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UtJII UH IVJ I

May, 1981
$1.50
Lowering sun warms the many slopes of the
Kelso Dunes East Mojave, California.
Photo by JERRY SIEVE

We're
We're looking for excellence and
significance. We're conducting a
search for the best writers,
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Address items to:
The Editorial Staff
Desert Magazine
P.O. Box 1318
Palm Desert, CA 92261
ISSN 0194-3405

VOLUME 44 NUMBER 4 May, 1981

A Cathedral in Hueco Tanks: Island


the Rockies or Rock Pile?
by John Wesley Sering by Joseph Leach
There before us, enhanced by Thirty minutes east of El
the rays of the setting sun, Paso, a reddish stone uplift
lay what seemed to be an floats serenely over the plain
enchanted city. like a great island in time.
page 8 page 38

The Mountain Lion The Life and Times


by Karen Sausman of Padre Kino
Regardless of what you call by Joseph F. Kelly
this cat, he's a fascinating True to his vow of poverty,
animal. His power and he was never known to keep
strength are legendary. a gift, sleep in a bed or own
page 14 more than two shirts.
page 42
Sanguinez: Baja's
Prison of Hope Reprieve for Brighty
by Mary Eileen Twyman by Alan J. Kania
The padre had assured Pablo The youngster, with tears in
he was forgiven. He was not his eyes, peered under the
meant to live mired and chain barrier and whimpered,
trapped in guilt. "Where's Brighty?"
page 18 page 50
Why Owens Lake is The Best of David
Red Muench
by Wayne P. Armstrong
The coloration of Owens by Don MacDonald
Lake is caused by This famous photographer
astronomical numbers of calls himself "a maverick
microscopic algae and who studied under the
bacteria. tutorship of nature." His
page 22 work, indeed, is unique.
page 54
The Cactus City
Clarion: George Van Tassel
Mary Eileen Twyman, and His Anti-Gravity
Ed. Time Machine
News and nostalgia as seen by Rosemary Evans
by the nosiest newspaper in No one doubted his claim to
the west. Where to go and have hosted visitors from
what you'll find when you outer space at his home
get there. inside Giant Rock.
page 29 page 60
page 50

Departments Our Cover:


5 Editorial 45 The Living Desert Clouds, chased by high pressure clearing, roll across
6 Letters 47 Chuck Wagon California's Mt. San Jacinto, witnessed by cholla
27 The Second Time Cookin' and barrel cactus in the foreground. Photo by David
Around 53 Desert Product of Muench, 10 a.m. February, 1970. E6 Ektachrome,
34 Desert Rockhound the Month 1/ 10th sec. at F32, using 360mm Rodenstock lens.
35 Desert Calendar 62 The Trading Post

DESERT
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MICHAEL JOHNSON
Executive Publisher
JULIE BRAZEAU

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Reduce Monthly Utility Bills Heating and Desert Magazine ISSN 0194-3405, is published monthly by
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Copyright 1981 by Desert Magazine. All rights reserved. No
For more information write or call:
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written permission from the publisher. Subscription Rates for
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$20. Elsewhere: Add $4 per year surface, $20 per year air mail (U.S.
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MAY, 1981
There is GOLD in
them 'thctr hills!
and it is
being found

R ETIRED LT. Colonels, entry- by his anger, must think it's with the
level journalism majors, Yellowstone or Yosemite that's being
help of . . .
housewives who sign them- threatened—his, Joe's, heritage,
selves "Ms.," persons who order wherever he lives. Joe need not fear.
Tecate because they are afraid to pro-
nounce Tres XXX (Trayz-Ehkee); in
The feds already allow grazing,
mineral exploration and, in some in-
ALLIED
short, anyone who dreams someday of
being the editor of a magazine, any
stances, homesteading on the lands
targeted by the Rebellion. What's at
SERVICES
magazine, had best be thick-skinned. issue is the income from these leases Over 6,000 square feet of
For to be an editor, one must write and rights. And Joe need not be angry. the most complete stock
editorials, and for every editorial on The Sagebrushers want BLM land of supplies for the professional
whatever subject, there are 100 to back, not national parks or monuments or beginner — plus, expert
1,000 of you out there who will or even, really, any land that clearly guidance in the use and
disagree with whatever the editor says. merits a wilderness designation. selection of your equipment.
And a percentage of you will fire back Experience tells me that state govern-
what in essence is a counter-editorial of ments, being smaller, are more quickly • Gold Dredges • Wet Suits
your own. responsive; there are a few less layers
• Metal Detectors • Dry
You-have the advantage. You can of bureaucracy to bore through.
call me a misinformed, myopic twerp Recreationists, thus, need cut less red Washers • Sluices • Gold
and / won't cancel your subscription. tape to do their thing, accomplish their
If I, on the other hand, complimen't you various and sometimes conflicting
Pans • Tools • Topo Maps
with the suggestion that human beings goals, whether their interest be • Laboratory Apparatus
deserve prior rights to land—ahead, backpacking or dirt biking. All of us, I
say, of the Coachella Valley fringe-toed believe, will be a step closer to our land • Mineral Lights • Gold
lizard—there will be among you some if the Sagebrushers prevail. Scales • Lapidary
who believe the lizard is their equal. More immediately, in preparation for
And those that do inevitably cancel coexistence, we might condition Equipment • Books
their subscriptions. Now should I side outselves to compromise. I like an ex- • Magazines • And Much.
with equal opportunity for the lizard, ample in the Garner Valley near where
then land developers will cancel their I live. There are several large ranches Much More!
subscriptions. Luckily, the lizards there, grazing herds on both private,
themselves don't read. and leased government lands. All but Over 1,600 different
The editor can choose among broad one of the ranchers have talked the publications in stock. Back
and narrow issues for his editorial, or Forest Service into allowing them issues of magazines
use one issue to illustrate another. The locked gates, even though the roads including Desert!
lizard as an issue, for example, is nar- thus closed were originally built and
"If we don't have it in stock
row but when one weighs the rights of are now maintained by public monies
. . . chances are you don't
animals versus man's, the issue And all but one experience constant
need it."
becomes broad indeed, almost as problems with forced entry. The
beamy as the Sagebrush Rebellion. rancher that doesn't hangs an
There's one that causes our hospitably worded sign on his unlocked
subscriber count to fluctuate! The
Rebellion, which incidentally is a
gate. It says, "Please close this gate
behind you." The owner can't ALLIED
movement and not an organization,
dedicates itself to getting federal
government out of the land business.
The goal is to return these lands to the
remember when he last lost a cow.
It can work, and I see the role of
Desert Magazine as helping it to work.
Public lands are for everyone in trust.
SERVICES
Sales. Service and Rentals
states, where they would remain the Let everyone use them, each in his since 1969
property of the people. There's no sug- own way, the only rule being to do un-
gestion here that the lands be opened to others as you would have done unto Visit our showroom located 5
to commercial exploitation, is there? yourself. And I'd rather lobby for that miles east of Disneyland, Wi
And since no state can deny free access ancient admonition at the state than blocks south of Katella Avenue
to visitors from another state, why does the federal level. Maybe, even, we can (east of Orange Free'way, Rte 57)
Joe Jones in New York, where federal someday live within its meaning
lands hardly show on the map, cry without any supervision (or editorials) 966 North Main Street
foul?- whatever. Orange, California 92667
Joe, by his fear, implies that industry Phone (714) 637-8824
can more easily manipulate state Store Hours: Weekdays, 10-6;
governments than the federal, and thus
Saturdays, 10-3.
move in and despoil these lands. Joe,
DESERT
Unsolved Mystery 4. They are circular and have a "bell
More "Resting Eggs" top."
Allow me to introduce myself as the Choral Pepper's account of the myster- 5. You can't catch them.
brother of Everett Ruess, the artist, ious appearance of jellyfish in Lake 6. They "disappear as suddenly as
writer and poet who disappeared late Mead (Desert, March 1981) reminded they first appeared."
in 1934 while exploring the canyon me of an out-of-place marine creature I
country along the Colorado River east There are probably more patterns
came across back on the family farm in
of Escalante, Utah. Hugh Lacy serial- and parallels. If we would study these
southwestern Oklahoma during the late
ized Everett's tragic story five years creatures a little more thoroughly, from
1930s. Despite the usual drought each
later in Desert Magazine and, subse- a mechanical, asexual viewpoint, per-
summer, we could nearly always count
quently, it appeared in book form. I haps this country could then come up
on at least one toad-strangling, gully-
would still like to see the mystery of with its own UFOs!
washing rain in the early spring. Stand-
my brother's disappearance solved, just Adora Rickard
ing water would last in the fields two
as, I imagine, would friends and rela- Ojai, Calif.
or three weeks, long enough for numer-
tives of people like Judge Crater, Jim- ous forms of life to appear and multi-
my Hoffa and Amelia Earhart. ply, including toads, tadpoles, crayfish
From the record and from family and countless water bugs.
Let There Be People
papers I've seen, it seems most likely I'd avidly probe these murky I have enjoyed your magazine for 10
that Everett met with foul play on the mudholes to add to the living collec- years now and I was especially pleased
part of some cattle rustlers I heard tion I kept in boxes and glass jars with your February (1981) "Death
were encamped above the end of Davis around the house, but one year, along Valley" issue. That area has more soul
Gulch, the same place where they with the normal haul of crayfish and than any city, and I agree that the Na-
found his burros in a sort of natural sundry water creatures, I came up with tional Park Service has closed ofF the
corral, but the Utah authorities never a strange looking animal I had never greatest intrigue by not allowing a few
pursued the investigation. I've not seen before. With a light brown, leath- people to live there. Why not give a
even been told the names of the sus- ery, horseshoe-shaped carapace about few prospectors permits to wander
pected rustlers, though I'm sure some the size of a half-dollar, wriggling pin- with their burros around the valley?
people in Escalante and neighboring cer-like legs and a long, straight-point- After all, if they lived life as it was
towns had this information. My fami- ed tail, it looked rather menacing. As lived there in the past and didn't use
ly's hope was that on his deathbed at well as I can recall, it lasted about a modern machines, they would be a
least one of the rustlers would tell, but week or so in captivity before expiring. welcome addition to the natural set-
this does not seem to have happened. Many years later, in a book on ting.
Since our parents are dead, it would paleontology, I came across a picture of Phil Herbert
mean more to me than to anyone else it. The curious creature was Xiphosura Salt Lake City, Utah
in the world if you still have copies in (or Limulus) polyphemus, commonly
your files of all the nice letters people known as the king or horseshoe crab.
wrote about Everett and could send me Since its normal habitat is the Atlantic Explosion Recalled
duplicates of these. Nationally known seaboard and parts of the Pacific, how Your article on Jerome, Arizona
lecturer Edward Howard Griggs called did it, or its eggs, end up in a mud (Desert, March 1981) was quite inter-
my brother "Thoreau to the Nth puddle in the middle of a farm in Ok- esting to me, especially mention of 250
power," which I think was quite a lahoma, a thousand miles from the tons of dynamite exploding in 1925.1
compliment. This appeared in a con- nearest ocean? remember it occurred in November,
temporary edition of Who's Who in Tony B. Raines around 4:15 p.m. I was sawing wood
America. Oklahoma City, Okla. in our backyard at Cottonwood when I
Waldo Ruess heard the explosion and felt the shock,
Santa Barbara, Calif. and having a clear view of Jerome four
After reading Choral Pepper's fine arti- or five airline miles away, I saw a dust
All back issues of Desert Maga- cle, "Desert Jellyfish," I sat back in cloud rise. I did not see anything in
zine since Vol. 1, No. 1 (Novem- my chair and mused how like flying the paper concerning the explosion,
ber, 1937) are available, perhaps saucers these creatures seem to be. For and I didn't hear of any damage to
most conveniently, on microfilm at instance: homes or windows in Jerome. Much
larger libraries or in bound form 1. "When triggered they emit a poi- later, though, I was told that two (or
at our office. Letters not printed son powerful enough to stun." four) railroad box cars loaded with
were not kept. If any reader can 2. "Their progress . . . is achieved as dynamite had exploded on a siding,
shed further light on Everett's still a result of rythmic pulsations or . . . and that it was not reported as such to
unexplained disappearance, we contractions." avoid investigation of safety law viola-
will forward the information in 3. They "move up and down as fast tions. There were no unions around at
strict confidence to Waldo Ruess. as a Yo-yo." the time, these having been broken up
6 MAY, 1981
Luxury on a Baja Beach

econhotel
Av. Mision de Loreto No. 148 • Apdo. Postal No. 190 • San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico • Telefonoa: 7-1094 al 7-1098

during World War I.


K.E. Bloom
Oakland, Calif.

Offending Trash
My wife and I, ardent rockhounds who
believe in keeping the desert beautiful,
were utterly disgusted and sickened re-
cently while searching for agate and
jasper at the Early Man Site east of
Barstow, California. The Mineola
Road turnoff from 1-15 takes you Discover the Other Mexico When You Visit
Beautiful San Felipe, Baja California
through a disposal area before you get
to the site, which I know is a federal Whether you're after that telephones and bath. Restaurant, bar,
record-breaking corvina or simply swimming pool, tennis, gift shop.
government project. As to the dump, I getting away to a quiet, friendly place Discotheque, too. Bring the whole family.
don't know if it's city or county, but I with ocean breezes and luxury
do know that it's the filthiest testament accommodations, you'll love the For Information and Reservations
village of San Felipe and your stay at Call Your Travel Agent or
to mankind we have ever seen. Trash,
papers, unknown and unidentifiable Econhotel. Overlooks a superb beach
for sunning, swimming, surf fishing.
filth, all blow to the four winds over a
vast area of beautiful land, and no ef-
120 air conditioned rooms with iliieconhotdles
7488 La Jolla Blvd. • P.O. Box 3335, La Jolla, CA 92038 'Telephone (714) 459-0251
fort to control this is evident. It is a California Toll Free: (800) 542-6028 • Nationwide: (800) 854-2026 Telex: 695444
disgrace! The agency responsible for
this should be made to clean it up!
Fred Barnes
Santa Ana, Calif.

He Quits
After five years of searching for
Pegleg's gold, I quit. The price of gas-
oline and the first twinge of failing leg
muscles (I'm 84) force me to give up. AND LOCINGI
Between the BLM and the military, in Indian Wells, Calif.
most of the land has been confiscated. Phone:(714)345-2581
The parks are artificial. We are told
where to walk, ride, camp and play.
The straight jacket does not fit my
HOWIE'S HOQSE RULES of
shoulders, but I've enjoyed every hour
of the search.
HARMONY and HOSPITALITY
Don Springer Hence:
Yucaipa, Calif. 1. All Vegetables will be Fresh, all 3. Major Credit Cards will be honored
Fish Newly Captured, all Breads and, under Special Conditions, Cash
Freshly Baked and all Meats Properly will be accepted as payment for all Ac-
Prepared to your Taste. If not, RAISE counts.
Water Rights HELL!
Your editorial in February, 1981 Desert
about the water problem at Mono Lake 2. Service will be Prompt and Pleasant 4. Above All, no Man shall leave this
was excellent. You've written with in- as the Pleasing of our Patrons is Establishment with unsatisfied Hunger
sight and clarity on a complex subject Paramount. If not, see Above. or undiminished Thirst.
that was always difficult for me to ap-
proach when I was a Mono County OPEN FOR BREAKFAST * LUNCH * DINNER
resident. I've referred this issue to Fabulous Sunday Champagne Brunch, 10 to 2
magazines and newspapers in the coun- Entertainment in the Lounge Tues. through Sat, beginning 8:30 p.m.
ty- Situated in the luxurious Indian Wells Hotel
Buddy Noonan (Built by Lucille Ball and Desi Arnez in 1957)
Sierra Vista, Ariz.
DESERT
CATHEDRAL
IN THE
ROCKIES
Some say Colorado's Wheeler Geologic Area is the
land of the absurd. Others liken it to a vast cathedral.

). V

/
Wheeler is a land of contrast,
saivtoothed formations jostling
furrowed erosions in the soft rock
(insert). Here, adults lose all
inhibitions and become children
once again.
"There before us, enhanced by the rays of Ten feet of snow lay on the ground,
the setting sun, lay the vista of what driven by howling winds. The party
seemed to us an enchanted city. Spires became confused and disoriented, and
and domes, castles and cathedrals, soon it was every man for himself. Be-
mosques and temples, with their fluted fore the ordeal had ended, 10 men
columns and wonderfully carved friezes, were dead and more than 100 pack ani-
were arrayed in a confusing panorama of mals were lost.
form and color." Williams returned the following spr-
ing to collect some provisions Fremont

T
HUS WROTE Frank Spencer, had left behind, but he was never seen
forest supervisor for the Rio again, so it is presumed that Ute ar-
Grande National Forest, after rows brought an end to the colorful
his journey in the summer of 1908 and far-traveled mountain man's life.
when he first viewed the Wheeler Geo- Then, approximately 25 years later,
logic Area near the silver mining com- Lieutenant George Montague Wheeler
munity of Creede, Colorado. led a War Department survey party
No other landscape in the Colorado across southern Colorado. There is no
Rocky Mountains is more mystical or record or indication that either Wheel-
bizarre, nor draws a greater emotional er or any of his men ever observed the
response from the infrequent visitor. It formations.
is a desert-like landscape, resembling In 1906, Congress passed the Antiq-
Bryce Canyon, yet is located near tim- uities Act, which allowed the Presi-
berline one-half mile from the Conti- dent, by his authority, to designate his-
nental Divide. It is a land of immense toric landmarks, prehistoric structures
beauty and unique human history. and government administered lands
Wheeler Geologic Area is a badlands which contain historic or scientific
formation composed of tuff, deposited values as National Monuments.
from nearby volcanic activity. The de- Spencer's enthusiasm for the area led
bris varies from minute dust particles to a report and recommendation for its
to large, three-foot blocks. Being soft, establishment as a National Monu-
unconsolidated and uncompacted, ero- ment. The forest supervisor traveled in
sion by rainfall and wind has created person to Washington, D.C. and met
fantastic features of spires and pinna- with then chief forester of the U.S.
cles in the highly colorful pastel shades Forest Service, Gifford Pinchot. Early morning is the time
of tuff. Wheeler's name was attached to the to photograph Wheeler
The geologic history is far more ac- geologic area by default. Originally, (left); the rising sun adds
tive than the area's human history. Fremont's name was proposed; how- its own illusions. Map
There is no recorded "first" discovery ever, it was decided that enough prom- (below) shows the four
of the geologic formations prior to inent natural objects had already been access routes to the area.
Frank Spencer's trip in 1908. Previous-
ly, rumors had been spread by sheep-
herders, miners, trappers and hunters \
of an eerie landscape known as the \
"Sand Stones." Long before the white La Garita Wilderness i
man's arrival, it is probable that the
Ute Indians knew of its existence from
• • -
j
summer hunting trips into the high
mountain country. CREEDE i"WHEELER
Explorer John Charles Fremont, the GEOLOGIC
"Pathfinder," and his party were in /»/ / ,'•' AElEA i

the vicinity of the area in the winter of xX^rTabfe^


1848-1849. Guided by the famed V
62-year-old Taos, New Mexico moun- WAGON T , . A
tain man, "Old Bill" Williams, the WHEEL U49)
GAP Vw^Vx
Fremont party attempted to cross the ^ b
Spar City
Rockies via the headwaters of the Rio > . DEL NORTE
BAXTERVILLE I
Grande. Williams argued with Fre-
mont to turn south and travel through J SOUTH
FORK
easier country and warmer weather,
but his suggestion was ignored. In nm
WOLF ^ ^
mid-December, Fremont's party was CREEK ~
caught high in the mountains with PASS
temperatures 20 degrees below zero. fi€A/f4«,

DESERT 11
named in honor of the Pathfinder.
In 1908, within three months of the

WHO NEEDS A report, President Theodore Roosevelt


designated the area as the Wheeler Na-
tional Monument, to preserve volcanic
formations which "are of unusual

CURE CANCER?
Certainly not the chemotherapists, radiologists, surgeons, hospitals nor
scientific interest as illustrating erratic
erosion."
It seems no one knew under which
government agency the monument
could best be managed. In 1933, the
the American Cancer Society. It would kill their golden goose and cost Wheeler area was transferred from the
them billions of dollars. Forest Service to the National Park
• Is there a preventive or cure available? Service along with other national
Of course, and it is presently used in Gerrhany.. monuments in the national forest sys-
• Have American scientists found a preventive? tem. Then, after 17 short years of ad-
Yes, when they injected female mice with a cancer causing substance ministration, Wheeler National Monu-
(carcinogen) all the mice got breast cancer. Adding this preventive and
injecting female mice with the same carcinogen NOT A SINGLE MOUSE
GOT CANCER.
• Is quitting smoking the answer? No one
In the 1979 Surgeon General's report you find this quote... "smokers have
fewer restrictive activity days and fewer chronic conditions than former knew under which
smokers.
• Hasn't the government stated that smoking is dangerous? government agency the
Yes, but other government studies have shown that STOPPING smoking
. .. may actually increase your chances of cancer, heart disease, kidney monument could best be
stones, high blood pressure and dozens of other illnesses.
• Can some people be getting this element without knowing it? managed.
Yes, if they are lucky enough to live in the right place. That's why in Japan
breast cancer is only 15% of what it is in America; why Rapid City, So.
Dakota has half the lung cancer rate of Lima, Ohio.
• Are there places where cancer and heart disease are rare? ment was transferred back to the
Yes, and these people live to well over a hundred years old. Forest Service because of poor access
• Have researchers tried this element on incubating cancer cells? and the isolated nature of the area in
Yes, and it completely stopped cancer cell development. relation to other park service areas.
• Does this element have any side effects? Originally 300 acres in size, the For-
The side effects are only positive. This element is needed by the heart to est Service expanded the protected area
strengthen the heart muscle. Fertility is also influenced by this element. to 640 acres and withdrew it from min-
It stimulates the motility of sperm. eral entry and purchase. Then, in
• Wasn't there a recent story from China on this element? 1969, the Forest Service prohibited
Yes, doctors there report a dramatic decline in certain forms of congestive motorized vehicles within the area and
heart disease. requested that the formations be reclas-
• Is this preventive available now? sified as the Wheeler Geologic Area.
Yes, it can be obtained legally without a prescription. The political future of the area con-
• Why call a book like this "The Joy of Smoking"? tinues to be as unpredictable and vola-
Because the author was given six months to live — 14 YEARS AGO. tile as was the volcanic action which
And he has been smoking two packs a day for the last 12 years. created the geologic oddities. In De-
cember, 1980, Congress passed the
"Perhaps the real sleeper in this book is a method to reduce one's smoking Colorado Wilderness Bill, which states
from 40 cigarettes a day to 4 . . . without pills, will power or expensive clinics." that the Wheeler Geologic Area and
Herald American Book Review contiguous lands will be studied and
recommended by 1983 for possible Na-
tional Park, National Monument or
D-l National Recreation Area designation.
To order your copy send $8.95 (Calif, residents add .54 sales tax) to
In addition, during the last decade, nu-
ROBANN PUBLICATIONS — 905 N. Euclid Ave., Anaheim, Calif. 92801
merous proposals have recommended
FULL AND UNCONDITIONAL GUARANTEE return in 10 days if not satisfied
that the area be included within the
LJ Please charge to my credit card: LJ VISA LJ Master Charge
existing La Garita Wilderness Area,
CARD # EXP. DATE whose present boundary lies along the
NAME_ Continental Divide overlooking the
Wheeler formations near Half Moon
ADDRESS.
Pass.
CITY STATE. ZIP_ To visit the Wheeler Geologic Area,
there are four primary routes which of-
12 MAY, 1981
fer a wide variety of experiences. In the
early 1900s, a 14-mile foot and horse
trail was constructed from Creede to
the area. At the terminus of this, one
will find a cabin shelter unit built for
campers by the Forest Service nearly
75 years ago.
The most used access route begins
near Wagon Wheel Gap. From State
This is
Highway 149, turn off on Pool Table
Road (maintained gravel) to the site of
Holiday Country
Hansen Mill, once a logging mill. Just For over a quarter of a century
beyond the mill site is a road fork. The Holiday Realty has been serving
left fork is a seven-mile foot and horse the Real Estate needs of desert
trail and the right fork is a 14-mile jeep lovers. Whether you are interested
road, both to the Geologic Area^ The
in Residential, Commercial,
best way to describe the roughness of
Agriculture or Industrial.
Make your desert connection
with the firm whose professional
No other expertise is the result of 25 years'
experience right here in
landscape in the the great American Desert.
Colorado Rocky Mountains
is more mystical
Holiday
Realty Corporation
or bizarre. 73-700 El Paseo, Palm Desert (714)346-6168
Dick Coffin, President

the jeep road is that it takes almost as


long to drive as it takes the hiker on
the seven-mile trail along East Bellows
Creek.
One other trail, a highly scenic one,
is the West Bellows Creek Trail. The
trail begins near Highway 149 at the
Phipps Ranch. Regardless of your
route, it is advisable to contact the
ranger station in Creede for trail condi-
The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd
P.O. Box 700
tions, regulations, information and
maps before your trip.
Caldwell, Idaho 83605
A visit to the Wheeler Geologic Area
is like a visit to the land of the absurd.
Adults become children as they .
scamper over eroded volcanic forma-
W'e take pride in the production
tions or give names to rock shapes in of fine books for the readers of
this enchanted landscape, names such
as "Dante's Lost Souls," "The Phan- Western American history —
tom Ship," "The Chicken Roosts" or
"The Ghosts." with particular emphasis on the
Arthur Carhardt, a landscape archi-
tect for the Forest Service, wrote of the
history of the Pacific Northwest
area in 1924: "A description of the and the Rocky Mountain region
shapes assumed by the up-thrust rock
might cover many pages. Every step in
any part of the monument seems to
bring several new ones into view. An
imaginative person can see in these
eroded objects the shapes of almost any Write for a Free Catalog
animate creature — and not a few of
fanciful beasts such as live only in
dreams or in gnomeland." 0
DESERT 13
The
Mountain
Lion
The elusive king of cats still
roams America's wilderness.

by Karen Sausman
Photographs by David Sumner

O NE OF THE first animals I


cared for after joining the staff of
the Lincoln Park Zoo in Chica-
go, Illinois, was a young, exquisitely
beautiful mountain lion kitten named
with all wild animals, the cute antics of
the young kitten soon turn into the
agile and powerful roughhousing of a
100-pound cat. If suddenly frightened,
even in play, they can inflict severe
tion of their livestock. So, slowly but
surely, wherever man has crossed paths
with the mountain lion, the mountain
lion has been exterminated. It has been
totally eliminated from the east and
Lucky. At several months old, she wounds. Each year zoos throughout the midwestern portions of our country,
weighed 25 pounds and could leap, country are inundated with phone calls leaving a small population of mountain
spring and climb with tremendous from people trying to give them lions still to be found in southern
agility. She thought nothing of climb- "tame" mountain lions, many of whom Florida and in the west.
ing right up our legs and onto our have been defanged and declawed by With such a broad range, it is not
shoulders, a little disconcerting when their owners in a misguided effort to surprising that the mountain lion
her sharp claws poked through our domesticate them. Such cats are even earned a wide variety of common
clothes, even though she was harder to place in zoological parks, and names, among them cougar, puma,
reasonably gentle and never purposely many wind up being destroyed. panther and catamount. Only in the
attempted to hurt us. I would often The mountain lion (Felis concolor) is west is the name mountain lion ap-
spend time after working hours "talk- the largest wild cat in the United propriate, for here they are primarily
ing" with her. Well, almost! One of States, and the second largest in the creatures of the mountain ranges. In
the little known facts about mountain New World. Only the jaguar of Cen- Florida, these animals are often called
lions is that they whistle and chirp like tral and South America is larger. At panthers.
a bird when they are excited. one time jaguars were also found in Regardless of what you call moun-
Lucky was fortunate to have a per- southern Texas and Arizona; there are tain lions, they are fascinating animals.
manent home in a zoo. Each year, still occasional reports of these animals Their power and strength are legend-
many people foolishly purchase young crossing the Rio Grande. ary. Mountain lions are medium sized
mountain lion kittens for pets. They do Not too long ago, mountain lions cats; total body length including the
not, however, make very good pets. As roamed across all of North and South tail is somewhere in the vicinity of
America. Like all of our large seven to eight feet. There is a great
predators, they eventually came into variety in the physical size and color of
The fine-textured fur of an adult conflict with settlers and the livestock the cats. Adult females have been
lion (above) contrasts with the industry. People were fearful of the found weighing as little as 75 pounds,
fluffy coat of a six-month-old cub large cats, of their size and power, and whereas males can weigh from 80 to
(opposite page). unwilling to put up with the depreda- 200 pounds. From the scanty statistics

14 MAY, 1981
This three-month-old cub could
not have been very far from its
mother when this photograph was
taken.

. *
animals. The greatest number of these
are concentrated in the coastal ranges
from Mendocino to Del Norte coun-
ties, the southern Sierra Nevada range,
in Fresno and Tulare counties and in
the coastal ranges from Monterey to
Ventura counties. Mountain lions were
also found in most of the forest and
brushland areas of the state where
there were deer populations. The
Department of Fish and Game feels
that at this time no areas of the state
appear to have drastically declining
mountain lion populations. Low-
density, reproducing populations exist
in various portions of Riverside and
available, it would seem that mountain they are subject to being hunted under San Bernardino counties. Other
lions in California are smaller than permit during special seasons with a western states report about the same
those in most of the other western bag limit. In Texas, however, the thing, and there is generally a feeling
states. Color ranges from tawny beige mountain lion is still considered that mountain lions are not currently
to gray, with a brown tip on the tail vermin. threatened with extinction.
and on the back of the ears. Within the In California, the mountain lion Thus, despite years of persecution by
same mountain range you can find became a protected game animal in man, mountain lions do continue to
lions of a variety of colors. 1963. In 1971, Assembly Bill 660 roam in the wilder portions of the west
Without question, the favorite prey changed its status to a protected non- and deep in southern Florida. They
of the mountain lion is deer. Anywhere game animal and established a four- essentially are loners, hunting by
there is a good, stable population of year moratorium on the taking of themselves, males and females coming
deer, there will most likely be moun- mountain lions. The legislature has together only during breeding periods.
tain lions. They are said to kill an since extended the moratorium to A female often hunts with her cubs,
average of one deer a week, January 1, 1983. For the period of the who many number from one to six and
supplementing this diet with small moratorium, the California Depart- may be born in any month of the year.
animals. Porcupines seem to be a ment of Fish and Game was directed to The den may be under a rock crevice
delicacy. They manage to overpower ascertain the number of mountain lions or beneath a fallen tree. The gestation
these prickly prey, turning them up- in the state and to determine the best period is 88 to 97 days. The cubs are
side down to consume everything but means of managing species. born blind and helpless. Their eyes do
the pelt and quills. Mountain lions oc- The first phase of the mountain lion not open for two weeks. Their spotted
casionally hunt during the daylight study was a statewide survey begun in color patterns act as a camouflage, but
hours, but are primarily nocturnal. June, 1971 and concluded two years by the time they are yearlings the spots
Deer are often stalked and pounced later. The second phase involved have disappeared. The young lions
upon from trees or ledges. Most of the research on specific lion populations in may accompany their mother for a year
time, the impact alone will kill. After two areas of the state. The first area or 18 months before striking out to
eating its fill, the cat covers the re- was 175 square miles of the coast range establish their own territories.
mains and often returns a few days in Monterey County and the second The sight of a mountain lion is an
later to eat again. Since it prefers fresh area was in the southern Sierra Nevada electrifying experience. Although peo-
meat, whatever is left after the second range, a 130-square-mile area of Tulare ple are afraid they will encounter one
feeding is fair game for scavengers such and Kern counties. Information on lion when hiking, cats are usually secretive
as coyotes, foxes, ravens and vultures. movement, population dynamics and and not particularly interested in hunt-
Besides their natural prey, mountain social structure was gathered. The ing man. However, they have been
lions may take livestock that happens lions were treed with dogs and re- known to follow people out of curiosi-
to be within their territory. They can strained temporarily with drugs. ty. Most of us could spend a lifetime
overpower horses, calves and sheep. Measurements were recorded and the hiking in the wilderness and never
The killing of livestock led many cats were equipped with radio come across these stealthy predators.
western states to put bounties on the transmitting collars before they were But just knowing that these fascinating
lions at the turn of the century, but released so that their movements could cats still share our wild areas, continu-
since the early 1960s, most states have be followed with receivers. ing to roam over hundreds of square
substituted depredation permits for The Department of Fish and Game miles searching for prey, and raising
bounties and now treat the mountain estimates the mountain lion population their young, makes any wilderness trip
lions as game animals, which means in California to be approximately 2,400 a more complete experience. 0
16 MAY, 1981
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The gates (opposite page) were
never locked during the day,
which was why they called
Sanguinez "the Prison of Hope."
The structure (left) is still in
excellent condition.

ing a corner of his shirt in the back


pocket, leaving the rest to hang flag-
ging behind him as his long strides
turned him up hill. He felt pretty darn
good.
He looked up toward his destination,
the imposing building situated on the
hill's highest point—Sanguinez Prison.
His growing sense of well-being made
it hard for even him to believe he was
a prisoner. In fact, today, that jolt of
amazement made him smile as he
thought about the pesos nestled deep
in his pocket and his cache of many
more buried in his cell.

SANGUINEZ His thoughts turned to that wary-


eyed little boy that was himself, born
and raised in a grim Baja California
village. It seemed his family was

Baja 's Prison of Hope always scraping and scratching to sur-


vive, never sure, once one sparse meal
was finished, where the next one
would come from. That boy, that fami-

T
by Mary Eileen Twytnan HE CONCH'S wail wafted over ly seemed so far away, yet Pablo knew
Mulege and slowly settled into that boy and that family were the very
the evening's shadows, which basis of his firm determination to be
were beginning to stretch leisurely the best he could be, for himself and
across the dusty roadways. mostly for them.
Pablo Murillo, playing seal in the He had become an excellent thief,
Rio Mulege, trying to swim with as lit- and the relief his efforts brought to his
tle limb movement and ripple as possi- unquestioning family were reward
ble, laughed at his efforts and broke in- enough to spur him on—until the night
to firm strokes, reaching the bank in when, cornered and threatened with
seconds. The eerie sound was just capture, he killed a man. With a harsh
fading as he walked up the bank, toss- effort of will, he headed off this
ing his blue-black hair out of his eyes downward thrust of his thoughts. The
with a quick movement that arched a padre had assured him he was
crystal spray against the scattered rays forgiven, that the rest of his life was
of sunlight still piercing through dense not meant to be spent mired and
growth to touch the earth. trapped in guilt.
Already dry from the blasting desert Pablo reached the entrance of the
heat, he pulled on his trousers. He stockade, but before he walked in he
started walking while carelessly stuff- let his eyes roam over Mulege, and his

DESERT 19
thoughts soared with his gaze. Grow- Murillo the townspeople sought out to the prison in open cells, eating meals
ing up with nothing but burning sand work in the date and banana groves prepared by the wife of one of them.
under his feet and as far as he could that flourished in Mulege. The pesos Their days were spent working,
see in all directions, this encompassing buried in the floor of his cell attested wherever needed, in Mulege. They
view of Mulege's thick green vegeta- to the many years of hard work behind were even paid for their labor.
tion and freely flowing water never him. The townspeople had no fear at all of
failed to refresh his spirit, even more He would soon be free. In an effort the prisoners. On a typical workday,
so than his daily swim in the Rio to will his days even more swiftly to the only way to tell the prisoners from
Mulege refreshed his body. that end, he leaned even more the free was that at 6:00 p.m., a guard
When he was a young boy, Pablo ferociously into the body-wrenching would climb up to one of the
would sit at the window, his mother's toil that brought nights of deep, stockade's corner watchtowers and
homemade curtains fluttering around satisfied sleep. blow a conch shell, and various men
him in the warm breeze, and look past It wouldn't be long before his plan could be seen breaking away and filing
the lean cow and scrawny chickens, his would be reality. When he was free, he up the hill toward the prison.
brothers and sisters playing in the dirt These men were so trusted and ac-
yard, and try to imagine what lay cepted by the local people that at the
beyond the jagged mountains rising completion of their terms, many of
from the distant desert floor. When he them stayed in Mulege, marrying and
first came to Sanguinez, knotted in raising families. Even today the iden-
despair and homesickness, he had tities of these ex-prisoners and their
taken a piece of charcoal from the edge descendants are intensely yet politely
of the fire and drawn a crude window protected from outsiders, "for the sake
on the wall of his cell. He had even of their families."
drawn the curtains to look like they In 1965, its residents reduced to only
were being lifted by a gentle breeze. At three, Sanguinez Prison was closed.
night when he lay on his bunk, his Pigeons thrive there now, nesting in
mind's eye projecting the scene of his the 53 cells. Jose Luis, an ex-
home on his sketched window, the policeman, lives there too, in what was
flickering firelight indeed made the once the kitchen. He has made
charcoaled curtains appear to flutter. Sanguinez his home "because he likes
One of Pablo's boyhood friends had it" (no rent). He also serves as a
come to Mulege. He had talked with "guard" for the occasional drank,
him this very afternoon. Juan had gringo as well as Mexican, that may be
brought him news of his family, news in need of a place to sleep it off.
that had lifted and eased the tremen- The 53 back-to-back cells form a
dous weight of worry that always square around an open courtyard
seemed jammed somewhere between within the stockade. In the center of
his shoulders, bound there by invisible
Most of the graffiti in the cells is of this courtyard is a container which was
chains, relentless in their savage, con-
modern, gringo origin. used for water. A roaring fire was also
stricting grip around his back and lit here every night to fight off the
across his chest. would return home. Then, he would chill. On the left wall, looking out into
Mama and Papa were well and lov- bring Mama and Papa to Mulege. He the courtyard, is someone's sketch of
ingly cared for by his brothers and would buy a farm. Maybe his brothers Our Lady of Guadalupe.
sisters. It was hard for him to perceive and sisters would come too. Mulege Exploration of the cells reveals a lot
all of his brothers and sisters but the had plenty of work. of graffiti which has accumulated over
youngest being married, even more the last fifteen years, but closer inspec-
astonishing to hear that he was an un- HEN C 0 L 0 N E L tion reveals old faded drawings, names
cle, several times. They were all still
W 7 August of family members and dates—seg-
\ y L / S a n g u i n e z was governor of Baja
poor, very poor. T T California, he built this unique ments and traces, glimpses into a
The plan, his plan, that always lay prison on a hill overlooking Mulege in multi-faceted diary ripped from the
dormant somewhere at the base of his 1906, naming it after himself. pages of many lives.
being, nourishing his dogged deter- Mulege, being an oasis, is a virtual All of the prisoners at Sanguinez
mination, leapt forward in his thoughts garden. Because its productivity far Prison were men. A very few of them
with startling clarity. His plan had outstripped the ability of its residents were hardened criminals, and another
been conceived the day he had talked to keep up with it, it didn't take long small minority of them were mentally
with the padre, and had realized he no for the people of Mulege to tap the ill. There seems to have been only one
longer had to labor under his guilt. On wealth of manpower housed in the known escape attempt. A man scaled
that day, he had realized that cells behind the brick and plaster, and leaped from the wall of the
Sanguinez Prison was not a house of guard-towered stockade. It was out of stockade, and was shot and killed by
punishment for him, but a new Mulege's need that a unique honor one of the guards.
beginning. system evolved for the inmates of Why escape? The rehabilitation pro-
He had jobs, working wherever the Sanguinez. gram unwittingly proposed by the peo-
townspeople needed him. And, because There were a few incorrigibles who ple of Mulege was a way of life better
of his bold way of wading into and were not included in this program, but than any the prisoners had known. It
furiously diminishing whatever work during the 59 years of its operation, offered hope, and a future, as the priest
was set before him, it was Pablo most of the prisoners merely slept at had promised, free of guilt. @
20 MAY, 1981
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INC.
1531 Pomona Road, Corona, CA 91720
Why Owens Lake is Red
One of nature's most remarkable biological phenomena is the pink and red
coloration of salt lakes and playas. Here is the explanation, known
heretofore only to a handful of scientists.

I F YOU HAVE ever driven Remnants of ancient beaches are still ent, such as sulfates, chlorides, carbon-
north on U.S. Highway 395 preserved at several places around the ates, magnesium, calcium and sodium;
along the eastern side of the lake. however, the most abundant salt in the
Sierra Nevada in late summer, you Owens Lake, in fact, had been gradu- brine where halophilic algae and bac-
may have noticed the vast, pinkish-red, ally drying up for thousands of years, teria thrive is ordinary table salt, or
crusted surface of Owens Lake glowing and was already saline when the Owens sodium chloride. The percent of salin-
in the desert sun. Near the abandoned River was diverted to supply Los An- ity may vary in a salt lake or playa, de-
Columbia-Southern soda plant at Bart- geles with water. Brine fly pupae pending upon where the water is test-
lett, along the northwestern end of the (Ephydra), common insects of saline ed, such as close to freshwater springs
lake, solar evaporation ponds may be ponds and lakes, were an important or a river inlet. For example, in the
colored a brilliant red. Pink salt lakes food in the diet of local Paiute Indians. northern arm of the Great Salt Lake,
and playas, and the bright red evapora- The pupae, which look like grains of the total dissolved salt content is more
tion ponds of salt recovery plants along rice, occur in enormous numbers and than 30 percent, whereas in the south-
their shores, are among nature's most can still be found around the shoreline ern arm (where the rivers enter) the
remarkable biological phenomena, oc- where there is standing water. They salt concentration ranges from 12 to 20
curring in arid regions throughout the can also be found by the thousands, percent.
world. Similar and related biological embedded in the salty crust. Unlike most living things, the
phenomena are responsible for the col- The coloration of Owens Lake is halophilic bacteria thrive in saline lakes
oration of hot springs, other bodies of caused by astronomical numbers of mi- with salt concentrations of 15 to 30
water, and snow in the high mountain croscopic organisms, which can be con- percent. This is roughly four to nine
ranges. veniently classified into two major times the salinity of sea water (3.5 per-
Owens Lake is actually a playa, an groups, algae and bacteria. Algae and cent). Their optimum growth condi-
intermittent dry lake that may contain bacteria include thousands of different tion is 20-30 percent salinity. They can
standing water during wet years, but species, but only a few kinds are able even live in saturated salt and remain
even when the lake appears dry, a layer to tolerate the extreme salinity of alive in salt crystals for years. In fact,
. of brine occurs beneath the salty crust. playas such as Owens Lake. The group they cannot survive if the salt concen-
It is fed by the Owens River and all of organisms primarily responsible for tration drops much below 12 percent.
the tributaries that drain the snow-cov- the red coloration of the salt crust and Very few life forms on earth are known
ered Sierra Nevada. Before the river brine pools are the halophilic (salt- to be adapted to this extreme salinity.
was diverted into the Los Angeles loving) bacteria. The brine ponds of Owens Lake are so
Aqueduct in 1913, Owens was a large, The amount of salt in a lake or sea is alkaline and hot in mid-August that
blue, salt lake 30 feet deep and cover- often expressed as a percent, and refers they can actually burn and dehydrate
ing 100 square miles. Several thousand to the total grams of dissolved salts in your fingers. In many places, the brine
years ago, the lake was more than 200 100 milliliters of water. The total per- is saturated with sodium chloride (over
feet deep and nearly twice as large. cent of salinity includes all salts pres- 30 percent salinity) and salt is precipi-

Article and photographs by WAYNE P. ARMSTRONG

22 MAY, 1981
The stark Inyo Range glowers over the
vivid red brine and salt crust of California's
Owens Lake.

A hole chopped through the salt crust


reveals the red brine beneath.

DESERT 23
tating out. So, when you consider the cated. The cells themselves contain a
extreme environment of the brine, it is very high internal salt concentration,
rather easy to narrow the field of possi- about equal to their environment.
ble organisms responsible for the startl- Otherwise, they would be rapidly de-
ing coloration. hydrated (plasmolyzed) in the brine. It
If samples of the red brine are spun has also been shown that the highly
in a high speed centrifuge at 5,000 saline environment is essential for nor-
rpm, the water becomes clear as the mal enzyme function within the cells,
red bacterial cells are forced to the bot- and to maintain the fragile protein
tom under about 3,000 Gs. The coating or "wall" around the delicate
bacteria may then be grown in a cell membrane. In fact, if the salt con-
special nutrient agar containing at least centration drops too low, the outer pro-
20-MULE TEAM DAYS IN DEATH VALLEY by
Harold O. Weight. Specialists and critics praise 25 percent sodium chloride, incubated tein "wall" actually dissolves and the
this account of the great borax wagons of the in a warm oven. After several weeks, inner cell membrane disintegrates, thus
1880s, the drivers and mules, the trail to Mojave.
Story of Borax Smith, Wm. T. Coleman, Death small reddish colonies of bacteria begin destroying the cell.
Valley pioneers, Harmony Borax Works. First- to appear in the culture dishes. The salty crust and brine of Owens
hand stories. Includes reprint of Henry G. Hawks'
report on Death Valley 1883. Pb., 48 pgs., 33
There are two main kinds of extreme Lake is sometimes greenish, due to the
historic and modern photos, map. 5th ed. $1.00. salt-loving bacteria, the rod-shaped
halobacteria and the spherical halo-
CHILI LOVERS' COOKBOOK compiled by Al
and Mildred Fischer. Two cookbooks in one. The cocci. They are extremely small uni-
first portion describes the best of chili cookery, cellular organisms, visible only under It has been
from mild to fiery, with recipes for some of the high magnification. To get a rough
best. The second part gives a variety of taste-
idea of how small these bacterial cells
tempting foods made from chili peppers with many
suggestions on use and preparation. Spiral bound. really are, it would take more than half
suggested that the
Pb., 128 pgs. $3.00.
a million to cover the surface of an or-
dinary pinhead. A single drop of brine
bright red pigments protect
SCOTTY'S CASTLE by Dorothy Shally and
William Bolton. The sumptuousness of the castle, from Owens Lake may contain millions
its history, construction, and design of the
buildings are told by the authors, both National of the minute, rod-shaped Halo- the delicate cells from the
Park Service employees who have been associated bacterium, squirming about with seem-
with the maintenance and interpretation of the
property since the government acquired title in
ingly perpetual motion. They are able intense desert sunlight.
1970. Pb., large format, profusely illus., $2.00. to swim about by means of minute,
hairlike flagella at their ends. The
ANZA-BORREGO DESERT GUIDE BOOK, bacterial cells contain a red carotenoid
Southern California's Last Frontier by Horace
Parker, revised by George and jean Leetch. A clas- pigment which, depending upon their abundance of another organism called
sic reference to America's largest desert park, concentration, may color the water Dunaliella. This is a unicellular green
originally published in 1957 and now updated,
enlarged and improved by the "dean of desert pink, orange, vermilion, or mauve-red. alga, much larger than the bacteria,
rangers" and his wife. With excellent logs, maps, The red pigment is similar to that though visible only under high magni-
and photographs brought up to 1979 standards. found in tomatoes, red peppers, and fication. Each individual oval or pear-
Pb., 154 pgs., two maps, many photos, $6.95.
many colorful flowers and autumn shaped cell has two whip-like tails or
HIGH MOUNTAINS AND DEEP VALLEYS by leaves. It has been suggested that the flagella at its anterior (head) end. The
Lew and Ginny Clark, with photographs by Edwin bright red pigments protect the moving flagella propel Dunaliella
C. Rockwell. A history and general guide book to
the vast lands east of the High Sierra, south of the delicate cells from the intense desert through the water in a spiral motion.
Comstock Lode, north of the Mojave Desert, and sunlight. They are found in salt lakes Under high magnification, numerous
west of Death Valley, by oldtimers who know the
area. Pb., 192 pgs., 250 photographs, and many
and brine ponds throughout the world, Dunaliella can be seen swimming
maps. $6.95 including the Great Salt Lake and the among the gleaming, geometrically-
Dead Sea. shaped crystals of salts. Dunaliella is
The halophilic bacteria may be a clearly a green alga because of a
Desert Book Shop nuisance to industry using evaporation distinct, green, cup-shaped chloroplast
that occupies most of the cell. In near-
Name ponds for the production of solar salt.
Address Freshly produced solar salt is often by Searles Dry Lake to the southeast,
City _State_ .Zip. heavily contaminated with these Dunaliella and a closely related species,
I enclose $ organisms, and they occasionally cause Stephanoptera, may be so abundant
Check, money order or charge spoilage of fish, sausage casings, meat, that they color the salt crust a bright
MY CHARGE LI M.C. D VISA vegetables and hides when salt (sodium green. Here they thrive in water with
Credit Card No chloride) has been used in the preserva- 33 percent dissolved salts, and where
Expiration Date
tion process. They may also cause an the salt forms a solid surface crust
Month/Year strong enough to bear the weight of an
Signature
unsightly, pinkish discoloring of
pickled foods. The discoloration is automobile. In solar evaporation ponds
known as "pinkeye" in salted fish and of the large Kerr-McGee Chemical
"red-heat" in salted hides. Plant at Trona, Dunaliella sometimes
forms a thick, green, "pea soup." A

T
California residents add 6% sales tax HE EXACT chemical explana- single drop of this thick water may
Postage/handling $1-50 tion for the extreme salt toler- contain several thousand individuals of
Total Dunaliella.
ance of these bacteria, and their
Mail today to:
Desert Book Shop P.O. Box 296, Goleta, CA93117
need for salinity at least three to four Under unfavorable conditions, Duna-
times that of sea water, is very compli- liella produces a red carotenoid pig-
24 MAY, 1981
merit similar to that found inside the
halophilic bacteria. The red pigment
may completely mask the green of its
chloroplast, and salt lakes practically
anywhere in the world may be colored
reddish by Dunaliella. For decades,
scientists in Russia were puzzled by
the pinkish coloration of salt lakes in
the hot, lower Volga region, north of
the Caspian Sea. The pinkish water
was finally attributed to the presence of
Dunaliella salina, either dying naturally
or excreted in the fecal mass of brine
shrimp (Artemia), which feed exclu-
sively on it. Dunaliella in the very
saline northern arm of the Great Salt
Lake in Utah are brilliant red. There
the water is colored red by both the
Dunaliella and the red halophilic bac-
teria. Some authorities recognize a red
and a green species of Dunaliella; how-
ever, all the Dunaliella I have observed
in Searles Lake and Owens Lake were
bright green. It appears that the
brilliant red coloration of brine in these
lakes is caused primarily by bacteria.
The distribution of Dunaliella
throughout the world in very special- "First name in Metal Detectors Since 1931"
ized, highly saline habitats is convinc-
ing evidence that its dormant cells are Whether you are a weekend coinshooter or a professional
dispersed by the wind in the form of treasure hunter, Fisher has a model designed for your needs.
dust clouds. Much to the chagrin of Fisher detectors have proven themselves time and time again
Owens Valley residents, alkali dust as the most sensitive deep seeking detectors you can buy
clouds are a common sight over Owens Fourteen models to choose from including our two box
Lake. This is also happening to Mono Gemini II. Priced from $149.95 to $419.95, See your local
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streams are diverted to provide Los

FISH6RZD
Angeles with more water.
In addition to red saline lakes, micro-
organisms are responsible for the color-
ation of other bodies of water, tree
trunks and even rocks. Enormous
Fisher Research Laboratory
populations of algae are responsible for
1005 I Street, Los Banos, CA 93635
the coloration of the Red Sea and for a
periodic condition of coastal waters
known as the "red tide." Another alga,
closely related to Dunaliella, thrives
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banks. The individual cells are bright
red, and from a distance the snow ac-
tually appears pink. Compacting the
snow increases the density of the red
cells and heightens the color.
Algal cells also color the trunks of
trees velvety green, and the trunks of
READ ABOUT
TODAY'S GOLDRUSH Jeep
Monterey cypress on the Monterey Articles and news items about
"our only business"
Peninsula in California a brilliant prospecting, mines and mining, both
large and small operations. Pictures,
orange. The colorful crusted growth on
rocks and boulders throughout the west hints, tips, advertisements for ma- SALES — LEASING
is caused by an intimate association of
chinery, mines and claims. Published
monthly. $5.00 per year. Send for
PARTS — SERVICE
algae and fungi known as lichen. sample copy. We Service What We Sell
Several different kinds of algae and
fungi are responsible for the many col-
JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER
ors of lichen, including biack, red, Western PROSPECTOR 8 MINER
orange, green, yellow and chartreuse. Dept. D 7590 Cypress Ave. at Van Buren
Box 146, Tombstone, AZ 85638 Riverside, Calif. 92503 (714) 785-1330
For years, people have wondered about
DESERT 25
Brine from solar evaporation
ponds (below) looks like tomato
juice. The pupae of brine flies
(right) were once an important
food in the diet of local Paiute
Indians.

WSm^w'^m
mdFMn 1 ^ - &fr ••

the peculiar green coats of polar bears several minutes for our eyes to adjust Lake can be quite spectacular in the
in zoos, particularly during the warmer as the pigment rhodopsin gradually in- early morning or late afternoon of sum-
months. It has been shown that green creases in concentration. In fact, dur- mer, but not nearly so beautiful as the
algal cells actually live and multiply in- ing World War II night-flying aviators enormous blue Owens Lake that once
side the hollow core of each hair, thus sometimes wore special goggles just filled the deep, sunken valley between
producing the "green polar bear syn- before the start of a mission. The gog- the massive Sierra Nevada and Inyo
drome." There are numerous other ex- gles enabled the pilots to see and carry ranges. Like Mono Lake today,
amples of colorful algae and bacteria in on normal activities while stimulating Owens Lake was once a haven for
our environment. rhodopsin production in the eye for many forms of life, from insects and
Except for coloring salt lakes red, the maximum night vision. The pigment brine shrimp to water fowl. As the
salt-loving bacteria probably seem in- in salt-loving bacteria (called bacterior- water evaporated and the salinity in-
significant to most people; however, hodopsin) enables them to utilize creased, only the most salt tolerant mi-
they have been studied extensively in sunlight for energy, just as green pho- cro-organisms could survive in the
recent years by biologists and biochem- tosynthetic plants are able to capture brine. This appears to be the fate of
ists. A pigment has been discovered in the sun's energy. Future studies of Mono Lake unless the natural drain-
the cell membrane of Halobacterium these amazing solar-powered bacteria ings of nearby streams is restored to its
that is remarkably similar to the light may lead to new and more efficient shores. In the case of Owens Lake, the
sensitive pigment (rhodopsin) in the uses of the sun as a source of energy, Los Angeles Aqueduct has destroyed a
rod cells of human eyes which enables and perhaps a better understanding of beautiful blue lake, but has created an
us to see in dim light. When we the remarkable mechanisms of vision. enormous pink playa of thriving, salt-
enter a dimly lighted room, it takes The gleaming red salt flats of Owens loving bacteria and algae. 0
26 MAY, 1981
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DESERT 27
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THE NOSIEST NEWSPAPER IN THE WEST
VOL. 2 NO. 4 • MARY EILEEN TWYMAN, EDITOR • MAY, 1981

SNOWBIRDS FIGHT REGIMENTATION


by Richard Louv Christian Center in a mobile all our lives, and we just don't to a voluntary registration
home out on The Slabs—also want it anymore." system operated by a somewhat
Imperial County, Calif.— known as "Slab City"—where Over the years, the snowbirds humbled Campers' Christian
Each fall, as the Chocolate campers are spread out over sev- have agreed, without any formal Center. No signs designate its
Mountains shimmer violet in eral square miles. The Hoeffling- vote, that rules were fine as long existence.
the diminishing heat, an unlike- ers attempted to set up a formal as they were not written down, Since The Slabs are in such a
ly population of migrants arrives registration system for the in- as long as they remained volun- desolate location, the seniors
in the surrounding desert, haul- coming snowbirds. tary and subtle. have established their own radio
ing trailers, driving vans and But when they erected a sign As they arrive each fall, the station, of sorts, on a CB band.
pickup campers with "Senior outside the center that said snowbirds can, if they wish, At 7:00 p.m. each evening a
Power" bumper stickers. "Registry Slab," it disappeared enter their names and the names snowbird called "Good Sam"
The "snowbirds," as they are quickly. Explained one resident: of their next-of-kin, to be con- clicks on his CB base station
called, winter—without electrici- "We've lived with regimentation tacted in case of emergencies, in- Continued on page 36
ty or sanitation facilities—on a
desolate stretch of federal land
called "The Slabs," where Gen.
George S. Patton trained his
troops during World War II. Or
M-X MAY DRAIN NEVADA DRY SAYS EXPERT
they camp on Quechan Indian Pioche, Nev.—Jay Lehr, the in the arid Nevada desert where ture, mining and light industry
reservation lands along the Col- executive director of the Na- the U.S. Air Force hopes to ro- uses because it will beflowingto
orado River. tional Water Well Association tate the 200 M-X missiles among a missile system which will need
Sometimes they pull off the for the past 13 years, blasted the 4,600 concrete shelters. at least 4,600 wells.
highway and drive dusty sedans M-X missile system. As a former If Nevada gives 20,000 acre Ground water systems under-
out into the desert, and pitch University of Arizona professor, feet of water a year to the Air lying Nevada are. connected to
tents. If they can afford it, they Lehr conducted extensive stud- Force for the M-X system, little the deep water systems. The
live in commercial trailer camps ies on the groundwater supplies water could be left for agricul- water table will drop when the
near the Salton Sea. Air Force begins pumping water
Many of them have sold their for its missile shelters.
homes and live year-round in The Air Force has maintained
their recreational vehicles, it will follow state water laws in
following the seasons. acquiring the water it needs for
Nationally, not much is the missile project. However,
known about low-income Undersecretary Antonia
snowbirds. Because of their Chayes said recently that the
transiency and their rugged in- Air Force will seek preferential
dependence from government treatment in acquiring water
services, their numbers and rights.
economic background are dif- The Air Force has already
ficult to determine. filed 95 applications for water
Economy draws seniors into rights in 22 Nevada valleys—39
the migrant stream, but some- of these applications within Lin-
thing quite different keeps them coln County. State water engin-
coming back: a sense of commu- eer Bill Newman said he has
nity that they often don't find in returned ninety of these water
their own hometowns. applications to the Air Force
In 1978, Ralph and Dorothy "for corrections."
Hoefflinger set up the non-
denominational Campers' Calico lives again on page 32. —The Lincoln County RECORD

(Hactus Cttg Clarion


RENTED JUDGES
TO SPEED TRIALS
Los Angeles, Calif.—For the
DUNES HIDE LONG-LOST WHISKEY
by Phillip I. Earl morning, he found himself in which had apparently shifted
going rate of $500 a day, Califor- Tonopah, Nev.—Some 23 the middle of a dead calm and over during another storm while
nians who want quick, discreet miles south of Beatty in walked out in search of his team, he was at Oasis Valley. Not hav-
trials can "rent" retired judges to southern Nye county lies one of but the horses were nowhere to ing a shovel with him, he decid-
decide their cases wherever and the few real sand dunes to be be found. Disgusted, he took ed against trying to uncover his
whenever they want. The deci- found in Nevada. what water he had left and cargo and gave the whole thing
sion is as binding as any regular Somewhere beneath that hiked to Oasis Valley, where he up as a bad job.
court judgment. dune lies an abandoned wagon was able to secure a new team. Although the dune has been
The unusual process is legally laden with several casks of the When he returned to the sand searched periodically over the
known as "general order of finest California whiskey which dune, the wagon was gone. years, likely as not the well-aged
reference" and exists only in was being freighted south to the Thinking that it had perhaps whiskey is still buried where the
California, according to the mining camps of northern Ari- been hitched up and pulled storm covered it almost a cen-
American Bar Association. zona sometime in the 1880s. away by a group of thirsty tury ago.
It's been on the books since The freighter and his team travelers, he searched for wagon For those who are interested,
1872 but wasn't used this way had been overtaken by a storm tracks and other signs leading the dune is about three miles
until 1976 when two Los out near the dune. Turning his away from the site, but to no west of State Highway 95. It is
Angeles lawyers, Hillel Chodos horses loose to fend for avail. He then thought back, got necessary to walk the last mile
and Seth Hufstedler, were on themselves until the storm his bearings and looked for the in, since the terrain is too sandy
opposite sides of a complex abated, he bedded down be- wagon where he had remem- for most vehicles.
dispute between the operator of bered leaving it, but the site was
neath the wagon. covered by a part of the dune
a medical billing company and When he awoke the next —Nevada Historical Society
two other attorneys.
Using imagination and in- AAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
novation, Chodos and Hufsted- RECORD BIGHORN
ler interpreted the long dormant
civil code subsection to allow for
what is now called the "rent-a-
COUNT IN NEVADA
Tonopah, Nev.—Desert big-
JUDGE CUT FEDS TO SIZE
judge" system. horn sheep surveys have been 21,000,000 Acres in Wyoming
The subsection—which ap- completed according to a Reopened to Exploration
plies only to civil c a s e s - Nevada Department of Wildlife
provides for a trial outside the report with 1,748 animals Cheyenne, Wyo.—A federal counter to the intent of Con-
system by a referee, usually a observed on 12 major mountain judge in Wyoming has over- gress, the judge said.
retired judge, who is selected by ranges in the southern part of thrown a U.S. Interior Depart- The judge also said his review
both parties in the case. the state. ment opinion closing nearly of the Federal Land Policy and
—Desert News Service Department biologists classi- 21,000,000 acres of western Management Act clearly indi-
fied the record number of sheep roadless area to oil and gas cates it tries to balance wilder-
during 80 hours of flying time in exploration. ness values with mineral and
a helicopter and averaged 21.8 other concerns.
COWS VERSUS sightings per hour, compared to
U.S. District Judge Ewing
Kerr said Interior Department "Conflicts between policies
TORTOISES 16.6 last year. Helicopters have
been used by NDOW to survey
and Bureau of Land Manage-
ment restrictions on leasing and
such as development of minerals
and environmental protection
Monticello, Utah—The Utah and classify bighorn sheep since exploration of wilderness study are bound to occur," he said.
Farm Bureau and a group of 1969, and have been proven to areas are much stricter than the "One policy should not suffer
ranchers will take legal action be the most effective method for Wilderness Act itself. for the benefit of another. Com-
against a U.S. Fish and Wildlife obtaining information on popu- To allow the Interior Depart- promises must be worked out."
Service plan to eliminate live- lation conditions and trends. ment restrictions would be -Western PROSPECTOR &
stock grazing from more than —Eureka SENTINEL "ludicrous" and would be MINER
22,000 acres in Washington
county for the purpose of
establishing a desert tortoise
preserve on Beaver Dam slope
near St. George.
The service claims that desert TRUCKERS CONVERTED ACCESS NOT
tortoises are vanishing from the
area and should be protected Sierra Vista, Ariz.—He is a pastor for 12 years, but when he AUTOMATIC
under the Endangered Species trucker who hauls a special decided to follow the call to Washington, D.C.—Private
Act. Ranchers in the area point cargo from city to city, truck serve truckers, it took him about land owners within a national
out that a Bureau of Land Man- stop to truck stop. Sam Rust is a four years to get enough finan- forest do not have a statutory
agement study disputes declin- traveling minister who takes his cial support to start traveling. right of access, according to the
ing population of the tortoises. church with him. He pulls it Rust spends about half of the U.S. Attorney General in an
Many people have also testified with an "old log hauler" that he year at home and half on the opinion requested by the U.S.
that there is no conflict between has transformed into a road road. Although he enjoys his Department of Agriculture.
livestock grazing and the safe ex- tractor. church stops, the main effort of USDA can deny access under
istence of tortoises because they Rust has been involved in his ministry takes place at truck the Wilderness Act, but a land
eat different types of vegetation, traveling ministry for two years, stops where he estimates that he exchange as indemnity must be
and tortoises are in hibernation and chose truckers because he reaches 120 "unchurched" offered, according to the
deep underground during the was raised among them on the truckers a week with his special opinion.
season when grazing takes place. coast of Virginia. He was called services.
—The San Juan RECORD to the ministry and served as a -Bisbee DAILY REVIEW —Desert News Service
30
Cactus Cttg
GHOST TOWN TOUR OF OREGON
Salem, Ore.—The one-time
boom town of Jacksonville,
through in 1883, Jacksonville
was bypassed and local farmers
touched. Today, the refurbished
structures bring to life the daily
Oregon's early days in the high
mesa country by ranchers and
Oregon has so many restored began trading in nearby cities. life of Jacksonville's early miners, sheepmen, still have many
buildings that it has been The former mining center quick- gamblers, lawmen and farmers. unique buildings standing.
designated a National Historic ly became a sleepy village. While Jacksonville, with its The remains of the early min-
Landmark. Jacksonville slumbered until population of 2,120, claims to be ing settlements of Granite,
When two pack train drivers, 1950, when the pioneer court- Oregon's liveliest ghost town, Bourne, Sumpter, Susanville,
traveling between Oregon's house was transformed into a the only thing left to identify the Austin and Whitney are located
Willamette Valley and Califor- county museum, now one of the once prosperous Rye Valley, 34 close together, 28 miles east of
nia, discovered gold in a local state's most popular historical miles south of Baker, is a grown- the town of John Day. Because
creek in 1851, Jacksonville ex- attractions. The courthouse over cemetery. of heavy mining activity, some
ploded overnight into a lusty, conversion triggered a major Cornucopia, an old mining of the water is reputed to con-
fast-paced frontier mining town. town-wide renovation that left town in the Wallowa Moun- tain arsenic, and as portions of
When the railroad came hardly a pioneer building un- tains and Flora, established in this area are extremely rugged
and are subject to sudden rain
and snow squalls, the road con-
ditions are classified as "at your
own risk."
Southwest of Madras, the old
town of Grandview still has a
few buildings left, and northeast
of Madras the two towns of Sha-
niko and Antelope can be
reached by asphalt roads. Shani-
ko is the site of the last range war
in Oregon between sheepmen
and cattlemen, and Antelope's
town tavern, complete with
swinging doors, spittoons and
brass rails, is still in operation.
The nearly deserted town of
Hardman lies a little further east
of Madras and a few miles south
of Heppner.
The wooden roads and desert-
ed camp houses of the old log-
ging town of Wendling, 25 miles
northwest of Springfield, still re-
main. And, gold mining still
continues in the remote town of
Bohemia City, 35 miles east of
Cottage Grove. A few people
still reside in Kerby, an old min-
ing town in Southern Oregon,
all that remain of the 500 who
once lived there.
—Desert News Service

THE ROSE HAS


BEEN AROUNDA
LONG, LONG TIME
Crooked River, Ore. —A
fossilized rose was found here
recently, establishing that the
aristocrat of the flower garden
grew on our continent
35,000,000 years ago. Other
paleobotanists claim roses date
back to the Cretaceous Age
some 70,000,000 years ago, thus
predating Cupid by several
eons.
The old courthouse in Jacksonville, Oregon, is now a museum. —Desert News Service

Cactus Cttg Clarion 31


SILVER COMES
BACK TO CALICO
by Wayne Winters said to have been an elderly ec-
Calico, Calif.—One of the centric, tapped a rich vein of the
great old mining camps of the precious white metal. He didn't
west traveled the whole route, stay around long, wandering
from prospect to a booming from his prospect to a date with
camp and then on to a gradual death near Old Woman Springs
decline as silver prices dropped. at the hands of the Indians.
Death came with the closing in Five years later a couple of
1941 of the Total Wreck Mine. millmen, Waterman and Porter,
Yet today, a century after, its relocated the Lee claims. From
founding, more feet tramp the then on prospectors, miners,
rocky streets of the old camp promoters and speculators
every 24 hours than did back in swarmed to the narrow little
the 1880s when a dozen mines mesa on the side of the multi-
were producing the precious colored mountain, locating
yellow and white metals in seem- claims as fast as they could tote
ingly endless amounts. posts in from Mojave River,
Chances are that all the silver seven miles away.
"mined" from the pockets of The townsite was laid out in
tourists in 1980, when they 1882, and lots were sold
came to browse through the at- throughout the following year.
tractions of this reconstructed Things looked bleak for the in-
mining camp near Barstow in fant camp when it was all but
southeastern Caifornia, was in deserted in the summer of 1882
excess of that produced from ac- because of the illness of a large
tual mining activities in any portion of the populace, but the
similar 365 days in its long coming of cooler weather in late How authentic it may be is a
history. September brought a new influx matter of opinion, but the schoolhouse at Calico
Calico had its beginnings way of people and once again the is a masterpiece of skilled carpentry.
back in 1875 when "Dad" Lee, camp was on the boom.

The camp came of age later


that year when The Calico
PRINT first hit the street, and
items from its columns began
showing up in other publica-
tions across the country.
Fire, the bane of almost every
mining camp from Tombstone
to Butte, hit late in 1883 but
Calico was equal to the
challenge and Phoenix-like,
arose from the ashes in short
order. The PRINT reported that
Calico's colors are not the kind
that easily fade, and the camp
proved the wisdom of the
editor's words, boasting a
population of 2,500 by 1884.
Within another year the camp
was a prosperous, busy place.
While it was a wide-open town
with more saloons than homes,
the mine owners were not too
touchy about the activities of
their employees, generally in-
sisting only on the hardrockers
showing up sober and on time to
begin their shifts. Operations
continued around the clock,
with Sunday being "just another
Wood, rock and adobe were the materials employed by Walter workday." Pay was $3.50 per
Knott when he rebuilt the old silver camp of Calico. shift and there was no scarcity of

32
Cactus Cttg Clarion
The mile-long narrow gauge railroad, which one can ride for a
modest fare, was not a part of old Calico. Huge ore wagons
carried the ore to the 15-stamp mill, seven miles distant.

CM .ICO LIVES AGAIN


f AUSPICES 01 BOV'S.81R«Y "

No ghost town would be complete without its replica of an


1880-vintage headframe, complete with skip and shaft. Real
ones, however, weren't usually located on the main street.

Although the camp was restored by Walter Knott of Berry Farm


fame, it is now managed by San Bernardino County. The
original town was founded in 1875 and died in 1941.

experienced help to carry on the World War II. It has never been
drill, blast, muck and tram renewed, but with current $18
routine. Richness of the ores is silver and $530 gold, prospectors
testified to in the fact that in one are again tramping over the
14-month period, the Silver multi-colored hills and the music
King produced in excess of a of steel pounding against rock is
million dollars in bullion. at times to be heard as the
Things were good in and district prepares to come awake.
around Calico for a couple of While the ghosts of old Calico
years, but what was later to attempt to rest in their pine-
become known as the "Panic of board coffins, a new Calico has
1893" was building. The price of sprung up—this time a recon-
the precious white metal was struction of the way the old
dropping fast and as demand fell camp supposedly appeared dur-
off, so did the need for miners. ing its prime. In 1950 Walter
Hard times were upon Calico Knott of Knott's Berry Farm
and every other western silver fame acquired the old townsite
camp, with miners being laid off and set about transforming it in-
in wholesale numbers as mines to a tourist attraction.
either curtailed production or Calico is now an interesting
shut down. Silver finally rested example of a once great and col-
at about 26 cents per troy ounce orful mining camp. While not
and mining stopped. exactly authentic, it is never-
Chloriders worked the old theless an accurate representa-
These adobe remains are believed to date back to old Calico, Calico diggings sporadically for tion of what an 1885-vintage
probably having served as homes, shops or offices for the years but all production ended desert mining camp might have
inhabitants of a century ago. when the United States entered looked like.
33
(Uacius Ctio Qllarton
THE DESERT ROCKHOUND
by RICK MITCHELL
Collecting Sites: Western red and blue. the six-inch ones. These rough- C. Rice, has recently been pub-
New Mexico offers a good place Petrified cactus has also been ing wheels are very useful in lished and is most interesting. It
to pick up Apache tears. The found along this stretch of the shaping contoured items, espe- covers the various sources of
location is off State Highway 78, Santa Maria and is truly a cially fire agate, and can also be amber throughout the world, as
just on the New Mexico side of unique addition to any collec- used for carving and glass bevel- well as its varieties, history, min-
the border, and extends east ap- tion. The river is well marked, ing. I am sure, if you do any ing and inclusions. There is also
proximately three miles. I have and the access is on the west side lapidary work beyond cabo- a section on old-time beliefs and
the best luck 2.1 miles east of the of the large bridge spanning it. chons and faceting, that these superstitions regarding amber.
state line, where there is a place Take the road heading down new roughing wheels can add The book is a must for anybody
to pull off the highway on the the edge of the river bed, being considerably to your creativity having an interest in that organ-
south. You must crawl under careful not to get into the soft and perhaps lead to results that ic gem. The publisher is Van
the fence and search the ground, sand. Park, and walk for a otherwise would have been very Nostrand Reinhold Company,
under the pine trees. The tears distance, examining the rocks as difficult or even impossible to 450 West 33rd Street, New
are not large, most being well you go. achieve. For more information, York, NY 10001.
under one inch in diameter, but New Equipment: Lunzer contact the Crystalite Corpora- A Starter Gem Collec-
they polish nicely and can be Industrial Diamonds is now tion, 13449 Beach Avenue, tion: Paul Durand, 300 North
made into beautiful necklaces marketing two new diamond-tip Marina Del Rey, CA 90291. Fourth, Room 1414, St. Louis,
when strung like beads. I suggest scribing pens. Lunzer has long (^=^There are two new adhes- MO 63102 is offering an excel-
lightly polishing them, trying been one of the prime suppliers ives on the market, both distrib- lent introductory set of gem-
not to grind away their interest- of diamond-tip pens for glass en- uted by Johnson Brothers. One stones to those just getting into
ing prune-like exterior. This is a graving, and the two new is Hot Stuff, a glue that only the hobby or wanting to give
productive and scenic location, models will make them even takes three to 10 seconds to dry. gemstone gifts. The set comes in
worth searching out if you are in more prominent in that field. It can only be used on tightly fit- a velvet-lined jewelry case and
the general area. For more information, contact ting parts, though, but this contains ten cabochons and
Lunzer Industrial Diamonds, allows useful applications in ca- facet cut stones, with complete
Inc., 48 West 48th Street, New bochon mounting. A drop of information about each. The
York, NY 10036. Hot Stuff on the back of a flat price is $50.00, which includes
p ^ s ^ I t was bound to happen cabochon and, in a matter of shipping costs. All of the stones
sooner or later! There has long seconds, it is bonded to the are cut by Durand, who has
been a controversy about mounting. long been recognized as a first-
whether rotating or vibrating- The other glue is Hot Stuff rate gem cutter.
type tumblers are best. Now, to Super T, which will fill gaps, so Helpful Hints: Marcasite
help compromise that contro- the parts to be bonded do not specimens often cause the collec-
versy, the B&I Manufacturing necessarily have to fit tightly. It tor problems because of their
Company has designed the Vib- does, however, take a little tendency to decompose. A good
ROtor, which is a vibrating, ro- longer to dry, about 10 to 25 sec- way to slow this process is of-
tating tumbler. The new Vib- onds. Both of these ultra-fast ad- fered by the Oil Belt Rock-
ROtor needs to be charged only hesives should have a multitude hounds. They suggest first sub-
c?;::;>Interesting material has once with grit and once with of uses in the lapidary field. merging the piece in a solution
been found all along Arizona's polisher to produce lustrous They are clear and will also take of one heaping tablespoon of
Santa Maria River, 16 miles east stones in six to nine days. This a polish. Both should be avail- baking soda and a quart of
of Bagdad on State Highway 96. could be a breakthrough in tum- able at most lapidary stores in water. Soak it until .the efferve-
There isn't much water flowing bling. I have not had the op- your area. If not, write Johnson scence has ceased, then wash it
in the Santa Maria, and the dry portunity to use the machine Brothers, 17961 Scotia, Hunt- in clear water. Finally, dry it and
river bed produces a remarkable myself, but I've heard that it is ington Beach, CA 92647, for ad- dip into medium weight mineral
variety of nice specimens. everything it is advertised to be. dresses of suppliers. oil. Let it drain onto a paper
For further information, contact Publications: A complete, towel and wipe off excess oil.
B<Sd Manufacturing Company, 71-page report on gold mining in This procedure will make the
1205 E. Belmont, Fresno, CA Wyoming is available from the marcasite sparkle and will help
93701. Geological Survey of Wyoming, prevent further decomposition.
p^^VThe Crystalite Corpora- P.O. Box 3008, University Sta- Bottle Collectors: Have
tion is now producing diamond tion, Laramie, WY 82071. It you ever found an old bottle and
roughing wheels. They come in covers the history of gold mining wondered if it will turn purple?
four and six-inch diameters and in the state, as well as current A good way to find out is with a
look something like diamond prospects and production. It is black light. Green fluorescence
saw blades, but are thicker. The informative reading for anyone indicates it should turn purple
entire circumference is coated who has an interest in Wyoming when exposed to sunlight for an
with a rounded berm of 100 dia- mining, or who plans to visit extended period of time. If no
Among what can be found are mond grit. This outer berm that state in quest of gold in the fluorescence is observed, most
good pieces of mica, quartz, very comes in 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick- near future. likely it will never turn the beau-
nice moss-agate and beautiful nesses, on the four-inch radius p^==\ A new book, Amber: The tiful amethyst purple so prized
pastel agate in shades of green, models, or 3/8 inch thickness on Golden Gem of the Ages, by Patty by collectors.
34
Cactus Cttg Clarion
DESERT CALENDAR
Six
Mar. 6-Apr. 12: "Little Mary Sun- Multicultural Week; a celebration of
exhibit halls
shine," Mission Inn Dinner Theater, Mis- Hispanic, Native American, Afro
dedicated to the
sion Inn, 3649 7th St., Riverside, Calif. American and Anglo cultures. For exact
horse. From early Greek
Thursdays through Sundays. For reserva- date and further information, contact
to modern times.
tions, call (714) 784-0300. New Mexico Highlands University, Las
Continuing through April: From Vegas, New Mexico.
Generation to Generation. Folk culture In April: Date to be announced. Navajo
in Albuquerque. Albuquerque Museum, Spring Round-Up and Rodeo. Country
Albuquerque, New Mexico. and Western Show, Indian Rodeo in
Through Apr. 25: The Point is Window Rock, Arizona. For further in-
Graphic. Native American prints and formation on date and time, contact the
posters. Wheelwright Museum, Santa Fe, Window Rock Chamber of Commerce.
New Mexico. May 1-3: Rose Festival festivities include
Apr. 1-7: Centennial Days Celebration. Queen's Coronation, pancake breakfast,
All day, downtown Gallup, New Mexico. parade, chuckwagon feed, craft booths,
For further information call the Gallup carnival rides and an art show. Tularose,
Chamber of Commerce. New Mexico. For further information,
Apr. 7: Navajo Rug Auction. 7 p.m., contact Tularose Chamber of Commerce.
Crownpoint Elementary School, Crown- May 2-3: Spring Festival. Traditional
point, New Mexico. Spanish colonial crafts, field planting, Original Remingtons • Russell
Apr. 1 1 - 1 2 : 8th Annual Desert food, entertainment. Old Cienega Village Bronze • One of Four Kachina
Wildflower Tour. Cooke Range, Florida Museum, Rancho de las Golondrinas, La Chess Sets in The World • West-
Mountains, Bear Mountain Guest Cienega, New Mexico. ern Treasures Valued at
Ranch. Silver City, New Mexico. May 7-17: Orange Belt Mineralogical $1,000,000.
Apr. 23-26: Rediscover New Mexico. Society presents their 35th annual show Fine Indian crafts for sale in the gift shop.
Tourism exhibits. All day. Winrock in conjunction with the National Orange Just 60 miles south of Tucson on S-83
Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico. Show. Weekdays noon to 10 p.m. and in historic Patagonia, Arizona
Contact Albuquerque Chamber of Com- weekends 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Continuous
Open daily 9 to 5
merce for more information. demonstrations. For further information,
Your host: Anne Slradling
Apr. 25-26: 3rd Annual Rail Festival at contact show chairman Marvin Jones,
Orange Empire Railway Museum. 17 P.O. Box 5642, San Bernardino, CA
miles south of Riverside in Perris, Califor- 92412 or call (714) 883-1007.
nia. Movies, music and unlimited train
rides. Admission is $4.00 for adults and
May 9-10: The 22nd annual Gem 6k
Mineral Show presented by The Search- setter >
$2.50 for children 6-11. Trains and ers will be held at the Brookhurst Com-
trolleys will run between 10 a.m. and 6 munity Center, 2271 West Crescent Free!
p.m. The museum is located at 2201 Ave., Anaheim, Calif. Hours are Sat. 10 I 1981
South A Street in Perris. For further in- a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sun. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
formation, contact Jim Walker at (213) Demonstrations of jewelry making and Catalog
240-9130. faceting of gemstones. Admission is free,
Apr. 2 5 : 12th Annual Plant Sale. food and drinks will be available. For fur-
Theodore Payne Foundation, 10459 Tux- ther information, contact George E. Arv-
ford St., Sun Valley, California. Hours:
10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission free. Featur-
anites, P.O. Box 3492, Anaheim, CA
92803.
Camping
ing native plants, succulents, cacti, herbs, May 16-17: Fiddler's Contest. Spon- and Backpacking
perennials. sored by Luna County Ranchette Equipment *
Apr. 25-26: 15th Annual Ranch Spring Owner's Association. All day. Hospitality Don Gleason's has been outfitting campers
Bird Migration Weekend. Various species House off Rockhound Park Road south of and backpackers for 23 years. We have the ex-
in Gila National Forest and Gila River. Deming, New Mexico. perience and selection to fill all your outdoor
equipment needs from our new giant 1981 cat-
Bear Mountain Guest Ranch, Silver City, May 16-17: 18th Annual "World of alog.It contains a complete selection of first class
New Mexico. Gems" sponsored by the Berkeley Gem &. quality camping and backpacking equipment, in-
Apr. 25-26: 32nd Annual Nature's Mineral Society at the Activities Building, cluding many items that you will not find else-
Treasures Show, sponsored by the South Contra Costa College, 2600 Mission Bell where, personally selected by our staff of experts.
There is a wide selection of family camping
Bay Lapidary and Mineral Society at the Drive, San Pablo, Calif. Admission: equipment, tents, dining flys, sleeping bags,
Torrance Recreation Center, 3341 Tor- Adults-$1.00, Children—$0.25. Hours: cooking equipment, backpacks and thousands
rance Blvd., Torrance, Calif. Admission Sat. 10 a.m.-8 p.m. and Sun. 10 a.m.-5 of other items, suggestions and tips to make your
is free. Hours: Sat. 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and outdoor adventure safer and more enjoyable.
p.m. There will be exhibits of lapidary art, Write today for your free copy of this catalog and
Sun. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For further infor- minerals, fossils and handcrafted jewelry. guide to the best quality equipment at reason-
mation write P.O. Box 1606, Torrance, For further information write P.O. Box able prices.
CA 90505. 755, Berkeley, CA 94701. FREE In U.S.A. and possessions
Ongoing through April: The Eldorado May 22-24: Annual Green Fair and Otherwise, add $1.50 surface mail,
$3.00 airmail, for postage and handling.
Polo Club's winter season with matches Balloon Festival. Spring exhibits. 8 a.m.
every weekend at 2 p.m. Admission is to 5 p.m. at Red Rock State Park, Gallup,
free. For more information contact Alex New Mexico. I**** ^ y CAMPERS SUPPLY, I N C
43 PEARL ST., P.O. BOX 87F,
Jacoby, Mgr., P.O. Box 733, Palm Desert, May 30-31: May Fair. Arts & Crafts, NORTHAMPTON, MASS. 01061
CA 92261 or call (714) 342-2223. entertainment and dance. Cloudcroft,
In April: Date to be announced. New Mexico.
35
Cactus Cttg Clarion
Q,BJLPJ> B
Continued from page 29
WILD HORSES TO
and calls roll. If anyone fails to
answer, a search party goes out.
COWS TO AID ENERGY CRISIS GET THEIR WATER
During the last few years, a New Method May Produce Elko, Nev.—In Nevada's Dry
new element has been added to Methane from Alfalfa Via Lake Valley and at another site
the social fabric of The Slabs. in Antelope Valley, south of
Younger people are beginning to Cows and Manure Battle Mountain, the Bureau of
arrive, families down on their Blythe, Calif.—Cows doing Such a plant would produce Land Management is moving to
luck, who are taken in by the what comes naturally may pro- as much as 1,800,000 cubic feet establish watering holes for the
seniors. vide part of the answer to of methane daily from 100,000 wild horse population.
This year, for the first time, aAmerica's energy crisis. At an head of cattle. The gas would be The Animal Protection In-
school bus from Brawley picks experimental facility in the Im- distributed by Southern Califor- stitute, which criticized the BLM
up 18 children each morning at perial Valley, scientists from the nia Gas co. and could supply up earlier this year on grounds that
The Slabs. Southern California Gas Co. to 67 percent of the utility's the horses are sometimes
Not everyone is enchanted and the Pacific Gas and Electric residential customers' gas needs blocked from waterholes during
with the sense of community. Co. have been awarded a federal in the Imperial Valley. the hot spells and then die of
One fellow, who has been com- grant to evaluate the commer- Once the methane has been thirst, has said the BLM action
ing to The Slabs since 1932, lives cial prospects for converting cat- extracted from the manure, "is a good start" to correcting a
out on the fringes of Slab City, tle manure into methane, the what's left is a virtually festering problem.
and has erected a "No Trespass- principle component of natural pasteurized byproduct that is Private landowners with wells
ing" sign. He has limited his gas. roughly equivalent in food value on public land have been
social contacts to two cats, two The U.S. Department of to high fiber alfalfa hay and responsible for fencing the
dogs and two friends. Energy recently authorized a could be used as a livestock feed horses out of the waterholes, but
- P a l o Verde Valley TIMES $327,000 grant under the Syn- supplement. API contended the BLM is
thetic Fuels Act to expand this A recent study shows that responsible for the horses under
WILD HORSE research program to study the methane from manure can be the Wild Horse and Burro Act
economic, technical and en- produced for as low as $2.11 per and should take the necessary
ANNIE HONORED vironmental feasibility of million British thermal units steps to save'them.
Grand Junction, Colo.—A building and operating a com- with credits for the byproduct. The two new waterholes are
27,000-acre canyon area near mercial-sized plant. - P a l o Verde Valley TIMES being created in areas where API
here has been designated as the and WHOA! (Wild Horse Orga-
Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse nized Assistance) had forcefully
Range, and has been dedicated pointed out that the horses were
to the late Velma B. (Wild Horse endangered.
Annie) Johnston by the Bureau ATLAS DEFINES U.S. DIALECTS Wild horse defenders contend
of Land Management. Hillbillys Are Crackers in Georgia that if a private party gains
According to Secretary of the water rights on public land,
Interior, Cecil Andrus, "Wild
Hayseeds in Maine there should be a provision that
Horse Annie was the single Chicago, 111.—In Kentucky, •ing words and pronunciations he has to allow access to all com-
greatest force for federal legisla- a hillbilly is a hillbilly, but for his "Linguistic Atlas of the ers, human and animal.
tion against inhumane treat- in Maine, he's a hayseed. United States," which, when it -Elko INDEPENDENT
ment of wild horses and burros In Georgia, he's a cracker, but is finished, will be a virtual
on the public lands." in New York state, he's a library of all the dropped con- PHELPS-DODGE
An executive secretary with backwoodsman. sonants, mispronounced vow-
an insurance firm in Reno, In the "American" language— els, ain'ts, cain'ts and t'aints in PLANS PROBE
Nevada, Mrs. Johnston crusad- or English as it is spoken in the country. OF OLD MINE
ed for 17 years on behalf of wild America—there are at least 479 Not only do the words used Bisbee, Ariz.—News that the
horses and burros on the public differing things one can call a by Americans vary vastly from Phelps-Dodge Corporation in-
rangelands. Considering the an- person of conspicuously rural community to community and tends to begin exploring aban-
imals to be part of the nation's origin, according to Raven state to state, but the pronuncia- doned mine shafts in Bisbee for
living western heritage, she McDavid, who has spent dec- tions vary drastically, even from gold and silver deposits has
shepherded two wild horse and ades collecting such terms. one city neighborhood to prompted speculation about
burro protection bills through McDavid, a professor emeri- another. how much precious metal lies
Congress. tus at the University of Chicago, underground, and where the
—Desert News Service has toiled since the 1940s gather- —Desert News Service company plans to search.
Phelps-Dodge officials play
down the project, calling it a
103-YEAR OLD SURVEY FOUND "long shot" that would have an
insignificant effect on the local
Winnemucca, Nev.—A U.S. pencil, the names of the survey ment and a wet sponge, together work force even if substantial
Army document dated Oct. 6, party, their locations, the date but not touching, in a closed amounts of ore are located.
1877, was found on Pahute Peak and the information that they container. This was done and as Spokesmen have also declined
in the Black Rock Range by a were en route from Mud Springs soon as the old paper could be to reveal which specific mine
Bureau of Land Management to Eagleville (which is in Califor- safely handled it was unrolled, shafts they are planning to
archeologist. nia). The location of Mud unfolded, and put between two probe.
The document was folded and Springs is a mystery to pieces of glass. But a group of unofficial
rolled up inside a cylindrical historians and archeologists. The document may be seen at spokesmen, Bisbee's retired
metal tube that had been sol- Handling such an old docu- the Humboldt Museum in miners, almost unanimously
dered at one end to protect the ment presented a problem. The Winnemucca. chose the Shattuck and Cole
contents. Special Collections Department shafts as spots that hold poten-
The paper is a Corps of at the University of Nevada, tial as gold and silver sources.
Engineers form that listed, in Reno, advised placing the docu- -Humboldt SUN -Bisbee DAILY REVIEW
36
Cactus Cttg Clarion
K

N
HUECO TANKS
Island or Rock Pile?

T HIRTY MINUTES east of El


Paso, a reddish stone uplift
floats serenely over the plain
like a great island in time. Or to speak
prose, a jumble of rocks called Hueco
Today, a pageant of birds and ani-
mals and men endlessly repeats itself at
the Tanks. Among the park's ferns,
hackberry trees, Texas mulberries,
Mexican buckeye, acacias, junipers and
Tanks sits squat amid the Chihuahuan Arizona scrub oaks, hundreds of birds
desert's cacti, ocotillo and sand. Now a normally flourish. Among these are
by Joseph Leach Texas State Historical Park encompass- eagles, hawks, grebes, ducks, teal,
turkey vultures, quail, coots, sand-
pipers, snipe, mourning doves, owls,
hummingbirds, flickers, cliff swallows,
bats, cactus wrens, mockingbirds,
robins, bluebirds, shrikes, warblers,
red-winged blackbirds, orioles, finches,
juncoes, buntings and sparrows.
Over the centuries, animal life at the
Tanks has included deer, bears, prong-
horns and bighorn sheep; today it still
numbers jackrabbits, gray foxes,
skunks, lizards, bobcats, porcupines,
snakes and an occasional mountain
lion.

M
AN CAME onto the scene with
the arrival of a nomadic, archaic
.people bringing simple weap-
Americans of every generation ing 860 acres, the Tanks—island or ons, basketry and skill in crafting yucca
have left their marks at Hueco rock pile or whatever you will—have fiber and rabbit skins into garments.
Tanks, stopping first for its held special meaning for unnumbered They were followed about 900 A.D. by
precious water and now for its centuries, and still do. an offshoot of Pueblan peoples bring-
beauty. The story begins in the dim geologi- ing knowledge of pottery and corn and
cal past, some 34 million years ago, squash, and perhaps other crops.
when a molten mass of syenite intrud- In the 1600s, the placid Tiguas ar-
ed upward into sedimentary rock and rived from northern New Mexico,
stood firm, while water and wind erod- followed soon by the marauding Mes-
ed the softer limestone away. Exposed calero Apaches. Each of these peoples
as enormous boulders, tumbled left signs of their passing—potsherds,
together like a giant's collection of toys stone tools, arrowheads, mortar holes
300 feet high, the rock pile withstood. ground into the boulders, garments
As centuries of weather and sunshine and sandals cast aside in the caves. On
scaled and bombarded its surfaces, the cliff faces and cave walls, each suc-
bubble-like pits developed into natural cessive culture imposed a vast display
huecos (Spanish for "basins," hence the of its art.
name of the place), holding water for Their red, yellow, black, white and
weeks after rainfalls or snows. Cave- brown paintings survive by the hun-
like pockets among and under the dreds, making Hueco Tanks one of
boulders offered more water storage America's major prehistoric art
and favorable growing conditions for galleries. In paint they displayed their
non-desert plants. Ultimately, the daily routines, their rituals, their lore,
pockets and big boulders afforded ex- their sexuality and—one is convinced—
cellent shelter when birds and animal their sheer love of fun and geometric
life settled in. Then ancient man wan- design. Snakes, antelope, deer, insects,
dered into the area, some 10,000 years birds, horses and men (static and danc-
back. ing, leaping and flinging their arms),

38 MAY, 1981
t.

% : •

Xn

':>. I

: \ .
K

\
. ..ii.i.. •*>•
ysv.*?

fr*. j j * ^ - ••

• • - .

.^t.
human faces staring straight at the Since then more pioneers, more
In the Heart of Beautiful Coachella Valley viewer, handprints implanted perhaps westering emigrants, latter-day campers
as early illiterate attempts to say "Kil- and picnickers have added their names
Plan To Stay At The and designs to the rocks. Many, not
roy was here," all these and more
Sands Hotel of Indian Wells decorate cave after cave. most, have dropped their broken bot-
(1/4 mile east of Palm Desert] tles and trash helter-skelter. And there
The red aborigines' hold on the
Tanks gradually weakened as white were those who, out of ignorance
Open Year-Round Europeans arrived. In 1659, when perhaps, have defaced some of the art
Children Welcome with graffiti superimposed on the pre-
Spanish Franciscans established a mis-
' 48 rooms & suites historic. In our time, ignorance ac-
sion at El Paso del Norte (now Ciudad
(kitchens available) counts for some of the vandalism, but
Juarez, Mexico) thirty miles west of
• Large Heated Pool not all.
the Tanks, the Indians could have fore-
Color Television
seen their end. Over the next two cen- So, to defend the area's unique
Individual Air
turies the tall rocks looked down upon legacy, the Texas State Parks and
Conditioning Wildlife Department added Heuco
Spanish and Indian skirmishes, then
upon Mexican and Indian fights, until Tanks to its official park system in
• Moderate Rates
in 1840 a Mexican militia, fed up with 1969. Under strict management now,
CALL OR WRITE FOR Apache raids on El Paso del Norte's the natural scenic features that have in-
RESERVATIONS livestock, surrounded the thieves in the trigued visitors at whatever time they
heart of the Tanks and exterminated arrived and however long they re-
nearly a hundred. Apache bones mained are fully protected, as are the
bleached in the desert for years. wildlife, the Indian art, the pioneer
Summer 1849 brought the first size- names and the Butterfield ruins.
able wave of fair-skinned Americans. Today, for the visitor's convenience,
Most were wagon-train pioneers en a paved access road leads in from U.S.
route to California's gold fields. Many, 180 to picnic shelters, comfort stations
perhaps fearing the worst from perils
ahead, inscribed their names in black
soot on the cave walls as proof they
75-188 Highway 111, had made it that far. Several such Summer 1849 brought the first
Indian Wells, Calif. 92260 names still survive.
Phone (714) 346-8113
In March, 1851, John Russell Bart- sizeable wave of fair-skinned
lett, U.S. Boundary Commissioner,
wrote a detailed record of his visit, re- Americans. Most were wagon-
marking upon the "tanks of clear and
beautiful water." Published in 1854, train pioneers en route to
his Personal Narrative includes his
transcriptions of many Indian pictures California's gold fields.
132 PAGE CATALOG
BIG PICKUPS • MINI-PICKUPS • 4 WD • VAN OWNERS
that are still visible.
During 1858 and 1859, the Butter-
CAMPERS • HIKERS • HUNTERS • FISHERMEN
field Overland Mail Line maintained a
way station to provision its stage- and overnight camping facilities. More
coaches in their rush to cover the 2,700 than providing convenience, govern-
miles between St. Louis and San Fran- ment management helps emphasize
cisco in less than 26 days. Stage drivers Hueco Tanks' special importance.
and passengers, like the nomadic In- Strolling the trails, clambering onto
dians, recorded their names and quick the rocks, peering into the caves, tak-
COPYRIGHT
sketches. In September, 1858, an ex- ing notes maybe, taking pictures
tremely dry period when the huecos perhaps, taking thought surely—as
EVERY ON-OFF ROAD TIRE KNOWN TO MAN!
OFF-ROAD LIGHTS — WARN HUBS & stood empty, the station master Henry David Thoreau advised all peo-
WINCHES — ROUGH COUNTRY SHOCKS welcomed the stagecoach with a help- ple to do when they contemplate na-
& SUSPENSION KITS — ROLL BARS —
G.I. SURPLUS GOODIES - BOOKS &
less gesture at two eight-gallon kegs: ture's mysterious grandeur—one grasps
REALLY UNIQUE ITEMS! "The only water we have left," he some feel of the long pageant that has
5302 Tweedy Blvd. said, "for a dozen men and as many played, and still plays, at this place.
Dept. D head of cattle." At night when the park gates have
South Gate, CA. 90280
clanged shut, or off-season when high
(213) 566-5171
In 1898, Heuco Tanks became the summer heat keeps most people away,
FREE CATALOG-SEND TODAY!
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City structed stone dam that impounds a and silence. Perhaps the ruddy rock
lState_ _Zip I
goodly pond near the overhang called pile does become then its own truest
Comanche Cave dates from Escontrias' self, a serene lofty island floating
time. through time. 0
40 MAY, 1981
re'll all agree there's nothing like enthusiasm and surprising productivity
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be the key to finding old bottles nearby, coast—the countless hoards that still
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SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA 92128 STATE ZIP
The Life and Times of
PADRE KINO
He was unique in
southwestern history: he
came to give.

by Joseph F. Kelly
Photographs by the author

This statue of Padre Kino (below)


is considered an accurate likeness.
Interior of ruined Cocospura
(right) shows ornamentation above
the altar.

42 MAY, 1981
F IFTY MILES southeast of Eusebio became seriously ill while in instance, something happened: The na-
Nogales as the buzzard flies lies Austria and was not expected to live. tives sensed that Padre Kino was no
Cocospura. There isn't any The 18-year-old student prayed to St. threat, but a friend.
town there; the road that passes by Francis Xavier to intercede on his Unfortunately, the good feelings
isn't heavily traveled. Most of the pass- behalf, promising that if he were created by the missionary weren't to
ing traffic is buses and trucks, bound spared, he would devote his life to last — Spanish cruelty reappeared. A
for Cananea, a small ranching center. God. The young man recovered and small settlement had been established,
Tourists seldom visit Cocospura. It is entered the order of Jesuits at the age and the missionary effort was going
off the routes to the beaches, too far of 20. He received training in science well. Padre Kino was on the Pacific
from the border to be convenient and and mathematics, along with theology, coast of Baja California making maps
takes a drive of many dusty miles along at schools in Innsbruck, Ingolstadt, when the trouble came. Some of the
mountain roads to get there. Munich and Oettingen. His brilliant settlement's soldiers suspected the In-
On a knoll looming over a turn in scholastic record came to the attention dians were stealing, and invited the
the road is a heap of disintegrating of the Duke of Bavaria, who offered suspects to a feast. While the Indians
adobe bricks which once were the mis- the young priest a teaching post at the were peacefully eating, the soldiers
sion of Nuestra Senora de Pilar y San- University of Ingolstadt, but mis- fired a cannon into the group.
tiago de Cocospura, founded by Padre sionary work beckoned. The survivors gathered a large war
Kino. The ruins look old, and they Father Eusebio wanted to go to a party and were preparing to attack the
are. From an aesthetic viewpoint, the post in the Phillipines; another newly Spanish camp when the arrival of a
founders chose well — the site domi- graduated missionary also wanted the ship from the mainland allowed the
nates the surrounding valley. As a post. Lots were drawn: Eusebio lost Spanish to evacuate. They sailed far-
practical matter, though, the choice and was sent to Spain to await trans- ther north and landed again on the
was a disaster. It stood in the center of port to the New World. His life was west coast of Baja California. This out-
a favorite route for raiding Apaches. slated to be filled with disappointments post, too, was doomed. Spanish probes
After 200 years of raids, rebuilding and delays: As his ship from Italy ap- reported little to be exploited in Baja
and still more raids, the priests aban- proached the coast of Spain, a fleet California, and funding was cut off by
doned the mission. Then came the bound for the Indies passed him by. authorities in Mexico City. The dis-
treasure hunters, fools with fairy tales He had missed his boat and had to appointed Padre Kino was ordered
and pickaxes who continued the de- wait for the next flotilla. back to the mainland, but he had
struction. After the treasure hunters While in Spain, Father Eusebio learned a valuable lesson about the col-
left, the weather damaged the ruins Chino changed the spelling of his onial Spanish.
still more, aided by the indifference of name to Kino, as the Italian spelling

P
state authorities, who failed to protect meant "Chinaman" in Spanish. After a ADRE KINO's second chance
the site. If you want to see the ruins, two-year wait, he boarded his transport came in 1787. This time he was
don't delay; each rain melts away a lit- ship. It never got out of the harbor: the assigned to "The Rim of Chris-
tle more history. ship struck a sand bar, and Father tiandom," the northern frontier of
During his missionary career, Padre Kino had another six-month delay. Mexico, also known as Primeria Alta.
Kino built 22 such missions. Of these, In 1680, Padre Kino finally arrived Civilized Mexico ended at the edges of
12 have disappeared, destroyed by at Tampico and traveled overland to the Altar and Magdalena rivers, about
marauding Indians, bandits or vandals. Jesuit headquarters in Mexico City. At 75 miles south of the present interna-
Of the 10 sites remaining, eight have the time of his arrival, the order was tional border at Nogales. It was there
been completely rebuilt. At the ninth, engaged in teaching in colonial col- the Pima Indians had defeated an army
San Ignacio, the original walls have leges, but Kino asked for a missionary of conquistadors. To the north of
been plastered over and painted, but- post. His reputation for intelligence, Sonora, in present-day Arizona, the
tresses and additions built on, and a skills in science and very obvious zeal nomadic Pimas lived along the banks
new town has risen around the old convinced his superiors that a way. of the Santa Cruz and San Pedro
church plaza. It is only at Cocospura should be found to grant his request. rivers. Another group of nomads lived
that the ghost of a long dead Jesuit The chance came in 1683: Padre Kino in the deserts toward California; they
might find a familiar structure. In was to accompany an expedition to Ba- came to be known as Papagos (bean
Padre Kino's time, he was pastor to ja California with orders to map the eaters) to the Spanish, for their diet of
three such churches. Two of them are land in addition to performing his mesquite beans. East of Primeria Alta
among the vanished. Only Cocospura religious duties. was Apacheria, land of the people the
remains, the last of a type and hard to Baja California was almost unknown Spaniards called the Tigers of the
duplicate, much like the man who con- at that time, but Spanish pearl divers Desert. At the time of Kino's arrival,
ceived it. had made earlier contact with the the geography of the northern lands
natives. Their cruelty left a feeling of was unsure. Many believed California

I N THE Italian Tyrol at Segno,


a small town near Trent, a son
was born to the Chino family
on August 10, 1645. A family of minor
nobility, the Chinos were able to send
fear and hostility with the Indians
there, and when Kino's group landed
near present-day La Paz, a large party
of natives threatened them. Padre
was an island.
When Kino arrived in Primeria Alta,
he was prepared. Other missionaries
had told him of their experiences with
Kino, alone and unarmed, walked initial contact. Kino had obtained a
their son, who showed academic pro- toward the Indians. He gave them royal cedula, a document that pro-
mise, to good schools. The boy, chris- small gifts and seemed to impress them claimed any Indians converted by him
tened Eusebio Francisco, attended a with his quiet courage. This was to be exempt from the repartimiento system.
Jesuit college at Trent and another the first of many such contacts between This system was devised to assign a
near Innsbruck, Austria. the priest and hostile natives. In each number of Indians to each Spaniard to
DESERT 43
sions as well as ranches and visitas (cir- ciscans, all either Spanish or Spanish
cuit stops) he was to found as he rode Colonial by birth. The Franciscans
hundreds of miles across previously tried: they rebuilt some of the de-
uncharted deserts. His area of contact stroyed missions, but Mexican authori-
spread from near present-day Phoenix ties failed to support the effort. The
west along the Gila River to near what Apaches waged a relentless war. In
Church at Magdalena in Sonora is now Yuma, at the junction of the 1856, the Franciscans gave up. Most of
stands across the plaza from the Colorado and Gila rivers. While ex- the missions established by Padre Kino
Kino Shrine. ploring and converting, Kino proved were vacant and/or destroyed.
California could be reached via land. Interest in Padre Kino was renewed
Kino drew many maps. in 1966, when a joint Mexican/
Padre Kino's missionary career American team of archeologists and
lasted 24 years. In that time, the priest historians discovered his grave site
crisscrossed thousands of miles in the under a sidewalk in Magdalena. The
southwest. He is often called Arizona's City of Magdalena, with aid and
Most Important Pioneer and the cooperation from the Mexican federal
Father of the Southwestern Cattle In- government, constructed a memorial.
dustry. He died at Magdalena, Mexico, The grave was left open, protected by
in 1711 and was buried in front of the a glass-windowed vault. The area be-
altar of a small chapel dedicated to his tween the grave and the present-day
patron saint, Francis Xavier. In the church was made into a lovely 15-acre
years following Kino's death, many plaza with tiled pavements, water foun-
changes came to Mexico. The chapel tains, covered walkways around the
and adjacent church were razed; plaza's edge and plantings of roses and
another church was built there in 1832 flowering trees.
and still stands. Padre Kino's grave There are many statues in Kino's
site was forgotten. honor, but all are based on conjecture,
In what was once Primeria Alta, for no likenesses of the priest are
violent unrest gave rise to wars, known to exist. A record of his
revolts, Indian uprisings, filibustering physical description, from his first
attempts and bandit armies. The north- voyage, is still available in Spain. It
ern portion of Primeria Alta became depicts him as five feet, six inches tall,
Arizona with the Gadsden Purchase. with a broad nose, deep set eyes and a
Padre Kino became a legend, leaving a pronounced brow.
legacy of religion, language and culture In the Hall of Statues in Washing-
to the southwestern Indians. ton, D.C., is a cast likeness of Padre
After the passing of Kino, the Jesuit Kino. The work is based on a com-
mission chain began to come apart: his posite drawing of what he must have
was a hard act to follow. In 1761, looked like, judging by recurrent
Mexican authorities decreed that a hereditary features in the Chino fami-
branch of the Pima nation, the Soba- ly. The sketch of Kino was drawn by
care for and instruct. In reality, the puris, should move from their San Tucson artist Frances O'Brien. After
greedy Spaniards used the system to Pedro River home to join the Pimas the skeleton was discovered, an anthro-
enslave the natives. Mexico was suffer- along the Santa Cruz River. The pologist examined the skull and agreed
ing a labor shortage. Thousands of In- Apaches moved into the vacated land, Kino must have looked as he was por-
dians had died of European diseases increasing attacks on Pimas and Mex- trayed by O'Brien. The skeleton also
and mistreatment as slaves in the silver icans alike and raiding deep into had the bowed legs of a horseman.
mines. The exemption helped Padre Sonora. These raids continued for Padre Kino was far more than
Kino protect his new converts, but it nearly 200 years. In 1767, the final ax statues or memorials can communicate.
was resented by the avaricious colonial fell. Carlos III of Spain wanted com- He was a recognized pathfinder in the
Spanish, who sought revenge in plete control of his empire; he decided southwest. True to his vow of poverty,
slandering the priest. the foreign (Jesuit) priests had to go. he was never known to keep a gift,
Kino's first Pima contact and mis- He ordered the arrest and expulsion of never slept in a bed and never owned
sion were at Dolores, Sonora. He gave all Jesuits from any part of his king- more than two shirts. He was unique
the Indians new crops to raise — such dom, with a death sentence for any in southwestern history, for he came to
as wheat and citrus — showed them Spanish official who failed to obey. give. 0
better ways to farm, introduced cattle In New Spain, the Jesuits were
and ranching, taught them European seized without warning, chained, mis- I NOGALES

skills like iron and wood-working and treated, locked in prisons and then, NOGALES
showed them that if they lived in after a forced march without enough
organized towns and worked together, water, expelled. Many died of the
they would not have to face periodic hardships. The Spanish Mexicans were
starvation. He taught his religion with- taking revenge on the priests who had
out insulting tribal beliefs. The Indians shielded the Indians. After the expul-
idolized him. sion, an attempt was made to reestab-
This was the first of many such mis- lish the missions with the gentle Fran-
44 MAY, 1981
The Desert Palm
by Susan Durr Nix

I
S THERE A pool or golf course seeds by men and animals. In particu- date palms being typical of the former.
in the southwestern deserts that lar, Henderson credits coyotes, who Independent leaflets grow out on both
doesn't boast at least one palm love the small, sweet, date-like berries sides of the long mid-rib of each frond,
tree, gaudy with red or yellow Malibu of the fan palm, with the creation of like a feather. The connected leaflets of
lights? Neatly trimmed of dead fronds the beautiful stands of this tree in a fan palm radiate from a central point
(at $ 15 or more per tree), palms declare California's Palm Canyon (the largest on the rib, so the frond spreads out,
our rapidly multiplying artificial oases grove in the world) and dozens of other hand-like. Both kinds grow topsy-turvy
as clearly as they do the natural ones. canyons in the Coachella Valley. Ran- compared to other trees. They have no
Palms, along with roses and rye grass, dall Henderson founded Desert Maga- branches, no bark, no annual growth
now thrive in Palm Springs and Phoe- zine and was deeply interested in the rings and no woody cylinder. Their
nix, but a natural oasis is a genuine establishment of the Living Desert trunks are porous, spongy bundles of
and greater miracle — a fertile, green Reserve. The Reserve's fan palm oasis fiber with a topknot of tough evergreen
haven supporting a profusion of life in is named for him. leaves, in the center of which is the ter-
the desert. minal bud where all growth takes
Ancient Egypt gave us the word place. (Know that when you eat the
oasis, a compound of "to dwell" (oeuh) heart of palm served in fine restaur-
and "to drink" (saa). The world's larg- ants, harvesting it kills the tree.) More-
est, the Nile Valley, stretches 1,600 over, palms don't drop their leaves like
miles through absolute desert, fed by other trees. The dead fronds hang
the great Nile River. Smaller ones oc- down the trunk, so much like a grass
cur wherever springs or artesian wells skirt that in Hawaii, Washingtonias are
bring underground water to the sur- called hula palms.
face, or where local elevation causes ex- Hundreds of pencil-thick rootlets an-
traordinary rainfall. Classic Saharan chor desert palms and absorb the water
communities of date palms and people that enables them to reach a height of
in the middle of nowhere are not or- 40 to 100 feet and to live for 100 to
thodox oases, botanically speaking. 200 years. Palm trunks taper very lit-
Date palms were introduced by people tle, being uniformly thick or thin de-
long ago and eventually supplanted the pending on how close together they
natural vegetation, thought to be olean- grow. Since they like to have their
der and tamarisk. Only in their com- heads in the sun, they will shoot up,
parative isolation from plant disease sacrificing girth for height.
and pests are North African oases Plants that share oases with fan
"typical." palms vary significantly from place to
Nowadays we must look to our own The Pushawalla Oasis near, place. There is no fixed plant com-
deserts, particularly the Colorado Des- Palm Springs, California. munity and therefore no predictable
ert in Southern California, for a "true" oasis ecology, or interaction between
oasis. From Palm Springs to the Salton This fan palm is the only palm plants and animals, primarily because
Sea, there are more than 100 natural native to the western United States. It the palms are at home in both alkaline
fan palm oases, holdouts from a is restricted to the Colorado Desert and and non-alkaline soils. Most other
moister age when the desert floor was a to one stand in the Kofa Mountains of plants are not so adaptable. Arrow-
swampy sea surrounded by tropical Arizona. It also ranges briefly into Baja weed and honey mesquite are among
plants. Only a few of the water-loving California. It is the rarest of palms in the few conspicuous in both soil types,
palms (Washingtonia) survived later its natural habitat but the most com- according to Jan Zabriskie, director of
climatic and geologic changes, not in mon elsewhere, for it has long been the Deep Canyon Research Center.
stream-fed canyons where they now cultivated as an ornamental tree. Wash- One study found an average of only
flourish, but along the lines of the San ingtonia is the gift of the southwest eleven species of plants per oasis, but
Andreas fault, where clayey soil desert to the streets of Beverly Hills these ranged from maidenhair ferns
dammed up underground water. and Miami and to the lush gardens of and stream orchids to salt grass and
According to the late Randall Hen- the Riviera and Hawaii, prized for its ocotillo.
derson, a desert pioneer who made a rapid growth and tropical associations. Regardless of the soil type, fire
life-long study of these oases, the palms Palms are broadly divided into seems to play an important role in
were later carried into the canyons as feather-leafed and fan-leafed varieties, oasis ecology. It clears the ground of

DESERT 45
shrubby plants and debris, leaving the
palms intact, for the most part, but
minus their shag of dead fronds. Lack-
ing cambrium layers where growth in

Complete Your other trees takes place by cell division,


and lacking bark (they have a sort of
rind instead), palms are almost imper-
vious to fire. The rind may be burned

Collection Of to a crisp and the green fronds may


wilt and die, but in a few weeks new
growth appears. Meanwhile, young
palm seedlings germinate and develop

DiHfSL
Magazines!
freely because competition from other
plants has been eliminated. Fire
prevents the underbrush from growing
unchecked and choking out the palms
entirely.
Numerous animals are associated
with oases. Bighorn sheep and mule
deer visit, as do many birds, reptiles
and rodents. It is a humid microhabitat
THE that supports many insects and insect-
eating creatures like bats, frogs and
fish. Some animals are drawn to fan
palms, among them hooded orioles,
that build hanging nests in the fronds
with loose threads pulled from sur-
rounding leaflets, and western yellow
bats that roost in the green crown. Liz-
ards and rodents hide in the thatch;
canyon wrens nest there, too. Despite
the profusion of life, there appears to
be only one creature that lives nowhere
but in fan palm oases: the gaint palm-
boring beetle (Dinapate wrightii).
This elusive and destructive beetle
spends all but its adult life in the trunk
of desert palms, gnawing labyrinthine
tunnels that crisscross one another up
and down the trunk. It takes three to
five yeaps from the time females lay
eggs in a communal chamber, filled
with grub-nourishing sap, chewed
fibers and fecal material, for the new
adults to emerge. Adults are capable of
long flights and are preyed upon by
Back issues of DESERT MAGAZINE are available. bats. Mating occurs inside the tree, but
To get your copies, write: not until males have fought over the
females. They make an audible clicking
sound in combat, which may be the
Susan Golden origin of the Indian belief that evil
Desert Magazine Librarian spirits lurked in palm fronds.
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, CA 92261 As the grubs bore, they masticate the
fibers with small blunt "teeth" in their
List the month and the year of the magazine(s) you stomachs. Digestion leaves behind tun-
nels tightly packed with frass, which
desire and enclose a check (see price list below). fuses with the tree fibers like Plastic
Make checks payable to DESERT MAGAZINE. Wood. This strengthens the tree and
keeps it standing long after the grubs
1970-present 1.50 1945-1949 7.50 have killed it. Some palms are more
completely infested than others; a few
1960-1969 2.50 1937-1944* broods of beetles can be tolerated with-
1950-1959 5.00 out too much harm to the host.
Despite their omnipresence, the beetles
*For issues from 1937-1944 contact Susan Golden for availability and price. evidently do not present a grave threat
to the survival of palm oases. 0
46 MAY, 1981
Living Off the Land
by Stella Hughes
were available: dandelion, wild rhu-
barb (canaigre), lamb's quarter,
pigweed, sunflower seeds, yucca fruit,
prickly pear pods, wild onions, ground
cherry (tomatillos) and several plants
used for drinks, among them squaw-
berry, mint, cota, rose hips and Mor-
mon tea. This is only a partial list-
there were many other kinds of wild
foods harvested.
The modern Apache rarely harvests
mescal today. Few gather and store any
wild fruits, not even grapes or elder-
berries, both of which are relished by
Anglos in wines and jellies. The lus-
cious prickly pear apples are consumed
by coyotes and bears, being shunned
for the most part by the Indian. Few
Apaches even know the common
names for seeds or summer greens,
much less the medicinal uses for many
of the wild plants known to their an-
cestors. When asked for such informa-
tion, most laugh and say, "I dunno.
Just the old timers used that stuff."
There is one harvest the Apaches
still participate in wholeheartedly,
however, and that is of acorns from the
black oak. In July and August, the
mamas and the papas, the old folks and
all the kids pile into the pickup and
head for the foothills, there to camp
The mesquite bean was a favorite food of the nomadic tribes.
and gather as many pounds of acorns
as they can. The acorns that have

H AVING LIVED with the


Apache Indians for 30 years,
I'm always being asked what
kind of food they eat. The answer is
just about what we eat, with possibly
seldom had a permanent residence.
Those who were old or otherwise un-
able to travel seeded small plots of
corn, beans and squash, but these
crops made up only a small fraction of
fallen are gathered first, then a canvas
or blanket is spread on the ground
under the tree, and the limbs are
shaken vigorously. Black oak trees
grow up to 50 feet in height.
more emphasis on bread, meat and po- the food consumed in a year. Apache women still grind shelled
tatoes. Leafy green salads and most Large gathering parties harvested acorns into meal, which is used for
vegetables are more often off than on a saguaro fruit, prickly pears and the acorn stew or made into small, flat
menu, but sweets, especially bakery Apache staple, mescal (agave). Mes- cakes to be baked in embers. I've sat in
goods, are popular. However, it wasn't quite beans ran a close second to the hot sun at Apaches rodeos, eating
always this way: mescal as a chief food. Also high on roasted acorns along with the specta-
The western Apache was never any the list were acorns, pifion, black wal- tors. You have to acquire a taste for
great shakes at farming, nor is he a nuts and jojoba nuts. In season, they acorns—many Anglos dislike them,
farmer today. Before being supported gathered wild grapes, manzanita ber- claiming they are too bitter. Well, as a
on reservations by a conscience-stricken ries, elderberries, currants and choke- kid, I thought avocados and olives un-
Uncle Sam, the Apaches had a diet of cherries. Dozens of different kinds of fit to eat. Artichokes, asparagus and
meat and undomesticated plants. Hunt- grass seeds were harvested to be green chiles were high on my list of
ing and gathering seasonal foods kept ground into meal. yucky foods. Now, no matter what the
them constantly on the move; they In summer, all kinds of fresh greens price, I relish all of these.

DESERT 47
There's a heck of a lot of difference
between eating for survival and eating
MILLION DOLLAR for pleasure. A bowl of acorn gruel
doesn't do a thing for my taste buds,
BLACKJACK nor do I get excited over a mess of pig-
weed greens, even when doused with
vinegar. Yet, a starving person would
Bv Ken Uston look upon either as manna from
heaven.
Now you can own the most important blackjack book ever published.
This long awaited event in the world of gaming books presents the most In the fall, during a good pinon year,
complete coverage of the game ever printed. Only the world's most ex- Apaches vie with thousands of Mexi-
perienced professional blackjack player, Ken Uston, could have written can-Americans in gathering this deli-
this book. Heretofore unpublished details of professional play, cheating, cious little nut. I've always had mixed
team play, learning techniques and a host of inside secrets are revealed feelings when we've gathered a good
for the first time in print. * This is the story of how Ken and six sets of supply of pinons: I know there'll be a
teammates won over $4,000,000 from casinos around the world. * This long winter ahead with sharp little
is a textbook that will take you from beginner to intermediate, to advanc- pieces of nut shell in the rugs, filling
ed, to professional levels of play—with a system you can learn at each all the ashtrays, in Levi pockets and
level. The Uston Advanced Point Count —complete in this even between the grandkids' bedsheets.
book—previously sold for $97. * This is the most complete glossary of There are a number of recipes call-
blackjack terms ever printed. * This is a guide to all the previously ing for pinon nuts, but I've never
published blackjack books and the major blackjack schools. * This is known the Apaches to cook with them.
over $500 worth of blackjack materials. * This is the book you cannot be I don't blame them a bit: pinons are
without. BE THE FIRST TO HAVE YOUR COPY. good eating just as they are. Anyone
who has shelled more than a cupful
ONLY $14.95 plus $1.00 postage and handling. knows what a tedious task that can be.
Use check, money order or VISA/MasterCharge [include billing address, card no., expiration date]. The squawberry or skunk bush is a
(California residents must add 9<X sales tax. Gambling Times subscribers may deduct S1.50]
small shrub found almost everywhere
SEND YOUR ORDER TO: from Canada to Mexico. The berries
are bright red, flattish in shape, cov-
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH SERVICES ered by tiny hairs and quite sticky.
839 IV. Highland Avenue, Hollywood, CA 90038 They're very tart, so much so that the
drink made of squawberries is called
"lemonade" or "Kool-Aid" by the
Stay Apaches. The scientific name is Rhus
Moving? with the
At the clean
and new
Monument
trilobata.

Squawberry Drink
Please let us know 8 weeks in
advance to insure continuous
service on your Desert Magazine
giants.... Valley KOA
campground.
Grind squawberries in a food mill. Com-
subscription. Attach the mailing With individual bine 1 cup ground berries with 4 cups
label for your old address and trailer hook-ups, a water. Let stand for about 8 hours.
write in your new address below. Strain off juice. Dilute and sweeten to
general store and laundry/shower facilities.
taste. Squawberry juice can be mixed
rn
Monument with other juices or added for tartness to
otherwise bland juices when making jelly.
Valley KOA KOA
m Stay at near-by Goulding's Acorn Stew
Lodge & Trading Post. Furnished,
Cut stew meat in small pieces. Sear meat
air-conditioned rooms, family style
meals and shopping facilities.
in fat in heavy iron skillet. Season as de-
Plus daily guided tours into the sired (Apaches add only salt). Add water
heart of Monument Valley. An to cover and simmer until meat is tender.
adventure you wont want to miss. Stir in acorn meal to thicken. Some add
red chile. Serve hot.
N
Goulding's Living off the apparently inhospit-
Lodge & Tours _ able desert would seem an impossible
For free brochure feat to the novice, but several books re-
and information cently published are crammed full of
write Box 1-M,
Monument Valley,
recipes using wild fruits, greens and
• Please renew my subscription for
Utah 84536. nuts that are native to the southwest.
• 1 year$1 • 2 years $20
• Payment enclosed • Bill me later Or call (801) American Indian Food and Lore, Mac-
ADD $4 PER YEAR U S CURRENCY IF OUTSIDE U S
727-3231. millan Publishing Co., Inc., is the
POSSESSIONS CANADA OR MEXICO
most informative in my opinion. Warn-
Mail to: Desert Subscriber Service, ing: I urge readers to be absolutely cer-
P.O. Box 28816, San Diego, CA 92128 tain that wild plants are properly iden-
Reservations are necessary for rooms, meals, and tours
tified before preparing any recipes. 0
48 MAY, 1981
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5117
Reprieve for Brighty
by ALAN J. KANIA

I T WAS NOT the sort of or-


chestrated event that would have
made Wild Horse Annie proud,
but Grand Canyon's wild burros
have been saved. Last July, the Fund
Service property are exempt from the
wild horse and burro legislation.
Thus, the Park Service decided to
enforce seven federal mandates that
protect the National Park Service eco-
from the park's inventory, but the par-
tial removal did not change the down-
ward trend of the park's ecosystem.
Chief Ranger J.P. Brooks, reporting
range status in 1932, stated that over-
for Animals embarked upon the most system from exotic (non-native) species grazed conditions existed in all areas
expensive wild horse and burro of plants and animals. The feral burro inhabited by burros. In many places,
roundup ever staged in the west. was thought to be the progeny of do- herbage growth was cropped to the
Wild Horse Annie fought for the mestic animals released by prospectors, roots; some species of shrubbery were
preservation, management and control explorers and settlers, so to adhere to totally destroyed. Soil erosion was also
of wild horses and burros. From 1950 federal instructions to rid the parks of greater in burro infested areas, he
to 1977, Annie worked quietly behind exotic species, three southwestern na- claimed.
the scenes to halt other kinds of round- tional parks began a removal program The emotional stigma attached to
ups that would have sent thousands of that would have been both easy and eliminating the "desert canaries" was
these creatures to the canneries. In rec- economical. Park Service marksmen complicated in the 1960s by Marguer-
ognition of her 27-year avocation, she began selective eradication programs ite Henry's book for children, Brighty
was singled out as the person responsi- on burros in high impact areas within of the Grand Canyon. "Right to life"
ble for the passage of two federal laws Death Valley National Monument, proponents used the subsequent movie,
designed to protect wild equids on Bandelier National Monument and Brighty, as the key emotional rallying
public land. However, the public lands Grand Canyon National Park. point to keep the animals alive in the
described in the 1971 Wild Horse and In Grand Canyon, managers docu- Grand Canyon. A large bronze statue,
Burro Act (Pt 92-195) did not include mented the damage allegedly caused by cast from an original sculpture by
several classifications in the interpreta- the burros within five years of the es- Peter Jepsen for Stephen F. Booth Pro-
tion of the regulations: Indian reserva- tablishment of the park. Between 1924 ductions, was used in the movie and
tions, military land and National Park and 1969, 2,800 burros were removed later donated to the Grand Canyon
50 MAY, 1981
Contrary to popular belief, the
feral burro is relatively placid and
easy to handle, (left)
Though sleepy-eyed, these burros
in transit are not tranquilized.
(right)

Visitors' Center in 1966. For years,


children flocked to the courtyard to see
"their Brighty."
In an effort to minimize emotional
support for the canyon's burros, the
statue was removed and stored in the
back room of the park's archives.
Keeping the dust off the statue is a
wrap that has been described as a cape
or a shroud, depending on one's view-
point.
A volunteer worker in the archives
tells of one young visitor to that area,
normally off limits to the general pub-
lic. The youngster, with tears in his
eyes, peered under the chain barrier
and whimpered, "Where's Brighty?"
The volunteer took the child by the
hand and led him to the statue lan-
guishing among the other relics. She
was tempted to ask the child, "And
now, would you like to see the gun
we're going to use to kill Brighty?"
Jim Walters, Chief of Resource Man-
agement, is the "heavy" in the Grand
Canyon management framework pro-
posal. Said he: "We don't want to
shoot these burros, but we are extreme-
ly concerned with the damage these ex-
otics are causing in the park. We want
them cleared out as expeditiously as
possible."
The Park Service has determined
that destruction of the wild burros
would be the most humane and
economic means of removing the un-
wanted animals. Over a three-year per-
iod, the Grand Canyon rangers would
only have to budget an estimated long and lugubrious history of these believing that Spanish explorers and
$53,000 to complete the unpleasant brave little animals — a history which miners brought the first burros to the
task, and to add fences to prohibit fur- up to now has amounted to nothing arid parts of this country. However,
ther infestation. Live trapping and but unsuccessful rescue attempts, alter- among the studies in the Park Environ-
removal would cost the Park Service an nated with bloody slaughters." mental Impact Statement is a prelimin-
estimated $225,000 per year. Meanwhile, resource manager ary report written by Paul S. Martin,
Many organization and individuals Walters addressed the public pressure professor of Geoscience at the Univer-
protested the proposed eradication of initiated by Amory and other "obstruc- sity of Arizona, at Walters' request.
the burros. However, only one organi- tionists," as he calls them, in Washing- Dr. Martin discovered fossil bones and
zation was able to demonstrate the ton: "We are not a public relations a hoof within the present burro envi-
know-how and money to humanely firm. We'll just attempt to give facts. ronment in Rampart Cave. Martin re-
capture and remove the stubborn ani- We'll explain what the facts are and ported that the specimen, dating back
mals. Cleveland Amory and the Fund that is all we can do. We try to deal in 26,000 years, is "indistinguishable
for Animals offered to spend $325,000 facts. It is, we hope, a carefully re- from a modern burro hoof." While the
on a demonstration project to prove searched biological analysis. We can't study alone is not sufficient to reverse
there were alternatives to shooting the deal with the Bambi syndrome except the long established Park Service pol-
animals. And Amory recently stated by providing people with our research, icy of eliminating exotic species, Mar-
that his group is willing to spend more feasibility studies and resources." tin's evidence does question the offical
than a million dollars if necessary. Park Service officials claim that the assumption that the burro is an unwel-
"We are very pleased," boasted wild burro is not indigenous to the come intruder.
Amory, "particularly considering the southwest. The service is on record as Jim Walters dismisses Martin's re-
DESERT 51
port as an "interesting academic theory holds the emotionally stacked deck.
Q I N S H O O T I N G * BO|> that is basically unsubstantiated — a His organization has raised the funds
minority academic opinion. It's being to figuratively buy the Grand Canyon,
TREASURE used as a straw by the horse and burro
people . . . "
canyon by canyon. The current round-
up, as Amory states, will affect all the
burros and horses in the west. "The
HUNTING
T HE ELDER statesman of wild next time someone says 'shoot them,' "
The Outdoor Hobby horse and burro organizations explained the portly crusader, "we'll
involved in the ongoing contro- have a proven, reliable alternative."
for FUN and PROFIT!
versy is the International Society for The nation's press was treated last
If you want to learn how to get
started in this fascinating hob-
the Protection of Mustangs and Bur- July 25 to a pablum view of rounding
by, contact us today. We'll mail ros. Past president Velma B. (Wild up wild burros with no stress, no injur-
to you a treasure hunting book, Horse Annie) Johnston fought for the ies and no controversy. But several
a consumer's metal detector welfare of the wild equids from 1950 days before the reporters arrived, the
guide, and true stories of peo-
ple, just like you, who have
until her death in 1977. ISPMB found- wranglers lost a horse in a freak acci-
found treasure. No obligation. er Helen Reilly now continues the soci- dent. The cowboys and the Fund for
ety's policy of multi-use management Animals denied any such fatality oc-
FREE BOOKS and control of all users of the public
land.
curred; however, the injury was moni-
tored over NPS radios and is now a
TOLL FREE NUMBER P I
TEXAS
Explains Reilly, "We feel that if the matter of government record.
1-800-442-4889 Park Service had properly surveyed Dave Ericsson, chief burro wrangler
ALL OTHER STATES burro population numbers in the past for the Fund, pledges that no tranquil-
1-800-527-4011 and had properly managed and con- izers will be used, noting that the
trolled the herds before they became
GARRETT g out of control, there wouldn't be the
Bureau of Land Management tried an
equine muscle relaxant during a Pryor
ELECTRONICS Mountain Wild Horse Refuge roundup
Dept. G100 in 1968 and it didn't work. The body
2614 National Drive "I've seen as many as ten weight and chemistry of a wild equid
Garland, Texas 75041
214 278-6151 bullets in 'em before they go was too difficult to accurately calculate,
down, let alone die. . . ." so mortality rates were excessively
high. The first 43 burros lifted from
^ O d S A1IWVJ M3N * the canyon, according to Ericsson, re-
mained extremely docile during all
necessity for such a drastic program." phases of the roundup.
ISPMB presidents Velma Johnston Jerry Owens, humane officer for the
and Helen Reilly have had nearly 50 Fund for Animals, will try anything to
years of combined wild horses and prevent the Park Service from shooting
burro protective experience between the burros. Owens claims that burros
Free? them. Together, Johnston and Reilly are a particularly tough animal to kill.
1981 worked on the successful passage of "I've seen 'em with as many as ten
Catalog two federal laws that give the equines bullets in 'em before they go down, let
enough protection to stem the whole- alone die," he says.
sale slaughter of wild horses and bur- But, despite the controversy, phase
ros throughout the west. ISPMB is one of the roundup has been com-
Camping currently assessing the possibility of
new federal legislation to include na-
pleted. The trials are over and the
Fund's wranglers can begin in earnest.
and Backpacking tional park lands in the present laws. The final bray from the burros, how-
Equipment The society also is researching evi- ever, will be heard in Washington,
Don Gleason's has been outfitting campers dence to prove that the ancestry of the D.C. With the guidance and know-how
and backpackers for 23 years. We have the ex- North American wild horse goes back of the International Society for the Pro-
perience and selection to fill all your outdoor
equipment needs from our new giant 1981 cat-
60 million years, uninterrupted even tection of Mustangs and Burros and
alog.lt contains a complete selection of first class by the Ice Age. the supportive action of the American
quality camping and backpacking equipment, in- Unfortunately, though, ISPMB's an- people, the wild burro may be given a
cluding many items that you will not find else-
where, personally selected by our staff of experts. nual budget is less than what the Fund final, absolute reprieve. Public indigna-
There is a wide selection of family camping for Animals spent in just two weeks at tion already has told the Park Service
equipment, tents, dining flys, sleeping bags,
cooking equipment, backpacks and thousands
the Grand Canyon. And, too, the Park to keep brays instead of rifle fire re-
of other items, suggestions and tips to make your Service has been suffering from peren- sounding through the canyon. But the
outdoor adventure safer and more enjoyable. nial budget cuts that have reduced cur- Park Service, and Walters in particu-
Write today for your free copy of this catalog and
guide to the best quality equipment at reason- rent projects and made new projects an lar, won't surrender without the last
able prices. impossibility. Reiterated Jim Walters, word. "We attempt to deal in facts on
FREE In U.S.A. and possessions "People are asking us to foot the bill this issue," concludes Walters, "and
Otherwise, add $1.50 surface mail,
$3.00 airmail, for postage and handling. instead of shooting the burros. We the cold, hard fact is the logistical facts
can't even afford our park salaries, gov- of operating in the Grand Canyon.
CAMPERS SUPPLY I N C ernment vehicle expenses and park in- You can talk all you want when you're
43 PEARL ST., P.O. BOX 87F, terpreters!" on the rim, but it's very difficult when
NORTHAMPTON, MASS. 01061
So it seems that Cleveland Amory you're down there with the burro." 0
52 MAY, 1981
PRODUCT OF THE MONTH

Cooling Hot Cars

M ORE THAN 10,380,000 auto-


matic transmissions failed last
> year, according to the rebuild-
ers' trade association. Ninety percent
of these failures were caused by over-
Seals and
clutches
burn-out,
TRANSMISSION JFE EXPECTANCY CHART

High Heat
Short Mileag e

heating. Similarly, a motor service oil forms


carbon.
trade magazine study indicated Plates 295°
5,728,000 engine failures, many being slip.

the result of overheated oil.


Seals 260°
Not all—in fact, not even a majority harden.
—of the failures involved recreational
vehicles or passenger cars towing trail- Varnishes 240°
form.
ers, the usage most commonly blamed
for chronic overheating of transmission 220°
fluid and engine oil. It can happen to
any car, and is more likely to happen 195°
to the new breed of economy car than
to the gas guzzling, big-engined be-
hemoths of the recent past. LOW heal
The reason is what engineers call the Long Mileage

displacement-to-weight ratio, the sim- 2,000 4,000 15,000 25,000 50,000 120.000 240,000
ple relationship of the size engine to mi

the curb or loaded weight of the vehi-


cle. A pickup truck with a 454-cubic- Modern high-quality lubricants con- 15 percent loss in gasoline mileage.
inch V-8 (a popular Chevrolet offering) tain more and better additives to com- Among the various brands of auxil-
with a large cab-over camper grossing bat oxidation but, unfortunately, vehi- liary cooling units on the automotive
9,352 pounds has a DTW ratio of cle manufacturers have negated much of aftermarket, the line marketed by Hay-
20.5, as does, approximately, a Volks- this improvement by recommending den, Inc. is perhaps the most complete.
wagen Rabbit with an 89-cubic-inch longer and longer intervals between There are types of engine oil and trans-
engine and a weight of 1,837 pounds. changes. That, combined with the mission fluid coolers, or combinations
Add a 170-pound driver, a 140-pound trend to smaller engines propelling thereof, to fit most every make and
passenger and 150 pounds of baggage heavier (for them) loads, creates a criti- weight of passenger car and light truck.
to the VW and the ratio jumps to cal need for auxilliary cooling, simply Prices start at $29.95 for the cheapest
25.69. You could add more than a ton because raising the lubricant tempera- transmission cooler. Thanks to a pat-
of passengers and their gear to the ture just 20 degrees doubles the rate at ented "quick-connect" system of at-
camper before reaching the same ratio. which oxidation takes place. taching, units may be installed by do-
So, you can see it is much easier to An automatic transmission is consid- it-yourselfers in 30 minutes or less.
overload, and therefore risk overheat- ered to be running hot when the fluid Hayden products are available at
ing, a vacation-bound VW than a typi- temperature is 200 degrees Fahrenheit automotive, RV and department stores
cal RV. Still, most people associate the or more. Trailer towing or heavy loads everywhere. The company also manu-
need for transmission fluid and engine can create transmission temperatures of factures the coolers carried by the J.C.
oil coolers only with RV service. 350 degrees or more, even at moderate Penny, Sears and Pep Boys chains. For
The other important factor in over- ambient temperatures. A transmission further information, write Hayden
heating either component is the quality having a life expectancy of 120,000 Inc., Dept. D, 1531 Pomona Rd., Cor-
of the engine oil or transmission fluid miles at 195 degrees will fail within ona, CA 91720.
used. The better the quality, the great- 2,000 miles at 315 degrees.
er the resistance of the oil or fluid to The symptoms of overheating are
oxidation, which is the chemical reac- difficult for the average driver to de- Attention Manufacturers and
tion of oxygen and hydrocarbon com- tect. Transmission slippage, for exam- Marketers: Desert Magazine will be
pounds in the lubricant. Oxidation ple, cannot generally be felt until the glad to evaluate your product for inclu-
creates new and invariably undesirable slipping internal components are on sion in this column. We require that it
compounds such as sludge, varnish and the brink of total failure; the damage be new, commercially available and of
acids (often in combination), which ac- from a severe but short period of over- specific interest to our readers. For
cumulate to block vital passages while heating may not become evident until details, write New Products Editor,
at the same time eroding the host 20,000 or 30,000 miles later. Mean- Desert Magazine, P.O. Box 1318, Palm
metal. while, the slippage can cause a 10 to Desert, CA 92261.0
, DESERT 53
The Best of
DAVID MUENCH
"The idea of just happening by a location and accomplishing
a great photograph any time of the day or year is one I tend
to reject. The percentages of doing that well in a lifetime are
just not favorable . . . "
Text by Don MacDonald

D AVID MUENCH, who select-


ed the photographs which ap-
pear on these pages as his best,
calls himself a "maverick who studied
under the tutorship of nature." He
those which might be selected by an
art director to illustrate a story or il-
luminate a calendar. Muench prefers
strong, backlit moods, and sometimes
his quest for mystery results in
owes little, he says, to the other great shadow, or those deep, resonant tones
photographers of the desert landscape, so troublesome to those who create the
except perhaps to his father, Josef color separations needed for printing
Muench, who introduced him to the these pages. If the picture is of a
camera. cactus, he thinks, there must be more
So, his photography is very personal. purpose than to count the needles.
What he would choose as "best" from David Muench was born on June 25,
his work might not be the 1936, and lives and works in Santa
choice of his peers in the profession, Barbara, California, with his wife Bon-
for they would understandably judge nie and their two children. Of the sev-
with their own eyes. Muench doesn't eral formal schools he has attended, he
photograph what he sees so much as singles out the Art Center School of
what he feels. Design in Los Angeles as having been
Neither are the pictures shown here most basic in its influence. And that

At 45, David Muench (above) is world-famous for his specialty of desert


landscapes. Typical is the scene (right) which he titled Timeless Ripples.
It was taken at Monument Valley, Navaho Tribal Park, Arizona.
54 MAY, 1981
m
"I could use a few more lifetimes to
accomplish all I have felt and seen.

The giant saguaro with its sometimes twisting arms


(above) contrasts with the moonscape (right) of the
Alabama Hills in California's Sierra Nevada.
56 MAY, 1981
fits, for Art Center deals more with im- tains, canyons, valleys, hills and work can be recognized by experts at a
age and formal composition; Muench plains—are what particularly inspire and glance, David Muench has in a sense
mastered the technicalities of motivate my directions, both consciously worked in the shadow of his famous
photography at Rochester Institute of and unconsciously. father, Josef, who is still an active and
Technology in New York. "Most commonly I plan a scheduling sought-after photographer. Josef is per-
Choosing his subjects, which are of images," he says. "First I will haps more tuned to man, being
largely landscapes rather than works of discover and explore a strong location, famous, for example, for his portraits
man, ancient or modern, begins with sizing up its elements, getting a feel for of Indians and their habitats. Josef pre-
the study of topographic and relief its best potential. Then later, at a fers full lighting which, while it de-
maps. Muench is enough of a lay geol- favorable hour of the day or time of the tails, also tends to flatten the images,
ogist to accurately predict features he season, I will return and go to work. I whereas David, as we've noted, seeks
could expect by interpreting contour spend much time planning and unplan- deeper, more resonant tones. Both,
lines and elevations in relation to other ning the events of my personal life to though, return time and again to pho-
knowns such as climate, fault lines, fit into an exacting pattern of tograph the same areas that David first
precipitation and winds. He does not photographing in the field—to fit into saw as a child carrying his father's
restrict his exploration to parks, monu- both the annual and daily flow of equipment. The son to this day consid-
ments or other dedicated land, al- nature. An unusual summer rain, an ers those early travels of vital impor-
though he admits that the most photo- unexpected wind, a spring especially tance to his career, despite an initial
genic terrain is usually found within rich in wildflowers, a fall of particular- reluctance to follow the father's profes-
those boundaries. sion. He resisted and, once resigned,
First there is exploration, mainly by he made it a point to follow no one,
four-wheel drive, to determine poten- "Mysterious, bold, stark and even to not more than glancing at other
tial. If promising, he returns, often- monumental forms — photographers' published works.
times gaining final access on foot, David Muench's favorite subject is
having already decided the season mountains, canyons, valleys, the boojum tree, or cirio, that whimsi-
and times of day that are best for hills and plains — are what cal woody plant that grows only across
photography. He usually works from particularly inspire and a narrow belt of central Baja California
sunrise to eight or nine in the morning and in a small patch on the Sonora
and then again in the early evening, motivate my directions, both mainland. Boojums challenge a photog-
traveling or searching during the rest consciously and rapher for, though sometimes as much
of the daylight hours. Exceptions unconsciously." as 60 feet tall, they bear an odd like-
would be caused by storms, photo- ness to disproportioned, carrot-topped
graphing backlands,which must be cap- humans. Then in order come sand pat-
tured at their convenience, or those ly heightened color— these are the terns and rock strata. Muench has no
soft, even, gray days that are so ideal kind of wild rhythms and events I try interest in current subjects, and not
for photography in canyons. to plan myself into." much in such nostalgia as ghost towns.
Equipment is all-important in where In practice, Muench has seen his His whole design is manless, man
access is difficult. One does not, time in the field dwindle from two- apart, unless man's presence in the pic-
through carelessness, invite a time- thirds to maybe one-half of his total ture lends to space and is thus appro-
wasting return. Muench favors his 4x5 working hours. He spends the other priate.
Linhoff Techniker as a field camera, half in his laboratory or in selling. That disregard for man can lead to
but carries along a 35mm as backup, Working with Professional Ektachrome neglect of the obvious. For example,
both with complete lens systems. This is exacting; you don't just send your Muench's dramatic picture of the Mes-
means maybe 25 pounds in a day pack, slides off to Eastman Kodak. And, of quite Flat Dunes in Death Valley
including 81 (yellow) series filters to course, though he loves it best, maga- (Desert, February 1981) shows a man
screen cyan and the often necessary zine work does not support the opera- clad in shorts and undershirt standing
polarizing filters to cut through haze. tion. Advertising photography is the on the scorching sand. He was there to
"I try very hard to avoid failure," name of the game. To obtain these cast a shadow, but that is not the way
muses Muench. "I know my equip- lucrative assignments, one must be a to dress for the desert, as numerous
ment and learn always from experi- skillful salesman, constantly canvassing readers pointed out.
ence, but there never seems to be a and romancing the agencies. However clad, it is true that man
solid visualization. Some little thing Supporting sales is an extensive li- adds little to nature. Muench's concern
will trick me every time. Sometimes I brary of "stock" photographs, main- is for his photographs to "communi-
must return." tained by Muench's wife, Bonnie, cate and champion the stark beauty
In the foreword to his photographic which must be meticulously catalogued, that is nature—its wildness, its op-
essay on Colorado, published by as most individual scenes are shot from posites. We need to relate to a sense of
Graphic Arts Center, Muench writes: / various angles and nuances of lighting place and time, to our truth."
am happiest when working in the field and exposure. Usage is carefully "I like to feel," he says, "that my
and especially in wild places. The further logged, as one magazine doesn't wish work will lend something toward real-
back I hike, the more the excitement and to inadvertently print the exact izing where we, as humans, are, a shar-
the greater the demand. Mysterious, bold, duplicate of a picture already published pening of our vision, a quickened
stark and monumental forms—moun- by another. Also, of course, magazine awareness of the natural world. I've
sales are marginally profitable unless dedicated the rest of my life to this
Photography in the Grand Canyon there can be multiple usage of at least pursuit. I could use a few more life-
(facing page) is always arduous and some of the scenes. times to accomplish all I have felt and
sometimes dangerous. Although the differences in their seen." gj
DESERT 59
GEORGE W.
VAN TASSEL
and His Anti-Gravity
Time Machine
by Rosemary Evans
Photography by Jim Cronkite

T HERE IS a strange rock in the


California desert about 16 miles
north of Highway 62, between
Yucca Valley and Joshua Tree on a well-
graded dirt road. It is estimated to weigh
more than the'Los Angeles City Hall; in
fact, some authorities claim it is the larg-
est "boulder" anywhere in the world.
And, like a glacier, more of it lies under
the ground than above.
Even stranger is its history; specifically,
the years between 1929 and 1942 when
an eccentric German immigrant named
Frank Critzer called it home. Critzer had
carved with chisel and dynamite a three-
room cave in the giant rock, all of it be-
low ground level, and lived there alone,
snug beneath tons of granite towering
seven stories above the sunken entrance.
Though he fled to the desert by choice
from his job as a commercial fisherman flight engineer, but spent every spare mo- showed up on that fateful July day to
and, briefly, worked in a Los Angeles area ment probing the mysteries of what, prior investigate once again. This time it was
aircraft plant, Critzer was not really a re- to World War II, was considered the the allegation that Critzer had stolen
cluse. After he had fashioned his living remote, at best, possibility of manned gasoline, tools and dynamite.
quarters and furnished them with a de- space flight. And if round-trips by Stories differ as to what actually hap-
gree of luxury, he carefully graded the humans from earth were "remote," the pened when the deputies arrived at the
road to his rock, towing a scraper behind idea of visitations from elsewhere in space rock. Some say Critzer panicked when
his old Essex. He then created an airstrip drew little if any serious thought from he saw them and locked himself inside
on a nearby dry lake bed and pilots, see- scientists and engineers of the time, ex- his rock. Tear gas fired by the deputies
ing his windsock flying, dropped down cept from Van Tassel. was said to have triggered the explo-
and landed, first from curiosity and later The friendship between the two men sion of 200 pounds of dynamite that
because they found Critzer to be an excel- was deep, and Van Tassel was Critzer kept on hand for use in his
lent mechanic. shocked when it ended abruptly and mining operations. Another version has
He and his strange home in the giant tragically on July 25, 1942. It seemed it that the deputies actually got inside
rock also were popular with land-bound that the general war hysteria and fear the rock and questioned Critzer. When
neighbors, who packed picnic lunches and of all things German had caused Critz- they announced they were taking him
drove out to marvel at his ideas and ac- er's neighbors to suspect he was a spy, into Banning, it was alleged that he
complishments. Actually, however, Critz- communicating by radio directly from purposely touched off the dynamite
er was as uncommunicative as his rock, his rock to Adolf Hitler. The FBI did after barely allowing the deputies time
offering nothing, asking nothing and tell- investigate, but found nothing more to escape. In any case, Critzer was
ing nothing, except to his friend George suspicious than a harmless old man blown to bits, but not his rock or the
W. Van Tassel. with a German accent and an old, bat- hand-hewn home within it. This was
Van Tassel had gotten Critzer his job at tery-powered Kent radio which could tragic, for there was no evidence at any
the aircraft plant in El Segundo and when barely receive Jack Benny from Los time that Critzer was anything but in-
the latter quit, they visited together fre- Angeles, much less transmit coded nocent of all charges.
quently at the rock in the desert. Not messages to the Fatherland. Van Tassel mourned his friend while
much is known about Van Tassel's early Nevertheless, rumors started by the rock stood empty throughout the
career, except that he too was considered neighbors who forgot that Critzer had war years. In 1947, he leased 2,600
somewhat eccentric by his associates at built their roads and helped pipe water acres of government land, including
Douglas, Hughes Aircraft and Lockheed. to their homes persisted, and so three that part upon which the rock rested,
He was employed as a largely self-taught sheriff's deputies from Banning and moved in with his wife and three
60 MAY, 1981
The "Integratron" (far left,
background) was put together like
a jigsaw puzzle from non-metallic
pieces. The Giant Rock (left) is
thought to be the world's largest
boulder. It was lived in first by
Frank Critzer and then by the Van
Tassel family.

Details of its construction and pur-


pose are obscured by jargon passed on,
perhaps deliberately, by Van Tassel. It
is said to contain an "electrostatic,
magnetic generator with armatures
more than four times larger in
diameter than any others in existence."
On the outside, there is "a rotating
ring of silver spikes, designed to swirl
around the dome at great speed."
None of this makes much sense to en-
gineers trained in conventional sci-
young daughters. The rooms where he had seen an Unidentified Flying Ob- ences. But, nevertheless, it and an adja-
once had secretly helped Critzer devel- ject; unlike the many others who claim cent, smaller dome are expensive struc-
op a glass aircraft-engine crankshaft to have shared a similar experience, he tures, paid for by Van Tassel's Minis-
"stronger than steel" and formulae for did something about it. try of Universal Wisdom, whose
Teflon-like plastics years ahead of Du- At Giant Rock, as it now was named, members believe the "Generator" will
Pont now rang with children's laugh- Van Tassel hosted the first of a series work.
ter. Van Tassel installed a light plant of annual Flying Saucer Conventions Unfortunately, George Van Tassel
and the girls traveled all the way to which, at their peak, drew 15,000 peo- died in February, 1978, without com-
Twentynine Palms to attend school. It ple from all over the world. He found- pleting work on his machine. Unlike
was a normal desert family by any ed the "Ministry of Universal Wis- his friend Critzer, however, his work
standard, except that they lived in a dom, Religion and Science Merged," did not die with him. His associates,
rock. G.W. Van Tassel, Presiding Minister. led by his widow, Andrea, say they are
The Van Tassels could even be con- By 1-967 he had appeared on more than carrying on where Van Tassel left off
sidered gregarious. They built and 300 radio and TV shows. Among be- and claim the machine will soon be
operated a cafe to feed the campers lievers, he was the acknowledged lead- operational. To what purpose? No one
who parked on their land. The airstrip er. No one doubted his claim to have who will talk seems to have that an-
was still in use, and rock hunters had hosted visitors from outer space on sev- swer, unless they are those "visitors
permission to take home the semi-pre- eral occasions at his home inside Giant from outer space" whom Van Tassel
cious garnets, agate and jasper they Rock. claimed he hosted many years ago.
found scattered about. The more The ministry, guided by Van Tassel, The cafe is now abandoned. Mrs.
serious hobbyists could dig and maybe even built a church of sorts about two Van Tassel is reluctant to greet strang-
uncover ruby, amethyst and striated miles from the rock. Called the ers. Not many pilots use the airstrip to-
quartz specimens. It was an "in" place "Dome" by neighbors, it actually was day. But where else within a few
for desert buffs to spend weekends, but and is a technically remarkable and ex- hours' drive of Los Angeles would one
one morning in 1951 an event occurred pensive structure entirely pieced to- be more sure, some bright, moonlit
which led to much larger gatherings of gether from non-metallic materials. It night, of spotting a UFO?@
another kind of buff. is 38 feet high and 58 feet in diameter.
It changed Van Tassel's life. Accord- Unlike a church, however, no one ex-
TWENTY-NINE PALMS
ing to his story, a great airship passed cept its builders has ever been inside. 'GIANT MARINE BASK
i ROCK
over the mountains on the far side of A sign outside the formidable fence
the air strip. It seemed faster and larg- which surrounds it says:
er, maybe 400 feet in diameter, than
any aircraft known at that time to man. THE INTEGRATRON
At First, he kept his story to himself. An Electrostatic-Magnetic-Generator
Who would believe him? A prospector For Basic Research & Experience Into
who saw the same craft from eight LIFE & TIME & ENERGY
miles away would, and then the sight- From Intra Dimensional Concepts
ing was confirmed by another man just Conducted by College of
two miles away. George Van Tassel Universal Wisdom
DESERT 61
ILlnl,

BOOKS AND MAGAZINES FOOD AND RECIPES PROSPECTING


FOR SALE: Desert Magazines, Dec. 1937 to cur- SOURDOUGH FOR THE SOUL. Make yours. AUTOMATIC GOLDPANNER. Pan for Gold
rent 1981 - 20 binders. $350. S. Deighton, Box 7, Recipes too. Only $2 to P.B. Inc., Box G, Cima, the easy way. From under $600. For further infor-
Sun Valley, CA. Phone (213) 768-1050. CA 92323. mation write: Goldhound, 4078 Lincoln Blvd.,
Marina del Rey, CA 92091 (213) 306-2737.
FOR SALE: Collection of Arizona Highways dat-
ing back to 1943. For information write Leisa GEMS GARRETT METAL DETECTORS: Gold Pans,
Bronson, Apt. K-17, 900 E. Harrison Ave., SHAMROCK ROCK SHOP, 593 West La Dredges, Drywashers, Sluices, Books, Supplies.
Pomona, CA 91767. Cadena, Riverside, CA 92501 (714) 686-3956. Roadrunner Recovery & Supply. 83-731 Ave. 55,
Parallel to Riverside Freeway. Come in and Thermal, CA 92274 (714) 398-7114.
THE TACHE-YOKUTS, Indians of the San Joa- browse: jewelry mountings, chains, supplies, min-
quin Valley, Their Lives, Songs and Stories. 2nd erals, slabs, rough materials, equipment, black GOLD RECOVERY EQUIPMENT, all types,
ed. 1979. Printed. PB $8.50 HB $12.95 plus tax. lights, metal detectors, maps, rock and bottle see demonstration units in operation. Concentrat-
Ship $1. Cassette tape of 1940 Tache songs, $5. books. ors, amalgamators, small ball mills, free catalog.
Marjorie Cummins, 2064 Carter Way, Hanford, Sierra Mining & Mfg., 450 E. chick, El Centra,
CA 93230. Quantity discounts available. MAPS CA 92243. (714) 352-8060.
OLD STATE, Railroad, County maps, 70-110
BOOK OF EARTHQUAKES and Earthquake yrs. old. All states. Stamp for catalog. Northern TRY A DISHWASHER! Guaranteed to recover
Faults of California. $5. Map of Earthquake Map, Dept. DM, Dunnellon, FL 32630. minerals, gold. A hobby that pays for itself. Visa,
Faults of California, $5. Folded. $5.50 Rolled. Master Charge welcome. Write to Nick's Nugget,
Add 11% for tax and handling. Varna Enterprises, P.O. Box 1080, Fontana, CA 92335 (714)
P.O. Box 2216-A, Van Nuys, CA 91404. MISCELLANEOUS 822-2846.
WANTED: OLD INDIAN Trade Beads. Write
COSMETICS Knotts, Rt. 2, Box 311, Chico, CA 95926.
ALOE VERA Products. First Aide gel. Non- REAL ESTATE
surgicical face lift. Also complete line. Demonstra- PHOTOS WANTED: Editor seeks photographs NEED 1-2 COUPLES as permanent residents.
tions by appointment. ORGANIC DEPOT, of unique desert scenes. Imaginative compositions Lovely desert land, equidistant between St.
38138 Sixth St. East, Palmdale, CA 93550 or (805) encouraged. Color transparencies and b/w en- George, Utah-Mesquite, Nevada. We provide
273-3587. largements 8x10 or larger accepted. Enclose SASE trailer site, water, sewer. Phone, propane avail-
for return. P.O. Box 3067, Santa Cruz, CA 95062. able. No electricity, generator needed. We ask per-
EQUIPMENT manent residency; 3-5 years minimum. Our pur-
DRINKING WATER Trailers with/without INCORPORATE in tax-free Nevada! Details pose: to have resident on land. Information, write:
pumps. For rent or lease. Aquarius Water Equip- free. CANI-DM, Box 2064, Carson City, NV Smith, Box 667, Layton, UT 84041.
ment. Phone (714) 637-0078. 89701.
SEEDS AND PLANTS
BE FIRST in your area to raise Harrison Doyle's
"Orchid-Carnation" type morning glories. Eight-
Y U U R AlJ could be run on this page at modest cost — color mix packet $2.50. Instructions. Harrison
Doyle, P.O. Box 785, Vista, CA 92083.
only 75$ per word per issue (1 or 2 issues), 70$ per word per issue (3-5
issues), and only 65$ per word for the same ad in 6 consecutive issues. JOJOBA, 25 clean seeds, instructions, $2 prepaid.
We need copy on the 10th of the second month preceding issue. Indian Trail Nursery, Star Rte. 2, Box 75, Twen-
tynine Palms, CA 92277.

TO: Desert Magazine Trading Post RAISE YOUR OWN Golden Chia seed (Salive
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92261 Columbariae) $3 Pkt. Sufficient for four 50-foot
rows. Instructions. Golden Chia Seed Co., P.O.
Box 3261, Torrance, Ca 90510.
Here is my ad.
It is .words long (10 words/$7.50 minimum). JOJOBA SEEDS, 25 natural seeds with informa-
tion. $2. CONSUMER RESEARCH, P.O. Box
I want it to run in the _ issue(s). 756, Twentynine Palms, CA 92277.
Cost: words x _ .times x .$=$.
RATE
TREASURE
Enclose check or money order (U.S. funds) with order. TREASURE — Locate quarter mile away with ul-
trasensitive locator, brochure free. Research Pro-
COPY ducts, Box 270270-BUC, Tampa, FL 33688.

PIRATE TREASURE, coin reproductions, neck-


laces, wall plaques, bookends. Free folder. The
Treasure Galleon, P.O. Box 3552, Indialantic, FL
32903.

WESTERN ART
FOR SALE: NAVAJO Squash Blossoms, authen-
tic. "Wide Ruin" rugs, Kachinas, Santa Clara pot-
tery, Bear Claw pendants. Layaways. Brochure.
Name _ The Blue Wind, Box 13, Golden, CO 80401.
Address BEAUTIFUL OIL Paintings of the Southwest.
Write: Carolyn Mantor, PO.O. Box 1003, Kanab,
City .State. UT 84741.
Zip _ Telephone (_
KINGSLEY OSMUND HARRIS, Artist, See his
Examples: P.O. Box 1318 counts as three words: telephone numbers as two words. beautiful original realistic western paintings dis-
Abbreviations and zip codes are one word. played in Desert Magazine's Western Art Gallery,
74-425 Hwy. I l l , Palm Desert, CA 92261.
62 MAY, 1981
Discover the Caribbean
with the ships that
discovered the Caribbean.
The tall ships. Sleek sailing vessels out of another Join us in your barefeet,
age. Ships which were the prized bersonal bikinis, or shorts. Start off with
schooners of the millionaires Onassis, Vanderbilf your morning eye opening
and the Duke of Westminster. Bloody Mary or a hot steaming
Now, you can sail them through the mystical cup of coffee, and brace your-
Caribbean. To well-known islands as Nassau, self for a day unlike any on
Antigua and St. Maarten. And to places the 12 story earth. This is the sea.
oceanliners never touch. A special place of rainbows,
To magic islands with iridescent sunsets, living reefs,
names like Saba, Carriacoi, rainbow fish and pink and
Anegada. Bligh's breadfruit white sand beaches.
Now comes the night at
isle. Stevenson's Treasure' sea. The silence broken by the
Island. They are all hefe, throb of steel drums, merangue,
waiting to be
calypso, reggae, all under
discovered agai
an exotic Caribbean moon.
With unforgetta
beaches, forgortj This is a Windjammer adven-
forts, hushed ture like no other on earth.
volcanoes, Join our voyage for 6 or 14
picturesque glorious, uncomplicated days
towns and aboard the tall ships. You can
our island share for only $400. Send the
friends. coupon for your free 'Great
Adventure' booklet.
And get ready to put a lot
of living in your life.
Break bread with a great
bunch of guys and gals. Gorge
yourself with hearty home
cooked meals, washed down
with evening wine.

Cap'n Mike, Windjammer 'Barefoot' Cruises. P.O. Box 120, D e p t 1 7 2 1 , Miami Beach, Florida 33139
For Reservations Call TOLL FREE 1-800-327-2600
Send my free fall-color 'Great Adventure' Booklet

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