Professional Documents
Culture Documents
THE
Origins
ISSUE
THE
Origins
ISSUE
NO. 1
SUBMISSIONS
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FEATURES EDITOR
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open
to
FASHION EDITOR
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PHOTO EDITOR
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WRITERS
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GRAPHIC ARTISTS
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DIGEST / SUBMISSIONS
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INDEX
INSIDE & OUTSIDE
THE CASTLE ON THE HILL - ARTICLE - 11
CASA DE PASTO - EDITORIAL - 31
NEW BLOOD - ARTICLE - 45
STYLE
COMING CLEAN - EDITORIAL - 71
LILIA LITKOVSKAYA - INTERVIEW - 89
ORGANISM// - EDITORIAL - 95
ART
CATARINA JOO - PORTFOLIO / Q&A - 119
DANIELA VIOSO - PORTFOLIO / Q&A - 131
THE ART DIGEST - 143
&
INSIDE
OUTSIDE
I NS I D E & OU TSI D E
A RT IC LE
THE CASTLE
ON THE
HILL
AN ANALOG P HOTO S TO RY
by I N ES VE I G A P E NA
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The City of Seven Hills, The Queen of the Sea, safe harbour from
the Phoenician Allis Ubbo. A jewel nestled between the river, the sea and
the mountains, Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world and the oldest
very strong traditions which have been influenced by the different cultures
of its several occupying cultures. From gastronomy to architecture, passing
part, due to its proximity to North Africa and longer Moorish occupation,
not only still carries an Arabic name but its buildings are a mix of Visigoth
medieval castles and Islamic square-shaped white houses with Moorish
mouldings.
the centre of everything. It was from Lisbon that Vasco da Gamas ship
sailed, heading to India, and in the 16th century the Praa do Comrcio
(commerce square) was the European trading hub between Africa, India,
the Far East and Brazil. Despite a strong national identity, Lisbon was
The great beauty of the city is in its duality. There is a constant dialogue
between old and new that goes beyond mere acceptance - its respect.
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with and openness to the rest of the world, which stimulates an openminded attitude in its people both young and old. Foreigners are welcome
with open arms in a city where even an elderly fishmonger speaks perfect
English and anyone is willing to offer a lost traveller a sofa to sleep on or a
free meal; but they will not lose an opportunity to emphasise how that fish
was caught that morning right off the coast, how they will cook you the
best food you have ever tasted or how you should not leave without going
egg-custard pie) bought at the original factory in the Belm area. People
are updated on technology and world news, they know Hollywood
It is this dialogue between old and new, tradition and innovation that makes
Lisbon such a thoroughly enchanting place. There is always something
completely new happening somewhere in the city, but whatever it is, its
are opening their own businesses everywhere in the city and very few of
them flop. Chefs under forty years of age open their dream restaurants
such as wool and linen, and textile techniques inherited from family (in
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honoured. The old parts of town, such as Alfama, are pointed at as mustsee places where ladies sit outside their houses knitting and a tourist isnt
Prncipe Real are booming with antique palaces that have been bought,
polished, architecturally left alone but internally transformed into places
teenagers listening to the newest pop hit hailing from the United States,
no one refuses to spend a fun night out eating grilled sardines during the
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EDITO RIA L
Casa de
PA S T O
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A D I A LOG U E ON TR A D I TI ON W I T H CH E F
Diogo Noronha
What is the history behind this restaurant? What is the Portuguese tradition
of the casa de pasto (eating house) and why this choice of inspiration?
Historically, casa de pasto was the name given to establishments where food
was served, accompanied by wine, at the end of the 19th century in Portugal.
Like the bodega in Spain and the locanda in Italy. The word restaurant comes
from France and only start being used a couple of years later throughout the rest
of Europe. At this time there was a great transformation in customs and habits
of people in Lisbon, where there was the presence of a more financially secure
bourgeoisie. People started leaving the house more, preferring to dine out but
always in a home-like environment. A gastronomy typical of Lisbon begins to
emerge, the more bohemian side of the city develops. Artists, politicians, writers
and others live through the city, the casas de pasto and other establishments
and consume all kinds of food and drink.
We wanted to bring back a bit of that historical legacy in an equally historical
area where much of that transformation took place. Very close to the Mercado da
Ribeira, Lisbons main provider of goods at the time. We tried to recreate an era
and a little bit of the environment, while still carrying the experience through to
today. We created a gastronomical proposal with very deep Portuguese roots,
Lisbon in particular, while using cooking techniques and an aesthetic that is
more modern.
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NEW BLOOD
In 1755, the destruction caused by a great
earthquake lead to the reconstruction of the Baixa
area, the so-called downtown of Lisbon, which
leads up to the equally-affected Prncipe Real
neighbourhood. Graced by romantic palaces and
houses built around the early 1800s, this spot,
known for its garden which boasts one of the most
beautiful views of the city, is now a buzzing centre
of commerce, home to several new stores and
restaurants based on the concept of reimagining
Lisbon, honouring the ornate, ancient palaces
yet showcasing the best of young new brands,
designers and chefs. Welcome to Prncipe Real.
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ESPAO-B
Jos Lus Barbosa and Leonor Barata were the first to think up of ways to
reinvent a somewhat forgotten neighbourhood, becoming the pioneers
and almost precursors of the movement to reimagine the Prncipe Real area,
opening Arquitectnica in 1991. Part of a small family of three spaces (with B.
So Mamede and B. Bazaar), Espao-B is a very unique retail space in Lisbon,
being one of the very few true concept stores in Portugal.
Barbosas background in fashion, having worked as a designer from 1975
to 1995, brought a fresh new perspective to a capital where the notion
of luxury goods is limited to bigger name brands, such as Louis Vuitton,
Prada, Herms, Cartier, Burberry, etc, whose flagship stores are all located
in the same area of the city. At Espao-B, the selection goes in a completely
different direction - in fact, the founding of the store in 2010 came exactly
with this purpose, when the Barbosa duo realised that Lisbon did not have a
multi-brand retailer that focused on non-mainstream brands.
The city needed a store that could offer something different than what was
already there.
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The list of brands goes through Comme des Garons (including fragrances
and Play by CDG), Sophie DHoore, Hannes Roether, Fred Perry, Tashia
London, Carole Fakiel, Messagerie, Linda Farrow, Miller Harris, Assouline,
Hache, DEffect, Neil Barret, Kris van Assche, Faliero Sarti, Perrin Grevi,
Mackintosh, Isaac Reina, Traits, Paolo Pecora Theres also jewellery by
Portuguese designer Valentim Quaresma, and the store often updates their
offer of cult products as the owners do their research, both online and by
visiting other boutiques abroad, in order to stay as updated as possible.
The space itself is, aesthetically, as in line with the products as possible and
mirrors luxury concept stores such as 10 Corso Como in Milan and Colette
in Paris. With the exterior being the original faade of a 19th century palace,
the all-white interior with tall ceilings and clean, uncluttered corridors creates
an environment of pleasant contrasts. The entrance sets the mood and sends
a message, with avant-garde jewellery on display and Comme des Garons
perfumes set neatly on a table. A carefully curated collection of art, fashion,
design and photography books line the back wall, a reminder of the famous
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EMBAIXADA
Housed in a Moorish-design palace built in 1857 by Ribeiro da Cunha, a
wealthy businessman who made his fortune in Brazil, Embaixada is anything
but outdated. The space, which takes up the entire two floors of the building,
is somewhere between a super concept store and a shopping centre. In fact,
it is commonly called an indoor market by local customers, who see in this
space the same soul and energy that was so characteristic of the many old
open markets in Lisbon, such as the Mercado da Ribeira and the Mercado do
Rato. Except people dont go there for fresh fruit and vegetables.
Eastbanc, the company that owns this and many other spaces in the Prncipe
Real neighbourhood describes it simply and concisely as a lifestyle project,
and its nothing short of it. Walking up the antique stone steps, facing the
large mirrors and painting that frame the carpeted staircases, there is an
instant feeling of luxury and romance that is softened by the lack of closed
doors, security alarms or leering staff. In fact, just like an open market in
the old days, you walk freely between clothing shops and organic cosmetics
stores, passing through the Le Jardim bar and restaurant, which catches the
sunlight right at the centre of the cloister. There are no closed doors and no
pre-established paths - you visit and live the space the way you want to.
TEMPORARY BRAND
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One would think the downside would be the limited offer, but its actually
the other way around. One of the strong points of Embaixada is the range of
products, brands and types of stores which you can easily walk in and out of.
There is Organii Beb, which sells organic products for babies, a sister store
of two other Organii spaces within the building - one offering cosmetics for
purchase, the other reserved for treatments on the spot. Theres Argentine
footwear of Paez, items made from recycled and natural materials at Sal
and the incredibly stylish Linkstore which focuses on menswear.
For home and interior design there is Intemporal and Boa Safra, and
Temporary Brand focuses on a ridiculously wide array of products, going
from fashion to music, lifestyle, books and even housing temporary exhibitions.
Its also one of the few places in Lisbon where you can buy Lomography
items, like cameras and film, outside the actual Lomographic Embassy. Via
Records has everything for the music lover who is either curious about
Portuguese tradition or a proud local, selling everything national from cult
music to filigree products.
LINKSTORE
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URZE
LE JARDIM RESTAURANT
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URZE
TEMPORARY BRAND
TEMPORARY BRAND
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STORYTAILORS
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ENTRE TANTO
The second of Eastbancs indoor market (concept store meets shopping
centre meets fashion bazaar) opened just a couple of doors down, but quite
a few years later. Described by the company as a trendy and relaxed space
for shopping, it is much more than just that.
While Embaixada takes more established national brands in its roster - such as
Storytailers and Amlie au Thtre - Entre Tanto focuses a lot more on rising
brands, young talents. It not only looks to rejuvenate the neighbourhood but
to launch promising new designers. The space is in constant expansion, and
if Embaixada allowed you to pass through open doors, Entre Tanto doesnt
even have them. The building, instead of small interconnected rooms, is
divided in a series of very large open spaces which are shared by several
brands with no dividing walls. You simply know where you are when the wall
and carpet changes colour.
There are two choices of entrances, but the main one provides you with a little
canvas tote and leaves you right in front of Liquid, a juice and smoothie bar
which has an extensive all-natural menu of drinks that are prepared right in
front of you - strongly recommended is the cocoa and chilli shot, sweet and
creamy with no added milk and a punch of spice to get you going.
ETNIKSPRING
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The very chic Fora Sunglasses shares a room with colourful and feminine
brand Alperce, where tops and dresses fly off the rack since they are limited
in production, and with Papua, the first ever swimwear brand completely
made and designed in Portugal. Still within the same room but separated
by a single step is HLC jewellery, with gold-plated dainty necklaces and
midi rings on display, Bellpierre cosmetics, an internationally-renowned
brand with no other selling point in the country, and the bold and vibrant
shoe colours which makes comfortable slippers in hundreds of colours and
prints, all on display on the corridor wall.
Upstairs, EtnikSpring and India That Wears You share a single retail space
covered in fun prints and pure silk, handmade bags hanging on the wall for
purchase - but if you happen to buy anything at all your items are slipped
into an boho-chic silk tote of your choice. Waterflower and Size take up
the very large adjacent room, divided only by two different styles of decor,
and while they share a changing room the clothing is completely different:
loose tunics and scarves on one side, jersey dresses and sequined details on
the other. Right behind it is one of several childrens fashion brands, Mam
d Licena, but the most interesting one in the category is Antimilk which
sells garments for the more rebellious child who doesnt want to be dressed
by their parents.
ETNIKSPRING
Egg is a treat for the eyes, selling statement pieces for the home, from
decor items to furniture. The funny little Change space sells casual footwear
which is customisable with velcro straps that can be interchanged; Saccus
has gorgeous, unisex handmade leather bags on display but the best part
is, of course, food. If Embaixada has the elegant Le Jardim restaurant, Entre
Tanto has Cartuchos do Prncipe. Taking its name from a traditional sweet
treat that is even incorporated in the logo, the little caf is nestled in the
courtyard of the palace and is visible from every internal window that you
might pass during your shopping trip, making your mouth water until you
cant not take a seat. A series of conventual sweets - traditional recipes made
with sugar and egg jam - is always available and everything is quite delicious,
but their strength is in the homemade iced tea (apple and cinnamon) and
their homonymous dessert.
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EGG
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SHOE COLOURS
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CARTUCHOS DO PRINCIPE
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STYLE
STYL E
EDITO RIA L
COMING
CLEAN
P h ot og r a p h y
Man uela Iodic e
St y l i n g
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Federic o B arrazzo
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STYL E
IN T ERVIEW
Do you feel like your design ethos relates to any particular subculture, art
A CONVERSATION WITH
LILIA
LITKOVSKAYA
A brilliant mind with an ethereally forward-thinking sense of style, Lilia
Litkovskaya is one of the top young talents on the rise. Having launched her
label in as early as 2009, she already has several awards on her belt. Clothing
not for an imaginary ideal but for the real women, the romantic urban
warriors of today and tomorrow, LITKOVSKAYA is the brand to watch,
overflowing with a quietly fierce and timelessly appealing sense of design.
Recently there has been a bit of a spotlight on young creative minds coming from
Russia and Ukraine, much more so than before. What are your thoughts on this,
You have a very pure yet edgy aesthetic but was it always this way? Who is, to you,
the Litkvoskaya woman and how has she changed since 2006?
We have been very lucky to be born in such circumstances, in the time and
Purity with an edge, thats how I would like to think of my designs and its definitely
what I try to achieve in my work. But this hasnt been like that and I can say that
were still on our way, making ideas clearer and sharper. Its an intuitive process
after all and there is no final destination there. It just feels organic to me. This woman
youre asking about, a woman I have in mind, shes obviously very special. Theres
not one list of adjectives I would put her in - shes quite unique. But as time goes,
shes evolved. She is more grown-up, more grounded, more experienced and wise.
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place that gave us the background we have. Our heritage, both cultural and
historical, is very special. I would say the lack of everything, the devastation
that we had to face and to live through, it made us react to the reality in a very
special way. Its a different way of thinking because in order to survive and
be creative you had to find a way to stand out and to stand for what you really
believed in. In a way, we had to fight for our right to be who we were or who
we wanted to be. And this experience I find invaluable. As for contemporaries,
we are happy for their achievements and success. There is no competition.
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STYL E
IN T ERVIEW
You recently launched the Litkovskaya Pleasure line, of silky garments for comfort
and freedom of movement at home. What influenced you to make this decision
and how do you think it connects with your main line? Will they be completely
separate, or will collections weigh on each other?
Our Pleasure line is completely separate from our main line. The idea for this
collection was born out of desire to compliment female nature, femininity and
fragility of female body. I was thinking about this very particular moment when
a woman wants to stay on her own, to keep a moment only for herself. Everyone
experiences this kind of moments and knows the intimacy, the emotionality, the sense
of reservation it is filled with. And I thought, thats the moment when a woman is
very true to herself, when she is stripped off of all the social and cultural conventions
we project on her. But then, shes still wearing clothes, a very certain type of clothes
and she manifests herself through it. I wanted to make her manifesto look beautiful.
What was it like presenting your Spring/Summer 2014 collection at the prestigious
Saatchi Gallery? What are your thoughts on the permanent dialogue between the
fashion world of today and more traditional forms of art?
was just thinking about it when I say this Jean Arp sculpture. I thought, could
fashion inspire artists the way art inspired fashion designers? And I have to
say the answer is no. As much as fashion is about social commentary and
beauty, it doesnt have the same power true art has. Which doesnt diminish
fashion per se, its just that these two worlds live and operate differently.
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IN T ERVIEW
Who is, to you, the ultimate female icon, the perfect woman in terms of style
and mindset? Is there someone, living or dead, that you turn to more often when
coming up with creations?
Every decade has dozens of such names, names of brilliant women that shift our world,
trigger change and inspire us. They constantly fascinate me and I always have a silent
dialogue with them. It would be extremely hard for me to name someone particular.
But I can say that every collection I create is inspired by one of them and one can sense it
in a subtext of the collection. Theres always a woman that gives energy to our clothes.
How do you plan to expand your brand in the future in terms of sales? Would you
sell internationally in the near future and, if so, are you thinking more towards
online or offline retail?
Were making our first steps on the international market and its an amazing journey. We
definitely want to develop our label but what Im interested in now is creating a beautiful
product that can ignite and inspire people. If that happens, everything will follow.
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Photogr a phy
Ines Veiga Pena
Styl ing
Sofia Greganti
Model
Ruxanda Lavric
Ha ir an d Makeu p
Ines Veiga Pena
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ART
ART
PO RT FO LIO
Catarina
Joo
22 // ILLUSTRATION AND COMICS
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ART
Q&A
How and when did you know this was what you wanted to do or do you still want
After doing Art in high school, I graduated in Multimedia Arts from the
The people who know me best know that I answer I dont know to a lot
of things and finding out what I wanted to do went through this process as
well. When I was little all I was sure of was that I didnt want to be neither a
doctor nor a teacher. Ive always liked drawing so I ended up studying Art
in high school and Multimedia Arts in university, but I was more interested
in doing something related to cinema than drawing.
During my Erasmus year studying abroad, I really enjoyed editing a short
documentary film, Letting Marc Go, about a boy with autism and learning
disabilities and the moment right before he leaves his parents house.
Without a script and so many hours of footage, it was in the editing room
that the story really came together. It was also then that I realised that what
I really liked wasnt necessary to make films, but to make stories.
Since that year I was doing a cinema course, it was also when I was drawing
the least so thats when I really saw how much I missed it. I dedicated myself
more seriously to illustration (fanzines and drawing my own characters)
and writing for comics.
Right now Im working on my own comic book/illustration, but Im still
interested in trying out other ways of storytelling such as cinema, animation
and theatre.
What has stimulated you more throughout the years and what do you think made
you go farther?
I was lucky in the sense that my parents never forced me to follow a certain
academic path, they always gave me freedom and were interested in
culture. That way, Ive been making my own path, meeting people who
share my interests and, me being very indecisive, Ive been trying different
things so I ended up knowing a little bit of everything. If this on one hand
leads me to not really knowing anything very well, on the other hand, when
I finally dedicate myself to something, I have a lot of different perspectives
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ART
Q&A
theres the reaction of the public, which can just be inexistent; dealing with
indifference is complicated, too.
Anything done, though, even flawed, even if no one cares, is better than
doing nothing, because while doing it we learn, we improve and we move
on the next one. Experience can only come from doing things and, as
obvious as that might sound, sometimes we need people to remind us
of that. So the credit for not giving up isnt all mine, but also goes to the
people close to me whove always supported me.
In the end, I just have to believe in myself. To try and not compare myself
to others but only to myself, to look at what Ive done in the past, see how
much better Im doing now and how much better Ill be in the future.
Telling more stories. This Summer Im starting, with Daniela Vioso, our
and the humans who summoned them with a satanic ritual using bath salts.
like to see/read, that touch people. I dont think they have to be realistic
(we already have real life, why imitate it), but believable in their own
universe, therefore the tendency towards magic or supernatural elements
in my work.
I prefer to work with paints and ink and on paper, taking advantage of
the textures of the materials and focusing on the interactions between
characters, with intimate moments happening on sets where I go wild with
prints and patterns such as polka dots and little stars, creating a magical
environment where realism and perspective dont really matter.
Other recurring themes are homosexuality and breaking gender roles
in stories where that in itself isnt the main theme. We need more
representation of these issues in different types of stories; LGBT people
have lives, of which that factor is only a part. The way these issues are
generally treated in media is either to make it the focus of the story (usually
a tragic one) or to pass them on to secondary characters who, beyond
being secondary, ultimately are more comic relief than alike to real people.
These are the conceptual and aesthetic themes behind my current project,
Carnival of Dreams, a hybrid of illustration and comic book. Its a story
about the balance between reality and fantasy, where we follow Emin who,
frustrated with his boring life in a small town, is convinced by Ismael to
temporarily join his magical circus.
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ART
PO RT FO LIO
DANIELA VIOSO
24
PAINTING,
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//
ILLUSTRATION,
COMICS,
FINE
ARTS
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ART
Q&A
How and when did you know this was what you wanted to do or do you still want
I studied Art in high school, was an exchange student for a year in the
United States. Then I graduated in Painting at the Faculty of Fine Arts of the
Although I like having comfort zones, Id like to try more things such as
video or even installation, using them in favour of what I already do. I
honestly think that every day I find new things that Id like to try; one thing
would be to work with game makers and create a visual novel or a simple
game. Im terrible at games but Id love to work in making one.
Murata, another thousand little bits and Catarina Joo, who puts up with
me a lot and with whom I share some ambitious projects.
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Q&A
What has stimulated you more throughout the years and what do you think made
you go farther?
I honestly think Ive always wanted to do something related to art, Ive
never questioned that and my parents even supported me. The fact that
Ive always sustained this as something so definite and present in my life
also made some disappointments more painful but I think that overall
Making stories! Making books! Painting! More and more and more!
if something feels good I do it. I also think, since Ive been gradually
learning how to like myself, my work now cries out a lot less. I dont think it
has lost any of its personality, I just think it has followed the natural order
of things. I still have to grow a lot, but Im happy with the process. I believe
we each connect to work in a different way, I couldnt be like people who
use their work as a vehicle but never project themselves a little bit in it. To
me, our work is always an extension of ourselves, thats why its ours and
no one elses. Thats why I think its so important to for us to be open with
ourselves so that our work can also be more honest, real and unique.
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T H E DIGEST
The
Digest
AMY JUDD
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ANITA LEOCADIA
EIBATOVA KARIN
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LENA C. EMERY
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LOLA GUERRERA
MICHAEL CHASE
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OLGA OPRISCO
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PAUL BENNETT
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YOANN LOSSEL
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DAMIEN MAMMOLITI
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KYLE J. THOMPSON
KACPER KIEC
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