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PREFACE

Greetings to all! I am Oh Se-hoon , Mayor of Seoul. applause to all the winners for expressing their love for Seoul,
and also extend my gratitude to all the participants who narrowly
It is a great pleasure to publish the 12th <Seoul Essay> Award missed their chance this time. I would also like to thank all the
Winners’ Collection this year. staff for their unceasing effort, from essay screening to
publication.
For the past 11 years, the <Seoul Essay> Contest, which has
generated 612 award winners out of 7,000 submissions, has been I sincerely hope that the “12th <Seoul Essay> Award Winners’
exploring the myriads of Seoul memories. This photo-included Collection” will publicize a variety of interesting stories on
essay collection, published starting last year, delves into a range Seoul throughout the world so that Seoul can take a step closer
of stories on art, culture, and traditions in Seoul. As it is in e- to other cities around the world as a clean and attractive city.
book format, it is available everywhere in the world.
Thank you.
As for this year, 14 winners’ essays are the precious fruits
borne in outstanding narratives on the people, culture, lifestyles,
and festivities of Seoul. I would like to give a warm round of Oh Se-hoon, Mayor of Seoul
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prevail. This pseudo-graffiti follows in the footsteps of city


Seoul’s Concrete Caucus youth and appears most prevalently in trendy areas such as
Hongdae and Sinchon. However, it can also turn up
uninhibited on the bathroom stalls, subway billboards, and
table undersides even in Seoul’s most polished districts.
Tiffany Grace Zappulla
There is, perhaps, no city in the world that remains
untouched by this inked form of free expression, which in
Any array of glossy travel brochures can highlight western cultures is labeled “graffiti.” Nakseo, however,
Seoul’s tourist hotspots: elaborately-hued palaces, bold cannot be lumped carelessly into this category of artful
culinary adventures, and all of the vivid nightlife and urban
attitude that accompanies a major modern metropolis.
Caught jaggedly between centuries-old rigor and
contemporary metamorphosis, Seoul’s raw juxtaposition of
the new and old might not be so obvious to distant
onlookers. Nor would one of Seoul’s less noticeable, yet
culturally-rich attributes: nakseo.

Nakseo, which literally translates to “scribbling,” exerts


an overwhelming presence in Seoul, yet remains almost
invisible to a foreigner’s eye should the language barrier
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expulsion. “Graffiti” connotes a weighty sense of negativity, “Jong-hyun loves Seo-hee,” “Jung-woo loves Ji-woo.”
an impression of rebelliousness and defacement borne of Nakseo is a group phenomenon, not an action that occurs
thick text and offensive language. Graffiti refers to surreptitiously with malicious intent. For example, in
inscriptions that signal urban decay or social decline, words Insadong’s Ssamzie Market, Seoulites actively contribute
that mar public surfaces like unsightly, inerasable scars. nakseo to a rainbow-colored wall that appears not a bit out-
of-place among the other exotic works of art lining the
Nakseo, however, reflects purer sentiments: quirky market’s narrow hallways. Moreover, the unabrasive
ramblings or quotes, and most commonly, edicts of love: mediums used in nakseo? the everyday tools of pens,
pencils, and correction tape? give the messages a wholesome
feeling. Their authors are students, lovers, dreamers. The
inherent innocence of nakseo messages draw attention
towards them, not away from them in disgrace. Yet, like
many of Seoul’s hidden charms, they often go unseen. What
cultural significance do these enigmatic “scribbles” have,
and how are they representative of Seoul’s character?

Nakseo is just one of the many ways Seoul can take


something distasteful and make it beautiful. Top-of-the-line
technology is not the only innovation this city boasts: so, too
is the city’s culture ever-changing and evolving in light of
rapid industrial and social development. One of Seoul’s
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greatest assets is its rugged independence and individuality is often inscribed in


even amid an historical Confucian-collectivist backdrop. one particular area, it
While urban sprawl generated graffiti in the west from seeds does not emanate the
of suppressed and disgruntled youth (“criminal art”), nakseo dirty, stained effect as
became the voice of Koreans who simply wanted to share a does graffiti, but
thought with one another, who wanted someone to know that rather the confined,
they were there. Therefore, nakseo subtly encourages unity articulated language
and cohesion in a fast-paced city where the turbulence of life of urban poetry.
draws people further and further apart. Regardless of how
modern Seoul becomes, you will still share your dinner with As for the
everyone at your table and take your shoes off at the door. lyricists themselves,
Koreans were once
You need not even be fluent in Korean to experience the described by popular
feeling behind nakseo; it’s all in the atmosphere. A canvas of media as the “Italians of Asia”: expressive, dynamic,
bamboo shoots in Insadong reminds you that you are in a passionate, and hospitable. The freedom and energy of the
city with traditional East Asian flair; a wall in Seonyudo Republic of Korea’s bustling capital are undisputable, and
Park disguises the word “fool” with proclamations of couple these qualities of its inhabitants couldn’t be more accurate.
hood (though one lone writer laments, “where is my man?”). Due to this unrestrained vigor, art is alive everywhere in
The doodled hearts are enough to communicate the Seoul, from independent art markets and galleries to public
lightheartedness of the messages. Another message inside a works and free concerts. Nakseo suggests that while Seoul
bus ironically demands, “stop doing nakseo!” Since nakseo mirrors other colossal metropolitans, it also retains a unique
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Photo from Seoul

spirit of its own that upholds humility, tradition, and safety


while still knowing how to have fun. If you ever need
another reason why Seoul is an incredible city, the writing’s
on the wall.

Kimchi Event
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A City With Seoul Empire State Building are, to most New Yorkers, tourist traps
that they take no notice of.
Yet, fantastically, tourist traps are something which are
missing from Seoul’s stunning panorama. Ask any Seoulite
for a list of the “must-do”, “must-see” sights of Seoul, and
Eleanor Murchie
you’ll get a list of genuine, beautiful, interesting tourist
attractions. Insadong…the Han River…Namsan Tower. The
nice thing about going to these tourist attractions is that the
When people say that Seoul has soul, they are touching on people you will see there are real Seoulites. It’s not simply a
something that goes much deeper than a mere play on words. place erected pretending to pay tribute to the country’s history
There is truly something about Seoul that is so much more and traditions while in fact ripping off travellers and
‘real’ than other cities in the world. Go to Edinburgh and perpetuating myths in order to make money. These sights are
you’ll see men in kilts with ginger hair walking through the full of…well…Koreans.
old cobbled streets playing the bagpipes. In Amsterdam you This may seem like a bizarre statement. But coming from
might find a Dutch maid, wearing clogs, selling bright yellow Scotland, I am very used to seeing tourists chasing after the
round cheese from a wooden shack. Visit New York and aforesaid bagpiper, cameras in tow, hoping to catch a picture
you’ll be bombarded with miniature figurines of the Statue of with the ‘authentic’ Scotsman before enjoying a dinner of
Liberty and the Empire State Building, and will of course take haggis, neeps and tatties at a local ‘traditional’ Scottish pub in
trips to see both. But it’s rare to find a Scotsperson who can the old town (where of course there won’t be a Scottish person
actually play (or enjoys listening to!) the bagpipes, no-one anywhere to be seen!) And I don’t blame the tourists for this
wears clogs in the Netherlands and the Statue of Liberty and in the least. I am the worst culprit for it. Which is why when I
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first arrived in Seoul, I went straight for the touristy areas, the cable as the breathtaking panorama unfolded beneath us.
places recommended by the Lonely Planet, the places that you Excited children were ushered to the windows; couples
just had to go and see if you were living in Seoul ? precisely wrapped arms around each other as they gazed out the
the places that, in any major city, are overflowing with other window; an elderly gentleman stood straight, proud, helped by
foreign travellers and avoided like the plague by those who his walking stick, and stared down at the busy city life we
actually live and work there. were all escaping for a short while. I wondered how many
Refreshingly, however, I have yet to stumble upon times he’d been here; how many times he’d decided to give up
‘touristy’ Seoul ? places where only foreign tourists go. Any a Sunday afternoon to come and admire the beautiful city he’d
attraction to which I have been recommended has been packed been born and raised in, and to take pride in everything that
with South Koreans, proud of their country and their heritage
and as eager to experience it as any tourist.
N Seoul Tower is one such example of this. It is located
bang in the centre of Seoul, and, being situated on top of
Mount Namsan (hence sometimes being called Namsan
tower), provides onlookers with a panoramic view of Seoul
from 480 metres above sea level. As I got off from
Myeongdong subway station, I parted ways with the other
visitors who were clearly opting for the more arduous route
(their excessive hiking gear gave it away.) Instead I bought a
ticket for the cable car, and five minutes later was huddled in a
compartment, with our little cabin smoothly gliding up the
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had been accomplished in that city in his lifetime. I thought skyscrapers


how wonderful it was that every person in this little piercing the
compartment had come here, not because they were new to skyline amid
this place, and wanted to do the ‘touristy’ thing but because patches of green
this was Korea and they were Korean. They loved it, they belonging to
were proud of it, it was theirs, and they wanted to relish it. Seoul’s gorgeous
After a few minutes in the cable car, the landscape before parks. In the
us opened up, like a realist painting being unrolled. Mounds distance, it is
of trees stood still and proud beneath us, boasting their business as
bountiful bronzed autumn leaves; the deciduous terrain usual: Seoulites
abounded with dazzling oranges, intense reds, burgundies, with suits and
browns, maroons, deep rich greens...the mosaic of nature briefcases dance
captured all of our attention as we gazed, amazed at the beauty in and out of the
which existed so close to the craziness of Seoul’s metropolis. subway stations;
And the further we climbed, the better the view got. Atop ajumas perch on
Mount Namsan, there are ancient Korean chambers, once used stools in the markets, calling out greetings to potential
by Ancient Koreans to send smoke and fire signals to customers, trying to interest them in their kimchi, ttok or
locations outside of Seoul. Leaning over these impressive namul. Agashis chatter on the phone inside their clothes
chambers, which look similar to massive concrete eggcups, stores, offering discounts to customers as they enter. And
the view is no less inspirational. But this time the inspiration winding through the structured jungle is the mighty Han
is man-made. The buildings stretch out for miles, with River, flowing steadily, strongly through the metropolis, a
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symbol of the hope and strength of Seoul. Finally I had some incredible.(And the vista can even be enjoyed from the
perspective on how vast the city truly was. bathroom!)
A nice touch is that printed on each of the immense
In the observation tower itself, just when you think the windows overlooking Seoul are the names of large cities in the
view can’t get any more impressive, it does. It can be reached world and their distance from the tower in kilometres. Tokyo,
by a lift which travels at a high speed as the visitors all grasp 1,157.99km. Berlin, 8,142.17 km. Brazil, 17,522.25 km.
their popping ears as they shoot up into the Seoul sky. As Such precise figures are, in a way, quite humbling. While
everyone steps out onto the rotund observation deck which staring at the distance you currently are from your friends,
provides a 360 degree panoramic vision of the city, “wows” family and loved ones in your own country, you notice others
are murmured all around. The view is, quite simply, around you doing the same. Taking pictures to send to them.
Posing underneath the name of their hometown. To remind
them, and themselves, that in our modern world, no matter
how far away we are from each other, and regardless of our
differences in politics, religion and race, no distance is
uncrossable. Essentially we are all connected by a matter of
kilometres.

Seoul Tower is most definitely somewhere that you can


feel this connection for fellow humans. Perhaps it is because
of the signs on the windows that remind us how vast and yet
how small the world is. Perhaps it is because Seoul Tower is a
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place that lures couples, families and lovers, as they watch the connection between those who attached it remains a secret.
sun set over their beautiful city. Or perhaps it is because of the All that onlookers can know for certain is that someone, who
railings outside the observation tower, which are bedecked once loved, was once here.
with padlocks attached by couples as a symbol of their
affection for each other. And it isn’t limited to lovers ? families too, come, with
children, with parents, with grandparents ? to lock their love
The first glimpse of them is quite stunning. Turning a forever and throw away the key (quite literally!) And
corner, railing upon railing is bejewelled with these tiny although you cannot help but wonder how many of these
padlocks, fighting each other for a space of their own. Some loves will indeed last forever, you realise that it doesn’t in fact
padlocks have been written on, drawn on, coloured in, so that matter ? what matters is that at some point, all of these people
they are easily recognisable should the lovers ever return. felt the same emotion ? that of intense connection to another
Some are bright and colourful, standing out from the garlands human being, and they felt it enough to want to record it ? in
of locks like the first leaf turned bright red on a green however subtle or small a way. And that kind of emotion is
deciduous tree. There are collections of mono-coloured something that can cross any boundary: physical, cultural,
padlocks in the shape of a heart, keychains, bike chains, even political or racial.
bright rubber pipes, each couple wanting to out-do the last and
show that their love is the strongest, that their love is the And the most beautiful thing about all of it is that this isn’t
brightest. Others, however, are plain, simple, blank, just tourist kitsch. It’s real emotion. People are not doing this
occupying a humble place on the railing, hidden away from because they’re told that’s what you do. They are doing it
the clamour of the loud, brash displays. With no obvious because they are feeling something genuine and want to
markings to distinguish their love from another’s, the contribute to this incredible shrine to love. And in fact, they
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Photo from Seoul

are told not to do it ? by the numerous signs erected around the


deck, advising that attaching a padlock is strictly forbidden.
But Koreans defiantly walk past these signs, padlock in one
hand, lover in the other, and find a suitable spot to record their
love. For anyone who says that Korea is a conventional
nation, all they need to do is go to Seoul Tower and witness
for themselves that Seoul is indeed a city overflowing with
beauty, spirit, love, and, of course, soul.

Light Shows at N Seoul Tower


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Photo from Seoul

Lotus Lantern Parade


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Photo from Seoul

Hanbok(Korean Traditional Dress)


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Photo from Seoul

Bukchon Hanok Village

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specifically speaking, the geography, layout, and structure of


Happy Saturday the city make it easy to access the most important attractions
of both urbanity and nature.
My story begins on a July Saturday morning in Yeoksam
dong, where I’m staying with my friend for the short week
Christopher Ash
that I will be in Seoul. I only arrived the night before, but I
was too excited to sleep much and so have gone out early. I
want to see some of my favorite places again. I stop at the
There is something about global cities that makes it easy convenience store in front of my friend’s apartment to pick up
for people to fall in love with them. Some people tell us with a can of coffee for the short walk to Kangnam station. It’s
their t-shirts that they love New York, while others may prefer early in the morning, so I can see some happy people around
Tokyo. Those are great cities, but the city I love more than any the station getting into taxis and busses after a night of good
other place in the world is Seoul. There are many reasons food, drinks, and singing. Are they going home now? Maybe,
Seoul has this special place in my heart, and I would like to but if I were one of them this morning I would go to a sauna
share one of them through the story of how I spent a Saturday next to relax for a while. There are so many choices in Seoul!
morning on my most recent visit to the city last summer. On I think about good times I’ve had in Kangnam as I walk to the
the surface this story could provide a nice walking course for a “Kyobo Tower” center-lane bus stop. I want to take bus
Seoul visitor to follow, but the story also brings to life one of number 402 to Namsan and enjoy a nice walk there. I don’t
the aspects of Seoul that make it such a great city. More have to wait long before a 402 comes along, and I appreciate
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the familiar and new sights as the bus leaves the Kangnam
(south of the river) area. It looks like subway line 9 is almost
finished. Seoulites are going to have even more transportation
options? I envy them so much. Now the bus is coming to the
Hannam Bridge over the Han River. I like this part of the ride.
I want to open the window, but the air conditioning is on in the
bus, so I restrain myself. Anyway, the view is something like a
breath of fresh air. The bus presently reaches the north side of
the river, and I admire Kangbuk’s (north of the river) slightly
different-to-Kangnam character. As the bus starts to climb
Namsan I prepare to get off. I leave the bus at the Hyatt hotel
stop, so that I can begin my walk in Namsan Park. night view from the bus and the tower, so I continue my walk.
The park is very beautiful, as always, and it is so quiet in I haven’t had anything to eat yet, and I’m starting to get a little
some of the inner parts that it would be easy for me to forget hungry. My hunger gives me the great idea of setting my
that I’m in the city. I walk through part of the park and then course for the city hall area, so that I can eat lunch at my
make my way back toward Soweol road, which is also a very favorite pollack soup ( ) restaurant in Mugyo dong. I
scenic place for a walk. If this was my first time here I would leave Namsan and come back into a more urban environment
probably catch the yellow bus and go to Namsan Tower. It’s near Namdaemun Market. I remember that one of my
not my first time here, however, and in any case I prefer the neighbors really liked a bag that I’d bought in Seoul, and
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asked me to get one for him next time I went, since it’s not that I can
easy to find reasonably-priced stylish bags in the US. enjoy a stroll
Namdaemun Market seems like a good place to look for a bag along the
for him, so I decide to walk through. All of the merchants here stream after
speak English, so it’s easy to shop in Namdaemun. I walk lunch every
around for a while until I find a nice bag for a good price, and day. I follow
then leave the market and walk toward city hall. It’s a nice the stream
day, so there are people having picnics and enjoying the good toward Jongro
weather on the grass plaza in front of city hall. Seeing people 2 ga, where
eat makes me hungrier, so I continue on quickly to Mugyo I’m supposed
dong, behind city hall. to meet a
The pollack soup restaurant is just the way I remember it, friend later. I decide to visit nearby Insadong in the meantime
and I enjoy an excellent lunch there. I get a cup of coffee as I to pick up some small gifts to take back to the US. How
leave the restaurant and walk (at a more leisurely pace now, convenient Seoul is! There is plenty to do even if you’re only
because I’m full) along the picturesque tree-lined Mugyo dong passing time waiting to meet someone. I enjoyed my Saturday
road toward Cheonggye stream. I’m happy to see another walk more than I am talented enough to express, and my story
favorite place again when I get to Cheonggyecheon. Here is a goes a little way toward illustrating why Seoul is such a great
perfect marriage between the city and nature. I hope that city to live in or visit.
someday I’ll get a job with an office near Cheonggyecheon so There are different advantages to living in the city and to
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living in the countryside. A good city gives its residents started out in Kangnam, a popular location for offices and
convenient access to jobs, cultural attractions, and leisure having fun. After a short bus ride I was able to enjoy a
activities. The main advantage of the countryside, on the other peaceful mountain park in the center of the city. When I was
hand, is easy access to nature. These are all important things in ready to do something else, a short walk brought me to a
life, so wouldn’t the best place to live be a place where you classic Korean-style market (I could just as easily have gone
could enjoy access to all of these things? Seoul, with its to nearby Myeongdong for shopping in a classic global
unique geography and excellent city planning, is this kind of commerce-style area). After some shopping, I walked through
place. In one happy Saturday morning, I was able to see or a business and administrative district on my way to one of
experience all of the advantages of both urban and rural life. I hundreds of restaurants in the area. The restaurant I went to is
my personal favorite for the type of soup I had, but there are
so many choices. It would be impossible for any given person
to be unable to find some restaurant he or she would like, in
this area alone. The same goes for just about any other type of
business in areas throughout the city. There are so many good
places to discover in Seoul. After my lunch I was only a short
walk away from Cheonggyecheon, a beautiful urban park.
Unfortunately, on this trip I could only stay in Seoul for a
week, but if I was lucky enough to live in the city I would be
happy in having easy access to more or less everything I could
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want. Photo from Seoul


I have described one aspect of what makes Seoul a great
place to live in or visit, but I could tell many more stories that
would highlight other areas the city excels in. The point I want
to make is that as global cities go, Seoul is ahead of the curve
in terms of the quality of life its residents can enjoy. The city
has naturally interesting geography, and its structure and
planning make Seoul a place with easy access to just about
everything anyone could ask for. Of course there are no
absolutely perfect places in the world, but Seoul comes close.

Cheonggyecheon at Night
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Insecurities and Internal Turmoil in From June to August in 2008, I studied Korean at Yonsei
University. I stayed at a hostel and saw Seoul from the eyes of
International Seoul the friends I made at this hostel. Each of them was here for a
different reason, and their individual purposes gave each of
them a special vantage point to observe Seoul. K grew up in
Hawaii. His parents’ were Koreans and he longed to speak to
Geoffrey See them in their native tongue. He had returned to study the
Korean language. Lynn was a law school student from the
United States. She was interning in a chaebol as she
The Third Time contemplates whether Asia was where her future laid. Dave
Last summer was my third time in Seoul and the third was a Canadian who found his way to Seoul to play Starcraft
time is somehow different. On my first visit, I came as a by day and teach English by night. Maya, from Thailand,
tourist. On my second visit, I came as a friend. On my third planned to stay for two weeks. She missed her flight and
visit, I find myself a stranger. It would seem ironic that it is on ended up staying for three months. Through their eyes, I saw
my third visit that I feel at once more familiar with this aspects of Seoul I never knew existed.
beautiful city and at the same time unsure of my place in it. It
is on the third visit when I learned enough about Seoul to The Seoul That Never Sleeps
develop a nuanced appreciation for its beauty and internal Our hostel was nested in one of the backstreets of Seoul
conflicts…I feel more a stranger as I realized how I had only near Sungkyunkwan University. The university traces its
scratched the surface of this complex city on my previous two history back to the Choson dynasty and beyond. Perched atop
trips. a hill, it overlooks a thriving indigenous arts district along a
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street called taehangno. Along taehangno, fancy theaters and them up all night. Somehow I got mixed up in all this, and
bars meet even fancier cafes and restaurants?a veritable they ended up dragging me night after night to the PC-bang to
couple’s delight. I would jog along this street every morning battle against the monstrous aliens and misshapen beasts of
up the hill to where the university perched, and I am reminded the Starcraft world. And it was such a Korean thing to do!
of the vibrancy of New York City’s Broadway theater district K and Lynn, not the biggest Starcraft fans, would head out
everytime. Taehangno is a little smaller and a little younger at night to our favorite 24-hour mandu (dumplings) place. At a
but definitely has its own Asian characteristics that make it thousand won a platter, the mandu was a steal! K
special. recommended I try the kimchi mandu. Suffused with the
Jazz singer Frank Sinatra sings of New York as “the City poignant spiciness of kimchi, it soon became my favorite dish.
that never sleeps.” Like New York, Seoul is unceasing in its We would bring several dozen of them back to the hostel; sit
tireless hum and buzz of city life. I recall sleepless nights from on the floor of the common room and eagerly wash the
my summer in Seoul, not because of the heat and humidity (or dumplings down with Hite beer from the 24-Hour Family
at least not just because of that), but also because of the many Mart convenience store that sits on every corner. We shared
activities the insomniac can choose to engage in. When I first our innermost dreams and worries and secrets until the early
moved into the little hostel, I stayed with two avid Starcraft hours of dawn, knowing that the alcohol that weighed on our
gamers from Bulgaria and Sweden along with Canadian Dave. senses, the shelter of night, and the camaraderie of our shared
They were fascinated with the Starcraft Channel that screens traveler-stranger status would be our vow of silence. Seoul
during the day, showing top Korean players battling it out to was a magical place for its ability to transform the night into a
an excited commentary. At night, they would venture out to day of frenetic activity for our little hostel family.
the nearest PC-bang (PC room) where rows upon rows of And who could forget the endless flow of soju (rice
computers and a non-stop complimentary drink service keep liquor) and hof (beer) that fuel the night. From the clubs of the
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Hongdae university district to the quieter bars near where I Walking a Fine Line between the Local and the Global
lived, one could always find a place where alcohol and people Seoul has a strange relationship to the entity known as the
meet in celebration or solitude. I am never a fan of clubbing foreigner. It is a city that is increasingly international and at
but under pressure from always-eager-to-try-everything Maya, the same time questioning what it means to be Korean and
I caved in and followed her to Hongdae. Under the influence global. Should it co-exist with the foreigner? Should it try to
of loud music and over-priced drinks, crowds of young assimilate them? Should it try to fit into the global orthodoxy?
beautiful people jump and This dilemma is played out in daily interactions, in the
sway to the latest hip-hop workplaces of the famous chaebols, and in its education
tunes. After an hour, I system. This confusion in identity is part of modern day Seoul
decided that this was not and is a part and parcel of the birth pangs of a truly
my thing and told Maya I international city.
wanted to return to the Koften complained about the difficulties of being a
hostel. Echoing a famous Korean who does not speak enough Korean. Talking with
Korean song, Maya said shopkeepers or people he meeting in the streets, he would face
“Baby one more time… expectations that he would behave as a Korean and in failing
five more minutes…one to do so, face marginalization as an outcast son who had
more time…” I ended up chosen to walk away from his culture. He wanted to learn the
crawling back into my Korean language and speak it. But at the same time, he
bed five hours later after realizes that the more he speaks the language, the more he is
the sun had crept back World Cup Stadium ? A girl looks expected to behave as a Korean and be assimilated into the
into the sky. out into Seoul’s night scene culture even when his culture is of his native Hawaii. He gains
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an insight into what being a Seoul resident truly means at the happens in this corporate environment. The chaebol wants
cost of becoming even more confused about who he truly is. talented foreigners like Lynn to work for them as the chaebol
At least when he spoke English, people treated him as an goes global. At the same time, these chaebol have a distinct
outsider and expected him to behave as a foreigner. Life was corporate culture that foreigners find hard to assimilate into.
simpler then. My friend Lynn was bewildered by her summer experience
On the lighter side of cultural confusion, I once tried to filled with hours at the norae bang (karaoke rooms), plentiful
find the famed cultural district of Insa Dong in Seoul. I walked flow of soju, strict corporate hierarchy and the impressively
up to ask a fifty year old local for directions. Using the halting long hours that Koreans are known to put into their work. The
Korean I had painstakingly acquired, I phrased my question in chaebol went out of its way to make them feel comfortable by
an immaculately polite formal form. The elderly gentleman loosening cultural restrictions for her largely foreigner-only
turns towards me, pauses for a second, and answers in near- division. At the same time, this made Lynn feel segregated
perfect English “turn right at the street ahead.” As I nursed from her Korean colleagues and their culture. Where should
plum tea at a traditional teahouse in Insa Dong later that the line lie between the local and the global? Should there
evening, I realized how special that moment had been. At that even be one?
moment, I was a foreigner trying to find my place in the local I am certain Seoul will overcome these uncertainties and
Korean culture while the elderly gentleman was a Korean find its place as an international city with a Korean flavor.
trying to find his place in an increasingly international city. Some years ago, there was an advertisement in Seoul featuring
In another different world, Lynn the Lawyer started her Korean B-Boy group Last For One doing impressive hip-hop
work at a local chaebol?one of the large Korean moves to the tunes of Pachalbel’s Canon played by
conglomerates whose brands are renown worldwide. The Sookmyung University students on the Kayagum?a traditional
same inner turmoil between being Korean and being global Korean string instrument. It was hybridism at its best. It took
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elements of global culture and transformed it in a way that stream, ending our night at nearby Insa Dong indulging in
made it distinctly Korean. I think this is the potential of Seoul traditional Korean teas or wines.
as a global city?a city that distills the global into a distinctly Some changes are for the better. Others just leave me
Korean flavor. Perhaps being part of this changing dynamic is nostalgic. On my first trip to Seoul, I stayed at a youth hostel
what brings people here. located in the backalleys near the Sinseol-Dong metro station.
This was in an old part of Seoul. I spent an hour navigating the
Disappearing Seoul maze-like backalley trying to find my hostel after arriving
The problem with visiting Seoul is that every time I exiting the station. In the process, I was exposed to the rich
return, the city confronts me with comforting familiarities and heritage of Korean post-war housing. Like a rabbit’s warren,
disconcerting differences. It is a city that is always growing the backalleys were filled with single-storey houses in a
and changing with the beat and hum or the global economy. traditional style. One enters the house through a front-gate into
During my first trip in 2005, I never saw the beautiful a small little garden or an open space with a table in the center.
Cheonggyechon stream that cuts through the heart of the Residents sat around the table on the floor chatting. Sounds of
business district. It was completed just after I left Seoul. Now, karaoke occasionally drifted out from some of these buildings.
it is a fixture in my visits to Seoul. Its beautiful colors after The alleys wind around a hilly region with no apparent order
sunset and the tranquility it offers in the midst of a chaotic and many paths led to dead ends.
urban center have made it my favorite refuge. Lynn, Maya and Three years later, I returned to this area with Maya to
I would often camp out alongside the stream under a bridge retrace this past. I had problems finding my hostel this time
with a bottle of Hite/Cass beer oblivious to the traffic not because the streets were disorderly, but because order had
trundling pass over our heads. Every time a friend visited, I invaded my old home. Many of the old houses had
would end up walking with them along the length of the disappeared and in their place were modern two-storey
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bungalows and multi-storied condominiums. The roads were


no longer tiled but were now composed of bitumen to give
access to cars. No longer were dead ends and winding trails
the navigational hurdle of the place. Instead, parallel roads that
hindered with their matching banal identities. Perhaps this is
the price of modernization...Seoul is continually changing to
chase its destiny. But its pace leaves me, at just 23, feeling like
an old man.
Seoul’s destiny is one of shiny skyscrapers holding the
most modern corporations alongside roadside stalls selling the
most traditional Korean snacks. The area north of the Han
river that cuts Seoul into two, the older part of Seoul, is a mish
mash of old and new buildings constantly renewing itself as it
chases its younger cousin south of the river. South of the river
is the newer Seoul. It was developed after the Korean War to
placate the needs of Seoul’s feverish population and economic
growth. While skyscrapers and massive shopping complexes
(such as Coex) dominate the scene here, a distinctive Korean
flavor is added by the occasional roadside stalls selling the
local favorite ddeokbukki?rice cakes doused in a thick chili
Han River ? Wondering about identity and change paste. Its fieriness is not for the faint of heart. At the same
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time, there had been an explosion of wine bars since my last bang (karaoke) culture, a love for ddeokbukki, and spoke
visit in 2006 as among my younger Korean friends, wine is enough Korean to get around. However, I was now worrying
starting to displace soju as the hip thing. This is not just about more about speaking in the correct language forms: honorifics
food culture, but about the old Seoul coexisting with the new for older people or pan mal (ordinary speech) to my close
Seoul at the same place and time. It is about a city that refuses friends. Respecting a hierarchy through language is part of
to lose its heritage to a homogenizing urbanization process. fitting into the Korean culture, but it was also at odds with my
international identity growing up in Singapore, China and the
Moving On USA hierarchy is more fluid. Perhaps feeling this conflict is
My stay in Seoul was inadvertently cut short when I had
to return to the US to interview for a place at Harvard
Business School. My surrogate family at the hostel chipped in
by helping me prepare for my interview?I wonder when I
would see them again. Leaving Seoul, I was a paradox of
sadness and relief. The city had given me great memories. My
friends at the hostel have become my surrogate family. I was
just beginning to ease into the rhythm of the city. Eating
mandu for a midnight snack, sitting by the Cheonggyecheon,
or wandering around Coex had become a part of my daily
routine. It was beginning to feel comfortable.
At the same time, I was increasingly confused as I
inherited the identity issues of Seoul. I had adopted the norae Deoksu Palace ? A contrast of old and new
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what it means to truly understand Seoul as a foreigner.


Photo from Seoul
On my last day here, I went to City Hall to await the bus
that would take me to the airport. Contrasted against modern
hotels and a Dunkin Donuts was Deoksu palace?its heritage
stretched all the way back to 1593. I could not help but
wonder whether it was the palace or the Dunkin Donuts that
felt more awkward in their spot. Or perhaps they were at peace
with each other. This dynamic, between the old and new,
makes me want to return again to see what this global city
with a Korean feel would look like in the future.

November 2008 Postscript


Dave is still teaching in Seoul. K moves out of the hostel
to study Korean after he realizes that we were keeping him
from making much progress. Maya eventually bought a ticket
and headed back to Thailand where she plans to start an
Gyeongbokgung at Night
organic farm after her experience living in one just outside of
Seoul. Lynn plans to head to New York City to study for the
bar exam. As for me, I plan to head on to graduate school so
that I can continue to travel and maybe return to Seoul again
someday.
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have their charm. The reason why I like Changdeokgung best


The beauty of Seoul is because of the secret garden. Imagine you’re in the center of
this busy metropolis where crowds of people are constantly on
the move.

Rainer Rippe
O n c e
you’ve entered
the palace gates
Dear friend, you’re in a
different world.
I’m so glad you’re thinking about visiting me in Seoul. It’s as if you’ve
Let me give you some impressions of what awaits you. taken a leap
back in time of
Of course Seoul is a very big and modern city that can be several hundred
quite hectic but I would like to take you for a walk to some years. As you’re being guided past all the impressive royal
quiet places where the past and the present coexist buildings you all of sudden find yourself in the middle of the
harmoniously. woods with trees that are so tall that you can’t even see the
surrounding high-rise buildings anymore.
There are five ancient palaces in Seoul and all of them

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Y o u These days the majority of Seoulites cherish the space and


completely comfort of modern apartments ? just like in many other parts
forget you’re in of the world. In Bukchon, however, the old Korea is still alive.
a city and then The harmonious combination of wood and stone is not to be
? there it is: the missed and if you would like to spend a night to remember I
secret garden! can reserve a stay at a Hanok guesthouse for you.
There are
s e v e r a l Our walk then will lead us to Samcheong-dong, to a street
beautiful old with lots of jewelers and fashion boutiques and a European
buildings by a pond among the most tranquil atmosphere you flair. Unlike everywhere else in Seoul the cafes here do not
can think of. It’s awesome! The royal family must have felt belong to the big chains like Starbucks and thus each of them
blessed to call a place so beautiful and relaxing their own. has its individual atmosphere. Surprisingly many tourists
haven’t heard about this beautiful area which seems to be one
After we hesitantly leave the palace grounds we stay in of the best-kept secrets of Seoul.
that area to view some traditional Korean houses in Bukchon.
In this village, located between two palaces, old Hanoks have Not far from there is a Buddhist temple called Jogyesa.
been preserved and you can get an idea of what Seoul looked There are always some friendly volunteers who are happy to
liked until half a century ago. explain everything you may want to know about Buddhism
and if you’re curious enough you can even sign up for an

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overnight stay at a green-onion pancake is one of my favorite Korean dishes but


temple. of course I can recommend many more, especially if you like
spicy food.
There is a main
hall with three Finally we’ll take a walk along the Cheonggyecheon. This
golden Buddha stream flows all the way from Gwanghwamun to
statues where people Dongdaemun market and is particularly beautiful at night. All
pray, bow and read around us tower the high-rise buildings of downtown Seoul
in their sacred scripts. Behind it is a bell pavilion with four and we can hear the sounds of the nightlife from afar but ? like
instruments inside: a giant bell, a huge drum, a cloud-shaped in the beginning of our walk ? it feels as if we’re in a different
gong and a fish-shaped drum. If we’re lucky enough we can world from that. That’s the beauty of Seoul ? it’s where the
witness the ringing of the bell or a drum ceremony. past comes alive.

Just around the corner is Insa-dong, one of the most I’m looking forward to showing you Seoul!
popular areas among tourists. You can find lots of arts-and-
crafts shops, galleries and restaurants there. Yours,

After so much walking you’ll surely be hungry and I can Rainer


show you a place where they serve delicious Pajeon. This

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On that very first day


I Dream of Seoul in Namdaemun, the city of
Seoul swept me off my
feet-it was love at first
sight. I found myself being
Lucy Burford
carried along by the flow
of the crowd as the ever-
moving sea of umbrellas
My first trip to Seoul was on a cold and rainy Saturday bobbed through, up, down
afternoon and I was headed for the Namdaemun markets. and all around the maze of
Upon arriving in Seoul, I was struck by its beauty-even the markets, I was a part of
despite the weather. The streets were clean and wide and there all the hustle and bustle
was a sense of excitement about the place, which I couldn’t and I loved it. The perfect
wait to be a part of. Seoul is the kind of place that you could opportunity for a photograph presented itself and click a
explore for years on end and never exhaust its secrets. It is moment was forever frozen in time, in a picture that begs to be
forever presenting you with new and wonderful things to see looked at over and over again, to be explored just like the city
and do, it constantly beckons to the adventurer within us all that created it.
saying, “come, play with me, I promise you won’t be
disappointed.” Subsequent adventures into Seoul have deepened my
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affection for it. It has slowly revealed some of its many secrets journey when I was suddenly struck by the remarkable beauty
to me and I have looked upon each and every one of them as a of the lights of the city and the superb colour of the sky.
treasure to be remembered for years to come. The discovery of An endlessly moving, vibrant and energetic cityscape,
a new area, the changing of the seasons, a walk through the Seoul proves that urban scenes can be beautiful in their own
city at twilight; each aspect has its own unique appeal and its right. Seoul is a mix of old, traditional influences and fresh,
own beauty. modern ones, casually blended in a manner that is effortlessly
charming and carefree. Sometimes I feel that someone with
One particular great flair must have done a considerable amount of planning
twilight jaunt along to have put Seoul together the way that it is. Perhaps this is
Cheonggyecheon stays true to some extent but I think what really gives the city its
fixed in my mind appeal is the organic quality it has. It has evolved and grown
however. into a city that truly represents the people that inhabit it. The
It was during city of Seoul, like the folk who live, work and play there, is
spring, a beautiful time modern, fashionable and stylish, and also deeply respectful of
to be in Seoul, and the traditions, customs and culture.
young and the old alike
were out enjoying the I’ve never been to a place with such historical depth
lovely weather. I was before and this was ever more apparent to me on a visit to
crossing a road on my Changdeokgung. I had heard that the autumn leaves in the
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Secret Garden were magnificent so I booked a place on a tour


of the garden in November.
The garden was an absolute delight. The colours of the
autumn leaves were a real treat in all their glorious shades of
red, yellow and orange and as I wandered amongst the trees I
couldn’t help but wonder what some of them would have to
say if they could talk. As the tour passed one particular tree
this thought seemed especially significant, the tree, we were
informed, was over 700 years old. I daresay that tree would
have a many a story to tell about the city of Seoul!

Although it’s safe to assume that I won’t live to be 700, I


know for sure that Seoul will stay with me for the rest of my
days. I will continue to explore Seoul in photographs and
memories no matter where my travels take me and in the
meantime, I’m happy to say that Seoul and I have many more
adventures planned together yet.
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Baegundae and blew my nose a lot. Sad to see me sick, my father believed
that jogging was a natural way to safely cure me of my boring
illnesses. Unfortunately, I disliked jogging! When I ran, I felt
my heart thumping in my chest, my thighs rubbing against
each other, and my ankles aching. It was very uncomfortable!
Korakoch Arunpongpaisan
In contrast, my father loved running and he could spend hour
after hour doing it every day. Despite his encouragement, and
despite recognising how good sport was for my health, I gave
When I first arrived in Seoul, I did a lot of shopping. up. I just couldn’t force myself to run anymore!
There are a lot of lovely things here that I couldn’t resist
buying. I like Seoul because it is a paradise for the fashionista
and craft creators. But now shopping is no longer my main
hobby ? hiking is. Then, you may well ask, how a person who
likes shopping, loves making handcrafts, and hates playing
sports, fall in love with such a strenuous activity? It’s called a
little peak named Baegundae of Bhukan Mountain.

When I was a young girl, my beloved sporty father was


always insisting that I run around the lake in front of our home
to get healthy. Indeed, I suffered from bad allergies: I sneezed
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When I became Mrs to my beloved sporty husband, he When my husband started talking about hiking up
asked me over and over to go hiking with him. I tried in vain Bhukansan for the first time, I just thought “Here we go
to persuade him to go with his friends. However, on occasion I again!” Actually, I knew well that he would propose it to me
did accompany him just to make sure he wasn’t asking because Korea is the Country of Mountains. Once he told me
another woman instead of me! It’s true, hiking was less tiring that Bhukansan wasn’t far at all, only 20 minutes from our
than jogging, but that wasn’t really the problem. The problem home, I was so surprised because we always took about 4
was that it was just boring. Firstly, we had to drive about 2 hours just for a round trip transportation. This time, it was
hours from our home to a mountain. Then, we (or rather my only 40 minutes!! 6 times less!! Moreover, we lived in the
husband) had to carry a heavy rucksack containing our meal capital: how, I wondered, was it possible that there was a
and some hiking gear. We’d prepared to walk not less than 4 Mountain in the urban centre? In addition, he reassured me
hours. We walked and walked, stopped and drank, walked and that we could reach the Baegundae Peak in 2 hours and finish
walked, stopped and drank, had lunch and continued, so on, the hiking by noon, if we went there quite early! Kidding??
for so long. I couldn’t help but wonder: what had I done NO? OK, so let’s see!!
wrong? Why did I have to suffer this kind of cruel journey? I
grew up then! Why couldn’t I just do what I was interested in! Baegundae, the most well-known Peak of Bhukan
If I don’t like any kind of sports, it isn’t my fault. I just wasn’t Mountain, is situated only 14 kilometres from downtown
made for it! I kept asking myself this each time we did this Seoul. It’s so practical to reach, we could even get there by
kind of activity. But that was before we’d moved to Seoul. subway and bus. Where else in the world would we find such
Before I’d met Baegundae. a natural source in such a big city? When we were starting our
hiking, I gladly took my time to look around. I didn’t care to
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have the best hiking time. There were interesting things to


admire: different local plants I’d never seen; a stream beside
the trail; a stone path requiring more energy to climb, red
Maple trees surrounding a stairway. I enjoyed it so much that I
didn’t notice we’d already done more than 3 quarters. We
were almost getting to the destination. It was so easy!

Once the last path to the peak appeared in front of me, I


thought “Oh! What the heck!” The slope was nearly 90
degrees!! There were no trees, no grass and no stones
anymore, only a pure granite peak! “How can I “climb” this?
It is impossible! Impossible!!!” At that moment, a long queue
of people began forming up behind me. People were waiting However, while I was climbing the rock, I almost cried
for me to keep going. At that second, I was literally between “Why am I risking my life like this?” “Will I die here?” “Will
rock and a hard place! I could either die from falling off of the someone find my body?” While I was worrying about my fate,
mountain or from losing face if I decided to turn back. I chose a fifty years old Korean man with working trousers was
to continue on! At least, if I fell off of the mountain, I “flying” past me. He barely needed the metal cable. He
wouldn’t have any more face to lose because my entire body scrambled up the rock at top speed. The sloping rock seemed
would be crushed!! Fortunately, there was a big metal cable to like a children’s playground for him. Wow! He was much
help hikers haul themselves up. older than me so if he could do it, I could too, I told myself, I
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really could. Suddenly, I strongly grabbed the cable, pulled it, admire the 360°C
hauled my self up, and climbed and climbed. Another man degree view of Seoul.
who was descending from the Peak spoke to me in Korean. I The height of the
didn’t understand what he said but I knew he was trying to peak didn’t matter.
explain what I should do to climb safely. I even looked The important thing
backwards to admire my courage so far. Even though my legs was we realized that
were trembling, I tried not to think about them. GO GO GO! we could achieve
more than we ever
When I arrived at the Peak, I felt fulfilled with my effort. I thought possible.
had done it! It was so exciting! I shouted inside of my chest: “I
am the Winner!” On the narrow Peak of BAEGUNDAE, I Just underneath
shared this little space with other ‘winners’! We shared our the Peak, on the right
success through our sweat, our breath, our smile, our by descending, there
wordlessness. Even though the area was limited, we tried to is a large rock slab
not bother, or at least to bother as little as possible, the others where people can have a rest. Many people stopped there to
who were taking pictures. Indeed, who else could resist taking have a snack, some drinks, or even to gobble some Ramyeon.
some souvenir from this wonderful place even though we They admired the rolling landscape, made jokes between
knew well that the real landscape was so much more beautiful themselves, and cleaned up before continuing on the hike.
than on paper. People who were near the cable barrier, moved After drinking some coffee, I would have loved
a bit with care to allow other winners to get closer and also to lie on the rock ground, breath in warm sunshine under
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the blue sky and let the light sun’s ray get through my skin. becomes my favourite, that’s because hiking isn’t a boring
But there wasn’t enough space to do that. So I just hugged my activity anymore.
knees together and leaned my head on them, closed my eyes. I
felt so restful in my little world. In the country I lived in before moving to Korea, hiking
When I was back home, I thought of Bhukansan: I seems like a privileged activity for those who live in the
thought of all the experiences I had had there: fun, happiness, provinces or who have enough means to pay for transportation
excitement, peacefulness and good health. I realized how and have enough time to spend. But in Seoul, hiking is a fair
Seoulites are so lucky to live in such a big city and at the same activity. Hiking belongs to everyone: kids, teenagers, men,
time be able to reach so easy such a natural park. Finally, I women and senior citizens. Even if you only have a half day
mostly think about the last path to Baegundae where I had to off, you can relax by going to Baegundae. At this place, I saw
“climb”. Certainly, at first sight, it may seem dangerous but many kinds of relations; family with family, friends with
with the big metal cable and experienced hikers who are there friends, lovers with lovers, and even men and pets. This place
and pleased to help you, the success is guaranteed for you. I brings so many loved people together. If you have an occasion
thought how much I would like to go back again. So two to go there and see large crowd of people especially during
weeks later, my husband and I returned. In fact, my husband weekend, don’t worry and don’t hesitate. Just be patient and
was so surprised that I had proposed to go back to Baegundae. tell yourself that you are now surrounded by love!!
He thought that it was a good sign for us to broaden our hiking
adventures. Yes, I thought, why not: this time I really want to
discover other mountains! I am no more wondering why
Korean people are fascinated by hiking. And if this place
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Photo from Seoul

Banpo Rainbow Fountain

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