Dzulkifli Sulaiman

D20102039948
3
rd
Report

Waves
Waves are produced by oceans energy. A wave is disturbance or oscillation that travels
through matter or space, accompanied by a transfer of energy. Wave
motion transfers energy from one point to another, often with no permanent displacement of the
particles of the medium that is, with little or no associated mass transport. They consist, instead,
of oscillations or vibrations around almost fixed locations. Waves are described by a wave
equation which sets out how the disturbance proceeds over time. The mathematical form of this
equation varies depending on the type of wave. The level of energy varies depending on the wind
of the ocean. A breezier ocean will have huge amount of energy thus producing larger waves.
These waves act as a drill or buzz saw, eroding the solid rock of the coast into cliff and caves. It
also creates beaches.
Waves formed from the wind that blows on the ocean surface. The wind which carries its
own energy transferred it to the ocean when it comes in contact with the water surface. Large
waves might caused by a storm in the ocean. It pushes the wave up and down even harder
therefore making a large wave. A wave reacts to the depth of the ocean. The shallower the ocean
more impacts a wave done on the drag the bottom. This reaction enables the wave to change the
shoreline.
Erosion along the coast is caused by waves. Impact is the main reason for erosion as
smashes rock and getting into the crack of stone. Wave can also erode by abrasion. Waves
nearing shore will pickup sediment, sand and gravel. The wave throws the sediment like a rock
contouring the earth. A wave starts by making stones crack then a whole cave finally the cave
collapse. This forms a sea arch. Sea arch is a pillar of rock rising above the water.
Deposition brought by waves all so changes the beaches. The waves carried the sediment
on the bottom and landed it on the beach. This is a long shore drift. Spit is a result of Long shore
drift. Sandbars are the spit. The sediment or disposition is gathered and to form a wall. In my
opinion, it is true. Waves can cause harm to our beaches and destroy their beauty.

Dzulkifli Sulaiman
D20102039948
3
rd
Report

Reference
Exline, J. D. (2002). Waves, Earth Changing Surface (pp 94-97). New Jersey: Prentice-Hall.