
70.80%
q . s .
0.30%
Heat C t o 70C.
S t i r u n t i l cool .
Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /1302
128 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Skin Milk
Manufacturing at room temperature
Reci De :
A Hostaphat KL 340 N
T ri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh v i scosi t y
I sopropyl pal mi tate
B Carbopol 980
Ca rbome r
C Gl yceri ne
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
D Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mix A and B.
I 1 S t i r C i nt o I.
I11 Add D t o 11.
I V Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI/1101
O/W-Skin Milk
Manufacturing at room temperature
Recipe:
A Hostaceri n DGL
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 Laurate
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Almond o i l
Wheat germ o i l
C eti ol SN
Cetearyl I sononanoate
Anti oxydant
P ol yacryl i c Aci d-Sodi um S al t
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
B PNC 400
C Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
D Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mix A and B.
I 1 S t i r C i nt o I.
I11 Add D t o 11.
I V Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI/1461
3.00%
10.00%
5.00%
0.45%
3.00%
1.80%
76.45%
q . s .
0.30%
2.00%
4.00%
5.00%
1 .OO%
8.00%
q . s .
0.40%
0.10%
0.25%
78.95%
q . s .
0.30%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Gu i d e F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Beauty Aids 129
Powder Cleanser
(PW-102)
Amisoft LS-I 1
Ami s of t CS-11
Tal c
Sorbi to1
S tarch
A1 1 antoi n
Paraben
Procedure:
Mi x each i ngredi ent .
pH 5. 0 f o r a l wt % s ol uti on
Powder Cleanser
(PW-302)
Ami s of t LS-11
Ami s of t CS-11
Tal c
Sorbi to1
Starch
A1 1 antoi n
Par a ben
Procedure:
M i x each i ngredi ent .
pH 5. 0 f o r a I w t % s ol uti on
Powder Cleanser
(PW-502)
Ami s of t LS-11
Ami s of t CS-11
Tal c
Sorbi to1
Starch
A1 1 antoi n
Paraben
P rocedure:
M i x each i ngredi ent ~
pH 5. 2 f or a I wt % s ol uti on
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Wei aht%
11. 5
3. 5
15.0
20. 0
49. 7
0 . 2
0. 1
Weight%
23.0
7. 0
10.0
20. 0
39. 7
0. 2
0. 1
Wei qht%
38. 0
12.0
10. 0
20. 0
19.7
0. 2
0. 1
130 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-102)
Ami s of t LS-11
Ami s of t CS-11
Tal c
Sorbi to1
S tarch
A1 1 antoi n
Paraben
Procedure:
Mi x each i ngredi ent I
DH 5. 0 f o r a 1 wt % s ol uti on
Ami s of t
Ami s of t
Tal c
Sorbi t o
S tarch
A1 1 anto
Paraben
n
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-302)
LS-11
cs-11
Procedure:
Mix each i ngredi ent .
pH 5.0 f o r a 1 wt % s ol uti on
Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-502)
Ami s of t LS-11
Ami s of t CS-11
Tal c
Sorbi to1
S tarch
A1 1 antoi n
Paraben
Procedure:
Mi x each i ngredi ent.
pH 5.2 f o r a 1 wt % s ol uti on
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
WtO/o
11.5
3.5
15.0
20.0
49.7
0.2
0.1
u
23.0
7.0
10.0
20.0
39.7
0.2
0.1
Wt%
38.0
12.0
10.0
20.0
19.7
0.2
0.1
Beauty Aids 131
Pressed Powder
Wt %
A. Talc 45.0
N y lon Powder 15 .0
S eri ci te 15 .0
Mi ca 5.0
Mag n esi u m Stearate 1.0
T i t a n i u m D i o x i de 3 .0
Pi g m en ts q.s.
B. Isosteari c Aci d 3.0
Di m eth y lp o ly si 1 o x an e 3.0
C. A m i h o p e LL 10 .0
Procedu re:
1. Mi x ( A) f or 10 m i n . w i t h a speed m i x er.
2. Add (B) to (A), and mix for 10 m i n .
3. Add (C) to #2, and mix for one m i n .
4. S i ev e th em , and press.
Note:
The pressed powder has smooth and l i g h t touch.
Face Powder with Amihope LL
wt %
A. Talc q . s to 100
Lau roy l Ly si n e* 5-30
Mag n esi u m Stearate 2.5
Prop y lp arab en 0.05
B u ty lp arab en 0.05
Pi g m en ts ( Ti tan i u m D i o x i de, Iron O x i des, U ltra-
m ari nes, etc.) q.s.
B. Captex 300** 1 .0
Frag ran ce q.s.
Ch arg e all phase A i n g redi en ts i n to ap p rop ri ate b l en der an d
m i x . Com b i n e phase B l i q u i ds and spray or add to b len di n g phase
A. After m i x i n g i s com p lete, p u l v eri z e w e l l . V ery smooth feel
w i th good sk i n adh esi on .
* A m i h o p e LL ( Aji n om oto US A, In c.)
* * C ap ri c/ C ap ry li c T ri g l y c eri des ( Cap i tol C i ty Products)
SOURCE: Aji n om oto USA, Inc.: Suggested Fo rm u lati o n s
132 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder
A . Tal c
Nylon Powder
S eri ci t e
Mica
Magnesium S tearate
T i tani um Di oxi de
Pigments
8. I s os teari c Aci d
Di methyl pol ysi loxane
C . Amihope LL
Procedure:
1. Mix (A) f or 10 min. wi th a speed mi xer.
2. Add ( 8 ) t o (A), and mix f o r 10 min.
3. Add (C) t o #2, and mix f or one mi n.
4 . Si eve them, and press.
Note:
Thi s pressed powder has smooth and l i g h t touch
Liquid Foundation
I nqredi ents:
( A) S teari c aci d
I sopropyl Myri s tate
L i qui d P etrol atum
Cetanol
Butyl Parahydroxybenzoate
Col or Pigments
Amihope LL
( B) Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
( C ) P ropylene Gl ycol
Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate
Water
(D) Bentoni te (1%)
P reparati on:
1) (A), ( B) , and (C) are mixed at 80C.
2) Add ( B ) , (C), t o ( A) .
3) Then add (D) t o the former mi xture.
4 ) Cool sl owl y t o 40C.
5) S t i r wi th homomixer f or 5 mi nutes.
6) Cool down t o 25C.
Formula LQF-102
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
W S
45. 0
15. 0
15. 0
5. 0
1 . o
3 . 0
q . s .
3. 0
3. 0
10.0
Wt%
3. 0
9. 0
1. 5
1 . o
0. 1
8. 0
2. 0
1. 5
25. 0
5. 0
0. 1
28. 8
15. 0
BeautyAids 133
Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL
T-01-11-1
Phase A :
Tal c
Lauroyl Lysi ne*
Mica
Magnesi um S tearate
P ropylparaben
Butyl paraben
Pigments
Phase 6 :
Capri c/Capryl i c T ri gl yceri des
Perfume
Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL
T-01-11-1
Phase A:
Tal c
Lauroyl Lysi ne*
Mica
Magnesium S tearate
P ropylparaben
Butylparaben
Pigments
Phase 6:
Capri c/ Capryl i c T ri gl yceri des
Perfume
Weight%
30.00
5. 00
3 . 0 0
0. 05
0. 05
Q.S. t o 100
Q . S .
3 . 0 0
Q . S .
Beinh-tl".
10. 00
5. 00
3. 00
0. 05
0. 05
Q . S . t o 100
Q . S .
3. 00
Q.S.
Manufacturi ng Procedure:
bl ender, ri bbon bl ender, etc . ) and mi x.
add t o the mix, depending on equipment bei ng used). Af ter
complete mi xi ng, pul veri z e wel l . Press i nt o pans.
Charge Phase A i ngredi ents i nt o appropri ate bl ender (tumbl e
Combine Phase B l i qui ds and spray ( wi th spray nozzl e o r
Thi s formul a i s very smooth and has good s ki n adhesion.
*Ami hope-LL by Aj i nomoto
SOURCE: Ajinornoto USA, I nc. : Formula T-01-11-1
134 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL
We1 qht%
Mica (Coated)* 20. 00
Lauroyl Lysine** 10. 00
P ropylparaben 0. 05
Butyl paraben 0. 05
Pigments (FD&C, D&C, I r on Oxides, Ultrarnarines,
A . Tal c q . s . t o 100
T i tan1 urn Di oxi de) q. s
Magnesi um S tearate 2. 00
B . Dimethicone
Captex 300***
Perfume
2. 50
1 . 50
q. s
Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL
We1 &htob
Mica (Coated)* 20. 00
Lauroyl Lysi ne** 40. 00
P ropylparaben 0. 05
Butyl paraben 0. 05
Pigments (FD&C, D&C, I r on Oxides, Ul tramari nes,
A . Tal c q. s . t o 100
T i tan1 um D i 0x1 de) 4 . s .
B . Dimethicone
Captex 300***
Perfume
2. 50
1 . 50
4. s .
Charge phase A i ngredi ents i nt o appropri ate bl ender and mi x.
Combine phase B and spray or add t o bl endi ng phase A . Af ter
mi xi ng i s complete, pul veri z e wel l . P ress i nt o pans. Very smooth
touch and good s ki n adhesion. Good pres s i ng character? s t i c s .
Durable cake.
* Mica (Coated) may be s ens i ti ve t o gri ndi ng. I f so, do not
pul veri z e Mica (Coated) through f i n e screen.
** Amihope LL (Aj i nomoto Co., I nc . )
*** Capri c/ Capryl i c T ri gl yceri des ( Capi tal C i ty P roducts, I nc . )
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Su g g es t ed F ormul ati ons
BeautyAids 135
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow
(Pearlescent Type)
I nqredi ents:
(1) Bentoni te (NF grade)
(2) Mearlin-AC
(3) Kaopol i te TLC
( 4) Zi nc S tearate ( f i ne ground)
(5) Magnesium Carbonate
(6) Acetol
(7) P ol ysorbate 20
(8) Dei oni zed Water
P reservati ve
% by Weiaht
5. 0
35.0
29.0
8. 0
1 . o
3. 0
9. 0
10. 0
q . s .
Procedure:
thoroughl y mix (6), (7), and (8). Then sl owl y add t h i s mi xture
t o the dry mi x. Screen through a No. 16 si eve and press.
product used.
Dry mi x (I), (2), ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , and ( 5) . I n separate tank,
F ol l ow recommended handl i ng practi ces o f the s uppl i er o f each
Face Mask
(2) Bentoni te (NF grade)
(3) Kaol i n USP
(4) I sopropyl Al cohol
(5) L anol i n (P EG 50)
( 6) Gl yceryl S tearate (Emerest 2000)
( 7) Dimethicone (DOW Corni ng 200)
(8) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence)
(9) Methyl Paraben
(1 0 ) P ropyl Paraben
I ngredi ents:
(1) Dei oni zed
% by Wei&
Water 36.7
8. 0
40.0
10.0
0. 5
1. 5
1. 5
1.5
0. 2
0. 1
Procedure:
Add (2) t o ( 1) and heat t o 90CI add (9) and (10) unt 1
di ssol ved. Add ( 5 ) , (6), ( 7 ) , and ( 8) . Cool and add ( 4) wi th
good mi xi ng u n t i l di spersed. Add (3) and conti nue hi gh peed
mi xi ng u n t i l compl etel y uni form.
each product used.
flammable i ngredi ents.
F ol l ow recommended handl i ng practi ces of the s uppl i er of
Good i ndus tr i al practi ces shoul d be used when handl i ng
SOURCE: Kaopolite, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
136 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Re-Vital Facial Toner
p/,w/w
S ol ul an 98 (P ol ysorbate 80 (and) Cetyl Al cohol (and)
Acetyl ated L anol i n Al cohol ) 3. 00
Fragrance 0. 20
SD Al cohol 40 30.00
Dei oni zed Water 61 .10
A1 1 antoi n 0.20
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Ac ds (and) Acetamide MEA) 5.00
P ro-Tein ES-20 (E thyl E ster o f Hydrolyzed Col l agen) 0.50
The above formul a may be modif ed i n the f ol l owi ng ways:
1. I ncrease SD Al cohol f or deeper cl eansi ng, more dryi ng ef f ec t.
2 . By addi ti on o f herbal extracts such as Rose Water, chamomile
3. By addi ti on o f essenti al o i l s such as menthol & eucal yptus (3)
(soothi ng) ( 4) , soap bark extract ( as tri ngent) ( 3) .
f o r odor and cool i ng ef f ec t, gi nger & lemon (3) f or odor and
f ac i al f eel .
Pre-mix S ol ul an 98 & Fragrance. Add SD Al cohol 40 t o the
mi xture. Add the r es t o f the i ngredi ents i n order. Mix u n t i l
each i s di ssol ved.
s ki n wi th a heal thy, s of t af ter - f eel . Aqua-Tein C, a superb
humectant, adds s ki n softeni ng and soothi ng properti es , whi l e
reduci ng the harshness o f the al cohol . P ro-Tein ES-20,
a cati oni c ester, l eaves a protecti ve, smooth f i l m and serves
as an a nt i - i r r i t a nt .
Formula #ST-3251
Mi l d f aci al toner which cl eans and ti ghtens , but l eaves the
Sun-Rise Fresh Cleansing Gel
A . Dei oni zed Water
Sodium C14-16 Ol ef i n S ul fonate
Bw/w
27.50
40. 00
Monami d 150-LW (Laurami de DEA) 3. 50
Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate 6 . 0 0
Supro-Tein V (TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (and)
Sorbi to1 ) 10. 00
Amino S i l k SF ( S i l k Amino Aci ds) 3.00
European E l asti n- 30 (Hydrol yzed E l as ti n) 3. 00
B. Ammonium Chl ori de 2.00
Dei oni zed Water 5. 00
Fragrance, P reservati ves, Col or q . s .
C i t r i c Aci d q. s. t o pH=6.5
1. Warm Phase A t o 50C. Mix u n t i l mel ted & homogeneous.
2. Adj ust pH whi l e warm t o pH=6.5.
3. P redi ssol ve NH4C1 i n water. Add c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d a i r
entrapment I
A mi l d cl eansi ng gel , non- dryi ng t o the s ki n. Smoothes and
softens s ki n whi l e removing excess s ki n o i l and desquamating
s ki n c e l l s . To use-moisten hands, pour i nt o palm and work up
i nt o a creamy l uxuri ous l ather. Massage s ki n i n a c i r c ul ar motion
wi th the moi sture- l aden foam, then ri ns e thoroughl y and dry.
The af ter- f eel o f the s ki n i s a l l softness and sheer del i ght.
Formula #SW-3007
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
BeautyAids 137
Rouge Compact Powder
Lanette 0
Eutanol G
Ethyl al cohol 96%
Magnesi um s tearate
Kaol i n
Ri ce s tarch
Magnesi um carbonate
Tal c
T i tani um di oxi de
Pigment col ors
P arts
6. 75
3.75
4.50
2. 50
17.00
5.00
2. 00
57.00
5. 00
11.50
Note: Thi s fat/pi gment mi xture i s compressed t o form so- cal l ed
The rouge i s appl i ed by means o f a penci l o r a l i t t l e brush.
By varyi ng the col orants accordi ng t o the cake make-up, t h i s
rouge formul a can be modi fi ed f o r use as eye shadow, face
powder, etc .
Formula No. P81-01
cakes.
Rouge Stick
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment co
Cosmetic T
Formula No
or s
tanium col ors 300 309
P42-01
Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P42-02
Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss
Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
Pigment col ors
Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115
Formula No. P42-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
P arts
85. 0
15. 0
3. 0
2. 0
P arts
72. 0
18. 0
4. 0
6. 0
P arts
73.0
18. 0
3. 0
15. 0
138 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sand Beige Oil-Free Makeup
Phase A:
D i s t i 11 ed water
P ropylene gl ycol
PEG 200 s tearate
Tri ethanol ami ne 99%
T r i sodi um EDTA
Veegum magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e
Sodium carboxy methyl cel l ul os e gum
Phase B:
Di s t i l l e d water
Eastman AQ treated pigment-red
Eastman AQ treated pigment-yellow
Eastman AQ treated pigment-black
Eastman AQ treated pigment-white
Phase C :
Tal c
DC3225C cyclomethicone and dimethicone copol yol
S teari c aci d
Polawax emul s i f yi ng wax, NF
Myverol 18-06 d i s t i l l e d monoglyceride
Tween 80 pol ysorbate 60
P reserve as necessary.
P rocedure:
Phase A:
1. Sl owl y s pri nkl e Veegum i nt o water whi l e mix
2. Continue mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
3. Sl owl y s pri nkl e sodium carboxy methyl c el l u
4. Continue mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
5. Add remaining i ngredi ents of (A) and mix we
whi l e mi xi ng.
ng .
ose
1.
%w/W
30.00
8- 00
1 .oo
0.90
0.20
1 . oo
0.25
30.85
0.40
0.80
0.16
6.64
5.00
9-00
1.80
1 .oo
2.00
1- 00
nto water
Phase B:
1. Heat water t o 85C, add pigments and mix u n t i l wel l di spersed.
2. Add t o P art A and heat combined phases t o 70C.
Phase C :
1. Combine i ngredi ents and heat wi th mi xi ng t o 70C.
2. A t 70C, add t o P arts A and 8 wi th mi xi ng.
3. Continue mi xi ng and cool t o room temperature.
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: F ormul ati on X2113Q-087
Beauty Aids 139
Silk and Elastin Facial Firming Gel
A. Dei oni zed Water
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
European E l asti n- 10 (Hydrol yzed E l as ti n)
Carbomer 940 - 2% Aq, Sol n.
Di sodi um EDTA
B. T r i ethanol ami ne-99%
C . S i l k P ro-Tein (Hydrolyzed S i l k)
Camomile E xtract
Bi ocare SA (Albumen and Hyal uroni c Aci d and Dextran
P reservati ves
FD&C Y el l ow #5 (I f desi red)
S ul f ate)
%w/w
51.60
5.00
0. 50
40. 00
0. 20
0.50
2. 00
0.10
0.10
q. s .
9.53.
P ropert i es :
Revives, smoothes and moi sturi zes t i r e d complexions. Moi st,
supple s ki n i s more el as ti c and youthful l ooki ng. Oi l - f ree
formul a rehydrates the s ki n wi th v i t a l el as ti n and s i l k protei ns
and Hyal uroni c Aci d.
Procedure:
t o avoi d a i r entrapment. Add Phase C . Mix t o i ncorporate.
Formula #SK-2050
Add Phase B t o Phase A . Mix u n t i l gel l ed and cl ear. Mix sl owl y
Honey & Wheat Hydrating Facial/Body Gel
Dei oni zed Water
Wheat-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n)
Honey
Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl Betai ne)
Sipon ESY (Sodium Laureth-1 S ul f ate
Monamate CPA-40 (Di sodi um Cocami do MI PA-Su1 fo-
Monamate 71 6 (Laurami de DEA)
Kessco PEG 6000 Di stearate (PEG-150 Di stearate)
Honey Fragrance
Quaterni urn-1 5
Amber Col or
succi nate)
%w/w
62.90
3.00
1 . oo
5. 00
20.00
5.00
2.00
0. 50
0.30
0. 30
q. s .
Procedure:
Heat phase A wi th mi xi ng t o 70C. Mix u n t i l PEG-150 DS i s
mel ted and homogeneous. M i x and cool t o 50C. Add 8. Mix t o
i ncorporate.
P ropert i es :
Honey and wheat protei n are i ncorprated i n t h i s formul a t o
moi sturi ze and hydrate the s ki n. Thi s bath gel i s gentl e enough
t o use as a f ac i al and/or body wash. Opaci fyi ng/ pearl i ng agents
can be added f or a pearl escent l ook.
Formula #SW-3008
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
140 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Conditioning Treatment
(Formula 90-0502)
Water Phase:
Hi-Care 1000
Gl yceri ne
Water
A1 kamuls GMS
O i l Phase:
Cetyl Al cohol NF
L i ght Mi neral O i l
% BY Weight
0.50
2.00
87.40
3. 50
1.60
1.50
Dermalcare N I 1.00
A1 kamul s MM/M 0. 50
S teari c Aci d TP 2.00
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve P . S .
Bl endi nq Procedure: Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel fol l owed
by the Gl yceri ne. Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end
i n Hi-Care 1000. Heat water system t o 70-75C. S l owl y bl end Al ka-
muls GMS i nt o heated water base. Mai ntai n 70-75C temperature.
I n a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine O i l Phase i ngredi ents
and heat t o 70-75C u n t i l compl etel y mol ten. Wi th rapi d but
smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end heated O i l Phase i nt o heated
Water Phase. Once system i s compl etel y uni form, cool t o 40-45C
w i t h moderate agi tati on and add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s) and
P reservat i ve .
l oti on, a f t e r standi ng 24 t o 48 hours.
The formul ati on w i l l reach i t s f i na l consi stency, a s of t
Skin Conditioning Bath & Shower Gel
(Formula 91-1110)
% By Weight
J aguar C-162 0. 3
Mi racare MPC 40.0
C i t r i c Aci d P . S .
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve P . S .
Sodium Chl ori de 0.05-0 I 60
Water 59.3
Bl endi ng Procedure: Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, di sperse
J aguar C-162 i n room temperature water. Once system i s uni form,
heat water system t o 35-40C and then adj ust pH t o 5. 0- 6. 0 wi th
C i t r i c Aci d as needed. Sl owl y bl end i n Mi racare MPC and mix
u n t i l uni form. Again, adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5. 0- 6. 0 wi th
C i t r i c Aci d as needed. Add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and
P reservati ve and then adj ust formul ati on vi s cos i ty t o 14,000-
18,000 cps (No. 5 S pi ndl e @ 10 RPM-25C) wi th the j udi ci ous
addi ti on o f Sodium Chl ori de as needed.
Appearance @ 25C: C1 ear, V i scous L i qui d
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 14,000-18,000 CPS
pH :
5. 0- 6. 0
% Non Vol ati l es : 15-17
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S Deci al ti es: Formulas
Beauty Aids 141
Skin Emulsion, Matting O/W as Foam Aerosol
u
I Emulgade F 1 . oo
Emulgade F Spec. I .oo
C eti ol V 1 . oo
S i egert S teari n L 2SM 3.00
Wool f a t , anhydrous 0. 50
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 1 . oo
Bori c aci d 0. 25
Tri ethanol ami ne 0. 25
Water 92.00
F i l l i ng: 92 parts emulsion
Note: Due t o the bori c aci d content, the packaging o f the
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
f i ni s hed preparati on must bear the i ns c r i pti on "Not t o
be used f o r baby care" i n accordance wi th the German
cosmeti cs l egi al ati on.
Formula No. A71-01
Nutritive Emulsion, Fat O/W as Foam Aerosol
w
I Emulgade F 4. 0
Eutanol G 15.0
Vegetable o i l 15. 0
Water 46.0
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 10. 0
I11 Cremogen wi tch hazel extract 10.0
F i l i ng: 92 parts emulsion
P reparati on: Phase I11 i s added t o the r es ul ti ng emulsion at 40C.
Formula No. A71-02
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foaming Cucumber J uice Emulsion O/W Aerosol-Packed
I Cuti na MD
%g-&
4. 0
Eumulgin B1 1. 5
Eumulgin 82 1. 5
C eti ol V
4. 0
Myri tol 318 5. 0
I I Water
81 . O
I11 Extrapon cucumber spec. 3. 0
F i l l i ng: 92 parts emulsion
P reparati on: Phase 111 i s added t o the r es ul ti ng emulsion a t
Formula No. A71-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
approx. 40C.
142 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Emulsion O/W with Placenta Extract
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P l acenta l i qui d, oi l - s ol ubl e
%w/w
6. 0
1. 5
1. 5
10. 0
5. 0
5. 0
2. 5
I I Water 68. 5
Formula No. A22-01
Skin Emulsion O/W with Vitamin
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 16
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
Ceti ol LC
C eti ol S
V i tapl ant CLR, o i 1 - sol ubl e
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
I I I V i tapl ant CLR, water- sol ubl e
Formula No. A22-02
Skin Emulsion O/W
I Cuti na CBS
F or l ani t E
Eumulgin B1
Ceti ol V
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I1 Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
Formula No. A21-14
SOURCE: Henk el KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formul ae
%w/w
5. 0
2. 0
1. 5
1. 5
12.0
4. 0
2.0
5. 0
65. 0
2. 0
%w/w
7. 00
0. 50
2. 00
5.00
5. 00
0.09
80.41
I
I 1
Beauty Aids 143
Skin Emulsion O/W With Collagen
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Myr i tol 318
I sopropyl pal mi tate
l I 2- propy1 ene gl ycol
Water
%w/w
9. 0
1. 5
1.5
10. 0
5. 0
5.0
5. 0
58.0
I11 Collagen 5. 0
Note: pH s etti ng 3.7 t o 6. 5
P reparati on :
Formula No. A22-03
Phase I11 i s added t o the r es ul ti ng emulsion a t approx. 35C
Cucumber J uice Emulsion O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
I 1 Water
I11 Extrapon cucumber spec.
P reparati on:
Formula No. A22-04
Phase I11 i s added t o the r es ul ti ng emulsion a t 40C.
Herbal Emulsion O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol LC
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Arni ca o i l CLR
Calendula o i l CLR
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. A22-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Water
%w/w
8. 0
3. 0
3. 0
5. 0
78.0
3. 0
%w/w
8.0
1. 5
1.5
8. 0
4 . 0
3.0
3.0
5. 0
66.0
144 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Gel
Thi s gel i s a l i ght , greaseless moi s turi zer which exhi bi ts
s parkl i ng c l a r i t y and qui ck appl i cati on.
I ngredi ent: Weight% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 83.30 Di 1 uent
Gl yceri n 2.50 Humectant
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrol ysate 2.50 Humectant
Methylparaben 0.10 P reservati ve
Carbopol 980 ( 2) 0.60 Gel l ant
P art 8:
Dei oni zed Water 10.00 Di l uent
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.50 Neutral i z i ng
DMDM Hydantoin (3) 0.30 P reservati ve
PVP (K30) 0.10 Condi ti oner
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 05 Gel P rotectant
(1) Hystar CG (Lonza)
(2) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(3) Glydant (Lonza)
P reparati on :
1. Using agi tati on, di s s ol ve methylparaben i n a mi xture of the
f i r s t three P art A i ngredi ents . When s ol uti on i s homogeneous,
s l owl y s i f t Carbopol 980 i nt o the vortex o f the agi tated
s ol uti on. When res i n i s dispersed, reduce agi tati on and mix
u n t i l a homogeneous di s pers i on i s obtai ned.
homogeneous.
produce a cl ear gel .
( 70%) (1)
Agent
2. I n a separate vessel , bl end P art B i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l
3. Using paddle-type agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix t o
Formula COO1 9
Skin Gel
Thi s gel i s a l i ght , greaseless moi s turi zer which exhi bi ts
s parkl i ng c l a r i t y and qui ck appl i cati on.
Weiaht% F uncti on
I nqredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
G1 yceri n
Methylparaben
Carbopol 980 ( 1
P art 8:
Deionized Water
T r i ethanolami ne
DMDM Hydantoin
PVP (K30)
D i sodi um EDTA
Benzophenone-4
Col or
(99%)
2)
83.30
5.00
0.10
0. 60
10.00
0.50
0.30
0.10
0. 05
0. 05
q.s.
Di 1 uent
Humectant
P reservati ve
Gel 1 ant
D i 1 uent
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservat i ve
Condi ti oner
Gel P rotectant
Gel P rotectant
Col orant
(1 ) Carbomer (BFGoodri ch)
(2) Glydant (Lonza)
Formula COO32
SOURCE: BF Goodrich: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beauty Ai& 145
Skin Hydrating Moisture Trap
%w/w
A . Dei oni zed Water 43.30
S orbi tol - 70% 2. 00
Gl yceri n 2.00
Carbopol 934, 2% Aq. Sol n. (Carbomer 934) 35.00
Methylparaben 0.30
P ropylparaben 0. 15
Tetrasodi um EDTA 0. 05
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 55 (Hydrol yzed Col l agen) 2.00
B. Acetul an (Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetyl ated L anol i n
A1 coho1 ) 5. 00
Sesame O i l 4. 00
Maywax P (E mul si fyi ng Wax, N . F . ) 2.50
Arl acel 165 (Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100 S tearate) 1. 00
Proto-Lan E* 1.50
Lanol i n Al cohol 0. 50
C . Triethanolamine-99% 0. 70
*( L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrolyzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosine (and) Sesame O i l (and)
L anol i n Al cohol )
Procedure:
1. Heat Phases A and B separatel y t o 70C.
2. Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 70C wi th adequate mi xi ng.
3. Add Phase C immmediately. Mi x t o i ncorporate.
4. Mix and cool t o 35C.
P roperti 8s :
emol l i ent, but not greasy. A good al l - around hand and face
l oti on. P roto-Lan 8 i s an excel l ent non-greasy, protecti ve
emol l i ent, based on natural l y occurri ng essenti al f a t t y aci ds
and l i po- protei ns . Maywax P i s an ef f i c i ent, non- i oni c s el f -
emul si fyi ng wax. Collagen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 55 i s a non-
occl usi ve f i l m former which moi sturi zes and protects the s ki n.
SOURCE: Maybrook Inc.: Formula #SK-2023
A l i ght, creamy, ni ce l ooki ng and s tabl e emul si on. Hi ghl y
146 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
C eti ol or Eutanol G318
Myri tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Formula No. A31-01
C eti ol LC
Myri tol 318
I sopropyl P al mi tate
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Formula No. A31-02
Skin Oil
Skin Oil
Skin Oil
C eti ol LC
Myri tol 318
I sopropyl P al mi tate
O i l of St. J ohn's wort CLR
Carrot o i l CLR
Formula No. A31-03
Skin Care Oil
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
V i tami n oi 1 Bi ocorno
O i l o f S t . J ohn's wort CLR
Carrot o i l CLR
Formula No. A31-04
%w/w
40.0
35.0
20. 0
4. 0
1 . 0
Functional Skin Oil
Eutanol G
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Myri tol 318
Epidermin i n o i l
Wheat germ o i l spec.
Formula No. A31-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
30.0
30.0
40.0
%w/w
25.0
30.0
25. 0
20.0
%w/w
20.0
45.0
30.0
3. 0
2. 0
%w/w
40.0
30.0
27.0
0. 5
2. 5
BeautyAids 147
Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid With Microcapsules
Thi s i s a f l u i d contai ni ng attr ac ti ve moi s turi z i ng beads i n
a l i ght , greaseless aqueous base which exhi bi ts s parkl i ng
c l a r i t y and smooth f eel .
I ngredi ent: Wei aht%
P art A :
Dei oni zed Water 83.35
G1 yceri n 2. 50
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrol ysate
(70%) (1) 2.50
Carbopol 981 ( 2) 0. 25
P art B:
Dei oni zed Water 10.00
Sodium Hydroxyrnethyl Gl yci nate ( 3 ) 0.30
Methylparaben 0.10
P VP (K30)
D i sodi um EDTA
Benzophenone-4
0.10
0.05
0.05
P art C:
Mi neral O i l i n Gel ati n Microcapsules (4) 0.80
( 1) Hystar CG (Lonza)
( 2) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(3) S uttoci de A (Sutton Labs)
(4) Red and Bl ue Nuggets (Ronald T . Dodge Co.)
P reoarati on:
F uncti on
D i 1 uent
Humectant
Humectant
P reservati ve
Gel l ant
D i 1 uent
Neutral i zi ng
Condi ti oner
Gel P rotectant
Gel P rotectant
Agent/P reservati ve
Moi s turi z i ng
Agent
1. Using agi tati on, di s s ol ve methylparaben i n a mi xture o f the
f i r s t three P art A i ngredi ents. When s ol uti on i s homogen-
eous, s l owl y s i f t Carbopol 981 i nt o the vortex o f the
aai tated s ol uti on. When r es i n i s di spersed, reduce agi tati on
di s pers i on i s obtai ned.
P art B i ngredi ents . Mix u n t i l
and mix u n t i l a homogeneous
2. I n a separate vessel , bl end
homogeneous.
3. Using paddle-type agi tati on
produce a cl ear f l ui d.
4. Using paddle-type agi tati on
u n t i l microcapsules are we1
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formu
add P art B t o P art A. Mi x t o
add P art C t o neutral i z ed f l u i d
di spersed.
a COO35
148 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sports Gel
Colourless gel with a slightly greasy effect
Materi al /CTFA-Index:
A: Mi neral O i l , hi gh vi s cos i ty
Wacker-Belsil SM 601B/Stearyl Methicone
50.00%
3. 00
8: Camphor 5.00
C: Wacker HDK Hl d/ S i l i ca 7 - 0 0
Methyl S al i cyl ate 5.00
D: Wacker-Belsil DM 0.65/Dimethicone 30.00
Col ours q . s .
Heat A t o approx. 60C, mix B i nto A . Add C, work D i nt o ABC.
Formul a t i on 1291 / 2 AH
Body Powder
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Bel si 1 BNP/Boron Ni tr i de
HDK N 2O/Si 1 i ca
HDK H 20/ S i l i ca
Tal c
Starch
Kaol i n
Magnesi um S tearate
Bentone 38/Quaternium-18 Hectori te
8: I sopropyl Myri s tate
Perfume
5.00%
2 . 5 0
2.50
4. 00
30.20
10. 00
1 . oo
1 . oo
6 . 0 0
1 . BO
P i grnents q . s .
Mi x A wel l , add B i n porti ons , homogenize thoroughl y.
F ormul ati on 1056 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Beauty Aids 149
Sprayable-Moisturizer
Thi s novel moi s turi zer i s a pumpable product which provi des a
f i ne spray f o r qui ck and easy appl i cati on. It i s an i deal af ter
bath al ter nati ve t o greasy baby o i l .
I n R red i en t( C T F AL
P art A:
Dei on1 zed Water
Gl yceri n
DMDM Hydantoin (1)
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
P art 8 :
Mi neral O i l ( 2)
Octyl dodecyl S tearoyl s tearate (3)
Oleth-10 ( 4 )
Pemulen TR-2 ( 5)
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
D i sodi um EDTA
We13 n_t Oh
79.83
6. 00
0. 30
0. 10
0. 05
10.00
3.00
0. 40
0. 12
0. 10
0. 10
F unctj gn
D i 1 uent
Humectant
P res ervati ve
P reservat i ve
P res ervati ve
Moi sture Bar r i er
Emoll i ent
P ar ti c l e S i ze
Reduction
E mul s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
Chel a t i ng Agent
and Vi s cos i ty
Adjustment
(1) Glydant (Lonza)
( 2) Drakeol 7 (Penreco)
( 3) Ceraphyl 847 (Van Dyk)
( 4 ) B r i j 96 ( I C1 Americas)
( 5) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolyrner ( 8F Goodrich)
P reparati on:
1 . Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e f ormul ati on. Parabens may be predi spersed i n
gl ycer i n t o accel erate di s s ol uti on. Mix unt i l parabens
have di ssol ved.
di s rupt any s of t agglomerates o f Pemulen.
10-15 minutes t o al l ow res i n t o s wel l . Add P art C and use
vi gorous mi xi ng t o produce a smooth, whi te emulsion. Add
P art D i ncremental l y unt i l a vi s cos i ty o f 600-900 cps i s
obtai ned.
2 . Combine P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Mix t o
3 . Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix f or
SOURCE: BF Goodri ch Co.: Formula PO010
150 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sprayable Moisturizing Milk
Thi s l i ght , mi l ky whi te, low vi s cos i ty emulsion del i ver s a
f i ne mi s t from a pump sprayer and provi des a s i l k y f eel i ng t o
the s ki n.
I ngredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
NaOH (18%)
P art B:
P ropylene Gl ycol I soceteth- 3
Pemulen TR-2 (2)
Gl ycerol T ri i s os tearate (3)
I s os tearyl I s os tearate (4)
Cyclomethicone (5)
Fragrance (6)
Acetate (1)
Weight% F uncti on
70.45 Di 1 uent
0.15 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
10.00 Humectant
0.15 E mul s i f i er
4.00 E mol l i ent
4. 00 Emol 1 i ent
10.00 Lubri cant
0. 20
P art C :
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i d i nyl 1.00 P reservati ve
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben ( 7 )
P art D:
D i sodi um EDTA 0.05 Chel ati ng Agent
(1) Hetester PHA; Bernel Chemical Co., I nc.
(2) Acryl ates/ClO-30 A1 kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer; BFGoodri ch
(3) P ri s ori ne GTIS; Unichema I nternati onal
( 4 ) P ri s ori ne I SI S; Unichema I nternati onal
(5) Dow Corning 344 F l ui d; Dow Corning Corp.
(6) Novi l l e #27986; Novi l l e, I nc.
(7) Germaben 11- E ; Sutton Laboratori es, I nc.
P rocedure:
1. Combine P art B i ngredi ents a t room temperature i n a vessel
which w i l l contai n the f i nal product, breaki ng up any
agglomerated par ti c l es .
2. Add P art A t o P art B and mix usi ng rapi d agi tati on f o r
15 minutes.
3. Add P art C t o the emulsion.
4. Use P art D t o adj us t vi s cos i ty downward t o a' range o f 600
P ropert i es :
cps t o 1000 cps.
Appearance: Mi l ky White
Vi s cos i ty: 910 cps*
pH: 6. 0
S t abi l i t y: No separation-10C t o 25C F i ve cycl es
*Brookf i el d RVT 20 rpm s pi ndl e #2
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO041
35 Days (50C) vi s cos i ty 840 cps*
BeautyAids 151
Stick for Skin Impurities
Lanette 16
Cuti na BW
s/aw/w
5 . 0
30.0
Cuti na CP 20.0
Eutanol G 25. 0
P araf f i n oi 1, hi gh vi scous 9. 2
Powder col orant 3. 0
Menthol 0. 3
S ul f ur, preci pi tated 2. 0
Bacteri ci de 0. 5
Zi nc oxi de 5. 0
P reparati on :
i s di ssol ved i n the f a t mel t. Zi nc oxi de, s ul f ur and powder
col orant are then added. A t a temperature o f approx. 40C, the
compound i s r o l l e d several ti mes, mel ted agai n and cas t i n
moulds. I t i s advantageous t o cool the moulds s l i ght l y.
Formula No. C41-01
The f a t t y substances are mel ted on the water bath and menthol
Stick for Skin Impurities
Cdti na LM
C eti ol LC
Eutanol G
Menthol
Bacteri ci de
S ul f ur, preci pi tated
Zi nc oxi de
Powder col orant
Formula No. C41-02
46w/w
70. 2
8.0
8 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 5
2 . 0
5 . 0
6 . 0
Emulsion, Liquid, for Skin Impurities O/W
%W!L!_W
I Lanette N/ S X 3. 0
Me I? t h o 1 0. 3
Bacter i c 1 de 0. 5
S al i c yl i c aci d 0. 4
Ti tani um di oxi de 2. 0
P i gment col or 1 . o
I 1 Bi oschwefel - F l ui d 2. 0
Water 90.8
P reparati on:
Pigment col or, ti tani um di oxi de and s ul f ur are mixed wi th
15 parts water and twi ce r ol l ed. The r es t o f the water i s added
and heated t o approx. 70C. Lanette N i s mel ted on the water bath
at 70C and menthol as wel l as s a l i c yl i c aci d are di ssol ved i n
?ne f a t m e l t . The aqueous phase i s then added and af ter b r i e f
s t i r r i n g the emulsion produced i s homogenized several ti mes by
r ec i r c ul ati on.
Formula No. C21-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
152 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vitamin E and Wheat Active Daily Facial Moisturizer
A. Dei oni zed Water
Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S ol ' n (Carbomer 940)
Wheat-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n)
Tween 20 (P ol ysorbate 20)
P etrol atum
Wheat Germ O i l
Sesame O i l
Cetyl A1 coho1
Arl acel 165 (Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Shea Butter
T r i ethanol ami ne-99%
P reservati ves, Fragrance
B. Arl acel 60 (S orbi tan S tearate)
C . Tocopheryl Acetate
Procedure:
Heat Phases
wi th agi tati on
aerati on.
P roperti es :
Thi s elegan
l eavi ng a s of t
%w/w
45.40
35.00
3.00
1.50
1 . 50
2.00
2 .oo
3. 00
1 . oo
S tearate) 1. 00
3. 00
1 . oo
0.10
1 . oo
9.s.
A & B separatel y t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t 8OC
Mi x u n t i l smooth. Add Phase C c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d
, vegetable-based moi s turi z er rubs i n compl etel y,
af ter f eel , Vegetable o i l s and P etrol atum normal-
i z e the s ki n l i pi ds . Wheat-Tein NL bi nds moi sture and l eaves a
non- occl usi ve protecti ve f i l m . Vi tami n E Acetate acts as an
anti oxi dant t o reduce f ree radi cal s i n the s ki n.
Formula #SK-2010
Gelled Makeup Remover
Mi neral O i l , L i ght
P araf f i n Wax (143/145)
Ozokeri te Wax #E71 Beaded
P etrol atum
P ropyl Paraben
Cami l o1 (A1 pha-Bi sabol ol )
Proto-Lan 8
Vi tami n E
Fragrance
Col or: Red dye i n Neobee M-5 q. s .
P rocedure:
Mix and cool . Add Fragrance & Vi tami n E. F i l l o f f
P roperti es:
gel l ed form.
Formula #SW-3240
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Mel t a l l components together except Fragrance
A mi l d and soothi ng oi l - based make-up remover
%w/w
80. 9
6. 5
9. 5
2. 0
0. 1
0. 2
0. 5
0. 1
0. 2
t o l i g h t pi nk
nd Vi tami n E .
n conveni ent
Beauty Aids 153
Water-in-Oil Luxurious Makeup
Thi s formul a i s a col d process water- i n- oi l emulsion stab-
i l i z e d by Veegum which al s o control s the vi s cos i ty and i nsures
uni form col or throughout the product. Thi s i s a moi s turi z i ng
makeup f or dry s ki n.
I naredi ent :
A: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i cate
Dei oni zed Water
Magnesi um S ul f ate
B: Tal c
Vancl ay , Kaol i n
T i tani um Di oxi de
I r on Oxides
C : Mi neral O i l
Hydrogenated P ol i sobutyl ene (P ol ysynl ane)
M i neral O i 1 (and) Lanol i n A1 coho1 (Ri tachol )
I sopropyl Lanol ate (and) L eci thi n (Lanapene)
Sorbi to1 , 70%
Oleamide DEA (Witcamide 511C)
W t .%*
1. 20
37. 90
0. 40
5. 50
1. 50
5.00
3 , O O
15. 00
8. 00
8 . 0 0
7. 00
5.00
2 I 50
D: P reservati ve q . s .
Procedure:
Sl owl y add Veegum t o the water, whi l e agi tati ng a t maximum
avai l abl e shear. Continue mi xi ng u n t i l smooth. Add the magnesium
s ul f ate and mix u n t i l smooth. Gri nd P art B and add t o P art A,
mi xi ng u n t i l uni form. Add P arts At8 t o P art C . Mix u n t i l
uni form and smooth. Add P art D and mix unt i l uni form.
*As recei ved basi s
SOURCE: R , T . Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Veegum i n Col or Cosmetics:
Formula No . 332
Protective Skin Gel
I naredi ents:
A: L i qui d l anol i n f r ac ti on
Ethoxyl ated Lanol i n wax
Mi neral o i l
Ol i ve o i l , USP
Arl acel 80
Butyl ated hydroxytol uene
%w/w
12. 00
2. 50
50.48
20. 00
5. 00
0. 02
B: Col 1 oi dal s i 1 i con di oxi de 10. 00
Procedure:
Heat (A) wi th s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Remove heat and add
( B) wi th hi gh shear agi tati on. M i l l i f necessary at room temper-
ature.
SOURCE: I C 1 S urfactants: Suggested Formula
154 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O-Cleansing-Milk
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n WO 2.00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 Sesqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax (and)
Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i 1 (and) MaQneSi um
S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
Arl acel 989
PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor O i l
Amerchol L-101
Mi neral O i l (and) L anol i n Alcohol
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh v i scosi t y
Eutanol G
Octyl dodecanol
Tocopherol acetate
B-Carot i n
B Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
D-Panthenol
Sodium chl ori de
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 8OC.
I 1 S t i r the s ol uti on o f B i nt o I a t room temperature.
111 S t i r u n t i l cool .
I V A t 35C add C t o 111.
Formula A VI/4300
W/O-Skin Milk
Recipe:
4 Hostaceri n WO
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S esqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax
(and) Mi crocrys tal l i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i l
(and) Magnesium S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
Arl acel 989
PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor O i l
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Eutanol G
Octyl dodecanol
B Sodium chl ori de
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A at 8OC.
I 1 S t i r the s ol uti on o f B i nt o I a t room temperature.
I11 S t i r unt i l cool .
I V A t 35C add C t o 111.
Formula A VI/2202
2.00%
3.00%
15.00%
10.00%
0 ; 50%
q. s .
0.10%
0.25%
0.50%
2.00%
64.35%
q. s.
0.30%
2.00%
2.00%
15.00%
5.00%
5.00%
2.00%
68.70%
q . s .
0.30%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Section V
Creams
155
156 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Cream with Soluble Collagen
A. Dei oni zed water
Veegum K (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i cate)
Ami no C ol l agen-25 ( C ol l agen Ami no Aci ds)
P ropylene Gl ycol
Gl yceri n
8. Methylparaben
%w/w
68.50
1 .DO
0.20
2. 00
3.00
2.00
C . Arl acel 165 (Gl yceryl S tearate and PEG-100 S tearate) 2. 00
P etrol atum 1 . oo
Cetyl Al cohol 2. 00
Dow Corni ng 200 F l ui d (Dimethicone) 0. 20
P ropylparaben 0. 10
Maywax P (E mul si fyi ng Wax, NF) 3.00
P ol ysorbate 80 1.50
F i nsol v TN (C12-15 al kyl benzoate) 3.00
D. L acti c Aci d, 88% 4. 00
E . Tri ethanol ami ne 99% 1.50
F . Col l agen Nati ve E xtra 1% (S ol ubl e Col l agen) 5. 00
Procedure:
Di sperse Veegum i n water. Heat t o 80C. Add 8 t o A . Heat C
t o 80C. Add C t o A/8 at 8OC. Mi x and cool t o 60C. Add D. Add E .
Adj ust pH as necessary t o 3. 5 t o 4. 0 wi th TEA. Mix and cool t o
30C. Add F .
P roperti es:
texturi z es the s ki n. Appears t o di mi ni sh f i ne f ac i al l i nes .
Helps t o rej uvenate the s ki n f o r a more youthful appearance.
Col l agen Nati ve E xtra 1% and Amino Collagen-25 act t o hydrate
the s ki n and al s o reduce f i ne f ac i al l i nes . P l easant, non-
greasy, fragrance f ree.
Note: Avoi d contact wi th eyes, eyel i ds or mucous membranes.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #SK-2100
Thi s Alpha Hydroxy Cream gentl y exf ol i ates , smooths and re-
Creams 157
Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream
An el egant whi te creamy emulsion del i veri ng Rovisome-AHA
( L acti c Aci d) t o the s ki n.
I naredi ents:
1. R i ta Cetearyl Al cohol ( 5 0 / 5 0 )
2. Steareth- 2
%w/w F uncti on
2 I 50 Emul s i f i cati on
2.50 Emul s i f i c ati on
3. Steareth-21 1.50 E mul s i f i cati on
4. PPG-15 S tearyl Ether 3.00 E mol l i ent
5. Di octyl Adi pate 3.00 E mol l i ent
6. Di octyl cycl ohexane 2.00 Af ter Feel
7. Cyclomethicone (Dow DC 245) 2.00 Spread
8. Dimethicone ( A b i l 300) 0.50 Feel
9. Hybri d Sunflower Seed O i l 4.00 E mol l i ent
11.1,3 Butyl ene Gl ycol 4.00 Coup1 i ng
12.Xanthan Gum ( K el trol CG-T) 0.30 S t a bi l i t y
13. Rovi some-AHA ( L acti c A c i d) 6. 00 Liposome
14.Methyldibromo Gl utar oni tr i l e and
Compounding Procedure:
Di sperse i tem 12 i n water and butyl ene gl ycol mi xture. I n
separate beaker heat i tems 1-9 t o 70C. Heat water phase t o 70C
and add t o o i l phase. Then homogenize and cool t o 35C. Add
Rovi some and preservati ve.
Ref. No. 119-121
10. O i s t i 11 ed/Deioni zed Water 68.40 ----
Phenoxyethanol 0.30 P reservati ve
Anti-Ageing Treatment Cream
An emul s i f i er f ree formul a wi th Rovisome ACE designed t o
provi de nourishment t o s ki n t o hel p el i mi nate wri nkl es .
I nqredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1. R i ta Cetearyl Al cohol ( 5 0 / 5 0 ) 1.00 F atty Emoll i ent
2. Babassu O i l 5.00 Feel
3. Pol ydecene 10.00 Coati ng
4. Cetearyl I sononanoate 5.00 Dry Time
6. Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate
Crosspol ymer (Pemul en TR-1) 0 . 4 0 S tabi 1 i t y
7 . Tetrasodium EDTA 0. 10 S t a bi l i t y
8. Gl yceri ne 5. 00 Humectant
9. Methyldibromo Gl utar oni tr i l e (and)
10.Sodium Hydroxide 8 10% q . s . pH Control
11. Rovi some ACE ( V i tami n 81 end) 6.00 Nouri shment
Compounding Procedure:
separate beaker heat i tems 1-4 t o 60C and add t o water phase
under s t i r r i ng. Then homogenize. Neutral i z e t o pH 6.2-7.0
wi th i tem 10. Cool t o 35C. Add premixed 8,9 and 11.
Ref. No. 119-122
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Sk i n Care Formulary
5. Di s t i 1 1 ed/Dei on? zed Water 67.20 ----
Phenoxyethanol 0.30 P reservati ve
Di sperse i tem 6 i n water. Add i tem 7 and heat t o 60C. I n a
158 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balanced Emollient Cream
I npredi ent:
1 Eumulain 82
%w/w
3.0
2 C eti oi SN 10.0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 2.2
6 P reservati ve q . s .
7 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves an O/W emol l i ent cream.
The f i r s t f i v e components are melted together a t about 85C.
3 C eti ol SB45 5. 1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 477
Replenishing Emollient Cream
I ngredi ent:
%w/w
1 Eumulgin 82 3.0
2 Cegesoft 624 10. 0
3 C eti ol SB45 5.1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 2. 2
6 P reservati ve 4 , s .
7 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves an O/W emol l i ent cream.
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 478
Hand and Body Cream
I npredi ent:
%w/w
1 Eumulgin 82 3. 0
2 C eti ol A 10.0
3 C eti ol S045 5. 1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 2. 2
6 P reservati ve q . s .
7 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves an O/W emol l i ent cream.
The f i r s t f i v e components are melted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 479
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 159
I nqredi ent:
1 Eumulain 92
Balanced Emollient Cream
"/ow/w
3. 0
2 C eti oi LC 1 0 . 0
3 Novata AB 5. 1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
5 L orol C16 1. 1
6 Lorol C18 1. 1
7 P reservat i ve 4 . s .
8 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an excepti onal l y smooth O/W emol l i ent
cream.
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 480
Light Cleansing Cream
I naredi ent :
1 Eumulgin 82
2 R i l ani t PC
3 Novata AB
4 Monomuls 60-35
5 Lorol C16
6 Lorol C18
7 P reservati ve
8 Water
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W emol l i ent cream.
The f i r s t s i x components are melted together a t
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 481
3. 0
10. 0
5. 1
5. 0
1 . I
1. 1
9 , s .
t o 100. 0
about 85C.
o i l phase.
di spersed.
Replenishing Moisture Cream
I nqredi ent:
%w/w
1 Cuti na FB25 4. 0
2 Cuti na CBS 8. 0
3 Eutanol G
11 . o
4 P araf f i n o i l 5. 0
5 KOH (20%) 1. 5
6 Gl yceri ne 5. 0
7 P reservat i ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t four components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 5 & 6 are di ssol ved i n the water, which i s then
heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 482
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
I60 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Barrier Cream
I ngredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
G1 yceri n
- %
34.50
25.00
Phase 8:
P etrol atum, White 25.00
P roduct SE-100 (Gl yceryl S tearate & PEG-100 S tearate) 6.00
Hest MS (Myri sty1 S tearate) 3.00
Hetol CS (Cetearyl Al cohol ) 2. 50
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 2.50
Phase C :
Germaben I 1
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 5.75
Appearance: White, heavy non- fl owabl e cream
Procedure:
1) I n separate s tai nl es s s teel kettl es , add Phase A and Phase B
2) A t 75C, add Phase B t o A and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
3) Cool t o 45C, whi l e mi xi ng and add Phase C . Mi x wel l .
Formula HC93-115-3
and heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
Moisture Cream
I ngredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Hetoxi de G-26 (Gl ycereth- 26)
Phase B:
Hest MS ( Myri s tyl S tearate)
Hest IS-2-0 (I sosteareth- 2 Octanoate)
Hetoxol D (Cetearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth-20)
Phase C :
Germaben I 1
- %
76.00
4.00
4.50
9. 00
5.50
1 .oo
P rocedure:
1) I n separate s tai nl es s s teel kettl es , add Phase A and Phase 9.
2) Heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
3) Add Phase B t o Phase A. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
4) Cool t o 40C and add Phase C. Mix u n t i l uni form.
Formula HC 93-118-5
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc . : Suggested Formulas
Creams 161
Body Cream
Materi al /CTFA-Index:
A : Tegi naci d/ Gl yceryl S tearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.00%
I sopropyl Myri s tate 1 .oo
Bel si 1 DM 35O/Dimethicone 1 .oo
Mi neral O i l , low vi s cos i ty 4.00
Lanette O/Cetearyl Al cohol 1- 00
B: Water 73.50
G1 ycer i ne 1. 50
C: Bel s i 1 CM 040/Cyclomethicone 10.00
Bel s i l BNP/Boron Ni tr i de 2.00
P reservati ves, fragrances, perfumes q . s .
Heat A and 8 each t o 65-70C, s t i r B i nt o A, s t i r C i nt o AB.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 912 AH
Emollient Cream
White firm cream, easily spread
Mater i a1 /CTFA-Index :
A: Arl acel 165/Gl yceryl S tearate se
A r l amol E/PPG-l5 S tearyl Ether
Cetyl Al cohol
Wacker- Bel si l PDM lOOO/Phenyldimethicone
Wacker-Belsil SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy
Di methyl si l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane
B: Sorbi to1 70%i ge Lsg/Sorbi to1
Water
P reservati ve, fragrances, pigments
Heat A t o 70C, heat B t o 72C. S t i r B i nt o A.
F ormul ati on 709 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i
(0) L i qui d P araf f
Cetyl Al cohol
N i kkol WCB
i cone :
n (#70
Suggested F ormul ati ons
Hand Cream
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Gl yceryl Monostearate ( S el f Emu1 s i f yi ng Type)
P ol yoxyethyl ene (20) Cetyl Ether
Water
P reservat i ve
(W) Aj i dew N-50
Procedure:
1. Heat (0
2. Add ( W)
3. Cool t o
pH: 5.2
SOURCE: A j
and (W) t o 80C.
and (0) sl owl y wi th s t i r r i ng.
40C wi th s t i r r i ng.
5.00%
3. 00
5- 00
2. 50
2. 50
10.20
71.30
q . s .
10 . Owt%
5. 0
5. 0
5. 0
2. 9
2. 1
3. 0
67.0
q . s .
nomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested F ormul ati on
162 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Care Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eurnulgin 82
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: F atti ng, medium s of t consi stency
Formula No. A12-04
Universal Care Cream O/W
I Cuti na MO
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
Note: Medi um- fatti ng, s of t consi stency
Formula No. A12-05
Care Cream O/W
I Lanette 16
S i egert S teari n LPSM
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
Cuti na BW
Wool f a t , anhydrous
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
i I Hf ~i kel gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Tri ethanol arni ne
Water
xw/ w
16. 0
1. 5
1. 5
10.0
10.0
5. 0
56.0
18. 0
1. 5
1. 5
20. 0
5 . 0
5. 0
1 . o
48.0
s/ow/w
1. 5
12. 0
12. 0
6. 0
2. 0
3. 0
5. 0
6. 0
1. 5
51 . O
Note: F atti ng, medium s of t consi stency, par ti c ul ar l y easy t o
Formula No. A 12-06
a w l Y
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 163
Cleansing Cream
Thi s f ormul ati on i s a dual purpose makeup remover and s ki n
condi ti oner.
Phase A :
Myverol 18-06 hydrogenated soy gl yceri de
S teari c aci d, USP/NF
P etrol atum, USP
Drakeol 9 mi neral o i l
I sopropyl myri s tate
SF 18 ( 3 5 0 ) s i l i cone f l u i d (di methi cone)
Phase 6:
Di s t i l l e d water
P ropylene gl ycol , USP
Tri ethanol ami ne 99%, USP
Phase C:
Eastman vi tami n E 6-81 ( vi tami n E acetate)
Phase D:
Fragrance
P reservati ve
? W/ w
6. 00
4. 00
10. 00
10. 00
10. 00
2 . 0 0
9, s . t o 100
5. 50
0. 70
0 . 3 0
q.s
q . s
Procedure:
1. Combine i ngredi ents and heat Phase A and Phase B separatel y
t o 80C, mi xi ng unt i l each phase i s uni form.
2. Add Phase B t o Phase A wi th propel l er mi xi ng.
3. Continue mi xi ng and s l owl y cool t o 50C.
4 . Add Phase C wi th mi xi ng and when
5. Continue mi xi ng and cool t o room
6. Adj ust agi tati on speed throughou
I nvers i on w i l l occur a t 32C, and
and whi te.
pH: 7. 71
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co. : Formu
uni form add Phase D.
temperature.
process as needed.
cream w i l l become smooth
a t i on X21139- 007
164 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cream
( 0 ) L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
P etrol atum
Beeswax
Lanol i n A1 cohol
P olyoxyethylene ( 5) Gl yceryl I s os tearate
P olyoxyethylene ( 5) S tearyl Ether
P ol yethyl ene Gl ycol (500) Di s tearate
S orbi tan Mono1 aurate
S orbi tan Monooleate
A1 umi num Monostearate
( W) Aj i dew N-50
P ropylene G1 ycol
Water
P reservati ve
P rocedure:
1 . Suspend a1 umi num monostearate t o 1 i qui d paraf f i n.
2. Add other (0) i ngredi ents t o the suspension.
3. Heat (0) t o 95C t o di s s ol ve.
4. Heat ( W) t o 85C.
5. Add ( W) t o (0) sl owl y wi th s t i r r i ng.
6. Cool t o 40C wi th s t i r r i ng.
pH: 5. 1
Cleansing Cream
( 0 ) L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
P ar af f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
Squalane
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Cetyl A1 cohol
Ni kkol WCB
S orbi tan Monostearate
Pol yoxyethyl ene ( 1 5) Cetyl Ether
(W) Aj i dew T- 50
Water
P reservati ve
P rocedure:
1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C.
2. Add ( W) t o ( 0 ) sl owl y wi th s t i r r i ng.
3. Cool t o 40C wi th s t i r r i n g
pH: 5. 7
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested Formulations
Wt%
21. 0
5. 0
10. 0
1. 7
4. 0
2. 5
1. 6
0. 2
0. 4
2. 0
3. 0
3. 0
45. 6
q. s .
Wt%
35. 0
10. 0
2. 0
3. 0
1 . o
10. 0
2. 4
2. 6
3. 0
31 . O
a . s .
Creams 165
Cleansing Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin 61
3 Cuti na MD
4 C eti ol MM
5 S i pol 16 18 C50
6 Myr i tol 318
7 P ar af f i n o i l
8 White S of t P araff
9 P reservati ve
10 Water
..
' 1 n
%m
1.5
1.5
3. 0
5.0
3. 0
8. 0
11 . o
14.0
t o 100.0
q . s .
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a r i c h moi s turi s i ng O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t ei ght components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase
i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 30C.
The product w i l l onl y achieve i t s optimum vi s cos i ty, i f
mi xi ng i s conti nued u n t i l the product has cool ed down.
Formula TS 491
Cleansing Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin B1
3 Cuti na MD
4 C eti ol MM
5 S i pol 16-18 C50
6 Myr i tol 318
7 P ar af f i n o i l
8 White S of t P ar af f i n
9 Gl yceri ne
10 P reservati ve
11 Water
%w/w
1.5
1. 5
3. 0
5.0
3.0
8. 0
11 . o
14.0
5. 0
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a r i c h moi s turi s i ng O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t ei ght components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 9 i s di ssol ved i n the water, and t h i s mi xture i s then
heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added t o
the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o
about 30C. The product w i l l onl y achieve i t s optimum vi s cos i ty,
i f mi xi ng i s conti nued unt i l the product has cool ed down.
Formula TS 492
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
166 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cream O/W
I Lanette 16
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol LC
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Water
Formula No. 811-01
Cleansing Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
Vasel i ne, whi te
I 1 Water
Formula No. 811-02
Cleansing Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesi um sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. 611-03
Washing Cream O/W
I Lanette N/ SX
Eutanol G
I1 Comperlan KM
Texapon CS P aste
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Fomula No. 812-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
2.0
14.0
1. 5
1. 5
7.0
15. 0
59.0
%w/w
20. 0
10.0
10.0
20.0
40.0
%w/w
12.0
3 5 . 0
15.0
2. 0
5 . 0
0.3
30.7
8 . 0
5 . 0
10. 0
10.0
0. 1
66.9
Creams 167
Cream for Skin Impurities O/W
I Lanette N/SX
S al i c yl i c aci d
Menthol
Bacter i c i de
Ri ce s tarch
Powder col orant
Ti tani um di oxi de
S ul f ur, preci pi tated
%w/w
15. 0
0. 4
0. 3
0. 5
5. 0
1 . o
2. 0
2. 0
I 1 Water 73.8
P reparati on:
mixed wi th 15 parts water and twi ce r ol l ed. The remai ni ng water
i s heated together wi th above mi xture t o approx. 70C. Lanette N
i s mel ted on the water bath a t 70C and menthol and s a l i c yl i c
aci d are di ssol ved i n the f a t mel t. The aqueous phase i s then
added and af ter br i e f s t i r r i n g the cream produced i s homogenized
several ti mes by reci rcul ati on.
Formula No. C11-01
Ri ce starch, powder col orant, ti tani um di oxi de and s ul f ur are
Cream for Skin Impurities, Transparent, in Gel Form O/W
I Eumulgin 83
C eti ol HE
Eutanol G
Menthol
Bacteri ci de
I 1 Al l antoi n
Water
%w/w
14.0
20.0
5.0
0. 1
0. 2
0. 2
60. 5
Procedure:
Eumulgin 83 and the f a t t y substances are mel ted on the water
bath a t 95C and menthol i s di ssol ved i n the f a t mel t. The water,
i n which al l antoi n has been di ssol ved ear l i er , i s al s o added t o
the f a t mel t a t a temperature o f 95C. The gel produced i s cool ed
whi l s t s t i r r i n g and the perfume i s added a t 60C. S t i r r i ng i s
conti nued whi l e the gel i s cool i ng down, but shoul d be termi n-
ated af ter a short whi l e t o avoi d a i r pockets. I n order t o
obtai n a gel wi th the desi red transparency, it i s essenti al
t o observe the temperature s peci f i ed.
Formula No. C11-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
168 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream with Placenta Extract W/O
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
Beeswax
Vegetable o i 1
P l acenta l i qui d, o i l sol ubl e
I 1 Water
Formula No. A15-04
Rejuvenating Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
I sopropyl Myri s tate
V i tami n oi 1
P1 acenta 1 i q u i d , o i 1 - sol ubl e
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Set pH t o 7
Note: S of t consi stency, easy t o appl y
Formula No. A15-05
Skin Cream O/W with Collagen
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
I 1 1,2-P ropylene gl ycol
Water
I I I C ol l agen
%w/w
3 0 . 0
7 . 0
2. 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
5 3 . 0
%w/w
12. 0
1 . o
10.0
6. 0
4. 0
3. 0
5. 0
59. 0
sbw/w
16.0
3. 0
10. 0
5. 0
61.0
5. 0
Note: pH s etti ng 3. 7 t o 6.5
P reparati on: Heat I t o 75C, s t i r I 1 i n t o I a t approx. 80C.
Formula No. A15-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Add I11 t o the cream a t 35C.
Creams 169
Day Cream
Soft cream with good absorption and non-greasing properties.
Materi al CTFA-Index:
A: Eumul i i n B2/Ceteareth-20 5 . OO%
Lanette N/Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl
S ul f ate 4 - 00
S teari c Aci d 12 - 00
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 3 .80
Wacker-Bel s i 1 Dh4 350/Dimethicone 4. 00
Wacker-Belsil SM 6018/Stearyl Methicone 5.00
8: Gl yceri ne
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
4.00
0. 80
61.40
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments 9. s .
Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B i nt o A
F ormul ati on 1362 AH
Day Cream
Cream with good absorption and non-greasing properties.
Materi auCTF A- I ndex: -
A: Eumulgi n B2/Ceteareth-20 5.00%
Lanette N/Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl
S ul f ate
S teari c Aci d
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol
Wacker-Belsi 1 DM 350/Dimethicone
Wacker-Belsil SM 6018/Stearyl Methicone
Eusolex 6300/Methylbenzylidene Camphor
4.00
12.00
3.80
4 , O O
5,OO
2.50
B: Gl yceri ne 4.00
Tri ethanol ami ne 0.80
Wacker-Belsi 1 DMC 6038/Dimethicone Copolyol 2.00
Water 56.90
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances q. s.
Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B i nt o A .
F ormul ati on 1399 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
I70 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Day Cream
Soft white cream with a silky shine. Absorbed quickly
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: S teari c Aci d
6: P ropylene Gl ycol
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
C : Ethanol 96%i g/Al cohol (Cosmetic grade)
B el s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone
Bel s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
14.00%
6.00
1.50
72.50
2. 50
1 .50
2. 00
q . s .
Mel t the s tear i c aci d a t approx. 65-70C, mix B and heat t o
approx. 70C. Work A i nt o B whi l s t s t i r r i n g qui ckl y. Sl owl y add C
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 190 AH
Hand Cream
White, creamy. Easily spread, quickly absorbed.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Hostaceri n CG/Trilaneth-4-Phosphate (and) Cetearyl
A1 coho1 (and) PEG-6 01 eami de (and) Sodi um-Cl4-Cl7
Al kyl Sec S ul fonate 15.00%
P araf f i no1 / Mi neral o i 1 15.00
Bel s i 1 DM 350/Di methi cone 1 . oo
6: Gl yceri ne
Wasser dest. /Water
P reservati ves, perfume
3. 00
66.00
q. s .
Mel t A at approx. 70C. heat B t o 75C. Add B t o A whi l s t s t i r -
r i ng (do not al l ow d foam t o form). S t i r col d sl owl y.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 148 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Creams 171
Day Cream O/W
I S i egert S teari n L2SM
Lanette 16
Eumulgin 82
Eutanol G
Beeswax, whi te
P araf f i n o i l
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Ami nomethyl propanedi ol
Water
96w/w
8. 0
1. 5
2. 0
5. 0
3. 0
10.0
5. 0
0. 4
65. 1
Note:
Medi um- fatti ng, soft- consi stency, "Cold cream" type
Day creams are al s o desi gnated as matt creams, vani shi ng
creams, foundati on creams or are c al l ed snow creams or pearl y
gl oss creams due t o t he i r appearance. They are almost excl us i vel y
oi l - i n- water emulsions, i n which mono/di gl yceri des such as
Cuti na MD and s teari c aci d are the main i ngredi ents o f the
f a t t y phase.
The tri ethanol ami ne (preferabl y a "non- yel l owi ng" type)
normal l y used as the saponi fyi ng agent i n the stearate creams can
al s o be repl aced by AMPD (aminomethyl propanedi ol ), thus al l owi ng
more col or- f as t f i ni s hed preparati ons t o be produced.
Formula No. Al l - 01
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
I sopropyl Myri s tate
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Set pH t o 7
Note: Low- fatti ng, s o f t consi stency
Formula No. Al l - 02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
16.0
1 . o
6. 0
4. 0
6. 0
67.0
172 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
Cuti na E24
F or l ani t E
C eti ol 868
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
Forrnul a A1 1-32
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na GMS
Euniulyin 81
Dehyinuls LS
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
I i Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula A1 1-34
Skin Cream O/W
I Cuti na M D
Eumulyin 81
Dehyinuls LS
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
P araf f i t i o i 1, hi gh v i scous
I i Water
Formula Al l - 35
%Wi ! Y
6 . 0 0
1. 50
2 . 0 0
0. 40
8 . 0 0
5. 00
0. 08
77.02
%Wf W
15. 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
12. 0
5. 0
5. 0
57. 0
%W/W
14.0
3. 0
5. 0
8. 0
8. 0
6. 0
56.0
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 173
Day Cream O/W
(Soft Cream)
I Cuti na CBS
Cuti na E24
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol B
C eti ol SN
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula A I 1-21
Universal Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na GMS
Dehymuls SMS
Eumulgin SMS 20
Eutanol G
C eti ol B
Water
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula A I 1-22
Universal Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 16
Eumulgin SMS 20
Eutanol G
C eti ol 868
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula A1 1-23
Universal Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 16
Dehymuls SMS
Eumulgin SMS 20
Eutanol G
C eti ol 868
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. Al l - 24
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
12.0
1. 5
1. 5
6. 0
4. 0
5.0
70.0
%w/w
14.0
2. 0
3. 0
6. 0
6. 0
3. 0
66.0
%w/w
14. 0
0.5
3. 0
6.0
6. 0
5.0
65.5
%w/w
14.0
0. 5
1 . o
3. 0
3. 0
6.0
5.0
67.5
174 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Day Cream O/W
(Allround Cream)
I Cuti na MD
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin B1
Myri tol 318
P araf f i n o i 1, vi scous
I I . T r i ethanol ami ne
1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
%w/w
6. 0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 5
5.0
64. 5
Note: S l i ght pearl y gl oss, medi um- fatti ng, s of t consi stency
Formula No. Al l - 03
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol B
Eutanol G
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. Al l - 04
I Lanette N or W
Eutanol G
S i egert S teari n
I I T r i ethanol ami ne
Henkel Gl yceri n
Water
Day Cream O/W
L2SM
86% DAB 9
rn
14.0
1. 5
1. 5
6.0
6. 0
6.0
65.0
%w/w
8. 0
2. 5
6. 5
0. 4
5. 0
77.6
Note: Thi s formula-as wel l as form. no. 11-14-is an example o f
Formula No. Al l - 05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
the possi bl e use of Lanette types f or day creams.
Creams 175
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na M D
Eumulgin B1
C eti ol B
P araf f i n oi 1, hi gh vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. All-06
Water
Day Cream O/W
I Emulgade F
Eutanol G
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. All-07
Water
%W/W
15.0
3. 0
10.0
3.0
5. 0
64.0
%W/W
10.0
4. 0
2. 0
5.0
79.0
Day Cream O/W
% w / w
I Cuti na MD 4.0
S i egert S teari n L2SM 16.0
Eumulgin B1 3.0
Eutanol G 3. 0
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous 3. 0
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne 0.5
Water 70.5
Formula No. All-08
Note: Strong pearl y gl oss, l ow- f atti ng matt day cream wi th a
s of t consi stency. "Vani shi ng cream" type.
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol B
Eutanol G
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
Formula No. All-09
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cos met i c Model Formulae
%W/W
6.0
8.0
1.0
1 . o
10.0
5.0
6.0
0.5
62.5
176 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
C eti ol LC
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Water
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: L ow- fatti ng
Formula No. Al l - 10
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
Water
Set pH t o 7
Note: Medi um- fatti ng, s of t consi stency, easy t o appl y
Formula No. Al l - 11
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na LE
Eutanol G
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Water
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Note: Low- fatti ng, medium s of t consi stency
Formula No. Al l - 12
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
I 1 12- propyl ene gl ycol
%w/W
15.0
3. 0
10.0
3. 0
5. 0
64. 0
15.0
5.0
5. 0
5. 0
70. 0
%w/w
15. 0
4 . 0
2. 0
5. 0
74.0
6. 0
8. 0
5. 0
3. 0
3. 0
5. 0
0. 4
69. 6
Note: S l i ght pearl y gl oss, medium f atti ng, s of t consi stency
Formula No. A l l - I 3
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 177
Day Cream O/W
I Lanette N
Eutanol G
P araf f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: Medi um- fatti ng
Formula A l l - I 4
Day Cream O/W
I Emulgade F
C eti ol LC
Myri tol 318
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: Medi um- fatti ng
Formula Al l - 15
Day Cream O/W
I S i egert S teari n L2SM
Lanette 16
Eutanol G
Water
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne
%w/w
10. 0
8. 0
4 . 0
5. 0
73. 0
10. 0
12. 0
6. 0
6 . 0
66.0
Note: Typi cal stearate cream or so- cal l ed snow cream, very d
formul a.
Formula AI 1-1 6
%w/w
1 4 . 0
2 . 0
1 . o
0
0
Y
1
82
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD-A
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol SN
Myri tol 318
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: S of t consi stency, medi um- fatti ng.
Formula Al l - 17
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
4 . 0
4 . 0
1.0
1 .o
3. 0
4 . 0
3.0
80.0
178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Depi l at or y Cr eam
Bei ge- col our ed cr eam
Mat er i a1 / CTFA- I ndex :
A: Emul gat or E- 2155/ St ear yl Al cohol
St ear et h- 10
Tagat S/ PEG- 30- Gl ycer yl St ear at e
Lanol i n Oi 1
St ear yl Al cohol
I sopr opyl Myr i st at e
B: Gl ycer i ne
Wat er
Bel si 1 DMC 6033/ Di met hi cone Cop0
C: Cal ci umOxi de
Cal ci umThi ogl ycol at e
Wat er
Pr eser vat i ves, f r agr ances, pi gme
Heat A and B t o 75C, st i r B i nt o
( and) St ear et h-
8. 00%
2. 00
5. 00
2. 00
5. 00
3. 00
52. 00
yo1 Acet at e 1 . oo
3. 00
5. 00
14. 00
t s 9,5.
A. St i r i n C at 45C.
Temper at ur e st abi l i t y: 8 weeks at 45C
For mul at i on 319 AH
Hand Cr eam
Mat er i al / CTFA- I ndex:
A: Dehymul s E/ Sor bi t an Sesquioleate(a.)Beeswax(a.)Alum-
i numSt ear at ( a. ) Ot her I ngr edi ent s
Vase1 i ne/ Pet r ol at um
Cet i ol V/ Decyl 01 eat e
Mi ner al Oi l ( hi gh vi scosi t y)
B: Wat er
C: Zi nc Oxi de
Tal c
D: Bel si l CM l OOO/ Cycl omet hi cone( a. ) Di met hi conol
6. 20%
9,00
4. 50
4. 50
47. 80
9. 00
9. 00
10. 00
Pr eser vat i ves, per f ume, pi gment s q . s .
Heat A and B t o 60- 65C. St i r B i nt o A, add C and cool t o
appr ox. 30C. Add D.
For mul at i on 341 AH
SOURCE: Wacker Si l i cone: Suggest ed For mul at i ons
Creams 179
Enrichment Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Emulgade SE
2 C eti ol B
3 C eti ol MM
4 Cyclomethicone 345
5 Blanose (C.M.C.)
6 P reservati ve
7 Water
o/ow/w
8 . 0
9. 0
4. 0
0. 5
0.5
q. s .
t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a medium wei ght O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t three components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 5 i s di ssol ved i n the water which i s heated t o the
same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added t o the water
phase, al s o at about 85C, and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue
down t o about 35C. The Cyclomethicone can then be added.
Formula TS 504
Emollient Body Lotion
I naredi ent:
1 Emulgade SE
2 C eti ol LC
3 Novata AB
4 P reservati ve
5 Water
Thi s formul a i on gi ves a l i g h t O/W s ki n l oti on w i
%w/w
9.0
8 . 0
4. 0
q. s .
t o 100. 0
h a medium
The f i r s t three components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
vi s cos i ty .
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase, al s o a t about
85C, and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 506
Every Day Lotion
I ngredi ent:
1 Emulgade SE
2 C eti ol B
3 C eti ol MM
4 P reservati ve
5 Water
96w/w
8. 0
9. 0
4. 0
q. s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i g h t O/W s ki n l oti on.
The f i r s t three components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase, al s o a t about
85C, and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 507
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
180 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Cleansing Cream
I nqredi ents/ Trade Name: Wt%
P art A :
Sodium Hydrogenated Tal l ow Glutamate/Amisoft HS-11 4. 0
Water 23.8
Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate 0. 2
P art B:
Squal ane
POE (30) Gl yceryl Tri i sostearate/ E mal ex GIWS330
Butyl Parahydroxybenzoate
70. 4
1. 5
0. 1
P rocedure:
i s compl etel y uni form.
Heat P art A t o BO-85 degrees centi grade wi th mi xi ng u n t i l mix
Cool P art A qui ckl y t o 30 degrees centi grade.
Whi l e P art A i s bei ng cooled, mix P art B a t room temperature.
When P art A i s a t 30 degrees centi grade, add P art B sl owl y t o
Cool the mi xture t o 10 degrees centi grade whi l e mi xi ng.
P art A whi l e homogenizing.
Formula MRE-04
Facial Cleansing Milk
I ng red i en tL T r ad e dame
P art A:
TEA Cocoyl Glutamate/ mi s of t CT-12 20.0
Sodium Hydrogenated Tal l ow Glutamate/Amisoft HS-11 1. 5
Water 6. 8
Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate 0. 2
P art 8:
I s os teari c Aci d
L i qui d P araf f i n
Eldew CL-301
Butyl Parahydroxybenzoate
8. 5
59.9
3. 0
0. 1
Procedure:
P art B t o BO-85 degrees centi grade whi l e mi xi ng. When both
parts are a t 80-85 degrees centi grade add P art A t o P art 6
wi th s t i r r i n g or homogenizing. Cool t o 30 degrees centi grade.
Formula MRE-03
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Heat P art A t o 80-85 degrees centi grade whi l e mi xi ng. Heat
Creams 181
Foundation Cream
Firm cream. Absorbed well.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S tearate se
Ol i ve O i l
8: Gl yceri ne
Water
Bel s i 1 PDM ZO/Phenyldimethicone
Bel s i 1 CM 020/Cyclomethicone
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments
Mel t A, mix B and heat t o 65C. Work B i nt o A whi l s t
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: 8 weeks a t 45C.
F ormul ati on 191 AH
s t i r r i n g qui ckl y.
20.00%
5. 00
4.00
69.50
1 .oo
0. 50
q . s .
Foundation Cream
Thin cream. Absorbed well.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Crodawax GP 200/Stearyl Al cohol (and) PEG-Stearate 13.00%
Mi neral o i l 30.00
Bel s i l PDM 20/Phenyl Dimethicone 4. 00
Gl yceri ne
Wasser dest./Water
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments
9. 00
44. 00
q. s
Mix A and mel t, heat B t o 65C, work B i nt o A whi l s t s t i r r i n g
ckl y. S t i r whi l s t cool i ng.
F ormul ati on 192 AH
Hand Cream
Soft, white cream with a good protective effect.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : S teari c Aci d
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Bel s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone
8; Sodium Hydroxide
Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ves, perfume
15.00%
2.00
10.00
1 . oo
18.00
54.00
q . s .
Heat A t o 8012, heat B t o a l i t t l e over 80C. S t i r B sl owl y
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 196 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
i nt o A, s t i r col d.
182 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gl ycer i ne Cr eam O/ W Hand Cr eam
I Cut i na KD 16
Eut anol G
I 1 Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
Wat er
Set pH t o 7
For mul a No. A16-02
17. 0
5. 0
20. 0
58. 0
Gl ycer i ne Cr eam O/W Tr anspar ent , i n Gel For m
%w/w
I Eumul gi n B1 2. 0
I 1 Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
Car bopol 940
Tr i et hanol ami ne
Wat er
35. 0
0. 8
1. 5
60. 7
Pr epar at i on: Whi l st st i r r i ng, Car bopol 940 i s swel l ed i n col d
wat er . Eumul gi n 81 and gl ycer i n ar e mi xed by heat i ng
and added t o t he Car bopol 940 af t er t hey have cool ed down
t o r oomt emper at ur e. Then, neut r al i ze wi t h t r i et hanol ami ne
NG whi ch has been di l ut ed wi t h 5 par t s wat er .
For mul a A1 6- 03
Gl ycer i ne Cr eam O/W Tr anspar ent , i n Gel For m
I Eumul gi n 83
Cet i ol HE
Par af f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
Wat er
%w/w
13. 0
2 0 . 0
5. 0
2 0 . 0
42. 0
Pr epar at i on: Eumul gi n 83 and t he f at t y subst ances ar e mel t ed on
ar e di ssol ved i n t he f at mel t . Wat er and gl ycer i ne ar e al so
added t o t he f at mel t at a t emper at ur e of 95C. The gel pr oduced
i s st i r r ed and cool ed and per f ume i s added at 6 0 C. The gel i s
cool ed and st i r r i ng cont i nued, al t hough t he st i r r i ng pr ocess
shoul d be t er mi nat ed af t er a shor t whi l e t o el i mi nat e ai r pock-
et s. I n or der t o achi eve t he desi r ed t r anspar ency, i t i s essen-
t i al t o obser ve t he t emper at ur e speci f i ed.
Gl ycer i ne cr eams ar e onl y i nt ended f or use on t he hands!
For mul a No . A16-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
Creams 183
Hand and Body Cream
Del i catel y balanced o i l based cream wi th added l i p i d moi st-
u r i z ati on.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
I nnredi ents:
1. Ri tapro- 165 (R. I . T. A. Blend)
Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend)
R i ta S teari c Aci d
%w/w F uncti on
2. 00 E mul s i f i er
0 . 5 0 Moi sture
4.50 E mul s i f i er
R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 1. 00 E mul s i f i er
Mi neral O i l 2 I 50 Emoll i ent
P ropylene G1 ycol Di pel argonate
(Lexol PG 900) 3.50 Emol 1 i ent
P ropylparaben 0. 05 P reservati ve
Tri ethanol ami ne @ 100% 0.80 pH
P r o wl ene G1 vcol 3. 50 Humectant
10.Meth;lparaben
11 . Di s ti l l ed/ Oei oni z ed Water
0.15 P reservati ve
81 .SO ----
Compounding Procedure:
Mel t i ngredi ents 1-7 together. Heat water t o 70-75C and add
i ngredi ents 8-10. Add o i l phase t o water phase wi th agi tati on.
Cool w i t h mi xi ng t o 40C. Add fragrance/dye i f necessary.
Ref. No. 119-103
Hand and Body Cream
Thi ck emol l i ent cati oni c cream f or extremel y dry s ki n.
1.
2.
3.
4 .
5.
6.
7.
8.
I ngredi ents: e F uncti on
Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend) 2. 00 Moi s tur i zer
Gl yceryl S tearate (and) Stearamido- 10.00 Cati oni c
ethyl - Di ethyl ami ne (Lexemul AR) Emu1 s i f i e r
R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 7.00 Emoll i ent
Mi neral O i l 3.00 Feel
P ropylparaben 0. 05 P reservati ve
G1 yceri ne 2 I 00 Humectant
Methylparaben 0.15 P reservati ve
D i s t i 11 ed/Deioni zed Water 75.80 ----
Compounding Procedure:
i ngredi ents 6-8 t o 70C. Add o i l i ngredi ents t o water mi xture
sl owl y wi th good agi tati on. Mi x wel l u n t i l emulsion sets.
F i l l i nt o desi red package.
Ref. No. 119-105A
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : S ki n Care Formulary
Mel t i ngredi ents 1-5 together. I n a separate beaker heat
184 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cream
Soft cream, easily spread and well absorbed.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A. P ol yethyl engl ykol 400/PEG-8
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Cetyl A1 coho1
B el s i l CM 1000/Cyclomethicone ( a. ) Di methi conol
S teari c Aci d
B: T r i ethanol ami ne
P ropylene G1 ycol
Gl yceri ne
Water
2.00%
3.00
1 . oo
20.00
2. 00
0.50
4.50
2.00
65.00
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments 9, s .
Heat A and 8 t o 80-85C, s t i r B i nt o A wi th good agi tati on.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C more than 8 weeks.
F ormul ati on 638 AH
Skin Cream
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Hostaceri n WO/P olyglyceryl-2 S esqui i sostearate (and)
Beeswax (and) Mi neral O i l (and) Magnesium S tearate
(and) A1 umi num S tearate 10.00%
Bel s i 1 CM 1000/Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol 10.00
I sopropyl P al mi tate 10.00
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments q . s .
W/O cream
Heat A and B t o 75-8OC. S t i r B i nt o A .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C 6 weeks.
F ormul ati on 694 AH
8: Water 70.00
Skin-care Cream
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Hostaceri n CG/Trilaneth-4 Phosphate (and) Cetearyl
Al cohol (and) PEG-6 Oleamide (and) Sodium C14-17
Al kyl sec S ul fonate 5.00%
Bel s i l CM 1000/Cyclomethicone (a. )Dimethicon01 6. 00
I sopropyl P al mi tate 4.00
B: Hostaceri n PN 73/Acrylamide/Sodium Acryl ate Copolymer 0. 20
Water 84.80
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments q. s.
Mix the i ngredi ents o f 8, heat A and B t o 75-8OC. S t i r B
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C more than 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 705 AH
i nt o A .
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati on
Creams 185
"Light and White" Day Cream
The combi nati on o f Dow Corni ng s i l i cones provi des the s ki n
wi th benef i ts such as: non- oi l y, emol l i ency (DC 556), hi ghl y
spreadable product (DC 334), s ubs tanti vi ty and s i l ky f eel
(DC 1403); w/o col d processed emulsion, gl ossy smooth and
s tabl e (DC 5200).
I nqredi ents:
A. Dow Corni ng 5200
Dow Corni ng 344
Dow Corni ng 556
Amerchol 1-101
Camelia O i l
Copherol 1250
Coviox T-70P
0 . P ropyl ene Gl ycol
EDTA D i sodi um
Sodium Chl ori de
Coviox T-30
P ronal en F r ui t Aci ds AHA-20
S uttoci de A
Water ( Di s t i l l ed)
Chinese White Tuckahoe
C. Dow Corni ng 1403
P erf . J i ngl e
AMP-95
% b y Weiaht
2. 00
5. 00
1- 00
2. 00
8.00
1 . oo
0. 10
3.00
0.20
2. 00
0. 10
3. 00
0. 30
0. 80
63.30
3. 00
5. 00
0. 20
Note: Check pH o f water phase (shoul d be around 5. 0) and
correct wi th AMP-95, i f necessary.
Procedure:
1. Mix i ngredi ents o f phase A and B i n separate contai ners (make
sure t o correct pH o f water phase before proceedi ng f ur ther ) .
2. Wi th hi gh speed s ti r r i ng, add smal l amount o f water phase
(10/0-2%) t o o i l phase and mix u n t i l pri mary emulsion i s
formed.
3. Transfer emulsion t o propel l er s t i r r e r and s t a r t adding water
phase sl owl y and constantl y whi l e mi xi ng wi th average speed.
4. When whole o f water phase i s used add i ngredi ents o f Phase C
one af ter another wi th slow mi xi ng.
5. Conti nue mi xi ng u n t i l desi red vi s cos i ty i s achieved, stop
mi xi ng, take sample t o QC and when approved pack the product.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co . : Angus P roduct Formulary: F ormul ati on
PF-0310 suggested by Dow Corni ng
186 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Body Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Cuti na FS45
2 Cegesoft C24
3 Lorol C16
4 Lorol C18
5 Cuti na MD
6 Dow Corni ng F l ui d 345
7 Carbopol 980
8 KOH (20%)
9 P reservat i ve
10 Water
o/,w/w
3. 0
7. 0
1 . o
1 . o
1 . o
0.25
0. 1
1. 2
q . s .
t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i g h t wei ght O/ W s ki n cream w i t h
The f i r s t f i ve components are melted together a t about 85C.
a s l i ght l y transl ucent appearance.
Component 7 i s di ssol ved i n hal f o f the water, wi th the Comp-
onent 8 bei ng di ssol ved i n the other ha l f . Both porti ons o f
water are then heated t o 85C and mixed. The o i l phase i s
then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 498
Moisturising Enrichment Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Cuti na FS45
2 Cegesoft C24
3 L orol C16
4 Lorol C18
5 Cuti na MD
6 Hygroplex HHG
7 KOH (20%)
8 P reservati ve
9 Water
%*y
4. 0
1 0 . 0
1. 5
1. 5
3. 0
4. 0
1. 5
q.s.
t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a heavy weight O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 6 i s di ssol ved i n hal f o f the water, wi th the
Component 7 bei ng di ssol ved i n the other hal f . Both porti ons
o f water are then heated t o 85C and mixed. The o i l phase i s
then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 499
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 187
Light Emollient Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Stenol 16-65
w/w
2. 2
2 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
3 Eumulgin B2 3. 0
4 C eti ol SB45 5. 1
5 Myri tol 318 10.0
6 P reservati ve q.s.
7 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i ghtwei ght O/W Cream wi th good
emol 1 i ence.
The f i r s t f i v e components are heated together t o 85C. The
water i s al s o heated t o t h i s temperature. The oi l phase can
then be added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng
shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 374
Almond Oil Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82 3. 0
2 Monomuls 60-35 3. 1
3 Novata AB 4. 8
4 Almond O i l 10. 2
5 Lorol C16 2.05
6 Lorol C18 2. 05
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
and a r i c h f eel .
i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added t o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o
about 35C.
Formula TS 415
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a s t i f f O/W Cream, wi th good spreading
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C. The water
Almond Oil Cream with Protein
I ngredi ent: %w/w
1 Eumulgin 82 3. 0
2 Monomuls 60-35 3. 1
3 C eti ol 5645 4. 5
4 Almond O i l 10. 2
5 S i pol 16-18 C50 4. 1
6 Gl uadi n AGP 1 . o
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a s t i f f O/W Cream, wi th good spreading
and a r i c h f eel .
The f i r s t f i v e components are heated together t o 85C.
Component s i x i s di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture i s al s o
heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added t o the water
phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 416
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
188 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Enrichment Cream
I nqredi ent:
1 Monomuls 90-0 18
2 Lameform TGI
3 Ceti ol A
4 S i pol 1618 C50
5 Beeswax
6 Zi nc stearate
7 Magnesi um sul phate
8 Gl yceri ne
9 P reservati ve
10 Water
%w/w
2.0
4.0
21 . o
1 . o
3.0
2.0
1 . o
3.0
q. s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i g h t W/O cream wi th good emol l i ence.
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 7 8 8 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The
water phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng
shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C. The product should then be
homogenised f u l l y usi ng a T r i pl e Rol l M i l l .
Formula TS 464
Daily Nourishing Cream
I nqredi ent:
1 Emulgade SE
2 Ceti ol A
3 Ceti ol Si345
4 S i pol 1618 C50
5 Novata AB
6 White S of t P araf f i n
7 L i qui d P ar af f i n ( L i ght)
8 S i l i cone O i l MlOO
9 Gl yceri ne
10 P reservati ve
1 1 Water t o
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a r i c h O/W cream wi th good emo
and a verv smooth s ki n f eel
%w/w
8.0
1 1 . o
4.0
0.5
2.0
1 . o
8.0
0.5
3. 0
q. s .
100.0
1 i ence
The f i r s t ei ght components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 9 i s di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture i s then
heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The water phase
i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoulu
conti nue down t o about 3%.
Formula TS 465
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 189
Make-up Cream O/W
I Emulgade F
Lanette 16
C eti ol V
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Wool f a t , anhydrous
Pigment col ors
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Luvi skol K30
Veegum
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. P11-01
Make-up Cream O/W
I Lanette 16
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Eumulgin 05
I sopropyl myri s tate
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Pigment col ors
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne NG
Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
"/ow/w
1 . oo
2. 00
10. 00
25. 00
2. 00
10.00
5. 00
1 . oo
1. 75
0.50
41.75
s/ow/w
2 . 0
4. 0
2. 0
12. 0
6. 0
8. 0
0. 4
30. 0
33. 6
P reparati on: The pigments are mixed wi th par t o f the f i ni s hed
emul si on, homogenized and s t i r r e d i n t o the r es t of the emul si on.
Formula No. P11-02
Make-up Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
I sopropyl myri s tate
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P i gment col ors
I 1 Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
Set pH t o 7
Formula No. P11-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
8. 0
1 . o
4. 0
4. 0
2. 0
8. 0
35. 0
38. 0
190 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Massage Cream O/W
%w/w
I Lanette 16 2.0
C u ti na MD 12.0
E u m u l g i n B1 2.0
E u m u l g i n B2 2.0
M y r i t o l 318 10.0
Par affi n o i l , h i g h v i s c o u s 25.0
I I Water 47.0
F o r m u l a No . H 11- 01
Massage Cream W/O
%W/W
I D e h y m u l s K 25.6
M y r i t o l 318 15.0
P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h v i s c o u s 15.0
II Water 45.0
F o r m u l a No . H 11- 02
Massage Cream, Anhydrous, Removable by Washing
%W/W
A m p h o c e r i n K 43.0
E u m u l g i n B2 2.0
C e t i o l LC 15.0
P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h v i s c o u s 15.0
V a s e l i n e , w h i t e 25.0
No te: T h i s cr eam is an e x a m p l e o f an a n h y d r o u s m assag e p r ep ar a-
t i o n . Such fatty cr eam s ar e n o r m a l l y m o r e d i f f i c u l t to wash o ff
t h e s k i n ; t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s , h o w ever , r e m o v a b l e d u e t o t h e
a d d i t i o n o f E u m u l g i n B2.
F o r m u l a No . H 11- 03
Massage Oil
%w/w
C e t i o l LC 18.0
M y r i t o l 318 37.0
P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h v i s c o u s 45.0
F o r m u l a No . H31-01
SOURCE : Henk el KGaA: Cosm etic Model Fo r m ul ae
Creams 191
Moisture Cream
I ngredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Carbopol 934
P ropylene G1 ycol
Methyl Paraben
Phase B:
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate)
G1 yceryl S tearate
Hetoxamate 100s (PEG-100 S tearate)
Hetan SS (S orbi tan S tearate)
Lanol i n
Hetoxide HC-40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor O i l )
J ojoba O i l
Mi neral O i l
Hetoxol G (S tearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth 20)
Dimethicone 350
P ropyl Paraben
Phase C :
TEA 99%
Phase 0 :
H20, Dei oni zed
Germall 115
Procedure:
%
70.50
0.20
2.00
0. 25
5. 00
2.00
2.00
2.50
0. 50
0. 50
1. 75
2. 00
0.60
0 I 50
0. 15
0.25
1 . oo
0.30
I n a s tai nl es s s teel ke t t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
mi xer, add water.
Wi th mi xer on hi gh, sl owl y s pri nkl e Carbopol 934 i nt o vortex.
Mix u n t i l uni form.
Heat t o 75C, add remainder o f Phase A .
I n a separate kettl e, add Phase B, heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng
u n t i l uni form.
Add Phase B t o Phase A. Mi x whi l e avoi di ng aerati on.
Add Phase C, mix wel l .
Cool t o 45C and swi tch t o pl anetary mi xer.
Add premix Phase 0. Mi x t o 25-3OC.
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 6. 50
Vi scosi ty, #4/3 RPM: 120,000 cps
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Formula HC91-39
192 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisture Cream
I nqred i en t s :
Phase A :
H20, Dei oni zed
Carbopol 934
Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2-Octanoate)
Methyl Paraben
Phase 8:
Cetyl Al cohol
Hetoxol P (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax)
P ropyl Paraben
Phase C :
TEA 99%
H20, Dei oni zed
Phase D:
I mi dazol i di nyl Urea
H20, Dei oni zed
%
70.25
0.25
8. 50
0.25
3.50
6. 50
0.15
0.30
5. 00
0. 30
5. 00
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 6.10
Vi s cos i ty #4/12: 42,500 cps
P rocedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, add H20. Premix Hest L-2-0 wi th
Carbopol 934 and add t o H20 whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l di spersed.
Add methyl paraben and heat t o 75C.
2) I n a separate kettl e, combine Phase B and heat t o 75C whi l e
mi xi ng.
3) Add Phase B t o Phase A whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
4) Add Premix Phase C t o batch.
5) Cool t o 40C and add premix Phase D. Mix we1 1.
Formula HC 93-96-4
Moisture Cream
I nqredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Hetoxi de G-26 (Gl ycereth- 26)
Phase B:
Hest MS ( Myri s tyl S tearate)
Hest G-7-TO (Gl ycereth- 7 Tri octanoate)
Hetoxol D (Cetearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth-20)
Phase C:
Germaben I 1
%
81 . oo
4.00
4.50
4.00
5.50
1 . oo
Procedure:
1) I n separate s tai nl es s steel kettl es , add Phase A and Phase 8.
2) Heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
3) Add Phase B t o Phase A . Mix u n t i l homogeneous.
4) Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . Mix u n t i l uni form.
Formula HC 93-118-1
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Suggested Formulas
Creams 193
Moisture Cream for Dry Skin
I ngredi ents: %
Phase A:
H20, Deionized 73.30
K el tr ol T 0.20
P ropylene Gl ycol 5.00
Phase 8:
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 12.00
Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 S tearate) 3.00
Hetol CS (Cetearyl Al cohol ) 2.75
PEG 150 Di s tearate 0.25
Gl yceryl S tearate 2.50
Phase C :
Germaben I 1 1 .oo
Speci fi c ati ons:
pH: 6.40
P rocedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel k e t t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
2) Wi th mixer on hi gh, s pr i nkl e K el tr ol T i nt o vortex u n t i l
3) Add propyl ene gl ycol , heat t o 75C.
4) I n a separate ket t l e add Phase B, heat t o 75C.
5) A t 75C add Phase B t o Phase A. Mix unt i l homogeneous.
6) Cool t o 45C, add Phase C, mix wel l .
Phase HC92-38-1
I naredi ents : %
mixer, add H20.
compl etel y di spersed.
Oil Free Night Cream
Phase A:
H20, Deionized 69.35
Sorbi to1 2.50
Methyl Paraben 0.25
TEA 99% 1- 00
Phase 0:
G1 yceryl Stearate 3.70
Hest MS ( Myri s tyl S tearate) 3.00
S teari c Aci d 4.00
Hetol CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 1.75
Panal ene 1 . oo
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 10.00
P ropyl Paraben 0.15
Phase C:
H20, Deionized 3.00
Germall 115 0.30
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 7.25
Procedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel ket t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
mixer, combine i ngredi ents i n Phase A and heat t o 75C.
2) I n a separate ket t l e combine Phase B and heat t o 75C.
3) A t 75C add Phase B t o Phase A.
4) Cool t o 45C add premix Phase C . Mix we1 1.
Formula HC-92-65-3
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Suggested Formulas
194 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Cream
White firm cream. Produces a pleasant soft feeling on the skin
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Emulgator E2155/Stearyl Al cohol (and) Steareth- (and)
Steareth-10 8.00%
C eti ol SN/Cetearyl Al cohol I sononanoate 6.00
I sopropyl Myri s tate 6.00
Tegosoft 189/I sooctadecyl I sononanoate 6.00
Bel si 1 SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
S tearyl Al cohol 2. 00
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si l oxane 5 . 0 0
B: Water 62.00
G1 ycer i ne 3.00
Bel s i 1 DMC 6032/Dimethicone Copolyol Acetate 2.00
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q . s .
Heat A and B each t o 75C. S t i r 8 i n t o A, s t i r col d.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 418 AH
Emollient Cream
White firm cream. A slightly cooling effect
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Arl acel 165/Gl yceryl S tearate se
Arlamol E/PPG-15 S tearyl ether
Cetyl Al cohol
Vase1 i ne/ P etrol atum
Bel s i 1 PDM PO/Phenyl Di methi cone
B: Sorbi to1 70%ig/Sorbi to1
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
6.00%
3. 00
5 . 0 0
3.00
2.00
10.00
71 . OO
q . s .
Heat A t o 70C, heat B t o 72C. S t i r B i nt o A, s t i r col d.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 405 AH
Day Cream
Soft white cream. Absorbed well, slightly cooling effect.
A: Lanette N/Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Sodium
S ul f ate
Eutanol G/Octyldedecanol
Bel s i 1 DM 35O/Dimethi cone
Bel s i l PDM PO/Phenyl Dimethicone
B; Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pi gments
Cetearyl
15.00%
5. 00
10.00
2.00
5 . 0 0
63.00
q . s .
Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B i n t o A. S t i r col d
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 404 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Creams 195
Moisturizing Cream
I naredi ent :
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin B1
3 Cuti na MD
4 C eti ol MU
5 Lorol C16
6 Lorol C18
7 Myr i tol 318
8 P araf f i n o i l
9 White S of t P ar af f i n
10 S i l i cone O i l Ml OO
11 P reservati ve
12 Water
%w/w
1. 5
1. 5
3.5
5. 0
1.75
1. 75
8. 0
11 . o
14.0
0. 5
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a hi gh vi s cos i ty, r i c h moi s turi s i ng
The f i r s t ten components are mel ted together at about 85C.
O/W s ki n cream.
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature. The o i l
phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng
should conti nue down t o about 30C. To achi eve the optimum
vi s cos i ty, mi xi ng must be conti nued u n t i l the product has
f u l l y cool ed down.
Formula TS 496
O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream
I nqredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin 81
3 Cuti na MD
4 Novata AB
5 S i pol 1618 C50
6 Myr i tol 318
7 P araf f i n o i l
8 White S of t P ar af f i n
9 S i l i cone O i l M l OO
10 P reservati ve
11 Water
%w/w
1. 5
1. 5
3. 5
5. 0
3.5
8. 0
11 . o
14.0
1 .o
q . s
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a hi gh vi s cos i ty, r i c h moi s turi s i ng
O/W s ki n cream.
The f i rs t ten components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase
i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d
conti nue down t o about 30C. To achi eve the optimum vi s cos i ty,
mi xi ng must be conti nued u n t i l the product has f u l l y cool ed
down.
Formula TS 497
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
1% Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Protective Day Care Cream
I naredi ent : %w/w
1 Cuti na MD 7. 0
2 Stenol 16-65 2. 0
3 Eumulgin B2 3. 0
4 Eutanol G 3. 0
5 C eti ol SN 7. 0
6 C eti ol SB45 5 . 0
7 Hygroplex HHG CLR 4. 0
8 P reservati ve q. s .
9 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W cream which gi ves acti ve
moi s turi s i ng.
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C.
Component seven i s di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase i s then mixed i nt o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o
about 35C.
Formula TS 265
I ngredi ent:
1 Cuti na MD
Light Everyday Cream
o/aw/w
5. 9
2 Stenol 16-65 2. 1
3 Eumulgin E2 3. 0
4 C eti ol SB45 4. 8
5 C eti ol SN 10. 0
6 P reservati ve q . s .
7 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W Cream wi th good emol l i ence.
The f i r s t f i ve components are heated together t o 85C. The
water i s al s o heated t o t h i s temperature. The o i l phase can
then be added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 369
Everyday Moisturizing Cream
I ngredi ent: o/ow/w
1 Cuti na MD 4. 1
2 Stenol 16-65 1. 1
3 Eumulgin 82 3. 0
4 C eti ol SB45 5. 0
5 C eti ol SN 9. 0
6 Hygroplex HHG 2. 0
7 P reservati ve q. s .
8 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W Cream wi th ef f ec ti ve moi st-
ur i s i ng.
The f i r s t f i v e components are heated together t o 85C.
Component s i x i s i ncorporated i nt o the water, and t h i s mi xture
i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added t o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about
35c.
Formula TS 370
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 197
Moisturizing Body Cream
A moi s turi z i ng body cream formul a t o hel p al l evi ate s ki n
dryness, roughness and chapping.
I naredi ents :
1. Ri tachol 1000 (R. I . T. A. Blend)
2. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol )
3. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
4. R i ta S teari c- Aci d
5. Ri tachol (Mi neral O i l and L anol i n
6. Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend)
7. Mi neral O i l
8. BHT
9. P ropylparaben
10, Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)
11 . Di s t i 1 l ed/ Dei oni zed water
12. G1 yceri ne
13.Methylparaben
14. T r i ethanol ami ne @ 50%
15. G1 ydant
16.Perfume
Al cohol )
%w/w
3.00
3. 00
1 .50
2.25
2. 00
10.00
4.00
0. 10
0.10
0. 10
68.25
5. 00
0.10
0. 20
0.20
0.20
F uncti on
E mul s i f i er
Emul s i f i er
V i scosi t y
Emul s i f i er
Emoll i ent
Moi sture Base
S l i p
Anti - oxi dant
P reservati ve
S tabi 1 i t y
Humectant
P reservat i ve
Neutral i z er
P reservati ve
Odor
----
Compounding Procedure:
Weigh i tems 1-9 i nt o beaker and heat t o 70C wi th s t i r r i ng.
To the water add i tem #l o and s t i r u n t i l lump f ree. Add i tems 12
and 13 and heat u n t i l 70C. Add o i l ohase t o water ohase w i t h
agi tati on. Add i tem 14 and s t i r wel l . Cool
remaining i tems.
Ref. No. 119-84
An everyday med
desi aned t o vani sh
Every Day Hand Cream
urn strength hand cream w
qui ckl y on the s ki n
I ngredi ents:
1. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
2. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol )
3. Mi neral O i l
4. R i ta S teari c Aci d
5. P ropylene G1 ycol D i octanoate (Lexol
6. P ropylparaben
7. Gl yceri ne
8. Tri ethanol ami ne 13 100%
9. Methylparaben
l O. Di sti l l ed/ Dei oni zed Water
ComDoundina Procedure:
PG 800)
%w/w
2.00
3.00
2.00
1.50
2.00
0. 05
1 .50
0.30
0.15
87.50
o 40C and add
t h emol l i ent system
F uncti on
Emul s i on
E mul s i f i er
Moi sture
E mul s i f i er
Feel
P reservati ve
Humectant
Neutral
i zer
P reservati ve
S tabi 1 i zer
----
Mel t i ngredi ents 1-6. Heat water t o 70-75C. Add i tems 7-9
t o the water. Add oi l phase t o water phase wi th agi tati on. Cool
wi th mi xi ng u n t i l 40C.
Ref. No. 119-104
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : S ki n Care Formulary
198 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Cream O/W
I Cuti na MO
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Hygroplex HHG
1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
Formula A14-01
Moisturizing Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin 81
Eutanol G
I sopropyl Myri s tate
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Hygroplex HHG
Kari on F, l i q u i d
Water
Note: S of t consi stency, easy t o appl y
Formula No. A 14-02
Moisturizing Cream O/W
I Oehymuls K
C eti ol V
Beeswax
Vegetable oi 1
I 1 Hygroplex HHG
Magnesi um sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A14-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
16.0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
5. 0
2. 0
5 . 0
5. 0
59.0
%w/w
16.0
I . o
12. 0
8. 0
4. 0
5. 0
8.0
46.0
%w/w
20.0
10.0
3. 0
10. 0
5. 0
0. 2
51 . E
Creams 199
Moisturizing Cream
Thi s f ormul ati on demonstrates a pol ymeri c approach t o
occl us i ve moi s turi z ati on el i mi nati ng undesi rabl e f eel properti es
o f petrol atum or other tr adi ti onal occl us i ve i ngredi ents
Epolene N-34 Wax i s a non- emul si fi abl e pol yethyl ene which
provi des a f i l m that i s res i s tant t o wash-off I t i s i ncorp-
orated i nt o t h i s emulsion wi th Eastman AQ 55 water- di s pers i bl e
pol yes ter which al s o contri butes a pr otecti ve f i l m The wash-off
res i s tance i s due t o the i na bi l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be
emul s i f i ed by soap or s urf actants The dual f i l m- f ormi ng acti on
o f t h i s polymer combi nati on has been shown t o reduce moi sture
l os s I n v i t r o oc c l us i vi ty data i s des i rabl e
Phase A:
Di s t i 11 ed water
P ropylene gl ycol , USP
Q/,W/W
4. 00
9, s . t o 100
Phase B:
Polawax emul s i f yi ng wax, NF 3. 00
Arl acel 165 gl yceryl s tearate and P E G- 100 s tearate 3. 00
Myverol 18-06 d i s t i l l e d monoglyceride 3. 00
I sopropyl myri s tate 5. 00
Robane squalane, NF 5. 00
Epolene N-34 pol yethyl ene wax 1 . oo
Phase C :
D i s t i 1 l ed water
P ropylene gl ycol
Eastman AQ 55s polymer
Phase D:
Eastman vi tami n E TPGS (20%)
Phase E :
Fragrance
P reservati ve
10. 00
3. 00
1 . oo
1 . oo
Procedure:
1 . P repare Phase C by adding propyl ene gl ycol t o water and
heati ng t o 95C and then adding Eastman AQ 555 wi th mi xi ng.
Al l ow t o cool t o 70C.
2. Heat Phase A wi th mi xi ng t o 95C.
3. Heat Phase B wi th mi xi ng t o 105-l l OC.
4. Cool Phase B t o 95C and add t o Phase A wi th propel l er mi xi ng.
5. Continue mi xi ng and cool t o 70C, avoi di ng a i r entrapment.
6. A t 70C, add Phase C .
7. Continue mi xi ng and cool t o 50C; then add Phase D and Phase E .
8. Wi th mi xi ng, f orce cool t o room temperature. P roduct w i l l
thi cken and form a cream a t 44C.
pH: 5. 5
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical C o. : F ormul ati on X20491-069
200 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Skin Cream
Thi s tr adi ti onal formul ati on i s a r i c h, s t i f f cream which i s
s ui tabl e f o r the treatment o f dry s ki n.
I naredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Carbopol 934 (1)
P ropylene Gl ycol
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
P art B:
Mi neral O i l
I sopropyl P al mi tate
G1 ycol Stearate
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
P ol ysorbate 20
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
Quaternium-15 (2)
Weight% F uncti on
60.90 Di 7 uent
0.20 Emulsion
4- 00 Humectant
0. 15 P reservati ve
0. 05 P reservati ve
Stabi 1 i zer
18.00 Moi s ture Barri er
5. 00 Emoll i ent
5. 00 Secondary
E mul s i f i er
2. 00 P rimary
Emulsi f i er
2. 00 S tructuri ng
Agent
0. 80 P rimary
Emu1 s i f i er
1.80 Neutral i zi ng
Agent
0 . 1 0 P reservati ve
(1) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(2) Dowi ci l 200 (Dow Chemical)
P reparati on:
1. Charge water t o a vessel which w i l l contai n the enti r e form-
ul ati on. Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol i nt o the vortex o f rapi dl y
agi tated water. When res i n has been di spersed, reduce mi xi ng
rate. Heat t o 60C.
2. Di ssol ve parabens i n the propyl ene gl ycol . Add t hi s s ol uti on
t o the Carbopol di spersi on.
3. I n a separate vessel , combine a l l P art B i ngredi ents and
heat t o 60C.
4. When P arts A and B are homogeneous, add B t o A wi th vi gor-
ous agi tati on.
5. Add P art C. Continue mi xi ng and remove heat.
6. Add P art D @ 40-45C. When temperature reaches 35-40C, stop
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula COO20
agi tati on and f i l l contai ners.
Creams 201
Nail Care Cream W/O
I Dehymuls E
C eti ol V
Cuti na 8W
Vase1 i ne, whi te
Avocado o i l CLR
Carrot o i l CLR
O i l o f S t . J ohn's wort CLR
I 1 Water
Formulae No. A15-10
Cucumber J uice Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 61
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
I11 Extrapon cucumber spec.
P reparati on: Phase I11 i s added t o the emulsion at 40C
Formula No. A15-11
Alcohol Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 51
C eti ol V
Garbopol 934
E thyl al cohol 96%
I 1 T r i ethanolami ne
Water
%w/w
10.0
12.0
3. 0
15.0
5. 0
2. 0
3. 0
5 0 . 0
%w/w
16.0
3. 0
15.0
10.0
5. 0
48.0
3. 0
4. 0
1 . o
5. 0
1 .o
45.0
1. 5
42.5
P reparati on: Whi l st s ti r r i ng, Carbopol 934 i s al l owed t o swel l
i n 40 parts ethyl al cohol and about ha l f o f the water. The
gel produced i s neutral i z ed wi th tri ethanol ami ne which has
been mixed ear l i er wi th the remaining 5 parts o f ethyl
al cohol . The s ol i ds and the r es t o f the water are processed
t o form a cream and s ti r r ed together wi th the gel before
bei ng perfumed and homogenized.
Formula No. A15-12
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
202 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream
I nQredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Deionized
Carbopol 934
P ropylene Gl ycol
Methyl Paraben
Hetoxide G-26 (Gl ycereth 26)
Phase 8 :
Lanol i n
Mi neral O i l #7
Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 Stearate)
Gl yceryl S tearate
S i 1 i cone SF-1173
Panal ene
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate)
Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 S tearate)
Cetyl Al cohol
Hetoxol L-4 (Laureth-4)
Hest MS (Myri sty1 Stearate)
P ropyl Paraben
Phase C:
TEA 99%
H20, Deionized
Phase D:
Vi tami n E Acetate
Al oe Vera E xtract
E l as ti n CLR
Almond E xtract
Phase E:
Germall 115
H20, Deionized
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 7. 00
59.85
0.35
2.50
0. 30
2.00
1 .oo
9.00
1.25
1.25
2.50
1.25
4.40
1- 90
1.80
1.80
3.00
0.15
0.55
1 .oo
0.60
1 .oo
1 .oo
0.25
0.30
1.00
P rocedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel ket t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
2) Wi th mi xer on hi gh, sl owl y s pr i nkl e Carbopol 934 i nt o vortex.
3) Begin heati ng t o 75C, add Phase A.
4) I n a separate kettl e, combine o i l Phase B and heat t o 75C
5) Sl owl y add Phase B t o Phase A whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l homogeneous.
6) Add Premix Phase C. Mi x wel l . Avoi di ng aerati on, begi n
mixer, add H20.
Mix u n t i l uni form.
whi l e mi xi ng, u n t i l compl etel y melted.
cool i ng .
7) A t 45C add remainder o f i ngredi ents , mix wel l .
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc, : Formula HC 92-59-3
Creams 203
Night Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Si egert S teari n LZSM
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin B2
Eutanol G
Cuti na BW
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I I T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
"/.W 1.B
4. 0
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
15. 0
2. 0
20. 0
0 . 2
47. 8
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng ni ght cream wi th a medium s of t consi stency.
Formula No. A12-01
"Cold cream" type.
Night Cream O/W
I Lanette 16
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin B2
Myr i tol 318
C eti ol LC
I 1 Water
Note: F atti ng
Formula No. A12-02
Night Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD 16
Euranol G
Myr i tol 318
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
11 1,Z-propylene gl ycol
Water
Note: F atti ng
Formula No. A12-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%W/W
1 . o
14. 0
1. 5
1. 5
10. 0
10. 0
62. 0
%WfW
15. 0
12.0
6. 0
6.0
5. 0
56. 0
204 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
Eumulgin 81
Eumulgin B2
Novata AB
Eutanol G
P ar af f i n o i l
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: S of t consi stency, f at t i ng
Formula No. A12- 07
Care Cream W/O
I Dehyniuls K
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Vegetable o i 1
Water
Note: Medi urn- fatti ng
Formula No. A12- 08
Cold Cream W/O
I . Amphoceri n E
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
I 1 \Vater
Note: F atti ng, medium s of t consi stency
Formula No. A12- 09
Care Cream W/O
I Dehymuls E
Vegetable 01 1
C eti ol V
Cut i i i a BVJ
Vasel i ne, v i h i t e
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86%DAB 9
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng
Formula No, A12- 10
SOURCE: Hen k el KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
%Yf.K
10. 0
2. 0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
10. 0
5. 0
5. 0
60. 0
%W/W
20. 0
10. 0
5. 0
65. 0
%W/W
10. 0
20. 0
20. 0
50. 0
%W/W
8. 0
20. 0
5. 0
2. 0
10. 0
3. 0
52. 0
Creams 205
Night and Care Cream W/O
I Dehymuls E
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vase1 i ne, whi te
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng, s of t consi stency
Formula No. A12-12
Care Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
C eti ol V
Eutanol G
Vegetable o i 1
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
%w/w
7 . 0
4. 0
20.0
19.0
5 . 0
45. 0
"/ow/W
10. 0
6. 0
8. 0
6. 0
5. 0
4. 0
5 . 0
0.3
5 5 . 7
Note: T hi s s ki n cream i s an example o f the possi bl e uses o f the
Novata s ol i d tr i gl yc er i des . The addi ti on o f Novata AB
enhances the overal l s tructure o f the cream; it al l ows the
hydrocarbon shares ei ther t o be reduced or t o be repl aced
compl etel y. The addi ti on o f a maximum o f 6% tr i gl yc er i de
improves the mel ti ng properti es o f creams on the ski n.
Formua No. A12-14
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Note: Medi um- fatti ng
Formula A12-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
8. 0
8 . 0
5. 0
10.0
3.0
0.3
6 5 . 7
206 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin 81
3 Cuti na MD
4 Novata AB
5 S i pol 16 18 C50
6 Myr i tol 318
7 P araf f i n o i l
8 White S of t P araf f i n
9 P reservat i ve
10 Water
%w/w
1 . 5
1 . 5
4 . 0
5. 0
3 . 0
8. 0
11 . o
1 4 . 0
t o 100. 0
q . s .
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a hi gh vi s cos i ty, r i c h moi s turi s i ng
O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t ei ght components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase
i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 30C. To achieve the optimum vi s cos i ty,
mi xi ng must be conti nued u n t i l the product has f u l l y cool ed
down.
Formula TS 494
O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream
I nQredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Eumulgin 81
3 Cuti na MD
4 Novata AB
5 S i pol 16 18 C50
6 Myri tol 318
7 P araf f i n o i l
8 White S of t P araf f i n
9 P reservati ve
10 Water
%w/w
1 . 5
1 . 5
3 . 5
5. 0
3 . 5
8.0
11 . o
1 4 . 0
t o 100.0
q . s .
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a hi gh vi s cos i ty, r i c h moi s turi s i ng
O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t ei ght components are mel ted together at about 85C.
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase
i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 30C.
To achi eve the optimum vi s cos i ty, mi xi ng must be conti nued
u n t i l the product has f u l l y cool ed down.
Formula TS 495
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 207
O/W-Collagen-Cream
Reci pe :
Hostaphat KW 340 N
Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Shea Butter
Mi neral o i 1, low vi s cos i ty
Eutanol G
Octyldodecanol
Walnut o i l
J ojoba o i l
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
A1 l antoi n
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
Desami do col 1 agen
Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f D t o I V .
V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI/3607
Hand Cream
Reci pe :
A Genamin DSAC
D i stearyl di moni urn Chl ori de
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
P reservat i ve
B Water
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 80C. I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r unt i l cool
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/6550
2.00%
6.00%
2.00%
3.00%
4.00%
3.00%
3.00%
q. s.
0.40%
0.20%
0.10%
0. 25%
1.60%
3.00%
63.05%
q . s .
8.00%
0.40%
2.00%
6.00%
10.00%
10.00%
71.60%
q. s .
0.40%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
208 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Cream
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n CG 5.00%
Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
(and) PEG-6 Oleamide (and) Sodium C14-17 Sec.
A1 kyl S ul fonate
I sopropyl pal mi tate 5.00%
Mi neral oi 1, hi gh v i scosi t y 10.00%
B Carbopol 980
Carbomer
C Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
0.20%
0.10%
0.25%
0 I 80%
78.25%
q. s .
0 Perfume 0.40%
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f necessary I
Formula A VI /1601
O/W-Cream
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n KW 340 N
Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
S teari c aci d
Cetyl al cohol
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
B S orbi tol (70%)
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
5.00%
9.00%
3.00%
4.00%
8.00%
3.00%
67.60%
q. s.
0.40%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 80C. I1 Heat B t o 80C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r unti 1 cool .
V A t 35C add C t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A VI/1700
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Creams 209
O/W-Cream
Recipe:
Hostaphat KW 340 N
Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Shea Butter
C eti ol SN
Cetearyl I sononanoate
Walnut o i l
Almond oi 1
J oj oba o i l
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
A1 1 antoi n
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
G1 ycer i ne
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
Mel t A a t 70C, then add 8. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
2.00%
7.00%
2.00%
6.00%
5.00%
4.00%
3.00%
q. s .
0.40%
0.30%
0.10%
0.25%
1.60%
4.00%
64.35%
q. s.
0.40%
111 S t i r 11 i nt o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f necessary
Formula A VI/1801
O/W-Cream
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n CG 5.00%
Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
(and) PEG-6 Oleamide (and) Sodium C14-17 Sec. Al kyl
S ul fonate
Hostaceri n DGS 3.00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
I sopropyl pal mi tate 8.00%
C eti ol SN 4.00%
Cetearyl I sononanoate
I sopropyl i sostearate 4.00%
Car borner
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water) 0.25%
NaOH (10% i n water) 0.80%
Water 70.25%
P reservati ve q. s.
D Perfume 0.40%
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f necessary
Formula A VI /1604
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty 8 . 00%
B Carbopol 980 0.20%
C Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c. 0.10%
210 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Cream
Reci De:
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Hostaceri n DGL
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-10 Laurate
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Almond o i 1
J oj oba o i l
Wheat germ o i l
Sunf 1 ower o i 1
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
Aquamoll i n BC pdr . h . c.
Ethyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c ac i d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
Perfume
5.00%
0.50%
8.00%
4.00%
2.00%
5.00%
4.00%
q. s .
0.30%
0.10%
0.25%
1.20%
69.25%
q.s.
0.40%
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add 8. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D i nt o I V . V I Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /1852
O/W-Cream
Free of ethylenoxide
Recipe :
A Hostaceri n DGMS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S tearate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Soya o i l
Anti oxi dant
B Carbopol 980
Carbomer
K el tr ol RD
Xanthan Gum
Water
P reservati ve
D Perfume
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 80C, then add B . I 1
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I
Formula A VI /1750
C NaOH (10% i n water)
5. 00%
12.00%
8.00%
5.00%
q. s .
0.20%
0.20%
0.80%
68.20%
q. s.
0.40%
Heat C t o 80C.
S t i r u n t i l cool .
Homogenize i f necessary.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Creams 211
O/W-Cream
With bacteriostatic effect
Recipe:
Hostaphat KW 340 N
Tri ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 Stearate
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
Eutanol G
Octyl dodecanol
I sopropyl i s os tearate
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
Octopi rox
P i roctone Olami ne
lI 2-P ropy1 en gl ycol
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
2.00%
7.00%
5.00%
8.00%
5.00%
0.30%
0.20%
10.00%
0.40%
61.80%
q. s .
0.30%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 60C, then add B. I 1 Di ssol ve C i n warmed D.
I 11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V Heat E t o 60C.
V S t i r I V i nt o 111. V I S t i r u n t i l cool .
V I 1 A t 35C add F t o V I . V I 1 1 Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI/8608
O/W-Cream
Soft
Recipe:
Hostaceri n DGL
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-10 Laurate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl -2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i l , hi gh vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Soya o i l
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
Aquamoll i n BC pdr . h. c .
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
NaOH (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
1 .OO%
2.00%
4.00%
8.00%
4.00%
q. s .
0.40%
0.10%
0,25%
1.60%
3.00%
75.25%
q. s .
0.40%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I1 Heat C t o 70C.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r unt i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /1950
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
212 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protective Moisture Cream
I naredi ent:
%w/w
1 Cuti na FS45 4.0
2 Cuti na CBS 8. 0
3 C eti ol LC 11 .o
4 P ar af f i n o i l 5. 0
5 P arsol MCX 2. 0
6 P arsol 1789 1. 0
7 KOH (20%) 1. 5
8 Gl yceri ne 5. 0
9 P reservati ve q . s .
1 0 Water t o 100.0
UV protecti on.
Components 7 8 8 are di ssol ved i n the water, which i s then
heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C. Formula TS 484
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a medium wei ght O/W s ki n cream wi th
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Very Light Cream
I nqredi ent:
%w/w
1 Dehydag Wax E 0. 5
2 Eutanol G 4. 5
3 Cuti na MD 3.5
4 Stenol 16-65 1.2
5 P reservati ve q . s .
6 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a very l i g h t O/W emol l i ent cream.
The f i r s t f our components are melted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
A t t h i s stage, the mi xture needs homogenisation by, f o r example,
a S i l vers on. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 483
Protective Day Cream
I ngredi ent : %w/w
1 Cuti na FS45 4.0
2 Cuti na CBS 8. 0
3 C eti ol 8 11 .o
4 P ar af f i n o i l 5. 0
5 P arsol MCX 2. 0
6 P arsol 1789 1 .o
7 KOH (20%) 1. 5
8 Gl yceri ne 5.0
9 P reservati ve q . s .
1 0 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a medium wei ght O/W s ki n cream wi th
UV protecti on.
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 7 8 8 are di ssol ved i n the water, which i s then
heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 490
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Creams 213
Protective Moisturizing Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Cuti na MD
2 Stenol 16-65
3 C eti ol MM
4 Eumulgin 82
5 Eutanol G
6 Ceti ol SN
7 Hygroplex HHG
8 P reservati ve
9 Water t o
%w/w
7 . 0
2. 0
5.0
3. 0
3. 0
7. 0
4. 0
q . s .
100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a r i c h f eel i ng O/W cream, o f medium
consi stency, which hel ps t o s ti mul ate the s ki n' s natural
regenerati ve powers.
onent seven i s then added t o the water and t hi s mi xture i s
al so heated t o 85C. The o i l phase i s then mixed i nt o the water
phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 185
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C. Comp-
Light Repair Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Cuti na MD
2 S i pol 16-18 C50
3 C eti ol MM
4 Eumulgin B2
5 Eutanol G
6 Myri tol 318
7 Repair Complex CLR
8 Col l agen CLR
9 E l as ti n CLR
10 P reservati ve
11 Water t o 1
%w/w
3. 5
1. 5
4. 0
1. 5
5. 0
5.0
5. 0
2.0
2. 0
q . s .
00.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a very l i ght f eel i ng O/W cream which
hel ps t o prepare the s ki n before sunbathi ng, by enhancing the
speed o f c e l l renewal.
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C. The
water i s heated t o the same temperature. The o i l phase i s
then mixed i nt o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should
conti nue down t o about 35C. Components seven t o ni ne can then
be i ncorporated, and the product homogenised.
Formula TS 253
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
214 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rejuvenating Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Eutanol G
Vasel i ne, whi te
Microwax HP 67
Epidermin i n o i l
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A15-13
Herbal Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
C eti ol V
Eutanol G
Vasel i ne, whi t e
Calendula o i 1 CLR
O i l of S t. J ohn's wort CLR
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A15-14
Vitamin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Eutanol G
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
Vi tami n E Grandelan spec.
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A15-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
10.0
10.0
6. 0
16.0
3. 0
1 . o
3.0
0.3
50. 7
%w/w
7. 0
5. 0
5. 0
5.0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 3
58.7
7. 0
10.0
6. 0
8. 0
12.0
2. 5
3. 0
0.3
51.2
Creams 215
Replenishing Cream
I nqredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Carbopol 934
P ropylene Gl ycol
Methyl Paraben
Phase B:
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate)
Hest MS (Myri sty1 S tearate)
Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 S tearate)
Hetan SS (S orbi tan S tearate)
Hetoxol P (E mul si fyi ng Wax)
Hetoxol G (S tearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth 20)
D i methi cone 350
P arsol MCX
Vi tami n E Acetate
P ropyl Paraben
Phase C:
H20, Dei oni zed
TEA 99%
Phase D:
Sodium Hyal uronate (1%)
S ol ubl e Col l agen
Phase E:
H20, Dei oni zed
Germall 115
- %
73.48
0.20
3.00
0. 25
6.00
3. 50
2.00
2. 00
2.00
0.60
0.80
2.00
0.25
0.15
1 .oo
0.22
1 . oo
0. 25
1 . oo
0.30
Procedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel ke t t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type
2) Add balance o f Phase A, heat t o 75C. I n a separate kettl e,
3) Add B t o A. Mi x u n t i l uni form. Avoi d aerati on.
4 ) Add Phase C premixed and cool t o 40C.
5) A t 40C, add Phase D t o batch.
6) Premix Phase E, add t o batch.
7 ) Mix u n t i l uni form.
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 6.80
Vi s cos i ty, #4/ 6 RPM: 65000
mi xer add H20. S l owl y s pri nkl e Carbopol 934 i nt o vortex whi l e
mi xi ng u n t i l f ree o f lumps.
combine i ngredi ents o f Phase B, heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Formula HC 91-12-1
216 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ritavena Hand and Body Cream
A natural hand and body cream designed around the benef i ts
o f c ol l oi dal oats (Ri tavena) t o provi de natural s ki n thera-
peuti c moi s turi z ati on and softeni ng.
I nqredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1. Di s t i 1 l ed/Dei oni zed Water 10.00 ----
2. Ritavena-5 (Hydrol yzed Oat F l our) 1 . OO Natural Moi sture
4. S orbi tol 3.50 Humectant
5. Methylparaben 0. 15 P reservati ve
6. F orl an 500 (R. I . T. A. Blend) 6.00 Emol l i ency
7. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 2.50 E mul s i f i er
8. Mi neral O i 1 (130-SUS-Penreco) 8.00 Emol 1 i ency
9. R i ta S teari c Aci d 2.00 E mul s i f i er
10.P ropylparaben 0. 05 P reservati ve
11, Tri ethanol ami ne @ 50% 0.80 pH
12.Germall I 1 @ 25% 0.80 P reservat i ve
Compounding P rocedure:
Heat f i r s t water t o 1OOC ( boi l i ng) , add i tem 2 and mix i n
bl ender f o r 2 mi nutes. Heat i tems 3-5 t o 75C. I n separate beaker
heat i tems 6-10 t o 75C. Combine wi th agi tati on. Add i tem 11 and
mai ntai n heat and agi tati on f or 10 mi nutes. Add Ri tavena mi xture
and mix u n t i l uni form. Cool wi th agi tati on. A t 45C add preserva-
t i ve .
Ref. No. 116-33
3. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 65.20 ----
Therapeutic Barrier Cream
El egant water i n o i l emulsion which r es i s ts chemicals and
o i l s better than s i l i c one systems. Based on R i tapl as t t o maximize
bar r i er properti es .
I nqredi ents:
1. Mi neral O i 1
2. R i tap1 as t ( Barri er Base)
3. R. I . T. A. Beeswax, Natural
4. L anol i n USP
5. R i tal an C (I sopropyl P al mi tate and
L anol i n O i l )
6. P ropylparaben
7. Ri tahydrox (Hydroxyl ated L anol i n)
8. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei oni zed Water
9. Borax
10.Methyparaben
11.Fragrance
Compoundi ng P rocedure:
Heat i tems 1-7 and i tems 8-10 t o 165F
Add o i l phase t o water phase wi th mi xi ng
fragrance.
Ref. No. 116-18
SOURCE: R . I . T . A. Corp.: S ki n Care Formula
%&yd
24.50
20.00
13.00
10.00
2. 00
0. 10
0. 30
28.50
1.30
0.10
0.20
F uncti on
O i 1 -Out
Barri er
Barri er
Barri er
F i l m
P reservat
Anchor
S tabi 1 i t y
P reservat
Odor
----
ve
ve
11 separate contai ners.
Cool t o 120F and add
Y
Creams 217
Skin Cream
A. Squalane
Beeswax
Amiter LG-OD
Cetyl Octanoate (Emalex CC-168)*
Hydrogenated O i l (Emalex S . T . G . - R . ) *
Behenyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
P ropylene Gl ycol Monostearate
Gl yceryl Monostearate, S el f Emu1 s i f y i ng
Di methyl pol ysi l oxane (300 c . s . )
Butyl paraben
Amihope LL
G1 yceri n
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose (1% aq. s ol n. )
Methylparaben
Water
*Nihon Emulsion Co .
P rocedure:
1. Mi x (A) at 8OC.
2. Mi x ( B ) a t 80C.
3. Add (A) t o ( 8) .
4. Mi x them wi th a homomixer, and then cool s l owl y t o 30C.
Note :
(Emalex GMS-7CAE)*
8. CAE
w t"/.
4. 0
1 . o
2. 0
3. 0
4. 0
1. 5
3. 0
1 . o
A.
B.
Thi s s ki n cream spreads wel l .
Skin Cream
L i qui d P etrol atum
Cetanol
P ropylene Gl ycol Monostearate
Gl yceryl Monostearate; S el f E mul si fyi ng (HLB 5)
POE (10) Monostearate
POE (30) Monostearate
Butyl paraben
Amihope LL
1 , 3- Butyl ene G1 ycol
Acyl gl utamate HS-11
Methylparaben
Water
(Emalex GMS-45RT; Nihon Emulsion Co. )
P rocedure:
1. Mi x ( A ) a t 80C.
2. Mi x ( B ) a t 80C.
3 . Add (B) t o ( A) .
4. Mi x them wi th a homomixer.
5. Cool them sl owl y t o 30C.
Note:
Thi s s ki n cream has l ow f r i c t i o n touch a f t e r use.
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested Formulations
5. 0
0. 4
0 . 1
1 . o
0. 5
5. 0
10. 0
0 . 2
5 8 . 3
w t Yo
17. 0
3 . 0
1 . o
3 . 0
2. 0
1 . o
0. 1
5. 0
5. 0
0. 3
0. 2
62. 4
218 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream, Anhydrous
Lanette 16
C eti ol V
Cuti na BW
Vasel i ne, whi te
Hard par af f i n 52C
Wool f a t , anhydrous
Formula No. A17-04
I Eumulg
C eti ol
Eutano
I I Water
Skin Cream O/W Transparent in Gel Form
n 83
HE
G
%w/w
10. 0
25.0
15. 0
35.0
5. 0
10.0
%w/w
13.0
20. 0
5 . 0
62. 0
P reparati on:
Eumulgin 83 and the f a t t y substances are mel ted on the water
bath a t 95C and the water i s added t o the f a t mel t al s o a t 95C.
The gel produced i s s t i r r e d whi l e cool i ng and perfume i s added
at 60C. The gel i s cool ed and s t i r r i n g conti nued, al though the
s t i r r i n g process shoul d be termi nated af ter a short whi l e t o
avoi d a i r pockets. I n order t o obtai n the desi red trensparency,
it i s essenti a1 t o observe the temperature speci f i ed.
Formula No. A17-05
Cream Base, Anhydrous
Cuti na HR
Myri tol 318
C eti ol SN
Eutanol G
Mg-Si e l pharma
Formula No. A17-06
Skin Cream, Anhydrous
Lanette 16
Dehymuls LS
Beeswax, whi te
Hard par af f i n 52C
Vasel i ne, whi te
C eti ol V
Formula No. A17-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
6 . 0
46. 5
2 0 . 0
2 0 . 0
7. 5
10. 0
10.0
15.0
5. 0
35.0
25.0
Creams 219
Skin Cream O/W
I Cuti na GMS
Lanette 0
Cuti na E24
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol 5845
Eutanol G
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
Formula No. A12-28
Skin Cream O/W with Shea Butter
I Cuti na GMS
Lanette 0
Eumulgin B2
Cuti na E24
C eti ol S845
I PP
I 1 Henkel G
Water
Formula No.
yceri n 86% DAB 9
A I 2-29
Skin Cream O/W with Shea Butter
I Cuti na GMS
Lanette 0
Cuti na E24
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol S8 45
Eutanol G
C eti ol SN
11.1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
Formula No. A12-30
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
12.0
1 . o
3. 0
1 . o
20. 0
10. 0
5. 0
48.0
%w/w
12.0
1 . o
1 . o
2.0
5. 0
5. 0
5 . 0
69. 0
%w/w
12. 0
1 . o
3. 0
1 . o
15.0
4. 0
4.0
3 . 0
5 7 . 0
220 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream O/W
I Cuti na E24
Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
C eti ol B
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng
Formula No. A12-19
Skin Cream O/W Fluid Type
I Cuti na E24
Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
C eti ol B
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: S of t consi stency, f l u i d
Formula No. 12-20
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB/Ceti ol MM
Eutanol G
Vase1 i ne
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesi um sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula A12-21
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
96w/w
5. 0
10.0
2. 0
4. 0
4. 0
8.0
5. 0
62.0
U W
4. 0
6. 0
1. 5
8. 0
5. 0
75.5
%VW&
8.0
5. 0
3. 0
15.0
3. 0
5. 0
0. 3
60.7
Creams 221
Skin Cream O/W
(Soft Cream)
I Cuti na MO
Cuti na CP
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol B
I 1 Carbopol 940
Tri ethanol ami ne
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: Thi s model formul a cons ti tutes a par ti c ul ar l y s of t,
Formula Al l - 18
smooth and easy- to- appl y o/w-type cream.
Day Cream O/W
I Cuti na E24
Cuti na MO
Eutanol G
C eti ol B
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: S of t consi stency, low f a t t i ng
Formula Al l - 19
Day Cream O/W
(Soft Cream)
I Cuti na CBS
Eumulgin 31
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol SN
Eutanol G
I sopropyl pal mi tate
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula A1 1-20
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
4. 0
4 . 0
1 . o
1 . o
5. 0
0.5
0. 5
3.0
81. 0
96w/w
4. 0
15. 0
3. 0
3. 0
5 . 0
70. 0
12. 0
1. 5
1. 5
4. 0
4. 0
6. 0
5. 0
66.0
222 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream, Tinted Matting O/W
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Chol es teri n
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Pigment col ors
I 1 Luvi skol K30
A1 l antoi n
1,2-propylene gl ycol
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
Formula No. P12-01
%w/w
3. 5
1.2
2.0
0. 5
3. 0
2. 5
1. 5
0. 3
2. 0
1 . o
82. 5
Skin Cream, Tinted, with Pearly Gloss O/W
0 -
I Cuti na MD 3. 5
Lanette 0 1. 2
S i egert S teari n L2 SM 2. 0
Chol esteri n 0.5
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous 3. 0
Pigment col ors 2. 5
I 1 Luvi skol K30
A1 1 antoi n
T r i ethanol ami ne
1,2-propylene gl ycol
Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
1. 5
0. 3
1.0
2. 0
20.0
57.5
I11 Ti mi ron S tarl us ter MP 115 5. 0
Formula No. P12-02
Rouge Cream, Anhydrous
I Cuti na LM
Eutanol G
I 1 Pigment col ors
Cosmetic ti tani um di oxi de 300309
Formula No. P13-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
79.0
15.0
4. 0
2. 0
Creams 223
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Vasel i ne
P ar af f i n o i l , l i q u i d
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula A12-22
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Vasel i ne, whi te
P ar af f i n o i l , l i q u i d
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula A1 2-23
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Dehymuls LS
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P ar af f i n o i l , l i q u i d
Mi crowax
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula A 12-24
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
12. 0
35.0
15.0
2. 0
5.0
0. 3
30.7
%w/w
12.0
30.0
15. 0
2. 0
5.0
0.3
35.7
%w/w
10.0
10.0
10.0
7. 0
15.0
10.0
4. 0
3.0
0.3
30.7
224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Vegetable oi 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
%w/w
10. 0
10.0
7. 0
25.0
10.0
4. 0
3.0
0.3
30. 7
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng
Example o f a w/o-type cream wi th extremel y l ow water content,
good heat s t a bl i t y and smooth s tructure.
Formula No. A12-16
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Note: Very s of t cream s tructure
Formula No. A12-17
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i 1, low vi scous
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Note: Hi gh- f atti ng
Formula No. A12-18
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
8 . 0
8.0
15. 0
20.0
5 . 0
3. 0
0. 3
40.7
%w/w
8. 0
7.0
12.0
25.0
12.0
2. 0
3.0
0. 3
30.7
Creams 225
Skin Cream W/O with Collagen
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
P ar af f i n o i 1, hi gh vi scous
Vase1 i ne, whi te
I 1 Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
I11 Collagen
Note: pH s etti ng 3.7 t o 6.5
P reparati on: Heat I t o 70C, gradual l y s t i r i n I 1 at 75'2,
Formula No. A15-07
add I11 t o the cream a t 35C.
Care Cream O/W with Azulene and Allantoin
I Cuti na KD 16
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
Myr i tol 318
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Al l antoi n
lI 2-propy1 ene gl ycol
Water
I11 Azulene s ol uti on 25% a. s .
Set PH t o 7
%w/w
25.0
6.0
4.0
5.0
0. 3
54.7
5. 0
%w/w
16.00
1 . oo
12.00
4.00
6.00
0.20
3.00
57.75
0.05
Note-: Medium-fatting, medium s o f t consi stency, l i g h t bl ue t i nt
Formula No. A15-08
due t o azulene addi ti ve.
Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Anhydrous
Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
C eti ol SN
Cuti na BW
Vasel i ne, whi te
Wheatgerrn o i l , spec.
Vi tami n o i 1 B i ocorno
Extrapon VC
Carrot o i l CLR
Oxynex 2004
Formula No. A15-09
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmatlc Model Formulae
%w/w
24.98
16.00
5.00
10.00
35.00
3.00
4.00
1 . oo
1 . oo
0.02
226 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream W/O with St. J ohn's Wort Oil
I Dehymuls F
Eutanol G
C eti ol V
C eti ol M M
Vase1 i ne
Calendula o i l
S t . J ohn's wort o i l
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. A15-19
I I I P e
Formu
Skin Cream O/W with Avocado Oil
I Lamecreme LPM
Lamecreme SA 7
Lanette 16
Cuti na CP
Wool f a t
Avocado o i l
Cegesoft C24
S i l i c on o i l AK 350
P araf f i n o i l
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
fume
a No. A15-20
Glycerine Cream O/W with Silicone
I Lanette 16
Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eutanol G
Baysi l on- 0i 1 M300
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
I11 Cremogen camomile
%w/w
7. 0
5. 0
5. 0
5. 0
10.0
3. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 3
58. 7
%w/W
8. 0
0. 5
2. 0
5. 0
2. 5
3.0
4. 0
0. 5
4. 6
5. 0
64.8
0. 2
36w/w
2. 0
14.0
3. 0
10.0
5. 0
30.0
35.8
0. 2
P reparati on: Heat phase I t o 75C, s t i r i n phase I 1 a t 8OC, add
Formula No. A16-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
phase I11 t o the cream a t 40C.
Creams 221
Skin Cream W/O with Shea Butter
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol SB 45
C eti ol V
C eti ol 868
Vasel i ne, whi te
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A12-25
Skin Cream W/O Shea Butter
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol SB 45
C eti ol 868
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formul a A1 2-26
Skin Cream O/W
I Cuti na CBS
Cuti na E24
Eumulg n 82
C eti ol SB 45
Eutano G
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
Water
Formula A I 2-27
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
8.0
10.0
6.0
4. 0
12.0
5.0
0. 3
54. 7
9bw/w
8 . 0
10.0
5. 0
15. 0
5. 0
5. 0
0. 3
51 . 7
o/ow/w
14. 0
3 . 0
1. 0
20.0
5 . 0
5. 0
52.0
228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Protecting Cream O/W with Silicone
I Lanette 0
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin B2
C eti ol SN
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Baysi 1 on-0i 1 M300
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. A17-01
Skin Protecting Cream O/W Against Solvents
I Lanette N/SX
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eutanol G
Tal c
Kaol i n
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 7
Tri ethanol ami ne
Dehydrol 7000-3% s ol uti on
Water
Formula A1 7-02
?@vJJ
8. 0
1. 5
1. 5
15. 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
6. 0
58. 0
%w/w
6. 0
6. 0
8. 0
5 . 0
5 . 0
10.0
0. 3
30.0
29. 7
Skin Protecting Cream W/O Against Aqueous Solutions
I Dehymuls E
Vase1 i ne, whi te
C eti ol V
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Zi nc oxi de
Tal c
7. 0
10. 0
5. 0
5. 0
10. 0
10.0
I 1 Water 53. 0
Formula No. A17-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 229
Smoothing Care Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Cuti na FS45
%w/w
6.0
2 C eti ol LC 11.0
3 Lorol C16 1 . 5
4 Lorol C18 1. 5
5 Cuti na MD 3. 0
6 KOH (20%) 2. 0
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a very hard, heavy wei ght O/W s ki n
cream wi th an excepti onal l y smooth, enri chi ng f eel .
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 6 i s di ssol ved i n the water t o the same temperature.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 500
I naredi ent :
1 Cuti na FS25
Emollient Care Cream
%w/w
5. 0 ~~
2 i i t i o i B 9. 0
3 Lorol C16 1. 5
4 Lorol C18 1. 5
5 Cuti na MD 3. 0
6 KOH (20%) 1. 75
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a s of t, medium wei ght O/W s ki n cream.
The f i r s t f i ve components are mel ted together at about 85C.
Component 6 i s di ssol ved i n the water which i s heated t o the
same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added t o the water
phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 501
Night Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Emulaade CL soeci al
%w/w
20. 0
2 S i l i cone o i l MIOO 1 . o
3 Fragrance q . s .
4 P reservati ve q . s .
5 Water t o 100.0
i ng f eel on the s ki n.
heated t o about 85C. The mi xture i s vi gorousl y mixed u n t i l
homogeneous. It can then be cooled, wi th moderate mi xi ng down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 510
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W cream which has a r i c h, smooth-
Components 1 and 2 are added t o the water and the mi xture i s
230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soft Touch Cleansing Cream
%w/w
A. Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S ol ' n. 50.0
l I 3- Buty1 ene G1 ycol 12.0
Tween 20 0. 5
Tween 80 0. 5
Dei oni zed Water 0 . 0
B. Mi neral O i l , Heavy 20.0
Arl acel 60 1. 0
Proto-Lan B* 3. 0
S ol ul an 98 1 . o
C . Gl ydant DMDMH-55 0. 3
May-Tein KTS (Sodium/TEA Lauryl Hydrol yzed K erati n) 2.0
T r i ethanol ami ne-99% 1. 5
D. Fragrance 0. 2
*( L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrolyzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosine (and) Sesame O i l (and)
Lanol i n Al cohol )
Procedure:
Add C. Mix c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d entrappi ng a i r . Mix and cool t o
40C. Add D.
P roperti es :
f eel . May be washed o f f or ri ns ed o f f wi th water. Non-drying.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #SW-3241
Heat Phase A & B separatel y t o 8OC. Add B t o A wi th mi xi ng.
A mi l d, creamy f ac i al cl eanser which l eaves a smooth af ter -
Care Cream
S ol i d cream. Good s preadabi l i ty, good absorpti on. Leaves a
pl easant s of t touch.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A . Emu1 gator E21 55/ S tearyl Al cohol (and) Steareth-
Steareth-10
I sop ropy1 myr i s tat / I sop ropy 1 Myr i s tate
S tearyl al kohol / S tearyl Al cohol
P araf f i no1 / Mi neral O i 1
Wacker-Belsi 1 DM IOO/Dimethicone
Wacker-Belsil SM-BOlB/Stearyl Methicone
B. Gl yceri n/ Gl yceri ne
Wasser dest./Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
7 (and)
6. 00%
10.00
1 . oo
3.00
2.00
5. 00
3.00
70.00
q . s .
Heat A and B t o 65C, mix and homogenize, cool whi l s t s t i r r i ng.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 1325 AH
Creams 231
Sunflower Oil Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Eumulgin 62
2 Monomuls 60-35
%w/w
3.0
3. 1
3 Novata AB 4.8
4 Sunflower O i l 10.2
5 Lorol C16 2.05
6 Lorol C18 2.05
7 P reservat i ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves an O/W Cream, wi th good spreadi ng
and a medium wei ght f eel .
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C. The
water i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down
t o about 3%.
Formula TS 417
Sunflower Oil Cream with Protein
I nnredi ent:
1 Eumulain 82
%w/w
3.0
2 Monomils 60-35 3 . 1
3 Novata A6 4.5
4 Sunflower O i l 10.2
5 Lorol C16 2.05
6 Lorol C18 2.05
7 Gl uadi n AGP 1 .o
8 P reservat i ve q . s .
9 Water t o 100.0
a medium wei ght f eel .
onent seven i s di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture i s
al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added t o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o
about 35C.
Formula TS 418
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W Cream, wi th good spreadi ng and
The f i r s t s i x components are heated together t o 85C. Comp-
Light Moisturizing Cream
I ns redi ent:
1 Eumulgin 82
2 Myr i tol 318
3 Ceti ol SB45
%w/w
3. 0
10.0
5.1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 2. 2
6 Hygroplex HHG 2. 0
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
ur i s i ng ef f ect.
Component 6 i s di ssol ved i n the water and heated t o the same
temperature as the o i l phase. The o i l phase i s then added t o
the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 460
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Cafe P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a l i g h t O/W cream wi th natural moi st-
The f i r s t f i ve components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
232 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tinted-Day-Cream
Recipe:
Hostaohat KW 340 N
T r i ceteareth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl -2 PEG-4 S tearate
Cocoa Butter
Cocos o i l
Walnut o i l
Neo-He1 i opan AV
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Neo-He1 i opan BB
Benzophenone-3
Anti oxi dant
Water
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
P reservati ve
Magnabrite HV (4% i n water)
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c at e
Ti tani um di oxi de
Tal cum
Pigment S i copharm ye1 1 ow
Pigment Sicopharm red
Pigment Sicopharm bl ack
Desaron
Desamido Collagen (and) Hyal uroni c Aci d
Hygroderm
"Moi sturi zi ng"- F actor
Perfume
3.00%
8.00%
1 .OO%
9.00%
5.00%
0.90%
0.10%
q.s.
38.75%
0.10%
0.25%
9, s .
17.50%
6.00%
1.00%
0.60%
0.40%
0.10%
5. 00%
3. 00%
0.30%
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C.
I 1 Heat B t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I.
I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V Add D i nt o C, then homogenize.
V I A t 35C s t i r V i nt o I V , then add the components of E .
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es :
Formula A VI / 3608
C r e a m s 2 3 3
Universal D ay Cream O / W
%w/w
I C u t i n a MD 15.0
E u m u l g i n SMO 20 4.0
E utano l G 4.0
C e t i o l B 5.0
Cetio l LC 3.0
II Henk el Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 3.0
Water 66.0
F o r m u l a No . A 1 1 - 2 5
U niversal Day Cream O/W
%W/W
I C u ti na MD 15.0
Deh y m u l s SMO 1 .0
E u m u l g i n SMO 20 4.0
E u tano l G 4.0
Ceti o l B 5.0
C e t i o l LC 3.0
I I Henk el Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 3, 0
Water 65.0
F o r m u l a No . A 11-26
Day Cream O/W
w/w
I C u t i n a MD 14.0
E u m u l g i n SMO 20 4.0
E u tano l G 3.0
C e t i o l S 3, 0
Lanette O 1.0
I I H e n k e l Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 3, 0
Water 72.0
F o r m u l a No . A 11- 27
Skin Cream O/W
%w/w
I C u t i n a MD 14.0
D e h y m u l s SML 1 . O
E u m u l g i n SML 20 3.0
E u t a n o l G 5.0
C eti o l B 5.0
Lanette O 0.5
I I Henk el Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 5.0
Water 66.5
F o r m u l a No . A 11-28
SOURCE : Henk el KGaA: Co sm etic Mo del F o r m u l a e
234 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Universal Skin Cream O / W
%w/w
I C u t i n a MD 14.0
D e h y m u l s SML 2.5
E u m u l g i n SML 20 1.5
E utano l G 5.0
Cetio l B 5.0
Lanette O 1.0
I I Henk el Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 3.0
Water 68.0
F o r m u l a A 11-29
Skin Cream O/W With Pleasurable Melting-on Effect
%w/w
I C u t i n a MD 10.0
Lanette O 2.0
E u m u l g i n B1 1.5
E u m u l g i n B2 1.5
No vata AB/ C eti o l MM 5.0
E u tano l G 10.0
Par affi n o i l , h i g h vi sco u s 5 .0
I I Henk el Gl y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 5.0
Water 60.0
F o r m u l a A11-30
Day Cream O/W
%W/W
I C u ti na MD 14.00
F o r l a n i t E 1 . OO
E u t a n o l G 4.00
P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h vi sco u s 2.00
I I 1, 2- p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l 5.00
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.19
Water 73.81
F o r m u l a A 1 1 - 3 1
Day Cream O/W
%w/w
I E m u l g a d e CA/CL spec. 25.0
II Water 75.0
F o r m u l a A 11- 3 3
SOURCE : Henk el KGaA: Co sm etic Mo del F o r m u l a e
Creams 235
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
Ceti ol V
Vegetable o i l
Vasel i ne, whi te
I I Water
Note: Medium f atti ng, medium s o l i d consi stency
Formula No. A13-01
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
I 1 Water
Note: Medium f atti ng, medium s o l i d consi stency
Formula No. A13-02
Myr i tol 318
Vasel i ne, whi te
Universal Skin Cream W/O Hydrocarbon-Free
I Dehymuls E
Ceti ol V
Vegetable oi 1
1 1 Water
% -
20. 0
5. 0
5. 0
5. 0
65.0
%&4J
25.0
10.0
5.0
60.0
%w/w
15.0
15.0
5. 0
65.0
Note: Medium f atti ng, w/o-type cream wi th a s of t consi stency,
Formula No. A13-03
model formul a wi thout vasel i ne.
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls E
C eti ol V
Cuti na BW
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Henkel gl yceri n 80% DAB 9
Water
Note: Medium f a t t i ng
Formula A1 3-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
7.0
6. 0
3.0
12.0
6.0
0. 3
5. 0
60. 7
236 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
Cuti na BW
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Note: Medium f a t t i ng
Formula No. A13-05
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
I 1 Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Mote: Medium f a t t i ng
Formula No. A13-06
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
Eutanol G
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
%w/w
22. 0
3. 0
3.0
5 . 0
3.0
0.3
5. 0
58.7
%w/w
30.0
4. 0
5. 0
0.3
5. 0
55.7
%w/w
8. 0
5. 0
3. 0
15. 0
3.0
5. 0
0. 3
60.7
Note: Thi s s ki n cream i s an example o f the possi bl e uses o f the
Novata s o l i d tr i gl yc er i des . The addi ti on of Novata AB
enhances the overal l s tructure o f the cream; i t al l ows
the hydrocarbon shares ei ther t o be reduced or t o be
repl aced compl etel y. The addi ti on o f a maximum o f 6%
tr i gl yc er i de improves the mel ti ng properti es o f creams
on the s ki n.
Formula No. A13-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 237
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A13-08
Universal Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
Eutanol G
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , low vi scous
Microwax HP 67
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
8. 0
15. 0
8 . 0
3. 0
0. 3
65.7
%w/w
8.0
5. 0
3. 0
15. 0
3. 0
2 . o
3. 0
0. 3
60. 7
Note: Thi s s ki n cream i s an example o f the pos s i bl e uses of the
Novata s ol i d tr i gl yc er i des . The addi ti on of Novata AB
enhances the overal l s tructure o f the cream; i t al l ows
the hydrocarbon shares ei ther t o be reduced or t o be
repl aced compl etel y. The addi ti on o f a maximum o f 6%
tr i gl yc er i de improves the mel ti ng properti es o f creams
on the s ki n.
Formula No. A13-09
Skin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
Dehymuls LS
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
I1 Water
Formula No. A13-10
Source: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model Formulae
20.0
5. 0
10.0
10.0
5 5 . 0
238 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Urban Protection Day Cream
Thi s l i g h t textured day cream contai ns an ef f ec ti ve l evel o f
natural anti oxi dants t o provi de protecti on from urban envi ron-
mental i nfl uences. The anti oxi dants are i n the form o f l i po-
somes as Dermasome SOD and Dermasome E t o provi de enhanced
penetrati on and ef f i cacy and the P rotein-bound Biomin SE/P /C.
I ngredi ents/C. T. F . A. :
Demi neral i zed Water
Carbopol 1342, 2%/Carbomer
Gl yceri ne
Brookswax D/Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Ceteareth-20
F i nsol v TN/C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate
DC 200 F l ui d, 350 cs/Dimethicone
Germaben 11-E/Propylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl I
E i omi n Se/P/C/Sel eni urn Pol ypepti des
Dermasome SOD/Leci t h i n (and) Superoxide Dimutase
Dermasome E / L eci thi n (and) Tocopheryl Acetate
AMP-95/Aminomethylpropanol
(and) Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
% by Weight
65.00
15.00
2. 00
1. 00
2. 00
0. 50
1 . oo
0. 30
10.00
3.00
0. 20
J rea
Procedure:
1. Di sperse the Carbopol i n water whi l e heati ng t o 75C.
2. Add the Gl yceri n and mix wel l .
3. Blend the F i nsol v TN, Brookswax D , and S i l i cone F l ui d a t 70C
u n t i l uni form and add t o water phase. Mi x u n t i l uni form.
4 . Add the AMP-95 and mix u n t i l uni form wi th f as t propel l or
agi tati on.
5. Cool t o 50C and add the Biomin SE/P/C and Germaben wi th
sweep agi t a t i on.
6. Cool t o 35C and add the Dermasomes.
7 . Fragrance as desi red and mix we1 1.
8 . Adj ust pH t o 5. 0 wi th C i t r i c Aci d i f requi red,
F ormul ati on PF-0163 suggested by Brooks I ndus tri es , I nc.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Creams 239
Vitamin Cream O/W
I Cuti na KD16
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
Vi tami n oi 1 Bi ocorno
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne ester
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 80% DAB 9
Water
Set pH t o 7
Formula N O , A15-01
Vitamin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
Vegetable oi 1
Vi tami n E Grandelan spec.
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne ester
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. A15-02
Water
Vitamin Cream with Placenta Extract O/W
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin 81
Eutanol G
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Wheat germ o i l spec.
P l acenta l i qui d, oi l - s ol ubl e
I 1 Water
Note: S of t consi stency
Formula No. A15-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
16. 0
1 . o
12.0
5. 0
3. 0
5. 0
58. 0
%w/w
30.0
10. 0
5. 0
5. 0
5. 0
45.0
%w/w
15. 0
3. 0
10.0
3. 0
2. 0
3. 0
64.0
240 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vitamin Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
Vase1 i ne, whi te
Vi tami n o i 1 Bi ocorno
I1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesi um sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. A15-16
Vitamin Cream O/W
I Cuti na E24
Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
C eti ol B
Myri tol 318
Vi tami n F gl yceri ne es ter CLR
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. A15-17
Cream O/W With Elastin
I Cuti na CBS
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin B2
Eutanol G
C eti ol 868
Avocado o i l
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
sbw/ w
7. 0
7. 0
6. 0
10.0
6. 0
3. 0
0. 3
60.7
%w/w
4. 0
5.0
2. 0
8. 0
6. 0
3. 0
5. 0
67.0
56w/w
12.0
1. 5
1. 5
10.0
10.0
3.0
5. 0
47.0
I11 E l as ti n 10. 0
P reparati on: Heat phase I t o 75C, s t i r i n phase I 1 heated t o
80C. Add phase I 1 1 t o the cream a t 40C. The pH i s adj usted
t o 4.5-5.5 wi th c i t r i c aci d, f or example.
Formula No. A15-18
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Creams 241
Wash Cream
White thick lotion. Pleasant, soft feeling on the skin.
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A: Tegi naci d/Gl yceryl S tearate (and) Ceteareth-20 10. 00%
Ado1 66/ I sostearyl Al cohol 5. 00
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol
Texapon N 40/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
B: B el s i l DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol
P ropylene G1 ycol
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Heat A and B each t o 65C. Mi x B wel l i nt o A.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C B weeks.
F ormul ati on 362 AH
Cleansing Cream
White firm cream.
MaterialjCTFA-I ndex:
A: Lanette N/Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl
S ul f ate
Vasel i ne/P etrol atum
P ar af f i n
Mi neral o i l , l ow vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl Myri s tate
B: B el s i l DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate
Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Heat A and B each t o 70C, mix B wel l i nt o A .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 361 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
6. 00
4.00
5. 00
5. 00
1 . oo
11 . oo
53.00
q . s
12.00%
9. 00
2. 00
5. 00
2. 00
3.00
4.00
63.00
q. s .
242 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Washing Cream
White f i r m cream. Good cl eansi ng ef f ec t and s of t f eel i ng on
the s ki n
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Lamecreme KSM/Glvcervl S tearate se
Lanette O/Cetear;l Aj cohol
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Bel s i 1 DM 35O/Dimethi cone
Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol
Texapon N 40/Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
Water
Bel s i 1 DMC 6032/Di methi cone Copol yo1 Aceta
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
B: P ropylene Gl ycol
e
10.00%
5. 00
6. 00
2. 00
4.00
5. 00
5. 00
12. 00
46.50
4.50
q . s .
Heat A and B each t o 65C, mix B i n t o A, s t r col d
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 397 AH
Day Cream
White f i r m cream wi th a s i l ky shi ne. Absorbed wel l , l eaves a
dry f eel i ng on the s ki n.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: S teari c Aci d 25.00%
Bel s i l PDM 20/Phenyl Dimethicone 5. 00
B: Gl yceri ne 8. 00
A mi nomethyl propanol 1. 50
Water 60. 50
Heat A and B each t o 75C. S t i r A sl owl y i nt o B. S t i r col d.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 399 AH
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments q . s .
Skin Cream
White, creamy, silky shine.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A : Bel s i l PDM 2O/Phenvl Dimethicone
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
Tri ethanol ami ne
Wasser dest. /Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Heat A and B each t o 80C, s t i r A i nt o B.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 187/3 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
B: Gl yceri ne
3.60%
4.20
1 . oo
2. 00
0.80
88. 40
9 , s .
Creams 243
Water In Oil Foundation Cream
(0) L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
Squal ane
Beeswax
Amiter LGOD
Ami ter LGS-2
Amerchol H-9
S orbi tan Monooleate
T i tani urn Di oxi de
Aluminum Monostearate
( W) Aj i dew N-50
P ropylene G1 ycol
Water
P reservati ve
W S
8. 0
15. 1
8. 0
3. 3
1. 2
1. 7
0. 6
7. 0
1. 5
2 . 0
5. 0
46.6
9 . S .
Procedure:
1. Suspend ti tani um di oxi de and aluminum monostearate t o the
mi xture o f l i q u i d par af f i n and squalane.
2. Add other (0) i ngredi ents t o the suspension.
3. Heat ( 0 ) t o 90-1OOC t o di ssol ve.
4. Heat (W) t o 85C.
5. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) sl owl y wi th s t i r r i ng.
6. Cool t o 40C wi th s t i r r i ng.
pH: 5. 2
Vanishing Cream
(0) S teari c Aci d
L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Hydrogenated L anol i n
Ni kkol WCB
Gl yceryl Monostearate ( S el f Emu1 s i f yi ng Type)
P ol yoxyethyl ene ( 2 0 ) Cetyl Ether
(W) Aj i dew N-50
P ropylene G1 ycol
G1 yceri n
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
P reservati ve
Procedure:
1. Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 85-86C.
2 . Add ( W) t o ( 0 ) sl owl y wi th agi tati on.
3. Cool sl owl y t o 30C wi th s t i r r i ng.
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
pH: 7. 2
Wt%
8. 0
3.0
3. 0
2. 0
2 . 0
1. 3
1. 7
3. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 5
69. 5
9, s .
244 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O-Cream
Recipe:
A Hostaceri n WO
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S esqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax
(and) Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i 1 (and)
Magnesium S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
P ermulgin 3510
Beeswax (and) Vasel i ne
Shea Butter
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Walnut oi 1
Anti oxi dant
Ethylendiamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% in water)
Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
B Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t BOC.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I.
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/2717
I 1 Heat B t o BOC.
I V S t i r unt i l cool .
W/O-Cream
Recipe:
A Hostaceri n WO
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S esqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax
(and) Mi crocrys tal l i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i l
(and) Magnesium S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
Lunacera M
Mi crocrys tal l i ne Wax
Vase1 i ne
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
I sopropyl pal mi tate
B Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 00C. I 1 Heat B t o BOC.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . I V S t i r unt i l cool .
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/2707
10.00%
4.00%
2.00%
7.00%
7.00%
4.00%
9 . S .
0.10%
0.25%
4.00%
61.25%
q . s .
0.40%
8. 00%
4.00%
4.00%
10.00%
8.00%
4.00%
61 .60%
q . s .
0.40%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Creams 245
W/O-Cream
Recipe!
A Hostaceri n WO
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 Sesqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax
(and) Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax (and) Mi neral O i 1
(and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stearate
P ermulgin 3510
Beeswax (and) Vasel i ne
Mi neral o i 1, low vi scosi t y
Eutanol G
Octyldodecanol
Walnut o i l
Anti oxi dant
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
E thyl endi ami ne Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodi um S al t
B Al l antoi n
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
Gl yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
C Desaron
Desami do Col 1 agen (and) Hyal uron
Perfume
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 8OC. I 1
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V
V A t 35C add the components o f C
Formula A VI/3804
c Aci d
W/O-Cream
Reci pe :
Hostaceri n WOL
Heat B t o
S t i r unti
0 I V .
80C.
coo
10.00%
3.00%
10.00%
5.00%
4.00%
q. s .
0 I20%
0.10%
0.25%
3.00%
60.05%
q. s.
5.00%
0 I 40%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 Sesqui i sostearate (and) Mi neral O i l
(and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stearate
Beeswax
Lunacera M
Mi crocrystal 1 i ne Wax
Vase1 i ne
Mi neral o i l , hi gh vi s cos i ty
C eti ol 868
Octyl Stearate
Water
P reservat i ve
Perfume
5.00%
1 .OO%
3.00%
7.00%
7.00%
5.00%
71.60%
4. s .
0.40%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 8OC. I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/2752
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
246 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O-Cream
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n WO
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S esqui i sostearate (and) Beeswax
(and) Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax (and) M i neral O i 1
(and) Magnesium S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
Permul gi n 351 0
Beeswax (and) Vasel i ne
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Sunf 1 ower o i 1
Almond o i l
Wheat germ o i l
Anti oxi dant
E thyl endi ami ne Tet raacet i c Aci d-Sodi um Sa1 t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 80C. I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nto I. I V Stir u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/2713
B Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
W/O-Cream
Reci pe :
A Hostaceri n WOL
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 S esqui i sostearate (and) Mi neral O i l
(and) Magnesium S tearate (and) Aluminum S tearate
Lunacera M
Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne Wax
Mi neral o i l , low vi s cos i ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
I sopropyl i s os tearate
Per h yd rosqual ene
D-Panthenol
B 1,2-P ropylenglycol
Magnesi um s ul f ate
Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 8OC. I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r unt i l cool .
V A t 35C add C t o I V .
Formula A VI/2750
10.00%
4.00%
7.00%
7.00%
5.00%
3.00%
2.00%
q. s.
0.10%
0.25%
4.00%
57.25%
q. s .
0.40%
5.00%
2.00%
5.00%
5.00%
5.00%
5.00%
0.50%
4.00%
0.70%
66.40%
q. s .
0.40%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Creams 247
W/ O- Cr eam
Reci pe:
A Host acer i n WOL
Pol ygl ycer yl - 2 Sesqui i sost ear at e ( and) Mi ner al Oi l
( and) Magnesi um St ear at e ( and) Al umi num St ear at e
Beeswax
Mi ner al oi 1 , l ow vi scosi t y
Per hydr o squal ene
Al mond oi 1
Sunf l ower oi l
Wheat ger moi l
Ant i oxi dant
B Aquamol l i n BC Pl v. hochkonz.
Et hyl endi ami ne Tet r aacet i c Aci d- Sodi umSal t
Ci t r i c aci d (10% i n wat er )
Gl ycer i ne
Wat er
Pr eser vat i ve
C Per f ume
Pr ocedur e:
I Mel t A at 80C.
I 11 St i r I 1 i nt o I .
V At 35C add C t o I V.
For mul a A VI / 2753
I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
I V St i r unt i l cool .
W/ O- Cr eam
Reci pe :
A Host acer i n WOL
Pol ygl ycer yl - 2 Sesqui i sost ear at e ( and) Mi ner al Oi l
( and) Magnesi um St ear at e ( and) Al umi num St ear at e
Beeswax
Lunacer a M
Mi cr ocr yst al l i ne Wax
Mi ner al 01 1 , l ow vi scosi t y
I sopr opyl pal mi t at e
Cet i ol SN
Cet ear yl I sononanoat e
B Gl ycer i ne
Wat er
Pr eser vat i ve
C Per f ume
Pr ocedur e:
I Mel t A at 80C. I 1 Heat B t o 80C.
I 11 St i r I 1 i nt o I . I V St i r unt i l cool
V At 35C add C t o I V.
For mul a A VI / 2751
7. 00%
3. 00%
4.00%
4.00%
7.00%
4.00%
1 .OO%
q . s .
0.10%
0. 25%
3. 00%
66. 25%
q. s .
0.40%
5. 00%
1.00%
1 .OO%
8. 00%
5. 00%
5. 00%
3. 00%
71. 60%
q. s.
0.40%
SOURCE: Hoechst : Gu i d e For mul at i ons f or Cosmet i cs & Toi l et r i es
248 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/ O- Cr eam
Reci pe:
A Host acer i n DGI
Pol ygl ycer yl - 2 Sesqui i sost ear at e
Lunacer a M
Mi cr ocr yst al 1 i ne Wax
Mi ner al oi 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
Cet i ol SN
Cet ear yl I sononanoat e
4.00%
4.00%
10.00%
8.00%
B Gi l ugel I PP 8. 00%
I sopr opyl Pal mi t at e ( and) Al umi num/ Magnesi um
Hydr oxi de St ear at e
C Wat er
Pr eser vat i ve
65. 60%
q. s .
D Per f ume 0. 40%
Pr ocedur e:
I Mel t A at BOC.
I 11 Heat C t o 8OC.
V St i r unt i l cool
For mul a A VI / 2805
I 1 St i r B i nt o I ( Ul t r a- Tur r ax)
I V St i r I 11 i nt o 11.
VI At 35C add D t o V .
All Round-Cream
Reci pe:
A Host acer i n WO 10.00%
Pol ygl ycer yl - 2 Sesqui i sost ear at e ( and) Beeswax
( and) Mi cr ocr yst al l i ne Wax ( and) Mi ner al Oi l
( and) Magnesi um St ear at e ( and) Al umi num St ear at e
Mi ner al oi 1, hi gh vi scosi t y 10.00%
I sopr opyl pal mi t at e 10. 00%
8 Wat er
Pr eser vat i ve
C Per f ume
Pr ocedur e:
I Mel t A at 80C. I 1 Heat B t o 8OC.
I 11 St i r I 1 i nt o I . I V St i r unt i l coo
V At 35C add C t o I V
For mul a A VI / 2703
SOURCE: Hoechst : Gui de For mul at i ons f or Cosmet i cs
69. 60%
q. s .
0. 40%
& Toi l et r i es
Creams 249
W/O Cream with Eldew
I nqredi ents/ Trade Name: % b y Weight
P art A:
Di - (Chol esteryl , behenyl, octyl dodecyl )
Cetearyl Octanoate 8.00
C12-15 Al kyl Benzoate 5. 00
Phenoxyethanol 0.60
Tocopheryl Acetate 0. 05
P art B:
P ol ygl yceryl - 4 I sostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone
N- Lauroyl - L- gl utamati c aci d ester/Eldew CL-301 2. 00
Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate 5. 00
Cetyl Dimethicone 2. 00
P art C :
Deionized Water 68.55
Sodium Chl ori de 0.80
Gl yceri n (99.5%) 5. 00
P ar ti al l y Deacetyl ated C hi ti n (l . O%)/Mari ne Dew PC-100 2.00
P art D:
Butyl ene Gl ycol 0. 80
Methylparaben 0. 20
Procedure:
P art A . P re-melt P art D by heati ng t o 50 degrees C. Add
t o P art C . Sl owl y add P art C and D mi xture t o P arts A and B
wi th hi gh shear mi xi ng.
P re-melt P art A a t 50 degrees Centi grade. Add P art B t o
Appearance: White, smooth, shny l oti on.
Vi s cos i ty: 20,000 cps (RVT #6 @ IOrpm @ 25 degrees C)
pH: 6. 00- 6. 50
Hand Cream
(0) L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
Cetyl Al cohol
Ni kkol WCB
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Gl yceryl Monostearate ( S el f E mul si fyi ng Type)
P ol yoxyethyl ene (20) Cetyl Ether
Water
P reservat i ve
( W) Aj i dew N-50
Procedure:
1. Heat (0) and (W) t o 80C.
2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) sl owl y wi th s t i r r i ng.
3. Cool t o 40C wi th s t i r r i ng.
pH: 5. 2
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Wt%
10. 0
5. 0
5 . 0
5. 0
2. 9
2. 1
3. 0
67.0
9, s .
Section VI
Hair Care Products
250
Hair Care Products 251
Aerosol Finishing Spray
I ngredi ents: O h by Weight
A . SD Al cohol 40, 200 proof 51.43
D-Panthenol 50P (Panthenol & P ropylene Gl ycol ) 1 . oo
AMP-95 1. 47
Fragrance (Sunburst 94F/2197) 0.10
B. Luvimer 1OOP (Acryl ates Copolymer) 6. 00
C . Hydrofl uorocarbon 152a 40.00
% voc: 55%
Procedure:
1. Combine phase A .
2. S pri nkl e B i nt o A and mix wel l .
3 , F i 11 i nt o appropri ate contai ners wi th propel l ant.
Packaging:
Corp. )
White Coated Aluminum Can (P eerl ess Tube Corp. )
Valve, Concave Kosmos Actuator & Overcap (P reci si on Valve
F ormul ati on PF-0338 suggested by BASF
Shaping Spray
Hair Spray/Spray Gel
I nqred i en t s :
A. SD Al cohol 40, 190 proof
Dei oni zed water
D-Panthenol
Uvi nul M40
Fragrance (Peach F l oral 92F/3235)
AMP-95
% by Weight
84.20
7. 63
0. 50
0.10
1.47
0. 10
B. Luvimer lOOP (Acryl ates Copolymer) 6. 00
Procedure:
1. Combine i ngredi ents i n phase A i n order l i s ted.
2. Add phase B t o A under mi xi ng and mix u n t i l uni form.
Packagi ng:
White Coated Aluminum Can (P eerl ess Tube Corp. )
AP4 1" Snap-On Pump & Overcap (P reci si on Valve Canada)
F ormul ati on PF-0339 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co, : Angus P roduct Formulary
252 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Hair Spray
Regular Hold
Ingredients: % by Wt
Advantage V Resin 5.00
AMP-95 0.15
SD Alcohol 40 42.50-57.50
Disti1 led Water 17.35
Plasti ci zer q.s.
Fragrance, etc. q.s.
Propellant (s) 20.00-35.00
Aerosol Hair Spray
Super Hold
Ingredi ents: % by Wt
Advantage V Resin 8.00
AMP-95 0.24
SD Alcohol 40 41.00-56.00
Dist ilied Water 15.768
Plastici zer q.s.
Fragrance, etc. q.s.
Propellant (s) 20.00-35.00
Aerosol Hair Spray
Maximum Hold
Ingredients: % by Wt
Advantage V Resin 11.00
AMP-95 0.34
SD Alc oh ol 40 39.50-54.50
Di st i li ed Water 14.16
Plastici zer q.s.
Fragrance, etc. q.s.
Propellant (s) 20.00-35.00
Formulations PF-0264 suggested by ISP
Aerosol Hair Spray
Regular Hold
Ingredients: % by Wt
Advantage CP Resin 5.00
AMP-95 0.08
Phenyl Trimethicone 0.15
Ethanol (20OP) 59.77
Propel!ant A-46 35.00
Fragrance q.s.
Aerosol Hair Spray
Super Hold
Ingredients: % by Wt
Advantage CP Resin 8.00
AMP-95 0.12
Phenyl Trimeth ic one 0.15
Ethanol (20OP) 56.73
Propellant A-46 35.00
Fragrance q.s.
Formulation PF-0266 suggested by ISP
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus Product Formulary
.Hair Care Products 253
Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water
I nqredi ents:
L uvi f l ex VBM 35(PVP/Acrylates Copolymer)
AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P ropanol)
Ethanol , SDA 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
Dymel A (Dimethyl E ther)
96 by Wei aht
6.00
0.26
43.74
20.00
30.00
Procedure:
Combine r es i n wi th AMP and ethanol .
Af ter a cl ear s ol uti on i s obtai ned, sl owl y add the water.
Package and charge wi th propel l ant.
Mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0198 suggested by BASF
Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water
I ngredi ents: % by Weight
Ul trahol d 8 (Acryl ate/Acryl ami de Copolymer) 3.00
AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P ropanol) 0. 25
Ethanol, SDA 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
Dymel A (Dimethyl E ther)
46.75
20.00
30.00
Procedure:
Combine res i n wi th AMP and ethanol .
Af ter a cl ear s ol uti on i s obtai ned, sl owl y add the water.
Package and charge wi th propel l ant.
Mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0199 suggested by BASF
Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water
I naredi ents: % by Weight
L uvi set CAP ( Vi nyl Acetate/Crotoni c Aci d/ Vi nyl
P ropi onate Copolymer) 3. 00
AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P ropanol) 0. 28
Ethanol , SDA 40 46.72
Di s t i l l e d Water 20.00
Dymel A (Dimethyl E ther) 30.00
Procedure:
Combine res i n wi th AMP and ethanol .
Af ter a cl ear s ol uti on i s obtai ned, sl owl y add the water.
Package and charge wi th propel l ant.
Mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0200 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Hairspray "100% VOC"-CMB Horizon System
I ngredi ents: % bv Weiaht
Ethanol 91.67
AMP Regular 0.11
Advantage CP 8. 00
Dimethi cone Copol yo1 0.10
Perfume, K r i s ti ne K/19718 0.12
P rocedure:
s t i r r i n g u n t i l uni form. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents i n order
l i s ted, mi xi ng thoroughl y a f t e r each addi ti on. Charge i nt o
aerosol contai ners and pressuri ze usi ng compressed gas (e. g.
ni trogen) t o 8 t o 9 bar pressure.
Note: Contai ners shoul d be checked f o r corrosi on resi stance t o
F ormul ati on PF-0245E suggested by ISP
Di ssol ve AMP neutral i z er i n ethanol . Add Advantage CP wi th
the product.
Aerosol Hairspray, Hydrocarbon Propellant
I nqredi ents: % by Weioht
Ethanol 60.82
AMP Regular 0.06
Advantage CP 4.00
Perfume, K r i s ti ne K/19718 0. 12
Propane/butane 35.00
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g u n t i l uni form. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents i n order
l i s ted, mi xi ng thoroughl y af ter each addi ti on. Charge i nt o
aerosol contai ners and pressuri ze wi th propel l ant.
F ormul ati on PF-0246E suggested by I S P
Di ssol ve AMP neutral i z er i n ethanol . Add Advantage CP wi th
Aerosol Hairspray
I ngredi ents:
Ethanol
% bv Weight
71 - 74
Water, Dei oni zed 20.00
Advantage CP 8.00
Dimethicone pol y01 0.10
Sufadone LP-300 0.10
Perfume q . s .
Procedure:
meets the 80% VOC requi rement. Di ssol ve AMP Regular i n ethanol
and water. Add Advantage wi th s t i r r i ng, u n t i l uni form. Add
remai ni ng i ngredi ents wi th s t i r r i n g u n t i l uni form. Charge i nt o
aluminum contai ners and pressuri ze wi th ni trogen.
F ormul ati on PF-0239E suggested by I S P
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Corp. : Angus P roduct Formulary
AMP Regular 0.16
Thi s hai rspray uses the compressed gas-CM8 Hori zon system and
Hair Care Products 255
Aerosol Spray
Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol abs.
n -Pent ane
DME
Perfume o i l
% by Weight
2. 00
0.25
37.75
20.00
40. 00
q . s .
Procedure:
vessel , add Ul trahol d S trong. S t i r u n t i l di ssol ved. F i l l i nt o
contai ners.
P l ace ethanol , AMP Regular and perfume o i l i n the s t i r r e r
Cloud poi nt: S t i l l cl ear a t -35C
P ressure: 2. 6 bar
Densi ty: 0.6960
F ormul ati on PF-0328 suggested by BASF
Aerosol Spray
Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I nsredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Luvi skol VA 37 E
Ethanol abs.
DME
Perfume o i l
% by Weight
3.00
0.35
6 . 0 0
5 0 . 6 5
40.00
q . s
P rocedure:
i n the s t i r r e r vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r u n t i l
di ssol ved. F i l l i n t o contai ners.
P lace ethanol , Luvi skol VA 37 E, AMP Regular and perfume o i
Cloud poi nt: S t i l l cl ear a t -35C
P ressure: 2. 8 bar
Densi ty : 0.7520
F ormul ati on PF-0329 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Con: Angus P roduct Formulary
256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Spray
Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I nqredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol abs.
Pentane
DME
Perfume o i l
% by WeiRht
4. 00
0. 50
40 I 50
15. 00
40. 00
q. s
Procedure:
vessel , Add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r unt i l di ssol ved, then f i l l
i nto contai ners.
P l ace ethanol , AMP Regular and perfume o i l i n the mi xi ng
Cloud poi nt: S t i l l cl ear at -35C
P ressure: 2. 6 bar
Densi ty: 0. 7088
F ormul ati on PF-0330 suggested by BASF
Aerosol Spray
Very strong hol d f or a l l c l i mati c zones, easy t o comb and
wash out.
I ngr ed i en t s :
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol abs.
Propane/butane
Perfume o i l
% by Weiaht
6. 00
0. 75
43.25
5 0 , O O
q. s .
P rocedure:
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r unt i l di ssol ved, then fill
i nto contai ners I
P lace ethanol , AMP Regular and perfume o i l i n the mi xi ng
Cloud poi nt: S t i l l cl ear at -35C
P ressure: 4. 0 bar
Densi ty: 0. 6640
F ormul ati on PF-0331 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 257
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray
I ngredi ents
Lovocryl 47
Dei oni zed Water
Dimethyl Ether
Fragrance
P reservati ve
Cloud P oi nt: -15C
Procedure:
Di ssol ve AMP-95 i n water. Wh
sl owl y s i f t i n Lovocryl 47. Mix
then charge wi th propel l ant.
AMP-95
Valve:
Seaqui st Valve:
Stem:
Gasket:
S pr i ng :
Body :
cup :
Vapor Tap:
Di p Tube:
Actuator:
NS
% bv Weight
8.00
1. 38
57.62
33.00
q. s.
q. s .
l e mai ntai ni ng good agi tati on,
unt i l di ssol ved. F i l t e r and f i l l ,
34
0. 013"
Butyl 0.042" THK. Code: 501
0.020" ss
Capi 11 ary
Regular, Epoxy Top, Laminate Bottom,
0. 01 3"
0.040"
Excel1 200 Mi s ty 0.018 Mi s ty
Dimpled, Code: 1610
Formula PF-0268 suggested by Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Co.
Shine and Hold Spray
I nqredi ents:
Amphomer
AMP Regular
Phenyl Tri methi cone
T ri ethyl C i tr ate
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40
% by Weight
5.00
0.82
5. 00
0. 10
89.08
Procedure:
good agi tati on, s i f t i n Amphomer. When s ol uti on i s complete,
add Phenyl Tri methi cone and T ri ethyl C i tr ate. Mi x u n t i l homogen-
eous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
Di ssol ve AMP i n anhydrous ethanol , SDA-40. Whi l e mai ntai ni ng
F ormul ati on PF-0269 suggested by Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
258 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray
I naredients/CTFA Desi anati ons: % bv Weight
Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl
Methacryl ate Copolymer 5. 00
AMP-95/Aminomethyl Propanol 0.96
Burst RSD-lO/Dimethicone S i l yl at e 0. 50
Dei oni zed Water 60.54
DME/Oimethyl Ether 33.00
P reservat i ve q . s .
Val ve :
Seaquist Valve:
Stem:
Stem Gasket:
Spri ng:
Body :
D i p Tube:
Vapor Tap:
Actuator:
NS-34
0. 0 13"
Butyl , 0.042'' THK. Code: 500
ss 0.020"
Capi 11 ary
Alum. C . C . AN.RG., Epoxy Top,
0.040"
0 . 0 1 3"
Excel1 200 - 0.016" Mi s ty
Epoxy Bottom, Buna
Can: Advanced Monobloc Corp.
P rocedure:
Disperse Burst i n water. Di ssol ve AMP i n s ol uti on. When
complete, s l owl y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71 t o the s ol uti on, whi l e
mai ntai ni ng good agi tati on. F i l t e r and fi l l concentrate. Charge
cans wi th propel l ant.
F ormul ati on PF-0258 suggested by Nati onal Starch & Chemical Co.
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I ngredi ents : % by Weight
Ethanol (190 P roof) 79.63
Water
Gantrez XL-80 (PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer)
AMP-95
Gantrez V-425 (Butyl E ster o f PVM/MA Copolymer)
Phenyl T r i methi cone
Fragrance
3.96
5.70
0.41
10.00
0.10
0. 20
P rocedure:
1. Add ethanol and water t o main tank. S tar t mi xi ng and add
Gantrez XL-80. Mi x u n t i l compl etel y blended.
2. Add AMP-95 and mix u n t i l blended.
3. Add Gantrez V-425 and then addi ti onal i ngred
compl etel y af t er each addi ti on.
F ormul ati on PF-0257 suggested by I S P
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formu
ents whi l e mi xi ng
ary
Hair Care Products 259
Alcohol-Free Styling Gel
I ns redi ents: % by Weight
P art A:
Dei oni zed water 93.03
Octyl acryl ami de (and) acryl ates (and) butyl ami no-
ethyl methacryl ate copolymer (Amphomer) 3.50
AMP-95 0.62
P art B:
P ropylene gl ycol 0. 50
Cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chl ori de (Monaquat P-TC) 0.40
Cocamidopropyl betai ne (Vari on CADG) 0.25
Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) 0.20
P ol ysorbate 20 0. 15
Quaternium-15 0.10
P art C:
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose (Natrosol-250 HHX) 1.25
Fragrance q . s .
P rocedure:
Combine A. When complete, add B. When homogenous s l owl y
s i f t i n C wi th good agi tati on.
F ormul ati on PF-0253 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical
Hair Setting Gel
S etti ng gel contai ns condi ti oni ng acti ve i ngredi ents f o r
normal t o dr y hai r .
I naredi ents :
P art A:
Ethanol, 96% denatured
PVP/VA copolymer (PVP/VA E-735)
Cetrimonium chl ori de (Dehyquart A)
P art B:
Water
Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940)
Col or
AMP-95
% bv Weiaht
15.00
4.00
0. 50
77.70
0.60
0.20
0. 30
P art C :
Tri deceth- 9 (and) PEG-5 octanoate (NEO-PCL Water S ol ubl e) 1.00
Tri deceth- 9 (and) PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor o i l 0.50
Fragrance 0.20
P rocedure:
Swell carbomer i n water usi ng an Ul tr atur r ax s t i r r e r . Blend
A and C separatel y. Add A t o C. Add AC t o B usi ng an Ul tr atur r ax
s t i r r e r . Adj ust pH t o 6. 2.
F ormul ati on PF-0254 suggested by Dragoco
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
260 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse
I nnredi ents: % by Weight
P art A:
Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacryl ate
(Amphomer) 2. 50
AMP-95 0.40
Amodimethicone (and) nonoxynol 10 (and) tal l owtri moni um
chl ori de 0. 40
Octoxynol-9 ( T r i ton 2-100) 0. 30
Cocamidopropyl betai ne (Vari on CADG) 0. 10
Quaternium-15 0.10
Dei oni zed Water 48.90
Fragrance 9 , s .
P art 8:
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e (Natrosol 250 HHR)
Dei oni zed Water
P art C:
I sobutane/propane
0.30
37.00
10.00
Procedure:
mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l concentrate. Charge wi th C
F ormul ati on PF-0181 suggested by Nati onal S tarch
P repare A and B. When s ol uti ons are complete, add A t o 8 ;
Setting Lotion
E xtra- strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy t o comb and
wash out.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
Ethanol , abs.
Water, d i s t i l l e d
Perfume o i l
AMP-95
% b y Weiaht
4.00
0. 60
20.00
75.40
q . s .
P rocedure:
P l ace ethanol , AMP-95, water and perfume o i l i n the mi xi ng
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong, s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved, then f i l l
i nto contai ners.
F ormul ati on PF-0336 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 261
Aqua-Vital Moisturizing Spray (Pump Type)
%w/w
Cel-quat L200 (P olyquaternium-4) 0. 20
Gel-Co (Gel ati n) 1. 00
Methylparaben 0.20
3. P ropylene Gl ycol 6 . 0 0
G1 ycer i n 1 . oo
Cati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti des 0. 50
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Acids and Acetamide MEA) 2.00
Dowici 1 200 (Quaterni um-1 5) 0.20
C i t r i c Aci d, dry 0. 40
Quat-Pro S (Steartri moni um Hydrolyzed Animal P rotei n) 0. 20
C . I sopropyl Al cohol 4. 00
A . Dei oni zed Water 84.20
Fragrance 0. 10
Procedure:
Warm Phase A t o bri ng a l l i ngredi ents i nt o s ol uti on. Add
Phase B t o Phase A. Pre-mix Phase C and add t o Phase A/ B at a
temperature below 40C.
P roperti es:
A pump-type spray which moi sturi zes and protects the hai r .
Quats al l ow f or easi er combing. High mol ecul ar wei ght protei ns
i mpart a smooth, protecti ve outer l ayer whi l e the Amino Aci ds
work from wi thi n. For best res ul ts , use a pump which del i vers
a f i ne mi s t.
Formula #HE-1607
Every Day Wave Gel Activator
Dei oni zed Water
Carbopol 940 - 2% Aqueous S ol ' n
G1 yceri n
Proto-Lan 30 (P ropylene Gl ycol and PPG-12-PEG-65
DOW Corni ng 193 S urfactant (Dimethicone Copol yol )
Panthenol
P ropylene Gl ycol
DMDM Hydantoin
S ol ul an 98 (P ol ysorbate 80 and Cetyl Acetate and
Tri ethanol ami ne (TEA)
Lanol i n O i l and Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
Acetyl ated Lanol i n Al cohol )
o/aw/w
36 I 55
25.00
20.00
3. 00
2.50
0. 10
10. 00
0. 30
2.00
0. 55
P rocedure:
c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d aerati on.
P roperti es :
The s i l i c one serves t o l ubri cate, add gl oss and t o "de-tack" the
humectants. Good al l - around formul a f o r dai l y use.
Formula #HE-1608
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
M i x a l l i ngredi ents together except the TEA. Add TEA and mix
Softens and moi sturi zes t o hel p return hai r t o a l oose c ur l .
262 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Birch Hair Tonic
%w/w
2.0
30.0
1 . o
1 . o
66.0
C eti ol HE
E thyl /i sopropyl a1 coho1
Extrapon b i rch spec.
Perfume o i l , water- sol ubl e
Water
Formula No. WA51-01
Hair Tonic, Oily
C eti ol HE
Dehyquart SP
I sopropyl al cohol
Eumulgin L
Water
Formula No. WA51-02
%w/w
3.0
0.4
20.0
0.7
75.9
Hair Tonic, Fat-Free
%w/W
0 . 4
20. 0
1 . o
70.6
Dehyquart A
I sopropyl al cohol
Eumulgin L
Water
Formul a No. WA51-03
Hair Tonic, Fat-Free
%w/w
0.4
20.0
0.7
70.9
Dehyquart SP
I sopropyl al cohol
Eumulgin L
Water
Formula No. WA51-04
Hair Tonic for Greasy Hair
Ethanol 96%
Luvi skol K30
1 , 2- propyl ene gl ycol
Lamacit ER
Nutr i l an I
Lamepon PA-TR
Perfume
Water
Formula No. WA51-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/W
30.0
0. 5
4 . 0
1 . o
0. 5
1 . o
0 . 5
62.5
Hair Care Products 263
Bleaching Cream
I Emulgade F
"/ow/w
30.0
C eti ol V or Eutanol G 5. 0
I 1 Water 57. 0
I11 Ammonia 25% 8. 0
Note: I f used at a r a t i o o f 1:1, the cream i s mixed wi th di l uted
hydrogen peroxi de and carbamide peroxi de tab1 ets di ssol ved i n
water. The hydrogen peroxi de concentrati on can be between 3 and
10%. The German cosmetics l egi s l ati on l i mi t s the use o f ammonia
t o a maximum permi ssabl e concentrati on o f 6% ( cal cul ated as NH3)
and requi res a decl arati on f or concentrati ons from 2% upwards.
The NH3 content o f t h i s formul ati on i s 2%.
Formula No. UD11-01
Bleaching Emulsion
I Emulaade F
&WJ w
2. 0
C eti ol V or Eutanol G 2. 5
Wool f a t , anhydrous 1. 5
I 1 Water 90. 0
I 11 Ammonia 25% 4. 0
Note: The emulsion i s s ti r r ed wi th concentrated hydrogen per-
oxi de or carbamide peroxi de tabl ets wi thout the addi ti on o f
water and so used.
t o a maximum permi ssabl e concentrati on o f 6% ( cal cul ated as
NH3) and requi res a decl arati on f or concentrati ons from 2%
upwards.
Formula No. UD21-01
The German cosmetics l egi s l ati on l i mi t s the use o f ammonia
The NH3 content o f t h i s formul ati on i s 1.0%.
Bleaching Oil, Gelatinizing
YOWY
Comperlan OD 35. 0
I 1 I sopropyl al cohol 10. 0
I Comperlan KD 39. 0
Comperlan 100 5. 0
Emulgade F spec. 5. 0
111 Ammonia 25% 6. 0
Note: When used, the l o t i o n i s mixed wi th hydrogen peroxi de (any
percentage) a t a r a t i o o f 2: 3. A transparent gel i s obtai ned.
The German cosmetics l egi s l ati on l i mi t s the use o f ammonia
t o a maximum permi ssabl e concentrati on o f 6% ( cal cul ated as
NH3) and requi res a decl arati on f or concentrati ons from 2%
upwards.
The NH3 content o f t h i s formul ati on i s 1.5%.
Formula No. UD31-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
264 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Blow Drying Lotion
Dehyquart SP
E thyl /i sopropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WD51-01
Blow Drying Lotion
Dehyquart SP
Nasuna B *)
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WD51-03
Blow Drying Lotion
Dehyquart LT
C eti ol HE
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WD51-05
Blow Drying Lotion
Gafquat 734
Dehyquart SP
Eumulgin RO 40
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WD51-08
Blow Drying Lotion, Clear
Dehyquart A
Nasuna B *)
Eumulgin L
I sopropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WD51-10
Blow Drying Solution, Aerosol-Packed
Nasuna B *)
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol
Dehyquart SP
Water
Note: F i l l i ng: 40 parts s ol uti on
Formula No. WD71-01
60 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
%w/w
0. 6
60.0
39.4
%w/w
0. 6
1.5
50. 0
47.9
%w/w
0. 4
1.5
50. 0
4%. 1
%w/w
2.0
0. 3
0. 2
47.5
50. 0
%w/w
0. 4
1 . o
0. 6
20.0
78.0
%w/w
2. 0
30.0
0. 3
67.7
Note: *) The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West Germany.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Vari ous PVP/VA types on the market can be ref erred t o .
Hair Care Products 265
Bodifying Sculpting Lotion
Thi s cl ear formul a combi nes good hol di ng power wi th condi ti on-
i ng, produci ng a bodyfyi ng s cul pti ng l o t i o n which provi des easy
s t yl a bi l i t y. Hai r acqui res more body and a s of ter, s i l k i e r f eel
from the unique combination o f bodying and s tyl i ng properti es
which Crodacel QM i mparts t o t h i s l oti on - an ef f ec t o f cova-
l entl y bonding a f a t t y quaternary group t o a cel l ul os e backbone.
Super Solan F l aked i s used t o pl as ti c i z e the res i n.
I nqredi ents:
A . SDA-40 Al cohol
Amphomer 28-4910
Super Solan Flaked
B. Crodacel QM
AMP-95
Dei oni zed water
% by Weiaht
40.00
1 . oo
0. 50
1 . oo
0. 16
57.34
Procedure:
Dust the copolymer o f P art A i nt o the al cohol , mi xi ng wel l
unt i l cl ear and then add Super Solan Flaked wi th mi xi ng. Combine
the i ngredi ents o f P art 8 wi th mi xi ng and add t o P art A, mi xi ng
unt i l cl ear.
F ormul ati on PF-0322 suggested by Croda I nc.
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I naredi ents:
Water
Ethanol
Acudyne 255 (41% s ol i ds )
Dow Corning 190 F l ui d
AMP-95
% by Weight
6. 80
80. 00
0 . 5 6
12. 50
0. 10
Procedure:
s t i r r i ng. Mix unt i l s ol uti on i s cl ear.
P roperti es:
Mix water, ethanol , AMP-95 and pl as ti c i z er . Add polymer wi th
Cloud P oi nt: (-22F
Vi s cos i ty: 5 cps, spi ndl e #1 @ 60 rpm
F ormul ati on PF-0317 suggested by Rohm and Haas
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.': Angus P roduct Formulary
266 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Brushing Gel
Wt%
A . Amihope LL 0. 5
POE (20) S orbi tan Monolaurate 0. 5
POE ( 20) S orbi tan Monostearate 0. 5
POE ( 25) Gl yceryl Monopyroglutamate Monoi sostearate 1 . o
P ropylene Gl ycol 2. 0
Grape Seed O i l 0. 5
B. Carboxyvinylpolymer (Carbopol 940) (1. 0% wt % s ol uti on) 50. 0
Dei oni zed Water balance
P reservati ves 0. 2
C . 10% w t . NaOH S ol uti on 2. 0
Procedure:
1. Weigh each i ngredi ents (A) i n gl ass vessel and mi x.
2. Add ( 8 ) t o the former mi xture and heat t o 70-8OC wi th
3. Af ter di s s ol uti on, cool down t o room temperature. Then add
s t i r r i ng.
(C) t o the mixed s ol uti on and i t turns t o gel s tate.
Note:
by combing and l eads t o smooth combing.
Thi s brushi ng gel reduces an el ec tr os tati c charge produced
Hair Rinse
A . Cetanol
Ami t e r LGOD-2
Gl yceryl Monostearate, S el f E mul si fyi ng (HLB 11)
Amihope LL
8 . 1 , 3- Butyl ene Gl ycol
S tearyl t r i methyl Ammon i um Ch 1 or i de
Methylparaben
Water
Procedure:
1. Di ssol ve (A) a t 8OC.
2. Di ssol ve ( B) at 8OC.
3. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) .
4 . Mix them wi th a homomixer, and cool t o 30C.
Note:
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc , : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Thi s creamy hai r ri ns e has l i g h t f i ni s hi ng touch.
ytit
3. 0
5. 0
2. 0
3.0
5. 0
3.0
0. 2
the res t
Hair Care Products 267
Brushing Lotion
Wtgb
Amihope LL 0. 5
POE (20) S orbi tan Monolaurate 1. 5
POE (25) Gl yceryl Monopyroglutamate Monoi sostearate 1 . o
P ropylene G1 ycol 2. 0
A .
8.
C .
S tearyl Al cohol
Carboxyvi nyl pol ymer (Carbopol 941 )
Dei oni zed Water
P reservati ves
Prodew 100
Ethanol
( 0. 5 wt % s ol uti on; neutral i z ed by NaOH)
0. 5
15. 0
bal ance
0 . 2
0. 2
5. 0
P rocedure:
1. Weigh each i ngredi ent (A) i n gl ass vessel and mi x.
2. Add ( B ) t o the former mi xture and heat t o 70-80C wi th
3 . Af ter di s s ol uti on, cool down t o 50C. Then add (C) t o the mixed
4. Wi th s ti r r i ng, cool down t o room temperature.
Note:
by combing and l eads a smooth combing.
s t i r r i ng.
s ol uti on.
Thi s brushi ng l oti on reduces an el ec tr os tati c charge produced
Hair Brushing Lotion
Amihope LL
POE ( 20) S orbi tan Monolaurate (P ol ysorbate 20)
Water
Ethanol
P rocedure:
Mix a l l components at room temperature.
Wtgb
1 . o
1 . o
50.0
48. 0
Note:
smoothness f o r the hai r .
cati oni c s urf actant.
Usage :
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Thi s hai r brushi ng l oti on has good anti s tati c ef f ec t and
Amihope LL acts as hai r condi ti oni ng agent i nstead o f the
Spray the hai r before brushi ng.
268 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cationic Thermal Styling Mousse
(Nonaerosol-For Foamers)
A . Supro-Tein V (Tea-Cocoyl Hydrol yzed Col l agen (and
Kera-Tein 1000 AS (E thyl E ster o f Hydrolyzed Kera
Ameroxol OE-20 (Oleth-20)
Dimethicone Copolyol
P olyox WSR N-3000 (2% Aq. S ol n. ) (PEG-14M)
Cocoamphocarboxypropi onate
Dei oni zed Water
Sorbi to1 ) 3. 00
i n ) 3.00
0.25
1.50
1 . oo
82.00
Copolymer) 1 . oo
Fragrance, P reservati ves 9, s .
t o the water and mix u n t i l di ssol ved.
0. 25
B. Amersette (Methacryl ol E thyl Betai ne/Methacryl ates
SD Al cohol 40, Anhydrous 8. 00
Procedure:
1. Heat the water i n Phase A t o 65C. Add the r es t o f Phase A
2. Di ssol ve the Amersette i n the Al cohol at room temperature.
3. S l owl y add Phase B t o Phase A. Mix u n t i l homogeneous.
P roperti es:
Thi s nonaerosol s tyl i ng mousse u t i l i z e s Amersette and Kera-
Tei n 1000 AS as s tyl i ng agents f o r l ong- l as ti ng hol d properti es .
The Kera-Tein 1000 AS, a substanti ve cati oni c protei n, al s o adds
a natural shi ne and protecti ve properti es .
Supro-Tein V enhances the qual i ty o f the mousse foam whi l e
condi ti oni ng the hai r . Polyox WSR N-3000 enhances combing and
shi ne characteri s ti cs .
Formula #HF-1406
Firm Hold Cationic Hair Spray
%w/w
Gantrez ES-225 (E thyl E ster o f PVM/MA Copolymer) 10.00
Dow Corni ng 190 P ol yether (Dimethicone Copol yol ) 0. 10
Fragrance 0. 10
Ami nomethyl Propanol -95 0. 18
Water 13.62
P ro-Tein ES-20 (E thyl E ster o f Hydrol yzed Col l agen) 1 .oo
Procedure:
1. Add al cohol t o mi xi ng vessel .
2. Add the Gantrez t o the Al cohol . Mi x u n t i l di ssol ved.
3. Add the res t o f the i ngredi ents i n the order l i s ted, one a t a
P roperti es:
ES-20 and DC-190 pl as ti c i z e the res i n and improve shi ne and
combing a b i l i t y . P ro-Tein ES-20 i s a cati oni c, substanti ve
protei n which gi ves the hai r a natural l ook and f eel .
Formula #HF-1400
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Al cohol SD-40A 75.00
ti me and mi xi ng i n between addi ti ons .
An excel l ent hai r spray f o r hard- to- hol d hai r . The P ro-Tein
Hair Care Products 269
Cold Wave Cream
I Lanette 0 16.00
Eumulgin 05 2. 50
Eumulgin 010 2. 50
C eti ol V or Eutanol G 5. 00
I 1 Water 42.55
I 1 1 Ammonia 25% 18. 75
I V Thi ogl ycol i c aci d 80% 12.50
Note: The German cosmetics l egi s l ati on l i mi t s the thi ogl yc ol i c
aci d content i n products f o r personal use t o 8% and i n products
f o r commercial use t o 11%. The pH must not exceed 9. 5.
The pH o f t h i s formul a i s 7. 5- 9. 5.
Because of the thi ogl yc ol i c aci d content i n the formulas
UA 11-01, -02 and UA 21-01 o f approx. 10%, these c ol d wave
preparati ons are onl y permi ssi bl e f o r commercial use.
P reparati on ( val i d f o r a l l c ol d wave emul si ons): The f a t t y
substances are mel ted a t 70-8OC. The water i s al s o heated t o
70-80C and s t i r r e d i n t o the f a t mel t. The mi xture i s cool ed
t o approx. 30C whi l s t s t i r r i n g and the emulsion forms. Ammonia
i s c ar ef ul l y s t i r r e d i n and then sl owl y neutral i zed wi th thi o-
gl yc ol i c aci d whi l e bei ng cool ed.
Due t o the r i s k o f di s col orati on, contact wi th metal shoul d be
avoided.
Formula No. UA11-01
Turpi nal SL 0. 20
Hair Straightening Cream
"/.f _w
Eumulgin 05 2. 0
Eumulgin 010 2. 0
Comperlan KD 2. 0
C eti ol V 2. 0
1 1 Turpi nal SL 0. 2
Borax 0. 5
Water 47. 9
I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 18. 9
I V T hi ogl ycol i c Aci d (95%) 10. 5
P reparati on: A l l the i ngredi ents o f I are weighed and mel ted
a t approx. 80C. The water, i n which Turpi nal SL and Borax have
been di ssol ved, i s al s o heated t o 80-9OC and s t i r r e d i nt o the
f a t mel t which i s kept a t 80-9OC i n a water bath. The mi xture
on i s
i n a l l y
ng cool ed
I Lanette 0 14. 0
i s then cool ed t o approx. 30C a t which stage the emuls
formed. Ammonia i s c ar ef ul l y added whi l e s t i r r i n g and
the thi ogl yc ol i c aci d i s added whi l e the mi xture i s be
and s ti r r ed.
The hai r s trai ghteni ng cream has a pH o f between 9 and
Formula No. UAll-02
9. 3.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
270 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cold Wave Cream
%w/w
I Lanette 0 16.00
Eumulgin 05 2.50
Eumulgin 010 2. 50
I I Water 52.77
I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 15.50
I V T hi ogl ycol i c aci d (95%) 10.53
Note: Col d wave cream f o r professi onal use.
P reparati on: Mel t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i nt o
I. Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l the mi xture i s cool ed t o under 30C
( emul s i f i cati on) . Add thi ogl yc ol i c aci d, neutral i z e wi th
ammonia/monoethanolamine whi l e s t i r r i n g and cool i ng, s etti ng
pH t o 9. 2.
Formula No. UA11-03
Turpi nal SL 0.20
Cold Wave Emulsion
yvJr J
Turpi nal SL 0. 20
I Emulgade 1000 N I 5.00
I 1 Water 68.77
I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 15.50
I V T hi ogl ycol i c aci d (95%) 10.53
P reparati on: Mel t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s ti r i n t o
I. Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l the mi xture i s cool ed t o under 30C
( emul s i f i cati on) . Add thi ogl yc ol i c aci d, neutral i z e wi th ammon-
ia/monoethanolamine whi l e s t i r r i n g and cool i ng, s etti ng pH t o
9. 2.
Note: Col d wave emulsion f o r professi onal use.
Formula No. UA21-01
Cold Wave Emulsion
I
I 1
1 1 1
I V
Emulgade 1000 N I
Water
Turpi nal SL
Monoethanol ami ne
Di i sopropanol ami ne
T hi ogl ycol i c aci d (95%)
%w/w
5. 00
76.75
0.20
( t o PH 7) 4.90
( t o pH 9.2) 5. 25
7.90
P reparati on: Mel t I at-70-80C. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i nt o I.
Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l the mi xture i s cool ed t o under 30C
( emul s i f i cati on) . Add thi ogl yc ol i c aci d, neutral i z e wi th ammonia/
monoethanolamine whi l e s t i r r i n g and cool i ng, s etti ng pH t o 9. 2.
Note: Col d wave emulsion f o r general use.
Formula No. UA21-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Hair Care Products 271
Cold Wave Emulsion, Foaming
sbw/w
I Emulgade 1000 NI 2. 0
Texapon MLS 2. 0
Turpi nal S L 0. 2
I V T hi ogl ycol i c aci d (95%) 7. 9
I I Water 76.6
I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 11. 3
Note: T hi ogl ycol i c aci d content approx. 7.5%. Cold wave emulsion
f o r general use.
P reparati on: Mel t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-80C and s t i r i nt o I .
Keep s t i r r i ng unt i l the mi xture i s cool ed t o under 30C ( emul s i f i -
cati on) . Add thi ogl ycol i c aci d, neutral i z e wi th ammonia/monoetha-
nolamine whi l e s t i r r i n g and cool i ng, s etti ng pH t o 9. 2.
Formula No. UA21-04
Cold Wave Solution, Foaming, Clear
%w/w
I Texapon MLS 3. 0
Turpi nal SL 0. 2
I 1 1 T hi ogl ycol i c aci d 95% 7. 9
Dehydol 1 OODEO 0. 5
I 1 Water 79. 2
I V Monoethanolami ne 9. 2
Note: T hi ogl ycol i c aci d content approx. 7.5%. Cold wave f o r
P reparati on: I 1 i s added t o I, then thi ogl ycol i c aci d i s added.
Whi l e s t i r r i n g and cool i ng, neutral i z e wi th monoethanolamine,
s etti ng pH t o 9. 2.
Formula No. UA61-01
general use.
Cold Wave Solution, Clear, Foaming
s/ow/w
I 1 Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR (29% aqueous s ol uti on) 10. 0
Turpi nal SL 0. 2
I V T hi ogl ycol i c aci d 95% 7.9
I Texapon MLS 3. 0
Dehydol 100 DE0 0. 5
I 1 1 Water 69.2
V Monoethanolami ne 9. 2
Note: T hi ogl ycol i c aci d content 7.5%. Cold wave s ol uti on f o r
P reparati on: I i s added t o I 1 1 then 1 1 i s s t i r r e d i n. Add thi o-
gl yc ol i c aci d and whi l e s t i r r i ng and cool i ng neutral i z e wi th
monoethanolamine, s etti ng pH to 9. 2.
Formula No. UA61-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formul ae
general use.
272 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming
I Emulgade F 5.0
Water 40. 0
I 1 Sodium bromate 10. 0
Water 40.0
I11 Texapon N40 5.0
Note: When usi ng the formul a, di l ut e 1 : l wi th water.
P reparati on: Mel t Emulgade F. S t i r i n the water heated t o 8OC.
Af ter cool i ng, add phase I 1 as a s ol uti on, then s t i r i n Texapon
N40.
Formula No. UB21-01
Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming, In Emulsion Form
I Emulgade F spec. 1 . o
I I Water 82. 6
C i t r i c aci d 1. 2
Turpi nal SL 0. 2
I11 Texapon N25/N40 5.0
I V Hydrogen peroxi de 30% 10.0
Set pH t o approx. 4. 5 wi th c i t r i c aci d or Turpi nal SL.
Note: When usi ng the formula, di l ut e 1 : l wi th water.
P reparati on: Mel t Emulgade F. S t i r i n the hot water i n which
the c i t r i c aci d was di ssol ved. Af ter cool i ng, add f i r s t Texapon
N25 and then H202.
German cosmeti cs l egi s l ati on l i mi t s the H202 content t o 12%
and requi res the decl arati on "Contains 3% H202".
Formula No. UD21-03
Cold Wave Fixative in Emulsion Form
%w/w
I Emulgade F spec. 5. 0
Eumulgin B1 0. 5
I 1 Dehyquart A 5.0
Water 81.3
Turpi nal SL 0. 2
I11 Hydrogen peroxi de (30%) 8. 0
P reparati on: Mel t phase I, s t i r phase I 1 (approx. 8OC) i nt o
phase I. Al l ow t o cool, s t i r r i n g conti nuousl y, then add phase
111.
Formula No. UB21-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Hair Care Products 273
Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming
Texapon N40
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Hydrogen peroxi de 30%
Sodium pyrophosphate, aci di c
Note: Use i n undi l uted form.
Decl arati on: "Contains 1 . 5% H202"
%w/w
15. 0
0 . 5
79. 0
5. 0
0. 5
Cold Wave Fixative with Bromate
%w/w
Olamin K 10. 0
Sodi urn bromate 5. 0
Potassium bromate 2. 0
Lamesoft 156 2. 0
Water 7 0 . 7
Carbopol 940 1 . o
Tri ethanol ami ne 1. 3
P reparati on: S t r together Olamin K wi th sodium bromate, potassi -
um and Lamesoft 156 u n t i l the sodium bromate and potassium
bromate f u l l y d ssol ved. Then di sperse Carbopol 940 ( s pri nkl e i n
through a si eve , s t i r r i n g wel l and neutral i z e wi th tri ethanol -
amine (pH 7 ) .
Formula No. U61-03
Cold Wave Fixative, Foam, Aerosol-Packed
Texapon A
Water
P otassi um bromate
Note: Desi red pH: 4. 0- 4. 5
F i l l i n g : 92 parts product
Speci a1 spray nozzl e necessary.
8 parts propel l ant 12:114 (40:60)
Formula No. UB71-01
Base for Hair Dye Creams
I Lanette N or S X, Emulgade F or F spec.
C eti ol V or Eutanol G, par af f i n oi l o r vegetabl e o i l
Beeswax or Cuti na CP , wool f a t or wool f a t al cohol s,
r e f i ned
I 1 Water
Formula No. UC 11-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
o/,w/w
15. 0
81 . O
4. 0
3/ow/w
15. 0
10.0
5. 0
70.0
274 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioner
White, hi gh vi s cos i ty
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
Water
1.80%
91. 20
-. . -
Cetyl Al cohol 2. 00
P reservati ves, fragrances 4 , s .
Bel s i l ADM 6057 E/Amodimethicone (and) Tal l owtri moni um
Chl ori de (and) Nonoxynol-10 5. 00
Mix Tyl ose H 4000 P i nt o the water and whi l s t s t i r r i n g bri ng
t o a temperature o f 70C. Mel t the c etyl al cohol and s t i r i nt o
the cl ear Tyl ose sl i me. Cool and add B el s i l ADM 6057 E .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 231 AH
Conditioner
Creamy, easy t o comb, reduces dryi ng ti me.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Bel s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S tearate se
Cetyl Al cohol
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances
5.00%
3.00
I . oo
91 . oo
9 , s .
Heat Lamecreme KSM and the cetyl al cohol t o 70C, work i n the
water s t i r r i n g wel l , Leave t o cool somewhat, mix i n Bel s i l
CM 040.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 311 AH
Conditioner
S l i ghtl y cl oudy, hi gh vi s cos i ty.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Water
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
B: Bel s i l DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate 2. 00
Bel si 1 ADM 6042 E/Amodimethicone (and) E mul s i f i er 2 . 5 0
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q . s .
Mix A wel l , mix i n B.
F ormul ati on 550 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Hair Care Products 275
Condi t i oner
Cr eamy sof t . Pr oduces a good shi ne and makes hai r easy t o comb
Mat er i al / CTFA- I ndex:
Wat er 90 I 30%
Et hyl engl ykol / Gl ycol 3. 20
Lanet t e N/ Cet ear yl Al cohol ( and) Sodi umCet ear yl Sul f at e 3. 50
Bel si l ADM 6056 / Di met hi cone ( and) Amodi met hi cone ( and)
Nonoxynol - 4 ( and) Nonoxynol - 14 2. 50
Bel si 1 DM 1 OOOOO/ Di met hi cone 0 . 5 0
Pr eser vat i ves, Fr agr ances q . s
Heat t he gl ycol t o 70C, di ssol ve Lanet t e N i n i t . St i r i n
For mul at i on 577 AH
70C hot wat er , mi x i n Bel si l ADM 6056 E and Bel si l DM 100 000.
Hai r Gel
Tr ansl ucent gel . Good hol d, wet l ook.
Mat er i al / CTFA- I ndex:
Wat er
Car bopol 934/ Car bomer 934
Tr i et hanol ami ne
G1 ycer i ne
Pr opyl ene G1 ycol
Bel si l DMC 6035/ Met hi cone Copol yol Acet at e
Pr eser vat i ves, f r agr ances
59. 50%
0. 50
1. 20
34. 20
2. 00
2. 30
9 , s .
Mi x t he Car bomer 934 wel l i nt o t he wat er . Mi x i n t he ot her s
Temper at ur e st abi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
For mul at i on 353 AH
homogeneousl y.
Hai r Fi xat i ve
For dr y hai r wi t h sl i ght hol d.
Mat er i a 1 / CTFA- I ndex:
Luvi skol VA 64/ PVP/ VA Copol ymer
Et hanol / Al cohol
Wat er
Genami n CTAC/ Cet r i moni umchl or i d
Pr opyl ene G1 ycol
Wacker - Bel si l DMC 6031/ Di met hi cone Copol yol
1. 50%
30. 00
65. 00
0. 10
0 I 30
1 . oo
Pr eser vat i ve, Fr agr ances, Pi gment s q . s
Di ssol ve Luvi skol VA 64 i n Al cohol t hen add t he r emai ni ng
For mul at i on 819 AH
i ngr edi ent s.
SOURCE: Wacker Si l i cone: Suggest ed For mul at i ons
276
A
- B
- C
... D
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioner
Deionized Water
PVP (PVP K-30)
Cetyl pyri di ni um Chl ori de
Pecosi 1 SWPQ-40 (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n/
Methylparaben
P ropylene G1 ycol
D i sodi um EDTA
Cetyl Al cohol
S tearyl Al cohol
Lanol i n
Mi neral O i 1 (Kaydol )
P ropylparaben
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Tocopheryl Acetate
DMDM Hydantoin
DCP Copolymer, Quaternary)
79.39%
0. 50
1 . oo
2. 00
0. 25
5. 00
0. 10
1. 25
1 .25
0.50
7. 75
0.15
0. 50
0. 01
0. 35
P rocedure:
Add PVP K-30 t o phase A water, propel l er mix u n t i l uni form.
Add Cetyl pyri di ni um Chl ori de and P ecosi l SWP-83 t o the r es t of
phase A and propel l er agi tate u n t i l uni form. Heat phase A t o
72C and then add phase t o phase 8. Heat phase C t o 75C.
When both phase AB and phase C are uni form and a t temperature,
add phase C_ t o phase wi th propel l er agi tati on. Cool &G
t o 50C whi l e conti nui ng propel l er agi tati on. Then add phase Q t o
K3c, conti nue agi tati on whi l e cool i ng ABCD t o 35C.
Formul a 14-60-A
Styling Gel
~A Deionized Water
Carbomer 940
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
- B Deionized Water
PVP (PVP K-30)
P olyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 755)
P ecosi l SWP-83 (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n/Di methi cone
Panthenol
Quaternium-15
DMDM Hydantoin
Copolyol Phosphate Copolymer)
50.00%
0. 50
0. 63
42.97
1 . oo
4.00
0. 50
0. 25
0. 10
0 I 05
P rocedure:
When Carbomer i s uni f orml y di spersed, add Tri ethanol ami ne under
sl ow sweep agi tati on. Wi th adequate agi tati on, add PVP t o phase
-. B water, When PVP i s compl etel y di ssol ved, Add remaining phase
- B i tems. When phase i s uni form, add phase t o phase A
under sl ow sweep agi tati on.
Formula 14-61 - A
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Disperse Carbomer i n phase A water w i t h adequate agi tati on.
Hair Care Products 277
Conditioning Protein Hair Gel
I naredi ents:
Dei oni zed Water
Carbopol 940
fri ethanol ami ne
Sol ubl e Kerati n
DMDM Hydantoin
Benzophenone 4
Fragrance
Col or
Procedure:
1, Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol
2. Reduce the agi tati on
Wei aht% F uncti on
98.0 Di 1 uent
0.5 Gel 1 i ng Agent
0. 5 Neutral i zer
0. 5 P rotei n
0.3 P reservati ve
0. 1 UV Stabi 1 i zer
q . s .
q . s .
940 res i n i nt o r api dl y dei oni zed water.
wi th sweep bl ade. Add tri ethanol ami ne,
kerati n, prezervati ve. benzophenone, and EDTA. Mix unti 1
homogeneous.
Formula COO28
Hair Setting Gel
I ngredi ents
Carbopol 940
Water (Dei oni zed)
PVP/VA Copolymer
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Water (Dei oni zed)
DMDM Hydantoin
Disodium EDTA
01 eth-20
Weight%
0. 6
80.0
1 .o
1. 4
16.1
0.3
0.1
0. 5
F uncti on
Gel 1 i ng Agent
Di 1 uent
Hai r S etti ng
Resin
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
Di 1 uent
P reservati ve
Chel ati ng Agent
Lubri cant/F rag-
rance S tabi l i z er
Procedure:
1. Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol 940 i n t o the vortex of r api dl y agi tati ng
water, When r es i n i s di spersed, reduce agi tati on and mix
u n t i l a homogeneous di spersi on i s obtai ned.
2. Separatel y combine copolymer, trei thanol ami ne, water, pres-
ervati ve, and di sodi um EDTA unti 1 di ssol ved .
3. Add t o Carbopol di spersi on wi th moderate sweeping agi tati on.
4 Heat Oleth-20 t o l i qui d. Add t o gel wi th slow mi xi ng.
Formula COO29
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
278 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Rinse Aerosol-Packed, Remains on Hair
I Lanette 18 2.0
C eti ol HE 1 . o
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 1. 0
Dehyquart SP 0. 5
Water 95.5
P reparati on: Mel t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i nt o I.
P reservi ng and perfuming are carri ed out under 40C. The pH i s
adj usted t o approx. 5 wi th phosphoric aci d.
F i l l i n g : 90 parts acti ve i ngredi ent
10 par ts propel l ant (F ri gen 12)
Ver ti cal val ve and foam nozzl e
Formula No . V871-06
Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed
%w/w
I Lanette 16 2. 0
C eti ol HE I . o
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 1 . o
Dehyquart SP 0. 5
Water 55.5
111 Ethanol 40.0
P reparati on: I i s mel ted a t 75-8OC. I 1 i s heated t o 70-8OC and
s t i r r ed i nt o 1. Af ter cool i ng t o under 35C ethanol and perfume
o i l are added and the pH i s adj usted t o approx. 5 wi th phos-
phori c aci d.
F i l l i ng: 90 parts acti ve i ngredi ent
Valve: Ver ti cal val ve and foam nozzl e
Formula No. VB71-07
10 parts propel l ant (F ri gen 12)
Hair Conditioner, Aerosol-Packed
"/ow/w
I Emulgade F speci al 4. 0
Eutanol G 6. 0
I 1 Dehyquart A 4. 0
Water (70-8OC) 30. 0
I11 Cosmedia Guar C261 0. 5
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB9 5. 0
Water (70-8OC) 50. 5
P reparati on: The mel ted phase I i s s t i r r ed i nt o phase I 1 unt i l
homogeneous. The Cosmedia Guar C261 i s made i nt o a paste wi th
gl yceri ne and s t i r r ed i nt o the hot water. The two cool ed phases
are s t i r r ed together unt i l homogeneous and the pH i s adj usted
t o 4-5 w i t h phosphoric aci d.
F i l l i n g : Aerosol cans wi th ver ti c al val ves and foam nozzles are
f i l l e d (minus 30% s af ety volume) wi th:
92% acti ve i ngredi ent s ol uti on and
8% propel l ant, e.g. propane/butane 3.5 bar
Formula No. V871-08
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Hair C are P ro d u c t s 2 7 9
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear
% w / w
Nasuna B *) 3.0
Dehyquart SP 0.6
Cetiol HE 1.0
Water 95.4
Formula No. WB51-07
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear
%w/w
Dehyquart SP 0.6
L uvisk ol VA 64 2.0
Citric acid O.3
Water 97.1
F ormula No. WB51-09
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear
% w / w
D e h y q u a r t A 0 . 5
Lu vi skol V A 6 4 2 . 0
W a t e r 9 7 . 5
F o r m u l a N o . W B 5 1 - 1 0
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clou dy
% w / w
N a su n a B * ) 3 . 0
D e h y q u a r t S P 0 . 6
A n t a r a 4 3 0 O . 1
W a t e r 9 6 . 3
F o r m u l a N o . W B 5 1 - 1 2
Setting Lotion, Clear, O ily
% w / w
Nasuna B *) 2.0
E u m u lg i n L 1.2
Ceti ol HE 1.0
Dehyquart SP 0.6
Isopropyl alc oh ol 20.0
Water 75.2
Formula WB51-14
Preparation: Nasuna B is dissolved in alc oh ol, w ater is added
and Carbopol 940 is then stirred in. When Carbopol 940 is u n i -
f ormly dispersed, the solution is neutralized w ith triethanol-
am in e and then perfumed.
Note: *} The Nasuna types are not for sale in West Germany.
Various PVP/ VA types on the mark et can be referred to.
SOURCE: Henk el KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
280 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream-Rinse
Recipe:
A Genamin KDM-F
Behent ri moni um Chl ori de
Cetyl al cohol
B Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
Dyestuff s ol uti on
D C i t r i c aci d -->pH 4. 0
P rocedure:
I Mel t A and B together a t 75C.
I 1 S t i r u n t i l 35C, then add the components o f C .
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the pH wi th D.
Formula B I I / 1023
Cream-Rinse
Reci pe :
A Genamin KDM-F
Behentrimoni um Chl ori de
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Cetyl al cohol
J ojoba o i l
B Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
Dyestuff s ol uti on
D C i t r i c aci d -->pH 4. 0
P rocedure:
I Mel t A a t 75C.
I 1 Heat B t o 75C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I.
I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f C t o I V .
V I F i nal l y adj us t the pH wi th D.
Formula B I I / 1060
3.75%
3.00%
92.75%
q . s .
0.30%
q. s .
a . s .
1. 50%
2.00%
2. 50%
1 . OO%
92.70%
q. s .
0.30%
q. s .
a . s .
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Hair Care Products 281
Cream-Rinse
Reci pe :
A Genamin KDM-F
Behent r i mon i um Chl or i de
Hostaphat K L 340 N
T ri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Cetyl al cohol
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
B Water
P reservati ve
C Perfume
Dyestuff s ol uti on
D C i t r i c aci d -->pH 4.0
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 75C.
I 1 Heat B t o 75C.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I .
I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f C t o I V .
VI F i nal l y adj us t the pH wi th D.
Formula B II/1055
Cream-Rinse
Reci De:
A Genamin KDM-F
Behentrimonium Chl roi de
Hostaphat KL 340 N
T ri l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Cetyl s tearyl al cohol
Mi neral oi 1 , hi gh v i scosi t y
Genamin KSL
PEG-5 S tearyl Ammonium Lactate
P reservat i ve
C Perfume
Dyestuff sol u t i on
D C i t r i c acid-->pH 4.0
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 75C.
I 1 Heat 6 t o 75C.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I .
IV S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f C t o I V .
VI F i nal l y adj ust the pH wi th D.
Formula B II/1054
B Water
2. 00%
1. 50%
2. 00%
2. 00%
92 . 20%
q . s .
0. 30%
q . s .
q . s .
2. 50%
1. 50%
3.00%
1 . OO%
89. 20%
2. 50%
q . s .
0.30%
9 , s .
Q . S .
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
282 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream-Rinse
Reci pe :
A Genamin DSAC
D i stearyl di moni um Chl ori de
Hostaceri n DGS
Pol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Cetyl al cohol
Mi neral oi 1, hi gh vi scosi t y
B Genamin CTAC
urn Chl ori de Cetrimon
Water
P reserva
C Perfume
Dyestuff
i ve
s ol uti on
D C i t r i c acid-->pH 4. 0
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat B t o 75C.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool
V A t 35C add the components o f C t o I V .
V I F i nal l y adj ust the pH wi th D.
Formula B .II/1052
Cream-Rinse
Recipe:
Genamin DSAC
D i stearyl di moni urn Chl ori de
Hostaceri n T-3
Ceteareth- 3
Cetyl al cohol
Mi neral oi 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty
Genamin KSL
PEG-5 S tearyl Ammonium Lactate
Water
P reservati ve
Perfume
Dyestuff s ol uti on
C i t r i c acid-->pH 4. 0
1. 50%
1.50%
2.00%
1 . OO%
2.00%
91.70%
q . s .
0. 30%
q . s .
q . s .
1.50%
1.50%
2. 50%
1 . OO%
2. 00%
91.20%
q . s .
0.30%
q . s .
9 , s .
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat B t o 75C.
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I . I V S t i r unt i l cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f C t o IV.
VI F i nal l y adj us t the pH wi th D.
Formula B II/1051
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Hair Care Products 283
Curl Activator
(Formula 82-1010)
O i l Phase:
A1 kamuls GMS
Cetyl S tearyl Al cohol
P etrol atum (Penreco)
Drakeol 10 (Penreco)
Sesame O i l
Water Phase:
Cel l o s i ze QP
P ropylene G1 ycol
Gl yceri ne
A1 kamul s GMS
Sol ul an 75 (Amerchol)
P reservati ve
Water
% BY Weiqht
3.0
2.0
2.0
6. 5
0.1
0. 5
5. 0
4. 0
3. 5
0. 5
Q. S.
72.9
Fragrance, Dye Q.S.
81 endi nq P rocedure:
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and whi l e warming t o 75C,
l i g h t l y bl end i n Cel l os i ze QP. Once Cel l os i ze QP i s compl etel y
dispersed, bl end i n remaining water phase i ngredi ents
i n order l i s ted. I n a separate contai ner, prepare o i l phase
and gentl y warm t o 75C. Wi th r api d but smooth agi tati on,
sl owl y add o i l phase t o water phase. Once system i s uni form,
cool wi th moderate agi tati on t o 40-45C and bl end i n dye and
fragrance.
Use Di recti ons :
acti vator . Work
L i ghtl y coat hai r wi th a small amount o f
i nt o hai r wi th f i ngers . Brush and s tyl e.
Wave Lotion (Buffered)
(Formula 92-1209)
A. Mi ranol DM
Arl acel 165
Cetyl Alcohol
S tearyl Al cohol
6 . Ammonium thi ogl ycol ate 100%
Ammonium hydroxi de 25%
Ammoni um di t h i ogl ycol i c aci d
Dei oni zed water
Ammonium Xylene S ul fonate
% bv Weiqht
8. 0
3. 5
1 . o
0.5
10.0
3.0
5.0
2.0
q.s t o 100
Procedure:
agi tati on u n t i l uni form.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Heat "A" t o 75C wi th agi tati on. Add "B" t o "A". Continue
284 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Economy Creme Rinse Conditioner
(Formula 86-0902M)
Mi racare SCS i s a f l aked condi ti oner concentrate s peci al l y
developed t o produce l uxuri ous creme ri ns e products. A unique
bl end o f emol l i ents and condi ti oni ng agents, Mi racare SCS
readi l y di sperses i n 75-80C water t o form el egant hai r care
products.
Mi racare SCS
Sodium Chl ori de
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve
Water
% BY Weiaht
5. 0
0. 2
0. 3
Q.S.
94. 5
Bl endi nq P rocedure: Di ssol ve Sodium Chl ori de and C i t r i c Aci d
i n water and then heat t o 75-8OC. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y
bl end Mi racare SCS i nt o heated water system. Mix u n t i l compl etel y
uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on cool system t o 40C and add comp-
a t i bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance Af ter 24 Hrs: Viscous, Opaque L oti on
pH (10% Aq. ) : 2. 5- 3. 5
% Non Vol ati l es : 5-7
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Cetearyl Al cohol , PEG-40 Castor O i l ,
S tearal konium Chl ori de, C i t r i c Aci d, Sodium Chl ori de, Fragrance,
P reservati ve, Dye(s).
"Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner
(Formula 88-0806)
Rhodaquat M242B/99
Cetyl Al cohol NF
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
Water
Oh BY Weiqht
0. 80
4.00
0.20
95.00
Q . S .
Bl endi nq P rocedure: Di ssol ve C i t r i c Aci d i n water and heat t o
70-75C. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Rhodaquat M242B/99
fol l owed by Cetyl Al cohol NF. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form. Wi th
smooth agi tati on, cool system t o 40-45C and bl end i n compati bl e
Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation P roperties
Appearance Af ter 24 Hours: Viscous, Opaque L oti on
Vi s cos i ty Af ter 24 Hours (25C): 5,000-8,000 cps (No. 4
pH : 2. 2- 3. 2
S pi ndl e @ 10 RPM)
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Cetyl Al cohol , Cetrimonium Bromide,
C i t r i c Aci d, Fragrance, P reservati ve, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Hair Care Products 285
Extra-Firm Holding Hairspray
E xtra strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty,
good brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
% by Wei ght
5.00
1 .16
60.00
33. a4
q . s .
Procedure:
s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o the
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 4. 2 bar
Densi ty: 0. 74 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0289 suggested by BASF
Firm Holding Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi en t s :
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Propane/Butane
Perfume
% by Weight
3.00
0. 69
46.31
50.00
q . s .
Procedure:
s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o the
Cloud poi nt: -3512
P ressure: 4. 0 bar
Densi ty: 0.67 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0290 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
286 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Extra Firm Holding Hairspray
E xtra strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty,
good brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Propane/Butane
Perfume
% by Wei aht
5.00
1 .16
50.00
43. a4
q . s .
P rocedure:
s ol uti on and mi x u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o the
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 4. 0 bar
Densi ty: 0.68 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0291 suggested by BASF
80% VOC Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I naredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
Water
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
AMP-95
% by Weight
5.00
1 .16
40.00
40.00
13.84
q . s .
Procedure:
s ol uti on and mi x unt i l cl ear. Add water and mix thoroughl y.
Combine ethanol , AMP-95 and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o the
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 43.2 bar
Densi ty: 0.81 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0292 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 287
Firm Holding Hairspray
S trong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I nqredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
Luvi skol VA 37 I
Water
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
AMP-95
% by Weiaht
1 . oo
0.23
8.00
5.50
22.77
62.50
q . s .
Procedure:
Combine ethanol , AMP-95 and perfume. Add Luvimer I00 P and
Luvi skol VA 37 I t o the s ol uti on and mi x u n t i l cl ear, add water
and mix thoroughl y.
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 4.7 bar
Densi ty: 0.75 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0293 suggested by BASF
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I nqredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Luvi skol VA 37 E
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
% by Weiaht
0.60
0.14
4.80
54.46
40.00
q . s .
Procedure:
kol VA 37 E t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P and Luvi s-
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3.2 bar
Densi ty: 0.77 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0294 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
288 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Firm Holding Luster Spritz
% by Weiaht I nqredi ents:
Stenanhold E xtra 15.00
AMP' Regular 0.38
Cycl omethi cone 0.30
Panthenol 0.45
SDA-4OA A1 coho1 83.84
Fragrance q . s .
Procedure:
Charge al cohol t o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th moderate agi tati on,
add AMP and mi x wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra and mi x u n t i l
thoroughl y di ssol ved. Add Cyclomethicone, mi xi ng thoroughl y.
Add Panthenol and mix wel l u n t i l di ssol ved. Add desi red
fragrance and mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0159 suggested by Stepan Co.
Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray
I nnredi ents: % by Weight
Stepanhold E xtra 13.75
AMP Regular 0. 35
Ammonyx KP 0.50
Methyl G1 uceth-20 0.25
SDA-40A A1 coho1 85.15
Fragrance q . s .
P rocedure:
AMP and mix wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra and mix u n t i l compl etel y
di ssol ved. Add Ammonyx KP and mi x thoroughl y. Add methyl
gl uceth- 20 and mix u n t i l compl etel y di ssol ved. Add desi red
fragrance and mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0160 suggested by Stepan Co.
Charge al cohol t o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th moderate agi tati on, add
Medium Hold Sheen Spray
I nqredi ents: % by Weiqht
SteDanhold E xtra 11.25
AMP' Regular 0. 29
Dimethicone Copolyol S urfactant 0. 25
PEG-75 L anol i n 0 . 1 5
SDA-40A A1 coho1 88.04
Fragrance q . s .
Procedure:
AMP and mix wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra and mix u n t i l compl etel y
di ssol ved . Add di methi cone copol yo1 and mix thorough1 y . Add
PEG-75 l anol i n and mix u n t i l di ssol ved. Add desi red fragrance
and mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0161 suggested by Stepan Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus Chemical Formulary
Charge al cohol t o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th moderate agi tati on, add
Hair Care Products 289
Foam Conditioner for Body and Volume, Aerosol-Packed
Nasuna B *)
Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180
Eumulgin SML 20
Ethanol
Water
Note: Adj ust pH t o 6 wi th tri ethanol ami ne
F i l l i ng: 92 parts product
Valve: Verti cal val ve and foam nozzl e
Formula No. WB71-08
8 parts propel l ant propane/butane 3. 5 bar
Setting Lotion, Aerosol-Packed
I Nasuna B *)
Ethanol 96%
Dehydol 100
I 1 Eumulgin SML 20
Eumulgin RO 40
Perfume
%w/w
2.0
8. 0
0. 3
15.0
74.7
%w/w
5. 0
10.0
0. 1
0.1
0.1
0. 1
I11 Water 84. 6
P reparati on: Phases I and I 1 are mixed u n t i l homogeneous and
then phase I11 i s added.
F i l l i ng: Aerosol cans wi th ver ti c al val ve and foam nozzl e are
f i l l e d (minus 30% s af ety volume) wi th:
92% acti ve i ngredi ent s ol uti on
8% propel l ant, e. g. propane/butane 3.5 bar
Formula No. WB71-10
Note: *) The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West Germany.
Various PVP/VA types on the market can be ref erred t o .
Foam Conditioner
Lamequat L
Dehyton K
lI 2-propy1 ene gl ycol
Lamaci t GML-12
Ethanol 96%
Perfume
Water
%B
6.0
3. 0
10. 0
2. 0
20. 0
0. 3
58.7
P reparati on: Mi x perfume w i t h Lamacit GML-12 and ethanol . The
remaining i ngredi ents are added i n the order gi ven.
Formula No. WB71-11
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
290 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Foaming Anti-Dandruff Hair Conditioner
I nqredi ents:
Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e
Sodi um hydroxi de
Polymer J R 30M
Bronopol
Zi nc pyr i di nethi one
Perfume and col or
Water
% by Weight
10. 00
1 . oo
0. 15
0. 50
0. 01
0. 35
q . s
q . s . t o 100
F ormul ati on PF-0112 from Cosmetics and T oi l etri es , Vol 100,
Apr i l 1985
Flexible Styler Hair Spray
I ngredi ents:
AMP Regular
Resyn 28-2930
Crodamol PTC
Lanezol AWS
Crotei n ADW
Al cohol SD-40
Oh by Weight
98.20
0. 10
1 . oo
0. 20
0. 20
0.30
P rocedure:
F i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0343 suggested by Croda, I nc .
Add i ngredi ents t o al cohol i n the order gi ven wi th mi xi ng
Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray-Low VOC
I nqredi ents:
A . SDA 40-2-200
Gantrez ES-225
B. AMP Regular
Permethyl 101A
Permethyl 102A
V i gi l an AWS
% by Weiqht
74.00
9.20
0.40
5. 15
10. 00
1 . oo
C . Fragrance 0.25
Procedure:
Mi x A together u n t i l cl ear and uni form. S l owl y add B i ngredi -
ents i n order, mix u n t i l cl ear s ol uti on devel ops. Next add f rag-
rance as desi red.
F ormul ati on PF-0342 suggested by P resperse I nc.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 291
Gel Curl Activator With Lanolin
I ngredi ent: Weiaht% F uncti on
P art A:
Carbopol 940 Resin (1 ) 0. 50 Gel l i ng Agent
Deionized Water 55. 90 Di 1 uent
Hydrogenated Starch Hydroxyl ate ( 2 ) 9.60 Gloss, Sheen
G1 yceri n 22. 40 Humectant
P art B:
PEG-60 L anol i n (3)
P ropylene Gl ycol
Dimethicone Copolyol ( 4 )
T r i ethanol ami ne ( 99%)
Methyl Parabens
Disodium EDTA ( 5 )
5.00 Condi ti oni ng
3.00 Humectant
2.30 L ubri cant
1- 00 Neutral i zer
0.20 P reservati ve
0.10 Chel ati ng Agent
(1) BF Goodrich Co.
( 2 ) Glyco Di vi s i on, Lonza
( 3 ) Croda, I nc.
(4) Dow Corni ng
( 5 ) Dow Chemical
P reparati on Procedure:
1) Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol 940 i nt o vortex o f water, starch, and
2) Separatel y combine P art 8, add t o P art A wi th moderate
Formula COO25
gl yceri n whi l e rapi dl y agi tati ng.
sweeping agi tati on.
Clear Curl Activator Gel
I ngredi en t s :
Water
Carbopol 940
G1 yceri n
P ropylene Gl ycol
Methyl Parabens
P ropyl Parabens
T r i ethanol ami ne ( 99%)
D i sodi um EDTA
Fragrance
Weiaht% F uncti on
70.6 Di l uent
0. 5 Gel l i ng Agent
0.2 P reservati ve
0.1 P reservati ve
0 . 5 Neutral i zer
0.1 Chel ati ng Agent
q . s .
10.0 Humectant
10.0 Humectant
Procedure:
1. Sl owl y s i f t Carbopol 940 i nt o the mr t e x o f r api dl y agi tati ng
water. When r es i n i s di spersed, reduce agi tati on and mix
u n t i l homogeneous di spersi on i s obtai ned.
2 . Separatel y combine gl yceri ne, gl ycol , parabens, tr i ethanol -
amine, EDTA, and fragrance.
3. Add to Carbopol di spersi on wi th moderate sweeping agi tati on
u n t i l cl ear gel i s obtai ned.
Formula COO27
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
292 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Brushing Lotion
wt%
A. Ami hope LL 0.5
TL-10 (PEG-20 Sorbitan Monolaurate) 0.5
1,3-Butanediol (Butylene Glyc ol) 0.5
Stearyl Alcohol 0.3
Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)* 10.0
B. Water 68.2
C. Ethanol 20.0
*0.5% w t Carbomer 941 aqueous solution (Neutralized by NaOH)
Procedure:
1. Each c h emic al cited in (A) is w eigh ed in a glass vessel. Heat
it to 60-70C and stir u n t il the solution is homogeneous.
2. Add a previously w armed w ater (B) (60-70C) to the former
prepared solution and cool it to room temperature w ith
sti rri ng.
3. Add 20.Og ethanol (C) to the cooled solution w it h st i rri n g .
Note:
This h air b rush ing lotion has a good antistatic effect and
gives good c om b ab ilit y. Ami hope L L decreased the f ric tion
betw een h air and comb or brush remark ably.
Usage:
Spray the h air before b rush in g.
Hair Brushing Lotion
WJ.%
Ami hope LL 0.5
POE (20) Sorbitan Monolaurate (Polysorbate 20) 0.5
Ethanol 99.0
Procedure:
Mix a ll components at room temperature.
Note:
This h air b rush in g lot ion is an alc oh olic type and has good
antistatic effect and smoothness for the h air.
Amihope LL acts as h air c on dit ion in g agent instead of the
c ationic surfactant.
Usage:
Spray the h air before b ru sh in g .
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products 293
Hair Conditioner with CAE
I ngredi ents:
Phase A :
Cetanol
Ami ter LGS-2 (Di steareth- 2 Lauroyl Glutamate)
Ni kkol MYS-55 (PEG-55 S tearate)
Phase B:
CAE (PCA E thyl Cocoyl Argi nate)
A-SM-(Stearamine Oxjde)
Prodew 100 ( S orbi tol & Sodium L actate & P rol i ne &
G1 yceri n
Methyl paraben
Water
Sodium PCA & Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
3. 0
2. 0
1 . o
1 . o
3.0
2.0
10. 0
0. 2
77.0
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 5. 0
Vi s : 2500 cps
Procedure:
Mix i ngredi ents phase A and heat t o 75-80 degrees C . Mix
i ngredi ents phase B and heat t o 75-80 degrees C. Add phase A
t o phase B and mix wi th homomixer (1500 t o 2500 rpm). Cool t o
35 degrees C.
Thi s hai r condi ti oner has good anti s tati c and condi ti oni ng
ef f ects .
SOURCE: Aj i nomoto USA I nc . : Formula No. 1 CR-56-11
Setting Lotion
Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash Out.
I nqredi ents:
Ul trahol d S trong
Ethanol , abs.
Water, d i s t i l l e d
Perfume o i l
AMP-95
% by Weight
2.00
0.35
30.00
67.65
q . s .
Procedure:
P l ace ethanol , AMP-95, water and perfume o i l i n the mix
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong, s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved, then f
i nt o contai ners.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary: Formu
PF-0335 suggested by EASF
ng
11
ati on
294 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative
%w/w
I Lanette 0 12.0
C eti ol V 1 . o
I 1 Dehyquart A 1.0
Water 55.0
I11 Cosmedia Guar C261 1 . o
Water 30.0
P reparati on: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the hot water
from phase I11 (70C), s ti r r ed, l e f t t o swel l , and cool ed t o
room temperature. Phase I i s mel ted a t 70-80C and an emulsion
i s prepared i n the normal way wi th the hot water phase 11.
Phase 111 i s added t o the cool ed emulsion and homogenized.
Note: Tube f i l l i n g .
Formula No. VA21-13
Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative
%w/w
I Emulgade F speci al 15. 0
C eti ol V 2. 0
I 1 Water
111 Cosmedia Guar C261
Water
P reparati on: See formul a VA21-13 above.
Note: Tube f i l l i n g
Formula No. VA21-15
41.8
1 .o
40.2
Vitamin Lecithin Hair Conditioner, Pearly
%w/w
I Emulgade F speci al 15.0
Eutanol G 4. 0
Comperl an 100
Tocopherol o i 1
Wheatgerm o i l
Water
I 1 Dehyquart A
Formula No. VA21-16
1. 5
1 . o
0. 5
4 . 0
74.0
Hair Conditioner with Jojoba Oil Substitute
%w/w
I Emulgade F speci al 8. 0
Sol uvi t Ri chter 2. 0
C eti ol 5600 3. 0
I 1 Dehyquart A 3. 0
Water 84.0
Formula No. VA21-17
SOURCE : Hen kel KGaA: Comet i c Model Formul ae
Hair Care Products 295
Hair Conditioning Gel
I nqredi ents/ Trade Name: % by Weight
P art A:
Deionized Water 89.94
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose 0. 80
Hydroxypropyl Guar/Hydoxypropyltrimonium Chl ori de 0.40
C i t r i c Aci d 0. 06
Methylparaben 0.02
P art B:
Panthenol 0. 30
Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 3. 00
P ar ti al l y Deacetyl ated C hi ti n (1% Solution)/Marine-Dew 3. 00
D i azo1 i d i nyl Urea 0. 30
P ol yquaterni urn-1 1 2 . OO
Procedure:
Add par t A i ngredi ents i n order. Heat t o 75 degrees Cent-
i grade. Mix unt i l cl ear and uni form. Cool t o 50 degrees Cent-
i grade. Add part B i ngredi ents i n the gi ven order, mi xi ng wel l
af ter each addi ti on. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 35 degrees
Centi grade.
Appearance: Cl ear gel
Vi s cos i ty: 7,000-10,000 (RVT #5 @ 10 rpm @ 25 degrees C)
PH: 4.50-5.50
Hair Liquid (Soft Type)
(0) P yroter GPI-25
2-Hexyldecyl Alocohol
E thyl Al cohol
Methylparaben
Perfume
(W) Aj i dew T-50
Water
Wt%
9. 0
1 . o
40.0
0. 1
q. s .
4. 0
45. 9
Procedure:
1. Di ssol ve (0) and (W) separatel y a t room temperature t o be
2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) wi th s t i r r i ng.
cl ear s ol uti ons .
pH: 7. 0
Vi s cos i ty: 6 cps
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
2% Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Cream
( 0 ) L i qui d P ar af f i n (#70)
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Squal ane
Ni kkol WCB
P olyoxyethylene (6300) Monostearate
Gl yceryl Monostearate ( S el f E mul si fyi ng Type)
P olyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether
(W) Aj i dew N- 50
Water
P reservati ve
P rocedure:
1. Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C.
2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l owl y wi th agi tati on
3. F i ni s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C.
pH: 7. 3
Vi s cos i ty: 900 cps
Hair Tonic
( 0 ) P yroter GPI-25
P yroter CPI-40
E thyl Al cohol (95%)
L-Menthol
Camphor
Methylparaben
Perfume
(W) Aj i dew T-50
Water
Wt%
38. 0
3. 0
0 . 5
0. 5
0. 1
4. 1
2. 9
3. 0
47. 9
q. s .
Wt %
2. 7
0 . 3
50. 0
0. 4
0. 05
0. 05
q. s
4. 0
42. 5
P rocedure:
1. Di ssol ve (0) and (W) separatel y a t room temperature t o be
2. Add (W) t o ( 0 ) wi th s t i r r i ng.
cl ear s ol uti ons .
pH: 7. 5
Vi s cos i ty: 5 cps
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Hair Care Products 297
Hair Dressing Cream O/W, with Allantoin
I Eumulgin 05
Eumulgin 010
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Vase1 i ne, whi te
II Al l antoi n
Water
Formula No. WF11-05
Hair Dressing Gel, Transparent
I Eumulgin B1
I I Water
I11 Carbopol 940
I V Tri ethanol ami ne
Formula No. WF11-07
E thyl /i sopropyl al cohol
Dehyquart C cr ys t.
Water
Hair Dressing Gel
I Nasuna 0 *)
I 1 Water
I11 Carbopol 940
I V Water
Tri ethanol ami ne
Formula No. WFl l -09
E thyl / i s opropyl al cohol
Hair Dressing Gel
I Nasuna B *)
I sopropyl al cohol
I 1 Water
Eumulgin L
I11 Carbopol 940
I V Water
Tri ethanol ami ne
Formula No. WF11-12
Note: *) The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West
Various PVP/VA types on the market can be
%w/w
8.0
8. 0
40.0
10.0
0. 3
33.7
%w/w
5 . 0
50.0
38.0
0.2
0. 8
1 .o
5.0
%w/w
4. 0
50.0
38.3
0.7
6. 0
1 . o
%w/w
3.0
20.0
70.0
0.7
0.8
4 . 5
1 . o
Germany.
ref erred t o .
Hair Dressing Gel, Oily
%w/w
I Eumulgin 83 13.0
C eti ol HE 20. 0
Eutanol G 5. 0
I I Water 62.0
P reparati on: Mel t I i n a water or gl yceri ne bath a t approx. 95C.
S t i r I 1 i nt o I a t 95C. Cease s t i r r i ng when the mi xture has
cool ed t o 60C, t o avoi d a i r pockets formi ng.
Formula No. WF11-13
SOURCE: Hen k el KGaA: Cosmet i c Model Formul ae
298 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Moisturizer
I naredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Hetoxi de G-26 (Gl ycereth- 26)
Di sodi um EDTA
Methyl Paraben
Phase B:
Hetamide MA (Acetamide MEA)
Hetsorb L-20 (P ol ysorbate 20)
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate)
Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 Stearate)
Gl yceryl Stearate
Hest MS ( Myri s tyl Stearate)
Cocoa Butter
Cetyl A1 coho1
Hetoxol G (S tearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth-20)
P ropyl Paraben
Phase C:
Kathon CG
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 5.0
Vi s cos i ty #4/30: 7500 cps
%
79.03
3. 0
0.1
0. 15
1 .o
0.2
10.0
0. 7
0.7
0. 5
0.5
1. 5
2. 5
0.05
0.07
Procedure:
1) I n a s ui tabl e s tai nl es s s teel ket t l e equipped wi th a L i ghtni n'
mi xer, add Phase A. Heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
2) I n a separate s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, add Phase 8 . Heat t o
75C whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
3) When both phases reach 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A. Mix u n t i l
uni form.
4) Cool t o 40C.
5) Add Phase C. Mix wel l .
Formula HC93-102
Hair Pomade
I naredi ents:
Mi neral O i l
Hetl an AC (Acetul ated L anol i n)
%
25.00
10.00
P etroleum 50.00
Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 2.00
Hest L-2-0 (Laureth- 2 Octanoate) 7.00
P araf f i n 6. 00
Procedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, combine a l l i ngredi ents . Heat t o
Formula HP93-101
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc, : Suggested F ormul attons
70C, whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l compl etel y mel ted and uni form.
Hair Care Products 299
Hair Relaxer
Formula 93-0302
Component:
A. Dermalcare N I
Mi neral O i l
Cetyl Al cohol
B. Sodium Hydroxide (50%)
Deionized Water
% BY Weinht
10.0
10.0
2.0
5.0
63.0
C. P reservati ve, Fragrance, Dye q . s .
Bl endi nq P rocedure:
Continue agi tati on and cool t o 35C, then add "C".
Heat "A" t o 85C, "B" t o 55C. Wi th agi tati on, add " B" t o "A".
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance: White, Opaque, vi scous cream
% Nonvol ati l e: 20-25
Hair Relaxer
Formula 93-0309
Component:
A. Dermal care DV-4232
Mi neral O i l
P etrol atum
S tearyl Al cohol
B. Deionized Water
P ropylene Gl ycol
P reservati ve, Fragrance, Dye(s)
C. Sodium Hydroxide (50%)
% By Weinht
10. 0
10.0
10.0
2. 0
62.0
3.0
3.0
q. s.
Bl endi nq P rocedure:
Heat " A " and " B" separatel y t o 75C. Wi th agi tati on, add " B"
t o "A". Continue agi tati on u n t i l uni form and cool t o 55C, then
add "C" ( wi thout preservati ve, fragrance and dye). Continue
agi tati on unt i l uni form and cool t o 35C. Then add compati bl e
preservati ve, fragrance and dye.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance: White, opaque, vi scous cream
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
% Nonvol ati l e: 30-35%
300 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Rinse Emulsion
I Lanette 0
Dehyquart SP
I 1 Water
Formula No. VC21-01
Hair Rinse Emulsion
I Emulgade F spec.
I 1 Dehyquart C c r ys t.
%w/w
0. 3
0. 6
99. 1
u
14.5
0. 6
Nasuna 8 3. 0
C i t r i c aci d 0. 5
I sopropanol 81. 4
Note: When used, the concentrate i s di l uted wi th water a t a
r a t i o of 1: 7!
Formula No . VC21-03
Hair Rinse
Dehyquart SP
Antara 430
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VC21-05
Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat-Free
P ol yquart H81
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VC51-02
Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat-Free
Dehyquart LT
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VC51-04
%w/w
0. 6
0.1
0. 3
99.0
%w/w
2. 0
0. 2
97. 0
%w/w
0. 4
0.5
99. 1
Hair Rinse, Fat-Free
%w/w
Dehyquart A 2. 0
Eumulgin L 0. 8
Water 97.2
Formula No . VC51-07
Hair Rinse Foam, Aerosol-Packed
%w/w
Dehyquart SP 0. 6
C i t r i c aci d 0. 5
C eti ol HE 1 . o
Water 97.9
F i l l i n g : 92 parts s ol uti on/ 8 parts propel l ant 12/114/Foam nozzl e
Formula No. VC71-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Hair Care Products 301
Hair Sculpturing Treatment
(Formula 90-0501M)
Thi s l i g h t condi ti oni ng formul a provi des a s of t hol d that i s
i deal l y s ui ted f o r hai r modeling and s cul pturi ng. Unl i ke most
s tyl i ng treatments that l eave the hai r tacky and s t i f f , t h i s
unique formul a demonstrates superb s tyl i ng properti es and l eaves
the hai r s of t and manageable. I t al s o reduces tangl es and f l y
away hai r caused by s t a t i c charges.
Recommended Use Di recti ons : Shampoo and ri ns e hai r as normal.
Thoroughly massage s cul pturi ng ri ns e i n t o wet hai r . Do not
ri ns e out. Towel dry hai r as normal. S tyl e and scul pture hai r
as desi red and blow dry.
Mi rapol A-15 0.50
J aguar HP-60 COS 0. 75
Mi rapol 133 3.50
P ropylene G1 ycol 0.50
G1 yceri ne 1 .oo
C i t r i c Aci d Q.S.
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q.S.
Water 74.15
SD Al cohol 40 20.00
61 endi na Procedure: Blend P ropylene G1 ycol and G1 yceri ne i n
water. Wi th smooth agi tati on, di sperse J aguar HP-60 COS i n water
base. Heat t o 50C. Once system i s uni form, bl end i n Mi rapol
A-15. Adj ust formul ati on pH t o 3.5-4.5 wi th c i t r i c aci d as
needed. S l owl y bl end i n Mi rapol 133 and mix u n t i l uni form.
Cool wi th smooth agi tati on t o 30-35C and bl end i n compati bl e
Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve. Once system i s uni form,
bl end i n SD Al cohol 40.
Appearance @ 25C: Cl ear t o S l i ghtl y Hazy L i qui d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 1,000-3,000 CPS
pH :
3. 5- 4. 5
% bv Weiaht
Typical Formulation Properties:
Flexible Hold Styling Mousse
(Formula 90-0102M)
Thi s s tyl i ng mousse formul a provi des a s of t hol d f or a l l
hai r types. I t i ncorporates extra body bui l di ng i ngredi ents
which hel p protect the hai r from blow dryi ng and repeated s tyl i ng
treatments. Thi s s tyl i ng mousse i s i deal l y s ui ted f or both
aerosol and pump di spenser appl i cati ons .
Mi r atai ne BET-0-30 1.50
M i r atai ne CBC 1.50
Mi rapol 133 2.00
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve Q.S.
Water 95.00
Bl endi ng Procedure: Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th
smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Mi ratai ne BET-0-30 and Mi ra-
tai ne CBC and mix u n t i l uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y
bl end i n Mi rapol 133 and mix u n t i l uni form. Add compati bl e
Fragrance, Dye, and P reservati ve
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants 13 S peci al ti es : Formulas
% by Weinht
302 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formuladons
Hair Setting Cream
(Formula 84-0804)
Phase 1:
H20
Carbopol 940 (BF Goodrich)
Phase 1 1 :
PVP-VA 335
D EA
SD-40 A1 coho1
% BY Weight
74.3
0. 2
5.0
1 . o
10.0
Phase 1 1 1 :
A1 kamuls GMS 4. 0
Dermalcare DV-4232 5. 0
Cetyl Al cohol NF 0. 5
Bl endi ng P rocedure:
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and heat t o 35-4OC. Wi th
rapi d and smooth agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t Carbopol 940. Mix u n t i l
compl etel y uni form. I n separate mi x i ng vessel s, prepare Phase
I 1 and Phase 1 1 1 . Heat Phase I 1 1 t o 75-8OC. Sl owl y bl end Phase I 1
i nt o Phase I and mix u n t i l uni form. Once system i s uni form,
bl end Phase I 1 1 i nt o vessel . Cool t o 35C and package.
Permanent Wave
(Formula 92-1208)
Dei oni zed water
M i ranol CPM-SF Conc.
Ammonium thi ogl ycol ate, 100%
Ammonium hydroxi de, 25%
Perfume
Col or
Procedure:
Add i n order l i s t e d and mix u n t i l uni form
% by Weight
82.0
5. 0
8. 0
5. 0
q . s .
9 , s .
Cold Perm (Carbonated)
(Formula 92-1210)
% by Weight
Dei oni zed water 77.0
M i ranol C2M-SF Conc. 5. 0
Ammonium carbonate 5. 0
Ammonium hydroxi de, 25% 3.0
Ammoni um thi ogl ycol ate, 100% 10.0
Perfume q . s .
Col or q . s .
Procedure:
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Add i n order l i s t e d and mix u n t i l uni form.
Hair Care Products 303
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Luvi skol VA 37 E
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
96 by Weight
2. 40
0. 56
1. 20
55. 84
40.00
q . s
Procedure:
kol VA 37 E t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear .
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P and Luvi s-
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 2 bar
Densi ty: 0.76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0295 suggested by BASF
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi en t s :
Luvimer IO0 P
AMP Regular
Luvi skol VAP 343 E
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
% bv Weight
0.60
0. 14
4 . 8 0
5 4 . 4 6
40. 00
q . s .
P rocedure:
Luvi skol VAP 343 E t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear .
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P and
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3.2 bar
Densi ty: 0.77 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0296 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
304 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Spray
I ngredi ents:
Luvi set CAP
AMP Regular
S i l i cone f l u i d
Fragrance
Methylene chl ori de
Ethanol, anhydrous
Propane/butane, 40/60
% by Weisht
2.00
0. 16
0. 10
0. 05
15.00
52.69
30.00
F ormul ati on PF-0120 from Cosmetics and T oi l etr i es , Vol I 100,
Apr i l 1985
Medium Hold Hair Spray
I ngredi ents :
L uvi set CAP
AMP Regular
S i l i cone 566 F l ui d
Propane1 Butane, 40/60
Ethanol , anhydrous
% by Weiaht
2.00
0. 16
0. 10
30.00
67.74
F ormul ati on PF-0121 from Cosmetics and T oi l etr i es , Vol 100,
A p r i l 1985
Firm Holding/High Humidity Hair Spray
I ns redi ents:
Stepanhold E xtra
AMP Regular
Dimethicone Copolyol S urfactant
Fragrance
SDA-40A A1 coho1
% by Weiaht
15. 00
0 . 3 6
0.20
04.42
9.5.
Procedure:
AMP and mix wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra and mix u n t i l compl etel y
di ssol ved. Add di methi cone copol yol and mix thoroughl y. Add
desi red fragrance and mix wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0158 suggested by Stepan Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co I : Angus P roduct Formulary
Charge al cohol t o mi x i ng vessel I Wi th moderate agi tati on, add
Hair Care Products 305
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f or a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es.
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
AMP Regular
Luvi skol VAP 343 E
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
bv Weiqht
2.40
0. 56
1. 20
55.84
40.00
q . s ,
Procedure:
Luvi skol VAP 343 E t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P and
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 2 bar
Densi ty: 0. 76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0297 suggested by BASF
Hairspray
S trong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
Ul trahol d 8
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
% bv Weiqht
2.40
0. 60
0.62
56.38
40.00
q . s .
Procedure:
hol d 8 t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P and Ul tra-
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 2 bar
Densi ty: 0. 76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0298 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
306 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I naredi ents :
Luvimer 100 P
Untrahol d 8
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
% by Weight
0.60
2.40
0.38
56.62
40.00
4. s .
P rocedure:
8 t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer P and Ul trahol d
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 8 bar
Densi ty: 0.76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0299 suggested by BASF
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I nqredi ents:
Luvimer 100 P
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
Procedure:
Combine ethana
ho
, AMP and perfume. J d Luvimer
I d Strong t o the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear .
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 2 bar
Densi ty: 0.76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0300 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
% bv Weight
2.40
0.60
0.63
56.37
40,OO
4 . s .
00 P and Ul tr a-
Hair Care Products 307
Hairspray
Strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I nqredi ents :
Luvimer 100 P
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol
Dimethyl ether
Perfume
P rocedure:
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume.
Ul trahol d Strong t o the s ol uti on and
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3.2 bar
Densi ty: 0.76 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0301 suggested by BASF
% bv Wei aht
0.60
2.40
0.42
56.58
40.00
q . s .
Add Luvimer 100 P and
mix u n t i l cl ear .
Pump Setting Spray (100% VOC)
E xtra strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty,
good brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents : % by Weight
Luvimer 100 P 6.00
Ethanol 92.61
Perfume q . s .
Procedure:
t o the s ol uti on and mix unt i l cl ear .
F ormul ati on PF-0302 from BASF
AMP Regular 1.39
Combine Ethanol, AMP Regular and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P
Pump Setting Spray (80% VOC)
Strong hol d, f o r a l l cl i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush-out, good wash-out properti es .
I nnredi ents : % by Weiqht
Luvimer 100 P 6.00
AMP-95 1.39
Water 12.61
Ethanol 80.00
Perfume q . s
P rocedure:
Combine Ethanol, AMP-95 and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o
the s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear .
F ormul ati on PF-0303 from BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
308 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations
Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed
Nasuna B *)
E thyl /i sopropyl a1 coho1
Methylene chl ori de
Note: F i l l i ng: 40 parts hai r l acquer
I n accordance w i t h the German cosmetics l egi s l ati on, the
methylene chl ori de content must not exceed 35%.
The packaging must bear the f ol l owi ng i ns cr i pti on: "Do not
spray near flames or gl owi ng obj ects . "
Formula No. WE71-01
60 parts propel l ant 11/12 (50:50)
%w/w
5.0
75.0
20.0
Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed
%w/w
Nasuna B *) 4. 0
E thyl /i sopropyl al cohol 96.0
Note: F i l l i ng: 40 parts hai r l acquer
60 parts propel l ant 11/12 (50:50)
Formula No. WE71 -03
Note: *) The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West Germany.
Various PVP/VA types on the market can be ref erred t o .
Hair Dressing Cream O/W
I Eumulgin 05
Eumulgin 010
P ar af f i n o i l
I 1 Water
Formula No. WF11-01
Hair Dressing Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
P ar af f i n o i l
Vase1 i ne, whi te
C eti ol V
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. WF11-03
Hair Dressing Cream O/W
I Eumulgin B1
Cuti na MD
P ar af f i n o i l , low vi scous
I 1 Water
Formula No. WF11-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
6.0
6.0
60.0
28.0
%w/w
9. 0
12. 0
15.0
10. 0
5.0
0. 3
48.7
%w/w
5. 0
15.0
20.0
60.0
Hair Care Products 309
High Solids Hair Spray-80% VOC
I ngredi ents :
OAC-2 (Lovocryl - 47)
AMP-95
T r i ethyl c i t r a t e (Ci troF l ex- 2)
Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716)
G1 yceri n
dl-P anthenol
Deionized water
Anhydrous ethanol SDA-40
n-Butane
DM E
Fragrance, pres ervati ve
I by Weight
8 . 0 0
1. 43
0.20
0. 15
0.10
0. 10
10.02
50.00
12.00
18.00
q. s .
Recommended Valve S peci f i cati ons :
vapor tap, 0.122 i n di p tube; actuator: 0.016 i n MB concave
Del ta.
Formula PF-0277 from Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es , November, 1993.
P reci s i on Valve Corp., 0.016 i n stem, 0.016 i n body, no
High Solids Hair Spray
Innovative 80% Equivalent
I ngredi ents:
OAC-2 (Lovocryl - 47)
Laurami de DEA (Monami d 71 6)
Gl yceri n
d l -Pantheno1
Deionized water
Anhydrous ethanol SDA-40
DM E
Fragrance, pres ervati ve
AMP-95
9s by Weight
10.00
1. 79
0. 10
0. 10
0.05
32.96
22. 00
33.00
q. s
Recommended Valve S peci f i cati ons :
tap, 0.040 i n di p tube; actuator; Excel1 200 Mi s ty 0.016 i n
Mi s ty.
F ormul ati on PF-0278 from Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es , November, 1993
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Seaquist NS-34, 0.013 i n stem, c api l l ar y body, 0. 013 i n vapor
310 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Instant Hair Conditioner, Clear
I sopropanol
C eti ol HE
Dehyquart C c r ys t.
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Note: Low vi scous
Formula No. VB51-01
Instant Hair Conditioner, Fat-Free, Clear
Dehyquart A
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR 2% i n water
I sopropanol
Water
Note: High vi scous
Formula No. VB51-03
Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear
I
I 1
Eumulgin B2
Comperl an COD
Dehyquart A
P ol yquart H81
C i t r i c aci d
Water
%w/w
7 0 . 0
2 0 . 0
5 . 0
5. 0
%w/w
4. 0
10.0
60.0
5.0
21 . o
%a
2. 2
3. 7
1. 5
2. 0
0. 3
90.3
Note: High viscous
P reparati on: Mel t phase I a t approx. 65C and s t i r i n phase I 1
al s o heated t o 65C. S t i r unt i l cool ed t o approx. 40C.
Formula No. VB51-05
Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear
e
I Eumulgin 62 2. 2
Comperl an COD 3. 7
Dehyquart A 1. 5
I 1 C i t r i c aci d 0.3
Water 92.3
Note: High vi scous
P reparati on: Mel t phase I a t approx. 65C and s t i r i n phase I 1
al s o heated to 65C. S t i r unt i l cool ed t o approx. 40C.
Formula No. VB51-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Hair Care Products 311
Instant Hair Conditioner With J ojoba Oil Substitute
%w/w
I Emulgade A
Comperl an 100
C eti ol 5600
Dehyquart A
Water
Formula No. VB21-24
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
3. 5
1. 5
1 . o
5. 0
4. 0
85.0
Conditioning Rinse
%w/w
I Emulgade K 4. 0
I 1 Perfume 0. 1
C i t r i c aci d, 50% s ol uti on 0. 1
Water 95.8
P reparati on: S pri nkl e Emulgade K i nt o the hot water phase
(85-9OC) s t i r r i n g conti nuousl y. Perfume and preserve when under
40C. F ul l emul s i f i cati on occurs at between 30-4OC.
Formula No. VB21-26
Conditioning Rinse with J ojoba Oil Substitute
%w/w
I Emulgade K 5. 0
I 1 C eti ol 5600 1. 5
Perfume 0. 1
C i t r i c aci d 50% s ol uti on 0. 1
I 11 Water 93. 3
P reparati on: S pri nkl e Emulgade K i nt o the hot water phase
(85-9OC) s t i r r i n g conti nuousl y. When the mi xture s tar ts t o
emul si fy, immediately add C eti ol 5600. Perfume and preserve when
under 40C. F ul l emul s i f i cati on occurs a t between 30 and 40C.
Formula No. VB21- 27
Conditioning Rinse with Protein
I Emulgade K 5. 0
I 1 Hydagen P 1 . o
Water 92 I 2
111 Eutanol G 1. 5
Perfume 0. 1
C i t r i c aci d 50% 0 . 2
P reparati on: Make a paste wi th Hydagen P and part o f the hot
water (60C). S t i r Emulgade K i n t o the hot water phase (85-9OC).
Add the Hydagen P/water mi xture. I mmediately s t i r i n Eutanol G.
S t i r u n t i l cool ed t o 30-4OC. Perfume when under 40C.
Formula No. VB21-28
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
312 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed
I Cuti na AGS
Lanette 0
Eumulgin 010
C eti ol V
I 1 Dehyton AB30
Dehyquart SP
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
F i l l i n g : 92 parts s ol uti on
Foam nozzl e
Formula VA71-01
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream
I Lanette 0
C eti ol SN
Comperlan KM
I 1 Dehyquart A
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: Tube f i l l i n g
Formula No. VB11-01
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream
I Lanette 16
Comperlan KM
I 1 Dehyquart A
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
111 Water
Note: Squeeze- bottl e f i l l i n g
Formula No. VB11-02
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream
I Lanette 0
C eti ol SN
Comperlan KD
I 1 Dehyquart SP
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: Tube f i l l i n g
Formula No. VBl l - 03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
%w/w
3. 0
4. 0
3. 0
2. 0
3. 0
1. 5
8. 0
0. 5
75.0
96w/w
12.0
1 .o
3. 0
2.0
5. 0
0. 5
76. 5
%w/w
2. 5
5. 0
2.0
5. 0
1 . o
74.5
10. 0
%w/w
12.0
1 . o
3.0
1. 5
5. 0
0. 5
77. 0
Hair Care Products 313
Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed
I Lanette 16
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Dehyquart A
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: F i l l i n g : 92 parts s ol uti on
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foam nozzl e
Formula No. VB71-01
Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed
I Emulgade F spec.
C eti ol V
I 1 Dehyquart LT
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: F i l l i n g : 92 parts s ol uti on
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foam nozzl e
Formula No. V871-03
Protein Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed
I Emulgade F speci al
Emulgin 82
Eutanol G
Hydagen P
Water
Water
I 1 Dehyquart A
I 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261
P reparati on: Phase I i s mel ted a t approx.
di ssol ved i n Dehyquart A, heated t o approx
eous. The hot water (70-8OC) i s added. The
added t o phase I . Perfuming and preservi ng
at under 40C. Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s pri nk
(70-80C), s t i r r i n g s trongl y. The swol l en m
the emulsion has cool ed and homoaenized bv
%w/w
3. 0
2.0
5. 0
1 . o
89. 0
s/ow/w
3. 5
1 . o
1. 5
5.0
1 . o
88. 0
%w/w
2. 0
1 . o
8. 0
8. 0
0. 5
30.0
0. 5
50.0
0-8OC. Hydagen P i s
aqueous phase I 1 i s
are carri ed out
ed i nt o the hot water
xture i s added when
s t i r r i ng. The pH i s
60C, u n t i l homogen-
adj usted t o approx. 4 wi th phosphoric aci d.
Note: F i l l i ng: 89 parts l i qui d
Foam nozzl e
Formula No. VB71-04
11 parts propel l ant, propane/butane
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
314 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Instant Hair Conditioning Cream
I Cuti na MD
Lanette 0
Ceti ol V
I 1 Dehyquart SP
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: Tube f i l l i n g
Formula No. VBll-05
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Emulgade F
I 1 C i t r i c aci d
C eti ol V or Eutanol G
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Perfume 1 emon
Water
Appl i cati on: 1 teaspoonful i n 100 c l water
Formula No. VB21-01
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Lanette 16
I 1 Dehyquart A
C i t r i c aci d
Water
I 1 1 Water
Formula No. VB21-02
%w/w
8.0
2.5
5.0
1.5
10.0
0.1
72.9
%w/w
3.5
10.0
3.0
3.0
0.2
80.3
o/ow/W
3. 0
2.0
1 . o
82.0
12.0
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion with Pearly Gloss
I Lanette 16
Comperlan KM
I 1 Dehyquart A
C i t r i c aci d
Water
I 11 Water
Formula No. VB21-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
2.5
5.0
2.0
1 . o
79.5
10.0
Hair Care Products 315
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream
I Emulgade F
I I Water
Formula No. VA 11-01
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream
I Lanette 0
Hydagen P
Wool wax al cohol
I 1 Lanette E
Water
Formula No. VA 11-03
%w/w
15. 0
8 5 . 0
%w/w
12.0
2. 0
6. 0
3. 0
77. 0
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Herbal Pack
I Eumulgin 61 1 . o
Emulgade F spec. 15.0
Wool wax al cohol 4. 0
Eutanol G 5. 0
Vase1 i ne, whi te 2. 0
I 1 Dehyquart A 2.0
Hexapl ant Ri chter 3. 0
C i t r i c aci d 0. 2
Water 67. 8
Note: When used a t a r ai o o f 1:1, the cream must be di l uted wi th
Formula No. VA 11-04
water!
Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Vitamin Pack
I Emulgade F spec.
Wool wax al cohol
Eutanol G
Vasel i ne, whi te
I 1 Dehyquart A
Sol uvi t Ri chter
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: When used a t a
Formula No. VA11-05
wi th water!
96w/w
12. 0
4. 0
5. 0
2.0
8. 0
3. 0
0. 2
65.8
r a t i o of 1: 1, the cream must be di l uted
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
316 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Lanette 16
I 1 Dehyquart A
111 C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Hydagen P
Water
3. 0
4. 0
2. 0
1. 2
89. 8
P reparati on: Lanette 16 i s mel ted at 75-8OC. Hydagen P i s
di ssol ved i n Dehyquart which i s s l i ght l y warmed. Then the
c i t r i c aci d s ol uti on and the water (75-80C) are added and
mixed wi th phase I whi l e s t i r r i ng. S t i r u n t i l compl etel y cool ed.
Formula No. VB21-04
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Lanette 0
11 C i t r i c aci d
Dehyquart C c r ys t.
Water
Formula No, VB21-05
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Emulgade 1000 N I
Eutanol G
I 1 Dehyquart SP
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: Squeeze- bottl e f i l l i n g
Formula No. VB21-07
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Emulgade 1000 N I
Eutanol G
I 1 Dehyquart LT
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VB21-09
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
W f
4. 0
1 . o
0. 6
94. 4
o/ow/w
4.0
2. 0
1. 5
5. 0
0. 5
87.0
%w/W
4. 0
2. 0
I . 5
0. 5
92. 0
Hair Care Products 31 7
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
%w/w
I Emulaade F soec. 10.0
Cet i 01
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Vi scontran MHPC 6000-0.8% s ol uti on
Water
I 1 Dehyquart SP
Note: Tube f i l l i n g
Formula No. VA21-08
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Lanette 0
Eumulgin 82
Comperlan 100
C eti ol B
I 1 Dehyquart LT
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VA21-10
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Cuti na AGS
Eutanol G
Lanette 0
Comperlan KD
Dehyquart LT
C i t r i c aci d
Vi scontran MHPC 6000-0.8% S ol uti on
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. VA21-11
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Emulgade F speci al
Comperlan KM
Eutanol G
I 1 Dehyquart LDB
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VA21-12
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
2. 0
1. 5
10.0
0. 5
20.0
56.0
%w/w
8.0
2. 0
1 . o
2.0
1. 5
10.0
0. 5
75. 0
%w/w
12. 0
2. 0
3. 0
2. 0
1. 5
10. 0
0. 1
20.0
49. 4
%w/w
15. 0
5. 0
2.0
2. 0
10. 0
0. 5
65. 5
318 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Lanette 0
Eutanol G
Vase1 i ne, whi te
I 1 Lanette E
Water
C i t r i c aci d
%w/w
15.0
3.0
3. 0
3. 0
73.8
0. 2
I 1 1 Chol esteri n 2. 0
Formula No. VA 21-03
I
I 1
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion for Dry Hair
Eumulgin B1
Emulgade F spec.
Eutanol G
Wool wax al cohol
Vasel i ne, whi te
Hydagen P
Dehyquart A
Hexaplant Ri chter
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
46w/W
I . o
15.0
5.0
2. 0
2. 0
2. 0
2.0
3. 0
1. 3
66.7
P reparati on: Phase I i s mel ted a t 75-8OC. Hydagen P i s di ssol ved
i n Dehyquart A which i s warmed s l i ght l y. The hot water (approx.
80C) and the remai ni ng i ngredi ents of phase I 1 are added and
s t i r r e d i n t o phase I . S t i r r i ng conti pues u n t i l the mi xture i s
col d .
Formula No. VA21-04
Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion
I Cuti na M D
C eti ol V
Lanette 0
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
I 1 C i t r i c aci d
Vi scontran MHPC 6000 0.8% s ol uti on
Dehyquart A
Water
Formula No. VA21-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
8. 0
2.0
2. 0
10.0
0. 1
20.0
2. 0
55.9
Hair Care Products 319
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion, Clouding
%w/w
I Comperlan KM 1 . o
Dehyquart LT 2. 0
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB9 3. 0
C i t r i c aci d 0.3
Water 93. 7
Note: When t h i s hai r condi ti oner i s shaken, pearl y gl oss cl oudi ng
i s produced (suspended materi al which s ettl es when l e f t t o
stand) I
Formula No. VB21-10
Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion
%w/w
I Lanette 16 2. 0
Comperlan LP
I 1 Dehyquart A
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Formula No. VB21-12
4. 0
4. 0
5. 0
1. 0
84.0
Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative
%w/w
I Emulgade 1000 N I 4.0
I 1 Dehyquart A 4.0
Water 51 .7
1 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 0. 3
Water 40.0
Note: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the hot water from
phase I 1 1 (70C), s ti r r ed, l e f t t o s wel l , and cool ed t o room
temperature. Phase I i s mel ted a t 70-BOC and an emulsion i s
prepared i n the normal way wi th the hot water phase 11. Phase
I 1 1 i s added t o the cool ed emulsion and homogenized.
Squeeze bo t t l e f i l l i n g .
Formula No. VB21-14
Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative
%w/w
I Emulgade 1000 N I 4. 0
I 1 Water 44.5
I 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 1. 5
Water 50.0
Note: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the hot water from
phase I 1 1 (70C), s ti r r ed, l e f t t o s wel l , and cool ed t o room
temperature. Phase I i s mel ted a t 70-8OC and an emulsion i s
prepared i n the normal way wi th the hot water phase 11. Phase
I 1 1 i s added i n the normal way wi th the hot water phase 1 1 . Phase
I 1 1 i s added t o the cool ed emulsion and homogenized.
Squeeze bo t t l e f i l l i n g .
Formula No. VB21-16
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
320 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Keratin Creme Dry Hair Dressing
A. Dei oni zed Water
Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S ol ' n. (Carbomer 940)
Kera-Tein 1000 SD (Hydrol yzed K erati n)
Tween 60 (P ol ysorbate 60)
Arl acel 60 (S orbi tan S tearate)
Ol i ve O i l
Cetyl Al cohol
I sopropyl P al mi tate
J oj oba O i l
Castor O i l
P roto-Lan B*
B. P etrol atum
C . Tri ethanol ami ne - 99%
Fragrance, P reservati ves
%w/w
4 2 . 7 0
40.00
1- 00
5. 00
1 . 5 0
1. 50
2. 00
1 . oo
2. 00
0.10
1 .oo
1 . oo
1. 20
q. s
*CTFA: L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrolyzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosi ne (and) Sesame O i l (and)
Lanol i n Al cohol I
P rocedure:
wi th agi tati on. Mi x u n t i l smooth. Add Phase C c ar ef ul l y t o
avoi d aerati on.
P roperti es :
s p l i t ends and dryness. Proto-Lan 8 contai ns protei ns, essenti al
f a t t y aci ds and phosphol i pi ds which repl eni sh and rej uvenate
overworked and stressed hai r. Kera-Tei n 1000 SD moi s tur i zes,
protects and strengthens the hai r . Leaves a natural shi ne and
smooth f i ni s h.
Us es :
For wet or dry hair--Massage a smal l amount i nt o the hai r
and es peci al l y i nt o the ends t o improve natural shi ne, s tyl i ng
and softness.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : F ormul ati on #HC- 511
Heat Phases A & B separatel y t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t 8OC
A l eave- i n creme hai r dressi ng which condi ti ons, reduces
Hair Care Products 321
Keratin Infused Hair Treatment
A . Panthenol
Methyl Paraben
Fragrance
P ol ysorbate 80
SD Al cohol 40A
%w/w
0. 10
0. 20
0. 20
0. 50
2. 00
0 . Dei oni zed Water 87.30
Dowanol DPM (PPG-2 Methyl E ther) 1 . oo
Gafquat 755N (P olyquaternium-11) 1 . oo
Kera-Tein 1000 AS (E thyl E ster o f Hydrol yzed Kerati n) 3.00
Quat-Pro S 30 (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxyethyl
Hydrolyzed Col l agen) 1 . oo
Quaternium-15 0.20
Amersi l DMC-357 (Dimethicone Copol yol ) 0. 50
C. Dow Corni ng 929 Emulsion (Amodimethicone and
Procedure:
A . Add the r es t o f the (6) i ngredi ents wi th mi xi ng. Mi xture
shoul d be cl ear a t t h i s stage. Add Phase C (mi xture becomes
mi 1 ky) .
P roperti es:
A l eave- i n condi ti oner/ detangl er f or adding body and shi ne
t o the hai r . Makes f i ne, l i mp hai r f eel thi cker, more manageable.
The Quat-Pro S 30 adds body and smoothness due t o i t s hi gh mol-
ecul ar wei ght. Kera-Tein 1000 AS i s a cati oni c, kerati n deri v-
ati ve which adds shi ne and combabi l i ty t o t h i s product.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HC-510
Tal l owtri moni um Chl ori de and Nonoxynol-10) 3. 00
Pre-mix Phase A u n t i l cl ear. Add water from Phase B t o Phase
Extra Rich Conditioner
Mackine 601
Cetyl Al cohol
Mac kp r o WLW
P hosphoric Aci d
Sodium Chl ori de
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
Procedure:
1. Add f i r s t f i v e components t o water and heat t o 70C
2 . Wi th s t i r r i ng, cool t o 5OC.
3. Add dye, Mackstat DM and fragrance.
4. Cool and fi 11,
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td, : Suggested F ormul ati on
W h t ,%
2. 5
1 . %
2. 0
1. 6
0. 3
q . s .
100.0
322 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Holding/Body Building Hair Spray
I naredi ents:
Stepanhold E xtra
AMP Regular
Dimethicone Copolyol Resin Modi f i er
P anthenol
PPG-IO Methyl Glucose Ether
Fragrance
SDA-40A A1 coho1
% by Weight
11 - 88
0. 30
0. 15
0. 20
0. 10
87. 37
q . s .
P rocedure:
add AMP and mix wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra and mix unti 1
compl etel y di ssol ved. Add dimethicone copol yol , panthenol ,
and PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, mi xi ng wel l af ter each addi ti on.
Add desi red fragrance and mix thoroughl y.
F ormul ati on PF-0162 suggested by Stepan Co.
Charge al cohol t o mi x i ng vessel . Wi th moderate agi tati on,
Forever Curls Hair Spray
I ngredi ents :
Crovol A-70
Ethanol SDA-40
Amphomer 28-4910
Dei oni zed Water
Hydrotri ti cum QL
AMP-95
"-P_r-We_i gbt
1 . oo
63.50
0. 75
33.62
0. 13
1 . oo
P rocedure:
water, AMP-95 and Crovol A-70. Add al cohol s ol uti on t o water
s ol uti on wi th mi xi ng. When cl ear, mix i n Hydrotri ti cum QL.
F ormul ati on PF-0169 suggested by Croda I nc .
Dust Amphomer i n t o al cohol under vi gorous agi tati on. Premix
Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray
I naredi ents :
Stepanhold E xtra
AMP-Regular
Ammonyx KP
Methyl gl uceth- 20
Fragrance
SDA-40A A1 coho1
% by Weight
13. 75
0. 35
0. 50
0. 25
85. 15
q. s
P rocedure:
Charge al cohol t o vessel . Wi th moderate agi tati on, add AMP-
Regul ar. Mi x wel l . Add Stepanhold E xtra. Mi x u n t i l compl etel y
di ssol ved. Add Ammonyx KP. Mi x thoroughl y. Add methyl gl uceth- 20.
Mi x unti 1 compl etel y di ssol ved. Add fragrance. Mi x we1 1 .
F ormul ati on PF-0178 suggested by Stepan Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 323
Liquid Protein Protective Hair Finish
A . Dei oni zed Water
Methylparaben
Celquat L-200 (P olyquaternium-4)
Sodi urn Benzoate
%w/w
8 9 . 4
0.2
0. 2
0. 2
B. C i t r i c Acid, granul ar 0. 4
Quat-Pro S30 (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxyethyl Hydrol yzed
Col l agen)
Cati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti des
Carsoquat CT 429 (Cetrimonium C hl ori d
Dowi ci l 200
C . I sopropyl Al cohol
Procedure:
1. Mi x and heat Phase A t o 160F. Mix unt
2. Mi x and cool t o 120F.
3. Add Phase 8 .
Fragrance
1 . o
3.0
0.3
0. 2
5.0
0. 1
1 di ssol ved. Heat o f f .
4. Pre-mix Phase C and add t o the r es t o f the batch.
P roperti es :
Thi s protecti ve s tyl er u t i l i z e s the protecti ve and f i l m -
formi ng properti es o f protei ns t o coat and seal the hai r .
Quat-Pro S30 and C ati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti des are cati oni c,
enhanced protei ns which bui l d body and add a smooth, natural
texture t o the hai r due t o t he i r moi sture bi ndi ng properti es .
The hi gh mol ecul ar wei ght o f these substanti ve protei ns w i l l
gentl y s et the hai r . The two pol ymeri c quats add an easy t o
s tyl e combing a b i l i t y .
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HC-508
Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner
Mackam 35
Mackalene 116
Mackal ene 71 6
Matrosol 250 HHR
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Procedure:
1. Completely hydrate Natrosol .
2. Add f i r s t three components and heat t o 40C.
3 . Blend u n t i l cl ear.
4 . Add remai ni ng components and cool .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Weiqht ,%
10. 0
8.0
1 . o
0. 7
q. s
100.0
324 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I nqredi ents:
Resyn 28-2930
Anhydrous Ethanol , SDA-40
Dei oni zed Water
P ropel l ant A-31
P ropel 1 ant A-1 08
P ressure: 75 ps i
Cloud P oi nt: -12C
Spray Rate: 0.72 grams/second
AMP-95
36 by Weight
5.00
0. 47
65.00
14.53
6.40
8. 60
P rocedure:
Di ssol ve AMP i n anhydrous ethanol and water. Whi l e mai ntai n-
s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930. When s ol uti on
1. Charge cans wi th propel l ants .
i ng good agi tati on, sl owl y
i s complete, f i l t e r and f i
Valve S peci f i cati ons : Prec
Stem: 04-1215
Gasket: 05-031 0
S pri ng: 06-601 0
Body : 07-7910
si on Valve:
0.16
Buna
ss
.013
cup- 32-7300-62 F l at, ET/B, Dimpled, FBS
Actuator: Concave Del ta . 020 MB
Di p Tube: 09-2010 0.122 I D
F ormul ati on PF-0285 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical Co.
Superhold Pump Hair Spray
I naredi ents:
Dow Corni ng Q2-5220
Gantrez ES-225
AMP Regular
SD Al cohol 40
% by Weight
0.50
10.00
0. 20
89.30
Procedure:
Weigh out the al cohol and di s s ol ve the AMP Regular i nt o it.
S t i r i n the res i n and the Dow Corning Q2-5220 res i n modi f i er.
Mi x u n t i l uni form and add the fragrance, i f desi red. Dow Corni ng
193 or Dow Corni ng 190 surfactant can be s ubs ti tuted f or Dow
Corni ng 02-5220 res i n modi f i er.
F ormul ati on PF-0286 suggested by Dow Corning
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 325
Maximum Keratin Therapy
(For Extremely Damaged Hair)
Hai r i s composed o f Kerati n protei n. As hai r becomes damaged
and abused, pr otei n i s l o s t . The hai r becomes weaker, more
d i f f i c u l t t o manage and l oses i t s gl os s and l i vel i nes s .
Thi s f ormul ati on w i l l repl eni s h pr otei n l o s t from the hai r
wi th a s ol ubl e ker ati n protei n. Kera-Tein 1000 has been made
w i t h the optimum mol ecul ar shape and weight so as t o maximize
i t s coati ng and r epai r properti es . I t w i l l hel p seal extremely
damaged hai r i mprovi ng i t s texture and shi ne.
and l e f t on f o r 15-20 minutes pr i o r t o r i ns i ng.
'Maximum K erati n Therapy' should be appl i ed af t er shampooing
A. Deionized Water
Methylparaben
Celquat H-100 (P olyquaternium-4)
Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrolyzed Kerati n)
Cati oni c Collagen P ol ypepti des
C etri moni um Chl ori de
Ceraphyl 60 (Quaternium-22)
Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15)
B. I var l an AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanol i n O i l )
P ol ysorbate 20
Fragrance
%&&
85.15
0.20
0.30
10.00
1 . oo
0.20
0. 30
0. 20
2.00
0. 50
0.15
P rocedure:
1. Di ssol ve Methylparaben and Celquat i n the water. S l i ght
2. Add the r es t o f Phase A. Mi x.
3. Premix Phase B and add. Mi x.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : F ormul ati on #HC-503
warming may be necessary t o s ol ubi l i z e the Paraben.
Clear Leave-On Hair Conditioner
Mackal ene 426
Natrosol 250 HHR
Mackstat DM
Deionized Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
P rocedure:
1. Completely di sperse Natrosol i n water.
2. Add Mackalene 426 and bl end unt i l cl ear .
3. Heat t o 40C and add remaining components.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Wei aht ,%
8.0
1 . o
4. s .
100.0
326 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mink Anti-Dandruff Hair Groom
A very ef f ec ti ve hai r groom f o r c ontr ol l i ng dandruff. Holds
hai r i n pl ace, provi des thi ckness t o the hai r s haf t and produces
a r i c h l us ter .
A. Gl yceryl Stearate, pure (Cerasynt SD, Van Oyk)
S teari c Aci d XXX (Emersol 132, Emery)
Lanol i n F atty Aci ds (Amerlate LFA, Amerchol)
Cetyl P al mi tate (Standamul 1616, Henkel)
Mi neral O i l (Carnation, Sonneborn)
Mink O i l (Heavy F racti on, Emulan)
Tri ethanol ami ne, 99%
S orbi tol , 70% (Sorbo, I C I )
Water
B. Water
C . Zi nc P yri thi one, 48% (Omadine, Ol i n)
D. P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Oi az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Methyl Paraben (and) P ropyl Paraben
(Germaben 11, Sutton)
Perfume
Procedure:
1. Mel t Phase A. Hold a t 75C.
2. Heat Phase B t o 75C, then add t o Phase A vi a hi gh
3. Add Phase C and D a t 45C.
propel l or agi tati on. S t i r cool t o 45C.
speed
Wt.%
1. 0
2.5
0. 5
3. 5
12.0
10.0
50. 0
0. 6
7. 5
0. 5
10.7
1 . o
0. 2
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Cream Rinse
Thi s vi scous cream r i ns e of f er s extended l i f e t o cur l y,
wavy hai r i n hi gh humi di ty condi ti ons . Lexorez 100 contri butes
t o t h i s at t r i but e and al s o l ends t o the hai r ' s shi ne.
%w/w
A. Deionized Water 84.10
P reservati ves QS
8 . Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl and Gl ycol S tearate and
Ceteth-2 (Lexate CRC) 4.70
Mi neral O i l N F ( 5 LT) 4.70
G1 yceri n/ Di ethyl ene G1 ycol /Adi pate Crosspolymer
( Lexorez 100) 4.70
Cetyl Al cohol (Cetal ) 0.90
PEG-150 Di s tearate (Kessco PEG 6000 Di stearate) 0.90
C. C i t r i c Aci d N F QS pH = 4.5
P rocedure:
1. Combine s ecti on "A" and heat t o 75C.
2. Combine s ecti on " 8" and heat t o 70C.
3. I mmediately begi n cool i ng t o ambient temperature. Agi tate
4. A t 40C adj us t pH t o approxi matel y 5 wi th phase "C".
SOURCE: I nol ex Chemical Co.: Formula CD-105
conti nuousl y.
Hair Care Products 327
Moisturizing Styling Spray
(Formula 90-0103M)
Thi s speci a1 l y formul ated moi s tur i z i ng spray demonstrates
superb hol di ng properti es f o r optimum sty1 i ng and s cul pti ng
ease. Thi s formul a shoul d be appl i ed t o the hai r as a f i ne mi s t
wi th a pump dispenser or aerosol spray.
SD Alcohol 40
P ropylene G1 ycol
P olycare 133
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve
Water
% Bv Weight
15.00
0.50
2. 00
82.50
Q . S .
Bl endi nn P rocedure:
gl ycol . Wi th r api d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end P ol ycare
133 water and mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form. Add SD Al cohol 40
and then bl end i n fragrance, dye and pres ervati ve.
CTFA I denti f i c at i on : Water, SD A1 coho1 40, P ol ymethacryl-
amidopropyl Trimonium Chl ori de, P ropylene Gl ycol , Fragrance,
P reservati ve, Dye.
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and sl owl y bl end i n propyl ene
Hair Conditioner/Rinse
(Formula 92-1203)
Mi ranol DM Conc 45%
A1 kamul s EGMS
Cetyl Al cohol NF
J aguar C13S
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, dyes, preservati ves
Dei oni zed Water
% bv Weight
15.0
2.5
2. 0
0.3
Q.S. t o pH 4-5
Q.S.
80.5
P rocedure:
Disperse J aguar C13S thoroughl y i n water. Adj ust pH wi th
c i t r i c aci d t o 4-5 and warm t o 70-75C, then bl end i n Alkamuls
EGMS, Mi ranol DM and cetyl al cohol . With smooth agi tati on,
cool system t o 40-45C and add compati bl e fragrance, dyes and
pres ervati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance : Opaque/pearlescent, vi scous l i qui d
pH : 5-6
% Non- Vol ati l e: 12
CTFA I denti f i cati on: Water, stearoamphoacetate, gl ycol stearate,
cetyl al cohol , guar hydroxypropyl tri moni um chl ori de, fragrance,
c i t r i c aci d, dyes, preservati ves.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
328 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray w/Permethyl 101A
I nsredi ents:
A . SD Al cohol 40, 190 proof
Gantrez ES 225
6. AMP Regular
Permethyl 101A
V i gi l an AWS
% by Weight
84.10
7. 20
0.20
8. 00
0. 50
Fragrance q . s .
Procedure:
s ol uti on i s cl ear, add AMP. Sl owl y add Permethyl and Vi gi l an.
Mai ntai n c l a r i t y and adj ust fragrance t o desi red l evel .
F ormul ati on PF-0340 suggested by Presperse, I nc.
Mi x Gantrez i nt o al cohol wi th hi gh speed agi tati on, when
Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
I nnredi ents:
A . SDA 40-2-200
Gantrez ES-225
0 . AMP Regular
Permethyl 102A
Vi gi l an AWS
% by Weiqht
83.85
7. 20
0. 20
8. 00
0.50
C . Fragrance 0.25
Procedure:
i ents i n order, mix u n t i l cl ear s ol uti on develops. Next add
fragrance as desi red.
F ormul ati on PF-0341 suggested by Presperse I nc.
Mi x A together u n t i l cl ear and uni form. S l owl y add B i ngred-
Spritz-A-Style Hair Spray
I nqredi ents:
AMP Regular
Gant rez ES-225
Crovol A-70
Crotei n ADW
Dei oni zed Water
A1 coho1 SD-40
% by Weisht
78. 19
0. 45
9. 00
1 . oo
2. 00
9. 36
Procedure:
F i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0344 suggested by Croda I nc.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus Product Formulary
Add i ngredi ents t o al cohol i n the order gi ven wi th mi xi ng.
Hair Care Products 329
Non-Lye Hair Relaxer Cream
(Formula 93-0304)
Component:
A. Dermalcare DV-4232
Mi neral O i l
P etrol atum
8. Dei oni zed Water
Chel CD*
Ammon i a ( 28%)
Thi ogl ycol i c A c i d
C . P reservati ve, Dye
% BY Weiqht
10.0
10. 0
7.5
55.1
0. 2
8. 4
8. 8
q. s.
Bl endi nq Procedure:
Heat A t o 85C, B t o 45C. Wi th agi tati on, add 8 t o A.
Continue agi tati on u n t i l uni form and cool t o 35C, then add C .
Adj ust pH t o 9. 0 wi th ammonia, as needed.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance: Opaque, vi scous cream
% Nonvol ati l e: 30-35
CTFA I denti f i c ati on:
Water, Mi neral O i l , P etrol atum, Cetearyl Al cohol (and) P ol y-
sorbate 60, T hi ogl ycol i c Acid, Ammonia, Chel ati ng Agent, P reserv-
ati ve, Dye(s).
*Chel CD (Cyclohexane Diamine Tetraaceti c Aci d)
Clear Gel Hair Pomade
(Formula 92-0228)
Step A :
Proto-Lan 8
Mi r as i l PTM
P rovol 50
L antrol
Co-Gel1 A-2
Kaydol Mi neral O i l
Step 8:
Co-Gel1 8270
Fragrance
% BY Weight
0. 8
0. 5
1. 0
2. 0
14.0
67. 4
14.0
0. 3
B1 endi ng Procedure:
heati ng t o 90-100C, l e t stand f o r 90 mi nutes. Cool t o 75C, then
add Fragrance w i t h slow mi xi ng and l e t stand f or 30 minutes.
Package and cool .
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Mi neral O i l , Aluminum I sostearate, Laurate,
P al mi tate, I sopropyl P al mi tate and Fragrance.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Heat Step A t o 77-8OC wi th agi tati on. Add Step B and conti nue
330 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Professional Care Intensive Conditioner
Ammonyx 4 (Stearal koni um Chl ori de)
Dei oni zed Water
C ati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti des
Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrol yzed Kerati n)
C-Base (Mi neral O i l and PEG-30 L anol i n and Cetyl
A1 coho1 )
P etrol atum
I sopropyl Myri s tate
S tearyl Alcohol-70%
C . Fragrance
P rocedure:
1) Heat phases A & 0 separatel y t o 75C.
2) Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 75C. Mi x.
3) Mi x and cool t o 35C.
P reservati ves
%w/w
6.00
83.20
2.00
1 . oo
5.00
0.50
1 .oo
1. 00
0.30
4, s.
P roperti es:
Thi s i ntens i ve condi ti oni ng treatment u t i l i z e s the ti me-
proven s of teni ng benef i ts of Stearal koni um Chl ori de al ong wi th
the moi s turi z ati on and body bui l di ng benef i ts of protei ns .
Kera-Tein 1000 i s deri ved from hai r whi l e Cati oni c Collagen P ol y-
pepti de i s a cati oni c, hi gh mol ecul ar wei ght col l agen. The
combi nati on o f these two protei ns provi des an optimum balance o f
hai r moi sturi zi ng, s eal i ng and strengtheni ng. C-Base i s the
basi s f o r the emul s i f i cati on system.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #HC-505
Cream Hair Conditioner
A. Ol eyl Al cohol
Cetyl Al cohol
Mackester EGMS
BHA
0 . Mackalene 316
Paragon I 1
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei sht ,%
10. 0
2. 5
3. 0
0.1
25. 0
100.0
q . s .
P rocedure:
1 . Heat par t A t o 70C.
2. Add Mackalene 316 t o water and heat t o 70C.
3. Add A and 0 and wi th conti nuous bl endi ng cool t o 45C.
4 . Add remai ni ng components and cool .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Hair Care Products 331
Professional Treatment Conditioner
(Formula 6-0907M)
Mi racare CT-100 i s a f l aked condi ti oner concentrate s peci al l y
formul ated t o produce hi gh performance hai r care products. Based
on a unique condi ti oni ng agent, Cetrimonium Bromide, Mi racare
CT-100 readi l y di sperses i n 75-8OC water t o form el egant creme
ri ns e products which gentl y condi ti on the hai r l eavi ng it s of t
and manageable. The di s t i nc t f eel i mparted on the hai r by
Mi racare CT-100 makes i t a f avor i te of professi onal beauti ci ans.
Cetyl Al cohol NF
M i racare CT-100
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve
Water
% by Weiaht
1 .o
4.0
Q.S.
95. 0
Bl endi na Procedure:
Warm water t o 75-8OC. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n
Mi racare CT-100 fol l owed by the Cetyl Al cohol NF. Mix unt i l
compl etel y uni form. Cool t o 40C wi th smooth agi tati on and bl end
i n compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Appearance Af ter 24 Hrs. : Viscous, Opaque L oti on
% Non Vol ati l es : 4-6
pH (10% Aq. ): 3-5
Typical Formulation Properties:
CTFA I denti f i cati on: Water, S tearyl Al cohol , Cetrimonium
Bromide, Cetyl Al cohol , Fragrance, P reservati ve, Dye(s).
"Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner
(Formula 88-0806)
Rhodaquat M2420/99
Cetyl Al cohol NF
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye(s),
Water
P reservat i ve
% by Weiqht
0. 80
4.00
0.20
95.00
Q . S .
Bl endi nq Procedure:
Di ssol ve C i t r i c Aci d i n water and heat t o 70-75C. With smooth
agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Rhodaquat M242B/99 fol l owed by Cetyl
Al cohol NF. Mix unt i l compl etel y uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on,
cool system t o 40-45C and bl end i n compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s),
and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance Af ter 24 Hours: Viscous, Opaque L oti on
Vi s cos i ty Af ter 24 Hours (25C): 5,000-8,000 cps (No. 4 @ 10 RPM)
CTFA I denti f i cati on: Water, Cetyl Al cohol , Cetrimonium Bromide,
C i t r i c Acid, Fragrance, P reservati ve, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants 8, S peci al ti es : Formulas
pH : 2.2-3.2
332 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protein & Lanolin Hot Oil Treatment
Dei oni zed Water
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic N55 (Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
Quat-Pro S30 (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxypropyl Hydrol yzed
S ol ul an L575 (PEG-75 Lanol i n)
Ammonyx 4 (Stearal koni um Chl ori de)
Fragrance
Quaternium-15
Col 1 agen)
%Jfy
40 I 50
3.00
1 . oo
50.00
5.00
0.20
0. 30
Procedure:
Heat Water and Ammonyx t o 75C. Mix u n t i l di ssol ved. Add
S ol ul an and mix u n t i l cl ear and uni form. Cool t o 50C. Add CHC N55
and Quat-Pro S30. Cool t o 40C, add fragrance and Quaternium.
P roduct w i l l opaci f y as it cool s.
P roperti es :
caused by s tyl i ng, chemical treatments and weather
Thi s P rotei n & L anol i n enri ched formul a i s heat ac
condi ti on and then ri ns e cl ean. Quat-Pro S i s par t
attracted t o the most damaged areas o f the hai r .
Di recti ons:
A Hot O i l treatment which r evi tal i z es hai r and
Heat oroduct i n hot tap water. Thi s w i l l cl ear
i ghts damage
exposure.
i vated t o
c ul ar l y
t. Note:
P roduct i s opaque and w i l l separate a t room temperature. Wet
hai r and massage i n f o r one mi nute. Rinse hai r wi th warm water.
Shampoo and dry hai r as usual .
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #HC-801
Pump Type Hair Spray
Resyn 26-1 31 4
Mackpro Condi ti oner*
Dei oni zed Water
Ethanol , Fragrance q s t o
P rocedure:
1. Di ssol ve Resyn 26-1314 i n al cohol .
2. Add remai ni ng components and bl end u n t i l cl ear.
*Based on 100% concentrati on.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Weight,%
6.0
0. 3
7. 6
100.0
Hair Care Products 333
Pump Hair Spray
Al cohol SD 40-A 80 I OO%
Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacryl ate 3.50
Ami nomethyl Propanol 0.61
P ecosi l SWP-83 (Hydrol yzed Wheat P rotei n/Di methi cone
Copolyol Phosphate Copolymer) 0.10
Phoenamid LD (Lauramide DEA) 0. 10
Fragrance 0. 20
Procedure:
S pri nkl e the Amphomer i nt o the al cohol under propel l er
agi tati on. When the Amphomer i s compl etel y di ssol ved, add the
remai ni ng i tems wi th conti nuous propel l er agi tati on.
Formula 14-63-A
Copolymer (Amphomer)
Dei oni zed Water 15.49
Hair Styling Gel
Dei oni zed Water
Carbomer 940
- 8 Dei oni zed Water
- C Vinylcaprolactam/PVP/D
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Copolymer
- D S i l i cone Quaternium-5
- E Methyl chl oroi sothi azol
t h i azo1 i none
85 * 95%
1 . oo
3. 00
1. 00
methyl ami noethyl methacryl ate 7. 50
P ecosi l SMQ-40) 1.50
none (and) Methyl i so- 0. 05
Procedure:
i s obtai ned, add Phase B t o Phase 4. S l owl y sweep i n Phase C,
Phase and Phase E u n t i l a uni form gel i s obtai ned.
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Di sperse Carbomer i n Phase A water. When a uni form di spersi on
334 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Hair Spray
I nnredi ents:
Amphomer
Pecosi 1 SWP-83
Phoenamid LD
Deionized water
Fragrance
Al cohol SD 40-A
AMP-95
% by Weight
80. 00
3. 50
0.61
0. 10
0.10
15.49
0- 20
Procedure:
S pri nkl e the Amphomer i nt o the al cohol under propel l er
agi tati on. When the Amphomer i s compl etel y di ssol ved, add the
remai ni ng i tems i n order wi th conti nuous propel l er agi tati on.
Formul at i on PF-0320
Aerosol Spray
Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol abs.
Propane/butane
Perfume o i l
% by Weight
2. 00
0. 25
47.75
50. 00
q . s .
Procedure:
P lace ethanol , AMP Regular and perfume o i l i n the s t i r r e r
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved. F i l l i nt o
contai ners.
Cloud poi nt: S t i l l cl ear a t -35C
P ressure: 3. 6 bar
Densi t y : 0.6548
F ormul ati on PF-0327 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 335
I naredi ents:
Advantage V Resin
SD Al cohol 40
D i s t i 11 ed Water
P1 as ti c i zer
Fragrance, etc.
AMP-95
I ngredi ents:
Advantage V Resin
SD Al cohol 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
P1 as ti c i zer
Fragrance, etc.
AMP-95
Pump Hair Spray
Regular Hold
% bv W t
8. 00
0. 25
76.00
15.75
q . s .
Q . S .
Pump Hair Spray
Super Hold
96 by W t
12.00
0. 37
74.00
13.63
q . s .
q . s .
Pump Hair Spray
Maximum Hold
I nnredi ent s :
Advantage V Resin
AMP-95
SD Al cohol 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
P l as ti c i z er
Fragrance, etc.
F ormul ati ons PF-0263 suggested by I S P
Pump Hair Spray
Regular Hold
I naredi ents:
Advantage CP Resin
Dimethicone Copolymer
Ethanol (19OP)
Fragrance
AMP-95
Pump Hair Spray
Super Hold
I nnredi ents:
Advantage CP Resin
Dimethicone Copolymer
Ethanol (19OP)
Fragrance
AMP-95
F ormul ati ons PF-0265 suggested by ISP
% by W t
14.00
0.43
73.00
12.57
9 , s .
q . s .
% bv W t
8.00
0.12
0.20
91 -68
a . s .
% by W t
12.00
0. 19
0.20
87.61
q . s .
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
336 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Setting Conditioning Mousse
Appl i cabl e t o wet hai r , normal hol d, l i g h t condi ti oni ng
ef f ect, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones.
I neredi ents :
Luvimer 100 P
Cremophor A 25
Luvi quat Mono CP
Perfume
P reservat i ve
Water
Procedure:
F ormul ati on PF-0307 from BASF
AMP-95
Combine a l l i ngredi ents and mix u n t i l
% by Weiaht
3.00
0.69
0.20
0. 50
q . s .
4, s .
95.61
homogeneous
Setting Lotion
Appl i cabl e t o wet hai r , s trong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones.
I nnredi ents: % by Weiaht
Luvimer 100 P 6. 00
AMP-95 1. 39
Water 60.00
Ethanol 32.61
Perfume 9 , s .
P rocedure:
s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
F ormul ati on PF-0308 from BASF
Combine Ethanol , AMP-95 and perfume. Add Luvimer 100 P t o the
80% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray
I nqredi ents: % by Weiaht
Water 6.84
Ethanol 40.00
AMP-95 0. 56
Acudyne 255 (41% s ol i ds ) 12.50
Di methyl ether (DME) 40.00
Dow Corni ng 190 F l ui d 0.10
P rocedure:
s t i r r i ng. Mix u n t i l s ol uti on i s s l i ght l y turbi d, but acti ves are
di spersed. Charge DME. The mi xture i mmedi atel y turns cl ear.
P ropert i es :
F ormul ati on PF-0314 suggested by Rohm and Haas
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Mi x water, ethanol , AMP-95 and pl as ti c i z er . Add polymer wi th
Cloud P oi nt: (-22F
Vapor P ressure: 42 ps i g @ 70F
Hair Care Products 337
Pump Spray
Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
AMP Regular
Ethanol abs.
Perfume o i l
% by Weight
3.00
0.60
96.40
q. s
Procedure:
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved, then f i l l
i nto contai ners.
F ormul ati on PF-0332 suggested by BASF
P lace ethanol , AMP Regular and perfume o i l i n the mi xi ng
Pump Spray
Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
Water, d i s t i l l e d
Ethanol abs.
Perfume o i l
AMP-95
% by Weiqht
5 . 0 0
0. 80
10. 00
84.20
4. s .
Procedure:
P lace ethanol , AMP-95, water and perfume o i l i n the mi xi ng
vessel , add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved. F i l l i nt o
contai ners.
F ormul ati on PF-0333 suggested by BASF
Setting Foam
Firm dense foam for a normal hold.
I ngredi ents:
Ul trahol d Strong
Cremophor A 25
Perfume o i l t Cremophor RH 40 (1: 3)
Water, d i s t i l l e d
Propane/butane
AMP-95
% by Weight
2.00
0.35
0. 20
0. 40
87.05
10. 00
Procedure:
vessel . Add Ul trahol d Strong and s t i r u n t i l di ssol ved. F i l l i nt o
contai ners.
F ormul ati on PF-0334 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus Product Formulary
P lace ethanol , AMP-95, Cremophor A 25 and water i n the s t i r r e r
338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Setting Conditioning Mousse
Alcohol Free
I ngredi ents:
Resyn 28-2913
Crotei n SPO
DC-1932 S urfactant
Tween 20
Monamid 150 ADD
T r i ton X-100
Dei oni zed Water
Fragrance
P reservati ve
P ropel 1 ant
AMP-95
% bv Wei aht
3. 50
0.38
0. 05
0.10
0. 20
0.20
0.30
85.27
q . s .
9,s.
10.00
Procedure:
i ng good agi tati on. When s ol uti on i s complete, add remai ni ng
i ngredi ents i n the concentrate. F i l t e r and fi l l concentrate
when uni form. Charge propel l ant.
F ormul ati on PF-0177 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical
Mix AMP-95 i n water. Add Resyn 28-2913 sl owl y whi l e mai ntai n-
Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse
I nsredi ents/ Trade Name: % by Weiqht
P art A:
Octylacrylamide/acrylates butyl ami noethyl methacryl ate
copolymer (Amphomer)
AMP-95
Amodimethicone (and) nonoxynol-10 (and) tal l owtri moni um
Li nol eami dopropyl PG dimonium chl ori de phosphate
SD Al cohol 3A
Water
P art 8:
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e
Water
P art C :
P ropel 1 ant
Procedure:
chl ori de
(Phosphol i pi d EFA)
3. 75
0.60
0.40
0. 60
10.00
37.35
0.30
37.00
10.00
P repare A and B separatel y. To prepare B , c ar ef ul l y s pri nkl e
hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e i nt o water wi th good agi tati on. Heat may
be appl i ed t o hel p s ol ubi l i z ati on. Bl end B i n A, pressuri ze wi th
n
L .
F ormul ati on PF-0180 suggested by Mona I ndus tri es
SOURCE: Anpus Chemical Co . : Angus product Formulary
Hair Care Products 339
I ngredi ents :
Resyn 28-2913
Crotei n SPO
DC-1932 S urfactant
Tween 20
Monamid 150 ADD
Gl yceri ne
T r i ton A- 100
Anhydrous Ethanol
Dei oni zed Water
Fragrance
P reservati ve
P ropel l ant
AMP-95
Setting Conditioning Mousse
Aqueous-Alcoholic
% by Wei aht
3. 00
0.33
0.10
0. 10
0. 20
0.20
0. 10
0. 50
20.00
65.47
q . s .
q . s .
10.00
Procedure:
Mix AMP-95 i n water. Add Resyn 28-2913 sl owl y whi l e mai ntai n-
i ng good agi tati on. When s ol uti on i s complete, add remai ni ng
i ngredi ents i n the concentrate. F i l t e r and f i l l concentrate when
uni form. Charge propel l ant.
F ormul ati on PF-0176 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical
Styling Mousse
I ngredi ents:
Gantrez ES-225
Anhydrous ethanol
Dow Corni ng 193
Water
Perfume, preservati ve
P ropel l ant S-46
AMP-95
% by Weight
0. 20
5.00
10.00
0.50
74.30
10. 00
q . s .
Procedure:
Add AMP-95 t o anhydrous ethanol , then s t
I n a separate contai ner add Dow Corni ng 193
mi xture contai ni ng Gantrez ES-225 i nt o the
ES-225.
r the
ng Dow
Corni ng 193. Add perfume and preservati ve. Charge concentrate
(90% by wei ght) i nt o can and pressuri ze wi th propel l ant A-46
(10% by wei ght).
r i n Gantrez
t o water. S t
ater contai n
F ormul ati on PF-0175 suggested by I S P
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
340 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Setting Lotion, Clear, In Gel Form
%w/w
Nasuna B*) 4. 0
Carbopol 940 0. 7
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol 50.1
Tri ethanol ami ne 1 .o
Water 44.2
P reparati on: Nasuna i s di ssol ved i n al cohol , water is added and
Carbopol 940 is then s t i r r ed i n. When Carbopol 940 i s uni f orml y
dispersed, the s ol uti on i s neutral i z ed wi th tri ethanol ami ne
and then oerfumed.
Formula NO
I E thyl /
Nasuna
I I Water
1 1 1 Carbop
I V Water
WB11-01
Setting Lotion, Clear, In Gel Form
sopropyl al cohol
B *)
1 940
T r i ethanol ami ne
Formula No. WBll-03
Setting Lotion, Clear, Liquid
Nasuna B *)
E thyl / i sopropyl al cohol
Dehyquart A
Water
Formula No. WB 51-02
Setting Lotion, Clear, Liquid
Luviskol VA 64
Dehyquart C cr ys t.
Water
Formula No. WB51-04
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear
Nasuna B *)
Dehyquart SP
E thyl / i s opropyl al cohol
Water
Formula No. WB51-05
Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear
Nasuna B *)
P ol yquart HB1
Water
Formula No. WB51-06
Note: *)The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West Germany.
Various PVP/VA types on the market can be ref erred t o .
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
45.0
3. 0
45.2
0.8
5. 0
1 . o
1.5
50.0
0. 5
48.0
%w/w
2. 0
0. 1
97. 9
%w/w
2.00
0.25
50. 00
47.75
%w/w
2. 0
2. 0
96.0
Hair Care Products 341
Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed
I Lanette 0
Eumulgin 81
C eti ol V
I1 Dehyquart C cr ys t.
Luvi skol VA 64
Water
Note: F i l l i ng: 92 parts emulsion
8 par ts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foam nozzl e
Shake aerosol before use!
Formula No. WB71-01
Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed
Nasuna B *)
Dehyquart SP
C eti ol HE
Water
Note: F i l l i ng: 92 parts s ol uti on
8 par ts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foam nozzl e
Shake aerosol before use!
Formula No. WB71-03
Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed
Nasuna B *)
P ol yquart H
Water
Note: F i l l i ng: 92 parts product
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Foam nozzl e
Shake aerosol before use!
Formula No. WB71-04
?b&&
1.5
1.5
3. 0
0. 1
4.0
89. 9
%w/w
2. 0
0. 6
1 . o
96.4
%w/w
2.0
2. 0
96.0
Setting Lotion, Extra Strong, Aerosol-Packed
%w/w
Nasuna 8 *) 8. 0
Eumulgin Rb 40
Comperl an COD
Ethanol
Water
Note: F i l l i ng: 92 parts product
Valve: Verti cal val ve and foam nozzl e
Formula No. WB 71-06
8 parts propel l ant, F ri gen 12
0.2
0. 2
10. 0
81 . 6
Note:
*) The Nasuna types are not f o r s al e i n West Germany. Various
PVP/VA types on the market can be ref erred to.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
342 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Setting Mousse
Appl i cabl e t o wet hai r, strong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones.
I nqredi ents: % bv Weight
Luvimer 100 P 5. 00
AMP-95 1.16
Cremophor A 25 0.20
Perfume q. s.
Water 83.64
P reservati ve q. s .
Propane/Butane 10.00
Procedure:
Formul a t i on PF-0304 from BASF
Combine a1 1 i ngredi ents and mix unti 1 homogeneous.
Setting Conditioning Mousse
Appl i cabl e t o wet hai r, strong hol d, f o r condi ti oni ng ef f ec t,
improves the wet combabi l i ty, gi ves body t o the hai r, prevents
"f 1 yaway" ef f ec t .
I nqredi ents: % by Weight
Luvimer 100 P 3.00
AMP-95 0.69
Luvi quat FC370 2.50
Cremophor A 25 0. 20
Luvi quat Mono CP 0.50
Perfume/Cremophor RD 40 1: 3 9, s .
P reservat i ve q. s.
Water 83.11
Propane/Butane 10.00
P rocedure:
F ormul ati on PF-0306 from BASF
Combine a l l i ngredi ents and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
Pump Setting Mousse
Appl i cabl e t o wet hai r, normal hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones.
I ngredi ents: % bv Weight
Luvimer 100 P 3.00
AMP-95 0. 69
Perfume q. s .
P reservat i ve q. s .
Water 96.11
Procedure:
F ormul ati on PF-0305 from BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co . : Angus P roduct Formulary
Combi ne a1 1 i ngredi ents and mi x unti 1 homogeneous.
Hair Care Products 343
Shine N' Set--Styling & Moisturizing Spray
PVP
Gafquat 755N (P ol yquaterni um 11)
Barquat CT-429 (Cetrimonium Chl ori de)
Quat-Pro E (Tri ethoni um Hydrolyzed Col l agen E thosul fate)
Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrolyzed K erati n P rotei n)
G1 yceri n
P ropylene Gl ycol
Glydant (DMDM Hydantoin)
Aqua-Tein S (Acetamide MEA (and) MEA-Hydrolyzed S i l k
(and) P ropylene Gl ycol )
Dei oni zed Water
Fragrance
Tween 20
%w/w
1 . oo
3.00
1 . oo
3. 00
0.50
10.00
10.00
0.20
0 I 50
69.30
9 , s .
1. 50
Procedure:
Di ssol ve the PVP i n hot water. Add the r es t o f the i ngred-
i ents , except fragrance and Tween. P re- di ssol ve the fragrance
i n the Tween, and add t o the batch below 40C.
P ropert i es :
resi ns, combing ai ds and hai r softeni ng and s hi ni ng agents.
I n addi ti on, Quat-Pro E serves t o moi sturi ze and bui l d body
i n the hai r . The c ati oni c nature and f i l m formi ng properti es
o f t h i s substanti ve protei n w i l l protect the hai r . Kera-Tein
1000 and Aqua-Tein S w i l l condi ti on and add hi ghl i ghts . I n
addi ti on, Aqua-Tein S w i l l penetrate the hai r c ut i c l e t o br i ng
moi sture t o where i t i s needed most. Note: Thi s system i s s ui t-
abl e f o r di spensi ng from a Mi s tette pump.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #HE-1902
Thi s formul a contai ns an ef f ec ti ve combi nati on o f s tyl i ng
344 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Silk and Soy Styling/Blow Drying Conditioner
%w/w
A . Flexan 130 (Sodium P ol ystrene S ul f ate) 2.00
Soy-Tei n NL (Hydrol yzed Soy P rotei n) 2.00
S i 1 k Pro-Tei n (Hydrolyzed S i 1 k) 0. 50
Dei oni zed Water 89.70
Glydant (DMDM Hydantion) 0.30
B. Methyl Paraben 0.20
dl -Pantheno1 0.10
I sopropyl Al cohol 5.00
Fragrance q. s.
Tween 20 (P ol ysorbate 20) 0.20
Procedure:
P roperti es:
and beauti f y the hai r . Flexan 130, a hi gh mol ecul ar wei ght
polymer, i s the pri mary s etti ng agent. I t s use l evel can be
vari ed depending on the control desi red. F i l ms are hard and
moi sture res i s tant yet water sol ubl e. Excel l ent wet combing
and a natural , gl ossy l ook are an added benef i t o f usi ng t h i s
product.
Formula #HF-1201
Mix Phase A and B separatel y. Add Phase B t o Phase A. Mi x.
I n t h i s formul a, natural S i l k and Soy protei ns moi sturi ze
Moisturizing Styling Spray
%w/w
A. Al cohol SDA-40 15.00
PVP/VA E-535 (PVP/VA Copolymer)
L antrol AWS 1692 (PPG-12 PEG-65 L anol i n O i l )
Fragrance
4.00
2.00
0. 10
B. Dei oni zed Water 61 .60
Kera-Tein 1000 AS (E thyl E ster o f Hydrolyzed Kerati n) 3.00
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Aci ds (and) Acetamide
MEA (and) P ropylene G1 ycol ) 3.00
Cet ri moni um Chl o r i de 1 . oo
DMDM Hydantoin 0. 30
Pre-mix Phase A and Phase B separatel y. Mix the two phases
G1 yceri n 10. 00
P rocedure:
together.
P roperti es:
Thi s s tyl i ng spray has been designed t o provi de softness
al ong w i t h s uf f i c i ent sty1 i ng and bodyi ng characteri s t i cs t o
achi eve the "Modern Upswept Look". Shine and moi s tur i z ati on are
provi ded by the Aqua-Tein C, Kera-Tein 1000 AS and gl yceri n.
I mproved body and f l exi bi 1 i t y wi 11 al s o r es ul t. Aqua-Tein C
penetrates t o where i t s needed most, r es ul ti ng i n an improved
condi ti on o f the hai r .
Formula #HE-1903
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Hair Care Products 345
Silky Soft Conditioner for Bodied Hair
Dei oni zed Water
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic N-55 (Hydrolyzed
Carsoquat SDO-85 (S tearal koni um Chl ori de)
Polquaternium-11
Panthenol
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxy E thyl Hydrolyzed
S i 1 k Pro-Tei n (Hydrolyzed S i 1 k)
Laneth- I 5
Cetyl Al cohol
C ol l agen)
Col l agen)
C. P roto-Lan 8*
Fragrance
Col or
%w/w
78.00
6.00
4.00
0 -40
0.10
0.20
0.10
0.50
0.50
2.50
7.00
0.50
0.20
q . s .
*( L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrol yzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosi ne (and) Sesame O i l (and)
L anol i n Al cohol )
Procedure:
Heat Phase A and B separatel y t o 80C. Add A t o 8 at 8OC.
Mix and cool t o 60C. Add the P roto-Lan 8. Mix and cool t o 50C.
Add the fragrance. Mix t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es :
P rovi des maximum condi ti oni ng f or damaged, dry hai r . Contai ns
substanti ve s i l k and col l agen protei ns t o smooth and protect the
hai r s haf t. Proto-Lan 8 adds essenti al f a t t y aci ds phosphol i pi ds
and l i po- protei ns t o repl eni sh and rej uvenate the hai r . I mproves
texture, bodi es the hai r . Good wet and dry combing.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : F ormul ati on #HC-502
Spray Leave-On Conditioner
Mackpro Condi ti oner*
Mackalene 426
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Procedure:
1. Add components t o water.
2 . Heat t o 40C and bl end unt
*Based on 100% concentrat
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. :
on.
1 cl ear.
Suggested F ormul ati on
Weiqht,%
0.5
3. 0
qs
100. 0
346 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Simply Hair
%w/w
A. Dei oni zed Water 90.00
Col 1 agen) 3. 00
Gafquat HS-100 (P olyquaternium-28) 1 . oo
B. Gl yceryl S tearate SE 1. 00
Maywax D (Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Ceteareth-20) 5. 00
C . Fragrance, preservati ves q. s .
Procedure:
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic N55 (Hydrol yzed
Heat Phases A&B t o 8OC. Add B t o A. Mix and cool t o 40C.
Add C .
P roperti es:
properti es . Ai ds i n combing. Adds body, manageabi l i ty and i m-
proves the condi ti on o f the hai r . The col l agen protei n can be
s ubs ti tuted wi th other protei ns such as kerati n, wheat, soy or
quaternari es depending on market targeted.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HC-509
A si mpl e, easy-to-make hai r condi ti oner wi th good al l - around
Styling Mousse
P VP /VA E335
SDA 40 Al cohol
Mackpro Condi ti oner*
Dei oni zed Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o
P rocedure:
1. Combine components and bl end unti 1 cl ear.
2. P ressuri ze wi th sui tab1 e propel 1 ant.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
*Based on 100% concentrati on.
Weight ,%
4. 5
1. 5
1 . o
100. 0
Hair Care Products 347
Simply Wheat Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
I nqredi ents :
P art A:
Resyn 29-2930
P rocetyl 10 (PPG-10 Cetyl E ther)
AMP Regular (Amino Methyl P ropanol)
Al cohol SD-40
P art 8:
Dei oni zed Water
Crotei n ADW (AMP I s os tearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat P rote
P rocedure:
Add the AMP o f P art A t o the al cohol wi th mi xi ng
uniform, add the Resyn 28-2930 wi th mi xi ng. When un
P rocetyl 10. Separatel y mix the i ngredi ents o f P art
add t o P art A wi th mi xi ng.
F ormul ati on PF-0201 suggested by Croda
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation
Extra Hold
% bv Weight
60.0
3. 0
0. 8
0. 4
I nnredi ent s :
Gantrez V-225 Resin
SD Al cohol 40
D i s t i 11 ed Water
P ropel 1 ant A-1 7
Dimethyl Ether P ropel l ant
P l as ti ci z er
Fragrance
AMP-95
35.6
n) 0.2
When
form, add
B, then
% bv Weight
7.00
0.32
46.50
16.18
9.00
21 .oo
q . s .
q . s .
F ormul ati on PF-0202 suggested by I nternati onal S peci al ty P roducts
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation
Super Hold
I nqredi ents :
Gantrez V-425 Resin
SD Al cohol 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
P ropel 1 ant A-1 7
Dimethyl Ether P ropel l ant
P l as ti ci z er
Fragrance
AMP-95
% bv Weight
8.00
0. 32
46.00
15.68
9.00
21 .oo
q . s
q . s
F ormul ati on PF-0203 suggested by I nternati onal S peci al ty P roducts
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
348 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Smooth and Shine Keratin Hair Conditioner
A. Mi neral O i l , L i ght
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Maywax P (E mul si fyi ng Wax, NF)
Gl yceryl Monostearate, Pure
%w/w
5. 00
1.00
12.00
0. 50
8. PEG-40 S tearate 0. 30
Panthenol 0. 30
Li po- P epti de AME-30 (Acetamide MEA and Lauroyl
Hydrol yzed Col l agen and Gl yceri n) 3.00
Methyl Paraben 0. 20
Ammonyx 4 (Stearal koni um Chl ori de) 1 . oo
Dei oni zed Water 75.60
Kera-Tein 1000 SD (Hydrolyzed Kerati n) 0.50
C . Quaternium-15
Fragrance
0. 20
0. 20
Procedure:
Mix and cool t o 50C. Add Phase C .
P roperti es:
A l eave- i n hai r condi ti oner which gi ves the hai r a s i l k- s of t
and l uxuri ous f eel . E xcel l ent combing ai d. Massage a smal l amount
i nt o the hai r and es peci al l y i nt o damaged ends.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #HC-512
Mix and heat Phase A and B separatel y t o 80C. Add B t o A.
Pearly Lotion Conditioner
Mackalene 316
PEG 400 Di stearate
Sodi urn Sul f ate
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei ght, 96
7. 0
0. 5
0.5
2. 0
q . s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add f i r s t f our components t o water and heat t o 65C.
2. Wi th mi l d agi tati on cool t o 50C. and add remai ni ng components.
3. Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Hair Care Products 349
Soy Hydrating Hair Therape
% *
A. Dei oni zed Water 91.30
Natrosol 250HR (Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose) 0.50
B. Soy-Tein NL (Hydrol yzed Soy P rotei n)
Carsoquat CT 429 (Cetrimonium Chl ori de)
3.00
2.00
C . Soy-Quat C (Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Soy P rotei n) 1 . oo
Acetyl ated Lanol i n Al cohol ) 2. 00
Fragrance 0. 20
P reservati ve q . s .
S ol ul an 98 (P ol ysorbate 80 and Cetyl Acetate and
Procedure:
Heat water and Natrosol t o 70C. Mix and cool u n t i l product
i s thi ckened and cl ear. Add phase B. Mi xture w i l l haze s l i ght l y.
Pre-mix phase C and add t o batch. Thi s w i l l cl ear the product.
P roperti es :
damaged hai r.
Usage:
ooing, no need t o ri ns e out pr i o r t o l atheri ng hai r . I f used
af ter shampooing, ri ns e shampoo out. Treat hai r . Rinse cl ear.
For added condi ti oni ng, Soy Quat C and S ol ul an 98 amounts may
be rai s ed proporti onatel y.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HE-01805
A Soy-based hai r hydrati ng and softeni ng therapy f o r badl y
May be used before or af ter shampooing. I f used before shamp-
Foaming Conditioner
Mackam 35
Mackalene 116
Mackpro Condi ti oner*
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
Weight,%
10. 0
15. 0
2. 5
0. 7
q s
100.0
Procedure:
1. Thoroughly di sperse the Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose i n water and
2. Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro condi ti oner.
3. Blend u n t i l cl ear.
4 . Add Mackstat DM, fragrance and dye.
5. Cool and f i l l .
heat t o 45C.
*Based on 100% concentrati on.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
350
A .
B.
C.
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soy Infused Hair Treatment
Panthenol
Methyl Paraben
Fragrance
P ol ysorbate 80
SD Al cohol 40A
Dowanol DPM (PPG-2 Methyl E ther)
Soy-Quat C
Dei oni zed Water
Gafquat 755N (P ol yquaterni um-1 1 )
Soy-Tei n NL (Hydro1 yzed Soy P rotei n)
Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15)
Amersi l DMC-357 (Dimethicone Copol yol )
Dow Corni ng 929 Emulsion (Amodimethicone and
Tal l owtri moni um Chl ori de and Nonoxynol-10)
(Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n)
%w/w
0.10
0. 20
0. 20
0 . 5 0
2. 00
1- 00
0.50
87.80
1 . oo
3.00
0.20
0.50
3.00
P rocedure:
r es t o f the (6) i ngredi ents wi th mi xi ng. Add Phase C (mi xture
w i l l be mi l ky. )
P roperti es :
A l eave- i n condi ti oner/ detangl er wi th vegetabl e protei ns
f or adding body and shi ne t o the hai r . Makes f i ne, l i mp hai r
f eel thi cker, more manageable. The Soy-Tein NL, a substanti ve
vegetabl e protei n, adds body and manageabi l i ty. Soy-Quat i s a
cati oni c soy deri vati ve which adds shi ne and combabi l i ty t o
t h i s product.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : F ormul ati on #HC-513
Pre-mix Phase A. Add water from Phase B t o Phase A . Add the
Mild Pearl Conditioner
Mackal ene 326
PEG 400 Di stearate
Sodium Chl ori de
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei s ht ,%
7. 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
q. s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add the f i r s t three components t o water and heat t o 65C.
2 . Wi th conti nuous s ti r r i ng, cool t o 40C. and add dye, Mackstat
3. Cool and fi l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
DM and fragrance.
Hair Care Products 351
Spray Gel
I naredi ents: Weight% F uncti on
P art A:
Carbopol 980 (1 ) (1% di spersi on) 30.00 Gel 1 i ng Agent
P art B:
Deionized Water 59.17 Di l uent
PVP/VA Copolymer (2) 8.00 Hai r S etti ng
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.12 Neutral i zer
D i sodi um EDTA 0.01 Chel ati ng Agent
P art C:
Gl yceri n 2.00 Humectant
P ol ysorbate 20 (3) 0.50 L ubri cant/
Fragrance
Methylparaben 0.20 P reservati ve
(1) Carbomer (BFGoodrich Co.)
(2) Luvi skol VA-73W (BASF)
(3) Tween 20 (I C1 Americas, I nc. ) , P rotasorb L-20 (Protameen),
Procedure:
1. Prepare 1% Carbopol 980 di spersi on i n room temperature
2. Mi x P art B i ngredi ents u n t i l a l l i ngredi ents di ssol ve.
3. Add P art B t o P art A wi th moderate agi tati on.
4. Mix P art C i ngredi ents wi th s l i ght heati ng unt i l paraben
Resin
or Ni kkol TL-10 (Ni kko)
dei oni zed water.
i s di ssol ved.
5. Add P art C t o P arts A and B.
6. Add a smal l addi ti onal amount o f
P roperti es :
pH: 5.60 t o 5. 80
Vi s cos i ty (cps) @ 25C: 4,500 t o 8
Vi s cos i ty (cps) @ 50C (day 60): 4
C l ar i tv (%TI : 92.0 t o 95.0
EA u n t i l gel i s cl ear.
000
500 t o 8,000
Spec i a 1 I k s t r uct i ons :
I n t h i s formul ati on, a PVP/VA (70:30) copolymer i n aqueous
s ol uti on i s requi red t o mai ntai n optimum c l a r i t y at up t o 4%
res i n s ol i ds . Addi ti onal l y, the best c l a r i t y w i l l be seen
when the pH i s mai ntai ned between 5.55 and 5.80. Speci al care
shoul d be taken t o not exceed t h i s pH.
Addi ti onal hol d can be obtai ned by the addi ti on of PVP K90
(BASF) at 0.5% t o P art B wi thout a reducti on o f gel c l ar i t y.
Commen t s :
Thi s cl ear gel has excel l ent pump spray qual i ty, wi th mod-
erate hol d and l i t t l e tack on hai r under humid condi ti ons.
Carbopol 980 gi ves a very cl ear gel s tructure t o suspend
a i r bubbles, yet thi ns when pumped thorugh sprayer t o gi ve a
f i ne mi s t.
Note:
1. 5 l b. precompression spri ng, WH o r i f i c e (Calmar, I nc. )
SOURCE: BF Goodr i ch Co.: F ormul ati on COO40
Recommended pump sprayer i s : Calmar Mark I V hi gh pressure,
352 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Styling Gel with Shellac
I naredi ents: % by Weight
A Carbopol 1382 1.00
Demi neral i zed water 52.30
Phenoni p 0.50
8 T r i s Amino 1. 20
C Ethanol 42.00
Shel l ac Wax MHPlO5 DO 3.00
Procedure:
Di sperse Carbopol 1382 i n demi neral i zed water contai ni ng
Phenonip, accordi ng t o the procedure suggested by BF Goodrich
(430-1). Carbopol 1382 can al s o be di spersed usi ng a rotor-
s tator a t hi gh turbul ence. F oam'formati on may then occur; t h i s
foam can be el i mi nated usi ng a smal l amount o f a strong i norgani c
aci d (20 ppm) .
obtai ned, 50% o f the Ethanol i s added t o obtai n a hydro- al cohol i c
gel o f Carbopol 1382.
S hel l ac i s di ssol ved i n the remainder Ethanol . When the
s hel l ac i s compl etel y di ssol ved, the s ol uti on i s gradual l y added
t o the hydro- al cohol i c gel whi l e gentl y s t i r r i n g wi th an anchor
mi xer.
To remove most o f the entrapped a i r , the gel i s sl owl y s t i r r e d
f or 30 minutes. F i nal l y the hydro- al cohol i c S hel l ac gel i s trans-
f erred t o a s ui tabl e bottl e.
I mportant Note: Attenti on needs t o be gi ven t o the S hel l ac s ol -
uti on; the speed o f di s s ol uti on i s l ow. The S hel l ac s ol uti on i s
best prepared whi l e boi l i ng S hel l ac under r ef l ux wi th Ethanol ,
or t o di s s ol ve S hel l ac i n Ethanol and t o age the s ol uti on over-
ni ght.
F ormul ati on PF-0337 suggested by BF Goodrich
Neutral i z e wi th T r i s Amino. As soon as a cl ear gel i s
High Solids 55% VOC Pump Spray
I ngredi ents: % bv Weight
Lovocryl 47 8- 00
AMP-95 1.38
C i trof l ex- 2 0.22
Monamid 716 0.20
Anhydrous Ethanol , SDA-40 55.00
Dei oni zed Water 35.20
Fragrance q . s .
P reservati ve q . s .
Procedure:
Di ssol ve AMP-95 i n water and ethanol . Whi l e mai ntai ni ng good
agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t i n Lovocryl 4 7 . When di ssol ved, add
remai ni ng i ngredi ents and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
Valve: Seaquist EuroMist I 1 160 output wi th a 0.016'' x 0.010''
F ormul ati on PF-0267 suggested by Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Shallow actuator.
Hair Care Products 353
Styling Mousse
Eastman AQ 555 water- di spersi bl e pol yester i s the f i xat i ve
i n these condi ti oni ng mousse formul as. Eastman AQ 55s polymer
of f er s excel l ent c ur l retenti on, humi di ty resi stance, and sheen
f or hai r . Myvatex Texture L i t e emul s i f i er and Myvatex 60
emul s i f i er provi de a s tabl e hai r condi ti oni ng base f o r both
hydroal cohol i c and al cohol - f ree formul as. Level s o f Eastman
AQ 55s and Myvatex Texture L i t e can be adj usted t o modi fy l evel s
o f hol d and condi ti oni ng. These mi l d, noni oni c, soap-free
formulas are s ui tabl e f or a l l hai r types.
Formulation X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic)
Concentrate: %w/W
Di s t i l l e d water q.s.* t o 100
Eastman AQ 55s polymer 8. 0
Myvatex Texture L i t e emul s i f i er 2.0
Monamid 150 ADD 1 . o
Myvatex 60 emul s i f i er 0. 3
SDA-40C al cohol 20.0
Fragrance q . s . *
C i t r i c aci d q . s . *
Procedure:
1. Heat Eastman AQ 555 and water t o 80-85C wi th mi xi ng u n t i l the
2. Cool t o room temperature.
3. Sl owl y add Myvatex Texture L i t e wi th high-speed agi tati on.
4. When uni form, add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD.
5. Sl owl y add SDA-40C al cohol .
6. Add fragrance.
7. Adj ust pH t o 6.5-7.0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
8. Aerosol f i nal concentrate a t 5.23 g/mL o f A46 propel l ant
(Aeropress).
*q. s. =quanti ty s uf f i c i ent
polymer i s compl etel y di spersed i n the water.
Care shoul d be taken when mi xi ng t o avoi d aerati on.
Formulation X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)
Concentrate: %w/w
Di s t i l l e d water q . s . * t o 100
Eastman AQ 555 polymer 8.0
Myvatex Texture L i t e emul s i f i er 5. 5
Monamid 150 ADO 1 . o
Myvatex 60 emul s i f i er 0. 3
P reservati ve q . s . *
Fragrance q . s . *
C i t r i c aci d q . s . *
Procedure:
1. Heat Eastman AQ 55s and water t o 80-85C wi th mi xi ng unt i l the
2. Cool t o room temperature and add preservati ve.
3. Sl owl y add Myvatex Texture L i t e wi th high-speed agi tati on.
4. When uni form, add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD.
5. Add fragrance. 6. Adj ust pH t o 6. 5- 7. 0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
6. Aerosol f i nal concentrate a t 5.23 g/mL o f A46 propel l ant
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
*q. s. =quanti t y s uf f i c i ent
polymer i s compl etel y di spersed i n the water.
Care shoul d be taken when mi xi ng t o avoi d aerati on.
(Aeropress).
354 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Super-Hold Hair Spray
I nqredi ent s :
SDA 40 Al cohol (190 P roof)
Stepanhold R-1
Deioni zed Water
Perfume
AMP-95
% by Wei nht
82.43
12.00
5.00
0. 37
0.20
P rocedure:
Di ssol ve the Stepanhold R- 1 i n al cohol and add the AMP; mix
wel l . Add the dei oni zed water and perfume; mix u n t i l the product
i s cl ear.
F ormul ati on PF-0102 suggested by Stepan Chemical Co.
Aerosol Hair Spray
I nQredi ents:
Gantrez ES-225 or ES-425
AMP-Regul ar
Arosurf 66-E2
I sopropyl Lanol ate
Fragrance
Ethanol , SDA Anhydrous
P ropel l ant
% by Weight
4.00
0. 09
0. 10
0. 05
0.10
45.66
5 0 . 0 0
P rocedure:
Di ssol ve the neutral i z er (AMP) i n the al cohol and add the
Gantrez res i n. When the res i n i s i n s ol uti on, add the remai ni ng
i ngredi ents i n the order l i s ted.
F ormul ati on PF-0103 suggested by the Sherex Chemical Co.
Hairspray
(Mechanically Actuated)
I ngredi ent s :
Resyn 18-2930
Emcol CC-9
Fragrance
Ethanol (190 proof SDA-40)
AMP-95
% by Weiaht
4.50
0. 36
0. 15
94.99
q . s .
Val ve: Calmar M-2
F ormul ati on PF-0117 suggested by Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Corp,
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 355
Ultra Rich Conditioner
(Formula 90-0303M)
Rhodaquat M270C/18
Cetyl Al cohol NF
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
J aguar HP-60
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
Water
% bv Weight
3.50
1 .so
1- 00
0.80
P . S .
Q . S .
93.20
Bl endi na P rocedure: Disperse J aguar HP-60 i n water and mix u n t i l
uni form. Warm water system t o 70-7532 and bl end i n Rhodaquat
M270C/18, Cetyl Al cohol NF, and Alkamuls EGMS. Once system i s
uni form, adj us t formul ati on pH t o 3.5-4.5 wi th C i t r i c Aci d as
needed. Wi th smooth agi tati on, cool system t o 40-45C and bl end
i n compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s) and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance @ 25C: Opaque/Pearlescent L i qui d
pH :
3.5-4.5
% Non Vol ati l es : 4-5
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Cetyl Al cohol , Gl ycol Stearate,
Stearalkonium Chl ori de, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Fragrance, P reserva-
t i ve, C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s).
Hair Relaxer
(Formula 92-1205)
M i ranol DM Conc. (45%)
Sodi um Hydroxi de (50%)
Mi neral O i l
A1 kamul s EGDS
Cetyl Al cohol NF
Dei oni zed Water
P reservati ve, Dyes
% by Weiaht
15.0
8. 0
5. 0
3. 0
1 . o
68.0
q. s.
P rocedure: Heat a l l i ngredi ents (except sodium hydroxi de) wi th
mi xi ng t o 75C u n t i l uni form. Continue mi xi ng and cool t o 45C,
then add sodium hydroxi de. Continue mi xi ng u n t i l uni form. Add
compati bl e pres ervati ve and dye.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Appearance @ 25C: Viscous, opaque l i qui d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 8,000-10,000 C ~ S
pH :
9-1 1
% Non Vol ati l es : 20
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Stearoamphoacetate, Mi neral O i l ,
Sodium Hydroxide, Gl ycol Stearate, Cetyl Al cohol , P reservati ve,
Dyes.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
356 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vegetable Creme Hair Dressing
%J W&
A. Dei oni zed Water 44. 70
Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S ol ' n. (Carbomer 940)
Wheat-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n)
Tween 20 (P ol ysorbate 20)
35.00
3. 00
1.50
B. Mayphos OL 3N (DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate)
Arl acel 60 (S orbi tan S tearate)
P etrol atum
Wheat Germ O i l
Sesame O i l
Cetyl A1 coho1
Arl acel 165 (Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100 S tearate)
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Shea Butter
C . Triethanolamine-99%
P reservati ves, Fragrance
0.30
1.50
2. 00
2. 00
3.00
1 . oo
1 . oo
3. 00
1 . oo
1 . o o
9. s .
P rocedure:
wi th agi tati on. Mix u n t i l smooth. Add phase C c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d
aerati on.
P roperti es :
A creme hai r dressi ng based on natural vegetabl e o i l s and
protei ns . Condi ti ons and moi sturi zes l eavi ng a smooth f i ni s h and
natural shi ne. Reduces s p l i t ends and dryness wi thout l eavi ng a
greasy f eel . Wheat-Tein NL protects and repai rs the hai r . Mayphos
OL 3N acts as an adj unct emul s i f i er and adds an attr ac ti ve
shi ne. E xcel l ent f o r s etti ng, pressi ng, blow dryi ng and cond-
i ti oni ng. Massage a small amount i nt o the hai r and es peci al l y
i nt o the ends.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HE-1651
Heat Phases A & B separatel y t o 80C. Add Phase B t o A at 80C
Clear Conditioner
Mackpro Condi ti oner*
Hydroxyethyl c e l l ul ose
Mackstat DM
Water, Fragrance, Dye q s t o
Procedure:
1 . Completely di sperse Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose i n water.
2. Heat t o 45C and add Mackpro condi ti oner.
3 , Adj ust pH t o 5. 0 wi th l a c t i c aci d.
4. When product i s cl ear, add remaining components.
5. Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
*Based on 100% concentrati on
Hair Care Products 357
Water-Based Hair Sprays
These formul ati ons demonstrate a dual - res i n approach to
al cohol - f ree hai r spray systems which u t i l i z e the qui ck-
s etti ng benef i ts o f Eastman AQ polymer t o achi eve comparable
performance wi th tr adi ti onal al cohol products. The combi nati on
o f Eastman AQ water- di spersi bl e pol yesters and conventi onal
water- sol ubl e res i ns provi des performance improvements over
s i ngl e component systems. Thi s technol ogy provi des formul ati on
f l e x i b i l i t y t o opti mi ze performance i n rinseability/washability,
degree of hol d, humi di ty resi stance, f i l m el as t i c i t y, and vi s c-
os i ty control f o r spray pattern.
Phase A: %w/w
Formulation X21980-057 (Pump)
D i s t i 1 l ed water 90.4
Eastman AP 55s polymer 5.0
Phase 8 :
Germall I1 di az ol i di nyl urea 0. 3
Methylparaben 0.3
Phase C:
Luvi skol VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer-50% s ol i ds 4.0
Procedure:
1. Heat Phase A t o 85C.
2. Wi th mi xi ng, hol d at 80-85C f o r 15 mi nutes.
3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l di ssol ved.
4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C .
5. Add water l o s t duri ng heati ng.
6. Mix u n t i l uni form; f i l t e r and package.
pH: 6.Ot-1.0
Formulation X21980-058 (Aerosol)
Phase A:
Di s t i l l e d water
Eastman AQ 38s polymer
Phase B:
Germall I1 di az ol i di nyl urea
Methylparaben
Phase C:
Luvi skol VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer-50% s ol i ds
Phase D:
Dymel A di methyl ether
Procedure:
1. Heat Phase A to 85C.
2. With mi xi ng, hol d at 80-85C f o r 15 minutes.
3. Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l di ssol ved.
4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C .
5. Add water l o s t duri ng heati ng.
6. Add Phase D at room temperature.
7. Mix u n t i l uni form; f i l t e r and package.
8. Agi tate aerosol contai ner t o ensure s ol uti on of propel l ant.
pH: 6.Ot-1.0
6 0 . 4
5.0
0.3
0 . 3
4 . 0
30.0
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
358 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-Based Pump Hair Spray
Water-based spray provi des cl ear gl ossy f i l m and strong hol d
on hai r . F i xati ve polymer requi res no neutral i z ati on; has l ow
vi s cos i ty f o r ef f ec ti ve spray pattern and better dry ti me.
I naredi ents:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
P art 8 :
Dimethicone copol yol
Laurami de DEA (Monamide 71 6)
AMP-Acrylates Copolymer (Di ahol d A-503)
Gl yceri n
P ropylene Gl ycol
Fragrance
P reservati ve
% b v Weight
91.50
0.30
0. 30
7.00
0.20
0.40
0. 10
0.20
P rocedure:
Add A t o vessel . Add B i n order wi th mi xi ng. Adj ust pH t o 6. 5
F ormul ati on PF-0250 suggested by Sandoz
Hair Spritzing Spray, Non-Aerosol
I naredi ents:
Crovol M40 (corn o i l PEG-20 complex)
AMP-95
Ethanol DEB 100
Gantrez ES425 (PVM/MA copolymer)
E scal ol 507 ( octyl di methyl PABA)
Water, dei oni zed
d-Panthenol
Perfume, preservati ves, col or
% by Weight
0.50
0.16
t o 100
8.00
1 .oo
11.36
0.10
q . s .
Procedure:
wi th mi xi ng. Mix i n the E scal ol , then Crovol . Premix the water
and Panthenol then add the al cohol . Mi x u n t i l cl ear.
F ormul ati on PF-0249E
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Di ssol ve the AMP-95 i n the al cohol . Add the Gantrez ES r es i n
Hair Care Products 359
Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free
%w/w
I Eumulgin HRE 60 1. 0
Perfume 0. 5
I 1 Water 55. 0
Carbopol 940 0. 8
I 1 1 Water 5. 0
T r i ethanol ami ne 1.5
I V Nasuna B 0. 5
Water 35.7
P reparati on: Carbopol 940 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the al cohol /water
mi xture s t i r r i n g conti nuousl y, and al l owed t o s wel l . Later
i t i s neutral i z ed wi th the tri ethanol ami ne di ssol ved i n 5
parts water.
Nasuna 6 i s di ssol ved i n the remaining water, s t i r r i n g cont-
i nuousl y. Thi s s ol uti on i s added t o the swol l en Carbopol.
Eumulgin SML 20 and perfume are mixed together and then mixed
wi th a small quanti ty o f the above gel before bei ng mixed w i t h
the remaining gel ,
Formula No. WF11-27
Wet Gel
E thyl al cohol 96%
Water
Carbopol 940
Tri ethanol ami ne
Eumulgin SML 20
Perfume
P reparati on: See Formula WFll-27
Formula No. WF11-30
Setting Lotion, Clear, in Gel Form
Nasuna B
Carbopol 940
E thyl / i s opropyl al cohol
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
P reparati on : See Formul a WF11-27
Formula No. WF 11-32
Hair Oil
P ar af f i n o i l
C eti ol V
I sopropyl myri s tate
Formula No. WF31-01
Hair Oil
P ar af f i n o i l
C eti ol E3
Formula No. WF31-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
41 . O
51 . 9
0 . 0
1 . o
5. 0
0. 3
%w/w
4. 0
0.7
50.1
1 .o
44.2
60. 0
30.0
10. 0
%w/w
90.0
10.0
360 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wet Gel with Glitter Effect, Contains Alcohol
%w/w
I Water 20.0
E thyl al cohol 96% 41 . O
Carbopol 940 0. 7
I 1 Water 5. 0
T r i ethanol ami ne 1 . o
I11 Water 25.0
Nasuna B 1 . o
I V Eumulgin SML 20 5. 0
Perfume 0. 3
V P ol yester g l i t t e r bl ue 25/105R 1 . o
P reparati on: Carbopol 940 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the al cohol /water
mi xture s t i r r i ng conti nuousl y, and al l owed t o swel l . Later it
i s neutral i zed wi th the tri ethanol ami ne di ssol ved i n 5 parts
water.
Nasuna B i s di ssol ved i n the remai ni ng water, s t i r r i ng conti n-
uousl y. Thi s s ol uti on i s added t o the swol l en Carbopol.
Eumulgin SML 20 and perfume are mixed together and then mixed
wi th a smal l quanti ty of the above gel before bei ng mixed wi th
the remai ni ng gel .
F i nal l y, the pol yester g l i t t e r i s s t i r r ed i n. To improve the
appearance the Carbopol gel can be col ored yel l ow ( f o r golden
pol yester g l i t t e r ) or bl ue ( f or bl ue pol yester g l i t t e r ) .
Formula No. WFll-14
Wet Gel with Glitter Effect, Contains Alcohol
I Water
E thyl al cohol 96%
Carbopol 940
Tri ethanol ami ne
Nasuna B
Perfume
I I Water
111 Water
I V Eumulgin RO 40
V P ol yester g l i t t e r bl ue 25/105R
P reparati on: See Formula WFll-14
Formula No. WF11-16
Wet Gel
E thyl al cohol 96%
Water
Carbopol 940
T r i ethanol ami ne
Eumulgin SML 20
Perfume
P reparati on: See Formula WFll-14
Formula No. WFll-17
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
omw/w
20.0
41 .O
0. 7
5. 0
1 . o
29.2
1 . o
0. 8
0. 3
1 . o
%w/W
40.0
53.1
0. 6
1 . o
5. 0
0. 3
Hair Care Products 361
Wet Gel with Reduced Alcohol Content
%w/w
I Water 40.0
E thyl al cohol 96% 20.0
Carbopol 940 0 . 8
I1 Water 5.0
Tri ethanol ami ne 1. 2
111 Nasuna B 0. 5
Water 30.0
I V Eumulgin HRE 40 2.0
Perfume 0. 5
P reparati on: Carbopol 940 i s s pri nkl ed i nt o the al cohol /water
mi xture s t i r r i ng conti nuousl y, and al l owed t o s wel l . Later it
i s neutral i z ed wi th the tri ethanol ami ne di ssol ved i n 5 par ts
water.
Nasuna B i s di ssol ved i n the remai ni ng water, s t i r r i n g conti n-
uousl y. Thi s s ol uti on i s added t o the swol l en Carbopol.
Eumulgin SML 20 and perfume are mixed together and then mixed
wi th a small quanti ty o f the above gel bef ore bei ng mixed w i t h
the remaining gel .
Formula No. WFll-19
Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free
I Water
Carbopol 940
I 1 Water
T r i ethanol ami ne
I 1 1 Water
Nasuna B
I V P ol yquart H81
Perfume
P reparati on: See formul a WF11-19
Formula No. WF11-23
Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free
I Eumulgin HRE 40
Perfume
I1 Water
Carbopol 940
I 1 1 Water
T r i e t hano 1 ami ne
I V Nasuna B
Water
P reparati on: See formul a WF11-19
Formula No. WF11-25
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
55.0
0.8
5 . 0
2.0
35.0
1 .o
1 . o
0.2
%y&
1 .o
0.5
55. 0
0. 8
5.0
1.5
0.5
35.7
362 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel
%w/w
A. Tween 20 (P ol ysorbate 20) 1 .oo
I var l an AWS (PPG-12 PEG-65 L anol i n O i l ) 2.00
Fragrance (Novarome Tuberose MG-02) 0.20
Gl yceri n 10.00
Dei oni zed Water 22.20
Wheat-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Wheat P rotei n) 1.00
P reservati ve, col or q. s.
0. I sopropyl Al cohol 99% 10.00
PVP/VA E-735 (PVP/VA Copolymer) 2.00
E . Kera-Tein 1000 AS (E thyl E ster o f Hydrol yzed K erati n) 1.00
Procedure:
i n, water and wheat. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous. Add t o Phase B . Add
Phase C (AMP) t o A/B. Mi xture w i l l c l ear and thi cken. Pre-mix
Phase D. Add t o batch. Add Phase E . Mi x.
P ropert i es :
A thi ck, spreadable gel provi di ng hai r hol di ng and moi stur-
i z i ng. Adds shi ne and protecti ve protei ns t o the hai r . Kera-Tein
1000 AS i s a substanti ve cati oni c es ter. Wheat-Tein NL i s a sub-
s tanti ve, fi l m- formi ng protei n.
Formula #HF-1003
B. Carbopol 940 (2% Aq. S ol ' n) (Carbomer 940) 50.00
C . Aminomethyl Propanol 0.60
Pre-mix AWS, Tween and Fragrance u n t i l cl ear. Add the Gl ycer-
Hi-Fashion Hair Sculpture Gel
%w/w
A . Dei oni zed Water 19.50
P ro-Tein ES-20 (E thyl E ster o f Hydrolyzed Col l agen) 3.00
Tetrasodi um EDTA 0. 10
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Aci ds (and) Acetamide
MEA (and) P ropylene Gl ycol ) 1. 00
Carbomer 940 - 2% Aq. S ol ' n 44.00
B. SO Al cohol 40A 30.00
PVP/VA E535 2.00
Fragrance 0.10
C . Ami nomethyl Propanol -95 0.30
Procedure:
1. Mix Phase A a t room temperature.
2. Pre-mix Phase 0 , then add t o A.
3. Add Phase C t o A/B.
P roperti es :
s tyl es . Repairs and condi ti ons whi l e provi di ng a professi onal -
hol d. P rotei n ES-20 i s a cati oni c protei n which provi des shi ne
and f l e x t o the hai r . Thi s cati oni c protei n i s unusual i n that
i t i s compati bl e wi th the ani oni c Carbopol.
f eel and bounce whi l e potecti ng the hai r from external damage.
Formula #HF-1002
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
A pumpable, s tyl i ng gel f o r the very fashi onabl e new hai r-
Aqua-Tein C nurtures the hai r from wi thi n provi di ng a natural
Hair Care Products 363
3 in 1 Professional Conditioning Mousse with Sunscreen
I ngredi ents:
Water
P olycare 133
I gepal CO-630
Mi ranol U l t r a C-32
Syntase 230
Mi rapol A-15
dl-P anthenol
Alcohol (190 proof )
S i 1 bi one 71 634
S i 1 bi one 70646
P reservati ve, Fragrance
A-46 P ropel 1 ant
AMP-95
% bv Weight
70.153
3.15
0 . 1 8
0.18
0.045
0.10
0.045
16.00
0.120
0.027
q. s .
10.00
q . s . pH=5.0
P rocedure:
1. Add water t o the main beaker and di s s ol ve the dl-P anthenol
2. Add and di s s ol ve the P ol ycare 133.
3. Add I gepal CO 630, Mi rapol A-15, Mi ranol U l t r a C-32, and
4. Prephase S i l bi one 71634 and S i l bi one 70646, then add t o main
5. Add fragrance and preservati ve.
6. Adj ust pH wi th AMP-95.
7. Package product us i ng P ropel 1 ant A-46.
Valve:
and Syntase 230.
Al cohol .
phase.
Actuator: 021 560
Stem: 1270
Stem gasket: 0330
Spri ng: 6010
Body : 0-6973
Mounting C l i p: Coni cal , A1 umi num Epon
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
Appearance o f J US: White, Opaque L oti on
pH: 4.5-5.0
F ormul ati on PF-0283 suggested by Rhone-Poulenc
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
364 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
55% VOC DME/HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray
I nqredi ents:
Water
Ethanol
Acudyne 255 (41% s ol i ds )
HFC-152a
Di methyl ether (DME)
Dow Corning 190 F l ui d
AMP-95
% bv Weiaht
22.42
34.60
0. 56
12.50
9. 60
20.40
0.10
P rocedure:
Mi x water, ethanol , AMP-95 and pl as ti c i z er . Add polymer wi th
s t i r r i ng. Mi x u n t i l s ol uti on i s s l i ght l y turbi d, but acti ves
are di spersed. Charge HFC-152a and DME. The mi xture i mmedi ate1 y
turns c l ear .
P roperti es:
Cloud P oi nt: <-22F
Vapor P ressure: 40 ps i g @ 70F
F ormul ati on PF-0316 suggested by Rohm and Haas
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I ngr ed i en t s :
Water
Ethanol
Acudyne 255 (41% s ol i ds )
Dow Corning 190 F l ui d
AMP-95
% by Weight
31 .84
55.00
0.56
12.50
0. 10
P rocedure:
s t i r r i ng. Mi x u n t i l s ol uti on i s cl ear. Neutral i z ati on l evel i s
55%.
P roperti es :
Mi x water, ethanol , AMP-95 and pl as ti c i z er . Add polymer wi th
Cloud P oi nt: <-22F
Vi s cos i ty: 8. 5 cps, s pi ndl e #1 @ 60 rpm
F ormul ati on PF-0315 suggested by Rohm and Haas
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 365
80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
I nqredients/CTFA Desi nnati ons: % by Weiqht
Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl
Methacryl ate Copolymer 5.00
AMP-95/Ami nomethyl P ropanol 0.98
Uvi nul MS-40/Benzophenone-4 0.05
dl-P anthenol/P anthenol 0.21
DC-l93/Dimethicone Copolyol 0.30
C i trof l ex- 2/ T ri ethyl C i tr ate 0.20
Armeen DM-IED/Dimethyl Stearamine 0.17
Deionized Water 13.09
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40 80.00
P rocedure:
Di ssol ve AMP and Armeen DM-I8D i n water and ethanol . Whi l e
mai ntai ni ng good agi tati on, s l owl y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When
s ol uti on i s complete, add remaining i ngredi ents and mix wel l
unti 1 homogeneous. F i 1 t e r and fi 11.
F ormul ati on PF-0259 suggested by Nati onal Starch & Chemical Co.
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez C-425 and Gantrez XL-80
I naredi ents: % by Weight
Ethanol (190 proof ) 79.63
Water 3.96
Gantrez XL-80 (PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer) 5.70
AMP-95 0.41
Gantrez V-425 (Butyl E ster o f PVM/MA Copolymer) 10.00
Phenyl Tri methi cone 0.10
Fragrance 0.20
P rocedure:
1. Add Ethanol and water t o main tank. S tar t mi xi ng and add
Gantrez XL-80. Mix unt i l compl etel y blended.
2. Add AMP-95 and mix u n t i l blended.
3. Add Gantrez V-425 and then addi ti onal i ngred
compl etel y af t er each addi ti on.
F ormul ati on PF-0260 suggested by ISP
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formu
ents whi l e mi xi ng
ary
366 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I ngredi e n 3
Resyn 28-2930
Amphomer LV-71
D i methi cone copol yo1
Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Fragrance
Dei oni zed water
Anhydrous ethanol , SDA-40
AMP-95
% by Weight
5. 41
1. 19
0. 74
0.11
0. 10
0. 15
12. 30
80. 00
P rocedure:
agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930 and Amphomer LV-71.
When s ol uti on i s complete, add remaining i ngredi ents and mix
u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0206 suggested by Nati onal Starch and Chemical
Di ssol ve AMP-95 i n water and ethanol . While mai ntai ni ng good
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
I ngredi en&
A . Al cohol SD-40
Resyn 28-2930
PPG-10 c etyl ether
AMP-95
B. Deionized water
Crotei n ADW
Oh by_ Wglght
60.00
3. 00
0. 80
0.40
35.60
0. 20
P rocedure:
Add the AMP-95 o f P art A t o the al cohol wi th mi xi ng. When
uni form, add the Resyn 29-2930 wi th mi xi ng. When uni form, add
the PPG-10 c etyl ether. Separatel y, mix the i ngredi ents of P art
8 , then add t o P art A w i t h mi xi ng.
F ormul ati on PF-0222 suggested by Croda I nc.
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation
Stiff Feel
I ns redi ents:
Advantage V Resin
SD Al cohol 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
P ropel 1 ant A-1 7
Dimethyl Ether P ropel 1 ant
P l as ti c i z er
Fragrance
F ormul ati on PF-0205 suggested by I nternat
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct
AMP-95
% by Weight
8. 00
onal Spec
Formulary
0. 24
46.00
15.76
9. 00
21 .00
q. s .
q. s .
a l t y P roducts
Hair Care Products 367
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I naredi ents : % by Weight
Lovocryl-47 4.13
Resyn 28-2930 1. 37
AMP-95 0.96
Sandopan LS-24 0.20
DC P2-5220 0.20
Deionized Water 13.14
Anhydrous Ethanol, SDA-40 80.00
Fragrance q . s .
P rocedure:
tai ni ng good agi tati on. When di ssol ved, sl owl y s i f t i n Lovocryl -
47. Upon di s s ol uti on, add the water fol l owed by the remaining
i ngredi ents . Continue mi xi ng u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0282 suggested by Nati onal Starch & Chemical Corp.
Valve: Seaquist Euromist I 1 160 output wi th a 0.016" x 0.010''
deep actuator.
Di ssol ve AMP i n ethanol . Sl owl y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930, main-
80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I naredi ents: % by Weight
Amphomer LV-71 3.75
AMP-95 0.78
Armeen DM 18D 0. 14
C i tr of l ex- 2 0.20
Monamid 716 0.15
Sol ulan-75 0.10
Neo-He1 i opan AV 0.10
G1 yceri ne 0. 10
Panthenol 0. 10
Deionized Water 14.58
SDA-40 Anhydrous 50.00
Fragrance q . s .
Prop. A-17 (n-butane) 15.00
Dimethyl ether 15.00
P rocedure:
mai ntai ni ng good agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When
s ol uti on i s complete, add remaining i ngredi ents and mix u n t i l
homogeneous. F i 1 t e r , f i 11 and charge wi t h propel 1 ants .
P reci s i on Valve and Actuator S peci f i cati ons :
Di ssol ve AMP-95 and Armeen DM 18D i n water and ethanol . Whi l e
Stem: 04-1215 0.16"
Spri ng: 06-6010 SS
Body : 07-7970 .016" LD
Di p Tube: 09-201 0
Stem Gasket: 05-0350 Butyl
Mounting Cup: 32-7300-62 F l at, Epon Top/Bottom Dimpled, FBS
Actuator S tyl e: 21-8146 Kosmos
Or i f i c e Si ze: .025" MB Concave
F ormul ati on PF-0284 f r o m Nati onal S tarch and Chemical Co.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
368 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
I naredi ents:
Resyn 28-2930
Amphomer LV-71
Dimethicone copol yol
Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Fragrance
Dei oni zed water
Anhydrous ethanol , SDA-
AMP-95
.40
% bv Weiaht
5. 41
1.19
0. 74
0.11
0.10
0. 15
12.30
80.00
Procedure:
agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930 and Amphomer LV-71.
When s ol uti on i s complete, add remai ni ng i ngredi ents and mix
u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0206 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical
Di ssol ve AMP-95 i n water and ethanol . Whi l e mai ntai ni ng good
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
I naredi ents:
A. Al cohol SD-40
Resyn 28-2930
PPG-10 c etyl ether
AMP-95
8. Dei oni zed water
C rotei n ADW
% bv Weiaht
60.00
3. 00
0.80
0.40
35.60
0.20
Procedure:
Add the AMP-95 o f P art A t o the al cohol wi th mi xi ng. When
uni form, add the Resyn 29-2930 wi th mi xi ng. When uni form, add
the PPG-10 cetyl ether. Separatel y, mix the i ngredi ents of P art
8, then add t o P art A wi th mi xi ng.
F ormul ati on PF-0222 suggested by Croda I nc.
80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation
Stiff Feel
I naredi ents :
Advantage V Resin
SD Al cohol 40
Di s t i l l e d Water
P ropel 1 ant A-1 7
Dimethyl Ether P ropel l ant
P l as ti c i z er
Fragrance
F ormul ati on PF-0205 suggested
AMP-95
% bv Weiaht
8. 00
0.24
46.00
15.76
9. 00
21 . oo
q . s .
q . s .
by I nternati onal S peci al ty P roducts
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 369
80% VOC Pump Hai r Spray w i t h
Gantrez V-225, Advantage V and Gantrez XL-80
I ngredi ents: % by Wei ght
Ethanol (190 proof ) 78.82
Water 3.13
Gantrez XL-80 (PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer) 5.70
AM?-95 0. 45
Advantage V (VA/Butyl Mal eate/I sobornyl Acryl ate
Gantrez V-225 (E thyl E ster o f PVM/MA Copolymer)
Phenyl T r i methi cone
Fragrance
Copolymer) 5. 75
5.75
0.10
0.30
Procedure:
1. Add Ethanol and water t o main tank. S tart mi xi ng and add
2. Add AMP-95 and mix u n t i l blended.
3. Add Advantage V, Gantrez V-225 and then addi ti onal i ngredi ents
F ormul ati on PF-0261 suggested by ISP
Gantrez XL-80. Mi x unti 1 compl etel y blended.
whi l e mi xi ng compl etel y af ter each addi ti on.
Alcohol-Free Styling Mist
I ngredients/CTFA Desi gnati ons: % by Wei aht
Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylarnide/Acrylates/Butylamino-
7.00 ethyl Methacryl ate Copolymer
AM?-95/Aminomethyl Propanol
Monamid 71 6/Laurami de DEA
Gl yceri ne
Dow Corni ng 19O/Dimethicone Copolyol
Uvimul MS-40/Benzophenone 4
Fragrance/Sunflower Fragrance 12294
Germaben I I / P ropyl ene Gl ycol (and) Diazo1
(and) Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
Dei oni zed Water
F ormul ati on PF-0262 suggested by Nati onal
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct
1.50
0.15
0.10
0.20
0. 05
0. 20
1 .OD
89.80
di nyl Urea
S tarch & Chemical Co.
Formulary
370 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Shine and Hold Spray
I nqredi ents: % by Weight
Amp homer 5.00
AMP-95 0. 82
Dow Corni ng 190 5.00
Monamid 716 0.20
Anhydrous Ethanol , SDA-40 80.00
Dei oni zed Water 8. 98
Procedure:
Di ssol ve AMP-95 i n ethanol and water. Whi l e mai ntai ni ng good
agi tati on, s i f t i n Amphomer. When s ol uti on i s complete, add
DC-190 and Monamid 716. Mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0270 suggested by Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Co.
Non-Aerosol 80% VOC Hair Spray
I ngredi ents: % by Weight
Gantrez A-425 24.00
SD-40 200P 68.00
AMP-95 0.98
Phenyl Tri methi cone 0.10
Dei oni zed Water 6.67
Fragrance 0.25
Procedure:
1. Add Ethanol and AMP-95 t o sui tabl e contai ner. Mi x wel l .
2. Add Gantrez A-425. Mi x wel l .
3. Add Phenyl Tri methi cone. Mix we1 1.
4. Add fragrance. Mi x wel l .
F ormul ati on PF-0287 suggested by ISP
Firm Holding Hairspray
S trong hol d, f o r a l l c l i mati c zones, easy combabi l i ty, good
brush- out, good wash-out properti es .
I ngredi ents:
Luvimer 1OOP
% by Weiaht
3.00 . ~~
AMP Regular 0.69
Ethanol 36.31
Dimethyl ether 60.00
Perfume q . s .
Procedure:
s ol uti on and mix u n t i l cl ear.
Combine ethanol , AMP and perfume. Add Luvimer lOOP t o the
Cloud poi nt: -35C
P ressure: 3. 9 bar
Densi ty: 0.74 g/cm 3
F ormul ati on PF-0288 suggested by BASF
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Hair Care Products 371
80% VOC Super Hold Hair Spray
S i l i cone polymer bl end reduces vi s cos i ty, improves spray
pattern by f uncti oni ng as a defoamer and improves s et retenti on.
I ns redi ents: % bv Wei aht
P art A:
Vi nyl acetate/ butyl mal eate/i sobornyl acryl ate
copolymer 10.00
AMP-95 0.14
Phenyl tri methi cone (Abi 1 AV-2OHS) 0.10
Dimethicone copol yol ( Abi l B 8852) 0.10
copolymer ( Abi l S-201) 0.20
Dimethyl ether 21 .oo
Dimethicone/sodium PG propyl dimethicone thi os ul f ate
SD al cohol 40 37.71
Water 16.50
S tearyl heptanoate (Tegosoft SH) 0.15
Sodium l auroyl sarcosi nate 0.05
Di sodi urn dodecenyl s ul fosucci nate 0.05
P art 8:
I sobutane (and) propane 14.00
P rocedure:
ers . Charge spray contai ners wi th B.
F ormul ati on PF-0252 suggested by Goldschmidt
Mix A, mi xi ng wel l between addi ti ons . F i l l i nt o spray contai n-
I ngredi ents :
P art A:
Deionized water
Ethanol
AMP-95
80% VOC Hairspray
% by Weiqht
0.70
11 .oo
72.00
P art B:
Monoethyl es ter o f polymethyl vi nyl ether/mal ei c aci d
(Gantrez V-215) 16.00
P art C :
Fragrance
P rocedure:
Mi x A u n t i l uni form. Add B, mix u n t i l uni form. Add C .
F ormul ati on PF-0251 suggested by I SP
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
0.30
Section VII
Insect Repellents
3 72
Insect Repellents 373
Insect Repellent Cream O/W
I Cuti na MO
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol LC
Repel 1 ent 790
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
I 1 Vi scontran MHPC 6000 2% s ol uti on
Note: Avoid contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
Formula No. 111-01
Insect Repellent Cream O/W
I Cuti na MO
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eurnulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Repel 1 ent oi 1 2B432C
I 1 Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-4% s ol uti on
I11 Tri ethanol ami ne
Note: Avoi d contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
Formula No. 111-02
Water
Insect Repellent Emulsion O/W, Liquid
I Cuti na MO
S i egert S teari n L2SM
Eumulgin B1
Eumulgin 82
C eti ol V
Repel l ent 790
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
I 1 Veegum
Note: Avoid contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
Formula No. 121-01
Insect Repellent Oil, Alcoholic
Eutanol G
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
C eti ol HE
Repel 1 ent 790
E thyl al cohol 96%
Note: Avoi d contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
Formula 131-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%Wl &
8. 0
8. 0
1 . o
5. 0
10. 0
5. 0
1 . o
62. 0
%Wf W
12.0
4. 0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
10.0
37. 4
0. 2
28. 4
NLW
2. 5
3. 0
1. 5
1. 5
5. 0
10. 0
2. 5
0. 2
7 3 . 8
10. 0
20.0
10. 0
374 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Insect Repellent Stick
%NAY
Eutanol G 10. 0
Comperlan 100 8. 0
S i egert S teari n L2SM 9. 3
Menthol 2. 0
Dimethyl phthal ate 30. 0
I sopropyl al cohol 24.0
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 13.2
Sodi um hydroxi de sol u t i on 38% 3. 5
P reparati on: Eutanol G, Comperlan 100, S i egert S teari n, di methyl
phthal ate and i sopropyl al cohol are heated on the water bath a t
70C u n t i l the Comperlan has mel ted. Together wi th the sodium
hydroxi de s ol uti on, the gl yceri ne i s al s o heated t o 70C and
added t o the al cohol i c f a t mel t. The compond i s then cast i nt o
moulds, i t s ol i di f i es i n a few minutes and can be taken out o f
the mould before i t compl etel y cool s. It i s advi sabl e t o work
wi th a s l i ght excess o f al cohol . The amount i s approx. 10%
i n the case o f small batches, whi l s t i n the case o f l arger ones,
correspondi ngl y 1 ess .
Note: Max. pH 11
Formula No. 141-01
Insect Repellent Stick
%W/ w
Lanette 18 12.0
Eutanol G 5. 0
Comperlan HS 25. 0
Carnauba wax 3. 0
Hard par af f i n 72C 12. 0
E thyl al cohol 96% 10. 0
Repel 1 ent oi 1 28432C 33. 0
P reparati on: Lanette 18, Eutanol G, Comperlan HS, Carnauba wax
and hard par af f i n are mel ted on the water bath. E thyl al cohol
and repel l ent o i l are mixed together and heated t o 70C. Af ter
the f a t mel t has al s o cool ed down t o 70C, t h i s mi xture i s sl owl y
s ti r r ed i nt o i t and then cast i n moulds. The compound s ol i di f i es
i n a few mi nutes. The s ti c ks can be taken out o f the mould
before they have compl etel y cool ed down.
Note: Avoid contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
Formula No. 141-02
Repel l ent o
Eutanol G
E thyl or i s
F i l l i n g : 50
50
Note: Avoi d
Formula No.
Insect Repellent Spray, Aerosol-Packed
%W/W
1 28432 c 20 0
40. 0
propyl al cohol 40. 0
parts acti ve i ngredi ent concentrate
parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
contact wi th eyes and mucous membranes
171-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Section Vlll
Lotions
3 75
376 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
Ri ch emulsion contai ni ng al pha hydroxy aci d t o gentl y
exf ol i ate and rej uvenate the s ki n. E xtra mi l dness.
I naredi ents:
1. Gri l l ocos e PS (Methyl Glucose
2. Behenyl Al cohol (Lanette 22)
3. Mi neral O i l 9NF
4. Octyl Octanoate (Tegosoft EE)
5. *Gri l l oten LSE 65K (Sucrose Cocoate)
6. Sodium Cetearyl S ul f ate (Lanette E)
7. Gl yceri ne
8. Xanthan Gum ( K el trol G-T)
9. Oi s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
10. P atl ac LA ( L acti c Aci d, 88%)
11.Sodium Hydroxide (20% S ol n. )
12. G l ydant
13. F ragrance- Nature's Herbal #165-050
S esqui stearate)
%w/w
3.00
3.00
7.50
7. 50
2.00
0.10
3.00
0.40
62.70
5. 60
5. 00
0.20
q . s .
F uncti on
Emu1 s i f i er
Thickener
Emol 1 i ent
E mol l i ent
E mul s i f i er/
Emol 1 i ent
E mul s i f i er/
C l eani ng
Humectant
Thickener
Hydroxy Aci d
pH Adj uster
P reservati ve
Odor
----
* S ubs ti tuti on wi th R i tal an C and Natural E xtract OP i s bei ng
i nvesti gated.
Compounding Procedure:
s ol uti on t o 3. 8. I n remai ni ng water, di s s ol ve i tem 8. Add i tems
6 and 7 and heat t o 80C. Separatel y heat i tems 1-5 t o 80C. Add
i tems 1-5 t o i tems 6-9 and mi x. Whi l e mi xi ng cool t o 45C and
add i tems 12 and 13. A t 40C add prepared L acti c Aci d s ol uti on
(pH 3. 8) and homogenize
Ref No. 119-11
Add P atl ac LA t o 10% water and adj ust pH w i t h Sodium Hydroxide
Light Hand Lotion
I ngredi ents: %w/w
1. Ri tachol 2000 (R. I . T. A. Blend) 3.50
2. P ati oni c SSL (Sodium S tearoyl Lact-
yl ate) 1. 40
3. R i ta I PP (I sopropyl P al mi tate) 1. 30
4. Oi s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 88.50
5. P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
6. Fragrance 0.10
7. Glydant 0.20
F uncti on
E mul s i f i er
M i l dness
Emol 1 i ent
Humectant
Odor
P reservati ve
----
Compounding Procedure:
Combine i tems 1-3 and heat t o 70C. Combine i tems 4 and 5 and
heat t o 70C. Add o i l phase t o water phase and mix wel l . Cool t o
40C and add f r agr anc e/ dy es / pr es er v at i v es .
Ref. No. 119-92
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: S ki n Care Formulary
Lotions 377
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
Ri ch emulsion contai ni ng al pha hydroxy aci d t o gentl y
exf ol i ate and rej uvenate the s ki n.
I naredi ents/ Trade Name:
1. Gri l l ocos e PS (Methyl Glucose
Sesqui stearate)
2. Behenyl Al cohol (Lanette 22)
3. Mi neral O i l 9NF
4. I sopropyl P al mi tate
5. Sodium Cetearyl S ul f ate (Lanette E )
6. Gl yceri ne
7. Xanthan Gum ( K el trol G-T)
8. Di s t i 11 ed/Dei oni zed Water
9. P atl ac LA ( L acti c Aci d 88%)
10.Sodium Hydroxide (20% S ol n. )
1 1. G1 ydant
12.Fragrance-Natures Herbal #165-050
%w/w
3. 00
3. 00
7.50
7.50
0.10
3. 00
0.40
64.70
5.60
5. 00
0. 20
q. s .
F uncti on
Emul s i f i er
Thickener
mol 1 i ent
Emoll i ent
Emul s i f i er ,
C1 eani ng
Humectant
Thickener
Hydroxy Acid
pH Adj uster
P reservati ve
Odor
----
Compounding Procedure:
s ol uti on t o 3. 8. I n remai ni ng water, di s s ol ve i tem 7. Add i tems
5 and 6 and heat t o 80C. Separatel y heat i tems 1- 4 t o 80C. Add
i tems 1-4 t o i tems 5-8 and mi x. While mi xi ng, cool t o 45C and
add i tems 11 and 12. A t 40C add prepared L acti c Aci d s ol uti on
(pH 3. 8) and homogenize.
Ref. No. 119-18B
Add P atl ac LA t o 10% water and adj us t pH wi th Sodium Hydroxide
Hand and Body Lotion
A l l over hand and body l oti on wi th excel l ent f eel and
moi s turi z i ng benef i ts .
I naredi ents:
1. Mi neral O i l
2. P etrol atum
3. Ritawax ALA ( R . I . T . A . Blend)
4. Ri tachol (Mi neral O i l and L anol i n
5. Ri tapro 165 (R.I .T.A. Blend)
6. P ol yquta 3000 (P olyquaternium-10)
7. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
8. Gl yceri ne
9. Fragrance - Eau Sauvage 169-118
10.Glydant
Al cohol )
%w/w
5. 00
4.00
6.00
4.00
5.00
0. 50
69.10
6.00
0.20
0. 20
F uncti on
Emol 1 i ent
Emol 1 i ent
S ki n Feel
Rub I n
Emul s i f i er
S ki n Feel
Moi sture
Odor
P reservati ve
----
Compounding Procedure:
Di ssol ve P ol yquta 3000 i n water. Add Gl yceri ne and heat t o
70C. S eparatel y heat i tems 1-5 t o 70C. Add i tems 1-5 t o water
mi xture whi l e mi xi ng. Cool and add preservati ve and perfume.
Ref. No. 119-36
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: S ki n Care Formulary
378 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Barrier Lotion
Thi s buttery l o t i o n appl i es eas i l y and protects the hands
from harsh environments.
I naredi ent :
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
G1 ycer i n
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art B:
Dimethicone, 1000 cs.
Pemulen TR-1
Carbopol 954
P art C :
Mi neral O i l
Weiaht% F uncti on
75.30 Di 1 uent
3.00 Humectant
0 I 40 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
10.00 Barri er
0.30 E mul s i f i er
0.20 Thi ckener
10.00 Barri er
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben
0.80 P reservati ve
(1) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(2) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
( 3) Drakeol 19 (Penreco)
( 4) Germaben 11-E (Sutton Laboratori es)
P reparatl on :
1. Blend P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n the
2. Prepare P art B i n a separate vessel by mi xi ng polymers i n
3. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. P romptly
4. Add P art D and bl end thoroughl y.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co. : Formula PO024
enti r e formul ati on.
di methi cone t o produce a f i ne suspension.
add P art C t o the mi xture. Mi x t o produce a smooth, gl ossy
product.
Lotions 379
Body Lotion
Thick lotion leaving a soft touch
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A: Emulaator E2149/Stearvl Al cohol (and) Steareth-7
Tegosoft 189/ I s ooctad~cyl I sononanoate
Wacker-Belsi 1 SM 6018/Stearyl Methi cone
I sopropyl Myri s tate
B: Wacker-Belsil DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate
C : Carbopol 934 2%ig/Carbomer 934
Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Heat A and C each t o 70C. Mi x C well i n t o A, add B.
F ormul ati on 1326 AH
Body Lotion
White, creamy lotion which dissolves easily
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Mi neral O i l . t hi nl y l i a u i d
S teari c aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
B : Water
A1 1 antoi n/5- Urei do-hydantoi n
Tri ethanol ami ne
7. 00%
1 . oo
2. 50
7. 00
2. 00
15. 00
65.50
q.s.
5. 00%
5. 00
1 .50
81 . 20
0. 50
0 . 8 0
C : P ropylene Gl ycol 3. 00
Wacker-Belsil DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate 3. 00
P reservati ve, Perfume, Col ouri ngs
q. s
Heat A and B t o 65C. Add A t o B wi th s t i r r i ng. Add C and s t i r
u n t i l cool .
F ormul ati on 1225/7 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Su g g es t ed F ormul ati ons
380 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion
Thick lotion with good absorption leaving a soft touch on the
skin.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A : Emulgator E2149/Stearyl Al cohol (and) Steareth- 7 7.00%
Tegosoft 189/I sooctadecyl I sononanoate 1 . oo
I sopropyl Myri s tate 7.00
Wacker-Belsil SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy
Di methyl si l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si l oxane 2. 50
B: Wacker-Belsi 1 DMC 6038/Dimethicone Copolyol
Carbopol 934 Z%ig/Carbomer 934
Tri ethanol ami ne 2%ig
Water
3. 00
5. 00
5. 00
69.50
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q. s .
Heat A and B each t o 70C. Mi x B wel l i nt o A .
F ormul ati on 1337 AH
Skin Lotion
Thin lotion with good spreadability and quick absorption
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A: S teari c Aci d
Cetyl A1 coho1
2. 80%
1 . oo
6 : Gl yceri ne 2. 00
Wacker-Belsi 1 DMC 6038/Dimethicone Copolyol 4. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne 0. 80
Wasser dest. /Water 89. 40
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q. s .
Heat A and B t o 80C, s t i r A i nt o 8.
F ormul ati on 1336 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cones : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Lotions 381
Body Lotion
Thick lotion. Easily spread, quickly absorbed and leaves a
pleasant soft feeling on the skin.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Emulgator E 2155/Stearyl Al cohol (and) S teareth and
Steareth- I O 6.00%
I sopropyl Myri s tate 10. 00
S tearyl Al cohol 1 . oo
Mi neral o i l 3. 00
B el s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone 0. 50
B: Gl yceri ne 3.00
Wasser dest./Water 76. 00
Heat A and B t o 65C, mix and homogenise, cool whi l s t
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 153 AH
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments q. s .
s t i rri ng.
Body Lotion
Easily spread, quickly absorbed.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: B el s i l PDM 200/Phenyl Dimethicone
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
Tri ethanol ami ne
Wasser dest./Water
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments
Heat A and B each t o 80C, s t i r A i nt o B .
F ormul ati on 187/4 AH
B : Gl yceri ne
3 . 60%
2. 80
1 . oo
2 .oo
0.80
89.80
9 , s .
Hand Lotion
White, thick lotion. Does not feel greasy
Mat e r i a 1/CT FA - I n d ex:
Water 79. 40%
Carbopol 934/Carbomer 934 0.40
Mi neral o i 1, low vi s cos i ty 10. 00
Bel s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone 10. 00
T r i ethanol ami ne 0 . 2 0
P reservati ves, perfume q. s
Mix the Carbomer 934 s l owl y i nt o the water unt i l a homogen-
eous mi xture i s formed. Mix the mi neral o i l and B e l s i l DM 350
and add whi l s t s t i r r i ng. F i nal l y s t i r i n the tri ethanol ami ne.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 188 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
382 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion
Thick lotion. Leaves a soft feeling on the skin
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A : Emulgator E 2149/Stearyl Al cohol (and) S teareth 7.00%
Tegosoft 189/I sooctadecyl I sononanoate 1 . oo
B el s i l SDM 6OZZ/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Dimethyl-
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane 2. 50
I sopropyl Myri s tate 7.00
B el s i l DMC 6035/Dimethicone Copolyol Acetate 2. 00
B: Carbopol 934 2%ig/Carbomer 934
Water
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B wel l i nt o A
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C 8 weeks.
F ormul ati on 360 AH
15.00
65. 50
q. 5.
Hand Lotion
Very greasy, but well absorbed. Good water-repellent effect.
wr i al / C T F A - I ndexL
A : P ol yethyl engl ykol 400/PEG-8
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
B : T r i s Ami no/Tromethami ne
P ropylene G1 ycol
Gl yceri ne
Water
2 . 0 0 %
3.00
1 . oo
2. 00
0. 50
4. 50
2. 00
65.00
C: B el s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.) Dimethiconol 2 0 . 0 0
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments q . s .
Heat A and B t o approx. 65C. S t i r B i nt o A, add C and s t i r
unt i l cool .
F ormul ati on 359 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Lotions 383
Body Lotion
White l o t i o n wi th low vi s cos i ty. Leaves a s of t f eel i ng on
the s ki n.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Water ~4 . 5 0 9 ~
Carbopol 934/Carbomer 934 0. 10
8 : Gl yceri ne 3. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne 0. 90
C : Cetyl Al cohol I . oo
S teari c Aci d 0. 80
Arl acel 165/Gl yceryl S tearate se 1 . 50
D: I sopropyl Myri s tate 1 . 50
1 . 50
Di i sopropyl adi pat
Mi neral O i l (l ow vi s cos i ty) 2 . 0 0
E : B el s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.) Dimethiconol 3. 00
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments 4 . S .
Mi x A and heat t o 75C, add 8. Heat C t o 72C and s t i r s l owl y
i nt o AB, Heat D t o 72C and s t i r s l owl y i nt o ABC, add E and s t i r
unt i l cool .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C more than 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 625 AH
Body Lotion
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Mi neral O i l ( hi gh vi s cos i ty)
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
B el s i l CM 030/Cvclomethicone
Bel s i 1 SDM 6022)Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
B el s i l BN /Boron Ni t r i de
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane
6: Tri ethano
P ropylene
Water
P reservat
ami ne
G1 ycol
ves, fragrances, pigments
1 . OO%
1 . oo
1 . 50
5 . 0 0
3.00
2. 00
0. 80
3. 00
82. 70
q . s .
Heat A and B t o 80C. S t i r A i nt o B, mix wel l . Cool whi l s t
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
Formul a t i on 775AH
s t i r r i ng.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
I naredi ents :
Phase A:
H20, Deionized
Carbopol 934
Hetoxide G-7 (Glycereth-7)
Body Lotion
!i
64.80
0.20
3.00
Phase 8:
Hest MS ( Myri s tyl S tearate) 3.00
P roduct SE-100 (Gl yceryl S tearate & PEG-100 S tearate) 6.00
Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) 10.00
S teari c Aci d 5.00
Phase C:
TEA 99% 2.00
H20, Deionized 5.00
Phase D:
Germaben I 1 1 .oo
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 7.00
Vi s cos i ty #4/30: 8000 cps
P rocedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, add H20. Disperse Carbopol 934
usi ng L i ghtni n' type mi xer. Add Hetoxide G-7 and heat t o 75C
whi l e mi xi ng.
2) I n a separate s tai nl es s s teel kettl e, combine Phase A and
heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
3) Add Phase B t o Phase A. Mix u n t i l uni form.
4) Premix Phase C and add t o batch. Mi x unt i l uniform, avoi di ng
6) Cool t o 45C whi l e mi xi ng.
6) Add Phase D. Mi x u n t i l uni form.
Formula HL 93-111
aerati on.
Moisture Lotion
I naredi ents : - %
Phase A:
H20, Deionized 76.00
Phase B:
Hest G-7-TO (Glycereth-7 Tri octanoate) 5.00
Hest IS-2-0 (I sosteareth- 2 Octanoate) 5. 00
Hetol CS (Cetearyl A1 coho1 ) 5.00
Hetoxol L-12 (Laureth-12) 3.00
P roduct SE-100 (Gl yceryl S tearate & PEG-100 Stearate) 5. 00
Phase C :
Germaben I 1 1.00
S peci f i cati ons :
pH: 7.05
Vi s cos i ty #4/30: 9000 cps.
P rocedure:
1) I n separate s tai nl es s s teel kettl es , add Phase A and Phase B
and heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng.
2) A t 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A whi l e mi xi ng u n t i l homogeneous.
3) Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . Mix wel l .
Formula HL 93-120-5
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Suggested Formulations
Lotions 385
Cationic Conditioning Lotion
Thi s novel formul ati on moi sturi zes whi l e i mparti ng a s of t,
vel vety f eel t o the s ki n.
I nsredi ent: Wei qht% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 90. 30 D i 1 uent
Gl yceri n 2. 00 Humectant
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0 . 3 0 Neutral i z -
i ng Agent
Di stearyl di moni um Chl ori de (1) 0.10 Condi ti oner
P art B:
I sopropyl P al mi tate
White P etrol atum
Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 2)
Gl ycol S tearate
D i methi cone ( 1 00 cs . )
Pemulen TR-1
2. 50 Emoll i ent
1. 00 Moi sture
Barri er
1 . 00 mol 1 i ent
1 . OO Opaci f i er
0. 50 Lubri cant
0. 40 Emu1 s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
P art C:
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben (4)
0. 90 P reservat i ve
(1) Arosurf TA-100 (Sherex Chemical)
( 2) Wickenol 171 (CasChem)
( 3 ) Acryl ates/Cl O- 30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 4 ) Germaben I I E (S utton Laboratori es)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Wi th mi xi ng, heat t o 60C.
2. I n a separate vessel , combine a l l P art B i ngredi ents except
Pemulen. Heat t o 60C.
3. When a l l P art B i ngredi ents have mel ted, reconfi rm temperature
and add Pemulen. Use agi tati on t o break-up any s of t agglom-
erates o f res i n.
mi xi ng t o produce a smooth emu1 s i on I
4 . Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A . Continue
5. A t 45-50C, add P art C . Continue mi xi ng. F i l l contai ners @ 35C.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich C o. : Formula PO021
386 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cationic Conditioning Lotion
I nQredi ent:
P art A:
Deionized Water
G1 yceri n
T r i ethanol ami ne 99%
Di stearyl di moni um Chl ori de (1)
P art B:
Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cel l ul os e ( 2)
Oeioni zed Water
P art C:
I sopropyl P al mi tate
White P etrol atum
Octyl hydroxy S tearate (3)
Gl ycol S tearate
Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Pemulen TR-1 (4)
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) Di azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methyl Paraben (and)
P ropyl Paraben (5)
(1 ) Arosurf TA-100 (Sherex Chemi cal )
( 2 ) Methocel E4M fDow Chemical Co.)
Wei Qht%
80.00
2. 00
0.30
0.10
0.10
10.00
2.50
1.00
1 . oo
1.00
0.50
0.20
0. 40
0.90
Funct i on
Di 1 uent
Humectant
Neutral i z i ng
Condi ti oner
Agent
F i l m Former
D i 1 uent
Emoll i ent
Moi sture Barri er
Emol 1 i ent
Opaci f i er
Lubri cant
Bodyi ng Agent
E mul s i f i er/
S tabi l i z er
P reservati ve
( 3j Wickenol 171 (CasChem)
(4) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(5) Germaben I I E (S utton Laboratori es)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n the
enti r e formul ati on. Wi th mi xi ng, heat t o 60C.
2. I n a separate vessel , di sperse the methocel i nt o avai l abl e
dei oni zed water. Gentl y warm t o f a c i l i t a t e di s s ol uti on.
3. I n a separate vessel , combine a l l o f the o i l phase i ngredi ents
(P art C), except Pemulen. Heat t o 60C.
4. When a l l P art C i ngredi ents have melted, reconfi rm temp-
erature and add Pemulen r es i n. Use agi tati on t o break-up
any s of t agglomerates o f res i n.
t o produce a smooth emulsion.
mi x i ng.
a t 35C.
5. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, add P art C t o P art A. Continue mi xi ng
6. Combine the thi ckened P art B t o the emulsion and conti nue
7. A t 45-50C, add P art 0. Continue mi xi ng, and f i l l contai ners
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Formule PO026
Idions 387
Cleansing Lotion, Liquid
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Nutri l an I
Lamesoft LMG
I rgasan DP 300
1, 2- propyl ene gl ycol
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
"/ow/w
15. 0
50. 0
10. 0
5. 0
0. 5
2. 0
0 5
1 0
16 0
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 19%
P reparati on: Mi x I rgasan DP 300 and 1,2-propylene gl ycol unt
you have a cl ear s ol uti on. Add Texapon N25 and the remaining
i ngredi ents i n the order gi ven above. S l i ght heati ng may be
necessary t o cl ear the Lamesoft LMG i n the s ol uti on.
Formula No. L610-22
1
Cleansing Liquid
Lamepon S-TR
Monomuls 90-L 12
Ethanol 96%
I rgasan DP 300
Lamacit GML-20
Perfume
Water
"/,WLW
58. 0
1 . o
10. 0
0. 5
2. 0
0. 1
28. 4
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 19%
P reparati on: Lamepon S-TR, Monomuls 90-L 12 are s t i r r e d together
and heated u n t i l they form a homogenous s ol uti on. Af ter cool i ng
t o 40C the remaining i ngredi ents are added i n the order shown
above.
Formula L610-23
Cleansing Lotion
Texapon N25
Lamepon S
Lamesoft LMG
Lamesoft 156
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 19%
Formula No. L610-24
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Wf!
3 7 . 5
28. 0
5. 0
5. 0
1 . 7
0 . 3
22. 5
388 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Lotion, Pearly
Texapon N40
Texapon TH
Euperlan PK 771
Hydagen P
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 17%, low vi scous
Formula No. L610-09
Cleansing Lotion, Pearly
Texapon N40
Texapon EVR
Euperlan PK771
Hydagen P
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
C i t r i c ac i d
Water
Note: WAS 19%, medium vi scous
Formula No. L610-11
Deodorant, Cleansing Lotion, Liquid, Clear
Texapon N40
Dehyton AB30
Hydagen DE0
Comperlan KD
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 18%
Formula No. L610-13
"/ow/w
20. 0
20.0
5. 0
2. 0
4. 0
1 . o
48. 0
"/owm
30.00
30. 00
10. 00
2 . 0 0
0. 50
1 . o o
0. 05
26. 45
"/ow f.W
40.0
5. 0
1. 5
5. 0
0. 5
48. 0
Cleansing Lotion, Clear, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Sol uvi t complex
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 11%
Formula No. L610-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%Wfly
30. 0
3. 0
2. 0
3. 0
1 . o
0. 4
60. 6
Lotions 389
Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Hydagen P
Euperlan PK7 6
Sodium chl or de
Perfume
C i t r i c aci d 0% s ol uti on
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. L610-16
%w/w
40. 0
2. 0
10.0
1. 5
1 . o
0.8
44.7
Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Dehyton K
Cuti na EGMS
Comperlan LS
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 161
Formula No. L610-18
%w/w
35.0
15.0
3.0
0 . 5
0.5
46.0
Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon ASV
Dehyton K
Cuti na EGMS
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. L610-19
%w/W
35. 0
15.0
3. 0
0.5
46.0
Cleansing Lotion, Cloudy
%w/w
Texapon N25 50.0
Lamepon S 20.0
Lamesoft 156 5. 0
Monomuls 90-L 12 2. 0
Perfume 0. 3
Water 22.7
Note: High vi scous, tube f i l l i n g , WAS 23%
P reparati on: Monomuls 90-L 12 i s di ssol ved i n the Texapon N25
and Lamepon S whi l e heat i s appl i ed. The other i ngredi ents are
then added i n the order gi ven above.
Formula No. L610-21
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
390 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Collagen and Cocoa Butter Skin Lotion
A . Cetyl Al cohol
Lanol i n, Anhydrous, USP
Kessco Gl yceryl Monostearate, pure
Cocoa Butter
Acetul an (Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetyl ated L anol i n
Tween 60 (P ol ysorbate 60)
Arl acel 60 (S orbi tan S tearate)
Proto-Lan E*
P ropylparaben
A1 coho1 )
B. Supro-Tein V
Methylparaben
Gl yceri n
Gelamide 250F
CarboDol 934,
Sorbi to1 )
TEA-COCOY
(mi 11 ed)
2% Aq. so
Deion; zed Water
C . T r i ethanol ami ne-99%
Hydrol yzed Col l agen (and)
P ol yacryl ami de)
' n (Carbomer 934)
D. Col l agen Nati ve E xtra 1% (S ol ubl e Col l agen)
Fragrance, col or
%w/w
1.50
1. 50
0.50
0.75
2. 00
0.50
0. 50
1 . oo
0.20
0.50
0.20
2.50
0.20
15.00
67- 70
0. 45
5. 00
q. s .
*( L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrolyzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosi ne (and) Sesame O i l (and)
L anol i n Al cohol )
P rocedure:
P re- di ssol ve Gelamide i n water phase. Add the r es t of the
i ngredi ents t o Phase B and heat t o 70C. Heat Phase A separatel y
X- - - - - - >to 70C. Heat Phase A separatel y t o 70C. Add Phase B t o
Phase A a t 70C. Add the TEA, Phase C . Mi x and cool t o 40C. Add
Phase D. Mi x t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es:
A superb, non-greasy, qui ck penetrati ng, s ki n softener and
moi s turi z er. Use f o r hands, face, throat - wherever troublesome
dry s ki n exi s ts .
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #SK-2005
Lotions 391
Conditioning Hand Lotion
Thi s l o t i o n moi sturi zes and softens the s ki n wi thout l eavi ng
a greasy, heavy f eel .
P art 1:
Deionized Water
Pemulen TR-1 (1)
G1 yceri n
Methyl Paraben
P ropyl Paraben
P art 2:
White P etrol atum
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Di methi cone
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art 3:
Di stearyl di moni um Chl ori de (2)
Deionized Water
P art 4:
Fragrance
Col or
Wei aht%
81. 0
0. 4
2. 0
0. 1
0.1
1 . o
2. 5
2.5
0.3
0. 1
10.0
q . s .
9 , s .
(1) BFGoodrich Co.
(2) Sherex Chemical Co. (Arosurf TA-100)
Procedure:
1. Combine dei oni zed water, gl yceri n and parabens. Wi th rapi d
agi tati on, s i f t the Pemulen TR-1 i nt o the water phase
i ngredi ents. Af ter the addi ti on o f resi n, reduce agi tati on
and conti nue mi xi ng f o r approxi matel y 30 minutes whi l e
heati ng the mi xture t o 70C.
2. Combine the o i l phase i ngredi ents i n P art 2 and heat t o 70C
wi th mi xi ng.
3. Form the emulsion by sl owl y adding the o i l phase t o the
water phase wi th rapi d agi tati on. Al l ow 15-20 minutes addi -
ti onal mi xi ng ti me.
4. Di sperse the Dimethyldimonium chl ori de i nt o the avai l abl e
water i n P art 3 and add t hi s mi xture t o the emulsion, wi th
mi xi ng.
5 . Add col or, and fragrance as needed.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Formula PO014
392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Dry Skin Care Lotion
(Formula 92-0729)
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
S orbi tol 70%
Tri ethanol ami ne
Sodium Chl ori de
(99%)
P art B:
Mi neral O i l
P etrol atum
L anol i n
Lanol i n A1 coho1
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol N.F.
P art C:
Fragrance, P reservati ve
Bl endi ns P rocedure:
% BY Weiaht
74 I 43
3.00
1. 85
0.02
7.00
3.00
3.00
3.00
2.50
1. 75
q . s .
Step 1 (P art A) :
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and add s or bi tol , tri ethanol ami ne
and sodium chl ori de. Heat wi th mi xi ng t o 70C.
SteD 2 (P art B) :
Charge "P art B" components i nt o a vessel and heat wi th gentl e
mi xi ng t o 70-75C, bei ng sure that a l l components are mel ted.
SteD 3:
When both parts are a t 70-75C, add "P art B" t o "P art A" wi th
good mi xi ng, and mix f i f t een minutes a t 70C. Af ter emulsion i s
homogeneous, begi n cool i ng wi th moderate agi tati on.
Step 4 (P art C l :
A t 40C, add remainder o f components and cool wi th agi tati on t o
25C.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
Appearance a t 25C: S l i ghtl y of f - whi te l o t i o n
Vi s cos i ty at 25C (RVT #5 @ 20 rpm): 15,000-20,000 cps
CTFA I denti f i cati on:
Water, mi neral oi 1, petrol atum, sorbi to1 , 1 anol i n, 1 anol i n
al cohol , s tear i c aci d, tri ethanol ami ne, cetyl al cohol , fragrance,
preservati ve, sodium chl ori de.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants I% S peci al ti es : Formula 92-0729
pH (10%): 7.5-8.0
Lotions 393
Emollient Care Lotion
I ngredi ent: %w/w
1 Cuti na FS25 5. 0
2 C eti ol B 9. 0
3 S i pol 1618 C50 2. 0
4 Cuti na MD 2. 0
5 KOH (20%) 1.75
6 P reservati ve q. s.
7 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a vi scous, medium wei ght O/W s ki n
l o t i on.
The f i r s t f our components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Component 5 i s di ssol ved i n the water which i s heated t o the
same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added t o the water
phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 502
Cleansing Lotion
I nsredi ent:
%w/w
1 Emulgade SE 8 . 0
2 C eti ol B 9. 0
3 C eti ol MM 4.0
4 Cyclomethicone 345 0. 5
5 Natrosol ( H. E . C . ) 0. 5
6 P reservati ve q . s .
7 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a medium wei ght O/W s ki n l oti on.
The f i r s t three components are mel ted together at about 85C.
Component 5 i s di ssol ved i n the water which i s heated t o the
same temperature. The o i l phase i s then added t o the water
phase, al s o at about 85C, and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue
down t o about 35C. The Cyclomethicone can then be added.
Formula TS 503
Viscous Body Milk
I ngredi ent: %w/w
1 Emulgade SE 7. 0
2 Cegesoft C24 7. 0
3 Novata AB 4.0
4 P reservati ve q . s .
5 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a very l i g h t O/W s ki n l o t i o n w i t h a
vi scous consi stency.
The f i r s t three components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase, al s o a t about
85C, and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
F ormul ati on TS 505
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
394 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Fluid
I naredi ent:
1 Cuti na E24
2 Ceti ol 1414E
3 Cuti na MD
4 S i pol 1618 C50
5 Urea
6 Gl yceri ne
7 P reservati ve
8 Water
%w/w
2.0
5.0
2.0
2.0
3.0
2.0
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a hi gh vi s cos i ty O/W L oti on wi th good
emol l i ence, and a very pl easant, l i g h t s ki n f eel .
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 6 & 7 are di ssol ved i n the water and heated t o the
same temperature as the o i l phase. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 451
Cleansing Lotion
I ngredi ent:
1 Cuti na E24
2 Ceti ol 1414E
3 Cuti na MD
4 S i pol 1618 C50
5 Urea
6 Gl yceri ne
7 P reservati ve
8 Water
%w/w
2.0
10.0
2.0
2.0
3.0
2.0
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves an O/W l o t i o n wi th good emol l i ence,
and a very pl easant s ki n f eel .
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 6 & 7 are di ssol ved i n the water and heated t o the
same temperature as the o i l phase. The o i l phase i s then added
t o the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down
t o about 35C.
Formula TS 452
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Lotions 395
Emollient Fluid
I naredi ent :
%w/W
1 Eumulgin B2 1.5
2 Myri tol 318 5. 0
3 Eutanol G 5. 0
4 Novata A 0 4. 0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 1. 5
6 Cuti na MD 3. 5
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100. 0
emol 1 i ency .
The water i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l
phase. The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and
di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 461
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i ght , vi scous O/W l oti on, wi th good
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
General Hand and Body Lotion
I ngredi ent:
1 Generol 122 E25
%w/w
3.0
2 Eutanol G 10.0
3 Novata AB 5. 1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
5 Lorol C16 1. 1
6 Lorol C18 1. 1
7 P reservat i ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a f a i r l y heavy O/W emol i ent l oti on.
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o 35C.
Formula TS 485
Hand & Body Lotion
I nnredi ent : %w/w
1 Generol 122 E25 3. 0
2 Eutanol G 10. 0
3 C eti ol SB45 5. 1
4 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
5 S i pol 1618 C50 2. 2
6 Dow Corni ng 345 F l ui d 4. 0
7 P reservati ve q . s .
8 Water t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l ow vi s cos i ty O/ W emol l i ent l oti on.
The f i r s t f i ve components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
The water i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The o i l phase i s then added t o the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C. The vo l a t i l e 345
F l ui d can now be added and the product homogenised.
Formula TS 486
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Lotion
%w/w
A . Amerchol L-101 (Mi neral O i l (and) L anol i n Al cohol ) 3. 00
Acetul an (Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetyl ated L anol i n
A1 coho1 ) 2. 00
S teari c Aci d T.P. 4. 00
Mi neral O i l , 70 vi s . 15.00
*Proto-Lan 4R 2.50
Arl acel 165 (Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG-100 S tearate) 1.50
B. Dei oni zed Water
G1 yceri n
T r i ethanol ami ne
Methylparaben
Sol ul an L-575 (PEG-75 Lanol i n )
Glydant (DMDM Hydantoi n)
Fragrance, col or
60 I 40
4. 00
2. 00
0. 20
5. 00
0. 40
q. s .
*(Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Col l agen (and) Mi neral O i l (and)
Hydrogenated L anol i n (and) E mul si fyi ng wax N. F . (and)
Myri s ty1 Myri s tate)
Procedure:
1. Heat Phases A and B separatel y t o 80C.
2. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 80C wi th agi tati on.
3. Mi x and cool t o 40C.
4. Add Phase C . Mi x t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es :
A water i n o i l emulsion which exhi bi ts consi derabl e s l i p i n
appl i cati on. Hi ghl y emol l i ent wi th consi derabl e s ki n s of teni ng
ef f ects . An ef f i c i ent moi s turi zer us i ng the occl us i ve nature
o f mi neral o i l t o tr ap moi sture i n the s ki n and the hygroscopi c
acti on o f gl yceri n and col l agen t o at t r ac t moi sture t o the s ki n.
Note: Addi ti on o f 2-3% Col l agen Nati ve E xtra 1% (S ol ubl e C ol l -
agen) makes t h i s an excel l ent nutr i ent eye cream.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #SK-2003
Lotiom 397
Emollient Lotion
A: Dei oni zed Water 37.60%
P ecosi l WDS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) 3.00
Carbomer 934 (2% Aq.) 25.00
P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.70
B: Pelemol GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Pelemol I SL ( I s os tearyl Lactate)
Macademia Nut O i l
Cetearyl Al cohol
P el emol BB (Behenyl Behenate)
Dimethicone (5,000 cs)
Pelemol OPG (Octyl P el argonate)
2. 00
4.00
7.20
2. 00
2. 00
0.50
2. 00
8. 00
C: Germaben I 1 1- 00
Procedure:
Heat phase A t o 70-75C. Heat phase B t o 70-75C. Agi tate both
phase A and B u n t i l uni form. Under homogenization add phase B
t o phase A. When uni form, change t o prop. agi tati on and cool
t o 45C. Add phase C t o AB, and conti nue prop. agi tati on t o 35C.
Formula 14-110-A
Light Body Lotion
(Cold Mix)
A: Dei oni zed Water 50.10%
Pecosi 1 PS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) 3.00
Carbopol 934 (2% As . ) 25. 00
8: Pelemol ICE ( I s ocetyl Behenate)
Pelemol EE (E i cosyl Erucate)
10. 00
10. 00
C : Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0. 90
D: Germaben I1 1 . oo
Procedure:
Combine phase A wi th sweep agi tati on. Combine phase B. Under
homogenization, add phase B t o phase A. When uni form, swi tch t o
propel l er agi tati on and add phase C then phase D.
Formula 14-115-A
SOURCE: Phoeni x Chemi cal , I nc I : Suggested Formul a t i ons
398 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Lotion
- A P ropylene Gl ycol
Dei oni zed Water
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c at e
Xanthan Gum
5.00%
71 .88
0.75
0.25
- B Pecosi 1 PS-200 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) 3.00
NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) 0.12
- C Pelemol GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Pelemol I SB ( I s os tearyl Behenate)
Pelemol 89 (Octyl I sononanoate)
Cetearyl Al cohol
Dimethicone (5000 cs)
5.00
5.00
5.00
2.00
1. 00
- D Germaben I 1 1 . oo
P rocedure:
1. Prewet Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c at e and Xanthan Gum wi th the
P ropylene Gl ycol . 2. Homogenize t h i s s l ur r y i nt o phase 4 water.
3. When phase A i s uni form, add phase B t o phase A wi th sweep
agi tati on and heat t o IO-75C. 4. Heat phase C t o 70-75C wi th
adequate agi tati on. 5. Homogenize phase i n t o AB. 6. When
uni form, swi tch t o sweep agi tati on and cool t o 45C. 7. Add phase
- D and conti nue cool i ng and sweep agi tati on t o 35C.
Formula 14-111-8
Light Body Lotion
- A Deionized Water 67.30%
P ecosi l PS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) 2.70
Carbomer 934 (2% Aq.) 10.00
Xanthan Gum 0.30
Germaben I 1 1 .oo
- B Pelemol SPO (Cetyl / S tearyl Octanoate)
P el emol DI A ( Di i sopropyl Adi pate)
9.00
9.00
- C Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.70
P rocedure
When uni form, add remainder o f phase A i tems. Continue prop.
agi tati on whi l e adding phase 11 t o phase A. Mi x unt i l
uni form then add phase C. Af ter &, 8, and C are combined,
homogenize t o obtai n f i ni s hed l oti on.
Formula 14-1 06-A
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc, : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Wi th prop. agi tati on di sperse Xanthan Gum i n D . I . water.
Lotions 399
Face Lotion
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Water
Formula No. 651-01
Herbal Face Lotion
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Sedaplant Ri chter
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. 851-02
Herbal Face Lotion
C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Hexaplant Ri chter
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Formula No. 851-03
Herbal Face Lotion
C eti ol HE
E thyl Al cohol 96%
Hexaplant Ri chter
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
A1 1 antoi n
Water
Formula No. 851-04
Astringent Tonic
C eti ol HE
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
E thyl al cohol 96%
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% s ol uti on
Water
Formula No. 851-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
3.0
25. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 5
6 5 . 5
%w/w
2. 0
20. 0
5. 0
3. 0
70.0
e
2.0
15.0
5. 0
3. 0
75.0
m W
2. 0
30. 0
5. 0
2. 0
0. 2
60. 8
3 . 0
3 . 0
25.0
10.0
0. 3
30. 0
28. 7
400 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fragrance Lotion
Thi s gl ossy, whi te l o t i o n i mparts s l i ght emol l i ency from a
smooth, grease1 ess appl i c ati on.
I ngredi ent (CTFA):
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
G1 ycer i n
Dimethicone Copolyol (1)
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate (2)
Fragrance, Novi l l e #24093
Oleth-10 ( 3)
Pemulen TR-1 (4)
Carbopol 981 (5)
P art C :
Aminomethyl P ropanol (95%) (6)
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) D i azo1 i d i nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben (7)
(1) 193 S urfactant (Dow Corning)
12) F i ns ol v TN (F i natex)
Wei aht%
88.50
4.00
0.30
0.10
3.00
2.00
0.20
0.25
0.35
0.50
0.80
F uncti on
Di 1 uent
Humectant
Lubri cant
Chel ati ng Agent
Emol l i ent/F rag-
rance F i xer
P ar ti c l e S i ze
Reduct i on
Emu1 s i f i er
Thickener
Neutral i zi ng
Agent
P reservati ve
(3) P rocol OA-10 (Protameen Chemicals), B r i j 96 ( I C I )
(4) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(5) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(6) AMP-95 (Angus Chemical)
(7) Germaben I 1 (S utton Labs)
P reparati on:
1. Blend P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which wi 11 contai n the
enti r e formul ati on.
2. Bl end P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Pemulen and
Carbopol shoul d be s l ur r i ed i n t h i s phase. Di srupt any
s o f t lumps o f these res i ns .
minutes. Add P art C and mix vi gorous l y t o produce a glossy,
whi te product.
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mi x f o r 15-20
4. Mi x P art D i nt o emulsion.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Formula PO005
Lotions 401
Fragrance Lotion
Ingredients: % by Wei ght
A . D eioniz ed water 8 8 . 5 0
Gl y cerin 4. 0 0
Dimethicone Copolyol 0.30
Di sodium EDTA 0.10
8. C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate 3.00
Fragrance, N e v i l l e #24093 2.00
Oleth-10 0.20
Pemulen TR-1 0.25
Carbopol 981 0.35
C. AMP-95 0.50
D. Propylene Glycol (and) D i azo li d i n yl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 0.80
Procedure:
1. Blend Part A ingredients in a v essel which w i l l contain the
entire f o r m u lat i o n .
2. Blend Part B i n g r e d i e n t s in a separate v essel. Pemulen and
Carbopol should be s lu r r i e d in t h i s phase. Disrupt any soft
lumps of these resins.
3. W i t h moderate ag i t at i o n , add Part B to Part A. Mix for 15-20
minutes. Add Part C and mix v igorously to produce a glossy,
white product.
4. Mix Part D into e m u ls i o n .
Formulation PF-0223 suggested by B.F.Goodrich
Emollient Lotion
Ingredi ents: % by Weight
Part A:
Water 83.80
Part B:
Tromethamine magnesium al u m i n u m s i li c at e (Veegum Pro) 1.50
Part C:
Tr i e t h an o lam i n e 0.10
Glyc e r i n 3.50
Part D:
Mi n e r al Oi l 3.60
Petrolatum 0.40
Stearic Acid XXX 1.60
Cetyl alcohol 1 .50
Glyceryl stearate SE 1.40
Cetyl acetate (and) acetylated l an o l i n alcohol 2.00
Dimethicone 0.60
Part E:
Preserv ativ e, dye, fragrance q.s.
Procedure:
Heat A to 70-75C; slowly add B w h i l e ag i t at i n g at maximum
av ai l ab l e shear. Mix u n t i l smooth. Add C to AB w i t h slow agit-
ation u n t i l uniform. Mai n t ai n at 70-75C. Heat to 75-80C. Add D to
ABC; mix u n t i l cool. Add E; package.
Formulation PF-0273 suggested by Van d e r bi lt
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus Product Formulary
402 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gentle Cleansing Lotion
A gentl e, non-greasy cl eanser designed t o ef f ec ti vel y di ssol ve
makeup and i mpuri ti es wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s natural
moi sture balance. Leaves s ki n f eel i ng thoroughl y cleansed,
supple and moi sturi zed. I deal f o r dry or s ens i ti ve s ki n.
I naredi ents/ Trade Name: % by Weiaht
A: Dei oni zed Water 76.31
Sodi u m PCA/Aj i dew N-50 0.50
Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 0. 05
P ropylene G1 ycol 2.00
Methylparaben 0.20
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12 10.00
PEG-40 Hydrogenated-Castor Oil/Cremophor RH-40 1 . oo
PEG-I50 Di stearate/Li popeg 6000DS 1. 00
Gl ycol Stearate/Lexemul EGMS 1 . oo
P ropylparaben 0.10
C: I mi daz ol i di nyl Urea/Germall 115 0. 20
D: Fragrance/Manheimer #137G 0. 04
Manufacturi ng Procedure:
Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase 8 t o 75C. Add Phase B t o
Phase A whi l e mi xi ng wi th good agi tati on. Mix f o r 20 minutes
a t 75C. S tar t cool i ng. A t 50C, add Phase C . A t 40C, add Phase
D. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 30C.
Appearance: Opaque, whi te l oti on
Vi s cos i ty: 1,700 t o 2,500 cps (LVT #3 @ 12 rpm @ 25C)
PEG-78 Gl yceryl Cocoate/Vari oni c LI - 67 1.50
8: Gl yceryl S tearate SE/Lexemul 55SE 2.50
Cetearyl Al cohol / Lanette 0 3. 60
PH: 5. 20- 5. 60
Milk Lotion
( 0 ) L i qui d P araf f i n (#70)
P araf f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
Cetyl Al cohol
S orbi tan Monostearate
P ol yoxyethyl ene ( 20) S orbi tan Monooleate
Tocopherol Acetate
Water
P reservati ve
(W) Aj i dew T-50
P rocedure:
1. Heat
2. Add
3. Cool
pH: 6. 2
Vi s cos i ty:
SOURCE: A j
( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C.
W) t o ( 0 ) wi th agi tati on.
t o 42C wi th s t i r r i n g .
25,000 cps
nomoto USA, I nc , : Suggested F ormul ati ons
31 . 6 wt %
4. 5
4. 5
1. 8
2. 8
0. 2
4. 0
50. 5
0. 1
Lotions 403
Hand Lotion
Thick white lotion. Absorbs well, is not greasy
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A: Mi neral O i l 1 . OO%
Cetyl Al cohol 1 .oo
S teari c Aci d 1 .50
Bel s i 1 CM 030/Cyclornethicone 5. 00
B el s i l SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di si loxane 23.00
B: Tri ethanol ami ne
P ropylene G1 ycol
Wasser dest./Water
P reservati ves, perfume
Heat A and B each t o 85C, s t i r A i nt o B, cool whi l s t
s t i r r i ng.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 132 AH
0. 80
3. 00
84. 70
q. s .
Hand Lotion
Thick, white lotion. Easily spread, quickly absorbed.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : B el s i l SDM 6022/Dimethicone (and) Stearoxy Di methyl -
s i l ane (and) Stearoxy Di methyl di s i l oxane 4.00%
Ol ei c Aci d 1 S O
B: Morpho1 i ne
Wasser des t. /Water
C: Carbopol 934 Lsg 2%isg/Carbomer 934
P reservati ves, perfume
0.30
89. 20
5. 00
q.s
Heat A and B t o 60C, mix together whi l s t s t i r r i n g qui ckl y.
Mix C t o AB a t 45C under hi gh shear condi ti ons . F i l l a t over
40C.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: 8 weeks a t 45C.
F ormul ati on 156 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
404 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
Mater i a1 /CTFA-I ndex :
Water
78,30%
Carbopol 934/Carbomer 934 0. 40
Bel s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.)Dimethiconol 11 . 50
Mi neral O i 1 ( hi gh vi s cos i ty) a. 50
T r i s A mi no/Tromethami ne 0. 20
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments q . s .
Add Carbopol 934 t o water wi th good agi tati on. Add the other
i ngredi ents i n t h i s order.
Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 8 weeks.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 340 AH
Gentle Cleansing Lotion
A gentl e, non-greasy cl eanser designed t o ef f ec ti vel y di s s ol ve
makeup and i mpuri ti es wi thout di s turbi ng the s ki n' s natural
moi sture bal ance, Leaves s ki n f eel i ng thoroughl y cleansed,
supple and moi sturi zed. I deal f or dry or s ens i ti ve s ki n.
_____ I ngredi ents/Trade Name % bv W t
A) Deionized Water 76.31
Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N- 50
0. 50
Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 0. 05
P roovl ene G1 vcol
2. 00
Methyl parabe;
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12
0. 20
10. 00
PEG-40 Hydrogenated-Castor Oil/Cremophor RH-40 1 . oo
PEG-150 D i stearate/Li popeg 6000DS 1 . oo
G1 ycol Stearate/Lexemul EGMS 1 . oo
P ropylparaben 0. 10
C) I mi dazol i di nyl Urea/Germall 115 0. 20
D) Fragrance/Manheimer #137G 0. 04
Manufacturi ng P rocedure:
Heat phase A t o 75C. Heat phase B t o 75C. Add phase B t o
phase A whi l e mi xi ng wi th good agi tati on. Mi x f or 20 minutes
a t 75C. S tar t cool i ng. A t 50C, add phase C . A t 40C, add phase
D. Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng t o 30C.
Appearance: Opaque, whi te l oti on
Vi s cos i ty: 1,700 t o 2, 500 (LVT #3 C 12 rpm @ 25C)
PEG-78 Gl yceryl Cocoate/Varionic LI - 67 1. 50
B) Gl yceryl S tearate SE/Lexemul 55SE 2 . 5 0
Cetearyl Al cohol /Lanette 0 3. 60
pH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 6 0
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested F ormul ati on
Lotions 405
Intensive Treatment Lotion
(Formula 91-1101)
Water Phase:
~W-1 Water
Gl yceri ne (99%)
P ropylene Gl ycol
Cheelox 100 (Dow)
?4 Bv Weight
84.25
3.50
0.15
0.10
w-2 Carbopol 934 (Goodrich) 0.20
w-3 Rhodigel EZ 0.15
w-.r Tri ethanol ami ne (99%) 1.35
O i l Phase:
Drakeol 9 (Penreco)
S teari c Aci d TP
A1 kamul s EGMS
A1 kamuls SPS
A1 kamuls GMS
Cetyl Al cohol NF
Mi r as i l DM 300
S ol ul an 75 (Amerchol)
3.50
1.50
1.50
1. 00
1 . oo
1.50
0. 20
0. 10
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve Q. S.
Bl endi ng P rocedure:
(1) Combine W- 1 i ngredi ents and heat t o 50-55C.
(2) Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, l i g h t l y s i f t W-2 i nt o heated W-1.
Conti nue heati ng system t o 75-8OC. Mi x u n t i l uni form.
(3) Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end W-3 i nt o heated
system. Mix u n t i l compl etel y di spersed.
(4) Sl owl y bl end W-4 i nt o heated water system. The system shoul d
thi cken noti ceabl y wi th t h i s addi ti on.
(5) I n a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine O i l Phase i ngredi ents .
Wi th smooth agi tati on, warm t o 75-80C (avoi d scorchi ng).
(6) Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end the heated
O i l Phase i nt o the heated (75-8OC) Water Phase. Mix u n t i l
compl etel y uni form.
(7) Wi th moderate agi tati on, sl owl y cool system t o 35-40C and
add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance Af ter 24 Hrs: Smooth, Opaque L oti on
pH (10% Aq. ): 7. 5- 9. 0
% Non Vol ati l es : 14.5-16.5
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Gl yceri ne, Mi neral O i l , Gl ycol
Stearate, Cetyl Al cohol , S teari c Acid, Tri ethanol ami ne, Cetyl
E sters, Gl yceryl S tearate, Dimethicone, Carbomer 934, Xanthan
Gum, P ropylene Gl ycol , PEG-75 Lanol i n, Tetrasodium EDTA, Frag-
rance, P reservati ve, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula 91-1101
406 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Protective Day Lotion
I ns redi ent :
1 Cuti na MD
2 S i pol 16-18 C50
3 C eti ol MM
4 Eumulgin B2
5 Eutanol G
6 Myri tol 318
7 Eusolex 6300
8 Repai r Complex CLR
9 E l as ti n CLR
10 P reservat i ve
11 Water
Q%&f J
3. 5
1. 5
4. 0
1. 5
5. 0
5. 0
0.75
5. 0
2. 0
q . s .
t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i ghtwei ght O/W l oti on, wi th a hi gh
vi s cos i ty, which hel ps t o protect the s ki n from harmful UV
Rays, and al s o ai ds s ki n c e l l removal. The f i r s t seven comp-
onents are heated together t o 85C. The water i s heated t o the
same temperature. The o i l phase i s then mixed i nt o the water
phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Components ei ght and ni ne can then be i ncorporated, and the
product homogeni sed.
Formula TS 255
Pearlescent Lotion
I ns redi ent:
1 Cuti na E24
2 C eti ol B
3 Myri tol 318
4 Monomuls 90 L12
5 S i pol 1618 C50
6 C eti ol MM
7 Carbopol 980
8 NaOH (10%)
9 Gl yceri ne
10 P reservati ve
11 Water
%w/w
5. 0
5. 0
2. 0
5. 0
2. 0
5. 0
0. 1
0. 4
5. 0
q . s .
t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a moderately vi scous O/W s ki n l o t i o n
wi th pearl sheen appearance.
The f i r s t s i x components are mel ted together at about 85C.
Component 7 i s di ssol ved i n hal f the water wi th vi gorous mi xi ng.
Components 8 & 9 are di ssol ved i n the other hal f . The two hal ves
o f the water phase are added together and heated t o the same
temperature as the o i l phase. The o i l phase i s then added t o
the water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o
about 35C. The pearl appearance begi ns t o develop af ter a few
hours.
Formula TS 441
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Lotions 407
Low Solids Mild Cationic Lotion
The f ol l owi ng formul ati on i s an i deal s tar ti ng poi nt f o r
face, body, or baby s ki n moi sturi zers. It i s a low s ol i ds
(7. 67 by wei ght) versi on of SC-183 possessing the same f eel
characteri s ti cs - a pl easant cushiony f eel , no tacky water phase,
and a moi st rubdown. I t dri es more qui ckl y, wi th a powdery
cati oni c l ong l as ti ng af ter f eel .
P art A:
I ncroquat Behenyl TMS (Behentrimonium Methosul fate (and)
Polawax (E mul si fyi ng Wax NF)
Crodacol S-95 (S tearyl Al cohol )
Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 Myri s tyl Ether P ropi onate)
Crodamol PTC ( P entaerythri tyl Tetra Caprate)
Carnati on Mi neral 011
Snow White P etrol atum
D i methi cone 200SF (350 cps)
P art B:
Water, dei oni zed
G l ycer i n
P art C :
Germaben I 1
Hydrotri ti cum 2000 (Hydrolyzed Whole Wheat P rotei n)
Cetearyl Al cohol )
%
1. 17
1 .oo
0.33
1 .oo
0. 67
1 .oo
2. 00
0.50
82.33
8. 00
1 . oo
1. 00
Procedure:
Combine i ngredi ents o f P art A wi th mi xi ng and heat t o 75C
Combine i ngredi ents o f P art 8 wi th mi xi ng and heat t o 75C.
Add P art B t o P art A wi th good mi xi ng. Continue mi xi ng and
cool t o 45C. Add P art C wi th mi xi ng and cool t o desi red f i l l
temperature.
SOURCE: Croda, I nc. : Formula SC-192-1
Normal Skin Lotion
A l i ght emol l i ent l o t i o n f o r hand, body and f ac i al use.
Appl i es eas i l y, spreads on s ki n wi thout drag, and i s r api dl y
absorbed,
A. Gl yceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate
( I C I , Arl acel 165)
S teari c Aci d, TP
Mink O i l (Emulan, L i ght F racti on)
PEG-5 Soya S terol (Henkel, Generol 122E5)
Soy S terol (Henkel, Generol 122)
0 . Water
C . Germaben I 1 (Sutton)
P rocedure:
S t i r cool t o 45C. Add Phase C .
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : SugOested F ormul ati on
Fragrance
Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A vi a propel l or agi tati on
5. 0
1. 0
5.0
2. 0
1 . o
84.8
1 . o
0. 2
408 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lubriderm Type Lotion
D i s t i 1 l ed Water
Ri tavena 5
S orbi tol 70% Sol n.
F orl an 500
Cetyl Al cohol
Mi neral O i l
S teari c Aci d
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
TEA (50%)
pH: 7. 8
Vi s cos i ty: 3835 cps
S tabi 1 i ti es:
Freeze/Thaw: v. s l . sep. af ter 1 cycl e
40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks
I l OF : separati on af ter 3 weeks
Descri pti on o f System: oi 1/0. 5% Ri tavena 5
Centri fuge Resul ts af ter 7 Mi n I3 1660rpm: very s l i ght
Formula 111-187
Lubriderm Type Lotion
D i s t i 11 ed Water
Ri tavena 5
S orbi tol 70% Sol n.
F orl an 500
Cetyl Al cohol
Mi neral O i l
S teari c Aci d
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
TEA (50%)
pH: 8. 0
Vi s cos i ty: 4350 cps
Stabi 1 i ti es :
Freeze/Thaw: no change af ter 3 cycl es
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
l l OF : separati on af ter 4 weeks
Descri pti on o f System: o i l / ? % Ri tavena 5
Formula 111-188
Wt%
78.10
0.50
3.50
6.00
0.70
8.00
2. 00
0.15
0. 05
1. 00
Wt%
77- 60
1- 00
3.50
6. 00
0. 70
8.00
2. 00
0.15
0.05
1- 00
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : RI TAVENA 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
Lotions 409
Lubriderm Type Lotion with Ritavena 5
I nnredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water 67.60
2. S orbi tol 70% S ol uti on 3.50
P art B:
3. Di s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00
4 . Ri tavena 5 1- 00
P art C :
5. F orl an 500 6. 00
6. R i ta C 0. 70
7. Mi neral O i l 85/95 8. 00
8 . S teari c Aci d 2. 00
9. Methylparaben 0. 15
10.P ropylparaben 0. 05
P art D:
11 . Tri ethanol ami ne (50%) 1 . oo
Compounding P rocedure:
Heat P art A and P art C t o 165F. Combine wi th agi tati on. Add
P art D and mai ntai n heat f o r 10 mi nutes. Premix P art B i n a
bl ender f or 2 mi nutes. Add t o mi xture. Mix u n t i l uni form.
Cool wi th agi tati on t o 95F.
Formula 111-188
Low Solids Anionic Lotion with Ritavena 5
I ngredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00
2 . Ritavena 5 2. 00
P art 0 :
3. Di s t i l l e d Water 72.62
4 . P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
5. R i ta CA 3. 00
6. P ati oni c I S L 2. 00
7. Tauranol 1-78-6 1. 25
8. P atl ac I L 1- 00
9 . P atl ac NAL 1 .oo
10 . Gl yceri n 1 .oo
11. Ri tapro 165 0. 40
12.Methylparaben 0. 15
13,P ropylparaben 0. 15
P art C :
14.Germall I 1 0. 20
15. Perfume 0.10
16. Col or 0. 03
17. P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on) 0.20
Compounding Procsdures:
Heat P art B t o 165F wi th agi tati on. Mai ntai n 165F f or 10
mi nutes. Premix P art A i n a bl ender f o r 2 mi nutes. Add t o P art
B. Mi x u n t i l uni form. Cool wi th agi tati on t o 120F. Add P art C .
Cool t o 95F. Adj ust pH t o 5.0+-0.2 wi th P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on)
Formula 11 1-201
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : RITAVENA 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
410 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Lotion with Amihope
I nqredi ents: % by Weight
Phase A:
Mi neral O i l 5. 00
Ami t e r LGOD (Di - Octyl dodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate) 2.00
P ropylene Gl ycol S tearate 0 . 5 0
PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 . 50
PEG-5 Gl yceryl S tearate 2. 50
Butyl paraben 0. 10
Ami hope-LL 3. 00
Phase B:
Acyl gl utamate HS-11 0. 30
Carbomer 941 0. 20
Sodi um Hydroxi de 0. 08
Butyl ene G1 ycol 5. 00
Methylparaben 0. 20
Water 79.62
Procedure:
Add a l l other i ngredi ents o f Phase B t o the s ol uti on and di ssol ve
a t 75 t o 80 degrees centi grade.
Di ssol ve Phase A i ngredi ents at 80 degrees centi grade. When
both phases are a t 80 degrees Centi grade add A t o B wi th agi ta-
ti on.
Di ssol ve Carbomer 941 and sodium hydroxi de i n water f i r s t .
Cool down t o room temperature whi l e conti nui ng mi xi ng.
Thi s l oti on has a smooth f eel i ng and good s preadabi l i ty.
Formula No. NON-404
W/O Lotion With Eldew
I nqredi ents/ Trade Name: % by Weight
P art A:
Di - ( C hl ol es teryl , behenyl , octyl dodecyl )
N- Lauroyl - L- gl utami c aci d ester/Eldew CL-301 2. 00
Cetearyl Octanoate 10. 00
C1 2-Cl5 A1 kyl Benzoate 5. 00
Phenoxyethanol 0. 60
Tocopherol Acetate 0. 05
P art 8:
P ol ygl yceryl - 4 I sostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone
Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate 5. 00
Cetyl Dimethicone 3. 00
P art C :
Dei oni zed Water 65. 55
Sodi um Chl ori de 0. 80
Gl yceri n (99.5%) 5. 00
P ar ti al l y Deacetyl ated C hi ti n (1 .O%)/Marine Dew 2.00
P art D:
Methylparaben 0. 20
Butyl ene Gl ycol 0.80
P rocedure:
A . P re-melt P art D by heati ng t o 50 degrees C . Add t o P art C .
Sl owl y add P art C and D mi xture t o P arts A and B wi th hi gh shear
mi xi ng.
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
P re-melt P art A at 50 degrees Centi grade. Add P art B t o P art
Lotions 411
Moisturizing Hand and Body Lotion
I ngredi ent:
o/,w/w
1 Cuti na MD 3. 5
2 Stenol 16-65 1. 2
3 Eumulgin 82 2. 0
4 Eutanol G 4. 5
5 Hygroplex HHG (CLR) 2. 0
6 P reservati ve 9 , s .
7 Water t o 100.0
vi s cos i ty, which hel ps t o s ti mul ate the s ki n' s natural regen-
er ati ve powers I
The f i r s t f our components are heated together t o 85C.
Component f i ve i s then added t o the water and t h i s mi xture i s
al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase i s then mixed i nt o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o
about 35C.
Formula TS 116
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a l i g h t O/W l oti on, wi th a low
Regenerative Lotion
I ngredi ent : $w/w
1 Emulgade CL speci al 20.0
2 Repair Complex CLR 10.0
3 P reservati ve q . s .
4 Water t o 100. 0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a medium wei ght O/W cream which hel ps
t o s ti mul ate the s ki n' s natural regenerati ve powers.
The Emulgade i s added t o the water and the mi xture i s heated
t o about 85C. The Emulgade i s then di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d
conti nue down t o about 35C when the Repair Complex can be
added.
Formula TS 230
Sunflower Oil Body Lotion
I ngredi ent: %w/w
1 Generol 122 E10 9. 8
2 Monomuls 60-35 5. 0
3 C eti ol SB45 5. 0
4 Sunflower O i l 10. 0
5 Henkel Gl yceri ne 5.0
6 P reservati ve q . s .
7 Water t o 100. 0
attr ac ti ve pearl sheen appearance. I t i s o f medium consi stency
wi th a cari ng s ki n f eel .
Component f i ve i s di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase can then be added t o the
water phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about
35c 9
Formula TS 412
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a heavy O/W L oti on which has an
The f i r s t f our components are heated together t o 85C.
412 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lotion
Thi s l o t i o n exhi bi ts the s o f t f eel and emol l i ency o f a
tr adi ti onal s tearate soap f ormul ati on wi thout the greasiness
and potenti al i r r i t a t i o n . It i s eas i l y absorbed and i s formul ated
t o gi ve a pH o f 6.
I naredi ent (CTFA) :
P art A:
Deionized Water
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul os e (1)
G1 ycer i n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
P etrol a t um
Mi neral O i l (2)
G1 ycol S tearate
I s os tearyl Benzoate (3)
P araf f i n
Dimethicone (100 cs . )
Pemulen TR-1 (4)
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) Di azo1 i di nyl
(1 .O% S ol uti on)
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben (5)
(1) Methocel E4M (Dow Chemical)
(2) Drakeol 7 (Penreco)
Wei aht%
72.20
10.00
2.00
0.05
5.00
3.00
2. 00
2.00
2.00
0.50
0.30
0.25
0.70
_____ F uncti on
D i 1 uent
Aqueous Smooth-
i ng Ai d
Humectant
Chel ati ng Agent
Moi sture Barri er
Moi sture Barri er
Emoll i ent/
Opaci f i er
E mol l i ent
Opaci f i er
Lubri cant
E mul s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
Neutral i z
Agent
P reservat
"g
ve
i 3) F i ns ol v SB'(F i netex)
(4) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(5) Germaben I I E (Sutton Labs)
P reparat i on :
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
2. Combine a l l P art B i ngredi ents except Pemulen i n a separate
3. Confirm that P art B i s homogeneous and at the s peci f i ed
vessel . Heat both phases t o 60-65C.
temperature. Add Pemulen t o t h i s phase. Agi tate t o break-
up s of t lumps o f res i n. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, promptl y
add P art B t o P art A. Mai ntai n temperature a t 60C.
i s apparent, Add P art C (tri ethanol ami ne) and di sconti nue
heati ng. Continue vi gorous agi tati on t o produce a smooth
product.
5. When the temperature f a l l s to 40-45C add P art D. Continue
mi xi ng u n t i l the product temperature i s 30-35C. Cease
agi tati on and f i l l contai ners.
4 . Mi x f o r 15-30 minutes or u n t i l a smooth, non-grainy di s pers i on
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co . : Formula PO001
Lotions 413
Moisturizing Lotion
I nqredi ents:
P art A :
Deionized water
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose (1 .090
Gl yceri n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
P etrol atum
Mi neral O i l
Gl ycol S tearate
I s os tearyl Benzoate
P araf f i n
Dimethicone (110 cs . )
Pemulen TR-1
P art C:
AMP-95
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl
paraben (and) P ropylparaben
% bv Weisht
72.25
s ol uti on) 10. 00
2. 00
0. 05
5. 00
3. 00
2. 00
2. 00
2. 00
0. 50
0. 30
0 . 2 0
Urea (and) Methyl -
0. 70
P rocedure:
Combine A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l homogeneous. Combine a l l B
i ngredi ents except Pemulen i n a separate vessel . Heat both phases
t o 60-65C. Confirm that B i s homogeneous and a t the s peci f i ed
temperature. Add Pemulen t o t h i s phase. Agi tate t o break-up s of t
lumps o f res i n. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, promptl y add B t o A .
Mai ntai n temperature a t 60C. Mi x f o r 15-30 minutes o r u n t i l a
smooth non-grai ny di spersi on i s apparent. Add C and di sconti nue
heati ng. Continue vi gorous agi tati on t o produce a smooth product.
When the temperature f a l l s t o 40-45C add D. Continue mi xi ng
u n t i l the product temperature i s 30-35C. Cease agi tati on and f i l l
contai ners.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct F ormul ary: Formula-
t i o n PF-0224 suggested by B. F . Goodrich
Body Lotion
A :
B:
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Hostaceri n WO/P olyglyceryl-2 Sesqui i sostearate (and)
Beeswax (and) Mi neral O i l (and) Magnesium S tearate
(and) Aluminum S tearate
Bel s i l CM 1000/Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol
I sopropyl P al mi tate
Water
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments
W/O L oti on
Heat A and B t o 75-8OC. S t i r B i n t o A .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C 8 weeks.
8. 00%
10.00
10. 00
72.00
q. s .
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 813 AH
414 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lotion
(Formula 87-0805M)
Water Phase: % By Weiqht
P ropylene Gl ycol 2.50
Carbopol 934 (Goodrich) 0.25
Sodium Hydroxide (50% Aq.) 0.13
D. I. Water 89.47
O i l Phase:
A1 kamul s MM/M 2. 00
A1 kamul s GMS 1. 50
A1 kamul s SS 0.35
Dermalcare N I 1.50
S teari c Aci d TP 2.30
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q.S.
Bl endi na Procedure: Combine P ropylene Gl ycol and water and
heat t o 75-8OC. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t Carbopol
934 i nt o heated water system. Once Carbopol 934 i s compl etel y
di spersed, sl owl y bTend i n Sodium Hydroxide (50%) s ol uti on. I n
a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine O i l Phase i ngredi ents . Wi th
smooth agi tati on, heat O i l Phase t o 75-8OC (avoi d scorchi ng).
Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end mol ten O i l Phase
i nt o heated Water Phase. Mi x u n t i l compl etel y uni form. With
smooth agi tati on, sl owl y cool system t o 35-40C and add compati bl e
Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance Af ter 24 Hrs: Viscous, Opaque L oti on
% Non Vol ati l es :
Water Phase:
G1 yceri ne
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Versene 100 (Dow)
.~
D. I. Water
O i l Phase:
Alkamuls GMS
Alkamuls LVL
A1 kamul s MM/M
Cetyl Al cohol NF
S teari c Aci d TP
9-1 1
Hand & Body Lotion
(Formula 89-0903M)
% BY Weipht
0.50
1.20
0.10
83.20
2.50
2.00
5.00
2.50
3.00
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q.S.
Bl endi ng Procedure: Combine Water Phase i ngredi ents and heat
t o 75-8OC. In a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine O i l Phase
i ngredi ents and, wi th smooth agi tati on, heat t o 75-8OC (Avoi d
Scorchi ng). Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on sl owl y bl end heated
O i l Phase i nt o heated Water Phase. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form.
Wi th smooth agi tati on, cool t o 40C and bl end i n compati bl e
Fragrance, Oye(s), and P reservati ve.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance Af ter 25 Hrs: Opaque L oti on
% Non Vol ati l es : 16-18
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants Q S peci al ti es : Formulas
Lotions 415
Moisturizing Skin Lotion
O i l Phase:
Glucam P-20 3. 0s
B r i t o l 7 (Mi neral O i l ) 4.59
Pelan AC (Cetyl Acetate & Acetyl ated L anol i n Al cohol ) 2.09
Pelemol GMS (Gl yceryl Monostearate) 1 . og
Phoenate 200 DL (PEG-4 Di l aurate) 0. 59
Water Phase:
Pecogel H-12 (PVP/Polycarbamyl P ol ygl ycol E ster)
Phoenoxol T (Cetearyl Al cohol & Ceteareth 20)
DL Carboxypyrrol i done
Water
1o.og
2. 09
1 .og
76. Og
Procedure:
a t temperature wi th agi tati on and conti nue agi tati on whi l e
cool i ng. Perfume and s tabi l i z er s can be added when temper-
ature cool s t o 40C.
f or a thi cker formul ati on.
Heat o i l and water phases t o 8OC. Add o i l phase t o water phase
P art o f the mi neral o i l can be repl aced wi th petrol eum j e l l y
Emollient Skin Lotion
Dei oni zed Water
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Gl yceri n
Pelemol ICE ( I s ocetyl Behenate)
Pelemol IS5 ( I s os tearyl Behenate)
Pelemol BB (Behenyl Behenate)
Pelemol GTB (Gl yceryl Tri behenate)
Phoenoxol T (Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Ceteareth-20)
Cetearyl Al cohol
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)
Ethyl paraben (and) P ropylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (Phenonip)
76.00%
5.00
2. 50
10.00
2. 00
0. 25
0. 25
1.50
1. 50
1 . oo
P rocedure:
Heat phase A t o 70-75C. Heat phase t o 70-75C wi th adequate
agi tati on. Homogenize phase B i nt o phase 8. S wi tch t o propel l er
agi tati on and cool & t o 45C. Add phase C t o & wi th conti nued
propel l er agi tati on. When & reaches 35C, stop.
Formul a 14-63-D
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc, : Suggested F ormul ati ons
416 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Natural Collagen, Aloe and Lanolin Hand Lotion
A . Deionized Water
Tetrasodium EDTA
Carbopol 934, 2% Aq. s o l ' n (Carbomer 934)
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
T r i ethanolami ne-99%
P ropylene Gl ycol
Collagen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 55 (Hydrolyzed C ol l
B . Di i sopropyl Ad
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
Anhydrous Lano
Amerchol L-101
C . Al oe Vera Gel
%w/W
69.00
0. 05
7. 00
0.30
0. 15
2. 00
2. 50
agen) 1 . O O
pate 2. 00
4. 00
1 . oo
i n , USP (L anol i n) 5. 00
(Mi neral O i 1 (and) Lanol i n Al cohol ) 5. 00
1 . oo
Fragrance, c ol or 9, s .
P rocedure:
1 . Heat Phases A and B separatel y t o 75C.
2. Add A t o B a t 75C wi th adequate mi xi ng.
3. Mi x and cool t o 40C.
4 . Add Phase C . Mi x t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es:
i ngredi ents known--Lanolin, Hydrolyzed Collagen and Al oe. Pene-
tr ates qui ckl y i nt o the s ki n t o l eave a s of t, s i l ky af ter f eel .
Cost ef f ec ti ve, but wi th strong marketi ng appeal.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #SK-2020
I ncorporates three o f the most benef i ci a1 youth- gi vi ng
Lotions 417
O/W Broad-Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins
I ngredi ents :
A. P arsol MCX
P arsol 1789
P arsol 5000
Gl yceryl Monostearate
Cetyl Al cohol E xtra
Dermol 185
Antaron V-220 (Ganex V-220)
P r i s ori ne 3505
Butyl ated Hydroxytoluene
Edeta BD
Phenoni p
Amphisol A
8. Deionized Water
AMP 10% s ol ' n
C . Deionized Water
P ropylene G1 ycol
Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n
AMP 10% s ol ' n
0. Deionized Water
P arsol HS
AMP 10% sol ' n
E . Vi tami n E Acetate
F . Ropufa 25 N-6 O i l
G. P anthenol
H. Ponceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n
I . Perfume (P arfex 49915)
% by Weight
2. 00
1 . oo
0. 60
2. 00
2. 00
6. 00
2. 00
2. 00
0. 05
0. 10
0. 60
1. 50
10.00
3. 97
21 .31
5.00
10. 00
1. 02
20.00
0. 60
1 . 8 0
2. 00
2. 00
2. 00
0. 05
0. 40
Remarks:
a) Whi l e not a sunscreen, t h i s f ormul ati on scored an SPF 8 when
tes ted accordi ng t o the FDA/OTC method (range- fi ndi ng assay
on s i x subj ects. I R I Ref. 582627).
b) Dermatol ogi cal l y tes ted perfume f o r sunscreens.
P rocedure:
Heat par t A t o 85C whi l e s t i r r i ng. When homogeneous, add par t
B pre-heated t o 75C, whi l e mi xi ng. Add par t C pre-heated t o 75C,
whi l e mi xi ng. Then add par t D pre-heated t o 60C. Cool t o 40C,
add parts E , F, G, H, and I . Compensate f o r water l os s and
conti nue s t i r r i n g whi l e cool i ng t o ambient temperature.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct F ormul ary: F ormul ati on
PF-0312E suggested by Givaudan-Roure SA
418 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Hand and Body Lotion
I ngredi ents: 96w/w
1 . Di s t i 11 ed/Dei oni zed Water 80.30
2. Acri tamer 934 (Carbomer) 0.10
3 . Gl yceri ne 4.00
4. Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05
5. Methylparaben 0.20
6. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate) 3.20
7 . R i ta S teari c Aci d 3.00
8. Ri tachol (Mi neral O i l and L anol i n
Al cohol ) 3.00
9. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 1.40
10. Ri tachol 1000 (R. I . T. A. Blend) 0.60
11.Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend) 2.00
12. Ri ta IPP (I sopropyl P al mi tate) 0.50
13.P ropylparaben 0.10
14 . T ri ethanol ami ne @ 50% 1.20
15.Glydant 0.25
16.Fragrance 0.10
Compoundino P rocedure:
F uncti on
Vi s cos i ty
Humectant
S tabi 1 i t y
P reservati ve
Emul s i f i er
Emul s i f i er
Feel
E mul s i f i er
E mul s i f i er
Moi s turi z i ng
----
Emoll i ent
P reservat
PH
P reservat
Odor
To water s i f t i n i tem 2. Aai tate u n t i l uni form. Then we
ve
ve
gh i n
i tems 3-5 and begi n heati ng t o 70C. I n another vessel weigh
i tems 6-13 and heat t o 70C. To water bl end add i tem 14. Af ter
neutral i z ati on add o i l phase wi th conti nuous agi tati on. Cool
and add fragrance.
Ref. No. 119-96
Lanolin Hand and Body Lotion
Creamv texture. l anol i n based l o t i o n which absorbs qui ckl y
and does- not l eave a greasy resi dual f i l m .
1 . Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 72.37
2. Acri tamer 941 (Carbomer) 0. 05
3. P ropylene Gl ycol 5.00
4. Methylparaben 0.10
5. Tri ethanol ami ne @ 50% 1. 48
6. R i ta S teari c Aci d 2.60
7 . Mi neral O i l (70 vi s. - P enreco) 8. 00
8. Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend) 2.75
9. Lanol i n, Xtra Deo (R. I . T. A. Lano i n) 1. 00
1O.Propylparaben 0.05
11 . R i tachol (Mi neral O i 1 and Lanol i
A1 coho1 ) 4. 00
12. Ri ta GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate) 2. 00
13. Ri ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 0.30
14. Fragrance 0.10
15 I G1 ydant 0.20
Compounding Procedure:
I ngredi ents: %w/w Funct i on
Vi s cos i ty
Humectant
P reservat i ve
PH
E mul s i f i er
Emol l i ency
Moi sture
P rotecti on
P reservati ve
----
Feel
Emul s
Emuls
Odor
Prese
f i e r
f i e r
vat i ve
Weigh i tem 1 and s i f t i n i tem 2 u n t i l compl etel y di spersed.
Add i tems 3-4 and begi n heati ng t o 70C. I n another contai ner
weigh and add i ngredi ents 6-13 and heat t o 70C. Add o i l phase
t o water phase. Add i tem 5. Mi x f or 10-15 mi nutes. Begin cool i ng,
then add fragrance and preservati ve.
Ref. No. 119-98
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : S ki n Care Formulary
Lotions 419
Washing Lotion
Clear, 15.3% active ingredient
Reci De:
Genapol ZRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Hostapon KCG
Sodi um Cocoyl G1 utamate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I Add one af ter another the components of B t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C.
Formula A II/4010
Washing-Lotion
Clear, 10.5% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
B Hostapon KCG
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Glucamate DOE 120
PEG-1 20 Methyl G1 ucose D i o l eate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Procedure:
I Add one af ter another the components of B t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
Formula A II/4019
35.00%
8.00%
5.00%
0.50%
39.50%
q. s .
q . s .
8.00%
2.00%
2.00%
20.00%
6.00%
1 .OO%
0.30%
62,70%
q. s.
9 , s .
10.00%
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
420 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Washing-Lotion
With bacteriostatic effect, clear, 10.5% active ingredient
Reci De:
A Octopi rox
B Genapol AMG
C Hostapon KCG
P i roctone 01 ami ne
Magnesi um-PEG-3 Cocami de S ul f ate
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
20
G1 ucose D i o l eate
G1 ucamate DOE
PEG-1 20 Methyl
Perfume
Dyestuff s ol ut
P reservati ve
D Al l antoi n
E Water
F Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n
on
Betai ne
0 .
I1 One af t er another the components o f C are added t o I.
I 1 1 Di ssol ve D i n warmed E .
IV S t i r 1 1 1 i nt o 1 1 .
V I f necessary adj ust the pH.
V I F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th F .
Formula A II/4020
0.20%
20. DO%
6.00%
1.00%
0.30%
q. s .
q . s .
0.20%
62.30%
10.00%
Handwashing-Paste
Clear, gel type, with solvent, 21.2% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genaool UD-030
Undeceth-3
Ol ei c aci d
Tri ethanol ami ne
P reservati ve
B Genapol ZRO l i qui d
Sodi urn Laureth S ul f ate
Hostapur SAS 60
Sodium C14-17 Sec. Al kyl Sul fonate
Water
C S hel l s ol D 70
P etroleum Di s t i l l at es
Procedure:
I Mi x the components of A.
I 1 One af t er another, the components o f B are
111 Heat I 1 t o 70C, then add C.
I V F i nal 1 y homogeni ze i f necessary.
Formula A II/1029
5.00%
4.00%
2.00%
q . s .
15.00%
20.00%
29.00%
25.0D%
added t o I .
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Section IX
Shampoos
421
422 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Amino Moisture Balance Shampoo
Dei oni zed Water
Sodium C14-Cl6 Ol ef i n S ul fonate
May-Tein CT (TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxy E thyl
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Aci ds (and) Acetamide
Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate
Monamid CMA (Cocamide MEA)
Methylparaben
Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15)
Ammon i um Chl or i de
Dei oni zed Water
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, col or
Hydro1 yzed C ol l agen)
MEA (and) P ropylene Gl ycol )
35.10
35.10
10.00
1 . 50
3. 00
5. 00
3.00
0 . 2 0
0. 20
2. 00
5 . 0 0
q. s
q . s
P rocedure:
pH whi l e warm t o pH=6.5. P re- di ssol ve Ammonium Chl ori de i n water.
Add c ar ef ul l y t o avoi d a i r entrapment. Cool t o 50C. Add fragrance
P roperti es :
generati ng properti es . Quat-Pro S and Aqua-Tein C provi de the
condi ti oni ng requi red f or good manageabi l i ty and an optimum
moi sture balance throughout the hai r . May-Tein CT provi des
anti - i r r i tanc y and mi l dness. Quat-Pro S , a quaterni zed, hi gh
mol ecul ar weight pr otei n coats, seal s and protects the ha i r .
The hai r i s l e f t f eel i ng s of t and bodi ed.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Formula #HS-115
Warm phase A t o 65C. Mix unt i l mel ted and homogeneous. Adj ust
Thi s shampoo i s an ef f ec ti ve cl eanser w i t h excel l ent foam
Shampoo
Clear, low viscosity
Materi a1 s/CTFA-Index:
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate 22. 50%
Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne 22. 50
Water 48.00
Bel s i l AOM 6041 E/Amodimethicone (and) E mul s i f i er 1 . oo
Bel s i 1 DMC 6031 /Di methi cone Copol yo1
Ammonium Chl ori de
P reservati ves, fragrances
1 . o o
5. 00
q. s .
Di ssol ve Hoe S 3267 i n water, add the remai ni ng components
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
and adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th the ammonium chl ori de.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 150 AH
Shampoos 423
Amino-Soy Revital Shampoo
%w/w
A. Dei oni zed Water 46.70
Monamate OPA-30 (Di sodi um 01 eami do PEG-2
S ul fosucci nate) 8.00
Monateri c ISA-35 (Sodium I s os t ear amphopr opi onat e) 8.00
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate 25.00
Soy-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n) 2.00
May-Tein SY (TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n) 10.00
8. Gl ydant
Fragrance
C i t r i c Acid, 50% S ol uti on
0.30
q . s .
9 , s . t o pH 6. 5
Procedure:
cool t o 40C. Add fragrance & preservati ve. Add c i t r i c aci d t o
thi cken.
P roperti es:
A foaming vegetabl e shampoo wi th excel l ent foam generati on.
Mi l d, yet thorough cl eansi ng. May-Tein SY i s a mi l d, foaming
L i po- protei n which i s bi odegradabl e. Soy-Tein NL adds cond-
i ti oni ng and post-shampoo benef i ts . These substanti ve protei ns
equi l i br ate the moi sture content o f the hai r so it actual l y
improves wi th ti me. Moi st hai r i s l es s raspy, f eel s better and
i s l es s prone t o breakage. An excel l ent shampoo f o r permed or
treated hai r.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : F ormul ati on #HS-202
Mix and heat phase A t o 50C. Mix u n t i l homogeneous. Mix and
Shampoo for Permed Hair
Mackanate OP
Mackanate CP
Mackol 70NS
Mackami ne WGO
Mackalene 716
Paragon P reservati ve
C i t r i c aci d t o pH 6. 0
Sodium Chl ori de q s t o 2000 cps
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Weight,%
20. 0
12. 0
10. 0
4.0
1 . o
q . s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add s urf actants t o water and heat t o 40C.
2. Blend u n t i l cl ear and adj ust pH wi th c i t r i c aci d.
3. Add remai ni ng components and adj us t vi s cos i ty w i t h sodium
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
chl ori de.
424 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
Therapeuti c shampoo contai ni ng 2% zi nc pyri thi one i n a thi ck,
r i c h foaming condi ti oni ng shampoo.
I naredi ents: Weiaht% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 31 - 1 Di l uent
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate (28%) (1) 34.3 S urfactant
Lauramidopropyl Betai ne (32%) (2) 7. 5 S urfactant
P art 8 :
Carbopol 1382 (3)
Cocamide DEA (4)
0. 5 Suspension
3. 5 Foam S tabi l i z er
Stabi 1 i zer
P art C:
Dei oni zed Water 16.0 Di l uent
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 1 Chelant
DMDM Hydantoin (5) 0. 4 P reservati ve
Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl ori de (6) 0. 5 Condi ti oner
Sodium Hydroxide (10%) 2.0 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P art D:
Zi nc P yri thi one (48%) ( 7) 4. 1 Acti ve
(1) Standapol A (Henkel)
(2) Mackam LMB-LS (McI ntyre Group)
(3) Carbomer (BFGOodrich)
( 4) Standamid KD (Henkel)
(5) Glydant (Lonza)
(6) N-Hance (Aqualon)
(7) Zi nc Omadine ( Ol i n Chemical)
P reparati on Procedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents, sl owl y mix, heat t o 40-50C.
2. Separatel y heat cocamide DEA t o 50C, sl owl y mix i n Carbopol
3. Combine P art C i ngredi ents, car ef ul l y di sperse guar before
4. Wi th slow mi xi ng add zi nc pyri thi one t o shampoo base; mix
SOURCE: 0F Goodrich Co , : Formula C-0038
formi ng a paste, add t o P art A.
adding NaOH, add t o P art ABB.
20-30 mi nutes,
Shampoos 425
Antidandruff-Shampoo
Clear, 15.1% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Octopi rox
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
P i roctone Olami ne
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol SBE
D i sodi um Laureth Sul fosucci nate
Perfume
D Al l antoi n
E Water
F Dyestuff s ol uti on
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
G Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I Mix A and B. I 1 C i s added by conti nui ng s
the s ol uti on i s c l ear . I 11 Di ssol ve D i n warmed
111 i nt o 11. V One af ter another the components
t o I V . V I I f necessary adj ust the pH. V I 1 F i na
vi s cos i ty wi th G.
Formula B I /6134
Antidandruff-Shampoo
Recipe:
A Octooi rox
P yroctone Olami ne
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol SEE
D i sodi urn Laureth S ul fosucci nate
D Perfume
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
E Sodium chl ori de
0.50%
10.00%
35.00%
5.00%
0.30%
0.20%
40.30%
q. s .
6.00%
1.50%
1.20%
i r r i n g u n t i l
E . I V S t i r
o f F are added
l y adj us t the
0. 75%
10.00%
35.00%
10.00%
0.30%
34.25%
6.00%
q. s .
1.70%
Procedure:
I Mix A and B. I 1 C i s added by conti nui ng s t i r r i n g u n t i l the
s ol uti on i s cl ear. I11 One af ter another the components o f
D are added t o 11. I V I f necessary adj us t the pH. V F i nal l y
adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th E .
Formula B I /6136
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics 8, T oi l etr i es
426 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
Texapon IES
Dehyton AB 30
Bacter i c i de
lI 2-propy1 ene gl ycol
Water
Note: WAS 28%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-16
Shampoo for Greasy Hair
Texapon MG
Comperlan F
P aravi tal 9B
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15.5%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-18
Sulfur Shampoo
Texapon IES
Bi oschwefel - F l ui d
Water
Note: WAS 20%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-19
Shampoo, with Azulene, Clear
Texapon ASV
Texapon SBN
Azu 1 ene
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 19%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-20
Herbal Shampoo, Clear
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KD
Extrapon 5 spec.
Extrapon bi rch spec.
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-21
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
50.0
10.0
0. 5
5. 0
34.5
%w/w
40. 0
1 . o
5. 0
2.0
52. 0
%w/w
40. 0
3. 0
57. 0
%w/w
30.0
30.0
0.1
4 . 0
35. 9
%w/w
50. 0
2.0
2.0
1 . o
2. 0
43.0
Shampoos 427
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5
I nqredi ents: s6w/w
P art A:
1. Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate 51.70
2. Di s t i l l e d Water 8.80
3. P ati oni c I SL/85 3. 00
4. R i ta EGDS 3.00
5. Ri tami d C 4.50
6. P ropylene Gl ycol 2.00
P art 8:
7 . NaCl (25% S ol uti on) t-1.00
8. P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on) QS
P art C:
9. Flowers o f S ul f ur 2.00
P art 0:
10. Ri tavena 5 4.00
11 . Di s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 20.00
Compounding Procedure:
When a t temperature s t i r P art A u n t i l homogeneous. Swi tch t o
hi gh shear mi xi ng (do not aerate). Add P art C i nt o P art A and
sheer f o r 10-12 mi nutes ( unt i l thoroughl y di spersed). Whi l e
s t i l l warm, swi tch agai n t o regul ar i mpel l er mi xer and add P art
D. Mi x wel l whi l e cool i ng i n water bath. Adj ust pH t o 7 . 5 wi th
P atl ac LA i f needed. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th NaCl s ol uti on.
Formula 11 3-1 20A
Premix P art D i n bl ender f o r 2 mi nutes. Heat par t A t o 165F.
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5
I naredi ents:
P art A:
1. Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate
2. Di s t i l l e d Water
3. P ati oni c I S L / 85
4. R i ta EGDS
5. Ri tami d C
6. P ropylene Gl ycol
P art E:
7 . NaCl (25% S ol uti on)
8 . P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on)
P art C:
9. Flowers of S ul f ur
P art D:
10.Ritavena 5
11. Di s ti l l ed Water (1OOC)
Compounding P rocedure:
Heat P art A t o 165F. When a t temperature, s t i r unti
eous, then swi tch t o hi gh shear mi xi ng (do not aerate)
P art C i nt o P art A and shear f o r 10-12 minutes ( unt i l
di spersed). Premix P art D i n bl ender f o r 1 minute. Whi
%w/w
51 -70
8.80
3.00
3.00
4.50
2.00
+-I -00
QS
2.00
4.50
19.50
homogen -
S pri nkl e
horouqhl y
e s t i l l
warm, swi tch A 8 C t o regul ar i mpel l er mi xer and add P art D. Mix
wel l whi l e cool i ng i n water bath. Adj ust pH t o 7. 5 wi th P atl ac LA
i f needed. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi t h NaCl s ol uti on.
Formula 113-1208
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Ri tavena 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
428 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5
I naredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Sodium Lauryl Ether S ul f ate 57.69
2. P ati oni c I SL/85 3.00
3. R i ta EGDS 3.00
4. P ropylene Gl ycol 2.00
P art B:
5. Zi nc Omadine 2.00
P art C:
6. Ritavena 5 4.50
7. Di s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 26.41
P art D:
8. P atl ac LA (44% S ol uti on) t-0.40
P art E :
Compounding P rocedure:
P art C i n bl ender f o r 2 minutes. P lace P art A under hi gh shear
mixer (do not aerate). Add P art B and shear f o r approxi matel y
12-15 minutes ( unt i l thoroughl y di spersed). Whi l e s t i l l warm,
remove from hi gh shear mi xer, pl ace under regul ar i mpel l er
mi xer and add P art C. Water bath cool t o 120F. Add P art D t o
pH=5.5. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th P art E i f necessary.
Note: 2% Zi nc Omadine i s not necessary as f uncti onal i ty
9. NaCl (25% S ol uti on) t- 1 .oo
Heat P art A i n water bath t o 165F, s t i r u n t i l uni form. Premix
remains w i t h 1% Zi nc Omadine. Aci d pH i s necessary
f o r proper s t a b i l i t y o f Omadine.
Formula 113-141C
Silicone Shampoo with Ritavena 5
I nciredi ents : %w/w
P art A:
1. P ati oni c 138C 8-00
2. Masi l SF 60,000 1 .oo
3. Ri tapeg 150 DS 2.00
4. R i ta EGDS 3.00
5. Witconate SXS 2.00
6. P ropylparaben 0.05
P art B:
7. Di s t i l l e d Water 34.25
8. Bio-Terge AS-40 37.50
9. Methylparaben 0.15
P art C :
10. Di s ti l l ed Water (1OOC) 10.00
11. R i tavena 5 2.00
P art D:
12.Kathon CG 0.05
Compounding P rocedure:
P art C i n bl ender f o r 2 minutes. Add P art C t o mi xture. Cool t o
120F. Add P art D.
Formula 114-7
SOURCE: R.I .T.A. Corp.: RITAVENA 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
Heat P arts A and B t o 165F. Combine. Mix u n t i l uni form. Premix
Shampoos 429
Balance Shampoo
Component:
P1 antaren 2000
Texapon ALS
Anti 1 1415
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
WAS: 12
o/,
20. 0
6. 5
3. 0
a . s
up t o 100
pH-value: 5, 5
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 4220
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount of perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 93/178/9
the product.
Shampoo with Care Additive
Component:
P l antaren PS 10 16. 0
Lamequat L 2. 0
Perfume o i l q. s .
NaCl 2 . 0
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 5, 5
WAS: 10
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 14600
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 92/184/26
the product.
Shampoo with Plantaren PS 10
Component: o/,
Dehyton K
10. 0
C eti ol HE
2. 0
NaCl
0. 5
Perfume o i l
q . s .
Water, pres ervati ve
up t o 100
P l antaren PS 10 15. 0
pH-value: 5, 5
WAS: 12
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 3700
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
F ormul ati on No.: 92/184/28
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
the product.
430 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Shampoo
Texapon K 14 S 70 spezi al
Dehyton K
P1 antaren 1200
Arl ypon F
NaCl
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
YO
11 . E
7. 0
4. 0
0. 9
3. 0
q . s .
up t o 100
pH-Val ue : 5, 5
WAS: 12
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 8000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/39
the product.
Mild, Clear Care Shampoo
Texapon N70
P1 antaren 1200
Lamequat L
NaCl
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
%
8. 0
4. 0
3. 0
1. 3
9.5..
up t o 100
pH-Val ue : 5, 5
WAS: 10
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 3200
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/41
the product.
Clear Shampoo with Panthenol
P1 antaren 1200
Texapon ALS
D-Panthenol USP (50%)
NaCl
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
%
10. 0
17. 0
1 . o
2. 3
q. s .
up t o 100
pH-value: 5, 5
WAS: 10
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 5000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/50
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
the product.
Shampoos 431
Clear Shampoo with Protein
Component: !&
Texapon N70 11 . o
Dehyton K 7. 0
P1 antaren 1200 4. 0
Nutri l an 1-50 2. 0
NaCl 1. 6
Perfume q.s.
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 5,5
WAS: 12
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 4300
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/38
the product.
Clear Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Keratin
Component: %
P1 antaren 1200 13. 0
Texapon ALS 11. 0
Nutri l an Kerati n W 3. 0
NaCl 0. 4
Perfume q . s .
Water, preservati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 5,5
WAS: 10
V i scosi t y mPas: 11 700
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
F ormul ati on No.: 90/139/47
the product.
Mild, Clear Shampoo with Keratin
Component:
Texapon K 14 S spez.
P1 antaren 2000
Nutri l an K erati n W
Arl ypon F
NaCl
Perfume
Water, preservati ve
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 5220
WAS: 10
pH-val ue : 6,5
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume
F ormul ati on No.: 92/087/43
the product.
!&
29.0
4.0
1 . o
3. 0
1 . o
q . s .
UP t o 100
may i nf l uence the vi s cos i ty o f
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
432 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear & Bright Shampoo Plus Conditioner
(Formula 90-1109)
Thi s r i c h l ather i ng shampoo condi ti ons the hai r whi l e i t cl eans
and l eaves the hai r s o f t and manageable. Unl i ke many condi ti oni ng
shampoos, which l eave the hai r f eel i ng heavy or o i l y, t h i s
formul a condi ti ons the hai r wi thout heavy bui l dup.
Step A: % By Weiaht
Water 22.20
J aguar C-162 0.30
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th r api d but smooth agi tati on,
s l owl y di sperse J aguar C-162 i n water. Wi th smooth agi tati on,
warm system t o 40-45C.
Step B-:
Rhodapon L-22HNC
Ammonium Xylene S ul fonate (40%)
65.00
5.00
C i t r i c Aci d (25% Aqueous) Q.S. t o pH 5.5-6.0
Wi th smooth agi tati on s l owl y bl end Rhodapon L-22HNC and AXS-40
i nt o heated water system. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form (heat
may be needed). Adj ust pH system t o 5.5-6.0 wi th C i t r i c Aci d
(25% Aq.) as needed.
SteD c:
Alkamide LE 1.50
Mi rapol 550 0.50
M i r atai ne BET-0-30 5.00
C i t r i c Aci d (25% Aqueous) Q . S . t o pH 5. 5- 6. 0
Combine A1 kami de LE, Mi rapol 550, and Mi r atai ne BET-0-30.
Mix unt i l uni form. Thi s should produce a pourabl e s l ur r y.
Sl owl y bl end the s l ur r y i nt o the main system and mix unt i l
uni form. Adj ust pH o f system t o 5.5-6.0 wi th C i t r i c Aci d as
needed.
SteD D:
Fragrance Q . S .
Dye(s) Q.S.
P reservati ve Q.S.
Sl owl y bl end compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve
i nt o system. Mix u n t i l uni form.
Step E :
Ammonium Chl ori de Q . S .
or
Ammonium Xylene S ul fonate (40%) Q.S.
I f desi red, tr ace concentrati ons (0.05% increments) o f Ammonium
Chl ori de may be added t o i ncrease the f ormul ati on vi s cos i ty.
Addi ti ons o f AXS-40 (0.5% increments) may be used t o lower the
f ormul ati on vi s cos i ty.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance 13 25C: Cl ear L i qui d
Vi s cos i ty 8 25C (No. 4 S pi ndl e @ 20RPM) 4,000-6,000 cps
CTFA Desi anati on: Water, Ammonium Lauryl S ul fate, Ammonium
Xylene Sul fonate, Lauramide DEA, Oleamidopropyl Betai ne, P ol y-
quaternium 7, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium
Chl ori de, C i t r i c Acid, P reservati ve, Dye, Ammonium Chl ori de.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants 8 S peci al ti es : Formula 90-1109
pH (as i s ) : 5.5-6.0
Shampoos 433
Step A:
Step 8 :
Step C:
Step D:
Step E:
SteD F:
Step G:
Step H:
Step I:
Conditioning, Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
(Formula 91-1105)
% Bv Weiaht
J aguar C-17 0.50
Water 35.00
Rhodigel EZ 0.05
C i t r i c Aci d Q.S. t o pH 5-7
Rhodapon SB 82085 45- 00
A1 kami de C-212 1.80
A1 kamul s EGMS 0. 90
Zi nc Omadine 48% Acti ve Di spersi on ( Ol i n) 2.00
Water
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservat
Mi r atai ne CBC
81 ending P rocedure:
Wi th rapi d but smooth aai tat Step A:
Step B:
Step C:
Step D:
Step E:
Step F:
Step G:
Step H:
Step I:
45.00
ve Q.S.
Q.S. t o pH 5.5-6.5
6-1 4
on. di sperse J aauar C-17
i n water. Heat system t o 40- 5C- wi th' smooth agi tati on.
Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, di sperse Rhodigel EZ i nt o
heated water base. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, conti nue
t o heat system t o 60C.
Adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5-7 wi th C i t r i c Aci d as needed.
Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Rhodapon
SB 82088. With smooth agi tati on heat system t o 70-75C.
Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end Alkamide C-212 and
Alkamuls EGMS i nt o heated system. Mix u n t i l uni form.
Combine water and Zi nc Omadine di spersi on and mix u n t i l
uni form. Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end
i nt o heated shampoo base. Mi x u n t i l uni form and then
cool system t o 40-45C wi th smooth agi tati on.
Adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5. 5- 6. 5 wi th C i t r i c Aci d as
needed.
Add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve.
Adj ust formul ati on vi s cos i ty t o 7,000-11,000 cps
(No. 4 Spi ndl e @ 10 RPM-25C) wi th the i ncremental addi -
t i o n of Mi ratai ne CBC as needed.
Typical Formulation Properties
Appearance @ 25C: Viscous, Opaque L i qui d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 7,000-11,000 cps (No. 4 s pi ndl e @ 10 RPM)
% Non Vol ati l es : 20-23
Acti ve I ngredi ent: Zi nc P yri thi one
Other I naredi ents (CTFA I ndenti f i cati on) : Water, Sodium Lauryl
S ul fate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Gl ycol Stearate,
Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl ori de, Fragrance, P reservati ve,
C i t r i c Aci d, Xanthan Gum, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula 91-1105
pH : 5.5-6.5
434 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
Thi ck, s tabl e shampoo havi ng good cl eani ng and condi ti oni ng
properti es o f the hai r .
I naredi ent: Weight% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 21 . 55 Di 1 uent
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate (28%) ( 1) 43.00 S urfactant
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (27%) (2) 11.00 Surfactant
P art 6:
Carbopol 1382 (3)
Cocamide DEA (4)
P art C:
Dimethicone (100,000 cs ) (5)
Olealkonium Chl ori de ( 6 )
0. 75 Suspension
3. 50 Foam
Stabi 1 i zer
Stabi 1 i zer
1.00 Lubri cant
0.50 Condi ti oner
P art D:
Deionized Water 18.00 Di l uent
Di sodi um EDTA 0.10 Chelant
DMDM Hydantoi n (7) 0.40 P reservati ve
Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl ori de (8) 0.20 Condi ti oner
NaOH (10%) 2 .OO Neutral i zi ng
(1) Standapol A (Henkel)
( 2) Standapol EA-3 (Henkel)
(3) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(4) Standamid KD (Henkel)
(5) 200 F l ui d (Dow Corning)
(6) M-Quat JO 50 (PPG-Mazer)
( 7 ) Glydant (Lonza)
( 8) N-Hance (Aqualon)
P reparati on Procedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents, sl owl y mix, heat t o 50C.
2. Separatel y heat cocamide DEA t o 50C, sl owl y mix i n Carbopol
formi ng a paste, add t o P art A wi th moderate speed, mi xi ng
30 mi nutes.
3. Separatel y combine P art C i ngredi ents, heat t o 50C, sl owl y
mix t o combine wi th P arts A and B wi th moderate speed
mi xi ng.
4. Separatel y add guar i n t o f i r s t three i ngredi ents of P art D,
when di spersed add NaOH, combine wi th P arts A, 6, and C,
wi th slow agi tati on f or 20 minutes.
Agent
SOURCE: BF Goodrlch Co,: Formula C-0038
Shampoos 435
Conditioning Shampoo
High-viscosity product with a silky shine. Very mild.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Water
Texapon ASV/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Magnesium
Laureth S ul f ate (and) Sodium Laureth 8- S ul f ate
(and) Sodium Ol eth S ul f ate (and) Magnesium Ol eth
S ul f ate
Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Comperl an KD/Cocami de DEA
Sodium Chl ori de
Texapon SG/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Cocamide MEA
(and) Gl ycol Di s tearate
B el s i l DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol
P reservati ves, fragrances
Mi x a1 1 components i n the gi ven order.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 201 AH
Shampoo
Clear, thin gel.
-___ Materi a1 s/CTFA-I ndex :
Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Wasser, dest . /Water
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate
B el s i l DMC 6033/Dimethicone Copolyol Acetate
B el s i l ADM 6041 E/Amodimethicone (and) E mul s i f i er
Ammoni um Chl o r i de
P reservati ves, fragrances
53. 50%
2 0 . 0 0
11 - 00
4.00
1 .OD
10. 00
0. 50
a . s
Di ssol ve Hoe S 3267 i n water, add Texapon NA, B e l s i l
DMC 6033 and B el s i l ADM 6041 E , homogenise the mi xture and
adj us t the des i red vi s cos i ty wi th the ammonium chl ori de.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 151 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
22. 50%
5 2 . 0 0
2 2 . 5 0
1 . oo
1 . oo
1 . oo
4 , s .
436 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
I ngredi ents:
Phase A:
H20, Dei oni zed
Celquat H-100
Standapol ES-2
Hetai ne CLA (Canol ami dopropyl Betai ne)
Hetamide RC (Cocamide DEA)
Hest E . G. D. S . (E.G.D.S)
Merquat 280
Phase B:
Kathon CG
Phase C :
C i t r i c Aci d
FD&C Bl ue #1
Speci f i cat i ons :
Procedure:
1) I n a s tai nl es s s teel ke t t l e add H20. Whi l e mi xi ng s pri nkl e
2 ) Add remainder o f Phase A and heat t o 75C whi l e mi xi ng
3) Cool t o 40C and add Phase B.
4 ) Adj ust pH wi th c i t r i c aci d.
5) Col or as desi red.
Formula HS 93-85
SF 96-350
pH: 5. 5- 6. 0
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 5000 cps
Celquat H-100 i nt o vortex.
u n t i l homogeneous.
%
-
54.995
0.10
25.00
5.00
1.50
0.80
0.75
0.75
0.07
0.035
Q.S.
Clear Shampoo
I nqredi ents:
H20, Dei oni zed
Sod; um Laureth-2 S ul f ate
Hetai ne CLA
Decyl P olyglucose
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Kathon CG
Speci f i cat i ons :
pH: 6.50
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 5500 cps
Procedure:
I n a s tai nl es s s teel tank equipped wi th a L i ghtni n' type mi xer,
combine a l l i ngredi ents. Mix u n t i l uni form.
Comments:
tai ni ng vi s cos i ty.
Formula HS 93-90
Thi s mi l d shampoo i s alkanolamide and s a l t f ree, whi l e main-
I t i s al s o a col d process formul a.
%
56.93
25.0
9.5
7.5
1 . o
0. 07
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc . : Suggested Formulas
Shampoos 437
Conditioning Shampoo
(Formula 92-1202)
A.
B.
Deionized water
J aguar C-17
C i t r i c Aci d
Rhodacal A-246L
M i ratai ne BET C-30
A1 kami de DC-212/S
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
Sodium Chl ori de
P reservati ve
Fragrance and dye(s)
% bv Weiaht
61.20
0.30
Q . S . t o pH 4.0-5.0
20.0
15.0
2.0
1 . o
0.5
Q.S.
Q.S.
Bl endi nn P rocedure:
Di ssol ve J aguar C-17 thoroughl y i n water. Adj ust pH t o 4-5
wi th c i t r i c aci d wi th agi tati on. Heat t o 65C, then add " B"
(except Alkamuls EGMS/C and sodium chl or i de) . Adj ust pH o f
f ormul ati on t o 5-6 wi th c i t r i c aci d, then add Alkamuls EGMS/C
and sodium chl ori de. Continue agi tati on u n t i l uni form and cool
t o room temperature.
Note: Sodium chl ori de may be added i n trace concentrati ons
Tentati ve S peci f i cati ons :
(0.05-0.1%) t o i ncrease vi s cos i ty and t o provi de a very
good pearl .
S ol i ds: 16.2%
Vi s cos i ty: 4,500-5,000 cps
pH: 5. 0- 6. 0
After-Perm Conditioning Shampoo
(Formula 92-1211)
A.
B.
Deionized water
J aguar HP 8
C i t r i c Aci d
Rhodopon ESY
Mi ratai ne BET C 30
A1 kami de DC-212/S
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
Ammoni um Xylene Sul fonate
Fragrance, preservati ve, dye
% bv Weiqht
60.7
0. 3
9. s . t o pH 4-5
22.0
12.0
2. 0
1 . o
2.0
q. s.
Procedure:
Disperse J aguar HP 8 thoroughl y i n water. Adj ust pH w i t h
c i t r i c aci d t o 4-5. Heat/mix t o 75C and add "B" i n order gi ven.
Continue agi tati on u n t i l uni form. A t 45C, adj us t pH t o 5-6
wi th c i t r i c aci d, i f necessary.
Appearance @ 25C: Viscous, opaque l i qui d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 3500 cps
pH :
5-6
% Non- Vol ati l es: 15
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Typical Formulation Properties:
438 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
(Creme of Nature Type)
Formula 92-1212
Step A:
Dei oni zed water
J aguar C-13s
C i t r i c Aci d
Step B:
Rhodapon L22HNC
Mi ratai ne BET C-30
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
Hydrolyzed Col l agen
A1 kami de DC-212/5
Sodium Chl ori de
Fragrance, dyes, preservati ve
% bv Weiaht
52.2
0. 3
q . ~. t o pH 4-5
30.0
12.0
2.0
1 . o
0.5
Q . S .
2 . a
Bl endi nq Procedure:
4-5 wi th c i t r i c aci d. Continue agi tati on and heat t o 75C, then
add "B" i n order l i s t ed. Continue agi tati on t o cool t o 45C.
Adj ust pH t o 5-6 wi th c i t r i c aci d, i f necessary.
Typical Formulation Properties:
Di sperse J aguar C-13s thoroughl y i n water and adj ust pH t o
Appearance: V i scous, opaque 1 i qui d
% Nonvol ati l e: 16.5
Vi s cos i ty: 3,800 cps
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Ammonium Lauryl S ul fate, Coca-
midopropyl Betai ne, Gl ycol Stearate, Hydrolyzed Col lagen,
Cocamide DEA, Sodium Chl ori de.
pH : 5.0-6.0
Neutralizing Shampoo
(Formula 93-0501)
Component:
A. Rhodapex ES
Mi r atai ne COB
Alkamide DC-212/S
B. Dei oni zed Water
Sodi um Borate
Aceti c Aci d
Sorbi c Aci d
C . P henol phthal ei n
FD&C Y el l ow #6
Methyl Paraben
Fragrance
% bv Weiqht
18.0
10.0
2. 0
69.1
0.5
0.2
0.2
Q . S .
Q . S .
Q . S .
P . S .
Procedure:
t o "A" u n t i l uni form and cool t o 45C. Adj ust pH t o 4.0-5.5 wi th
Heat "A" and "B" separatel y t o 75C. Wi th agi tati on, add "8"
aceti c aci d, i f necessary. Add "C", then-package.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Shampoos 439
Conditioning-Shampoo
Clear, 17.0% active ingredient
GenaDol LRO 1 i aui d 35.00%
Recipe:
Sodi bm Laureth ' S ul fate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide
Bel s i l DMC 6032
Oimethicone Copolyol
Merquat 550
P ol yquaterni urn-7
Perfume
Water
G1 yceri ne
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Sodium chl ori de
S ul f ate
8.00%
0.50%
5.00%
0.30%
33.90%
5.00%
10.00%
1 . EO%
9 . s .
q. s .
0.50%
Procedure:
I Mix the components o f A.
I1 Add the components o f B t o I, and s t i r u n t i l a cl ear s ol uti on
I 1 1 One af ter another the components o f C are added t o 11.
I V I f necessary adj ust the pH.
V F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th 0.
Formula B I/6139
has been obtai ned.
Conditioning-Shampoo
Clear, 11.5% active ingredient
-
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi urn Laureth S ul f ate
B Genamin KSL
PEG-5 S tearyl Ammoni um Lactate
C Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Perfume
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservat i ve
0 Sodium chl ori de
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve B i n A.
I1 One af t er another the components o f C are added
I 1 1 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
IV F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th 0.
Formula B I/6118
25.00%
2.00%
8.00%
0.30%
57 I 20%
6.00%
q. s.
4.S.
1.50%
t o I.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
440 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning-Shampoo
With pearl lustre effect, 18.0% active ingredient
Reci pe :
A Coconut f a t t y aci d di ethanolami de 2.20%
B Water 10.00%
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Hostapon KCG
Sodi um Cocoyl Glutamate
Genamin KSL
PEG-5 S tearyl Ammonium Lactate
S ofti gen 767
PEG-6 Capryl i c/ Capri c Gl yceri des
Perfume
Bel s i l DMC 6032
Dimethicone Copolyol
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 D i stearate (and) Sodi um Laureth
D Polymer J R 400
Polyquaternium-10
40.00%
5.00%
2.00%
0.40%
0.30%
1 .OO%
2.00%
S ul f ate
0.60%
E Water 27.50%
F Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
7.00%
q. s.
q. s .
G Sodium chl ori de 2.00%
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n warmed B.
I 1 One af ter another the components o f C are added t o I .
I 1 1 Di ssol ve D i n warmed E, then s t i r i nt o 11.
I V One af ter another the components o f F are added t o 1 1 1 .
V I f necessary adj us t the pH.
V I F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th G.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es :
Formula B I/6140
Shampoos 441
Conditioning Shampoo
Creamy, white with a silky shine.
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A: Texapon A/Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate
B: Genapol PMS/Glycol Di stearate
Comperl an 100/Cocami de MEA
Lanette O/Cetearyl Al cohol
C: Water
Carbopol 934/Carbomer 934
Tri ethanol ami ne
D: Wacker-Belsil ADM 6057 E/Amodimethicone(a.)
T r i deceth-1 O(a. ) C etri moni um Chl ori de
P reservati ve, fragrances, pigments
Mi x A and heat t o 70C, mel t B and then s t i r i nt o A .
Mix C s t i r AB i nt o C a t approx. 35C and then add D.
F ormul ati on 985 AH
Conditioning Shampoo
High-viscosity product with a silky shine.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index :
Water
Texapon ASV/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Magnesium
Laureth S ul f ate (and) Sodium Laureth 8- S ul fate (and)
Sodium Ol eth S ul f ate (and) Magnesium Ol eth S ul f ate
Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Comper 1 an KD/Cocami de DEA
Texapon SG/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Cocamide MEA
(and) Gl ycol Di s tearate
Wacker-Belsil DM 6600 /Dimethicone (and) Trideceth-10
P reservati ve, fragrances, pigments
Mi x a l l the i ngredi ents i n t h i s order
F ormul ati on 661 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested Formu
20 . 00%
20. 00
3. 00
3. 00
1 . oo
50. 00
1 .5D
2. 00
3. 00
9.5.
48.00%
25.00
11 . oo
4.00
6. 00
5. 00
a . s .
ati ons
442 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning-Shampoo
Clear, 19.0% active ingredient
Recipe:
Genapol LRO 1 i qui d 35. 00%
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Hostapon SCHC
Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hostapon KCG
Sodi um Cocoyl G1 utamate
Bel s i l DMC 6032
Dimethi cone Copolyol
D-Panthenol
Perfume
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Sodium chl ori de
5.00%
5.00%
5.00%
2.00%
1 . OO%
0. 30%
34.20%
8.00%
2.50%
q. s.
q. s .
2.00%
P rocedure:
I Mix the components o f A.
I 1 Add the components of B t o I, and s t i r u n t i l a cl ear gel
I11 One af ter another the components o f C are added t o 11.
I V I f necessary adj us t the pH.
V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
Formula B I /6128
has been obtai ned.
Antidandruff-Shampoo
With pearl lustre effect, 14.2% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Octopi rox 0.50%
10.00%
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d 40. 00%
D Genapol PGL 4. 00%
P i roctone 01 ami ne
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Gl ycol Di stearate (and) Cocamide MEA (and)
PPG-4 Deceth-4
Perfume 0.30%
Water 34.20%
Dyestuff s ol uti on q. s .
Genagen CAB 6. 00%
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
E Sodium chl ori de 1 . OO%
P rocedure:
I Mix A and B. I 1 C i s added by conti nui ng s t i r r i n g u n t i l the
s ol uti on i s cl ear. I11 One af ter another the components o f D
are added t o 11. I V I f necessary adj us t the pH. V F i nal l y
adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th E .
Formula B I /6126
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Shampoos 443
Conditioning Shampoo, Clear
Texapon N25
Lamepon S
Comperlan OD
Lamequat L
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Medium viscous, WAS 16%
Formula No. T61-65
Conditioning Shampoo, Clear
Texapon N25/N40
Texapon K14 S speci al
Dehyquart E
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Low viscous, WAS 12%
Formula No. T61-67
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Clear
Texapon N25
Dehyton K
Lamepon S
Lamepon UD
Lamequat L
Lamesoft LMG
Perfume
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 19%
P reparati on: Lamesoft LMG i s di ssol ved i n Texapon
par t o f i t ) and the other substances are added i n
gi ven above.
Formula No. T61-70
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Sulfur
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Lamepon UD
Comperlan KD
Bi oschwefel f l u i d
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Medium vi scous, WAS 19%
Formula No. T61-72
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
35.0
15.0
1.0
4.0
0.2
0.5
44.3
%w/w
20.0
20.0
3. 5
3.5
53.0
%w/w
25.0
15.0
20.0
5. 0
1. 5
1. 5
0. 3
31 . 7
N25 ( or i n a
the order
%w/w
40.0
15.0
5.0
1.5
0. 2
0. 3
1. 5
36.5
444 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Shampoo with Protein
%W/W
-
I Texapon CS paste 90. 0
Hydagen P 2.0
Comperlan LP 5. 0
Water 3.0
Note: WAS 58%, paste
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents shown i n the formul a are mixed
together and mel ted a t approx. 75C.
Formula No. T65-08
Herbal Shampoo in Cream Form
%w/w
S i egert S teari n L2 SM 10.0
I Texapon CS paste 35. 0
Tri ethanol ami ne 4. 0
Sodium chl ori de 3. 0
Water 45.0
I 1 Hexaplant Ri chter 3. 0
Note: AS 34%, WAS 20%, paste, pH 6-7
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents shown i n the formul a are mixed
together and mel ted a t approx. 75C. Hexaplant Ri chter i s
added below 40C.
Formula No. T65-10
I
I 1
I11
Softening Shampoo in Cream Form with Guar Derivative
%w/W
Texapon N70 20.0
Comperlan 100 3. 0
Cuti na AGS 3. 0
Water 42.4
Sodium chl ori de 0. 8
Cosmedia Guar C261 0. 8
Water 70-8OC 30. 0
Note: WAS 17%
P reparati on: Phases I and I 1 are heated t o approx. 80C and
mixed together sl owl y whi l e s t i r r i n g conti nuousl y. When they
have cool ed t o under 40C, Phase 111, which has al s o been
al l owed t o cool , i s added.
Formula No. T65-11
I
I 1
Cream-Shampoo with Ampholyte
Texapon CS paste
Dehyton G
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Water
Sodium chl ori de
%w/w
35.0
7. 0
10.0
45.0
3. 0
Note: WAS 36%, pH 6-7
P reparati on: Phases I and I 1 are heated t o approx. 8OC whi l e
bei ng sl owl y mixed together and s t i r r e d conti nuousl y. When the
mi xture has cool ed t o under 40C, the pH i s regul ated wi th
tri ethanol ami ne.
Formula No. T65-13
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 445
Cristal Clear Shampoo
Component:
Texapon NSO
P l antaren 2000 UP
Dehyton K
Lamequat L
Arl ypon F
Eumulgin L
Perfume o i l 200 192 B
Water, preservati ves
Vi s cos i ty i n mPas, 20C/after storage: 2400
Hi nt: The choi ce o f perfume i nfl uences the col our
F ormul ati on No. : 93/109/9p
Cristal Clear Shampoo
.- Comeonenti __
Texapon NSO
P l antaren 2000 UP
Dehyton K
Arl ypon F
Eumulgin L
Perfume o i l 200 288
Water, preservati ves
Vi s cos i ty i n mPas, 2OC/after storage: 12,000
Hi nt: The choi ce o f perfume i nfl uences the col our
Formul at i on No. : 93/109/6p
3
25. 0
5. 0
8. 0
3. 0
1. 5
1 . o
0. 5
up t o 100
s tabi 1 i t y .
4b
20. 0
5. 0
8. 0
3. 0
1. 0
0. 5
up t o 100
s tabi 1 i t y
Cristal Clear Shampoo
- Component:
Texapon NSO 20. 0
P l antaren 2000 UP 5. 0
Dehyton K 8. 0
Arl ypon F 2. 5
Eumulgin L 1 . o
Perfume o i l 200 288 0. 5
Water, preservati ves up t o 100
Vi s cos i ty i n mPas, P OC/after storage: 2400
Hi nt: The choi ce o f perfume i nfl uences the col our s t a bi l i t y.
F ormul ati on No . : 93/109/5P
Cristal Clear Shampoo
- Component:
Texapon NSO
P l antaren 2000 UP
Dehyton K
Arl ypon F
Aethoxal B
Perfume o i l 200 288
Vi s cos i ty i n mPas, ZOC/after storage: 12400
Hi nt: The choi ce o f perfume i nfl uences the col our
F ormul ati on No. : 93/109/3P
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
4b
25. 0
5. 0
10. 0
3. 5
1 . o
0. 5
s tabi 1 i t y
446 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Everyday Mild Conditioning Shampoo
(Formula 92-0213)
Mi ranol C2M Conc. NP
Rhodapon ES
Mi ratai ne BET-0-30
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
J aguar C-14 COS
P ropylene Gl ycol
C i t r i c Aci d
D . I . Water
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
B1 endi np Procedure:
Step A:
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel .
% BY Weight
20. 0
20.3
4. 9
2.0
0. 2
1 . o
Q. S . t o pH 6-7
51. 6
Q.S.
Heat t o 50C. Wi th smooth
C-14 COS. Mix u n t i l uni form
0- 4. 5. When uni form. bl end
agi tati on, sl owl y s i f t i n J aguar
and add C i t r i c Aci d Q. S . t o pH 4.
i n P ropylene Gl ycol , Mi ranol C2M Conc: N.P. and Rhodapon ES.
S1 owly bl end i n BET-0-30. Shampoo w i 11 thi cken wi th betai ne
addi ti on. Mix u n t i l uni form and adj us t pH t o 6. 0- 7. 0 wi th
C i t r i c Aci d.
Step B:
Heat system t o 70-75C and add Alkamuls EGMS/C. Mix u n t i l
compl etel y uni form and then al l ow system t o cool t o 40-45C
and add Fragrance, Dye(s) and P reservati ve.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Amearance @ 25C: P earl escent L i qui d
pH' (as i s ) : . 6. 0- 7. 0
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 4,000-6,000 CPS
I Non-Vol a t i 1 es 19-21
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate,
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate, Sodium Chl ori de, Gl ycol S tearate,
Oleamidopropyl Betai ne, Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl ori de,
C i t r i c Aci d.
Economy Shampoo
(Formula 92-0417)
% BY Weight
Rhodapex NA61 6. 5
A1 kamide DC 212/S 0. 4
C el l os i z e QP 30,000H (Union Carbi de) 1 . o
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve q . s .
Water 92. 1
Bl endi ng Procedure: Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and warm
t o 45-5OC. Wi th rapi d, but smooth agi tati on, s i f t sl owl y the
C el l os i z e QP 30,000H i nt o heated water so as t o avoi d clumping.
Mix unt i l system i s compl etel y cl ear and uni form. Sl owl y bl end
Rhodapex NA61, fol l owed by Alkamide DC212/S. Cool t o 40-45C
wi th moderate agi tati on. A t 40-45C, add fragrance, dye and
preservat i ve.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance @ 25C: Cl ear l i q u i d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C (cps): Brookf i el d RVT #4 spi ndl e
Approximate % S ol i ds : 5. 3
@ 20 rpm: 1200-1700
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Shampoos 447
Family Shampoo
A .
B.
C .
D.
Celquat L 200 (P olyquaternium-4)
Deionized Water
Methylparaben
Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxyethy Hydrolyzed
TEA-Lauryl S ul f ate
Supro-Tein V (TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (and)
Cocamide MEA
Fragrance
Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15)
Col l agen)
Sorbi to1 )
%w/w
0. 10
5 7 . 2 5
0. 15
1 . a0
30. 00
6. 00
5. 00
0. 30
0. 20
P rocedure:
1 . Heat Phase A t o 70C. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
2. Add Phase B. Mi x t o i ncorporate.
3. Add Phase C . Mi x t o i ncorporate.
4. Add Phase D below 40C. Mi x t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es:
i s l e f t cl ean, refreshed, and s of t t o the touch.
Formula #HS-107
Thi s one shampoo can s ati s f y the enti r e f ami l y' s needs. Hai r
Collagen Gel Shampoo
%J&
A . Bi oterge AS-40 (Sodium C16-18 Ol ef i n Sul fonate) 44. 00
Monami d 150-LW (Lauramide DEA) 3.40
Dei oni zed Water 44.60
B . Mi ranol C2M Concentrate (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 6. 00
Collagen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 50 (Hydrolyzed Collagen) 2. 00
C . Fragrance, preservati ve, col or q. s .
C i t r i c Aci d t o pH 6. 5 q. s .
NaCl q. s . *
*q. s , t o desi red vi s cos i ty
P rocedure:
1 . Heat Phase A t o 60C. Mix c ar ef ul l y u n t i l cl ear.
2 . Add Phase B . Mi x t o i ncorporate.
3. Add Phase C when product i s below 40C. Mi x t o i ncorporate.
P roperti es:
protei n shampoo f o r devel opi ng body and i mparti ng a cl ean,
natural l ook.
Formula #HS-105
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Suggested Formulations
Mi l d, creamy l ather, ri ns es readi l y from hai r . A cl ear gel
448 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Frequent-Use Antidandruff Shampoo Plus Conditioner
Vanseal CS, Cocoyl Sarcosine, enhances the qual i ty and
quanti ty o f the l ather produced by the pri mary surfactant,
ammonium l aur yl s ul f ate. Both are m i l d s urf actants that make
t h i s shampoo safe f or dai l y use. The formul a i s thi ckened wi th
a s ynergi s ti c combi nati on o f Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum
S i l i c ate and Hydroxypropyl Guar. The pri mary hai r condi ti oni ng
agent i s P olyquaternium-10 and Zi nc P yri thi one i s the anti -
dandruff agent.
I nqredi ent: % by Weipht*
A: Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate 1 . oo
Dei oni zed Water 47.35
C i t r i c Aci d 0. 05
Hydroxypropyl Guar** 1.00
B: Dei oni zed Water
Vanseal CS, Cocoyl Sarcosine**
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate
P ol yquaterni um- l o***
C : Sodium Hydroxide (25% S ol n. ) t o pH 6. 5
Zi nc P yri thi one***
P reservati ve, Dye, Fragrance
15.00
3. 00
30.00
0. 50
q. s.
9, s.
2.10
*As Received Basi s
**J aguar HP-60
***Polymer LR-400
****Zi nc Omadine, 48% Di spersi on
M i x i ng Procedure:
s ol uti on i s achieved. Add Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate and Vanseal
CS and conti nue mi xi ng u n t i l uni form and cl ear. Deaerate if
necessary. Heat P art A water t o 50C and add Veegum HS whi l e
s t i r r i n g wi th a propel l er mi xer a t 1800 rpm. Continue mi xi ng
f or 1 hour. Remove from heat and al l ow the batch t o cool . Add
C i t r i c Aci d and then the Hydroxypropyl Guar. Continue mi xi ng for
15 mi nutes. Slow the mi xer t o 500 rpm and add the par t B mi xture
Continue mi xi ng and cool i ng u n t i l smooth and uni form. Add P art
C i ngredi ents i n the order shown, mi xi ng u n t i l uni form. Package
i n opaque bottl es .
Formula P roperti es :
Mix the Polyquaternium-10 i n the P art B water u n t i l a cl ear
Vi s cos i ty: 7000t-1000 cps ( Brookf i el d Model LVT a t 60 RPM)
pH: 6. 5+- 0. 2
SOURCE: R . T . Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Formula No. 456
Shampoos 449
Gentle Shampoo
A cl ear, moderately vi scous shampoo that provi des r i c h,
l ubri cous l ather and softness t o the hai r . Thi s pH-balanced
formul a i s extremel y gentl e and provi des ef f ec ti ve cl eansi ng
wi thout harsh s tri ppi ng.
% by Weight
P art A :
Deionized Water
Methylparaben
Lauroamphoglycinate (and) Tri deceth S ul f ate (Mi ranol
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (Ami soft CT-12)
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (Ami soft CS-11)
PEG-1 50 Di stearate
Sodium PCA (Aj i dew N-SO)
P art 8:
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methyl i s othi az ol -
Fragrance ( Movi l l e #84504)
C i t r i c Aci d
Compoundi ng Procedure:
Add part B.
MHT)
i none (Kathon CG)
Heat par t A t o 65C u n t i l compl etel y homogeneous. Cool
Col or: L i ght straw- cl ear
pH: 5. 65
Vi s cos i ty: 3,750 cps ( # 4 spi ndl e @ 10 rpm)
Conditioning Shampoo
Milky cloudy, high viscosity.
Materi al/CTFA-Index
A: Water
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate
Bel s i l ADM 6057 E/Amodimethicone (and) Tal l owtri mon-
P reservat i ves, fragrances, pi gments
Homogenise A wel l , mix Bel s i l ADM 6057 E .
0 : Comperl an KD/Cocami de DEA
ium Chl ori de (and) Nonoxynol-10
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 551 AH
45.55
0. 20
30.00
20. 00
1 . oo
1. 50
1 .oo
0 . 0 5
0. 20
0 . 5 0
t o 40C.
76.50%
0 . 8 0
3. 00
16.70
3 . 0 0
q . s .
450 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Repair Shampoo
(Shampoo for Damaged Hair)
I naredi ents:
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (2M E . O. )
PEG-I8 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate ( Anti l 171)
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne L-7)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8851)
P ropylene Gl ycol
Dimethicone/Sodium P ol v PG-ProDvl Dimethicone
T hi os ul f ate Copolymer- ( Abi l S' 201)
Quaterni um-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3272)
Col or
Fragrance
P reservati ves
C i t r i c Aci d
Ammonium Chl ori de
P rocedure:
1. Di ssol ve the Tetrasodium EDTA i n
2. Add i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng
3. S l owl y mix i n the PEG-18 Gl ycery
4. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the 25% so
Note: For manufacturi na ease, a 25%
a i r entrapment.
%w/w
0. 1
60. 5
10.0
20. 0
1. 5
5.0
0. 5
1 . o
1 . o
0. 4
Q . S .
Q . S .
Q. S .
Q . S .
t o pH 7. 0
the water.
between addi ti ons . Avoid
G1 ycol Di o l eococoate.
uti on o f Ammonium Chl ori de.
s ol uti on o f Ammonium
Chl ori de can be made. .
ALS/ALES and Ammonium Chl ori de.
Note: SLS/SLES and Sodium Chl ori de may be s ubs ti tuted f o r the
Ethnic Hair Care
Cream Conditioning Shampoo
I nnredi ents: %w/w
Water 37. 6
Sodi um Lauryl Sul f ate 45.0
Gl yceryl S tearate (Tegi n) 3. 0
Octyl P al mi tate (Tegosoft OP) 0. 5
I sopropyl P al mi tate (Tegosoft P) 0. 5
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne F) 7. 0
Quaternium-80 ( Abi l Quat 3272) 0. 4
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 88183) 0. 5
J oj oba O i l 0. 5
C i t r i c Aci d (25% S ol uti on) t o pH 6. 8
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne (and) Gl yceryl Laurate
( Anti l HS 60) 5. 0
Fragrance Q . S .
Sodium Chl ori de (25% s ol uti on) Q. S .
P rocedure:
1. Heat the water t o 60-65C. Add the Sodium Lauryl S ul fate,
Tegin, and the Tegosofts. Mi x u n t i l f u l l y di spersed.
2. Begin cool i ng. Cool t o 45C.
3. Add the remai ni ng i ngredi ents i n order.
4. Adj ust vi s cos i ty.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemlcal Corp. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Shampoos 451
Hair Shampoo
With silky lustre effect, 16.5% active ingredient
ReciDe:
Hostapon SCID
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
Water
Genaool LRO l i a ui d
Sodium Laureth ' S ul f ate
Genapol SBE
D i sodi um Laureth Sul fosucci nate
Perfume
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Genapol TSM
PEG-3 Di s tearate (and) Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservat i ve
Sodi um chl ori de
2.00%
53.00%
30.00%
5.00%
0.30%
2.00%
5.00%
2.00%
q . s .
q . s .
0.70%
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve A by warming s t i r r i n g i n B (60C).
I 1 Cool down and add the components o f C a t 35C under s t i r r i ng.
I11 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th 0.
Formula B I /2130
With pearl lustre effect, 19.6% active ingredient
Hair Shampoo
Recipe:
Hostaoon S C I
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
Water
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol PGL
Gl ycol Di s tearate (and) Cocamide MEA (and)
PPG-4 Deceth-10
Perfume
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Sodium chl ori de
5.00%
40.30%
2.00%
6. 00%
40.00%
5.00%
0.30%
q.s.
q.s.
1.40%
Procedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n warmed B.
I 1 One af t er another the components o f C are added t o I.
111 If necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
Formula B I /2128
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics 8, T oi l etr i es
452 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo
Clear, 14.4% active ingredient
Reci pe :
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
B Genapol SBE
D i sodi um Laureth S ul fosucci nate
Perfume
Water
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
3 0 . 00%
6 . 0 0%
0.30%
55 * 00%
2. 00%
5.00%
q. s .
q . s .
C Sodium chl ori de 1 . 70%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
111 F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I/1128
Hair Shampoo
Clear, 16.9% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
B Perfume
C Water
D Natri umhydroxi d
E Hostapon LEC
Laureth-3 Carboxyl i c Aci d
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
40.00%
0. 30%
52. 50%
0. 20%
4.00%
2.00%
q. s .
q . s .
1 . OO% F Sodium chl ori de
P rocedure:
I Mix A and B. I 1 Di ssol ve D i n C .
I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i nt o I .
IV One af ter another the components o f E are added t o 1 1 1 .
V I f necessary adj us t the pH.
V I F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th F .
Formula B I/1124
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Shampoos 453
Hair Shampoo
With pearl lustre effect, 12.2% active ingredient
Reci pe :
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Water
Genapol TS powder
PEG-3 Di stearate
Sodium chl ori de
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
B Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Perfume
35.00%
53.20%
1.50%
1.50%
8.00%
q. s .
9 , s .
0.30%
C Sodium chl ori de 0.50%
Procedure:
I Mel t the components of A a t 70C.
I 1 S t i r u n t i l cool .
111 A t 40C add the components o f B t o 11.
I V I f necessary adj ust the pH.
V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I /2124
Hair Shampoo
With pearl lustre effect, 16.0% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
40.00%
B Genapol AMG 8.00%
Magnesi um-PEG-3 Cocami de S ul f ate
Genapol PGM conc. 5.00%
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (and) Gl ycol Di stearate
(and) Cocamide MEA
Perfume 0.30%
30.70%
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on q. s .
P reservati ve q. s .
Genagen CAB 6.00%
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
C Sodium chl ori de 2.00%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 If necessary adj ust the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I/2129
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
454 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo
Clear, 18.4% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
B Hostapon LEC
Laureth-3 Carboxyl i c Aci d
NaOH (50% i n water)
Perfume
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Water
D-Panthenol
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff sol u t i on
P reservati ve
35.00%
5 . 3 0 %
0.70%
0.30%
1 .OO%
40. 45%
0 . 5 0 %
8 . 0 0 %
q. s .
q. s .
C Sodium chl ori de 0.75%
Procedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I /1126
Hair Shampoo
For greasy hair, clear, 19.4% active ingredient
Recipe:
Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth S ul f ate
Hostapur SAS 60
Sodium C14-17 Sec. Al kyl S ul fonate
Extrapon 5 speci al
Perfume
Water
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Sodium chl ori de
50.00%
6. 00%
3.00%
0. 30%
32.70%
6. 00%
q. s .
4, s .
2.00%
P rocedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
I 11 F i nal l y adj ust the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I /6123
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f or Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Shampoos 455
Hair Shampoo
For every day, clear, 15.2% active ingredient
Reci De :
Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul fate
Perfume
Gel i ta Sol C
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Lau r e t h-3
Sodium chl ori de
P rocedure:
I One af t er another the components of B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I /1112
Hair Shampoo
For every day, clear, 15.3% active ingredient
35.00%
8.00%
0.30%
1 .OO%
43.20%
9, s .
q. s.
10.00%
1.00%
1.50%
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodi um Laureth Sul f ate
B Genapol AMG
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S ul f ate
Hostapon KCG
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Perfume
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
30.00%
a. 00%
5.00%
0.30%
46.70%
q . s .
q . s .
6.00%
2.00%
C Sodium chl ori de 2.00%
P rocedure:
I One af t er another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
111 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C .
Formula B I /6119
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons for Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
456 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo
Mild, for every day, clear, 12.8% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d 35. 00%
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Gl ycol Di stearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocamido-
propyl Betai ne
Perfume 0.30%
Tocopherol acetate 0. 05%
Extrapon sage 0. 50%
Extrapon blam mi nt 0.50%
Honey 0 . 50%
Extrapon camomile speci al 0. 50%
Bel s i l DMC 6032 0.30%
Di methi cone Copol yo1
Dyestuff s ol uti on q. s .
P reservati ve 9. s .
C Cosmedia Guar C 261 0. 20%
Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl ori de
D Water 53.35%
E Genagen CAB 10. 00%
B Genapol PGC 2. 00%
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Sodi urn chl ori de 1.80%
P rocedure:
I One af ter another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 Di ssol ve C i n D.
111 S t i r I 1 i nt o I .
I V I f necessary adj ust the pH.
V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th E .
Hair Shampoo
Clear, 15.8% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Hostaoon S C I D 2. 00%
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
B Water
C Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Genapol SBE
D i sodi um Laureth S ul fosucci nate
Perfume
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Genagen CAB
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
Dyestuff sol u t i on
P reservati ve
D Sodium chl ori de
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve A by warming s t i r r i n g i n B (60C).
I 1 Cool down and add the components o f C at 35C
I11 I f necessary adj ust the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Formulas B I /6141 and B I /1127
54.30%
30.00%
5. 00%
0.30%
2 . 00%
5.00%
q. s .
q . s .
1.40%
under s t i r r i ng.
Shampoos 457
Herbal Shampoo, Clear
Texapon ASV
Hexaplant Ri chter
Water
Note: WAS 14%, l ow vi scous
Formula No. T61-23
Dead Nettle Extract Shampoo, Clear
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KD
C eti ol HE
Dead nettl e extract (Extractum Lamii Al bi f l ui d)
Water
Note: WAS 14%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-25
Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced
Texapon TH
Dehyton AB30
Comperlan KD
P aravi tal 9B
Apple aroma
Perfume o i l appl e
Col or s ol uti on 2% P ine needle green 5/067114
Water
Note: WAS 2 0 . 5 %, l ow vi scous, desi red pH: 5-6
Formula No. T61-27
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid, Very Acidic
Texapon A
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Sodi urn s ul f ate
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: WAS 17%, medium vi scous, desi red pH: 4.0-4.5
Formula No. T61-29
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Dehyton AB 30
Water
Note: WAS 15%, l ow vi scous
Formula No. T61-30
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
50. 0
3. 0
47. 0
%w/w
30.0
6. 0
5. 0
0.5
59.0
%w/w
30.0
10.0
2.0
2. 0
0. 2
0.5
0. 1
55. 2
%w/w
40.0
3. 0
2. 0
2. 0
0. 2
52.8
%w/w
50.0
50.0
458 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Herbal Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N40
Euperlan PK 810
Cornperlan KD
Hexapl ant Ri chter
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 18%
Formula No. T64-62
Mild, Pearly Gloss Shampoo
Texapon SEN
Euperlan PK 810
Comperlan F
Sol uvi t- Ri chter
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. T64-64
%w/w
48.0
5. 0
3. 0
3. 0
1 . o
40.0
%w/w
30. 0
12. 0
4. 0
2. 0
0. 5
51 . 5
Shampoo for Dry Hair, With Protein
a/,w/w
I Hydagen P 2. 0
Dehyton A8 30 3. 0
Water 29. 0
I 1 Texapon N25 40. 0
Euperlan P K 810 5. 0
C eti ol HE 2. 0
Sodium chl ori de 2. 5
Water 16. 5
Note: WAS 14%
P reparati on: Hydagen P i s homogeneously mixed i n Dehyton A8 30
and water (approx. 60C) and al l owed t o cool . The remaining
i ngredi ents are then added.
Formula No. T64-65
Protein Shampoo, Very Skin Compatible
s6w/w
Texapon K14S spec1 a1 25.0
Texapon EVR 25.0
Dehyton G 5. 0
Hydagen P 0. 5
Water 44. 5
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. T64-66
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 459
Keratin Neutralizing Shampoo
Stepanol AM Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate)
Witcamide 65 9 (Lauramide DEA)
Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl Betai ne)
Mayphos 5C10 (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate)
Cati oni c Col agen P ol ypepti des
Kera-Quat WKP (Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Deionized Water
Fragrance, P reservati ves
Kerati n)
C i t r i c Aci d q. s .
%w/w
40.0
4. 0
15.0
5. 0
3. 0
1 . 0
32. 0
q. s .
t o pH=4
P rocedure:
homogeneous, add the c i t r i c aci d sl owl y and wi th gentl e agi tati on
t o pH=4.
P roperti es:
shi ne t o damaged hai r . Two cati oni c protei ns condi ti on, protect
and r e- vi tal i z e the hai r . Cati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti de, a sub-
s tanti ve hi gh mol ecul ar weight protei n, i s very s tabl e at low
O H' S and i s oar ti c ul ar l y ef f ec ti ve at s eal i ng and protecti ng the
M i x a l l i ngredi ents together except the C i t r i c Aci d. When
A hi gh foaming, mi l d, neutral i z i ng shampoo. Restores body and
substanti ve quaterni zed kerati n, adds back hai r . Keri-Quat WKP, a
essenti a1 ami no aci ds
and combabi l i ty.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . :
Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo
os t duri ng processi ng and improves sh
F ormul ati on #HS-301
ne
Mackol 70NS
Mackanate OP
Mackanate WGD
Mackam WGB
C i t r i c Aci d t o pH 5 . 5
Sodi urn Chl ori de qs t o vi scosi ty=2000 cps
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Weight ,%
12. 0
20. 0
8 . 0
5.0
9, s .
100. 0
Procedure:
1. Add surfactants t o water and heat t o 60C.
2. Blend unt i l cl ear.
3. Adj ust pH t o 5 . 5 .
4 . Add remai ni ng components and adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th sodium
chl ori de.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
460 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Shampoo
Slightly yellow, clear, low viscosity
Materials/CTFA-I ndex:
Bel s i 1 DMC 6031 / Di methi cone Copol yo1
Water
Genapol CRT 40/DEA Lauryl Sul phate
P reservati ves, fragrances
D i sso
Tempe
Formu
5. 00%
60.00
35.00
9 , s .
ve B el s i l DMC 6031 i n water, mix i n Genapol CRT 40
ature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks
ati on 222 AH
Shampoo
Clear, liquid.
Mater 1 aljCTFA- I ndex :
Bel s i 1 DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate
~
Water
Genapol LRO/Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Comperl an KD/Cocami de DEA
Sodium Chl ori de
P reservati ves, fragrances
2. 00%
56. 00
35.00
3.00
2.00
q. s .
Di ssol ve B el s i l DMC 6035 i n water, mix i n Genapol LRO. Add
Comperlari K D, regul ate the vi s cos i ty wi th NaCl.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 284 AH
Shampoo
Clear, high-viscosity. Shampoo with good conditioning effect
Mat e r i al[_CTFA - I n d e x :
Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Water
Bel s i 1 ADM 6042 E/Amodi methi cone and Emu1 s i f i er
Texapon NA/Arnmonium Laureth S ul f ate
Ammoni urn Chl o r i de
P reservati ves, fragrances
22. 50%
50. 00
4. 00
22.50
1 . oo
q. s .
Di ssol ve HOE S 3267 i n water, mix i n the amodimethicone and
emul s i f i er . Add the ammonium l aureth s ul f ate and adj us t t o the
desi red vi s cos i ty wi th the ammonium chl ori de.
F ormul ati on 541 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Shampoos 461
Mild, Clear Shampoo
Component:
P l antaren PS 10 15. 0
Lamepon S 15. 0
G1 uadi n Almond 1 . o
NaCl 2. 0
Perfume o i l q. s.
Water, pres ervati ve up t o 100
pH-value: 6, 5
WAS: 15
V i scosi t y mPas: 10000
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 92/184/2
the product.
Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein
Component:
P l antaren PS 10
Nutri l an 1-50
Gl yceri n 86%
Euperlan PK 900
Perfume o i l
NaCl
Water, pres ervati ve
pH val ue: 5,5
WAS: 10
%
17. 0
2. 0
1 . o
3. 0
q. s
2. 2
up t o 100
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 1500
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s cos l ty o f
F ormul ati on No. : 92/184/40
the product.
Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein
P1 antaren 1200
Texapon N 70
Nutri l an 1-50
Euperlan PK 3000-AM
NaCl
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
pH-value: 5, 5
WAS: 11%
Vi s cos i ty mPas: 4500
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/44
the product.
%
6. 0
11 . 0
2. 0
1 . o
3. 0
9, s .
up t o 100
may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
SOURCE: Hen k el KGaA: Model Formulae
462 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
I naredi ents: %w/w
Tetrasodi um EDTA 0. 1
Water 45.0
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (30%) 18.0
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate (30%) 25. 0
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne L-7) 4. 0
Quaternium-80 ( Abi l Quat 3272) 0. 3
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l 8 8852) 0. 3
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi 1 B 88183) 0. 3
C i t r i c Aci d t o pH 6. 5
Fragrance Q. S.
Col or Q. S .
P reservati ve Q.S.
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (and) Gl yceryl Laurate
( A nti l HS 60) 4.0
Gl ycol Di stearate (and) Stearath- 4 (Tego P earl N 100) 3. 0
Ammonium Chl ori de (25% s ol uti on) As needed t o adj ust vi s cos i ty
Procedure:
1. Di ssol ve the Tetrasodium EDTA i n the water.
2. Add i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng between addi ti ons . Avoid
3. Sl owl y mix i n the A nti l HS 60. Mix u n t i l di spersed.
4 . Add the Tego P earl N 100.
5. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the 25% s ol uti on o f Ammonium Chl ori de
a i r entrapment.
Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair
I naredi ents:
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (30%)
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate (30%)
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne L-7)
Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8851)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l B 88183)
D i methi cone P ropyl PG-Betai ne (Abi 1 B 9950)
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance
Col or
P reservati ve
PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate ( Anti l 171)
Gl ycol Di stearate (and) Steareth- 4 (Tego P earl N 100) 3. 0
Ammonium Chl ori de (25% s ol uti on) As needed t o adj us t vi s cos i ty
Procedure:
1. Di ssol ve the Tetrasodium EDTA i n the water.
2. Add i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng between addi ti ons . Avoi d
3. S l owl y mix i n the PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate. Mix u n t i l
4. Add the pearl i ng mi xture.
5. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the 25% s ol uti on of Ammonium Chl ori de.
a i r entrapment.
di spersed.
46w/w
0. 1
41 . 5
20.0
25. 0
7.0
0. 3
0. 3
0.3
1 . o
t o pH 6. 5
Q. S .
Q. S .
Q. S .
1. 5
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested F ormul ati ons
Shampoos 463
Milk Powder Shampoo
Texapon SG
Comperlan KD
Mi l k powder
Water
Note: WAS 14%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-31
Shampoo, with Collagen, Pearly
Texapon I E S
Cuti na AGS
Col l agen CLR
Mi l k powder
Water
Note: AS 34%, WAS 30%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T64-33
Sulfur Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon EVR
Aerosi l 200
S ul f ur, preci pi tated
Water
Note: WAS 21%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T64-34
Sulfur Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon SG
Texapon MLS
Comperlan KD
Bi oschwefel - F l ui d
Water
Note: WAS 15%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-35
%w/w
50. 0
3. 0
2. 0
45.0
%w/w
50. 0
4. 0
3.0
3. 0
40.0
%w/w
60.0
3. 0
3. 0
34. 0
%w/w
20. 0
20. 0
4.0
3.0
53.0
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein
%w/w
I Hydagen P 5. 0
Texapon EVR 15. 0
I 1 Texapon EVR 15.0
Water 64.5
Sodium chl ori de 0. 5
Note: WAS 11%, vi scous
P reparati on: Phase I i s homogeneously mixed a t 50-60C and cool ed
agai n before the remai ni ng i ngredi ents are added one af ter
another.
Formula No. T64-36
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
464 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo
P ati oni c 138C
PPG Masi l SF 60,000
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
Wi tconate SXS
Di s t i 11 ed Water
B i oterge AS-40
Kathon CG
pH: 6 . 4
Vi s cos i ty: 24, 500 cps
Foam (Minutes) : Foam H20
0. 0 400 75
1 . o 400 100
3.0 400 100
Wet Combing: s l i ght l y d i f f i c u l t
Dry Combing: easy, except where knots are
S tabi 1 i ti es:
Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 cycl es
40F: separati on af ter 2 weeks
l l OF : no change af ter 6 weeks
Centi fuge Resul ts: separates af ter 30 mi n . @ 5000 rpm
Descri pti on o f System: wi th s i l i cone/ no Ritavena 5
Formula 11 4-2
Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo
P ati oni c 122A
PPG Masi l SF 60,000
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
D i s t i 1 l ed Water
Bi oterge AS-40
Kathon CG
- Wt %
8. 00
1 . oo
2. 00
3.00
2 . 0 0
46. 45
37.50
0. 05
Wt%
11 . oo
1 . oo
2 .oo
3.00
45. 45
37.50
0. 05
pH: 5. 7
V i scosi t v : 12,000 CCJ S
Foam (Mi hutes j : Foam H20
0. 0 310 75
1 . o 310 100
3. 0 310 100
Wet Combing: s l i ght l y d i f f i c u l t
Dry Combing: easy, except where knots are
Freeze/Thaw: no change af ter 3 cycl es
Centri fuge Resul ts: separates af ter 20 min. @ 5000 rpm
Des cri pti on o f System: wi th s i l i cone/ no Ri tavena 5
Formula 11 4-4
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Ri tavena 5 Suggested F ormul ati ons
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
11OF: no change af ter 6 weeks
Shampoos 465
Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo
P ati oni c 122A
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i ta EGDS
P ropylparaben
Di s t i 11 ed Water
Bi oterge AS-40
Methylparaben
Ritavena 5
Kathon CG
pH: 5.7
Vi s cos i ty: 12,500 cps
Foam ( Mi nutes) : Foam H20
0.0 340 75
1 ;o 340 100
3.0 340 100
Wet Combing: s l i ght l y d i f f i c u l t
Dry Combing: easy, except where knots are
S tabi 1 i t i e s :
Freeze/Thaw: no change af ter 3 cycl es
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
11OF: separati on af ter 24 hours
Centri fuge Resul ts: separates af ter 10 min. C 5000 rpm
Descri pti on o f System: wi thout s i l i cone/ wi th Ri tavena 5
Formula 1 1 4-42
Wt%
1 1 .oo
2.00
3.00
0.05
44.10
37.50
0.15
2.00
0.20
Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo
Wt%
P ati oni c 138C 8.00
Ri tapeg 150 DS 2.00
R i ta EGDS 3.00
Wi tconate SXS 2.00
P ropylparaben 0.05
D i s t i 11 ed Water 45.10
Bi oterge AS-40 37.50
Methylparaben 0.15
Ri tavena 5 2.00
Kathon CG 0.20
pH: 6.7
Vi s cos i ty: 35,000 cps
Foam (Mi nutes): Foam H20
0.0 370 75
1 . o 360 100
3.0 360 100
Wet Combing: very d i f f i c u l t
Dry combing: very easy
Stabi 1 i ti es:
Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 cycl es
40F: no change af ter 6 weeks
llOF: no change af ter 6 weeks
Centri fuge Resul ts: not run
Descri pti on of System: no s i l i cone/ wi th Ri tavena 5
Formula 1 1 4-43
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Co r p . : RITAVENA 5 Suggested Fo r mu l at i o n s
466 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil Shampoo in Clear Form
Texapon N25/N40
C eti ol HE
Sodi um chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%, vi scous
Formula No. T66-01
Texapon N25/N40
Aethoxal B
Comperlan KD
Water
Note: WAS 17%,
Formula No. T66
Oil Shampoo in Clear Form
ow v
03
%w/w
50.0
10.0
3.0
37.0
%w/w
50.0
20.0
3.0
27.0
scous
Mink Oil Shampoo, Clear
Texapon MG
C eti ol HE
Mink o i l
Water
Note: WAS 14%, l ow vi scous
Formula No. T66-05
%w/w
50.0
10.0
0. 5
39. 5
Oi l Shampoo, Pear l y
Texapon EVR
C eti ol HE
Water
Note: WAS 18%, vi scous
Formula No. T67-02
Oil Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon SG
Texapon I ES
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%, vi scous
Formula No. T67-04
Oil Shampoo with Egg, Pearly
Texapon EVR
C eti ol HE
Egg yol k, l i qui d, techn.
Water
Note: WAS 18%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T67-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
50. 0
10. 0
40. 0
%w/w
40.0
15. 0
2. 0
43.0
%w/w
5 0 . 0
5. 0
0. 5
44.5
Shampoos 467
Paste Shampoo
(Formula 9-0204)
Rhodapon SB 8208s
Alkamide DS 280/S 3. 0
% By WeiQht
50. 0
A1 kamul s EGMS 2. 5
S teari c Aci d TP 7.5
Sodium Hydroxide (50% Aq. ) 2. 1
Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0.1
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q.S.
Water 34. 8
Blendincl P rocedure: Combine Sodium Hydroxide s ol uti on, Cheelox
100, and water and heat t o 65-70C. Wi th smooth agi tati on sl owl y
bl end S teari c Aci d TP i nt o system. Mi x u n t i l uni form. S l owl y
bl end Rhodapon SB 8208s i nt o system. Wi th smooth agi tati on, heat
system t o 70-75C. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Alkamide
OS 280/S and Alkamuls EGMS. Mix u n t i l uni form and then cool t o
40-45C wi th smooth agi tati on. Add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s),
and P reservati ve.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
Appearance @ 25C*: F i rm, Opaque/Pearlescent P aste
% Non Vol ati l es : 27.5-30.5
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Sodium L auryl S ul fate, S teari c
Acid, Stearamide DEA, Gl ycol Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Fra-
grance, P reservati ve, Tetrasodium EDTA, Dye(s).
*Note: F i nal formul ati on consi stency w i l l be reached af ter
standi ng 7-10 days.
Self Adjusting Shampoo
(Formula 82-0206M)
% Bv Weiqht
RhodaDon LT-6 40. 0
A1 kamide DL-207/S 2.2
Mi ratai ne TM 3. 0
Methocel E4M Premium (Dow) 0. 7
Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0. 2
C i t r i c Aci d O S . t o pH 6-7
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve Q. S.
Sodium Chl ori de 0.5-1 .O
Water 53.2
Bl endi ng Procedure: Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and warm
t o 35-4OC. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, s l owl y s i f t Methocel E4M
Premium i nt o heated water. Mi x u n t i l compl etel y di spersed.
Wi th smooth agi tati on, conti nue heati ng t o 50-55C and bl end i n
Rhodapon LT-6, Alkamide DL-207/S, and Mi ratai ne TM. Mi x u n t i l
compl etel y uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on, bl end i n Cheelox 100
and then cool t o 35-4OC. Adj ust the formul ati on pH t o 6-7 wi th
C i t r i c Aci d as needed and add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and
P reservati ve. Adj ust the formul ati on vi s c os i ty t o 3,000-5,000
cps wi th the j udi ci ous addi ti on o f Sodium Chl ori de as needed.
Appearance @ 25C: Cl ear L i qui d
pH : 6-7
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 3,000-5,000 CPS
% Non Vol ati l es : 20-22
TvDical F ormul ati on P roperti es
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
468 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearled Acid Balanced Geropon T-77 Shampoo
(Formula 91-1114)
Rhodapon L-22 HNC
Geropon T-77
A1 kamul s EGMS/C
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
Ammoni um Chl ori de
Water
% Bv Weight
53. 6
3. 0
1. 0
Q . S .
0. 0- 0. 5
Q . S .
B1 endi na P rocedure:
Charge tank wi th water and Rhodapon L-22 HNC, s tar t heati ng and
mi xi ng. Add Geropon T-77 and Alkamuls EGMS/C and heat (65-7OC)
and mix u n t i l cl ear (Alkamuls EGMS/C mel ted). Cool. Add f rag-
rance, dye and preservati ve a t 35C. Thicken product, i f desi red,
wi th ammonium chl ori de. Adj ust pH, i f desi red, wi th c i t r i c aci d.
Tvpi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance I 3 25C: P earl ed L i qui d
Vi s cos i ty P 25C: 2,000-4,000 CPS
pH :
6-7
% Non Vol ati l e: 19-21
CTFA I denti f i c ati on:
Water, Ammonium Lauryl S ul fate, Sodium Methyl Ol eoyl Taurate,
Gl ycol S tearate, Ammonium Chl ori de, Fragrance, P reservati ve and
Dye.
Clear, Geropon T-77 Shampoo
Formula 92-0301
Rhodapon LSB
Geropon T-77
Fragrance, dye, preservati ve
Sodium Chl ori de
Water
% By Weight
50.0
2. 0
Q.S.
1 .5-2.0
Q.S.
B1 endi na P rocedure:
Charge water and Rhodapon LSB i nt o mi xi ng tank. Add Geropon
T-77, mix and heat u n t i l cl ear. (Heati ng w i l l speed di s s ol uti on,
but product can be prepared a t ambient temperature. ) Cool t o
35C and add fragrance, dye and preservati ve. Add sodium chl ori de
t o thi cken.
Typi cal Formul a t i on P roperti es
Appearance a t 25C: Cl ear l i q u i d
pH P 25C: 7. 2- 7. 8
Vi s cos i ty 25C: 2,000-4,000 CPS
% Nonvol ati l e: 18-20
CTFA I dent i f i cat i on :
Water, Sodi um Laurvl Sul f ate, Sodi um Methvl 01 eovl Taurate,
Sodium Chl ori de, Fragrance, P reservati ve, - Dye.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Shampoos 469
Component:
P1 antaren 1200
Dehyton K
Gluadin Almond
K el tr ol T
Perfume
Water, pres ervati ve
pH-value: 5, 5
WAS: 12
V i scosi t y mPas : 6500
Hi nt: Ki nd and amoun
Pearlescent Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Almond Protein
%
27. 0
2. 0
1 . o
q. s
8 .o
UP t o 100
0 perfume may i n f
the product.
F ormul ati on No. : 90/139/52
V i sco
WAS :
pH-va
Hi nt:
Formu
ience the vi s c os i ty o f
Mild, Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein
Component:
Texapon K 14 S spez.
P1 antaren 2000
Nutri l an 1-50
Euperlan PK 3000-AM
Arl ypon F
NaCl
Perfume
Water, preservat i ve
i t y mPas: 4000
%
27 .E
5. 0
2 . 0
3 . 0
3 . 0
0. 5
q. s
up t o 100
0
ue: 6, 5
Ki nd and amount o f perfume may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
the product.
ati on No.: 92/087/57
Pearlescent Shampoo
Component:
Texapon ALS
P1 antaren 2000
Dehyton K
Lamesoft 156
Monomuls 90-L 12
NaCl
Perfume
Water, ptes ervati ve
pH-Val ue: 5, 5
WAS: 11%
V i scosi t y mPas: 14900
Hi nt: Ki nd and amount o f perfume
F ormul ati on No. : 92/087/78
the product.
%
23 .<
4. 0
7. 0
5. 0
1 . o
0. 2
q. s
up t o 100
may i nf l uence the vi s c os i ty o f
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae
470 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlized Mink Shampoo
P earl escent formul ati ons are the easi est way t o i ntroduce
"heavy duty" hai r condi ti oners such as unsaturated Emulan O i l
o f Mink i nt o shampoos. Thi s formul a i s par ti c ul ar l y ri ch,
contai ni ng Soya S terol as wel l . The Gl ycol Stearate provi des
a pearlescence that can be dramati cal l y enhanced by adding co
Water
Generol 122E5
Cerasynt I P
Emulan, L i ght F racti on
Standapol A
Standapol EA-2
Laurami de DEA
Tetrasodi um EDTA
Perfume, P reservati ve
W t . % =
45.8
1. 0 PEG5 soya s tero
1. 5 Gl ycol stearate
1. 5 Mink O i l
30.0 Ammonium Lauryl
S ul f ate
15.0 Ammonium Laureth
S ul f ate
5. 0
0.2
q. s.
Procedure:
gl ycol stearate. S t i r unt i l they mel t and di sperse. Then add
remai ni ng i ngredi ents ( at RT) i n the sequence shown.
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Heat water t o 55C, add t o i t the soya s terol , mink o i l , and
Low Irritation Shampoo
I nqredi ents:
H20, Dei oni zed
Hetai ne CLA (Canolami dopropyl Betai ne
Standapol ES-2
Hetsorb L-80 (PEG-80 S orbi tan Laurate
P1 antaren 2000
Kathon CG
or .
SE
%
55.68
9. 50
22.50
4.75
7.50
0.07
S peci f i cati ons
pH: 6. 5
Vi s cos i ty #3/12: 5000 cps
Procedure:
I n a s tai nl es s s teel ket t l e combine a l l i ngredi ents whi l e
mi xi ng u n t i l uni form.
SOURCE: Heterene, I nc. : Formula HS 93-84
Shampoos 471
Pearly Gloss Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced
%w/w
Comperlan KD 1 . o
I Texapon N70 15. 0
Euperlan PK771 5. 0
I 1 Sodium chl ori de 2. 4
Water 7. 6
Perfume o i 1 apple
0. 3
Urani n AP col or s ol uti on 2% 3. 0
Water 64.5
I11 Apple aroma 0.2
P i ne needle green 5/067114 col or s ol uti on 2% 1 . o
Note: WAS 14%, vi scous, desi red pH 5-6
P reparati on: Phase I i s pre-mixed. The sodium chl ori de which
has been pre- di ssol ved i n a small quanti ty o f water i s then
added. Whi l e conti nuousl y s t i r r i ng, the water i s gradual l y
i ncorporated and then the remai ni ng i ngredi ents are added.
Formula No. T64-45
Acidic Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon A
Comperlan KD
Euperlan PK 771
Sodium chl ori de
C i t r i c aci d
Water
Note: WAS 18%, vi scous, desi red pH 4-5
Formula No. T64-47
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon N40
Comperlan KD
Euperlan PK 776
Water
Water
I 1 Omadine MDS
I11 Sodium chl ori de
Note: WAS 16%, vi scous, desi red pH 6-7, l i ght- protected
P reparati on: Omadine MDS i s mixed t o a paste wi th water
di ssol ved i n the pre-mixed phase I whi l e s t i r r i ng. Then
remai ni ng i ngredi ents are added.
Formula No. T64-48
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model Formulae
%w/w
40.00
3. 00
3.00
4.00
0. 15
49.85
%w/w
45.0
2. 5
3. 0
1 . o
2.0
2.0
44.5
packaging
and
the
472 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein, Slightly Acidic
%w/w
I Hydagen P 2. 0
Texapon MLS 2. 0
Water 70C 20.0
I 1 Texapon EVR 30.0
Texapon MLS 8. 0
C i t r i c aci d 10% s ol uti on 1. 3
Water 35. 7
Sodium chl ori de 1 . o
Note: WAS 1446, s l i ght l y aci di c, vi scous
P reparati on: Phase I i s homogeneously mixed a t 60-70C and cool ed
agai n before the remai ni ng i ngredi ents are added one af ter
another.
Formula No. T64-37
Shampoo with Azulene, Pearly
Texapon SG
Texapon MLS
Comperlan KD
Azul ene
Water
Note: WAS 20%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T64-38
Pearly Gloss Shampoo, Softening
Texapon EVR
Texapon I E S
P ol yquart H81
Water
Note: WAS 2046, AS 2346, vi scous
Formula No. T64-40
Special Shampoo for Dry Hair
Texapon N25/N40
Texapon SG
Comperlan KD
Comperlan KM
S ol ul an 98
Vi tami n F, water- sol ubl e CLR
Water
Note: WAS 13%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-41
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
40.0
20.0
4.0
0. 1
35. 9
%w/w
40.0
10. 0
5. 0
45.0
%w/w
10. 0
20.0
3.0
5 . 0
1 . o
0 . 5
60. 5
Shampoos 473
Professional Formula
Conditioning Shampoo
I nqredi ents:
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (30%)
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate (30%)
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne L-7)
Quaterni um-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3272)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8851)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 88183)
Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l EM-90)
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance
Col or
P reservati ve
PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Anti 1 171)
Ammonium Chl ori de (25% s ol uti on) As needed
%w/w
0. 1
45.6
35.0
10. 0
7.0
0. 3
0. 3
0. 3
0. 4
t o pH 6. 5
Q. S .
Q . S .
Q . S .
1 . o
t o adj us t vi s cos i ty
Procedure:
1 . Di ssol ve the Tetrasodium EDTA i n the water.
2. Add i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng between addi ti ons . Avoi d
3. Sl owl y mix i n the PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate.
4. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the 25% s ol uti on o f Ammonium Chl ori de
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formula
a i r entrapment.
Tear Free 2:1 Shampoo
Mackam 2C
Mackol 70NS
Li posorb P-20
Mackernium 007
Mackal ene 426
Mackester EGDS
Paragon preservati ve
C i t r i c Aci d
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei qht ,%
27. 0
15. 0
4.0
2. 5
2. 0
1. 6
q. s
q s t o pH 6. 5- 7. 0
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add Mackernium 007 t o water and bl end u n t i l compl etel y di s -
persed.
2. Add Mackam 2C, Li posorb P-20 and bl end u n t i l cl ear.
3. Add Mackalene 426 and heat t o 70C.
4. When the Mackalene 426 i s compl etel y di spersed, sl owl y add
5. Blend u n t i l product i s homogeneous.
6. Add Mackester EGDS and bl end u n t i l compl etel y di spersed.
7. Cool t o 50C and adj us t pH t o 6.5-7.0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
8. Add Paragen preservati ve, dye and fragrance. 9. Cool and f i l l
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Mackol 70NS.
474 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Re-Nu Shampoo for Thinning Hair
A. Dei oni zed Water
Monamid 150-LW (Lauramide DEA)
Stepanol WAT (TEA Lauryl S ul f ate)
8. Sipon ES-2 (Sodium Laureth S ul f ate)
Aqua-Tein C (Col l agen Amino Aci ds and Acetamide MEA
Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl Betai ne)
D i sodi um EDTA
and P ropylene Gl ycol )
C. Fragrance, P reservati ve
Procedure:
1. Mix and heat Phase A u n t i l di ssol ved.
2. Add Phase B t o Phase A wi th mi xi ng.
3. Mix and cool t o 50C. Add Phase C .
C i t r i c Aci d, t o pH 5 . 5
sbw/w
49.70
4.00
15.00
25.00
2. 00
4.00
0.30
**Total surfactant s ol i ds can be reduced i f desi red, and Sod
Chl ori de added t o mai ntai n vi s cos i ty.
P ropert i es :
bl end o f gentl e cl eansi ng agents which cl ean thi nni ng hai r
A r i c h, mi l d, vi scous shampoo wi th a s peci al l y formul ated
gentl y, but ef f ec ti vel y whi l e adding body and manageabi l i ty.
Cleans wi thout damaging del i cate or thi nni ng hai r . Aqua-Tein
i s a moi sture- bi ndi ng complex of amino aci ds and Acetamide MEA
which mai ntai n the moi sture content o f the hai r . Moi st hai r
has better tens i l e strength and appears t o have an i ncreased
volume and f ul l nes s . Aqua-Tein C i s al s o an ef f ec ti ve anti -
i r r i t a n t and adds t o the gentl eness o f the formul a.
S.
S.
um
C
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc.: Formula #HS-203
Neutralizer Shampoo
Mackanate OM
Mackol 70NS
Mackami ne CAO
Mackami ne WGO
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
P rocedure:
1. Add s urf actants t o water and heat t o 50C.
2. Blend u n t i l cl ear.
3 . Adj ust pH t o 5. 0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
4. Add dye, preservati ve, fragrance and cool .
SOURCE: Mcl ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Wei aht ,%
30. 0
10.0
6.0
2.0
q . s .
100.0
Shampoos 475
Shampoo
- A Deionized Water 56. 18%
Phoenate SLES-70 (Sodium Laureth S ul f ate) 23.00
Phoenami d LD (Laurami de DEA) 3. 50
P hoenateric CAB (Cocamidopropyl Betai ne) 2. 00
Pecosi 1 SSP (Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n/ 2. 00
C i t r i c Aci d (loo/, Aq. ) 2. 54
P ropylparaben 0. 10
DCP Copol ymer)
- 8 Gl yceri n 4. 00
Methylparaben 0. 30
- C Bl ue #I (0.005% Aq. ) 0. 05
Y el l ow #5 ( 1. 0% Aq. ) 0. 03
D Deionized Water 5. 00
Sodium Chl ori de 0. 70
P otassi um Sorbate 0. 10
Panthenol 0. 50
Add Phoenate SLES-70 t o phase Lj water w i t h adequate
Procedure:
agi tati on. When the s ol uti on i s cl ear, add the remaining phase
- A i tems i n order. Combine phase i tems and heat and agi tate
t o s ol ubi l i z e the parabens. When the parabens are i n s ol uti on,
add phase B t o phase A wi th adequate agi tati on. Add phase
- C t o wi th sweep agi tati on. Combine phase Q i tems under pro-
pel l er agi tati on. When a cl ear s ol uti on i s obtai ned, add phase D
t o ABC under sweep agi tati on. Sweep liBc_z, u n t i l uni form.
Formula 14-62-8
Conditioning Shampoo
- A Deionized Water 57.80%
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (Phoenate SLES-70) 20 * 00
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne 1 .60
Cocami dopropyl di methyl ami ne Di methi cone Copol yo1 2. 00
S i l i cone Quaternium-9 (P ecosi l CAP-1240)
Decyl P olyglucose 8. 00
Lauramide DEA (Phoenamid LD) 2. 00
PEG-3 Di s tearate (Phoenate 3DSA) 2. 40
Sodium Chl ori de 0. 80
PEG-1 20 Methyl G1 ucose D i o l eate 2. 40
Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate (P ecosi l PS-100) 2. 00
- 8 P ropylene G1 ycol (and) Di azo1 i di nyl Urea (and) 1 . oo
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
Col or q. s .
Fragrance q. s .
10% Aqueous C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on adj us t t o pH 5.0-6.0
Combine Phase Lj i tems, agi tate and heat t o 70C. When Phase
P rocedure:
- A i s uni form, begi n cool i ng under sl ow sweep agi tati on t o 45C.
Add Phase under conti nued sl ow sweep agi tati on. When i s
uni form, adj us t pH t o 5.0-6.0
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical Co I , I nc. : Suggested Formulations
476 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo, Aerosol-Packed
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KO
Water
Note: WAS 17%
F i l l i n g : 92 parts shampoo
Formula No. T71-01
8 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Shampoo Mousse
Texapon N40
Texapon MLS
Dehyton K
Water
Note: WAS 19%
F i l l i ng: 92 parts shampoo
Formula No. T71-02
8 parts propel l ant, F ri gen 12
Shampoo in Aerosol Form
Texapon K14S speci a1
Comperlan LS
Water
Note: WAS 17%
F i l l i n g : 92 parts shampoo
Formula No. T71-03
8 parts propel l ant, F ri gen 12
Baby Shampoo in Aerosol Form
Texapon ASV
Dehyton G
Water
Note: WAS 16%
F i l l i n g : 92 parts shampoo
Formula No. T71-04
8 parts propel l ant, F ri gen 12
%w/w
50. 0
3.0
47.0
40. 0
20.0
5. 0
35.0
50. 0
3. 0
47.0
%w/w
5 0 . 0
5. 0
45.0
Shampoo in Powder Form, Surfactant-Free
36w/w
Dehydazol A400P 5. 0
Wheat s tarch 39.0
Magnesi um carbonate 12. 5
Tal c 12. 5
Borax 5. 0
Sodium chl ori de 2 5 . 0
Dry perfume 1 . o
Note: no WAS, powder
Formula No. T81-01
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 477
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
Texapon N25/N40
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 11%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-01
%w/w
40.0
4 . 0
56.0
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
%w/w
I Sodium chl ori de 4. 5
Water 6. 5
I 1 Texapon N70 14.0
I 1 1 Water 75.0
Note: WAS IO%, medium vi scous
P reparati on: The sodium chl ori de must be di ssol ved i n the
smal l est possi bl e amount of water i n order t o obtai n a satur-
ated s al i ne s ol uti on. The s ol uti on i s then s t i r r e d i n t o the
undi l uted Texapon N70. The r es t o f the water i s then gradual l y
added. F i nal l y, the preservati ve i s added.
Formula No. T61-03
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
Texapon MLS
Comperlan F
Water
Note: WAS 20%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-05
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
Texapon I E S
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 20%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-06
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
Texapon NA
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T61-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
96w/w
5 0 . 0
3.5
46. 5
%w/w
40.0
4. 0
56.0
%w/w
50.0
3. 0
0. 5
46.5
478 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo, Clear, Liquid
Texapon NT
Comperlan LS
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-08
Shampoo, with Hair-Care Effect
Texapon N25/N40
Dehyton AB 30
P ol yquart H81
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: AS 15%, WAS 13%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T61-10
Shampoo for Daily Use
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KD
P ol yquart H81
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: AS 11%, WAS 9%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-12
Texapon K
Comperl an
Sodium ch
Water
Note : WAS
4s spec.
LS
i de 0
1
Formula No.
36, vi scous
T61-14
Shampoo for Daily Use
%w/w
40.0
3.0
1.0
56.0
%w/w
40.0
5.0
5. 0
1. 5
48.5
%w/w
25.0
2. 0
3. 0
3.0
67.0
%w/w
30.0
2.0
3. 0
65.0
Anti-dandruff Shampoo
%w/w
I Texapon N25/N40 45.0
Comperlan KD 2.5
Water 10. 0
I 1 Omadine MDS 1 .o
Water 2.0
I 1 1 Sodium chl ori de 2.0
Water 37. 5
Note: WAS 15%, pH 6-7, l i ght- protected packaging
P reparati on: Texapon N25 and Comperlan KD are pre-mixed. P art
of the water i s then added. Omadine MDS i s mixed wi th a small
quanti ty of water t o a paste, then s t i r r ed i nt o above mi xture.
The remaining i ngredi ents are then added.
Formula No. T61-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 479
Shampoo in Cream Form
Texapon CS paste
Comperlan KM
Note: WAS 57%, paste
Formula No. T65-01
"/,w/w
95. 0
5. 0
Shampoo in Cream Form
%w/w
I Texapon LS hi ghl y conc. needles 15.0
S i egert S teari n L2 SM 10.0
Comperl an 100 2. 0
Dehydol 100 DE 0 1 . o
Tri ethanol ami ne 5. 0
Sodium chl ori de 2. 0
Water 65. 0
Note: WAS 30%, paste
P reparati on: Phase I i s s t i r r ed a t approx. 80C unt i l a homogen-
eous mi xture i s obtai ned. I t i s then cool ed whi l e s t i r r i n g
conti nuousl y.
Formula No. L65-03
Shampoo in Cream Form
I Texapon Z hi ghl y conc. needles
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
%w/w
15.0
10. 0
Comperl an t 00 2. 0
Dehydol 100 DE 0 0. 5
T r i ethanol ami ne 5. 0
Sodium chl or i de 2. 0
Water 65.5
Note: WAS 30%, paste
P reparati on: Phase I i s s t i r r ed a t approx. 80C unt i l a homogen-
eous mi xture i s obtai ned. I t i s then cool ed whi l e s t i r r i n g
conti nuos l y.
Formula No. T65-04
Cream Shampoo with Egg ~
Texapon CS paste
Comperlan KM
Egg yol k, l i qui d, techn.
Water
Note: WAS 69%, paste
Formula NO. T65-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model F ormul ae
%w/w
93. 5
5. 0
0. 5
1 . o
480 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo Plus Conditioner
(Formula 90-0601)
Thi s one step shampoo and condi ti oner demonstrates r i c h
l atheri ng properti es whi l e i t condi ti ons the hai r . Comprised
o f two pr otei n substanti ve condi ti oni ng agents, t h i s unique
formula detangl es snarl ed hai r and s i gni f i c antl y reduces comb
drag.
Step A: % By Weight
Water 26.65
J aguar C-14s 0. 30
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on Q.S. t o pH 4.0-4.5
Heat water t o 50C. Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y
di sperse J aguar C-14s i n water. Adj ust pH t o 4.0-4.5 wi th
C i t r i c Aci d s ol uti on as needed. Wi th pH adjustment, the system
w i l l thi cken.
Step B :
Rhodapex ESY 30.00
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on Q. S. t o pH 5.7-6.3
Ammonium Xylene S ul fonate (40% Aq.) 2.00
Sl owl y bl end Rhodapex ESY and AXS-40 i nt o heated water system.
Mix unt i l compl etel y uni form. Adj ust f ormul ati on t o pH 5.7-6.3
wi th C i t r i c Aci d s ol uti on as needed. Wi th smooth agi tati on,
conti nue t o heat system t o 70-75C.
Step C:
Vari s of t TC-90 (Sherex) 0.50
Cetyl Al cohol NF 0.40
S tearyl A1 coho1 0.40
A1 kamul s EGDS 2.00
I n a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine Step C i ngredi ents . Heat
Step C i ngredi ents (do not scorch) u n t i l cl ear and molten. Wi th
rapi d but smooth agi tati on, s l owl y bl end molten Step C phase i nt o
70-75C water phase. Mix unt i l compl etel y uni form.
Step D:
A1 kami de C-212
Rhodapon L-22HNC
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on
Sl owl y bl end Alkamide C-212 i nt o
compl etel y uni form. Sl owl y bl end
Once uni form, adj us t f ormul ati on
1.70
36.00
Q.S. t o pH 5.7-6.3
heated system and mix u n t i l
Rhodapon L-22HNC i nt o system.
DH t o 5.7-6.3 wi th C i t r i c Aci d
as needed. Wi th smooth agi tati on, ' cool system t o 40-45C.
Step E:
Kathon CG (Rohm and Haas) 0.05
Fragrance and Dye Q. S.
Sl owl y bl end Kathon CG and compati bl e Fragrance and Dye i nt o
system. Mi x unt i l uni form. Sodium Chl ori de may be added i n trace
concentrati ons (0.05-0.10%) t o i ncrease vi s cos i ty i f needed.
Ammonium Xylene S ul fonate may be added t o decrease vi s cos i ty
i f needed.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance @ 25C: Opaque/Pearlescent L i qui d
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C (No. 4 Spi ndl e @ 10 RPM):3,000-5,000 cps
pH : 5.7-6.3
SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula 90-0601
Shampoos 481
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Oehyton AB 30
Eumulgin 0 5
Water
Note: WAS 21%, vi scous
Formula No. T61-31
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Texapon N25/N40
Dehyton K
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 12%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T61-33
Protein-Shampoo
Texapon MLS
Comperlan OD
Hydagen P
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-36
Shampoo for Structurally Damaged Hair
Texapon MLS
Oehyton AB 30
Comperlan F
Aminodermin R chter
Water
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. T61- 38
Multivitamin-Shampoo
Texapon N25
Dehyton AB 30
Comperlan LS
Sol uvi t - R i chter
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%
Formula No . T61-39
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
96w/w
30.0
15. 0
55. 0
"/ow/w
30.0
5. 0
2.0
2. 0
61 .O
- W
35. 0
3. 0
1.0
0. 3
60. 7
" W
45.0
3.0
2. 0
0.1
49. 9
40. 0
6. 0
3. 0
3. 0
0. 3
47. 7
482 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Texapon MLS
Dehyton G
Comperlan LS
Water
Note: Viscous shampoo WAS 19%
Formula No. T61-40
Shampoo Clear, Liquid
Texapon K14S speci a1
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-42
Shampoo Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S speci a1
Texapon SBN
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-45
Shampoo, Clear
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-46
Shampoo, Especially Skin Compatible
Texapon K14S 70 speci al
Texapon SBN
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-47
Shampoo, with Sulfosuccinate
Texapon N25
Texapon SB3
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%
Formula No. 161-48
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
45. 0
13.0
1 . o
41 . O
%w/w
50. 0
5. 5
44.5
%w/w
25. 0
25.0
3. 0
47.0
%w/w
20. 0
6. 0
74.0
%w/W
10.0
25. 0
3. 5
61 . 5
%w/w
3 5 . 0
10. 0
2.0
3. 0
50. 0
Shampoos 483
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Texapon EVR
Dehyton A0 30
Water
Note: WAS 20%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-17
Shampoo with Ampholyte
Texapon N25/N40
Dehyton K
Euperlan PK 771
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 12%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-19
Shampoo Concentrate, Pearly
Texapon 2 hi ghl y conc. needles
Comperlan KD
Cuti na AGS
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 65%, AS 70%, pasty consi stency
When used, the concentrate i s di l uted wi th water at a
1:l O. The r es ul t is a shampoo of medium vi s cos i ty.
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents shown i n the formul a are
together and mel ted a t approx. 75C
Formula No. T64-21
Herbal Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon EVR
Hexapl ant R i chter
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, medi um vi scous
Formula No. T64-22
Herbal Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon EVR
Texapon N25/N40
Hexapl ant Ri chter
Water
Note: WAS 11%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-23
SOURCE: Henk el KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
50.0
5. 0
45.0
&y! ! &
30. 0
5. 0
3. 0
1 . o
1. 0
60.0
W W
35.0
35.0
5. 0
2. 6
22. 4
r a t i o o f
mi xed
45. 0
3. 0
0. 3
51 . 7
YNvJ
20. 0
15.0
3 . 0
62.0
484 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo with Conditioning Effect
%w/w
Texapon N25 35.0
Lamepon S 10.0
Comperlan KD 5.0
Lamequat L 1.0
Nu t ri lan I 1.0
Viscontran MHPC 6000 0.4
Perfume 0.2
Water 47.4
Note: Medi um viscous. WAS 18%
Preparation: Viscontran MHPC i s i n i t i a l l y sw ollen i n w ater and
the remai ni ng i ngredi ents are stirred in i n the order show n
above.
Formula No. T61-57
Shampoo, Mild
%w/w
Texapon ASV 40.0
Dehy ton G-SF 5.0
Comperlan COD 2 . O
Sodium chlori de 3.5
Water 49.5
Note: Viscous, WAS 16%
Formula No. T61-58
Shampoo, Mild
%w/w
Texapon N25 43.0
Dehy ton G-SF 7.5
Sodium chlori de 1.5
Water 48.0
Note: Medi um viscous, WAS 15%
Formula No. T61-6
Shampoo, Mild
%W/W
Texapon N25 27.0
Dehy ton G-SF 6.0
Sodi um ch lori d e 2.2
Water 64.8
Note: Low viscous, WAS 10%
Formula No. T61-62
Shampoo, Mild
%W/W
Texapon N25 24.0
Dehy ton G-SF 8.0
Sodium ch lori de 1.5
Water 66.5
Note: Low viscous, WAS 10%
Formula No. T61-63
SOU R CE : Henk el KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 485
Shampoo with J ojoba Oil Substitute
I Comperlan KD
I 1 Texapon K 14s speci al
C eti ol 5600
Cuti na EGMS
Water
I 1 1 Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 21%
P reparati on:
Phase I: C eti ol 5600 i s worked i nt o Comperlan KD.
Phase 11: Cuti na EGMS i s mel ted wi th the Texapon, which has been
di l uted wi th some o f the water, a t 75C. It i s cool ed t o
approx. 40C, bei ng s t i r r e d conti nuousl y, and the remai ni ng
i ngredi ents and Phase I are added.
pH s etti ng t o 6. 5 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
Formula No. T64-70
%w/w
2. 5
0. 6
54.0
3.0
20. 0
2.0
17. 9
Conditioning Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25
Lamepon S
Lamesoft 156
Lamequat L
Sodium chl ori de
Perfume
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 16%
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents are mixed i n the order shown
wi th the excepti on o f Lamesoft 156, which i s added l as t.
Formula No. T64-71
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Comperl an KD
Monomuls 90-L 12
Lamesoft 156
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Medium vi scous. WAS 23%
%w/w
35.0
17.0
5. 0
5. 0
0. 7
0.3
3 7 . 0
above,
e
43.0
20. 0
1.5
1 . o
5. 0
0. 3
1 . o
28.2
P reparati on: Monomuls SO-L 12 i s di ssol ved i n Texapon N25 whi l e
heati ng. Lamepon S-TR, Comperlan KD, perfume nd water are
added. F i nal l y, the pearl y gl oss concentrate Lamesoft T156 i s
added and the vi s cos i ty i s regul ated wi th sodium chl ori de.
Formula No. T64-73
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
486 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon N25/N40
Cuti na AGS
%w/w
50. 0
3. 0
Water 20.0
I 1 Sodium chl ori de 3. 0
Water 24.0
Note: WAS 14%, AS 17%, medium vi scous
P reparati on: Cuti na AGS i s mel ted a t approx. 75C i n the Texapon
which has been di l uted wi th par t o f the water. Whi l st s t i r r i ng,
it i s cool ed t o approx. 40C and the remai ni ng i ngredi ents are
added.
Formula No. T64-06
Texapon Z or Texapon V h
Texapon LS hi ghl y conc.
Comperlan KD
Cuti na AGS
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 12%
Shampoo, Pearly
ghl y conc. needles or
need1 es
%w/w
10.0
3. 0
2.0
1 . o
84.0
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents shown i n the formul a are mixed
together and mel ted at approx. 75C.
Formula No. T64-08
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25/N40
Euperlan PK 771
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 11%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-09
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KD
Euperlan PK 771
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-10
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
35. 0
3. 0
3. 5
58.5
%w/w
5 0 . 0
2.0
2. 5
2.0
43.5
Shampoos 487
Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon 2 hi ghl y conc. needles
Comperlan KD
Water
I 1 Sodium chl ori de
Water
Euperlan PK771
Note: WAS 10-13%, medium vi scous
P reparati on: Phase I i s mixed a t approx. 60C t o form
s ol uti on. I t i s s t i r r e d whi l e cool i ng. The remai ni ng
i ents are added a t approx. 40C.
Formula No. T64-11
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25/N40
Euperl an PK776
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T64-13
Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon 2 hi ghl y conc. needles
Comperlan KD
Water
I 1 Sodium chl ori de
Water
Euperlan PK 776
Note: WAS 13%, vi scous
P reparati on: Phase I i s mixed a t approx. 60C t o form
s ol uti on. I t i s s ti r r ed whi l e cool i ng. The remai ni ng
i ents are added a t approx. 40C.
Formula No. T64-14
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25/N40
Euperl an PK789
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T64-15
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
o/aw/w
10. 0
3. 0
70.0
1 . o
13. 5
2. 5
a cl ear
i ngred-
%w/w
5 0 . 0
2. 5
2.0
2.0
43. 5
%w/w
10. 0
3. 0
70. 0
1 . o
13. 5
2.5
a cl ear
i ngred-
%w/w
50. 0
2. 5
2. 0
2. 0
43.5
488 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo, Cloudy
I Texapon N40
Comperlan KD
I 1 Texapon SBN
Sodium chl ori de
Cuti na HR
Water
%w/w
15. 0
1 . o
30.0
2. 0
3. 0
49.0
Note: WAS 14%, AS l6%, vi scous
P reparati on: Mi x Texapon N40 wi th Comperlan KD, add phase 11,
i n which Cuti na HR has al ready been mel ted a t 9OC and cool ed
under conti nuous s t i r r i ng, and preserve a t a temperature below
40C.
Formula No. T63-01
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Cloudy
Texapon N40
%w/w
43. 0
Lamepon UD 19. 0
Nutr i l an L 4. 5
Monomuls 90-L 12 2. 0
Glucamate DOE-120 2. 0
Veegum HV, 2% pres wel l i ng 27. 2
Z i nc- pryri on 48% susp. 2. 0
Perfume 0. 3
Note: Viscous, WAS 23%
P reparati on: Monomuls 90-L 12 and Glucamate DOE 120 are di ssol ved
i n Texapon N40 whi l e bei ng heated. The remaining i ngredi ents
are then added i n the order shown above. The zi nc- pryri on susp-
ension and the perfume are added when the temperature i s under
t40C.
Formula No. T63-03
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon SG
Comperlan KD
Water
Note: WAS 12%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-02
Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon SG
Texapon N25/N40
Comperlan KD
Water
Note: WAS 14%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T64-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
33.0
3. 5
63. 5
o/pw/w
20. 0
20. 0
4. 0
56. 0
Shampoos 489
Shampoo Plus Conditioner
Plus UV Protection
Formula 93-0401
Thi s one-step shampoo condi ti oner and UV protector demonstrates
ri ch- l atheri ng properti es , whi l e it condi ti ons and protects the
hai r . Comprised o f two protei n- substanti ve condi ti oni ng agents
and an ul t r avi o l et absorber, t h i s unique formul a detangl es
snarl ed hai r and s i gni f i c antl y reduces comb drag, whi l e protect-
i ng the hai r from the harsh ef f ects o f s unl i ght.
A. Component % BY Weiaht
Water 25.65
J aguar C-14s 0.30
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on Q.S. t o pH 4.0-4.5
Heat water t o 50C. Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y
di sperse J aguar C-14s i n water. Adj ust pH t o 4.0-4.5 wi th
c i t r i c aci d s ol uti on, as needed. Wi th pH adjustment, the system
w i l l thi cken.
B. Rhodapex ESY 30.0
Ammonium Xylene Sul fonate (40% Aq.) 2.0
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on Q.S. t o pH 5.7-6.3
Sl owl y bl end Rhodapex ESY and AXS-40 i n t o heated water system.
Mi x u n t i l compl etel y uni form. Adj ust f ormul ati on pH t o 5. 7- 6. 3
wi th c i t r i c aci d s ol uti on, as needed. With smooth agi tati on,
conti nue t o heat system t o 70-75C.
C. Vari s of t TC-90 (Sherex) 0. 50
Cetyl Al cohol NF 0.40
S tearyl Al cohol 0.40
A1 kamul s EGDS 2.00
Syntase 62 1 .oo
I n a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine 'IC" i ngredi ents. Heat "C"
i ngredi ents (do not scorch) u n t i l cl ear and mol ten. Wi th rapi d
but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end mol ten "C" phase i nt o 70-75C
water phase. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form.
D. Alkamide C-212 1.70
Rhodapon L-22HNC 36.00
25% C i t r i c Aci d S ol uti on P .S. t o pH 5.7-6.3
Sl owl y bl end Alkamide C-212 i nt o heated system and mix u n t i l
compl etel y uni form. Sl owl y bl end Rhodapon L-22HNC i nt o system.
Once uni form, adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5. 7- 6. 3 wi th c i t r i c aci d,
as needed. Wi th smooth agi tati on, cool system t o 40-45C.
E. Kathon CG (Rohm and Haas) 0.05
Sl owl y bl end Kathon CG and compati bl e fragrance and dye i nt o
system. Mix u n t i l uni form. Sodium chl ori de may be added i n trace
concentrati ons (0.05-0.10%) t o i ncrease vi s cos i ty, i f needed.
Ammonium xvl ene sul fonate may be added t o decrease vi s cos i ty,
Fragrance and Dye Q.S.
i f needed.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance: Opaque, pear
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C (No. 4 Spi ndl e @ 10 rpm): 10
pH : 5.7-6.3
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es :
ascent 1 i qui d
000-15,000 cps
Formulas
490 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo Shower Bath Combination, Pearly
I Hydagen P
Texapon EVR
I 1 Texapon EVR
Dehyton AB 30
C eti ol HE
Water
Note: WAS 17%, vi scous
P reparati on: The products o f phase I are s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The remai ni ng i ngredi ents are
40C.
Formula No. T64-49
Lecithin Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon MLS
Euperlan PK 771
Dehyton K
Comperlan LS
L eci thi n CLR water di s pers i bl e
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. T64-51
Lecithin-Egg Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon MLS
Texapon EVR
Dehyton K
Leci t h i n CLR (water di s pers i bl e)
E gg, yol k, l i qui d, techn.
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. T64-52
Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon N25
Euperlan PK 771
Comperlan OD
Vi tami n F CLR (water sol ubl e)
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. T64-53
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
2. 0
10.0
35.0
3. 0
2. 0
48.0
a t 50-60C
added below
%w/w
40.0
3. 0
5.0
3. 0
2.0
47.0
w
20. 0
25. 0
5. 0
1 . o
1 . o
0.4
47.6
%w/w
40.0
1 .o
4.0
2. 0
0. 7
52.3
Shampoos 491
Shampoo, with Vitamin E
Comperlan OD
Vi tami n E/Covi to1 1100
Perfume
Texapon NSO
Dehyton AB 30
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%
Formula No. T61-73
Shampoo with Vitamin E
Comperlan KD
Vi tami n E/Covi to1 1100
%w/w
1.5
0. 5
0. 2
35.0
8. 0
1. 5
53.3
%w/w
1. 5
0. 5
Perfume 0. 2
Texapon NSO 35.0
Dehyton K 8. 0
Sodium chl ori de 2. 0
Water 52.8
Note: WAS 14%
P reparati on: The i ngredi ents are mixed together i n the order
shown above, wi thout heati ng.
Formula NO. T61-75
Shampoo with Ampholyte in Gel Form
Texapon N25/N40
Dehyton AB 30
Water
Note: WAS 20%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. T62-01
%w/w
5 0 . 0
20.0
3 0 . 0
Shampoo in Gel Form
I Texapon N70 15.0
Comperlan KD 3. 0
I 1 Sodium chl ori de 2. 4
Water 7. 0
111 Water 72.6
Note: WAS 13%, hi gh vi scous
P reparati on: Phase I i s prepared and mixed. Then the sodium
chl ori de, which has been pre- di ssol ved i n a smal l amount o f
water, i s added. The r es t o f the water i s gradual l y s ti r r ed i n
and the mi xture i s preserved.
Formula No. T62-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model Formulae
492 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shampoo with Sulfosuccinate
Texapon N25
Texapon SB 3
Comperlan KD
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%
Formula No. T61-49
Shampoo with J ojoba Oil Substitute
Texapon MLS
Texapon N25
Eumulgin RO 40
Comperlan KD
C eti ol 5600
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 20%, pH set t o 6.5 wi th c i t r i c aci d
Formula No. T61-51
Shampoo for Greasy Hair
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Comperlan KD
Lamepon PA-TR
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Viscous, WAS 21%
Formula No. T61-52
Shampoo for Sensitive Scalps
Texapon N25
Lamepon S-TR
Nutr i l an L
Perfume
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: Low vi scous, WAS 18%
Formula No. T61-53
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model For mul ae
%w/w
25.0
15.0
2.0
4. 5
53.5
%w/w
23.5
27.0
2.5
3.0
0. 3
2.0
41.7
%w/W
43.0
20.0
1. 5
5. 0
0. 3
2. 0
28.2
%w/w
30.0
30.0
6.0
0.3
1. 5
32.2
Shampoos 493
Silk Neutralizing Shampoo
%w/w
Bio-Terge AS-40 (Sodium C14-16 Ol ef i n S ul fonate) 22. 0
Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl Betai ne) 14. 0
Ammonyx CDO (Cocamidopropylami ne Oxi de) 5. 0
Dei oni zed Water 56.0
Cati oni c Col l agen P ol ypepti des 2. 5
Amino-Silk SF ( S i l k Amino Aci ds) 0. 5
P reservati ve, Fragrance q. s.
C i t r i c Aci d 9 , s . t o pH=4
Procedure:
pH t o 4 wi th c i tr i c aci d.
P roperti es :
a t the same ti me. Cati oni c Collagen P ol ypepti des, a cati oni c
hi gh mol ecul ar wei ght protei n, protects and smooths the hai r
s haf t t o counteract damage due t o harsh processi ng. Amino-Silk
SF adds shi ne and bounce t o the hai r .
Formula #HS-300
Mix a l l components together except the c i t r i c aci d. Adj ust
A mi l d, low pH shampoo which neutral i z es and re- condi ti ons
Enriched Protein & Honey Shampoo
%w/w
A. Dei oni zed Water 23.80
Col 1 agen) 1 . oo
Methylparaben 0.20
B. May-Tei n C (P otassi um Cocoyl Hydro1 yzed Col l agen) 30. 00
Standapol ES-2 (Sodium Laureth S ul f ate) 25.00
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 55 (Hydrol yzed Col l agen) 5.00
Lemon j u i ce 5. 00
Sodium Chl ori de 2. 50
Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxy E thyl Hydrolyzed
Honey 1 . oo
Monateri c CAB (Cocamidopropyl Betai ne) 5. 00
C . Dowi ci l 200 (Quaternium-15) 0. 20
P ol ysorbate 20 1 .oo
Fragrance 0. 30
Q. S . t o pH = 5. 5 wi th C i t r i c Aci d or Potassium Hydroxide
as needed.
P rocedure:
1. Mix and heat phase A unt i l homogeneous.
2. Add phase A t o phase B. Mi x.
3. Pre-mix phase C and add t o phase A/ B. Mi x.
P ropert i es :
i ents . Lemon j ui c e and quaterni zed protei n suppl y good manage-
a b i l i t y and an attr ac ti ve sheen. May-Tein C and Quat-P ro S
provi de l ubr i c i t y and condi ti oni ng. The Hydrolyzed Col l agen
coats and protects the hai r as wel l as adding body.
Formula #HS-109
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
A vi scous, but mi l d shampoo. Enri ched w i t h natural i ngred-
494 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Softening Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon EVR
Texapon N25
Sodium chl ori de
Water
I 1 Cosmedia Guar C261
%w/w
25.0
25. 0
0. 8
0. 5
18. 7
Water 30. 0
Note: WAS 16%, vi scous
P reparati on: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i nt o hot water and
pre- swol l en. When col d i t i s s ti r r ed i nt o phase I .
Formula No. T64-55
Silken Sheen Shampoo, Softening
S WL W
I Texapon SG 60. 0
Comperlan KD 2. 5
Water 6. 7
I 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 0. 8
Water 30 I 0
Note: WAS 15%
P reparati on: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s ti r r ed i nt o hot water and
pre-swol l en. When col d i t i s s t i rred i nt o phase I .
Formula No. T64-57
Softening Shampoo, Pearly
I Texapon N40
Comperlan KD
Euperlan PK 789
Sodium chl ori de
Water
I 1 Cosmedia Guar C261
Water
Note: WAS 15%
P reparati on: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i nt o
pre- swol l en. When col d i t i s s t i r r e d i nt o phase
Formula No. T64-59
%! ! LW
40.0
2. 0
5. 0
2 . o
20.5
0. 5
30. 0
hot water and
1
Softening Shampoo, Pearly
Ob. W%W
I Texapon N40 50. 0
Comperlan KD 2. 0
Euperlan PK 776 4. 0
Sodium chl ori de 1. 2
Water 12. 0
I 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 0. 8
Water 30. 0
Note: WAS 17%
P reparati on: Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s ti r r ed i nt o hot water and
pre- swol l en. When col d i t i s s t i r r e d i nt o phase I .
Formula No. T64-60
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Shampoos 495
Vege-Clean Conditioning Shampoo
A . Bi oterge AS-40 (Sodium C16-18 Ol ef i n Sul fonate)
Monami d 150-LW (Laurami de DEA)
Dei oni zed Water
Supro-Tei n S (Sodi um Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n
Soy-Quat C (Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Soy-Tein NL (Hydrolyzed Soy P rotei n)
Kessco PEG 6000 DS
Sodium Chl ori de
(and) Sorbi to1 )
Soy P rotei n)
%w/w
40 . O O
3. 00
46.80
5. 00
1 . 50
1 . 50
1 . oo
1 . oo
B. Fragrance
P reservati ve
C i t r i c Aci d
0. 2
q. s
q. s. t o pH 6. 5
P rocedure:
cool t o 40C. Add Phase B.
P roperti es:
i ti oni ng shampoo an extr a boost. An ef f ec ti ve cl eanser, t h i s
formul a provi des a creamy, s tabl e foam. Condi ti oni ng and mi l d-
ness are provi ded by the Soy-Tein NL and Supro-Tein S . Supro-
Tei n S i s a foaming protei n which gentl y cl eans and i s biodegrad-
abl e. Soy-Quat C i s a cati oni c, quaterni zed soy pr otei n which
adds hi ghl i ghts t o the hai r and improves wet and dry combing.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : Formula #HS-201
Mi x and heat Phase A t o 60C. Mi x u n t i l homogenoeus. Mi x and
Vegetable-based s urf actants and quaternari es gi ve t h i s cond-
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate
Mackal ene 426
Mackanate DC-50
Mackester EGDS
Mackami de PKM
Mackernium 007
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs
High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo
We
28%)
t o
1 gkt,%
65. 0
6. 0
4. 0
1 . o
2. 0
2. 0
q. s .
100. 0
P rocedure:
1 . Combine the f i r s t f i v e components and heat t o 70C wi th conti n-
2. Di l ute the Mackernium 007 i n the remai ni ng water and sl owl y
3. Bl end u n t i l product i s homogeneous and cool t o 50C.
4. Add Paragon preservati ve, fragrance and dye.
5. Adj ust pH wi th c i t r i c aci d t o 5. 0- 6. 0 and cool .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
uous mi xi ng.
add t o the bl end.
496 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly
Texapon EVR
Sol uvi t Ri chter
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-25
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Arnica Tincture
Texapon N25/N40
Texapon EVR
C eti ol HE
Arni ca T i ncture
Water
Note: WAS 13%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-27
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg
Texapon EVR
E gg yol k, l i q u i d
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 16%, vi scous
Formula No. T64-28
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg
Texapon SG
Texapon N25/N40
E gg yol k, l i q u i d
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 14%, medium
Formula No. T64-29
%&&
45. 0
2.0
0. 4
52. 6
%w/w
20.0
20. 0
10.0
0. 5
49.5
%w/w
45.0
2.0
0. 3
52.7
=
40. 0
20.0
0. 7
1. 5
37.5
i scous
Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg
Texapon SG
Texapon I ES
E gg yol k, l i qui d, techn.
Sodium chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 21%, medium vi scous
Formula No. T64-30
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
=
40. 0
20.0
0. 7
1.5
37. 8
Shampoos 497
Wash N' Style FamiIy Shampoo
A .
8.
C .
C .
Monamid CMA (Cocamide MEA)
P roto-Lan 8*
%w/w
5. 00
0. 50
Ammoni um Lauryl Sul f ate 30. 00
Supro-Tein V (TEA-Cocoyl-Hydrolyzed Col l agen (and)
Sorbi to1 ) 10.00
Ceioni zed Water
Quat-Pro S (S tearyl tri moni um Hydroxyethyl
Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrolyzed Kerati n)
Methylparaben
Kathon CG
C i t r i c Aci d, t o pH=6.0
Fragrance
NaCl (as needed f o r des i red vi s cos i ty)
Hydrolyzed Col l agen)
47. 90
1 . oo
5. 00
0. 20
0.10
q . s .
q . s .
q . s .
*( L eci thi n (and) Butyl S tearate (and) Cocoyl Hydrolyzed
Col l agen (and) Ol eoyl Sarcosi ne (and) Sesame O i l (and)
Lanol i n Al cohol )
Procedure:
1 . Heat Monamid unt i l mel ted. Add the P roto-Lan 8 and mi x.
2. Warm phase B t o 65C. Add phase A t o phase B. Mi x.
3. Warm phase C t o 60C. Add phase A/B t o C . Mi x.
4 . Adj ust pH and add fragrance. Mi x.
P roperti es :
of - the- art hai r repai r and condi ti oni ng i ngredi ents . Achieves
and mai ntai ns optimum hai r beauty f o r normal, o i l y, and dry
hai r and s cal p. P ar ti cul ar l y benef i ci al f o r bleached, permed,
over-processed hai r, provi di ng body, sheen, s of t f eel and adding
t o tens i l e s trength.
SOURCE: Maybrook I nc . : F ormul ati on #HS-110
I deal f ami l y shampoo. Based on ef f i c i ent cl eansers and s tate-
498 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Germ Oil & Honey Shampoo
(Formula 86-0106)
Rhodapex NA 61
Mi ratai ne BET-C 30
A1 kami de DC-212/S
Honey
Wheat Germ O i l
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve
Sodium Chl ori de
Water
Q . S .
% by Wei Qht
10.0
3.5
1. 5
0.025
0.025
to pH 6-6.5
Q.S.
1 .5-2.5
83.95
Bl endi na Procedure:
1. Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel ,
2. Wi th rapi d but smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Rhodapex
NA 61 and Mi ratai ne BET-C 30. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form.
3. I n a separate contai ner, di sperse honey and wheat germ o i l
i n Alkamide DC-212/S and mix u n t i l uni form. With smooth
agi tati on, sl owl y add t hi s bl end t o shampoo system. Mix
u n t i l shampoo i s compl etel y cl ear and uni form.
4. Adj ust pH of system t o 6.0-6.5 wi th c i t r i c aci d, as needed.
5. Add compati bl e fragrance, dye and preservati ve.
6. Adj ust shampoo vi s cos i ty t o 1,000-1,500 cps wi th i ncremental
addi ti ons o f sodium chl ori de, as needed.
CTFA I denti f i c ati on:
Water, Sodium Laureth S ul fate, Sodium Chl ori de, Cocamide DEA,
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne, Wheat Germ O i 1, Honey, C i t r i c Aci d,
P reservati ve, Fragrance, Dye.
Rhodapon SB 8208s
Mi rasheen 202
C i t r i c Aci d
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
Sodium Chl ori de
Water
Pearlescent Cream Shampoo
(Formula 83-0902M)
% BY Weight
33.0
10.0
Q.S. t o pH
Q . S .
1.5-2.5
55.0
5-6
Bl endi na P rocedure:
bl end i n Rhodapon SB 8208s and Mirasheen 202. Mix u n t i l comp-
l et el y uni form. Adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5-6 wi th c i t r i c aci d
as needed and then add compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and Pres-
ervati ve. Adj ust formul ati on vi s cos i ty t o 2,000-4,000 cps wi th
the j udi ci ous addi ti on of Sodium Chl ori de as needed.
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vesse . Wi th smooth agi tati on, s owly
Tvpi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance @ 25C: Opaque/Pearlescent L i qui d
pH : 5-6
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C: 2,000-4,000 CPS
% Non Vol ati l es : 15-17
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Water, Sodium Lauryl S ul fate, Gl ycol
Stearate, Sodium Chl ori de, Lauramide DEA, Cocamidopropyl Betai ne,
Gl yceri ne, Fragrance, P reservati ve, C i t r i c Aci d, Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Shampoos 499
Wig Shampoo
Texapon MLS
Dehyton AB30
Comperlan OD
Water
Note: WAS 14%, vi scous
Formula No. T68-01
Wig Shampoo, Cationic
Dehyton AB30
Eumulgin C4
Dehyquart LT
Comperlan KD
Water
Note: WAS 31%, low vi scous
Formula No. T68-02
Wig Shampoo, Cationic
Dehydol 1OODEO
Dehyquart A
Eumulgin 0 10
Water
Note: WAS 34%, low vi scous
Formula No. T68-03
Wig Shampoo
Texapon N25
Comperlan KD
Nutri l an L
Perfume
Sodium Chl ori de
Water
Note: WAS 15%, vi scous
Formula No. T68-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
30.0
5. 0
3. 0
62. 0
%w/w
40.0
15.0
5. 0
2. 0
38.0
%w/w
25. 0
15.0
5 . 0
5 5 . 0
%w/w
5 5 . 0
1. 8
5. 0
0. 3
1. 5
36.4
500 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo
Thick, s tabl e shampoo havi ng good cl eani ng and condi ti oni ng
properti es f o r the hai r .
I nqredi ent: Wei qht% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 34.10 Di l uent
Ammonium Lauryl S ul f ate (28%) ( 1 ) 34.00 S urfactant
Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate (27%) (2) 9. 25 S urfactant
P art B:
Carbopol 1382 (3)
Cocamide DEA ( 4 )
P art C:
Dimethicone (100,000 cs) ( 5)
Olealkonium Chl ori de (6)
0.75 Suspension
3.50 Foam
Stabi 1 i zer
Stabi 1 i zer
1 .OO Lubri cant
0. 50 Condi ti oner
P art D:
Deionized Water 15.00 Di l uent
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 10 Chelant
DMDM Hydantoin (7) 0.40 P reservati ve
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chl ori de (8) 0.20 Condi ti oner
NaOH (10%) 1 ,OO Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P art E :
Fragrance ( 9 ) 0. 20
( 1 ) Standapol A (Henkel)
(2) Standapol EA-3 (Henkel)
(3) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(4) Standamid KD (Henkel)
(5) 200 F l ui d (Dow Corning)
(6) M-Quat JO 50 (PPG-Mazer)
(7) Glydant (Lonza)
(8) N-Hance (Aqualon)
(9) Shampoo Fragrance A62120/794457 (Haarman & Reimer)
P reparati on P rocedure:
1 . Combine P art A i ngredi ents, s l owl y mix, heat t o 50C.
2. Separatel y heat Cocamide DEA t o 50, sl owl y mix i n Carbopol,
formi ng a paste, add t o P art A wi th moderate speed, mi xi ng
30 minutes.
3. Separatel y combine P art C i ngredi ents , heat t o 50C, s l owl y
mix t o combine wi th P arts A and B wi th moderate speed mi xi ng.
4. Separatel y add guar i nt o f i r s t three i ngredi ents of P art D,
when di spersed add NaOH, combine wi th P arts A, 8 , and C,
wi th sl ow agi tati on f o r 20 minutes u n t i l 40C.
5. Add P art E and mix slow agi tati on f o r 20 mi nutes.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula C-0039
Shampoos 501
2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo
A s ynergi s ti c mi xture o f Veegum HS Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
and hydroxypropyl guar thi ckens t h i s shampoo t o mai ntai n the mica
and ti tani um di oxi de i n suspension. Vanseal CS, renowned f o r i t s
mi l dness t o the s ki n and eyes, enhances the qual i ty and quanti ty
o f l ather produced by t h i s formul a. It al s o acts as a condi ti on-
i ng agent, augmenting the condi ti oni ng ef f ec t o f stearal koni um
chl ori de.
I nqredi ent : % by Weiqht*
A: Veegum HS Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate 1. 30
Hydroxypropyl Guar** 1. 30
Dei oni zed Water 60.35
B: C i t r i c Aci d
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate
Vanseal CS Cocoyl Sarcosi ne
C : Stearal koni um Chl ori de, 25%
D: Mica (and) Ti tani um Di oxi de***
Sodium Hydroxide S ol uti on t o pH 6.0
P reservati ve, Dye, Fragrance
*As Received Basi s
***Timeron Super Copper
**J aguar HP-60
0.05
30.00
3. 00
3.00
1 . oo
q . s .
q. s.
Mi xi ng P rocedure:
the water whi l e s t i r r i n g wi th a propel l er mi xer a t 1800 rpm.
Mi x 1 hour. Add the hydroxypropyl guar and mix 3 mi nutes.
Deaerate. Slow the mi xer t o avoi d a i r entrapment and foam gener-
ati on. Add the par t B i ngredi ents i n the order shown, mi xi ng
each u n t i l smooth and uni form. Heat par t C t o 50C and add sl owl y
t o A and B. Cool t o 30C or l es s and add par t D i ngredi ents i n
the order shown, mi xi ng each u n t i l smooth and uni form.
Formula P roperti es:
Vi s cos i ty: 10,000-15,000 cps ( Brookf i el d Model LVT at 60 RPM)
pH: 5 . 8 t o 6. 2
Appearance: Smooth, uni form, pourabl e l oti on
SOURCE: R. T. Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Formula No . 454
Heat the water i n part A t o 50C. Add the Veegum HS sl owl y t o
Section X
Shaving Products
502
Shaving Products 503
After Shave Balm
I ngredi ent: Wei aht%
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 90.00
Gl yceri n 3.00
Dimethicone Copolyol (1) 1 .oo
P ol ysorbate 80 (2)
A1 1 antoi n
P art 9:
Cyclomethicone (3)
Decyl Ol eate ( 4 )
Pemulen TR-1
P art C:
Tri ethano
0.10
0.10
4.00
0.50
0.25
amine, 99% 0.25
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) D i azo1 i d i nyl Urea
(and) Methyl Paraben (and) P ropyl
Paraben (6) 0.80
Fragrance q . s
(1) Dow Corning 190 S urfactant (Dow Corning)
( 2 ) Tween 80 (IC1 Americas)
Funct i on
Di 1 uent
Humectant
Humectant/
Lubr i cant
S urfactant
S ki n Condi ti oner
Lubri cant
Emol 1 i ent
E mul s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservati ve
i 3 j Dow Corning 245 F l ui d (Dow Corning)
( 4 ) Ceraphyl 140 (Van Oyk)
( 5) CTFA Acrylates/ClO-C30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer
( BFGoodr i ch )
( 6) Germaben I1 (Sutton Labs)
P reparati on Procedure:
1) Combine P art A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
2) Combine P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Mi x t o break-
up any s of t lumps o f Pemulen.
3) With moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mi x for 15-30
minutes,
4) Add P art C . As emulsion thi ckens, i ncrease r ate o f mi xi ng t o
produce a smooth, opaque product.
5) Mi x P art D i ngredi ents i nt o emulsion.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO003
504 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Shave Balm
Smooth appl i cati on and non- sti ngi ng emol l i ency are features
o f t h i s transl ucent gel formul ati on.
I ngredi ent (CTFA) :
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Gl yceri n
D i methi cone Copolyol (1 )
P ol ysorbate 80 ( 2)
Al l antoi n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
Cyclomethicone ( 3)
Fragrance, Novi l l e #28819
Decyl Ol eate (4)
Pemulen TR- 1 (5)
Carbopol 954 ( 6)
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) Di azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben ( 7)
( 1) 193 S urfactant (Dow Corning)
Wei aht%
88.65
3.00
0. 75
0. 15
0.10
0. 10
4. 00
0. 75
0 . 5 0
0, 20
0. 40
0. 60
0. 80
F uncti on
D i 1 uent
Humectant
Humectant/
Lubr i cant
P ar ti c l e S i ze
Reduction
S ki n Condi ti oner
Chel a t i ng Agent
Lubri cant
Emol 1 i ent
E mul s i f i er
Thickener
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservati ve
( 2) P rotasorb 0-20 (Protemeen Chemicals) , Tween 80 ( I C I )
( 3) 345 F l ui d (Dow Corni ng)
(4) Ceraphyl 140 (Van Dyk)
(5) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BF Goodrich)
( 6) Carbomer (BF Goodrich)
( 7) Germaben I 1 (S utton Labs)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Mix u n t i l homogeneous.
2 . I n a separate vessel , bl end part B i ngredi ents. Pemulen
and Carbopol shoul d be s l ur r i ed i n t hi s phase. Di srupt
any s of t lumps o f these res i ns .
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mi x f or
10-15 minutes and then add P art C . Mi x vi gorousl y t o
produce a smooth, gl ossy product.
4 . Mix P art D i nt o emulsion.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO011
Shaving Products 505
After Shave Balm
Smooth appl i cati on and non- sti ngi ng emol l i ency are features
o f t h i s transl ucent gel formul ati on.
I naredi ent (CTFA)
P art A :
Deionized Water
Gl yceri n
Dimethicone Copolyol (1)
P ol ysorbate 80 ( 2)
A1 1 antoi n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art 8:
Cyclomethicone (3)
Fragrance, Novi l l e #28819
Decyl Ol eate (4)
Pemulen TR-1 (5)
Carbopol 5984 (6)
P art C :
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
P art D:
P ropyl ene G1 ycol
Urea (and) Methy
P ropylparaben ( 7
( 1) 193 S urfactan
( 2) P rotasorb 0-2
and) D i azo1 i di nyl
paraben (and)
Weight%
88.65
3.00
0. 75
0.15
0. 10
0. 10
4. 00
0. 75
0.50
0. 20
0.40
0.60
0 . 8 0
F uncti on
D i 1 uent
Humectant
Humectant/
L ubri cant
P ar ti c l e S i ze
Reduct i on
S ki n Condi ti oner
Chel ati ng Agent
Lubri cant
Emol 1 i ent
E mul s i f i er
Thickener
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservati ve
(Dow Corning)
(Protameen Chemicals), Tween 80 ( I C I )
(3) 345 F l ui d (Dow Corning)
( 4) Ceraphyl 140 (Van Dyk)
(5) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(6) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
( 7 ) Germaben I 1 (S utton Labs)
P reparati on:
1 , Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which wi 11 contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
2. I n a separate vessel , bl end P art B i ngredi ents. Pemulen and
Carbopol should be s l ur r i ed i n t hi s phase. Di srupt any s of t
lumps o f these res i ns .
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix f o r 10-15
minutes and then add P art C . M i x vi gorousl y t o produce a
smooth, gl ossy product.
4 . Mix P art D i nt o emulsion.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO032
506 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Shave Balm
Smooth appl i cati on and non- sti ngi ng emol l i ency are features
o f t h i s transl ucent gel formul ati on.
I ngredi ent (CTF A):
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
G1 yceri n
Dimethicone Copolyol (1)
P ol ysorbate 80 ( 2 )
A1 1 antoi n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
Cyclomethicone ( 3)
Fragrance (8)
Decyl Ol eate (4)
Pemulen TR-1 (5)
Carbopol 5984 ( 6)
P art C:
Tr i ethanol ami ne ( 99%)
Weight% F uncti on
88.65 D i 1 uent
3.00 Humectant
0. 75 Humectant/
Lubri cant
0.15 P ar ti c l e S i ze
Reduction
0.10 S ki n Condi ti oner
0.10 Chel ati ng Agent
4. 00 Lubri cant
0.75
0.50 Emol 1 i ent
0. 20 E mul s i f i er
0. 40 Thickener
0. 60 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P art D:
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl 0. 80 P reservat i ve
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben ( 7)
(1) 190 S urfactant (Dow Corning)
( 2 ) P rotasorb 0-20 (Protameen Chemicals), Tween 80 ( I C I )
(3) 345 F l ui d (Dow Corni ng)
(4) Ceraphyl 140 (Van Dyk)
(5) Acrylates/C10-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 6) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
( 7) Germaben I 1 (S utton Labs)
(8) Men's Fragrance A62119/794456 (Haarman & Reimer)
Procedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Mix unti 1 homogeneous.
2 . I n a separate vessel , bl end P art B i ngredi ents . Pemulen and
Carbopol shoul d be s l ur r i ed i n t h i s phase. Di srupt any s of t
1 umps o f these res i ns.
10-15 minutes and then add P art C . Mix vi gorousl y t o produce
a smooth, gl ossy product.
4. Mi x P art D i nt o emulsion.
SOURCE! BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO033
3. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix f or
Shaving Products 507
After-Shave Cream
%W/W
I Carbopol 934 1 00
E thyl al cohol 96% 30. 00
Water 26 ~ 75
I 1 Tri ethanol ami ne 1 50
Water 5 00
I 11 Cuti na MD 3. 00
Eumulgin 82 1 00
C eti ol LC 5. 00
Water 26 75
P reparati on:
cream at 70C and add i t t o the gel produced.
Formula No D12-01
Al l ow I t o swel l , neutral i z e wi th 11, process I 11 i nt o a
I Menthol
E thyl al cohol 96%
I I Water
Bori c aci d
I 11 Carbopol 940
I V Tri ethanol ami ne
C eti ol HE
P reparati on:
Di ssol ve I and add
al l ow I 11 t o swel l i n
IV t o neutral i ze.
Formula No. 012-02
After-Shave Gel
%W/W
0 . 2
50. 0
42. 6
0 . 2
0 . 8
1 . 2
5.0
I 1 i n a di ssol ved s tate. S t i r r i ng qui ckl y,
the al cohol i c/aqueous s ol uti on. S t i r i n
After Shave Tonic
%W/W
Ethanol 96% 40. 0
Monomuls 90-L 12 1 . o
Lamacit GML 20 10. 0
A1 1 antoi n 0. 2
I rgasan DP 300 0 . 1
Perfume 0. 8
Water 47. 9
P reparati on :
Monomuls 90-L 12 i s di ssol ved i n Laniacit GML at 70C and
the perfume i s added. Ethanol and water are then added and,
f i na l l y, al l antoi n and I rgasan DP 300 are di ssol ved, s t i r r i n g
thorough1 y.
The pH i s adj usted wi th l a c t i c aci d.
Formula No. D51-05
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
508 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aftershave Gel
I nqredi ents :
A . Ethanol , 96% denatured
Perfume o i l
Menthol
Cremophor RH 60
Uvi nul D 50
B. Water, d i s t i l l e d
A1 1 antoi n
EDTA Aci d
C . Carbomer 980
D. Water, d i s t i l l e d
T r i s Amino
Procedure:
oh by Weiqht
60.00
2. 00
0. 10
0.80
0. 05
25.10
0. 10
0. 05
0. 50
10.00
0. 60
P art A: Di ssol ve perfume o i l , menthol, Cremophor RH 60 and Uvi nul
P art B: Di ssol ve al l antoi n and EDTA i n water and s t i r part B
P art C : Gentl y s i f t Carbomer 980 i nt o the combined P arts A and B
D 50 i n ethyl al cohol .
i nt o par t A.
whi l e mai ntai ni ng good agi tati on o f the mi xture. Continue
s t i r r i n g unt i l the Carbomer has been compl etel y di spersed
B and C i n order t o neutr al i z e the Carbomer. A hi ghl y
vi scous, transparent gel i s obtai ned. The pH val ue o f
the gel shoul d be approxi matel y 7.0-7.5
P art D: Di ssol ve T r i s Amino i n the water and s t i r i nt o par ts A ,
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary: Suggested
Formul a t i on PF-0189E
Slightly yellow, clear, low viscosity
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Ethanol /Al cohol (Cosmetic grade)
8 : B el s i l DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol
Ado1 66/ I sostearyl Al cohol
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Rewolan AWS/PEG-75 Lanol i n o i 1
75 . 00%
4. 00
2. 50
5.00
2. 50
C : Water 11 . oo
Mix B i nt o A s t i r r i ng l i ght l y. Add C s t i r r i ng l i ght l y. S t i r
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
unt i l a cl ear s ol uti on i s formed.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 351 AH
Pre-shave Lotion
Shaving Products 509
Shaving Cream
I Edenor K 1218 6.40
Edenor C 14 92-96% 11.20
S i egert S teari n L4 11.20
I 1 Potassium hydroxi de 7. 54
Sodium hydroxi de 0. 39
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 6. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne 1 . 05
I 1 1 Water 38.84
IV S i egert S teari n L4 11.20
V Texapon CS paste 3. 00
Eutanol G 2. 00
V I Menthol 0. 20
Perfume 1 . oo
P reparati on:
Mel t I at 8OC on the water bath, di s s ol ve I 1 i n I11 and heat
t o 8OC. S t i r t h i s s ol uti on i nt o I ( s aponi f i cati on) . The s t i r r i n g
process l as ts at l eas t lh at a temperature o f 80C. Mel t I V a t 8OC
and gradual l y add i t t o the mi xture. Af ter cool i ng t o 50C, V
i s reduced t o reduced t o approx. 40C and al s o s ti r r ed. V I i s
added at a temperature o f 30C. The l o s t water i s f i n a l l y re-
pl aced. The shavi ng cream i s mechani cal l y homogenized once. The
process i s repeated af ter 24 h, af ter which packaging takes
pl ace.
Note: Max. pH 11
Formula No. D11-01
I
I 1
I11
I V
Shaving Cream
Edenor K8-18
S i egert S teari n L4
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Water
Potassium hydroxi de s ol uti on 45%
Sodi um hydroxi de sol u t i on 45%
S i egert S teari n L4
Perfume
w
10. 0
28. 0
17. 0
23. 0
15.0
2. 5
3. 5
1. 0
P reparati on:
t o 8OC. S t i r t h i s s ol uti on sl owl y i nt o I ( s aponi f i cati on) . The
s t i r r i n g process l as ts a t l eas t 0. 5 h a t a temperature o f 8OC.
Mel t I V a t 8OC and gradual l y add i t t o the mi xture. Af ter
cool i ng t o 50C, V i s reduced t o approx. 40C and al s o s ti r r ed.
V I i s added a t a temperature o f 30C. The l os t water i s f i n a l l y
repl aced. The shavi ng cream i s mechani cal l y homogenized once.
The process i s repeated af ter 24 h, af ter which packaging takes
p l ace.
Note: Max. pH 11
Formula No. Dl l - 03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Mel t I at 8OC on the water bath, di s s ol ve I 1 i n 111 and heat
510 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shaving Cream
I Edenor K 1218
Edenor C14 92-94%
9aLN
9. 30
2. 50
S i egert S teari n 14 12.60
I 1 Sodium hydroxi de
0 21
P otassi um hydroxi de 7.00
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9 5 00
I 11 Water
40.09
I V S i egert S teari n L4
12.60
Comperlan HS 1 . 50
Polywax 1550 5. 20
V Texapon CS paste 3. 00
V I Perfume 1 . oo
P reparati on:
t o 80C S t i r the s ol uti on sl owl y i nt o I ( s aponi f i cat1on) The
s t i r r i n g process l as ts a t l eas t 0. 5 h a t a temperature o f 8OC.
Mel t I V a t 8OC and gradual l y add i t t o the mi xture. Af ter cool -
i ng t o 50C, V i s reduced t o approx. 40C and al s o s ti r r ed. V I i s
added a t a temperature o f 30C The l o s t water i s f i n a l l y repl ac-
ed. The shavi ng cream i s rnechani c a l l y homogeni zed once, The
process i s repeated a f t e r 24 h, af ter which packaging takes
p l ace.
Note Max pH 11
Formula Dl l-02
Mel t I a t 8OC on the water bath Di ssol ve I 1 i n I11 and heat
Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed
%Wi W
I Shaving cream D11-02 20 0
Texapon TH 2. 0
Aethoxal B 5 0
I I 1 , Z- propyl ene gl ycol 5 0
Water 68. 0
P reparati on. Mi x I, add t o I 1 and then homogenize mechani cal l y
F i l l i n g 92 parts above mi xture
Note Max pH 11
Formula No D71-01
8 parts propel l ant F ri gen 12
Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed
I Shaving cream D11-02
Texapon TH
C eti ol HE
Water
I 1 1,2-propylene gl ycol
P reparati on: Mi x I , add I 1 and then
F i 11 i ng: 92 parts above mi xture
8 parts propel l ant F ri gen
Note: Max. pH 11
Formula D71-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model
%WW
20. 0
2. 0
5. 0
5. 0
68.0
homogeni r e mechani cal l y.
12
Formulae
Shaving Products 511
Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving
I Eutanol G
I sopropanol
Perfume
I 1 Bori c aci d
Water
Formula No. D51-01
Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving
I Myri tol 318
I sopropyl Myri s tate
E thyl al cohol 96%
Perfume
Water
I 1 L acti c aci d 80%
Formula No. 1351-02
Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving
I C eti ol HE
Eumulgin 05
Menthol
E thyl al cohol 96%
Perfume
I 1 Al l antoi n
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Water
Formula No. 1351-03
Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving
I C eti ol HE
E thyl al cohol 96%
Menthol
Camphor
Perfume
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Bori c aci d
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. D51-04
SSOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
9 -
3. 2
66.8
0. 4
0. 2
29.4
%w/w
2.00
3.00
88.00
1 . oo
0.05
5. 95
%w/w
1 . oo
1 . oo
0.01
50.00
1 .oo
0.20
5. 00
41.79
%w/w
3.0
70. 0
0. 2
0. 2
0. 5
5. 0
10. 0
0. 2
10.9
Section XI
Soaps and Hand Cleaners
51 2
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 513
Ajinomoto Solid Bar AI-KK
I nqredi ents: Weiqht%
Sodium N-Cocoyl, Tallowyl-L-Glutamate (Ami soft GS-11) 42. 00
Sodi um cocoyl i s ethi onate
Cetyl al cohol
Ti tani um di oxi de
EDTA disodium s a l t
Dei oni zed water
42.00
7. 00
0. 10
0. 10
8. 80
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
P rocedure:
Di ssol ve c etyl al cohol and dei oni zed water a t 80 degrees
Centigrade w l t h s t i r r i ng.
Add ti tani um di oxi de and EDTA disodium s a l t and di sperse
thoroughl y.
Add smal l amount o f GS-11 (39 per lOOg o f water) t o the mi x-
tur e t o emul si fy a t 80 degrees C , cool wi th conti nued s t i r -
ri ng.
Add the mi xture from step 3 t o GS-11 and Sodium cocoyl -
i s ethi onate and mi ngl e thoroughl y.
M i l l the mi xture on a r o l l e r m i l l and then convert i n t o a
bar through an extruder.
Mold the bar i n a stamping machine.
Ajinomoto Clear Soap with Amisoft
-~ I ngredi ents :
Soap Materi a1 *
Ami s of t HS-21
E thyl Al cohol
Gl yceri n
Sugar
Water
*Typi cal Rati o o f Soap Materi al :
Sodi um Laurate 7. 75 wt%
Sodi urn Myri s tate 5. 66
Sodi um P al mi tate 23.47
Sodi um S tearate 39. 81
Sodi um 01 eate 23.31
SOURCE: Ajinmomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested Formulations
W_t%
41 . 2
5. 0
17. 0
7. 0
12. 0
17. 8
Formula TP-10
514 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti -Bacterial Handsoap
(Formula 91-1007)
% By Weiqht
Rhodacal A246LX 10.0
Rhodapon L-22HNC 25.0
Mi r atai ne CBS 3. 5
Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0. 2
P ropylene G1 ycol 1 . o
Alkamide LE 0.5
Ottasept E xtra (F erro) 1 . o
C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 5. 5- 6. 5
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q . S .
Sodium Chl ori de 0.05-0.50
Water 58.5
Bl endi na Procedure:
A246LX, Rhodapon L-22HNC, Mi ratai ne CBS, and Cheelox 100. Mix
u n t i l compl etel y uni form. I n a separate mi xi ng vessel , combine
P ropylene Gl ycol , Alkamide LE and Ottasept E xtra. Wi th gentl e
heat, mix u n t i l uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end
t h i s mi xture i nt o main system. Once system i s uni form, adj us t
pH t o 5. 5- 6. 5 wi th C i t r i c Aci d as needed and then bl end i n
compati bl e Fragrance, Dye(s), and P reservati ve. Adj ust the
formul ati on vi s cos i ty t o 7,000-10,000 cps wi th the j udi ci ous
addi ti on o f Sodium Chl ori de as needed.
Appearance @ 25C: Cl ear, Viscous L i qui d
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and sl owl y bl end i n Rhodacal
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
% Non Vol ati l es : 15-17
pH :
5. 5- 6. 5
Vi s cos i ty @ 25C:
7,000-10,000 CPS
Acti ve I ngredi ent: Chl oroxyl enol
Emollient Hand Cleaner
(Formula 91-1006)
"Cold Process Formula"
% by Weiaht
Rhodapon L-22HNC 35.0
Mi rapol 550 0. 5
M i rasheen 202 8. 0
Fragrance, Oye(s), P reservati ve Q. S .
C i t r i c Aci d Q . S . t o pH 5.5-6.5
Sodium Chl ori de 0.2-1 . o
Water 56.0
Bl endi na P rocedure: Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel . Wi th
smooth agi tati on, sl owl y bl end i n Rhodapon L-22HNC and Mi rapol
550. Mix u n t i l compl etel y uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on, sl owl y
bl end i n Mirasheen 202. Mix u n t i l uni form. Add compati bl e Frag-
rance, Oye(s), and P reservati ve. Adj ust formul ati on pH t o 5. 5- 6. 5
wi th C i t r i c Aci d as needed. Adj ust formul ati on vi s cos i ty t o
4,000-6,000 cps (No. 4 spi ndl e @ 10 RPM) wi th the j udi ci ous
addi ti on o f Sodium Chl ori de as needed.
Appearance @ 25C: Opaque/Pearl escent L i qui d
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
pH : 5.5-6.5
% Non Vol ati l es : 13-15
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 515
Conditioning Cleansing Bar
(Formula 91-1104)
Thi s combo bar combines the cl eani ng and foaming o f a soap
bar wi th the mi l dness and hard water compatabi l i ty o f a
s yntheti c detergent bar. Addi ti onal l y, i t i ncorporates the
s ki n condi ti oni ng properti es o f quaterni zed guar. Use o f t h i s
bar wi th i t s emol l i ents, moi s turi zers and condi ti oners leaves
the s ki n f eel i ng s of t and smooth. The bar has been s peci al l y
formul ated t o gi ve a non- al kal i ne pH t o more nearl y match the
s ki n' s natural pH.
% by Weiqht
Step A:
Geropon AS-200 76.0
80/20 Bradpri de Soap Base ( Ori gi nal Bradford
Soap Works) 7.0
S teari c Acid, T r i pl e Pressed Q.S.
Nadex 360 (Nati onal Starch) 0. 2
J aguar C-162 1 . o
Ti tani um Di oxi de 0. 2
Step 8:
Water
Sodium Chl ori de
Step C :
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve
4 . 2
0.5
Q . S .
Bl endi nq P rocedure:
Step A: Blend the dry components (Geropon AS-200, Soap Base,
S teari c Acid, Nadex 360, J aguar C-162, Ti tani um Di oxi de)
i n a powder mi xer.
components i n the water. Add uni forml y t o Step A t o
avoi d wet spots.
Step C : F i nal l y, add the fragrance evenl y t o Steps A and B.
Step D: When the batch has been uni forml y mixed, m i l l and/or
r ef i ne u n t i l batch i s homogeneous. Extrude and stamp
i nt o bars.
Step 8: Di ssol ve the Sodium Chl ori de and any other water sol ubl e
Tvoi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es:
Appearance: Opaque Bar
pH (5% di s pers i on) : 6. 5- 7. 0
CTFA I denti f i c ati on: Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate, S teari c Acid,
Sodium Tal l owate, Water, Dextri n, Sodium Cocoate and/or Sodium
Palm Kernal ate, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl tri moni um Chl or-
i de, Sodium Chl ori de, Ti tani um Di oxi de, Fragrance, P reservati ve,
Dye(s).
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
516 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Hand Cleanser
I ngredi ents: %w/w
Phase A :
Tetrasodi um EDTA 0. 10
Water 52.65
Cocamidopropyl Ami ne Oxide (Tegami ne Oxide WS 35) 5. 00
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (30%) 25.00
Sodi urn Lauryl Sul f ate (30%) 10. 00
PEG-20 Gl yceryl I sostearate (Tagat 12) 0. 50
P reservati ves P . S .
Col or 0 , s .
Fragrance 0, s .
*Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Gl yci ne (and)
F ructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I nos i tol
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L acti c Ac d ( L ac ti l ) 0.25
C i t r i c Aci d (25% S ol uti on) t o pH 6.5
Phase 8:
PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Anti 1 71) 1 .50
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne L-7 or F) 5.00
Phase C :
Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol uti on) As Needed f o r Vi s cos i ty
P rocedure:
1. Add the i ngredi ents i n order. Mix u n t i l uni form.
2. Adj ust pH wi th the C i t r i c Aci d.
3. Add the PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate. Mix u n t i l di spersed.
4 . Add the cocamidopropyl betai ne.
5. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the s al t.
Note: ALES/ALS can be s ubs ti tuted f o r the SLES/SLS
*Opti onal : P l ant extracts can be s ubs ti tuted f or the L ac ti l .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Vi s cos i ty w i l l i ncrease.
Emollient Liquid Hand Soap
Ammoni um Lauryl Sul f ate (30%)
Mackanate LA
Mackalene 426
Mackami de CMA
Mackernium 007
Mackester EGDS
Sodi urn Chl ori de
Paragon P reservati ve
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Weight , %
40.0
20. 0
6.0
2.0
1.2
1 . o
0. 8
q . s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add the f i r s t seven components t o water and heat t o 70C.
2. Blend u n t i l compl etel y homogeneous.
3. Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon preservati ve, fragrance and dye.
4 . Adj ust ph t o 5.5-6.5 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
5. Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 51 7
Cream Soap
I ngredi ents :
Amiter LGS-5 (Di steareth- 5 Lauroyl Glutamate)
P yroter CPI-40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor O i l PCA
Emalex 6300 M-ST (PEG-150 Monostearate)
Emal ex 6300 DI - S T (PEG-1 50 D i stearate)
Aj i dew N-50 (Sodium PCA)
1,3-Butylene Gl ycol
Cocoami de DEA
Sodium Tetradecene S ul fonate: AOS
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosi nate (30%)
Amisoft LS-11 (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate)
Water
S peci f i cati ons :
I sostearate)
pH: 5. 0
Vi s: 2500 cps
W ! N
2. 0
4. 0
3.0
1 . o
5. 0
19.0
5.0
3. 0
2. 0
36.0
20.0
Thi s cream soap has a pearl escent appearance, s of t touch
and good foaming characteri s ti cs .
Formula H-046
Cream Soap
I ngredi ents/ Trade Name:
Sodi um Lauryl G1 utamate/Ami s of t LS-1 1
Sodi um S tearate
Sodium Laurate
Gl yceri n
P ol yoxyethyl ene S orbi tan Monolaurate (20 E . O. )
Water
C r ys tal l i z ati on Temp: 46 degrees Centi grade
pH: 8.6 (5% aq. s ol uti on, 25 degrees Centi grade)
Formula AS-354-G
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
% Weight
15.00
17.00
7. 00
24.00
5.00
q s
518 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Soap
(NO. H-046)
I ngredi ents:
Amiter LGS-5 (Di steareth- 5 Lauroyl Glutamate)
P yroter CPI-40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor O i l PCA
Emalex 6300 M-ST (PEG-150 Monostearate)
Emalex 6300 DI - S T (PEG-I50 Di stearate)
Aj i dew N-50 (Sodium PCA)
1 , 3- Butyl enegl ycol
Cocamide DEA
Sodium Tetradecene S ul fonate: AOS
Sodi um Cocoyl Sarcosi nate (30%)
Ami soft LS-11 (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate)
Water
Speci f i cat i ons :
I sostearate)
pH: 5 . 0
Vi s cos i ty: 2500 cps
Wt%
2. 0
4. 0
3.0
1 . o
5. 0
19. 0
5. 0
3. 0
2. 0
36.0
20. 0
Thi s cream soap has a pearl escent appearance, s of t touch and
good foaming characteri s ti cs .
Bar Soap
I ngredi ents:
Ami soft GS-11 (Sodium Hydrogenated Tal l ow Glutamate &
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate)
Water
Cetyl
T i tan
Di sod
Al cohol
um Diox
um EDTA
de
Cream Soap
I ngredi ents/ Trade Name:
Sodi um Lauryl G1 utamate/Ami s of t LS-11
Sodi um S tearate
Sodi um Laurate
Gl yceri n
P ol yoxyethyl ene S orbi tan Monolaurate (20 E . O . )
Water
C r ys tal l i z ati on Temp 46, degrees Centi grade
pH: 8. 6 (5% aq. s ol uti on, 25 degrees Centi grade)
Formula AS-354-G
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Wt%
84.0
8. 8
7. 0
0. 1
0. 1
YO Wei ght
15. 00
17. 00
7. 00
24.00
5 . 0 0
a s
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 519
Emollient Hand Cleanser
I ngredi ents: %w/w
Phase A :
Water 47 IO0
Tetrasodi um EDTA 0. 10
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate (30%) 30. 00
Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate (30%) 10.00
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 1 . oo
*Sodium L actate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Gl yci ne (and)
F ructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I nos i tol
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L acti c Aci d ( L ac ti l ) 0. 25
PEG-30 Gl yceryl Laurate 0 I 25
P reservati ves Q. S .
Col or Q. S .
Fragrance Q. S.
C i t r i c Aci d (25% S ol uti on) t o pH 6. 5
Phase B:
PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Anti 1 171)
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (and) Gl yceryl Laurate
(Tego Betai ne HS)
I
10
Phase C :
Sodium Chl ori de (25% S ol uti on) As Needed f o r Viscos
40
00
Procedure:
1. Add the i ngredi ents i n order. Mi x u n t i l uni form.
2. Adj ust pH wi th the C i t r i c Aci d.
3. Add the PEG-18 Gl yceryl Oleate/Cocoate. Mix u n t i l di spersed.
Vi s cos i ty wi 11 i ncrease.
4. Add the Tego Betai ne HS.
5. Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th the s al t.
Note: ALES/ALS can be s ubs ti tuted f or the SLES/SLS.
*Opti onal - pl ant extracts can be s ubs ti tuted f or the L ac ti l .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F ormul ati on
Clear Emollient Hand Soap
TEA Lauryl S ul f ate (40%)
Mackam 35HP
Mackalene 426
Mackstat DM
Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
Weight ,%
35.0
10. 0
6.0
q . s .
100.0
Procedure:
1. Add components t o water and heat t o 40C. 2 . Blend u n t i l cl ear
3. Adj ust pH t o 5. 0- 6. 0 wi th c i t r i c aci d.
4 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group L td. : Suggested F ormul ati on
520 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap
Clear, 11.2% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Genapol LRO l i qui d
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
B Perfume
C eti ol HE
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate
Water
Dyestuff s ol uti on
P reservati ve
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
35 I 00%
0.20%
1 .OO%
55.30%
4, s .
q. s.
2.00%
6.00%
C Sodium chl ori de 0.50%
P rocedure:
I One af t er another the components o f B are added t o A.
I 1 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I11 F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th C.
Formula A I I / 1027
Liquid Soap
With pearl lustre effect, 14.6% active ingredient
Recipe:
A Hostapon SCID
Sodium Cocoyl I s ethi onate
4.00%
B Water 53.90%
C Genapol ZRO l i q u i d 30.00%
Sodium Laureth S ul f ate
Perfume 0.30%
Genapol PGL 4.00%
Gl ycol Di s tearate (and) Cocamide MEA and PPG-4 Deceth-4
Dyestuff s ol uti on 9 , s .
P reservat i ve q. s .
Genagen CAB 6.00%
Cocami dopropyl Betai ne
D Sodium chl ori de 1 .BO%
P rocedure:
I Di ssol ve A i n B a t 60C.
I 1 One af t er another the components of C are added t o I a t 35C.
I11 I f necessary adj us t the pH.
I V F i nal l y adj us t the vi s cos i ty wi th D.
Formula A I I / 1033
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 521
Liquid Soap
Clear, slightly yellow gel
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl Betai ne
Water
Water
Genagen CA 050
Sodium Chl ori de
B el s i l DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
16.00%
41 . 20
37. 30
2. 00
2. 00
0. 50
9. s .
Di ssol ve HOE S 3267 i n water, mix i n the remai ni ng components.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 230 AH
Liquid Soap
Clear, high-viscosity gel with good foaming effect.
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
A : Water
Tyl ose H 4000 P / Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose
B: Wacker-Belsil DMC 6038/Dimethicone Copolyol
C: Comperlan KD/Cocamide DEA
Texapon NA/Ammonium Laureth S ul f ate
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
Mix A, add B, s t i r C i nt o AB
Formula 1067 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
77.00%
1 . oo
3. 00
3. 00
16. 00
9 , s .
522 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner
I npredi ents:
A. Veegum
Water
B. Gl yceri n
Tergi to1 NP-10
AMP-Regul ar
C . Deodori zed kerosene
Ol ei c aci d
Arl acel 186
Cl earl an
% by Weiaht
2.00
73.00
4.00
3. 00
0.50
10. 00
1.50
5. 00
1- 00
P reservati ve 9 , s .
Procedure:
avai l abl e shear, Continue mi xi ng u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and
heat t o 50C. Add C t o A/B. Mi x u n t i l uni form. Add desi red
preservati ve.
Comments:
formul ati on, gl yceri n serves as a humectant whi l e the l anol i n
hel ps prevent def atti ng o f the s ki n.
F ormul ati on PF-0125 suggested by R . T . Vanderbi l t Co., I nc.
Sl owl y add Veegum t o the water whi l e agi tati ng a t maximum
Consi stency: P ourable l i q u i d
Suggested Packaging: Pump di spenser
Veegum s tabi l i z es and thi ckens t h i s l i q u i d emulsion. I n t h i s
Liquid Soap
I ngredi ents:
Ammonium l aureth s ul f ate, 60%
Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
Sodium chl ori de
Gl ycol di s tearate
C i t r i c aci d
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
Bronopol
Water, col or, fragrance
% by Wei aht
24.00
6.00
1. 50
1. 30
1 . oo
0.25
0. 15
0. 05
0. 05
q . s . t o 100.00
Procedure:
and Bronopol . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. Cool and add Bronopol and
fragrance and f i l l .
F ormul ati on PF-0130 from Cosmetics and T oi l etr i es , Vol 101,
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Heat water t o 70-75C. Add a l l i ngredi ents except fragrance
J ul y 1986
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 523
Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5
I nqredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water 39.55
2. Bio-Terge AS-40 25.00
3. Methylparaben 0.15
P art B:
4. Ri tas ynt I P 4.00
5. P ati oni c I SL 3.00
6. Ritapeg 150 DS 1 .oo
P art C:
7. Ritavena 5 2.00
8. Di s t i l l e d Water (100C) 20.00
P art D:
9. Walnut S hel l s (AD-7B Type from Agrashel l , I nc. ) 5.00
P art E :
10.NaCl ( 25% S ol uti on) PS
11 .Kathon CG 0.10
12 . Tri ethanol ami ne (50% S ol uti on) 0. 15
13.Perfume 0. 05
Compounding P rocedure:
Heat P arts A and B t o 165F. Combine wi th i mpel l er agi tati on.
Premix P art C i n a bl ender f o r 2 minutes. Add P arts C and D t o
AB mi xture. Mix unt i l uni form. Cool t o 120F. Add P art E. Adj ust
pH t o 6. 0 w i t h Tri ethanol ami ne (50% S ol uti on) . Adj ust vi s cos i ty
wi th NaCl (25% S ol uti on) .
Formula 11 4-25
Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5
I naredi ents: %w/w
P art A:
1. Di s t i l l e d Water 40.10
2. Bio-Terge AS-40 25.00
3. Methylparaben 0.15
P art 8 :
4. Ri tasynt I P 4.00
5. P ati oni c I SL 3.00
6. Ritapeg 150 DS 0.50
P art C:
7. Ritavena 5 2.00
8. Di s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 20.00
P art D:
9. Walnut S hel l s (AD-78 Type from Agrashel l , I nc . ) 5.00
P art E:
10.NaC1 (25% S ol uti on) as
11.Kathon CG 0.05
12 . Tri ethanol ami ne (50% S ol uti on) 0.15
13.Perfume 0.05
Compounding P rocedure:
Heat P arts A and B t o 165F. Combine. Premix P art C i n a
bl ender f o r 2 minutes. Add P arts C and D t o AB mi xture. Mix u n t i l
uni form. Cool t o 120F. Add P art E. Adj ust pH t o 6.0 wi th T r i -
ethanolamine (50% S ol uti on) . Adj ust vi s cos i ty wi th NaCl (25%
S ol uti on) .
Formula 11 4-35
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp.: RITAVENA 5 Suggested Formulations
524 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shebu Bar Soap
A Shebu beauty bar which combats dryness and leaves a lux-
urious after-feel.
Ingredients: 9p4JJ
Base: Palm Coco
Color: Ye1 low q . s .
Fragrance: Alpine Floralistic 0.75%
Addit: Shebu Refined (Shea Butter) 0.75%
Lactylate) 0.50%
Pationic 138C (Sodium Lauroyl
Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl 0 .SO%
Lactylate)
Ti02 0.50%
Ref. No.: 117-65A
Function
Soap Base
Color
Odor
Emol 1 i ency
Mi ldness
Moi sturi z-
ati on
Opaci f i er
Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap
For sensitive skin with pure natural
Leaves your skin soft and clean without
Inqredients:
Base: Veg. Translucent
Color: Gold
Fragrance: Alpine Floralistic
Addit: Pationic 138C (Sodium Lauroyl
Lactyl ate)
Pationic I S L (Sodium Isostearoyl
Lactylate)
Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter)
Ref. No.: 117-658
glyceri ne and Shebu.
feeling tight or dry.
%w/w Function
q . s . Color
100% Odor
Soap Base
0.50% Mi 1 dness
0 I 50% Moi sturi za-
tion
1.00% Emolliency
Soap Base Beauty Bar
A high foaming beauty bar which combats
luxurious after-feel.
Ingredients:
1 . Soap Base 80/20 Tallow/Coco
2. Versenex 80 (Pentasodium Pentetate)
3. Turpinal 4NL (Tetrasodiuum Etidronate)
4. Fragrance Oil 0-79-531
5. Rita PEO-1 (PEG-5M)
6. Pationic ISL (Na Isostearoyl Lactylate)
dryness and leaves a
%w/w Function
94.00 Cleaning,
q . s . Caking
q . s . Caking
Lather
1-00 Odor
1.50 Slip, Feel
3.00 Mildness,
Lather
50 Opacity 7. Titanium Dioxide 0
Compounding Procedure:
Pre-mix fragrance into Pationic ISL. Combine
until uniform. Add the Pationic ISL/fragrance m
inue blending until uniform. pH: 10.0-10.5
Ref. No.: H-89-P-10
other materi a1 s
xture and cont-
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Shower /Bat h Care
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 525
Shebu Bar Soap
A Shebu beauty bar which combats dryness and
l uxuri ous af ter- f eel .
I ngredi ents: %w/w
Col or: Y el l ow q . s .
Base: Palm Coco
Fragrance: Al pi ne F l o r a l i s t i c 0. 75
Addi t: Shebu Refi ned (Shea Butter) 0.75
P ati oni c 138C (Sodium Lauroyl
L actyl ate) 0. 50
P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl
L actyl ate) 0. 50
Ti 02 0. 50
Ref. No. 117-65A
l eaves a
F uncti on
Soap Base
Col or
Odor
Emol 1 i ency
Mi l dness
Moi s turi z ati on
Opaci f i er
Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap
For s ens i ti ve s ki n wi th pure natural gl yceri ne and Shebu.
Leaves your s ki n s of t and cl ean wi thout f eel i ng t i g h t or dry.
I naredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
Base: Veg. Transl ucent Soap Base
Col or: Gold q . s . Col or
Fragrance: Al pi ne F l o r a l i s t i c 100.00 Odor
Addi t: P ati oni c 138C (Sodium
Lauroyl L actyl ate) 0.50 Mi 1 dness
L actyl ate) 0.50 Moi s tur i z ati on
P ati oni c I S L (Sodium I sostearoyl
Shebu- WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter) 1 . 00 Emol 1 i ency
Ref. No. 117-656
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Bath & Shower Care
526 Cosmetic and Toiletrj Formulations
Synthetic Detergent (SYNDET) Cleansing Bar
Thi s mi l d, s yntheti c detergent bar gentl y cl eans and provi des
copious, l uxuri ous l ather, l eavi ng a smooth af ter- f eel on the
ski n, Veegum F, mi croni zed Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i cate, reduces
softeni ng o f the bar i n the soap di s h af ter use. Vanseal LS,
l auroyl sarcosi ne, when melted, acts as a sol vent f or the s teari c
aci d and sodium cocoyl i s ethi onate. Vanlube PCX, BHT i s used as
an anti oxi dant.
I naredi ent:
A : Vanseal LS, Lauroyl
S teari c Aci d
Sodium Cocoyl I s eth
B: Veegum F, Magnesium
Vanlube PCX, BHT
Sodium Hydroxide So
P reservati ve, Dye,
*As Received Basi s
Mi x i ne Procedure:
Sarcosine
onate
A1 umi num S i 1 i cate
uti on t o pH 6. 5
ragrance
I by Weiqht*
32.63
32.64
32.63
2. 00
0. 10
q.s.
q . 9 .
Heat Vanseal LS t o 50C. Add s teari c aci d and s t i r gentl y
u n t i l the mi xture i s cl ear. Add sodium cocoyl i s ethi onate and
mix u n t i l smooth and uni form. Mai ntai n the temperature between
50 and 60C. Add par t B i ngredi ents i n the order shown, mi xi ng
each u n t i l smooth and uni form. Pour the mi xture i nt o warm (50C)
soap molds and cool t o room temperature.
SOURCE; R.T. Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Formula No. 4 5 5
Cream Hand Cleanser
Mackanate LO-Special
Gl yceri ne
Mackami de PKM
Mackerni um 007
Mackstat DM
Water, Fragrance q s t o
P rocedure:
Wei aht , %
78. 0
5. 0
4.0
2. 0
q . s .
100. 0
1. Add Mackamide PKM and gl yceri ne t o Mackanate LO-Special and
heat t o 70C.
2. Blend unti 1 homogeneous I
3. Di ssol ve Mackernium 007 i n remai ni ng water and sl owl y add t o
4 . Blend u n t i l compl etel y homogeneous.
5. Cool t o 50C wi th mi l d agi tati on.
6. Add Mackstat DM, fragrance and cool wi th conti nuous agi tati on.
SOURCE: McI ntyre Group Ltd. : Suggested F ormul ati on
product.
Soaps and Hand Cleaners 527
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I naredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Tween 80 (1)
G l yceri n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
Odorless Mi neral S pi r i t s
F i nsol v TN ( 2 )
Acetul an (3)
Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 )
Carbopol 954 ( 5 )
P art C :
Tri ethanol ami ne, 99%
P art D:
Germaben I I E (6)
Weight% F uncti on
62.45 Di 1 uent
0.40 Surfactant
4.00 Humectant
0. 05 Chel ati ng Agent
30.00 Sol vent
1 . OO Emol l i ent
0.50 Emol 1 i ent
0. 30 E mul s i f i er
0.20 Thickener
0. 40 Neutral i zi ng
Agent
0. 70 P reservati ve
: 1) P ol ysorbate 80 ( I C 1 Americas)
:2) C12-Cl5 Al cohol s Benzoate (F i netex)
13) Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetyl ated L anol i n Al cohol (Amerchol)
: 4 ) Acryl ates/ClO-C30 A1 kyl Acryl ate Crosspol ymer ( BFGoodri ch)
:5) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
:6) P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and) Methyl Paraben
P reparati on Procedure:
1 ) Prepare P art A i n a vessel which w i l l contai n the enti r e
2) Prepare P art B i n a separate vessel . Pemulen and Carbopol
3) Add P art B t o the P art A vessel . Mi x f o r 15-20 mi nutes.
4 ) Add P art C and mix vi gorousl y t o produce a smooth product.
5) Mix P art D i nt o emulsion. Cease agi tati on and f i l l contai ners.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co,: Formula PO002
(and) P ropyl Paraben (Sutton Labs)
formul ati on.
shoul d be s l ur r i ed i n t hi s phase.
Section XII
Sun Care Products
528
Sun Care Products 529
After Sun Lotion
White creamy lotion. Easily spread
Mater i a1 /CTFA- I ndex :
A : Mi neral ni 1 l ow vi s cos i ty
S teari c Aci d
Cetyl Al cohol
A1 l antoi n/5-Urei do-hydantoi n
Tri ethanol ami ne
B el s i l PDM 20/Phenyl Dimethicone
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments
B : Water
C: P ropylene Gl ycol
D: B el s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.) Dimethiconol
5. 00%
5. 00
1. 50
67. 20
0.50
0. 80
3. 00
2. 00
15. 00
q . s .
Heat A and B t o 65C. Add A t o B wi th s t i r r i ng. Add C and
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C more than 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 606 AH
s t i r unt i l cool , add D a t approx. 30-4OC.
Sun Tan Cream
Soft, white cream, well absorbed
Materi a 1ICTFA- ~~ I ndex :
A: Crodawachs GP 200/Stearyl Al cohol ( a. ) PEG S tearate
Tegi naci d/Gl yceryl S tearate( a. ) Ceteareth-20
B el s i l PDM 1000/Phenyl Dimethicone
Eusolex 6300
Eusolex 8020
B: Water
C: B el s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.) Dimethiconol
P reservati ves, perfumes, pigments
Heat A and B t o 70C. S t i r i nt o B and add C .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: 3 weeks a t 45C.
F ormul ati on 578 AH
Sun Tan Oil
Colourless, clear, low viscosity
Materi alJ CTFA-Index: __
A: B el s i l CM 025/Cyclomethicone
I sopropyl Myri s tate
Mi neral o i l
P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
Mix A , add P arsol MCX and mi x.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 197 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
3 . 80%
5. 00
3. 50
2. 50
1. 50
73. 70
10. 00
q . s .
l O . O D %
10.00
77.00
3.00
q. s
530 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After-Sun-Milk
Recipe:
Hostaphat KL 340 N
T r i l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Hostaceri n DGS
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh v i scosi ty
I sopropyl pal mi tate
C eti ol SN
Cetearyl I sononanoate
J oj oba o i l
Walnut o i l
D-Panthenol
B-Caroti n
Anti oxi dant
Carbopol 980
Carbomer
A1 1 antoi n
Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c.
Ethylenediamine Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water)
G1 yceri ne
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservat i ve
Col l agen KD
Ethanol
Perfume
1.50%
4.00%
3.00%
3.00%
3.00%
3.00%
3.00%
1 .OO%
q. s .
q. s .
0.40%
0.20%
0.10%
0.25%
3.00%
1.60%
67.15%
q . s .
3.00%
1.50%
0.30%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add 8 .
I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I.
I V S t i r unti 1 cool .
V A t 35C add the components o f D t o I V .
V I Homogeni ze i f necessary.
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons f o r Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es :
Formula A VI/3016
Sun Care Products 531
After Sun Milk
I npredi ents: P arts bv Weight
P art A - Oi l Phase:
Egg yol k extract (Tensami 8/09) 100.00
Refi ned avocado o i l 20.00
Calendula extract 0.10
Tocopherol 0.10
P art 6-Water Phase:
Dei oni zed water SQFlOOO
Leci thi n- xanthan gum (Tensami 1/05) 7 -00
Calendula extract 20.00
270 Sol ari um HS 30.00
Amigel i n aqueous s ol uti on a t 2% 250.00
P art C :
I sopropyl myri s tate 30.00
Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940) 2. 00
P art D:
Bronopol 0. 60
Myacide SP 0. 50
P art E:
Perfume 2.00
Procedure:
P repare A and B phases (do not heat). Add phase A t o phase
B. Whi l e agi tati ng, add phase C and then the i ngredi ents of
phase D one by one. Add phase E. Balance the pH around 6.5-7.0.
F ormul ati on PF-0275E suggested i n Soap, Perfumery, Cosmetics;
October, 1993 i ssue.
A .
B.
C .
D.
Moisturizing Hydrogel with B-Glucan
Thi s product i s used af ter exposure t o the sun t o regai n the
moi sture l o s t by the s ki n. Heal i ng and moi s turi z i ng are two o f
i t s uni que properti es which 8-Glucan has on i nfl amed s ki n
(sunburn). Beesmilk pl aces a protecti ve bar r i er over the s ki n
t o preven moi sture l os s .
I naredi ents: % by Weiqht
Carbomer 940, 2% 54.00
G1 ycosome
APT
Ginkgo extract
Al oe vera gel
P ol yquaternary spearmint extract
F i r m i ng 1 i posome
Phenoni p
T r i s Amino
Dei oni zed water
Methylparaben
D i sodi urn EDTA
6-Glucan, 70%
Beesmi 1 k
3.70
3.50
2. 00
5. 00
4.00
3. 00
0. 70
3. 20
13.40
0. 40
0. 08
0. 02
7 . 0 0
Procedure:
Cool BC t o 30C, add t o A under agi tati on. Sl owl y add D t o ABC;
mi x i ng unti 1 homogeneous.
F ormul ati on PF-0326 suggested by Koster Keunen
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co I : Angus P roduct Formul a r y
Add A under agi tati on. Heat B t o 8OC. A t 8OC, add C; mix wel l .
532 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen
Thi s formul a i s not an emulsion but rather a suspension o f
several water- i nsol ubl e i ngredi ents i n water. Veegum P1 us prev-
ents these i ngredi ents from s ettl i ng and/or separati ng. The
physi cal sunscreen used i s mi croni zed T i tani um Di oxi de. Thi s
formul a al s o contai ns liposomes wi th a payload o f the wel l -
known moi s turi z i ng agents Sodium PCA and amino aci ds. A s i l i c one
o i l di spersi on i s al s o i ncl uded t o enhance appl i cati on proper-
t i e s . The formula contai ns no emul si fyi ng agents.
I ngredi ent: % by w t . *
A: Dei oni zed Water 59.70
C el l ul ose Gum) 1 .50
Rhodi gel (Xanthan Gum) 0. 20
B: Gl yceri n (and) Ti tani um Di oxi de** 28 I 60
C: Dei oni zed Water (and) Phenyl Tri methi cone (and)
Veegum P l us (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate (and)
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Phospho-
l i p i d s (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben
(and) Carbomer (and) Tri ethanol ami ne (and) E thyl -
paraben (and) P ropylparaben (and) Butylparaben*** 5. 00
D: P reservati ve q . s .
E: Dei oni zed Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) P hosphol i pi ds
(and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and)
Xanthan Gum (and) Argi ni ne (and) Lysi ne (and) Gl yci ne
(and) Methylparaben (and) P rol i ne (and) Ethyl paraben
(and) P ropylparaben (and) Butylparaben**** 5.00
* As Received Basi s
**Ti02 Sperse GLY
***Sati n F i ni s h
****Moi s tur i zi ng Liposomes
M i x i ng Procedure:
Weigh and dry bl end the Veegum P l us and Rhodi gel . Add the
bl end t o the P art A water a t room temperature, mi xi ng wi th a
propel l er mi xer a t 1800 rpm. Continue mi xi ng f or 30 mi nutes.
Add P art B and mix 10 minutes at 1800 r pm. Add P arts C and D
t o the batch i n the order shown. Mix P art C f o r 10 minutes a t
1800 rpm before adding P art D. Mix P art D 5 minutes a t the same
speed. Slow the mi xer t o 500 r p m and add P art E. Mi x 5 minutes
and package.
P roduct C haracteri s ti cs :
Vi s cos i ty: 1300-1700 cps ( Brookf i el d Model LVT, #3 @ 60 rpm)
pH: 7. 5- 7. 8
SOURCE: R. T. Vanderbi l t Co., Inc.: Formula No. 464
Sun Care Products 533
High SPF Sunscreen Cream
I ngredi ent:
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water
Gl yceri n
D i sodi um EDTA
P art B:
Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate
Octyl Sal i cy1 ate
Oxybenzone
C12-Cl5 A1 coho1 s Benzoate ( 1 )
S orbi tan 01 eate
Pemulen TR-1 (2)
Carbopol 980 (3)
Wei ght% Funct i on
73.37 Di 1 uent
2 - 50 Humectant
0.03 Chel ati ng Agent
7.50 UVB Absorber
5. 00 UVB Absorber
5. 00 UVA Abosrber
4. 00 Emoll i ent/Sol vent
0.30 S urfactant
0. 30 E mul s i f i er
0.50 Thickener
P art C:
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl 0.80 P reservati ve
Urea (and) Methyl Paraben (and)
P ropyl Paraben (4)
P art D:
T r i ethanol ami ne (99%) 0.70 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
(1) F i ns ol v TN (F i netex)
(2) Acrylates/ClO-C30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(3) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(4) Germaben I I E (Sutton)
P reparati on :
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents . Mi x u n t i l homogeneous.
2. Combine f i r s t f i ve P art 8 i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel .
Mix u n t i l oxybenzone has di ssol ved. Warming w i l l hasten
d i ssol uti on .
3. Add Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol 980 t o P art B vessel . Mix t o
break-up any s of t agglomerates o f powder.
4. Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art 8 t o P art A. Mi x f o r 30-40
minutes or u n t i l a smooth, non-grainy di s pers i on i s apparent.
Add P art C.
5 . Add P art D and mix vi gorous l y u n t i l a smooth, l us trous
product i s obtai ned.
Formula 700-213-8C
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: Waterproof Sunscreen Emulsions
534 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Solids Highly Emollient Suntan Lotion
L i pi d l ayer rel ated attr i butes from Ritaderm
rheol ogy from Acri tamer gi ves a l ubri ci ous , l ow
spectrum UV sunscreen.
I ngredi ents: %w/w
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 76.10
2. Acri tamer 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.10
3. R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 5.00
4. Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend) 5.00
5. R i tal an (L anol i n O i l ) 1.00
6. R i tacetyl (Acetyl ated Lanol n) 2.50
7. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 0. 70
8. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl Monostea ate) 1.50
9. R i ta S teari c Aci d 2- 00
10. Mi neral O i l 2.00
11 . Octyl Dimethyl PABA 2.50
12. Tri ethanol ami ne (50%) 1.60
13. Fragrance q. s .
Compoundlng P rocedure:
and low vi s cos i ty
sol i ds , broad
Funct i on
Rheol ogy ,
S tabi 1 i zer
Emoll i ent
Moi s turi z i ng
Emoll i ent
Emol 1 i ent
Emu1 s i f i er
E mul s i f i er
E mul s i f i er
Emoll i ent
Sunscreen
Neutral i zer
Odor
----
Di sperse 2 i nt o 1 and hydrate 15 mi nutes. Heat t o 165F.
Separatel y combine i tems 3-11 and heat to 165F. Mi x u n t i l
uni form. Combine phases wi th mi xi ng. Neutral i z e wi th 12. Cool
wi th mi xi ng t o 120F. Add preservati ve and fragrance. Cool and
package.
Ref. No. 118-13
Sun Care
DIN Standard Reference
(USFDA Tentative Final Monograph)
Reference standard used i n FDA Monograph as standard.
I ngredi ents: %w/W F uncti on
2. Acri tamer 934 (Carbomer 934) 0.10 S tabi 1 i zer,
Rheology
3. Gl yceri ne 3.40 E mol l i ent
4. Methylparaben 0. 10 P reservati ve
5. P ropylene Gl ycol 1.00 E mol l i ent
6. Mi neral O i l 5. 00 Emoll i ent
7. R i ta S teari c Aci d 1.50 E mul s i f i er
8. R i ta Cetearyl Al cohol 0.40 E mul s i f i er
9. P ropylparaben 0.10 P reservati ve
10.P-Methoxy-Cinnamic Aci d- 2- Ethyl -
hexyl E ster 2.70 Sunscreen
11 . T r i ethanol ami ne (99% Sol n . ) 1.80 Neutral i z er
Compounding Procedure:
Di sperse 2 i nt o 1 and hydrate 15 minutes wi th mi xi ng. Add 3-5.
Heat t o 165F. S eparatel y combine 6-10 and heat t o 165F. Mi x wel l .
Combine i n t o aqueous phase. Neutral i z e wi th mi xi ng and cool .
Ref, No. 118-66
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Sun Care Manual
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 83.90 ----
Sun Care Products 535
Nourishing UVB Gel Sunscreen
Basi c gel l ed formul ati on wi th aqueous UVB sunscreens. S ki n
nourishment and anti - i r r i tanc y,
I naredi ents :
1. Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)
2. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
3. Ri tapan D (d-P anthenol)
4 . DEA Methoxy Cinnamate
5. SD Al cohol (Ethanol @ 95%)
6. Ri tachol (Mi neral O i l and Lanol
A1 coho1 )
7. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoy
L actyl ate)
8. P reservat i ve
9. Fragrance
10.NaOH (18% S ol n. )
Comooundina Procedure:
%w/w F uncti on
1. 00 Gel l i ng Agent
0.20 Condi ti oner
3. 00 Sunscreen
74.90 ----
10.00 Sol vent/
Sol ubi 1 i zer
n
8.00 E mol l i ent
0. 50 Sol ubi 1 i zer
q . s . P reservati ve
q. s. Odor
2.40 Neutral i z er
Prepare-Carbomer gel by di spersi ng i tem 1 i n t o i tem 2 wi th
agi tati on. Neutral i z e wi th i tem 10. S eparatel y combine i tems
3,4 and 5 and mix u n t i l di ssol ved and uni form. Add t o Carbomer
gel wi th l ow sheer mi xi ng, then add i tem 6. S ol ubi l i z e f rag-
rance (9) wi th (7), add t o Carbomer gel . P reserve and package.
Ref. No. 118-152
Bain de Soleil Type Orange Gelee
Broad spectrum UV protecti on i n a non-greasy waterproof gel
type formul a based on R i tapl as t. P roduct has hi gh body gl oss.
I nqredi ents : %w/w F uncti on
1. R i tapl as t - 50W 68.00 F i l m Former
2 . R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 28.00 E mol l i ent
3. P ropylparaben 0. 08 P reservati ve
4. Menthyl Anthrani l ate 2.92 Sunscreen
5. Ritaphenone-3 (Benzophenone-3) 1 .OO Sunscreen
Compounding Procedure:
Di ssol ve i tem 3 i nt o
remaining i tem 1. Add 1
Add bl end 3/1, u n t i l un
Ref. No. 118-146
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. :
a porti on o f i tem 1. Di l ute i tem 2 i nt o
kewise i tems 4 and 5 wi th mi l d s t i r r i ng.
form, and package.
Sun Care Manual
536 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W-Sun-Screen-Milk
Manufacturing at room temperature
Reci pe :
A HostaDhat KL 340 N
T r i l aureth- 4 Phosphate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh v i scosi t y
I sopropyl pal mi tate
B Neo-He1 i opan E 1000
I soamyl p-Methoxycinnamate
Neo-He1 i opan BB
Benzophenone-3
C Carbopol 980
Car bome r
D Gl yceri ne
NaOH (10% i n water)
Water
P reservati ve
E Perfume
Procedure:
I Add the s ol uti on o f B t o A, then add C
I 1 S t i r E i nt o I, then add E .
I11 Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /7007
3.00%
10.00%
5.00%
a. 50%
8.50%
0.50%
3.00%
1.65%
66.65%
q. s .
0.30%
O/W-Sun-Screen-Milk
Recipe:
A Hostaceri n DGL 1 .OO%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-10 Laurate
Hostaceri n DGS 4.00%
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 S tearate
Mi neral o i 1, hi gh vi s cos i ty 6.00%
Avocado o i l 1 .OO%
Neo-Heliopan E 1000 9.00%
I soamyl p-Methoxycinnamate
Neo-He1 i opan BB 1 .OO%
Benzophenone-3
Anti oxydant q. s.
8 PNC 400 0.30%
P ol yacryl i c Aci d-Sodi um S al t
C Aquamollin BC pdr. h. c. 0.10%
Ethyl ene Tetraaceti c Acid-Sodium S al t
C i t r i c aci d (10% i n water) 0.25%
Water 77.05%
P reservati ve 9, s .
D Perfume 0.30%
Procedure:
I Mel t A a t 70C, then add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C.
I11 S t i r I 1 i nt o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool .
V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f necessary.
Formula A VI /7200
SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide F ormul ati ons for Cosmetics & T oi l etr i es
Sun Care Products 537
Sprayable Sunscreen
Thi s l i g h t sunscreen appl i es qui ckl y and spreads eas i l y. I t
gi ves an approximate waterproof SPF o f 15.
I ngredi ent (CTFA): Weight% F uncti on
P art A:
Deionized Water
G1 ycer i n
T r i ethanol ami ne, 99%
P art B:
Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate
Octyl Sal i cy1 ate
Oxybenzone
C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate (1)
Oleth-I O (2)
S orbi tan Ol eate (3)
Dimethicone, 100 cs.
Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 )
79.20 D i 1 uent
3. 00 Humectant
0. 12 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
7.00
3.00
2.00
4.00
0.08
0.05
0.50
0.15
UVB Absorber
UVB Absorber
UVA Absorber
Emol l i ent/Sol vent
P . S . Reduction
P . S . Reduction
Lubri cant
Emu1 s i f i er/
Stabi 1 i zer
P art C:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl
D i sodi um EDTA 0.10 Chel ati ng Agent/
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben ( 5 ) 0.80 P reservati ve
Vi s cos i ty
Adjustment
(1) F i ns ol v TN (F i netex)
(2) P rocol OA-10 (Protameen Chemicals), B r i j 96 ( I C I )
(3) Protachem SMO (Protameen Chemicals), Span 80 ( I C I )
( 4 ) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(5) Germaben I I E (Sutton Laboratori es)
P reparat i on :
1 . Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
2. I n a separate vessel , combine a l l P art B i ngredi ents except
the enti r e formul ati on.
dimethicone and Pemulen. Heat t o 45-50C t o hasten di s s ol uti on
o f oxybenzone. Di sconti nue heati ng and add Pemulen. Mix t o
obtai n a smooth di spersi on. Add dimethicone.
3. Add P art B t o P art A wi th rapi d agi tati on. Continue mi xi ng
t o obtai n a smooth emulsion.
4 . Add P art C. Disodium EDTA should be added i ncremental l y
such that a Brookf i el d vi s cos i ty of 500-1000 cps i s achieved
(Model RVT @ 20 RPM, #2 s pi ndl e) .
Sprayer: Calmar Mark I 1
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co . : Formula PO012
538 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sprayable Sunscreen (SPF8)
I naredi ent: Wei qht%
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 84 . 20
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrol ysate
G1 ycer i n 2.00
(70% S ol uti on) 1 . 5 0
P art B:
Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate
Menthyl Anthrani l ate (1 )
C12-Cl5 Al cohol s Benzoate (2)
Pemulen TR-2 (3)
S orbi tan 01 eate
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
4 . 5 0
3 . 5 0
3 . 0 0
0 . 1 5
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 2
P art D:
P ropylene G1 ycol (and) Di azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methyl Paraben (and)
P ropyl Paraben (4) 0.90
Di sodi um EDTA 0. 03
F uncti on
Di 1 uent
Humectant
Humectant
UVB Absorber
UVA Absorber
Emol 1 i ent
Emu1 s i f i er
S urfactant
Neutral i z i ng
Agent
P reservati ve
Chel ati ng Agent
( 1 ) Sunarome UVA ( F el ton)
( 2) F i ns ol v TN (F i netex)
(3) Acrylates/ClO-C30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BF Goodrich)
( 4 ) Germaben I I E (Sutton)
P reparat i on :
1 . Combine P art A i ngredi ents . Mix u n t i l homogeneoous.
2. Combine P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel . Mi x we l l t o
ensure bl endi ng o f o i l s and break-up o f s of t powder lumps.
3. Wi th mi xi ng, add P art B t o P art A. Mi x 20-40 minutes or
u n t i l a smooth di spersi on i s apparent.
4 . Add tri ethanol ami ne (P art C) t o the emulsion. Mix vi gor-
ousl y t o thi cken and reduce o i l dropl et par t i c l e si ze.
5 . When emulsion i s smooth and opaque, add P art D. Mix f o r
5- 10 minutes. P art D i ngredi ents w i l l di s s ol ve and t hi n the
emulsion t o a sprayabl e vi s cos i ty.
Formula 700-21 3-6C
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Waterproof Sunscreen Emulsions
Sun Care Products 539
Sprayable Sunscreen
I nsredi ents: % by Weicaht
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 69.90
P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00
AMP-95 0. 15
Germaben 11- E 0. 70
P art 8:
F i nsol v TN 5. 00
Butyl S tearate 3.00
S orbi tan Ol eate 0 * 20
P ol ysorbate 80 0. 10
Pemulen TR-2 0.20
P art C :
T i ovei l OP 15. 00
Capmul 1OG-10-0 0. 50
P art D:
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 10
Sodium Chl ori de 0. 15
Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n the mi xi ng vessel a t room
temperature. S eparatel y combine P art B i ngredi ents, di spersi ng
Pemulen compl etel y. Add P art B t o P art A wi th rapi d agi tati on.
Separatel y combine P art C, then sl owl y add t o the P art A/ B
emulsion wi th moderate agi tati on. Add P art D wi th moderate
agi tati on t o lower l oti on vi s cos i ty.
Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12)
Thi s smooth l oti on contai ns no "chemical" absorbers and del
ers uni form, non-chalky protecti on. Pemulen TR-1 ensures hi gh
s t a b i l i t y and al l ows easy spreadi ng o f the l oti on.
I nnredi ents: % by Weight
P art A:
Deionized water 67. 80
P ropylene Gl ycol 5.00
Benecel MP943PR 0. 10
AMP-95 0.25
D i sodi um EDTA 0. 05
Germaben 11- E 0.30
P art B:
F i nsol v TN 3. 00
Ceraphyl 424 4. 00
Butyl S tearate 3.00
S orbi tan Ol eate 0. 10
Pemulen TR-1 0.20
Carbopol 2984 0.20
P art C :
T i ovei l OP 15.00
V-
Capmul 10G-10-0 0. 20
Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n the
enti r e formul ati on. Heat t o 50C. I n a separate vessel , combine
P art B i ngredi ents. Heat t o 5OC. Usi ng rapi d agi tati on, add P art
B t o P art A. Mix t o form a smooth, vi scous emulsion. Using moder-
ate agi tati on, sl owl y add P art C t o the emulsion. Sl owl y cool
l oti on usi ng conti nued moderate agi tati on.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary: Formula
PF-O242E/Formula PF-0243E suggested by BF Goodrich
540 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sprayable Sunscreen Based on TiO2
I naredi ent : Weight% F uncti on
P art A:
Deionized Water 69.90 Di 1 uent
P ropylene Gl ycol 5. 00 Humectant
Ami nomethyl Propanol 0.15 Neutral i z er
P ropylene Gl ycol and Di az ol i di nyl 0 I 70 P reservati ve
Urea and Methylparaben and P ropyl -
paraben ( 1)
P art B:
Mi neral O i l ( 2)
Butyl S tearate ( 3)
S orbi tan Ol eate
P ol ysorbate 80
Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 )
P art C :
Octyl P al mi tate (and) Ti tani um
P ol ygl yceryl - 10 Decaoleate (6)
P art D:
Di sodi um EDTA
Sodium Chl ori de
Di oxi de ( 5)
5. 00 Emol 1 i ent
3.00 Emol 1 i ent
0. 20 P . S . Reduction
0. 10 P . S . Reduction
0.20 E mul s i f i er
15. 00 Acti ve
0. 50 D i spersant
0. 10 Chel ati ng Agent
0. 08 Vi s cos i ty Red-
uci ng Agent
(1) Germaben 11-E (S utton)
(2) Drakeol 19 (Penreco)
(3) (Amerchol )
( 4 ) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (EFGoodrich)
( 5) T i ovei l OP (Ti oxi de Chemicals)
(6) Capmul 10G-10-0 (Karlshamns)
P reparati on P rocedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n the mi xi ng vessel a t room
2. Separatel y combine P art B i ngredi ents, di spersi ng Pemul en
3. Add P art B t o P art A wi th rapi d agi tati on.
4 . Separatel y combine P art C, then sl owl y add t o the P art A/B
5. Rapi dl y agi tate (2000 rpm) wi th a mari ne- type bl ade f o r
6. Add P art D wi th moderate agi tati on t o lower l oti on vi s cos i ty.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Formula PO040
temperature.
compl etel y.
emulsion wi th moderate agi tati on.
20 mi nutes.
Sun Care Products 541
Sun Block Lotion
(Formula 92-0511)
P art A:
D. I. Water
G l ycer i n
Veegum F
Rhodigel E2
P art 8:
M i r as i 1 DM300
Cetyl Al cohol NF
Dermalcare GMS/SE
I sopropyl Myri s tate
P art C:
Octyl Dimethyl PABA
Syntase 62
% Bv Weinht
70.40
4.65
1.50
0.15
2. 95
3. 10
3.00
3.25
7. 00
3.00
P art D:
Fragrance, Dye(s), P reservati ve Q. S .
Bl endi ng Procedure Step 1 ( P art A) :
Charge water i nt o mi xi ng vessel and add gl yceri n wi th mi xi ng.
P reblend Veegum F and Rhodigel EZ and, wi th good agi tati on,
sl owl y s i f t t h i s bl end i nt o the water/ gl yceri n s ol uti on.
Mix u n t i l smooth wi th no par ti c l es apparent, then begi n heati ng
t o 70C.
Step 2 (P art B):
Charge P art B components i nt o a vessel and heat wi th gentl e
mi xi ng t o 70-75C, bei ng sure a l l components are mel ted.
Step 3:
When both parts are a t 70C, add P art B t o P art A, wi th good
mi xi ng, and mix f i f t e e n minutes a t 70C. Af ter emulsion i s
homogeneous, begi n cool i ng wi th moderate agi tati on.
Step 4 (P art C ) :
Premix the two components of P art C, heati ng very gentl y i f
necessary, t o obtai n a cl ear s ol uti on.
Step 5:
When product reaches 55C, add P art C and conti nue t o cool . wi th
agi t a t i on.
Step 6:
A t 40C, add remainder o f components and cool , wi th agi tati on
25C.
Typi cal F ormul ati on P roperti es
Appearance a t 25C L t , ye1 1 ow/bei ge 1 o t
PH (10%) 7. 3
t o
on
Vi s cos i ty a t 25C (RVT #5 @ 20 rpm)
CTFA I denti f i cati on
Water, gl yceri n, i sopropyl myri state, c etyl al cohol , gl yceryl
stearate SE, dimethicone, magnesium aluminum s i l i c ate, xanthan
gum.
Acti ve i ngredi ents: Padimate 0, Oxybenzone
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formula 92-0511
14,000 cps
542 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Suncare Product with Titanium Dioxide
I naredi ents: % by Weiuht
A. Crodamol PMP 2.00
Crodarnol W 3.00
F l ui l an 2.00
Crodacol S-95 0.25
C r i l l 3 0. 75
Crodarom Nuto 0 2.50
Crodarom Rhatania 0 2.50
B. Dei oni zed water 72.55
Carbomer 2984 0.20
Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acetate Cross Polymer 0.20
Crodesta F-160 1 .50
G1 ycer i n 5.00
Na2EDTA 0 . 0 5
C . AMP-95 0. 25
Water (and) Ti tani um Di oxi de 6. 25
D. P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Di ssol ve the Na2EDTA o f par t 8 i n dei oni zed water. Di sperse
Carbomer 2984 and Pemulen TR-1 i nt o the water o f P art B. Di sperse
Crodesta F-160 i n gl yceri n, then add t o the Carbomer/Pemulen
di spersi on wi th good mi xi ng, Heat P art B t o 75-8OC. Combine
i ngredi ents o f P art A wi th good mi xi ng and heat t o 75-8OC. Add
P art A t o P art B w i t h good mi xi ng. Neutral i z e w i t h the AMP-95
o f P art C and s t i r u n t i l uni form. S l owl y add T i ovei l Al l wi th
conti nui ng s t i r r i ng. Cool t o 40C and add P art D. Cool t o
desi red f i l l temperature. F ormul ati on PF-0321 suggested by Croda
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen
Methyl Paraben (and) P ropyl Paraben 1 .oo
Thi s smooth l oti on contai ns no "chemical" absorbers and
del i vers uni form, non-chalky protecti on. Pemulen TR-1 ensures
hi gh s t a b i l i t y and al l ows easy spreadi ng of the l oti on. SPF=12.
I naredi ents: % bv Weisht
A. Dei oni zed water 67.80
P ropylene G1 ycol 5.00
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose 0.10
AMP-95 0.25
Di sodi um EDTA 0 . 0 5
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben 0. 30
8 . C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate 3. 00
Butyl S tearate 3.00
Myri sty1 Myri s tate 4.00
S orbi tan 01 eate 0.10
Pemulen TR-1 0.20
Carbopol 2984 0.20
C . Octyl P al mi tate (and) Ti tani um Di oxi de 15.00
P ol ygl yceryl - 10 Decaoleate 1. 00
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n the
enti r e formul ati on, Heat t o 50C. 2. I n a separate vessel , combine
P art B i ngredi ents. Heat t o 50C. 3. Usi ng rapi d agi tati on, add
P art B t o P art A . Mix t o form a smooth, vi scous emulsion.
4. Using moderate agi tati on, sl owl y add P art C t o the emulsion
Sl owl y cool l oti on usi ng conti nued moderate agi tati on.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Formula PF-0323 from B.F.Goodrich
Sun Care Products 543
Sun Protection Gel, Approx. SPF8
An ef f ec ti ve sun protecti on gel es peci al l y f o r s ens i ti ve and
a1 1 ergi c s ki n.
I ns redi ents : Q/~ bv Weight
P art A:
Water 60. 60
P art 8:
Carbomer 980 (Carbopol 980) 1. 20
P art C:
Ethanol , 98% denatured 5. 00
Benzophenone-4 (Uvi nul MS 40) 3.00
P art D:
2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic aci d (Eusolex 232) 3.00
Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane ( T r i s Amino) 4. 00
Water 20.00
Tetrasodium EDTA ( T r i l on B l i qui d) 0. 30
I mi daz ol i di nyl urea (and) tr i ethyl ene gl ycol (and)
methylparaben (and) propyl paraben (and) dehydro-
aceti c aci d (Neo-Dragoco L i qui d) 0.40
Al oe vera gel concentrate, 10/ 1 0. 50
d-Panthenol 0. 50
P art E :
Fragrance 0. 20
Bi sabol ol (Dragosantol ) 0 . 1 0
Emulsi f i er 1. 20
Procedure:
Di ssol ve B i n A usi ng an ul tr a- tur r ax s t i r r e r . Add C . Bl end
D and E; add t o ABC. The pH-value i s 6. 8. The pH shoul d not be
over 7 or product coul d have a s trong yel l ow col or .
F ormul ati on PF-0271E suggested by Dragoco
Waterproof Aerosol-Sunscreen (SPF10)
I ngredi ents : % by Weiaht
SD Al cohol 40 43.65
AMP-95 0.35
Dermacryl 2, oo
Dei on1 zed water 9.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7 . 5 0
Menthyl Anthrani l ate 4. 00
Cyclomethicone 3. 00
Tocopheryl Acetate 0 . 5 0
Dimethyl E ther 30. 00
Procedure:
s i f t i n Dermacryl-79. Mix unt i l complete. Add r es t except Di -
methyl ether. Continue mi xi ng unt i l complete. F i l t e r , f i l l and
charge wi th di methyl ether.
F ormul ati on PF-0318 suggested by Nati onal S tarch and Chemical
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus P roduct Formulary
Combine SD al cohol 40 wi th AMP-95. Wi th good agi tati on, s l owl y
544 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Containing
Emollient Cream
Deionized Water
Pecosi 1 WDS-200 (Di methi cone Copol yo1 Phosphate)
Carbomer 934 (290 Aq. )
P ropylene G1 ycol
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Pelemol GS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Pelemol 2022 (Octyl dodecyl Behenate)
Macadamia Nut O i l
Cetearyl Al cohol
Pelemol BB (Behenyl Behenate)
P ropylene G l ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
37.00%
3.00
25. 00
5 . 0 0
1 . oo
7 I 50
2.00
4.00
10. 00
2. 00
2. 00
0. 50
1 . oo
P rocedure:
Heat phase _A t o 70-75C. Heat phase B t o 70-75C. Agi tate
both phase A and B u n t i l uni form. Under homogenization add
phase t o phase A. When uni form, change t o prop. agi tati on
and cool t o 45C. Add phase C t o @, and conti nue prop.
agi tati on t o 35C.
Formula 14-1 09-A
Sunscreen Lotion
Deionized Water
Pecosi 1 WDS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate)
Carbomer 934 (2% Aq.)
P ropylene G1 ycol
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Pelemol GS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
Meadowfoam Seed O i l
Pelemol I SL ( I s os tearyl L actate)
Macademia Nut O i l
Cetearyl Al cohol
Pel emol BB (Behenyl Behenate)
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
37. 30%
3. 00
25.00
5. 00
0 I 70
7. 50
2. 00
4. 00
10. 00
2. 00
2. 00
0 I 50
1 . oo
P rocedure:
I . Heat phase A t o 70-75C. 2. Heat phase t o 70-75C.
3. Af ter both phases are uni form, homogenize phase i n t o phase
4. 4. Swi tch t o sweep agi tati on and cool t o 45C. 5. Add
phase C t o A.W, and conti nue sweep agi tati on t o 35C.
Formula 14-1 07-A
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Sun Care Products 545
Sunscreen Cream
Approximate S.P.F.
3 4 6 8
I ngredi ent:
%w/w
1 Cuti na MD 7.0 7. 0 7.0 7.0
2 S i pol 16-18 C50 2. 0 2.0 2. 0 2. 0
3 Eumulgin 62 3. 0 3.0 3.0 3. 0
4 Eutanol G 3.0 3. 0 3.0 3.0
5 C eti ol SN 7. 0 7. 0 7.0 7.0
6 C eti ol SB45 5. 0 5. 0 5 . 0 5. 0
7 Eusolex 6300 0.75 - 0.37 0.75
8 Eusolex 232 - 0.75 0.37 0.75
9 Sodium Hydroxide - 0.208 0.10 0. 208
10 Hygroplex HHG CLR 4.0 4. 0 4 . 0 4 . 0
1 1 P reservat i ve q . s .
12 Water t o 100.0
ur i s i ng O/W creams wi th ef f ec ti ve UV P rotecti on. The f i r s t seven
components are heated together t o 85C. Component ni ne i s added
t o the water and t h i s mi xture i s al s o heated t o 85C a t which
poi nt component ei ght i s s t i r r ed i n and neutral i zed. The o i l
phase i s then mixed i nt o the water phase and di spersed. Component
ten can be i ncorporated whi l s t the temperature i s s t i l l hi gh.
Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 269
These formul ati ons gi ve non-greasy, s o f t consi stency, moi st-
After-Sun Lotion
I ngredi ent: %w/w
1 Cuti na MD 3. 5 ~.
2 Stenol 16-65 1.5
3 C eti ol MM 4. 0
4 Eumulgin 82 1. 5
5 Eutanol G 5. 0
6 Myr i tol 318 5. 0
7 I rgasan DP300 0. 1
8 Zi nc Carbonate-Basic 5 . 0
9 Nutr i l an L 10.0
10 Repair Complex CLR 3. 0
11 P reservati ve 9 . s .
12 Water t o 100.0
Thi s f ormul ati on gi ves a pal e brown, hi gh vi s cos i ty, medium
weight O/W l o t i o n which has a soothi ng, as tri ngent ef f ec t on
s ki n.
The f i r s t seven components are heated together t o 85C.
Component ei ght i s then di spersed i n the hot molten o i l . The
water i s al s o heated t o 85C. The o i l phase i s then mixed i nt o
the water phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng should conti nue down t o about 35C a t which poi nt
the remai ni ng i ngredi ents can be i ncorporated.
Formula TS 285
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
546 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
I Cuti na MD
Eumulgin B1
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
Carrot o i l CLR
P arsol MCX
Water
I 1 Eusolex 161, water- sol ubl e
Formula No. Ell-01
Sun Screen Cream W/O
I Dehymuls K
C eti ol V
P arsol MCX
I 1 Water
Formula No. Ell-02
Sun Screen Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata AB
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P arsol MCX
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Formula No. 11-03
Sun Screen Cream W/O
I Dehymuls F
Novata A B
C eti ol V
Vegetable o i 1
Vasel i ne, whi te
P araf f i n o i l , l ow vi scous
P arsol MCX
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Magnesium sul fate- 7- hydrate
Water
Formula No. E 11-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Qm
16.0
3.0
10.0
5.0
3.0
2.0
2.0
59.0
30.0
15.0
3.0
52.0
46w/w
8. 0
4.0
8.0
8.0
10. 0
3.0
3.0
0.3
55.7
8.0
4.0
5.0
5.0
10.0
6.0
3.0
3.0
0.3
55.7
Sun Screen Cream O/W
Sun Care Products 547
Sun Scr een Emul si on O/W, L i q u i d
I Cut i na MD
Lanet t e 0
Eumul gi n 61
Eumul gi n 62
Ri l ani t GMO
Eut anol G
Par af f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
Cet i ol 5600
Par sol 1789
Par sol MCX
I 1 Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
f or mul a No. 21-02
Wat er
Sun Screen Emulsion O/W, Liquid
I Cut i na CBS
Eumul gi n B1
Eumul gi n B2
Ri l ani t GMO
Eut anol G
Par af f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
Cet i ol 5600
Par sol 1789
Par sol MCX
Wat er
I 1 Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
For mul a No. E21- 03
Sun Screen Emulsion O/W, Liquid
Cut i na MD
Lanet t e 0
Eumul gi n 62
Cut i na E24
Ri l ani t GMO
Eut anol G
Par af f i n oi l , hi gh vi scous
Cet i 01 5600
Par sol 1769
Par sol MCX
Henkel Gl ycer i n 86% DAB 9
Wat er
For mul a No. E21- 04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmet i c Model For mul ae
5 . 0
2.0
1. 5
1. 5
0 . 5
8 . 0
4. 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
4.0
5 . 0
6 0 . 5
SWLW
9. 0
1.5
1. 5
0. 5
8 . 0
4. 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
4. 0
5 . 0
5 8 . 5
Hi !
5. 0
2. 0
2 . 0
2 . 0
0 . 5
8 . 0
4. 0
6 . 0
2 . 0
4. 0
5 . 0
59. 5
548 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Screen Emulsion O/W with Repellent, Liquid
I Cuti na MO
S i egert S teari n L2 SM
Eumulgin 81
C eti ol V
Myri tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Repel l ent 790
I 1 Eusolex 161, water- sol ubl e
Tri ethanol ami ne
Veegum s ol uti on 4%
Water
Formula No. E23-01
Sun Screen Oil
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
Carrot o i l CLR
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Parso
Formu
Cet i o
MCX
a E31-01
Sun Screen Oil
LC
Myri tol 318
Eutanol G
P arsol MCX
Formula No. E31-02
Eutanol G
Myri tol 318
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P arsol MCX
Repel 1 ent 790
E thyl al cohol 96%
Formula No. E31-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
%w/w
3. 0
2. 0
3. 0
10.0
4. 0
4. 0
10.0
2. 0
0. 2
40.0
21 . 8
%w/w
50. 0
26.0
2. 0
20.0
2. 0
e
20.0
40. 0
38.0
2. 0
%w/w
30.0
27.0
20. 0
3. 0
10.0
10.0
Sun Screen Oil with Repellent
Sun Care Products 549
Sunscreen Lotion w/UV-Titan M212
I naredi ents: m
UV-Titan Premix 7-95-A:
UV-Titan M212 40.00
Pecosi 1 WDS-I 00 60.00
Premix shoul d be mixed usi ng a hi gh shear mi xer/ i mpel l er,
i . e . , S i l verson f or 5 minutes at 4000 rpm.
Phase A :
D. I . Water 64.25
Glucam E-20 2. 50
G1 ucamate SSE-20 0. 75
UV-Titan Premix 12.50
Phase 0 :
OH1 an 3.00
Gl ucate SS 4.00
R i tachol 5.00
P elox P3M 5.00
Wi tconol APM 3.00
Phase C :
Germaben I 1 1 . oo
Fragrance 0. 25
Procedure:
Heat Phase A t o 72C. Heat Phase B t o 75C, add B t o A, mix
wel l , pass through c ol l oi d m i l l f or 5 minutes or u n t i l com-
pl etel y reci rcul ated, begi n cool i ng t o room temperature and
check sample f or di spersi on. Adj ust pH t o 5.5-6.0 wi th Phos-
phori c Aci d 10% Sol ' n.
I ngredi ents: %Qty I
UV- Ti tan 7-95-8:
UV-Titan M262 40.00
Pecosi 1 PS-100 60.00
Premix should be m i xed usi ng a hi gh shear mi xer / i mpel 1 er ,
i . e . , S i l verson f o r 5 minutes a t 4000 r p m.
Sunscreen Lotion w/UV-Titan M262
Phase A :
D . I . Water
Glucam E-20
Glucamate SSE-20
Phase B:
OH1 an
Gl ucate SS
R i tachol
Pelox P3M
Witconol APM
UV-Ti tan Premix
Phase C:
Germaben I 1
Fragrance
64.25
2. 50
0. 75
3.00
4.00
5. 00
5. 00
3.00
12.50
1. 00
0. 25
Procedure:
Heat Phase A t o 72C. Heat Phase B t o 75C, add 0 t o A, mix
wel l , pass through c ol l oi d m i l l f or 5 mi nutes or u n t i l compl etel y
reci rcul ated, begi n cool i ng t o room temperature and check sample
f o r di spersi on. Adj ust pH t o 5. 5 t o 6.0 wi th P hosphoric Aci d
10% Sol ' n.
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc. /P resperse, I ncn:7-97-A/7-97-0
550 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Screen Stick with Total Light Protection (Sun Blocker)
Cuti na LM
C eti ol 3600
Eutanol G
P arsol 1789
P arsol MCX
Ti tani um di oxi de
Tal cum
S ki n col ored pigments
Formula No. E41-03
P arts
70. 0
7.0
8. 0
1 . o
5. 0
6. 0
7. 0
2.0
Lipstick with Light Protection
Cuti na LM
C eti ol 868
C eti ol J 600
Eusolex 8021
Formula No. E41-04
Lipstick with Light Protection
Cuti na LM
C eti ol 868
C eti ol 5600
Eusolex 8021
Formula No. E41-05
Sun Screen Spray Aerosol-Packed
Eutanol G
Vegetable o i 1
P araf f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
P arsol MCX
F i l l i ng: 50 parts s ol uti on
Formula No. E71-01
50 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
Sun Screen Spray Low-Fat Aerosol-Packed
Eutanol G
P arsol MCX
I sopropyl al cohol
F i l l i n g : 50 parts s ol uti on
Formula No. E71-03
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
50 parts propel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
P arts
81.0
10. 0
5 . 0
4.0
P arts
80.0
8 . 0
4. 0
8. 0
%w/w
55. 0
20.0
23. 0
2. 0
36w/w
25.0
2. 0
73. 0
Sun Care Products 551
Sun Shield Day Cream
A l i ght , pl easant cream. Appl i es eas i l y and i s qui ckl y
absorbed i nt o the s ki n. Of f ers medium sun- protecti on whi l e
keeping the s ki n s of t and moi sturi zed. I deal as a s ki n cond-
i ti oner f o r men who enj oy out- of- doors ac ti vi ti es .
A. Mink O i l (Emulan, L i ght F racti on)
Gl yceryl S tearate (and) PEG 100 S tearate
Cetyl R i ci nol eate (Cas Chem, Nature Chem CR)
S teari c Aci d TP
Cetyl Al cohol
Octyl Dimethyl PABA (Van Dyk, E scal ol 507)
P ropyl Paraben
B. Methyl Paraben
T r i ethanol ami ne 99%
PEG-8 (UCC, Carbowax 400)
Quaternium 26 (Van Dyk, Ceraphyl 65)
Water
( I C I , Arl acel 165)
Wt.%
5.00
4.00
1 . oo
2.00
0. 50
3.00
0.15
0. 20
0. 50
5.00
1 . oo
77.65
Procedure:
Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A vi a propel l or agi tati on.
Cool t o 45C before adding Phase C .
PABA Free Sunscreen Lotion
A low i r r i t a t i o n , non-greasy l oti on f or s ens i ti ve ski ns. Has
ef f ec ti ve sun protecti on (SPF about IO) and thus protects agai nst
photo-aging. May be used as an under make-up moi s turi z er.
A . Water
Carbomer 941 (Goodrich, Carbopol 941)
P ropylene G1 ycol USP
Disodium Cocamido MIPA S ul fosucci nate
(Wi tco, Emcol 41 61 L )
B. Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 345 F l ui d)
Mink O i l (Emulan, L i ght F racti on)
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Van Dyk, E scal ol 557)
Menthyl Anthrani l ate (F el ton, Sunarome UVA)
Cetearyl Al cohol (and) Ceteareth-20
P henyl tri methi cone (Dow Corning, 556 F l ui d)
(Amerchol, Promulgen D)
C . Tri ethanol ami ne 99%
D. Germaben I 1 (S utton)
Perfume
Wt . %
65. 8
0. 2
2. 0
0. 5
10. 0
5. 0
7. 6
3. 5
3. 0
1 . o
0. 2
1 . o
0. 2
Procedure:
cool t o 45C before adding Phase D i ngredi ents.
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A, then add Phase C and s t i r -
552 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Tan Cream
Creamy s o f t . E as i l y spread, qui ckl y absorbed and l eaves a
s i l ky s of t f eel i ng on the s ki n.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Bel s i l DM 350/Dimethicone
I sopropyl Myri s tate
S tearyl Al cohol
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
2. 00%
9. 00
9. 50
0. 50
4. 00
P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 1 .50
B: Tri ethanol ami ne
Carbopol 934 (14bige Lsg.)/Carbomer 934
Water
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
1. 20
5. 00
67. 30
q. s .
Heat A and B each t o 70C, add P arsol MCX t o A . Mi x B i nt o A
whi l s t s t i r r i n g qui ckl y.
Tenmperature s t a b i l i t y : at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 130 AH
Sun Tan Cream
Creamy soft.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : B el s i l DM 350/Dimethicone
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
3.00%
2. 00
4. 00
P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2. 00
B: Gl yceri ne
Tri ethanol ami ne
Wasser dest./Water
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
2. 00
0. 90
86. 10
q. s .
Heat A and B t o 80C, m i x A i nt o B, cool whi l s t s t i r r i ng, a t
approx. 45C add P arsol MCX, s t i r col d.
F ormul ati on 133 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Su g g es t ed F ormul ati ons
Sun Care Products 553
Sun Tan Cream
Firm cream.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Crodawax GP 200/Stearyl Al cohol (and) PEG-Stearate 5. 00%
Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S tearate se 6. 00
B el s i l DM 35/Dimethicone
5.00
Eusolex 6300
3.00
8: Water 81 . O O
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances 9 , s .
Mel t A a t 70C, heat the water t o 70C. Work A i nt o B.
F ormul ati on 199 AH
Sun Tan Cream
Creamy soft.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: B el s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone
Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
Eusolex 6300
B: Gl yceri ne
T r i ethanol ami ne
Water
P reservat i ves, p i gments, fragrances
Heat A and B each t o 80C. Work B i nt o
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10
F ormul ati on 198 AH
qui ckl y, cool whi l s t s t i r r i ng.
3.00%
2. 00
4. 00
3. 00
2. 00
0. 90
85.10
q. s .
A whi l s t s t i r r i ng
weeks.
Sun Tan Cream
Creamy soft.
Mater i a1 /CTFA-I ndex :
A: B el s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone 3.00%
Cetyl Al cohol 2. 00
B: P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2. 00
B el s i l BNP/Boron Ni t r i de 1 . oo
C: Gl yceri ne 2. 00
Tri ethanol ami ne 0.90
Wasser dest. /Water 85.10
P reservati ves, fragrances, perfumes q. s .
Heat A and C t o 80C, s t i r A i nt o C , cool whi l s t s t i r r i ng.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C over 10 weeks.
Formul a t i on 133/2 AH
S teari c Aci d 4.00
Add B at approx. 45C, s t i r col d.
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
554 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Tan Lotion W/O
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Hostaceri n WO/Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiiostearate (and)
Beeswax (and) Mi neral Oi 1 (and) Magnesi um S tearate
(and) AlumTnum S tearate
B el s i l CM 040/Cyclomethicone
B el s i l PDM 20/Phenyl Dimethicone
B el s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone
I sopropyl Myri s tate
12.00%
25.00
6. 00
3. 00
3.50
B: Water 47. 50
C : P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxyci nnamate
P reservati ves, pigments, fragrances
3. 00
9 , s .
Mix A , heat the water t o 60C and s t i r i nt o A . Leave t o cool
somewhat, add P arsol MCX.
F ormul ati on 260 AH
Sun Tan Lotion
Mater 1 a1 ICTFA- I ndex :
A: Tegi naci d/ Gl yceryl S tearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6 . 00%
I sopropyl Myri s tate
1 . oo
B el s i l DM 350/Dimethicone
1 . oo
Mi neral O i 1, 1 ow vi s cos i ty
4.00
Lanette O/Cetearyl Al cohol
1 . oo
Bel s i 1 CM 1000/Cycolmethicone (and) Dimethiconol 10. 00
P arsol MCX/Octyl Methoxyci nnamate
3. 00
B : Water
Gl yceri ne
71 . 5 0
1 . 50
C: B el s i l BNP/Boron Ni t r i de 1 . oo
P reservati ves, fragrances, pigments 9 , s .
Heat A and B each t o 65-70C, s t i r B i nt o A, s t i r C i nt o AB.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks
F ormul ati on 913 AH
SOURCE: Wacker Silicone: Su g g es t ed F ormul ati ons
Sun Care Products 555
Suntan Lotion
Hi ghl y moi s turi z i ng s ki n care that af f ords natural s ki n
protecti on from Shebu, as wel l as UV sunscreening wi th ODP
I ngredi ents:
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
2. Acri tamer 934 (Carbomer 934)
3. Gl yceri ne
4. Xanthan Gum
5. Supersat (Hydrogenated L anol i n)
6. Shebu Refi ned (Shea Butter)
7. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl S tearate)
8. Mi neral O i l
9. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl
L actyl ate)
10. Ri ta S teari c Aci d
11 . Octyl Dimethyl PABA
12. Tri ethanol ami ne (50% S ol n. )
13. Fragrance
14, P reservati ve
%w/w
77.40
0.20
4.00
0. 10
0.50
2.00
1 .oo
7.00
2.00
2. 00
2. 00
1.80
q . s .
q . s .
Funct i on
S tabi 1 i zer,
Rheology
Emol 1 i ent
S tabi 1 i zer,
Thickener
F i l m Former
Emol 1 i ent
E mul s i f i er
Emol 1 i ent
Emul s i f i er ,
Humectant
Emul s i f i er
Sunscreen
Neutral i z er
Odor
P reservati ve
_ -_ _
Compounding Procedure:
i nt o 1, 2 . Heat t o 165F. Separatel y combine 5-11, heat t o 165F,
mix wel l and combine both phases. Neutral i z e wi th TEA (12). Cool
wi th mi xi ng t o 120F and add 13 & 14. Cool t o QOF. Package.
Ref. No. 118-70
Disperse 2 i n t o 1, hydrate 15 mi nutes. Add 4 t o 3 and di sperse
USFDA Standard SPF 4.11
Sunscreen Lotion
Reference: Federal Register 21 CFR 352 et.al.
Used as the standard t o which SPF determi nati on studi es may
be referenced.
I naredi ents:
1. L anol i n Ex Deo. USP
2. Homomenthyl Sal i cy1 ate
3. White P etrol atum USP
4. S teari c Aci d
5. P ropylparaben
6. Methylparaben
7. Na2 EDTA
8. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water
9. Tri ethanol ami ne 13 99%
10.P ropylene Gl ycol
Ref. No. 118-74
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp.: Sun Care Manual
%w/w R . I . T . A . P roducts
5. 00 (L anol i n USP)
8.00
2.50
4.00 ( R i ta S teari c
0. 05
0.10
0. 05
74.30
1 . oo
5. 00
Aci d)
556 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Suntan Lotion with UV Protection
E xcel l ent f eel and del i very o f UV protecti on wi th t h i s
Acri tamer/ stearate emulsion. Reduced i r r i tanc y.
I nqredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
2. Acri tamer 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.10 S tabi 1 i zer,
Rheology
3. P ropylene Gl ycol 3.00 E mol l i ent
4. R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 5.00 E mol l i ent
5. Ritaderm (R. I . T. A. Blend) 5.00 S tabi 1 i zer,
6. R i tacetyl (Acetyl ated L anol i n) 2.50 F i l m Former
7. R i tal an ( L anol i n O i l ) 1- 00 Emoll i ent
8. R i ta CA (Cetyl Al cohol ) 0.70 Thickener,
Opaci f i er
9. R i ta GMS (Gl yceryl Monostearate) 1 .50 E mul s i f i er
10. Ri ta S teari c A c i d 2.00 E mul s i f i er
11 . Mi neral O i 1 2.00 Emol 1 i ent
12. 0ctyl Dimethyl PABA 2. 50 Sunscreen
13. Tri ethanol ami ne (50% S ol n. ) 1 -60 Neutral i zer
14. Fragrance q . s . Odor
15. P reservati ve q . s . P reservati ve
Compounding Procedure:
Separatel y combine 4-13 and heat t o 165F, mix wel l . Combine
phases a t 165F, cool wi th mi xi ng t o 120F. Add 14 and 15, cool
t o 9OF. Package.
Ref. No. 118-79
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 73.10 ----
Emoll i ent
Di sperse 2 i nt o 1, hydrate 15 mi nutes. Add 3, heat t o 165F.
Coppertone Type Self Tanner
E ffi caceous s e l f tanni ng emulsion wi th excel l ent rub out
and smooth f eel .
I nnredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1. Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 81.00 ----
2. R i tal oe 200M (Al oe Vera Gel ) 1 . OO Condi ti oner
3. Ri tapro 300 (cetearyl Al cohol and
Ceteareth-20) 10.00 E mul s i f i er
4 . R i tal an C (I sopropyl P al mi tate and
L anol i n O i l ) 2.00 Emol 1 i ent
5. Dimethicone 0.75 Lubri cant
6. D i hydroxy Acetone 5.00 Tanning Agent
7. Germaben I 1 0. 25 P reservati ve
8. P atl ac LA ( L acti c Aci d 88%) q . s . pH Adjustment
Compounding P rocedure:
and heat t o l 65F . Combine phases wi th mi xi ng, cool t o 125F and
adj us t pH wi th 8 t o 5. 0(+- 0. 5). Add 6 and preserve. Cool t o
package.
Ref. No. 118-134
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Sun Care Manual
Di ssol ve 2 i nt o 1, heat t o 165F. Separatel y combine 3,4 and 5
Sun Care Products 557
Tanning Oil with Shebu
Hi ghl y emol l i ent o i l del i vers minimal sun Drotecti on. Al l ows
moi s tur i z ati on and permi ts tanni ng
I nqredi ents:
1. R i tal an C (I sopropyl P al mi tate and
L anol i n O i l )
2. Mi neral O i l
3. P ati oni c I SL (Sodium I sostearoyl
L actyl ate)
4. R i tacetyl (Acetyl ated L anol i n)
5. Shebu Refi ned (Shea Butter)
6. Ritaphenone-3 (Benzophenone-3)
7. P reservati ve
8 . Anti - Oxi dant
9. Fragrance
%w/w
7.00
84.85
2.00
1.75
2. 00
2. 00
0.10
0.30
q . s .
F uncti on
Em01 1 i ent
Base Emoll i ent
Emol 1 i ent
E mo l l i ent
E mol l i ent
Sunscreen
P reservati ve
Anti - 0xi dant
Odor
Compounding Procedure:
homogeneous (150F). Cool t o 120F. Add fragrance, cool and
package.
Ref. No. 118-8
Combine a l l i ngredi ents and gentl y warm wi th mi xi ng u n t i l
Moisturizing Suntan Oil
Coppertone Type
Coppertone type, hi gh moi s turi z ati on al l ows
wi th minimal sunscreen.
I naredi ents:
1. Mi neral O i l
2 . L anol i n USP
3. Cocobutter
4 . Coconut O i l
5. Simchin Refi ned (J oj oba O i l )
6. Sweet Almond O i l
7. Benzoic Aci d
8. Vi tami n E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
9. Ritaphenone 3 (Benzophenone-3)
10.BHT
1l . F ragrance
12.Dye
%w/w
92.41
1 . oo
1 .oo
1 . oo
1 . oo
1 . oo
0. 09
1 . oo
1 . oo
0.50
q . s .
9 . s .
deep tanni ng
F uncti on
Emoll i ent
Emol 1 i ent
Emoll i ent
Emol 1 i ent
Emol 1 i ent
Emol 1 i ent
P reservati ve
Anti - 0xi dant
Sunscreen
Anti - Oxi dant
Odor
Col or
Compounding Procedure:
and add Fragrance and Dye. Cool and package.
Ref. No. 118-136
SOURCE: R. I . T. A, Co r p . : Sun Care Manual
Combine a l l i ngredi ents (1-10) and warm t o 150F. Cool t o 120F
558 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
TiO2 Oil/Water Sunscreen Lotion
I ncreased ef f i cacy o f Ti 02. Unique emul s i f i cati on. High SPF
i s esti mated.
I naredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
1 . R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 4.00 Emol 1 i ent
2. Mi neral O i l 6.50 L ubri cant
3. Simchin (J oj oba O i l - Refi ned) 2.50 Emol 1 i ent
4. R i ta SA (S tearyl Al cohol ) 1 . OO Thickener
5. P etrol atum 2.00 Lubri cant
6. T i ovei l TG (Ti 02 Dispersed) 5. 00 Sunscreen
7. Gr i l l oten LSE 87K (Sucrose Cocoate) 0.10 E mul s i f i er
8. G r i l l oten PSE 141G (Sucrose S tearate) 6.00 E mul s i f i er
9. Gl ycerol 4.00 Emol 1 i ent
10. Natural E xtract DP (Tri methyl Gl yci ne) 0.20 A nti - I r r i tant
11.Ritapan DL (dl - P anthenol ) 0.80 Condi ti oner
13. T i ovei l AQ-G (Ti 02 Dispersed) 5. 00 Sunscreen
14. P reservati ve q. s . P reservat i ve
15. Fragrance q. s. Odor
Compounding Procedure:
wi th mi xi ng. Add 13 whi l e s t i l l warm (80C). Cool t o 25C wi th
mi xi ng. Add preservati ve and fragrance a t approxi matel y 35C.
Ref. No. 118-128
12. Di sti l l ed/ Dei oni zed Water 62.90 ----
Heat (1-6) and (7-12) separatel y t o 80C. Add (1-6) t o (7-12)
TiO2 Sunscreen
Smooth, non-whitening l o t i o n usi ng ti tani um di oxi de as an
acti ve UV sunscreen.
I naredi ents: %w/w F uncti on
2. Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940) 0.30 S tabi 1 i zer,
Rheology
3. P ropylene Gl ycol 2.00 Emoll i ent
4. Tetrasodium EDTA 0. 10 Chel ator
5. Mi neral O i l 7.50 Emoll i ent
6. R i ta IPM (I sopropyl Myri s tate) 5. 00 Emoll i ent
7. R i ta S teari c Aci d 3.00 Emoll i ent
8. Ri tachol 5000 (R. I . T. A. Blend) 1.50 E mul s i f i er
9. S i l i cone O i l 2.00 Lubri cant
1O.TEA (50% S ol n. ) 0.75 Neutral i z er
11. T i ovei l AQ (Ti 02 Dispersed) 12.50 Neutral i zer
12.Fragrance 0.20 Odor
13. P reservati ve 0.20 P reservati ve
Compounding Procedure:
t o 165F. S eparatel y combine 5-10, heat t o 165F and mix wel l .
Combine phases wi th mi xi ng and add I f . Conti nue mi xi ng and
cool i ng t o 120F. Add 12 and 13. Cool and package.
Ref. No. 118-118
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : Sun Care Manual
I , Di s ti l l ed/ Dei oni z ed Water 64.95 ----
Di sperse 2 i nt o 1 and hydrate 15 mi nutes. Add 3 and 4. Heat
Sun Care Products 559
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen
(SPF 12*)
Thi s smooth l oti on contai ns no "chemical" absorbers and
del i vers uni form, non-chalky protecti on. Pemulen TR-1 ensures
hi gh s t a b i l i t y and al l ows easy spreadi ng o f the l oti on.
I nqredi ent: Wei RhtW F uncti on
P art A:
Deionized Water 67.80 D i 1 uent
P ropylene G1 ycol 5. 00 Humectant
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose ( 1) 0. 10 Spreading ai d
Aminomethyl Propanol ( 2) 0.25 Neutral i zer
Di sodi um EDTA 0. 05 Chel a t i ng Agent
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl
Urea (and) Methylparaben (and)
P ropylparaben (3) 0.30 P reservati ve
P art B:
C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate (4)
Butyl S tearate (5)
Myri sty1 Myri s tate ( 6)
S orbi tan 01 eate
Pemulen TR-1 ( 7)
Carbopol 2984 (8)
3.00 Emol 1 i ent
3. 00 Emol 1 i ent
4.00 E mol l i ent
0. 10 P.S. Reduction
0.20 E mul s i f i er
0.20 Thickener
P art C :
Octyl P al mi tate (and) Ti tani um
P ol ygl yceryl - 10 Decaoleate ( I O) 1 . OO D i spersant
Di oxi de (9) 15.00 Acti ve
*C l i ni cal tes ti ng conducted by P roduct S afety Labs (FDA 21
CFR P art 352, Federal Regi ster, August 25, 1978).
(1) 8enecel MP943R (Aqualon)
(2) AMP-95 (Angus Chemical)
(3) Germaben 11- E (S utton)
(4) F i nsol v TN (F i netex)
( 5 ) (Amerchol)
(6) Ceraphyl 424 (Van Dyk)
( 7) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
(8) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(9) T i ovei l OP (Ti oxi de Chemicals)
(10)Capmul 10G-10-0 (Karlshamns)
P reparati on Procedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
2. I n a separate vessel , combine P art 8 i ngredi ents. Heat t o 50C.
3. Using rapi d agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix t o form a
4. Using moderate agi tati on, sl owl y add P art C t o the emulsion.
the enti r e formul ati on. Heat t o 50C
smooth, vi scous emulsion.
Sl owl y cool l oti on usi ng conti nued moderate agi tati on.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co,: Formula PO030
560 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen
With Pemulen TR-1 & Carbopol Ultrez 10
Estimate SPF-18
Thi s smooth l o t i o n contai ns no "chemical" absorbers and
del i vers uni form, non-chalky, water- proof protecti on. Pemulen
TR-1 ensures hi gh s t a b i l i t y and al l ows easy spreadi ng o f the
l o t i on.
I ngredi ents:
A . Dei oni zed water
B.
C .
D.
D i sodi um EDTA
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose
AMP-95
P ropylene Gl ycol
C12-15 A1 coho1 s Benzoate
Butyl S tearate
Myri sty1 Myri s tate
S orbi tan 01 eate
Pemulen TR-1
Carbopol Ul trez 10
P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and)
Octyl P al mi tate (and) Ti tani um Di oxi de
P ol ygl yceryl - 10 Decaoleate
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
% bv Weiqht
67.10
0. 05
0. 10
0. 25
5.00
3.00
3. 00
4. 00
0. 10
0. 20
0.20
1 . oo
15. 00
1. 00
P roperti es:
pH: 6.2-6.8
Vi scosi ty* (cP s): 32,000-38,000
Col or, odor, appearance: White, thi c k, creamy emulsion
*Brookfi el d RVT @ 20rpm, 25C, #6 spi ndl e
Procedure:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e formul ati on. Heat t o 50C.
2. I n a separate vessel , combine f i r s t f our P art B i ngredi ents.
Af ter mi xture i s uni form, di sperse res i ns . Mix u n t i l uni form
3. Usi ng rapi d agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A . Mix t o form a
smooth, vi scous emulsion.
4 . Combine P art D i ngredi ents and mix we1 1.
5. Add P art C t o batch.
6. Using moderate agi tati on, sl owl y add P art D t o the emul-
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary:
si on. S l owl y cool l o t i o n usi ng conti nued moderate agi tati on.
F ormul ati on PF-0345 suggested by B.F, Goodrich
Sun Care Products 561
Transparent Sun-Block Cream
I ngredi ent:
1 Monomuls 90-0 18
2 Lameform TGI
3 C eti ol A
4 S i pol 1618 C50
5 Beeswax
6 Zi nc stearate
7 T i ovei l TG
8 Magnesi um sul phate
9 Gl yceri ne
10 P reservati ve
11 Water
%w/w
2.0
4.0
10.0
1 . o
3. 0
2. 0
10.0
1 . o
3. 0
q . s
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves qui te a heavy W/O cream wi th good
emol l i ence and hi gh UV P rotecti on (SPF approx. 12).
The f i r s t seven components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 8 and 9 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The
water phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C. The product must then
be homogenised usi ng, f o r example, a T r i pl e R ol l M i l l .
Formula TS 475
Transparent Sunblock Cream
I naredi ent:
1 Dehymuls FCE
2 Lameform TGI
3 S i pol 16-18 C50
4 C eti ol A
5 Beeswax
6 Zi nc S tearate
7 T i ovei l TG
8 Magnesi um Sul phate
9 Gl yceri ne
10 P reservati ve
11 Water
%w/w
2. 0
4 . 0
I . o
10.0
3.0
2. 0
10.0
1 . o
3. 0
q. s .
t o 100.0
The f i r s t seven components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 8 & 9 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The water
phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed. Mi xi ng
should conti nue down t o about 35C. The product shoul d then be
homogenised by, f o r example, a T r i pl e R ol l M i l l .
Formula TS 488
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S ki n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
562 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12)
Thi s smooth l o t i o n contai ns no "chemical" absorbers and
del i ver s uni form, non-chal ky protecti on. Pemulen TR-1 ensures
hi gh s t a b i l i t y and al l ows easy spreadi ng o f the l o t i o n.
I nqredi ents : % by Weiqht
P art A :
Dei oni zed water 67.80
P ropylene G1 ycol 5. 00
Benecel MP943PR 0. 10
AMP-95 0.25
D i sodi urn EDTA 0. 05
Germaben 11- E 0.30
P art 8 :
F i ns ol v TN 3. 00
Ceraphyl 424 4.00
Butyl S tearate 3. 00
S orbi tan Ol eate 0. 10
Pemulen TR-1 0. 20
Carbopol 2984 0.20
P art C :
Octyl P al mi tate (and) T i tani um T i ovei 1 OP 15.00
Capmul 10G-10-0 0. 20
Procedure:
Combine P art A i ngredi ents i n a vessel which w i l l contai n
the enti r e f ormul ati on. Heat t o 50C. I n a separate vessel ,
combine P art B i ngredi ents . Heat t o 50C. Usi ng r api d agi tati on,
add P art B t o P art A . Mi x t o form a smooth, vi scous emulsion.
Using moderate agi tati on, s l owl y add P art C t o the emulsion.
Sl owl y cool l o t i o n usi ng conti nued moderate agi tati on.
SOURCE: Angus Chemical C or: Angus P roduct Formulary: Formula-
t i o n PF-0243E suggested by B.F. Goodrich
Sun Tan Cream
Creamy soft.
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A : Cetyl Al cohol
S teari c Aci d
Eusolex 4360/Benzophenone-3
Eusolex 8020
B: Gl yceri ne
Tri ethanol ami ne
Water
P reservati ves, perfume, pigments
Heat A and B t o 80C. S t i r B i nt o A . S t i r unt i l cool .
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: a t 45C more than 9 weeks.
C: B el s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.)Dimethiconol
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: F ormul ati on 740 AH
2. 00%
4. 00
1.50
1 . 50
2. 00
0. 90
78.10
10.00
q. s .
Sun Care Products 563
Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)
I naredi ent: Weiaht%
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 72.75
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose ( 1) (1% s ol uti on) 10.00
Quaternium-15 (2) 0.15
Di sodi um EDTA 0.05
P art 8:
Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate
Octyl Sal i cy1 ate
Oxybenzone
C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate
Pemulen TR- I ( 4)
Carbopol 954 (5)
Methylparaben
P ropylparaben
P art C :
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
7.00
3. 00
2.00
4. 00
0.25
0. 20
0.15
0. 05
0.40
Procedure:
1 ) Combine P art A i ngredi ents. Mix u n t i l homogeneous.
2) Combine f i r s t four par t B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel .
Mi x u n t i l oxybenzone has di ssol ved. Warming w i l l hasten
di s s ol uti on.
3) Di sperse l a s t four P art B i ngredi ents i n P art B vessel .
Mix t o break-up lumps.
4) Wi th moderate agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A. Mix f o r 20-40
minutes or u n t i l a smooth, non- grai ny di spersi on i s apparent.
Add P art C (tri ethanol ami ne) and mix vi gorousl y u n t i l a
smooth, l us trous product i s obtai ned.
( 1) Methocel E4M (Dow)
(2) Dowi ci l 200 (Dow)
( 3) F i nsol v TN (F i netex)
(4) Acrylates/ClO-30 Al kyl Acryl ate Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich)
( 5) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co. : Formula PO008
564 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)
I nnredi ent: Wei aht% F uncti on
P art A:
Dei oni zed Water 72.75 D i 1 uent
Hydroxypropyl Methyl cel l ul ose ( 1) 10.00 Aqueous Smooth-
Quaternium-15 ( 2) 0.15 P reservati ve
D i sodi um EDTA
0.05 Chel ati ng Agent
( 1 ,090 S ol uti on) i ng Ai d
P art B:
Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate
Octyl Sal i cy1 ate
Oxybenzone
C12-CI5 Al cohol s Benzoate (3)
Pemulen TR-1 (4)
Carbopol 2984 (5)
Methyl Paraben
P ropyl Paraben
P art C:
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
7.00
3. 00
2.00
4. 00
0. 25
0.20
0. 15
0.05
UVB Absorber
UVB Absorber
UVA Absorber
Emol 1 i ent/Sol -
Emu1 s i f i er
Thickener
P reservat i ve
P reservati ve
vent
0.40 Neutral i z i ng
Agent
( 1) Methocel E4M (Dow)
(2) Dowi ci l 200 (Dow)
( 3) F i nsol v TN (F i netex)
(4) Acryl ates/CIO-C30 A1 kyl Acryl ate Crosspol ymer (BFGoodri ch)
(5) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
P reparati on:
1. Combine P art A i ngredi ents. Mix u n t i l homogeneous.
2. Combine f i r s t f our P art B i ngredi ents i n a separate vessel .
Mix u n t i l oxybenzone has been di ssol ved. Warming w i l l hasten
di s s ol uti on.
3. Di sperse l a s t f our B i ngredi ents i n P art B vessel . Mi x t o
break-up 1 umps.
4. Wi th vi gorous agi tati on, add P art B t o P art A . Mi x f or 20-40
minutes or unt i l a smooth, non-grainy di spersi on i s apparent.
Add P art C (tri ethanol ami ne) and mix u n t i l a smooth, l us t-
rous product i s obtai ned.
Formula 700-202-49F
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: Waterproof Sunscr een Emulsions
Sun Care Products 565
Waterproof Sunscreen with Ultrafine TiO2
Easy-to-blend o/w cream yi el ds a nontacky, waterproof, o i l -
proof f i ni s h. Hydrophobi c/l i pophobi c treatment on the Ti 02 f o r
easi er di spersi on al s o provents it from des tabi l i z i ng the
emulsion.
I nqredi ents: % bv Weiaht
A . Dei oni zed water 60.80
P ropylene gl ycol 5 . 0 0
Benecel 0. 10
AMP-95 0. 25
Versene 0. 05
Germabe'n I I E 0.30
B. Ceraphyl 424 4.00
Acrylates/ClO-30 al kyl acryl ate crosspolymer 0.20
Carbomer 2984 0. 20
S orbi tan ol eate 0.10
C . PF-10 STT-65C-S 10.00
Caprol 1 OG-10-0 1 . oo
C12-15 a1 kyl benzoate 15.00
Butyl stearate 3. 00
Procedure:
Mix A; heat t o 50C. Mix 8, heat t o 50C. Gri nd C, add t o B
and mix wel l , Add BC a t 50C t o A a t 50C whi l e homomixing. Sweep
t o 40C.
F ormul ati on PF-0325 suggested by Kobo
ZnO/TiO2, Sunscreen Lotion, SPF-15
L i ght- textured, water- resi stant sunscreen u t i l i z e s a di sper-
si on o f surface- treated ti tani um di oxi de and z i nc oxi de. Al though
the proj ected SPF o f t h i s treated i norgani c sunblock formul a i s
15, " i n vi vo" tes ti ng SPF 17+.
I nqredi ents:
A. Demineral i zed water
B. Dermacryl LT
D. Xanthan gum
C. AMP-95
ProDvlene ql vcol
E . 79790 Di spersi on UF Ti 02 and 2-Cote HP-1
DC200 F l ui d
Cetearyl al cohol
% by Weiaht
50.20
1 .oo
0. 30
2. 00
q . s .
30.00
0. 50
1.50
L i pomui se I 65 1. 50
Brookswax P 2.00
F. P olysorbate-20 5 . 0 0
Fragrance q. s.
G. Germaben I 1 1- 00
Brookosome SO 5. 00
Procedure:
Di sperse B i n A; heat t o 80C. Adj ust pH t o 8. 0 wi th C . Add D
t o ABC; mix 30 mi nutes. Combine E; heat t o 85C. Add E t o ABCD;
mix and cool t o 40C. Premix F; add t o batch. Homogenize u n t i l
uni form. Cool t o room temperature; add G.
F ormul ati on PF-0324 suggested by Cardre
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
566 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Sunscreen
I naredi ent :
1 Dehymuls HRE7
2 C eti ol SN
3 Eutanol G
4 Mi crocrystal 1 i ne wax
5 Zi nc s tearate
6 P arsol MCX
7 P arsol 1789
8 Gl yceri ne
9 Magnesi um sul phate
10 P reservati ve
1 1 Water
%w/w
7.0
10.0
6.0
1.0
1.0
6.0
1 . o
5.0
0.5
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a water res i s tant W/O sun screen
l o t i on.
The f i r s t seven components are mel ted together a t about 85C.
Components 8 B 9 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase. The
water phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C
Formula TS 463
Water Resistant Sunscreen
I naredi ent:
1 Dehymuls HRE7
2 Ceti ol SN
3 T i ovei l MOTG
4 Mi crocrystal 1 i ne wax
5 Zi nc s tearate
6 Gl yceri ne
7 Magnesi um sul phate
8 P reservati ve
9 Water
%w/w
7.0
10.0
6.0
1.0
1 . o
5.0
0.5
q . s .
t o 100.0
Thi s formul ati on gi ves a water res i s tant W/O sun screen cream.
The f i r s t f i v e components are mel ted together at about 85C.
On appl i cati on, the T i ovi el shows whi te on the ski n, but i s
eas i l y rubbed i n.
Components 6 & 7 are di ssol ved i n the water and t h i s mi xture
i s then heated t o the same temperature as the o i l phase.
The water phase i s then added t o the o i l phase and di spersed.
Mi xi ng shoul d conti nue down t o about 35C.
Formula TS 474
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Ski n Care P roj ect F ormul ati ons
Sun Care Products 567
Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion
A . S teari c Acid, TP
Dimethicone (and) T ri methyl s i l oxys i l ate
Octyl Dimethyl PABA (Van Dyk, E scal ol 507)
C12-15 Al cohol s Benzoate (F i netex, F i ns ol v TN)
Cetyl R i ci nol eate (Cas Chem, Nature Chem CR)
Gl yceryl S tearate (Van Dyk, Cerasynt SD)
Mink O i l (Emulan, Heavy F racti on)
P ropyl Paraben
(Dow Corning, 593 F l ui d)
6 . S orbi tol , 70% ( I C I , Sorbo)
Tri ethanol ami ne, 99%
Methyl Paraben
Water
Wt.%
3.50
10, oo
5.00
1 . oo
0.80
1 .50
5.00
0. 15
5.00
1 . oo
0.25
66.80
Procedure:
Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A vi a propel l or agi tati on.
Sunblock
A water res i s tant sun protecti ve l oti on. Screens out UV-A
and UV- 6. E f f ecti ve sunblock. SPF approxi matel y 15.
A . Soya S terol (Generol 122, Henkel)
I sopropyl Lanol ate (Amerlate P, Amerchol)
Mink O i l (Emulan L i ght)
Gl yceryl S tearate (and) S tearyl Al cohol (and)
Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate (Cerasynt WM, Van Dyk)
S teari c Aci d XXX (Emersol 132, Emery)
Cetyl Al cohol
E thyl D i hydroxypropyl PABA (and) P ropylene Gl ycol
Benzophenone-3 (E scal ol 567, Van Dyk)
P ropyl Paraben
(Amerscreen P-80/20, Amerchol)
8. P ropylene Gl ycol USP
Tri ethanol ami ne, 99%
Water
Methyl Paraben
1 . 30
1.50
21 . oo
3. 00
3.60
0.50
6.00
3.00
0. 10
3.00
0, 75
32.05
0. 20
C . Mi crocrys tal l i ne Cel l ul ose (Avi cel RC 591, FMC) 3.50
Water 20. 00
DMDM Hydantoin (Gl ydant, Lonza) 0.30
Perfume 0. 20
Procedure:
shear propel l or. S t i r cool t o 30C. Add Phase C .
SOURCE: Emulan, I nc. : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Mel t Phase A i ngredi ents t o 8OC. Add 8OC Phase B vi a hi gh
568 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Eldew
% by Weiqht I nqredi ents/Trade Name:
P art A:
S teari c Aci d T r i pl e P ressed
Cetyl Alcohol
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol
Di methicone (and) Tri methyl s
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Parso
Benzo~henone-3/Uvinul M-40
593
4.00
1- 00
2.00
5.00
MCX 7.50
6.00
Octyl ' s al i cyl ate/ Uvi nul 0-18 5.00
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 5.00
Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben
Di ( chl oes teryl , behenyl, octyl dodecyl )
N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamic Aci d ester/Eldew CL-301 5.00
P art B:
Deionized Water 57.75
Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0.25
P art C:
Di az ol i di nyl Urea/Germall I 1 0.30
Deionized Water 1. 00
Combine P art A and heat t o 75 degrees Centigrade wi th mi xi ng.
Heat dei oni zed water of P art B t o 75 degrees C. Disperse PNC 400
i nt o the water wi th hi gh shear mi xi ng u n t i l uni form gel i s
formed. Add par t A t o par t B wi th mi xi ng. Hold a t 75 degrees
f o r 15 minutes. Cool t o 40 degrees C and add premixed par t C
wi th conti nuous mi xi nq. Cool t o 30 desrees C .
l oxys i 1 i cate/Dow Corni ng
(and) P ropylparaben/Nipastat 0.20
Appearance: White,-smooth, shi ny cream
pH: 6.00 t o 6.50
Vi s cos i ty: 60,000-80,000 cps (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25 degrees C)
Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew
I nqredi ent/Trade Name: % by Weiqht
P art A:
Carnauba Wax #I Y el l ow 4.00
Ozokeri te Wax J H1680 4.00
S yntheti c Beeswax J H-1508 10.00
P ropylparaben 0.15
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate/
Eldew CL-301 10. 00
P art B:
Castor O i l 26.55
PPG-3 Hydorgenated Castor Oi l / Hetester HCP 15.00
G1 yceryl T r i acetyl Hy d r o x y s t ear at e/ Het es t er HCA 15.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/P arsol MCX 7.50
Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 5.00
Octyl Sal i cyl ate/ Uvi nul 0-18 2.00
Tocopheryl Acatate/Vi tami n E Acetate 0.60
P art C:
Bi sabol ol (S yntheti c) 0.20
a l l s ol i ds are compl etel y di ssol ved. Add P art B i ngredi ents .
Mix unt i l uni form. Cool t o 65 degrees Centi grade. Add P art C.
Mix wel l . F i l l .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I nc. : Suggested Formulations
Heat P art A i ngredi ents t o 80 degrees Centigrade. Mix unt i l
Section Xlll
Miscellaneous
569
570 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleanser, Clear, Liquid
Dehyton AB30
Vi scontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% s ol uti on
Perfume, water- sol ubl e
Note: WAS 6%, hi gh vi scous
Formula No. L610-01
Cleanser, Disinfecting, Transparent, In Gel Form
Texapon N70
Dehyton AB30
Bacteri ci de
Water
Note: WAS 27%
Formula No. L610-03
Footbath, Fungicide, Liquid
Dehyton AB30
F ungi ci de DA
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 9%
Formula No. L610-05
Washing Cream for Tube Filling
Texapon N40
Comperl an 100
Cuti na AGS
Hydagen P
C i t r i c aci d
Perfume
Water
Note: WAS 17%
Formula No. L610-07
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
36w/w
30.0
69.0
1. 0
%w/w
30.0
20.0
0. 5
49.5
%w/W
30.0
2. 0
1. 0
67. 0
%w/w
50.00
3.00
5.00
2. 00
0. 05
1 . oo
38.95
Miscellaneous 571
Clear Golden Hydrogel
I nnredi ents: % bv Weiaht
A. Water ( Di s ti l l ed) 86.98
EDTA D i sodi urn 0. 10
C el l os i z e PCG-10 1.50
8. Dow Corni ng 193 3.00
C. S uttoci de A 0.70
P ronal en F r ui t Aci ds AHA-20 4.00
AMP-95 0. 60
Extrapone Bamboo T i mi ron Sungold 3.00
Spark1 e MP-29 0.02
P erf . Rain F orest 0. 10
Note: Mai ntai n pH cl ose t o 5.50 (not over), correct wi th AMP,
Dascri p t i on:
provi des smmoth f eel on the s ki n.
Procedure:
I . Put water i n the tank, add EDTA, mix and s tar t heati ng.
2. S pri nkl e C el l os i z e on top and heat the mi xture up t o 75C.
3. Then s t a r t cool i ng the mi xture and add DC 193.
4. Gel w i l l be formed on cool i ng.
5. When temperature i s below 50C, add S uttoci de and mix and
af ter that add AHA sl owl y.
6. The addi ti on o f AHA w i l l break the gel and then addi ti on o f
AMP-95 w i l l hel p t o reform it.
7. Premix pigment wi th pl ant extract and add sl owl y, and a f t e r
that perfume.
8. Stop mi xi ng a t 25C, take sample f o r QA and when approved
pack the product.
F ormul ati on PF-0309 suggested by Dow Corni ng
i f necessary.
P roduct i s mi l d due t o acti on o f Oow Corni ng 193 which
Glycerol Gel Base
Other ingredients may be incorporated as desired.
I nqredi ents: 56 bv Weiaht
S tabi l eze 06 0.50
AMP-95 0. 50
Gl yceri ne 89.70
Add i ti ves q . s
Germall I 1 0. 30
Procedure:
Disperse S tabi l eze i n water wi th s t i r r i n g f o r 10 mi nutes.
Heat the di spersi on t o 70-8OC f o r 15 t o 20 mi nutes, unt i l
thi ckeni ng occurs. S tart cool i ng. Add AMP wi th s t i r r i ng. Mix
u n t i l uni form. Add gl yceri ne sl owl y over 10 minutes wi th
s t i r r i ng. S t i r u n t i l uni form gel i s obtai ned. Add remai ni ng
i ngredi ents, mi xi ng thoroughl y af ter each addi ti on.
F ormul ati on PF-0244E suggested by I S P
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
Water, dei oni zed 9. 00
572 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Dentifrice Gel
Denti f r i ce gel wi th anti - cari es acti ve sodium monofluoro-
phosphate (Sodium MFP).
I nqredi ent:
P art A:
G1 ycer i n
Carbopol 1382 (1)
P art B:
Dei oni zed Water
Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate
Sodium Saccharine
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium MFP
P art C :
Sodium Hydroxide (50%)
P art D:
D i c al c i um Phosphate, Di hydrate
P art E :
Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate (2)
F1 avor
(1) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)
(2) Texapol LS lOOF (Henkel)
Wei Qht%
22.00
0.50
24.43
0.25
0.20
0.50
0 . 7 6
0. 40
40. 76
1.20
1.00
F uncti on
Humectant
Gel 1 i ng Agent
D i 1 uent
Chel ant
Sweetener
P reservati ve
Acti ve
Neutral i zer
Abrasi ve
S urfactant
P reparati on P rocedure:
1. In a s tai nl es s s teel vacuum mixer tank a t ambient temper-
ature and pressure, s l owl y add Carbopol t o gl yceri n wi th
rapi d agi tati on.
u n t i l a cl ear s ol uti on i s formed, then combine wi th P art
A wi th moderate agi tati on.
2. I n separate vessel combine P art B wi th moderate agi tati on
3. Add P art C t o P arts A and B wi th moderate agi tati on.
4 . Add P art D wi th slow mi xi ng u n t i l powder i s wetted.
5. Turn on vacuum and mix a t moderate speed 30 minutes,
i ntroduce P art E. Mi x 5-7 minutes a t very slow speed.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co . : Formula C-0037
Miscellaneous 573
Denture Cleanser in Powder Form
I Texapon K12
Sodium tri pol yphosphate
Sodium carbonate
Sodium perborate
Sodium chl ori de
Borax, i n f i ne powder form
Chloramine T
I 1 P henol phthal ei n
I 1 1 Peppermint o i l P17
*
0. 50
54.45
15.00
10.00
1 .oo
15.00
3.00
0. 05
1 . oo
P reparati on:
Pass I through a si eve wi th a mesh s i z e o f 0. 5 mm. F i nel y
gri nd I 1 wi th par t of I and add it t o the whole amount o f I .
Wet t h i s mi xture wi th 1 1 1 and mix it i n a mi xi ng drum.
Formula No. K81-01
Denture Cleaner in Tablet Form
I Texapon K12
P otassi um persul f ate
Sodium perborate
Sodi um carbonate
P otassi um hexacyanoferrate I 1
I 1 Peppermint o i l P I 7
0. 5
30.0
30.0
37. 0
2. 0
0. 5
P reparati on:
wi th 11. The substances are wel l mixed i n a mi xi ng drum and
then compressed t o form tabl ets .
Formula No. K81-05
Pass I through a si eve wi th a mesh s i z e o f 0. 5 mm and wet
Denture-Cleaning Tablets
I Sodium tri pol yphosphate
Col orant
1 1 Potassium pers ul f ate
Texapon K12
Sodi um perborate
Sodi um bi carbonate
Chloramine T
1 1 1 Peppermint o i l P17
38. 5
0. 1
16.0
0. 5
29.9
7. 0
0 . 5
0 . 5
P reparati on:
Gri nd I , mix wi th I 1 and pass through a si eve wi th a mesh
s i z e o f 0. 5 mm. Wet wi th I 1 1 and mix wel l i n a mi xi ng drum. The
mi xture i s then compressed t o form tabl ets .
Formula No. K81-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
574 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Detackification of Carbomer Gel
- A Dei oni zed Water
Carbomer 940
Potassium Sorbate
- B Dei oni zed Water
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Weiqht%
90 I 30
0. 80
0. 10
2. 00
0.80
- C Pelemol G7A (Gl ycereth- 7 T ri acetate) 5. 00
- D P ropylene Gl ycol (and) Di az ol i di nyl Urea (and) 1 .oo
Lab P rocedure:
s i on i s obtai ned add P otassi um Sorbate wi th adequate agi tati on.
Add phase t o phase 6 under sweep agi tati on. When a
uni form gel i s obtai ned, add phase C t o under slow sweep
agi tati on. Continue sl ow sweep agi tati on and add phase Q t o G.
*The addi ti on o f Pelemol G7A t o a Carbomer gel w i l l , i n many
cases, compl etel y el i mi nate the gel ' s tr ans i ti onal tacki ness on
dry-down.
Formula 14-42-A
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
Di sperse Carbomer i n phase 6 water. When a uni form di sper-
Detackification of Carbomer Gel
- A Deionized Water
Carbomer 940
P otassi um Sorbate
- B Dei oni zed Water
Tri ethanol ami ne (99%)
Weight%
90.30
0. 80
0. 10
2. 00
0. 80
- C Gl yceri n 5. 00
- D P ropylene Gl ycol (and) D i azo1 i di nyl Urea (and) 1. 00
Lab P rocedure:
i s obtai ned add Potassium Sorbate wi th adequate agi tati on. Add
phase B t o phase 4 under sweep agi tati on. When a uni form gel
i s obtai ned, add phase C t o under slow speed agi tati on.
Continue slow sweep agi tati on and add phase Q t o &.
*The addi ti on of Pelemol G7A t o a Carbomer gel w i 11, i n many
cases, compl etel y el i mi nate the gel ' s tr ans i ti onal tacki ness on
dry-down.
Formula 14-42-8
SOURCE: Phoenix Chemical, I nc . : Suggested F ormul ati ons
Methylparaben (and) P ropylparaben
Di sperse Carbomer i n phase A water. When a uni form di spersi on
Miscellaneous 575
Liposome Gel
A soothi ng gel combining the benef i ts of vi tami ns A, C and E
i n a s ynergi s ti c and ef f ec ti ve liposome system.
I naredi ents:
1. O i s t i 1 l ed/Oei oni zed Water
2. Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)
3. Xanthan Gum
4. 1,3-Butylene Gl ycol
5. O i methi cone Copol yo1
6. Shebu WS (Shea Butter)
7. TEA @ 99%
8. Promois ECP (Col l agen)
9. Glydant
10. Fragrance
11.Rovisome ACE (Vi tami n Blend)
%w/w
87. 40
0 . 5 0
0. 10
5.00
0.10
1 .oo
0.40
0. 20
0.20
0.10
5. 00
F uncti on
Gel l i ng Agent
Gel 1 i ng Agent
Sol ubi 1 i zer
Condi ti oni ng
Condi ti oni ng
pH Adj uster
Bi 01 ogi cal
Addi ti ve
P reservati ve
Odor
Liposome
----
Compounding Procedure:
Add items 4,5 and 6 separatel y. Add TEA u n t i l batch thi ckens.
Add i tems 8, 9, 10 and 11. The pH o f a gel i s 5. 5.
Ref. No. 119-6
Di sperse i tem 2 i n water. Add i tems 3 and mix u n t i l di ssol ved.
A soothi ng gel combining the benef i ts o f Hyal uroni c Aci d
del i vered deep i n the s ki n vi a Rovisome.
I naredi ents:
1. D i s t i 1 l ed/Dei oni zed Water
2. Acri tamer 940 (Carbomer 940)
3. Tetrasodium EDTA
4. 1 ,3-Butylene Gl ycol
5. Methyldibromo Gl utar oni tr i l e and
Phenoxyethanol
6. Sodium Hydroxide @ 10%
7. Rovisome HA (Al cohol and L eci thi n
8. FD&C Bl ue No. 1 S ol uti on @ 10%
Hyal uroni c Aci d)
%w/w
06.87
0.70
0. 10
4. 00
0 . 3 0
q . s
8. 00
0.03
and
F uncti on
Vi s cos i ty
S tabi 1 i t y
Sol ubi 1 i zer
P reservati ve
pH Adj uster
Moi s turi z ati on
Col or
---_
Compounding Procedure:
Di sperse Acri tamer i n water wi th sl ow agi tati on. Add i tems
3-5 wi th conti nuous agi tati on. Adj ust pH wi th i tem 6 t o 6. 2- 7. 0.
Then add Rovisome and dyes.
Ref. No. 119-120
SOURCE: R. I . T. A. Corp. : S ki n Care Formulary
Liposome Gel
576 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mouth-Wash Gargle, Foaming
I Texapon K12
Cremogen camomile spec.
Cremogen wi tch hazel extract
Arni ca ti nc tur e
~
1. 8
0. 5
5. 0
5. 0
I 1 Water 75. 5
I 1 1 Menthol
Thymol
Peppermint o i l P17, water- sol ubl e
0. 2
0. 5
1. 5
I V 96% ethyl al cohol 10. 0
P reparati on:
Formula No. K 51-01
Di ssol ve I i n 1 1 , di s s ol ve I 1 1 i n I V and mix both s ol uti ons .
Mouth-Wash Gargle, Emulsifying
I C eti ol HE
Water
I 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
1 1 1 Mouth-wash aroma
96% ethyl al cohol
P reparati on:
Formula No. K51-02
Mix the phases i n the order gi ven above.
w
4.0
13.0
18.0
10.0
5 5 . 0
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Miscellaneous 577
Oil-Liposome-Gel
I nnredi ents : %-bv Wei qht
D i ssol ve:
Water, demi neral i zed 52. 80
Panthenol 1 . oo
Add :
Ethanol DAB 9 13.30
Add gradual l y and homogenize approxi matel y 20 mi nutes:
Carbopol 940 0.80
Add gradual l y and homogenize approxi matel y 15 mi nutes:
T i tani um di oxi de 0. 50
F or neutr al i z ati on add gradual l y and homogenize approx-
T r i s Amino 1.30
Water, Demi neral i zed 5. 00
Add and homogenize:
Cont. 1% Vi tami n E-acetate, 1% Vi tami n C- pal mi tate
Add and homogenize:
Perfume oi l / S arag 607,423D 0. 30
T hi s f ormul ati on i s preserved by 16 wei ght percent ethanol .
F ormul ati on PF-0248E suggested by RPR Nattermann
J ojoba O i l 5. 00
i matel y 15 mi nutes:
Nati pi de I 1 (20% P hosphol i pi ds) 20. 00
P hosphol i pi d GmbH
Vitamin-Liposome-Gel
I ngredi ents : %Lw__ei-CL!lL
Di ssol ve:
Water, demi neral i zed 54 I 60
Ethanol DAB 9 13. 30
Add gradual l y and homogenize approxi matel y 20 mi nutes:
Carbopol 940 0. 80
Mix, add gradual l y and homogenize approxi matel y 20 mi nutes:
Carrot O i l 1 . 25
Macademi a O i 1 3. 75
For neutr al i z ati on, add gradual l y and homogenize approx-
T r i s Amino 1 . oo
Water, demi neral i zed 5.00
Add and homogenize:
Nati pi de I I (20% Phosphol i p i ds) 20. 00
Cont . 1% V i tami n E-acetate, 1% Vi tami n C-palmi t at e
Add and homogenize wi th:
Perfume oi l / Di amel a 15,544RB 0.30
Thi s f ormul ati on i s preserved by 16 wei ght percent ethanol .
F ormul ati on PF-0247E suggested By RPR Nattermann Phospho-
i matel y 15 mi nutes:
1 i p i d GmbH
SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P roduct Formulary
578 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Personal Hygiene Cleansers
Cleaner, Disinfectant, Clear
%w/w
Texapon MLS 60.0
Bacteri ci de O . 5
1,2-propylene glycol 5.0
Water 34.5
Note: WAS 20%, low viscous
Formula No. L611-01
Cleanser, Disinfectant, Clear
%w/w
Texapon SBN 60.0
Bacteri ci de 0.5
1,2-propylene glycol 3.0
Sod ium c h l or i d e 2.0
Water 34.5
Note: WAS 18%, low viscous
F or m ula No. L611-03
Cleanser, Bactericide, Clear, L iq u id
%w/w
Dehyton AB3Q 15.0
Dehyquart SP 0.1
Viscontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% solut i on 60.0
Perfume 0.2
Water 24.7
Note: WAS 4.5%, m ed i u m viscous
F or m ula No. L611-05
Cleanser, Disinfecting, Aerosol-Packed
%w/w
Texapon ASV 50.0
Comperlan OD 4.0
Bacteri ci de 0.5
Ethyl alcohol 96% 2.5
Water 43.0
F i l l i n g : 90 parts s ol u t i on
10 parts pr opel l ant 12/ 114 (40:60)
Note: WAS 19%
Formula No. 611-06
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Miscellaneous 579
Personal Hygiene Cleansing Emulsions
(Cleansers in Emulsion Form for Personal Hygiene)
Cleansing Lotion, Disinfecting, Pearly
Texapon N40
Comperlan KD
Cuti na AGS
P ar af f i n o i l , hi gh vi scous
Bacteri ci de
P ol ygl ycol 400
Water
Note: WAS 24%, medium vi scous
P reparati on: The substances are heated t o 60-70C and then
s t i r r ed whi l s t cool i ng.
Formula No. L612-01
Cleansing Lotion, Disinfecting, Pearly
Texapon EVR
Texapon N40
Bacter i c i de
1,Z-propyl ene gl ycol
Water
Note: WAS 26%, medium vi scous
Formula No. L612-02
Personal Hygiene Spray
Eutanol G
Cetyl tri methyl ammonium bromide
E thyl al cohol 96%
Perfume
P ropel l ant 12/114 (40:60)
- %W/ w
60.0
7 . 0
7. 0
10. 0
0 . 5
10. 0
5. 5
yowl w
40. 0
40. 0
0. 5
5 . 0
14. 5
%W/W
1 . o
0. 1
2. 0
0 . 5
96. 4
Note: I t i s advi sabl e t o use a bath o i l perfume which has been
tes ted f o r i t s compati bi l i ty wi th the mucous membranes and
s t a bi l i t y i n aerosol cans.
Formula No. L71-01
Personal Hygiene Spray (Dry Spray)
Hydagen DE0
Myr i tol 318
F ri gen 12 propel l ant
Formula No. L71-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
P arts
1. 50 g
1. 95 g
96.55 g
580 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Quick Emulsifying Base-A
I ngredi ents:
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8852)
PEG-25 Gl yceryl T ri ol eate (Tagat TO)
Avocado O i l
Calendula O i 1
Capryl i c/ Capri c T ri gl yceri des (Tegosoft CT)
Col or, Fragrance
Quick Emulsifying Base-B
I naredi ents:
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8852)
PEG-25 Gl yceryl T ri ol eate (Tagat TO)
Avocado O i l
Mi neral O i l
I sopropyl Myri s tate (Tegosoft M)
Col or, Fragrence
Quick Emulsifying Base-C
I naredi ents:
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8852)
PEG-25 Gl yceryl T ri ol eate (Tagat TO)
Avocado O i l
Mi neral Oil
I sopropyl Myri s tate (Tegosoft M)
Capryl i c/ Capri c T ri gl yceri des (Tegosoft CT)
Col or, Fragrance
%w/w
10.0
18. 0
20.0
10. 0
42.0
Q . S .
%w/w
10. 0
13. 0
20.0
50. 0
7. 0
Q . S .
96w/w
10.0
10. 0
15. 0
25. 0
30. 0
10.0
P . S .
P rocedure:
Bases are cl ear wi th a honey- l i ke vi s cos i ty.
Add the i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng wel l between addi ti ons .
Uses :
Blooming bath o i l s , i ns tant l oti ons f or af ter bath.
emol 1 i ent l oti ons .
When these formul as are added t o water or t o wet sk
i ent and non- sti cky emulsions are formed.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulat
Af ter sun
n, emol l -
ons
Miscellaneous 581
Shampoo Concentrate for Dogs and Cats
(Formula 92-0604)
% bv Weinht
Rhodapex NA 61 33.0
Mi ratai ne BET C30 26.0
Sodi um Chl ori de 4.0
Deionized Water 17.0
C i t r i c Aci d q. s. pH t o 8.0+-0.2
A1 kami de DC-212/S 20.0
Fragrance, dye, pres ervati ve q . s .
Bl endi nq P rocedure: I n the main manufacturing vessel , bl end
the Rhodapex NA 61 and the NaCl and begi n heati ng t o 50-55C.
A t that temperature, add the Alkamide DC-212/S and the Mi ratai ne
BET C30 and mix u n t i l the batch i s homogeneous and cl ear. Let
batch cool t o 40-45C and add water, fragrance, dye and preserva-
t i ve. Continue t o l e t batch cool t o room temperature.
Note: The vi s cos i ty o f the letdown a t di f f er ent r ati os can be
adj usted by the amount o f NaCl added t o the formul a.
F ormul ati on P roduct: Thi s product can be di l uted from 3: l t o 15: l
Flea&Tick Shampoo for Dogs
% bv Weight
SD40 Al cohol 2.00
P yroci de 51 92 (McLaughl i n Gorml ey K i ng Co. ) 0.44
Rhodapex MA 360 10.00
Fragrance, Dye, P reservati ve q. s .
Water 87.56
Blendina Procedure:
Combine SD40 al cohol and P yroci de and mix u n t i l uni form
and cl ear . Add al cohol /P yroci de bl end t o Rhodapex MA 360, and
mix u n t i l uni form. Wi th smooth agi tati on, s l owl y add mi xture
t o water. Add fragrance, dye and pres ervati ve.
Acti ve I ns redi ents :
P yrethri ns: 0.040%
P i peronyl butoxi de, tech: * 0.080%
N- octyl bi cycl heptene di carboxi mi de: 0.032%
P etroleum di s t i 1 l ates : 0.189%
* Equi val ent t o 0.064% ( butyl car bi tyl ) (6- propyl pi peronyl )
ether and 0.016% rel ated compounds.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S urfactants & S peci al ti es : Formulas
582 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo
(cold process)
I nqredi ents:
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water
Ammonium Laureth S ul fate- 2 m. E . O.
Ammoni um Lauryl S ul f ate
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (Tego Betai ne F 50)
PEG-7 Gl yceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC)
PEG-30 Gl yceryl Laurate (Tagat L )
Dimethicone Copolyol ( Abi l B 8852)
Water (and) Ethoxydi gl ycol (and) P ropyl en@ G1 ycol
(and) Butyl ene Gl ycol (and) Matri cari a E xtract (and)
Sage E xtract (and) Yarrow E xtract (and) Balm Mi nt
E xtract (and) Rosemary E xtract (and) Restharrow E xtract
(and) C ol ts f oot E xtract (and) Wi l d Thyme E xtract (and)
Hors etai l E xtract (and) F ructose (and) Al thea E xtract
(Extrapone 3 Speci al 2/789490 Dragoco) 0. 15
C i tr i c Aci d (25% s ol uti on) t o pH 6
P reservati ves Q . S .
Fragrance Q.S.
Cocamidopropyl Betai ne (and) Gl yceryl Laurate
(Anti 1 HS-60) 5.00
Ammonium Chl ori de (25% s ol uti on) as needed
%w/w
0 . 1 0
40.75
25.00
20.00
5. 00
2.50
1.00
0. 50
Procedure:
Adj ust vi s cos i ty.
Add i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng between addi ti ons . Adj ust pH.
Body Building Conditioner
I ngredi ents:
Water
Gl yceryl S tearate S . E . (Tegi n)
G1 ycol S tearate (EGMS-VA)
Cetyl A1 coho1
P ropylene Gl ycol
Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272)
Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l B 8852)
Col or, P reservati ves, Fragrance
P rocedure:
1 . Heat the water t o 70-75C. D i sperse the Tegin, EGMS-VA,
%w/w
90.10
3.00
1. 00
2. 00
3.00
0.50
0. 40
Q.S.
Cetyl Al cohol . Mix wel l .
2. Begin cool i ng. Cool t o 45-50C whi l e mi xi ng. Mix the
Gl ycol and the Abi l Quat 3272 together and add t o t
Mi x,
3. Swi tch t o sweep mi xer. Cool t o 40-45C. Add the A b i l
Col or, P reservati ves, and Fragrance. Mi x.
4. Continue cool i ng. F i l l .
Formula GCC 16-11
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi dt Chemi cal Corp . : Suggested Formul a t
and
P ropylene
e batch I
B 8852,
ons
Miscellaneous 583
Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent
I Water
I 1 Dehydazol A4000P
I 1 1 Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
I V Si dent 12 DS
Aerosi l 200
V Eumulgin SML 20
Eumulgin SMS 20
Toothpaste aroma
Water
Sodium hydroxi de (10% s ol uti on)
V I Texapon K12
o m
6. 0
0. 2
0. 6
66. 0
18.0
2.0
0. 4
0. 8
1. 0
1 . o
4. 0
P reparati on:
gl yceri n are added and al l owed t o s wel l . S i dent 12 DS and
Aerosi l 200 are added and s t i r r e d i n u n t i l a homogeneous paste
i s created. The tooth paste aroma i s s ol ubi l i z ed i n the emul si f-
i e r Eumulgin SML 20/SMS 20 i n a separate vessel , and then added
t o the mi xture. Texapon K12 and the water are s ti r r ed i n
c ar ef ul l y ( t o prevent foam formati on). De- aerati on takes
pl ace i n a strong vacuum.
Formula No. K11-10
Sodium chl ori de i s dessolved i n water. Dehydazol A400P and
Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent
I Water
I 1 Dehydazol A400P
1 1 1 S orbi tol (70%)
I V Si dent 12 DS
Aerosi l 200
V Eumulgin SML 20
Eumulgin SMS 20
Toothpaste aroma
Water
Col ori ng agent E 131 1%
Sodi um hydroxi de
V I Texapon K12
y&wJJ
6.0
0. 2
0. 6
68.0
16. 0
2.0
0. 4
0 . 8
1. 0
1 . o
3 . 5
0 . 5
P reparat i on :
Di ssol ve the sodium hydroxi de i n water. Add s or bi tol and
al l ow t o swel l wi th Dehydazol A400P, s t i r r i n g sl owl y. When
s wel l i ng i s complete (any lumps must be destroyed) add S i dent
12 DS and Aeros i l 200 and s t i r you have a homogeneous paste.
The aroma i s s ol ubi l i z ed i n Eumulgin SML 20/SMS 20 i n a
separate vessel before bei ng added t o the paste. The col ori ng
agent and the Texapon K12 are di ssol ved i n water and s t i r r e d
i n c ar ef ul l y (keep foam formati on t o a minimum). De-aerate
f or max. 1/2 hour i n a strong vacuum. (Vacuum 1650 Pa.)
Formula No. K11-11
SOURCE : Hen kel KGaA : Comet i c Model Formul ae
584 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Toothpaste
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index:
Tyl ose CB 200/Sodium Carboxymethyl Cel l ul ose
Water
HDK N 20 P / S i l i ca
G1 yceri ne
Sorbi to1 70%i g/Sorbi to1
Calcium Carbonate
Texapon K 1296/Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate
P reservati ves, fl avours, pigments
1.20%
31 .EO
2.00
10.00
10.00
40.00
5. 00
q . s .
Di sperse Tyl ose wel l i n water and l e t s wel l . Add HDK and
di sperse wel l , mix i n gl yceri ne and S orbi tol . S t i r i n cal ci um
carbonate. Add Texapon K 1296 caref ul l y; avoi d strong foaming
Evacuate the f i ni s hed formul ati on f o r a short peri od.
F ormul ati on 250 AH
Toothpaste, Transparent
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
Tyl ose CB 2OO/Sodium Carboxymethyl Cel l ul ose
Water
Pol yethyl engl okol 400/PEG-8
Sorbi to1 70%i g/Sorbi to1
Gl yceri ne
HDK NZOP/Si 1 i ca
Texapon K 1296/Sodium Lauryl S ul f ate
P reservati ves, fl avours, pigments
0.50%
19.00
4.30
17.00
50. 00
5. 70
2. 50
q . s .
Add Tyl ose and HDK t o the water whi l s t s tr r i ng. S t i r i n
PEG-8. Add Texapon K1296 caref ul l y; avoi d strong foaming.
Evacuate the f i ni s hed formul ati on f or a short peri od.
F ormul ati on 252 AH
Toothpaste
Materi a1 /CTFA-Index
A : Water
B: HDK N 2OP /Si l i ca
C : Gl yceri ne
D: Dentphos K/Di cal ci um Phosphate Di hydrate
E: Medialan LD/Sodi um Lauroyl Sarcosi nate
Tyl ose CB 2OO/Sodium Carboxymethyl Cel l ul ose
P reservati ves, fl avours, pigments
37.60%
1.30
3.20
15.00
35.00
6.60
q . s .
Di sperse Tyl ose wel l i n water and l e t s wel l . Mix i n HDK and
di sperse wel l . Add C. S t i r i n D thoroughl y. Mix i n E sl owl y
(avoi d strong foami ng).
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggested F ormul ati ons
F ormul ati on 271 AH
Miscellaneous 585
Toothpaste
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Water
Tyl ose CB POO/Sodium Carboxymethyl Cel l ul ose
HDK N 2OP/Si 1 i c a
8: Gl yceri ne
C : Dentphos K/Dicalcium Phosphate Di hydrate
Phoskadent pyro/Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate
Sodium Chl ori de
D: Medialan LD/Sodium Laurovl Sarcosi nate
P reservati vks, f I avours , - pi gmenti
Di sperse Tyl ose wel l i n water and l e t
di sperse wel l . Add 8 . S t i r i n C thorough
(avoi d strong foaming).
F ormul ati on 270 AH
swel
Y . M
43.14%
1 .oo
3.00
8.00
21 . oo
0.50
15.00
6.00
q . s .
. Mi x i n HDK and
x i n D sl owl y
Toothpaste
Material/CTFA-I ndex:
A: Water 32. 20%
Tyl ose CB 200/Sodium Carboxymethyl Cel l ul ose 1. 00
B: HDK N20P /Si l i ca 1.50
C : Gl yceri ne
Sorbi to1 70%i g
D: Calcium Carbonate
Hostapon KTW neu/Sodium Cocoyl Laurate
P reservati ves, fl avours, pigments
7. 00
15.00
38.00
4.00
q . s .
Di sperse Tyl ose wel l i n water and l e t s wel l . Mix i n HDK N20P
and di sperse wel l . Add C . S t i r i n D thoroughl y.
Temperature s t a bi l i t y: at 45C over 10 weeks.
F ormul ati on 272 AH
SOURCE: Wacker S i l i cone: Suggest ed F ormul ati ons
586 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Toothpaste, Foaming
I Chalk
P araf f i n o i l
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Toothpaste aroma
I 1 Texamid 570
Water
I11 1% Sacchari n s ol uti on
I V Texapon K12
Water
Formula preserved wi th 0.5-1% sodium benzoate
%w/w
32.0
2.0
20.0
1 . o
1.5
36.0
2.5
1 . o
4.0
P reparati on :
Mix I t o a paste, swel l 11, mix wi th I11 and add t o I.
Di ssol ve I V , heati ng s l i ght l y i f necessary and c ar ef ul l y s t i r
it i nt o I. I f the f i ni s hed paste has a smooth s tructure, it i s
r o l l e d once and then s t i r r e d i n a vacuum kneader u n t i l an
ai r f r ee paste i s obtai ned.
Formula No. K11-01
Toothpaste, Foaming
I Di cal ci um phosphate
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Toothpaste aroma
I 1 Dehydazol A400P
Water
111 1 % Sacchari n s ol uti on
I V Texapon K12
Water
Formula preserved wi th 0.5-1% sod
%w/w
47.5
30.0
1 . o
1.2
12.7
2.5
1 . o
4.1
um benzoate
P reparati on:
Mi x I t o a paste, swel l 11, mix w t h I11 and add t o I.
Di ssol ve I V , heati ng s l i ght l y and sl owl y s t i r it i n t o the
mi xture. I f the f i ni s hed paste has a smooth s tructure, it i s
r o l l e d and then s t i r r e d i n a vacuum kneader u n t i l an ai r f r ee
paste i s obtai ned.
Formula No. Kll-02
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Miscellaneous 587
Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200
I Chalk
Aerosi l 200
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
P araf f i n o i l
I 1 Toothpaste aroma
Menthol
I11 Dehydazol A400P
Water
3 0 . 0
2.0
2 0 . 0
2.0
1 . o
0.2
1 . o
30.0
I V 1% Saccharin s ol uti on 2. 5
V Texapon K12
Water
1.8
9.5
P reparati on :
Mix I t o a paste, di s s ol ve I 1 and add t o I. Swell 111, mi x
wi th I V and add t o I . Di ssol ve V, heati ng s l i ghtl y, and care-
f u l l y s t i r it i nt o the mi xture. I f the f i ni s hed paste has a
smooth s tructure, i t i s r ol l ed and then s t i r r e d i n a vacuum
kneader u n t i l an ai r f r ee toothpaste i s obtai ned.
Formula No. K11-03
Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200
I Chalk
Aerosi l 200
Henkel Gl yceri n 86% DAB 9
Toothpaste aroma
I 1 1% Saccharin s ol uti on
111 Dehydazol A400P
Water
I V Texapon K12
Water
30.0
3.5
20.0
1 . o
5.0
1 . o
30.0
1 . o
8.5
Procedure:
Di ssol ve I V , heati ng s l i ghtl y, and c ar ef ul l y s t i r it i nt o the
mi xture. I f the f i ni s hed paste has a smooth s tructure, the
paste i s r ol l ed once and then de-aerated i n a vacuum kneader.
Formula No. Kll-04
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae
Mix I t o a paste, swel l 111, mix wi th I 1 and add t o I .
588 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-Resistant Sport Tint
Veegum Ul tr a, and Rhodigel provi de emulsion s tabi l i z ati on,
vi scosi t y enhancement, and pigment suspension i n t h i s 1 uxuri ous,
water- resi stant, col d processed, l i q u i d makeup. A dual sunscreen
system ( octyl methoxycinnamate and ti tani um di oxi de) provi des
protecti on from UV radi ati on f o r the acti ve sportswoman.
I naredi ent : % by W t . *
A: Veegum U l tr a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c ate) 1.60
Rhodigel (Xanthan Gum) 0. 40
Dei oni zed Water 70.40
P ropylene G1 ycol 5.00
B: I r on Oxides
Manganese V i o l e t
Tal c
T i tani um Di oxi de
C : I s ocetyl Al cohol
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
M i neral O i 1 (and) Lanol i n Al cohol **
Ol eth- 3 Phosphate***
D: P VP ****
P reservati ve, Fragrance
0. 67
0.10
4.27
6. 96
3.00
3.00
2. 00
2. 20
0. 40
q. s .
* As Received Basi s
*** Crodafos N-3 Neutral
** Ri tachol , R . I . T . A . Corp.
**** PVP K-90
P rocedure:
mi xi ng wi th a hi gh speed di sperser a t 1700 r pm f o r 25 minutes.
Adj ust mi xer t o 850 rpm and add the propyl ene gl ycol . Blend B
i ngredi ents thoroughl y and gri nd i f necessary. Sl owl y add B t o A
u n t i l a l l i s added, mi xi ng u n t i l smooth and uni form. Mix together
C i ngredi ents wi th a propel l er s t i r r e r . Add C t o ( A and B) and
mix u n t i l homogeneous. Add D i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng u n t i l
smooth and uni form.
P roduct C haracteri s ti cs :
Dry bl end Veegum U l tr a and Rhodigel and add t o the water whi l e
Vi s cos i ty: 1800-2400 cps*****
pH: 6. 1+- 0. 2
*****Measured af ter 28 days agi ng a t room temperature usi ng
Brookf i el d Viscometer, Model LV, S pi ndl e #4 at 60 r pm.
SOURCE: R . T . Vanderbi l t Co., I nc . : Formula No. 453
Section XIV
Trade-Named
Raw Materials
589
590 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Abi l AV-20
Abil AV-2OHS
Ab11 B 8851
Abil B 8852
Abil B 9950
Abil B 88183
Abil EM-90
Abil Quat 3272
Abi l S 201
Abil Wax 2440
Abi l Wax 9000
Abi l Wax 9801
Abi l Wax 9810
Abil Wax 9814
Acetul an
Acri tamer 934
Acritamer 940
Acri tamer 941
Acuscrub 50
Acylglutamate CT-12
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Phenyl
Phenyl
Di meth
Di meth
trimethicone
t ri met hi cone
cone copol yo1
cone copolyol
Dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
Di methi cone copol yo1
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
Quaterni um-80
Dimethicone/sodium poly PG-
propyl dimethicone thi o-
sul fate copolymer
Behenoxy dimethicone
Stearyl dimethicone
Cetyl dimethicone
C24-28 a1 kyl methi cone
Cetyl dimethicone
Cetyl acetate (and) acetylated
l anol i n alcohol
Carbomer 934
Carbomer 940
Carbomer 941
2-Alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-
hydroxyethyl imidazol inium
betaine
SOURCE
Go1 dschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi dt
Go1 dschmi dt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi dt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi dt
Goldschmi dt
Go1 dschmi dt
Goldschmidt
Ame rcho 1
Ri ta
Ri ta
Ri ta
A1 1 i ed-
A j i nomoto
Acylgl utamate HS-11 Surfactant A j i nomoto
Trade-Named Raw Materials 591
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
RAW MATERIALS
Acudyne 255
Ado1 66 I s os tearyl al cohol
Advantage CP Resin Copolymer
Advantage V Resin VA/butyl mal eate/i sobornyl
Aethoxal B PPG-5 Laureth-5
acryl ate copolymer
Aj i dew N-50 Sodium PCA
Aj i dew T-50 Sodium PCA
Al col ec S L eci thi n
A1 kamide C-212
A1 kamide DC-207/S, DC-212/S, DC-207/S, DC-280/S, LE
Alkamuls EGDS, EGMS, EGMS/C, GMS, GMS-165, LVL, MM/M,
SPS, ss
Al oe Vera Gel Decol ori zed 1X
Al pi ne 165-049 Fragrance
Amerchol H- 9 S terol emulsi f i er & s tabi 1 i zer
Amerchol L-101 Mi neral o i l (and) l anol i n
Amerlate W I sopropyl l anol ate
Amerlate LFA L anol i n f a t t y aci ds
Amerlate P I sopropyl l anol ate
Ameroxol OE-20 01 eth-20
Amerscreen P-80/20 E thyl di hydroxypropyl PABA
Amersi 1 DMC-357 Dimethicone copol yol
Amihope LL Lauroyl l ys i ne
a1 coho1
(and) propyl ene gl ycol
Sherex
I S P
ISP
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
Amer L eci th
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Terry
Amerc ho 1
Amerchol
Amerchol
Ame r c hol
Amerchol
Amerchol
Amerc ho 1
Amercho 1
A j i nomoto
592 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Ami no-Col l agen 25
Ami no-Si 1 k SF
Ami soft CS-11
Ami s of t CT-12
Ami s of t GS-11
Ami s of t HS-11
Ami s o f t LS-11
AMi ter L-GOD/L-GOD2
Ami t e r LGS-2/LGS-5
Ammonyx CDO
Ammonyx KP
Ammonyx 4
AMP-95
AMP-Regul ar
Amphi sol
Amphome r
Amphomer LV-71
Amphomer 28-4910
Amphocerin E
Amphocerin K
Amphosol CA
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Col 1 agen ami no aci ds
S i l k amino aci ds
Sodi um cocoyl gl utamate
TEA cocoyl gl utamate
Sodium N-cocoyl, Tallow-L-
G1 utamate
Sodium hydroganated tal l ow
gl utamate
Sodium l auroyl gl utamate
Di octyl dodecyl l auroyl
gl utamate
gl utamate
Di steareth- 5 l auroyl
Cocami dopropyl oxi de
Amino oxi de
S tearal konium chl ori de
Ami nomethyl propanol (95%)
Ami nomethyl propanol
DEA-Cetyl phosphate
Copolymer
Copolymer
Copolymer
Mi xture of f a t t y al cohol and
Mi xture o f f a t t y al cohol , wax
wax es ters
esters and mi neral f ats
Cocami dopropyl betai ne
SOURCE
Maybrook
Maybrook
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Angus
Angus
G i vaudan
Nat S tarch
Nat S tarch
Nat S tarch
Henkel
Henkel
Stepan
Trade-Named Raw Materials 593
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Anti foam AF Emulsion Dimethicone DowCorn
A nti l HS-60
A nti l 1416
A nti l 171
A nti l 208
Aquamollin BC
Aqua-Tein C
Aqua-Tein S
Arl acel C
Arl acel 60
Arl acel 80
Arl acel 165
Arl acel 186
Arl acel 989
Arlamol E & EP
Armeen DM-18D
Arosurf TA-100
Arosurf 66-E2
Avi cel RC 591
Cocami dopropyl betai ne (and) Go1 dschmi d t
PEG-55 propyl ene gl ycol ol eate Goldschmidt
PEG-I8 gl yceryl ol eate/ cocoate Goldschmidt
gl yceryl l aurate
Acrylates/copolymer/glycol
EDTA-sodium s a l t
Amino aci ds/acetami de MEA/
propyl ene gl ycol
Acetamide MEA/MEA-hydrolyzed
si l k/ propyl ene gl ycol
S orbi tan stearate
S orbi tan ol eate
Gl yceryl stearate/PEG-100
stearate
Gl yceryl ol eate/ propyl ene
PEG-7 hydrogenated castor o i l
PPG-15 s tearyl ether
Dimethyl stearami ne
Di s tearyl dimoni um chl ori de
S urfactant
Mi crocrys tal 1 i ne c e l l ul ose
gl ycol
Go1 dschmi dt
Hoechst
Maybrook
Maybrook
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
Akzo
Sherex
Sherex
FMC
594 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Barquat CT-429 Cetri moni um chl ori de
Bel s i l ADM 6041 E Amodi meth i cone/emu 1 s i f i er
Bel s i l ADM 6042 E Amodimethi cone/emul s i f i e r
Bel s i l ADM 6056 E Dimethicone/amodimethicone/
nonoxynol-4/nonoxynol-l4
B el s i l ADM 6057 E Amodi met hi cone/ tal 1 owt ri moni um
chl ori de/nonoxnol - 10
B el s i l BNP Boron n i t r i d e
B el s i l CM 020/CM 025/ Cyclomethicone
Bel s i l CM 1000 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol
Bel s i l DM 0.65/DM 35/ Dimethicone
CM 030/CM 040
DM 100/DM 350
B el s i l DM 6600 E Dimethi cone/Tri deceth-I O
Bel s i l DM 10000 Dimethicone
B el s i l DMC 6031 Dimethicone copol yol
B el s i l DMC 6032 Dimethicone copol yol acetate
B el s i l DMC 6033 Dimethicone copol yol acetate
B el s i l DMC 6035 Methicone copol yol acetate
Bel s i l DMC 6038 Dimethicone copol yol
Bel s i l PDM 2O/PDM 200 Phenyl di methi cone
PDM 1000
SOURCE
Lonza
Wacker
Wac ke r
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wac ke r
Wacker
Wac ker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker
Wacker Bel s i l SDM 6022 Di methi cone/stearoxy di methyl -
oxy di methyl di si l oxane s i l ane/ stea
Bel s i l SM 6018 S tearyl meth
Bel s i l 350 D i met h i cone
Benecel MP943PR Hydroxypropy
Wac ker
Wacker
cone
methyl cel l ul ose Aqualon
RAW MATERI ALS
Bentone EW & 38
Bernel E ster DOM
Bi enwachs 81 00
Bi ocare SA
Bi omi n Se/P/C
Bi oterge AS-40
B r i j 96
B r i t o l 7
Bronidex L & L5
Bronopol
Brookswax D
Burst RSD-10
Trade-Named Raw Materials 595
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON SOURCE
Gel l i ng & suspending agent Rheox
Di octyl maleate Berne
Beeswax Henke
Albumen/hvaluronic aci d/ dextran
. -
s ul f ate
Selenium pol ypepti des
Sodium C16-18 o l e f i n sul fonate
01 eth- I O
Mi neral o i l
5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
Bacteri ci de
Cetearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
Dimethicone s i l yl a t e
C33-134 Cosmetic Bl ack I r on oxi de
C43-1810 Cosmetic Bl ue Ul tramari nes
C47-5175 Cosmetic Whi te T i tani um di oxi de
CAE PCA ethyl cocoyl argi nate
Cami l o1 Alpha-bi sabol ol
Capmul 10G-10-0 P ol gl yceryl - 10 decaol eate
Captex 300 Capri c/ capryl i c t r i g 1 ycer i des
Carbopol 934 Carbomer 934
Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940
Carbopol 941 Carbomer 941
Brooks
Stepan
I C 1
Sonneborn
Hen kel
Angus
Brooks
Hydrolabs
Sun
Sun
Sun
A j i nomoto
Maybrook
Capi tal
Capi tal
Goodrich
Goodrich
Goodrich
596 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Carbopol 954
Carbopol 980
Carbopol 981
Carbopol 1342
Carbopol 1382
Carbopol 2984
Carbopol 5984
Carbowax 200
Carbowax 400
Carnat i on
Carsami de SAL-7
Carsonol ALS
Carsoquat CT 429
Cashmir K-11
C-Base
Cegesoft C24
Cegesoft 17
C el l os i z e QP
C el l osi ze 30, OOOH
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Carbomer 954
Carbomer 980
Carbomer 981
Carbomer 1342
Carbomer 1382
Carbomer 2984
Carbomer 5984
Goodr
Goodr
Goodr
Goodr
Goodr
Good r
Goodr
Union
ch
ch
ch
ch
ch
ch
ch
arb
PEG-8 UnionCarb
Mi neral o i l Sonneborn
Lauramide DEA
Ammonium l aur yl s ul f ate
C etri moni urn chl ori de
Mi ca/ s i l i con di oxi de
M i neral o i 1 /PEG-30 1 anol i n/
c etyl al cohol
2- Ethyl hexyl pal mi tate
Myri s t yl 1 actate
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e
Celquat H-100 & L-200 P olyquaternium-4
Ceraphyl 60 Quaterni um-22
Ceraphyl 65 Quaterni um-26
Ceraphyl 140 Decyl ol eate
Ceraphyl 424 Myri s tyl myri s tate
Lonza
Maybrook
Hen kel
Henkel
Uni onCarb
Uni onCarb
Nat S tarch
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Trade-Named Raw Materials 597
RAW MATERIALS
Ceraphyl 047
Cerasynt GMS
Cerasynt I P
Cerasynt SD
Cerasynt WM
Cetal
C eti ol
C eti ol A
C eti ol B
C eti ol HE
C eti ol 5600
C eti ol LC
C eti ol MM
C eti ol R
C eti ol S
C eti ol SB45
C eti ol SN
C eti ol V
C eti ol 868
Chel CD
C i trof l ex- 2
Cl earl an
CMC 7HSSF
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Octyl dodecyl s tearoyl s tearate
Gl yceryl stearate
Gl ycol stearate SE
Gl yceryl stearate, pure
Gl yceryl s tearate/ s tearyl
al cohol /sodi um l aur yl s ul f ate
Cetyl al cohol
Ol eyl ol eate
Hexyl l aurate
Di butyl adi pate
PEG-7 gl yceryl cocoate
Ol eyl erucate
Coco- capryl ate/caprate
Myri sty1 myri s tate
Soya pol yol
Di octyl cycl ohexane
Shea butter
Cetearyl al cohol isononanoate
Decyl ol eate
I s ooctyl stearate
Cyclohexane diamine tetr a-
aceti c aci d
T ri ethyl c i t r a t e
Lanol i n
Cel l ul ose gum
SOURCE
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Amercho 1
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
C i ba-Gei gy
Morfl ex
Henkel
Aqualon
598 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
CMC 7LF/CMC 7MF C el l ul ose gum
Co-Gel1 A-2/0270
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic N-55
Col l agen Hydrol yzate Cosmetic 50
Col l agen KD
Col l agen Nati ve E xtra I %
Comperl an COD
Comperlan F
Comperlan HS
Comperlan KD
Comperlan KM
Comperlan LD
Comperlan LM
Comperl an LMD
Comperlan LP
Comperlan LS
Comperlan OD
Comperl an UDM
Comperl an VOD
Comperl an 100
Cosmedia Guar C261
Cosmedia Guar U
Cosmedi a Polymer
HSP 1180
Cocamide DEA
L i no1 eami de DEA
Stearami de MEA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Lauramide DEA
Laurami de MEA
Lauramide DEA
Lauramide MI P A
Cocamide DEA/Laureth-2
Oleamide DEA
X Undecylenamide MEA
Soyamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Guar hydroxypropyl tri moni um
chl ori de
Guar gum
Polyacrylamidomethylpropane
s ul f oni c aci d
SOURCE
Aqua1 on
Mayb roo k
Maybroo k
GI N
Maybroo k
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen ke 1
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henke
Henke
Hen ke
Trade-Named Raw Materials 599
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cosmowax K S tearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
Cremophor A25 S urfactant
Cremophor RD 40 S urfactant
Cremophor RH 40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor o i l
Cremophor RH 60 PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor o i l
Crodafos N-3 Neutral DEA-Oleth-3 phosphate
Crodafos SG
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol PTC
Crodawax GP 200
Crodesta SL 40
Cropepti de W
Crotei n ADW
Crotei n P
Crotei n SPO
Crovol A-70
Crovol M40
Cuti na AGS
Cuti na BW
cut
cut
cut
cut
na CBS
na CP/CP-A
na E24
na EGMS
PPG-5-ceteth 10
SOURCE
Croda
BAS F
BASF
BASF
BASF
Croda
Croda
PPG-2-myri sty1 ether propi onate Croda
P entaerythri tyl tetracaprate
S tearyl al cohol /PEG S tearate
Sucrose cocoate
AMP I s os tearyl hydrol yzed
wheat protei n
Steartri moni um hydroxyethyl
hydro1 yzed col 1 agen
Hydrolyzed animal protei n
PEG-60 almond gl yceri des
Corn o i l PEG-20 complex
Gl ycol di stearate
P ar ti al gl yceri des/ esters of
l ong chai n f a t t y aci ds
Mi xture
Cetyl pal mi tate
PEG-20-glyceryl s tearate
G1 ycol stearate
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Henkel
Henkel
Hen ke 1
Henkel
Hen ke 1
Hen kel
600 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
cut
cut
cut
cut
RAW MATERIALS
na GMS
na HR
na KD16
na LE
Cuti na LM
Cuti na MD/MD-A
Cuti na TS
Darvan No. 1
DC3225C
Dehydazol-types
Dehydol LS2 Deo
Dehydol LS3 Deo
Dehydol LS4 Deo
Dehymuls E
Dehymuls F
Dehymul s HRE-7
Dehymuls K
Dehymuls LS
Dehymuls SML
Dehymuls SMO
Dehymuls SMS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Gl yceryl stearate
Hydrogenated castor o i 1
G1 yceryl s tearate SE
G1 yceryl stearate/ sodi um
cetearyl s ul f ate
waxes, o i l s
Mi xture o f f a t t y al cohol s,
Gl yceryl s tearate
PEG-3-di s
Sodium PO
fonate
earate
ynaphthalene s ul -
Cyclomethicone/dimethicone
Cel l ul ose gum
Laureth-2
Laureth-3
Laureth-4
Mixed es ter emul s i f i er
Mi xture of f a t t y aci d esters,
f a t t y aci d s al ts & addi ti ves
cop01 yo1
Mi xture
Mi xture
S orbi tan mono1 aurate
S orbi tan monool eate
S orbi tan monostearate
SOURCE
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Vanderbi l t
DowCorning
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 601
RAW MATERIALS
Dehymuls SSO
Dehyquart A
Dehyquart C c r ys t.
Dehyquart DAM
Dehyquart E
Dehyquart LDB
Dehyquart LT
Dehyquart SP
Dehyton AB30
Dehyton G
Dehyton G-SF
Dehyton K
Dentphos K
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
S orbi tan sesqui o l eate
C etri moni um chl ori de
L auryl pyri di ni um chl ori de
Di stearyl di moni um chl ori de
Hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl
dimonium chl ori de
Laura1 konium chl ori de
Lauryl tri methyl ammonium
chl ori de
Quaterni um-52
Coco-betai ne
Cocoamphodiacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Cocami dopropyl betai ne
Di cal ci um phosphate di hydrate
Dermalcare DV-4232, GMS/SE, NI
Dermasome E L eci thi n/ tocopheryl acetate
Dermasome SOD Leci t h i n/superoxi de dimutase
Desaron Desamido col l agen/ hyal uroni c
aci d
D i ahol d A-503 AMP-Acrylates copolymer
Dimethicone Copolyol Resin Modi f i er
Dimethicone 350
Dimethi cone Copol yo1 S urfactant
DME Dimethyl ester
Dow 225 F l ui d Dimethicone
SOURCE
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen ke
Hen ke
Hen ke
Henke
Hen ke
Hen ke
Hen ke 1
Henkel
ChemMar k
ChemMa r k
G f N
Sandoz
UnionCarb
GE S i 1
Uni onCarb
duPont
DowCorn
602 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Dowanol DPM PPG-2 Methyl ether
Dowanol EPh Phenoxyethanol
Dow Corni ng Q2-3225C, Cyclomethicone/dimethicone
(22-5220 copolymer
Dow Corni ng 190/193 Dimethicone copolymer
Dow Corni ng 200 F l ui d Dimethicone
Dow Corni ng 245 F l ui d Cyclomethicone
345 F l ui d/ 344 F l ui d
Dow Corni ng 556 F l ui d P henyl tri methi cone
Dow Corni ng 593 Di methi cone/ tri methyl s i l oxy-
s i l i c a t e
Dow Corni ng 929 Emu1 s i on
DC-1932 S urfactant
Dowi ci l 200 Quaterni urn-1 5
D-Panthenol 50P P anthenol/propylene gl ycol
Drake01 7/9/10/19 Mi neral o i l
DV-3284 Sodi um i s ethi onate
Dymel A Dimethyl ether
SOURCE
Dow
Dow
DowCor n
DowCorn
DowCorn
DowCorn
DowCorn
DowCorn
DowCorn
DowCorn
Dow
BASF
Penreco
duPont
Eastman AQ Treated Pigment-Red, Ye1 low, Bl ack, White Eastman
Eastman AQ 38s Polymer/ACl 55s Polymer Eastman
Eastman Vi tami n 6-81 Vi tami n E acetate Eastman
Eastman Vi tami n E TPGS (20%) Eastman
E gal i a No. 72075 Perfume
EGMS-VA Gl ycol stearate Goldschmidt
Trade-Named Raw Materials 603
RAW MATERIALS
E l as ti n CLR
Eldew CL-301
E l efac 1-205
Emal ex CC-168
Emal ex GIWS330
Emalex GMS-7CAE
Emalex GMS-45RT
Emalex S.T.G.-R
Emalex 6300-DI ST
Emalex 6300 M-ST
Emcol CC-9
Emcol 4161L
Emersol 132
Emersol 871
Emeressence 1160
Emulgade 1000 N i
Emulgade A
Emulgade CL/CL Spec
Emulgade F
Emu
Emu
Emu
gade F Speci al
gade K
gade SE, 83
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Hydrolyzed animal el as ti n
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/octyl-
dodecyl / l auroyl gl utamate
Octyl dodecyl neopentanoate
Cetyl octanoate
POE (30) gl yceryl t r i i s o -
Gl yceryl monostearate
Gl yceryl monostearate (HLB5)
Hydrogenated o i l
PEG-150 Di stearate
PEG-150 monostearate
S urfactant
Disodium cocamido MI PA-sulfo-
stearate
succi nate
S teari c aci d XXX
I s os teari c aci d
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl al coho
Cetearyl al coho
Mi xture
Mi xture
/ceteareth- 20
/ l aureth- 10
SOURCE
Hen kel
A j i nomoto
Bernel
N i hon
A j i nomoto
N i hon
Ni hon
N i hon
N i hon
N i hon
W i tc o
W i tc o
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Cetearyl alcohol/PEG-40 Castor Henkel
Mi xture Henkel
Hen kel
o i 1
604 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Emulgator E2149
Emulgator E2155
Epolene N-34
E scal ol 507
E scal ol 567
Ethanol DEB 100
Ethomeeen C-25
Eumu gi n 61
Eumu gi n 82
Eumu gi n 83
Eumulgin C4
Eumulgin HRE 40
Eumulgin HRE 60
Eumulgin L
Eumulgin M8
Eumulgin 05
Eumulgin 010
Eumul gi n R040
Eumulgin SML 20
Eumulgin SMO 20
Eumulgin SMS 20
Eumulgin 286
Euperlan MPK 850
Euperlan PK 771
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
S tearyl al cohol / steareth- 7
S tearyl al cohol / steareth- 7/
steareth- 10
P ol yethyl ene wax
Octyl di methyl PABA
Benzophenone-3
PEG-1 5 cocami ne
Ceteareth-12
Ceteareth-20
Ceteareth-30
PEG-5-Cocami de
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oi l
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor o i l
PPG-2-ceteareth-9
Ol eth- l O/ ol eth- 5
01 eth- 5
Oleth-10
PEG-40 castor o i l
P ol ysorbate 20
P ol ysorbate 80
P ol ysorbate 60
Nonoxynol-10
Mi xture
P earl y gl oss concentrate
SOURCE
Go1 dschmi dt
Go1 dschmi dt
Eastman
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Akzo
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 605
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Euperlan PK 776/ P earl y gl oss concentrate
European E l as ti n-30 Hydrolyzed e l as ti n
Eusolex 4360 Benzophenone-3
Eusolex 6300 Methyl benzyl i dene camphor
Eusolex 8020
Eutanol G, G16 Octyl dodecanol
Eutanol G318
Extrapone 3 Speci al 2/789490 Dragoco Complex
Extrapon 5 Speci al
PK 789/PK 010/PK 900/PK 3000
F i nsol v SB
F i nsol v TN
F i toderm
Flexan 130
F orl ani t E
Gafquat HS-I 00
Gafquat 734/755
Gafquat 755N
Gantrez A-425
Gantrez ES-225
Gantrez ES425
I s os tearyl benzoate
C12-15 al kyl benzoate
Squal ane
Sodi um pol ystyrene s ul f ate
Hydroxycetyl phosphate
P olyquaternium-28
Cati oni c copolymer
Poyquaternium-11
E thyl es ter o f PVM/MA
PVM/MA copolymer
SOURCE
Hen ke 1
Mayb roo k
EM I ndus t
EM I ndust
EM I ndust
Henkel
Hen kel
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
F i netex
F i netex
Centerchem
Nat S tarch
Henkel
ISP
I S P
ISP
ISP
I SP
ISP
606 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Gantrez V-215 Resin
Gantrez V-225 Resin
Gantrez V-425 Resin
Gantrez XL-80
Geahl ene
Gel ami de 250F
Gel co
Gel i ta Sol C
Genagen CA-050
Genagen CAB
Genamin CTAC
Genamin DSAC
Genapol AMG
Genapol CRT 40
Genapol L-3
Genapol LRO l i q u i d
Genapol PGL
Genapol PGM l i q u i d
Genapol PMS
Genapol SBE
Genapol TS powder
Genapol TSM
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Monoethyl ester ISP
E thyl es ter o f PVM/MA copolymer I S P
Butyl es ter o f PVM/MA copolymer ISP
PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer I S P
Complex
P ol yacryl ami de ( mi l l ed) Am Cyan
Gel ati n Maybroo k
Hydrolyzed col l agen D t . gel
PEG-5 cocami de Hoechst
Cocamidopropyl betai ne Hoechst
Cet r i moni um chl o r i de Hoechst
Di stearyl di moni um chl ori de Hoechst
Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamidosulfate Hoechst
DEA l aur yl sul phate Hoechst
Laureth-3 Hoechst
Sodi um 1 aureth sul f ate Hoechst
Gl ycol di stearate/Cocami de MEA/ Hoschst
PPG-4-Deceth-4
Sodium l aureth s ul f ate/ gl ycol Hoechst
di stearate/cocamide MEA
Gl ycol di stearate Hoechst
Disodium l aureth sul fosucci nate Hoechst
PEG-3 di stearate Hoechst
PEG-3 di stearate/ sodi um l aureth Hoechst
s ul f ate
RAW MATERIALS
Genapol UD-030
Genapol ZRO l i q u i d
Genapol 122
Generol 122E5
Generol 122E10
Generol 122E16
Generol 122E25
Germaben I I / I I E
Germall I 1
Germall 115
Trade-Named Raw Materials 607
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Undeceth-3
Sodium l aureth su
Soya s ter ol
PEG5 soya s terol
PEG-10-soya s tero
Hoechst
f ate Hoechst
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
PEG-16-soya s terol
PEG-25-soya s ter ol
Bacteri ci de/ fungi ci de
D i azo1 i di nyl urea
I mi dazol i di nyl urea
Henkel
Henkel
S utton
S utton
S utton
Geropon AC-78/NP & AS-200 & SBR-3 & T-77
Glucam E-20 Methyl gl uceth- 20 Amerc ho 1
Glucamate DOE 120 PEG-120 methyl gl ucose di ol eate Amerchol
G1 ucamate SSE-2D
Gl ucate DO
Gl ucate SS
G1 ydant
G r i 1 1 ocose PS
Gr i l l oten LSE 65K
G r i 1 l oten LSE 87K
Gr i l l oten PSE 141G
PEG-20 methyl gl ucose sesqui -
Methyl gl ucose di ol eate
Methyl glucose sesqui stearate
DMDM hydantoi n
Methyl gl ucose sesqui stearate
Sucrose cocoate
Sucrose cocoate
Sucrose cocoate
stearate
Amerchol
Ame r c ho 1
Amercho 1
Lonza
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
608 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Hamp-ene Na2
Hamp-ene 220
Hamposyl L-30
HD-Eutanol
HDK HIB/HDK H20/
HDK N20/HDK N20P
Hest CSO
Hest E . G. D. S .
Hest G-7-TO
Hest GC-7
Hest I S-2-0
Hest L-2-0
Hest MS
Hetai ne CLA
Hetamide MA
Hetamide RC
Hetan SS
Hetester HCA
Hetester HCP
Hetester PHA
Hetester PMA
Hetl an AC
Hetol CA
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
D i sodi um EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA
F atty aci d sarcosi nate
Ol eyl a
S i l i c a
Ceteary
EGDS
coho1
octanoate
Gl ycereth- 7 tri octanoate
PEG-7 Gl yceryl cocoate
I sosteareth- 2 octanoate
Laureth-2 octanoate
Myri s tyl s tearate
Canolami dopropyl betai ne
Acetamide MEA
Cocamide DEA
S orbi tan s tearate
Gl yceryl tr i ac etyl hydroxy-
stearate
PPG-3 hydrogenated castor o i l
P ropylene gl ycol i soceteth- 3
acetate
SOURCE
WRGrace
WRG r ace
WRGrace
Henkel
Wacker
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
P ropylene gl ycol myri s tyl ether Heterene
acetate
Acetyl ated 1 anol i n Heterene
Cetyl al cohol Heterene
Trade-Named Raw Materials 609
RAW MATERIALS
Hetol CS
Hetoxmate SA-40
Hetoxamate SA-100
Hetoxamate 100s
Hetoxi de G-7
Hetoxi de G-26
Hetoxol D
Hetoxol G
Hetoxol L-2
Hetoxol L-4
Hetoxol P
Hetsorb L-20
Hetsorb L-80
Hi-Care 1000
Hoe S3267
Hostaceri n CG
Hostaceri n DGI
Hostaceri n DGL
Hostaceri n DGMS
Hostaceri n DGS
Hostaceri n KW340N
Hostaceri n LSE
Hostaceri n PN 73
Hostaceri n WO
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cetearyl al cohol
PEG-40 s tearate
PEG-100 s tearate
PEG-100 stearate
Gl ycereth- 7
Gl ycereth- 26
Cetearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
S tearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
Laureth-12
Laureth-4
Emu1 s i f y i ng wax
P ol ysorbate 20
PEG-80 s orbi tan l aurate
Cocami dopropyl betai ne
81 end
Pol ygl yceryl -2 sesqui i so-
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 l aurate
P ol ygl yceryl - 2- stearate
P ol ygl yceryl - 2 PEG-4 stearate
Tri ceteareth- 4 phosphate
Sucrose l aurate
Acrylamide/sodium acryl ate
Mi xture
stearate
SOURCE
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Heterene
Hoechst
Hoec h s t
Hoechst
Hoec h s t
Hoecsht
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
610 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Hostaceri n WOL
Hostaphat KL340N
Hostaphat KW340N
Hostapon CT paste
Hostapon KTW
Hostapon KTW neu
Hostapon KCG
Hostapon LEC
Hostaoon SCHC
Hostapon SCI
Hostapon S C I D
Hostapur SAS 60
Hydagen CAT
Hydagen DE0
Hydagen P
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
81 end
T ri l aureth- 4 phosphate
Tri ceteareth- 4 phosphate
Sodi urn methyl cocoyl taurate
Sodi urn l auroyl taurate
Sodi urn cocoyl 1 aurate
Sodi urn cocoyl gl utamate
Laureth-3 carboxyl i c aci d
Sodi um cocoyl hydrol yzed
col 1 agen
Sodium cocoyl i s ethi onate
Sodi urn cocoyl i s ethi onate
Sodium C14-17 sec. al kyl
sul fonate
T ri ethyl c i trate/BHT
Di ethyl ene tri casei nami de
SOURCE
Hoec h st
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoec h s t
Hoechst
Hoec h s t
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hoechst
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hydrotri ti cum QL/2000 Hydrol yzed whole wheat protei n
Hygroderm "Moi s tur i z i ng"-Factor Novarome
Hystar CG Hydrogenated s tarch hydrol ysate Lonza
Hystrene 7018 F atty aci ds W i tc o
Trade-Named Raw Materials 611
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
I gepal CO-630 Noni oni c s urf actant Rhone-Poul
I ncroquat Behenyl TMS Behentrimonium methosul fate/ Croda
Xsolan GI34 P ol ygl yceryl - 4 i s os tearate Go1 dschmi d t
I varl an AWS PPG-12 PEG-65 l anol i n o i l Brooks
#I Y-67 Fragrance Novarome
cetearyl al cohol
J aguar C13S/l4S/ Guar gum
C14 COS/C17/Cl62/HP-S/HP-60
Kathon CG
Kaydol
F ungi ci de
Mi neral o i l
Kel t r o l /CG-T/G-T/ Xanthan gum
RD/T
Kera-Quat WRP K erati n
Kera-Tein AA K erati n amino aci ds
Kera-Tein 1000/1000SD Hydrol yzed kerati n
Kera-Tein 1000 AS E thyl es ter o f hydrol yzed
ker ati n
Kessco GMS-SE Gl yceryl s tearate SE
Kessco PEG 6000 DS PEG-150 di s tearate
Kl ucel G Hydroxypropyl cel l ul ose
K r i s ti ne K/19718 Perfume
H i -Tek
Rohm&Haas
Sonneborn
Kelco
Maybrook
Maybroo k
Maybrook
Maybrook
Stepan
Stepan
Aqua1 on
Robertet
612 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Lact i 1
Lamaci t GML-PO
Lamecreme KS/KSM
Lamecreme LPM
Lamepon PA-TR
Lamepon S
Lamepon ST40/S-TR
Lamepon UD
Lamequat L
Lamesoft LMG
Lamesoft 156
Lanepene
Laneto AWS
Laneto-50
Lanette E
Lanette N
Lanette 0
Lanette SX/W
Lanette 14
Lanette 16
Lanette 18
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
B1 end Goldschmidt
PEG-20 gl yceryl l aurate Henkel
Gl yceryl stearate Henkel
Base f or o/w-type creams, s/e Henkel
TEA-abi etoyl - hydrol yzed protei n Henkel
P otassi um coco-hydrolyzed Henkel
ani mal protei n
TEA-Coco-hydrolyzed animal Henkel
protei n
Potassium undecylenoyl hydro- Henkel
l yzed animal protei n
Cati oni zed col l agen hydrol yzate Henkel
Gl yceryl 1 aurate (and) TEA- Henkel
Hydrogenated tal l ow gl yceri des/ Henkel
coco-hydrolyzed animal protei n
TEA-Coco-hydrolyzed animal protei n
Complex
PPG-12, PPG-50 1 anol i n
PEG-75 1 anol i n
Sodi um cetearyl s ul f ate
Cetearyl al cohol /sodi um
cetearyl s ul f ate
Cetearyl al cohol
Cetearyl al cohol /sodi um l aur yl
s ul f ate
Myri sty1 al cohol
Cetyl al cohol
S tearyl al cohol
R i ta
R i ta
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 613
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Lanette 22 Behenyl a1 coho1
Lanol i n USP
L anol i n X-TRA DE0
L antrol L i qui d l anol i n
L antrol AWS 1692 PPG-12 PEG-65 l anol i n o i l
L antrol 1673 L anol i n o i l
Lemon P assion F r ui t Complex
Lexate CRC
Lexemul EGMS
Lexemul 55/55G/55SE
Lexemul 561
Lexemul EGMS
Lexgard M
Lexgard P
Lex01 IPM
Lexorez 100
Li pocol SC-4
L i p0 GMS 450
L i p0 I P P
Li ponate GC
Li poni c EG-1
L i popeg 6000DS
Stearamidopropyl di methyl /
gl ycol stearate/ ceteth- 2
Gl ycol s tearate
Gl yceryl s tearate
Gl yceryl stearate/PEG-100
Gl ycol stearate
Methyl paraben
P ropyl paraben
I sopropyl myri s tate
Gl yceri n/ di ethyl ene gl ycol /
stearate
adi pate crosspolymer
Ceteareth- 4
Gl yceryl stearate
I sopropyl pal mi tate
Capryl i c/ capri c tr i gl yc er i de
Gl ycereth- 26
PEG-150 D i s tearate
SOURCE
Henkel
R i ta
R i ta
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Centerchem
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
I nol ex
L i po
L i PO
L i po
L i po
L i po
L i PO
614 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Li po- P epti de AME-30
L i posorb P-20
Lipowax D
L i ght Mask 169-119
#LK-40 Fragrance
Locron L/P
Lovocryl 47
Lunacera M
L uvi f l ex VBM 35
Luvimer l OOP
Luvi quat FC370/
Mono CP
L uvi set CAP
Luvi skol VA37E/VA37I
Luvi skol VA64/VA73W/
VAP343 E
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Acetamide MEA/Lauroyl hydrol y-
zed col agen/ gl yceri n
S orbi tan ester
Cetearyl al cohol /ceteareth- 20
Fragrance
A1 umi num chl orohydrate
OAC-2
Mi crocrystal 1 i ne wax
P VP /acrylates copolymer
Acryl ates copolymer
P ol yquaterni um
V i nyl acetate/ crotoni c aci d/
vi nyl propi onate copolymer
P ol vi nyl pyrrol i done
P VP /VA copolymer
SOURCE
Maybroo k
L i PO
L i PO
Novarome
Nat S tarch
HB F ul l er
BASF
BASF
BASF
Sherex
BASF
BASF
Mackalene 116/316/326 Ami ne s a l t surfactant McI n tyr e
426/716
Mackam CET Amphoteric s urf actant McI ntyr e
Mackam J Cocami dopropyl betai ne McI ntyr e
Mackam WGB Amphoteric s urf actant McI n t yr e
Mackam 2C D i sodi um cocamphodi acetate McI n tyr e
Mackam 35/35HP Amphoteric s urf actant McI ntyr e
Trade-Named Raw Materials 615
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Mackamide CMA/LLM/PKM Alkanolamide s urf actant
Mackami ne CAO/WGO Ami ne oxi de s urf actant
Mackamine DC-50/EL/ S ul fosucci nate s urf actant
LA/LO-Special/OD-35/OM/OP /WGD
Mackerni um 007 Quaternary ammonium s a l t
Mackester EGDS/EGMS E ster
Macki ne 301 /601
Mackol 70NS
Mackpro Condi ti oner
Mackpro WLW
Mackstat DM
Magnabri t e HV Magnesi um aluminum s i 1 i cate
Mari ne-Dew/PC-100 P ar ti al l y deacetyl ated chi t i n
Mayphos OL3N
May Tei n
Maytein C
Maytei n CT
Maytei n SY
Maywax D
DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate
Sodi um/TEA Lauryl hydrol yzed
kerati n
Potassium cocoyl hydrol yzed
col 1 agen
TEA-cocoyl hydro1 yzed col 1 agen
TEA-cocoyl hydrol yzed soy
Cetearyl a1 coho1 /ceteareth- 20
protei n
Maywax P E mul si fyi ng wax, NF
Medialan LD Sodi um 1 auroyl sarcosi nate
Men's Fragrance A62119/794456
Merquat 280 Polymer
Merquat 550 P ol yquaterni um-7
SOURCE
Mc I nt yr e
McI ntyr e
Mc I n t yr e
McI n t yr e
McI n t yr e
Mci ntyr e
McI ntyr e
Mc I ntyr e
Mc I ntyr e
McI ntyr e
Am C ol l oi d
A] i nomoto
Maybrook
Maybroo k
Maybrook
Maybroo k
Maybroo k
Maybrook
Maybroo k
Haarman&
Cal gon
Cal gon
616 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Methocel E4M/40-202 Hydroxypropyl methyl cel l ul ose
Methyl Gluceth-PO
Mi cro Ace P-2 Tal c
Mink O i l , Heavy F racti on/ L i ght F racti on
Mi racare CT-100/MPC/SCS/XL
Mi ranol C2M conc. Di sodi um cocoamphodi acetate
Mi ranol C2M Conc. NP Cocoamphodiacetate
Mi ranol CZM-SF Conc. S urfactant
Mi ranol DM Conc.(45%) S urfactant
Mi ranol MHT Lauroamphoglycinate/trideceth
s ul f ate
Mi ranol U l tr a C-32, Surface acti ve agent
Mi rapol A-15, 133, 550
M i rasheen 202
M i r atai ne BET-C-30, S urfactant
BET-0-30, CBC, CBS, COB, TM
Moi s turi z i ng Liposome Complex
Monamate CPA-40 Di sodi um cocami do MIPA-su1 fo-
succi nate
Monamate OPA-30 D i sodi um o l eami do PEG-2
sul fosucci nate
Monamid CMA Cocamide MEA
Monamid 150 ADD
Monamid 150LW, 716 Lauramide DEA
Monaquat P-TC Cocami dopropyl PG-di moni um
Monomuls 90-L 12 Gl yceryl l aurate
chl ori de
SOURCE
Dow
Arne r c ho 1
Emu1 an
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Hen kel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 617
RAW
Monomu
MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
s 90-0 18
Monateri c CAB Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Monateri c ISA-35 Sodium I sostearoamphoprop-
i onate
Monateri c l l 00M
M-Quat 50-50 01 ea1 koni um chl ori de
Mulgofen ON-870
Myvatex Texture L i te, E mul s i f i er
Myvatex 60
Myverol 18-06
Myri tol 318
Nadex 360
Nasuna B
Natrosol 250 HHR/
250 HHX/250 HR
Nature Chem CR
Nature Chem OHS
Natural E xtract DP
Hydrogenated soy gl yceri de
Capryl i c/ capri c tr i gl yc er i de
PVP/Va copolymer
Hydroxyethyl cel l ul os e
Cetyl r i c i nol eate
Octyl hydroxystearate
T r i methyl gl yci ne
Nature' s Herbal #165-050 Fragrance
Neobee M-5 Capryl i c/ capri c tr i gl yc er i de
Neo-He1 i opan AV Octyl methoxycinnamate
Neo-He1 i opan BB Benzophenone-3
Neo-Heliopan E1000 I soamyl p-methoxycinnamate
Neo-PC1 Water S ol ubl e Trideceth-S/PEG-3 octanoate
N-Hance Guar hydroxypropyl tri moni um
chl ori de
SOURCE
Henkel
Mona
Mona
Mona
PPG
Rhone
Eastman
Henkel
Nat S tarch
Henkel
Aqualon
CasChem
CasChem
R i ta
S t epan
Haa r ma n
Haarman
Haarman
Dragoco
Aqua1 on
618 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
N i kkol MYS-55 PEG-55 stearate
Ni kkol TL-10 P ol ysorbate 20
Ni kkol WC8
Ni pastat M i crobi oci de
Novarome Tuberose MG-02
Novata Types Cocogl yceri des
Novi 11 e #24093/ Fragrance
#27986/#28819/#31337/#31563/#84504
Nutr i l an H/I /I -SO/L P rotei n par ti al hydrol yzate,
sodium s a l t
Octopi rox
OH1 an
Olamin K
Omadi ne
P i roctone ol ami ne
Hydrogenated l anol i n
Prep o f hydrogen peroxi de
f i xati ves f o r c ol d waves
Zi nc pyri thi one, 48%
Orgasol 2002D E xtra Natural Cos: Nylon-12
Ottasept E xtra Bacteri ci de, f ungi c i c i de
Ozokeri te Wax J H1680
Ozokeri te Wax #E71 Beaded
SOURCE
Ni kko
N i kko
Ni kko
N i pa
Henke
Novi 1
Hen ke
e
Hoechst
Amerchol
Henkel
Ol i n
Atochem
F erro
Ross
Ross
Panthenol
Paragon I 1
P arsol MCX
P ati oni c I S L
Tri - K
P reservati ve Mc I n t yr e
Octyl methoxycinnamate G i vaudan
Na I sostearoyl l ac tyl ate R i ta
Trade-Named Raw Materials 619
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON SOURCE
P ati oni c SSL Sodi um stearoyl l ac tyl ate Ri ta
Pat i oni c 138C Sodi um 1 auroyl 1 actyl ate R i ta
P atl ac I L I s os tearyl l ac tyl ate R i ta
P atl ac LA L acti c acid-88% R i ta
P atl ac NAL Sodi um l ac tate R i ta
Peach F l or al 92F/3235 Fragrance FragResourc
Pecogel H-12
Pecosi 1 CAP-1240
Pecosi 1 RS-100
Pecosi 1 SMQ-40
Pecosi 1 SPB-1240
P ecosi l SSP
Pecosi 1 SWP-83/
SWPQ- 40
Pecosi 1 WDS-100/
WDS-200
PEG-75 Lanol i n
Pelan AC
Pelemol BB
Pelemol DI A
Pelemol EE
Pelemol GMS
Pelemol GS
Pelemol GTB
PVP/Polycarbamyl pol ygl ycol Phoenix
es ter
S i l i cone quaternium-9 Phoenix
Dimethicone copol yol phosphate Phoenix
S i 1 i cone quaterni um-5 Phoenix
S i l i cone quaternium-6 Phoen
Hydrol yzed soy protein/DCP Phoen
Hydrolyzed wheat protei n/ Phoen
copolymer
Dimethicone copol yol phosphate
Dimethi cone copol yol phosphate Phoenix
Cetyl acetate/ acetyl ated
l anol i n al cohol
Eiehenyl behenate
D i i sopropyl adi pate
E i cosyl erucate
Gl yceryl stearate
Gl yceryl s tearate
G1 yceryl t ri behenate
Henkel
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
620 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
Pelemol G7A
Pelemol ICB
Pelemol I SB
Pelemol I S L
Pelemol OP
Pelemol OPG
Pelemol SPO
Pelemol 89
Pelemol 2022
P elox P3M
Pemulen TR-l/TR-2
Permethyl 101A/102A
P ermulgin 3510
Permulgi n 4200
Phoenoni p
Phoenamid CD
Phoenami de LD
Phoenate SLES-70
Phoenate 3DSA
Phoenate 200 DL
P hoenatri c CAB
Phoenoxide STA-2
Phoenoxi de STA-100
Phoenoxol T
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON
Gl ycereth- 7 tr i ac etate
I s oceteth behenate
I s os tearyl behenate
I s os tearyl l ac tate
Octyl pal mi tate
Octyl pel argonate
C etyl / s tearyl octanoate
Octyl I sononanoate
Octyl dodecyl behenate
Acrylates/ClO-30 a1 kyl
acryl ate crosspolymer
Isoeicosane/Isoostahexacontane
Beeswax/vaseline
Mi crocrystal 1 i ne wax
P henoxyethanol/etc.
Cocamide DEA
Laurami de DEA
Sodi um 1 aureth s ul f ate
PEG-3 di stearate
PEG-4 di l aurate
Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Steareth- 2
Steareth-100
Cetearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
SOURCE
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoen
Phoenix
Phoenix
BFGoodrich
P resperse
KosterKeun
KosterKeun
Ni pa
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Phoenix
Trade-Named Raw Materials 621
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Phosphol i pi d EFA L i no1 ami dopropyl PG-di moni um
chl ori de phosphate
Phosphol i p i d SV
P hytelene Complex Complex chamical
P l antaren 2000
P l antaren PS 10/2000/2000 VP
EGX-243/EGX-244
PNC 400
Pol awax
P ol ycare 133
P ol ydi ol 400
Polymer J RBOM
Polymer J R400/LR400
PO1 OX WSR-3000
P ol yquart HE1
P ol yquta 3000
P ol yvi ol W25/140
Pol awax
PPG-10 Cetyl Ether
Sodium carbomer
E mul si fyi ng wax, NF
Polyquaternium-10
PEG- 14M
PEG-15 Coco polyamine
P ol yquaterni um-10
P ol yvi nyl al cohol
E mul si fyi ng wax NF
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
P r i s ori ne GTIS Gl ycerol tri i sostearate
P rocetyl 10 PPG-10 c etyl ether
P rocol OA-10 01 eth-10
Prodew 100 Sorbi tol / sodi um l actate/ etc.
Prodew 300 Sodium l actate/ sodi um PCA/etc
SOURCE
Mona
Mona
Henkel
Hen kel
3v
Croda
Henkel
Uni onCarb
Amercho 1
Uni onCarb
Henkel
R i ta
Croda
Croda
Amerc ho 1
Uni chema
Croda
Protameen
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
622 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
P roduct SE-100
Promois ECP
Promulgen D
Promulgen G
P ropal
P rosol al S9
Protachem SMO
P rotasorb L- 20
P rotasorb 0-20
Pro-Tei n ES-20
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON
Gl yceryl stearate/PEG-100
Col 1 agen
Cetearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
S tearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
I sopropyl pal mi tate
stearate
S orbi tan 01 eate
P ol ysorbate 20
P ol ysorbate 80
E thyl es ter o f hydrol yzed
col 1 agen
Proto-Lan 4R Cocoyl hydrol yzed col l agen/ etc
P roto-Lan 8 L eci thi n/ etc.
Proto-Lan 30 P ropyl ene gl ycol / etc I
Pur-Cel 1 i n L i qui d/Sol i d
PVP K-GO/PVP K-SO/PVP K-30
P VP /VA E335/E535/735 PVP/VA Copolymer
Pyocide 5192 I ns ecti ci de concentrate
P yroter CPI-40 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor
P yroter GPI-25
o i l PCA i s os tearate
SOURCE
Heterene
R i ta
Arne r c ho 1
Ame r c ho 1
Amerchol
Dragoco
Protameen
Protameen
Protameen
Maybrook
Maybrook
Maybrook
Maybrook
Dragoco
ISP
ISP
MG K
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
Trade-Named Raw Materials 623
RAW MATERIALS
Quat-Pro E
Quat-Pro S/S30
Red & Bl ue Nuggets
Resyn 26-1314
Resyn 28-2913
Resyn 28-2930
Rewolan AWS
Rhodacal A-246L
Rhodacal A246LX
Rhodacal DDB-40
Rhodafac RS 610
Rhodapex ESY
Rhodapex MA360
Rhodapex NA61
Rhodapon ESY
Rhodapon L-22 HNC
Rhodapon LSB
Rhodapon LT-6
Rhodapon SI3 8208s
Rhodaquat M242B/99
Rhodaquat M270C/18
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Tri ethoni um hydrol yzed col l agen Maybrook
S tearyl tri moni um hydroxy ethyl Maybrook
ethos ul f ate
hydro1 yzed col 1 agen
Mi neral o i l i n gel ati n mi cro- RT Dodge
capsul es
Nat S tarch
Nat S tarch
Nat S tarch
PEG-75 L anol i n o i l
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
624 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON
Rhodaquat 7LVF
Rhodi gel Xanthan gum
Rhodigel E2 Xanthan gum
R i l ani t GMO G1 yceryl o l eate
R i l ani t GMRO Gl yceryl r i c i nol eate
R i ta CA Cetyl al cohol
R i ta Cetearyl Al cohol
R i tachol
R i tachol 2000/5000
R i taderm
R i ta EGDS
R i ta GMS
R i ta IPM
R i tal an
R i tal an C
R i tal oe 200M
Ri tami de C
Ri tapan D
Ri tapan DL
R i ta PEO-1
R i ta PEO-2
Ri tapeg 150 DS
R i taphenone-3
R i tap1 ast/5OW
Mi neral o i l / l a no l i n al cohol
R. I . T. A. bl end
R . I . T . A . b 1 end
Gl ycol di stearate
G1 ycerol monostearate
I sopropyl myri s tate
L anol i n o i l
SOURCE
Rhone
Henkel
Henkel
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
I sopropyl pal mi tate/ l anol i n o i l R i ta
Al oe vera gel R i ta
Cocamide DEA R i ta
d-panthenol R i ta
dl-pantheno R i ta
PEG-5M R i ta
PEG-9M pol y thyl ene oxi de R i ta
PEG-1 50 di stearate R i ta
Benzophenone-3 R i ta
Mi neral oi 1 / pol yethyl ene R i ta
Trade-Named Raw Materials 625
RAW MATERI ALS
R i tapro 100/165
Ri tapro 300
R i ta SA
Ri tasynt I P
Ri tavena 5
Ritawax ALA
Ritawax 15
Robane
Rovisone ACE
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON
R . I . T . A . bl end
Cetearyl al cohol / ceteareth- 20
S tearyl al cohol
R . I . T . A . bl end
Hydrolyzed oat f l our
R. I . T. A. bl end
Laneth-15
Squalane, NF
Vi tami n bl end
Sandopan LS-24
S ati n F i ni s h Complex
SF 18 (350) S i l i cone F l ui d: Dimethicone
Shampoo Fragrance A62120/794457
Shebu Refi ned Shea butter
Shebu WS PEG-50 shea butter
S hel l ac Wax MHP105 DO
S hel l sol D70 P etroleum d i s t i l l a t e s
S i l bi one 70047 V300/70646/71634
S i l i cone SF-1173
S i l i cone 566 F l ui d
S i 1 k Pro-Tei n Hydrolyzed s i 1 k
Si 1 wax WD-F/WS-L
S i mchi n Ref i ned J ojoba o i l
SOURCE
A i t a
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
R i ta
Dow Corn
Haarman
R i ta
R i ta
MHPShellac
She1 1
GE S i l i cone
DowCorn
Maybroo k
S i 1 tech
R i ta
626 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
Sipon ES-2
Sipon ESY
Sol ul an L-575/75
S ol ul an 98
Sorbo
Soy-Quat C
Soy-Tein NL
Span 80
Spheron P-1500
Standamid KD
Standamul 1616
Standapol A
Standapol EA-2
Standapol EA-3
Standapol ES-2
Standapol ES-3
Standapol T
Standapol WAQ Spec.
S tearal
Stepanhold E xtra
Stepanhold R-1
Stepanol AM
Stepanol WAT
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Sodium l aureth s ul f ate
Sodium l aureth- 1 s ul f ate
PEG-75 1 anol i n
P ol ysorbate 80/ cetyl acetate/
acetyl ated l anol i n al cohol
Sorbi to1 , 70%
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl
hydrol yzed soy protei n
Hydrolyzed soy protei n
S orbi tan ol eate
S i l i c a
Cocamide DEA
Cetyl pal mi tate
Ammonium l aur yl sul ate
Ammonium l aureth su f ate
Ammonium l aureth s ul f ate (27%)
Sodium l aureth- 2 s ul f ate
Sodium l aureth- 3 s ul f ate
TEA l aur yl s ul f ate
Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate
S tearyl al cohol
Hai rspray res i n
Hai rspray res i n
Ammoni um 1 auryl s ul f ate
TEA l aur yl s ul f ate
SOURCE
Rhone
Rhone
Ame r c ho 1
Ame r c ho 1
I C 1
Maybrook
Maybr oo k
I C 1
Hen kel
Henkel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Hen kel
Henkel
Amerc ho 1
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Trade-Named Raw Materials 627
RA W MATERI ALS
Ster-0-P ro
Sufadone LP-300
Sulfopan 101/
101 spec. / l 03
Sunarome UVA
Sunburst 94F/2197
Sunflower Fragrance
Super Sat AWS-4
Super Solan Flaked
Supro-Tein S
Suoro-Tein V
S uttoci de A
Syncrowax HR-C
Syntase 230
S yntheti c Beeswax J H-
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON SOURCE
Oat f l o ur QO
ISP
Sodi um 1 auryl s ul f ate Henkel
Menthyl anthrani l ate F el ton
Fragrance
12294 Chemi a
PEG-24 hydrogenated l anol i n R i ta
Croda
Sodium cocoyl hydrol yzed soy Maybrook
TEA-cocoyl-hydrolyzed col l agen/ Maybrook
protei n/ sorbi to1
sorbi to1
Sodium hydroxymethyl gl yci nate Sutton
Gl yceryl tri behenate
UV absorber
508
Croda
Nevi 11 e
628 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERI ALS
Tagat I 2
Tagat L
Tagat S
Tagat TO
Tefose 2561
Tegamine Oxide WS35
Tegi n
Tegi naci d
Tegi naci d H
Tego Betai ne F/F50
Tego Beta
Tego Beta
Tego Pear
ne HS
ne L-7
8-48
Tego P earl N l O O
Tegosoft CT
Tegosoft EE
Tegosoft GC
Tegosoft M
Tegosoft OP
Tegosoft OS
Tegosoft P
Tegosoft SH
Tegosoft 189
CHEMICAL DESCRI PTI ON
PEG-20 gl yceryl i sostearate
PEG-30 gl yceryl l aurate
PEG-30 gl yceryl s tearate
PEG-25 gl yceryl t r i o l e a t e
PEG-6 stearate/ gl yceryl stear-
Cocami dopropyl ami ne oxi de
Gl yceryl stearate SE
Gl yceryl stearate/ ceteareth- 20
Gl yceryl stearate/ ceteth- 20
Cocami dopropyl betai ne
Cocami dopropyl betai ne/
ate/ ceteth- 20
gl yceryl l aurate
Cocamidopropyl betai ne
Cocami dopropyl betai ne/ etc.
Gl ycol di stearate/ steareth- 4
Capryl i c/ capri c tr i gl yc er i des
Octyl octanoate
PEG-7 gl yceryl cocoate
I sopropyl myri s tate
Octyl pal mi tate
Octyl s tearate
I sopropyl pal mi tate
S tearyl heptanoate
I sooctadecyl isononanoate
SOURCE
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Gattefosse
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi dt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Trade-Named Raw Materials 629
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
T er gi tol NP-10 S urfactant
Uni onCarb
Texamid types Sodium al gi nates
Henkel
Texapol LS lOOF Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate Henkel
Texapon A/ALS Ammonium l aur yl s ul f ate Henkel
Texapon ASV Mi xture o f speci al f a t t y Henkel
Texapon CS P aste Mi xture o f f a t t y al cohol Henkel
Texapon EVR Sodium l aur yl ether s ul f ate Henkel
Texapon IES MI P A-laureth sul fate/cocami de Henkel
Texapon K12 granul es Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate (C12) Henkel
Texapon K14S spec. Sodium l aur yl myr i s tyl ether Henkel
Texapon K1296 Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate, pure Henkel
Texapon LS needles Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate Henkel
ASV 70 Speci al al cohol ether s ul f ates
s ul f ates
wi th speci al addi ti ves
DEA
K12 needles/K12 powder
s ul f ate
Texapon M Monoethanolamine l aur yl ether Henkel
s ul f ate
Texapon MG Magnesium l aur yl ether s ul f ate Henkel
Texapon MGS Magnesium l aur yl s ul f ate Henkel
TexaDon MLS Monoethanol ammoni um l aur yl Henkel
s ul f ate
Texapon NA Ammonium l aureth s ul f ate Hen kel
Texapon N25/N40 Sodium l aureth s ul f ate Henkel
Texapon N70/N70LS Sodium l aur yl ether s ul f ate Henkel
N103/NSO
630 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RA W MATERIALS
Texapon NT
Texapon OT needles
Texapon SB3
Texapon SBN
Texapon SG
Texapon T42/TH
Texapon V
Texapon WW99
Texapon 2
Timeron MP-lOOl/SI
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
TEA-laureth s ul f ate Hen kel
Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate Henkel
D i sodi um l aureth sul fosucci nate Henkel
Sodi urn 1 aureth sul f ate/ di sodium Henkel
1 aureth sul fosucci nate
Sodium l aur yl ether s ul f ate
wi th speci al addi ti ves
TEA l aur yl s ul f ate
Sodi um 1 auryl s ul f ate
MI P A-laureth sul fate/cocamide
DEA
Sodium l aur yl s ul f ate
Ti tani um di oxi de/ mi ca
Timeron Super Copper Mi ca/Ti tani um di oxi de
Super Gold/Super Red/Pearl Whi te
T i ovei 1 AQ/AQ-G Ti 02 di spersed
T i ovei l OP Octyl pal mi tate/ ti tani um
di oxi de
T i ovei l TG Ti 02 di spersed
TL-10 PEG-20 s orbi tan monolaurate
Trideceth-S/PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor O i l
T r i s Amino T r i s (hydroxymethyl) amino-
T r i ton A-100/X-100 S urfactant
T r i ton 2-100 Octoxynol-9
Turpi nal SL E ti droni c aci d
Turpi nal 4NL Tetrasodium eti dronate
methane
Hen ke
Henke
Henkel
Hen kel
Hen kel
T i oxi de
T i oxi de
T i oxi de
Dragoco
Angus
Rohm
Rohm
Henkel
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials 631
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Tween 20 P ol ysorbate 20 I C 1
Tween 60 P ol ysorbate 60 I C 1
Tween 80 P ol ysorbate 80 I C 1
Tylose CB 200/H4000P Sodium carboxymethyl cel l ul os e Hoechst
#U-9257 Fragrance
Ul traho d Strong
Ul traho d 8
Uni ci de 4-13
Uniphen P-23
Uni pherol U-14
Uni stab S-69
Uni tr i enol T-27
ShawMudge
Copolymer BAS F
Acryl ate/ acryl ami de copolymer BASF
I mi daz ol i di nyl urea
Complex
Complex
T r i methyl dodecatri enol
Farnesyl acetate/ farnesol /
panthenyl t r i acetat e
UV-Titan M212/M262
Uvi nul M-40
Uvi nul MS-40
Uvi nul 0-18
Vancl ay
Vanlube PCX
Vanseal CS
Vanseal LS
Vari on CADG
Benzophenone-3
Benzophenone-4
Octyl s al i c yl ate
Kaol i n
BHT
Cocoyl sarcosi ne
Lauroyl sarcosi ne
Cocami dopropyl betai ne
P resperse
BASF
BASF
BAS F
Vanderbi l t
Vanderbi l t
Vanderbi l t
Vanderbi It
Sherex
632 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Vari oni c LI - 67 PEG-78 gl yceryl cocoate
Vari s of t TC-90 Concentrate
Veegum/F/HS/HV/K/ Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c ate
P1 us/U1 t r a
Vegetol LP P ropylene gl ycol / yeast extract
Vel vetex BA-35 Cocami dopropyl betai ne
Versene-EDTA/100 Chel ati ng agent
Versenex 80 Pentasodium pentetate
Vi gi l an AWS
V i scosontran HEC Hydroxyethyl cel l ul ose/
Vi sconstran MC Types Methyl cel l ul os e, hi ghl y
Types hi ghl y pur i f i ed
pur i f i ed
SOURCE
Sherex
Sherex
Vanderbi 1 t
Gattefosse
Dow
Dow
Fanning
Henkel
Henkel
V i scontran MHPC Types Methyl hydroxypropyl c e l l ul ose, Henkel
Vi tami n E Tocopherol acetate R i ta
hi ghl y pur i f i ed
Wheat-Te n NL Hydrolyzed wheat prote
Wickenol 161/163
Wickenol 171 Octyl hydroxystearate
W i tcami de 51 1 C Oleamide DEA
W i tcami de 6519 Laurami de DEA
Wi tconol APM Noni oni c s urf actant
Zi nc Omadine Zi nc pyri thi one (48%)
Zincum N29
n May b r oo k
CasChem
CasChem
W i tc o
W i tc o
W i tc o
01 i n
Hen ke 1
80/20 Bradpri de Soap Base Bradford
Section XV
Suppliers' Addresses
633
634 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ajinomoto USA, I nc.
Gl enpoi nt C t r , W
500 Frank W. Burr Bl vd.
Teaneck, NJ 07645
(201)-907-3244
Akzo Chemicals, I nc.
300 S . Ri versi de P l aza
Chicago, I L 60606
(312)-906-7500/(800)-257-8292
A1 1 i ed- Si gnal , I nc.
P.O. Box 2332R
Morri stown, NJ 07962
(201)-355-2000/(800)-526-0717
Amerchol Corp.
P.O. Box 4051
136 Talmadge Rd.
Edison, NJ 08818
(908)-248-6000
American C ol l oi d Co.
1500 W. Shure Rd.
Arl i ngton Hei ghts, I L 60004
(708)-392-4600
American L eci thi n Co.
33 Turner Rd.
P . O. Box 1908
Danbury, CT 06813
(203)-790-2700
Angus Chemical Co.
1500 E . Lake Cook Rd.
Buf f al o Grove, I L 60089
(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209
Aqualon
1313 N. Market S t .
Wilmington, DE 19899
(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104
Atochem North America
900 Mi l k S t .
Cartaret, NJ 07008
(908)-541-4414
BASF Corp.
100 Cherry H i l l Rd.
P arsippany, NJ 07054
(201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072
Bernel Chemical Co., I nc.
174 Grand Ave.
Englewood, NJ 07631
(201)-569-8934
Brooks I ndus tri es , I nc .
70 T yl er P l ace
South P l ai nf i el d, NJ 07080
(908)-561-5200
Cal gon Chemical Corp.
P.O. Box 717
P i ttsburgh, PA 15230
(412)-787-6700/(800)-422-7266
Capi tal C i ty P roducts Co.
525 W. F i r s t Ave.
Columbus, OH 43216
(614)-299-3131/(800)-848-1340
CasChem, I nc.
40 Avenue A
Bayonne, NJ 07002
( 201) - 858- 7900/ ( 800) - CAS- CHEM
Centerchem, I nc.
225 Hi gh Ridge Rd.
Stamford, CT 06905
(203)-975-9800
Chemia Corp.
631 L ef f i ngwel 1 Ave.
S t. Loui s, MO 63122
(8001-726-1976
ChemMark Development
70 T yl er P1.
South P l ai nf i el d, NJ 07080
(908)-412-6192
C i ba-Gei gy Corp.
410 Swing Rd.
Greensboro, NC 27419
(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453
Suppliers' Addresses 635
Croda, I nc.
7 Century D r .
P arsippany, NJ 07054
R . T . Dodge Co.
55 Westpark Rd.
Dayton, OH 45459
( 201) - 644- 4900
( 51 3) - 439- 4497
Dow Chemical USA
2020 Dow Center
Midland, M I 48674
(800)-258-CHEM
Dow Corning Corp.
Box 0994
Midland, M I 48686
( 517) - 496- 4000
Dragoco, I nc.
10 Garden Dri ve
Totowa, NJ 07512
( 201) - 256- 3850
duPont
1007 Market S t .
Wilmington, DE 19898
( 8 0 0 ) - 441 - 751 5
Eastman Chemical
P .0.Box 431
Ki ngsport, TN 37662
( 615) - 229- 4006/ ( 800)
Emulan, I nc.
P . O. Box 582
Kenosha, W I 53141
( 41 4) - 654- 0734
EM I ndus tri es , I nc.
5 S kyl i ne Dri ve
Hawthorne, NY 10532
( 914) - 592- 4660
Fanni ng Corp,
2450 W. Hubbard St
Chicago, I L 60612
( 312) - 563- 1234
F el ton Worldwide
599 J ohnson Ave.
Brookl yn, NY 11237
F erro Corp.
7050 K ri ck Rd.
Walton Hi l l s , OH 44146
( 216) - 641- 8580
F i netex, I nc.
418 Falmouth Ave.
Elmwood Park, NJ 07407
( 201 ) - 797- 4686
FMC Corp .
1735 Market S t .
P hi l adel phi a, PA 19103
( 215) - 299- 6000
Fragrance Resources, I nc.
275 Cl ark St.
Keyport, NJ 07735
( 908) - 264- 6767
H. B. F ul l er Co.
3530 N. Lexi ngton Ave.
S t . P aul , MN 55126
(612)-481-1816/(800)-468-6358
Gattefosse Corp.
189 K i nderkamack Rd.
Westwood, NJ 07675
( 201) - 573- 1700
GE S i 1 i cones
260 Hudson Ri ver Rd.
Waterford, NY 12188
.EASTMAN
(518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886
Givaudan-Roure Corp.
100 Delawanna Ave.
C l i f ton, NJ 07015
( 201) - 365- 8000
Go1 dschmi dt Chemical Corp.
914 E . Randolph Rd.
Hopewell, VA 23860
(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809
636 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
B.F. Goodrich Co.
9911 E. Randolph Rd.
Hopewell, VA 23860
(216)- 447- 5000/(800)- 331- 1144
W. R . Grace & Co.
55 Hayden Ave.
Lexi ngton, MA 02173
(617)- 861- 6600/(800)- 354- 5414
Haarman & Reimer Corp.
60 Diamond Rd.
S pri ngf i el d, NJ 07091
(201)- 912- 5707/(800)- 432- 1559
Henkel Corp.
11501 Northl ake D r .
Ci nci nnati , OH 45299
(513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370
Heterene Chemical Co. , I nc.
295 Vreeland
P.O.Box 247
P aterson, NJ 07543
(201)-278-2000
Hi-Tek Polymers, I nc.
9808 Bluegrass Pkwy
J effersontown, KY 40299
(502)- 499- 4011/(800)- 626- 2613
Hoechst Celanese Corp.
3340 W. Norf ol k Rd.
P ortsmouth, VA 23703
(804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960
Hydrolabs, I nc.
27 E 33 S t .
P aterson, NJ 07514
(201 ) -345-51 00
I C 1 Americas I nc .
Concord P i ke & New Murphy Rd.
W i lmi ngton, DE 19897
(302)- 575- 3034/(800)- 822- 8215
I nol ex Chemical Co.
J ackson & Swanson S ts.
Phi 1 adel phi a, PA 191 48
(215)- 271- 0800/(800)- 521- 9891
I nternati onal S peci al ty P roducts
1361 Al ps Rd.
Wayne, NJ 07470
(201)- 628- 3000/(800)- 848- 7659
Kelco Di v.
Merck & Co., I nc.
8355 Aero Dri ve
San Diego, CA 92123
(619)- 292- 4900/(800)- 535- 2656
Koster Keunen, I nc.
P.O. Box 447
90 Bourne Bl vd.
S ayvi l l e, NY 11782
(516)-589-0456
L i po Chemi cal s, I nc.
207 19th Ave.
P aterson, NJ 07504
(201 )-345-8600
Lonza, I nc.
17-17 Rte. 208
Fai r Lawn, NJ 0741 0
(201)- 794- 2400/ (800)- 777- 1875
Maybrook, I nc.
570 Broadway
P.O. Box 68
Lawrence, MA 01841
(508)-682-1853
McI ntyre Group L td.
1000 Governors Hwy
Uni vers i ty P ark, I L 60466
(708)-534-6200
McLaughl i n Gorml ey K i ng Co.
8810-10th Ave. N
apol i s , MN 55427 M i nn
(612
Mona
76 E
P . O.
Pate
(201
-544-0341
I ndus tri es , I nc .
24 S t.
Box 425
son, NJ 07544
-345-8220
Suppliers' Addresses 637
Morfl ex, I nc.
2110 High P oi nt Rd.
Greensboro, NC 27403
(919)-292-1781
Penreco
138 P etr ol i a S t .
Karns C i ty, PA 16041
(412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952
Phoenix Chemical , I nc.
322 Courtyard D r .
S omervi l l e, NJ 08876
(908)-707-0232
PPG I ndus tri es
3938 P orett Dri ve
Gurnee, I L 60031
(708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG
P resperse I nc.
610 Hadley Rd.
P . O. Box 735
South P l ai nf i el d, NJ 07080
(908)-756-2023
Protameen Chemicals, I nc .
375 Mi nni si nk Rd.
Totowa, NJ 07511
(201)-256-4374
QO Chemicals
P . O. Box 2500
West L afayette, I N 47906
(317)-497-6300/(800)-621-9521
Nati onal S tarch & Chemical Co
10 F i nderne Ave.
Bri dgewater, NJ 08807
( 908) - 685- 5000/ ( 800) - 532- 1115
Nevi l l e Chemical Co.
2800 Nevi l l e Rd.
P i ttsburgh, PA 15225
(412)-331-4200
Nipa Laboratori es, I nc
104 Hagley Bl dg.
Concord P1 aza
3411 S i l vers i de Rd.
W i 1 mi ngton , DE 1981 0
(302)-478-1522
Novarome I nc.
30 Stewart P1.
F ai r f i el d, NJ 07004
(201)-575-4550
Novi l l e
1312 F i f t h S t.
North Bergen, NJ 07047
(201)-867-9080
Rheox, I nc.
P . O. Box 700
Hi ghtstown, NJ 08520
(609)-443-2320
Rhone-Poul enc
S urfactants & S peci al ti es
P rospect P l ai ns Rd.
Cranbury, NJ 08512
(609)-860-3025
R I T A Corp.
1725 K i 1 kenny
Woodstock, I L 60098
(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759
Robertet I nc.
125 Bauer Dri ve
Oakland, NJ 07436
(201)-337-7100
Frank B. Ross Co., I nc .
P . O. Box 4085
J ersey C i ty, N J 07304
(201)-433-4512
Sandoz Chemicals Corp.
4000 Monroe Rd.
Charl otte, NC 28205
(704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077
638 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shaw Mudge & Co.
P . O. Box 1375
Stamford, CT 06904
(203)-327-3132
Sonneborn D i v i s i on
Witco Corp.
520 Madison Ave.
New Y ork, NY 10022
(212)-605-3981
Stepan Co.
22 W. Frontage Rd.
Northf i el d, I L 60093
(708)-446-7500
Sun Chemical Corp.
411 Sun Ave.
Ci nci nnati , OH 45232
(513)- 681- 5950/(800)- 343- 2583
Sutton L aboratori es, I nc.
116 Summit Ave.
Chatham, NJ 07928
(201 )-635-1551
Terry L aboratori es, I nc.
390 N. Wickham Rd.
P . O. Box 566
Melbourne, FL 32935
(407)- 259- 1630/(800)- 367- 2563
Ti oxi de S peci al ti es , L td.
Bi 11 i ngham, C1 eve1 and TS23 1 PS
Uni ted Kingdom
0642-370300
Tri - K I ndus tri es , I nc .
P . O . Box 312
27 Bl and S t .
Emerson, NJ 07630
(201)- 261- 2800/(800)- 526- 0372
3V I nc.
1500 Harbor Bl vd.
Weehawkan, NJ 07087
(201)-865-3600
Unichema North America
4650 S . Racine Ave.
Chicago, I L 60609
(312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864
Union Carbide Chemicals & P l as ti c
39 Ol d Ridgebury Rd.
Danbury, CT 06817
(203)-794-5300
R. T. Vanderbi l t Co. , I nc.
30 Wi nf i el d S t.
P . O . Box 5150
Norwalk, CT 06856
(203)-853-1400
Van Dyk
Main & Wi l l i am S ts.
B el l evi l l e, NJ 07109
(201)-450-3264
Witco Corp.
5777 F rantz Rd.
P. O. Box 646
Dubl i n, OH 43017
(614)-764-6500/(800)-366-6500

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