You are on page 1of 10

II| |s s ||| |zzssss||s s II11| |

The Classic Bob dates back to Egyptian times - remember Cleopatra? This haircut looks
to be one of the most simple to cut but the experts would disagree. The haircut found
fame in the 60's when the real revolution in hair cutting started with Vidal Sassoon
cutting Mary Quant's hair into a Bob. Since then, through the decades it has evolved into
one of the most sophisticated and timeless hair cuts of all.
The haircut has been cut using the technique called 'Reverse Graduation'.
Reverse graduation allows the hair to turn under more easily with the aid of the cut. The
technique is used so as not to achieve any graduation in the cutting line enabling the hair
to sit with a very blunt edge.
Kz|rs1l |1|1s
Technique Used: Reverse Graduation
Preparation
N Completed Client and hair analysis
N Chosen desired length for suitability
N Client is gowned and seated correctly
N The haircut is split in 4 areas back, side, crown and fringe (it is not always
necessary to cut a fringe)
Back Area (To achieve Reverse Graduation)
N Hair is sectioned off at the Centre back of the head.
N The first cutting section is one of the most important sections as it forms the
guide to the rest of the hair cut.
N The first section is cut on the skin in a slight downward angle.
N The balance is immediately achieved to the other side.
N To achieve the best balance the hair should be wet at all times.
N The client is sitting correctly and the head is tilted slightly forward.
N Each of the following sections are cut on the skin. The hair is combed slightly
towards the longest point.
N The hair is cut from the inside out enabling the stylist to keep the diagonal shape.
N Each section is progressively combed towards the longest point, this enables the
hair when in its natural fall to turn under. This is because the hair on top is longer
than the hair underneath.
N Constantly checking the balance is important during the cut. It will save time,
because if you have completed the cut and the balance is wrong, you will have to
start again.
N The diagonal sections are taken up to below the crown and the back of the ear.
N The crown area is left out to compensate for any strong crown growths that may
distort the shape if cut in the normal way
N The crown area is cut after the perimeter is completed and is cut free hand. The
hair is allowed to free-fall into its natural position.
Side Area
N The side area guide is following the length from behind the ear.
N The hair is split into 3 sections. This is to allow for the ear, as the ear will distort
any cutting line if it is not allowed for.
N The first segment is taken from the back of the ear.
N Using the guide from the back of the head the first guide is cut freehand
N The second segment is combed over the ear using the wide teeth of the comb to
create relaxed tension and to allow for the ear.
N The Third segment is still cut freehand
N The angle of the side cutting line is diagonal, longer towards the front, allowing
the hair to fall forwards.
All the following sections are cut freehand
N The sectioning pattern is horizontal and the sections are worked up to centre
parting or natural side parting.
N Once one side is complete the balance is achieved on the other side
N To achieve your balance please remember the following points.
N Hair should be wet
N Head is in the same position
N Correct and even tension on the cutting line
N Use facial features i.e. jaw line to check balance
Fringe Area (It is not always necessary to cut a fringe)
N The fringe area is cut using the freehand technique
N This will allow for any movement or irregular hairlines.
N The fringe area is generally a triangular section at the front of the head taken
from the outside corner of the eyes to the front centre of the head.
N The hair is kept wet and the wide teeth of the comb is used so as to achieve
relaxed tension
N It is important to cut from the outside corner of the eye to the middle and then
balance immediately from the other side. The hair is allowed to free fall from the
head to achieve its natural shape
Crown Area (Triangular section left out to compensate for strong crown growth)
N This is cut after the hair cut is completed but prior to the blow-dry
N The section left out is cut freehand and in its free fall position
N Using the Bob length as the guide the hair is cut freehand.
N Once the hair cut is completed check visually for any stray hair along the edges
and ask the client to shake her head gently so that you can see the hair swing
and fall back to its natural position
N The hair cut is blow-dried using a classic styling brush, which will enable the hair
to turn under slightly.
N When the hair is completely dry re-check the shape especially the fringe area as
the hair on the front hairline has a tendency to become distorted.
Ils;1)sls;
Step 1 of 15 - Before
You must check hairlines to ascertain what type of baseline that
you will use.
The hair should be straight or malleable for best results.
The most suitable face shape for this classic bob is oval.
Step 2 of 15 - Centre parting/section
At this stage of the haircut it is very important to check that the
centre parting is correct.
There are several ways of checking, one of which is always 100%
correct, is to place your back edge of your cutting comb on the
top vertebrae and lay it flat against the head. This will then
indicate the centre point of the back of the head.
At this stage divide the hair into
the centre.
The head position is slightly
forward and down, also check for
clients correct seating position.
Step 3 of 15 - Creating a baseline
Sectioning is now complete.
We start the haircut, by keeping the hair wet at all times, we cut
the hair onto the skin.
As seen in the photograph, we cut from the inside out to create a
pyramid baseline. In this case we have created a short point in
the centre and a long point on the outside remembering this is
reverse graduation technique, where each section gets
progressively longer, enabling the hair to turn under.
As we work up the back of the head, each section is slightly
directed to the longest point, so when the hair returns to its
natural position, each section will be progressively longer, (see
hair travel).
Keep even moisture content
throughout the haircut to
achieve even balance.
Step 4 of 15 - Working up
On this photograph you can see the pyramid baseline, note how
clean the sections are, (uneven sections, will give you uneven
cutting lines).
As we work up to the occipital area, we start to bring the head up
to a natural position, as so as to work with the natural fall of the
hair, (i.e. to create
reverse graduation).
We then continue to
work up to just below
the crown.
Step 5 of 15 - Completed back area
You can now see the completed back area where the reverse
graduation becomes more apparent and that we have taken a
section out at the crown.
You can also see that
the defined pyramid
baseline becomes a lot
gentler as the head
comes to an upright
position.
Always check the balance,
cutting the hair on the
skin, as you work up the
back of the head, bring the
head up to the natural
position.
Leave out a semi-circle section from the
bottom to the top of the crown. This
ensures that uneven crowns do not affect
the smooth lines of the cut. This section
is cut freehand on completion of all other
areas.
Step 6 of 15 - Side area
We now move into the side
area.
The hair is split into 3 sections
to allow for the ear:
The 1st section is the back of
the ear. This allows us to pick
up our guide line from the back
of the haircut. This section is cut
freehand.
The 2nd section is combed over
the ear using the wide teeth of
the comb, to create relaxed
tension and to allow for the ear. This is cut freehand.
The 3rd section, in front of the ear, is also cut freehand.
Step 7 of 15 - Side area
On this slide you can see how we cut freehand over the ear
section. It also shows that we are creating length at the front of
the haircut. Note the head position is in an upright position.
We continue to work up the head to the centre parting, cutting
each section the same.
Once we have completed this
side, we continue to repeat the
same procedure on the opposite
side. Remember balance see tip.
See text guide for different
techniques of balance.
Step 8 of 15 - Fringe area
Note - it is not always
necessary to cut a
fringe.
The fringe area is cut
freehand to allow for
any movement or
irregular hairlines.
The section is taken
from the outside corner
of the eye, to the front
centre of the head.
The hair is kept wet at
all times, cutting from the outside towards the
centre.
Repeat on the other side, remembering that balance is very important.
The hair is allowed to free fall from the head to achieve its natural shape.
Continue to work up to your section. Remember to cut freehand.
The position of the head
is very important. Always
check for balance.
Step 9 of 15 - Crown area
This is the crown section. Which was left out from the back section.
We cut this section freehand and on completion of the haircut.
Release the section, comb the hair down with the wide teeth of
the comb to allow for the natural fall of the hair.
We then cut the hair to the
length of the haircut, always
cut freehand.
Step 10 of 15 - Completed wet cut
We can see clearly the classical bob shape - note how the hair sits
and how we have achieved length at the front.
Step 11 of 15 - Woven lights using foils
The hair is divided into clean workable sections, so as to identify
your starting point and finishing point.
Use small sectioning clips to divide the sections.
Check for balance at all
times. For best results cut
this section while the hair is
in a semi-dry state.
Step 12 of 15 - Application of Colour/foil
Start at the nape area, working round either side, proceeding
towards the front.
Take horizontal slices of hair and weave meche of hair using a
pin tail comb. Place woven meche onto prepared foil.
Wella Koleston Perfect 12/89, special pearl blonde with 12%
Welloxon Perfect was first applied to middle lengths to secure
the foil. Colour was then applied to root area and the foil was
folded.
Step 13 of 15 - Finished sections
The photographs clearly show the finished sections.
After completed application of foils, the hair was developed for 25mins under heat, using
a Climazon Millennium or can be developed for 50mins without heat.
Step 14 of 15 - Finishing the cut
We blow dry our finished result using a classic flat hairbrush.
This encourages the hair to turn under and create a slightly
bevelled edge (see blow drying techniques).
Wella S. P. Mousse was used to create volume and shine (see
styling products).
Step 15 of 15 - Final result
J1ssl|11s | k1sWsrs
Question
What technique is used in this haircut and why?
Answer
Reverse graduation is used. As each section of the hair gets progressively longer, the
hair is able to turn under creating a classic one-length shape.
Question
At what area do I begin the haircut?
Answer
Start the haircut at the nape, the first section is at the hairline.
Question
Why is it important that all the sections at the nape area are cut onto the skin?
Answer
This enables you to create reverse graduation i.e. each section gets longer. If the hair is
cut between the fingers, it will create graduation.
Question - occipital area
Why is it important to place the head in an upright position at this stage of the haircut?
Answer
It enables you to see the hair getting progressively longer and illustrates how the hair
automatically turns under.
Question - side area
How is this area cut and why?
Answer
It is cut into 3 sections:
In front of the ear - between the fingers with tension.
Over the ear - relax tension, to compensate for the ear.
Behind the ear - pick up guide from nape area, hold the hair between the fingers with
tension.
Question
Why do I cut the crown area last?
Answer
To compensate for uneven crown growth. This ensures that the smooth lines of this
classical look are not broken.

You might also like