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How to Repair a Loose Wood Screw

Hole for a Hinge
Drilling Out the Stripped Hole Relocating the Hinge Using a Shim Using Over-Sized
Screws Using Wood Glue Using a Sheet-Rock Anchor Using Pine Using Decking
Screws Using Steel Wool Using a Golf Tee Using Toilet Paper and Glue Using a Power
Drill
Do you have a wood screwhole for a hinge that is loose? Here are a few quick
suggestions on how to go about doing this type of repair yourself.
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Drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel the same diameter as the drill
bit. If door sag has been a problem, drill through the jamb, any shims behind the jamb,
and into the door framing studs. This gives you a dowelled connection all the way back to
the wall framing that will be suitable for a long wooden screw.
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Method 1 of 12: Drilling Out the Stripped Hole
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Glue, then cut the dowel off flush with the edge of the door or hinge mortise
and pilot drill for the screw after the glue sets. Reinstall the screw.
1
Relocate the hinge just a little up or down. This may require re-chiseling the
pocket in the frame and on the door; then filling with plastic wood and touching up the
paint. This is probably the most labor intensive fix. Suggest you try this when all else fails.
Method 2 of 12: Relocating the Hinge
Method 3 of 12: Using a Shim
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Wedge a shim into the hole (a toothpick or wooden matchstick, for example)
but it probably won't hold for long. You may be tempted to try this, but for a hinge,
you really need holding power. Not recommended.
1
Use over-sized screws. For example, a longer screw (2-1/2" ( 6.35 cm) to replace a
1-1/2" (3.8 cm)) or a thicker screw (#8 in place of #6).
Method 4 of 12: Using Over-Sized Screws
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Make sure that the screw head won't stick out and interfere with operation of
the door by causing binding or scarring the frame.
1
Coat a shim or plug with wood glue and wedge it into the hole.
Method 5 of 12: Using Wood Glue
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After the glue dries, re-mount the hinge. Re-drilling a pilot hole into the shim might
be helpful in keeping the screw in line with the hinge plate.
1
Use a sheet-rock anchor. However, like the shim-only method (no glue), this might
not last for very long.
Method 6 of 12: Using a Sheet-Rock Anchor
Method 7 of 12: Using Pine
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2
Take a small piece of pine, (1/4" (1/2 cm ) cm) x 1/4") and, using a sharp knife,
whittle it to a point.
Put a dab of wood glue on the point and tap it into place lightly, with a
hammer.
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4
Once you have the whittled pine sitting snugly in the hole, use a sharp chisel
to slice the pine flush with the hole.
Make sure that the glue has dried, then place the hinge back where it belongs
and mark the hole with a pencil.
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Use a small finish nail or drill with a small drill bit (smaller than the diameter of
the screw) to create a pilot hole for the hinge screw.
1
Use decking screws. Probably the most permanent way is to use decking screws
about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long, especially if it is an exterior door.
Method 8 of 12: Using Decking Screws
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3
Check to be sure the the heads are the same size as this will keep them from
protruding and keeping the door from closing fully.
Using the existing holes, run the extra long screws through the jamb and into
the 2 x 4" (5 x 10 cm) framing stud inside the wall. This will permanently anchor
the door into place and will last for many years. The reason for the extra long screws is that
they have to pass through the jamb and through a couple of inches of empty space before
hitting the framing stud in the wall. This is so effective that it is generally only necessary to
use a couple of the decking screws per hinge.
Method 9 of 12: Using Steel Wool
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Stuff steel wool into the hole with screwdriver. Fill the hole almost completely.
Screw the screw into the hole.
1
Drive a golf tee into the old hole and use a chisel or cut it flush. Use wood glue
for a more permanent fix.
Method 10 of 12: Using a Golf Tee
Method 11 of 12: Using Toilet Paper and Glue
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Mix one or two sheets of toilet paper with Elmer's Glue, e.g. using a small cup
and a screwdriver. The paper disintegrates easily, and the mixture can resemble
modeling clay with the right amount of glue. Stuff the mixture into the hole, e.g. with a nail
head, before it sets and make a pilot hole with the nail. Before the unused mixture has
hardened completely, drive the screw partially into the pilot hole, then remove the screw and
allow the material to harden further for an hour or two. The dried material is firmly bonded
and holds screws as well as the original wood. This procedure also works well for filling
holes in wall board.
1
Just use a 2 inch long, self-drilling screw with a power drill. Drill the screw at an
angle, I.E. slightly up or slightly down. I have been fixing doors this way for twenty-five
years and have never broken a jam or had the door come off again. Do not put the screw in
at an angle more than 20 degrees or the head of the screw will stick out and prevent the
hinge from closing (but you can file the screw down so it will not hit with an attachment that
goes on the drill). I usually put the screws in at about a 10 or 15 degree angle so they will
Method 12 of 12: Using a Power Drill
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not prevent the hinge from closing.
Many times you can use longer a 3 inch, self drilling screw right in the old hole
without having to go in at an angle. I have used 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 inch screws in
old jams. Since I learned this, I have never replaced a jam. I buy the screws in one
pound boxes but I use so many 2 inch, self drilling screws to fix doors that I buy
them in five pound boxes.
Be sure and replace all three screws where the problem is so that it will really hold
well (permanently).
With the self drilling screws and an electric drill, you can fix the door really fast (in
minutes).
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When drilling a pilot (starter) hole for a wood screw in a hinge, use a self-
centering drill bit (one brand name is Vix Bit). They ensure a perfectly
centered hole. If the hole isn't centered the screw will go in crooked and
leave the screw head a little protruded. This could prevent the door from
shutting properly.
1. There is an file attachment that goes on the power drill. You can use
this attachment to file down the head of the screw if it prevents the
hinge from closing. This can be done with the screw in the door.
Use a dial caliper that probes to gauge the depth of the hole for pre-
cutting a dowel filler. This way you don't have to cut flush against the
mortise or jamb.
If you have an automatic closer on your door, install a foot to hold it open
or use a wedge at the floor. Don't place a wedge at the top corner of the
door above the hinge, between the edge of the door and frame, as it will
stress the screws in the top hinge and cause them to fail.
Driving anything into the original screw hole(s) must be done very gently
to avoid splitting the jamb. Light taps with a hammer until the glue just
starts to squeeze out is sufficient.
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