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mm

tagazine of the Great American Desert July 1982

Fantastic Flower Crop in California's Desert


The Man Who Found Peg Leg's Gold • Moving to 29
#alms • Walking White Sands • Ghostly Belmont

•HBiHBHHHH
ft

Class has a way of expressing


itself; a distinctive automobile,
an elegant woman's manner and
grace, a luxurious hotel. The
Maxim Hotel and Casino in Las
Vegas has charm and sophistica-
tion but at an affordable price.
The next time you visit Las Vegas, i
stay with class and enjoy
the classic style that is '
classically rr\i^\^i
Maxim.
HOTEL/CASINO
LAS VEGAS
reservations see your travel agent or call toll free 800-63'
The Cervidae Family
thanks you for
being careful with campfires

Only you can prevent forest fires.


I A Public Service of This Magazine &. The Advertising Counc
Magnificent
Scenic
Desert Posters

C. A creosote bush witnesses the dawn, with the moon


setting, over the dunes at Death Valley National
Monument in California—Jeff Gnass

$4 each
or three for $10
A. Light and shade contrast in the Mesquite flat dunes of Death Valley National
Monument in California.—David Muench Order Today!
For the first time, Desert magazine
selects the favorite from its wide selec-
tion of excellent photographs. They
have been enlarged to 24" x 36" and
reproduced on heavy poster paper.
You'll be proud to have them in your
home or office. And what a great gift
idea! Use the coupon below or the at-
tached card to order.
Desert Poster Offer,
2145 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109
These handsome posters are $4 each. Or you
may order any three and pay just $10 (Price
includes postage, sales tax and handling.)
B. An ocotillo blooms with the Kofa Mountains of Arizona in the background.
David Muench

Please send me of poster A (Please print)


of poster B
of poster C My Name_
Total at $4 each or
three for $10.
I enclose $
Address
check or M.O.
City _Zip.
Volume 45
No. 1 through 7
July 1982
The Magazine of the
Great American Desert

Features
54 California's Spring Wildflower Finale
Everyone agreed: It was Anza-Borrego's best show ever.

22 Walking White Sands


A footloose initiation to science, scenery . . . and sand.

66 Along the Indian Detours Trail


How tourists of the '20s saw the big, bad West.

52 Desert Monster
Prettily patterned but painfully poisonous . . . he's a Gila.

16 Arizona Bad Man


By 1899, "Blackjack" Ketchum's gun had 21 notches.
1
Departments
8 Editor's Notebook
12 Letters
14 Playing it Safe in the Desert
30 Ghost Town: Belmont
74 Moving to the Desert: 29 Palms
80 Calendar
82 The Roadrunner
The Cactus City Chronicle
36 45 Years Ago 48 Desert's People Photo
38 Southwest Cookbook Contest
49 Desert Library
39 Rockhound
50 Desert Photography
40 Introducing: Products for
the Desert
42 Treasure Hunting Lore On the cover: An Anza-Borrego
Galore: Peg Leg's Gold ocotillo. Read the story beginning on
page 54 for more wildflower
46 Trading Post information. Photo by Michael Vlassis. Page 22
JULY 1982/DESERT 5
12 VOLT - EVAPORATIVE
COOLING AT ITS FINEST
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• Longer Use Expectancy Jacqueline Shannon
WRITE OR CALL

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Peggy Fletcher
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See your local RV dealer. 'Cooling Capacity: 750 CFM (209) 295-7556
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Wayne P. Armstrong, Russ Leadabrand,
Albert D. Manchester, Michael Marsh, Rick
Mitchell, Susan Durr Nix, Marvin Patchen,

/fi\ caste!
James N. Price, Andrew Steuer III

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
RESORT*' HOTEL Dennis McFarland, David Muench,
Jack C. Whitt

SCIENCE ADVISOR
Karen Sausman,
Executive Director, Living Desert Reserve

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR
Terry Williams

SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER
Robert Gordon

CIRCULATION CONSULTANT
Paul Goldberg

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Elly Charon

ADVERTISING OFFICES
Desert Magazine
2145 Garnet Ave.
Get away to the other MEXICO Come to San Felipe, Baja
California, and enjoy a
San Diego, Calif. 92109
Phone: (714) 270-3741
120 air conditioned rooms fully carpeted, wonderful stay at
with telephone and bath. Coffee shop, PAID CIRCULATION AVERAGE
weekend discotheque, bar, swimming pool,
tennis and gift shop.
/8\ caste! Member
OVER 50,000
Audited Paid
Circulation
Information and Reservations:
Call your Travel Agent or: Mexican Hotels, Inc., 7488 La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla, CA 92038;
Tel. (714) 459-0251, California, Toll Free (800) 542-6078, Nationwide (800) 854-2026, FOUNDED 1937 by
Telex: 695444. RANDALL HENDERSON (1888 - 1970)
Desert Magazine (ISSN 0194-3405) is published monthly
by Lifespan Inc. Editorial and Business offices at 2145
Garnet Ave., San Diego, Calif. 92109, (714) 270-3741. En-
tered as second-class matter at San Diego, Calif, and addi-
tional offices. Single copies $2. Subscriptions for U.S.
possessions, Canada, and Mexico $15 per year. Add $5
per year in all other countries. Change of address notices,
I c o undelivered copies, and subscription orders are to be sent

en ~ » "3 = H TR

PLACE LABEL HERE


to Desert, Circulation Dept, 2145 Garnet Ave., San Diego,
Calif. 92109. Change of address — allow six weeks ad-
vance notice and include old as well as new address. Back
issues and current copies as available, $2 each postpaid.

1
u ro u
8 No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited contribu-
CD tions. Manuscripts and queries are not acknowledged or
returned unless accompanied by addressed return enve-
» 3< ° c lope with proper postage. Writers/Photographers
Guidelines free with self-addressed, stamped envelope.
be 0) _- Letters to Desert are assumed intended for publication and
£ CD ° D . - *" NEW: may be so used. Copyright © 1982 by Lifespan Inc. All
§ 8 81 f ~ rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part with-
3 g ES • * out written permission is prohibited. Member of Audit
Bureau of Circulations (ABC).
Zip POSTMASTER: Send Change of Address by form 3579 to
Desert Magazine, 2145 Garnet Ave., San Diego, Calif.
92109.

6 DESERT/JULY 1982
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Editor's Notebook

welcome
to the Great American Desert
by Jacqueline Shannon

For this, the first issue of the cellent recreation and travel, was directly responsible for the
"new" Desert, we want to talk low-density housing, sunny town's impressive growth,
about our editorial philosophy, weather, and growing employ- which far exceeded what had
the history of Desert Magazine, ment opportunities. In fact, the been expected. In 1940, there
the rapidly changing Southwest, lure of our region is so great for was only one shack on the land
and about you—our readers. We all of the rest of the country that that would eventually become
did a whole lot of soul searching people are moving or traveling Palm Desert. In 1968, there were
and research about all of those to the Southwest in record num- less than 8,000 people living
things before we made the bers. And the phenomenal pop- there. Four years later, the popu-
changes you'll see in this issue ulation growth set in motion in lation was estimated at close to
and the ones to come. And we'd the '70s is not going to let up in 30,000. Since then, even more
like to share some of that infor- the '80s or '90s. The Southwest is growth has occurred in the area.
mation with you so that you'll where the action is. Henderson started Desert for
get a better idea of where we are Put more statistically, the the desert lover, in part, and also
coming from. growth rate of our region is ex- to give those who misunder-
Our editorial philosophy is a pected to be double the 11 per- stood the desert an appreciation
simple one: Desert's purpose is cent growth rate projected for of a beautiful place. His editorial
to entertain, educate, and ex- the entire United States by 1990. content adhered to the idea that
plore with our readers the Typical in the region is Arizona. the desert was an excellent place
beauty, life, and culture of the The population of Arizona in the to travel, to learn to understand
Great American Desert. year 2012 is expected to be 2V2 yourself better, and to appreciate
The Great American Desert— times what it was in 1980. nature to a fuller extent. He
that's what they used to call the Desert Magazine has a unique stayed with the magazine until
arid regions of the Western history in the ever-growing, 1961 (after 1958, as an advisory
United States, the geographical rapidly changing Southwest. In editor), and those who followed
area that Desert covers. We are November 1937, Randall Hen- him tried to stay close to the
reviving that phrase because it derson established the magazine philosophy he followed.
represents to us all of that from a storefront operation in El But because the Great Ameri-
beauty, life, and culture, and all Centra, Calif. At the same time, can Desert has grown and
of the past, present, and poten- he began to acquire land in the changed, so must Desert
tial of the desert Southwest. area near Palm Springs known Magazine. Along with the long-
Potential is an exciting or as Palm Village and Palm Desert. time Desert reader and desert
frightening word, depending on With the help of his brothers and resident, we now also have to fill
your viewpoint. Nevertheless, other investors, he was able to the needs of a new and different
the potential of the Southwest acquire enough land to house breed of desert dweller. Hender-
obviously is no longer a secret. the magazine headquarters as son's ideas fit well with the old
In the past, if and when an East- well as to begin building struc- desert, with the desert he first
erner or Midwesterner contem- tures for the development of that encountered. But with the new
plated the Southwest, he or she area as a real city. He also desert, a new style had to be
would inevitably picture a for- negotiated with the U.S. Postal found. You are holding it in
bidding, desolate landscape Service to have a post office es- your hands.
filled only with rattlesnakes, tablished, promising that he You, our readers, are a very
cacti, tumbleweed, and ghost would give them enough busi- diverse group. Most of you visit
towns. Now, that same person is ness with the mailing of his the desert frequently—some,
becoming aware of an attractive magazine to make it feasible. every weekend. Many of you, of
environment that promises ex- By putting it on the map, he course, live there. And quite a
8 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Great
American
Desert

Our Great American Desert, stretching from Eastern Oregon to Western Texas, includes five deserts.
They are the Mojave, Great Basin, Painted, Chihuahuan, and Sonoran Deserts.
JULY 1982/DESERT 9
few of you live thousands of
miles away and perhaps see the
desert only in these pages. But
the common bond is that all of
you love it.
The By letter, by reader survey, by
phone, and in person, you've
told us specifically what you love
Ardeidae Family about the desert, and so we will
cover those things. Within our
thanks you pages, you'll see and read about
desert exploration, recreation,
travel, resorts, hot springs, folk-
for being careful lore, animal and plant life, and
desert photography. Other top-

with fire ics that interest you (and us) are


Southwest history, Western art
and artists, treasure hunting,
when you birdwatch. rockhounding, ghost towns,
desert cities, occupations, and
lifestyles, second homes in the
desert, and homes compatible
with the desert environment.
We'll also discuss contemporary
and controversial desert topics.
And while the vast majority of
our coverage will be within the
borders of our Great American
Desert map, we'll also occasion-
ally take you to a desert in a for-
eign country to compare it with
the ones we all know best.
Naturally, you won't find all of
that in each issue. To do that,
we'd have to be the size of a
Sears catalog. But over the
course of a few months, we
promise you'll get a healthy taste
of each.
Finally, please: Keep those
cards and letters coming. We
really want to know what you
think of Desert.
Some things never change.
The way Randall Henderson
ended his first Desert editor's
column 45 years ago is as true
today as it was in 1937. So I'll let
him end this for me:
"We would like to feel that
these pages will impart to their,
readers some of the courage, the
tolerance, and the friendliness of
our desert; that this issue and
every issue will be the cool
spring of water at the end of the
Only you can prevent forest fires. hard day's trek; and that you will
I A Public Service of This Magazine &. The Advertising Council
go with us along the desert trail
and find the journey worth-
while." •
10 DESERT/JULY 1982
White's First Annual
Open Championship Treasure Hunt!

3 * *
A MISTER! GRAND PRIZE WORTH OP TO 110,000! PLUS CASE • GOLD • SILVER • A TREASURE
HUNTING BREAM TRIP • RECREATION EQUIPMENT • THING EQUIPMENT • TROPHIES ft PLAQUES

• 11 Major Hunts, includ-


ing a $10,000 Finders
Keepers Event • TH'ing
Activities • Bar-be-que •
Country Entertainment •
Square Dancing • Horse-
back Riding • Hay Rides
• Swap Meets • Metal
Detecting Exhibits •
Seminars • Displays •
Demonstrations • Motel
Accommodations • Con-
cesBions • Day Parking •
Spaces Available for Self - REAL
Contained Trailers • DETECTING
Perfect Family Vacation
Activities • Disneyland IH;NOI\STU\TI
20 Miles • Knott's Berry,
Farm 16 Miles • Univei
sal Studios 31 Miles
Queen Mary 36 Miles
Close to Hollywood and
the Stars

MEET THE FATHER OF MODERN ELECTRONIC TREASURE HUNTING •&

No firearms will be allowed • Pets will be confined to the


at the Equestrian Hills Complex parking/camping areas only

uso, HUT o n BEiomee TB-ERS i n w i n EXPERTS, FOE FII, FUZES US {REST MIIFUIOISIIF, T I i o n HIT TO MISS TIISI

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON WHITE'S TREASURE HUNT CONTACT: White's Treasure Hunt Committee
1011 Pleasant Valley Rd., Sweet Home, OR 97386
REGISTRATION FORMS WILL BE MAILED TO YOU!
Letters
Cactus City revisited this and every issue from now on. about a particular desert area.
Greatly miss the "Cactus City We've changed the name to the And although I am quite familiar
Clarion." It gave the extra touch "Cactus City Chronicle," but we feel with the area and have ideas and
of herbs and seasonings to the that you'll enjoy this expanded pictures for such an article, I
magazine. Unless one subscribes section as much — if not more — don't know how to go about
to all of those newspapers, one than the old "Clarion." Besides the getting it published.
doesn't know the fascinating news you miss so much, we've added I am hoping you can send me
things happening in those desert Desert nostalgia, photography, information as to how to get it
communities. I think other long, books, treasure hunting, and more. published.
long-time Desert subscribers will We'd love to hear what readers think David Titmarsy
feel the same way. Please of the new "Chronicle." — Ed.
reconsider. Those interested in submitting
J.W. Anderson articles or photos for our
Whittier, Calif. Contributing to Desert consideration should send a
I am a new subscriber stamped, self-addressed envelope to
It is back . . . and it will appear in interested in writing an article Desert, 2245 Garnet Ave., San

One of the Great


of the
In the midst of the awesome beauty of .,-
Death Valley, there flourishes an
elegant oasis called Furnace Creek. In the
lush, romantic style more than reminiscent of
the great European resorts, it offers a complete
resort experience. Fine golf, swimming in
spring-fed pools, horseback riding, tennis,
and just relaxing, as found in many resorts.
But here at Furnace Creek there's more.

FURNACE-CREEK-INN
12 DESERT/JULY 1982
Diego, Calif. 92109. Include a note readers can get how-to-advertise feelings for every sprig of desert
requesting our "Guidelines for information in the classified section vegetation. What a lesson!
Writers and Photographers." These of the "Chronicle." — Ed. Surely I was helping nature, I
brand-new guidelines will tell you had reasoned, by hurrying the
everything you need to know. — Ed. decomposition of the deceased
On kicking cacti organic matter.
For many years I've been a So, today, whenever I want to
Pen pal possibilities desert explorer, and whenever I plant cactus seeds, or any other
I am greatly interested in found a dead cactus I would kick kind for that matter, I look for a
corresponding with readers of it — if it wasn't a threat to self- dead cactus to sow them in. I
your magazine who actually live injury. Then I would stamp on it even had to learn that to pick up
their lives in the desert. . . the and kick it still more till I was the dead plant, in order to place
Southern California deserts in satisfied I had pulverized it as the seeds, was to destroy the
particular. Is there any chance much as possible. This I did for root anchorage of any seedlings.
your magazine could help bring the first 20 years — before I What better protection could be
the desert I love closer to me by became an avid amateur found for both seeds and tender
your readers? botanist, before I developed an seedlings while the dead cactus
John Hall urge to examine more intricately shell disintegrates over the
Kirkland, Wash. every piece of flora underfoot. years. Some cacti, such as our
But in a more recent year I California Sclerocactus
We have a "Personal" section in observed one day that seedling polyancistrus, require five years,
our "Chronicle" in which readers plants sometimes sprouted in I estimate, to grow to a mere
can advertise for pen pals, hiking the protection of the old dead nine-millimeter diameter.
partners, and other personal spine shell. Suddenly, in Bob Lahmeyer
contacts. Don't be surprised when remorse, I wondered how many Fallbrook, Calif.
you see John Hall's advertisement in new seedlings I had killed in my
this issue: We asked him if he thoughtless though Send letters to Desert,2145
wanted to become our first unintentional devastation, for I Garnet Ave., San Diego, Calif.
"Personal" advertiser. Other have none but the warmest 92109. •

Desert Civilizations
World

AND • R ANCH RESORT


I
77 IT /': ' li l! l".

JULY 1982 /DESERT 13


Playing it Safe in the Desert

Things to know before


you go to ensure that you'll get back

When you're stranded


By Jacqueline Shannon

It doesn't matter if you're


planning a two-week camping
trip in a van, a weekend of
four-wheeling, or just a
three-hour sightseeing drive.
The desert can be a killer if
you're not prepared for that
ultimate desert emergency:
Being stranded out there in your
vehicle with no help in sight.
You can greatly increase your
chances of being found by
following seven suggestions
provided by the Automobile
Club of Southern California, the
Office of Disaster Preparedness
(ODP), and the California
Highway Patrol (CHP).
The first three suggestions
should be taken before you ever
leave home.
1. Bring plenty of extra
drinking water.
2. Give someone at home
your itinerary. Tell that person
where you're headed and when
you expect to be back. And give
him or her your vehicle's license
number. The CHP says that this
can be just as essential to them, i-.-v •
when they're searching for a importantly — stay in the shade. night. Another method is to
vehicle, as the make, model, and 6. Stay with your vehicle. spell out "HELP" with rocks or
color. People are usually making a big anything that might be visible
3. Pack a survival kit in your mistake when they leave their from the air. Or, if you're not in
vehicle. Besides extra water, the cars to "walk for help." Your car a fire hazard area, you can use
ODP recommends that you have provides shade, the horn can be gas, oil, or your spare tire (let the
at least the following items: heard over long distances, and air out first) for a smoke signal to
concentrated food, matches, a the lights can be seen at night. attract attention.
small shovel, a good jack, basic It's much easier to find an auto 8. Finally, have faith. "There
vehicle repair tools, a blanket, than a person on foot. is a correlation between faith,
and leather gloves. 7. Devise a method for maintenance of courage, and the
4. Keep your gas tank full. signaling for help. You can use a control of fear," says the ODP.
5. When stranded in a hot, mirror or polished surface to "Many search and rescue units
arid region, avoid unnecessary reflect sunlight in daytime and a will be looking for you as soon as
exertion, and — most flashlight, headlights, or flares at you're missed." •

14 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Old File Funnies

From Desert, January 1965.

'Why, that's my first name, Lady. I'm Japan Jicarillo!"


From Desert, February 1965.
WANTED

DEAD On ALIVE
TOM KETCHUM
Alias "Blackjack" and "Bishop

BEWARE: Ketchum is 6 feet tall and has dark brown hair and eyes.
He is wanted for robbery, theft, burglary, assault, train robbery, horse stealing,
bank robbery, and 21 MURDERS in the states of Arizona and New Mexico!
He should be considered armed and extremely dangerous.

CONTACT SHERIFF JOHNNY MUNDS, YAVAPAI COUNTY, ARIZONA

16 DESERT /JULY 1982


ARIZONA
BAD MAN By John L. Parker

A t one time in the


Southwest it seemed the
bad men outnumbered
the good. There was a
continuous string of
month and board was not for
them. Perhaps a realization of
how remarkably few turns of the
cards could wipe such a sum
from the pocket helped
carry, including the postal
receipts and the contents of the
store safe.
After the discovery, no great
calamity at the worst, Herzstien
desperadoes on the loose many a cowpoke make up his exercised remarkably bad
ranging from outright outlaws to mind. judgment for a cautious
minor hired gunslingers who Black Jack was working for the businessman. He organized a
switched so rapidly from one Bell Cattle Company — a New posse consisting of himself and
side of the law to another that Mexico spread so vast its limits two Mexicans and took off after
they defy classification. were mostly defined by the the early risers. Perhaps he just
Worth more than passing distance roamed by longhorns couldn't imagine two inoffensive
mention as an all-around bad wearing the Bell brand — when boys like Tom and Sam, whom
guy for his day or any other day he and his brother Sam decided he had known for so long,
was Tom Ketchum, who died to change occupations. And like turning killer. Or maybe it was
"Black Jack." Some said he got most changes in that wild and the sight of the boys devouring
the nickname because of his violent country, the change was some of the unpaid-for
looks, but it was more likely made instantly. perishables from his store that
because of his deeds. Like many They went bad. rattled him.
others who stained their trails The day they quit the Bell — in Whatever the cause, he made
with blood by choice, Ketchum the late 1870s — the boys headed one final error in his estimate of
started out as a footloose south. That night, in time for the two men, and it was period
cowboy. He had been orphaned supper, they hit a familiar wide for Levi Herzstien. He and the
at six and under the somewhat spot in the road known as the two compadres galloped up to the
lackadaisical care of an older Liberty Store and post office. As Ketchums as they sat on a shady
brother, Sam. was his custom, the storekeeper, bank eating lunch and, without
History does not reveal what Levi Herzstien, let them bunk in even bothering to draw a gun,
caused Black Jack, Sam, and an old warehouse next to the demanded their immediate
others to leave the cow business store. The next morning surrender. The two cowboys of
for crime. We have no Herzstien found the boys had yesterday came up shooting;
explanations as to why punchers left during the night and taken Black Jack with a thirty-thirty,
frequently decided that $30 a everything loose they could Sam with a revolver.

JULY 1982/DESERT 17
Herzstien and one of the cowhand to travel." It seems that
Mexicans were killed instantly. in St. George, Utah, Black Jack
NORTHLAND The other looked dead to the — who was six feet tall, darkly
PRESS Ketchums and they rode away
without rifling the bodies, a little
handsome, and of quiet
demeanor — had become very
Southwestern Symbol of Fine Books
detail they did not overlook in much the ladies' man. For
later shootings. awhile he had plenty of
The wounded man, with a spending money from the late
hard-nosed .30-caliber bullet cattleman's herd and lots of time
through his middle, got up and to spend it. His activities as a
rode nearly 20 miles to sound the gallant earned him the nickname
alarm and lived to tell the tale. "Bishop."
The alarm was sounded loud This pleasant interlude in
enough, but it was nearly 20 Ketchum's busy life of crime
years before justice — in the came to an end abruptly when
NUDES AND FOODS: Gorman Goes
Gourmet edited by Virginia Dooley. A form of a maguay rope — was the husband of one of the ladies
personal compilation of recipes and able to deal firmly with Black — whose admiration for the tall,
anecdotes from New Mexico's own R. C. Jack, and by that time the first handsome desperado was
Gorman. The book contains 20 color re- killings were of little matter. ardent, if indiscreet — came
productions of Gorman's finest draw-
ings and lithographs of nudes as well as There would be some 19 more home unexpectedly. Black Jack
recipes gathered from his friends and murders to add to those first departed via a window without
family. A perfect gift for yourself or two. Black Jack kept a faithful bothering to lift the sash. There
others. Spiral bound $14.95 record, delicately carving small being nothing handy to speed
notches on the handle of the gun his departure except for the
at his hip. returned husband's bicycle,
Lawmen who sought him in Black Jack took off on it and was
five states declared that most of seen in St. George no more.
the notches were made with a Tap Duncan, an irascible man
.30-30 and preferably at some in the best of humor, was a bit
distance. All three of the men in mortified when he caught Black
this first shooting were hit with a Jack trading the bicycle for a
.30-30. Sam might just as well horse. He pointed out the
have fired in the air. continuation of the trail to the
Noted CAA artist Grant Speed has cre- outlaw and suggested that he
ated "Keepin' an Eye on the Riders" After the New Mexico
especially for Northland Press. This escapade, the boys circled north take it, on the bicycle. The
eleven-inch-high bronze sculpture is ac- and Black Jack swung a wide suggestion was too pointed to be
companied by a specially bound copy of loop as far up as Montana. In ignored, or at least the accuracy
Ross Santee's Wranglers and Rounders. of the sights on the Sharp's
This edition is limited to one hundred. Colorado he and some others
Price: $1,500.00 ambushed a stagecoach on the buffalo gun that Tap kept beaded
Santa Fe Trail and killed the on Black Jack caused him to get
armed guard. In Montana they going in a hurry.
helped a cattleman drive a herd Ketchum continued south,
•. - . of prime steers south from and for several years he
•is' • i;
Henry's Lake to loading pens on headquartered with a gang near
the Union Pacific in Idaho. Duncan, Ariz. The gang was

1 1 I'

NEW MEXICO'S BEST GHOST


Mil 11; l

TOWNS: A Practical Guide by Philip


The steers arrived at the pens
safe and sound, but the owner
got permanently lost somewhere
along the way. No trace of him
was ever found, and Black Jack
soon headed by Black Jack, who
had long since parted with his
brother Sam. (Sam reformed,
and later died respectably in
bed.) He decided the gang
Varney. From the author of Arizona's Best was in Utah spending the money should specialize, and specialize
Ghost Towns comes another straightfor- from the sale of the animals they did. While they were
ward, up-to-date guide. Covering more willing to commit any crime in
than eighty sites, this book is both an before the change in ownership
informative resource and a pleasurable was noticed. the book, they tried to work a
visual experience. Black Jack first appeared in solid source of dependable
Softcover $12.95 Hardcover $19.95
Arizona on a bicycle at the Tap income for those lean periods
Northland Press Duncan ranch near the Colorado that occur in criminal activities as
P. O. Box N, Flagstaff, AZ 86002 across the line from Utah. It was, well as in normal business. Their
(602) 774-5251 rainy-day — or perhaps it
as Tap Duncan said, "the devil of
a way for a self-respecting should be called rainy-night —
18 DESERT/JULY 1982
activity was horse stealing. from the store and onto the Desert lovers rejoice—
It was, as Black Jack said later street, colliding with a Captain "Trees & Shrubs" is back!
while meditating in the carcel at Boyd who had left the store a
Old Santa Fe, downright few minutes earlier and was
amazing how many people you hurrying back to investigate the
could rile up by stealing a horse. shots. There is confusion about
Such occasions called for a whether Boyd was shot in the
hurried change of scenery and leg or merely kicked and left
occupation. lying on the ground. In any case,
On one such occasion, when he crawled into the store and
the gang found it necessary to found the two men dead.
split up for a time, Black Jack Black Jack had left his horse
went to Nogales, Ariz., on the tied to a tree several yards from
Mexican border. He robbed the the store and was able to get
bank on the American side and mounted and headed for the
galloped eastward across the safety of the mountains along
Patagonia Mountains, pursued the Arizona-New Mexico border. Trees and Shrubs of
by Nogales' Sheriff Fly and a Within a few hours, Frank The Southwestern Deserts
posse. After killing one of the Wingfield — a relative of the 3rd edition, revised & expanded
posse, he eluded them in murdered youth — and a group by Lyman Benson & Robert A. Darrow
Skeleton Canyon. His horse of valley ranchers attempted to
gave out in Wild Cat Canyon follow the trail of the outlaw and The wait is over! The long-valued reference
is back, and now it's bigger and better than
at the southern tip of the scoured the hills and mountain ever. More than 400 photos and drawings,
Chiricahuas and he buried the country east of the camp. plus 250 maps, help you locate and identify
loot from the bank — most of it Johnny Munds, the Yavapai some 500 desert plants. Nearly 100 color
plates capture the beauty of the desert in full
gold and silver — somewhere in County sheriff, arrived from bloom. You don't have to be an expert to use
the canyon. (To his death, he Prescott the following day and it, but experts agree it's the most authorita-
never revealed the location.) headed a posse of 20 men, tive volume of its kind! 416 pages, 9 x 12
double-column format, clothbound, $49.50.
His welcome had been worn including an Indian tracker, Bill
pretty thin in most parts of the Head. It was a chase Munds
often mentioned in later years. Also New!
territory by the time Black Jack Discovering
{he Desert
pulled one final deal that Long and fruitless, it ended at
aroused the citizens of Arizona. Wild Horse Springs in New
Discovering
Short of money again, he Mexico after the wily outlaw had the Desert
learned that the ranchers around taken a long lead. Two horse-
the Camp Verde store on the stealing members of Black Jack's by William G.
gang were captured by the McGinnies
banks of Verde River were in the
habit of depositing sizable sums posse, but only after they had
with the owners, Mack Rogers managed to sneak a fresh mount How can plant life survive, even flourish in
such a harsh environment as the desert?
and Clint Wingfield. Camp to Black Jack. This was the question that challenged re-
Verde was a rather isolated spot By the time Munds led his searchers at the Carnegie Desert Botanical
25 miles from the copper activity Laboratory, established at Tumamoc Hill
weary crew back to the adobe near Tucson in 1904. Now you can share in
at Jerome and 40 miles from store on the Verde where the discoveries of these first desert
Prescott, the Yavapai county Wingfield and Rogers had been explorers—and discover the desert's se-
seat. so wantonly and uselessly crets for yourself. 276 pages, clothbound
$21.95, paperbound $9.50.
Black Jack came into the store murdered, Arizona territorial
just at dark one summer evening officials had been spurred to Yes! Send Me
as the owners were closing. As action. A dead-or-alive reward • Trees & Shrubs $49.50+ $1.50 p&h
• Discovering the Desert $21.95 + $1 p&h
he came in the door, Rogers was of $1,750 was posted for Black • paperbound $9.50 + $1 p&h
walking to the rear room where Jack and John Munds was given • Check enclosed (AZ residents add 4% tax)
they kept the safe. At Black extradition papers to get Black Charge to my • Visa • MC Exp.
Jack's command, Rogers dashed Jack from New Mexico to
for the door. A single shot left Arizona. Signature.
him dying on the floor. Young Back into New Mexico went
Clint Wingfield stepped to the Munds and two deputies to take Name
store entrance from his seat on up Black Jack's trail at Wild Address .
the porch and Ketchum dropped Horse Springs. Here Munds
him with a bullet through the learned that the outlaw had City . State .ZIP
heart. stolen a horse and continued University of Arizona Press
In wild haste Black Jack raced north. Munds and his deputies Box 3698, Tucson, AZ 85722
JULY 1982 /DESERT 19
trailed Black Jack through 1,000 double-barreled shotgun and had come to have strong feelings
long miles of the wildest part of presented himself as an official about the popular sport of train
New Mexico, then into Texas, reception committee for any and robbery. And well they might! It
and down into Old Mexico. all bandits. had gotten so that regular
Munds crossed and crisscrossed As Black Jack came back passengers on the Denver & Fort
the Llano Estacado — that hot, toward the coaches, driving the Worth train never knew when
dry, waterless section of 40,000 engineer and fireman before the train stopped whether it was
square miles that bisects Texas, him, Harrington stepped to the a scheduled stop or merely a
New Mexico, and Oklahoma. It platform. Shooting around the pause to accommodate some
was a serpentine chase that came two trainmen, he blasted Black trigger-happy bandit.
to a blind end for Munds at the Jack with both barrels, hitting Train crews had blisters on
little plaza of Vequita on the Rio him in the arm. The blast their feet from walking back and
Grande, where all traces of the knocked Ketchum to the forth between the engine and
outlaw vanished in the dry fall ground, but before Harrington the rest of the train, due to the
air. Munds got in touch with could reload, the outlaw crawled merry habits of bandits, who
New Mexico authorities and under the train and fled in the usually ran the engine and
camped at Vequita to wait for brush along the tracks. express cars a few miles down
information. The trainmen did not hold up the line to give them time to rifle
Black Jack, flat broke as usual, the train schedule to follow the the express and mail. Besides,
pushed on north towards well-marked trail of blood, but passenger trains cluttering up
Clayton, N.M. Along with some the next day Harrington was the tracks raised the deuce with
other outlaws, Black Jack back bright and early riding with freight schedules.
decided to hold up the much- Sheriff Saturnino Pinard of Black Jack hadn't gotten
robbed Denver & Fort Worth Clayton, N.M., in the cab of a anything but a charge of
passenger train. switch engine. buckshot in this attempt, but he
The bandits arranged to meet When they pulled up at the and his gang had robbed the
near the whistle-stop of Folsom. scene of the attempted robbery, Denver & Fort Worth at least
But when Black Jack climbed who should be there to wave twice before. New Mexico
over the coal car and ordered the them down but Black Jack needed an outstanding example
engineer to stop the train, he Ketchum. His arm was hanging of what happened to malo
found himself alone. Deciding to by a few shreds of skin and hombres who regarded train
go through with the job and rob cloth, and he was so weak from robbing as a frivolous pastime
the train single-handedly, he the loss of blood that he was and here was a noted bad man
erred in stopping the train on a barely able to totter. Although right at hand. The temptation
curve: When he ordered the harmless in his present was too great.
fireman back to uncouple the condition, Black Jack was a So one sunny April day in
express cars so they could be pretty hot potato to handle 1899, in the Union County
pulled up the track and rifled, considering the number of his courtyard at Clayton, Black Jack,
there was not enough slack to gang members and lawless now a one-armed man, walked
open the couplings. friends still free around Clayton. with his hand lashed to his back
Meanwhile, an expressman Sheriff Pinard put an armed across those few steps from the
stuck his head out of the door of guard around him and rushed county jail to where they had
the express car and was shot in him to Santa Fe for safekeeping. built a high platform with the
the jaw for his trouble. In Santa Fe, they amputated his strong cross member 10 feet
Failing in his attempt to pull arm above the elbow. above.
the express cars away from the Sheriff John Munds, pacing At one minute to 12 noon
train and rifle them at his leisure, the plaza impatiently at Vequita, Sheriff Pinard asked him if he
Black Jack decided to rob the heard the news and rushed to had any final words. There have
passengers on the first coach and Santa Fe carrying both the been some attempts to put a
call it a day. reward money and the fine, bragging, devil-may-care
But on board this particular extradition papers. Governor speech in his mouth, but in the
train, however, was a conductor Otero and the officials at Santa memory of men who stood there
named Frank Harrington who Fe congratulated him warmly on on the platform with him, Black
had grown more than a little his indefatigable pursuit of Black Jack was a quiet, soft-spoken
tired of train robbers, and even Jack. It was, in fact, one of the man of few words. He had
wearier of being the butt of so longest jobs of trailing a man in nothing to say on this occasion.
many jokes about the frequency frontier history. Perhaps he remembered
with which his train had been But when it came to releasing another sunny noon years before
robbed. In consequence, Black Jack to the Arizona officer, when Herzstien and two others
Harrington had taken to toting a New Mexico balked! That state sprawled in the dust before him.D
20 DESERT/JULY 1982
on the Road

Early-American Graffiti
Dear Editor:
For decades, archaeologists
have pondered endlessly upon
the true meanings of the ancient
Indian petroglyphs found in this
country.
Recently, a crack team of
young American graffitiologists
was summoned to Northern
Arizona to try to decipher these
mysterious messages.
After several grueling hours of
research, equipped only with
two pencils and having to rely
on their years of personal
analysis and participation in this
field, they were finally able to
interpret these prehistoric
inscriptions and give us a
glimpse into the past. "No intelligent life here, Scotty. Beam us up!"
We hope you will enjoy
knowing that things have not
really changed all that much.
Sincerely,
Mitch Lange, Pat Lange, Kevin
McClung, and Jim Hammond
(who took the pictures)

Readers: Have you seen


any funny bumper stickers,
signs, or situations while
traveling in the desert?
Next time you do, snap a
picture for us — we may
print it and your name in
"On the Road." If we do,
we'll send you $5 as a
reward for being so
observant. Send your
submissions to "On the
Road," Desert, 2145 Garnet
Ave., San Diego, Calif.
92109. Submissions will not
be returned.
"Little Dove + Lame Elk 4-ever."
JULY 1982/DESERT 21
There are four different kinds of long, straight ridges. Barchans dune has a different movement
dunes at White Sands. The are shaped like a quarter-moon rate, and those rates vary from
embryonic dunes are dome- pointing ahead. And parabolic eight to 400 feet a year. The
shaped. Transverse dunes are dunes are U-shaped. Each type of younger the dune (embryonic

22 DESERT/JULY 1982
Walking
White
Sands
A first-hand initiation to
the science and scenery
of a natural wonder that's
almost 30,000 years old
Text and photos by Renee Rubin
and Michael Delesantro

S tanding on top of a
towering gypsum dune in
the heart of White Sands
National Monument in southern
New Mexico, we gaze upon a
vast openness. Stretching
toward the distant mountain
ranges are wave upon wave of
pure white sand. There are no
power lines, buildings, or other
• works of humans. There are not
even trees to break the pattern of
the undulating sand dunes.
Here, our spirits are free to soar.
Yet climbing down into the
interdunal areas, surrounded
on all sides by hills of
constantly moving sand, we feel
claustrophobic, as if the weight
of the sand above us might come
crashing down in a sudden
desert tidal wave. It is in these
interdunal areas, however, that
the true nature of the dune fields
unfolds. Plants and animals
dunes are the youngest) the faster
it moves. As the dunes move
across the monument, they
change to one of the other shapes.

JULY 1982/DESERT 23
M
Renee Rubin walks the dunes, struggle for survival as the Trudging up and out of the
which are located 90 miles from dunes, pushed slowly forward interdunal area, we struggle to
El Paso, Texas, and about 16 by the prevailing winds, the top of a dune. We wear
from Alamagordo, N.M. The advance to cover them. hiking boots to prevent the sand
soft, calming appearance of White We have visited White Sands from finding our feet, but even
Sands belies the major headlines before, as do thousands of their heavy tread provides little
others every month. But like traction in the sand. Frustration
that have been made in the sets in when for every step we
most of them we had been
general vicinity. On July 16, content to view the dunes from take forward, we seem to slip a
1945, the experimental atomic our car or from the few short half-step back.
bomb explosion occurred nearby. nature trails. Now we feel like But soon we fall into a rhythm
And on March 30,1982, the the early pioneers and explorers of slowly climbing the slippery
space shuttle Columbia landed at may have felt upon dunes and then joyfully racing
White Sands at the end of its encountering the imposing dune down, half-falling and half-
third and toughest test flight. fields: That we are about to strike flying into the interdunal areas.
out across a trackless wilderness. After a mile, we reach the
At the edge of the dunes many backcountry campground, the
plants have gained a temporary only area open for overnight
foothold. Water drains after visitors to White Sands National
infrequent summer rains and Monument. A sign reminds us
provides the extra moisture that water is available only at
required to allow hardy plants to monument headquarters about
push through the hardened 5V2 miles away. Our supply of
interdunal soil and begin the two gallons of water seems
dune stabilization process. In an adequate for our spring
otherwise barren landscape, overnight stay. But in summer,
their struggle seems to be a desert hikers should carry at
celebration of life against least one gallon of water per
all odds. person per day.
Our hike along the Hiking opportunities from the
backcountry access trail takes campsite abound. Access,
us past sand monuments or however, is limited at times
pedestals, marvelous wind- because of missile firings at
sculpted formations created by nearby White Sands Missile
roots of trees or large shrubs, Range. Visitors, therefore, must
like skunkbush sumac and check with the rangers at
cottonwoods, which extend their monument headquarters before
roots deep into the sand in the entering the backcountry.
search for water. The strong Our destination is the heart
desert wind has blown away the of the dunes where sand rules
surrounding sand to expose the supreme and plants quickly
roots and the sand trapped surrender to its movement.
around them. Even after the There are no marked trails, so
trees or shrubs die, the hardened we begin to plot our course
sand remains as a reminder of across the dunes with a
the power of the wind. Some of compass. We cannot depend on
these pedestals rise eight or 10 our tracks to lead us back
feet above the desert surface. because the winds pick up
The wind is the animating suddenly and quickly work their
force behind the shifting sands. magic, erasing all signs of
We have been here when gusts humans. Taking compass
of grit stung our faces as the bearings on distant landmarks,
sand was hurtled across the we plot our course relative to the
countryside. But now the air is mountain ranges surrounding
still and silent. The distant us; there are few other
calling of a desert sparrow is the landmarks in the dune fields and
only interruption. the large dunes all look alike.

JULY 1982/DESERT 25
The sands and vegetation are predators to spot. Over the to natural selection - the darker
home to many field mice and centuries, their natural colorings field mice and lizards were easier
lizards that have a distinct have changed to a white that to spot and to kill, leaving those
advantage: They're hard for matches the sands. This was due with lighter coloring to reproduce.

26 DESERT/JULY 1982
From the interdunal areas we
often see nothing in the distance
but the sky, and we have to
climb the nearest dune to take
our readings. The dunes provide
a challenging test of our
pathfinding skills.
Again, we feel a kinship with
travelers of an earlier age when
orienteering and pathfinding
were ways of life instead of
pleasant diversions during a
brief escape from the worries of
modern society. After leaving
the campground, we see no
human footprints except our
own. The isolation frightens us
at first, but at the same time
accentuates the exhilaration of
striking a new path across
unexplored territory.
As we trek deeper into the
vast dune fields, the early-
morning chill gives way to the
heat of the desert sun. We shed
our parkas. At the same time, we
shed our cares and open our
eyes and minds fully to
appreciate the scene around us.
Most of the rain falls here in
sudden summer rainstorms, so
the interdunal soil is still dry
during the spring. The parched
earth forms mosaic patterns on
the ground. But despite the
extremely dry conditions during
most of the year, many plants
grow in these desert areas.
Four-wing saltbush is a
common inhabitant of this
region. It thrives on alkaline soil
and its extensive root system can
search deep into the ground for
water. The soaptree yucca, the
New Mexico state flower, also is
excellently adapted to the sandy
habitat. The yucca's stem grows
quickly, keeping the top of the
plant above the surface of the
moving dunes. The leafless
Torrey ephedra has adapted by

JULY 1982/DESERT 27
The famous sands, which producing chlorophyll in its see the lizards who enjoy the
provide Rubin with a comfortable stem rather than in its leaves, summer heat.
napping spot, are about 35 miles thus conserving water by having We stop for lunch and rest in
long and 15 miles wide. At least less area for evaporation. the soft sand, which conforms to
62 species of plants live in the Because the pioneers made tea the contours of our backs, and
from this plant, its common we lazily watch wisps of high
dunes and the level flats between name is Mormon tea. Another clouds drift by. This is the life!
them. White Sands plant life common interdunal plant, An essential part of all of our
includes four species of mallows, rubber rabbitbush, derives its outdoor experiences is time
milkweed, morning glory, name from its sap, which spent doing absolutely nothing
mustard, Gilia, 13 species of contains latex rubber. Various except enjoying the peace and
aster, one true verbena, and animals feed on its stem and grandeur of nature.
several species of cacti. seeds. Hardy grasses also We could easily spend the rest
provide food for dune animals. of the afternoon on our sand
Although the desert does not beds, but we resume our hike
offer the variety of flora and toward the largest dunes. We
fauna found elsewhere, we are delight in deciphering the tales
fascinated by the manner in told by the tracks and other signs
which these few hardy plants we find in the desert. Wood rats
and animals survive in the dunes pruned the yuccas with their
despite the temperature sharp teeth. A kit fox left large
extremes, aridity, and moving tracks as he chased a pocket
sands. Some lizards and mice in mouse down a dune to its tiny
the monument, for example, hole beneath a bush. A horned
have evolved white skin and fur lark dug a little hole in the sand
to help them hide. It is too early where it found seeds, and then it
in the year, however, for us to walked off again in search of

28 DESERT/JULY 1982
more food. through the dunes. We reach our
As we walk toward the heart campsite before sunset.
•380
of the dunes, the plants become Cottonwood trees, the largest
more sparse and the dunes more trees in the dunes, offer us an
domineering. Some of the dunes anchor for our tent, the only one
rise 40 feet above the interdunal in the campsite that night. After
floor. From the top of the large setting up camp, we climb a
WHITE SANDS
dunes, one dune seems to melt nearby dune to watch the MISSILE RANGE
into the next, and the wind has sunset. There are no trees to (Not open to public)
shaped each into curves and block our view of the sky. To the
soft arcs. east the Sacramento Mountains
Several landmarks stand out turn red in the late afternoon
in the distance. While we sit in sun. The snow on Sierra Blanca
the hot sun, Sierra Blanca, the glistens in the alpenglow and the
tallest peak in southern New high thin clouds turn pink as the
Mexico, still wears its sparkling sun produces its last light before
snowcap. To the east is setting. It is a perfect ending to WHITE SANDS
Sacramento Peak Observatory our enjoyable day. J NATIONAL
MONUMENT
where scientists study the sun Because the white sand does
through clear mountain air. 54
not trap the heat, the
Squinting against the bright sun temperature falls quickly and
reflected off the white sand, forces us to return to our tent for
we can see the San Andres parkas. In the desert, and
Mountain peaks that mark the especially in the white dunes,
western sky. there are marked differences
The mountains are the source between day and night
of these gypsum sands, which temperatures. A monument
form the largest dunes of this ranger told us that even during
type in the United States. the summer, when daylight
The gypsum washes down the temperatures soar above 100
mountainsides into the Tularosa degrees, he had shivered in a
basin. About 30,000 years ago down sleeping bag at night. But
the basin filled with water, and at the moment we feel that our
gypsum sand dissolved in the noses and cheeks, which had
lake. Over the years, the climate been burned by the sun's totally fossilized, but other
changed and the wet basin dried reflection off the white sand, pieces are covered with just a
up, leaving the gypsum behind could warm the entire desert. thin layer of sand.
as selenite crystals. When Only a gentle breeze blows We explore the area
southwest winds broke up the and the old dried cottonwood surrounding the backcountry
crystals and blew the pure white leaves tap our tent. Although the campsite until the hot afternoon
particles northwest across the wind remains calm tonight, it sun reminds us that our water is
basin, the dunes were formed. had blown away two campers' running out. Just as the plants
If the area wasn't dry today tents earlier in the month. Later and animals of the desert are
there wouldn't be any dunes we take a short walk to view the limited by water supply, so too is
because gypsum dissolves in stars, beautiful in every corner of the length of our trip. We pack
water. Two small sources of the midnight heavens. up the gear and follow the rising
water in the basin — Lake We get up in time to see the and falling trail back.
Lucero and the alkali flats — sun rise over the Sacramento At the crest of a dune ridge we
continue to dissolve gypsum Mountains. In the early-morning take one final look across the
from the mountains and release sunlight, we notice huge waves of sand. After hiking in
it as crystals in the dry season. sandhill cranes migrating along those giant hills, we find it hard
The sun begins to sink lower the San Andres Mountains to to believe that some people still
in the sky and the dunes cast their northern breeding call this area a barren wasteland.
long shadows, making an almost grounds. Near the campsite we We have seen many things, but
endless pattern of black and discover mineralized roots and they are just a few of the
white. Reluctantly, we turn back stems from an old sand pedestal. marvelous secrets hidden in the
and finish our five-mile loop Some of the wood has become dunes of white sand. •

JULY 1982/DESERT 29
Ghost Town

Before dying, this central Nevada town begat a riot, a lynching, one of the state's biggest
mining booms, and an early state hero.

The Best of Belmont


Text and photos by James N. Price

Ghost town visitors are often . . . severe, but tolerable. Belmont in this way. Early
disappointed. I frequently hear Belmont's summers are strikes were made in the
the complaint today: "There's enjoyed by some two dozen Toquimas in 1864, and by 1865
just nothing left up there." And residents, most of whom the Silver Bend district was
often that's true, due to the "winter" in nearby Tonopah. . established with Belmont as its
effects of time, the elements, Andy Eason, whose older noisy, pulsating heart. In this
and, sometimes, vandalism in brothers went to school in year alone, some 1,500 people
old mining towns. Ah, but Belmont, has lived in the town came to a previously empty
fortunately there are still those every summer for more than 20 piece of Nevada desert to try
special places left where the years and told me that he their luck. And there were some
full romance of the West in wouldn't have it any other way. big strikes, virtually all silver.
its mining heyday lingers on, He owns the Belmont Bar, which Some ore was said to assay at
places where one can truly reopened in the 1960s. Operated $10,000 a ton, but the norm was
enjoy the past. Such a place by Richard Ashton, formerly of more like $100.
is one of my favorites — Las Vegas and now living in By 1867, Belmont had all the
Belmont, Nev. It is blessed nearby Manhattan, it's open accoutrements of a civilized
with a number of fascinating each weekend of the summer. existence. The main street was
mining-day ruins, easy The bar is a lively gathering spot lined with a bank, newspaper
access, a few very-much-alive on those weekends for locals and and telegraph offices, a music
residents, and one of the nicest visitors alike. Meanwhile, John hall, sawmills, a bakery, two
settings for a town that one Richardson and his family doctors, a drugstore, and Ernst
can imagine. "escaped" from Southern & Esser's, which stocked all
Belmont is nestled at an California about five years ago, other needed products. The
elevation of 7,000 feet in the bought a house in the middle of premier edition of the Silver Bend
northern end of one of Nevada's town, and are among the six Reporter on March 30,1867,
incomprehensibly large valleys year-round residents of stated that "the hills are
— the Ralston, an easy 40-mile Belmont. These lucky people beginning to blacken with
drive north from Tonopah. and a few others have the prospectors."
Belmont is ringed on three sides enviable "job" of living in Also in 1867 came one of
by the oft snow-clad peaks of the Belmont while helping to any mining town's greatest
Toquima range. Directly to the preserve its remnants of the sources of pride, stability, and
east, where most of the mines past. And what an intriguing importance: Belmont became the
were, is a view of the Monitor past it's had! seat of Nye County, stripping
Valley, so enormous that the title away from struggling
shadows from huge cumulus The history of Belmont lone. Because the officials of the
clouds appear like small In the boom-and-bust days of county, formed a scant three
footprints on the valley floor. On the West, each major boom town years earlier, had just built a
each visit, I savor the unlimited had an enormous influx of courthouse in lone, seven years
high-desert vistas, the bubbling prospectors, very few of whom elapsed before Belmont had its
natural spring in the middle of actually made money during own gorgeous red brick
town, the large green trees, and that boom. The disillusioned courthouse.
the abundance of clear air, all of ones headed for the "next hill," Belmont also became a major
which are part of the wonderful and thus new finds were made transportation center, with
sense of being there. Belmont's and new booms were created. stages serving such booming
summer climate is virtually Austin, one of Nevada's earliest Nevada cities as Austin, Luning,
ideal, and its winters are, well post-Comstock strikes, begat Wadsworth (near Carson City),
30 DESERT/JULY 1982
and Eureka. This latter ground. The exact number of With the beautiful Monitor
connection was especially residents at the peak is quoted Valley as a background, some of
important when the Eureka & anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000. the walls of Belmont's
Palisade Railroad began service In any case, Belmont was a Highbridge Ore Mill are still
to Eureka in 1875. Ore for bustling community for about 20 standing. The building was at
processing in Belmont's mills years. least three stories high, with an
was brought in from as far away Then the generous earth,
as Lida, more than 100 miles to seemingly unlimited in its interior the size of a large
the south. Much of Belmont's supply of metal, changed its gymnasium.
metal output went directly to the personality. It ceased to provide
mints in Carson City and San further riches, and Belmont's
Francisco. production was essentially
Belmont's peak population complete by 1885. Some $15
was reached in the 1870s. The million worth of silver, gold,
emergence of the White Pine lead, and mercury had been
district in the 1868-69 period taken from the slopes of the
drained Belmont's population Toquimas. The town declined
for a while but new rich strikes through the 1890s and had only
in 1873 put Belmont back on firm a handful of residents by 1900.
JULY 1982/DESERT 31
Tonopah began booming and disgrace to Belmont occurred in lawyer in town, to handle the
quickly whisked away the May 1874. Two young men few pieces of county business
county seat honors in 1903. named Charlie Mclntyre and during Andy's tenure. Johnson
There were attempted revivals in Jack Walker had come to was removed from office in the
1909 with the discovery of Belmont from Pennsylvania to election of 1896, but he'd
turquoise, and in the Teens try mining. Some references say decided he liked it in the
when the tailings were reworked they were union organizers. In courthouse and would not leave.
and processed in a small new any case, they managed to For nine days he sat at his desk,
mill. These ventures were not irritate a local citizen in a bar one admitting only trusted friends
profitable, however. The Silver night, which, in typical Western with food and whiskey. But he
Bend district's once-thriving style, led to a shoot-out and a finally gave in and went back to
heart has throbbed meekly and couple of injured bystanders. So his mules.
slowly since. the two men were put in jail. Johnson's replacement was
They escaped but were quickly also an uneducated rancher, but
The people of Belmont recaptured in a local mine where presumably one who smelled
The history of Belmont's they had hidden. Although they better. His name was Jim Butler
people is special and intriguing, were put in a more secure cell, and he lived on a ranch north of
too. Belmont was generally not some local citizens were not at all Belmont. If that name sounds
as lawless and certainly a good pleased by the young men's familiar, it should. He was the
deal more refined than most behavior and decided to do man who, while chasing one of
western mining towns, but there something about it. Breaking his mules on a prospecting trip,
were moments. Surely Belmont into the jail, the group bound up literally stumbled across the rich
had its share of robberies and the sheriff, proceeded to the lode that became Tonopah. Even
shoot-outs, but there were two men's cell, and promptly hung more amazing is that Butler's
especially shameful events in them. The group left a "301" tag assistant district attorney, Tasker
Belmont's past — a riot by mine on each — the symbol of L. Oddie, went on to become an
workers and the lynching of two Belmont's local vigilante important figure in Nye County,
young miners by a town committee. then governor of Nevada, and
vigilante group. The story would have ended finally a U.S. senator! He was a
The former event occurred in there except that a state hero.
April 1867. Large groups of Irish blood-and-guts version of this Meanwhile, in the early 1890s,
and Cornish miners had come to episode appeared in the San a daughter named Rose was
Belmont and they'd brought Francisco Chronicle, which said born to Mr. and Mrs. Goldbach,
their traditional rivalry with that not only had this horrible who lived on Barley Creek near
them. When it seemed that the deed taken place, but that the Belmont. By marriage she
Silver Bend Company was going bodies had also been riddled became Rose Walter and she has
to give preference to Cornish with bullet holes, thus spattering spent virtually her entire life
workers (who would work for blood all over the floors and living in or near Belmont. She
cheaper wages), a group of the ceiling of the jail. The sheriff went to school in a little adobe
Irish stormed the company office vigorously denied this story in a schoolhouse at the north end of
and challenged an agent named later Chronicle article, but he town, and then stayed on as one
Canfield. When he could not finally Succumbed to pressure of Belmont's few full-time
satisfy the group verbally, he from bloodthirsty visitors: He residents. She was, in fact, the
was strung up on a metal rail flung red paint around on the only year-round resident of
and carried around town from jail's walls so that "everyone can Belmont for many years; only
bar to bar. The miners grew be happy and we can have some recently did she sell out in
rowdier and more threatening peace around here!" Belmont and move to Tonopah.
until at one bar they Belmont's biggest and in some (The aforementioned Richardson
encountered Louis Bodrow, a ways most incredible people family now lives in her home.)
former marshal from Austin. He success story was its progression
informed the group they should of district attorneys in the The walking tour of Belmont
cease their actions. One of the declining days. In the early The setting, the history, and
group's leaders, Pat Dignon, 1890s, "Old Andy" Johnson, an the people all lead up to Belmont
spat in Bodrow's face and the uneducated, unkempt mule today: It's a wonderful collection
fight was on. Both Bodrow and rancher, was elected district of decaying buildings from the
Dignon were shot and killed, attorney as the result of a joke 1860s and '70s. Because Belmont
and numerous people were that backfired. Although he had water, wood, rock, and a
injured, but Canfield was saved knew nothing at all about the nearby deposit of clay, a kiln was
by friends. job, he engaged the talents of built for firing brick. Thus, many
The other major event of William Granger, a retired of Belmont's buildings and mills
32 DESERT/JULY 1982
The Nye County Courthouse, in
the foreground of this view south
down the Ralston Valley (left),
is now being restored by the state
of Nevada. Recently, a shiny new
white roof was installed and
plastic sheets were placed in the
previously gaunt window
housings to protect the building's
interior. The state has further
restoration plans for the
courthouse. Many Belmont locals
fear for the longevity of the
Cosmopolitan Music Hall
(below). Once the town's center
of culture, its sides are now
bulging, the roof is slowly
disappearing, and the building
may collapse soon.

JULY 1982/DESERT 33
were built of local brick and previously, is next on the right. I moved to nearby Manhattan. It
stone and have survived. Join have quaffed a few beers here still graces that town. All around
me on a tour starting from the and had a chance to meet the the perimeter of town are mine
south end of town (coming in "town folks." Although this is a remnants, walls and foundations
fromTonopah). newer building, there are some of dwellings, and all variety of
On the left is the enormous, good historical photos on the metal and glass pieces. In short,
square brick stack and walls. one can explore Belmont in as
foundations of the The west (left) side of the main much depth as one desires. I
Belmont-Monitor Mill. This mill street contains a row of period always find some new relic of
once contained 80 stamps, no buildings — some brick, some Belmont's past on each return
doubt inundating the valley day wood. These were offices, visit.
and night with the clatter of stores, and saloons. The final part of the tour is
prosperity. Across the street is one of the East Belmont, a short walk or
Toward town, a bit further on West's most photographed and drive over the hill from Rose's
the right, is the cemetery, haunting structures: the house. Beside the road is the
somewhat hidden in trees. It's Cosmopolitan Music Hall. The round brick stack and
fenced, reasonably hall was Belmont's cultural foundations of the 40-stamp
well-maintained, and contains a center and featured the likes of Combination Mill. The mill,
number of older headstones. Lotta Crabtree (one of the most which cost $225,000, was moved
The Belmont Bar, mentioned famous stage actresses of the "j from California in the late 1860s
19th century) and Fay Templeton by mule trains: 14 teams of 10
HWY. 376
to AUSTIN (75 mi.) (a child performer of the day) on mules each. I can believe
its stage. incredible stories like that only
To the west of the main street because there was no other
is Belmont's little spring. Its means of transportation at the
stream disappears into the time.
desert's dryness below town. Further down the hill and
Just beyond is Belmont's most about one-half bumpy mile off
prestigious building and my the road is the shell of the
all-time favorite ghost town Highbridge Mill. This building is
edifice: the Nye County one of the largest single ruins in
- - - D I R T , GRAVEL Courthouse. It's a beautiful any ghost town in the West.
SURFACE
PAVED ROADS
building, built entirely of local Inside are numerous footings for
brick and stone in 1874. The cost the large ore milling machinery.
HWY. 95
to LAS VEGAS
for construction was $3,400. This building and the views of
Each room, including the jail, the Monitor Valley below offer
Map of central Nevada showing attached to the rear of the excellent photographic
routes to Belmont. building, had a heater, and thus possibilities, as do many of
APPROX. SCALE MONITOR VALLEY
the courthouse sports a number Belmont's lovely old buildings.
1W=1mile of chimneys. I have thoroughly Belmont has been spared the
explored this fascinating relic. I normal mining camp maladies of
have surveyed the graffiti on the fires and floods. Because local
walls inside, some of which is building materials existed
more than 50 years old, and I nearby, much of Belmont was
have even ventured up creaky built of brick and thus remains.
D
staircases to the second floor and The town had a somewhat
Rows of
HIGH BRIDGE
MILL RUIN
to the gorgeous cupola atop the rowdy but quite civilized past.
Stores O I D COSMOPOLITAN building. The courthouse But through it all, the town's
Spring o %\ MUSIC HALL virtually talks of history and lovely setting and omnipotent
- • COURTHOUSE
nostalgia! Thanks to the state of
Nevada, the building's
scenery remains a primary
attraction. And I not only
restoration has begun. appreciate but envy Andy Eason
Back to the main street, on the and a few others who spend as
north end of town at the bend in much time as they can in
the road, is the sturdy brick Belmont — it's a pleasant place
house where Rose Walter lived to be. Visit Belmont, savor the
A
to TONOPAH (approx. 45 miles). for so many years. To the right feeling of being there, enjoy the
RALSTON VALLEY and up the hill was a quaint buildings, drink in the
wooden Catholic church, which, high-desert air. Belmont is a
Map for a tour of Belmont. after Belmont's demise, was special place. •
34 DESERT/JULY 1982
Milestones, Magic, Myths, and Miscellaneous of the Great American Desert July 1982

GOLD FEVER SWEEPS ARIZONA MOUNTAINS


BULLHEAD CITY, Ariz. — producer has begun explora- fore, he said. cials at Heckla Mining Corp.,
Gold fever among mining tory drilling near Oatman. The rush into the area was the largest producer of silver in
firms has led to a major claim- Nyal Niemuth, a geologist signaled when Freeport Explo- the country, said they recently
staking war in the historic and mineral resource specialist ration Co. staked nearly 250 discovered characteristics in
Oatman mining district in the for Arizona's Bureau of Mines, claims in the old San Francisco the Oatman district that make
Black Mountains near Bullhead said the reason for the rush Mining District in March 1980 them optimistic about chances
City. into Arizona's top gold-mining when gold prices were rising. of discovering the kind of
A major mill has begun pro- district is simple. Companies While many of the area's blind-ore bodies that made
duction in the area and the mine for gold in the places operators say they are mining Oatman a thriving city 50
United States' biggest silver where gold has been found be- only marginal gold ore, offi- years ago. —UPI

CACTUS CRUSHES ITS GUNMAN


PHOENIX, Ariz. — A 27- crushing Grundman, deputies PEG LEG STORIES -
year-old Phoenix man was
killed when the saguaro cactus
he shot fell on him, authori-
said. They also said Grundman
had already felled one of the
statuesque saguaro.
A PACK OF LIES
BORREGO SPRINGS, Calif. The contest is an annual trib-
ties said. Destruction of cacti is a mis- — A story about how the leg- ute to Peg Leg Smith, who
Maricopa County sheriff's demeanor under Arizona law. endary desert wanderer and legend says once found black
deputies said David M. Grundman and a friend, gold prospector Peg Leg Smith rocks in the Anza-Borrego des-
Grundman illegally firmed a Joseph Suchochi, were in a treated rattlesnake and taran- ert that later were proved to be
shotgun at least two times at a desert area north of here when tula bites won a Tarzana, gold. Smith spent his cache
27-foot cactus. the incident occurred, depu- Calif., man the top honors in and returned to the desert, but
The shots caused a 23-foot ties said. this year's recent Liars Con- was unable to find the vein
section of the cactus to fall, — Associated Press test here. again, according to legend.
Martin Bravin spun the tale (See a related story in this issue
LAGGING RV SALES GAINING the judges liked best from
among 15 storytellers — rang-
of Desert.)
This year, on a cold, windy
ON ROAD TO RECQVERY ing in age from 10 to about 70 evening, storytellers sat around
DETROIT — Their business And David J. Humphreys, — entered in the annual com- a desert bonfire for more than
still is far from fiscal fitness, president of the Recreation Ve- petition. two hours, telling new ver-
but recreational vehicle build- hicle Industry Association, Bravin told The Borrego Sun sions of how Peg Leg actually
ers say improved sales in 1981 called last year's performance that he was in Borrego Springs made his find and weaving
may signal a rebound from "a definite recovery." on vacation and read about the other tales of the desert.
what an industry spokesper- Dealers and manufacturers contest in the newspaper. He — The San Diego Evening
son calls "the disaster years." who weathered the 1979-80 said he made up his story dur- Tribune
Manufacturers of vehicles slump now are generally mak- ing the contest. and The Borrego Sun
such as motor homes and ing profits, industry officials
camping trailers shipped
239,100 RVs to dealers in 1981,
say. During those years, the
number of members in the
LET THE SHUTTLE
up 31.8 percent from 1980's RVIA dropped from about 200 BE YOUR GUIDE
181,400, according to industry to its current membership total PAINTED DESERT, Ariz. — "Here we are coming over
reports. RV output peaked in of 110, according to Summers. A few days before the space some of the beautiful sand
1972 when 582,900 were He estimates half the country's shuttle Columbia landed safely d e s e r t , " Lousma said as
shipped. dealers went out of business. at White Sands Missile Range the spacecraft flew over the
If the nation's economy im- One large manufacturer, in New Mexico, commander Painted Desert in Arizona.
proves this year, "we could be Champion Home Builders Co. Jack Lousma narrated a spec- "The colors are even more de-
into a boom situation," said of Dryden, Mich., had 14 RV tacular, 12-minute color TV scriptive and colorful from up
James B. Summers, executive plants in 1978. Today, it oper- travelogue of "America the here because you can see them
vice president of the Recreation ates only two. beautiful — from sea to shin- together. It is a very beautifully
Vehicle Dealers Association. —Associated Press ing sea." painted desert." — UPI

Cactus Cttg (Ei]xonidt JULY 1982/DESERT 35


ALL IN THE NAME
OF FRIENDSHIP
CHANDLER, Ariz. — A 30- 30-foot columns, each 54x36 From Desert of 1937:
foot sculpture of a saguaro cac- inches wide, that lean into each
tus was recently unveiled here other at angles of 50 and 12.5
at General Instrument Corp., a degrees. The structure causes a
computer parts manufacturer. visual feeling of falling — EL PASO,
Sculpted by well-known much the way a large water
tower will appear to fall due to
TEXAS -
Chicago sculptor Gene Hor- American farmers living
vath, the work is called the clouds behind. This illusion
is countered by the introduc- along the Rio Grande Valley
"Friendship." According to the have organized a vigilance
company, it was designed to tion of three columns of nega-
tive space that pierce the committee to protect their cot-
symbolize dissimilar but har- ton fields from raids by armed
monious relationships — like leaning columns, and thus
support them. The sculpture is Mexicans from across the bor-
the friendship between science der. According to their report,
and art, between business and constructed of 1/4-inch flat and
3/16-inch rolled stainless steel the Mexican thieves come
nature, between General In- across at night and steal bags of
strument and Arizona, and be- plate.
newly picked cotton which are
tween Horvath and Frank Among Horvath's other sig- sold to gins south of the line.
Hickey, the company's chair- nificant projects are a sculpture
man of the board. Horvath and for the American Heart Associ-
Hickey are long-time friends. ation and a bronze and steel
" F r i e n d s h i p " is 13,000
pounds and consists of two
sculpture for the University of
Illinois Medical School.
ADOBE HOME TYPIFIES
TRUE WESTERN DESIGN
Nearly every window in the design, faithfully representing
home of Mr. and Mrs. Will H. the early Hopi Indian pueblo
THE FASTEST CHECKS IN Minor near Yuma frames an type. No conflicting note is al-
THE WEST entirely different view of one of
the most beautiful and varied
lowed to mar the outside ef-
fect. Native desert shrubbery
KANAB, Utah — Learning After l e a r n i n g to write landscapes in the Southwest. and cacti are used exclusively,
the principles of banking in a checks, some decided to try to Not every home builder can with the exception of Iantana
high school class has proved a use them and were successful have a two-acre lot at the edge and a few other hardy shrubs
detriment to three high school . . . for a while. The checks of a mesa, 80 feet above fertile requiring irrigation — and, of
students here. were printed with "I Am Stu- Yuma Valley, and look out at course, a green lawn . . .
Two local banks, State Bank dent" in the place where the the panorama of the Colorado
name of the person owning the . . . Outside dimensions,
of Southern Utah and Zion's winding at the foot of Pilot not including the two-car ga-
First National Bank, have been account is found. The students Knob. But many have observed
in question took a check into a rage and guest house, are
teaching classes on banking at the good taste and forethought 65x47 feet. The Minor invest-
Kanab High School for about local business and cashed it which guided the Minors in
during a busy hour. The checks ment for home and landscap-
two weeks. The classes simu- planning their unique home. ing is over $15,000. Cost of
late as closely as possible the were made out properly and
signed "I Am Student." The five-room house is built house construction will vary,
setting up of a business and the according to location, between
banking needs that go with it, of adobe, plastered inside and
At this time, however, the out. It is definitely western in $8,000 and $10,000.
such as making deposits, set- students have been charged by
ting up books, and writing Kanab City Police.
checks. — Southern Utah News

MOVING Readers: We're looking


STATES for interesting, amusing,
hilarious, or strange des-
Allied Van Lines defines a
"magnet state" as one where at ert-related stories for this
least 55 percent of all house- page. Send us magazine
hold moves in a year involve and newspaper clippings
people moving into the state. — we'll pay you $5 for
Allied's 1981 migration survey each one we use. In case
lists 14 magnet states. Hawaii of duplicate submissions,
was No. 1 followed by Alaska, the contributor with the
Texas, and Arizona. The earliest postmark wins.
others: Arkansas, California, Mail your submissions to
Colorado, Florida, Georgia, News, Desert, 2145 Garnet
Louisiana, Nevada, North Ave., San Diego, Calif.
Carolina, Oregon, and Wash- 92109. Please include your
ington. Biggest losers: Michi- name and address and the
gan, Iowa, and North Dakota. source of your clipping.
— The Wall Street Journal Clippings will not be
returned.

36 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus Cttg Ctjrnmcle


JUST BETWEEN YOU AND ME
At Palm Springs petitions sometimes numbed man's the incorporation problem at
are being circulated prepar- appreciation for the really Palm Springs is really none of
atory to holding an election for worthwhile things. my business.
the incorporation of the town. Please do not construe this
Although I have no financial as a plea against incorporation
investment and only a limited of Palm Springs. I regard it as And now, for the infor- Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.
acquaintance in Palm Springs, miraculous that so many mem- mation of any and all desert
I am watching the progress of bers of the human family have writers — please do not send FOR THE UTMOST IN
this new movement with all been able to dwell together in me poems and stories about
the interest of a native of the that community for so long a horned toads that hop. These
Village. time without a local governing desert toads just don't travel
Perhaps my fears are un- agency. No doubt there are that way. They.really do not
founded, but I have been afraid many good reasons why Palm belong to the toad family any-
that the money-makers would Springs should be incorpo- way. And spell "Ocotillo"
crowd out the artists. Palm rated. without an "a."
Springs today is the realization I do hope very earnestly that -Randall Henderson
of a beautiful dream. It was a majority of the new city trus- Founder and first editor of Desert
founded and much of its plan- tees, if and when they are
ning has been done by those elected, will be men whose
men and women who find souls have not lost all of the
greater happiness in creative poetry with which the Divine
work than in the mere ac- Creator endowed them.
cumulating of money. And, having gotten that out
In recent years I have sensed of my system, I will admit that
the invasion of a new element
there — an element which
would take the charm and
prestige which creative genius
ANZA,
CALIFORNIA - <zndi/t£ new
has brought to Palm Springs
and barter these priceless
assets for gold.
I hope it doesn't happen.
Desert residents will be pro-
vided with a new route to the
Pacific Ocean if plans of civic
Chief
Money alone cannot create so leaders in Riverside and San • Superb, extra-fare, exclusive-
picturesque a community as Diego counties are successful ly first-class trains, streamlined
Palm Springs. Nor can mere in their plea for the construc- in stainless steel, presented by
dollars retain for that quaint lit- tion of a 24-mile link connect- the Santa Fe as the latest de-
tle village at the base of San ing the Palms-to-Pines High- This evaporative water recirculating developments in ultra-modern
Jacinto that intangible lure way with the new Imperial cooler is economical and easy to passenger equipment—in beau-
install and maintain.
which now draws visitors from Highway near Aguanga. The AVAILABLE IN FOUR SIZES ty of appointment, roominess
road will be known as the From $45.00 up and smooth-riding perfection.
all over the world.
Cahuilla-Anza Cut-Off. • • The Super Chief twice-weekly
Not that there necessarily is For further information write in each direction between Los
a clash between creative art Riverside county supervisors Ace Metal Products Co. Angeles and Chicago, is the
and profit-taking. The real have been asked to establish "Everything in the Sheet Metal Line"
only solid-Pullman 39% hour
work of the world is done by 5702 So. BROADWAY
a prison camp to carry on Los ANGELFS, CALIF. transcontinental train; and The
men and women who possess the work. Chief is the finest, fastest and
a happy blending of both ta- Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.
only extra-fare Chicago daily
lents. But, unfortunately, the train. • The popularity of these
pitiless race for dollars has A DESERT CHRISTMAS GIFT trains suggests the advisability
. . . for particular people of early reservations.
743 S. Hill St, LOS ANGELES
PALM RIPENED CALIFORNIA (jul iilamtt St. &. 44 4th St.
SAiN rKAiNGiSLU
SOFT DATES ULh Ave. & it St. & Santa Fe
alatiun, SAIN L/llLUO
7-28
Six varieties of the finest palm-ripened soft
dates grown in California. This attractive three-
pound container metes an ideal
Christmas gift.

Pancko Contento on his way to ONE 3-POUND


Calexico, where he always finds the CONTAINER
D.li..r«d i n , p l . « in U. \
best for the least.
Si, Si, the TWO 3 POUND
CONTAINERS

HOTELDEANZA ONE CASE


on the border of \>i * , . . pwd »*..•..„) 51Q2O
Shipped e.preu. ch.rg.i collect. Xt/==
Mariana Land
CALEXICO, CALIF. Above three-pound Variety Pack of Soft
Dates AND a three pound Sampler Pact
Rales from J3.SO
of Desert D«Bud<H (including date cake,
Roland L. Still, Mgr. date loaf, stuffed dates, and Urge soft
dates) delivered to ONE addre i s . * 4 . 4 5

Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938. Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1937. Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.

Cactus City (L%omck JULY 1982/DESERT 37


looks easy but it sure isn't. make a soft dough. Roll out on
Wonder how these cooks floured board to about 3/4-inch
knew just how many biscuits thick. Do not knead—handle
would result from such a as little as possible. Cut with a
haphazard method? They biscuit cutter or juice can and
knew the number of biscuits in place on a greased baking sheet
a batch was determined by the or pan. Grease should be
amount of water or milk used. warm. Bake at 450 degrees for
So much water or milk takes 15 to 18 minutes.
BISCUITS AND GRAVY up just so much flour. So when —Stella Hughes
A typical breakfast on any My favorite way to make you're using flour—not' pre-
roundup, be it a hundred years good gravy is to fry good-sized mixed—the proportions to fol-
ago or today, would be round steaks (that have been low for each cup of water are,
biscuits—sourdough or baking pounded, floured, salted, and approximately, */t cup shorten- READER
powder—fried steaks, and peppered) in hot fat in a heavy ing, 1 teaspoon salt, and 3 tea-
milk gravy. While the chuck- iron skillet until the steaks are spoons baking powder. RECIPES
wagons might have been very crusty brown on both sides. I never make biscuits with- We'll soon begin featur-
shy on eggs, they always had Then remove the steaks, letting out adding a little sugar. Not ing some of the favorite rec-
plenty of canned milk. Hard- lots of crispy, delicious flakes enough to sweeten the dough, ipes of our readers in
working cowhands dearly love fall back into the skillet. This is but just enough to cut the flat "Southwest Cookbook." In
to sop their biscuits in good the ingredient that makes or taste that biscuits sometimes each issue, we'll publish
milk gravy. breaks a good pan of gravy. If have. . reader recipes that either
Don't be surprised, when there's not enough fat in the Some old-time I cooks pre- include a specific ingre-
traveling in Texas or other skillet, add several tablespoons ferred water biscuits to those dient (like avocado) or that
parts of the South, to see res- of bacon drippings and scrape made with milk, claiming that fit a particular style or cat-
taurants named simply BIS- all of the fryings from the bot- water biscuits stay fresh egory of cooking (like Mex-
CUITS AN' GRAVY. Besides tom of the skillet. Add flour longer. When cooking for a ican casseroles). We'll let
the usual ham and eggs, the and stir until lightly brown, bunch of hungry men in camp, you know each month
one specialty is, like the name then gradually add the milk. I never have any left over to what we're looking for.
says, biscuits and gravy. Continue stirring until the test this point. Our editorial staff will
Some cooks are always ask- gravy is thickened and smooth. review the recipes sub-
ing just how much flour and The cowboy or mountain mitted and will cook up
milk is needed to make gravy, man may have been the and taste all recipes tenta-
because it's almost impossible originator of our modern pre- tively selected for publica-
to find a recipe giving pared biscuit mixes. Most of tion. Desert will publish the
amounts. Here's a good rule of the time, when traveling light, selected recipes and the
thumb: 2 level tablespoons of he prepared his flour, baking contributors' names. We
fat and 2 level tablespoons powder, and salt in a sack be- will pay $10 for each recipe
of flour will thicken Vz pint of fore leaving home. When he we publish.
liquid. Seasonings vary, with camped, all he had to do was Currently, we are seek-
some cooks adding a smidgen add water and shortening and ing recipes that include
of garlic salt or onion flakes. bake. Sometimes he might avocados; recipes that in-
Drippings from fried ham, have used canned milk instead clude popcorn; and terrific
pork or lamb chops, chicken, of water, resulting in a much chili recipes.
spareribs, sausage, and ham- lighter and tastier bread. The Some rules and further
burger all make the foundation shortening was either bacon information:
for a good gravy. Even old drippings or lard. 1. Recipes should be
faithful salt pork can be used to printed or typed and
make good gravy for biscuits. Almost all of the old-time
cooks I ever knew mixed their should include your name,
biscuit dough in a dishpan of address, and telephone
Salt pork gravy flour. Making a well in the number. (If your recipe is
middle of the flour, they published, we'll only print
Vt to % lb. salt pork your name and city.)
2 tablespoons flour poured in starter (if making
Sr pint milk (canned or fresh sourdough bread), additional 2. All recipes become
whole milk) water, sugar, and salt, and the property of Desert
Salt and pepper to taste began mixing by turning in Magazine and will not be
Dash of MSG (optional) small handfuls of flour as they returned.
Parboil slices of salt pork for spun the pan around. They 3. There is no limit to the
10 minutes. This can be done wouldn't have known how to number of recipes you may
the night before, or you can get a good "scald" on their Baking powder biscuits send.
soak the salt pork overnight to bread mixing it any other way. 2 cups flour 4. Recipes should be
remove some of the salty taste, Other bread makers would mix 4 teaspoons baking powder mailed to Recipes, Desert,
but do not omit parboiling. their dough right in the top of 1 teaspoon salt 2145 Garnet Ave., San Di-
Drain well, then cut pork into the flour sack, by first rolling 1 tablespoon sugar ego, Calif. 92109.
bite-sized pieces and fry. Re- the sack down to flour level, 2 tablespoons shortening (not 5. Recipes will be
move pork, set aside. Add 2 making a shallow well, and oil) judged on originality . . .
tablespoons flour to fat and pouring in the liquid. They 3
A cup to 1 cup milk or water and good taste!
brown slightly. Add milk and would then pinch off biscuits Sift flour, baking powder, Check this box each
stir until thickened. Season to and crowd them into a Dutch salt, and sugar together. Cut in month for our recipe-
taste. Add the fried pork and oven. No mixing bowl, no shortening or blend with fin- seeking updates.
serve over hot biscuits. breadboard, no rolling pin. It gers; pour in milk gradually to

38 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus Cttg Chronicle


proceed east 143/io miles from scription is somewhat high,
the big wash at the collecting though, with a trial offer of $45
area, turn left onto the inter- for three months. I have not
secting road, and go another been able to review a copy, but,
eight miles to the sign. if you're interested, contact
You must park outside and Precioustone Newsletter, Desert
AGUILA HIGHWAY 60 pay a fee in the office before Dept., P.O. Box 4649, Thou-
1 beginning your walking tour, sand Oaks, Calif. 91359.
N -^ / / WICKENBURG but it is worth it. The mine was Equipment: If you work
/ /
Uj Q 1 /
2 miles shut down when the vein was with gold or any other heavy
^ ^" / / lost in a fault, but it has never metals, you might be inter-
been abandoned. The potential ested in the Scrap Trap, avail-
//s 1 value of the property, if the able from Abbey Materials
K/} ^ ) VULTURE 1 I vein is relocated, is substantial. Corp., Desert Dept., 2911 At-
MINE
iy\5v^ / // For this reason, most of the lantic Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y.
/ ^
buildings and equipment are in 11207. This device attaches to
/ '*/ surprisingly good condition, so the drain under your work-
you see original — not recon- shop sink. It contains a filter

1
structed — items. that will catch any gold filings
Visitors can try their luck at or scrap that might get washed
panning for gold. I have been down. With the price of gold so
able to find a few flakes on high, this could be a good in-
each visit. The personnel are vestment.
friendly and glad to answer The Graves Company, Des-
questions. In addition, there ert Dept., 950 S.W. 12 Ave.,
APACHE TEARS is an impressive display of Pompano Beach, Fla. 33060,
Collecting sites: I recently up additional specimens and gold in the office, as well as has completely remodeled the
had the opportunity to accom- cracking them. Each revealed a some historical items from the Mark IV Faceting Machine. It is
pany a friend as he did some glassy interior. I had set up my region. now cast in one piece, provid-
prospecting near Wickenburg, tent in a field of Apache tears. Books: An interesting new ing for greater strength. In ad-
Ariz., which is 60 miles north- The next morning, while my book is now available. Arkan- dition, the renovated Mark IV
west of Phoenix. This locality is friend was working in the sas' Incredible Diamond Mine features a new motor and drive
known to have produced gold, wash, I spent the time gather- Story gives the history and system and ball bearing arbor
and it boasts one of the state's ing tiny black obsidianites. Be- other pertinent data about mounts with screws that per-
most famous mines, the Vul- fore noon, I'd filled two lunch America's only diamond pipe, mit the arbor to be precisely
ture. We started our search bags and also found some ex- located near Murfreesboro, positioned. This allows for ac-
south of Wickenburg and de- cellent, bubbly chalcedony. Ark., which is 150 miles curate alignment of facets, no
cided to work westward from Most of what I obtained took a southwest of Little Rock. This matter where on the lap they
there. My primary interest was good polish in a tumbler, and a site has been well-known to are ground.
not gold, though, but minerals. few of the large specimens rockhounds for years, and the B. Jadow and Sons, Inc. re-
Each time we stopped, my made nice faceted pieces. The book is a must for anyone who cently developed a new econ-
friend would begin digging majority are transparent, and has visited there or plans to do omy line of jeweler's saw
and sampling, while I would some exhibit a billowing sheen so. The cost is $6.45, and it can blades. A variety of sizes are
explore the area. In the course when polished. be obtained by sending a check available and they are individ-
of our week's work, we did, in When searching for Apache to the author, Jerry Wilcox, ually packed to maintain quali-
fact, locate some gold and a tears, the best technique is to Desert Dept., P.O. Box 534, ty. The cost is 69 cents a dozen,
number of nice mineral depos- walk with the sun to your back. Nashville, Ark. 71852. and more information can be
its. My favorite of the latter The bright lighting makes the The University of New Mex- obtained by writing B. Jadow
was discovered the last eve- tiny black( stones stand out ico Press (Desert Dept., Al- and Sons, Desert Dept., 53
ning of our trip. The location against the much lighter soil. It buquerque, N.M. 87131) has West 23rd St., New York, N.Y.
offers t h o u s a n d s of tiny takes some patience and walk- just published Brazilian Stone 10010.
Apache tears, many of which ing to find a quantity of the Meteorites, by Celso B. Gomes Diamond discs are now avail-
will take a beautiful polish. little gems, but this is a fairly and Klaus Keil. It sells for $20 able to all lapidary craftsmen
We had decided to spend productive location that's wor- and is a great reference for and can be used on any
our final night next to a wash thy of a visit if you are in the anyone interested in those sponge-covered face plate or
my friend wanted to inspect area. once-celestial objects. There spin disc in six or eight-inch
further, and that evening, To get there, simply take are two sections. The first is an diameter. Raytech Industries,
while setting up my tent, I Highway 60 to Aguila, and exhaustive discussion of mete- Inc., Desert Dept., P.O. Box 6,
noticed there were lots of then head south from town. orites in general, including Stafford Springs, Conn. 06076,
tiny black stones scattered Go 49/io miles, then turn east classification, mineralogy, is the manufacturer and claims
throughout the sandy soil. I on the intersecting dirt road. composition, and recognition. they are far more economical
tossed the first few out of the Continue approximately 68/io The second section is devoted than traditional silicon carbide
way so that I would have a miles to the big wash. After to meteorites found in Brazil. varieties. The cutting rate is
smooth sleeping area, but you've crossed it, you will be at Publications: It was re- much faster and they boast a
eventually I became curious the edge of the collecting site. cently called to my attention considerably longer life. True
about exactly what they were. From here, continuing at least that there is an investment Circle Diamond Discs are
When I cracked one, its secret one mile east, the ground is lit- newsletter available to persons manufactured in 325 grit and
was revealed. The interior was tered with the Apache tears. dealing in gemstones. It's 1200 grit and have a pressure-
a beautiful, smoky-black glass. While in the area, I strongly called the Precioustone Newslet- sensitive backing that allows
After this discovery, I excited- suggest continuing to the old ter and is a monthly, 24-page them to be mounted and re-
ly scrambled around picking Vulture Mine. To get there, publication. The cost for a sub- moved easily. — Rick Mitchell

Cactus (Ett^r (Eljramck JULY 1982 /DESERT 39


identical to the Select Drive
system employed on AMC
Eagle 4WD cars. But Selec-Trac
also includes a low-range—or
§§§ two-speed—capability in the
transfer case to provide added
torque when required.
three models and two sizes. The low-range mode can be
Motor casings are available in activated only when the Jeep
antique and contemporary de- vehicle is in 4WD. A sequential
signs. The blades can be or- lockout system within the
dered in oak, walnut, white- transfer case prevents activa-
wood, or a cane texture. Whis- tion of low range when the ve-
perfan III retails for about $259. hicle is in 2WD. Low range can
Homestead Products, Desert Can-do canoe be activated by a floor-
Dept., 114 14th St., Ramona, Camping, exploring, fish- mounted lever next to the
Calif. 92065. ing—Coleman designed the driver.
new Scanoe to fit all of the Selec-Trac gives the motorist
Out of the hot seat needs of the sportsperson. a fingertip choice of driving
Somebody has finally come The Scanoe is a square-stern modes to fit whatever road
up with a solution to the canoe that's easy to handle and condition he or she may en-
touchy problem of hot-baked much lighter than aluminum counter. All it takes is a simple
car seats, steering wheels, and jonboats or semi-V fishing flip of a switch mounted on the
dashboards. New Auto Sun boats, according to Coleman. dashboard. There are no wheel
Shields are fans that protect Its hull material is slippery so hubs to adjust so there is no
the front interior of the car that it can get into and out of reason to leave the driver's
when you have to park in the tight places. Best of all, the seat.
scorching sun. Scanoe is car-toppable—you American Motors Corp., Desert
They're made of aluminum A farewell to swarms won't need a trailer. Dept., 27777 Franklin Rd.,
Venetian blind material and are The people at Aladdin say It paddles on a river or Southfield, Mich. 48034.
easily installed by suction cups that their new Bug Battler elec- stream, but you can also add a
to the inside base of the wind- tric bug killer produces results motor. Coleman says that the
shield. They can be opened that must be seen to be be- Scanoe never needs painting
and closed in seconds, and lieved—because they can't be and will withstand much more
when the Auto Sun Shields are heard. abuse than aluminum, fiber-
not in use they fold onto the "While other electric bug glass, or the coated fabric of in-
dashboard out of the driver's killers operate with a constant flatables. Retail price is about
vision. loud zapping and popping that $449.
At $32 a set, Auto Sun sometimes can be more annoy- The Coleman Company, Inc.,
Shields are available in sizes to ing than the bugs themselves, Desert Dept., 250 N. St. Francis,
fit cars and vans sold in the Aladdin unit does the job Wichita, Kan. 67201.
the U.S. silently," says an Aladdin
Tradepower Inc., Desert Dept., spokesperson.
3808 Rosecrans St., Suite 480, The Bug Battler works on the
San Diego, Calif. 92110. same luring principle as electric i
grid models. It employs a
blacklight lamp that emits a
blue glow to lure insects. After
the bugs have been lured into
the openings of the unit, a
powerful fan mounted above Two four one
the lamp creates a strong A system that combines the
downdraft that forces bugs into fuel efficiency of two-wheel-
a trap-tray of water, drowning drive with the security and
For desert fans them quickly and silently. handling of full-time four-
On average, a ceiling fan The unit's lamp is rated for wheel-drive has been intro- Moving conversation
pays for itself in 24 months in 6,000 hours of continuous use duced on 1982 Jeep Wagoneer, "They punch through loud
savings on heating and air and the Battlet operates for less Cherokee, and J-10 truck mod- and clear—and they're true
conditioning bills, according to than $1 per month on a stand- els made by American Motors professional-quality units, not
Homestead Products. Their ard 110-voIt household current. Corporation. toys," says Cobra Communi-
new Whisperfan III is a ceiling Except for emptying the It's called Selec-Trac, and cations about their newest
fan with six 38-inch blades trash-tray about once a week, this new full-time 4WD/2WD walkie-talkies.
(most fans have four). The the unit is maintenance-free. system is standard on Wag- The model 3GTL is a three-
extra blades circulate more air, It's designed to be mpunted on oneer Limited and optional on channel, two-watt unit and the
says the company, and con- a tree, post, or wall, or posi- other Wagoneer, Cherokee, 6GTL is a six-channel, five-
sequently can run at a lower tioned as a freestanding unit. and J-10 vehicles. Offered only watt unit. Both transceivers are
and quieter speed. The fan is a The suggested retail price is in combination with an auto- compact and lightweight and
light 15 pounds and can be eas- $69.95. matic transmission, Selec-Trac feature high-impact ABS plas-
ily installed by amateur home AIM, Inc., Desert Dept., P.O. succeeds Jeep Quadra-Trac, a tic cases. They're 9V4x3x2V4
improvers. Box 100255, Nashville, Tenn. full-time 4WD system. inches deep and weigh about
The Whisperfan comes in 37210. Conceptually, Selec-Trac is two pounds. Both models are

40 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus


furnished with transmit-and- start at $59.95, and rentals are kind of hardware you can
receive crystals for the popular also offered. imagine," according to a com-
walkie-talkie channel 14. Max- The company will send a free pany spokesperson.
imum range is assured by the catalog. Do-it-yourselfers will love
telescopic antennas and the Around the World in Sight and the catalog because it features
metal grounding plates on the Sound, Desert Dept., 3255 hundreds of different kinds of
vertical edges of the case that Brighton-Henrietta Town Line nuts, bolts, screws, rivets, elec-
are in contact with the oper- Road, Rochester, N.Y. 14623. trical terminals, nails, and
ator's hand when the unit is other fasteners and hardware.
in use. Each type of hardware comes
Both models also feature in complete sets, called Work-
squelch control, low battery Shops.
indicator (LED), external Items in the catalog are de-
speaker jack, and hand/ scribed in terms of what they
shoulder straps. The 6GTL, in Nuts to you do and for what kinds of proj-
addition, has high-low power DRI Industries has devel- ects they're used. Each is
for choice of five or one-watt oped such a variety of direct- shown in its actual size.
power and a loading coil on its mail hardware that they've The catalog can be obtained
telescopic antenna for greater produced a catalog. It's called for $1, which is deductible with
transmission efficiency. NO, I'M Nor<SOWS TO ASK T^EM IF TtieY'U- "The Catalog You Should your first order.
Suggested retail price for the WMT WHILE 1 0 * 1 TOTHeeroftE ft* BffTEBES/"
Never Throw Away!" and it DRI Industries, Desert Dept.,
3GTL is $74.95; for the 6GTL, contains "just about every con- P.O. Box 20612, Bloomington,
$99.95. Big charge ceivable type, size, style, and Minn. 55420.
Cobra Communications, Desert You're in the middle of the
Dept., 6460 W. Cortland St., desert at sunset photographing
Chicago, III. 60635. wildflowers. It's getting so
dark that you take out your
flash. Uh-uh . . . the batteries
are dead.
The uncertainty about how
much more life you can expect
from a "throwaway" battery is
a thing of the past now that
General Electric has made
available their GE Recharge-
able Battery System. Available
in several lightweight, minia-
The world on the wall ture sizes, GE says it will keep
"Around the World in Sight battery power flowing con-
and Sound" is a new collection tinuously for up to four years.
of narrated travel slide pro- The GE system comes in the
grams that can provide hours most popular battery sizes—
of entertainment, information, AA, C, D, and nine-volt. Initial M M M M I C WINDOW

and education at home. cost for the three parts—


Fifty programs are available. module, charger, and nickel- Space and grace oven with glass see-through
The "People and Places" cate- cadmium batteries—is less Plenty of room to relax and door, and a 10-foot double-
gory includes programs about than $20, and the price is even entertain guests in a travel door deluxe refrigerator with a
China, France, Egypt, Hawaii, lower for a miniature charger trailer? That's what's behind cross-top freezer. Other galley
and more. Desert lovers will unit that comes as a complete the design of Komfort Indus- features are large porcelain
appreciate two offerings from set in each of the four sizes. tries' Model 34-T travel trailer. double sinks and a spacious
the "Recreation" category— Initial cost of carbon and al- It features an extra-spacious pantry and storage. Suggested
"Walking in the Wilderness" kaline "throwaway" batteries living room with a full-width retail price is about $15,995.
covers backpacking and hiking is considerably lower, but GE hide-a-bed divan and four Komfort Industries, Inc., Desert
and "Touring on Two Wheels" says that their system will panoramic windows. The liv- Dept., 7888 Lincoln Ave., P.O.
is all about bicycling and camp- more than pay for itself—in a ing room of the 34-foot trailer Box 4698, Riverside, Calif. 92514.
ing. "Reading the Sky" con- year or less in some cases—in also includes a drop-leaf high-
cerns cloud formations and terms of time and cost factors. low coffee/dining table with Attention desert product
how to forecast the weather by To recharge, the batteries are two folding chairs, a swivel makers: Desert Magazine
looking at them. One of the inserted into a m o d u l e , rocker, and 6V2 feet of head- will be glad to consider
biggest sellers is "America's snapped onto the charger, and room. your producj: for inclusion
National Parks," which gives then the entire system is There are two entries to the in this column. We require
tips for what to do and see at plugged into the nearest elec- 34-T—one in the living room that it be new, commer-
several major parks. trical outlet. The batteries re- and the second in the master cially available, and of spe-
Each program contains 80 charge in eight to 12 hours. bedroom. That master bed- cific interest to our readers.
slides and a narrated cassette Should the batteries be over- room is separated from the rest Send your information and
ranging in length from approx- looked and remain in the outlet of the travel trailer by a sliding a glossy black and white
imately 10 to 30 minutes. Prices for weeks or months, there door. It, too, has a panoramic photo to the New Products
start at $39.95. won't be any damage. window. Editor, Desert Magazine,
Programs are also available General Electric Company, Bat- At the trailer's center is the 2145 Garnet Ave., San Di-
on videocassettes for U-Matic, teries Division, Desert Dept., galley, which has a breakfast ego, Calif. 92109.
Beta, and VHS systems. Prices Gainesville, Via. 32602. bar, four-burner range, large

Cactus Ctty Chronicle JULY 1982/DESERT 41


TREASURE HUNTING
LORE GALORE
I FOUND PEG LEG'S BLACK GOLD1
And there might be more left for you near California's Salton Sea
The legend of Peg Leg's black Dear Desert Editor: doubted the story of Peg Leg's most 10 years ago I found what
gold lives on and on. We've re- Although the enclosed story black nuggets. You may keep has been known since 1852 as
ceived many letters expressing has no byline, I believe it and them with my compliments for the "burned black gold of the
interest in this lost treasure . . . the photographs will be of Desert Magazine's collection of Peg Leg."
and a good number of the letter- interest to you. After you have desert artifacts — in this case Without pinpointing the dis-
writers have actually searched - read the story you will under- you can start a new collection covery on a map for reasons
with varying levels of determina- stand why the reasons for my of items from lost mines that that are obvious, I will say only
tion - for the elusive black remaining anonymous are too have been found. that it is less than 30 miles from
nuggets. obvious to enumerate. Very sincerely yours, the Salton Sea and within the
Because interest is running so You have my full permis- The man who found confines of the map on page 10
high after all of these years, we've sion to publish the story and Peg Leg's black gold of the November 1946 issue of
decided to begin reprinting a series this letter if you wish. They P.S. If the story is printed, Desert Magazine.
of Desert articles about the search may be of minor interest to the undoubtedly there will be I've gone back to the location
for this lost treasure, starting with readers of Desert Magazine. some questions from readers. an average of twice a year since
the unsigned letter and manu- More important, I am also As mentioned, I'm a subscriber the first discovery, and, accord-
script that follow. They touched off enclosing two of the Peg Leg to Desert Magazine, and al- ing to my records, I've brought
an unbelievable furor of treasure- nuggets. One is still black, ex- though I will remain anony- out and sold a total of $314,650
hunting activity and excitement actly as found, and the other mous, I will answer any ques- worth of Peg Leg's black gold
when they were printed in the has had the black copper tion or letter that is printed in nuggets. This amount is not
March 1965 Desert. oxides removed by the process Desert Magazine. the "millions" usually as-
For those unfamiliar with the mentioned in the story and is sociated with lost mines and
Peg Leg legend, the author - un- now native "gold" in color. It is time, once and for all, to treasures, but it is a fortune to
known to this day - includes a You will have these nuggets to end the mystery, the specula- me. The money has been
brief recounting of the story. -Ed. show one and all who have tion, and the controversy. Al- wisely and quietly invested.

RANCH., .:,.•:•••;•. •••••:'-. , . vs«ou>i(os-.\


ll •"•• .5V"'*V;: '••„. ''.. 15 80RRESO - . ^ " Y ^ V V " ' \:

25^ ! rBOUNDARY • / *
CAMPO !
M i. -v / / / " * * •

Originally appearing in the November 1946 issue, this map was reprinted with the author's story in March 1965. He says the gold was within the
map's borders.

42 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus Cttg Chronicle


Within a year after first discov- fortable income to do as I I am sure of one thing. I found I'd read the Peg Leg story in
ering the gold, I retired from please, the passion for secrecy the black gold and I've got the Desert some years before, but
the work I was doing and have is no longer important. proof in the form of photo- had forgotten all about it. As
been enjoying life ever since. Finally, I've already found all graphs as well as the black my numbed brain started to
Why, then, should I break a of the gold that can be easily nuggets themselves. function again it all came back
10-year silence and write about collected without actual mining My own story starts in the to me and I realized the area I
the discovery now? Perhaps operations. With the surface month of March 1955. Let me was in was part of the Peg Leg
the answer lies in a remark gold gone, I don't think any- reiterate, I was a simple rock- country described in the story.
made by a former editor of Des- one else is going to find the Peg hound, not a treasure hunter This was it! I'd found the black
ert Magazine in describing the Leg for the simple reason that or a searcher for lost mines. Peg Leg gold!
men who came to Desert's of- whatever gold is left is well The next thing I remember
fice looking for information underground. The discovery was scrambling wildly on my
about lost mines and treasures I'd driven to that part of the knees among the pebbles, pick-
of the desert. His parting The story of Peg Leg low desert in my Jeep for a ing them up by the handfuls
words to all of them were, Before going into my own weekend of fresh air, good and hefting for heavy ones. In
"Good luck — and if you find story, let's go back to the be- weather, some exercise, and a the next two hours I found
it, be sure to write a story for ginning for a brief resume of bit of rock hunting. Fortunate- seven more nuggets, which
Desert. So far we haven't had the Peg Leg story and quote ly, in view of what transpired, I later weighed out from a half-
such an article, but there's al- Henry E. W. Wilson from his was alone on the trip. Saturday ounce on up to one that went
ways a first time." story "Lost Peg Leg Gold is afternoon I drove the Jeep as nearly two ounces.
For all these years I've in- Not a Myth" from the Novem- far as I could go up a sandy My hands were getting raw
tended to keep the discovery ber 1946 issue of Desert wash and camped for the eve- from handling the pebbles so I
an absolute secret for the rest Magazine: ning. Sunday morning, after a sat down for awhile to gather
of my life, but those words "so leisurely breakfast, I took off my wits and to do some think-
far we haven't had such an ar- "About the year 1852, John for a long hike, carrying only a ing. The first thing was to
ticle" and "there's always a O. Smith, known as Peg Leg canteen, a rock hammer, and a make sure that I knew where I
first time" kept going around Smith, journeying from Yuma small sack to bring back speci- was and could come back to
and around in my mind. to Los Angeles by way of mens, intending to come back the same place again. If the
Somehow I'd always assumed Warner's Ranch, attempted a to the Jeep for lunch. I walked black nuggets of metal in my
that more than one lost mine or shortcut across the desert. He about two miles through un- pockets really were gold, then I
desert treasure had been redis- was familiar with this part of even terrain, stopping now was damned if I was going to
covered and the riches the Southwest, having been a and then to pick up rock sam- rush back to the Jeep half-
claimed. Apparently this is not horse trader and guide. ples, none of which, as I re- cocked and end up not being
true, unless someone has "Somewhere in this desolate member, were of any particular able to find my way back like
found something and kept it region he climbed one of three interest. About 11 a.m. I sat so many others have.
quiet as I have. hills, on the top of which lay a down on top of a small hill to Forcing myself to stay calm, I
quantity of black lumps of take a drink from the canteen retraced my route to the Jeep
Perhaps it is time also to give metal which Smith took to be
hope to those hardy souls who and rest a bit before starting by placing stone markers every
copper. He picked up a few for back. The hill I was sitting on 50 feet or so. It was late in the
have spent months and years his collection of curiosities. Ar-
of their lives searching for lost was covered with a crust of afternoon when I arrived at the
riving in Los Angeles, he smooth water-worn pebbles, Jeep, but without even realiz-
bonanzas. There have always showed his "native copper" to
been doubting Thomases who the sand and dirt having been ing my acute hunger, I rolled
a mining friend who pro- partly blown from them by the up my sleeping bag, snatched a
claimed that lost mines and nounced it pure gold. Though
treasures of the desert were wind. After drinking I leaned couple cans of food, and
coated with black desert var- over on my left elbow and idly headed back to what I already
nothing but figments of some- nish, the nuggets were the real
body's imagination. Well, now began to flip the smooth peb- had named "Peg Leg Hill." It
thing beneath the surface." bles down the slope with my was there, exactly as I had left
it is time to prove that at least
one lost desert bonanza has Peg Leg disappeared during right hand as I would shoot it. I unrolled my sleeping bag
been discovered — and not lost a subsequent search for the marbles, hardly paying any at- on top of the hill, cut open the
again, for I know exactly where black nuggets and in the years tention to what I was doing. cans, and ate the cold food.
it is. that followed several others The eighth or tenth pebble I
picked up was heavy — so
At this point let me qualify found them, but either could
heavy I retained it in my hand Secret mining plans
myself. I've lived most of my not go back to the location or It wouldn't be fair to say that
died or were killed. The last and sat up to examine it
life in the Southwest and have closely. It was black and I slept that night, for I didn't. I
always loved the desert. I've discovery was made about 1880 lay there wide awake, my mind
by a half-breed who was later rounded on the edges and
been a subscriber to Desert about three-quarters of an inch racing. During that sleepless
Magazine for many years and knifed in a brawl. More than night I arrived at three absolute
$4,000 worth of coarse gold in diameter. Hefting it two or
although I've enjoyed reading three times, I quickly realized decisions. (1) I would go back
the articles about the lost mines was found in his bunk. to the Jeep a second time and
that for the weight of its small
and treasures, I never had any Although none of the black size it must be metal — and be positive that I could find my
burning urge to search for nuggets have shown up in the heavy metal. Quickly I brought way back to the hill again. (2) I
them. A story on where to find 80-odd years since the half- out my pocketknife and would mark the spot where the
a field of desert wildflowers in breed was knifed, probably no scraped the surface of the peb- Jeep was, turn it around and
the spring or a map showing "lost gold" story has created as ble with the edge of the blade. m e a s u r e exactly by the
where to collect mineral speci- much mystery, legend, and ex- When I saw the yellow glitter I speedometer the distance to
mens was just as interesting to citement, or led as many men dropped it — then picked it up the next road and the main
me as a story about lost gold. to search for it as the Peg Leg. again with a trembling hand. highway, and draw myself a
Secondly, now that almost 10 Whether the black nuggets I'll never know how long I sat map and mark the distances on
years have passed since I first found by Peg Leg and the there paralyzed with that first it. (3) I would go home and
found the Peg Leg gold and I others are the same as those I black gold nugget in my hand. find out if the black nuggets
am retired for life with a com- discovered, I can't be sure. But really were gold.

Cactus Cti£ Chronicle JULY 1982/DESERT 43


PEG LEG'S oxides, or, at some time,
perhaps millions of years ago,
GOLD after the nuggets were al-
Continued luviated (i.e., had their sharp
edges worn off by the abrasive
At first light in the morning, action of sand and water), they
I sorted more pebbles with my were exposed to either volcanic
tender hands, more slowly this heat or the internal heat of the
time, and added two more earth's crust, which caused the
black nuggets to the seven al- copper molecules to oxidize
ready in my pocket. Then I and turn black.
rolled up my sleeping bag and Let me say here that I am
headed back to the Jeep. neither a mining engineer nor a
There were many questions geologist, and there may be a
churning in my mind. Should I more precise, scientific expla-
announce the discovery — nation of the black nuggets,
provided the nuggets turned but during the past 10 years I
out to be gold? Should I call a have read a great deal about
newspaper and tell them about gold and gold mining and do
it? Should I confide in my have a fair knowledge of the
friends? The first obvious an- subject. The sample black nuggets the anonymous author sent to Desert are no
swer to these questions was a Had these nuggets been in a longer at the magazine offices. But this garden-variety rock should give
resounding NO! The best thing running stream all of these you an idea of the size of the first nugget the author found. It's about
to do, I decided, was to keep years, like those found in Cali- three-quarters of an inch in diameter.
the whole business absolutely fornia's Mother Lode country,
secret and tell no one and do then the action of the water away so the gold was simply snooping around. The worst
nothing until I'd had a lot more and sand would have kept buried in a pocket of what had fear here was the fact that the
time to think things over. them clean and shiny with once been a streambed. nuggets could be found on the
On the drive home another perhaps some oxidation in the In the case of the Peg Leg surface or close to the surface,
thought occurred to me. The pits or cavities in the nuggets. nuggets, I believe the continu- and even if I filed a legal claim I
story of Peg Leg's black The point is this: Pure 1000 ing erosion of land that finally couldn't spend the rest of my
nuggets was well enough fine gold, or even gold with 10 turned into a desert exposed life standing guard over it with
known that it wouldn't be a to 15 percent silver alloy, will the nuggets again on the a double-barreled shotgun. Or,
good idea to show anybody a not tarnish and will stay gold- surface. if I hired someone to guard the
black nugget while trying to en in color under almost any Within 10 days of the first claim, what was to prevent him
find out what it was. I'd circumstances. It is possible discovery I was back at Peg Leg from picking up nuggets or tell-
scraped through the black var- that a coating of some kind Hill, this time with a metal de- ing someone else? Once the
nish or coating with my pock- may build up on the outside tector and a small shovel. I word got out, nothing on earth
etknife, so maybe there was a surface, but in the case of the stayed there six days and could ever have prevented a
way to remove it so I could Peg Leg nuggets it is the cop- brought out 720 ounces of stampede of people from over-
show something that wasn't per that turned them black. nuggets that later netted me a running the claim. Nothing
black. After some trouble I fi- little more than $20,000. could have come out of it ex-
nally removed the black coat- A golden theory Now that I knew exactly how cept trouble in one form or an-
ing from one nugget and took As to the origin of the Peg to get there, the problem be- other. No, the gold had been
it to an assay laboratory. They Leg gold, my theory is that mil- came one of hiding or conceal- there all those years. I decided
ran a spectroscopic assay and it lions of years ago gold was ing my trail so that no one to take my chances and play it
was, indeed, gold. present in a lode or vein that could follow me. This is the alone and in secrecy. Time has
I later learned that the so- was embedded in a mountain. main reason why I went there proven me right.
called black desert varnish or As the mountain slowly eroded only two or three times a year. I The next most important
coating on the nuggets was away, the gold, being heavier was very careful to fill up all thing was how to sell or dis-
simply copper oxide. Most than the surrounding material, the holes I dug to recover pose of the nuggets. The thing
gold found in its native state, gradually worked its way nuggets located with the metal that bothered me most was the
particularly in California, is down into the lower areas. It is detector and to replace the fact that black gold nuggets
usually alloyed with silver, known that the Salton Sea pebbles and make the surface would arouse or provoke
which averages 10 to 20 per- basin was part of the Gulf of look as undisturbed as possi- curiosity anywhere and talk
cent. The Peg Leg black California and probably at one ble. would be rampant. Sooner or
nuggets contain about 70 per- time received quantities of There were other questions later the cat would be out of the
cent gold, 20 percent silver, rain. The action of the water that came up. I thought se- bag, especially if I tried to sell
and 10 percent copper. It was and sand on the nuggets al- riously of going in to file a any sizable quantity of black
the copper molecules that oxi- luviated or rounded the sharp claim, but after careful thought gold' nuggets at one time. The
dized and gave the nuggets edges off of them and ulti- I discarded the idea. The min- first problem, therefore, was
their black color. Later, I will mately most of the gold in the ute I filed a claim, then at least the matter of removing the
explain my theory of the origin lode or vein made its way to one other person would know black color.
of the Peg Leg gold, but at one the bottom of the watercourse. the location. Obviously, I After serious study and a
time or another all of the Undoubtedly, there was shift- wasn't going to mention the good deal of experimentation, I
nuggets were either uncovered ing of the earth's crust and gold, but the very fact that I finally devised a method to ac-
by the elements and exposed to probably what was once a filed a claim on a particular complish what I wanted. By
the heat of the sun and the streambed was lifted up or spot in the desert might just dipping the nuggets into a hot
oxygen in the air for long peri- possibly buried completely. make somebody curious chemical bath, all of the cop-
ods of time which allowed the The original mountain carrying enough to talk and someone per oxide was dissolved and
copper to form into black the lode was totally eroded else curious enough to go stripped off, leaving the bright

44 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus


yellow gold nuggets. Certain believe I've found every problems of any kind. I'm
solutions, I discovered, would nugget both on the surface and healthy and there really isn't Readers: Do you have a
strip off most of the copper but underground within range of anything else I want. favorite treasure-hunting
still leave the nuggets with a the most powerful and sensi- Besides, I'm reminded of the tale to tell? An ages-old
reddish tint that was quite nat- tive detector. In short, I've stories the Alaskan prospectors legend . . . or an experi-
ural. This was desirable in view found all of the easy gold. I've told me about the men who ence of your own? Later
of the plan I had to dispose of got my share of the Peg Leg found a rich pocket of gold this year, we'll be printing
them. black nuggets and then some. and, after having cleaned it reader treasure-hunting
I've wondered whether I out, they still were not satisfied contributions, paying $50
On to Alaska should reveal the location now and spent it all digging deeper each for those we publish.
The first thing I decided was that I've cleaned out all of the trying to find more. Greed is If good-quality photos ac-
to never sell or display any of easy gold, but if I did there one of man's weaknesses. company your story, we'll
the nuggets anywhere in the would still be a wild stampede No, I'll say it again. I've got add another $50 to your
Southwest. What I did that and I would always feel some my share of the black gold and pay (and, of course, all of
first summer was to fly up to sense of responsibility for all I'm satisfied. the gold is yours to keep!).
Nome, Alaska, taking the of the hardship and struggle Send your contributions to
nuggets with me. The gold of those who failed to find Next month, we'll feature the "Treasure Hunting Lore
dredges were still operating the gold. letters that readers sent in 1965 Galore," Desert, 2145 Gar-
there and gold nuggets were I'm sure there are more after reading this story . . . and net Ave., San Diego, Calif.
rather plentiful around town in nuggets underground, prob- the anonymous author's answers 92109.
the various curio and jewelry ably great quantities of them to them. —Ed.
stores. I soon got on friendly along the ancient watercourse
terms with some of the pros- into which they were washed
pectors hanging a r o u n d , ages ago. They may be any- $1 to $2 $5 to $10.50
learned the jargon of placer per day per week
where from four feet to thou-
mining, and went up the 0
sands of feet underground, or O
creeks myself to "prospect." wherever the twisting and
Actually, I just camped out, did faulting of the earth's crust has
a bit of hunting and fishing, exposed or buried them. There
PIONFF.R PLAZA
enjoyed my vacation thorough- may even be other places EL PASO
ly, did some "panning" with where they can be found on A feu; minutes jrr/it/ Old Mexico
my gold pan, and generally the surface as I found them on
went through the motions of Peg Leg Hill and the mound, CALIFORNIAN HOTEL
placer mining. Back in Nome I and they may be miles away. 1907 W. SIXTH ST. — Los ANGI;I I;S
let it be known that I had I've also thought about going Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.
worked hard, had found a little in to file the claim now, but
"color," but nothing to get ex- again I discarded the idea.
cited about. I then sold the Why? To go after more of Peg
gold, a few ounces at a time, to Leg's black nuggets would re-
various stores, jewelry makers, quire the expense of forming a
private parties, and anyone mining company, taking in
else who was interested, but partners or associates, the pur-
never more than 15 ounces at chase of expensive equipment,
one time. the expense of moving it to the
Why all the secrecy? Well, site, and the bother of 1,001
the strategy worked in that I've other problems that would
kept the discovery of the Peg arise. I'm happy now and I've
Leg a secret these 10 years, and got all I can spend in a lifetime.
undoubtedly could for 10 My time ifi my own with no
more.
Actually, there were two
areas at Peg Leg Hill that con-
tained nuggets — the hill itself
Truck Men
and a large mound about 60
yards to the west. During the friaueluuf the.
six days of the second trip I
covered the whole countryside
for several miles in all direc- For your cargo refrigera-
tions, searching carefully for tion we can furnish
nuggets and using the metal
CRUSHED ICE
detector everywhere. It was
the detector that located the in any quantity . . . load-
ed in your equipment by
nuggets in the mound, as all of conveyor.
them were underground from
about four inches down to two Make this your refrigera-
tion depot on the long run
feet, where I discovered some from El Paso or Phoenix to
of the largest nuggets. The three Los Angeles.
hills of the original Peg Leg story
were not in evidence. Pure Ice Company
In any event, I've covered 248 Main St. El Centra, Calif.
the ground so thoroughly that I Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938. Reprinted from Desert Magazine, 1938.

Cactus JULY 1982/DESERT 45


FINE COIN SETS — half, quarter,
dime, nickle, and penny. Minted in any
year. Great gift for graduation, birth-
day, etc. Any year available. Value in-
creases as years pass. Handsomely dis-
played in gift box. Send $9.95 (includes
postage and insurance) to: Silver Dollar
ART MAPS Mart, P.O. Box 16249, San Diego, Calif.
ARIZONA ART notes. Original draw- OLD STATE, Railroad, County maps. 92116, or S.A.S.E. for more informa-
ings. Desert & Indian designs. Six 70-110 years old. All States. Stamp for tion.
notes/pack. $2.50 postpaid. Y. Reis, 1027 catalog. Northern Map, Dept. DM,
E. Harry, Tempe, Ariz. 85281. Dunnelion, Fla. 32630.
POSTER. "Barrel Cactus in Bloom
under Arizona Sky" 23 x 17 inches. PEN PALS
Suitable for home, den, office, or dorm.
Signed by artist. $5 — postage and DESERT NUT desires pen pals who are
handling. "Cactus," P.O. Box 16562, living in the Mojave, Colorado, or Sono-
Phoenix, Ariz. 85014. ran deserts. I'm a conservationist who
enjoys desert exploration, reptiles, and
plant life. Please write and share your
views with me. John Hall, 732 16th Ave.
BOOKS/MAGAZINES W., Kirkland, Wash. 98043.
TRAILER FOR THE '80s—Burro Travel Trailer
kit sleeps four. Under 1,000 lbs. Fiberglass.
Ready to tow. Finish interior only. Write Burro
NATIONAL PROSPECTOR'S Gazette. D7 14143, 21st Avenue North, Plymouth, MN
The newspaper for the prospector, trea- 55441. For full color catalog send $3.00 to cover
postage and handling. Dealers Wanted.
sure hunter, and the person who's PROSPECTING/
making a living on the road. Six issues TREASURE HUNTING
per year. $5. NPG, Box D, Ames,
Neb. 68621. NEED HELP finding that "lost" pat-
ented mining claim? I might be able to
DESERT MAGAZINES. Complete set,
short 10 issues, make offer. Box 147,
Wichita Falls, Texas 76309.
help. Call Crowe, (805) 393-4481, days;
(805) 833-9189, nights; or write P.O. Box
5246, Bakersfield, Calif. 93388. Reason-
WANTED
able rates. SUBSCRIPTION
ALTA LOMA California History, 1880-
FIND GOLD. How, where. Free infor- REPRESENTATIVES
1980, includes Russian and Mennonite
colonies, pioneer accounts, 187 pages, mation. Write: del oeste Press, Box for
350 photos. Softback $18, Hardback $27. 397-D, Tarzana, Calif. 91356.
Guaranteed delivery. Wallace Stoebe,
DESERT
3201 Valencia, San Bernardino, Calif. MAGAZINE
92404. RESORTS
EXPLORE COYOTE C a n y o n J e e p NEED MONEY?
DESERT MAGAZINE from 1937. Other Trails. Two hours from Los Angeles or Housewives, retirees, stu-
Western magazines. Box 940, Trona, San Diego. Kamp-Anza, 41560 Terwil- dents, anyone with a few
Calif. 93562. liger Rd., Space 19, Anza, Calif. 92306.
(714) 763-4819. hours to spare each week,
NEW CITY Old Bridge, unlikely story of here is YOUR opportunity to
how Lake Havasu City and fabled Lon- make EASY EXTRA DOL-
don Bridge merged on Sonora Desert. SERVICES
Authentic story, beautiful color. $4 in- LARS! Be our exclusive Des-
cludes postage and handling. New City PORTRAITS
CTRAT IN VIDEO: We put your ert subscription representa-
Old Bridge, P.O. Box 1907, Lake Havasu wedding, party, or other special event tive in your area. We need
City, Ariz. 86403. on videotape. Also, insurance inven-
tories and wills. Video/photography you NOW — in cities and
ALWAYS START Before Daylight. A packages available. Reasonable rates. towns, and on farms and
book of true cowboy stories, guaranteed Free estimate. So. Calif, only. (714) ranches everywhere. OUR
delivery, $6.60. Claude Farque, 1609 272-7824.
South Louisiana, Crossett, Ark. 71635.
GENEROUS COMMISSION
RATE will surprise you and
MISCELLANEOUS we pay IMMEDIATELY!
FOOD/RECIPES DIG ROCK GEOLOGY Game, learn Write SUBSCRIPTION REP-
GOURMET LEFTOVERS. 3 recipes, $3. while playing! Have adventures, collect RESENTATIVE, Desert
K. Bagley, Box 1325-D, El Cajon, Calif. minerals, gems! Informative booklet,
board, more: All ages. $19.95. King- Magazine, 2145 Garnet Ave.,
92022.
worthy'Educational Games, 115 Emer- San Diego, Calif. 92109, en-
ON A SUGARLESS or sugar-restricted son Dr., Great Neck, N.Y. 11023. closing a stamped, self-
diet? 10 delicious main dish recipes, $4. addressed No. 10 envelope,
S. A. Trobaugh, 1862 Thomas Ave., San SOLAR FOOD DEHYDRATOR, built
Diego, Calif. 92109. from one sheet plywood. Plans $5. T. for full details by return mail.
Bagley, Box 1325-D, El Cajon, Calif.
92022.

46 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus Ct


THE

Magazine's

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Ad BEST KEPT SECRET IN ALL THE DESERT
Seen Here!! NEW VACATION OWNERSHIP
Discover why 3 qut of 5 people who look at our program become members: minutes from
fashionable El Paseo in the heart of exclusive Indian Wells, luxuriously appointed accommo-
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Call for details on our exclusive offer.
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(Printed in newsprint in brown ink)


NEW 3-SHELF PLANTER POLE
Classified and Reading Notices You'll love the combination Walnut and Brass poles,
$1.00 per word (min. 12 words) heavy brass arms, and the 22" x 1" crystal-clear
molded shelves. Fits Floor-to-Ceilings up to 8'4"
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For 3 or more consecutive insertions, 10% discount. have Vi' safety ledges on ail 4 sides , . . are drip-
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Desert Magazine "knickknacks." You'll find loads of places to use
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How to Get Into The Post


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Here is my ad: Name.


It is words long (12 words/$12 minimum). Address.
I want it run in the issue(s).
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Cost: . words x. . times x $1 = $
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Examples: P.O. Box 200 counts as three
words; telephone numbers as two words.
Abbreviations and zip codes are one word.

Desert Magazine Trading Post


2145 Garnet Ave., San Diego, Calif. 92109

Cactus CUttg Chronicle JULY 1982/DESERT 47


The majority of desert lovers and black and white will be previous photo contest.
are photography lovers, too, considered together. In the 10. Photo rights remain with
according to our research. end-of-year judging, however, the photographer — but
You're active photographers one color and one black and Desert has unlimited right to
and usually take your cameras white photo will be selected — use entries in relation to
along when you go to the des- so there will be two grand- the contest, in advertising,
ert. That's the reason we offer prize winners. and in promotion.
tips on techniques and equip- Expand your creative photo- 11. Professional photogra-
ment in every issue of Desert. graphic abilities. Sharpen your phers are not eligible
But we want to go even further people picture skills. Enter (anyone who earns more
in encouraging you to expand Desert's People Photography than 50 percent of his or
your creative photography abil- Contest today. her income from taking
ities — and to offer you some pictures).
exposure — through our pho- Rules: 12. Three winners will be cho-
tography contest. 1. Maximum of four photos sen monthly through De-
The subject of the contest is per entry (enter as often as cember. To qualify for the
people in the desert. An over- you wish each month). monthly prizes, entries
whelmingly broad subject? 2. Maximum size of prints is must be received by Desert
That's intentional: The possi- 8x10 unmounted and un- by the following dates:
bilities are almost limitless, so framed. Maximum size of 6. All entries must have name June 15, July 15, Aug. 15,
you really must do some crea- envelope accepted is 9x12. and a d d r e s s clearly Sept. 15, and Oct. 15. En-
tive thinking, planning, and se- 3. Preferably, slides should marked on them. tries received after the fif-
lection in order to shoot and be sent in plastic sheets, 7. All "return" entries will be teenth of these months will
then send us a prize-winning because boxes tend to get returned by mail. be included in the next
shot. damaged. 8. If return of entry is de- month's judging. Entries
Some ideas: An elderly In- 4. Enter color or black and sired, a $2 fee for handling judged each month will be
dian woman, a couple of kids white. Any camera format and postage must be en- returned within six weeks,
running a race, a family barbe- is acceptable. closed with each entry — and only the three monthly
cue, a young woman playing 5. Personal drop-offs are ac- otherwise, entries will not winners will be held for
the flute, a dancing couple, ex- cepted, but no personal be retrievable by the consideration in the
hausted hikers, or a person or pickups. All entries must owner. grand-prize judging.
two just sitting there enjoying be accompanied by the of- 9. Photos must be recent (i.e., 13. The maximum is one
the desert air, or the sunshine, ficial entry blank or a within the last year), and monthly prize per indi-
or the view. Your only boun- photocopy. should not have won a vidual.
daries are that you must in- 14. All monthly winners will
clude at least one person in be eligible for the year-end
your picture . . . and the pic- grand prizes.
ture must be shot in the desert. 15. Grand-prize winners will
Here's how the contest will Every month until December, the top three be selected from the
work. From now through De- monthly winners.
cember, the three best photos photographers will be chosen, and 16. Winners will be published
will be chosen monthly and each of those three photographers two to three issues after
will be printed in that month's will receive an 11x14 framed the contest closing date.
issue of Desert. All of these
monthly winners will then be enlargement of his or her winning photo. 17. Decision of the judges is
final.
eligible in the final judging for
the two grand prizes at the end To Enter: Complete the entry form on this
of the year. We'll return your page and enclose with entry. Be sure to indi-
photos each month (if you Our two grand-prize winners will receive cate whether entry is free or if $2 is enclosed
for its return. Print your name and address on
choose the return option), so glorious vacations at desert resorts. Details the back upper right-hand comer of each indi-
that you won't be without vidual print or on the slide mount. Send con-
them too long. will follow soon! test entries to Photo Contest, Desert, 2145 Gar-
net Ave., San Diego, Calif. 92109.
For the monthly prizes, color Please note: All prizes must be accepted as
presented and are nontransferable and unre-
deemable for cash. In case of unavailability of a
This label will be used as a return label — please fill it out carefully. prize, Desert reserves the right to substitute a
prize of similar value. All trips given must be
used within six months of the issue announc-
Photo Contest TO: ing the winners.
Desert Magazine It is our experience that it is best to avoid
2145 Garnet Ave. mailing photos and slides in boxes and odd-
Name shaped packages because these undergo the
San Diego, CA 92109 most wear and tear in the mail. A flat package
(resembling a regular letter) is most desirable.
• My entry is free. I do not Address Thin cardboard should be enclosed with all
want my photos returned. photos. If sending slides, we prefer these in
City plastic sheets (these offer the best protection
• I am enclosing a $2 fee for during handling) and advise against sending
the return of my photos. State . Zip glass-mounted slides. Although all reasonable
care will be taken, Desert is not liable should
Phone damage or loss occur. Participation indicates
acceptance of the above contest rules.

48 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus


book's Introduction, the fea-
tured items throughout Utah
Folk Art are all "handmade,
made-in-Utah objects which
are most revealing in terms of a
geographic distribution of spe- the listing for the Apache 'Utah experience.'"
cies — is printed in large type, Scenic Trail near Apache Junc- Other folk art discussed and
while more detailed and tech- tion, Ariz i, the author advises lavishly illustrated: Indian art;
nical information appears in you to "always go up the trail frontier furniture; saddles and
small print. so that your car is against the other leatherwork; pottery,
cliffs. Do not take the trail in tinware, carpentry, and other
the dark." crafts; quilts, bonnets, and
Of particular interest to des- clothing; carving; and painting.
ert lovers, the book includes
scores of ghost towns, rock-
hounding sites, mining camps,
museums, campsites, festivals,
hiking and biking trails, beauti-
ful desert drives, historic sites,
hot springs, and Indian ar-
tifacts and pueblos.

Trees and Shrubs of


the Southwestern The Best Free
Deserts Attractions: The
by Lyman Benson and Robert Western States
A. Darrow; University of by John Whitman;
Arizona Press, Tucson, Ariz., Meadowbrook Press,
1981; 436 pp. Hardcover, Deephaven, Minn., 1981;
$49.50. 150pp. Paper, $3.95. Ghost Town El Dorado
by Lambert Florin; Bonanza
The book jacket of this excel- Any book that lists 1,500 Books, New York, N.Y., 1978;
lent, classic reference book things to do and see for free is 192pp. Hardcover, $12.95.
says that "the authors' use of terrific, but this one gets an
simple language makes (it) an even higher Desert rating be- Utah Folk Art From Bakers Bay, Wash., to
accessible volume for any na- cause there's so much in it for Edited by Hal Cannon; Study Butte, Texas, this book
ture lover." Well, granted, the desert lovers. Brigham Young University includes 63 towns that grad-
book includes a thorough The book has listings for Press, Provo, Utah, 1980; ually faded into ghosts after
overview chapter of the deserts Alaska, Arizona, California, 150pp. Paper, $15.95. their mining heydeys. The
it covers and a detailed expla- Colorado, Hawaii, Idaho, sheer number of ghost towns
nation of the terms and study Montana, Nevada, New Mex- The Ouzounian carpet on covered might have made a
methods used throughout the ico, Oregon, Utah, Washing- the cover may trick you into textbook approach to the sub-
book. Still, the constantly ton, and Wyoming. The orga- believing that this is your basic ject matter dully repetitious
technical language, organiza- nization is simple — each quilts-and-carvings picture after a few chapters. But the
tion, and size of this book will state's free attractions are listed book. But it is much, much book is never boring because
probably »make it a bit rough under the towns (which are al- more (as it should be at such a Florin frequently employs a
going for anybody below the phabetized) nearest to them. steep price!). It is, in fact, as the novelist's tools to introduce
advanced-amateur botanist Here's a free-attraction sam- subtitle states, "A Catalog of readers to the ghost towns —
level. ple, listed under Deming, New Material Culture." That is some dialogue, colorful character
That warning aside, this re- Mexico: "Gems for Free: In catchall phrase — and many sketches, and lots of legends
vised and expanded edition of Rock Hound State Park there paragraphs in the book are de- and speculation.
the book that was first pub- are none of the usual restric- voted to defining it and "folk Treasure hunters will enjoy
lished in 1945 covers almost tions about taking away art." Anyway, by the time you the many tales of lost and
500 trees and shrubs in the stones. In fact, you're encour- get to it, you shouldn't be sur- found fortunes, like that of Al-
Mojave, Colorado, Arizona, aged to dig for agates, jasper, prised that one of the chapters lison "Eilley" Orrum Hunter
and Chihuahuan deserts. It's and opals — and allowed to deals with houses (not what's Cowan Bowers of Gold Hill,
the result of 46 years of field cart off up to 15 pounds of in the houses, but the floor Nevada.
research by its botanist au- rocky treasure. Polished spec- plans and exteriors of the Ghost Town El Dorado is
thors. The book features 424 imens of rocks found in the houses themselves). packed with maps and black
black and white photographs park are on display. Time: Best "A folk house can be studied and white pictures of town re-
and drawings and 252 maps time is March during the Rock- as art because it is the material mains, though I found myself
that are highlighted for easy hound Round-up, one of the articulation of a specific design- occasionally wishing that the
geographic location of a spe- great rockhounding events in ing process," explains Tom author had included some his-
cies. There are also 95 full-color the state. Place: 14 miles south- Carter, author of the House torical photos of the towns dur-
photos in a separate section east of town via New Mexico 11 chapter. "A house is not folk ing their frenetic heydeys. The
near the end of the book. and access road. Contact: (505) because of the way it looks but comparison would have made'
One unique and very helpful 546-3847." because its basic plan is tradi- this book even more visually
design feature is that material Listings also frequently con- tional within the culture that ghostly.
of general interest — like key tain a "note" that gives an in- produced it." — Jacqueline Shannon
characteristics of plants and sider's hints. For example, in Put another way, in the

Cartua Cttg Cljrontck JULY 1982/DESERT 49


mistake. A long "beep" and a
constant light in the viewfinder
warn you when you should
use the built-in flash. When
you are either too close to focus
or beyond flash range, you
TIPS hear a series of short "beeps"
Better desert scenics and see a blinking light.
Large, empty areas in a pic- Add to that the fact that the
ture — particularly empty AF2-M is totally automatic and
foregrounds — are a big obsta- you've got one easy-to-use
cle to a good scenic picture. camera. It has automatic focus-
Remember that the next time ing, electronically programmed
you're high up on a mountain, auto-exposure, and automatic
aiming your camera at the des- film advance and power re-
ert floor. You need something in wind. The camera's standard
the foreground to give your lens is a 38mm f/2.8 and the
picture some depth. Without overall weight is 12-11/16
this depth, your picture will ounces without batteries. The
have no perspective — the retail price is about $139.
scene will look two-dimen- Minolta, Desert Dept., 101 Wil-
sional, flat. liams Dr., Ramsey, N.J. 07446.
Put the branches of a tree, or
another mountain, or a person
in the foreground and sud-
denly you've got three dimen-
sions. Now your family and
friends can get a real feel for
how far below, or how big, or
how endless that desert is.
Remember, though, that if Endura Cases
you're putting a person in Cases Incorporated recently
the foreground, that person introduced its 1982 line of En-
should take up just a small part dura camera cases. The line
of the picture and should not features new, stylish positive
be in the center. The person closing locks. The aluminum
also should be looking toward trim that secures the lid and
or at the scene you're photo- body has been improved to
graphing. If the person is too offer even greater dust and
large in the frame, is looking moisture resistance. A durable
at the camera, or both your padded handle has been added
viewer will be confused about to make heavy loads more
the point of the picture. He or comfortable to carry.
she will wonder whether it's By including part of the mountain in the "middleground," the photog- The Endura shells are made
supposed to be a portrait or a rapher gave this picture - shot from the top of the Palm Springs Aerial from a special blend of molded
scenic.' Tramway - an even better depth perspective. fiberglass that was designed to
resist tremendous abuse. The
company says that the shells
The system weighs 3V2 are so durable that the new
GEAR pounds and has a wooden car- Enduras feature replaceable lid
GlobuScope rying case. List price is $1,500. supports, locks, and handles.
Here's an out-of-the-ordi- GlobuScope, Inc., Desert Dept., Manufactured to last for
nary 35mm camera that's made One Union Square West, New years with just minimum care,
by a company of the same York, N.Y. 10003. the shells can be wiped with
name. The GlobuScope takes an oil-based substance — like
panoramic pictures. A revolv- furniture polish — to make
ing slit is synchronized with scratches and scuffs practically
an orbiting camera inside a disappear.
stainless-steel body to make The cases are lightweight,
exposures on a 35mm film but the company especially
cassette. recommends them as able to
The GlobuScope's 25mm withstand the rigors of air
super wide-angle lens takes travel.
the whole view, and the cam- With pre-cut foam interiors,
era was created for spectacu- the six-inch-deep Endura has
lar group or scenic pictures. Minolta AF2-M a suggested retail price of
(Sounds ideal for desert land- This compact 35mm range- $139.50; the eight-inch-deep
scapes.) Surprisingly, the cam- finder is just about foolproof — model, $149.50.
era uses no electricity or bat- and it constantly reminds you Cases Incorporated, California,
teries. It runs on something so. The AP2-M "sounds off" Desert Dept., 1745 West 134th
called built-in spring drive. when you're about to make a St., Gardena, Calif. 90249.

50 DESERT/JULY 1982 Cactus


From Desert, December 1939.

g
Q.
Tl
fD
Tl
C
13
0)
in
a

5S

<3

r
DESERT
MONSTER
T he gila monster (Heloderma
suspectum) of the
southwestern United
States and Sonora, and its
relative, the beaded lizard
the venom into the wound. The
venom is produced in glands in
the lower jaw and is expelled
into the mouth along grooves in
the lower teeth. The grooves act
(Heloderma horridum) of Mexico as ducts to carry the venom by
are the only known venomous capillary action into the wound,
lizards in the world. in contrast to the fangs of
At 12 to 16 inches in length, venomous snakes, which, like
both are large, heavy-bodied hypodermic needles, inject the
lizards with short, thick tails and venom directly into the flesh. A
are colored with gaudy patterns bit of folklore from the United
of black with pink, orange, or States is that the gila monster
yellow blotches. Their small, has no anus and produces its
round, closely set scales suggest venom from food decomposing
almost an Indian beadwork in the digestive tract.
appearance. Their normal While very few people have
habitat is semiarid country, died from the bite of a gila
especially desert woodlands and monster, it requires immediate
the vicinity of farms and medical aid. Symptoms of the
intermittent streams where they bite include sweating, nausea,
have access to water and damp thirst, sore throat, ringing in the
soil. Primarily nocturnal (active ears, weakness, rapid breathing,
at night), they prey upon small faintness, and collapse.
mammals, birds eggs, and Although formidable in
reptiles. appearance, these lizards are not
Gila monster venom is quite dangerous unless they're
strong and being bit by one is molested or handled. So don't
excruciatingly painful. The touch! In Arizona the gila
lizards usually bite as a monster is protected by law.
defensive action, and, indeed, Their range? They can be
most bites from gila monsters in found in extreme southwestern
this country result from careless Utah, the tip of Nevada to the
handling of captive lizards. eastern edge of the Colorado
When a gila monster does bite, River, and south to New Mexico
its strong jaws hold on and chew and Sonora, Mexico. •

Text by Karen Sausman


Illustration by Andrew Steuer III

52 DESERT/JULY 1982
r
\
r L
4
• ^

n *7i

fu
Where, what, and why this was Anza-Borrego's
best show ever

California's
Wildflower Finale Text and photos by Michael Vlassis

B esides
dealing out extreme summer
heat and strong winds, the harsh
this past spring — for a view of
the spectacle. Desert Magazine,
too, took to the road to give
desert climate provides only two those of you who missed it a
or three inches of rainfall a year, last look at the fantastic,
and that's not every year. The extraordinarily green spring
winter water is enough, though, of 1982.
to start an explosion of growth When many people think of
almost every spring. And it's desert flowers, they think of the
always worth a drive and a few flowers of cacti. Desert cactus
rolls of film. That was especially flowers definitely are some of
true this year. the most beautiful and vibrantly
The winter of 1981-82 was one colored in the world. But this
of the coldest and wettest month, in the pages that follow,
winters in recent history. I'll be showing you the other
California deserts received their side of the desert's flower life. I
share of it. Rain fell in surprising concentrated on the soft, gentle
quantities and many people flowers — many of them annuals
claim that the resulting flower — that grow from seeds each
crop was the best they've seen in spring if there is enough rain.
20 years. While taking my own pictures,
That's why thousands of RVs, I watched many of you stop by
vans, and cars filled desert roads the side of the road, making

54 DESERT/JULY 1982
frequent use of your binoculars only in one place and in very
or cameras, like the gentleman limited numbers. To find these
with the white Mercedes. But I hidden jewels, you must drive
hope that he and the rest of you on dirt roads and do a bit of
flower sightseers went further walking.
than the side of the road, The purple field at sunset,
because a great many of the however, was visible from the
wildflowers — some of which main road (Highway S2). It's a
you'll see in the coming pages — field of thistle sage (Salvia
grow in small clusters hidden carduacea), a member of the
from view. A few species grow mint family.

JULY 1982/DESERT 55
Site of San Felipe""
Butterfield Stage Station

178'
Julian" MAJOR ROADS AND HIGHWAYS
PRIMITIVE ROAD
HIKING TRAIL
•••••• HISTORICAL TRAIL ROUTE
(TRAIL NO LONGER EXISTS)
v
' — - CREEK

• RANGER STATION

'Morteros CAMPGROUND
Marshall South A PRIMITIVE CAMPGROUND

P^ Cuyamaca
Reservoir
Oriflamme Mtn.
El. 4611
Laguna
Recreation Area
Home

Vaflecito


POINT OF INTEREST
GAS AND SUPPLIES
Troutman Mtn. County Park
EL. 2108 "V.

A will take you to the park and be near numerous trails. A


Borrego Desertm State
mnza-
Park is headquarters. Or, to reach our couple of hundred feet south of
approximately three hours from next stop, take Highway S2 the Stage Trail Ranch, on the
Los Angeles and two from San south from Highway 78 for four opposite side of the road, is
Diego. From Interstate 8 take miles. You should then see the North Pinyon Road. It will take
Highway 79 north to Highway Stage Trail Ranch, which is an you about four miles toward the
78 east. Then Highway S2 north RV Park. You can camp there Pinyon Mountains.
56 DESERT/JULY 1982
I I he beautiful
white prickly poppy is large (five
to six inches in diameter) and so
last year to teach visitors where
to go and what plants and
animals to see without investing
textured that it looks as if it was in an expensive vehicle. She
made of paper and cloth. Part of takes you on your tour in your
the poppy family, its real name own car, and says that almost
is Argemone corymbosa. And how any standard car, when driven
do I know such an esoteric with care, can handle the
name? Well I cheated a little. I majority of dirt roads in the
had the benefit of a guide, Pat park. Flanagan's naturalist
Flanagan, at right. She's a „ service operates from November
biologist and naturalist who not to May, and you can get a
only supplied me with the brochure and rates by writing to
names and locations of all the Anza-Borrego Desert Tours, Box
desert flowers, but knew their 301, BSR, Julian, Calif. 92036.
natural history and sex habits, as Both the white prickly poppy
well. and the variety of mallow,
Flanagan, who has worked for pictured next to Flanagan, were
Anza-Borrego State Park, started found in Oriflamme Canyon just
the Rent-A-Naturalist service one mile off Highway S2.

JULY 1982/DESERT 57
N I orth Pinyon
Road has a gentle grade and is in
the center of an alluvial fan.
When water flows out of
mountain canyons it erodes the
mountains, opens up into a fan
shape, and deposits most of its
particulate matter to create
alluvial fans, which are millions
of years old.
Superimposed on alluvial fans
are braided streams, drainage
systems that are shallow washes
from recent rainstorms. Braided
streams have sandy channels,
such as the one I stood on to take
the picture at left. We're
overlooking a dry lake bed, and
across from us is another alluvial
fan, which has its origins in the
Granite Mountains. The houses
and road are part of the
community of Earthquake
Valley, now renamed Shelter
Valley by real estate developers
who want to make sales easier.
The braided streams carry
seeds and this winter's rains
persuaded the majority of them
to flower. The most prominent
flower, however, is pictured at
right. It's the desert monkey
flower (orMimulus bigelovii) of
the figwort family. The monkey
flower needs well-drained soil —
usually sand — in order to grow.
It has a single straight root, two
to three inches long, with no
root hair because there is no
humidity nearby. It is hard to
predict where the monkey
flower will grow from year
to year.

58 DESERT/JULY 1982
B
HT - •'fir''. *
1
i

Bf'j
9
- ' .
.

'
• '

/

• /
' / • • •

* •
'

'

t I he desert soil
is too dry for bacterial growth, so
the recycling of plant matter,
^ ^
• - — —
which happens so quickly in the
woods, is very slow in the
\
! P*5
5 ^ •
M desert. Dead vegetation, like this
• '- dry cactus stem on the sandy
bed of a braided stream, top, acts
«•
as a valuable trap for soil, water,
nutrients, and seeds.
• 1 Around the cactus stem,
in addition to the colorful desert
j
,_ monkey flower, we found white
^•«* i desert stars (Monoptilon bellwides)
of the sunflower family and
1 ft Ik*' purple mat (Nama demissum) of
the waterleaf family.
The small flowered primrose,
••p middle photo, is of the evening
primrose family.
Almost impossible to detect
while you're standing, the desert
calico (Langloisia matthewsii),
bottom photo, is of the phlox
family and blends with the dirt
and gravel.

60 DESERT/JULY 1982
long with
green grass and stereo music,
some Californians like to carry
the beach with them to the
desert. This group, at left,
camped right in the small stream
of Grapevine Canyon and
enjoyed a perfect April day with
sunny skies and 90-degree dry
heat. Just a short walk away
grows this extraterrestrial-
looking, scaly-stemmed sand
plant (Pholisma arenarium),
pictured above, of the lennoa
family. This is a parasitic plant —
it usually feeds off of the roots of
cheesebush.

JULY 1982/DESERT 61
M I y favorite
desert plant is the ocotillo. I shot
the one above at sunset while
The flower lacks a landing
platform for insects and bees
can't hover. In addition, the
heading east on Highway 78, tubular flower is too long for the
which is lined for miles with short mouths of insects. And
thousands of them. insects can't see red — the color
The ocotillo has spines and of the ocotillo flower. They see
sprouts green leaves after a good ultraviolet. So it's the
rainstorm. The leaves can grow hummingbird, with its long bill
any time of year, but the plant and ability to see red, that
flowers only in the spring. It's a pollinates the ocotillo.
common misconception that the There is plenty of nectar to
ocotillo is a cactus — but it does supply the energy needs of the
not have a succulent's stalk like a hummingbird. Indians were
cactus does, and its spines are known to use this ocotillo nectar
very different. Ocotillo spines as a sweet. They harvested and
are the hardened petiole (stems) ground the seeds, as well. Ants
of the first leaves of new growth. also harvest the seeds —
All of the new leaves that follow, stripping off the hairy coats
in response to rain, are stemless before storing the seeds
and grow in the axil between the underground.
spine and the stalk.

62 DESERT/JULY 1982
Camping in
Anza-Borrego
Courtesy of the California
Department of Parks and Recreation
The park contains two
developed family campgrounds
— one near park headquarters at
Borrego Palm Canyon (25 sites)
and one at Tamarisk Grove (25
sites). The sites at these
campgrounds contain tables,
wood stoves, shade ramadas,
and cupboards; water and
restrooms with flush toilets are
nearby. Wood fuel is sold at the
park, or bring your camp stove
and fuel. Vacation trailers up to
24 feet long and motor homes up
to 31 feet can use these sites.
Campers with motor homes,
trailers, or pickup campers may
prefer to use the trailer area at
Borrego Palm Canyon. Its
paved "pull-through" parking
spaces have connections for
water, electricity, and sewage.
This area is not suitable for tent
camping.
If you are planning to camp in
one of Anza-Borrego's
developed or trailer campsites
on a weekend or holiday during
the winter, reservations are
recommended. Ask the ranger
for reservation information or
call (916) 445-8828.
Primitive campgrounds are
scattered throughout the park.
Facilities there include only pit
or chemical toilets and trash cans
— you must bring your own
water. In addition, you are
welcome to camp anywhere
along park roads or designated
or shape and them. Plan to visit them next routes of travel.
color, one of my favorite flowers spring in person . . . and don't There is also a group
is the apricot mallow (Sphaeralcea forget your camera. For the campground located at Borrego
ambigua) of the mallow family. information of camera buffs, I Palm Canyon that will
It's pictured at right and above, used an 85mm lens with accommodate up to 120 campers.
co-existing with the hairy lotus lV2-inch extension tube for all of For more information, contact
bush of the pea family. the close-ups. park headquarters. •
I hope you enjoyed this Look for our cactus
parade of gentle desert flowers flowers presentation later this
as much as I enjoyed shooting year.D

64 DESERT/JULY 1982
• »:** . - . < & • * $ *

Along the
Indian Detours Trail
The dust of the frontier was just settling when this upstart
touring company began kicking it up again
By Albert D. Manchester
Photos courtesy of the Museum of New Mexico

66 DESERT/ JULY 1982


-

O n the 15th of May, 1926, a


new Packard Eight
touring car rumbled out
of the railroad station in Las
Vegas, New Mexico, en route to
middle-class Americans.
Awaiting them were some
still-obscure corners of the
map, pueblos occupied by real
Indians, Spanish mountain
Two Harveycars - a Cadillac
touring car and a Cadillac sedan
-arrive at Black Mesa, south of
Espanola, NM. By 1929, after
the Indian Detours had been in
Sante Fe by way of Glorieta villages, and magnificent natural
Pass. There were several wonders. Until the Indian business for three years, cars
snappily dressed tourists in the Detours hit the trail, most of the could be hired by individuals for
open car, a young woman guide, Southwest had been out of reach $100 a day to take them almost
and a chauffeur who looked as if of the average traveler, who had anyplace in the Southwest.
he had been outfitted by Zane no reasonable means for getting
Grey. This was the maiden trip far away from the railroad
of a new touring business called towns. Now, powerful, reliable
the Indian Detours, and it was cars were at their disposal,
breaking a dusty trail for comfortable hotels, good food
thousands of tourists who would . . . and a romantic sense of
follow in the years to come. adventuring among ancient
New Mexico — and by 1929 peoples and on untrodden
the rest of the Southwest — was paths.
about to be rediscovered by a It was an exciting time to get
new group of adventurers: off the beaten trail in the
JULY 1982/DESERT 67
WHK6tti&&?*

Inspecting and admiring Southwest. Although the Grand Canyon for the Harvey
pottery at Indian pueblos was window to the Old West was people. The vast Southwest
popular with most "dudes." The closing, a perceptive visitor intrigued him, as he thought it
company discouraged the drivers could still look through it to see must intrigue others, and he
— like this one, who is correctly images of an earlier day. The came to envision motorcar tours
Indian Wars were a living across the beautiful land. He
attired as a cowboy —from memory, and men who had presented the idea to his
speaking with the tourists. Their fought in the Lincoln County employers and the managers of
orders: "Keep your hands on the range war were still spry the Santa Fe Railroad. They liked
machinery, your eyes on and mean. the idea so much that they put
the road." The Indian Detours was an Clarkson in charge of the entire
outgrowth of the Harvey House operation.
restaurant and hotel chain, a Major Clarkson set up
business that had followed the headquarters in Santa Fe, just a
railroads across the West, block south of the plaza. The
providing decent food and nine Packard Eight touring cars
lodging for train travelers. Even he bought were garaged there,
prior to World War I, the Harvey too, along with two small buses
business had offered motor trips for larger tours. Clarkson moved
along the rim of the Grand ahead quickly but with military
Canyon from the lodges and thoroughness. Nothing was left
hotels it operated there. In the to chance. Drivers and guides
early 1920s, a young, war- were hired with care and trained
decorated British expatriate, well, advertising brochures were
Major R. Hunter Clarkson, was sent out across the country, and
in charge of transportation at the accommodations for tourists

68 DESERT/JULY 1982
'• ;

were found and booked. The tourists. The boys were not A small Harveycoach visits
Indian Detours was planned as a allowed to smoke, drink, or San Ildefonso pueblo, where
class operation, in keeping with chew in the presence of the tourists admire a group of Indian
the high standards of the Harvey dudes, nor did they even talk to children framed between couriers.
House business and the Santa Fe them very much. Legend has it Although most of the tourists
Railroad. that the Santa Fe Railroad was
not beneath sending vampy were intelligent and kind, the
The Detours chauffeurs were couriers had to keep their cools in
all local boys. They knew the tourists on the trail to see if the
country, which was absolutely boys could be enticed beyond the face of some abjectly stupid
essential because the roads were endurance. "They'd just throw it questions and occasional
primitive and there were few in your face," recalls one of the rudeness. The company was
road signs. Local citizens were drivers with nostalgic wonder. known to send "spy dudes" on
not beyond taking the wooden The drivers were expected to be the tours to make sure the women
signs home for kindling, one of strong and silent. . . and stoic. treated the dudes with courtesy.
the retired drivers remembers. In the early days the Detours
Some of the ex-chauffeurs still drivers had only dirt or graveled
live in the Santa Fe area and roads to drive on, rickety bridges
enjoy recalling those early days or none at all, and some of the
along the Detours trail. switchbacks in the mountains
Each driver was dressed in a were so sharp that the boys were
Tom Mix-style ten-gallon hat, forced to back up in the curves
silk neckerchief, colorful shirt, for a second run, a maneuver
riding breeches, and high boots, likely to send chills through
a uniform guaranteed to thrill flatlander dudes. They drove
the "dudes," as the young men across all of the Southwest in all
irreverently christened the seasons, in snow and rain and

JULY 1982 /DESERT 69


A courier and a local farm boy dust and mud. During the The couriers had a uniform of
help the driver lever a Cadillac millions of miles they logged over their own that included a soft,
out of the mud. Every Harveycar the years no dude was lost in the wide-brimmed hat with the
was equipped with this wilderness for good, and none Indian Detours insignia
emergency gear: a distributor, was killed in an accident. attached, a brightly colored
The Indian Detours drivers velveteen or corduroy blouse
spark plugs, a tool packet, spare were capable young men who patterned after those worn by
tires, a tarp for traction in sand, a inspired confidence in the city the Navajos, a practical skirt,
shovel, and an axe. slickers who rode with them and sturdy walking shoes.
across mountain and desert. Jodphurs and boots could be
"Couriers" were in the car to substituted for rough country or
do the talking for the drivers. climbing among Indian ruins.
They were young women Plenty of clanking silver and
guides, all college educated, but turquoise jewelry, including a
from varying backgrounds and squash blossom necklace,
parts of the country. They concho belt, and bracelets
were given crash courses by completed the distinctive,
recognized authorities in local attractive outfit.
geology, history, anthropology, Several of the ex-couriers still
and the arts and crafts of the live in the Santa Fe area.
Indian and Spanish peoples of Trekking across the boondocks,
the Southwest. When they were one of them recalls, taught the
deemed ready for the trail, they women a lot of self-reliance. She
were expected to lecture at high was on a trip to Taos when one
speed about virtually anything of the leaf springs of their
encountered along the way. Cadillac touring car broke. Her

70 DESERT/JULY 1982
••W.*

driver was new at the game. Detours through the 1930s — A couple of tour cars climbing
After he scratched his head and were part of the daily routine. out of the northern entrance of
stared at the slumping machine Major Clarkson kept several New Mexico's Chaco Canyon.
for a time, he admitted that, by mechanics busy, and there were This road is not much better
golly, as far as he was concerned checklists for the drivers to go today, but most of the Indian
they were good and stuck. through when they brought the
cars in, and again before the cars Detours can now be duplicated on
The courier found some baling paved roads.
wire, and then, just off the road, went out. Failure to adhere to
she located a piece of driftwood the mandated procedures for
on the rocky shore of the Rio maintenance was tantamount to
Grande. The wood was wedged immediate dismissal. Dudes
in under the car body and wired were not to be injured, lost, or
in place. They drove into Taos, stranded through simple
where the local mechanics and carelessness.
blacksmiths pronounced the jury The Indian Detours would
rig as good as they could have have been impossible without
devised until the car could be the dudes. In fact, the Detours
driven to Santa Fe for a new came along at what may have
spring! been the only time in our history
To be sure, the drivers and when such a venture could have
couriers did not often have to been supported. Ten years
"get out and get under." before, neither the roads nor the
Maintenance and preventive machines were up to the mark.
maintenance of the Packards — Ten years later, in the mid-1930s
and later the Cadillacs, which and in the midst of an economic
became the workhorses of the calamity, fun had gone out of

JULY 1982/DESERT 71
i
Indian-

^O^Sr^J
?xf^^^

^2S
^' FBI. IOL£.<?\ •
c u r r OWELUN or

^rc' rru

ALBUQUEEQUE
* ALVAEADO

This map, circa 1935, is from a style for most folks . . . if it edge. Armed with Kodaks,
brochure sent around the country cost money. Americans set out to discover
to advertise the Indian Detours. In the mid-1920s, however, their beautiful continent. This
The heavy gray line indicates fun seemed to be the national was America's adolescence, and
some of the sites visited on the destiny. Middle-class America Americans looked at the land
tours to Taos. was affluent, there was a war to with youthful wonder. Ennui
forget, and changing social was not one of their attitudes;
values had set everybody on and, whatever other faults the

71 DESERT/JULY 1982
people of that day had, taking Pajarito Plateau. Part of the ride
things for granted was not one to Taos followed the canyon of
of them. the Rio Grande. Once in Taos,
The wealthy and the famous the dude visited local artists, the
of the period, and some foreign chapel at Ranchos de Taos, and
visitors, risked the Wild West in the Indian pueblo of San
the rear seats of Harveycars. Geronimo de Taos. On the
One ex-driver recalls that he was return trip, stops were made at
the favorite chauffeur of Andre the Spanish mountain villages
Kostelanetz and his wife Lily of Truchas and Cordova, and
Pons, who eventually came to finally at the religious sanctuary
own a house in Santa Fe. of Chimayo, a modest adobe
That same driver remembers mission church. Then back to
exploring the Four Corners area Santa Fe, the railroad, and the
with two wealthy women from 20th century. That tour,
Philadelphia for the better part including lodging and meals,
of three months. cost $45 in 1929 — a lot of
Although the first Detours adventure per mile per dollar,
were concentrated in northern even by the standards of
New Mexico, by 1929 the tours the time.
had spread out all across the 1929 came and went. The
map of the Southwest. By that Great Depression gained
time a long-range "land cruise" momentum as the 1930s
could be organized to poke into matured. A lot of the dudes had
virtually any part of the to stay home to watch the shop,
Southwest where a reasonable if they still had a shop to watch.
road or trail could be discerned. Trips were cut from the Indian
By then, too, dudes were being Detours. The equipment started
picked up at other points along to age. The national highway
the Santa Fe Railroad, such as system improved through the
Winslow, Ariz., where they 1930s until it was a practical idea
were lodged at La Posada. for the average family to drive
The influence of the Indian out West in their own car. Then
Detours on the Southwest World War II came and the
cannot be minimized, although Detours stopped altogether for
few people today are aware of lack of gas and tires. Although
the entire story. The first the business was revived after
generation of Americans to the war — tours were conducted
explore the Southwest into the early 1950s — it was not
comfortably, as tourists, did so the high-toned operation of the
with the Indian Detours. The early days. The glitter had long
20th century arrived in many since faded from the original
parts of the Southwest in a dream.
Harvey car. The Detours was a colorful
A brief, planned excursion touring business that happened
from a long cross-country train along at just the right time and
trip was the mainstay of the place. There was never another
Indian Detours. The cost of the quite like it in this country. And
tours included all expenses. Tour although the dudes missed the
number six, for example, was an frontier, they, too, were
overnight jaunt to Taos. On the pioneers in their own way. If the
way up from Santa Fe, the dudes Indian Detours has an image of
passed by Black Mesa, visited its own, it is probably that of the
the modern Indian pueblos of early days . . . the dusty touring
Santa Clara and San Ildefonso, car, the colorful chauffeur and
and climbed among the ruins courier, and the natty dudes, all
and cliff dwellings at Puye on heading for a distant pass on a
the southern escarpment of the dirt road. D

JULY 1982/DESERT 73
Moving to the Desert

This medium-sized oasis is drawing new residents —


and not just by military order!

29 Palms, California
Text and photos by Marvin Patchen

After World War I, the U.S. California's San Bernardino 29 Palms' broad Adobe Avenue
government searched for a place County, the town is in a broad is one of the two principle streets
offering clean air, sunshine, and valley between the Bullion, Little that serve the shopping needs of
low humidity so that those San Bernardino, and Pinto the community. Residents must
suffering lung damage from gas Mountains and next to the travel 25 miles to Yucca Valley for
attacks could recuperate. They 558,000-acre Joshua Tree
settled on 29 Palms. It was an National Monument. the major department stores and
oasis that had been discovered in In 1927, Frank and Helen car dealerships, but all other
1855, and the nearby Dale Mines Bagley established the area's first major needs can be fulfilled in 29
had yielded more than $3 million store in a garage that also served Palms. The mountains in the
in gold by 1900. as their home. The Bagley store background are part of the half-
The government proved to became the focal point for 29 million-acre Joshua Tree
have made a correct choice: 90 Palms homesteaders, with part National Monument.
percent of the injured men of the store devoted to a post
recovered. The community office and a tiny library. A well
became noted as having the was nearby and the pioneer
perfect climate for those with families would routinely stop at
respiratory problems. Bagleys for mail, provisions,
Located in Southern water, and the local gossip.
74 DESERT/JULY 1982
the perfect showcase for Real Estate
(second homes, ranches, etc.) and
art advertisements in . . . DESERT TREASURES
Tucson, Arizona
Six acres, with views of Sabino Canyon
and the rugged Catalina Mountains, sur-
round this three-level contemporary
home of six bedrooms and five and a half
baths. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the liv-
ing room open to the desert landscape,
and a fireplace and wet bar add their
cheer. On the lower level is a game room
with fireplace wall and wet bar, which
leads to a patio with a 50-foot pool. The
master suite, with its huge double bath,
Roman tub and shower, also has its own
fireplace. Brochure. $1,000,000
MILLER HOMES
4800 Sabino Canyon Rd.
(602) 749-5544
Tucson, AZ 85715

Tucson, Arizona
Nearly four acres seclude this romantic
adobe residential compound in Catalina
Foothills Estates. Walled patios surround
the main house — an authentic Jorseler
creation — and a breezeway leads to a
three-room guest house. There is a brick
caretaker's house, as well. Within, high-
planked ceilings, three fireplaces and col-
orful floors of flagstone, tile and painted
concrete create a true Southwestern aura.
The master suite has two sitting rooms,
one with a fireplace and the other open-
ing to a patio and a 40-foot pool. Brochure
HH-715424. $650,000

PREVIEWS INC.
5670 Wilshire Blvd.
(213) 937-0703
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Tucson, Arizona
On more than three acres with a four-
stall horse barn and three fenced exercise
runs, this adobe ranch home centers on a
beamed living room with fireplace and
views of the Catalina Mountains. Along
with three family bedrooms, three and a
half baths, and separate maid's quarters,
there's a family room overlooking an
adobe-walled heated pool and patio with
the city lights far below. There's also a
separate guest house with bath and
beamed ceiling. $329,000

PETER W. WARE
GIBSON & WARE REALTY ASSOC.
2700 N. Campbell Ave. - _ , •

(602) 323-9393
or 299-3211
Tucson, AZ 85719
In 1940, the army established a traveled to Banning to meet the This 29 Palms home is in the
glider training base at the nearby train from Los Angeles. This "custom" price range, but most
Mesquite Dry Lake, which later driver was armed with various housing prices are within the
became a fighter base. After shopping lists of items to buy in budgets of moderate-income
World War II, the Navy and the Banning stores because they
Marines took over the base and were unavailable at Bagleys. families.
the operations have grown ever The moderate cost of housing
since. The base population is is the prime reason that many
now 7,500. choose to live in 29 Palms. Some
Outside the base, today's desert locales target on higher-
population is approximately income groups, offering many
11,500. Although 29 Palms has luxury homes. 29 Palms does
but a few major chain stores, have some fine homes with
there is no lack of the usual appealing architecture, but the
services and businesses. There is ratio is small compared to many
also a fire department, a sheriff's other desert localities. Much of
department, and complete the housing has been designed
health, recreation, legal, and to appeal to moderate income
library services. and military families who prefer
Public transportation needs to live off the base.
are served by buses that go to For those who prefer acreage
Palm Springs and Los Angeles. there are numerous small cabins
The community also has taxis or homes in the outlying areas.
and a new commuter airline. Some are served with wells or
This is a far cry from the 1930s electricity, others are not. A shell
and '40s, when transportation cabin with five acres but no
and shopping were handled by a water will cost about $3,500 to
station wagon driver who $7,000, according to Barbara
76 DESERT /JULY 1982
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Reed of Libby's Realty in 29
Palms (she supplied much of the 29 Palms, California
real estate information for this
article). Reed says a livable home Schools Kindergarten — 12th grade
in an outlying area on five Two-year community college
acres with a well runs around Four-year private college
$35,000.
Aside from moderate housing Water Within water district, wells have
costs and having the beautiful been drilled throughout district.
Joshua Tree National Monument Outside district, must drill own well
for a front yard, the more or less if geographically possible. If not,
laid-back attitude of the must install underground water
community appeals to many, but tank, which is filled by trucks.
angers some. Whereas 25 miles Churches 20
to the west booming Yucca
Valley vibrates with rapid TV Cable TV available in some areas
growth, large department stores, KDHI-AM (country-we stern)
and industry, 29 Palms grows at Radio
a slower pace. Although it is KQYN-FM (rock)
unincorporated, an elected Utilities Electric, butane, telephone
community council acts in an
advisory role. It is said that the Summer Cooling Evaporative cooling — $40-50 per
"city fathers" have fostered a Costs (Avg.) month
slow-growth policy, but that, Central air conditioning — $200-300
gradually, new blood is being per month
elected and a new attitude is Clubs and Organizations 72
beginning to emerge.
Parks and Recreation Two parks — 9-hole golf course and
Who are the people who have swimming pool
elected to call 29 Palms home? It
is estimated that between 25 and Elevation 2,000 feet
50 percent of the residents are Temperature Range Summer low/high average — 67-100°
retired. A major attraction for Winter low/high average —
retired military personnel is that 36.2-63.8°
they can take advantage of lower
prices by shopping at the base Spring low/high average — 40-70°
PX. Other retirees come for the In-Town Housing Costs Small 3-bedroom — $48,000-55,000
combination of desert beauty 1,280-1,600 sq. ft. home —$68,000-
and healthful climate. 78,000
Those who need employment 2,200 sq. ft. home —about $95,000
pretty much have to create their Custom deluxe home — $100,000-
own jobs by opening a business 125,000
or finding civil service work at Building Cost $42-48 per sq. ft.
the base or with county
government. Because of the slow (New Construction)
population growth, and because Lot Cost in Town $3,500-7,500
the town already has almost
every practical business, only More Information Chamber of Commerce
two new possibilities have been P.O. Box 1164
suggested by locals: Any 29 Palms, Calif. 92277
community can always use (714) 367-3445
another good restaurant and
additional mobile home parks activities are the big news. The beliefs. The majority are self-
could be built to relieve the near only time people seem to get reliant. They are repulsed by <
capacity that now exists. worked up is when a utility excessive bureaucracy.
Reading back issues of The proposes some high lines or For those considering a move
Desert Trail, the town's fine facility that could spoil the to the desert, 29 Palms could be
weekly newspaper, reveals the town's visual and air quality. too big or too small. . . or it
community's tempo and Most of the people are could, perhaps, present the
attitudes. Vehicle accidents, individualistic and not at all perfect balance for living in
school sports, and local club timid about speaking their the desert. •
78 DESERT/JULY 1982
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Calendar
12th Annual Jim Butler Days, May 27-31, Annual Green Faire and Arts and Crafts
at various locations in Tonopah, Nev. Festival, June 4-6, at Red Rock State Park
Activities include dances, a parade, in Church Rock, N.M. For details,
Liars Contest, gunfighters, and more. contact Martin Link, Mgr., P.O. Box 328,
It's more FUN when For details, contact the Tonopah Church Rock, N.M. 87311, or call (505)
you DRIVE — Cheaper, too! Chamber of Commerce, 301 Brougher 722-5564.
St., Tonopah, Nev. 89409, or call
Let SANBORN'S handle your (702) 482-3859.
Mexico vehicle insurance. We're the San Bernardino County Historical Bottle &
biggest — and best — in this business. Collectibles Club 14th Annual Show and
Write for our free Mexico Trip- Yucca Valley's Annual Grubstake Days, Sale, June 5-6, at the County
Planner. Lots of good, practical info May 28-31, on Highway 62, east of the Fairgrounds in Victorville, Calif. Hours:
plus samples of our famous mile-by- 5th, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 6th, 9 a.m. to 3
mile MEXICO ^TRAVELOG.
K-Mart in Yucca Valley, Calif. All-day
events include a carnival, parade, art p.m. For more information, contact
festival, and a golf tournament. For Gary Crabtree, P.O. Box 3843, San
details, contact the Yucca Valley Bernardino, Calif. 92413, or call (714)
Chamber of Commerce, 7211 Joshua 884-6596.
Mexico Insurance Service Lane, Suite 8, Yucca Valley, Calif. 92284,
- Since 1 9 4 8 - or call Nancy Wilson at (714) 365-6323. 16th Annual Rockatomics Gem & Mineral
Box 1210 * McAllen, TX 78502-9985 Show, June 5-6, at 8500 Fallbrook Ave.,
(512) 682-3401 Golden State Roundup, Annual Square Canoga Park, Calif. Hours: 5th, 10 a.m.
Dance Festival, May 28-30, at the Civic to 8 p.m.; 6th, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The
Auditorium in San Francisco, Calif. show includes exhibits, dealers,
Activities include square dancing and demonstrations, and a country store.
round dancing, plus exhibitions. Hours: For details, contact George Cogswell,
28th, 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; 29th, 10 7338 Mason Ave., Canoga Park, Calif.
a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; 30th, 10 a.m. to 11 91306, or call (213) 348-8392.
p.m. For information and details,
contact Parker or Jill Brown, 1587 Cactus and Succulent Show and Sale, June
Mizzen Lane, Half Moon Bay, 5-6, at the San Bernardino County
Calif. 94019. Museum, 2024 Orange Tree Lane, San
Bernardino, Calif. Hours: 5th, 10 a.m. to
Newberry Springs Art Show, May 29-30, 5 p.m.; 6th, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. This show
at the Community Center Building in and sale is sponsored by the Gates
Newberry Springs, Calif. Hours: 10 Cactus and Succulent Society. For
RAISED RELIEF MAPS a.m. to 5 p.m., both days. This is a fine details, contact Doris Lutz, 1228 Lugo,
SHOW A LOT MORE . . . of the terrain arts show open to all artists residing in Apt. B, San Bernardino, Calif. 92404, or
of the eastern/western regions of the the upper desert. For information, call (714) 885-7692.
U. S. Mainland and Hawaii. contact the Newberry Springs Art Club,
See the Adirondacks, Appalachians, Rockies,
Sierras and other great outdoor areas in 3-D. P.O. Box 23, Newberry Springs, Sunset Days, June 11-19, in Sunset,
Printed in 6 colors, these 22"x33" maps each Calif. 92365. Utah. Activities include a pageant,
represent approximately 70x110 miles and marathon, rodeo, and carnival. For
provide accurate visual information about:
Wooded areas — Mountains, hills and valleys Memorial Day Pow Wow, May 29-31, in more information, call (801) 825-6202.
— Streams, lakes and reservoirs — Elevation River Park on Grant St., in Lebanon,
contours — Political boundaries — Urban Second National Solar Cook-Off, June 12,
areas and roads — Landmarks.
Ore. This event is sponsored by the All
Reference for: Fishing — hunting — skiing — Rockhounds Pow Wow Club of America at McCormick Railroad Park in
camping — backpacking — flying. and activities will include tailgaters, Scottsdale, Ariz. Solar cooker
Send coupon for free index map/order form. swappers, entertainment, and potluck enthusiasts are invited to bring their
dinners. For more information, contact cookers and favorite recipes for the
H U D D A R D Northbrook, IL60062 Nadine Greenlee, 7043 S. Clement, cooking contests. Also included are
Please send FREE descriptive information. Tacoma, Wash. 98409. displays and exhibits. For information,
contact the Arizona Solar Energy
Name. Annual Pioneer Days Celebration, June Association, P.O. Box 25396, Phoenix,
3-6, at the Curry County Fairgrounds in Ariz. 85002, or call Doris Stutzman at
Address.
Clovis, N.M. For more information, (602)993-2649.
City .State. -Zip. contact J. R. Spencer, Clovis Chamber
(Dealer inquiries invited) DM of Commerce, 215 Main St., Drawer C, Old Fort Days, June 8-13, at Fort
Clovis, N.M. 88101. Sumner, N.M. Events include a beauty
80 DESERT/JULY 1982
pageant, parade, junior rodeo, BBQ, Fairgrounds, Prineville, Ore. Dealer
fiddlers contest, and much more. For booths, rock auctions, field trips, and
details, contact Fort Sumner Chamber much more will be included in the
of Commerce, Fort Sumner, N.M. 88119. events. For more information, call (503)
447-6760, or write, Prineville Six
Annual Fiesta at Mission San Antonio, Rockhound Pow Wow Association, P.O. exhibit halls
June 13, in Jolon, Calif. After Mass, Box 671, Prineville, Ore. 97754. dedicated to the
from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., there is a BBQ horse. From early Greek
and dance. For more information, 1982 Reno Rodeo, June 22-27, in Reno, to modern times.
contact San Antonio Mission, Jolon, Nev. The country's largest added
Calif. 93928, or call (408) 385-4478. money rodeo will include bronc,
bareback, and bull riding; calf roping;
Tigua Saint Anthony's Day Ceremony, steer wrestling; and much more. For
June 13, at the Tigua Reservation near El details and ticket information, contact
Paso, Texas. Special ceremonies and Connie Emerson, 1055 W. Moana Lane,
dances will be presented. For details, Suite 200, Reno, Nev. 89509, or call (702)
call (915) 859-3916. 826-0600.

"Texas," June 16-Aug. 21, in the Pioneer Utah Arts Festival, June 23-27, in Salt
Amphitheatre in Palo Duro Canyon Lake City, Utah. Program includes
State Park, near Amarillo and Canyon, performing and visual arts, crafts
Texas. This musical drama of Texas demonstrations, children's art yards,
history will be held on Monday through and international cuisine. For details,
Saturday nights. For information and call (801) 533-5895. Original Remingtons • Russell
reservations, call (806) 655-2181, or Bronze • One of Four Kachina
write P.O. Box 268, Canyon, Texas The Santa Fe Festival Theatre, June Chess Sets in The World • West-
79015. 28-Aug. 29, at The Armory for the Arts, e r n T r e a s u r e s Valued at
1050 Old Pecos Trail, Santa Fe, N.M. $1,000,000.
Golden Spike Oldtime Fiddlers Contest & The season includes three plays: "Wild Fine Indian crafts for sale in the gift shop.
Bluegrass Festival, June 17-19, in Ogden, Oats, " "Wings," and "Amerika." For
Utah. Events include national reservation information and a free Just 60 miles south of Tucson on S-83
competitions and concerts day and brochure, contact The Festival Theatre, in historic Patagonia, Arizona
night. For information, call (801) P.O. Box DD, Santa Fe, N.M. 87502, or Open daily 9 to 5
399-8288. call (505) 983-9400. Your host: Anne Stradling

Gem and Mineral Exhibits at the 1982 Annual Butterfield Trail Days, July 3-4, at
Southern California Exposition, June the Luna County Courthouse Park in
18-July 5, at the Del Mar Fairgrounds in Deming, N.M. Festivities include a "I guarantee
Del Mar, Calif. Features include
gemstone faceting, creation of jewelry,
parade, flea market, watermelon-eating
contest, pet show, and BBQ. For more
mD&EMM \nill
and many other exhibits. For information, contact Mike Levine, P.O. make your Rl/or Boat
information, contact Fairgrounds, Del Box 850, Deming, N.M. 88031.
Mar, Calif. 92014, or call (714) 755-6940 Refrigerator cool
or(714)275-2705. Hopi Craftsman Show, July 3-7, at the
Museum of Northern Arizona in
better and faster!"
Aztec Fiesta Days, June 18-20, in Aztec, Flagstaff, Ariz. For information, call
N.M. Activities include parade, arts and (602) 774-5211.
crafts fair, raft races, and a junior rodeo.
For details, contact the Aztec Chamber Festival '82, July 7-11, in downtown El
of Commerce, 125 N. Main St., Aztec, Paso, Texas. Festival includes historic
N.M. 87410. exhibits, ethnic foods, dance, and
music. For details, contact the El Paso Clyde Stram, President
Lassen Rocks & Mineral Society Show, June Convention and Visitors Bureau, Five Fridge-Mate
19-20, at the Lassen County Civic Center Plaza, El Paso, Texas 79999, Sour Milk? Frozen Lettuce? Spoiled Meat?
Fairgrounds in Susanville, Calif. Hours: or call (915) 544-3650. These problems are caused by lack of air
19th, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 20th, 10 a.m. to circulation inside your RV refrigerator.
5p.m. Events include exhibits, Rodeo de Santa Fe, July 8-11, in Santa Fe, • Fridge-Mate's constant action keeps cold air
circulating around cooling fins.
demonstrations, field trip, dealers, N.M. Top rodeo performers from all • Maintains an even cold temperature
silent auction, and tailgating. For over the country gather for four days of throughout your refrigerator.
further information, contact Rose tough competition. For more • Runs continuously over 30 days on 2 Size
Reiling, 35 Inspiration Dr., Susanville, information, contact Rodeo, P.O. Box "D" Alkaline Batteries.
• No installation required. 100% portable.
Calif. 96130. 281, Santa Fe, N.M. 87501, or caU (505) • Shortens cool-down time
471-2567. for trip preparation. $.4 c 9 5 Plus $1 Postage
Festival of the Arts, June 19-July 30, in • One year guarantee. and Handling.
Flagstaff, Ariz. The festival starts on the Annual Fiesta and Barbecue, July 17-18, at P.O. Box 22697, San Diego
CA 92122 (714) 271-8984
19th with a fiesta grande dinner and art Mission San Luis Rey, near Oceanside, Rush _ Fridge-Mates @ $15.95 + $1.00 ea. for postage
auction. For details, contact the Flagstaff Calif. Hours: Sat. and Sun., 10 a.m. to 8 and handling. Calif, residents 96c ea. sales tax.
Total enclosed (check or M O . ) $
Chamber of Commerce, 101 W. Santa p.m. Entertainment, BBQ, and the
Master Charge & Visa accepted. Send card No.and Exp. date.
Fe, Flagstaff, Ariz. 86001. arrival of trek-riders are featured. For
NAME .
details, contact Mission San Luis Rey,
ADDRESS
Prineville Rockhounds Pow Wow, June 4050 Mission Ave., San Luis Rey, Calif.
CITY STATE ZIP
19-27, at the Crook County 92068. • (Also available at many RV Accessory Stores)

JULY 1982/DESERT 81
The Roadrunner
The roadrunner's image and
name is on every kind of
business imaginable, from beer
halls to beauty parlors. Its
likeness appears on ashtrays,
glasses, greeting cards, rugs,
clothing, and jewelry. There are
ceramic and wood-carved
roadrunners, many of which are
made in other countries. A car
manufacturer used the name
"roadrunner" to sell cars. It is
also a famous cartoon character.

These birds are extremely fast


on their feet. In a flash they can
go from a standing stop to full
speed. They have been clocked
at about 15 miles an hour.
Changing directions is no
problem for them with the aid of
their tail and wings, which they
manipulate for braking,
balancing, and turning. Their
speed and ability to change
directions are necessary to catch
prey and to make it difficult for
them to be caught by predators,
such as large hawks, bobcats,
and coyotes. Roadrunners run
more than they fly. Their flights
are short and gliding, and when
they hit the ground they hit
running.
The roadrunner can be found
in California, Arizona, Texas,
New Mexico, and Mexico. It is
the state bird of New Mexico.

Reprinted by permission from A


Lighthearted Look at the
Roadrunner, by Chuck Waggin.
Tucson: The University of Arizona
Press, Copyright 1982. at the Roadrunner for $3.95 plus P.O. Box 3698, Tucson, Ariz.
Want more of the roadrunner? $1 postage and handling from 85722. Arizona residents should
You can order A Lighthearted Look The University of Arizona Press, add four percent sales tax. D
82 DESERT/JULY 1982
VISIT AND ENJOY

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• WILDLIFE EXHIBITS,
MANY IN AIR
CONDITIONED COMFORT.
• WILDFLOWER DISPLAYS
• BOTANICAL GARDENS
• NATURE TRAILS
• AVIARIES
• INDIAN CULTURES
• SHADED PICNIC TABLES

There are thousands of square miles of desert land in North


America and millions more around the world. It's not all the same.
Each desert has a flavor of its own and special wonders to offer.
The Living Desert Reserve is preserving the essence of Southern
California's Colorado Desert on 1200 tranquil acres of natural land
and telling the story of this and other deserts to thousands of visitors
each year.
Indoor and outdoor live animal exhibits explain how wildlife sur-
vives in the demanding desert. Comparative gardens show how
deserts differ. Geology and geography displays and Indian exhibits
tell the physical and human history of the desert. Hiking and nature
trails and engaging educational shows and programs give visitors a
first-hand experience of the land and its animals and plants.
The Living Desert is a preserve for endangered desert animals
from this and other countries; it is a refuge for injured and orphaned
animals; and it's a delightful outing for the whole family.
It's a place to see and learn in a few hours what it would take years
to find out on your own. Discover your own wonders at the Living
Desert Reserve.
9-5 every day — closed June, July, and August.
$2.50 adults • Under 17 free • $1.50 senior citizens (Tuesdays only.)

TAKE A BREAK TO ENJOY THE TRANQUIL


BEAUTY OF THE NATURAL DESERT
Just 15 minutes from Palrn Springs on Portola Ave. in Palm Desert
(714)346-5694.
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, . ' • . . ' • • ,

NOCONAiil

Ask for Nocona Boots where quality western boots are sold. Style shown • 5019 handcratted in Sunkist Tan Veal.
NOCONA BOOT COMPANY/ ENID JUSTIN, PRESIDENT / BOX 599 / NOCONA, TEXAS 76255 / 817-825-3321

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