BUENOS

AIRES
GUIDE
AUG-SEP 2014 | FREE magazine | N 3
Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! We are now in our third
edition of this new, free city guide and magazine. Please use us how you like: for tips,
for the nifty map at the back, for bath tub reading with a glass of vino, or just for passing
a bored hour or two on the bus.
This edition weve rounded up some of the coolest free events and happenings in the
city so even if you dont have two pesos notes to rub together you can still enjoy this
beautiful city. Continuing on the free vibe weve also rounded up the best markets in BA
so if you are a little piggy youll know exactly where to head. And if piggy is strictly off
the menu for you, then youll certainly want to take a peek at our green guide to Buenos
Aires, highlighting the best vegan, vegetarian and organic spots in the city. Although
you should probably leave some room for the 5 oclock tea recommendations too
If you are more of a fan of the liquid diet then theres a guide to beer which is essential
reading for any brew fans; and our resident somm also gives us the scoop on some
unusual Malbecs for those otherwise inclined.
While Argentina is still celebrating taking second place in the World Cup (vamos
Argentina!) weve moved on from football to rugby as the Championships arrive here
later this month. And if you are looking for a different sporting practice then one of our
writers shows us a new angle on pole dancing
For our destination guide this edition, weve taken off for the slopes and bring you some
of the best ski resorts around the country. If you are staying in the city though, we hope
youll find plenty of nuggets of information to help you enjoy your time here.
When you are done with your Playground Buenos Aires guide, please pass us on to the
next user. We want to get around as much as possible, so if you do like the magazine,
pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone that looks like they read a bit of English - the
more hands on us the better! We are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want to
pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and
well get some copies to you. We are also keen to hear from eager writers, illustrators,
artists and photographers who are interested in collaborating in the future. And if you
simply want to email us some feedback or some of your own favourite playground game
ideas, wed love to hear from you!
Un beso!
Playground Buenos Aires
Editor | Amanda Barnes
editor@playgroundba.com
Design | Pablo Ortiz
design@playgroundba.com
Distribution & Sales |
admin@playgroundba..com
Playground Argentina S.A.,
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2
Buenos Aires, Argentina
www.playgroundba.com
Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires!
BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR
PLAYGROUND!
Free Pass 06
The BA Beer Guide 10
Scribbles from a Somm 14
The Malbec Story 15
Artist in Profle 16
Time for Tea, Anyone? 18
This Little Piggy Went to Market 20
Winter in the City 21
The Rugby Championship 24
Destination Guide Ski 28
A Spin on Fitness 32
Going Green in BA 34
Focus On 38
Restaurant Guide 40
Bar & Caf Guide 44
Playground Tips 46
Map 48
Where to Find Us 50
A guide to free activities in BA
Where to get a good pint
Malbec, but not as you know it
How Argentine Malbec took the world by storm
Daniel Genovesi
Indulging in 5 oclock tea Buenos Aires style
The best food markets
Poetry and art
Argentina competes in a southern hemisphere line-up
Ski and snow spots in Argentina
A glimpse into the pole dancing ftness scene
Vegan, vegetarian and earth friendly alternatives
Puerto Madero
Top spots to eat in the city
Where to drink and be merry
Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires
Where to get free copies
COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH
AND ARGENTINE JAMN IN BUENOS
AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMN!
Visit Museo del Jamn in Puerto Madero
for an excellent range of seafood,
meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads
and tapas. Try our unique specialties
including Suckling Pig, Salami and
Ham imported from Spain and the best
providers in Argentina, and Seafood
Fideu. We hope to see you soon!
Open every day from 12 till 12
Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As.
(011) 4300-5418
info@museodeljamonpuerto.com
CONTENTS
5
Rosie Hilder is a British
journalist who has lived
in Argentina for over
four years. She writes
about entertainment,
travel and culture.
THEATRE, DANCE AND MUSIC
The opulent Teatro Coln (Cerrito
628, 4378 7100, www.teatrocolon.
org.ar) has free classical music
concerts two or three times a month.
Take your pick on the 'intrpretes
argentinos' tab of the theatre's
website and collect your tickets the
Friday before the concert (four per
person). Not surprisingly, free tickets
to Buenos Aires's most spectacular
theatre are much
coveted, so make sure you arrive
before the ticket office opens at
10am to nab a place in the queue.
The City of Buenos Aires government
puts on fourteen major festivals
http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar
throughout the year. In the winter
months, the Tango BA Festival y
Mundial sees dancers from around
the world compete to be crowned
champions, September brings the
new animated film festival BAFICI
Animado and the Danza Contem-
pornea festival has modern dance
shows across the city. For a general
calender of cultural events head to
the Agenda Cultural website. http://
agendacultural.buenosaires.gob.ar.
A power plant turned arts centre,
the impressive Usina del Arte (Don
Pedro de Mendoza 501,
www.usinadelarte.org, Guided tours:
Sat & Sun, 11am - 5pm, Spanish
language only) stands tall amongst
the grit of La Boca. Catch a dance or
music performance in the concert
hall, an art exhibition in one of the
smaller spaces or take a guided tour
of the Usina's entire 15,000 square
metres. Housed in an ex-monastery
in Recoleta, the Centro Cultural
Recoleta (Junin 1930, 4803 1040,
www.centroculturalrecoleta.org,
Tues-Fri 1-8pm, Sat & Sun, 11 - 8pm)
has a packed programme of
exhibitions, concerts, workshops
and talks.
A more intimate space is Almagro bar
and cultural centre Senior Duncan
(see our bar guide). This renovated
mansin has a packed programme
of fun, arty activities including tango
and swing nights, piano recitals, local
bands and theatrical productions. The
events are mostly a la gorra, which
literally means 'to the hat', or bring
some change for tips.
Theatre-lovers should check out the
website www.alternativateatral.com,
which has a section with free or
discounted tickets to various
alternative theatre productions
while live music fans should visit
the Programacin Bares Notables
Facebook page (www.facebook.com/
programacion.notables) for music in
the city's traditional bars and cafs.
If it's an alfresco tango fix you're
after, go to San Telmo's Sunday
market, in particular Plaza Dorrego,
or La Glorieta, (11 de Septiembre y
Echeverra, 4674 1026, Saturdays and
Sundays, from 8pm) a tango class
and milonga held on a bandstand in
Belgrano.
MUSEUMS AND TOURS
Most of the city's main museums
charge a small fee (between $1 and
$50) and have discounts on
Wednesdays. True freebies include
the Museo Nacional de Bellas
Artes, (Libertador 1437, 5288 9900,
www.mnba.gob.ar Tues-Fri 11.30am -
7.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am - 8.30pm,
guided tours in English available on
Tues, Thurs and Fri 12.30pm, Sat
2pm) which holds a large permanent
collection of European and South
American art as well as temporary
exhibitions. Designed to appeal to
young people, the museum's evening
event Bellos Jueves (last Thursday
of the month, 7pm - 10pm) is fresh,
exciting and interactive. Live music is
played throughout the gallery, young
artists are invited to present their
work and there are poetry readings,
talks and guided tours. The night
ends with atmospheric drinks and
dancing on the grand museum's
terrace. A stone's throw away, the
Palais de Glace (Posadas 1725, 4804
1163, www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar, Tues
- Fri 12 noon - 8pm, Sat & Sun 10am -
8pm) houses rotating art and photogra-
phy exhibitions and is worth a visit if
only to ogle the building; the stunning
circular edifice was an ice rink and
social club during the Belle Epoque.
In the centre, take a tour of the
government house Casa Rosada
(Balcarce 50, Sat & Sun & public
holidays, 10am - 6pm, every 10
minutes, available in Spanish,
Portuguese and English) or head
round the corner to the Museo del
Bicentenario (Paseo Coln 100, 4344
3802, www.museobicentenario.
gob.ar, Weds - Sun, 10am - 6pm,
Spanish language only). The latter
has videos and realia showing the
different stages of Argentine history,
an excavated mural by Mexican artist
David Alfaro Siqueiros and a caf to
rest in if the bombardment of facts in
Spanish becomes too much.
Once a month, art lovers rejoice at
the chance to roam the city's
galleries after sunset at Gallery
Nights (4775 8802, www.gallery-
nights.com.ar). Even though many
participating galleries are free all year
round, there's a thrill to be had in
exploring them all in one evening,
map in hand. If you'd rather
contemplate the skies, go to the
Planetarium (Sarmiento y Belisario
Roldn, 4772 9265, www.planetario.
gob.ar). Entrance to one of their
shows costs around $30 but
stargazing via monster telescope
doesn't cost a peso (weekends
between 7 - 8.30pm).
Ideal for getting your bearings, both
Buenos Aires Free Walks (www.
buenosairesfreewalks.com, 'Walking
through Recoleta Tour' 10.30am,
meet on Plaza Estado de Vaticano,
'City Centre Tour', 3pm, meet outside
the front door of Congress, everyday)
and BA Free Tour (www.bafreetour.
com, 11am, meet on Rivadavia y
Rodriguez Pea, Mon - Sat) operate
on a tips basis. To delve deeper into
Argentine history, visit the El Espacio
Memoria y Derechos Humanos
(Libertador 8151, 4702 9920, www.
espaciomemoria.ar). During the
1976 - 1983 military dictatorship the
centre was used to hold, torture and
kill around 5000 people. Today, the
centre pays homage to the victims
of the dictatorship and promotes
human rights and democracy through
debates, educational programmes
and cultural events. Guided tours are
available in English and Spanish and
though not exactly pleasant, they are
chillinglingly enlightening. To book,
write in advance to visitasguiadas@
espaciomemoria.ar
GOING GREEN
One of the best ways to enjoy the
city is to grab a mate and sit in a
park or plaza watching the world go
by. Particularly good spots include
Parque Centenario in Caballito, an
extensive circular park surrounding a
lake that boasts a market,
ampitheatre, natural history museum
and observatory, and the 400
hectares of Palermo's Parque Tres
de Febrero. Also known as the
Bosques de Palermo, the Parque
Tres de Febrero has a large lake plus
The Planetarium, Japanese Garden
and pretty rose garden El Rosedal. At
weekends, it's a hubbub of activity.
Whole families come for picnics,
THE
BEST
ARE
FREE
THINGS
IN LIFE
There are plenty of
ways to enjoy Buenos
Aires without parting
with your pesos.
Rosie Hilder takes
you through all things
gratuito.
Inside Coln Theatre
Centro Cultural Recoleta
San Telmos Sunday Market
Casa Rosada
Museo del Bicentenario
Espacio Memoria y D.D.H.H.
Planetarium
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
7
FREEBIE
AGENDA
AUGUST

13th - 26th Tango BA Festival y
Mundial. Various locations.
17th - Alumnos de Instrumentos
de Viento y Percusin. Teatro
Coln.
28th - Bellos Jueves.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.
31st - Ivn Rutkauskas &
Marcelo Ayub, do de pianos.
Teatro Coln.
SEPTEMBER
All month. BAFICI Animado.
Various locations.
7th - Jaime Torres y su conjunto.
Teatro Coln.
11th - Gallery Nights. Various
locations in Retiro and Recoleta
17th - 22nd. Festival de piano
Les Amateurs. Usina del Arte.
211st - Sept. Artis - Orquestra
de cmara. Teatro Coln.
25th - Bellos Jueves.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.
OCTOBER
5th - Freddy Varela Montero,
Carlos Cspedes & Leonardo
Marconi. Teatro Coln.
8th - 13th. Festival Buenos Aires
Danza Contempornea. Various
locations.
9th - Gallery Nights. Various
locations in Palermo
12th - la Barroca del Suqa.
Teatro Coln.
roller bladers, skateboarders and
runners whiz round the paved area
and street artists entertain on the
grass. Other park highlights
include Plaza Francia in Recoleta,
the Botanical Gardens in Palermo,
the hilly Parque Leezema in San
Telmo and the antique bookstalls in
Parque Rivadavia. However close
you may feel to nature, don't let your
guard down - keep a close eye on all
your belongings at all times.
The Reserva Ecolgica (Tristn
Achval Rodriguez 1550, Tues - Sun,
8pm - 6pm) in Puerto Madero is
another great place for people-
watching. This quiet refuge provides
escapism from city life, though to do
so successfully make sure you face
the murky-looking Rio de La Plata
and not the looming skyscrapers on
the other side. Nature lovers can spot
small rodents and birds, and the
reserve is also popular with
picnicking families, lip-locked couples,
runners and cyclists.
Stepping out of the nature reserve,
take a stroll along the Costanera
Sur. Grab some meaty goodness
from a food truck (unfortunately,
you'll have to pay) and check out the
knock-off merchandise and ad-hoc
cumbia dancing on the boulevard.
To travel Buenos Aires on two
wheels, join the city's biking scheme
Ecobici (www.ecobici.buenosaires.
gob.ar, Mon - Fri 8am - 8pm, Sat 9am
- 3pm). The yellow bikes can be used
for up to an hour at a time; when
you're done just drop off the bike at
the nearest station. To sign up, bring
your passport plus a photocopy to
any Ecobici station.
SOCIALISING
Finding it hard to make friends in
the city? Chat with fellow English
speakers at weekly meet up The
English Group Buenos Aires
(Cabildo 2921, www.theenglishgroup.
com.ar, Fridays 7pm - 10pm). This
mixed bunch of locals and foreigners
delight in the English language and
are extremely friendly and
welcoming. After the meet up,
there's an optional dinner where
any language is allowed, so hang on
in there if you want to practise your
Spanish.
If you'd like swap your language for
Spanish, go to the Conversation
Exchange www.conversationexchange.
com website, make yourself a profile
and watch the offers roll in.
Meet friends old and new at Post St
Bar (Thames 1885, www.
poststreetbar.com) where you can
gorge on free pizza on Thursday
evenings. As if that wasn't enough,
the bar is covered in stencils drawn
by BA's hottest street artists and
upstairs a gallery displays their work
more formally. Thursdays (8.15pm -
11pm).
Bridge - Parque 3 de Febrero
Greek Monument - Parque Lezama
Reserva Ecolgica
Botanical Gardens
BREWERIES
Want the best beer? Go straight to the source. BA is
noticeably limited on space, which is why you will find that
pubs offering the best beer are actually making the stuff
in the back of the bar. There are a number of great micro
breweries Argentina, many of which can be found on your
front doorstep (or temporary front doorstep), here in BA.
BREOGHAN, SAN TELMO
Open for 5 years now, Breoghan Brew Bar is going from
strength to strength and continues to crank out some top
quality tipples. The company was founded by two beer
loving brothers who have since moved their brewery out
of their basement and into a cosy Irish themed pub on
Bolivar 862, San Telmo. With the taps in the front and the
brewery in the back, you can ensure that your beer is as
fresh as it comes. They also have a fab range of beers:
IPA, Irish Red, Brown Ale, Stout and even a specialty
strong brew. One word of warning-this is not a great
venue for a day time pick-me-up as they seldom open
before 6pm. Happy hour is from 10 til 12 when you can
get 2 pints for AR$60, take that Weatherspoons!
BULLER. RECOLETA
They are a confident bunch at Buller, so much so that they
have their beer brewing equipment front and centre as
you walk through the door. The staff trade bar tending
responsibilities and beer brewing tasks interchangeably,
and nerves of steel are required as they have an audience
of regulars watching the entire process. Buller is a little
bit more expensive (due to their costly American brewing
equipment and swanky location) but they offer great food
and samples of all their beers. They are located at Pte.
Roberto M. Ortiz 1827 opposite the Recoleta cultural centre.
ANTARES, PALERMO
Antares is one of the more famous craft breweries of
Buenos Aires. If youve had a good draught beer in BA
chances are that these fellas made it. They have a few
locations now but their main bar is located on Armenia 1447,
Palermo. The bar has impressive (if fake) 10 foot tall kegs
hanging over the bar, and the bar has an overall New
York-ish feel to it. They have 7 main beers as well as
seasonal offerings, all of which are similar to European and
American brews. Antares is fantastic as they have
exported relatively cheap, high standard beer all over
Argentina, blazing the trail for more mainstream brews to
follow and perhaps raise the standard nationwide. Other BA
locations: Arevela 2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo.
BARBA ROJA, ESCOBAR
If rehab isnt working and youre looking for a boozy break
from the city, this beer-themed amusement park in
Escobar, 50km south of BA, may be the place for you.
Barba Roja has set up Argentinas first adult getaway, just
be sure to bring a designated driver or take the bus. The
beer itself is hard to find in the city and is usually sold by
speciality beer and wine shops many of which are
scattered down Santa Fe and in Palermo. To appreciate
this beer at its finest, your best bet is to take a tour of the
brewery and have fun at their real-life Duff-land, which
lets be honest wouldnt be the worst place to spend an
afternoon. www.barbaroja.com.ar
TYPES OF BEER
Argentine artisanal brews tend to fall into one of 7
categories; these may be slightly different from what you
find at home, so here is your micro guide to the most
common beer types in Argentina.
LAGER
No difference here, lager is one of the most common
brews in the world. Its easy to make and offensive to no
one. Your generic beer of choice, has been adopted the
world over by bland and boring corporate fizz makers.
Lager done right is a rare thing, crisp, light and flavourful,
done wrong and you get a brew that will get you drunk
but will be as inspiring as Dido.
IPA (INDIAN PALE ALE)
Calm down limeys, this isnt the IPA we know and love
from back home. For a start its cold, and its fizzy! Despite
these glaring faults, IPA is usually the sign of a quality beer
in Argentina. The hue can be a hodgepodge mix of anything
from pale yellow to deep red but usually it is a light amber
with a fruity taste and a very moreish quality. Breoghans in
San Telmo make a particularly nice one, and The Gibraltar,
a block away on Peru 895 sells a warm, flat British style IPA
for those getting withdrawals.
SCOTCH
This style was foreign to me before moving to Argentina,
but as the name suggests it comes from the shivering
shores of Shcotland (Side note: dont get it confused
with the whiskey or your evening will end in the back of
ambulance rather than a taxi.) This ale is deep brown, quite
strong, relatively sweet and has a nutty almost stout-like
quality to it that some may find heavy. Its a personal
favourite among serious beer drinkers but may be a little
too much for a casual aficionado.
STOUT
Guinness lovers put down your creamy glasses of the
black stuff and try a few stouts on offer in the Aires of
Buenos. For some reason, other than that it is delicious,
Argentines are obsessed with stout, even Quilmes has
got in on it with a number of varieties available at the
supermarket. Stout, for the uninitiated is the darkest of
the beers on the spectrum, often has chocolate notes and
a creamy texture, and is best known for getting the world
three sheets to the wind come Saint Patricks day. The
breweries have stout as a standard with all those
mentioned above pumping out their interpretation.
Arguably the best on the list is Antares, but I would urge
you to try out any brand you come across, as Argentina
does surprisingly well at being Irish.
IRISH RED
Talking of Irish, Rojo or Red beer is a fan favourite in the
artisanal pubs in the city. Arguably this beer first came from
the British Bitter brewers, but that factoid is up for debate.
Regardless, this beer style has adapted over the years and
is now a sweetish, but light red beer, favoured in Argentina
and the USA, perfect for any Yanks that are looking for a
micro brewery taste without the obscene import tax.
HONEY
A cracking summer pint. Very fresh but a hint of something
sweet and usually a glimmer of a body that you wouldnt
get from a lager. Another standard for the artisanal brew
pub, but not replicated by the corporate big boys yet. If
youre looking to put a few away in an evening this is a
good beer to start with as you can usually chug 6 or 7 of
them before feeling any adverse effects [Editors note:
Playground Buenos Aires does not encourage or condone
that sort of behaviour].
There are two kinds of people, people that enjoy beer and people that
drink Quilmes. Not to say qauffers of Argentinas favourite malt
beverage dont enjoy the rich palate of fine artisan beer over the
watery taste of fizzy nothingness, but that is exactly what I am
saying. For many Argentineans beer starts at Quilmes, and ends, well,
at Quilmes (maybe Quilmes dark for the more advanced drinkers),
and you couldnt be blamed for thinking that this flavourless tipple
was all there was in Buenos Aires, considering the limited range of
beer usually offered at most corner stores and restaurants. Due to the
popularity and abundance of quality wine in South America, beer is
often overlooked by visitors and ex-pats alike, but fortunately for
those in the enjoy beer category Argentina is positively brimming
with tasty microbrews, many of which can be found dotted around
the city centre if you know where to look. So if youre hankering for
a quality IPA or hearty stout this article will guide you to the best
places to get a cheeky pint, what styles to expect and where to get
the best power to your peso - its the BA Beer Guide.
Tom Proctor has been wandering the
globe for a few years now attempting to
avoid the weather of his home town of
Manchester, England. Hes a keen writer
looking for new horizons and projects:
tom-proctor@hotmail.co.uk.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF BEER IN ARGENTINA
No nation on the planet has done more to bring lager
and beer to the forefront of the boozy world-
community thanthe Germans. Famous for their beer
halls, lederhosen and efficiency, and as Argentinas
fourth biggest ethnic community, it is no surprise that
they brought barrels of the yellow stuff with them on
their trip over to South America back in 1871.
Argentina in the late 1800s encouraged mass
immigration from Europe resulting in a large mix of
Spanish, Italians and Germans arriving at their shores.
This porteo ancestry can still be seen in Argentinean
culture today (hello Fernet). The company that makes
Quilmes, Argentinas favourite bubbly water, was
founded in 1888 by Otto Bemberg, a German
immigrant, and was run by the Bembergs up until
2006, when his great-great grandson, Carlos
Miguens Bemberg, resigned as company director.
In this European melting pot there emerged a nation
with a fond love for beer. Over the years Argentineans
have refined their tastes and have taken to making
it themselves with a few great breweries emerging
around the country.
11
BLONDE
Somewhat similar to honey but not so sweet, this type of
pale ale can also be made from wheat (think Hoegaarden)
which means it could be an acquired taste for some. You
can pick some up at the breweries, but you may have to
shop around some speciality shops to find some to take
home with you.
KIOSKO
For many people (myself included), sometimes you cant
be bothered to make the trip out all the way to a bar, sit
down and have to endure conversation with people. It is
far easier to nip to the local kiosko (small shop), buy a kilo
of ice cream and shame eat it while binge-watching House
of Cards. This depressing picture would not be complete
without a litre or two of no-no juice. If store bought beer is
your chosen option heres an idea of what youre likely to get.
PATAGONIA
At 40 pesos a pop this beer is not for
those with light wallets, and coming
in at over 200 ml under the standard
litre some may feel cheated, however
this is by far the best beer you can
purchase at the kiosko. Coming in
Blonde, Amber and Negra (dark) this
is the closest to artisanal beer you are
likely to find when stumbling home at
5am from the nearest club. The price
may be steep but you wont consider
drinking Quilmes again, and can you
really put a price on that?
QUILMES
I promise this is my last mention
of this product, as it holds 75% of
the market share it is difficult not
to. Bland, unoriginal but cheap and
will get the job done. It comes in a
variety of flavours none of which are
stellar, but sometimes drinking this
*ahem* beer is unavoidable, if you
find yourself in this situation try and
get it on tap as its slightly less terrible
than bottled.
IMPERIAL
Comes in multiple varieties; Amber,
Scotch, Dark, Stout, Lager - the
biggest con here is that its actually
owned by Quilmes (sorry I broke my
promise). While slightly more
expensive overall it does have more of
a flavour and better variation, but that
could just be a placebo effect.
WARSTEINER
Likely to be found in several bars as
well, this German lager has a very
European twang to its flavour. Those
who enjoy Bitburger or Heineken will
enjoy this German qausi-import and
generally it will be under 30 pesos a
bottle when store bought.
ISENBECK
Finally, a beer not owned by Quilmes.
Isenbeck is pale ale from the (surprise
surprise) German town of Hamm,
brought over to Argentina by
Warsteiner (another beer you are likely
to find at the local shop) but has now
been sold to Miller. Its not the worst
beer in the world, but it certainly isnt
the best, costs roughly the same
as the cheapest beer though so the
lesser of several evils if youre feeling
a little light on cash.
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www.thesqueezemagazine.com/app
A free app guide to Mendozas
wineries, wines and regions !
Scribbles from a Somm...
Vicentin Blanc de Malbecs 2013 - Bodega Vicentin $105
A lovely rarity This is a diffcult wine to categorize: by colour, it is a white Malbec wine,
but its structure cannot be easily pigeonholed. Once we let ourselves enjoy it, well discover it is
an unctuous wine, and we can also say that the oak gives more structure. Exceptionally nice; very
interesting and original.
Largentin de Malartic, Rose - Bodega Diamandes $62
La Vie en Rose ... the singular feature of this beautiful wine is that it very delicately combines
fruit and freshness. With fresh strawberry aromas, this is a stylish and expressive wine, inviting you
to drink more than one glass. This is a nice wine to start an evening. A wine without pretense;
allow yourself to be surprised more than once. It is always a great satisfaction.
Laureano Gomez Ros de Malbec - Bodega Laureano Gomez $140
Some lovely bubbles. This is a sparkling wine with a very attractive color; it has a stronger
intensity than the other Malbec ross that are on the market. Its aroma highlights a truly delicate,
subtle and soft strawberry. The palate has the same notes that were presented in nose, and there is
a smoothness generated by time in oak. The fnish is medium, and has a pleasant persistence.
Im telling you a secret, and you should be quick because there are only 2000 bottles!
Malamado Fortifcado based on Malbec - Bodega Zuccardi $112
The conspiracy of love. This is a really sweet wine. It is perfect with chocolate or cigars,
and has a large presence in the mouth. A wine that combines structure and sweetness. Beyond the
ingenuity of the name (Malbec the Port way - Malbec A LA Manera De Oporto), I am sure
that any sweet tooth will love it.
Returning to the main point, I think if we talk about Argentine wines, we can close this review
just by mentioning one gorgeous red Malbec.
El Enemigo Malbec - Bodega Aleanna $294
The search for perfection This Malbec stepped boldly into the market. Despite the authors
inspiration to call it The Enemy; I can say that this bottle has already made many friends.
An unforgettable wine, a nose of red and black fruits, plummy, with roasted hints. Full bodied
on the palate; which combines very soft and pleasant tannins. It also presents a very interesting
persistence. A bold Malbec which speaks for itself; so I defnitely recommend you just try it.
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Malbec but not
as you know it
Whenever I talk to someone from another country about
Argentinas wines, we talk about Malbec of course; but
if this person is a little bit curious, I would also say that
with Malbec, you can make more than just red wines...
A
rgentina
owes a lot
to Malbec,
and Malbec owes a lot to
Argentina. Both were in the
forgotten back alleys of the wine world:
one an obscure French wine variety that
few wanted to use as more than a
blending grape, and the other a far away
land that made no wines of any
international interest.
Since their love affair with each other over
the last two decades though, both Malbec
and Argentina are on the radar of almost
every wine drinker - and almost always
bound together. Argentina is synonymous
with Malbec, and Malbec is synonymous
with Argentina. The excellent Malbec in
Argentina brought Argentine wine to steak
houses around the globe, and because of
the fantastic quality and value Argentina
gave Malbec, the grape became
fashionable again and began to go through
a renaissance with planting popping up
all over the world's wine regions. Despite
Malbec and Argentina's clearly intimate rela-
tionship, it is important to remember that
Argentina did not discover Malbec.
The grape has a genetic history stretching
back hundreds of years and was indeed
brought to Argentina from its probable
homeland France only in 1868. Before
Argentina had even started making wine,
Malbec was making waves in France as
it was grown all over the country, earning
itself over a thousand different names. The
great Phylloxera disease wiped out much of
France's Malbec and then a series of bad
frosts in the 50s all but finished it off as a
mainstream variety. Although it still features
in some blends, Malbec is only renowned
in the Cahors region nowadays where it
is nicknamed Black Wine because of its
intense dark colour. When the Cahors DOC
was formed in 1971, the wines in the area
had to have at least 70% of Malbec in the
blend. So French Malbec became known
simply as 'Cahors'.
Meanwhile in Argentina, the variety started
gaining international fame in the 90s and by
2000 plantings were spreading like wildfire
making Argentina the biggest Malbec
producer in the world, with 85% of the
world's Malbec planted here. The variety
became famous once again and now
everyone wants a piece of the action from
Chile and the USA to Australia and South
Africa. Even the French stalwarts have -
contrary to the status quo - begun
marketing their Cahors as 'Malbec'.
Argentina and Malbec's great love affair
made them both more desirable to the
world. The grass is certainly greener on
this side.
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This editions artist is Daniel
Genovesi who designed our
front cover in his usual
colourful style. Amanda Barnes
interviews him to fnd out what
brings the colour to his life.
How would you describe yourself to
someone who has never met you?
As a child I applied myself to
education, but I had an almost
uncontrollable behaviour, I was
restless and always anxious to be
doing lots of things at the same
time I studied, I went to take
swimming lessons until I could
compete in the sport. With time
I changed swimming for rugby,
where I made some
unforgettable friends, and I started
to share my passion for painting
with my mother more she is an
artist but dedicated herself
completely to having a family,
leaving art on one side. This
shared passion from a young age
was my motor, because since I was
a child I wanted to make drawings
and create my own characters and
imaginary worlds with which I
enjoyed playing with. Time
showed me how to take out the
millions of colours and forms in
my mind, giving life to sheets of
paper, wood, fabrics and objects.
And as I say now Every object
that supports my art it turns into
my own support.
What inspires creativity in you?
I am a multi-disciplinary artist
because the ideas that are
generated in my mind, those that I
externally receive and those that I
invent in some moment of the
day I have to download them.
I always fnd a strength in what ac-
cepts so much craziness. Therefore
what inspires me is the illogical
within reality.
Why did you decide to open a
workshop and gallery in Palermo?
For a long time Ive wanted to open
a workshop in Buenos Aires
After much looking I fnally foung
one that killed me - it was love at
frst sight! And the rest was just a
question of time. The thing is that
after two months I opened my own
studio, I felt fulflled!
Describe life in Buenos Aires in 5
words.
Dizzying, hectic, fun, enthusiastic
and promising.
You have explored many different
areas of art in your time
(architecture, design, audiovisual
to name a couple), have you found
one that you enjoy the most?
Of course the art of making and
creating.
You also teach art courses. What is
the greatest lesson one can learn
in art?
I give art clinics and the best lesson
is to start from the beginning!
Nobody can achieve anything they
try to do by being rushed and even
less so when you dont even know
what you want to obtain with a mix
of colours. The base is the most
important as it serves to hold up
everything that is built on top of it.
If you werent an artist here in
Argentina in 2014, what would you
be, when and where?
I would be an artist in whichever
part of the world, I feel that I always
was one. Where? Surely in a
great city or capital because I like
big challenges, and Im also very
metropolitan. When? In whichever
moment! I still havent managed to
sit still and make roots in one place.
I am always thinking in producing
and generating art work and this
makes me travel and feel that I can
take on any project in any place and
continent.
Artist profle /// DANIEL GENOVESI
Interview by AMANDA BARNES
info@danielgenovesi.com
(11) 15 640 40044.
www.danielgenovesi.com
facebook.com/daniel.genovesi
@danigenovesii
17
You can visit Daniels workshop
and showroom in Palermo
(Humboldt 1550, L 4, Palermo
Hollywood) or contact him
Claire Mc Keever
Coming from a small coastal town in
Ireland, Claire fell in love with travelling at
a young age and now lives in Buenos Aires
working as a writer and in marketing. You
can follow her life and travel stories at
herworldseyeview.tumblr.com

. .,

S
o what does one do in the middle
of Winter in Buenos Aires? Go for
Afternoon Tea of course. Yes, it may
not seem like the typical Argentine
experience yet this quintessential English
tradition has very much made its way
across the pond and locals cant get
enough of it. However, there is one notable
difference to the English version and that
is Argentines prefer their tea (like their
dinner) a little later, afternoon tea here
normally arrives anytime after 5pm
As the weather takes a slight dip, there
seems to be no better time to treat oneself
to a spot of tea and whatever else just
happens to fall onto your plate. In the
spirit of 5 OClock tea, Claire Mc Keever
recommends five tried and tested places
to get you started:
MALVON
With two bases in Villa Crespo and
Palermo, Malvon makes a great option for
afternoon/early evening tea. I visited the
Villa Crespo branch and was immediately
impressed with the welcoming and warm
interior; filled with vintage decor and rustic
charm. For Hora de T there is a unique
choice of Tealosophy teas, including
Chelsea Garden (Rose, Lavender and
Madagascar Vanilla Tea) and a great selec-
tion of baked treats to choose from. After
much deliberation, I went for a traditional
Earl Grey, Maracuya (passionfruit)
cheesecake and of course, the obligatory
scone with cream and jam. Simply divine.
Lafinur 3275, Palermo (11) 4807-1458.
Mon & Tues 8 - 20.30; Wed - Sun 8 -
midnight. Serrano 789, Villa Crespo (11)
4774-2563. Daily 9 - 20.30.
FLORENCIO
Florencio, a patisserie and brasserie, will
have your mouth watering before youve
even cross its threshold; the smell and
sight of freshly made cakes hitting you on
arrival. A small but perfectly formed cafe
that will make you feel right at home in its
cosy surroundings. The owner is in fact
Maria Laura DAloisio, a well-known
Argentinian TV chef, so you will
immediately feel in safe hands as you sit
down to your tea and cake.
Francisco de Vittoria 2364, Recoleta
(11) 4807-6477. Mon - Sat, 9 - 20, & late
nights Wed & Fri.
LAS VIOLETAS
Located in Almagro, the stained glass
windows, shades of lavender and grand
interior of Las Violetas make it hard to
miss. Built 129 years ago, the building is
still a favourite for Hora de T and not
surprisingly hard to beat in terms of its
authenticity and charm. Once inside there
is a buzzy atmosphere and great people
watching opportunities. The Hora de Te
itself is quite an undertaking, with a wide
selection of breads and baked treats,
accompanied by a large pot of tea...
But whos complaining?
Av. Rivadavia 3899 (corner of Medrano),
Almagro (11) 4958 7387.
LORANGERIE
If youre wanting to go all out then the
Afternoon Tea at LOrangerie at the
Alvear Hotel is a must; expect white linen
tablecloths, the finest china, a special
house blend, Alvear Tea blend, and ornate
pastries made by an onsite pastry chef.
Exquisite is a word that pops to mind and
definitely a good option if youre on the
look out for a fancier affair!
Avda. Alvear 1891, Centre (11) 4808-2949.
Mon - Sat 16.30 - 19, Sun 17 - 19.
NUCHA
After over 30 years of business, its no won-
der that Nucha has nailed it when it comes
to sweet treats and their Hora de T is no
exception. On offer at any one of its twelve
sites across the city are endless pastries,
cakes and breads to choose from along
with a nice cuppa, making it hard to believe
it all began in a humble kitchen in Belgrano.
A personal favourite is Nuchas dulche de
leche filled tortas (in fact, anything dulche
de leche related gets my vote). Not only
that but they also do deliveries, so you can
organise your very own 5 OClock Tea in
the comfort of your own home.
Different locations | Salguero 2587, Cervio
4417, Sucre 664, Armenia 1540, Lafinur
3368, Zabala and OHiggins, Parana 1343,
Patio Bullrich, Nicaragua 6055, Casa del
Angel, Pacheco de Melo 1865, Centro
Comercial Nordelta, Galerias Pacifico.
www.nucha.com.ar
.

LOrangerie Alvear
Nucha Tea
Nucha - Tortas
Buenos Aires Market, pop-up, monthly
I went to Barracas last weekend and all I bought was
some black garlic is not a usual statement unless were
referring to Buenos Aires Market. One of the newer
mercados on the block, this outdoor extravaganza holds
particular appeal given that it springs up in a different
neighbourhood each month. From Palermo Woods to
Barrancas de Belgrano and more recent addition El
Dorrego on the cusp of Palermo Hollywood and
Colegiales, the usual yet dependable suspects gather to
sell their wares in a different indoor or outdoor venue.
From mushrooms and honey to Wapi cheese and
plenty of jams and wholewheat pasta, the emphasis is on
healthy rather than organic across the board. BA Market
also manages to combine small producers with more
well-known brands such as olive oil behemoth Zuelo. Treat
the BA Market like a marathon with some tactics: arrive
early before the middle-class masses; sharpen elbows to
ensure a place at the front of the queues; go hungry to
take advantage of the sandwiches, salads and wheatgrass
juices. www.buenosairesmarket.com
Mercado de San Telmo, every day
While you might pay a few pesos more than usual for
some coriander or a kilo of vaco for that afternoons
asado, the fact is you can always depend on San Telmo
market when you need to source a healthy-looking bunch
of green goodness or that slab of meat. Not to be
confused with the weekend-only Fera de San Pedro
Telmo street fair, many visitors tend to make a beeline
for the knick-knacks and antiques at this 1897-built indoor
market that takes up an entire block. In fact, the secret is
to go with an empty shopping basket to stock up on fresh
and handsome produce or perhaps some essential
entrails - that might not make it to your local
neighbourhood store, and when only the finest vine
tomatoes will do. Given that there are numerous fruit
and veg stands means you get to shop around under one
roof to find exactly what you want. Also stop off at Coffee
Town, slap bang in the middle of the market, for a little
caffeine mouth-to-mouth. Bolivar and Estados Unidos
Mercado del Progreso, Monday to Saturday
While fresh-off-the-boat tourists wax lyrical about the joys
(and they are many) of San Telmo Market, those who are
truly in the know head in one direction only: to Caballitos
Mercado del Progreso. In business since 1889, its well
stocked, well priced and even quite close to Palermo
for those not keen on leaving the hood. With an ample
selection of butchers, verduleros and even fishmongers in
this neck of the woods, this might be the most authentic
indoor market in Buenos Aires.Rivadavia 5430
www.mercadodelprogreso.com.ar
Mercado Central, Monday to Friday
If the thought of facing the dawn chorus and public
transport together turn your blood to icicles, then the
following market is not for you. But if the prospect of
stuffing up your freezer with all kinds of meat and food
stuffs at cost price at five in the morning is a huge
turn-on, then schlep it out to Tapiales (where?) on the
number 8 bus to Central Market. Take a rucksack or a
trolley and fill it up real good - this is not an expedition
youll be keen to repeat in the near future. Word of
warning: the possibility of bumping into your regular
verdulero is high so avoid eye contact at all times -
you just cost him his job. www.mercadocentral.gob.ar
Mobile markets, Tuesday to Sunday
Where? When? What? Theres nothing quite like the
excitement of a feria itinerante to keep you on your toes.
Popping up in a whopping 12 different neighbourhoods six
days a week, this government initiative has been quite the
hit given that it was set up to keep prices in check on food
basics. From Almagro to La Boca and Colegiales, look out
for the yellow caravans parking up alongside plazas once
a week. While produce can be classed in the category
of the usual suspects, at least you know your lettuce,
tomato and onion salad came in at a decent, possibly
inflation-busting, price. These mobile markets also dabble
in potted plants, bleach and loo roll, and neon clothing.
www.buenosaires.gob.ar
Underground Market, quarterly
Starting out as a project coordinated by the Argentina
Independent website that brought together homesick
foreigners reproducing sweet and savoury goodies that
they couldnt get for love nor money in Argentina, the
Underground Market quickly cemented its reputation
not only for its kooky location on the third floor of the
worker-run IMPA factory in Almagro but for the
unexpected array of foodstuffs on offer. An ideal kickoff
point for those looking to get a new idea out into the
open, Bratwurst sausages, Adentro Dinner Clubs
limoncello, KelinCakes choccie and banana muffins,
Katherines fudge and Oh Yeah Its Vegan have delighted
punters over the past two years.
www.argentinaindependent.com
Mercado de Juramento, Monday to Saturday
Naturally the well-heeled in Belgrano have their own,
extremely decent indoor market that comes as a
welcome relief if you usually head up that way to traipse
around Chinatown and still come up with nothing thanks
to the crowds. Another chip off the old block given that
it was founded in 1891, Juramento (whose real name is
Feria Model de Belgrano) has plenty of top-notch butchers
under its roof specialising in more exotic cuts of meat
such as llama and caiman.
Juramento 2500
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f the closest you can get to sampling
pricey tasting menus and celebrity cooks
is watching the judges on MasterChef,
how about going back to basics and
whipping up your own culinary
extravaganza? Or, perhaps youre simply
after some organic produce that are lacking
in high-street supermarkets? While some
food markets, such as Sabe La Tierra, have
been around for donkeys years highlighting
sustainable consumption and supporting
small producers, other newer ones -
trading on the celebrity of the ever-popular
foodie scene but welcome nonetheless -
are helping to open up the often-narrow
Argentine palate. From organic to pop-up,
weekly, monthly and even country-specifc
offerings, this is our guide to food markets
in Buenos Aires.
THIS LITTLE
PIGGY WENT
TO MARKET
21
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Organic
While organic isnt an official categorisation in a
legislative sense in Argentina, there are plenty of
producers around the country that adhere to such
growing norms and dont use pesticides or chemicals.
From wine to dairy, fruit and veg, meat, olive oil and
bread, you can pick up organic produce from several
markets around the city. Simply bear in mind that meat
or eggs, for example, might be classified as free-range
rather than organic in other parts of the world.
Palermo holds a decent hand in organic markets, with
the small yet almost perfectly formed Punto Verde
(Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Dorrego 1429,
www.mercadopuntoverde.com.ar) and Mercado Solida-
rio Bonpland (Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Bonpland
1661), which stocks a wide variety of fresh goods as well
as sustainable wares that support indigenous
communities and opens late until 10pm, leading the pack.
One must-visit is Chacaritas El Galpn (Wednesdays
and Saturdays, Federico Lacroze 4171,www.elgalpon.
org.ar), a yellow, corrugated-iron shed located next to the
railway line that also houses its own organic garden and
restaurant. Meanwhile San Telmo Verde has a keen line
in fresh produce as well as ready-to-eat treats (Tuesdays
and Fridays, Per 677).
Meanwhile, its worth the train ride to Sabe la Tierra
(Saturdays, San Fernando station, Tren de la Costa, www.
sabelatierra.com), thats been bringing together organic
producers while promoting sustainability that takes place
on the station platform since 2010. Just beginning to
spread its wings, check their website for localised editions
in Vicente Lpez and also Palermo this winter.
Worthy mentions
Masticar, an annual affair organised by some of the
countrys top chefs; Petit March, a Facebook-led event
specialising in French produce; sporadic food fairs on
Avenida de Mayo that celebrate cuisines from around the
world; Raz, an annual epic gathering at Tecnpolis just
outside the city in Vicente Lpez; Under market set up by
young chefs Naiara Calvio and Diego Rizzi.
Sabe la Tierra
Sabe la tierra
Sabe la Tierra
Sorrel Moseley-Williams
is a British journalist who has
lived in Buenos Aires since
2006, after falling for its charms
on a study abroad program.
Turtle-neck thoughts
roam along the frosty streets.
Rosy cheeks match the pinkish lipstick
under their pale complexion.
Eagerly awaiting the suffocating heat,
the aimless naked limbs.
In the meantime,
a myriad of palms gently grab
those coffee mugs,
enchanted by their temporary relief
as the passerby exhales
the first and last of
Our dear, dreaded w inter day.
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George Nelson is a British
journalist and football fan
who is living in Buenos Aires
and enjoys writing about
environmental and social
issues, as well as sport.
F
illing the void left by one of the most enthralling
World Cups in recent memory will be no easy
task - Alejandro Sabellas men took Argentina
to within a hairs breadth of glory, only to be cruelly
denied by Germanys Mario Gtze seven minutes
from time. However, Los Pumas will be hoping
to heal the hearts of a nation as 2014 Rugby
Championship kicks off August 16.
Expectations will undoubtedly be lower given that
the other three teams making up the party are
arguably the strongest rugby outfits on the planet:
New Zealand, Australia, and South Africa. But as
history dictates, Argentina is more than capable
of upsetting the big guns on the field of play. Not
only did the team finish third in the 2007 World Cup
but only narrowly lost to England in the 2011 group
stage before eventually falling prey against the All
Blacks in the quarter finals, despite leading after 30
minutes.
Formally known as the Tri Nations, the Rugby
Championship formed after the inclusion of
Argentina in 2012 in what was described as a
defining moment for South American rugby by
South Africa, New Zealand and Australia Rugby
(SANZAR) chief Greg Peters. Before joining the
tournament, Argentina was the only tier one rugby
nation with no regular competition. For years
Argentine rugby has been seeking to participate in
an annual tournament. Los Pumas play a different
brand of rugby to the other three teams, said
Peters.
Each leg of the tournament is referred to by a
different name: The Castle Rugby Championship in
South Africa, The Investic Rugby Championship in
New Zealand, The Personal Rugby Championship
in Argentina, and the Castrol Edge Rugby
Championship in Australia.
Argentinas newly appointed captain, Worcester
Warriors hooker Agustin Creevy, will be planning
to shock South Africa in Pretoria before hosting
The Springboks a week later in Salta, August
23. Both Creevy and head coach Daniel Hourcade
are seeking Argentinas debut triumph in the
competition although a number of performances
have shown promise including a 16-16 draw against
South Africa in 2012.
This is an immense joy. I did not expect this
as there are many other players with important
qualities, said Creevy, who has 28 caps, upon
25
THE
RUGBY
CHAMPIONSHIP
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receiving the captaincy. I receive it with great
honour and I hope to keep guiding our players.
One player aiming to dictate the play for the
Argentines is 26-year-old fly half Martn Landajo,
who has big boots to fill. Felipe Contepomi held
down the position for 15 years and is regarded as
a legend of the game after tallying a total of 651
points and 87 caps for Los Pumas. Landajo has
impressed though, as well as new comers Jernimo
de la Fuente, Lucas Noguera Paz and Santiago
Gonzlez Iglesias.
Results have been a little mixed since Hourcades
appointment in 2013 but an impressive victory
over Italy in Rome provided encouragement for a
number of those making up the young and largely
inexperienced squad. Thirty players were taken to a
Florida training camp during July in a bid to gel the
team, many of whom play in England and France.
Traditionally, Argentina is known for possessing a
strong pack and for being incredibly physical in both
open play and the tackle. The team certainly plays
to its strength and the players representing Los
Pumas have built up a reputation over the years
for putting their bodies on the line.
Argentinas first match against South Africa will
be tough - The Springboks also enjoy a fierce
physical reputation, perhaps even more so than
the Argentines. Pretorias Loftus Versfeld Stadium
is a hostile place to visit, especially after a lengthy
trans-Atlantic flight, but one thing is for certain, the
Argentines will give everything.
After hosting South Africa a week later, Argentina
have a 13 day break before travelling to New
Zealand, who boast a 100% record in the Rugby
Championship and are the current holders of the
cup. Seven days later Australia awaits on the Gold
Coast. Return legs against the South Hemisphere
heavyweights will then take place in Estadio
Cuidado de La Plata just outside Buenos Aires La
and Mendozas Estadio Malvinas Argentinas.
The underdog status of Argentinas rugby team
might well work in its favour and the players
will take inspiration from the likes of World Cup
heroes Lionel Messi, Angel di Maria, and Ezequiel
Garay. The heartbreak of Brazil can hopefully be
utilised into a driving force by Hourcades troops
- every game will be treated as a cup final by the
Argentines during the six weeks of the Rugby
Championship and as a result is likely to be a
trilling watch.
ARGENTINAS FIXTURES
Aug 16
South Africa vs. Argentina
Pretoria
Aug 23
Argentina vs. South Africa
Salta
Sept 6
New Zealand vs. Argentina
Napier
Sept 13
Australia vs. Argentina
Gold Coast
Sept 27
Argentina vs. New Zealand
La Plata
Oct 4
Argentina vs. Australia
Mendoza
DESTINATION GUIDE / SKI & SNOW SPOTS IN ARGENTINA
As it gets chilly in the capital, it
is getting a lot cooler up in the
mountains and this is the time of
year that is perfect for powder
hunters. With the Andes mountain
range stretching along the entire
spine of Argentina there are
numerous resorts dotted along the
length of the country.
Here is a pick of the best three resorts
to get your snow season fx!
CERRO CASTOR
& USHUAIA
SKI
The southernmost slopes in the world, Cerro
Castor is just 26km from Ushuaia and usually has
guaranteed snow till October - which, considering
the season started in June, makes it one of the
longest ski seasons in Argentina.
This area has become one of the favourite spots
for European professionals who come here during
their Summer for excellent off-piste skiing and no
risk of the altitude sickness which can sometimes
affect sportsmen in the higher Andes slopes. With
10 lifts and 28 trails, there is plenty of white stuff to
explore and a snow park to keep you in training on
your skis or snowboards. This is also a favourite spot
for alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, sledding, dog
sledding and snowshoes, and its fabulous location
tucked between forests makes it picture perfect.
www.cerrocastor.com
Season | June - October
Price | Day pass from $540 pesos in high season
APRS-SKI
There is a ski lodge on site but youll have more
fun staying in one of the many accommodation
options in Ushuaia. The city is a year-round
destination for wildlife spotting and getting that
all-important passport stamp from the end of
the world.
Renowned for the fabulous centolla (king crab),
other shellfish and rich Patagonian lamb, most
aprs-ski action in Ushuaia involves eating
and drinking while staying warm in the many
restaurants. Other attractions are the museums,
the train at the end of the world
www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar, and the
spectacular Tierra del Fuego National Park.
Whether you want to stay in the city or in one of
the host of more luxury options on the hillsides
surrounding the port, there are plenty of places to
choose from: Arakur is the newest and flashiest
hotel in Ushuaia with stunning bay views and
an indoor-outdoor pool in the middle of a nature
reserve www.arakur.com; Los Caquenes Spa and
Resort offers a handsome vantage point along the
Beagle Channel and a well equipped spa as well
as their own private boat for excursions into the
Channel to visit the wildlife www.loscauquenes.
com; and Cumbres del Martial offers quaint
snow-surrounded cabins with a traditional and cosy
English tea house www.cumbresdelmartial.com.ar
right next to the glacier.
HOW TO GET THERE
Ushuaia is a 3.5hr direct flight from Buenos Aires,
or a two day bus journey via Rio Gallegos.
CERRO CATEDRAL
& BARILOCHE
SKI
With over 120kms of slopes, and 600 hectares
to discover by ski, Cerro Castor is the biggest ski
resort in South America. One of the first ski resorts
in Argentina, Cerro Catedral is one of the most
established and extensive ski destinations here.
There are 39 lifts to get you up to over 50 well-marked
runs which cater for all types of skiers from newbies
to advanced black run and off-piste fans. There is
a kids club to keep the children entertained so the
adults can go off and play, and there are schools and
practice parks to hone your skills on the powder.
www.catedralaltapatagonia.com
Season | June - October
Price | Day pass from $615 in high season

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist and
wine writer who has been enjoying finding
her ski legs in Argentina, but has been
enjoying the aprs-ski vino a little more.
www.amandabarnes.co.uk
amanda_tweeter
Ski at Cerro castor
Cabin
Ski at Cerro Catedral
Ski lift - Cerro Castor
Ski lift - Cerro Catedral
Ushuaia city
29
APRS-SKI
Just 20kms from Bariloche, most people stay in the
popular mountain destination when visiting Cerro
Catedral. Bariloche is famous for its beautiful lake
district, homemade chocolate and artisanal brews.
While the weather might be a bit windy for too
much walking, youll certainly want to save some
of your calf power for after the slopes to explore
the many different treks that are accessible nearby
the city. Another popular pastime here is fishing,
which can be done as catch-and-release all year
round.
If you are weary after the snow though, Bariloche
is the ideal place for warming hot chocolates and a
relaxing pint or two of home brews. The pretty city
centre is easily walk-able and you can poke your
head between the different chocolatiers, bars and
restaurants with ease.
Accommodation runs from simple hostels and B&Bs
to the renowned luxury of Llao Llao Golf & Spa resort
located in a perfect ambling spot on one of the lower
mountains in the national park www.llaollao.com;
the aptly named Charming resort close to downtown
but with the luxury of private spas in each suite and
a restaurant overlooking the lake www.charming-
bariloche.com; or get a flavour of estancia life at
Peuma Hue luxury estancia with horse-riding and
boat trips from their private estate only 30mins
from the ski slopes www.peuma-hue.com.
HOW TO GET THERE
Direct flights from Buenos Aires are a little over 2
hours, or you can take a 20-24hr bus journey from
the capital.
LAS LENAS &
MENDOZA

SKI
With 29 pistas around this beautiful mountain
setting in the high Andes, the weather here is
usually so sunny that you can ski in a t-shirt!
With a range of runs for different abilities as
well as off-piste routes, Las Leas reaches up
to 3,430 meters above sea level offering you an
exhilarating 1200m vertical drop down to the
2,240m base point.
A handful of hotels, a kids club and a wide range
of lessons made this a nice pick for those who
really want to focus on good skiing in the sunshine.
www.laslenas.com
Season | late June - mid September
Price | Day pass from $585 in high season
APRS-SKI
What could be better for aprs-ski then being in the
heart of Argentine wine land? The closest big city
to Las Leas is Mendoza, at 450km (6 hour bus
journey, or 4.5 hour drive) from the ski resort this is
the best bet for a fun base to recover after a couple
days on the snow. Mendoza is renowned for its over-
flowing wine culture, great gastronomy and beautiful
mountain scenery. Spend a couple days here touring
wineries, walking in the mountains or exploring the
other nearby ski resort in Penitentes
www.lospenitentes.com.
Alternatively stay in San Rafael for another Malbec-
soaked destination. This smaller city has wineries
within cycling distance and if you hire a car or join a
tour you can also explore San Rafaels version of the
Grand Canyon, Cann del Atuel with its beautiful,
bare and colourful rocks framed by a sparkling blue
lake of water where you can kayak (if you are brave!)
and go on nature-spotting walks.
Closer to the ski resort is the small town of Malargue
which is renowned for its chivito (kid goat) and
astronomy museums and observatories. There
are mainly hostels and B&Bs in Malargue, while
in San Rafael you will find a mix of hostels, hotels
and a popular boutique hotel and wine lodge just
outside of town, Algodon Wine Estates www.
algodonwineestates.com If you do decide to stay
in Mendoza before or after skiing there is a wide
range of accommodation options including ultra-
luxury offerings like Cavas Wine Lodge www.
cavaswinelodge.com in Lujan de Cuyo, Entre Cielos
www.entrecielos.com in Vistalba or The Park Hyatt
www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com right in the city centre.
HOW TO GET THERE
There is a weekly flight to Malargue, or daily flights
to San Rafael, or Mendoza from Buenos Aires,
each direct flight is between 1.5 - 2 hours. By car,
Malargue is an hour from Las Leas, San Rafael
is 2hrs away and Mendoza is 4.5hrs away. Or take
a 15 hour bus journey from Buenos Aires to Las
Lenas or Malargue; or a 13 hour bus to Mendoza
where you can also connect to San Rafael.
Base Point
Ski at Las Leas
Bariloche City Ski lift
Downtown Mendoza
Kayak at Can del Atuel
31
Lauren Miner is a writer and consultant from
the US living in Argentina. She enjoys sushi,
dance, yoga and travel, and you can read
about her attempts at healthy living while in
the land of empanadas at Active Expat
www.activeexpat.com

Hang in there, just another

3 pull-ups to go is what
I tell myself, as my body
shakes with exhaustion and my
breath turns ragged. Ive already
done somewhere between 100
and 500 sit-ups, more than a
minute of burpees - the gym
move created by some evil
genius that combines pushups
and jumping; and Ive still got at
least 5 minutes of squats ahead
of me. All of which, Ill need to
repeat again at my instructors
command. Am I in some
boot-camp training center? Nope.
What Im describing is the first
20 minutes of my pole dance
class, the new, hot fitness trend
making its mark in Buenos Aires.
Its not common knowledge,
but in the past 20 years pole
dancing has left the strip club
to gain international popularity
as a form of exercise in which
men and women can build
strength, gain cardio endurance,
and achieve their fitness goals.
Today, everyone from celebrities
including Amy Adams, Heather
Graham, Cindy Crawford, and
Teri Hatcher to soccer moms
are enjoying the great workout
that pole dance provides.
Pole dancing is classed as
strength-based interval training,
combining isotonic and isometric
movements to provide an all-
over body workout. But besides
being a great fitness routine, pole
dance is also a lot of FUN!
A typical pole dance class begins
with strength training, dance-
based moves, and traditional
exercises such as squats,
push-ups, and sit-ups; and
gradually works its way up to
spins, climbs and inversions.
Similar to equipment-free
boot-camp classes, pole uses
your body as the weight and
resistance to help you gradually
build core and general body
strength over time. Dancers
might make it look easy, but
hanging upside down with only
an arm or a leg to hold you takes
a ton of balance, flexibility and
strength. The ideal clothing is
shorts and a sports-bra - your
skin against the pole causes
friction that can help keep you
in the air and off the ground, but
if youre just starting classes for
the first time, shorts and a t-shirt
should provide enough comfort
and freedom to move easily.
In Argentina there are a number
of studios bringing this fitness
trend to the streets of Buenos
Aires. Just like gyms at home
though, each has its own distinct
teaching style that will suit
individuals differently depending
on their personal preferences.
My experience with pole dance
has taught me that there are
primarily three types of studios.
First, there are those that
are artistically inclined. They
tend to be serious schools for
learning artistry and proper
pole technique. Think of a ballet
class, but with a vertical barre.
Secondly, youve got studios
focused on the dance aspect of
pole. In this case, its common
for the class to be more sensual
and movement oriented. It
may even incorporate female
empowerment strategies to help
you build mental confidence as
you build physical strength. The
third type of studio operates like
a gym. Simply put, the pole is a
piece of fitness equipment like
a barbell or a bench press and
the spins, climbs and inversions
are the exercises. Each offers a
great work out, but its up to you
to decide how dance-y or serious
you want to get.
Here are some great local
options for trying out each of the
pole studio styles:
ART DANCE STUDIO
Multiple locations
www.artdancestudio.com.ar
A professional pole studio with a
large presence throughout South
America. Teachers come from
all over the world to train and be
trained by Art Dance Studio. Their
instruction is focused on proper
technique and strength training.
The studio is geared towards
dancers who are interested in a
more intense level of study.
FIT VERTICAL DANCE
Rivadavia 2576 Avenue 1st Floor
www.fitverticaldance.com.ar
Offers dance classes centered
on elongation, strength, dexterity
and acrobatics. Works with all
levels of students from novice to
advanced. Fit Vertical combines
various styles of dance such as
burlesque and belly dance to
keep classes fun and flirty. Ideal
for those looking to tap into their
inner vixen.
BA POLE STUDIO
Juan Ramrez de Velazco 492
www.bapolestudio.com
Studio provides a wide range
of classes focused on specific
aspects of pole dance fitness.
The student body is made up of
woman of all ages and levels of
experience. Teachers adapt their
instruction to meet individual
students needs, while keeping
the classes physically challenging
and varied.
There are many reasons to try
pole dance in Buenos Aires
if you havent taken a spin
before. Besides the overall health
benefits, theres an immediate
reward for your effort because
unlike many forms of exercise
in which you create generic or
distant goals, such as to win a
tournament or to run 26 miles,
in pole theres always a new
move thats just within reach.
Tangible goals makes it highly
motivating, and also extremely
empowering. For these reasons
and more, pole dance is a fun,
effective, and highly adaptive
form of exercise. You wont regret
making pole dance an integral
part of your Argentine fitness
routine!
WORRIED ABOUT THE
LANGUAGE BARRIER?
The great thing about dance
or exercising within a class
setting is that you always have
the ability to watch and follow
along. It doesnt matter if you
dont know the word for squat
in Spanish...if you see that
everyone else is going in to a
squat, theres a good chance that
you should do it too! To find even
more information on pole dance
in Argentina, like where to buy
dance clothes, the buzz around
studios, teacher profiles and
upcoming competitions, check
out www.pole-dance.com.ar
A SPIN ON FITNESS
POLE DANCE CLASSES
IN BUENOS AIRES
33
Helen Appleby is a yoga teacher,
massage therapist, writer and
mother of two young boys. You
can follow her blog at
www.onawingandaprayerblog.
wordpress.com
Whilst Argentinas asado
is deservedly legendary,
there may come a time
when you want to wake
up without feeling youre
still digesting last nights
meal. If you feel in need of
freshening up with some
of the green stuff, wipe the
grease from your chops
and head to these healthy
havens. Whilst parillas
abound these little gems
are scattered about the city
but the green revolution is
here and its growing.
JUEVES A LA MESA
Currently housed in a stunning
late 18th century building, Jueves
a la mesa is a puerta cerrada
restaurant serving up delicious
green fair delivered with integrity
and dedication to the vegetarian
cause.
Ushered into a warmly lit living
room with open kitchen you are
invited to witness chefs Sofia
and Tatu busily working away as
welcome drinks are served.
Twelve new faces then sit round
a large communal table ready
to devour. So to the food! Zingy
ceviche with green plantain
intrigued the taste buds then
on to a warming soup with
pitch perfect herbs and root
vegetables. Yamani rice with
shiitake mushrooms, omelette
with fennel and sweet potato in
a Huancaina sauce followed. A
quiet revelation was found in the
cardamom infused water (good
for energy) and organic Mendoza
wines which were included in the
reasonable price.
Maybe its the intimacy effect of
being brought into someones
home but there is the distinct
feeling that heart and soul have
been put into this endeavour;
thought and care in its delivery.
To finish | darker than night
chocolate truffles were served
with an exquisitely juicy square
of fresh pineapple and orange
wedges. Fresh mint tea infusions
or coffee see you off.
Food is delicately spiced, light
and wholesome. Founder
Meghan Lewis is behind the
successful Buena Onda yoga
studio which explains the sense
of health and balance evoked in
each mouthful. Palate satisfied,
heartened by lively conversation
and with a palpable glow of
self-righteousness, we departed
feeling wed made new friends.
And would be back.
www.juevesalamesa.
wordpress.com
Address supplied at time of
booking.
ARTEMISIA
Tucked away on a quiet corner
of Palermo Hollywood youll find
this oasis of pescatarian delights.
On arrival a delicious variety of
homemade breads are ushered to
your table with a garlic-humming
hummus. Corn bread, raisin and
rye, seeded, wholemealafter
which I lost count. These breads
are also available to take away, as
well as a selection of muffins and
homemade cakes.
Open from breakfast through
to dinner but to come too early
would be missing the point. The
lunch set menu is great value for
money, (if you dont count the
taxi youll need to transport your
pulse-loaded self to your next
destination). Food is wholesome,
filling and with tasty twists to
the usual vegetarian fair. Mains
include: polenta lasagne stuffed
with stir fried vegetables in a soy
and brown sugar sauce, Thai fish
curry with chestnuts, raisins and
lemon grass as well as delectable
daily specials.
If this sounds too much for
lunch there is an extensive list
of healthy, inventive salads, and
bruschettas. Try crispy polenta
with tomato and cilantro or
roasted pears with goats cheese
on rosemary focaccia and a
quince vinaigrette. Should you
be mad enough to need further
enticement there are small tapas
plates including mouth-watering
beets in ginger, honey and
rosemary and vegetable ceviche.
One drawback | despite its
kooky mismatched crockery/
coloured crochet vibe is the
coldness of the high ceilinged
concrete surrounds. But being
BA its usually sunny enough to
grab one of the outside tables in
the sun. Just bring a warm coat.
Enjoy!
www.artemisianatural.com.ar
Gorriti y Arevalo
Cabrera 4863 4242
Gorriti 4776 5484
NATURALEZA SABIA
A long time staple of San Telmos
herbivorous set, Naturaleza
Sabia offers a refreshing change
of culinary tack. Relaxed and
friendly service greeted us with
a trio of colourful tapenades:
broccoli, tofu and red cabbage.
Accompanied by wholemeal
crackers and washed down with a
shot of hearty soup.
Wholesome halos duly polished
we followed these appetizers
with a meaty and filling lentil
burger and a crispy and crunchier
quinoa burger. Both come with a
cholesterol-raising slab of melted
cheese, tomato salsa, grated
carrot and shredded lettuce.
Soy and tofu based dishes
also abound as well as spinach
35
Thursday table, photo by Ramiro Landeo
Artemisia Natural - Indoor Restaurant
crepes and gnocchi. Granted, not
the most imaginative choices,
perhaps redolent of vegetarian
food served up from the 70s. But
if youre in need of a break from
the white bread/carne onslaught
this place provides welcome
gastric relief.
For lubrication refreshing juices
and smoothies are a plenty,
as well as zippy lemonades.
Notable too was the delicious
range of organic wines and
artisanal beers. If you happen
to have room you could try the
coconut flan with ice cream for
dessert. Its all about Yin and
Yang right?
There is a genuine alternative
vibe to this healthy hub which is
less pretentious than some of its
Palermo dwelling peers.
www.naturalezasabia.com.ar
Balcarce 6454, San Telmo
4300 6454
HIERBA BUENA
If youre not from the
neighbourhood this can seem a
bit of a trek but its well worth
it. A cute little caf-restaurant
lovingly designed: murals painted
in a swirl of inspiring quotes
overlook leather bound chairs
gathered round striped-clothed
tables and a quirky selection of
antiques. Not strictly vegetarian,
the emphasis is on health and
flavour. Everything about this
place is well thought out yet
delivered in an uncontrived,
homely manner.
To whet the appetite: a creamy
yet smokin Babaganoush with
freshly baked bread followed by
falafel soup (yes!) with Garam
Masala. Perfect wholesome
winter warmer.
From here you can go the brunch
route (Eggs Florentine, precision
cooked) or orange brioche with
avocado and warm brie. Or go
for succulent garlic mushroom
burger with wedges and fresh
salad (with a perkier mix of leaves
than the usual flaccid offering).
Creative desserts include warm
chocolate and aniseed soup with
beetroot and raspberry ice-cream,
carrot cake and a coconut and
lemon crme brulee. Mmmm!
To add to this there is a
procrastinators nightmare array
of fresh juices, yoghurt drinks,
lemonades, yerba mate drinks
and wheatgrass shots
Service was charming and
efficient and you can come for
breakfast, brunch or dinner. Full
marks for ambience, service,
flavour and inventiveness.
Definitely a place youll want to
return to.
www.hierbabuena.com.ar
Caseros 454, San Telmo
4362 2542
GREEN EAT
Whilst it is a good thing this
small chain exists in the land of
asado, it lacks the charm and
intimacy of smaller independent
joints. That said its convenient
when in town for a healthy
take away or quick bite and
is extremely popular with the
working set.
Everything is made daily to
avoid the use of preservatives
and flavourings. The focus here
is healthy and fresh as opposed
to vegetarian so there are
smoked salmon bagels amidst
the sushi, soup, wraps and lots
of salads with optional dressing.
In an attempt to lure Porteos
off their usual morning habit
there is homemade granola
with yoghurt and berries. But
happily they still offer cookies,
alfajores y medialunas if youre
feeling the hangover or in more
indulgent mood.
Of note is the range of freshly
baked breadwhilst not as
crunchy or inventive as previous
options, they provide a welcome
respite from the ubiquitous
Bland White Roll. Also
worth checking out are their
homemade mustards and jams.
This is a slick business
endeavour with astute
marketing and branding aimed
to appeal to our body, mind and
soul. But enough cynicism! At
the end of the day they donate
everything they dont sell and
start again fresh the following
day.
www.greeneat.com.ar
Reconquista 690, Micro Centro;
Uruguay 703, Micro Centro;
Santa Fe 1661, Barrio Norte
BUENOS AIRES VERDE
Perennially busy with locals, our
visit coincided with the imminent
start of a World Cup match
and was unusually quiet. Even
then the patient bearded staff
were happy to field an annoying
battery of questions regarding the
provenance of the enticing raw
chocolates. Initially reminiscent
of a student style vegetarian
caf, dont be fooled; this is a
sophisticated operation
Notable is the extensive range of
raw and vegan food. In particular
you might want to check out
the aforementioned array of
chocolates, cakes and cookies
made with cacao, nuts, seeds
and coconut oil. Sublime. They
even produce their own vegan
mayonnaise and almond milk.
In terms of daily specials there
are several risotto options, raw
salads, tarts and soups. Be
warned: options are plentiful,
plates huge.
Vegans and celiacs are also
catered to in the extensive menu
which includes several wok
based dishes, lasagne, bean
burgers, millet burgers, salads
and juices.
To top it off there is a well-
stocked Deli so you can take
home a little goodness. Come
with empty belly and in a decisive
mood!
www.bsasverde.com
Gorriti 5657 (y Fitzroy), Palermo
4775 9594
BIO CAF
With its white and lime green
walls, bamboo, Buddhas and
high ceilings redolent of a yogic
shrine this caf is a wonderful
place to go for a cup of tea,
snack, lunch or dinner. If youve
grown tired of medialunas,
tostadas and steaks, head here
for an inventive selection of
super healthy salads, noodles,
pizzas and soups.
Also a rarity in BA is its range
of healthy infusions aiding
digestion or fighting fatigue.
If youre feeling run down and
bedraggled, just perusing the
menu will make you feel lighter.
That said, its not all wheatgrass
shots and self-restraint; there is
a long dessert menu including
tapioca pancakes with red fruits,
flans, sesame and ginger ice
creams.
For something more filling and
savoury there are lentil burgers
and delicious bruschettas. Or
try curried rice or cashew nut
pizza washed down with a fig
coffee. Homemade wholemeal
bread with tapenade is served
as standard in a cork bowl. Bike
racks and seating outside. You
can also purchase some of their
niche health products. Whats
not to love? A classy original.
www.biorestaurant.com.ar
Humboldt 2192 (Corner of
Humboldt and Guatemala),
Palermo
4774 3880
Naturaleza Sabia - Indoor restaurant
HIerba Buena - Indoor Restaurant
Buenos Aires Verde - Menu of the day
Bio - Indoor restaurant
Green Eat - Indoor
37
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
If you are still on your quest for
more healthy options try these:
LA CRESTA
Bulnes 829, Almagro
LOS SABIOS (VEGAN)
Corrientes 3733, Almagro
MAGENDIE
Honduras 5900, Palermo
TOP GREEN MARKETS
EL GALPN MARKET
Avenida Federico Lacroze 4171
Wed & Sat, 9am-6pm
MERCADO BONPLAND
Bonpland 1660
Tues, Fri & Sat 10am-10pm
HOME DELIVERY OF ORGANIC
FRUIT AND VEG
TALLO VERDE could not make
it easier. No commitment, can
pay in cash or on card. Delivery
to your home often the next day.
www.talloverde.com
Ecological Reserve Faena Hotel Central Market Womens Bridge Buque Museo Corbeta
ARA Uruguay
Buque Museo Fragata
ARA Presidente Sarmiento
Museo del Jamn Buquebus Ferry
ECOLOGICAL
RESERVE
One of the best places to escape
the city in the city, the Ecological
Reserve has duck ponds and green
fields with the sky scraping skyline of
Puerto Madero and the city framing
your countryside walk. At 865 acres,
this is no small nature reserve and
you can amble the nature trails by the
Rio de la Plata for a happy couple of
hours alongside the many Porteos
who come here for a breath of fresh
air at the weekends.
FAENA UNIVERSE
This is quite rightly called a universe,
because Faena has a beautiful hotel,
three restaurants, three bars, live
music, tango shows, an enormous
art gallery, a spa, a pool and a
shop. Located in an old wheat mill,
this historic building - known as El
Porteo - is a prominent feature in
Puerto Madero. However dont let
the dockside brickwork appearance
mislead you (although these arent
your ordinary bricks - each brick
was imported from Manchester,
England), for all the lack of glamour
Faena has on the outside, it more
than makes up for it on the inside.
When fashion designer Alan Faena
saved the building from near
demolition in the early noughties, he
splashed out around $40US million
on refurbishment with the help of
designer Philippe Starck to create the
universe that it is today.
RESTAURANT
SCENE
There are some great restaurants in
Puerto Madero which are not only
popular by night time but the sunny
dockside location make them an
ideal lunch spot. Museo de Jamn
is possibly the first youll come
across if you are walking up from
San Telmo, as it sits on the very first
dique. With Mediterranean flavours
and some of the best jamn crudo
in Buenos Aires, this is a great lunch
or dinner spot with outside tables to
enjoy some seafood or tapas by the
water (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo
2020). Another great spot for lunch
- and for a more casual coffee - is I
Central Market, with two locations
a short walk up. A deli filled with
freshly produced dishes and plenty
of salads, soups and sandwiches to
give any deliberator a run for their
money, there is an ample selection
to choose from if you dine in and
you can also get food on the go as
well as stocking up on some cakes,
nut mixes and foodie gifts to take
home. Bvd. A Villaflor (corner of O.
Cossettini) and P. Dealessi (corner of
M. Guemes).
OFF TO URUGUAY
This is your gateway to Uruguay by
water! The Buquebus terminal is in
Puerto Madero and runs at least five
ferries to Colonia a day (either quick
1 hr journeys, or 3hr journeys) as
well as direct ferries (or bus and ferry
combos) to the capital, Montevideo
and Punta del Este.
LADIES HOOD
If you walk the streets of Puerto
Madero, you are likely to see ladies
that lunch, also ladies heading on a
night out, but there are some other
ladies that might require a more
detailed look Take a note of the
road signs and youll quickly realize
every street in Puerto Madero is
named after women. This new zone
was dedicated to all the important
and influential women in Argentinas
history. The biggest nod to the fairer
sex in Puerto Madero though is
undoubtedly the Womens Bridge
(Puente de la Mujer) at Dock 3.
The impressive swing bridge with
its iconic single mast with cables
was designed by Spanish architect
Santiago Calatrava and creates a
unique shape in the area, acting as a
beacon for Puerto Madero, especially
when it is lit up at night.
BOATS
One of the best things about ports
are of course the boats. There are
lots of handsome sailboats bobbing
in the waters, but there are really
two boats that people come to see:
Sarmiento and Uruguay. On Dock
4 is Buque Museo Corbeta ARA
Uruguay - built in England in 1874, it
was taken to Argentina in the same
year and served as Argentinas first
training naval ship and is probably
the oldest ship in South America.
Throughout its history it has been
a gunboat, a school ship, and an
Antarctic rescue ship among other
uses. It was declared a national
monument in 1963 and now serves
as a museum boat. The other big
ship - and also a museum boat - in
the water is the Buque Museo
Fragata ARA Presidente Sarmiento
at Dock 3. Another training ship,
the Sarmiento was constructed in
the late 1890s and has made six
circumnavigations of the globe. Most
of the other boats in the waters are
private hang around long enough
though and you might just get an
invitation on board!
As one of the most successful port renovation projects in South America, walking
around Puerto Madero today you might be surprised to fnd out that up until 1999 it
wasnt much more than an area for rusting ships and declining warehouses. The
port was built in 1987, but its glory days only lasted 15 years till another port
was built in 1911 rendering Puerto Madero a bit useless. The renovation
process over the last two decades have however returned Puerto
Madero to its shining glory and this is one of the more pleasant
spots of the city to spend an afternoon walking around in the
sunshine by the river. It is the home of the high rise in BA, but
also to many of the more exciting modern architecture of
the city. The busy restaurant and bar scene also make
it a popular night haunt, and it homes some of the
most sought-after waterfront apartments.
By Amanda Barnes
39
Womens bridge
Buquebus Terminal
ARA Uruguay
Museo del Jamn
Ecological Reserve
Fragata Sarmiento
Central Market
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PUERTO
MADERO
IN FOCUS
specialties is suckling pig. The modern
Puerto Madero location is perfect for a
harbor side walk afterwards.
Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de
Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto
Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch
& dinner. $$$$$
CASA CRUZ
This restaurant has a long history of
providing top quality food, and now having
been taken back over by sommelier and
Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza,
pasta and parilla! There is so much more
to Buenos Aires food scene though and
this is a quick glance guide to some of the
gastronomy gems you can discover in the
city. Dont forget that Argentineans dine late
at night with most restaurants not opening
much before 8pm and often still serving till
gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.
CAF SAN JUAN
Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater
and a tattoo afcionado and his unique
personal style is refected in his simple
but adventurous dishes. With the menu
scrawled on chalkboards and changing on
an almost daily basis, this has become a
frm favourite of Portenos and tourists so
much so that a spin off sister restaurant
has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La
Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical
Argentine dishes with a twist served in a
relaxed setting in a retro-style diner.
Caf San Juan, San Juan 450 (between
Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 4300-
1112. Reservations recommended. Open
Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$
DON JULIO
A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don
Julio is often on peoples not to miss list
for visiting the city and with packed tables
almost every night you can see why. This
traditional restaurant serves perfectly
cooked slabs of beef that will please any
meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine
trained servers will also be able to help
you pick out a top choice Malbec to go
with your steak. If you order one of the
pricier bottles youll be asked to sign the
bottle with your refections on the meal to
be displayed around the restaurant.
Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner
Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564.
Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$
MUSEO DEL JAMON
This really is a museum to the glory of
jamn, with cured ham legs swinging
from the rafters that have come from
high quality producers in Argentina and
specialized producers from the mecca of
jamn - Spain. Imported foodie goods are
tough to get your hands on in Argentina,
but the Museo have brought in different
delicious jamones as well as salami and
chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish
vino! Its not just cured meats though - you
can feast on seafood, shellfsh, homemade
pastas and paella, and one of their house
foodie Aldo Graziani Casa Cruz is back on
top of its game with some of the best steak
in town and a more relaxed atmosphere.
Perky jazz and an eclectic mix of music set
the scene for this upscale yet unpretentious
restaurant where you can order delicious
cocktails or wine from a list that will take
any wine lover at least an hour to pick from.
Pick a red though because the best thing
here is the steak: juicy with a distinctive,
rich favour hinged with herbal notes and a
smoky fnish - the secret of how they cook
it remains in the kitchen.
Pesos per person for average meal (main
+ starter/dessert, excluding drinks)
P
R
I
C
E

G
U
I
D
E
0 / 75
75 / 150
150 / 225
225 / 300
over 300
$
$ $
$ $ $
$ $ $ $
$ $ $ $ $
RESTAURANT GUIDE
Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658 (between El
Salvador and Honduras) Palermo (11) 4833
1112. $$$$
BAR DU MARCHE
A French-chic bistro with around 50 wines
by the glass and a handful of different
dishes including foie gras, fsh carpaccio
and lamb cooked in Malbec. While there is
plenty of delectable bites served here, the
main focus is on the wine. And not only
for Argentine wines but also for a nice (but
obviously small) selection of foreign wines.
Ideal for winos who like a bit of cheese on
the side as they also serve some of the best
artisanal cheese in town, and the staff will
happily pair it for you.
Bar du Marche, Nicaragua 5946 (between
Arevelo and Ravignani), Palermo (11) 4778
1050. Lunch & Dinner, Closed Sundays. $$$
BELLAGAMBA
If you want a traditional Argentine bodegon
(tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the
most centrally located ones still sending out
milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time
the same way it did since opening in 1900.
Started by a couple Italian immigrants, the
motive behind this bodegon is flling food
and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere.
Cheap, cheerful and authentic.
Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin
and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833.
Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$
SARKIS
Serving food as if it were in Armenia,
and un-translated menus to match, this is
a great spot for those on a budget who
want to taste some proper Middle Eastern
food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit
rushed this isnt your spot for a fancy
date but it will keep you happy with its
keppe, big portions and unpretentious
Armen-tinean favours.
Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufr and
Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open
daily Lunch & Dinner. $
COCINA SUNAE
Christina Sunae has been in the kitchen
since she was 14 learning from her Filipino
family and brings her Asian infuences
to this well-established closed door
restaurant. With four courses inspired
by the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia
and Malaysia youll be treated to some of
Christinas home comforts like Thai shrimp
curry, tangy Ube crepes flled, and green
tea ice cream. The menu changes weekly
but theres a trademark tickle of spice, and
if youve been in BA too long you can take
home some of her homemade hot sauce to
spice up your life!
Cocina Sunae, (secret location) Colegiales,
(15) 4870 5506, www.cocinasunae.com
$$$
SIAMO NEL FORNO
Even though Argentina has a huge Italian
infuence, most of the pizza here can be
disappointing with thick, spongy bases, an
inch of plastic cheese and an inundation of
grease. Siamo nel Forno however makes
pizza like youd expect it in Naples: thin
crispy base, with a tasty splash of tomato
and only a sprinkle of for formaggio.
Cooked in a real wood oven youll be crying
mamma mia over your margherita. Dont
miss trying the Nutella pizza for dessert.
Siamo nel Forno, Costa Rica 5886
(between Ravignani and Carranza) Palermo
(11) 4775-0337. Dinner Tue Sun. $$
SUCRE
Voted one of Latin Americas Top 50
restaurants, Sucre is not short of bookings.
But if you get a table at this chic and
minimalist restaurant in Belgrano, you
are in for some of the best fusion food
around town. Chef Fernando Trocca blends
Mediterranean cuisine with Japanese,
Peruvian and Argentine infuences to
create fresh and inspiring dishes. Using
seasonal produce he is also a big fan
of using every part of the renowned
Argentine cow so expect to see some less
common cuts of meat. For a more pocket
friendly experience of Sucre, try out their
lunch menu which has 2 courses for $170.
Sucre, Sucre 676 (between Figueroa
Alcorta and Castaeda) Belgrano (11) 4782
9082. Reservations 24 hours previously
online, open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$$$
EL BAQUEDANO
While carne is king in Argentina, there are
some other carnes that often get neglected
while all eyes are on the revered cow. This
restaurant celebrates all the other meats of
Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas
and even alligator. It is Mar del Plata chef
Fernando Rivarola who is championing the
underside of Argentinas carnivorous food
culture and he does it with great style in
a seven course tasting menu or a la carte.
Dont miss the llama carpaccio.
El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar),
San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues
Sat. $$$$$
41
GUIDO RESTAURANT
This intimate low-lit restaurant is a slice of Italy in Palermo. Owner Guido Sosto has Italian
roots and this modern bar and restaurant is a second generation take on la bella Italia in
Argentina. Photos of Italian starlets line the walls and red-checkered tablecloths, heavy
red velvet curtains and ambient lighting create a sea of colour accompanied by smooth
jazz (or the resident DJ some nights) which plays in the background competing with the
content chatter of regulars and large groups of friends and families.
With an interesting and varied wine list (including some foreign bottles!) youll fnd it a
tough choice between wine or the happy hour cocktail list, but either way it goes down
very easily as you munch on their Italian-style nibbles including marinated vegetables,
tasty prosciutto, and every porteos favourite - faina (a chickpea pizza-style starter).
The main menu comprises pasta, risotto and proper Italian pizza along with a healthy
selection of salads, meat and fsh dishes, and the ultimate cheese indulgence: creamy
burrata (dressed with pesto, smoked salmon or truffe oil). Highly recommended is
gathering a group of friends, ordering a large pizza with a few starters and salads for a
family-style feast with a couple good wines. When the nights become warmer you should
also check out the pretty patio garden for some dining al fresco.
If you are looking for a warming Italian meal and a nice vibe, head to Guidos.
Guido Restaurant, Cervino Boulevard 3943 (near the Zoologico), Palermo. (11) 4802 1262.
Evenings Tues Sat. $$$
BASA
This new and alluring basement bar-restaurant serves great cocktails and tasteful tapas
in an attractive downtown location where you can get the night started on an intimate,
candle-lit table with delightful nibbles and dribbles, and then when the clock strikes
midnight you can move on to the dance foor to pick up the rhythm with the live DJs.
This spacious lounge bar is set aglow by a large bar at the back which is where you should
head for the frst call of the night to work your way through their impressive cocktail list.
Try out BASA signature drinks such as Te quiero tanto (a gin, Gancia and raspberry fzz)
and Daisy Salteo (a Torrontes cocktail with Drambuie, grapefruit and mint), stick with the
classics or muse at the long list of spirits and Argentine wine.
Delve into the original tapas on offer: homemade black pudding disks topped with fried
quails eggs are an earthy and rich treat; their own tasty interpretation of a Scotch egg
is a fun throwback to old-school England; homemade lamb sausages with refreshing
tzatziki, chickpeas and mint offer a Greek
twist; and roasted baby beets with sharp
goats cheese and roasted hazelnuts
sprinkled with a touch of dill is another fab
combination.
Stand out dishes in the main course
spread include steak served on the bone
with Barnaise sauce; marinated prawns
with fennel, rocket and parmesan; and
indulgent Mushroom and Truffe gnocchi
with spinach and almonds. If theres room
afterwards there is an interesting line up
of desserts which will satisfy anyones
sweet tooth and the sommelier can help
you fnish the night with a delicious sticky
or one of their many whiskies.
This is the perfect place for a sexy date
night - the atmosphere is so cozy the
waiters bring you a torch to read the menu!
Or you can soak up the good bar scene
and music as the place flls up during the
course of the night.
Happy hour 7 - 9pm. DJs play late Wed -
Sat night.
BASA Bar & Restaurant, Basavilbaso 1328
(between Av. del Libertador and Juncal),
Centre. (11) 4893 9444. Mon Fri (lunch &
dinner), Sat (dinner only)
Photo by Amanda Barnes
El gin artesanal argentino
necesitaba una tonica
artesanal que le haga
compaia.
conocelos a los dos en la casa
de su creador tato giovannoni.
floreria atlantico - arroyo 872
2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean
The nickname of a city that doesnt sleep doesnt come
from Buenos Aires offce culture but rather its addictive
nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a
few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub.
Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for
nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout
the city your night can start relatively early. There is an
exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a
selection of different types of bars to get you started.
BAR & CAF GUIDE
ANTARES
If you are in search of real ale, then
Antares is one of the safest options with a
nationwide chain of micro breweries. With
a couple locations around the city, you can
stop in for a honey beer or cream stout in
San Telmo, Las Canitas or in their fagship in
Palermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegs
hang over the bar giving it a trendy New
York feel to it. As well as different pints, and
even a beer tasting option, Antares serve
hearty bar food all evening.
Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela
2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo.
Daily from 7pm till late.
CAF MARGOT
A real treasure, Caf Margot has a history
stretching back to 1904 and a step into this
bar/caf feels like a step back into history
with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of
olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed
here each morning and their homebrew is
served throughout the week, as is decent
bar food. The waiters will rave about their
turkey which is served in countless
sarnies here and actually claim to have
invented the turkey sandwich (just go along
with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and
step back into a different century.
Caf Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San
Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am
till late.
GRAN BAR DANZON
One of the stalwarts of the bar scene,
Danzon has been one of BAs happy hour
favourites since forever and everyone stays
throughout the night for the good food,
cool music and beautiful people. A bustling
atmosphere and usually packed with people
it is above ground level in the Recoleta
neighbourhood.
Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161 (between
Santa Fe and Arenales), Recoleta, (11) 4811
1108, open daily from 7/8pm
PUERTA UNO
Once a secret bar, the secret is pretty much
out now about Puerta Uno but it still has
that underground vibe as you turn up to the
unmarked door and should remember the
owners names Robertino and Marcelo
just in case. Once in, the bar opens up to
a series of patios with evolving decoration
and a DJ keeping the atmosphere buzzing.
Cocktails are the order of the night and the
barmen do some convincing sake and fruit
potions.
Puerta Uno, Juramento 1667 (corner of
Arribeos), Belgrano (Barrio Chino). (11)
4706 1522. Tues Sat after 9pm.
FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE
If you are serious about your coffee and
need a real bean fx, Full City Coffee House
is one of the better coffee joints in town.
Whether you like it strong and black,
with just a lgrima (literally just a drop) of
coffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you want
a Cappuccino like youd get back home,
the well trained barristas know what they
are doing. Packed with coffee fends and
freelancers, there is good wif here and a
stack of magazines and newspapers as well
as a decent Colombian-style breakfast to
while away an hour or two. They also run
private coffee classes.
Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535,
Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues Sun.
FLORERIA ATLANTICO
Entering through an afterhours forist-cum-
wine shop-cum-record store has to be one
of the more unique entrances for a bar, and
thats the only way to get into this new
bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by
a top mixologist and a super sommelier,
the drinks here are to die for of course,
as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to
the immigrant tribes of Argentina, youll
fnd cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol,
Spanish sherry, French cognac and English
Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those
who really know their booze.
Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between
Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313
6093. Mon Sat, 10am 3am
GIBRALTAR
With a name like Gibraltar, youd assume
this is aimed at expats and youd be right, but
this English-style pub is remarkably popular
with locals too. The bar menu is comfort-
food pub grub including fsh and chips,
bangers and mash, and homemade curries.
Best of all, they serve food all day from 12
till 2am meaning you can soak up the extra
pints at any hour while the cider, beer and
wine keep fowing till 4am each night. If you
want cocktails, look somewhere else, but if
you want a proper pub in San Telmo the
Gibraltar is it.
Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of Estados
Unidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily,
midday till late.
SR DUNCAN
A converted mansion with a penchant for
swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is
a handsome live music venue where youll
get tango, jazz, swing and anything else
that has continued to sound good over the
last few decades. Even the prices hark back
to a time before.
La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832
(between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo,
(11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues Sat. Check
out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings.
LA CIGALE
One of the best music bars in the city
centre, La Cigale has a bit of je ne sais quoi.
Apart from the trendy French theme, they
hit it right on the head with their live music
which ranges from electro nights to vintage
spinning, as well as a space upstairs for
bands. If you get there early, indulge in the
daily happy hour from 6 till 10pm.
La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (corner
Tucuman), Centre (11) 4893 2332, Mon Fri
from 6pm, Sat from 9.30pm.
LIVERPOOL
Although the thought of Beatles
paraphernalia might make you cringe, this
Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some
pretty decent live bands. With a proper
stage equipped for musicians, most nights
you get a band play and afterwards it turns
into a nightclub.
Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between
Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11)
5355 7632. Mon Sat nights.
VERNE COCKTAIL CLUB
As the name suggests, this is a bar
dedicated to creative cocktails. Opened last
year, this Palermo bar is already drawing in
good crowds who come for the neat twists
on old classics. If you really have a hangover
wish for the morning, try their absinth
tasting menu.
Verne Cocktail Club, Medrano 1475 (corner
of Costa Rica), Palermo (11) 4822 0980.
Daily from 9pm till late.
CAF TORTONI
One of the great classic cafes of Buenos
Aires, Caf Tortoni has been the meeting
point for many great minds during its 160
year history including the likes of Jorge Luis
Borges, Federico Garcia Lorca and even
Albert Einstein. With every square inch of
wall covered in photos and memorabilia,
walking into Caf Tortoni is like a step back
in history. As well as serving the classic
coffee, orange juice and croissants by
waiters dressed in a shirt and tie, there is a
tango hall at the back where you can catch
daily shows.
Gran Caf Tortoni, Av. de Mayo 829,
Monserrat. (11) 4342 4328. Daily from
8.30am till late.
ALSINA
It is ftting that BAs best club is practically
in a palace. With a capacity of up to 1500,
Alsina is its own principality of party. The
main foor is flled with a throbbing mass
of clubbers will the upstairs balconies offer
a little bit of respite and a good people
spotting platform looking over the crowd.
Alsina attracts international names and
hosts a party every night of the week.

Alsina, Adolfo Alsina 940 (between Bernando
de Irigoyen and Tacuari), Montserrat (11)
4331 3231. Daily from midnight.
ASIA DE CUBA
This nightclub still remains one of the
places to be seen in and a bustling boliche
in Puerto Madero. After over a decade on
the nightclub scene it is no longer the hot
ticket it used to be, but Asia de Cuba still
appeals to a large after offce crowd and
a healthy mix of tourists who love the
waterfront location, decent drinks and the
opportunity to dress to the nines. There is
also a sushi restaurant if you want to graze
on something before hitting the dancefoor.
During the weekdays it is also open as a
lunchtime restaurant, with a Happy Hour
4pm till 8pm.
Asia de Cuba, Pierina Dealessi 750 (corner
of Macacha Guemes), Puerto Madero. (11)
4894 1328. Nightclub open Wed Sat from
9pm.
SKY BAR
The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky
Bar is on the 13th foor of Hotel Pulitzer in
the city centre making it ideal for reaching
some cooler Summer air and enjoying a
view over the night city lights. A popular
after offce spot and also ideal for downing
a couple cocktails at sunset, although the
DJ plays well into the night too.
Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner
of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily
after 5pm.
BAR EL FEDERAL CELEBRATES 150 YEARS
If you walk around San Telmo, you cant miss this landmark bar, which has sat proud on
the corner of Peru and Carlos Calvo since 1864. Bar El Federal began its story as a small
pulperia (a typical local store) selling groceries and household items, herbal remedies and
hearty penginos (penguin-shaped jugs) of wine. The popular corner spot soon attracted
ladies of the night, and boobs and booze became far more lucrative and it turned into a
brothel-bar. That tale turned sour when the beautiful daughter of the owner was murdered
by a jealous suitor one night, and so El Federal returned to being a more savory caf.
Since then it became a poets hangout and has been immortalized in many a tango song.
Nowadays Bar El Federal is a popular spot with locals and tourists for its many fne brews
(they make their own craft beer!), authentic Argentine cuisine and its special vermouth
cocktails served with tapas.
To celebrate its 150-year anniversary there are also a number of special events happening
this winter and spring. Till December you can see photographer Sergio Gasalis exhibition
Mirada Ferderal which is a black and white series of photographs all taken from different
tables within the bar. Throughout August and September there are also numerous and
broadcasts from within the bar (you can fnd out more info at www.barelfederal.com.ar),
and the celebrations culminate on 9 November with a free outdoor music concert with
different bands including the Tom Waitsed Band from 3pm till 7pm.
Theres more reason than ever to discover some of Buenos Aires beautiful and historical bars!
Bar El Federal, Carlos Calvo 599 (corner of Peru), San Telmo (11) 4300 4313. Daily 8am
till very late.
Photos by Sergio Gasali PicS
45
ADVERTISE
HERE!
admin@playgroundba.com
PLAYGROUND T IPS
If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants
and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground
that is Buenos Aires -
Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses
arent cash friendly, youll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or
get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at
www.sube.gob.ar), which you can charge at most metro stations. Youll fnd a helpful bus route
planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus youll quickly fnd yourself
critiquing and praising the bus drivers personalized dcor and memorabilia at the front of the
bus.
The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day.
Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE
card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days.
Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate
the personality of porteos and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you
otherwise might not. Do however take care and dont walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk
in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion,
Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing
fashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public.
There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your
airport right to avoid missing a fight! Also take care with connections as many carriers will
make you change airports for ongoing fights so give yourself time to go from one to another.
Aeroparque (mainly domestic fights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo.
Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from
the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic
way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www.
minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Per,Av.
Bel grano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there.
If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting
www.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels!
The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with
illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simple-
minded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get
targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves.
Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you fnd yourself
in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or
Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often
better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.
47
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Parque
Manuel
Belgrano
Jardn
Japons
Paseo del
Rosedal
Museo de
Artes Plsticas
Eduardo Sivori
Monumento
de lo Espaoles
Hipdromo Argentino
Planetario
Galileo
Galilei
Paseo
Alcorta
PALERMO
CHICO
PALERMO
SOHO
PALERMO
HOLLYWOOD
LAS
CAITAS
Veldromo
Municipal
Campo Argentino
de Polo
Jardn Botnico
Carlos Thays
Jardn
Zoolgico
Predio
La Rural
Museo Nacional
Bellas Artes
Cementerio
de la
Recoleta
Hospital
Rivadavia
Hospital
Alemn
Plaza
Serrano
Plaza
Palermo
Viejo
Centro
Cultural
Knex
Plaza
Congreso
Patio
Bullrich
Obelisco Teatro
Coln
Palacio del
Congreso
Av. Infanta Isabel
Museo
Xul Solar
Museo casa
Carlos Gardel
Malba
Museo de
motivos
Argentinos
Hospital
de nios
Hospital
Fernndez
Museo
Evita
Puente de
la Mujer
Fragata
Sarmiento
Luna
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LINEA D
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PUERTO MADERO PAG. 38
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WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES
Si quieres copias gratis de Playground Buenos Aires,
por favor contactar | editor@playgroundba.com
For an up to date list with new locations check out our website
www.playgroundba.com
BARRIO NORTE
Anima Pea 2665
BOEDO
Caf Margot (Los Notables) Boedo 857
CENTRO
Alvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036
Amerian Buenos Aires Park Hotel
Reconquista 699
Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015
Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701
Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608
Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514
Design CE Hotel de Diseo
Marcelo T de Alvear 1695
Design Suites Buenos Aires
M. T de Alvear 1683
Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079
Down Town Matias Reconquista 701
Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872
Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161
Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861
Hotel Boutique Bonito Buenos Aires
Chile 1507
Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275
La Fresque Hotel Boutique
Avda de Mayo 984
Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277
Mayflower Suites Paran 720
Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219
Play Juncal 1472
Plaza San Martn Suites Suipacha 1092
Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int.
Libertad 1216
Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675
Rooneys Hotel Boutique
Sarmiento 1775
Serena Hotel Libertad 1617
SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188
Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780
MONSERRAT
Aldos Moreno 372
Bebop Club Moreno 364
Caf Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825
Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647
Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785
PALERMO/CAITAS
248 Finisterra Bez 248
PALERMO
1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B
Malabia 1555
5411 Soho Hotel Spa Thames 1565
Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317
Atempo Design Hotel Arvalo 1564
Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370
Ayres de Espaol Gurruchaga 1851
Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205
Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115
Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946
Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726
Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735
Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882
RETIRO
Basa Basavilbaso 1328
Farinelli Arroyo 900
Feirs Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366
Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855
Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841
SAN CRISTOBAL
Bar de Cao (Los Notables)
Av. Independencia 2400
SAN TELMO
America del Sur Buenos Aires Hostel
Chacabuco 718
Antares Bolvar 491
Arribo Buenos Aires Per 291
Bar Defensa Defensa y Cochabamba
BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649
Bohemia Buenos Aires Hotel B.Per 845
Buenos Aires Vintage
Caf La Poesa (Los Notables) Chile 502
Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303
El Federal (Los Notables)
Carlos Calvo 595
Hostel Inn Buenos Aires
Humberto Primo 820
Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747
Hotel Babel Balcarce 946
Hotel Bolvar Bolvar 886
Hotel Patios de San Telmo
Chacabuco 748
Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478
Kenton Palace Buenos Aires
Defensa 383
La Casita de San Telmo
Cochabamba 286
La Poesa Chile 502
Lumio Caf Carlos Calvo 498
MACBA Museo Arte Contemp.
Avda. San Juan 328
MAMBA Museo Arte Moderno
Avda San Juan 350
Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922
Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948
Moreno Hotel Moreno 376
Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680
Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752
Piedras Suites Piedras 908
Posada de la Luna B&B Per 565
Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Coln 1145
Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319
San Telmo Flats Piedras 990
San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437
Telmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086
TelmoTango Hostel Suites
Chacabuco 679
Tiana Buenos AiresHumberto Primo 629
Urban Station San Telmo
Avda. San Juan y Chacabuco
Yauss! Estados Unidos 509
Zorzal Mane Petit Hotel
Humberto Primo 775
VitrumHotel Gorriti 5641
Voulez Bar Cervio 3802
Watt Market El Salvador 4622
PUERTO MADERO
Asia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750
Ayres de Patagonia
Alicia Moreau de justo 1798
Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y Gorritti
Blakke Juana Manso 1580
Cabaa Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516
Cuccina DOnore
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768
Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768
DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611
El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel)
Martha Salotti 445
El nico Bar Juana Manso 1601
Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840
Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445
Freddo Juana Manso 1570
ICentral Market
P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes
Itamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553
La Cabaa Alicia M. De Justo 380
La Parolacia Casa Tua
Alicia M. de Justo 276
La Parolacia del Mare
Alicia M. de Justo 1170
Lupita Mexican Bar
Olga Cossettini 1091
Museo del Jamn
Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Osaka (Faena Arts Center)
Juana Manso 1164
Patio JaponsJuana Manso y E. Escurra
Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100
Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838
Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714
Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra
Sushi Club Petrona Eyle 471
Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286
Tres Quarts by Rodizio
Pierina Dealessi 1130
Winery Juana Manso y M. Guemes
RECOLETA
Alvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891
Art Suites Azcunaga 1465
Art Suites & Gallery Pea 2268
Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283
Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756
Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823
Galera Rubbers Internacional
Avda Alvear 1595
Howard Jonhnson HB Pea 2049
Ih International House
Pacheco de Melo 2555
LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel
Vicente Lopez 1955
Mio Buenos Aires Hotel
Avda. Quintana 465
Poetry Building Junin 1280
Ulises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016
Unique Art Ellegance
Avda. Pueyrredn 1940
Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389
Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581
Bolivia Nicaragua 4908
Cabrera Garden Boutique Gest House
Cabrera 5855
Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670
Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862
Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598
Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802
Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459
Grand Caf Basavilbaso 1340
Guido Blvd. Cervio 3943
Home Buenos Aires Hotel
Honduras 5860
Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752
Hotel Boutique Purobaires
Niceto Vega 4788
IlumHotel El Salvador 5726
Jardn Escondido Gorriti 4746
Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665
LHotel Palermo Thames 1562
Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641
Legado Mtico Buenos Aires
Gurruchaga 1848
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi
J. Luis Borges 1772
MPalermo El Salvador 5783
Malambo Thames 2098
Maria Flix Guatemala 5200
Marks Deli El Salvador 4701
Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770
Miravida Soho Wine Bar
Darragueyra 2050
Moving Bike
Muu Lecheria Armenia 1810
Noa Noa Lofts (tbn Hotel Babel)
Bonpland 1549
Nuss Buenos Aires Soho
El Salvador 4916
Olaya Humboldt 1550
Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y Cervio
Own Palermo Hollywood
Jose Cabrera 5556
Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132
Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648
Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865
Palermo Suites Apart & Suites
Fray Justo S. Maria 2529
Palermo Tower Charcas 5955
Pepe Cantero (Main Store)
Honduras 4845
Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721
Pollock Hotel Boutique (lyns)
Costa Rica 4754
Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374
QArte Galleria Humbolt 1981
Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484
Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676
The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733
Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655
Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773
Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929
Urban Station Palermo Soho
El Salvador 4588
Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499
Vain Boutique Hotel Thames 2226