1

BASIC COSMETICS MANUFACTURING

Shahbaz Qureshi


GOOLSHOP.COM
shahbaz@goolshop.com
03004510258
03214510258
97-B, Abpara T&T, 07-Km Raiwind road,
Lahore, PAKISTAN
February 18, 2014


2


You can download this booklet for free from www.goolshop.com
Also share this link www.goolshop.com to your friends for this booklet and other
upcoming articles.








DEDICATION


This booklet is dedicated to my inspiration Mian Shafqat Ali and to my dearest friend and
motivator Amaghan Saqib
Mian Shafqat Al i
(Former President LCCI, Founder PIAF, CEO: Pak Business Express)
Armaghan Saqib
(Software developer, Creator of Munshi9, Trainer for Lateral Thinking Tools)

3

About Me
I am a Food Technologist, running a small business of cosmetics consultancy and
manufacturing (Private label manufacturing) in Lahore, and in addition now from the
month of March, 2014, I will start selling cosmetics raw materials and machinery for
cosmetics manufacturing through my website www.goolshop.com . On
www.goolshop.com you will find interesting articles on cosmetics, a first dedicated web
directory for local cosmetics brands of Pakistan. This web directory will help local
cosmetics brands to get more worldwide exposure and business.
www.goolshop.com will provide complete solutions from manufacturing to marketing for
your cosmetics and personal care products business.
Website
www.goolshop.com
Email
shahbaz@goolshop.com
Pakistan.cosmetics@gmail.com
Facebook
Facebook.com/goolshop
Twitter
twitter.com/goolshopdotcom
For news and update in your mobile, send an sms to 40404 with this text:
f(space)goolshopdotcom

Cell number
03004510258
03214510258
Physical Address
97-B, Abpara T&T, 7-Km Raiwind road, Lahore, Pakistan

4

HUMAN SKIN
It is composed of three main layers: (a) Epidermis (b) Dermis(c) Subcutaneous fat tissue.
Stratum Corneum
It is the outermost layer of epidermis, composed of dead cells (corneocytes) which are
surrounded by lipids like brick mortar model
1
.
Human skin surface pH is acidic normaly between 5.4 and 5.9
6
. Frequent use of soaps
and other alkaline cleansing products rises the pH of skin, which led to various skin
diseases and disorder e.g. eczema, acne. Acidic pH prevents microbial infections,
prevent moisture loss from skin and is essential for normal skin functioning
1
.
Desquamation
It is also called skin exfoliation or more precisely, removal of corneocytes (dead cells)
from the skin by natural mechanism (i.e. by hydrolytic enzymes)
01
.

5

BASIC COMPONENTS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS
Basic structure of any topical cosmetic product consists of the following main
components: (1) Active ingredients (2) Base/Vehicle (3) Functional ingredients (4)
Auxiliary substances
10
.
Acti ve Ingredient / Agent
Active ingredient is the actual substance in a cosmetic product which shows the main
effect on the skin. Common active agents are:
Whitening agents hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, B
3
& E etc.
Anti-aging moisturizers like: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, lactic acid. Vitamin A (retinyl
palmitate), & hydroxyl acids, antioxidants like vitamin E, polyphenols, green tea
extracts, UV filters, peptides
1
.
Antioxidants any substance that inhibits oxidation deterioration of other substances is
called antioxidants
07
. Vitamin E, ascorbic acid, thiols (e.g. Glutathione), BHT, BHA,
polyphenols
01
.
Anti-acne ethyl lactate, isotretinoin, salicylic acid
01
, vitamin B
6
, resorcinol, sulfur,
benzoylperoxide
11
.
Anti-dandruff selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithione, climbazole
11
.
Anti-inflammatory allentoin (soluble at max. 0.5 % in water), alpha bisabolol. They have
some solubility issues like bisabolol is insoluble in water but soluble in alcohol like IPA,
ethyl alcohol
11
.
Desquamatory agents glycerol, urea, hydroxyacids, papain
13
.

Base / Vehi cle
Base or vehicle is the main component (Quantitatively) of a cosmetic product used to
carry, penetrate, and deliver the active and / or functional ingredients onto or into the
skin while ensuring the chemical stability of the active material. Most cosmetic
bases/vehicles have three main types: (a) Fatty Bases (b) Aquous solutions (c) Powders.

Fatty Bases They consist of oil, fats, and waxes, they can be used separately or in
combination. Chemically they are mainly fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty esters,
triglycerids,and hydrocabons etc. They are from animal origion (e.g. Lanoline,
spermaceti, tallow used in soaps), Plant origion (e.g. olive oil, carnauba wax, stearic
acid, etc.), Petroleum origion (liquid paraffin, soft paraffin, hard paraffin wax,
microcrystalline wax) or they can be natural identical synthetics.
Ointment "Ointments can be defined as semi-solid preparations used topically for
protective emollient effects or as vehicles for the local administration of medicaments".
They are mixtures of fats, waxes, oils, and hydrocarbons
4
. Ointments are mostly
anhydrous. They have certain distinct advantages over emulsions but a major drawback
is that being anhydrous in nature, they feel oily and heavy on skin application, also water
soluble actives cannot be solubilized but can be used as suspended in ointment
4
.
6

Aqueous base or solution Water is the main component of these type of basis, due to
its unmatched physico-chemical properties, abundance, safety and economy. They do
not contain any fatty material as vehicle. Active or functional ingredients are dissolves or
suspended in these type of vehicles. Example: gels, solutions.

Powder Base In cosmetics, some of the common products in powder form are
foundations, concealers, powder depilatories, sweat absorbents and friction reducers
powders, cooling sensation powders. Examples of powder base ingredients: Talc,
bentonite, kaolin, iron oxides, Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide.

Functi onal Ingredi ents
These ingredients are used in cosmetic products to get certain non physiological
superficial benefits on skin or hair.
These ingredients are those when applied on the skin or hair, work superficially, and
their perceived benefit(s) is not the outcome of any of their interaction(s) with the skin
physiological processes.
Example: Skin and hair conditioning agent: Dimethicone, cyclomethicone,
behentrimonium chloride, emollients: C12-15 alkyl benzoate, detergents,Opacefiers:
TiO
2
and Talc, pigments and iron oxides in color cosmetics, pearlizers: Mica, Bismuth
oxychloride, Dyes in temporary hair dying products, soft focusing ingredients like fumed
silica .

Auxi liary Ingredients
These are those ingredients or chemicals used in cosmetic products for technical
reasons. Example: Preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, pH adjusters, colors,
fragrance.

COMBINATION OF BASES: Almost all cosmetic products are made of these above
mentioned bases as it is or in combination for example:
Fatty base + aqueous base = emulsion (Cream/Lotion)
Powder + aqueous base = suspension ( Example: gels)

7

EMULSIONS
A two-phase system, consisting of two immiscible or partially miscible liquids, one being
dispersed in the other in the form of very fine droplets
3
. Example oil is immiscible in
water.
One of these two components is present in the form of finely distributed spherical
droplets in the second continuous phase. If oil is dispersed in water, the emulsion is
referred to as: oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion; the reverse case is a water-in-oil (w/o)
emulsion
2
.
TYPES OF EMULSIONS
(1) Two phase emulsion
O/W The oil phase is dispersed in water phase in the form of droplets. The quantity of oil
phase will be less than the water phase.
W/O The water phase is dispersed in oil phase in the form of droplets. The quantity of
water phase will be less than the quantity of oil phase.
(2) Three phase complex emulsions
W/O/W Water in oil in water. O/W/O Oil in water in oil
3
.
W stands for water. O stands for oil.
Oil phase O in emulsions It consists of any fatty base substance as single or in
combination. derived from synthetic, plant, animal, or petroleum origin, or it can consists
of their combination. Example: olive oil, cetyl alcohol, bee wax, mineral oil, lauryl alcohol
etc.
EMULSION INSTABILITY
When dispersed phase droplets coalesce resulting in the separation of oil and water
phases in emulsion it is called emulsion instability. For O/W creaming occurs and for
W/O sedimentation occurs
3

EMULSION STABILIZATION
Emulsions can be stabilized by the following methods.
Addition of ionic emulsifiers, i.e. anionic or in rare cases cationic.
Addition of non-ionic emulsifiers.
Addition of mineral powders to stabilize emulsions, e.g. Veegum, Kaolin, bentonite.
Addition of polymers, e.g. Carbomers, gums, cellulose base
3
.
EMULSIFIER
Emulsions are technically very unstable and to stabilize emulsions, we use certain type
of chemicals known as emulsifier
2
.
Emulsifiers have two ends, one is water loving and the other is oil loving. They reduce
the surface tension between oil and water and form globules and generally have HLB
values 03 to 06 and 08 to 18
6
. Emulsifiers also act as spreading agents and as
solubilizers
1
.
8

Example Glycol stearate, gylceryl monostearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, SLS,
sodium stearate, Sodium cetearly sulfate, Ceteareth-2, PEG-100 stearate, Sorbitan
monostearate, Sorbitan monooleate, PEG-20 sorbitan monolaurate,PEG-20 sorbitan
monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate.
Polymeric Emulsifiers: Dimethicone copolyol, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer.
HLB
Griffin developed a system which helps to select nonionic emulsifiers for emulsion , each
surfactant is assigned an HLB value (from 1 to 20) on the basis of the hydrophilic portion
of its molecule.
Numbers between 0 and 9: oil-soluble hydrophobic emulsifiers
Numbers between 11 and 20: water-soluble hydrophilic emulsifiers
Application HLB value
Defoamers 0-3
W/O emulsions 3-8
Wetting agent 7-9
O/W emulsions 8-18
Detergents 11-15
Solubilizers 15-18
(Ref.#02)
WATER SOLUBILITY HLB RANGE
No dispersibility in water 14
Poor dispersion 36
Milky dispersion after agitation 68
Stable milky dispersion 810
Translucent to clear dispersion 1013
Clear solution 13+
(Ref: 01)
HLB APPLICATION HLB RANGE
W/O emulsifier 46
Wetting agent 79
O/W emulsifier 818
Detergent 1315
Solubilizer 1518
(Ref: 01)
9

CREAMS & LOTIONS
Creams & Lotions are essentially emulsions. There is no well-defined difference between
creams and lotions.
Lotion
Any emulsion product which can be easily pumped and poured then it can be called as
lotion
10
.
Cream
If an emulsion does not readily flow and does not spill from a jar fully filled with the
emulsion, if gently shaken, is called cream
10
. Common cream products are:
Moisturizing, hair dyes, whitening, depilatories, cleansing creams, vanishing cream, cold
cream etc.

BASIC CREAM & LOTION MAUFACTURING
Cream and lotion (Emulsion) making process generally consists of the following steps:
Weigh ingredients separately according to formulation.
Oil phase and water phase are heated (Temp range: 50C to 80C) separately in
vessels, emulsifiers and other ingredients which are not sensitive to temperature if
required are also added at this initial stage.
When both phases are heated at same required temperature, pour slowly oil in water
phase or water in oil phase while stirring. Now stop heating and continue mixing till a
homogeneous emulsion is formed. Continue mixing till the emulsion is sufficiently cooled
and attain some viscosity.
Preservatives, fragrance and heat sensitive ingredients like vitamins, whitening agents,
hydrogen peroxide etc are added at temperatures below 40C or 50C.
If additional viscosity and emulsion stabilization is required add polymers/thickeners (pre
soaked and hydrated in some water) then neutralize them, if required, and mix till
homogenize.
Tips
Use hot water bath for heating.
Always cover vessels with lids mainly to minimize evaporation and to avoid falling
objects.
Always use stainless steel (grade 316L) vessels, machinery and utensils.
For O/W emulsion it is preferable to add water phase in oil phase slowly while mixing
and vice versa.
For simple carbomers, cellulose based polymers and gums it is preferable to first pre
10

mix them in glycerin or PG before mixing and soaking them in water. After they are
fully hydrated they are ready to be incorporated in emulsion.
For oil-in-water emulsions a blend of emulsifiers of HLB range 7 to 18 should be used
for stable emulsion
1
.
In an emulsifier blend, for oil-in-water emulsions, use water loving emulsifier in ratio
greater than those of less water loving ones for better emulsion stability and quality
1
.

11

SUSPENSION
The fine distributions of solids in a liquid is called suspensions / dispersions
2
.
Cosmetic Products In Gel Form
They are dispersions in which the dispersed phase is cross linked forming a network
which gives a semi solid shape to gel. Most Gel products are based on water but
sometimes they can be based on alcohols, or oils. They are transparent to milky in
appearance. Thickeners are the main components in most of the gels, they are the
dispersed phase in gels. Example hair styling gel, deodorants, anti acne gel, peel off
masks.

Basic Hair Styling Gel Formula
Phase # Ingredients %-age
A
1
Carbomer
1
2
Glycerine
2
B
3
EDTA
0.2
4
D.I.water
5
C
5
Polyvinyl pyrolidone
0.5
6
D.I. Water
89
D
7
Preservative
0.5
8
Fragrance
0.4
9
Color
q.s.
E
10
Triethanolamine
q.s.

Mix well 1 in 2 of phase A till a slurry is formed.
Now mix 3 in 4 of phase B.
Now mix 5 in 6 till it is fully hydrate of phase C.
Add phase A & B in phase C and start gentle mixing till all componenets are fully
hydrated and homogeneously distributed.
Now add phase D in the above mixture.
In the last add triethanolamine gradually while mixing very slowly till desired thickness is
achieved.

12

LIQUID WASHING PRODUCTS
Liquid washing products are primarily based on surfactants . Usually the percentage of
surfactants used in washing products is greater than the cleansing products, therefore,
washing products require more water for their removal from skin. Washing products are
less mild than cleansing products also are not good in imparting conditioning to skin than
the cleansing products.
Face Wash
Face wash is a mixture of different surfactants and water along with suitable thickeners
and preservative. Other optional ingredients may include: Humectants, emollients,
chelating agents, opacifiers, pearlizers, therapeutic oils, AHAs, BHAs, vsitamins,
fragrance, colour, suspended beads, herbal extracts etc.
Acne Face Wash For acne face washes, surfactants which are less damaging to
skin are used. Use anti bacterial agents like benzalkonium chloride, if benzalkonium
chloride is used then avoid SLES or other anionic surfactants with the exception of
sarcosinate as it is compatible with cationics. The pH should be on acidic side near to
normal skin pH but this low pH may cause stinging sensation, therefore, this factor
should be consider. AHAs and BHAs are also used.
Oil Control Face Wash Use surfactants which are good at emulsifying and removing
sebum, like SLS, SLES, etc. Little or no humectant is needed for oily skin.
Note: SLS is very good for sebum removal. If you want to use SLS in oil control face
wash, then it should be used along with SLES and acylglutamate. SLS must be used
in minimum quantity due to its irritation and solubility issues.
Normal Skin Face Wash SLES 05% to 20 % along with amphoterics and non-ionics
with total 10 % to 30% of total surfactant concentration should be used in the final
product along with humectants.
Moisturizing / Dry Skin Face Wash Surfactants which are less harsh and which do
not damage skin barrier lipids(e.g. Acyl glutamates,), betains, APGs can be used
along with good level of humectants and emollients.
Tips
1. In baby shampoos avoid the cationic surfactants, also other surfactants which are
harsh, irritant,potentially toxic; e.g. SLS, SLES, Coconut-DEA.
2. In baby care products use amphoterics, betains, anionics like sarcosinates, acyl
glutamates.
3. For normal shampoos and other washing products surfactants of different classes
should be used in combination to meet required properties of foam, product
performance and aesthetics.
4. SLS is very less soluble in water and is harsh, but good for sebum removal.
5. In Shampoos and face washes use SLES grade (02 or 03 moles of EO)
1
.


13

Basic Face Wash Formulas
Phase # Ingredients %-age
A
1
D.I. Water
60
2
Sodium laureth-2 Sulfate
15
3
Coconut DEA
5
B
4
PEG-75 Lanoline
1
5
Glycerin
0.5
6
Urea
0.5
7
D.I. Water
14
C
8
D.I. Water
2
9
Color
q.s.
10
Preservatives
0.5
11
Fragrance
0.4
D
12
NaCl
1~3

Add number 2 & 3 In 1 of phase A and gently mix till all dissolved, if required provide
heat to aid dissolving of number 2&3.
Dissolve 4,5 and 6 in 7 of phase B.
Dissolve 9, 10 & 11 in 8 of phase C.
Now mix Phase B & C in phase A.
In the last, add NaCl gradually while gentle mixing till the required viscosity achieved.

14

CLEANSERS
Cleansers are those personal care products which are used to remove soils, dirt, dead
skin cells and sebum from skin by these mode of actions mechanical action,
emulsification, suspending, and by solubilizing. They can be divided in six basic
categories
4
which are:
Lathering Cleansers They produce lather during cleansing process with water, and
contain higher levels of surfactants, usually SLS, SLES, betains, and alkanolamids. Their
mode of cleansing is through emulsification and suspending of soils and fats
4
.
Emollient Cleansers Like lathering cleansers they are also made of surfactants and
their mode of action is same as lather cleansers, but they also contain some oil or other
emollients like cetyl alcohol etc. and they do not form lather which is suppressed by oils
and emollients. They are recommended for dry skins with greater cleansing
requirements
4
. Double action or triple action cream cleansers (abundantly available in
local markets with different brand names) are basically emollient cleansers.
Scrubs They are non-lathering cleansers like emollient cleansers and are based on
surfactants, emollient oils, waxes and additionally they also contain small abrasive
particles for the removal of dead tissues and cells of upper layer of skin. These abrasive
particles are from natural sources and as well as from synthetic sources. Natural sources
consist of nut shells of almond, apricot, wall nut etc. Synthetic particles may include
polypropylene beads, PVC resin, polyethylene beads etc. Scrubs provide cleansing and
exfoliation simultaneously. They are not recommended for daily use for people with
sensitive skins
4
.
Cleansing Milk This type of cleansers are based on oils rather than surfactants. They
remove soils, dirt and sebum from skin by dissolving them rather emulsifying them. You
can incorporate different types of skin conditioning and skin beneficial ingredients in
cleansing milk formulations, because it is wiped off from skin by cotton or other
absorbent substrate instead of water. They are lotions with milky appearance, that is why
they are called cleansing milk
4
.
Toners They cleanse the skin by dissolving sebum and in addition they shrink the skin
pores. They contain alcohols and humectants for dissolving dirt and soils. Alcohols also
work as astringents, shrinking skin pores. They are classified as refreshers with alcohol
0-10 %, Tonic with alcohol 10-20 %, Astringents (Citric acid, Lactic acid, Zinc sulfate,
zinc oxide)with alcohol 20-60 %. They are good for makeup removal, pore cleansing,
pore tightening. To reduce dry skin feel, oils can be incorporated
4
.
Substrate Cleansers Substrate cleansers are non-woven cloths in which mild
surfactants and skin conditioning agents are incorporated. They cleanse by
emulsification, suspending, and by mechanical action of cloth substrate. They provide
cleansing, exfoliation and conditioning in single application
4
.
1) Dry Lathering Cleansing Cloth: They contain surfactants which produce good foam.
They are available to consumers as dry pads and require water for application on
skin
4
.
2) Wet Cleansing Cloths: They are available to consumers in wet form. Their cleansing
15

action is based upon dissolving and mechanical removal by substrate. They are
normally available as wipe off, like baby wet diaper wipes. They impart more
conditioning than dry lathering cleansing cloths
4
.
Mud Cleansers They are also called mud masks. They contain large quantities of
bentonite or kaolin. They remove sebum by absorption.

16

HAIR REMOVAL CREAMS AND LOTIONS (DEPILATORY)
They remove hair by a chemical reaction (reduction) with hair shaft proteins. Hair
removal creams and lotions are usually o/w type emulsions. De-ionized water is
recommended. These emulsions (o/w) are generally stabilized by nonionic emulsifiers
along with waxes (to give body to cream and lotion) like Stearyl alcohol, additional
stability can be achieved by using thickeners such as Acrylic acid based polymers etc.
Salts of Thioglycolic Acid are used to break the bonds of hair shaft proteins
10
.
Alkalies (NaOH, KOH,CaOH, rarely LiOH), are used to increase the pH to the required
level and in addition they also react with TGA to form its salts.
Removal of sebum from hair is essential for maximum contact of the depilatory with the
hair surface, this enhances the performance of the depilatory. To remove this sebum
from hair cuticle, anionic surfactants (e.g. SLS) are used.
Hair shaft swelling agents like urea and thiourea are used for ease in deep penetration of
TGA salt in to the hair shaft.
Chelating agents are used to stabilize emulsion and to prevent TGA alkali complex from
deterioration by free metal ions.
Humectants can be used for skin moisturization claim e.g. PG.
Adhesives like paraffin (liquid paraffin, sometimes hard paraffin wax is also used) are
also used to adhere the mixture with hair shaft, Liquid paraffin also work as emollient on
skin
6
to help reduce the harshness of depilatory on skin
9
.
pH of the final product should be from 11 to 12.5
8
.
Ideal pH for hair removal product in our local environment is between 12.10 to 12.30.


HAIR BLEACH CREAM (BLEACH CREAM)
Hair bleach creams available in local markets are primarily based on hydrogen peroxide.
They always come with a powder called bleach accelerator / bleach powder / blonder
powder, which consists of salts of persulfates and bicarbonates. The purpose of this
powder is to speed up the bleaching process up to an acceptable and practical time
duration, which is usually between 05 to 20 minutes. The cream to powder usage ratio is
4:1 by weight.
The concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the final product should be at 06%.
Ingredients include Deionized water, hydrogen peroxide stabilizers like Phosphoric acid,
Acetanilide, Phenacetin
8
, waxes (Stearyl alcohol), nonionic emulsifiers, preservatives,
color, and fragrance.
They are mostly O/W type emulsions.


17

FACIAL MOISTURIZERS
The role of facial moisturizers is to restore moisture of the upper skin layer, makes it
elastic, flexible, and reduce dull appearance with maximum aesthetics
4
.
Moisturizing Creams and Lotions
Any cream or lotion when applied on the skin, overcomes the signs and symptoms of
skin dryness can be called as moisturizing cream or lotion.
Moisturizing products makes skin soft, supple and healthy looking also their regular
prolonged use reduces signs of aging to some extent.
Apart from water and basic ingredients required for almost all formulations, there are
three basics ingredient classes(1),(2),(3) which are required to make an effective
moisturizing product:
1. Humectants. Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin, Sodium Lactate, Urea etc.
2. Emollients.
3. Occlusive.
4. Sunscreens (prevent skin dryness by photo damage).
5. Vitamins, such as vitamin C for skin radiance, vitamin B
3
for even skin tone and
dyspigmentation, Vitamin E is an antioxidant and it reduces UV induced damage.
6. Interference pigments are used to enhance natural transparent skin luster and give the
skin a radiant glow, examples of interference pigments are TiO
2
, Bismuth oxichloride,
mica and coated micas
1
.
7. Soft focusing effect materials are used in formulations to produce optical blurring effect
on the skin, minimize the uneven skin tone and reduce the appearance of fine lines on
the skin. Example of soft focusing effect materials are: Polymethyl methacrylates,
Nylon, Polyurethane, silica and silicones
1
.

18

TYPES OF RAW MATERIALS USED IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS

OILS & FATS
They are obtained from plants and animals and are mainly composed of triglycerides
(composed of glycerol and three fatty acids)
11
. Example: Olive oil, almond oil, Tea tree
oil, Coconut oils.
In cosmetic products they have the following uses: Emollients, Spreading agent, Carriers
/ Vehicles, Therapeutics (Tea tree oil), Skin feel agents, Luster and shine ingredient
(castor oil).
HYDROCARBONS
These products are obtained from petroleum. They are stable to oxidation and
compatible with large number of cosmetics raw materials, odorless, and are also cheap.
Following are some examples of hydrocarbons which can be used in cosmetics.
Hard paraffin It is also called as paraffin wax, in local language moam wax. This wax is
hard and is pale white to translucent in appearance. It provides hardness and body to
cosmetics products. Mainly used in creams and sticks.
Soft Paraffin May be called as petrolatum, petroleum jelly, also locally known as vasline.
Have good adhesion property as well as have unmatched excellent occlusion property.
Used in creams and lotions especially in moisturizing and cold creams and lotions. It is
sometimes incorporated in cleansing products. Nonionic emulsifiers with HLB 3 to 7 are
used for w/o emulsion of petrolatum
1
.
Liquid Paraffin May be called as mineral oil, white oil or paraffinum liquidum. In creams
and lotions it used as occlusive, for improve skin feel, and as base oil in hair care oils.
Soaps are used as their emulsifiers with water.
Ceresin It has melting point between 65C to 95C. It also have high specific gravity and
is more hard. It is used as hardening agent in sticks
11
.
Microcrystalline Wax Melting point 60C to 85C. Have good adhesion power and is
more extensible than other wax. It is used in sticks and creams to suppress crystal
formation of other waxes
11
.
HIGHER FATTY ACIDS
They are used as cleansing, emulsifying, and emollient agents. They react with caustic
soda and other alkalis to form soaps.
Lauric Acid It is mainly used in cleansing products and liquid soaps after neutralization
with alkalis like caustic soda. It is water soluble and gives good foam.
Myristic Acid like lauric acid, its soap also gives good foaming and cleansing.
Palmitic Acid When neutralized with alkalis its soap is formed having good emulsifying
and cleansing properties. It is also used as emollient in creams and lotions.
19

Stearic Acid It has wide applications in cosmetics. It is very commonly used in creams
and lotions in Pakistan. It provides body, consistency, and viscosity to creams and
lotions. When neutralized with alkalis it forms a base cream for snow cream. If cooling
rate of this base is controlled it forms a pearly appearance in cream. Its triple press
grade is commonly used in cosmetics.
HIGHER ALCOHOLS or FATTY ALCOHOLS
They are used in creams and lotions as emulsion stabilizer, opacifiers, emollients, and
as oily raw materials for emulsions. Two most common fatty alcohols used locally are
Cetyl alcohol and Stearyl alcohol. Mostly they are used in combination and this blend
comes with different names called Cetylstearyl alcohol or cetocetyl alcohol, cetostearyl
alcohol.
Cetyl Alcohol It is used as opacifier in shampoos, emollient, and oily raw material in
creams and lotions. It is used in rinse off hair conditioning products to increase
deposition of conditioning agents on hair surface. It provides less viscosity than Stearyl
alcohol. It suppresses foam of all cleaning products.
Stearyl Alcohol It has high melting point(59.4-59.8 C.)
12
than Cetyl alcohol. Provides
more viscosity to emulsion than Cetyl alcohol
11
.
ESTERS
They are composed of acids and alcohols
1
. In cosmetics they are used as waxes,
emulsifiers, solubilizers, and as emollients.
Jojoba Oil It is liquid type of ester of plant origin. Have exceptional oxidative stability
than all other plant origin oils. Due to exceptional oxidation stability, it indirectly increases
the shelf life of the product in which it is incorporated. It imparts pleasant skin feel and
provides good spreadability of cream on skin.
Wax Esters They are Esters of higher fatty acids and higher alcohols and also contain
free fatty acids, higher alcohols, hydrocarbons, and resins. They are used to harden
products, improve gloss, Increase melting points of products, improve feel of application
and are used as emollients.
Carnauba wax: They are obtained from plant of carnauba palm. Melting point: 80C to
86C. Have application in stick type products. Improve gloss, heat endurance, and
hardens the product.
Candelilla wax: Plant origin. Have almost same functions and applications like
carnauba wax.
Bees wax: It is obtained from hive of honey bee. This wax is used in creams, lotions,
and sticks. Provides binding, stabilizing effect, makes emulsions more smooth and
viscous, enhances spreadability.
Lanolin It is of animal origin and obtained from the fleece of sheep. It has the ability to
attract some water therefore it can be added to cream and lotions and have good affinity
with skin. It is used as emollient
11
.

20

Emollient Esters They are esters used in cosmetics as emollients, skin conditioning
agents. Depending on their chemical structure they provide different skin feels, from light
to non-greasy and cushiony
1
. Example: IPM, capric/caprylic triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl
benzoate is used as emollient, reduces greasy feel, solubilizer, and fragrance fixative.
SURFACTANTS
Surfactants can be classified as anionic (negative charge), cationic(positive charge),
amphoteric (have both negative and positive charge), and lastly nonionic (have no net
charge on their molecules).
Anionic surfactants Anionic are used as primary surfactants in washing products. They
are used for their high foaming and cleaning property. In local washing products the most
frequently used primary anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES).
Sarcosinates and acylglutamates are also found in some local washing products, they
act as co-surfactants to improve lathering or creaming properties of formulation. Anionic
surfactants have good efficiency at alkaline pH.
Cationic Surfactants They are rarely used as washing products mainly because they
are more irritant, expensive and have poor foaming properties. They are mainly used in
medical application, as antimicrobials and as skin and hair conditioning agents. Example:
Benzalkonium chloride, Cetrimonium chloride. They are stable at acidic pH. Incompatible
with anionic surfactants.
Amphoteric Surfactants They are mainly used as secondary surfactants. They improve
and modify foam, provide cleansing but less than that of anionic, they are mild for skin.
Example: Amphoacetate (sodium cocoamphoacetate), betains(cocamidopropyl betain)
produce dense foam with SLES, Sultains(cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) etc.
Compatible at broad range of pH with anionic and cationic.
Non-ionic Surfactants APGs are generally regarded as skin friendly, less irritant,
environmental friendly, can be used in natural products. Coconut DEA makes foam more
stable formed by SLS or SLES, also used to thicken cleansing products. Coconut DEA
have some toxicity issues therefore, should be used in lower concentrations and should
be avoided in baby care products
3
. Being nonionic, they can be used with anionic and
cationic.
PRESERVATIVES
In general term preservatives are those chemicals which prevent cosmetics products
from microbial deterioration and increase their shelf life. Parabens, DMDM Hydentoin,
Phenoxyethanol, Isothiazolinones, Diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid,
Iodo Propynyl Butyl Carbamate etc. are used as microbial preservatives. In anhydrous
formulations, there is no need of microbial preservatives.
EMOLLIENTS
"Emollients are chemicals, when applied to a dry or inflexible Corneum, will affect a
softening of that tissue by inducing rehydration."
5

They are mainly esters, paraffin, fat and oils, fatty alcohols, and some silicones. The
purpose of an emollient is to act as a water barrier in the upper skin layer, by occupying
spaces created by the loss of natural skin lipids in the upper skin layer, thus, smooth the
skin surface which changes skin appearance, i.e. makes skin more radiant
4
.
21

OCCLUSIVES
They are hydrophobic in nature, when applied on the skin from a water resistant layer on
skin thus preventing moisture loss from the skin. They are based on paraffin, fat, oils,
and Silicones. Example: petrolatum, dimethicone, shea butter, olive oil, almond oil etc.
HUMECTANTS
They are mostly water soluble organic compounds as well as some salts of inorganic
acids like Calcium chloride. They have the ability to attach large number water molecules
with them
4,5
. Example: sodium lactate, propylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, urea etc.
CHELATING / SEQUESTERING AGENTS
They are certain type of chemicals which bind metal ions in water thus increase
performance and shelf life of cosmetics products. Example disodium EDTA, tetra sodium
EDTA.
WETTING AGENTS
They are surfactants normally with HLB 07 to 09 and facilitate the contact between
liquids and solids surfaces
6
.Example; PEG-75 lanoline, sorbitan laurate.
FILM FORMING AGENTS
Film forming agents are used in many cosmetics products like in hair styling products(to
provide hardness), nail polish, shampoo, peel off mask, eye liner, mascara, as emulsion
stabilizer in creams and lotions. Examples: PV alcohol, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone (Grade of
PVP are K30,K90), Nitrocellulose, latex, etc
11
. All film forming agents are polymers.
These chemicals, on evaporation of their carrier solvents, form film on the surface on
which they are applied. Depending on the type of film former used, these films have
different properties, i.e. from flexible to rigid, water proof to no water proof. The flexible
water soluble film of peel off mask is due to polyvinyl alcohol. Sometimes if the film of
peel off mask is water proof, then it is made of Latex. In nail polishes, nitrocellulose is
used as rigid film former, which is soluble in butyl acetate. In shampoo film formers are
also used but mainly for conditioning(guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) and
sometimes as lather stabilizer
11
.
VITAMINS
Vitamin A Retinyl palmitate is oil soluble form of vitamin A. It is used as anti-aging
active. Tretinoin is also another vitamin A form, used as drug to treat acne.
Vitamin E It is used in cosmetics as antioxidant, it is anticarcinogenic, improve normal
skin functioning, and provides protection against UV negative effects on skin. -
Tocopherol form is commonly used in topical cosmetics products
1
.
Vitamin B
3
It has inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, thus it improves skin fairness
1
. It is
commonly used in moisturizing, fairness and whitening creams. It is called niacinamide
or nicotinamide. It is water soluble. All vitamins of vitamin B group are water soluble.
Vitamin B
5
D-Panthenol is an alcoholic form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B
5
). In
cosmetics, it is used as humectant and provides shine on hairs. It is mainly used in
shampoos, and in hair conditioning products. D-panthenol is more stable at pH 04 to 06.
It is sensitive to acids, alkalis and heat. It is used in spray and aerosol products to
prevent clogging of their nozzles
1
.
22

Vitamin C It is called ascorbic acid. Chemically it is very unstable, so its magnesium,
sodium and palmitate forms are used in cosmetics formulations. magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate are water soluble and ascorbyl palmitate is oil
soluble form used in cosmetics. It works as antioxidant and it also reduces the
production of melanin, therefore it is used in whitening products
11
.
ASTRINGENTS
These are chemicals used to refresh skin and constrict open skin pores
11
. Example are
zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, citric acid, lactic acid, potash alum, ethyl alcohol, Isopropyl
alcohol etc
11
.
DETERGENTS
They are surfactants having HLB values from 13 to 16. They reduce the surface tension
and aid in wetting the surfaces and dirt and emulsify. They cause foaming and are used
in washing formulations for cleaning purpose
6
.
FOAM STABILIZERS
They are additives when added to a foaming product, modify its foaming properties and
make foam more stable. Example are CMC, Laurly alcohol, Betains, amine oxides,
alkanolamides.
ANTI FOAMING AGENTS
These chemicals are used where foaming in the product is undesirable. Examples are
dimethicone, alcohol.
BINDERS
These chemicals are used in color cosmetics especially in cakes and sticks. Example:
magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, IPM, beeswax, mineral oil, lanoline derivatives
3
.
SPREADING AGENTS
They are used to increase the spreading of cosmetics products on to the skin. Example:
oils, IPM, capric/caprylic triglyceride, Dimethicone, cyclomithicone etc.
SUNSCREEN AGENTS
They are the substances used to protect skin against suns harmful rays (Ultra violet or
UV rays) Examples are Butyl methoxydibenzyl methane, Octocrylene, Octyl
methoxycinnamate, Octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, Micronized titanium
and micronized zinc
1
.
THICKENING AGENTS
They are used to thicken cosmetic products for aesthetic, emulsion stabilization, provide
shape to cosmetic products and for suspension of solids in liquid cosmetic products.
Higher alcohols(Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol), petroleum products(hard paraffin ), wax
esters(beeswax), Higher fatty acids.
Polymer Thickeners Synthetic polymers(acrylic acid base polymers, PVA, PVP), semi-
synthetic polymers(CMC, Starch, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose), natural polymers(Gums:
Arabica, acacia, xanthan, guar) are common type of polymer thickeners.
PEARLIZING AGENTS
Bismuth oxychloride and Mica are used in color cosmetics while glycol stearates are
used in shampoo and creams.

23

WHAT pH TELLS
It tells us the level of acidity or alkalinity in cosmetic products. pH scale is from 0 to 14.
0 to 6 is acidic side, 7 is neutral, Above from 7 to 14 is alkaline side.
pH Adjusters for Acidic pH: Some cosmetic products require low or acidic pH for
stability, and more skin and hair friendly. For example hair bleach cream require pH on
acidic side more or less pH 5-6, for stability of hydrogen peroxide, we use phosphoric
acid as pH adjuster. Hair rinse products having low pH prevent or reduce hair scale
opening and thus have less damaging to hairs. pH can be adjusted with citric acid , Skin
care products formulated at low pH near to normal skin pH are less damaging to normal
enzymatic activity of upper layer of skin.
pH Adjusters for Alkaline pH: Some cosmetic products require alkaline pH in order to
work. For example: Hair removal creams and lotions, Permanent hair dye cream and
lotion, Hair straightening products, soaps, etc. and some thickening agents (Carbomers)
required neutralization with these alkaline agents to swell and thicken the products in
which they are incorporated. The chemicals used to obtain high pH are alkali metal salts
and organic bases. Ammonium hydroxide has application in permanent hair dyes.
Example caustic soda, caustic potash, calcium hydroxide, triethanolamine,
diethanolamine etc.
Note: In most products it is advisable to make a 10 % aqueous solution of these
chemicals (acidic and basic pH adjusters)before using them in formulation.
10 % aqueous solution of caustic soda on weight by weight basis
Caustic soda =10 gram
Water(R.O.) =90 gram
Add slowly 10 grams of caustic soda in 90 gram of water while gently stirring. Stop
stirring when caustic soda completely dissolves in water.

BASIC EQUIPMENT AND UTENSILS REQUIREMENT
Double burner gas stove.
Stainless steel vessels with lids.
Stainless steel stirrers.
Volume measuring jugs, cylinders, beakers.
Weighing scale.
Thermometer (Stainless steel stem) range 0C to 100C.
pH meter.

24

STEPS IN A COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
After learning the basics of cosmetics products and knowing the excipients and actives
we now learn how to use this information to formulate a cosmetic product. Below are few
steps which are helpful to formulate a cosmetics product:
1. Define the purpose of intended product.
2. Analyze existing similar products in the respective market.
3. Define base of product.
a. Define active ingredients and functional ingredients.
b. Check compatibility issues of ingredients.
c. Skin type.
d. Climate and seasonal climate changes.
e. Appearance of product.
f. Flow behavior.
g. Application feel.
h. Packaging type.
4. Formula cost.
5. Shelf life.
6. Stability.

When initiating formulation development, it is important to understand project/product
requirements, type of product(s), performance and aesthetics needs, formulation cost
constraints, packaging needs, product claims, and formulation safety. To what part of the
body will the formulation be applied, and at what time of the day, morning or overnight?
Will makeup be applied over the product; will clothing come into contact with the
product? Will the targeted consumer apply a fragrance to the body after application of
the product, and if so, will the fragrances conflict? Once these requirements are defined,
the formulator can consider active ingredients, emulsion systems, preservative systems,
color, and fragrance
1
.

25


WEB RESOURCES FOR COSMETICS MANUFACTURERS
Some useful online resources for cosmetics formulators are:
www.thedishforum.com/
www.happi.com/contents/list_formulary/
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/
www.specialchem4cosmetics.com/
www.thefactsabout.co.uk/default.asp
www.thebeautybrains.com/
www.journal.scconline.org/
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/default.htm

26


REFERENCES
01 - Handbook of cosmetic science and technology / edited by Andre O. Barel, Marc
Paye, Howard I. Maibach. 3rd ed.
02 - Formulation Technology: Emulsions Suspensions Solid Forms / By Hans Mollet,
Arnold Grubenmann. Translated by H. R. Payne.
03 - Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, 10th. Ed.
04 - Cosmetic Dermatology: products and procedures / edited by Zoe Diana Draelos.
05 - Conditioning agents for hair and skin / edited by Randy Schueller, Perry R.
06 Ansels pharmaceutical dosage form and drug delivery systems / Loyd V. allen J r.,
Nicholas G. Popovich, Howard C. Ansel.-09
th
ed.
07 - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant
08 - Chemical and physical behavior of human hair / Clarence R. Robbins. 4th ed.
09 Hair Care An Illustrated Dermatological Handbook / Zoe D. Draelos.
10 Handbook of Cosmetics Skin care / Avi Shai, Howard I. Maibach, Robert Baran.
2
nd
ed.
11 New Cosmetics Science / Takeo Mitsui.
12 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stearyl_alcohol
13 - Dry skin and moisturizers : chemistry and function / edited by Marie Lodn, Howard
L. Maibach.--2nd ed.