Textile Finishes: Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing.

In
order to impart the required
functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different type of physical
and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease
free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof,
antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.
In other words, A finish is a treatment given to a fabric, to change its appearance,

handling /touch or performance. Its purpose is to make the fabric more suitable for its end
use.
A series of treatments are given in mills to finish textiles goods, for example: a fabric is washed,
bleached, dyed or printed, starched and ironed before it is sent to the market. When a fabric is
given a finish, it is known as a finished textile. But it is not a must that all the textile-products are
finished before use. When no finish is applied on the textiles, these are termed as gray goods or
unfinished textiles. This does not mean that the fabric is gray in colour. It implies that no
finishing treatment has been given to it.

1. Importance of Textile Finishes

Textile finishes are important because of the following reasons. The finishes help to:
Improve the appearance of fabric and enhance its looks;
Produce variety in fabrics through dyeing and printing;
Improve the feel or touch of fabric;
Make the fabric more useful;
Improve the draping ability of light weight fabrics;
Make fabric suitable for an end (specific) use.
Make fabric attractive and serviceable
Produce a change in behavior
Provide specific characteristics & desired properties
Control shrinkage of fabric
Provide aesthetic value to fabric
To conceal inferior structure
To simulate superior quality

2. Classification of Textile Finishes:

2.1 On the basis of function

(Designer/Merchandiser/Sales Personals )
The finishes may be Aesthetic or functional
i Aesthetic finishes are applied to almost all the fabrics, with an aim to improve their
appearance, feel and body. Pale white cotton fabrics may be bleached to improve their whiteness.
For better look of a thin cotton fabric, starch is applied to increase its weight and shine. Steam
Ironing, Calendaring (industrial ironing) is a basic finish. These are also known as aesthetic
finishes. Dyeing and printing are also considered as finishes as they enhance the aesthetic
appearance of fabrics.
ii Functional or special finishes are applied to improve the performance of a fabric for some
specific purpose, for example fireproof finish prevents the burning of fabrics used by fire brigade personnel,
waterproof finish makes fabrics water repellent for making umbrellas and raincoats,
bulletproof finish on fabric saves the people from bullets and is generally used by defence
and police personnel for their safety, and
crease-resistant finish makes cotton / wool fabric wrinkle resistant.
It also alter or improve the wear ability & performance of fabric or garment & provide for:
Additional comfort
Environmental or Biological resistanct
Durability for wear life of garment
Improve care performance

2.2 According to Degree of Preformance:

i. Temporary Finishes are not durable and run off after first washing or dry-cleaning.. it only
add appearance or hand of the fabric i.e. increase the sale ability of inferior fabric. Many of these
are renewable and can be reapplied at home, e.g. starching and blueing of white fabrics.
ii. Semi durable finishes stay on the fabric surface for several washings, e.g. bleaching and
certain dyes used on cotton.

iii. Durable finishes last through out the life of a fabric or a garment but may lose its
effectiveness after many washes, e.g. permanent pleats, wrinkle resistant, etc.
iv. Permanent Finishes are is usually given by a chemical treatment. It changes the fibre
structure and remains as such on the fabric for the entire life of a fabric,. Effectiveness of finish
will withstand throughout the life of the fabric. e.g. waterproofing, fire proofing, etc.

2.3 According To Textile Chemists :

i. Mechanical finishes: Cause a physical change in the fabric. Finishes are applied by
mechanical equipment such as cu plates, drying cylinders, perforated cylinder or stenter frames.
Fabrics are handled in dry state.
These are also known as dry finishes. Here the process consists of application of moisture,
pressure and heat or a mechanical device to finish a fabric.
Beating, brushing, calendaring, filling, etc. are some of the finishes included in this group.
These finishes are either temporary or semi durable and do not last long.
ii. Chemical finishes: These are also known as wet finishes. In these, chemical treatment is
given to fabric, either to change its appearance or basic properties. These finishes are usually
durable and permanent or wet finishes.
Acid, Alkalis, Bleaches, Detergents, Softeners, Resins & other chemical substances cause a
reaction & produce permanent change in fibre molecular structure
Examples are: fire proof, crease resistance, etc.
1.Mechanical Finishing:
Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, tension
and many others.
i. Calendering
A process of passing cloth between rollers (or "calendars"), usually under
carefully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface textures or effects in fabric
such as compact, smooth, supple, flat and glazed. The process involves passing fabric through a
calendar in which a highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface speed
than the softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which it works, thus producing a glaze
on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratio of the
peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of the slower bowl and is normally in the range
1.5 to 3.0. The normal woven fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality plain
weave fabrics, because of the round shape of the yarns, and interlacings of warp and weft at right
angles to each other. In such fabrics it is more often seen that even when the fabric is quite
regular, it is not flat. During calendering, the yarns in the fabric are squashed into a flattened
elliptical shape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns. This causes the fabric
surface to become flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the
glaze of the fabric. The calender machines may have several rollers, some of which can be
heated and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a polishing action can be exerted to
increase lustre.

Objects:
The main objects or purposes are mentioned below:
a) To cause a closing together of the threads of the fabric by flattening them and thus tending to
fill up the interstices between warp and weft.
b) To produce a smooth, glossy and highly lustrous appearance on the surface of the cloth.
c) To reduce fabric thickness.
d) To reduce air permeability and water permeability of fabric by changing its porosity.
Essential elements of calendaring:
The following 3 elements should be controlled during calendering namely:
1. Pressure
2. Temperature
3. Degree of dampness.
Besides these the number, composition & arrangements of pressure bowls and speed of
running cloth are also should be controlled carefully.
Various types of calendaring finishes:
Usually there are 4 processes of calendaring finishes namely,
1. Swizzing finish.
2. Friction calendaring.
3. Chaising finish.
4. Embossing calendaring.
1. Swizzing finish:
Swizzing finishes are obtained by passing suitably conditioned cloth through the nips of the
calendar. The features are mentioned below:
1. Generally, the calender consists of 5 bowls. Where metallic and compressed material
coated bowls are placed alternatively.
2. The surface speed of all the bowls are same. Again diameter of all bowls are same.
3. The metal bowls are heated by gas or steam.
4. The cloth is taken from a batch and passed through a tension rail. Then the fabric is
passed from the bottom of the last bowl to the first nip of the calendar.
5. A smooth appearance is obtained according to number and composition of bowls.
Advantages:
i) Smooth fabric surface can be obtained.
ii) Very high glossy fabric is obtained.
iii) There is no risk of displacing of fabric.
iv) Remove wrinkles and creases from fabric.
v) Uniform calendering is obtained.

Friction calendaring:
Friction calendaring is produced by bringing the cloth into contact with a heated, polished and
chilled-iron bowl. Features of this machine arei)
Upper bowl rotates at a higher/faster speed than the cloth itself.
ii) 3-bowls heavy friction calendars are suitable for friction calendaring effect.
iii) The bottom bowl is made of cast iron, the middle bowl of cotton and the top bowl of
highly polished chilled iron.
iv) The surface speed of metallic top bowl is higher in 1.5-2 times than that of lower
bowls.
v) Middle bowl revolves in same surface speed as the bottom bowl.
vi) The top bowl has higher surface speed which produces friction effect by polishing.
Advantages:
i) Produces more smooth, glossy and higher lustrous appearance of fabric
surface.
ii) Fabric thickness can be reduced.
iii) Remove creases and wrinkles from fabric surface.

Chaising finish:
Chaising finishes are obtained with all the bowls running at the same surface speed but multiple
layer of cloth and cloth may be passed through the calender several times. The features arei)
A popular arrangement of the bowls, passing from bottom to top is cast iron,
cotton iron, heated iron, cotton and iron.
ii) Compact, bulky fabric is obtained.
iii) Pressure is created by multiple layers of fabric.
Advantages:
i) Gives a thready or linen appearance.
ii) Produce a soft handle fabric.
iii) Remove the wrinkles and creases of fabric.

Embossing calendering:
It is a special type of calendaring machine. The features are given belowi)

Machines are generally made of 2 or 3 bowls. These bowls are engraved.

ii) In a three-bowl machine the engraved metal bowl is generally placed
between two cotton or paper bowls.
iii) The diameter of these compressed material bowls is about 3 times greater
than the metal bowl.
iv) Speed of all bowls is same.
v) The temperature of the bowls can be increased either by gas or by steam.
vi) Fabric passes under the compressed material bowl then over the metal bowl.
Advantages:
i) Pebble effect may produced.
ii) Temporary and permanent effect may produced by different setting of
pressure and heat.
iii) Generally used for synthetic fabrics. It can not create any effect on cotton
fabric.

Other Calendering process:

MOIRE CALENDARING
Produces wood grain design on the face side of the fabric.
There are 2 ways to achieve this result:
METHOD1: Rib fabric (faille/taffeta) & balanced plain weave fabric are placed face to
face. Both the fabrics are fed into smooth heated metal rolls for calendaring keeping the speed of
the rib fabric greater than that of the plain woven fabric. The pressure on the calendar rolls is
maintained at about 8-10 tons.
The result is undefined watermark or moire effect is formed on rib woven fabric
METHOD2: Embossed metal roll is used which has moire pattern engraved on it..

SCHRENIER CALENDARING
3-bowl calendaring process,Gives silk like brilliance appearance

Produces soft, smooth & luster on the fabric & improved fabric cover.
Top metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal lines per inch
This finish scatters light rays & produces a deep scattered luster rather shines.
It can upgrade low quality cotton fabric.
Soft, opaque lingerie fabrics are produced from tricot knits may be given this finish

Some other Mechanical Finishes types:

NAPPING/BRUSHING
Mechanical finish for woven & knitted fabrics.
Fabrics are passed against rotating bristled wire covered rollers. Thereby raising the
fibres from fabric surface (pile effect).
Provides softer hand & better insulation, widely used in blankets, sleep wear & winter
clothing.
As a pretreatment the fabric should be padded with a softener to make the fibres in the
yarn to slide freely during the napping operation.
Drawback: subject to pilling in particularly sleeve ends, coat fronts, buttonholes, elbows
& other rubbing areas.

BEETLING
A Mechanical finish That utilizes wooden beetlers to flatten the yarns in the fabric
structures.
Closes weaves of the fabric structure
Imparts firm appearance
To increase the softness AND LUSTRES
Provides simulated linen-look to cotton fabrics.

EMERIZING, SUE DING, SANDING OR PEACH FINISH

Produces soft & smooth/ silky feel.
The fabric moves under 2 or more rollers with fine emery paper on first roller to more
abrasive paper in each successive roller.
Abrades the surface causing fibrils to split from the fibres.

Abrasion generate heat may cause harshness on synthetic fabric.

2. Chemical Finishing:
Acid, Alkalis, Bleaches, Detergents, Softeners, Resins & other chemical substances cause a
reaction & produce permanent change in fibre molecular structure
The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can receive properties
otherwise impossible to obtain with mechanical means.
Some of the Finishing Chemicals are as follow:
STIFFENING AGENTS: Include Thickeners Like Corn, Wheat, Maize, Or Potato
Starch, Tapioca, Arrow Root Starch, Sago, Dextrin, Gums, Casein, Gelatine, Glue,
Methyl Cellulose Etc

SOFTENERS: Include Glycerine, Glucose, Fatty matters, Tallow, Paraffin, Stearin,

Coconut Oil, Soap, Polyethylene Emulsion Etc

WEIGHTING MATERIALS: Calcium Sulphate, Gyosum, Magnesium Sulphate,

Laubes Salt, Barium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, China Clay, Talc, Stealite,
Etc

ANTISEPTICS: Alum, Boric Acid, Phenol, Oxalic Acid, Zinc Sulphate, Sodium
Silicofluoride,creosote, Etc..

WATER PROOFING AGENTS: Vulcanized Natural Rubber, Oxidized Oils Or

Acetate, Polyvinylidene Chloride, Etc

WATER REPELLANTS: Include Metallic Soaps Like Aluminium Stearate,

Paraffin Wax Or Vegetable Wax, Micro Crystalline Waxes, Etc

FLAME RETARDANTS: Water Soluble Compounds Of Phosphorus, Antimony &

Boron Especially Phosphates & Borates, Etc

CREASE RESISTING & CROSSLINKING AGENTS: Dimetylol Urea,

Polymethylol Melamine, Dimethylol Propylene Urea, Etc

SOIL RELEASE AGENTS: Acrylic Copolymers( E.G. 70% Methacrylic Acid &
30% Ethyl Acrylate), Fluoro chemical Based Chemicals (e.g. Polyacrylates In
Which The Alcohol Portion Contains Fluorine Atoms Instead Of Hydrogen
Attached To Carbon Atoms)

ANTISTATIC AGENTS: Polyethylene Glycol, Salts Of High Molecular Weight

Fatty Amide- Fatty Alcohol- Ethylene Oxide Condenates, Dialkyl Dimethyl
Ammonium Chloride, Etc.

WOOL SHRINK- RESISTING AGENTS: Reactive Pre Polymers Containg

Carbamoyl Sulphate Groups, Isocyanate- Terminated Urethanepre Polymeretc.

ANTI PILLING AGENTS: Pilling Is An Unpleasant Phenomenon Usually

Associated With Spun Yarn Fabrics, Especially Those Containing Synthetic Fibres.
Formation Of Polymer Film Such As Polyvinyl Propionate, Polyacrylates Etc Resin
Finishing Reduce Pilling.

FLUOROCHEMICAL REPELLENTS: For Imparting Both Oil & Water

Repellency To Textiles Fluoro polymers Such As Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or
Methacrylic Type, Copolymers Of Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or Methacrylic Type,
Copolymers Of Vinyl Esters, Etc.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES

WHAT IS SHRINKAGE?
Reduction in the length or width of a fibre, yarn or fabric

Increase in size - growth

SHRINKAGE CONTROL METHODS
COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE (SANFORIZATION)
Mechanical finishing technique, generally used for cellulose based fabrics.
Impart shrinkage to the fabric and improve luster of the fabric.
Before the processing a sample of the fabric must be washed by standard test methods
designed to indicate the maximum shrinkage expected during the useful life of the fabric.
The result used to determine how much the fabric will be preshrunk.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FOR KNITS

Firstly fabric is treated with resin containing solution, then dried
Compressive shrinkage processes for knits use different methods to return fabrics to their
relaxed position

LONDON SHRUNK
Controls relaxation shrinkage
Used for high quality worsted fabric.
Wet worsted cloth and cotton blanket placed on long platform, a layer of fabric spread on
it.
Weight placed on top for 12 hrs.
Hanged to dry naturally.
Fabric layered with special perforated boards.
Pre heated metal plates inserted at intervals.
Kept under 3000 lbs pressure for 10-12 hrs.
Finally tension is removed.

DECATING / DECATIZING
A wet or dry mechanical finishing process
Wool fabric wounded with blanket on perforated cylinder.
Jet of steam released through holes.
Causing fabric dampened and relaxed.
Cold air blown through fabric.
Helps even the yarn and set the grain of fabric
Enhances and sets the natural luster of fabrics .
Helps to overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing.
Produces smooth and wrinkle free fabricks

POTTING / BOILING
A wet or dry mechanical finishing process
Helps even the yarn and set the nap of fabric
For napped , sueded & fine wool.
Fabric may be wounded on roller, wrapped in cotton.
Immersed in high temperature.
No boiling water

IWS SUPER WASH

Super wash is wool bureaus trademark for fabric
application of resin, covered the scale surface on the wool fiber.
Semi durable finish will withstand for 25-30 launderings.

Excellent wash ability without affecting strength or fabric hand.

POLYMER BASED PROCESSES

Chemical finishing process for woollen fabrics
Application of thin polymeric layer to surface
Polymer coats the scales, inhibiting interlocking action and prvents shrinkage.
Durable finish- 30 to 40 washes
Most effective for garments, especially sweaters.
Problem encounters ,fabric becomes stiff or harsh to touch when enough resin or polymer is
used to make fabric completely shrink proof.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL THROUGH HEAT SETTING

May be performed in fabric or garment form.
Controls relaxation shrinkage. Used for thermo plastic fibres
Fabrics will be stabilized in natural configuration when heated at softening temperature.
During this condition, stress / strain is released.
Process for stabilizing polyester and nylon fabrics by heating at 350-4000F for 20-60
seconds.
Not effective on cotton or rayon.
Synthetics can permanently set into shape .By subjecting heat near their glass transition
temperature.
Heat allows molecules to relax, result is the fiber do not exhibit further shrinkage.
SHRINKAGE CONTROL THROUGH HEAT SETTING
Uneven heat setting causes the fabric to dry unevenly and therefore be subjected to
uneven heat setting.
Differential dyeing, bow-bias and yellowing can result.
May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing.
May cause variations in shrinkage
WATER REPELLENT/ WATER PROOF FINISHES
Water proof fabrics provide protection under all conditions of wet weather, this type of
fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural or synthetic rubber or plastic such as vinyl or
polyurethane, this finishes are permanent finish.
Water proof Breathable laminated Fabrics
Consisting of extremely thin laminate(0.001inch) made from Teflon, provides a water proof yet
breathable fabric, Laminate sheet contains over one billion extremely fine holes per inch,
laminate can be applied on to woven/ knitted fabric.

Water repellency depends on surface tension & fabric penetrability.

Fabric resist wetting but air/ moisture can penetrate.

It is achieved by combination of fabric structure & finish.
Commonly used chemicals are: paraffin wax, paraffin wax with Al or Cr salt,
pyridinum salt, reactive silicon resins, fluoro carbon emulsion.
Applied by pad-dry-cure
These chemicals fill the gaps warp/weft yarns in fabric.

Applications: heavy duty military protective clothing, rain wear, ski wear, golf suits, sports
footwear linings,. hospital drapes, mattress, tarpaulins, tents & sleeping bag covers

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES

Prevents growth of bacteria & odor causing germs, prevents decay & damage from perspiration,
control the spread of disease & reduce the risk of infection following injury.
Used in intimate apparels/ body fit garments/ jogging & exercise clothing/ sportswear, shoe
linings, hospital linen & carpets.
Chemicals used are:
Quartenary Ammonium Compounds,
Zirconium & N-halamines
Usually applied by pad-dry-cure
Semi durable finish

INSECT & MOTH CONTROL FINISHES

Mainly applied for wool & wool blends.
Reduces or prevents damage by moths and insects
Chemical & Semi durable finish and applied by pad-dry-cure.
Permethrin is applied at the scouring or dyeing stage
The prime requirement of mothproofing agent is that it to be toxic to moths & beetles that
attack wool, but it must not be toxic to human beings at concentration levels used for
mothproofing
Durable Flame Retardant
Chemical finish, which react with or physically held on the surface of the fabric or within
the fibre.
Durable flame retardant are generally organic compounds, which caontains phosphuras,
nitrogen or halogen or combination of these in the chemical structure, THPC (tetrekis
hydroxyl phosponium chloride).
The Finish formulation usually contains the flame retardant chemical, a softner, a resin
binder or cross linking agent & catalyst.
Applied to fabric by a Pad-dry-cure process
Durable finish
Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes
Soiling generally means staining of a large surface of the fabric with dust, dirt, oil or
grease.

Mechanism of soiling:
By mechanical adhesion of soil to the cloth.
By adhesion by electrical forces.
By redeposition of soil during washing.
This type of finishes Prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishes may
be resistant to oil-boure or water-bourne soil and stains or both. Stain and soil resistant finishes
can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture.
Application
Soil release finishes based upon the use of organo silicon compounds are applied by paddry-cure process.
Fabric is padded with a mixture of methyl hydrogen polysiloxane and acetyl dimethyl
benzyl ammonium chloride together with zinc acetate
Dried
Cured at 160 C for a few minutes
Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture.
Anti Static Finish
It helps to neutralize static charges development
Chemicals of quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic organic compounds or a blend
of cationic surface-acting agents are applied to the fabric by pad-dry cure and
spraying methods.
It is a semi durable chemical finish.
Applied to synthetic fiber fabrics
Reduces or eliminate static electricity
Prevents clinging characteristics of garments to body or other garments
Reduces static attraction of dirt or lint.

ULTRA VOILET FINISHES

The extent to which a woven or a knitted fabric transmits, absorbs, or reflects UV
radiation determines its sun protection properties.
Higher is the transmission, or lower is the absorption, lower is the protection offered by
the textile for the wearer.
There are two possibilities of reducing UV transmittance by fabrics
Reducing the porosity through modification of construction.
By improving the absorption and reflection properties of the fabric.

The transmission, absorption , and reflection are in turn dependent on the fibre, fabric
construction (thickness and porosity) and finish.
Grey cotton shows good protection in comparison to scoured and bleached cotton offer
poor protection.
Wool provides maximum protection, while silk is intermediate between the two fibres.

Synthetic fibres, in general are better UV absorbers as compared to natural fibres.

Polyester is the best due to its aromatic structure.

Addition of the delusterant Tio2 modifies the reflection and absorption of the UV rays by
the fibre leading to increased scattering.

MICRO ENCAPSULATED FINISHES

Micro encapsules are b/w 5-50 microns & may contain fragrance, insect repellents,
disinfectants, cleaning agents or activated charcoal.
Micro capsule are sprayed on to a fabric & held in place with poly vinyl alcohol or
acrylic binder.
Normal rubbing during wear rupture the capsules & release the Fragrance.
A physicochemical technique
Moth protecting agents have micro capsulated for application to wool products
Micro capsules containing bacterial agents are applied to socks underwear, womens
intimate apparel & active wear.
Activate charcoal is used as a deodrant finish to absorb body odor for gym wear active
sports ear, intinate apparels & hunter clothing.