Diagnosis and Testing Blazer

BLAZER
MANUAL CHEVROLET BLAZER 1998.

Diagnosis and Testing
The symptoms of a defective component within the DI system are exactly the same as
those you would encounter in a conventional or HEI system. Some of these symptoms
are:
Hard or no Starting
Rough Idle
Fuel Poor Economy
Engine misses under load or while accelerating
If you suspect a problem in the ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks
which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the
system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state
of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of
the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all
wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor
cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
1. Check the cap for tiny holes and carbon tracks as follows.
a. Remove the cap and place an ohmmeter lead on the cap terminal.
b. Use the other lead to probe all the other terminals and the center carbon
ball.
2. If the readings are not infinite, the cap must be replaced.
SECONDARY SPARK TEST
It is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit
checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition
system. To check the secondary ignition system, perform a simple spark test.
1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert some sort of extension in the plug
socket. An old spark plug with the ground electrode removed makes a good
extension.
2. Hold the wire and extension about 1/4 in. (0.25mm) away from the block and
crank the engine.
3. If a normal spark occurs, then the problem is most likely not in the ignition
system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.
4. If, however, there is no spark or a weak spark, then test the ignition coil and the
camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. For testing the camshaft and
crankshaft position sensors, refer to .
IGNITION COIL
See Figure 1
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
1. Tag and disconnect the wires from the ignition coil.
2. Using a digital ohmmeter set on the high scale, probe the ignition coil as shown
in Step 1 of the accompanying illustration.
Fig. 1: Ignition coil testing points

3. The reading should be infinite. If not replace the coil.
4. Using the low scale of the ohmmeter, probe the ignition coil as shown in Step 2
of the accompanying illustration. The reading should be 0.1 ohms, if not replace
the coil.
5. Using the high scale of the ohmmeter, probe the ignition coil as shown in Step 3
of the accompanying illustration. The reading should be 5k-25k ohms, if not
replace the coil.
6. Reconnect the wires to the ignition coil.
Distributor
REMOVAL
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Tag and remove the spark plug wires and the coil leads from the distributor.
3. Unplug the electrical connector at the base of the distributor.
Fig. 1: Mark the distributor and tag the spark

plug wires
Fig. 2: A distributor wrench can be used to

loosen hold-down bolt
4. Loosen the distributor cap fasteners and remove the cap.
5. Using a marker, matchmark the rotor-to-housing and housing-to-engine block
positions so that they can be matched during installation.
6. Loosen and remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
7. Remove the distributor from the engine.
Fig. 3: Remove the distributor hold-down bolt

and clamp
Fig. 4: Be sure to mark the distributor position

before removing it
INSTALLATION
Engine Not Disturbed
1. Install the distributor in the engine making sure that the matchmarks are
properly aligned.
2. If the rotor-to-housing and housing-to-engine marks are not aligned, the
distributor gear may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case repeat the
installation process until the marks are perfectly aligned.
3. Install the hold-down clamp and bolt, then tighten the bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
4. Install the distributor cap and attach the electrical connector at the base of the
distributor.
5. Attach the spark plug wires and coil leads.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Engine Disturbed
1. Remove the No. 1 cylinder spark plug.
2. Turn the engine using a socket wrench on the large bolt on the front of the
crankshaft pulley. Place a finger near the No. 1 spark plug hole and turn the
crankshaft until the piston reaches Top Dead Center (TDC). As the engine
approaches TDC, you will feel air being expelled by the No. 1 cylinder. If the
position is not being met, turn the engine another full turn (360 degree). Once
the engine's position is correct, install the spark plug.
3. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white
painted alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.
4. Using a long screwdriver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the
mating drive tab in the distributor.
5. Install the distributor in the engine.
6. When the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the
pointer cast in the distributor base. The pointer will have a "6" or "8" cast into it
indicating a 6 or 8-cylinder engine. If the rotor segment is not within a few
degrees of the pointer, the distributor gear may be off a tooth or more. If this is
the case repeat the process until the rotor aligns with the pointer.
7. Install the cap and fasten the mounting screws.
8. Install the hold-down clamp and bolt, then tighten the bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
9. Engage the electrical connections and the spark plug wires.
General Information
The Distributor Ignition (DI) system consists of the distributor, hall effect
switch (camshaft position sensor), ignition coil, secondary wires, spark
plugs, knock sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. The system is
controlled by the Vehicle Control Module (VCM). The VCM using information
from various engine sensors, controls the spark timing, dwell, and the firing
of the ignition coil. It is used on the 1993-98 models.
Ignition Coil
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. 1: Ignition coil mounting-4.3L engines

1. Tag and unplug the wiring connectors from the coil and the coil wire.
2. Unfasten the retainers securing the coil bracket and coil to the manifold.
3. Remove the coil and bracket and drill out the two rivets securing the coil to the
bracket.
4. Remove the coil from the bracket.
To install:
The replacement coil kit may come with the two screws to attach the coil to the bracket.
If not, you must supply your own screws.
Fig. 2: Ignition coil mounting-5.0 and 5.7L

engines
Fig. 3: Ignition coil mounting-7.4L engines

5. Fasten the coil to the bracket using two screws.
6. Fasten the coil and bracket to the manifold. Tighten the retainers until they are
snug.
7. Engage the coil wire and the wiring connectors to the coil.
FIRING ORDERS
To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been
removed previously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold the correct firing
order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the
engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any
of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying
illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, take note how your engine is wired.
Fig. 1: 1988-95 4.3L Engines Firing Order: 1-65-4-3-2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise
Fig. 2: 19-95 4.3L Engines Firing Order: 1-6-54-3-2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise
Fig. 3: 1988-95 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines

Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise
Fig. 4: 1996-98 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines

Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise
Description And Operation

See Figures 1 and 2
The General Motors HEI system is a pulse-triggered, transistorized controlled, inductive

discharge ignition system. The entire HEI system (except for the ignition coil) is
contained within the distributor cap.
The distributor, in addition to housing the mechanical and vacuum advance
mechanisms, contains the electronic control module, and the magnetic triggering device.
The magnetic pick-up assembly contains a permanent magnet, a pole piece with internal
teeth, and a pick-up coil (not to be confused with the ignition coil).
Fig. 1: Distributor components-coil-in-cap
Fig. 2: Distributor components-coil separate

In the HEI system, as in other electronic ignition systems, the breaker points have been
replaced with an electronic switch-a transistor-which is located within the control
module. This switching transistor performs the same function the points did in an
conventional ignition system. It simply turns coil primary current on and off at the
correct time. Essentially then, electronic and conventional ignition systems operate on
the same principle.
The module which houses the switching transistor is controlled (turned on and off) by a
magnetically generated impulse induced in the pick-up coil. When the teeth of the
rotating timer align with the teeth of the pole piece, the induced voltage in the pick-up
coil signals the electronic module to open the coil primary circuit. The primary current
then decreases, and a high voltage is induced in the ignition coil secondary windings
which is then directed through the rotor and high voltage leads (spark plug wires) to fire
the spark plugs.
In essence then, the pick-up coil module system simply replaces the conventional
breaker points and condenser. The condenser found within the distributor is for radio
suppression purposes only and has nothing to do with the ignition process. The module
automatically controls the dwell period, increasing it with increasing engine speed.
Since dwell is automatically controlled, it cannot be adjusted. The module itself is nonadjustable and non-repairable and must be replaced if found defective.
HEI SYSTEM PRECAUTIONS
Before going on to troubleshooting, it might be a good idea to take note of the following
precautions:
Timing Light Use
Inductive pick-up timing lights are the best kind to use if your truck is equipped with
HEI. Timing lights which connect between the spark plug and the spark plug wire
occasionally (not always) give false readings.
Spark Plug Wires
The plug wires used with HEI systems are of a different construction than conventional
wires. When replacing them, make sure you get the correct wires, since conventional
wires won't carry the voltage. Also, handle them carefully to avoid cracking or splitting
them and never pierce them.
Tachometer Use
Not all tachometers will operate or indicate correctly when used on a HEI system.
While some tachometers may give a reading, this does not necessarily mean the reading
is correct. In addition, some tachometers hook up differently from others. If you can't
figure out whether or not your tachometer will work on your truck, check with the
tachometer manufacturer.
HEI Systems Testers
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several
tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests
given in the following section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.
Diagnosis and Testing

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as
those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:
Hard or no Starting
Rough Idle
Fuel Poor Economy
Engine misses under load or while accelerating
If you suspect a problem in the ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks
which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the
system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state
of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of
the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all
wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor
cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
SECONDARY SPARK TEST
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the
distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first.
If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not
the fault of the ignition system. To check the secondary ignition system, perform a
simple spark test.
1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert some sort of extension in the plug
socket. An old spark plug with the ground electrode removed makes a good
extension.
2. Hold the wire and extension about 1/4 in. (.009mm) away from the block and
crank the engine. If a normal spark occurs, then the problem is most likely not in
the ignition system.
3. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.
4. If, however, there is no spark or a weak spark, then further ignition system
testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into two categories,
depending on the nature of the problem. The categories are (1) Engine cranks,
but won't start or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough or cuts out.
Engine Fails to Start
1. If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. If no spark
occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT)
terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position
for this test.
2. If battery voltage is not present, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition
primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check
wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light.
3. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the
problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to test the ignition coil.
Engine Runs, but Runs Roughly or Cuts Out
1. Make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious
cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not
pierce the wires with a probe.
2. If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly, and check for moisture,
cracks, chips, or carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures.
3. Replace the cap if you find any defects. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when
the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to test the ignition
coil.
IGNITION COIL
Carbureted Engines
1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor
cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than one ohm (zero or nearly
zero).
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor
button and the BAT terminal. Then connect the ohmmeter between the ground
terminal and the rotor button. The resistance in both cases should be between
6000 and 30,000 ohms.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and 2 are infinite.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can be
detected only with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments
are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.
Fuel Injected Engines
See Figure 1
1. Tag and disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil.
2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 1 of the accompanying illustration.
Place the ohmmeter on the high scale. The reading should be infinite.
Fig. 1: Fuel injected engine ignition coil test

3. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 2 of the same illustration. Place the
ohmmeter on the low scale. The reading should be very low or zero. If not
replace the coil.
4. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 3 of the same illustration. Place the
ohmmeter on the high scale. The meter should not read infinite. If it does replace
the coil.
5. Connect the distributor lead and wiring.
PICK-UP COIL
1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set
the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the
white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinity requires
replacement of the pick-up coil.
Fig. 2: The pick-up coil is located inside the

distributor
Fig. 3: Testing the pick-up coil-coil-in-cap
Fig. 4: Testing the pick-up coil-separate coil

2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range)
between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 500 and 1500
ohms. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test. This will
detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent
misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the
module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the
only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution
test, replace it.
Ignition Coil
Carbureted Engines
See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the feed and module wire terminal connectors from the distributor
cap.
2. Remove the ignition set retainer.
3. Remove the 4 coil cover-to-distributor cap screws and coil cover.
Fig. 1: Check the condition of the arc seal under

the coil
4. Remove the 4 coil-to-distributor cap screws.
5. Using a blunt drift, press the coil wire spade terminals up out of distributor cap.
6. Lift the coil up out of the distributor cap.
7. Remove and clean the coil spring, rubber seal washer and coil cavity of the
distributor cap.
8. Coat the rubber seal with a dielectric lubricant furnished in the replacement
ignition coil package.
9. Reverse the above procedures to install.
Fuel Injected Engines
See Figure 2
1. Make sure that the ignition switch is in the OFF position.
2. Tag and disconnect the coil wire and the connector on the side of the coil.
3. Remove the nuts holding the coil and bracket assembly to the engine and lift out
the coil. The coil is riveted to the bracket, to remove it will require drilling the
rivets and punching them out.
4. Position the coil on the engine and tighten the nuts.
5. Connect the coil wire and electrical connectors.
Fig. 2: Be careful not to break the locktabs when

unplugging the connectors
Module
See Figure 1
1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as previously described.
2. Disconnect the harness connector and pickup coil spade connectors from the
module. Be careful not to damage the wires when removing the connector.
Fig. 1: Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with

silicone lubricant
3. Remove the two screws and module from the distributor housing.
4. Coat the bottom of the new module with dielectric silicone lubricant. This is
usually supplied with the new module. Reverse the above procedure to install.
Vacuum Advance Unit

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as previously described.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance unit.
3. Remove the two vacuum advance retaining screws, pull the advance unit
outward, rotate and disengage the operating rod from its tang.
4. Reverse the above procedure to install.
Auxiliary Fan Switch
OPERATION
The auxiliary fan circuit contains the auxiliary fan, coolant temperature sensor and a
relay. When the sensor reaches a predetermined temperature, it closes the circuit to the
relay. This energizes the relay sending 12 volts to the auxiliary fan. When the
temperature decreases below the set point of the sensor, the circuit opens and the
voltage is no longer applied to the auxiliary fan.
TESTING
1. Check the condition of the fan switch and wiring. Repair as necessary.
2. Attach one end of a jumper wire to a good 12 volt power source and the other
end of the jumper wire to the orange wire at the cooling fan relay.
3. The fan should operate. If the fan does operate the switch is probably defective.
4. If the fan does not operate, unplug the fan electrical harness and apply 12 volts
directly to the fan. If the fan does not operate, the fan motor is probably
defective. If the fan does operate, the relay could be defective.
2. Disconnect the sensor electrical lead and unscrew the sensor. The sensor can be
found on the right side of the engine.
To install:
3. Install the sensor or relay and connect the electrical lead.
4. Connect the battery cable.
Coolant Temperature Sender

OPERATION
The coolant temperature sender changes resistance as the coolant temperature increases
and decreases.
TESTING
1. Check the instrument cluster fuse condition and replace as necessary.
2. Check the sender wire for damage and repair as necessary.
3. Unplug the sender electrical connection.
4. Attach one end of a jumper wire to the sender electrical connector and the other
end of the jumper wire to ground.
5. If the gauge functions properly, replace the sender.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine coolant.
2. Disconnect the sensor electrical lead and unscrew the sensor.
To install:
3. Install the sensor and tighten it to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). Connect the electrical lead.
4. Connect the battery cable and fill the engine with coolant.
Fig. 1: Coolant temperature and oil pressure

senders-4.3L engines

senders-5.0L and 5.7L engines

senders-7.4L engines

senders-6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines
Oil Pressure Sender

OPERATION
The oil pressure sender relays to the dash gauge the oil pressure in the engine.
TESTING
1. Check the instrument cluster fuse condition and replace as necessary.
2. Check the sender wire for damage and repair as necessary.
3. Unplug the sender electrical connection.
4. Attach one end of a jumper wire to the sender electrical connector and the other
end of the jumper wire to ground.
5. If the gauge reads functions properly, replace the sender.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine oil.
2. Disconnect the sensor electrical lead and unscrew the sensor. The sensor can be
found on the top side of the engine, near the distributor.
To install:
3. Coat the first two or three threads with sealer. Install the sensor and tighten until
snug. Engage the electrical lead.
4. Connect the battery cable and fill the engine with oil.
SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS

The sensors covered in this section are not related to engine control. They are for gauges
and warning lights only. For sensors related to engine control refer to Electronic Engine
Controls in
General Information
The starting motor is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of
producing a great amount of power for its size. One thing that allows the motor to
produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine
through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the starter's armature), which drives the very
large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to
produce so much power is that only intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little
allowance for air circulation is required, and the windings can be built into a very small
space.
TESTING
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged and that the battery terminal connections
are clean and tight.
2. Check the starter motor wiring for damage and/or open and shorted wires.
3. Check that all starter motor electrical connections are clean and tight.
4. If the starter motor cranks slowly and the solenoid clicks or chatters, test the
starter motor as follows:
a. Turn the ignition key to the start position.
b. Use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage. Measure the
cranking voltage at the battery terminal posts.
c. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts check the battery.
d. If the battery voltage is 9.6 volts or more continue with the test.
e. Connect the negative lead of the DVOM to the battery negative terminal
and the positive lead of the DVOM to the engine block.
5. If the voltage is less than 0.5 volts, attach the positive lead of the DVOM to the
starter B terminal and crank the engine.
6. If the voltage reading is less than 9.0 volts, replace the starter motor.
7. If the starter motor does not crank and there is no sound from the solenoid, test
the starter motor as follows:
a. Turn the headlights and the dome light on.
b. Turn the ignition key to the START position.
c. If the lights stay bright, turn the radio, heater and turn signals on.
d. If the accessories you have turned on do not operate properly, check the
bulkhead connector fusible link and the ignition switch connections.
e. If the accessories operate properly, continue with the test.
f. Make sure the ignition key is still in the START position.
g. If your vehicle is equipped with a automatic transmission, using a Digital
Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage, connect the negative lead
of the DVOM to the battery negative terminal and the positive lead of the
DVOM to the starter S terminal.
h. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, replace the starter motor.
i. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or less, attach the positive lead of the DVOM to
the ignition switch solenoid terminal.
j. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, repair the purple wire from the
ignition switch to the starter.
k. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts, replace the ignition switch.
l. If your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, using a Digital
Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to read voltage, connect the negative lead
of the DVOM to a good known ground and the positive lead of the
DVOM to the neutral/start switch. Turn the ignition key to the START
position and depress the clutch.
m. If there is more than 9.6 volts present at one terminal, test the switch
connector and adjustment. If the adjustment and connector are
functioning properly, replace the switch.
n. If there is less than 9.6 volts present at both terminals, make sure the
ignition key is still in the START position.
o. Test the voltage at the ignition switch solenoid terminal.
p. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or more, repair the yellow feed wire from the
ignition switch.
q. If the voltage is less than 9.6 volts, replace the ignition switch.
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
The following is a general procedure for all trucks covered in this information, and may
vary slightly depending on model and series.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect and tag all wires at the solenoid terminal.
Reinstall all nuts as soon as they are removed, since the thread sizes are different.
4. Remove the front bracket from the starter and the mounting bolts. On engines
with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the
bracket from the starter.
Fig. 1: Starter mounting location-4.8L engines
Fig. 2: Starter mounting location-4.3L and 5.0L

engines
Fig. 3: Starter mounts-5.7L and 7.4L engines

5. Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter, front end first, then
remove the unit from the truck.
To install:
6. Position the starter and tighten all bolts as follows:
R/V Series:
Thru-bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

Bracket bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Nut (gas): 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
Nut (diesel): 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
C/K Series:
Thru-bolts: 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)

Bracket bolt (diesel): 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm)
Nut (diesel): 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm)
7. Reconnect all wires.
Fig. 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable
Fig. 5: Remove the starter retaining bolts
Fig. 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle
SOLENOID REPLACEMENT
2. Remove the screw and washer from the field strap terminal.
3. Remove the two solenoid-to-housing retaining screws and the motor terminal
bolt.
4. Remove the solenoid by twisting the unit 90 degrees.
5. To replace the solenoid, reverse the above procedure. Make sure the return
spring is on the plunger, and rotate the solenoid unit into place on the starter.
AIR POLLUTION
GM Full-Size Trucks 1988-1998 Repair Information
The earth's atmosphere, at or near sea level, consists approximately of 78 percent
nitrogen, 21 percent oxygen and 1 percent other gases. If it were possible to remain in
this state, 100 percent clean air would result. However, many varied sources allow other
gases and particulates to mix with the clean air, causing our atmosphere to become
unclean or polluted.
Some of these pollutants are visible while others are invisible, with each having the
capability of causing distress to the eyes, ears, throat, skin and respiratory system.
Should these pollutants become concentrated in a specific area and under certain
conditions, death could result due to the displacement or chemical change of the oxygen
content in the air. These pollutants can also cause great damage to the environment and
to the many man made objects that are exposed to the elements.
To better understand the causes of air pollution, the pollutants can be categorized into 3
separate types, natural, industrial and automotive.
Automotive Pollutants
The third major source of air pollution is automotive emissions. The emissions from the
internal combustion engines were not an appreciable problem years ago because of the
small number of registered vehicles and the nation's small highway system. However,
during the early 1950's, the trend of the American people was to move from the cities to
the surrounding suburbs. This caused an immediate problem in transportation because
the majority of suburbs were not afforded mass transit conveniences. This lack of
transportation created an attractive market for the automobile manufacturers, which
resulted in a dramatic increase in the number of vehicles produced and sold, along with
a marked increase in highway construction between cities and the suburbs. Multivehicle families emerged with a growing emphasis placed on an individual vehicle per
family member. As the increase in vehicle ownership and usage occurred, so did
pollutant levels in and around the cities, as suburbanites drove daily to their businesses
and employment, returning at the end of the day to their homes in the suburbs.
It was noted that a smoke and fog type haze was being formed and at times, remained in
suspension over the cities, taking time to dissipate. At first this "smog," derived from
the words "smoke" and "fog," was thought to result from industrial pollution but it was
determined that automobile emissions shared the blame. It was discovered that when
normal automobile emissions were exposed to sunlight for a period of time, complex
chemical reactions would take place.
It is now known that smog is a photo chemical layer which develops when certain
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and unburned hydrocarbons (HC) from automobile emissions
are exposed to sunlight. Pollution was more severe when smog would become stagnant
over an area in which a warm layer of air settled over the top of the cooler air mass,
trapping and holding the cooler mass at ground level. The trapped cooler air would keep
the emissions from being dispersed and diluted through normal air flows. This type of
air stagnation was given the name "Temperature Inversion."
TEMPERATURE INVERSION
In normal weather situations, surface air is warmed by heat radiating from the earth's
surface and the sun's rays. This causes it to rise upward, into the atmosphere. Upon
rising it will cool through a convection type heat exchange with the cooler upper air. As
warm air rises, the surface pollutants are carried upward and dissipated into the
atmosphere.
When a temperature inversion occurs, we find the higher air is no longer cooler, but is
warmer than the surface air, causing the cooler surface air to become trapped. This
warm air blanket can extend from above ground level to a few hundred or even a few
thousand feet into the air. As the surface air is trapped, so are the pollutants, causing a
severe smog condition. Should this stagnant air mass extend to a few thousand feet
high, enough air movement with the inversion takes place to allow the smog layer to
rise above ground level but the pollutants still cannot dissipate. This inversion can
remain for days over an area, with the smog level only rising or lowering from ground
level to a few hundred feet high. Meanwhile, the pollutant levels increase, causing eye
irritation, respiratory problems, reduced visibility, plant damage and in some cases, even
disease.
This inversion phenomenon was first noted in the Los Angeles, California area. The city
lies in terrain resembling a basin and with certain weather conditions, a cold air mass is
held in the basin while a warmer air mass covers it like a lid.
Because this type of condition was first documented as prevalent in the Los Angeles
area, this type of trapped pollution was named Los Angeles Smog, although it occurs in
other areas where a large concentration of automobiles are used and the air remains
stagnant for any length of time.
HEAT TRANSFER
Consider the internal combustion engine as a machine in which raw materials must be
placed so a finished product comes out. As in any machine operation, a certain amount
of wasted material is formed. When we relate this to the internal combustion engine, we
find that through the input of air and fuel, we obtain power during the combustion
process to drive the vehicle. The by-product or waste of this power is, in part, heat and
exhaust gases with which we must dispose.
The heat from the combustion process can rise to over 4000F (2204C). The
dissipation of this heat is controlled by a ram air effect, the use of cooling fans to cause
air flow and a liquid coolant solution surrounding the combustion area to transfer the
heat of combustion through the cylinder walls and into the coolant. The coolant is then
directed to a thin-finned, multi-tubed radiator, from which the excess heat is transferred
to the atmosphere by 1 of the 3 heat transfer methods, conduction, convection or
radiation.
The cooling of the combustion area is an important part in the control of exhaust
emissions. To understand the behavior of the combustion and transfer of its heat,
consider the air/fuel charge. It is ignited and the flame front burns progressively across
the combustion chamber until the burning charge reaches the cylinder walls. Some of
the fuel in contact with the walls is not hot enough to burn, thereby snuffing out or
quenching the combustion process. This leaves unburned fuel in the combustion
chamber. This unburned fuel is then forced out of the cylinder and into the exhaust
system, along with the exhaust gases.
Many attempts have been made to minimize the amount of unburned fuel in the
combustion chambers due to quenching, by increasing the coolant
temperature and lessening the contact area of the coolant around the
combustion area. However, design limitations within the combustion
chambers prevent the complete burning of the air/fuel charge, so a certain
amount of the unburned fuel is still expelled into the exhaust system,
regardless of modifications to the engine.
Industrial Pollutants
Industrial pollution is caused primarily by industrial processes, the burning of coal, oil
and natural gas, which in turn produce smoke and fumes. Because the burning fuels
contain large amounts of sulfur, the principal ingredients of smoke and fumes are sulfur
dioxide and particulate matter. This type of pollutant occurs most severely during still,
damp and cool weather, such as at night. Even in its less severe form, this pollutant is
not confined to just cities. Because of air movements, the pollutants move for miles
over the surrounding countryside, leaving in its path a barren and unhealthy
environment for all living things.
Working with Federal, State and Local mandated regulations and by carefully
monitoring emissions, big business has greatly reduced the amount of pollutant
introduced from its industrial sources, striving to obtain an acceptable level. Because of
the mandated industrial emission clean up, many land areas and streams in and around
the cities that were formerly barren of vegetation and life, have now begun to move
back in the direction of nature's intended balance.
Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)

OPERATION
See Figure 1
The coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature). Low coolant temperatures produce high resistance (100,000 ohms at
-40F/-40C) while low temperatures causes low resistance (70 ohms at 266F/130C).
The sensor is mounted in the coolant stream and the ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the
sensor through a resistor in the ECM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high
when the engine is cold, and low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the
ECM knows the engine coolant temperature.
Fig. 1: Coolant temperature sensor location

TESTING
1. Remove the sensor from the vehicle.
2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
4. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the
temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs.
resistance illustration.
5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as
necessary.
6. If the sensor does not meet specification, it must be replaced.
Fig. 2: Submerge the end of the coolant

temperature sensor in cold or hot water and check the resistance
Fig. 3: Coolant temperature sensor wiring

diagram
Fig. 4: Coolant temperature sensor temperature

vs. resistance values
2. Drain the cooling system below the level of the sensor and disengage the sensor
electrical connection.
3. Remove the coolant sensor.
To install:
4. Install the sensor and engage the electrical connector.
5. Refill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.
Electronic Control Module (ECM)

When the term Electronic Control Module (ECM) is used here it refers to the engine
control computer regardless that it may be a Vehicle Control Module (VCM),
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Electronic Control Module (ECM).
The ECM is a reliable solid state computer, protected in a metal box. It is used to
monitor and control all the functions of the Computer Command Control (CCC) system
and is usually located in the engine compartment, though it can also be located in one of
several places in the passenger compartment (refer to the component location diagrams
in this section). The ECM can perform several on-vehicle functions at the same time
and has the ability to diagnose itself as well as other CCC system circuits.
2. Disengage the connectors from the ECM.
3. Remove the ECM mounting hardware.
4. Remove the ECM from the passenger compartment.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Knock Sensor
OPERATION
Located in the engine block, the Knock Sensor (KS) retards ignition timing during a
spark knock condition to allow the ECM to maintain maximum timing advance under
most conditions.
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Connect a timing light to the vehicle and start the engine.
2. Check that the timing is correct before testing knock sensor operation.
3. If timing is correct, tap on the front of the engine block with a metal object while
observing the timing to see if the timing retards.
4. If the timing does not retard, the knock sensor may be defective.
Fig. 1: Knock sensor wiring diagram

2. Disengage the wiring harness connector from the knock sensor.
3. Remove the knock sensor from the engine block.
To install:
4. Apply a water base caulk to the knock sensor threads and install the sensor in the
engine block.
WARNING
Do not use silicon tape to coat the knock sensor threads, as this will insulate the sensor
from the engine block.
5. Engage the wiring harness connector.
6. Connect the negative battery cable
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor

OPERATION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in intake manifold
pressure, which result from the engine load and speed changes, and converts this to a
voltage output.
A closed throttle on engine coastdown will produce a low MAP output, while a wideopen throttle will produce a high output. This high output is produced because the
pressure inside the manifold is the same as outside the manifold, so 100 percent of the
outside air pressure is measured.
The MAP sensor reading is the opposite of what you would measure on a vacuum
gauge. When manifold pressure is high, vacuum is low. The MAP sensor is also used to
measure barometric pressure under certain conditions, which allows the ECM to
automatically adjust for different altitudes.
The ECM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure
changes, the electrical resistance of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor
output voltage, the ECM knows the manifold pressure. A higher pressure, low vacuum
(high voltage) requires more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher vacuum (low voltage)
requires less fuel.
The ECM uses the MAP sensor to control fuel delivery and ignition timing.
Fig. 1: MAP sensor-4.3L engines
Fig. 2: MAP sensor-5.0L and 5.7L engines
Fig. 3: MAP sensor-7.4L engines

TESTING
See Figure 4
1. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at MAP sensor terminals A and C.
2. With the key ON and engine off, the voltmeter reading should be approximately
5.0 volts.
3. If the voltage is not as specified, either the wiring to the MAP sensor or the
ECM may be faulty. Correct any wiring or ECM faults before continuing test.
4. Backprobe with a high impotence voltmeter at MAP sensor terminals B and A.
5. Verify that the sensor voltage is approximately 0.5 volts with the engine not
running.
6. Start the vehicle.
7. Verify that the sensor voltage is greater than 1.5 volts at idle.
8. Verify that the sensor voltage increases to approximately 4.5. volts at Wide Open
Throttle (WOT).
9. If the sensor voltage is as specified, the sensor is functioning properly.
10. If the sensor voltage is not as specified, check the sensor and the sensor vacuum
source for a leak or a restriction. If no leaks or restrictions are found, the sensor
may be defective and should be replaced.
Fig. 4: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

Sensor wiring diagram
2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum harness assembly.
3. Disengage the electrical connector.
4. Release the locktabs, unfasten the bolts and remove the sensor.
6. Oxygen Sensor
OPERATION
The oxygen sensor is a spark plug shaped device that is screwed into the exhaust
manifold on V6 and V8 engines, and into the exhaust pipe on the 4.8L. It monitors the
oxygen content of the exhaust gases and sends a voltage signal to the ECM. The ECM
monitors this voltage and, depending on the value of the received signal, issues a
command to the mixture control solenoid on the carburetor to adjust for rich or lean
conditions.
The proper operation of the oxygen sensor depends upon four basic conditions:
1. Good electrical connections. Since the sensor generates low currents, good clean
electrical connections at the sensor are a must.
2. Outside air supply. Air must circulate to the internal portion of the sensor. When
servicing the sensor, do not restrict the air passages.
3. Proper operating temperatures. The ECM will not recognize the sensor's signals
until the sensor reaches approximately 600F (316C).
4. Non-leaded fuel. The use of leaded gasoline will damage the sensor very
quickly.
TESTING
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Inspect the oxygen sensor tip for

abnormal deposits
1. Perform a visual inspection on the sensor as follows:
Remove the sensor from the exhaust. If the sensor tip has a black/sooty deposit, this
may indicate a rich fuel mixture. If the sensor tip has a white gritty deposit, this may
indicate an internal anti-freeze leak. If the sensor tip has a brown deposit, this could
indicate oil consumption.
All these contaminates can destroy the sensor, if the problem is not repaired the new
sensor will also be damaged.
2. Reinstall the sensor.
3. Start the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature, then run the
engine above 1200 rpm for two minutes.
4. Backprobe with a high impedance averaging voltmeter (set to the DC voltage
scale) between the oxygen sensor (02S) and battery ground.
5. Verify that the 02S voltage fluctuates rapidly between 0.40-0.60 volts.
6. If the 02S voltage is stabilized at the middle of the specified range
(approximately 0.45-0.55 volts) or if the 02S voltage fluctuates very slowly
between the specified range (02S signal crosses 0.5 volts less than 5 times in ten
seconds), the 02S may be faulty.
7. If the 02S voltage stabilizes at either end of the specified range, the ECM is
probably not able to compensate for a mechanical problem such as a vacuum
leak or a high float level. These types of mechanical problems will cause the 02S
to sense a constant lean or constant rich mixture. The mechanical problem will
first have to be repaired and then the 02S test repeated.
8. Pull a vacuum hose located after the throttle plate. Voltage should drop to
approximately 0.12 volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests the ability of
the 02S to detect a lean mixture condition. Reattach the vacuum hose.
9. Richen the mixture using a propane enrichment tool. Voltage should rise to
approximately 0.90 volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests the ability of
the 02S to detect a rich mixture condition.
10. If the 02S voltage is above or below the specified range, the 02S and/or the O2S
wiring may be faulty. Check the wiring for any breaks, repair as necessary and
repeat the test.
Fig. 2: Oxygen sensor (02S) wiring diagram

WARNING
The sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. This pigtail should not be
removed from the sensor. Damage or removal of the pigtail or connector could affect
the proper operation of the sensor. Keep the electrical connector and louvered end of the
sensor clean and free of grease. NEVER use cleaning solvents of any type on the
sensor!
The oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when the temperature of the engine is
below 120F (49C). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust manifold
or exhaust pipe.
Fig. 3: Oxygen sensor-4.3L engines
Fig. 4: Oxygen sensor-5.0L and 5.7L engines
Fig. 5: Oxygen sensor-7.4L engines

1. Unplug the electrical connector and any attaching hardware.
2. Remove the sensor using an appropriate sized wrench or special socket.
To install:
3. Coat the threads of the sensor with a GM anti-seize compound, part number
5613695, or its equivalent, before installation. New sensors are usually
precoated with this compound.
The GM antiseize compound is NOT a conventional anti-seize paste. The use of a
regular paste may electrically insulate the sensor, rendering it useless. The threads
MUST be coated with the proper electrically conductive anti-seize compound.
4. Install the sensor and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Use care in making sure the
silicone boot is in the correct position to avoid melting it during operation.
5. Engage the electrical connector and attaching hardware if used.
6. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

OPERATION
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located inside the carburetor. It is a potentiometer
with one wire connected to 5 volts from the ECM and the other to ground. A third wire
is connected to the ECM to measure the voltage from the TPS.
As the accelerator pedal is moved, the output of the TPS also changes. At a closed
throttle position, the output of the TPS is low (approximately 0.5 volts). As the throttle
valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide-open throttle, the output voltage
should be approximately 4.5 volts.
By monitoring the output voltage from the TPS, the ECM can determine fuel delivery
based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at TPS terminals A and B.
5.0 volts.
3. If the voltage is not as specified, either the wiring to the TPS or the ECM may be
faulty. Correct any wiring or ECM faults before continuing test.
4. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at terminals C and B.
5. With the key ON and engine off and the throttle closed, the TPS voltage should
be approximately 0.5-1.2 volts.
6. Verify that the TPS voltage increases or decreases smoothly as the throttle is
opened or closed. Make sure to open and close the throttle very slowly in order
to detect any abnormalities in the TPS voltage reading.
7. If the sensor voltage is not as specified, replace the sensor.
Fig. 1: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) sensor

wiring diagram
The throttle position sensor is located in the carburetor. Please Refer to for the
carburetor disassembly procedures to remove the TPS.
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

OPERATION
The vehicle speed sensor is sometimes located behind the speedometer or more
commonly on the transmission. It sends a pulsing voltage signal to the ECM, which the
ECM converts to vehicle speed. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the Torque
Converter Clutch (TCC) system, shift light and cruise control.
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Backprobe the VSS terminals with a high impedance voltmeter (set at the AC
voltage scale).
2. Safely raise and support the entire vehicle using jackstands. Make absolutely
sure the vehicle is secure.
3. Start the vehicle and place it in gear.
4. Verify that the VSS voltage increases as the speed increases.
5. If the VSS voltage is not as specified the VSS may be faulty.
Fig. 1: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wiring

diagram
Speedometer Mounted
2. Remove the instrument cluster.
3. Remove the screws securing the sensor assembly.
Transmission Mounted
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Unplug the electrical connector.
3. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the sensor.
4. Remove the sensor from the transmission.
6. COMPONENT LOCATION DIAGRAMS

See Figures 1 through 34
Fig. 1: Component locations-1988-90
C/K series with 4.3L engines
R/V series with 4.3L engines
C/K series with 5.0L and 5.7L engines
R/V series with 5.0L and 5.7L engines
with 7.4L engines
C/K series with 4.3L engines
C/K series with 5.0L or 5.7L engines
R/V series with 5.7L engines
models with 7.4L engines
Fig. 10: Component locations-1993
models with 4.3L engines and MT

models with 4.3L engines and AT. Less than 8500 lbs. GVW or without Tier 1
emissions

models with 4.3L engines and Tier 1 emissions

models with 5.0L/5.7L engines and MT
models with 5.0L/5.7L engines and AT
models with 7.4L engines and MT
models with 7.4L engines and AT
Fig. 17: Component locations-1994 4.3L
engines and MT
engines and AT
engines and AT (4L80E)
engines and California emissions
5.0L/5.7L engines and MT
5.0L/5.7L engines and AT (4L80E)
engines and MT
engines
5.0L/5.7L engines
engines
7.4L engines
5.0L/5.7L engines
4.3L engines
Fig. 32: Component locations as viewed

from the right hand side-1996-98 6.5L engines

from the left hand side-1996-98 6.5L engines

from the rear-1996-98 6.5L engines
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor Module
OPERATION
The APP sensor module contains three potentiometers (a device for measuring unknown
voltage or potential difference by comparison to a standard voltage). Each of the APP
sensors send a varying voltage to the ECM. By monitoring the output voltage from the
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) module, the ECM can determine fuel delivery based
on the accelerator pedal position (driver demand).
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at APP sensor terminals G and A.
5.0 volts.
3. If the voltage is not as specified, either the wiring to the APP sensor or the ECM
may be faulty. Correct any wiring or ECM faults before continuing test.
4. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at terminals F and A.
5. With the key ON and engine idling, the APP sensor voltage should be
approximately 0.5 volts.
6. Verify that the APP voltage increases or decreases smoothly as the throttle is
opened or closed. Make sure to open and close the throttle very slowly in order
to detect any abnormalities in the APP sensor voltage reading.
7. If the APP sensor voltage is not as specified, replace the APP sensor.
8. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at APP sensor terminals D and B.
5.0 volts.
11. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at terminals C and B.
13. Verify that the APP voltage decreases smoothly as the throttle is opened. Make
sure to open and close the throttle very slowly in order to detect any
abnormalities in the APP sensor voltage reading.
14. If the APP sensor voltage is not as specified, replace the APP sensor.
15. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at APP sensor terminals E and J.
5.0 volts.
18. Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at terminals K and J.

20. Verify that the APP voltage decreases smoothly to about 2.0 volts as the throttle
is opened. Make sure to open and close the throttle very slowly in order to detect
any abnormalities in the APP sensor voltage reading.
21. If the APP sensor voltage is not as specified, replace the APP sensor module.
Fig. 1: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor

wiring diagram
See Figure 2
2. Unplug the APP module electrical connection.
3. Unfasten the module retaining bolts.
4. Remove the module.
To install:
5. Place the module in position and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to
10 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
6. Attach the module electrical connection.
Fig. 2: The APP module (2) is retained to its

mounting surface (1) by three bolts (3)-1996-98 diesel engines shown, others similar
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

OPERATION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is a hall-effect type sensor that monitors
crankshaft position and speed. There are four teeth 90 apart on the front crankshaft
sprocket that induce a pulse in the sensor which is transmitted to the ECM.
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Check the sensor wiring, the wiring harness and the terminals for damage and
repair as necessary.
2. Disconnect the CKP sensor harness. Connect an Digital Volt Ohm Meter
(DVOM) attach the negative lead of the meter to battery ground and the positive
lead to CKP harness terminal C. The voltage should be between 4.8-5.2 volts.
3. If not as specified, repair or replace the fuse and/or wiring.
4. Connect an LED test light between the battery positive terminal and CKP
terminal B.
5. With the ignition ON and the engine off, verify that the test light illuminates.
6. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring.
Fig. 1: Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor wiring

diagram-6.5L diesel engine
7. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the test light.
8. Next, connect suitable jumper wires between the CKP sensor and CKP sensor
harness. Connect a DVOM to the jumper wire corresponding to CKP terminal A
and battery ground.
9. Crank the engine and verify that the voltage is 4 volts or more.
10. If it is not as specified, the CKP sensor may be faulty.
See Figure 2
2. Detach the sensor harness connector at the sensor.
3. Unfasten the retaining bolt, then remove the sensor from the front cover. Inspect
the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage and replace if necessary.
To install:
4. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil, then place on the sensor. Install the
sensor into the front cover.
5. Install the sensor retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
6. Attach the sensor harness connector.
Fig. 2: Location of the CKP sensor mounting6.5L diesel engine

OPERATION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is a hall-effect type sensor that monitors
crankshaft position and speed. There are four teeth 90 apart on the front crankshaft
sprocket that induce a pulse in the sensor which is transmitted to the ECM.
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. Check the sensor wiring, the wiring harness and the terminals for damage and
repair as necessary.
2. Disconnect the CKP sensor harness. Connect an Digital Volt Ohm Meter
(DVOM) attach the negative lead of the meter to battery ground and the positive
lead to CKP harness terminal C. The voltage should be between 4.8-5.2 volts.
4. Connect an LED test light between the battery positive terminal and CKP
terminal B.
6. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring.

diagram-6.5L diesel engine
harness. Connect a DVOM to the jumper wire corresponding to CKP terminal A
and battery ground.
9. Crank the engine and verify that the voltage is 4 volts or more.
See Figure 2
To install:
5. Install the sensor retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Fig. 2: Location of the CKP sensor mounting6.5L diesel engine
Electronic Control Module (ECM)

OPERATION
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is required to maintain the exhaust emissions at
acceptable levels. The module is a small, solid state computer which receives signals
from many sources and sensors. It uses this data to make judgments about operating
conditions and then controls the emission systems to match the current requirements.
3. Remove the ECM mounting hardware.
4. Remove the ECM.
5. Remove the ECM.
To install:
6. Install the ECM and its mounting hardware.
7. Engage the electrical connectors.
9. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

OPERATION
See Figures 1 and 2
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is mounted in the intake manifold and
sends engine temperature information to the ECM. The ECM supplies 5 volts to the
coolant temperature sensor circuit. The sensor is a thermistor which changes internal
resistance as temperature changes. When the sensor is cold (internal resistance high),
the ECM monitors a high signal voltage which it interprets as a cold engine. As the
sensor warms (internal resistance low), the ECM monitors a low signal voltage which it
interprets as warm engine.
Fig. 1: View of the Engine Coolant Temperature

(ECT) sensor
Fig. 2: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)

sensor location
TESTING
See Figures 3 and 4
1. Remove the ECT sensor from the vehicle.
2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs.
resistance illustration.
5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as
necessary.
Fig. 3: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) and Engine

Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor wiring diagram
Fig. 4: ECT sensor temperature vs. resistance

values
2. Drain the cooling system below the level of the sensor and disengage the sensor
electrical connection.
3. Remove the coolant sensor.
To install:
4. Install the sensor and engage the electrical connector.
5. Refill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.
6. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor

OPERATION
See Figures 1 and 2
the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on
the temperature of the air entering the engine. Low temperature produces a high
resistance, while a high temperature causes a low resistance. The ECM supplies a 5 volt
signal to the sensor through a resistor in the ECM and measures the voltage. The voltage
will be high when the incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By measuring
the voltage, the ECM calculates the incoming air temperature.
Fig. 1: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensorexcept 1996-98 diesel engines
Fig. 2: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor1996-98 6.5L diesel engines

TESTING
See Figure 3
1. Remove the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor.
temperature of the ambient air. Refer to the temperature vs. resistance

illustration.
4. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the air as
necessary with a hair dryer or other suitable tool.
Fig. 3: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) and Engine

Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor wiring diagram
1. Unplug the sensor electrical connection.
2. Loosen and remove the sensor from the vehicle.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

OPERATION
The vehicle speed sensor is made up of a coil mounted on the transmission and a tooth
rotor mounted to the output shaft of the transmission. As each tooth nears the coil, the
coil produces an AC voltage pulse. As the vehicle speed increases the number of voltage
pulses per second increases.
TESTING
See Figure 1
1. To test the VSS, backprobe the VSS terminals with a high impedance voltmeter
(set at the AC voltage scale).
2. Safely raise and support the entire vehicle using jackstands. Make absolutely
sure the vehicle is stable.
3. Start the vehicle and place it in gear.
4. Verify that the VSS voltage increases as the drive shaft speed increases.
5. If the VSS voltage is not as specified the VSS may be faulty.
Fig. 1: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and vehicle

speed signal buffer wiring diagram
See Figure 2
2. Disengage the electrical connection.
3. Unfasten the sensor retainers.
4. Remove the sensor and gasket or O-ring.
To install:
5. Install the sensor with a new gasket or O-ring.
6. Fasten the sensor retainers.
7. Engage the electrical connections.
Fig. 2: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) location
Crankcase Ventilation
OPERATION
See Figure 1
A Crankcase Depression Regulator Valve (CDRV) is used to regulate (meter) the flow
of crankcase gases back into the engine to be burned. The CDRV is designed to limit
vacuum in the crankcase as the gases are drawn from the valve covers through the
CDRV and into the intake manifold (air crossover).
Fig. 1: Crankcase vapor flow

Fresh air enters the engine through the combination filter, check valve and oil fill cap.
The fresh air mixes with blow-by gases and enters both valve covers. The gases pass
through a filter installed on the valve covers and are drawn into connecting tubing.
Intake manifold vacuum acts against a spring loaded diaphragm to control the flow of
crankcase gases. Higher intake vacuum levels pull the diaphragm closer to the top of the
outlet tube. This reduces the amount of gases being drawn from the crankcase and
decreases the vacuum level in the crankcase. As the intake vacuum decreases, the spring
pushes the diaphragm away from the top of the outlet tube allowing more gases to flow
to the intake manifold.
TESTING
Do not attempt to test the valve. If you suspect problems with the system, clean the filter
and vent pipes with solvent. Be sure to dry the components before installing them.
See Figures 2 and 3
The components of this system can be removed by disconnecting the hoses and pulling
the component from its mounting grommet. Be careful not to damage the grommet;
replace if necessary.
Fig. 2: CDR valve-6.2L and 6.5L non-turbo

engines
Fig. 3: CDR valve-6.5L turbo engines
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)

OPERATION
To lower the formation of nitrogen oxides (NOx) in the exhaust, it is necessary to

reduce combustion temperatures. This is done in the diesel, as in the gasoline engine, by
introducing exhaust gases into the cylinders through the EGR valve.
The Exhaust Pressure Regulator (EPR) valve and solenoid operate in conjunction with
the EGR valve. The EPR valve's job is to increase exhaust backpressure in order to
increase EGR flow. The EPR valve is usually open, and the solenoid is normally closed.
When energized by the B+ wire from the Throttle Position Switch (TPS), the solenoid
opens, allowing vacuum to the EPR valve, closing it. This occurs at idle. As the throttle
is opened, at a calibrated throttle angle, the TPS de-energizes the EPR solenoid, cutting
off vacuum to the EPR valve, closing the valve. Two other solenoids are used for EGR
valve control. The EGR solenoid allows vacuum to reach the EGR vent solenoid under
certain conditions. The vent solenoid then controls the EGR valve to regulate the flow
of gasses into the intake manifold.
TESTING
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
See Figure 1
Apply vacuum to the EGR valve with a hand vacuum pump. The valve should be fully
open at 11 in. Hg (75 kPa) and closed below 6 in. Hg (41 kPa).
Fig. 1: Some EGR valves may be tested using a

vacuum pump by watching for diaphragm movement
EPR Valve
1. Apply 11 in. Hg (75 kPa) vacuum to the EPR valve tube with a hand vacuum
pump. Observe the valve actuator lever for movement.
2. If it does not move, spray a penetrating lubricant on the lever and try to free the
valve.
CAUTION
Make sure the valve is not hot.
3. If the lubricant will not free the valve, it must be replaced.
EGR Valve
Non-turbo models
See Figure 2
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and air intake tube.

2. Unplug the vacuum hose from the valve.
3. Remove the studs securing the valve to the intake manifold.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the studs until snug.
Fig. 2: EGR valve mounting-non-turbo models

turbo models
See Figure 3
1. Remove the upper intake manifold cover.
2. Unplug the vacuum hose from the valve.
3. Remove the bolts securing the valve to the intake manifold.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Fig. 3: Remove the upper intake manifold cover

to access the EGR valve-turbo models
EPR Valve
See Figure 4
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Unplug the vacuum hose from the actuator.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the valve.
4. Remove the studs securing the valve to the exhaust manifold.
Fig. 4: EPR valve

EGR/EPR Solenoid Assembly
See Figures 5 and 6
2. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses from the assembly.
3. Unplug the solenoid electrical connectors.
4. Remove the retainers securing the solenoid assembly.
Fig. 5: EGR/EPR solenoid assembly-non-turbo

models
Fig. 6: Typical EGR solenoid assembly-turbo

models
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor

OPERATION
See Figure 1
The ECM uses the camshaft signal to determine the position of the No. 1 cylinder piston
during its power stroke. The signal is used by the ECM to calculate fuel injection mode
of operation.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift
to a calculated fuel injected mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine
will continue to run.
Fig. 1: Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor location

TESTING
See Figure 2
Fig. 2: Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor wiring

schematic
1. Disconnect the CMP sensor wiring harness and connect an LED test light
between CMP harness terminal C and battery ground.
4. Carefully connect the test light between CMP harness terminal A and C and
verify that the test light illuminates.
5. If not as specified, repair the CMP harness ground circuit (terminal A).
7. Next, connect suitable jumper wires between the CMP sensor and CMP sensor
harness. Connect a DC volt meter to the jumper wire corresponding to CMP
terminal B and battery ground.
8. Start the engine and verify that the voltage signal is 5-7 volts.
9. If it is not as specified, the CMP sensor may be faulty.
3. Unfasten the retaining bolt, then remove the sensor from the camshaft housing.
Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage and replace if necessary.
To install:
sensor into the camshaft housing.
5. Install the CMP sensor retaining bolt, then tighten to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
8. Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

OPERATION
See Figure 1
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor provides a signal through the ignition module
which the ECM uses as a reference to calculate rpm and crankshaft position.
Fig. 1: Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor

TESTING
See Figure 2
1. Disconnect the CKP sensor harness. Connect an LED test light between battery
ground and CKP harness terminal A.
4. Carefully connect the test light between CKP harness terminal A and B. Verify
that the test light illuminates.

diagram
5. If not as specified, repair the CKP harness ground circuit (terminal B).
harness. Connect a duty cycle meter to the jumper wire corresponding to CKP
terminal C and battery ground.
8. Crank the engine and verify that the duty cycle signal is between 40-60%.
10. Next, connect a AC volt meter to the jumper wire corresponding to CKP
terminal C and battery ground.
11. Crank the engine and verify that the AC voltage signal is at least 10.0 volts.
12. If not as specified the CKP sensor may be faulty.
To install:
5. Install the sensor and tighten the retaining bolt.
8. Electronic Control Module (ECM)

OPERATION
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is required to maintain the exhaust emissions at
acceptable levels. The module is a small, solid state computer which receives signals
from many sources and sensors; it uses these data to make judgments about operating
conditions and then control output signals to the fuel and emission systems to match the
current requirements.
Engines coupled to electronically controlled transmissions employ a Powertrain Control

Module (PCM) or Vehicle Control Module (VCM) to oversee both engine and
transmission operation. The integrated functions of engine and transmission control
allow accurate gear selection and improved fuel economy.
In the event of an ECM failure, the system will default to a pre-programmed set of
values. These are compromise values which allow the engine to operate, although at a
reduced efficiency. This is variously known as the default, limp-in or back-up mode.
Driveability is almost always affected when the ECM enters this mode.
3. Remove the spring retainer off and over the rail of the ECM.
4. Slide the ECM out of the bracket at an angle.
5. Remove the ECM.
To install:
6. Install the ECM into the bracket.
7. Install the spring retainer and engage the electrical connectors.
9. FUEL INJECTED ELECTRONIC ENGINE

CONTROLS
10. See Figures 1 and 2
11.
Fig. 1:
Fig. 2:
12.
13.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
OPERATION
See Figure 1
The engine idle speed is controlled by the ECM through the Idle Air Control (IAC)
valve mounted on the throttle body. The ECM sends voltage pulses to the IAC motor
causing the IAC motor shaft and pintle to move in or out a given distance (number of
steps) for each pulse, (called counts).
This movement controls air flow around the throttle plate, which in turn, controls engine
idle speed, either cold or hot. IAC valve pintle position counts can be seen using a scan
tool. Zero counts corresponds to a fully closed passage, while 140 or more counts
(depending on the application) corresponds to full flow.
Fig. 1: The IAC valve can be on the throttle

body, usually next to the throttle position sensor
TESTING
1. Disengage the IAC electrical connector.
2. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between IAC terminals A and B.
Next measure the resistance between terminals C and D.
3. Verify that the resistance between both sets of IAC terminals is 20-80 ohms. If
the resistance is not as specified, the IAC may be faulty.
4. Measure the resistance between IAC terminals B and C. Next measure the
resistance between terminals A and D.
5. Verify that the resistance between both sets of IAC terminals is infinite. If the
resistance is not infinite, the IAC may be faulty.
6. Also, with a small mirror, inspect IAC air inlet passage and pintle for debris.
Clean as necessary, as this can cause IAC malfunction.
Fig. 2: Using an ohmmeter, backprobe terminals

of the TPS sensor to check for proper resistances
Fig. 3: The TP sensor and IAC sensor are usually

located at the side of the throttle body
Fig. 4: Idle Air Control (IAC) valve wiring and

terminal identification
2. Disengage the electrical connection.
3. Remove the IAC valve. On thread-mounted units, use 11/4in. (32mm) wrench
and on flange-mounted units, remove the screw assemblies.
4. Remove the IAC valve gasket or O-ring and discard it.
To install:
5. Clean the old gasket material from the surface of the throttle body assembly on
the thread mounted valve. On the flange-mounted valve clean the surface to
ensure proper O-ring sealing
6. Install the valve with a new gasket or O-ring. Tighten the thread mounted
assembly 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) and tighten the flange mounted attaching screws to
28 inch. lbs. (3 Nm).
7. Engage the electrical connector to the IAC valve.
9. Brake Hoses And Lines

Metal lines and rubber brake hoses should be checked frequently for leaks and external
damage. Metal lines are particularly prone to crushing and kinking under the vehicle.
Any such deformation can restrict the proper flow of fluid and therefore impair braking
at the wheels. Rubber hoses should be checked for cracking or scraping; such damage
can create a weak spot in the hose and it could fail under pressure.
Any time the lines are removed or disconnected, extreme cleanliness must be observed.
Clean all joints and connections before disassembly (use a stiff bristle brush and clean
brake fluid); be sure to plug the lines and ports as soon as they are opened. New lines
and hoses should be flushed clean with brake fluid before installation to remove any
contamination.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Remove any wheel and tire assemblies necessary for access to the particular line
you are removing.
4. Thoroughly clean the surrounding area at the joints to be disconnected.
Fig. 1: Use a brush to clean the fittings of any

debris
5. Place a suitable catch pan under the joint to be disconnected.
6. Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting), disconnect
the hose or line to be replaced.
Fig. 2: Use two wrenches to loosen the fitting. If

available, use flare nut type wrenches
7. Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary.
Always use a back-up wrench to avoid damaging the fitting.
8. Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line
from the vehicle.
If the brake system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines, tape or
plug each remaining clip and port to keep contaminants out and fluid in.
Fig. 3: Any gaskets/crush washers should be

replaced with new ones during installation
Fig. 4: Tape or plug the line to prevent

contamination
To install:
9. Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master
cylinder. Connect the other end, then confirm that both fittings are correctly
threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure. Make sure the new line will
not rub against any other part. Brake lines must be at least 1/2 in. (13mm) from
the steering column and other moving parts. Any protective shielding or
insulators must be reinstalled in the original location.
WARNING
Make sure the hose is NOT kinked or touching any part of the frame or suspension after
installation. These conditions may cause the hose to fail prematurely.
10. Using two wrenches as before, tighten each fitting. Observe the following
torques:
Brake hose-to-caliper bolt: 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
Front brake hose-to-frame nut: 58 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Front brake hose bracket bolt: 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Rear brake hose-to-rear axle junction block: 12 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
All brake pipe nuts: 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
11. Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines.

12. If removed, install the wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the
vehicle to the ground.
13. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid, meeting
DOT 3 specifications. Properly bleed the brake system.

15.
Basic Operating Principles
Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes of all modern automobiles. The system
transports the power required to force the frictional surfaces of the braking system
together from the pedal to the individual brake units at each wheel. A hydraulic system
is used for two reasons.
First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all parts of an automobile by small pipes and
flexible hoses without taking up a significant amount of room or posing routing
problems.
Second, a great mechanical advantage can be given to the brake pedal end of the
system, and the foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be reduced by making
the surface area of the master cylinder pistons smaller than that of any of the pistons in
the wheel cylinders or calipers.
The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir along with a double cylinder and piston
assembly. Double type master cylinders are designed to separate the front and rear
braking systems hydraulically in case of a leak. The master cylinder coverts mechanical
motion from the pedal into hydraulic pressure within the lines. This pressure is
translated back into mechanical motion at the wheels by either the wheel cylinder (drum
brakes) or the caliper (disc brakes).
Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the vehicle's frame near each of the
vehicle's wheels. The fluid is then carried to the calipers and wheel cylinders by flexible
tubes in order to allow for suspension and steering movements.
In drum brake systems, each wheel cylinder contains two pistons, one at either end,
which push outward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe into contact with the
drum.
In disc brake systems, the cylinders are part of the calipers. At least one cylinder in each
caliper is used to force the brake pads against the disc.
All pistons employ some type of seal, usually made of rubber, to minimize fluid
leakage. A rubber dust boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against dust and dirt. The
boot fits around the outer end of the piston on disc brake calipers, and around the brake
actuating rod on wheel cylinders.
The hydraulic system operates as follows: When at rest, the entire system, from the
piston(s) in the master cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or calipers, is full of
brake fluid. Upon application of the brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master
cylinder piston(s) is forced through the lines to the wheel cylinders. Here, it forces the
pistons outward, in the case of drum brakes, and inward toward the disc, in the case of
disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is opposed by return springs mounted outside the
cylinders in drum brakes, and by spring seals, in disc brakes.
Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located inside the master cylinder immediately
returns the master cylinder pistons to the normal position. The pistons contain check
valves and the master cylinder has compensating ports drilled in it. These are uncovered
as the pistons reach their normal position. The piston check valves allow fluid to flow
toward the wheel cylinders or calipers as the pistons withdraw. Then, as the return
springs force the brake pads or shoes into the released position, the excess fluid
reservoir through the compensating ports. It is during the time the pedal is in the
released position that any fluid that has leaked out of the system will be replaced
through the compensating ports.
Dual circuit master cylinders employ two pistons, located one behind the other, in the
same cylinder. The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical linkage from the
brake pedal through the power booster. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid
trapped between the two pistons. If a leak develops in front of the secondary piston, it
moves forward until it bottoms against the front of the master cylinder, and the fluid
trapped between the pistons will operate the rear brakes. If the rear brakes develop a
leak, the primary piston will move forward until direct contact with the secondary
piston takes place, and it will force the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes. In
either case, the brake pedal moves farther when the brakes are applied, and less braking
power is available.
All dual circuit systems use a switch to warn the driver when only half of the brake
system is operational. This switch is usually located in a valve body which is mounted
on the firewall or the frame below the master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives
pressure from both circuits, each circuit's pressure being applied to one end of the
piston. When the pressures are in balance, the piston remains stationary. When one
circuit has a leak, however, the greater pressure in that circuit during application of the
brakes will push the piston to one side, closing the switch and activating the brake
warning light.
In disc brake systems, this valve body also contains a metering valve and, in some
cases, a proportioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure from traveling to the
disc brakes on the front wheels until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have contacted
the drums, ensuring that the front brakes will never be used alone. The proportioning
valve controls the pressure to the rear brakes to lessen the chance of rear wheel lock-up
during very hard braking.
Warning lights may be tested by depressing the brake pedal and holding it while
opening one of the wheel cylinder bleeder screws. If this does not cause the light to go
on, substitute a new lamp, make continuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as
necessary.
The hydraulic system may be checked for leaks by applying pressure to the pedal
gradually and steadily. If the pedal sinks very slowly to the floor, the system has a leak.
This is not to be confused with a springy or spongy feel due to the compression of air
within the lines. If the system leaks, there will be a gradual change in the position of the
pedal with a constant pressure.
Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel cylinders. If no external leaks are apparent,
the problem is inside the master cylinder.
DISC BRAKES
Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that press outward against a circular drum,
disc brake systems utilize a disc (rotor) with brake pads positioned on either side of it.
An easily-seen analogy is the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads squeeze
onto the rim of the bike wheel, slowing its motion. Automobile disc brakes use the
identical principle but apply the braking effort to a separate disc instead of the wheel.
The disc (rotor) is a casting, usually equipped with cooling fins between the two braking
surfaces. This enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces making them less
sensitive to heat buildup and more resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically
affect braking action since contaminants are thrown off by the centrifugal action of the
rotor or scraped off the by the pads. Also, the equal clamping action of the two brake
pads tends to ensure uniform, straight line stops. Disc brakes are inherently selfadjusting. There are three general types of disc brake:
1. A fixed caliper.
2. A floating caliper.
3. A sliding caliper.
The fixed caliper design uses two pistons mounted on either side of the rotor (in each
side of the caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does not move.
The sliding and floating designs are quite similar. In fact, these two types are often
lumped together. In both designs, the pad on the inside of the rotor is moved into
contact with the rotor by hydraulic force. The caliper, which is not held in a fixed
position, moves slightly, bringing the outside pad into contact with the rotor. There are
various methods of attaching floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom or top, and
some slide on mounting bolts. In any event, the end result is the same.
DRUM BRAKES
Drum Brakes employ two brake shoes mounted on a stationary backing plate. These
shoes are positioned inside a circular drum which rotates with the wheel assembly. The
shoes are held in place by springs. This allows them to slide toward the drums (when
they are applied) while keeping the linings and drums in alignment. The shoes are
actuated by a wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the backing plate. When the
brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces the wheel cylinder's actuating links
outward. Since these links bear directly against the top of the brake shoes, the tops of
the shoes are then forced against the inner side of the drum. This action forces the
bottoms of the two shoes to contact the brake drum by rotating the entire assembly
slightly (known as servo action). When pressure within the wheel cylinder is relaxed,
return springs pull the shoes back away from the drum.
Most modern drum brakes are designed to self-adjust themselves during application
when the vehicle is moving in reverse. This motion causes both shoes to rotate very
slightly with the drum, rocking an adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the
adjusting screw. Some drum brake systems are designed to self-adjust during
application whenever the brakes are applied. This on-board adjustment system reduces
the need for maintenance adjustments and keeps both the brake function and pedal feel
satisfactory.
POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the
braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the
engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located
on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing
both the effort and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a
vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm
housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric
pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons
to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to
both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the diaphragm and master cylinder
pistons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master
cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance.
The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the
pedal feels harder than usual.
Vacuum Leak Test
1. Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one
minute.
2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
3. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by depressing the brake pedal and
releasing it several times. If vacuum is present in the system, light application
will produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, air is leaking into
the system.
System Operation Test
1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal until the supply vacuum is entirely
gone.
2. Put light, steady pressure on the brake pedal.
3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake
pedal should fall toward the floor if the constant pressure is maintained.
Power brake systems may be tested for hydraulic leaks just as ordinary systems are
tested.
Bleeding the Brakes

EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding
procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the
system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the
diaphragm.
2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically
during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the
master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot
of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are
unscrewed.
Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to

the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid
Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the

brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel
Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressorR/V Series
Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressorC/K Series

4. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert
the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the
end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is
to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right
rear, left rear, right front, left front.
5. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip,
tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
6. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual
vacuum.
7. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the
bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder
screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are
visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast
will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
8. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master
cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not
the stuff bled from the system.
9. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its
cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
HYDRO-BOOST
The system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump
reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.

Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before
cranking the engine.
2. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the
engine for a few seconds.
3. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on
the dipstick.
4. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level
and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn
the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the
fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
5. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after
bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second
part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the
system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster
may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal
with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops,
check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.
Brake Hoses And Lines
Metal lines and rubber brake hoses should be checked frequently for leaks and external
damage. Metal lines are particularly prone to crushing and kinking under the vehicle.
Any such deformation can restrict the proper flow of fluid and therefore impair braking
at the wheels. Rubber hoses should be checked for cracking or scraping; such damage
can create a weak spot in the hose and it could fail under pressure.
Any time the lines are removed or disconnected, extreme cleanliness must be observed.
Clean all joints and connections before disassembly (use a stiff bristle brush and clean
brake fluid); be sure to plug the lines and ports as soon as they are opened. New lines
and hoses should be flushed clean with brake fluid before installation to remove any
contamination.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Remove any wheel and tire assemblies necessary for access to the particular line
you are removing.
4. Thoroughly clean the surrounding area at the joints to be disconnected.
Fig. 1: Use a brush to clean the fittings of any

debris
5. Place a suitable catch pan under the joint to be disconnected.
6. Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting), disconnect
the hose or line to be replaced.
Fig. 2: Use two wrenches to loosen the fitting. If

available, use flare nut type wrenches
7. Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary.
Always use a back-up wrench to avoid damaging the fitting.
8. Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line
from the vehicle.
If the brake system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines, tape or
plug each remaining clip and port to keep contaminants out and fluid in.
Fig. 3: Any gaskets/crush washers should be

replaced with new ones during installation
Fig. 4: Tape or plug the line to prevent

contamination
To install:
9. Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master
cylinder. Connect the other end, then confirm that both fittings are correctly
threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure. Make sure the new line will
not rub against any other part. Brake lines must be at least 1/2 in. (13mm) from
the steering column and other moving parts. Any protective shielding or
insulators must be reinstalled in the original location.
WARNING
Make sure the hose is NOT kinked or touching any part of the frame or suspension after
installation. These conditions may cause the hose to fail prematurely.
10. Using two wrenches as before, tighten each fitting. Observe the following
torques:
Brake hose-to-caliper bolt: 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
Front brake hose-to-frame nut: 58 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Front brake hose bracket bolt: 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Rear brake hose-to-rear axle junction block: 12 inch lbs. (1 Nm).
All brake pipe nuts: 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
11. Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines.

12. If removed, install the wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the
vehicle to the ground.
13. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid, meeting
DOT 3 specifications. Properly bleed the brake system.

15.
16.
Brake Light Switch

2. Disable the SIR system (if equipped).
3. Remove the clip (R/V Series) or unclip the switch (C/K Series) and unplug the
electrical connector from the brake light switch.
4. Remove the switch.
6. Combination Valve
This valve is used on all models with disc brakes. The valve itself is a combination of:
1. The metering valve, which will not allow the front disc brakes to engage until
the rear brakes contact the drum.
2. The failure warning switch, which notifies the driver if one of the systems has a
leak.
3. The proportioner which limits rear brake pressure and delays rear wheel skid.

R/V Series
See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines and plug them to prevent dirt from entering the
system.
Fig. 1: Combination valve mounting-R/V Series

2. Disconnect the warning switch harness.
3. Unfasten the retaining bolts and remove the valve.
4. Install the valve and tighten the retainers to 150 inch lbs. (17 Nm).
5. Bleed the brake system.
C/K Series
MANUAL BRAKES
See Figure 2
1. Disconnect the brake lines at the valve. Plug or cap the lines and ports.
2. Unplug the switch wiring connector.
3. Remove the valve-to-bracket bolts.
To install:
4. Install the valve. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
5. Bleed the system.
Fig. 2: Combination valve-C/K Series
POWER BRAKES
1. Disconnect the brake lines at the switch. Plug or cap the lines and ports.
2. Unplug the warning switch wiring connector.
3. Remove the anti-lock brake system control module from the bracket. See the
procedure later in this section.

4. Remove the bolts attaching the ABS isolation/dump valve to the bracket. See the
procedure later in this section.

5. Remove the nuts that attach the master cylinder and bracket to the booster.
6. Remove the bracket and combination valve assembly.
To install:
7. Position the bracket/valve assembly and install the master cylinder-to-booster
nuts. Tighten the nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
8. Install the ABS isolation/dump valve nuts. Tighten them to 21 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
9. Install the ABS control module.
10. Connect the wiring.
11. Connect the hydraulic lines.
12. Bleed the system.
SWITCH CENTERING
Whenever work on the brake system is done it is possible that the brake warning light
will come on and refuse to go off when the work is finished. In this event, the switch
must be centered.
1. Raise and support the truck.
2. Attach a bleeder hose to the rear brake bleed screw and immerse the other end of
the hose in a jar of clean brake fluid.
3. Be sure that the master cylinder is full.
4. When bleeding the brakes, the pin in the end of the metering portion of the
combination valve must be held in the open position (with the tool described in
the brake bleeding section installed under the pin mounting bolt). Be sure to
tighten the bolt after removing the tool.
5. Turn the ignition key ON. Open the bleed screw while an assistant applies heavy
pressure on the brake pedal. The warning lamp should light. Close the bleed
screw before the helper releases the pedal.
6. To reset the switch, apply heavy pressure to the pedal. This will apply hydraulic
pressure to the switch which will re-center it.
7. Repeat Step 5 for the front bleed screw.
8. Turn the ignition OFF and lower the truck.
If the warning lamp does not light during Step 5, the switch is defective and must be
replaced.
Height Sensing Proportioning Valve

This valve distributes braking pressure evenly from front-to-rear depending on either a
light or heavy load condition. Not all models utilize this valve.
CAUTION
Adjustment of the valve is determined by the distance between the axle and frame. The
addition of such aftermarket items as air shocks, lift kits and addition spring leaves will
render the valve inoperable, resulting in unsatisfactory brake performance, accident and
injury!
See Figures 1 and 2
Special gauging tools are required for this job.
1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands under the frame, allowing the axle
to hang freely.
Fig. 1: Height sensing proportioning valve-R/V

Series
Fig. 2: Height sensing proportioning valve-C/K

Series
2. Clean the exterior of the valve.
3. Disconnect the brake lines at the valve. Cap the lines.
4. Remove the valve shaft-to-lever nut.
5. Remove the valve-to-bracket bolts.
To install:
6. Position the valve on the bracket and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Adjust the valve as described below.
8. Connect the lever to the valve shaft and tighten the nut to 89 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
9. Connect the brake lines and tighten them to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
10. Bleed the brakes.
ADJUSTMENT
If front wheels lock-up at moderate brake pressure is experienced with the vehicle at or
near maximum GVWR, or, whenever the valve is replaced, the valve must be adjusted.
Special gauging tools are required for this job.
1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands under the frame, allowing the axle
to hang freely.
Fig. 3: Installing the valve
Fig. 4: Installing the adjustment gauge
Fig. 5: After installation, sever the adjustment

tang
2. Remove the shaft-to-lever nut and disconnect the lever from the shaft.
3. Obtain the proper gauge:
R and V with Extra Capacity Rear Spring option: part number 14061394;
color green; code A
R Series without Extra Capacity Rear Spring option, and with either the
6-4.3L or 8-5.7L engine: part number 14061395; color black; code B.
V Series without Extra Capacity Rear Spring option and with the diesel
engine or the 8-5.7L engine: part number 14061396; color blue; code C.
R and V Series with VD1 tire option: part number 15592484; color red;
code D.
V Series, except above: part number 15548904; color yellow; code E.
C/K Series: part number 15592484.
4. Rotate the valve shaft to permit installation of the gauge. The center hole of the
gauge must seat on the D-shape of the valve shaft. The gauge tang must seat in
the valve mounting hole.
5. Install the lever on the shaft with a C-clamp to seat the nylon bushings on the
serrated valve shaft. Don't force it into position.

6. Install the nut on the shaft and tighten it to 89 inch lbs. (7 Nm) on the R/V
series; 8 ft. lbs. (9 Nm) on the C/K Series

7. Break off or cut the tang on the gauge.
8. Road test the truck. The gauge will stay in place.
9. Hydro-Boost
Diesel engine trucks and some 30/3500 series trucks and motor home chassis are
equipped with the Bendix Hydro-boost system. This power brake booster obtains
hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump, rather than vacuum pressure from the
intake manifold as in most gasoline engine brake booster systems.
CAUTION
Power steering fluid and brake fluid cannot be mixed. If brake seals contact the steering
fluid or steering seals contact the brake fluid, damage will result!
1. Turn the engine off and pump the brake pedal 4 or 5 times to deplete the
accumulator inside the unit.
2. Tag and disconnect the hoses from the booster.
3. Unfasten the master cylinder retainers, and remove the cylinder keeping the
brake lines attached. Secure the master cylinder out of the way.
4. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
5. Unfasten the pushrod retainer and disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal,
in some cases it will be easier to remove the brake light switch to access the
pushrod retainer.
6. Remove the booster unit from the firewall.

7. Remove the gasket.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal, but please note the following important steps.
8. Always install a new gasket.
9. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on all except 1996-98
models and 26 ft lbs. (36 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
10. After installation is complete, bleed the Hydro-Boost system.
11.
Master Cylinder

See Figures 1 and 2
WARNING
Clean any master cylinder parts in alcohol or brake fluid. Never use mineral based
cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosene, carbon tetrachloride, acetone, or paint
thinner as these will destroy rubber parts. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the
vehicle's finish, it will remove the paint. Flush the area with water.
1. Using a clean cloth, wipe the master cylinder and its lines to remove excess dirt
and then place cloths under the unit to absorb any spilled fluid.
2. Remove the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder using a flare nut wrench
and plug the outlets to prevent the entrance of foreign material. On trucks with
ABS, disconnect the lines at the isolation/dump valve.
3. Remove the master cylinder attaching bolts or, on trucks with ABS, the attaching
bolts from the isolation/dump valve, and remove the master cylinder from the
brake booster, or, on trucks with manual brakes, the firewall.
CAUTION
On trucks with ABS, never let brake fluid or your skin touch the ECU electrical
connections! Also, never let the isolation/dump valve hang by its wiring!
To install:
4. Position the master cylinder or, on trucks with ABS the master cylinder and
isolation/dump valve, on the booster or firewall. Tighten the nuts to 20 ft. lbs.
(27 Nm).
5. Connect the brake lines and tighten them to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on R/V series
and 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) on C/K models. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs to the
proper levels.
Fig. 1: Remove the hydraulic lines from the

master cylinder using a line wrench
Fig. 2: Unfasten the master cylinder attaching

bolts and remove the master cylinder
Vacuum Booster
See Figure 1
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
4. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and pull it off the studs,
CAREFULLY! It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.

6. If necessary, remove the brake light switch.
7. Disconnect the booster pushrod at the brake pedal.
8. Remove the booster mounting nuts, located on the inside of the firewall.
Fig. 1: Vacuum booster mounting

9. Lift off the booster and remove the gasket.
To install:
10. Install the booster with a new gasket.
11. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on all except 1996-98
models. On 1996-98 models, tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
12. Install all remaining components.
13. Brake
Caliper

Delco System
1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon enough fluid out of the
reservoirs to bring the level to 2/3 full. This step prevents spilling fluid when the
piston is pushed back.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels and tires.
3. Push the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp to pull the caliper
outward.
4. Unfasten the brake hose fitting from the caliper using a flare nut wrench, cap the
fitting to prevent foreign material from entering the or the hose.
5. Remove the two bolts which hold the caliper and then lift the caliper off the disc.
CAUTION
Do not let the caliper assembly hang by the brake hose.
6. Remove the inboard and outboard shoe.
If the pads are to be reinstalled, mark them inside and outside.
7. Remove the pad support spring from the piston.

8. Remove the two sleeves from the inside ears of the caliper and the 4 rubber
bushings from the grooves in the caliper ears.
9. Remove the caliper.
10. Check the inside of the caliper for fluid leakage; if so, the caliper should be
overhauled.
CAUTION
Do not use compressed air to clean the inside of the caliper as this may unseat the dust
boot.
To install:
11. Lubricate the sleeves, rubber bushings, bushing grooves, and the end of the
mounting bolts using silicone lubricant.
12. Install new bushing in the caliper ears along with new sleeves. The sleeve should
be replaced so that the end toward the shoe is flush with the machined surface of
the ear.
13. Install the brake pads.
14. With the two pads in position, place the caliper over the brake disc and align the
holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
CAUTION
Make certain that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked.
15. Fill the cavity between the bolt bushings with silicone grease. Install the
mounting bracket bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and
through the mounting bracket, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass under
the retaining ears on the inboard pad.
For best results, always use new bushings, sleeves and bolt boots.
16. Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for R/V Series; 28 ft. lbs. (38
Nm) for 1988-92 C/K Series and 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for 1993-98 C/K Series.
17. Connect the brake hose to the caliper and tighten the fitting until the are snug.
18. Pump the brake pedal to seat the pad against the rotor. Don't do this unless both
calipers are in place. Use a pair of channel lock pliers to bend over the upper
ears of the outer pad so it isn't loose.
After tightening the mounting bolts, there must be clearance between the caliper and
knuckle at both the upper and lower edge. On R/V Series, the clearance must be 0.0100.024 in. (0.26-0.60mm); on C/K Series, it must be 0.005-0.012 in. (0.13-0.30mm) for
1988-91, and 0.010-0.028 in. (0.26-0.71mm) on 1992-98 models. If not, loosen the bolts
and reposition the caliper.
19. Install the front wheel and lower the truck.
20. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so that they are 1/4 in. (6mm) from the
top.
22. Check the fluid level again and add fluid as necessary. Do not move the vehicle
until a hard pedal is obtained.
Bendix System
The Bendix system is used on some front brake applications and all rear brake
applications.
1. Remove approximately 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Discard
the used brake fluid.

2. Raise and support the front end on jackstands. Remove the front wheels and
tires.
3. Push the piston back into its bore. This can be done by suing a C-clamp.
4. Unscrew the brake line at the caliper. Plug the opening. Discard the copper
washer. Be careful not to damage the brake line.

5. Remove the bolt at the caliper support key. Use a brass drift pin to remove the
key and spring.
6. Rotate the caliper up and forward from the bottom and lift it off the caliper
support.
7. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
To install:
8. Lubricate the caliper support and support spring with silicone.
9. Install the brake pads.
10. Position the caliper over the brake disc, top edge first. Rotate the caliper
downward onto the support.
11. Place the spring over the caliper support key, install the assembly between the
support and lower caliper groove. Tap into place until the key retaining screw
can be installed.
12. Use a brass drift pin to remove the key and spring.
13. Install the screw and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). The boss must fit fully into
the circular cutout in the key.
14. Using a new copper washer, connect the brake line at the caliper. Tighten the
connector to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
16. Install the wheel.
OVERHAUL
Some vehicles may be equipped dual piston calipers. The procedure to overhaul the
caliper is essentially the same with the exception of multiple pistons, O-rings and dust
boots.
1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench.
CAUTION
NEVER place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect the
pistons when applying compressed air. This could result in personal injury!
Depending upon the vehicle, there are two different ways to remove the piston from the
caliper. Refer to the brake pad replacement procedure to make sure you have the correct
procedure for your vehicle.
2. The first method is as follows:
a. Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to catch the piston.
b. Remove the caliper piston using compressed air applied into the caliper
inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion and/or worn or
damaged chrome plating. The piston must be replaced if any of these
conditions are found.
Fig. 1: For some types of calipers,

use compressed air to drive the piston out of the caliper, but make sure to
keep your fingers clear
Fig. 2: Withdraw the piston from

the caliper bore
3. For the second method, you must rotate the piston to retract it from the caliper.
4. If equipped, remove the anti-rattle clip.
Fig. 3: On some vehicles, you must remove the

anti-rattle clip
5. Use a prytool to remove the caliper boot, being careful not to scratch the housing
bore.
Fig. 4: Use a prytool to carefully pry around the

edge of the boot...
Fig. 5: ... then remove the boot from the caliper

housing, taking care not to score or damage the bore
6. Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore.
Fig. 6: Use extreme caution when removing the

piston seal; DO NOT scratch the caliper bore
7. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing.
8. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive
wear.
9. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore.
10. Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air.
To assemble:
11. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap.
12. Install the new seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are not
twisted.
13. Lubricate the piston bore.
14. Install the pistons and boots into the bores of the calipers and push to the bottom
of the bores.
15. Use a suitable driving tool to seat the boots in the housing.
Fig. 7: Use the proper size driving tool and a

mallet to properly seal the boots in the caliper housing
16. Install the caliper in the vehicle.
17. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
18. Properly bleed the brake system.
Fig. 8: There are tools, such as this Mighty-Vac,

available to assist in proper brake system bleeding
Brake Disc (Rotor)

Front
R-Series and C-Series
See Figure 1
1. Remove the brake caliper as previously outlined.
2. Remove the outer wheel bearing.
3. Remove the rotor from the spindle.
4. Reverse procedure to install. Adjust the bearings.
Fig. 1: Remove the wheel and outer wheel

bearing so that the rotor can be removed from the vehicle
V-Series
Before starting, you'll need a special wheel bearing nut socket for your 1/2 inch drive
ratchet. These sockets are available through auto parts stores and catalogs. You can't
do this job properly without it.
1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Remove the wheels.
3. Remove the hubs.

4. Wipe the inside of the hub to remove as much grease as possible.
5. Using your bearing nut socket, remove the locknut from the spindle.
6. With the locknut off you'll be able to see the locking ring on the adjusting nut.
Remove the locking ring. A tool such as a dental pick will make this easier.
7. Using the special socket, remove the bearing adjusting nut.
You'll notice that the adjusting nut and the locknut are almost identical. The difference
is, the adjusting nut has a small pin on one side which indexes with a hole in the locking
ring. DO NOT CONFUSE THE TWO NUTS!
8. Dismount the brake caliper and suspend it out of the way, without disconnecting
the brake line.
9. Pull the hub off of the spindle. The outer bearing will tend to fall out as soon as
it clears the spindle, so have a hand ready to catch it.
The minimum wear thickness, 1.215 in. (30.86mm), is cast into each disc hub. This is a
minimum wear dimension and not a refinish dimension. If the thickness of the disc after
refinishing will be 1.230 in. (31.2mm) or less, it must be replaced. Refinishing is
required whenever the disc surface shows scoring or severe rust scale. Scoring not
deeper than 0.015 in. (0.38mm) in depth can be corrected by refinishing.
Some discs have an anti-squeal groove. This should not be mistaken for scoring.
To install:
10. Carefully place the hub assembly on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging
the seal on the spindle threads. Make sure the hub is all the way on the spindle.
11. Place the outer bearing on the spindle and slide it into place in its race.
12. Thread the adjusting nut on the spindle until it contacts the outer bearing.
WARNING
Make sure you are using the adjusting nut. Remember, it has a small pin on one side.
That pin must face outwards, towards you!
13. Using the special socket and the torque wrench:
a. Tighten the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) while rotating the hub.
b. Back off the adjusting nut until it is loose.
c. While rotating the hub, tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for
automatic locking hubs or 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for manual locking hubs.
d. Back off the adjusting nut 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn for automatic hubs or 1/4 turn
for manual hubs.
14. Coat the locking ring with wheel bearing grease. Place the locking ring on the
spindle. There is a tab on the inner diameter of the ring which must fit in the slot
on the top of the spindle. Slide the locking ring in until it contacts the adjusting
nut. The pin on the adjusting nut must enter one of the holes in the locking ring.
You can tell that the locking ring is seated properly when you see the grease on
the ring get pushed out of one of the holes by the pin, and the ring does not rock
from side-to-side when you press on either side with your finger. If the locking
ring and pin don't index, take note of how far off they are, pull the ring off the
spindle and turn the nut, either by hand or with the socket, just enough for a
good fit. Try the locking ring again.
15. When the locking ring engages the adjusting nut pin properly, your bearing
adjustment is set. Thread the locknut onto the spindle until it contacts the
locking ring.
16. Tighten the locknut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm). This locknut ensures that
the locking ring and adjusting nut don't move. Over-tightening the locknut has
no effect on the bearing adjustment.
17. Install the locking hub.
18. Install the caliper and then install the wheel.
K1 and 2-Series
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the caliper. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Use a
piece of wire to support the caliper, do not let it hang on the hose.
4. Remove the rotor.
K3-Series
3. Remove the hub nut and washer. Insert a long drift or dowel through the vanes
in the brake rotor to hold the rotor while loosening the nut.
4. Using a puller, force the outer end of the axle shaft out of the hub. Remove the
hub/rotor.
To install:
5. Position the shaft in the hub and install the washer and hub nut. Leave the drift
in the rotor vanes and tighten the hub nut to 173 ft. lbs. (235 Nm).
6. Remove the drift.
7. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle.
Rear
1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
3. Remove the axle shaft. Refer to for this procedure.
4. Using wheel bearing nut wrench, remove the outer lock nut. If equipped, remove
the retaining ring.
5. Remove the lock or key washer.
6. Remove the bearing adjusting nut and washer.
7. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
To install:
8. Install the hub and rotor assembly making sure the bearings and the oil seal are
positioned properly.
9. Apply alight coating of high melting point wheel bearing lubricant to the contact
surfaces outside diameter of the axle housing tube.
10. Install the washer making sure the tang is engaged in the keyway.
11. Install the bearing adjusting nut and tighten as follows:
a. Tighten the nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) while turning the hub.
b. Back off the nut and retighten to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm) while rotating
the hub.
c. Back the nut off 135-150.
12. Install the lockwasher and the locknut. Bend one ear of the lockwasher over the
inner nut a minimum of 30 and one ear of the lockwasher over the outer nut a
minimum of 60.
13. Tighten the nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
14. Install the axle shaft, the tire and wheel assembly and lower the vehicle.
INSPECTION
1. Using a brake rotor micrometer measure the rotor thickness in several places
around the rotor.
2. If the disc brake rotor minimum thickness varies more than 0.0005 inch
(0.013mm) from point-to-point, refinish or replace the rotor
3. Mount a magnetic base dial indicator to the strut member and zero the indicator
stylus on the face of the rotor. Rotate the rotor 360 degrees by hand and record
the run-out.
If the wheel has to be removed to check run-out, install the wheel lugs and tighten them
to specification to hold the rotor in place.
4. Refer to the brake specifications chart at the end of this section for the rotor runout specification. If the run-out exceeds specification, it should be replaced.
CAUTION
Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a
cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid
inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a
commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
Brake Pads
Delco System
1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon out 2/3 of the fluid. This
step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back.
Fig. 1: Delco brake pad and caliper assemblyR/V Series
Fig. 2: Delco 3400 brake pad and caliper

assembly-C/K Series
Fig. 3: Delco 3486 brake pad and caliper

assembly-C/K Series
Fig. 4: Compressing the Delco brake pad earsR/V Series
Fig. 5: Compressing the Delco brake pad earsC/K Series
Fig. 6: Caliper-to-bracket clearances-C/K Series

shown
Fig. 7: Remove the wheel to gain access to the

caliper and pad assembly
Fig. 8: Push the piston back into its bore using a

C-clamp to move the caliper outward
Fig. 9: Loosen and remove the caliper mounting

bolts
Fig. 10: Grasp the caliper assembly and pull it

off the rotor
Fig. 11: Remove the inboard pad
Fig. 12: Remove the outboard pad

4. Push the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp to pull the caliper
outward.
5. Remove the two bolts which hold the caliper and then lift the caliper off the disc.
CAUTION
Do not let the caliper assembly hang by the brake hose.
6. Remove the inboard and outboard shoe. Use a small prybar to disengage the
buttons on the outboard shoe from the holes in the caliper housing.
If the pads are to be reinstalled, mark them inside and outside.
7. Remove the pad support spring from the piston.
To install:
8. Position the support spring and the inner pad into the center cavity of the piston,
snap the retaining spring into the piston. The outboard pad has ears which are
bent over to keep the pad in position while the inboard pad has ears on the top
end which fit over the caliper retaining bolts. A spring which is inside the brake
piston holds the bottom edge of the inboard pad.
9. Push down on the inner pad until it lays flat against the caliper. It is important to
push the piston all the way into the caliper if new linings are installed or the
caliper will not fit over the rotor.
10. Position the outboard pad with the ears of the pad over the caliper ears and the
tab at the bottom engaged in the caliper cutout.
11. With the two pads in position, place the caliper over the brake disc and align the
holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
CAUTION
Make certain that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked.
12. Install the mounting bracket bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears
and through the mounting bracket, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass
under the retaining ears on the inboard pad.
For best results, always use new bushings, bolt sleeves and bolt boot.
13. Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for R/V Series; 28 ft. lbs. (38
Nm) for 1988-92 C/K Series and 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for 1993-98 C/K Series.
Pump the brake pedal to seat the pad against the rotor. Don't do this unless both
calipers are in place. Use a pair of channel lock pliers to bend over the upper
ears of the outer pad so it isn't loose.
After tightening the mounting bolts, there must be clearance between the caliper and
knuckle at both the upper and lower edge. On R/V Series, the clearance must be 0.0100.024 in. (0.26-0.60mm); on C/K Series, it must be 0.005-0.012 in. (0.13-0.30mm) for
1988-91 models, and 0.010-0.024 in. (0.26-0.60mm) on 1992-98 models. If not, loosen
the bolts and reposition the caliper.
14. Install the wheel and lower the truck.
15. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so that they are 1/4 in. (6mm) from the
top.
16. Test the brake pedal by pumping it to obtain a hard pedal. Check the fluid level
again and add fluid as necessary. Do not move the vehicle until a hard pedal is
obtained.
Bendix System
The Bendix system is used on some front brake applications and all rear brake
applications.
1. Remove approximately 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Discard
the used brake fluid.
Fig. 13: Bendix brake pad and caliper

components
Fig. 14: Compressing the Bendix caliper piston
Fig. 15: Removing the Bendix caliper support

key
Fig. 16: Installing the Bendix caliper support key

2. Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
3. Push the piston back into its bore. This can be done by using a C-clamp.
4. Remove the bolt at the caliper support key. Use a brass drift pin to remove the
key and spring.
5. Rotate the caliper up and forward from the bottom and lift it off the caliper
support.
6. Tie the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Be careful not to damage the
brake line.
7. Remove the inner pad from the caliper support. Some rear disc brake shoe
assemblies have a anti-rattle spring at the inner pad, after removing the inner
pad, look for the anti-rattle spring and remove as necessary.
8. Remove the outer pad from the caliper.
To install:
9. Lubricate the caliper support and support spring, with silicone.
10. If equipped on the rear disc brake assembly, install the anti-rattle spring in place
before installing the inner pad.
11. Install the lower end of the inboard shoe into the groove provided in the support.
Slide the upper end of the shoe into position. Be sure the clip remains in
position.
12. Position the outboard shoe in the caliper with the ears at the top of the shoe over
the caliper ears and the tab at the bottom of the shoe engaged in the caliper
cutout. If assembly is difficult, a C-clamp may be used. Be careful not to mar the
lining.
13. Position the caliper over the brake disc, top edge first. Rotate the caliper
downward onto the support.
14. Place the spring over the caliper support key, install the assembly between the
support and lower caliper groove. Tap into place until the key retaining screw
can be installed.
15. Install the screw and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). The boss must fit fully into
the circular cutout in the key.
16. Install the wheel and add brake fluid as necessary.
INSPECTION
See Figures 17 and 18
Support the truck on jackstands and remove the wheels. Look in at the ends of the
caliper to check the lining thickness of the outer pad. Look through the inspection hole
in the top of the caliper to check the thickness of the inner pad. Refer to the brake
specifications chart at the end of this section for the brake pad minimum thickness.
Fig. 17: Inspecting the brake pads
Fig. 18: Brake pads are equipped with wear

indicators; when the pad is worn to its limit, the indicator will rub against the rotor
These manufacturer's specifications may not agree with your state inspection law.
Original equipment pads and GM replacement pads have an integral wear sensor. This is
a spring steel tab on the rear edge of the inner pad which produces a squeal by rubbing
against the rotor to warn that the pads have reached their wear limit. They do not squeal
when the brakes are applied.
The squeal will eventually stop if worn pads aren't replaced. Should this happen, replace
the pads immediately to prevent expensive rotor (disc) damage.
DISC BRAKES
The front brake system uses either a Delco or Bendix system. Refer to the illustration of
the brake components to determine which brake system is used on your vehicle. A
Bendix system is the only type used on all rear brake applications.
CAUTION
Brake Drums
Semi-Floating Axles
CAUTION
See Figure 1
3. Pull the drum from the brake assembly. If the brake drums have been scored
from worn linings, the brake adjuster must be backed off so that the brake shoes
will retract from the drum. The adjuster can be backed off by inserting a brake
adjusting tool through the access hole provided. In some cases the access hole is
provided in the brake drum. A metal cover plate is over the hole. This may be
removed by using a hammer and chisel.
Fig. 1: You may have to back off the automatic

adjuster before you can pull the drum from the brake assembly
4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Full Floating Axles
To remove the drums from full floating rear axles, use . Full floating rear axles can
readily be identified by the bearing housing protruding through the center of the wheel.
Make sure all metal particles are removed from the brake drum before reassembly.
INSPECTION
When the drum is removed, it should be inspected for cracks, scores, or other
imperfections. These must be corrected before the drum is replaced.
CAUTION
If the drum is found to be cracked, replace it. Do not attempt to service a cracked drum.
Minor drum score marks can be removed with fine emery cloth. Heavy score marks
must be removed by turning the drum. This is removing metal from the entire inner
surface of the drum on a lathe in order to level the surface. Automotive machine shops
and some large parts stores are equipped to perform this operation.
If the drum is not scored, it should be polished with fine emery cloth before
replacement. If the drum has to be resurfaced, it should not be enlarged more than the
maximum wear limit. Refer to the brake specifications chart in this section for the brake
drum original inside diameter and maximum wear limit specifications for your vehicle.
It is advisable, while the drums are off, to check them for out-of-round. An inside
micrometer is necessary for an exact measurement, therefore unless this tool is
available, the drums should be taken to a machine shop to be checked. Any drum which
is more than 0.006 in. (0.1524mm) out-of-round will result in an inaccurate brake
adjustment and other problems, and should be refinished or replaced.
Make all measurements at right angles to each other and at the open and closed edges
of the drum machined surface.
Brake Shoes
INSPECTION
3. Remove the drum from the brake assembly.
4. Use a ruler or a suitable measuring device to measure the lining thickness at the
middle and both ends of the shoes.
5. Check the brake linings for peeling, cracks or extremely uneven wear.
6. Compare your readings to the minimum thickness specifications shown in the
brake specifications chart in this section. If the lining thickness is less than
specified, replace the brake shoes.
7. If their is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace
the shoes.
8. Always replace the brake shoe assemblies on both sides.

Duo-Servo
1. Raise and securely support the vehicle using jackstands.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the duo-servo drum

brake components
2. Loosen the parking brake equalizer enough to remove all tension on the brake
cable.
3. Remove the brake drums.
WARNING
The brake pedal must not be depressed while the drums are removed!
4. Using a brake tool, remove the shoe return springs. You can do this with
ordinary tools, but it isn't easy.
5. Remove the shoe guide.
6. Remove the hold-down pins. These are the brackets which run though the
backing plate. They can be removed with a pair of pliers. Reach around the rear
of the backing plate and hold the back of the pin. Turn the top of the pin retainer
45 with the pliers. This will align the elongated tang with the slot in the
retainer. Be careful, as the pin is spring loaded and may fly off when released.
Use the same procedure for the other pin assembly.
7. Remove the adjuster actuator assembly.
8. Remove the actuator lever adjuster spring and link.
Fig. 2: Using a brake tool, remove the shoe

return springs
Fig. 3: Remove the self-adjuster actuator spring
Fig. 4: Remove the link from the secondary shoe

by pulling it from the anchor pin
Fig. 5: Remove the hold-down pins

9. Remove the parking brake strut and the strut spring.
10. Remove the shoes from the backing plate. Make sure that you have a secure grip
on the assembly as the bottom spring will still exert pressure on the shoes.
Slowly let the tops of the shoes come together and the tension will decrease and
the adjuster and spring may be removed.
If the linings are to be reused, mark them for identification.
Fig. 6: Remove the shoes from the backing plate
Fig. 7: Remove the parking brake strut and

spring
Fig. 8: Remove the rear parking brake lever from

the secondary shoe using a pair of pliers
Fig. 9: It's always a good idea to lay all the parts

out as they come off
11. Remove the rear parking brake lever from the secondary shoe. Using a pair of
pliers, pull back on the spring which surrounds the cable. At the same time,
remove the cable from the notch in the shoe bracket. Make sure that the spring
does not snap back or injury may result.
To install:
12. Use a brake cleaning fluid to remove dirt from the brake drum. Check the drums
for scoring and cracks. Have the drums checked for out-of-round and service the
drums as necessary.
13. Check the wheel cylinders by carefully pulling the lower edges of the wheel
cylinder boots away from the cylinders. If there is excessive leakage, the inside
of the cylinder will be moist with fluid. If there is any leakage at all, a cylinder
overhaul is in order. DO NOT delay, as a brake failure could result.
A small amount of fluid will be present to act as a lubricant for the wheel cylinder
pistons.
14. Check the flange plate, which is located around the axle, for leakage of
differential lubricant. This condition cannot be overlooked as the lubricant will

be absorbed into the brake linings and brake failure will result. Replace the seals
as necessary.
If new linings are being installed, check them against the old units for length and type.
15. Check the new linings for imperfections.
CAUTION
It is important to keep your hands free of dirt and grease when handling the brake shoes.
Foreign matter will be absorbed into the linings and result in unpredictable braking.
16. Lightly lubricate the parking brake and cable and the end of the parking brake
lever where it enters the shoe. Use high temperature, waterproof, grease or
special brake lube.
17. Install the parking brake lever into the secondary shoe with the attaching bolt,
spring washer, lockwasher, and nut. It is important that the lever move freely
before the shoe is attached. Move the assembly and check for proper action.
18. Lubricate the adjusting screw and make sure that it works freely. Sometimes the
adjusting screw will not move due to lack of lubricant or dirt contamination and
the brakes will not adjust. In this case, the adjuster should be disassembled,
thoroughly cleaned, and lubricated before installation.
19. Connect the brake shoe spring to the bottom portion of both shoes. Make certain
that the brake linings are installed in the correct manner, the primary and
secondary shoe in the correct position. If you are not sure remove the other
brake drum and check it.
20. Install the adjusting mechanism below the spring and separate the top of the
shoes.
21. Make the following checks before installation:
a. Be certain that the right hand thread adjusting screw is on the left hand
side of the vehicle and the left hand screw is on the right hand side of the
vehicle.
b. Make sure that the star adjuster is aligned with the adjusting hole.
c. The adjuster should be installed with the starwheel nearest the secondary
shoe and the tension spring away from the adjusting mechanism;
d. If the original linings are being reused, put them back in their original
locations.
22. Install the parking brake cable.
23. Position the primary shoe (the shoe with the short lining) first. Secure it with the
hold-down pin and with its spring by pushing the pin through the back of the
backing plate and, while holding it with one hand, install the spring and the
retainer using a pair of needlenose pliers. Install the adjuster actuator assembly.
24. Install the parking brake strut and the strut spring by pulling back the spring
with pliers and engaging the end of the cable onto the brake strut and then
releasing the spring.
25. Place the small metal guide plate over the anchor pin and position the selfadjuster wire cable eye.
CAUTION
The wire should not be positioned with the conventional brake installation tool or
damage will result. It should be positioned on the actuator assembly first and then
placed over the anchor pin stud by hand with the adjuster assembly in full downward
position.
26. Install the actuator return spring. DO NOT pry the actuator lever to install the
return spring. Position it using the end of a screwdriver or another suitable tool.
If the return springs are bent or in any way distorted, they should be replaced.
27. Using the brake installation tool, place the brake return springs in position.
Install the primary spring first over the anchor pin and then place the spring
from the secondary show over the wire link end.
28. Pull the brake shoes away from the backing plate and apply a thin coat of high
temperature, waterproof, grease or special brake lube in the brake shoe contact
points.
CAUTION
Only a small amount is necessary. Keep the lubricant away from the brake linings.
29. Once the complete assembly has been installed, check the operation of the selfadjusting mechanism by moving the actuating lever by hand.
30. Turn the star adjuster until the drum slides over the brakes shoes with only a
slight drag. Remove the drum.
31. Turn the adjuster back 11/4 turns.
32. Install the drum and wheel.
33. Adjust the brakes.
34. If necessary, adjust the parking brake.
Leading/Trailing
See Figures 10, 11, 12
1. Jack up and securely support the vehicle using jackstands.
2. Loosen the parking brake equalizer enough to remove all tension on the brake
cable.
Fig. 10: Exploded view of the leading/trailing

drum brake-C/K Series
Fig. 11: Push the parking brake lever off its stopC/K Series
Fig. 12: Removing the adjuster actuator-C/K

Series
3. Remove the brake drums. If difficulty is till encountered, remove the access hole
plug in the backing plate and insert a metal rod to push the parking brake lever
off its stop.
WARNING
The brake pedal must not be depressed while the drums are removed!
4. Raise the lever arm of the actuator until the upper end is clear of the slot in the
adjuster screw. Slide the actuator off the adjuster pin.
5. Disconnect the actuator from the brake shoe.

6. Remove the hold-down pins. These are the brackets which run though the
backing plate. They can be removed with a pair of pliers. Reach around the rear
of the backing plate and hold the back of the pin. Turn the top of the pin retainer
45 with the pliers. This will align the elongated tang with the slot in the
retainer. Be careful, as the pin is spring loaded and may fly off when released.
Use the same procedure for the other pin assembly.
7. Pull the lower ends of the shoes apart and lift the lower return spring over the
anchor plate. Remove the spring from the shoes.

8. Lift the shoes and upper return spring along with the adjusting screw, from the
backing plate. Some spreading of the shoes is necessary to clear the wheel
cylinder and axle flange. Remove the upper spring.
9. Remove the retaining ring, pin, spring washer and parking brake lever.
If the linings are to be reused, mark them for identification.
To install:
10. Use a brake cleaning fluid to remove dirt from the brake drum. Check the drums
for scoring and cracks. Have the drums checked for out-of-round and service the
drums as necessary.
11. Check the wheel cylinders by carefully pulling the lower edges of the wheel
cylinder boots away from the cylinders. If there is excessive leakage, the inside
of the cylinder will be moist with fluid. If there is any leakage at all, a cylinder
overhaul is in order. DO NOT delay, as a brake failure could result.
A small amount of fluid will be present to act as a lubricant for the wheel cylinder
pistons.
12. Check the flange plate, which is located around the axle, for leakage of
differential lubricant. This condition cannot be overlooked as the lubricant will

be absorbed into the brake linings and brake failure will result. Replace the seals
as necessary.
If new linings are being installed, check them against the old units for length and type.
13. Check the new linings for imperfections.
CAUTION
It is important to keep your hands free of dirt and grease when handling the brake shoes.
Foreign matter will be absorbed into the linings and result in unpredictable braking.
14. Install the parking brake lever assembly The concave side of the washer should
be against the shoe.
15. Install the adjuster pin in the shoe so that the pin projects 0.268-0.276 in. (6.87.0mm) from the side of the shoe where the actuator is installed.
16. Apply an approved brake lubricant grease to the threads of the adjuster screw,
socket and socket face.
17. Make certain that the brake linings are positioned correctly and connect the
upper spring. If you are not sure of which shoe goes where, remove the other
brake drum and check it. Don't over-stretch the spring; you'll ruin it. The spring
can't be stretched, safely, more than 8.04 in. (204mm).
18. Install the adjusting mechanism between the shoes. Make the following checks
before installation:
a. Be certain that the adjusting screw assembly engages the adjuster shoe
and parking brake lever.
b. Make sure that the spring clip is positioned towards the backing plate.
c. The linings are in the correct positions. The shoe with the parking brake
lever is the rear shoe.
19. Coat the shoe mounting pads on the backing plate with a thin coat of lithium
grease.
20. Position the assembly on the backing plate, engaging the upper shoe ends with
the wheel cylinder pushrods.
21. Hook the lower return spring into the shoe ends and spread the shoes, guiding
the lower spring over the anchor plate. Don't over-stretch the spring; you'll ruin
it. The spring can't be stretched, safely, more than 41/4 in. (108mm).
22. Install the hold-down spring assemblies.
23. Place the adjuster actuator over the end of the adjusting pin so its top leg
engages the notch in the adjuster screw.
24. Install the actuator spring. Make sure that the free end of the actuator engage the
notch of the adjuster nut. Don't over-stretch the spring. Its maximum stretch is
31/4 in. (83mm).
25. Connect the parking brake cable to the lever.
26. Turn the star adjuster until the drum slides over the brakes shoes with only a
slight drag. Remove the drum.
27. Turn the adjuster back 11/4 turns.
28. Install the drums and wheels.
29. Adjust the brakes.
30. Adjust the parking brake as necessary.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the rear of the backing plate.
3. Insert a brake adjustment tool into the adjusting hole and turn the starwheel on
the adjusting screw while turning the wheel by hand. Keep turning the starwheel
until the wheel can just be turned by hand.
4. On vehicles equipped with duo-servo drum brakes, back off the adjusting screw
33 times.
5. On vehicles equipped with leading/trailing drum brakes, back off the adjusting
screw 20 times.
6. Perform this procedure at both wheels.
7. Install the adjusting hole cover and check the parking brake adjustment.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Make the final adjustment by driving the vehicle very slowly in reverse and
pumping the brakes until the self-adjusting mechanisms adjust to the proper
level and the brake pedal reaches satisfactory height.
10. Road test the vehicle.
11.
Wheel Cylinders

See Figures 1 and 2
1. Raise and support the vehicle using jackstands.
Fig. 1: Remove the bolts securing the wheel

cylinder to the backing plate
2. Remove the wheel and tire.
3. Back off the brake adjustment if necessary and remove the drum.
4. Disconnect and plug the brake line.
5. Remove the brake shoes as described above.
6. Remove the bolts securing the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
7. Install the wheel cylinder. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Tighten the brake pipes to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm). Bleed the system.
Fig. 2: Wheel cylinder replacement

OVERHAUL
Wheel cylinder overhaul kits may be available, but often at little or no savings over a
reconditioned wheel cylinder. It often makes sense with these components to substitute
a new or reconditioned part instead of attempting an overhaul.
If no replacement is available, or you would prefer to overhaul your wheel cylinders, the
following procedure may be used. When rebuilding and installing wheel cylinders,
avoid getting any contaminants into the system. Always use clean, new, high quality
brake fluid. If dirty or improper fluid has been used, it will be necessary to drain the
entire system, flush the system with proper brake fluid, replace all rubber components,
then refill and bleed the system.
1. Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench.
2. First remove and discard the old rubber boots, then withdraw the pistons. Piston
cylinders are equipped with seals and a spring assembly, all located behind the
pistons in the cylinder bore.
Fig. 3: Remove the outer boots from the wheel

cylinder
3. Remove the remaining inner components, seals and spring assembly.
Compressed air may be useful in removing these components. If no compressed
air is available, be VERY careful not to score the wheel cylinder bore when
removing parts from it. Discard all components for which replacements were
supplied in the rebuild kit.
Fig. 4: Compressed air can be used to remove the

pistons and seals
Fig. 5: Remove the pistons, cup seals and spring

from the cylinder
4. Wash the cylinder and metal parts in denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.
Fig. 6: Use brake fluid and a soft brush to clean

the pistons...
Fig. 7: ... and the bore of the wheel cylinder

WARNING
Never use a mineral-based solvent such as gasoline, kerosene or paint thinner for
cleaning purposes. These solvents will swell rubber components and quickly deteriorate
them.
5. Allow the parts to air dry or use compressed air. Do not use rags for cleaning,
since lint will remain in the cylinder bore.
6. Inspect the piston and replace it if it shows scratches.
Fig. 8: Once cleaned and inspected, the wheel

cylinder is ready for assembly
7. Lubricate the cylinder bore and seals using clean brake fluid.
8. Position the spring assembly.
9. Install the inner seals, then the pistons.
Fig. 9: Lubricate the cup seals with brake fluid
Fig. 10: Install the spring, then the cup seals in

the bore
Fig. 11: Lightly lubricate the pistons, then install

them
10. Insert the new boots into the counterbores by hand. Do not lubricate the boots.
Fig. 12: The boots can now be installed over the

wheel cylinder ends
11. Install the wheel cylinder.
12.
Component Replacement
Fig. 1: Component locations
Fig. 2: Data link connector-anti-lock brake

system
Fig. 3: Front wheel speed sensor-2WD models
Fig. 4: Front wheel speed sensor-4WD models

Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) Valve
The EHCU valve is not serviceable and must never be disassembled or repaired. If tests
indicate the unit is faulty, the EHCU must be replaced.
1. Label and unplug the electrical connectors from the EHCU.
2. Label and disconnect the brake lines from the EHCU.
3. Remove the bolts holding the EHCU bracket to the vehicle. Remove the bracket
and hydraulic unit as an assembly.
4. Once removed from the vehicle, separate the bracket from the EHCU.
To install:
5. Assemble the EHCU to its bracket and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 5 ft.
lbs. (7 Nm). Overtightening these bolts can cause excessive noise during system
operation.
6. Install the assembly into the vehicle. Tighten the mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45
Nm).
7. Connect the brake lines in their original locations. Tighten the fittings to 16 ft.
lbs. (25 Nm).

8. Connect the electrical connectors. Make certain each is squarely seated and
secure.
9. Bleed the EHCU valve, then bleed the entire brake system.
Bleeding the EHCU
Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the
appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required.
Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be
bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel
circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1/4-1/2 turn before
bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is
performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not
be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false
trouble codes may be set.
1. Open the internal bleed valve 1/4-1/2 turn each.
2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on
the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is
seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the
fluid.
8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed
valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
11. Remove the 3 special tools.
12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
14. Switch the ignition ON. Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the
system.
15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel
and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire
bleeding procedure.
Front Wheel Speed Sensors
Two-wheel drive models (Except 1995-98)
1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the brake caliper.
5. Unplug the sensor wire connector.
6. Disconnect the sensor wire from the clip(s) on the upper control arm.
7. Remove the bolts holding the splash shield.

8. Remove the splash shield and sensor assembly.
To install:
10. Install a new gasket.
11. Mount the sensor and splash shield to the knuckle. Install the retaining bolts and
tighten them to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
12. Connect the wiring to the clips on the upper control arm. Check the wiring for
correct routing.
13. Connect the wiring connector.
14. Install the hub and rotor assembly.
15. Install the brake caliper.
16. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Four-wheel drive models (Except 1995-98)
3. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector.
4. Release the sensor wire from the clip(s) on the upper control arm.
5. Remove the bolts holding the sensor; remove the sensor from its mount.
6. Reassemble in reverse order. Tighten the sensor mounting bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15
Nm).
Two-wheel drive 1995-98 models (except C3HD)
5. Unplug the sensor wire connector.
6. Use a 3/16 inch drill to remove the sensor harness clip rivets.
7. Disconnect the clips from the sensor wire. Save the clips for the new sensor.
8. Remove the sensor assembly bolts and nut.
9. Remove the bolts holding the splash shield.
10. Remove the splash shield and sensor.
To install:
12. Install a new gasket.
13. Mount the sensor and splash shield to the knuckle. Install the retaining bolts and
tighten the splash shield mounting bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm). Tighten the
sensor retainers to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
14. Install the harness clips in their original position and attach them using 3/16 inch
rivets.
15. Attach the sensor wiring connector.
16. Install the hub and rotor assembly.
17. Install the brake caliper.
Four-wheel drive 1995-98 models (except C3HD)
4. Remove the rotor assembly.
5. Disconnect the sensor wiring harness from the clip on the control arm and the
clip on the frame.
The sensor mount in a bore that leads to the center of the sealed bearing. Be careful
when cleaning and working around the bore. Make sure no dirt or contaminates enters
the bore or it may damage the bearing.
6. Clean the area around the sensor thoroughly.
7. Unfasten the sensor retainer.
8. Remove the sensor by pulling it straight out. Do not use a prytool to remove the
sensor as it could break the sensor off in the bore.
9. Make sure to remove the sensor O-ring and discard it.
To install:
10. Lubricate the new sensor O-ring with wheel bearing grease, install the O-ring on
the sensor and lubricate the area just above and below the O-ring on the sensor
body with wheel bearing grease.
11. Install the sensor assembly in the bore and tighten its retaining bolt to 13 ft. lbs.
(18 Nm).
12. Attach the sensor electrical connection.
13. Route the sensor wiring harness in its original location and attach it with new
mounting clips.
14. Install the rotor and caliper.
15. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle.

1995 C3HD models
6. Unfasten the sensor bracket retainers.
7. Unfasten the sensor retainers and remove the sensor from the knuckle.
1996-98 C3HD models
5. Remove the splash shield.
6. Disconnect the sensor wire mounting clip attached to the upper king pin cap and
the mounting clip attached to the frame rail.
8. Unfasten the sensor to bracket retainers. It is not necessary to remove the bracket
unless it is damaged.
9. Remove the speed sensor.
To install:
The speed sensor on these models is adjustable by using the slots in the mounting
bracket. The sensor must be properly adjusted to obtain the correct air gap.
10. Install the sensor on the bracket and finger-tighten its retainers.
11. Place the hub and rotor assembly on a surface with the tone wheel facing up
making sure not to damage the studs.
12. Mark the position of the rotor relative to the hub so the rotor can be reinstalled
in the same position.
13. Unfasthe the bolts attaching the rotor to the hub and separate the rotor from the
hub.
14. Install the hub and tone wheel assembly onto the spindle.
15. Install the outer bearing, washer and spindle nut. Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft.
lbs. (16 Nm) while rotating the hub in either direction. Do not back off the nut.
16. Insert a flexible shim stock or equivalent between the tone wheel and the sensor.
The shim stock must be 0.050 inch (1.25mm) thick and the length and width of
the shim stock must be enough to cover the face of the sensor. If shim stock is
nit available, regular notebook or writing paper can be used as long as the
specification for thickness, length and width are strictly adhered to.
17. Press the sensor firmly against the shim stock and tone wheel.
18. Tighten the retainers as follows:
a. Left-hand lower attaching nut: 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
b. Left-hand upper attaching nut: 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
c. Right-hand upper attaching nut: 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
d. Right-hand lower attaching nut: 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
19. Remove the shim stock and make sure the sensor does not contact the tone while
when rotated.
20. Install the splash shield making sure to route wire through the opening in the
shield. Tighten the splash shield bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
21. Route the wiring harness to its original location and attach the mounting clips.
22. Install the rotor making sure to line up the reference marks made previously.
Tighten the bolts to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm).

23. Install the caliper and the wheel. Lower the vehicle.
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor

EXCEPT SUBURBAN
3. Remove the brake drum.
4. Remove the primary brake shoe.
5. Disconnect the sensor wiring at the connector.
6. Remove the sensor wire from the rear axle clips.
7. Remove the 2 bolts holding the sensor.
8. Remove the sensor by tracking the wire through the hole in the backing plate.
To install:
9. Route the wire through the hole in the backing plate and fit the sensor into
position.
10. Install the 2 bolts; tighten them to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
11. Secure the sensor wire within the rear axle clips.
12. Connect the sensor wiring to the harness connector.
13. Install the primary brake shoe.
14. Install the brake drum.
SUBURBAN WITH 4L60E
Speed sensor removal/installation tool J-38417 or its equivalent is required for this
procedure.
1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle. The speed sensor is located on the left
side of the transmission.
2. Disconnect the sensor wiring connector.
3. Remove the retaining bolt holding the sensor.
4. Using the removal tool, remove the sensor from the transmission case. Have a
pan available to catch fluid spillage.
To install:
5. Coat the O-ring on the sensor with a thin coat of transmission fluid.
6. Using the installation tool, install the sensor into the case. Tighten the mounting
bolt to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
7. Connect the sensor to the wiring harness.
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the transmission fluid level and fill to
the correct level if necessary.
SUBURBAN WITH 4L80E AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION
1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle. The speed sensor is located on the left
side of the transmission.
2. Disconnect the sensor wiring connector.
3. Remove the retaining bolt holding the sensor.
4. Remove the sensor from the transmission case. Have a pan available to catch
fluid spillage.
To install:
5. Coat the O-ring on the sensor with a thin coat of transmission fluid.
6. Install the sensor into the case. Tighten the mounting bolt to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
7. Connect the sensor to the wiring harness.
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Check the transmission fluid level and fill to
the correct level if necessary.
9. Component Testing
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Prefer to of this repair guide for VSS testing.
Wheel Speed Sensor
See Figure 1
3. Check the condition of the sensor terminals and the wiring harness terminals.
Repair as necessary.
4. Check the sensor wiring harness for an open or short circuit. Repair as
necessary.
5. Using a Digital Volt OhmMeter (DVOM) set to read resistance, probe the sensor
terminals.
6. If the resistance is not as specified in the accompanying charts, the sensor may
be defective.
7. Turn the DVOM to the A/C voltage scale and spin the wheel, there should be a
voltage reading. As the wheel speed increases, the voltage should increase. If
there is no voltage present, or the voltage does not increase with wheel speed,
check the tone wheel for defects. If the tone wheel is found to be in good
condition, replace the sensor.
Fig. 1: Wheel speed sensor temperature versus

resistance chart
Pump motor circuit
1. Check the condition of the fuse in the relay center and replace as necessary.
2. Unplug the pump motor electrical connection.
3. Check the condition of the terminals and the wiring harness terminals. Repair as
necessary.
4. Attach the electrical connection.
5. Using a Digital Volt OhmMeter (DVOM) set to read voltage, backprobe between
the black (ground) wire and red (power) wire terminals of the harness . The
voltage should be between 9-14 volts.
6. If the voltage is less than 9 volts, set the DVOM on the lowest resistance scale,
disconnect the harness and the positive and negative battery terminals. Connect
one probe to the positive battery cable and the other probe to red wire terminal.
Note the reading. Connect one probe to the negative battery cable and the other
probe to black wire terminal. Note the reading.
7. If the resistance is less than one ohm the wiring is fine and the control unit
should be replaced.
8. If the resistance is more than one ohm, clean and tighten the terminals or repair
the wiring as needed.
9. Attach all unplugged wires and recheck the voltage.
10. Clear the trouble codes and road test the vehicle. If the trouble code returns,
check the motor supply voltage again.
11. If the voltage is now between 9-14 volts and the pump is still not functioning
properly, replace the assembly.
12. If the voltage is still lower than 9 volts, there may be a problem with the EBCM
13. General
Information
15. The Kelsey Hayes four wheel anti-lock brake system is used on the 1992-98
Suburban, Jimmy, Yukon and Blazer and C/K Series trucks.
16. The 4 wheel anti-lock system is designed to reduce brake lock-up during severe
brake application. The Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) valve-located
near the master cylinder-controls the hydraulic pressure within the brake lines.
17. The control valve is made up of 2 types of valves. Each front wheel and the
combined rear wheel circuit are served by a dedicated isolation valve and a
dump valve. The isolation valves maintain pressure within their respective
circuits; the dump valves release pressure within each circuit as commanded by
the EHCU. The valves are controlled by a micro-computer within the EHCU
valve.
18. In a severe brake application, the EHCU valve will either allow pressure to
increase within the system or maintain (isolate) the pressure within the system or
release existing pressure through the dump valves into the accumulators.
19. The EHCU valve operates by receiving signals from the speed sensors, located
at each wheel, and from the brake lamp switch. The speed sensors connect
directly to the EHCU valve through a multi-pin connector.
20. The system is connected to the ANTI-LOCK warning lamp on the dashboard.
The warning lamp will illuminate for about 2 seconds every time the vehicle is
started. The warning lamp will illuminate it the computer detects a problem
within the anti-lock system during vehicle operation.
System Components
EHCU Valve
See Figure 1
The EHCU valve is mounted near or under the master cylinder and combination valve.
The valve is not serviceable and must be replaced if malfunctioning.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the Electro-Hydraulic

Control Unit (EHCU)
Front Wheel Speed Sensors
With one exception, on both 2WD and 4WD vehicles, the front wheel speed sensors are
permanently mounted to the brake rotor splash shield. With the exception of the 199298 Suburban, if the sensor fails the rotor and splash shield must be removed. On 4WD
vehicles, the hub and bearing assembly must also be removed for access.
The front wheel speed sensors on 1992-98 4WD Suburban vehicles are removable
without disassembly of the hub or brakes.
Rear Wheel Speed Sensors
Except for 1992-93 Suburban, the rear wheel speed sensors are held by 2 bolts at each
rear wheel. The brake drum and primary brake shoe must be removed for access.
The 1992-93 Suburban receives the rear wheel speed signal from the Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) buffer. The VSS is located at the left rear of the transmission. The buffer,
a unit for interpreting the electrical signal from the sensor, is located behind the
instrument cluster. The buffer, formerly known as the digital ratio adapter controller
(DRAC), is matched to the final drive and tire size of each vehicle. If the final drive or
tire size is changed, the buffer unit must be replaced to maintain accurate
speedometer/odometer readings and proper ABS function.
System Diagnosi
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Functional test-2WD models
Fig. 2: Functional test-4WD models

PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS
System diagnosis begins with the diagnostic circuit check as given in the chart. If the
chart is used correctly, it will aid in elimination of simple, non-system problems such as
blown fuses of failed bulbs. The chart will prompt the reading of codes at the proper
point in the diagnosis.
Some of the diagnostic or repair procedures refer to the performance of a Function Test.
This test is performed with the scan tool; it operates all components of the EHCU valve
and checks their function. The test cannot be performed without the scan tool.
READING CODES
Stored trouble codes are transmitted through the flashing of the amber ANTI-LOCK
dash warning lamp. The system may be put into diagnostic mode with a jumper wire,
however, the use of the TECH-1 scan tool or its equivalent is highly recommended. The
scan tool will allow performance of the specific system tests called for by the trouble
tree for each code.
On all models except 1996-98, the codes can be read without the use of a hand scanner.
To read the codes, use a jumper wire to connect terminal H on the ALDL to either body
ground or to terminal A. The terminals must be connected for a few seconds before the
code(s) will transmit. Observe the ANTI-LOCK light on the dash and count the flashes
in groups: a group of 4 flashes, a pause and a group of 3 flashes indicates Code 43.
Codes 12 and 14 are not trouble codes, but may appear with them to indicate normal
operation. Not all vehicles use Code 12 or 14.
After the trouble codes have been read, refer to the correct trouble tree for each code.
After repairs, repeat the initial diagnostic circuit check to confirm normal operation of
the system.
CLEARING CODES
Stored codes may be erased with the hand scanner if available. If not using a hand
scanner, codes may be cleared as follows:
1. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the engine.
2. Use a jumper wire to ground ALDL terminal H to terminal A for 2 seconds.
3. Remove the jumper wire for 2 seconds.
4. Repeat the grounding and un-grounding two more times. Each connection and
opening of the circuit should last 2 seconds.
5. Connect the jumper to terminals H and A for a longer time; no trouble codes
should be displayed. If codes are displayed, the system was not properly erased.
6. If no trouble codes appear, the memory has been cleared. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
7.
Trouble codes
The following is a list of the OBD-I trouble codes for the four wheel anti-lock brake
system.
Code 21: right front speed sensor or circuit open

Code 22: missing right front speed signal
Code 23: erratic right front speed signal
Code 25: left front speed sensor or circuit open
Code 26: missing left front speed signal
Code 27: erratic left front speed signal
Code 29: simultaneous drop-out of front speed sensors
Code 35: vehicle speed sensor or open circuit
Code 36: missing vehicle speed sensor signal
Code 37: erratic vehicle speed sensor signal
Code 38: wheel speed error
Codes 41 through 54: control valves
Codes 61 through 63: reset switches
Code 65 and 66: open or shorted pump motor relay
Code 67: open motor circuit or shorted BPMV output
Code 68: locked motor or shorted motor circuit
Codes 71 through 74: memory errors
Code 81: brake switch circuit shorted or open
Code 86: shorted anti-lock indicator lamp
Code 87: shorted brake warning lamp
The following is a list of the OBD-II trouble codes for the four wheel anti-lock brake
system.
Code C0021: right front wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted to battery
Code C0022: right front wheel speed sensor signal missing
Code C0023: right front wheel speed sensor signal erratic
Code C0025: left front wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted to battery
Code C0026: left front wheel speed sensor signal missing
Code C0027: left front wheel speed sensor signal erratic
Code C0029: simultaneous drop-out of front wheel speed signals
Code C0035: rear speed sensor circuit open or shorted to battery
Code C0036: rear speed signal missing
Code C0037: rear speed signal erratic
Code C0038: wheel speed signal malfunction
Code C0041: right front isolation solenoid circuit open
Code C0042: right front dump solenoid circuit open
Code C0043: right front isolation solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0044: right front dump solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0045: left front isolation solenoid circuit open
Code C0046: left front dump solenoid circuit open
Code C0047: left front isolation solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0048: left front dump solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0051: rear isolation solenoid circuit open
Code C0052: rear dump solenoid circuit open
Code C0053: rear isolation solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0054: rear dump solenoid circuit shorted
Code C0065: pump motor relay circuit open
Code C0066: pump motor relay circuit shorted
Code C0067: pump motor circuit open
Code C0068: pump motor locked or pump motor circuit shorted
Codes C0071 through C0074: EBCM internal fault
Code C0081: stoplamp switch circuit always closed or shorted
Code C0086: anti-lock indicator lamp circuit shorted to battery
Code C0087: brake warning lamp circuit shorted to battery
Brake Shoes

See Figure 1
1. Remove the drum. Refer to the procedure in this section.
2. Remove the bolts and washers.
3. Disconnect the support plate and shoe kits.
4. Remove the springs and shoe kits.
To install:
5. Connect the shoe kits to the support plate.
6. Install the springs, support plate and shoe kits.
7. Install the bolts and washers. Tighten the washers to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm).
8. Install the drum. Refer to the procedure in this section.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear shoe assembly

for the parking brake
Cables
Front Cable
DRUM BRAKES
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Front parking brake cable-C/K Series

1. Raise vehicle and support it with safety stands.
2. Remove adjusting nut from equalizer.
3. Remove retainer clip from rear portion of front cable at frame and from lever
arm.
4. Disconnect front brake cable from parking brake pedal or lever assemblies.
Remove front brake cable. On some models, it may assist installation of new
cable if a heavy cord is tied to other end of cable in order to guide new cable
through proper routing.
To install:
5. Install cable by reversing removal procedure.
6. Adjust parking brake.
DISC BRAKES
See Figure 2
1. Release the parking brake.
2. Raise the truck and support it with safety stands.
3. Remove the cotter pin and the clevis pin from the brake lever and disconnect the
clevis and lock nut from the end of the cable.
Fig. 2: Parking brake cable-rear disc brakes

4. Pull the cable and grommet out of the lower bracket. Unscrew the bracket bolt
on the frame rail.
5. Disconnect the end of the cable at the pedal lever, release the retaining fingers
and remove the cable.
6. Install the cable and check the parking brake adjustment.
Center Cable
1. Raise the vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove the adjusting nut from the equalizer.
3. Unhook the connector at each end and disengage the hooks and guides.
4. Install the new cable by reversing the removal procedure.
5. Adjust the parking brake.
6. Apply the parking brake 3 times with heavy pressure and repeat adjustment.
Rear Cable
See Figure 3
Fig. 3: Rear parking brake cable-C/K Series

1. Raise the vehicle and support it on safety stands.
2. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
3. Loosen the adjusting nut at the equalizer.
4. Disengage the rear cable at the connector.
5. Bend the retainer fingers at the backing plate.
6. Disengage the cable at the brake shoe operating lever.
7. Install the new cable.
8. Adjust the parking brake.
ADJUSTMENT
Duo-Servo Drum Brakes
The rear brakes serve a dual purpose. They are used as service brakes and as parking
brakes. To obtain proper adjustment of the parking brake, the service brakes must first
be properly adjusted as outlined earlier.
1. Apply the parking brake 4 clicks from the fully released position.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Loosen the locknut at the equalizer.
4. Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut until a moderate drag is felt when the rear
wheels are rotated forward.
5. Tighten the locknut.
6. Release the parking brake and rotate the rear wheels. No drag should be felt. If
even a light drag is felt, readjust the parking brake.
7. Lower the vehicle.
If a new parking brake cable is being installed, pre-stretch it by applying the parking
brake hard about three times before making adjustments.
Leading/Trailing Drum Brakes
See Figures 4 and 5

1. Raise the rear of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels
and brake drum.
2. Measure the brake drum inside diameter.
3. Turn the adjuster nut until the brake shoe maximum diameter is 0.01-0.02 in.
(0.25-50mm) less than the brake drum diameter.
Fig. 4: Parking brake adjusting screw-C/K Series
Fig. 5: Left side parking brake assembly-C/K

Series
4. Make sure that the stops on the parking brake levers are against the edge of the
brake shoe web. If the cable is holding the stops off the edge, loosen the
adjustment.
5. Tighten the cable at the adjuster nut until the lever stops begin to move off the
shoe webs.
6. Loosen the adjustment nut until the lever stops are just touching the shoe webs.
There should be no more than 0.019 inch (0.5mm) clearance between the stops
and the webs.
7. Install the drums and wheels.
8. Pump the brake pedal 30-35 times with normal force. Pause about 1 second
between each stroke.
9. Depress the parking brake pedal 6 clicks. The wheels should be locked.
10. Release the parking brake. The wheels should rotate freely.
Disc Brakes
See Figure 6
Fig. 6: Adjusting the parking brake on models

with rear discs
1. Locate the parking brake drum assembly. Its at the back of the transmission
extension housing. Remove the clevis pin from the parking brake lever.
2. Set the parking brake pedal to 4 clicks.
3. Connect a tension gauge to the frame of the truck with a small length of cable
and a turn buckle.
4. Connect the tension gauge to the bottom of the parking brake lever and tighten it
to 50 lbs. (222N).
5. Loosen the clevis lock nut and turn the clevis until the pin slides freely in the
lever. There should be no slack in the cable.

6. Install the clevis pin and a new cotter pin. Tighten the lock nut to 27 ft. lbs. (37
Nm).
7. Remove the gauge and release the parking brake.
8. Parking Brake Drum

See Figures 1 and 2
This applies to rear disc brakes only.
1. Release the parking brake. Raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
2. Disconnect the driveshaft at the brake drum.
3. Remove the nut or bolt and pull off the drum/yoke assembly.
4. Remove the bolts and pull the drum off the yoke.
To install:
5. Position the drum on the yoke and tighten the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
Fig. 1: Removing the parking brake drum on

models with rear discs
Fig. 2: Removing the drum and yoke assembly

6. Slide the drum/yoke assembly on and tighten the bolt to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm), or
the nut to 180 ft. lbs. (255 Nm) on all but 1996-98 models. On 1996-98 models
tighten the bolt to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), or the nut to 350 ft. lbs. (475 Nm)
7. Install the driveshaft and lower the truck.
8. Bleeding the ABS System

The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the
system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the
diaphragm.
2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically
during the bleeding process, and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the
master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot
of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are
unscrewed.
4. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert
the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the
end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is
to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right
rear, left rear, right front, left front.
5. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip,
tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
6. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual
vacuum.
7. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the
bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder
screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are
visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast
will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
8. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master
cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not
the stuff bled from the system.
9. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its
cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
10. Perform 3 function tests with the TECH 1 scan tool. The brake pedal must be
firmly applied.
11. On models with rear wheel ABS:
a. Refill the jar with clean brake fluid and attach the bleed hose to the bleed
valve on the Isolation/Dump valve.
b. Have your assistant slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it. Loosen
the bleed valve and expel the air. Tighten the valve and slowly release
the pedal.
c. Wait 15 seconds and repeat this procedure. Repeat bleeding the
Isolation/Dump valve until all the air is expelled.
12. On models with 4 wheel ABS, repeat Steps 1-9.
Suspencion
Stabilizer Bar
R-Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Stabilizer bar mounting-R-Series

3. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-frame clamps.
4. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm clamps.
5. Remove the stabilizer bar and bushings.
6. Check the bushings for wear or splitting. Replace any damaged bushings.
7. When installing, note that the split in the bushing faces forward. Coat the
bushings with silicone grease prior to installation. Install all fasteners fingertight. When all the fasteners are in place, tighten all of them to 24 ft. lbs. (32
Nm).
C-Series
See Figure 2
On C-series vehicles, the end link bushings, bolts and spacers are not interchangeable
from left to right, so keep them separate.
Fig. 2: Installing the stabilizer bar-C-Series

2. Remove the nuts from the end link bolts.
3. Remove the bolts, bushings and spacers.
4. Remove the bracket bolts and remove the stabilizer bar.
5. Inspect the bushings for wear or damage. Replace them as necessary.
To install:
6. Install the bar, coating the bushings with silicone grease prior to assembly. The
slit in the bushings faces the front of the truck.
7. Tighten the frame bracket bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) and the end link nuts to 13
ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
8. Coil Spring
CAUTION
Coil springs are under considerable tension. Be very careful when removing and
installing them; they can exert enough force to cause serious injury. Always use spring
compressors or a safety chain when removing a coil spring or releasing spring tension!
R-Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Removing the coil spring-R-Series

1. Raise and support the truck under the frame rails. The control arms should hang
freely.
3. Disconnect the shock absorber at the lower end and move it aside.
4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
5. Support the lower control arm with a jack and install a spring compressor on the
spring, or chain the spring to the control arm as a safety precaution.
On trucks with an air cylinder inside the spring, remove the valve core from the cylinder
and expel the air by compressing the cylinder with a prybar. With the cylinder
compressed, replace the valve core so that the cylinder will stay in the compressed
position. Push the cylinder as far as possible towards the top of the spring.
6. Raise the jack to remove the tension from the lower control arm cross-shaft and
remove the two U-bolts securing the cross-shaft to the crossmember.
CAUTION
The cross-shaft and lower control arm keeps the coil spring compressed. Use care when
you lower the assembly.
7. Slowly release the jack and lower the control arm until the spring can be
removed. Be sure that all compression is relieved from the spring.
8. If the spring was chained, remove the chain and spring. If you used spring
compressors, remove the spring and slowly release the compressors.
9. Remove the air cylinder, if so equipped.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
10. Install the air cylinder so that the protector plate is towards the upper control
arm. The schrader valve should protrude through the hole in the lower control
arm.
11. Tighten the two U-bolts securing the cross-shaft to the crossmember to 85 ft. lbs.
(115 Nm).
12. Tighten the stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm nuts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
13. Tighten the shock absorber bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
14. If equipped with air cylinders, inflate the cylinder to 60 psi (413 kPa).
15. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels, reduce the air
cylinder pressure to 50 psi (344 kPa). Have the alignment checked.
C-Series
See Figures 2 and 3
1. Raise and support the truck under the frame rails. The control arms should hang
freely.
3. Remove the shock absorber.
4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
5. Support the lower control arm and install a spring compressor on the spring, or
chain the spring to the control arm as a safety precaution.
Fig. 2: Cradling the lower control arm-C-Series
Fig. 3: Coil spring positioning-C-Series

6. Raise the jack to remove the tension from the lower control arm pivot bolts.
Remove the rear, then the front pivot bolts.
CAUTION
The lower control arm keeps the coil spring compressed. Use care when you lower the
assembly.
7. Slowly release the jack and lower the control arm until the spring can be
removed. Be sure that all compression is relieved from the spring.
8. Place a piece of tape on one of the lower coil so you can tell the top from the
bottom during installation. If the spring was chained, remove the chain and
spring. If you used spring compressors, remove the spring and slowly release the
compressors.
To install:
9. Install the chain and spring. If you used spring compressors, install the spring
and compressors.
Make sure that the insulator is in place.
Make sure that the tape is at the lower end. New springs will have an
identifying tape.
Make sure that the gripper notch on the top coil is in the frame bracket.
Make sure that on drain hole in the lower arm is covered by the bottom
coil and the other is open.
10. Install the pivot shaft bolts, front one first. The bolts must be installed with the
heads towards the front of the truck! Remove the safety chain or spring
compressors.
Do not tighten the bolts while the vehicle is raised. The bolts must be torqued with the
truck at its proper ride height.
11. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
a. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
b. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
c. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of
the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
d. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle
and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.

e. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the
procedure 2 or 3 more times.
f. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
g. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance
should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
h. If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 96 ft. lbs.
(130 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 121 ft. lbs. (165 Nm) on 1991-95 models
and 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
i. If the figure is not correct, tighten the bolts to specification and have the
front end alignment corrected.
12.
Front Hub, Rotor and Bearings

3. Dismount the caliper and wire it out of the way.
4. Pry out the grease cap, remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer.
5. Remove the hub. Do not drop the wheel bearings.
6. Remove the outer roller bearing assembly from the hub. The inner bearing
assembly will remain in the hub and may be removed after prying out the inner
seal. Discard the seal.
7. Using a hammer and drift, remove the bearing races from the hub. They are
driven out from the inside out.
To install:
8. Clean all parts in a non-flammable solvent and let them air dry. Never spin-dry a
bearing with compressed air! Check for excessive wear and damage.
9. When installing new races, make sure that they are not cocked and that they are
fully seated against the hub shoulder.
10. Pack both wheel bearings using high melting point wheel bearing grease for disc
brakes. Ordinary grease will melt and ooze out ruining the pads. Bearings should
be packed using a cone-type wheel bearing greaser tool. If one is not available
they may be packed by hand. Place a healthy glob of grease in the palm of one
hand and force the edge of the bearing into it so that the grease fills the bearing.
Do this until the whole bearing is packed.
11. Place the inner bearing in the hub and install a new inner seal, making sure that
the seal flange faces the bearing race.
12. Carefully install the wheel hub over the spindle.
13. Using your hands, firmly press the outer bearing into the hub. Install the spindle
washer and nut.
14. Spin the wheel hub by hand and tighten the nut until it is just snug-12 ft. lbs. (16
Nm). Back off the nut until it is loose, then tighten it finger tight. Loosen the nut
until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut and insert a new
cotter pin. There should be 0.0012-0.005 in. (0.03-0.13mm) end-play on R-series
and 0.001-0.008 in. (0.025-0.200mm) end-play on C-series. This can be
measured with a dial indicator, if you wish.
15. Replace the dust cap, wheel and tire.
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the hub, knuckle and

bearings-C-Series
Lower Ball Joint

INSPECTION
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Measure the distance between the tip of

the lower ball joint stud and the grease fitting below the ball joint as shown
1. Support the weight of the control arm at the wheel hub.
2. Measure the distance between the tip of the ball joint stud and the grease fitting
below the ball joint.
3. Move the support to the control arm and allow the hub to hang free. Measure the
distance again. If the variation between the two measurements exceeds 3/32in.
(2.4mm) the ball joint should be replaced.
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.
Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a

suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar
Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the

lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series
Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and CSeries

5. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to
remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
6. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
7. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
8. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the
upper arm with a block of wood.
9. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another
suitable tool.
To install:
10. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the
bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
11. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing
tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face
inboard.
12. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control
arm.
13. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
14. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it
to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94
models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align
the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to
align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
15. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm),
plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed
130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
16. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
17.
Lower Control Arm Pivot Shaft and
Bushings-R-Series
10/1500 Series
See Figures 1 and 2
The following special tools, or their equivalents, are necessary for this procedure: J22717, J-24435-7, J-24435-3, J-24435-2, J-24435-6, J-24435-4.
1. Remove the lower control arm as explained earlier in this Section.
Fig. 1: Removing the lower control arm bushing

(10/1500)-R-Series
Fig. 2: Centering the lower control arm shaft

(20/2500, 30/3500)-R-Series
2. Remove the pivot shaft nuts and washers.
3. Place the control arm in a press and press on the front end of the pivot shaft to
remove the rear bushing.
4. Remove the pivot shaft.
5. Remove the front bushing stakes with tool J-22717, or equivalent.
6. Assemble tool J-24435-7. J-24435-3, J-24435-2 and J-24435-6 on the control
arm. Tighten the tool until the bushing is forced out.
To install:
7. Position the new front bushing in the arm and assemble tools J-24435-6, J24435-4 and J-24435-7. Force the bushing into place until it is fully seated. The
outer tube hole must be lined up so that it faces the front, towards the staked
bushing.
8. Stake the bushing in at least 2 places.
9. Install the pivot shaft.
10. Install the rear bushing.
11. Install the washers and pivot shaft nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (94 Nm).
12. Install the lower control arm.

20/2500 and 30/3500 Series
1. Remove the lower control arm.
2. Remove the grease fittings and unscrew the bushings.
3. Slide out the pivot shaft.
4. Discard the old seals.
To install:
5. Install new seals on the pivot shaft.
6. Slide the shaft into the arm.
7. Start the bushings into the arm and center the shaft in the bushings. Hand tighten
the bushings to make sure the shaft doesn't bind.
8. Tighten the bushings to 280 ft. lbs. (380 Nm).
9. Check the pivot shaft for free rotation.

10. Install the grease fittings and lubricate the bushings.
11. Install the lower arm.
12.
Lower Control Arm and Bushing-C-Series

See Figure 1
1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
Fig. 1: Installing the lower control arm-C-Series

2. Remove the coil spring.
3. Support the inboard end of the control arm after spring removal.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball stud and loosen the nut.
5. Loosen the lower ball stud in the steering knuckle using a ball joint stud removal
tool. When the stud is loose, remove the nut from the stud. It may be necessary
to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
To install:
7. Slowly raise the jack and lower the control arm. Guide the control arm into place
with a prybar.
8. Install the pivot shaft bolts, front one first. The bolts must be installed with the
heads towards the front of the truck! Remove the safety chain or spring
compressors.
Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride
height.
9. Remove the jack.
10. Connect the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm.
11. Install the shock absorber.


(130 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 121 ft. lbs. (165 Nm) on 1991-94 models;
137 ft. lbs. (101 Nm) on 1995-98 models.
i.
14.
If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm)
on 1988-90 models; 121 ft. lbs. (165 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 101 ft.
lbs. (137 Nm) on 1996-98 models. Have the front end alignment
corrected.
Lower Control Arm-R-Series

See Figure 1
2. Remove the spring.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lower control armR-Series

3. Support the inboard end of the control arm after spring removal.
tool. When the stud is loose, remove the nut from the stud. It may be necessary
to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the U-bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
Shock Absorbers
R-Series
2. Remove the lower end nut, bolt and washer. Separate the shock absorber from
the lower control arm.
3. Remove the upper end nut and washer.
4. Remove the shock absorber.
5. When installing the shock, tighten the upper end nut to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) and
the lower end bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
C-Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the shock absorber-C-Series

3. Hold the stem with a wrench and back off the shock absorber upper nut.
4. Remove the nut, retainer and upper grommet.
5. Remove the lower mounting bolts and pull the shock absorber out through the
lower control arm.
6. If the shock absorber is being reused, check the grommets for wear and damage.
Replace them as needed.
To install:
7. Install the shock absorber onto the vehicle.
8. Tighten the upper nut to 100 inch. lbs. (11 Nm) and the lower mounting bolts to
20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
TESTING
See Figure 2
The purpose of the shock absorber is simply to limit the motion of the spring during
compression and rebound cycles. If the vehicle is not equipped with these motion
dampers, the up and down motion would multiply until the vehicle was alternately
trying to leap off the ground and to pound itself into the pavement.
Contrary to popular rumor, the shocks do not affect the ride height of the vehicle. This is
controlled by other suspension components such as springs and tires. Worn shock
absorbers can affect handling; if the front of the vehicle is rising or falling excessively,
the "footprint" of the tires changes on the pavement and steering is affected.
The simplest test of the shock absorber is simply push down on one corner of the
unladen vehicle and release it. Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most
cases, it will come up beyond it original rest position, dip back below it and settle
quickly to rest. This shows that the damper is controlling the spring action. Any
tendency to excessive pitch (up-and-down) motion or failure to return to rest within 2-3
cycles is a sign of poor function within the shock absorber. Oil-filled shocks may have a
light film of oil around the seal, resulting from normal breathing and air exchange. This
should NOT be taken as a sign of failure, but any sign of thick or running oil definitely
indicates failure. Gas filled shocks may also show some film at the shaft; if the gas has
leaked out, the shock will have almost no resistance to motion.
Fig. 2: When fluid is seeping out of the shock

absorber, it's time to replace the shock
While each shock absorber can be replaced individually, it is recommended that they be
changed as a pair (both front or both rear) to maintain equal response on both sides of
the vehicle. Chances are quite good that if one has failed, its mate is weak also.
Stabilizer Bar
R-Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Stabilizer bar mounting-R-Series

4. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm clamps.
bushings with silicone grease prior to installation. Install all fasteners fingertight. When all the fasteners are in place, tighten all of them to 24 ft. lbs. (32
Nm).
C-Series
See Figure 2
On C-series vehicles, the end link bushings, bolts and spacers are not interchangeable
from left to right, so keep them separate.
Fig. 2: Installing the stabilizer bar-C-Series

2. Remove the nuts from the end link bolts.
3. Remove the bolts, bushings and spacers.
4. Remove the bracket bolts and remove the stabilizer bar.
5. Inspect the bushings for wear or damage. Replace them as necessary.
To install:
6. Install the bar, coating the bushings with silicone grease prior to assembly. The
slit in the bushings faces the front of the truck.
7. Tighten the frame bracket bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) and the end link nuts to 13
ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
8. Steering Knuckle
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering knuckle

and components-R-Series
3. Dismount the caliper and suspend it out of the way without disconnecting the
brake lines.
4. Remove the hub/rotor assembly.
5. Unbolt the splash shield and discard the old gasket.
6. Using a ball joint separator, disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle.
7. Position a floor jack under the lower control arm, near the spring seat. Raise the
jack until it just takes up the weight of the suspension, compressing the spring.
Safety-chain the coil spring to the lower arm.
8. Remove the upper and lower ball joint nut.
9. Using tool J-23742, or equivalent, break loose the upper ball joint from the
knuckle.
10. Raise the upper control arm just enough to disconnect the ball joint.
11. Using the afore-mentioned tool, break loose the lower ball joint.
12. Lift the knuckle off of the lower ball joint.
13. Inspect and clean the ball stud bores in the knuckle. Make sure that there are no
cracks or burrs. If the knuckle is damaged in any way, replace it.
14. Check the spindle for wear, heat discoloration or damage. If at all damaged,
replace it.
To install:
15. Maneuver the knuckle onto both ball joints and tighten the nuts to specifications.
16. Install a new splash shield gasket and tighten the shield bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14
Nm) on R-series vehicles. On C-series vehicles, tighten the bolts to 12 ft. lbs.
(16 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) on 1991-98 models.
Fig. 2: Locating the seal on the yoke-C-Series
Upper Ball Joint

INSPECTION
1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands so that the control arms hang
freely.
3. The upper ball joint is spring-loaded. Replace the ball joint if there is any lateral
movement, if it can be twisted in its socket with your fingers or the seals are cut
and torn.
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Use an appropriate tool to separate the

upper ball joint from the steering knuckle-C and R-Series
Fig. 2: Installing the upper ball joint-C and RSeries

1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove
the stud nut.
4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering
knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be
necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1/8in. drill bit. Remove the ball
joint assembly.
6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1/8in. drill bit to start a pilot hole.
Drill out the rivets with a 1/2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a
screw-type forcing tool.
To install:
7. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
8. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:
/2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the
cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off
to align the pin.
/4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary
to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never
back off the nut to align the pin.
9. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:
1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25
Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series.
1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
10. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90
models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on
1996-98 models.
11. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
12.
Upper Control Arm Pivot Shaft and
Bushings-R-Series
10/1500 Series
See Figure 1
The following special tools, or their equivalents, are necessary for this procedure: J24435-1, J-24435-3, J-24435-4, J-24435-5 and J-24435-7.
1. Remove the upper control arm as explained earlier in this Section.
Fig. 1: Centering the upper control arm shaft

(20/2500, 30/3500)-R-Series
2. Remove the pivot shaft nuts and washers.
3. Assemble tool J-24435-1. J-24435-3, and J-24435-7 on the control arm. Tighten
the tool until the front bushing is forced out.
4. Remove the pivot shaft.
5. Use the forcing procedure to remove the rear bushing.
To install:
6. Position the new front bushing in the arm and assemble tools J-24435-4, J24435-5 and J-24435-7. Force the bushing into place until it is fully seated.
7. Install the pivot shaft.
8. Repeat the forcing procedure to install the rear bushing.
9. Install the lower control arm.
10. Install the nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts to 115 ft. lbs. (156 Nm).
11. Install the control arm.
20/2500 and 30/3500 Series

2. Take up the weight of the suspension with a floor jack positioned under the
lower control arm as near to the ball joint as possible.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the pivot shaft-to-frame nuts.
4. Tape together and matchmark each shim pack's position for exact installation.
5. Install a chain over the control arm, inboard of the stabilizer bar and outboard of
the shock absorber to hold the control arm close to the crossmember.
6. Remove the pivot shaft nuts, bolts and spacers.
7. Remove the grease fittings and unscrew the bushings from the control arm.
8. Remove the pivot shaft. Discard the seals.
To install:
9. Install new seals on the pivot shaft.
10. Slide the shaft into the arm.
11. Start the bushings into the arm and center the shaft in the bushings. Hand tighten
the bushings to make sure the shaft doesn't bind.
12. Tighten the bushings to 190 ft. lbs. (257 Nm).
13. Check the pivot shaft for free rotation.

14. Install the grease fittings and lubricate the bushings.
15. Position the control arm on the frame and install the shim packs, spacers, nuts
and bolts. Tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm). Have the alignment checked.
16.
Upper Control Arm and Bushings-C-Series

See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm-C-Series

4. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).

5. Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud
nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35
Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place.
To install:
11. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both
bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger
tighten for now.
height.
12. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.

(120 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991-98 models.
i. If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
on 1988-90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991-98 models and have
the front end alignment corrected.
14.
Upper Control Arm-R-Series

See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the upper control armR-Series

6. Loosen the upper control arm ball stud in the steering knuckle using a ball joint
stud removal tool. Remove the nut from the ball stud and raise the upper arm to
clear the steering knuckle. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and
wire it to the frame to gain clearance. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the
brake hose.
7. Remove the nuts securing the control arm shaft studs to the crossmember
bracket and remove the control arm.
8. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly.
To install:
9. Place the control arm in position and install the nuts. Before tightening the nuts,
insert the caster and camber shims in the same order as when installed.
10. Tighten the nuts securing the control arm shaft studs-to-crossmember bracket to
70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) for 10/1500 and 20/2500 series; 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm) for
30/3500 series.
11. Tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) for 10/1500 series and 20/2500
series; 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) for 30/3500 series. Install the cotter pin. Never back
off the nut to install the cotter pin. Always advance it.
12.
Leaf Spring
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Raise the truck and support the axle with safety stands. Remove the tire.
2. Disconnect the lower shock absorber mount at the axle.

3. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the bar. Remove the nut, washer and
insulator and pull the link from the axle-don't lose the other insulator and
retainer.
Fig. 1: Leaf spring mounting-C3HD suspension
Fig. 2: Tighten the stabilizer link to this

dimension-C3HD suspension
4. Remove the nuts and washers and lift out the U-bolts and spacer. Disconnect the
spring from the axle.
5. Disconnect and separate the spring from the rear shackle and the front hanger.
Remove the spring.
To install:
6. Installation is the reverse of removal, but please note the following important
steps.
7. Position the spring so it lines up with the shackle and the hanger. The double
wrap end should face forward.
8. Tighten the hanger and shackle bolts to 92 ft. lbs. (125 Nm) on 1988-95 models
and 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
9. Position the spring spacer so that the aligning pin contacts the edge of the spring
and tighten the U-bolt nuts, diagonally to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Retighten the nuts
to 80 ft. lbs. (109 Nm) on 1988-95 models and 92 ft. lbs. (125 Nm) on 1996-98
models.
10. Attach the retainer and insulator and then insert the stabilizer link into the proper
hole in the axle. Tighten the nut until the distance between each retainer is
38mm (11/2 in.).
11. Tighten the stabilizer link-to-bar nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
12. Install the shock to the axle and tighten the lower mounting nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50
Nm).
13. Shock
Absorber

See Figure 1
1. Raise the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the lower mounting nut and washer and disconnect the shock from the
axle.
Fig. 1: Shock absorber mounting-C3HD

suspension
3. Remove the upper mount nut and washer, pull out the bolt and remove the
shock.
4. Install the shock and tighten the upper mount to 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm) and the
lower nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
TESTING
Refer to the shock absorber testing procedure in the R/C series front suspension portion
of the section.
Stabilizer Bar
See Figure 1
1. Raise the truck and support the axle with safety stands. Remove the tire.
2. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the bar.
Fig. 1: Stabilizer bar and components-C3HD

3. Remove the clamp bolts and disconnect the bar from the axle.
4. Remove the insulator from the bar.
5. Remove the nut, retainer and insulator and then pull the link from the frame
bracket. An additional insulator and retainer will come off with it.
To install:
6. Slide a retainer and insulator onto the link and insert it into the proper hole in the
frame bracket.
7. Install the other insulator and retainer and then tighten the nut until the distance
between each retainer is 11/2 in. (38mm)
8. Connect the bar to the front axle.
9. Slide the insulators onto the bar, install the clamps and bolts and tighten them to
21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

10. Connect the bar to the link and tighten the nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
11. Install the wheel and lower the truck.
12.
Steering Arm, Knuckle and Spindle

See Figure 1
1. Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the
wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper and hub/rotor assembly.
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and remove the anchor plate and splash shield. Press
out the steering rod and let it hang by the rods. Unfasten the bolts attaching the
anchor plate to the splash shield and separate the steering arm from the tie rod
and Pitman arm.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the suspension systemC3HD

4. Remove the brake hose bracket.
5. Remove the gaskets. Remove the caps from the knuckle.
6. Remove the nut, washer and lock pin and then drive the king pin out of the
knuckle with a drift. Collect the spacers and bushings.

7. Disconnect the knuckle from the axle.
8. Remove the dust seal, shim and thrust bearing.
To install:
9. Install new bushings and ream them to 1.1804-1.1820 in. (29.982-30.022mm).
10. Install the knuckle to the axle and install the thrust bearing, shim and dust seal.
Lubricate the king pin and install it with the spacers in the order in which they
came out. Install the washer, nut and lock pin. Tighten the nut to 29 ft. lbs. (40
Nm).
11. Install the gaskets, caps and brake line bracket. Tighten the mounting bolts to 60
inch. lbs. (7 Nm).

12. Connect the steering arm and install the splash shield and anchor plate. Tighten
the bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) and the nuts to 230 ft. lbs. (312 Nm).
13. Install the hub assembly and adjust the wheel bearings. Install the caliper and
wheels and then lower the truck. Check the alignment.
14.
Wheel Alignment
15. If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the
handling seems uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be

checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire
inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering
components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged
components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly
aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves
minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a
trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop.
16. Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most
vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply
to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front suspension is adjustable.
17. CASTER
18. See Figure 1
19. Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather
than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at
the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line
between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back,
this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the
wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster
makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one
side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will
raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the
caster becomes more positive.
Fig. 1: Caster affects straight-line

stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example, employ positive
caster
21. CAMBER
22. See Figure 2
20.
23. Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the
top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber;
if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber
helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative
camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque
steer.
Fig. 2: Camber influences tire contact
24.
with the road

25. TOE
26. See Figure 3
27. Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance
between the front of the wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the
wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have
negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and
provides a smoother ride on the highway.
28.
Fig. 3: With toe-in, the distance between

the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear
29.
Wheel Hub/Rotor and Bearing

4. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut and washer.
5. Remove the hub/rotor and outer bearing. Do not drop the wheel bearings. The
inner bearing assembly will remain in the hub and may be removed after prying
out the inner seal. Discard the seal.
To install:
8. Apply a thin film of grease to the spindle at the outer wheel bearing seat and at
the inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat.
9. Apply a small amount of grease inboard of each wheel bearing cup, inside the
rotor/ hub assembly.
fully seated against the hub shoulder. Use a press and a 3 inch (76mm) diameter
bar to install the inner race and outer race into position. If the bar diameter is
bigger than 3 inch (76mm), it may damage the seal seat.
12. Lubricate the seal lip with a small amount of grease, then place the inner bearing
in the hub and install a new inner seal. Use a flat plate to install the seal so it is
flush with the hub/rotor flange.
13. Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor assembly.
14. Using your hands, firmly press the outer bearing into the hub. Install the
adjusting nut.
15. Spin the wheel hub by hand and tighten the nut until it is just snug-12 ft. lbs. (16
Nm). Back off the nut one full flat. If the hole in the spindle lines up with the
slot in the nut, insert the cotter pin. If they do not line up, back off the nut until
they do, but not more than one additional flat and install the cotter pin. There
should be 0.0005-0.008 in. (0.013-0.20mm) end-play. This can be measured with
a dial indicator, if you wish.
16. Replace the dust cap, caliper, wheel and tire.
17.
Lower Ball Joint

Rivet/Bolted Type
Special tool J-36202, or its equivalent, is necessary for this procedure.

Fig. 1: Remove the tie rod end nut
Fig. 2: Disconnect the tie rod end from the

steering knuckle using a ball joint separator
3. Remove the splash shield from the knuckle.
4. Disconnect the inner tie rod end from the relay rod using a ball joint separator.
5. Remove the axle shaft.
6. Remove the caliper assembly and wire it out of the way.
7. Remove the cotter pin and the nut from the lower control arm ball joint.
8. Seperate the lower control arm from the knuckle and remove the knuckle from
the vehicle.
9. Using a 1/8in. drill bit, drill a pilot hole through each ball joint rivet.
10. Drill out the rivets with a 1/2 in. drill bit. Punch out any remaining rivet material.
11. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball stud.
13. Matchmark both torsion bar adjustment bolt positions. This will aid in
installation.
14. Using tool J-36202, increase the tension on the adjusting arm.
15. Remove the adjustment bolt and retaining plate.

16. Move the tool aside.
17. Slide the torsion bars forward.
18. Using a screw-type forcing tool, separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
To install:
steps.
Service replacement ball joints come with nuts and bolts to replace the rivets.
20. Install the bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
The bolts are inserted from the bottom.

21. Start the ball stud into the knuckle. Make sure it is squarely seated. Install the
ball stud nut and pull the ball stud into the knuckle with the nut. Don't finaltorque the nut yet.
22. Using tool J-36202, increase tension on both torsion bars.
23. Install the adjustment retainer plate and bolt on both torsion bars.
24. Set the adjustment bolt to the marked position.
25. Release the tension on the torsion bar until the load is taken up by the
adjustment bolt and remove the tool.
26. Connect the inner tie rod end at the steering relay rod. Tighten the nut to 35 ft.
lbs. (47 Nm).
Fig. 3: Installing the lower ball joint-K-Series

28. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels perform the Z
height adjustment procedure in this section.
29. Tighten the ball stud nut to 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm).
Pressed-in Type
See Figures 4 and 5
2. Remove the wheel assembly.

3. Support the control arm with a floor jack.
4. Remove the halfshaft (drive axle).
5. Remove the caliper assembly and wire it out of the way.
6. Remove the cotter pin and the nut from the lower control arm ball joint.
7. Use a suitable tool to separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
8. Seperate the lower control arm from the knuckle and remove the knuckle from
the vehicle.
9. Using the tools (or their equivalents) shown in the accompanying illustration,
remove the ball joint.
Fig. 4: Removing the lower ball joint-pressed-in

type
To install:
steps.
11. Apply a 1/4 inch (6mm) bead of Loctite 680 evenly to the serration's on the ball
joint prior to installation.
12. When installing the ball joint, make sure the grease fitting is facing forward and
press the ball joint into the control arm using the tools (or their equivalents)
shown in the accompanying illustration.
13. Tighten the ball joint stud nut to 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1995 models and 94 ft.
lbs. (128 Nm) on 1996-98 models. Install a new cotter pin.
Fig. 5: Installing the lower ball joint-pressed-in

type
Lower Control Arm and Bushing

Special tools J-36202, J-36618-1, J-36618-2, J-36618-3, J-36618-4, J-36618-5, and J9519-23, or their equivalents, are necessary for this procedure.
Fig. 1: Disconnect the tie rod end from the

steering knuckle
Fig. 2: Matchmark the torsion bar adjustment

bolt positions
3. Matchmark the both torsion bar adjustment bolt positions.
8. Remove the adjusting arm.
9. If equipped, remove the splash shield from the knuckle.
10. Remove the hub nut and washer. Insert a long drift or dowel through the vanes
in the brake rotor to hold the rotor in place.
11. Using a puller, force the outer end of the axle shaft out of the hub. Remove the
shaft.
12. Remove the brake caliper and wire it out of the way. Remove the rotor.
13. Disconnect the shock absorber from control arm and compress the shock
absorber.
14. Disconnect the inner tie rod end from the relay rod.
16. If necessary, disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm.
tool. When the stud is loose, remove the nut from the stud.
19. Remove the control arm-to-frame bracket bolts, nuts and washers.
20. Remove the lower control arm and torsion bar as a unit.
21. Separate the control arm and torsion bar.
22. On 15 and 25 Series, the bushings are not replaceable. If they are damaged, the
control arm will have to be replaced. On 35 Series, proceed as follows:

a. FRONT BUSHING: Unbend the crimps with a punch. Force out the
bushings with tools J-36618-2, J-9519-23, J-36618-4 and 36618-1.
b. REAR BUSHING: Force out the bushings with tools J-36618-5, J-9519-
23, J-36618-3 and J-36618-2. There are no crimps.

To install:
23. Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important
steps.
24. On 35 Series, install a new front bushings, then a new rear bushing using the
removal tools.
25. Raise the control arm assembly into position. Insert the front leg of the control
arm into the crossmember first, then the rear leg into the frame bracket.
26. Install the bolts, front one first. The bolts must be installed with the front bolt
head heads towards the front of the truck and the rear bolt head towards the rear
of the truck!
height.
27. Start the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to specification.
28. Install the adjuster arm.
adjustment bolt.
35. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 135 ft. lbs.
(185 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 121
ft. lbs. (165 Nm) on 1996-98 models. If the adjustment is not correct, tighten the
pivot bolts to specification and have the alignment checked.
Fig. 3: Installing the lower control arm-K-Series
Shock Absorbers
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Remove the shock absorber lower end

bolt, nut and washer
Fig. 2: Remove the shock absorber and inspect

the rubber bushings
2. Remove the upper end bolt, nut and washer.
3. Remove the lower end bolt, nut and washer.
4. Remove the shock absorber and inspect the rubber bushings. If these are
defective, replace the shock absorber assembly.
To install:
5. Install the shock and tighten both nuts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1988-90 models;
66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm) on 1991-98 models. Make sure that the bolts are inserted in
the proper direction. The bolt head on the upper end should be forward; the
bottom end bolt head is rearward.
TESTING
of the section.
Stabilizer Bar
Fig. 1: Remove the stabilizer bar-to-frame

clamps
Fig. 2: Remove the stabilizer bar-to-lower

control arm bolts, nut/grommet assemblies and spacers
Fig. 3: Remove the stabilizer bar and bushings

4. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm bolts, nut/grommet assemblies
and spacers.
The bolts, spacers and nuts are not interchangeable from side-to-side. Keep them
separated.
To install:
steps.
8. Matchmark the both torsion bar adjustment bolt positions.
13. Coat the stabilizer bar bushings with silicone grease and install them on the
stabilizer bar. Note, the split in the bushing faces forward.

14. When all fasteners are installed, tighten the frame clamp bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33
Nm); the end link bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

adjustment bolt.
Fig. 4: Installing the stabilizer bar-K-Series
Steering Knuckle and Seal

See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Removing the brake disc-K-Series

3. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way.
4. Remove the brake disc.
5. If necessary, remove the left stabilizer bar clamp.
6. If necessary, remove the left stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower
control arm.
7. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle or steering relay rod.
8. Remove the hub nut and washer.
9. Using a puller, force the outer end of the drive axle out of the hub. Remove the
hub/bearing assembly.
10. Remove the drive axle.
12. Unbolt and remove the splash shield.
13. Remove the upper and lower ball joint nuts and cotter pins. Using a screw-type
forcing tool, separate the upper, then the lower, ball joint from the knuckle.
14. Remove the knuckle and old seal.
To install:
steps.
16. Drive a new seal into the knuckle using installer tool J-36605 or its equivalent.
17. Attach the ball joints to the knuckle and tighten to specifications.
18. Tighten the splash shield bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 19 ft.
lbs. (26 Nm) on 1991-98 models.

19. Position the axle shaft and install the flange bolts. Tighten them to 59 ft. lbs. (79
Nm).
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the hub, knuckle and

bearing-K-Series
ADJUSTMENT
Z Height
1. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels perform the
following height adjustment procedure.
2. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
3. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
4. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the
control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
5. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the
line on the control arm. Record the figure.

6. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the
7. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
8. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be:
K15/25 without F60 option: 151-163mm
K15/25 with F60 option: 177-190mm
K35 without F60 option: 139-151mm
K35 with F60 option: 167-179mm
9. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to
specification. If the adjustment is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to
specification and have the alignment checked.
10.
Torsion Bars and Support Assembly

Fig. 1: Matchmark both torsion bar adjustment

bolt positions
Fig. 2: Increase the tension on the adjusting arm

4. Matchmark both torsion bar adjustment bolt positions.
9. Remove the adjusting arms.
10. Remove the nuts and bolts from the torsion bar support crossmember and slide
the support crossmember rearwards.
11. Matchmark the position of the torsion bars and note the markings on the front
end of each bar. They are not interchangeable. Remove the torsion bars.
12. Remove the support crossmember.
13. Remove the retainer, spacer and bushing from the support crossmember.
To install:
steps.
15. Position the support assembly on the frame, out of the way.
16. Align the matchmarks and install the torsion bars, sliding them forward until
they are supported.
17. Bolt the support crossmember into position. Tighten the center nut to 18 ft. lbs.
(24 Nm); the edge nuts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm).

18. Install the adjuster retaining plate and bolt on each torsion bar.
adjustment bolt.
Fig. 3: Installing the torsion bar-K-Series
Fig. 4: Torsion bar adjuster height-K-Series
Upper Ball Joint

See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Installing the upper ball joint mounting1988-90 K-Series
Fig. 2: Installing the upper ball joint mounting1991-98 K-Series

4. Using a 1/8 in. (3.175mm) drill bit, drill a pilot hole through each ball joint rivet.
5. Drill out the rivets with a 1/2 in. (12.7mm) drill bit. Punch out any remaining
rivet material.
6. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball stud.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
To install:
steps.
Service replacement ball joints come with nuts and bolts to replace the rivets.
10. Install the bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) for 15 and 25
Series (K1 or K2); 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 Series (K3).
The bolts are inserted from the bottom.
11. Start the ball stud into the knuckle. Make sure it is squarely seated. Install the
ball stud nut and pull the ball stud into the knuckle with the nut. Do not tighten
the nut just yet.
14. Tighten the ball stud nut to 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1988-95 models and 74 ft.
lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.
(120 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991-98 models. If the
adjustment is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to specification and have the
alignment checked.
16. Upper
Control Arm and Bushings

See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm-K-Series


5. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
6. Unfasten the brake hose bracket retainer and wire the hose aside.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly.
To install:
11. Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important
steps.
12. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both
bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger
tight for now.
height.
13. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1988-90
models and 1995-98 models and 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models. Install
the cotter pin. Never back off the nut to install the cotter pin. Always advance it.
Never advance it more than 1/6 turn.
(120 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991-98 models. If the
adjustment is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to specification and have the
alignment checked.
16. Leaf
Spring

R/V Series
See Figures 1 and 2
1. Raise the vehicle and support it so that there is no tension on the leaf spring
assembly.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of a typical rear

suspension system-R/V Series 30/3500 shown, others similar
Fig. 2: Rear spring U-bolt tightening sequenceR/V Series

2. Remove the stabilizer bar.
3. Loosen the spring-to-shackle retaining bolts. (Do not remove these bolts).
4. Remove the bolts which attach the shackle to the spring hanger.
5. Remove the nut and bolt which attach the spring to the front hanger.
6. Remove the U-bolt nuts.
7. Remove the stabilizer bar anchor plate, spacers, and shims. Take note of their
positions.
8. If so equipped, remove the auxiliary spring.
9. Pull the spring from the vehicle.
10. Inspect the spring and replace any damaged components.
If the spring bushings are defective, use the following procedures for removal &
installation. 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks use bushings that are staked in place. The stakes
must first be straightened. When a new bushing is installed stake it in 3 equally spaced
locations. Using a press or vise, remove the bushing and install the new one.
To install:
11. Place the spring assembly onto the axle housing. Position the front and rear of
the spring at the hangers. Raise the axle with a floor jack as necessary to make
the alignments. Install the front and rear hanger bolts loosely.
12. Install the spacers, shims, auxiliary spring and anchor plate or spring plate.
13. Install the U-bolts, washers and nuts.
14. Tighten the nuts, in a diagonal sequence, to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). When the spring
is evenly seated, Tighten the 10/15 and 20/25 Series nuts to 125 ft. lbs. (169
Nm). Tighten the 30/35 Series nuts to 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm). Use the same
diagonal sequence.
15. Make sure that the hanger and shackle bolts are properly installed. The front
hanger bolt head is outboard as is the rear spring-to-shackle bolt head. The
shackle-to-hanger bolt head faces inboard. When all the bolts, washers and nuts
are installed, tighten them to 92 ft. lbs. (124 Nm) if you are torquing on the nut;
110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm) if your are torquing on the bolt head.
16. Install the stabilizer bar.
C/K Series
1. Raise the vehicle and support it so that there is no tension on the leaf spring
assembly.
Fig. 3: Rear leaf spring mounting-1991-98 C/K

Series, others similar
Fig. 4: Installing the rear leaf springs-1988-90

C/K Series
Fig. 5: Installing the rear leaf springs-1991-93

C/K Series
Fig. 6: Rear axle ride height adjustment-C/K

Series
Fig. 7: Rear spring U-bolt tightening sequenceC/K Series

2. Remove the U-bolt nuts, plates, and spacer(s).
3. Remove the anchor plate.
4. Loosen the spring-to-shackle retaining bolts. (Do not remove these bolts).
5. Remove the bolts which attach the shackle to the rear bracket.
6. Remove the bolt which attaches the spring to the front bracket.
7. Pull the spring from the vehicle.

8. Inspect the spring and replace any damaged components.
To install:
If the spring bushings are defective, use the following procedures for replacement. On
bushings that are staked in place, the stakes must first be straightened. Using a press or
vise, remove the bushing and install the new one. When a new, previously staked
bushing is installed, stake it in 3 equally spaced locations.
9. Place the spring assembly onto the axle housing. Position the front and rear of
the spring at the brackets. Raise the axle with a floor jack as necessary to make
the alignments. Install the front and rear brackets bolts loosely.
10. Install the spacers and spring plate.
11. Install the NEW U-bolts, washers and nuts.
12. Install the anchor plate.

13. Tighten the U-bolt nuts, in a diagonal sequence, to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). When the
spring is evenly seated, tighten the nuts as follows:
15/25 Series: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
35 Series without dual wheels or 8-7.4L engine: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
35 Series with dual wheels: 110 ft. lbs. (148 Nm)
35 Series with 8-7.4L engine, without dual wheels: 110 ft. lbs. (148 Nm)
1988-95 C3HD Series: 207 ft. lbs. (280 Nm)
1996-98 C3HD Series: 187 ft. lbs. (253 Nm)
14. Make sure that the hanger and shackle bolts are properly installed. All bolt heads
should be inboard. Don't tighten them yet.
15. Using the floor jack, raise the axle until the distance between the bottom of the
rebound bumper and its contact point on the axle is 182mm plus or minus 6mm.
16. When the spring is properly positioned, tighten all the hanger and shackle nuts
as follows:
Spring-to-bracket nuts 1988-92 15/25/35 series: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
Spring-to-bracket nuts 1988-95 C3HD series: 320 ft. lbs. (435 Nm)
Spring-to-bracket nuts 1996-98 C3HD series: 306 ft. lbs. (415 Nm)
Leaf spring-to-shackle nuts 1988-92 15/25/35 series: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
17.
Leaf spring-to-shackle nuts 1988-95 C3HD series: 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
Leaf spring-to-shackle nuts 1996-98 C3HD series: 157 ft. lbs. (213 Nm
Shackle-to-bracket nuts 1988-92 15/25/35 series: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
Shackle-to-bracket nuts C3HD series: 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
Shackle-to-bracket nuts1988-95 C3HD series: 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
Shackle-to-bracket nuts1996-98 C3HD series: 157 ft. lbs. (213 Nm)
Shock Absorbers

See Figures 1 and 2
2. Support the rear axle with a floor jack.
3. If the truck is equipped with air lift shocks, bleed the air from the lines and
disconnect the line from the shock absorber.
4. Disconnect the shock absorber at the top by removing the retainers and washers.
5. Remove the nut, washers and bolt from the bottom mount.
6. Remove the shock from the truck.
Fig. 1: Remove the nut, washers and bolt from

the bottom mount
To install:
7. Install the shocks onto the vehicle.
8. On R/V series, tighten the upper mount to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 10/15 and
20/25 Series, or 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on 30/35 Series; the lower to 115 ft. lbs. (160
Nm) on all series.
9. On C/K series except C3HD models, tighten the upper mounting nuts as follows:
1988-95 models: 17-20 ft. lbs. (25-27 Nm)
1996-98 models: 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)
10. On C/K series except C3HD models, tighten the lower mounting nuts as follows:
1988-91 models: 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
1992-95 models: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
1996-98 models: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
11. On C/K series C3HD models, tighten the lower mounting nuts as follows:
1988-91 models: 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
1992-95 models: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
1996-98 models: 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
12. On C/K series C3HD models, tighten the upper mounting nuts as follows:
1988-91 models:17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
1992-95 models: 17-20 ft. lbs. (25-27 Nm)
1996-98 models: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
Fig. 2: Installing the rear shock absorber-C/K

Series
TESTING
of the section.
Stabilizer Bar
R/V Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the rear stabilizer bar-30/3500

R-Series
2. Remove the stabilizer bar end link nuts, bolts, washers, grommets and spacers.
Take note of their respective positions for installation.
3. Remove the clamps securing the stabilizer bar to the anchor arms.
4. Remove the bar.
5. Remove the bushings from the clamps and check them for wear or damage.
Replace them as necessary.
To install:
6. Install the bar onto the vehicle, coating the bushings and all rubber parts with
silicone grease.
7. Tighten the end link nuts just until they reach the unthreaded part of the bolt.
8. Tighten the clamp-to-anchor bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
CAUTION
Make sure that the parking brake cable is routed over the stabilizer bar!
C3HD Series
See Figure 2
1. Raise and support the vehicle on safety stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the upper nut and insulator. Remove the bolts from the spacer and the
bar.
Fig. 2: Installing the rear stabilizer bar-C3HD

3. Remove the U-bolt nuts, the U-bolts, clamps and lower insulators and lift out the
bar.
4. Install the bar and tighten the U-bolt nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Tighten the
upper insulator nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
5. Ignition Switch
1988-91 Models
1. Remove the column shroud halves.
2. Remove the column-to-dash attaching bolts and slowly lower the steering
column, making sure that it is supported.
3. Make sure that the switch is in the Lock position. If the lock cylinder is out, pull
the switch rod up to the stop, then go down one detent.
4. Disconnect the actuating rod from the switch.
5. Remove the two screws and the switch.
To install:
6. Before installation, make sure the switch is in the Lock position.
1992-94 Models
2. Lower the steering column.
3. Remove the washer head screw and the hexagon nut.
4. Disconnect the dimmer switch assembly from the rod.
5. Unfasten the dimmer and ignition switch mounting stud.
6. Seperate the ignition switch from the actuator rod.
7. Unplug the ignition switch electrical connection and remove the switch.
To install:
The new ignition switch will come in the OFF-LOCK position. Once the switch is
assembled on the column, remove the plastic pin from the switch. If you are installing
the old switch, make sure it is in the OFF-LOCK position.
8. Attach the switch to the actuator rod.
9. Move the switch slider to the extreme left position, then move the slider one
detent right to the OFF-LOCK position. Install the dimmer switch mounting stud
and tighten to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
10. Attach the dimmer switch to the rod, then install the washer head screw and
hexagon nut. Do not fully tighten at this time.
11. Place a 3/32 inch drill bit in the hole on the dimmer switch. Position the switch on
the column and push against the rod to eliminate all lash.
12. Install the switch and tighten the screw and nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
13. Attach the switch electrical connection.
14. Raise and attach the steering column.
15. Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper switch operation.
1995-98 Models
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the ignition and key

alarm switch-1996 C/K series
1. Remove the column shroud halves.
2. Remove the column-to-dash attaching bolts and slowly lower the steering
column, making sure that it is supported.
3. Remove the multi function switch if necessary.
4. Remove the key alarm switch, if equipped by gently prying the alarm switch
retaining clip with a small screwdriver. Rotate the alarm switch 1/4 in. turn and
remove.
WARNING
Extreme care is necessary to prevent damage to the collapsible column.
5. Make sure that the switch is in the Lock position. If the lock cylinder is out, pull
the switch rod up to the stop, then go down one detent.
6. Disconnect the actuating rod from the switch.
7. Remove the two screws and the switch.
To install:
8. Before installation, make sure the switch is in the Lock position.
9. Attach the actuating rod to the switch.
10. Install the switch using the original screws. Tighten the screws to 12 inch. lbs.
(1.4 Nm).
11. Install the key alarm switch, if equipped . Make sure the retaining clip is parallel
to the lock cylinder. Rotate the alarm switch 1/4 in. turn until locked in place.
12. Install the multi function switch if removed.
CAUTION
Use of screws that are too long could prevent the column from collapsing on impact.
13. Replace the column. Tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm); the bolts to 20 ft.
lbs. (27 Nm).
14. Install the column shroud halves.
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the alarm switch

removal-1996 C/K-Series
Lock Cylinder
1988-94 Models
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Remove the steering wheel.
Fig. 1: Installing the lock cylinder
Fig. 2: Ignition switch

2. Remove the turn signal switch. It is not necessary to completely remove the
switch from the column. Pull the switch rearward far enough to slip it over the
end of the shaft, but do not pull the harness out of the column.
3. Turn the lock to Run.
4. If necessary, remove the ignition key.
5. If equipped, remove the buzzer switch assembly.
6. Remove the lock retaining screw and remove the lock cylinder.
WARNING
If the retaining screw is dropped on removal, it may fall into the column, requiring
complete disassembly of the column to retrieve the screw.
To install:
7. Rotate the key to the stop while holding onto the cylinder.
8. Push the lock all the way in.
9. Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 40 inch lbs. (5 Nm) for regular columns,
22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm) for tilt columns.

10. Install the turn signal switch and the steering wheel.
1995-98 Models
CAUTION
When performing service around the SIR system components or wiring, the SIR system
MUST be disabled. Failure to do so could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury or unneeded SIR system repairs.
When carrying a live inflator module, make sure that the bag and trim cover are pointed
away from you. Never carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the
underside of the module. In case of accidental deployment, the bag will then deploy
with minimal chance of injury.
When placing a live inflator module on a bench or other surface, always face the bag
and trim cover up, away from the surface.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the SIR system.
2. Remove the upper and lower shroud, air bag module and the steering column.
Fig. 3: Exploded view of the removal of the SIR

coil assembly
3. Remove the retaining ring, SIR coil assembly, wave washer.
4. Remove the shaft lock retaining ring using tool J 23653-SIR or its equivalent to
push down the shaft lock shield assembly. Discard the ring.
5. Remove the shaft lock shield and turn signal cancel cam assembly.
6. Remove the park lock cable assembly from the lock module assembly.
7. Remove the key alarm switch, if equipped by gently prying the alarm switch
retaining clip with a small prytool. Rotate the alarm switch 1/4 in. turn and
remove.
8. Remove the two tapping screws and the ignition key and alarm assembly. Let the
switch hang freely.
CAUTION
The lock assembly is under slight spring tension. Hold the lock bolt in place while
removing the lock module assembly.
9. Remove the three pan head tapping screws and the lock module assembly.
10. Remove the backing plate from the module.
Mark the two sector gears at the

OFF-LOCK position to ensure proper reassembly
11. Remove the sector gears.
12. Remove the positioning tab on the end of the lock cylinder using an 1/8 in.
burring tool. Remove all burrs from the lock module and cylinder assembly.
13. Push on the locking tab of the lock cylinder from inside the lock module
assembly and remove the lock cylinder.
To install:
14. Align the marks on the sector gears and install the gears and the backing plate to
the lock module assembly.
15. Install the lock cylinder set and ensure that the lock module assembly is in the
OFF-LOCK position.
16. Install the key in the lock cylinder and ensure that it is in the OFF-LOCK
position.
17. Line up the locking tab with the slots in the lock module assembly and push the
cylinder into position.
18. Rotate the lock cylinder to the ACC position. The alignment arrows on the sector
gears should be pointing towards each other.
19. Rotate the lock cylinder to the LOCK position. Push the lock bolt in until it is
flush and align the lock module assembly with the head assembly and install the
lock module assembly.
20. Install the three pan head screws and tighten to 53 inch. lbs. (6 Nm).
21. Install the ignition and key alarm switch assembly and the fasteners. Tighten the
fasteners to 12 inch. lbs. (1 Nm).
22. Install the key alarm switch. Make sure the retaining clip is parallel to the lock
cylinder. Rotate the alarm switch 1/4 in. turn until locked in place.
23. Lubricate the lower brass surface of the turn signal cancel cam assembly with
synthetic grease and install the assembly.
24. Align the inner block tooth of the lock plate to block tooth of race and upper
shaft assembly and install the assembly.
25. Install a new shaft lock ring using tool J 23653-SIR and ensure the ring is firmly
seated in the groove on the shaft.
26. Install the center race and upper shaft assembly.
27. Place the ignition switch to the lock assembly and ensure the coil is centered.
28. Install the wave washer and the SIR coil assembly.
29. Install the retaining ring and route the coil wire along the steering column.
30. Install the wire harness straps to the steering column harness.
31. Install the park lock cable assembly with the transmission in Park and the
ignition switch in the OFF-LOCK position.
32. Install the upper and lower covers, lock cylinder set and tilt lever (if equipped).
33. Install the steering column and enable the SIR system. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the sector gear timing

position (OFF-LOCK)
Fig. 5: Remove all burrs from the lock module

and cylinder assembly
Manual Steering Gear

See Figure 1
2. Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the flexible coupling shield.
4. Remove the attaching nut and remove the adapter.
5. Remove the flexible coupling pinch bolt.
6. Mark the relationship of the Pitman arm to the Pitman shaft.
Fig. 1: Manual steering gear-C/K-Series

7. Remove the Pitman shaft nut and then remove the Pitman arm from the Pitman
shaft, using a puller.
8. Remove the steering gear to frame bolts and remove the gear assembly.
To install:
9. Place the steering gear in position, guiding the wormshaft into the flexible
coupling.
10. Install the steering gear to frame bolts and tighten to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
11. Install the flexible coupling pinch bolt. The bolt must pass through the cutout in
the wormshaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
12. Install the adapter on the gear box. Tighten the nut to 5 inch lbs.
13. Connect the flexible coupling shield.
14. Install the Pitman arm onto the Pitman shaft, lining up the marks made at
removal. Install the Pitman shaft nut and tighten it to 185 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
15.
Power Steering Gear

R/V Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Power steering gear installation-R-Series,

V-series similar
2. Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Place a drain pan under the gear and disconnect the fluid lines. Cap the
openings.

7. Remove the Pitman shaft nut and then remove the Pitman arm from the Pitman
shaft, using a puller.
8. Remove the steering gear to frame bolts and remove the gear assembly.
To install:
9. Place the steering gear in position, guiding the wormshaft into flexible coupling.
Align the flat in the coupling with the flat on the wormshaft.
10. Install the steering gear to frame bolts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (89 Nm).
11. Install the flexible coupling pinch bolt. Tighten the pinch bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (40
Nm). Check that the relationship of the flexible coupling to the flange is 1/4-3/4
in. (6-19mm) of flat.
removal. Install the Pitman shaft nut and tighten to 185 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
13. Connect the fluid lines and refill the reservoir. Bleed the system.
C/K Series
See Figure 2
Fig. 2: Power steering gear installation-C/KSeries

2. Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
4. Place a drain pan under the gear and disconnect the fluid lines. Cap the
openings.
5. Remove the adapter and shield from the gear and flexible coupling.
6. Matchmark the flexible coupling clamp and wormshaft.
9. Unfasten shaft nut and then remove the Pitman arm from the Pitman shaft, using
a puller.
10. Unfasten the steering gear-to-frame bolts and remove the gear assembly.
To install:
11. Place the steering gear in position, guiding the wormshaft into flexible coupling.
Align the flat in the coupling with the flat on the wormshaft.
12. Install the steering gear-to-frame bolts and tighten to 69 ft. lbs. (93 Nm) on
1988-90 models; 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm) on 1991-98 models.
13. Install the flexible coupling pinch bolt. Tighten the pinch bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41
Nm) on 1988-90 models; 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on 1991-98 models. Check that the
relationship of the flexible coupling to the flange is 1/4-3/4 in. (6-19mm) of flat.
removal. Install the Pitman shaft nut.

15. Install the adapter and shield.
16. Connect the fluid lines and refill the reservoir. Bleed the system.
17.
Power Steering Pump

R/V Series
See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the hoses at the pump. When the hoses are disconnected, secure the
ends in a raised position to prevent leakage. Cap the ends of the hoses to prevent
the entrance of dirt.
2. Cap the pump fittings.
3. Loosen the bracket-to-pump mounting nuts.
Fig. 1: Removing and installing the pulley

4. Remove the pump drive belt.
5. Remove the bracket-to-pump bolts and remove the pump from the truck.
To install:
6. If a new pump is being installed, remove the pulley with a pulley puller such as
J-25034-B. Install the pulley on the new pump with a forcing screw and washer.
7. Install the pump and tighten all bolts and nuts securely.
8. Fill the reservoir and bleed the pump by turning the pulley counterclockwise (as
viewed from the front) until bubbles stop forming.
9. Bleed the system as outlined.
C/K Series
1. Disconnect the hoses at the pump. When the hoses are disconnected, secure the
ends in a raised position to prevent leakage. Cap the ends of the hoses to prevent
the entrance of dirt.
2. Cap the pump fittings.
3. Loosen the belt tensioner.
4. Remove the pump drive belt.
5. Remove the pulley with a pulley puller such as J-29785-A.
6. Remove the following fasteners:
6-4.3L, 8-5.0L, 8-5.7L engines: front mounting bolts
8-7.4L engine: rear brace
8-6.2L/6.5L diesel: front brace and rear mounting nuts
7. Lift out the pump.

To install:
8. Observe the following torques:
6-4.3L, 8-5.0L, 8-5.7L engines, front mounting bolts: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
8-7.4L engine, rear brace nut: 61 ft. lbs. (82 Nm); rear brace bolt: 24 ft.
lbs. (32 Nm); mounting bolts: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
8-6.2L/6.5L diesel, front brace: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm); rear mounting nuts:
17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
9. Install the pulley with J-25033-B.

10. Install the drive belt.
11. Install the hoses.
12. Fill and bleed the system.
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
The procedures for maintaining, adjusting, and repairing the power steering systems and
components discussed in this chapter are to be done only after determining that the
steering linkages and front suspension systems are correctly aligned and in good
condition. All worn or damaged parts should be replaced before attempting to service
the power steering system. After correcting any condition that could affect the power
steering, do the preliminary tests of the steering system components.
1. Fill the reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid remain undisturbed for at
least 2 minutes.
2. Start the engine and run it for only about 2 seconds.
3. Add fluid as necessary.
4. Repeat Steps 1-3 until the level remains constant.

5. Raise the front of the vehicle so that the front wheels are off the ground. Set the
parking brake and block both rear wheels front and rear. Manual transmissions
should be in Neutral; automatic transmissions should be in Park.
6. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm.
7. Turn the wheels (off the ground) to the right and left, lightly contacting the
stops.
8. Add fluid as necessary.
9. Lower the vehicle and turn the wheels right and left on the ground.
10. Check the level and refill as necessary.
11. If the fluid is extremely foamy, let the truck stand for a few minutes with the
engine off and repeat the procedure. Check the belt tension and check for a bent
or loose pulley. The pulley should not wobble with the engine running.
12. Check that no hoses are contacting any parts of the truck, particularly sheet
metal.
13. Check the oil level and refill as necessary. This step and the next are very
important. When willing, follow Steps 1-10 above

14. Check for air in the fluid. Aerated fluid appears milky. If air is present, repeat the
above operation. If it is obvious that the pump will not respond to bleeding after
several attempts, a pressure test may be required.
15.
Steering Linkage

Pitman Arm
2. Remove nut from Pitman arm ball stud.
Fig. 1: Steering linkage-R-Series
Fig. 2: Steering linkage-V-Series

3. On R/V series, remove the Pitman arm or relay rod from ball stud by tapping on
side of rod or arm (in which the stud mounts) with a hammer while using a
heavy hammer or similar tool as a backing. Pull on the linkage to remove from
the stud.
Fig. 3: Removing the Pitman arm

4. On C/K series, break loose the Pitman ball stud from the relay rod using a
screw-type ball stud tool. Pull on the linkage to remove the stud.
Fig. 4: Typical steering linkage components-CSeries
Fig. 5: Steering linkage-1988-91 K-Series

5. If necessary, unbolt the steering gear from the frame.
6. Remove the Pitman arm nut from the Pitman shaft or the clamp bolt from the
Pitman arm, and mark the relation of the arm position to the shaft.
7. Remove Pitman arm, using a large puller.

To install:
8. Install the Pitman arm on the Pitman shaft, lining up the marks made upon
removal.
On R/V series, if a clamp type Pitman arm is used, spread the Pitman arm just enough,
with a wedge, to slip arm onto the Pitman shaft. Do not spread the Pitman arm more
than required to slip over the Pitman shaft with hand pressure. Do not hammer or
damage to the steering gear may result. Be sure to install the hardened steel washer
before installing the nut.
9. Make sure that the threads on the ball studs and in the ball stud nuts are clean
and smooth. If threads

are not clean and smooth, ball studs may turn in their sockets when attempting to
tighten the nut. Check the condition of the ball stud seals; replace if necessary.
10. Install the Pitman shaft nut or Pitman arm clamp bolt and tighten to 184 ft. lbs.
(249 Nm) on R and C/K-Series; 125 ft. lbs. (169 Nm) on V-Series.
11. If removed, bolt the steering gear to the frame.
12. Position the ball stud onto the Pitman arm or relay rod.
13. On R/V series, tighten the Pitman arm-to-relay rod nut to 66 ft. lbs. (89 Nm). On
C/K series, tighten the Pitman arm-to-relay rod nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on
1988-91 models; 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm) on 1992-98 models. Always advance the
nut to align the cotter pin hole. NEVER back it off!
14. Lubricate ball studs.
15. Lower the vehicle to the floor.
C3HD Series
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm ball stud.
3. Matchmark the Pitman arm to the Pitman shaft, remove the nut from the steering
gear shaft and discard it.
4. Remove the Pitman arm with the proper tool (ball joint puller).
5. Install the arm so the marks line up with those on the shaft. Tighten the nut to
184 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nut to 48 ft. lbs. (62 Nm).
Idler Arm
2. Remove the idler arm ball stud nut. Discard the nut.
3. Using a screw-type ball joint tool, separate the idler arm from the relay rod.
To install:
4. Make sure that the threads on the ball stud and in the ball stud nut are clean and
smooth. If threads are not clean and smooth, ball stud may turn in the socket
when attempting to tighten nut. Check condition of ball stud seal; replace if
necessary.
5. Position the idler arm on the frame and install the mounting bolts. On R/V
series, tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). On C/K series, tighten the frameto-bracket bolts to 78 ft. lbs. (105 Nm) on 1988-92 models, 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
on 1993-95 models and 71 ft. lbs. (96 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
6. Install the idler arm ball stud in the relay rod, making certain the seal is
positioned properly. On R/V series, tighten the nut to 66 ft. lbs. (89 Nm). On
C/K series, tighten the new ball stud nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on 1988-92 and
1996 models, 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on 1993-95 models and 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm) on
1997-98 models. Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole. NEVER
back it off!
7. Lower the vehicle to the floor.
Relay Rod (Center Link)
R/V SERIES
1. Raise and support the vehicle with jackstands.
2. Remove the inner ends of the tie rods from the relay rod.
3. Remove the nuts from the Pitman and idler arm ball studs at the relay rod.
4. Using a screw-type ball joint tool, separate the relay rod from the Pitman and
idler arms.
5. Remove the relay rod from the vehicle.
To install:
6. Make sure that threads on the ball studs and in the ball stud nuts are clean and
smooth. If the threads are not clean and smooth, ball studs may turn in sockets
when attempting to tighten nut. Check condition of ball stud seals; replace if
necessary.
7. Connect the relay rod to the idler arm and Pitman arm ball studs, making certain
the seals are in place. Tighten the nuts to 66 ft. lbs. (89 Nm).Always advance the
nut to align the cotter pin hole. NEVER back it off!
C/K SERIES
1. Raise and support the vehicle with jackstands.
2. Disconnect the steering shock absorber from the relay rod.
3. Remove the nut and disconnect the inner tie rod ball joint from the relay rod
using a screw-type ball joint tool. Discard the nut.

4. Remove the nuts from the Pitman and idler arm ball studs at the relay rod.
Discard the nuts.
5. Using a screw-type ball joint tool, disconnect the relay rod from the Pitman and
idler arm.
6. Remove the relay rod from the vehicle.
To install:
7. Make sure that threads on the ball studs and in the ball stud nuts are clean and
smooth. If the threads are not clean and smooth, ball studs may turn in sockets
when attempting to tighten nut. Check condition of ball stud seals; replace if
necessary.
8. Connect the relay rod to the idler arm and Pitman arm ball studs, making certain
the seals are in place. Tighten the new ball stud nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on
1988-92 and 1996 models, 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) on 1993-95 models and 46 ft. lbs.
(62 Nm) on 1997-98 models. Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin
hole. NEVER back it off!
9. Install the tie rod to the center link. Tighten the new nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
10. Install the shock absorber. Tighten the frame end nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm); the
relay rod end nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm). Always advance the nut to align the
cotter pin hole. NEVER back it off!
Drag Link
C3HD SERIES ONLY
1. Raise the front of the truck and support it on safety stands.
2. Remove the nuts from the Pitman arm and drag link ball studs.
3. Press the link off the arm and the tie rod.
4. Install the link. Tighten the Pitman arm ball stud to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm) to seat the
tapers. Tighten both ball stud nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Steering Linkage Shock Absorber
V SERIES
1. Remove the cotter pins and nuts and remove the unit.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the tie rod end nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62
Nm); the frame end nut to 81 ft. lbs. (109 Nm). Always advance the nut to align
the cotter pin hole. NEVER back it off!
C/K SERIES
See Figures 6 and 7
2. Remove the frame end nut and bolt.
3. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the relay rod end. It may be necessary to
separate the shock from the relay rod with a screw-type ball joint tool.
Fig. 6: Steering shock absorber-C-Series
Fig. 7: Steering shock absorber-K-Series

4. Install the shock and tighten the frame end nut and bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm);
the relay rod end nut to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm).Always advance the nut to align the
cotter pin hole. NEVER back it off! A maximum torque of 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm) is
permissible to align the hole.
Tie Rod Ends
R-SERIES
See Figure 8
1. Loosen the tie rod adjuster sleeve clamp nuts.
2. Remove the tie rod end stud cotter pin and nut.
Fig. 8: Tie rod clamp and adjuster tube

positioning-R-Series and 1988-91 C/K-Series
3. Use a screw-type tie rod removal tool to loosen the stud.
4. Remove the inner stud in the same way.
5. Unscrew the tie rod end from the threaded sleeve. The threads may be left or
right hand threads. Count the number of turns required to remove it.
To install:
6. Grease the threads and turn the new tie rod end in as many turns as were needed
to remove it. This will give approximately correct toe-in.
7. Tighten the clamp bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
8. Tighten the stud nuts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm) and install new cotter pins. You may
tighten the nut to align the cotter pin, but don't loosen it.
9. Adjust the toe-in.

V-SERIES
1. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie rod assembly.
2. Disconnect the steering shock absorber from the tie rod.
3. Use a screw-type tie rod removal tool to loosen the ball studs from the knuckles.
4. Count the number of exposed threads on each tie rod end and record it.
5. Loosen the tie rod end lock nuts and unscrew the tie rod ends.
6. When installing the tie rod ends, turn them in until the same number of threads
previously visible are achieved. Tighten the locknuts.
7. Install the tie rod assembly in the knuckles and tighten the castellated nuts to 40
ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole. NEVER
back it off!
8. Tighten the tie rod end locknuts to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm).
C/K SERIES
2. Remove the nut from the knuckle end ball stud. Discard the nut.

positioning-C3HD-Series

positioning-1992-98 C/K-Series
3. Using a screw-type ball joint tool, separate the tie rod ball stud from the
knuckle.
4. On all except C3HD models, remove the nut from the inner tie rod ball stud.
5. Using a screw-type ball joint tool, separate the tie rod ball stud from the relay
rod.
6. Clean the threaded parts of the tie rod ends thoroughly and count the exact
number of threads exposed on each tie rod end. Measure the overall length of the
tie rod assembly.
7. Loosen the clamp nuts, spread the clamps and unscrew each tie rod end.
To install:
8. Coat the threaded parts of the new tie rod ends with chassis grease. Screw the tie
rod ends into the sleeve until the exact number of threads is exposed on each tie
rod end. Check the overall length of the new assembly. Adjust as necessary.
Don't tighten the clamp nuts yet.
9. On all except C3HD models, position the tie rod assembly in the relay rod and
install a new nut on the ball stud. Tighten the nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
10. Position the other tie rod end in the knuckle. Install the new nut and tighten it to
40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on 1988-96 models (except C3HD) and 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
on 1997-98 models (except C3HD). On 1988-94 C3HD models, tighten the nut
to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) on 1995-98 models.
11. Before tightening the clamp nuts, position the clamp as shown in the
accompanying illustrations.
12. Tighten the clamp nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) on 1988-96 models (except C3HD)
and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-98 models (except C3HD). On C3HD models,
tighten the clamp nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1988-95 models and 65 ft. lbs.
(88 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
Connecting Rod
V-SERIES
See Figure 11
1. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from each end of the connecting rod.
2. Using a screw type remover tool, break loose the connecting rod from the
Pitman arm and steering knuckle.
3. If the connecting rod ends are being replaced, note the length of the complete
assembly and record it. Also note the respective directions of the ends when
installed.
4. Loosen the clamp bolts and unscrew the ends. If the bolts are rusted, replace
them.
5. Install the rod and tighten the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud
nuts to 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm). Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole.
NEVER back it off!
Fig. 11: Connecting rod clamp and adjuster tube

positioning-V-Series
Steering Wheel
All Series
CAUTION
2. On models equipped with a drivers side air bag, perform the following
procedure:
a. Disable the Supplemental Restraint System (if equipped).
b. On all but 1996-98 models equipped with a air bag, unfasten the screws
at the rear of the steering wheel.
c. On 1996-98 models equipped with a air bag, turn the steering wheel 90
to access the rear shroud holes to the inflator module. Insert a
screwdriver in the holes and push the leaf spring to release the pin. Turn
the steering wheel 180 to access the remaining shroud holes and using
the screwdriver, release the remaining pins.
d. Tilt the inflator module rearward from the top to access the wiring. Tag
and unplug the lead wire from the clip on the module, the lead wire from
the clip on the steering wheel and the Connector Position Assurance
(CPA) and retainer from the module.
3. If not equipped with a drivers side air bag, remove the horn pad or button cap
and disconnect the horn wires.
Fig. 1: Remove the horn button cap
Fig. 2: Disengage the horn wiring
Fig. 3: If equipped, remove the snapring from the

steering shaft
4. Mark the steering wheel-to-steering shaft relationship.
5. If equipped, remove the snapring from the steering shaft.
6. Remove the nut from the steering shaft.
WARNING
Don't hammer on the steering shaft!
7. Remove the steering wheel with a puller.
To install:
8. Install the wheel. The turn signal control assembly must be in the Neutral
position to prevent damaging the canceling cam and control assembly. Tighten
the nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
9. Install the horn pad and horn contact (if equipped).
10. If equipped with a drivers side air bag, install the inflator module as follows:
a. Attach the lead wire to the clip on the module, the lead wire to the clip
on the steering wheel and the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and
retainer to the module.
b. On 1996-98 models, install the inflator module by pressing it firmly into
the steering wheel so that all four notched pins in the leaf spring are fully
engaged. Be very careful that you do not pinch any wires.
c. On all but 1996-98 models equipped with a air bag, install the inflator
module and tighten the screws to 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm).

11. Connect the battery ground cable and enable the SIR system (if equipped).
Fig. 4: Remove the nut and washer from the

steering shaft
Fig. 5: Use a puller to separate the steering wheel
Fig. 6: Remove the steering wheel
Turn Signal (Combination) Switch

1988-94 Models
CAUTION
1. Make sure the switch is in the off position.
2. Remove the steering wheel as outlined in this section.
Fig. 1: Retaining ring removal
Fig. 2: Pliers may be used to remove the turn

signal wire protector
Fig. 3: Removing the turn signal switch
Fig. 4: Install the lockplate and the retaining ring

using the tool illustrated (or its equivalent)
3. Remove the instrument panel trim cover.
4. Insert a screwdriver into the lockplate cover slot and pry out the cover. Remove
the lockplate. A special tool is available to do this. The tool is an inverted Ushape, with a hole for the shaft. The shaft nut is used to force it down. Pry the
wire snapring out of the shaft groove. Discard the snapring.
5. Remove the tool and lift the lockplate off the shaft.
6. Remove the turn signal lever screw and lever.

7. Press the hazard button inward and unscrew it.
8. Remove the switch retaining screws. Pull the switch connector out of the mast
jacket and feed the switch connector through the column support bracket.
9. Position the turn signal lever and shifter housing in the downward, or "low"
position and pull downward on the lower end of the column using a pliers on the
tab provided. Remove the wire protector.
10. Remove the switch mounting screws. Remove the switch by pulling it straight
up while guiding the wiring harness cover through the column.
To install:
11. Install the replacement switch by working the connector and cover down
through the housing and under the bracket.
12. Install the switch mounting screws and the connector on the mast jacket bracket.
Install the column-to-dash trim plate.
13. Install the flasher knob and the turn signal lever.
14. With the turn signal lever in neutral and the flasher knob out, slide the thrust
washer, upper bearing preload spring, and canceling cam into the shaft.
15. Position the lockplate on the shaft and press it down until a new snapring can be
inserted in the shaft groove.
16. Install the cover and the steering wheel.
1995-98 Models
See Figure 5
CAUTION
1. Make sure the switch is in the off position.
2. Remove the steering wheel as outlined in this section.
3. Disconnect the tilt wheel lever by pulling it out.
4. Remove the knee bolster and the Torx head screws from the lower column
cover.
5. Lower the cover by tilting it down and then sliding it back to disengage the
locking tabs.
6. Remove the Torx head screws from the upper column cover.
7. Remove the steering column lock set and the upper cover.
8. Disconnect the wiring harness straps from the steering column wiring harness.
9. Remove the retainer from Connector Position Assurance (CPA) if equipped.

10. Disengage the connector from the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) if
equipped.
11. Unplug the gray and black connectors from the bulkhead connector.
12. Unfasten the Torx head screws from the switch and remove the switch.
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the multi-function

switch-1996-98 C/K series
To install:
13. Install the switch. Use a small blade screwdriver to compress the electrical
contact and move the switch into position. The electrical contact must rest on the
canceling cam assembly.
14. Fasten the Torx head screws on the switch. Tighten the screws to 53 inch. lbs.
(6 Nm).
15. Install the upper column cover and fasten the column bracket nuts. Tighten the
nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

16. Install the knee bolster and the steering column cylinder lock. Tighten the
column cover Torx screws to 12 inch. lbs. (1.4 Nm).

17. Install the lower column cover and tighten the Torx screws 53 inch. lbs. (6
Nm).
18. Make sure the switch is in the off position and install the steering wheel. Refer
to this section for this procedure.

19. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).
CHECKING TURNING EFFORT
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Checking the ball joint turning effort-VSeries

3. Disconnect the connecting rod and tie rod at each knuckle.
4. Position the knuckle in the straight-ahead position and attach a spring scale to
the tie rod hole of the knuckle. Pull at a right (90) angle and determine the
amount of pull necessary to keep the knuckle moving after initial break-away.
The pull should not exceed 25 lbs. (111.2 N) in either direction for each knuckle.
If pull is excessive, the ball joint can be adjusted. See the procedure in this
section. If no adjustment is required, connect the connecting rod and tie rod.
See Figures 2 and 3
The following special tools, or their equivalents, are necessary for this procedure: J9519-30, J-23454-1, J-23454-4, J-23454-3, J-23454-2, J-23447.
3. Remove the locking hubs.
4. Remove the spindle.
Fig. 2: Removing the lower ball joint-V-Series
Fig. 3: Removing the upper ball joint-V-Series

5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle.
6. Remove the knuckle-to-steering arm nuts and adapters.
7. Remove the steering arm from the knuckle.
8. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the upper and lower ball joints.
Do not remove the adjusting ring from the knuckle. If it is necessary to loosen the ring
to remove the knuckle, don't loosen it more than 2 threads. The non-hardened threads in
the yoke can be easily damaged by the hardened threads in the adjusting ring if caution
is not used during knuckle removal!
9. Insert the wedge-shaped end of the heavy prybar, or wedge-type ball joint tool,
between the lower ball joint and the yoke. Drive the prybar in to break the
knuckle free.
10. Repeat the procedure at the upper ball joint.
11. Lift off the knuckle.
12. Secure the knuckle in a vise.
13. Remove the snapring from the lower ball joint. Using tools J-9519-30, J-234541 and J-23454-4, or their equivalent screw-type forcing tool, force the lower ball
joint from the knuckle.
14. Using tools J-9519-30, J-23454-3 and J-23454-4, or their equivalent screw-type
forcing tool, force the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
To install:
15. Install the lower ball joint first, (the one without the cotter pin hole) squarely in
the knuckle. Using tools J-9519-30, J-23454-2 and J-23454-3, or their equivalent
screw-type forcing tool, force the lower ball joint into the knuckle until it is fully
seated.
16. Install the snapring.
17. Perform the same procedure for the upper ball joint (the one with the cotter pin
hole).
18. Start the ball joints into their sockets. Place the nuts onto the ball studs. The nut
with the cotter pin slot is the upper nut. Tighten the lower nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40
Nm), for now.
19. Using tool J-23447, tighten the adjusting ring to 50 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).
20. Tighten the upper nut to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. NEVER
loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always tighten it. Tighten the lower
nut to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
21. Attach the steering arm to the knuckle using adapters and NEW nuts. Tighten the
nuts to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).

22. Have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.
ADJUSTMENT
Tool J-23447, or its equivalent, is necessary for this procedure.
3. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the upper ball joint.
4. Using tool J-23447, back off the adjusting ring no more than 2 threads, then,
tighten the adjusting ring to 50 ft. lbs.
5. Install the upper nut. Tighten the upper nut to 100 ft. lbs. Install a new cotter pin.
NEVER loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always tighten it.
20.
Leaf Spring

See Figure 1
Fig. 1: U-bolt tightening sequence-V-Series

1. Raise and support the vehicle so that all tension is taken off of the front
suspension.
2. Remove the shackle retaining bolts, nuts and spacers.
3. Remove the front spring-to-frame bracket bolt, washer and nut.
4. On the 10/1500 and 20/2500 both sides and the 30/3500 left side: remove the Ubolt nuts, washers, U-bolts, plate and spacers.
5. On the 30/3500 right side: remove the inboard spring plate bolts, U-bolt nuts,
washers, U-bolt, plate and spacers.
6. To replace the bushing, place the spring in a press or vise and press out the
bushing.
To install:
7. Press in the new bushing. The new bushing should protrude evenly on both sides
of the spring.
8. Install the spring. Coat all bushings with silicone grease prior to installation.
9. Install all bolts and nuts finger-tight.
10. When all fasteners are installed, torque the bolts. Tighten the U-bolt nuts,
including the inboard right side 30/3500 series bolts, in the crisscross pattern
shown, to 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm). Tighten the shackle nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (67 Nm).
Tighten the front eye bolt nut to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).
11.
Shock Absorbers

Dual or Quad Shocks
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the shock absorber(s)-V-Series

2. Remove the nuts and eye bolts securing the upper and lower shock absorber
eyes. Quad shocks have a spacer between the lower end bushings.
3. Remove the shock absorber(s) and inspect the rubber eye bushings. If these are
defective, replace the shock absorber assembly.
4. Make sure that the spacer is installed at the bottom end on quad shocks. Tighten
the upper end nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). On dual shocks, tighten the lower end to
65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). On quad shocks, tighten the lower end to 89 ft. lbs. (120
Nm).
Testing
Refer to the shock absorber testing procedure in the C/R-series front suspension portion
of the section.
Spindle

See Figures 1 and 2
Special tools J-23445-A/J-8092, and J-21465-17, or their equivalents, are necessary for
this procedure.
Fig. 1: Removing the hub adjusting nut-V-Series
Fig. 2: Installing the spindle-V-Series

3. Remove the locking hub.
4. Remove the hub and bearing assembly.
5. Remove the nuts and remove the caliper mounting bracket and splash shield.
6. Tap the end of the spindle with a plastic mallet to break it loose from the
knuckle. If tapping won't break it loose, you'll have to do the following:
a. Thread the bearing locknut part way onto the spindle.
b. Position a 2 or 3-jawed puller with the jaws grabbing the locknut and the
screw bearing in the end of the axle shaft.
c. Tighten the puller until the spindle breaks free. It will be very helpful to
spray Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or similar solvent around the spindle

mating area and around the bolt holes. As the puller is tightened, tap the
spindle with the plastic mallet. This often helps break the spindle loose.
7. Drive out the bearing and seal.
To install:
8. Drive in a new bearing using bearing installer J-23445-A/J-8092 for 10/1500
and 20/2500 Series or J-21465-17 for 30/3500 Series.
9. Pack the spindle bearing with wheel bearing grease.
10. When you place the spindle on the knuckle. Be sure the seal and oil deflector are
in place.
11. Using new washers (30/3500 Series), install new nuts and tighten them to 65 ft.
lbs. (88 Nm).
Stabilizer Bar

See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Installing the stabilizer bar-V-Series

4. Remove the stabilizer bar-to-spring plate bolts.
bushings with silicone grease prior to installation. Install all fasteners fingertight. When all the fasteners are in place, tighten the stabilizer bar-to-frame nuts
to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Tighten the stabilizer bar-to-spring plate bolts to 133 ft.
lbs. (180 Nm).
8. Steering Knuckle
10/1500 and 20/2500 Series
See Figures 1 and 2
5. Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle.
6. Remove the knuckle-to-steering arm nuts and adapters.
7. Remove the steering arm from the knuckle.
8. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the upper and lower ball joints.
Do not remove the adjusting ring from the knuckle. If it is necessary to loosen the ring
to remove the knuckle, don't loosen it more than 2 threads. The non-hardened threads in
the yoke can be easily damaged by the hardened threads in the adjusting ring if caution
is not used during knuckle removal.
9. Insert the wedge-shaped end of the heavy prybar, or wedge-type ball joint tool,
between the lower ball joint and the yoke. Drive the prybar in to break the
knuckle free.
10. Repeat the procedure at the upper ball joint.
11. Lift off the knuckle.
To install:
12. Position the knuckle on the yoke.
13. Install the ball joints into their sockets. And tighten the nuts as outlined in the
ball joint removal and installation procedure in this section.
14. Install the hub/rotor assembly and wheel bearings. Adjust the bearings.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering knuckle,

hub and bearing, and related components (10/1500, 20/2500)-V-Series
Fig. 2: Tightening the adjusting ring-V-Series

30/3500 Series
The following special tools, or their equivalents, are necessary for this procedure: J26871, J-7817, and J-22301.
3. Remove the hub/rotor/bearings assembly.
6. Remove the upper cap from the right side knuckle and/or steering arm from the
left side knuckle, by loosening the bolts (right side) and/or nuts (left side) a little
at a time in an alternating pattern. This will safely relieve spring pressure under
the cap and/or arm. Once spring pressure is relieved, remove the bolts and/or
nuts, washers and cap and/or steering arm.
7. Remove the gasket and compression spring.
8. Remove the bolts and washers and remove the lower bearing cap and the lower
kingpin.
9. Remove the upper kingpin bushing by pulling it out through the knuckle.
10. Remove the knuckle from the axle yoke.
11. Remove the retainer from the knuckle.

12. Using a large breaker bar and adapter J-26871, remove the upper kingpin from
the axle yoke by applying 500-600 ft. lbs. (677-813 Nm) of torque to the kingpin
to break it free.
13. Using a hammer and blunt drift, drive out the retainer, race bearing and seal
from the axle yoke. These are driven out all at once.
To install:
14. Using tool J-7817, install a new retainer and race in the axle yoke.
15. Fill the recessed area in the retainer and race with the same grease used on the
wheel bearings.
16. Completely pack the upper yoke roller bearing with wheel bearing grease.
17. Install the bearing and a new seal in the upper axle yoke, using a bearing driver
such as J-22301. DON'T distort the seal. It should protrude slightly above the
yoke when fully seated.
18. Using adapter tool J-28871, install the upper kingpin. The kingpin must be
tightened to 550 ft. lbs. (745 Nm).

19. Position the knuckle in the yoke. Working through the knuckle, install a new felt
seal over the kingpin and position the knuckle on the kingpin.
20. Install the bushing over the kingpin.
21. Install the compression spring, gasket, bearing cap and/or steering arm and bolts
and/or nut and washer. Tighten the bolts and/or nuts, in an alternating pattern, to
80 ft. lbs. (108).
22. Install the lower bearing cap and kingpin. Tighten the bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108
Nm) in an alternating pattern.

23. Thoroughly lube both kingpins through the grease fittings.
Fig. 3: Exploded view of the steering knuckle,

hub and bearing, and related components (30/3500)-V-Series
Fig. 4: Removing the upper king pin-V-Series
Fig. 5: Installing the retainer-V-Series
Fig. 6: Installing the seal-V-Series
Wheel Hub/Rotor and Bearing

4. Remove the locking hub.
5. Remove the lock nut, ring and adjusting nut.
6. Remove the hub/rotor and outer bearing. Do not drop the wheel bearings. The
inner bearing assembly will remain in the hub and may be removed after prying
out the inner seal. Discard the seal.
To install:
9. Apply a thin film of grease to the spindle at the outer wheel bearing seat and at
the inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat.
10. Apply a small amount of grease inboard of each wheel bearing cup, inside the
rotor/ hub assembly.
fully seated against the hub shoulder.
13. Lubricate the seal lip with a small amount of grease, then place the inner bearing
in the hub and install a new inner seal. Use a flat plate to install the seal so it is
flush with the hub/rotor flange.
14. Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor assembly.
15. Using your hands, firmly press the outer bearing into the hub. Install the
adjusting nut.
16. Spin the wheel hub by hand and tighten the nut to 50 ft. lbs. (60 Nm). Back off
the nut until it is loose. On models with automatic locking hubs, tighten the
adjusting nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) while rotating the hub by hand, back off the
adjusting nut 3/8 of a turn. On models with manual locking hubs, tighten the
adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) while rotating the hub by hand, back off the
adjusting nut enough to free the bearing.
17. Install the ring and the lock nut. The tang on the inside diameter of the ring must
pass onto the slot on the spindle. Also the hole in the ring must align with the pin
on the lock nut. Move the adjusting nut to align the pin. There should be 0.0010.010 in. (0.025-0.254mm) end-play. This can be measured with a dial indicator,
if you wish.
18. Install the lock nut and tighten to 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm).
19. Install the locking hub assembly and the caliper.
Replace the wheel and tire and lower the vehicle.
Wheel Lug Studs

With Disc Brakes
1. Raise and support the appropriate end of the vehicle safely using jackstands,
then remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake pads and caliper. Support the caliper aside using wire or a
coat hanger. For details, please refer to of this repair guide.
3. Remove the outer wheel bearing and lift off the rotor. For details on wheel
bearing removal, installation and adjustment, please refer to of this repair guide.
4. Properly support the rotor using press bars, then drive the stud out using an arbor
press.
If a press is not available, CAREFULLY drive the old stud out using a blunt drift.
MAKE SURE the rotor is properly and evenly supported or it may be damaged.
Fig. 1: View of the rotor and stud assembly
Fig. 2: Pressing the stud from the rotor

To install:
5. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and start the new stud with a hammer and
drift pin. Do not use any lubricant or thread sealer.
6. Finish installing the stud with the press.
Fig. 3: Use a press to install the stud into the

rotor
If a press is not available, start the lug stud through the bore in the hub, then position
about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the hub/rotor while
tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE
STUD IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.
7. Install the rotor and adjust the wheel bearings.
8. Install the brake caliper and pads.
9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

With Drum Brakes
1. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands, then remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. If necessary to provide clearance, remove the brake shoes, as outlined in of this
repair guide.
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the drum, axle flange

and stud
Fig. 5: Use a C-clamp and socket to press out the

stud
Fig. 6: Force the stud into the axle flange using

washers and a lug nut
4. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the stud from the axle flange.
5. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid soap and place it into the hole.
To install:
6. Position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the
flange while tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position.
MAKE SURE THE STUD IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and
washers.
7. If applicable, install the brake shoes.
8. Install the brake drum.
9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.
11.
Wheels

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the jack, tire iron and, if necessary, the spare tire from their storage
compartments.
3. Refer to of this repair guide for the jacking points on your vehicle. Then, place
the jack in the proper position.
4. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place the selector lever in P; with a
manual transmission, place the shifter in Reverse.
5. If equipped with a wheel cover or hub cap, insert the tapered end of the tire iron
in the groove and pry off the cover.
6. Apply the parking brake and block the diagonally opposite wheel with a wheel
chock or two.
Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut
into wedges may be used. If possible, keep one or two of the chocks in your tire storage
compartment, in case any of the tires has to be removed on the side of the road.
7. With the tires still on the ground, use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug nuts
loose.
If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may
occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the
bolt usually loosens the rust. Be careful, as continued pounding will likely damage the
brake drum or rotor.
8. Using the jack, raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground. Support the
vehicle safely using jackstands.

9. Unfasten the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Fig. 1: The jack is sometimes stored under the

hood on the inner fender. There may also be a decal showing jack operation and lifting
point locations
Fig. 2: Use the tire iron to loosen the wheel trim

cover
Fig. 3: Once loosened, remove the wheel trim

cover from the wheel
Fig. 4: Use the tire iron to loosen the wheel lug

nuts before raising the vehicle with the jack
Fig. 5: Place the jack at a suitable lifting point

and raise the vehicle
To install:
10. On models with single wheels perform the following steps for installation.
a. Lift the wheel onto the lugs.
b. Snug down the topmost nut, then snug down the rest of the nuts in a
crisscross pattern.
c. When all nuts are snugged, torque them, in a crisscross pattern, to the
specifications listed at the end of this procedure.
11. On models with dual wheels perform the following steps for installation.
a. Install the inner and outer wheels, and clamp ring. Be sure that the pins
on the clamp ring face outwards.
b. Install the nuts snugly, in a crisscross pattern. When all the lugs are
snugged, tighten them in the sequence shown to the specifications listed.
Trucks with single front and rear wheels:
R10/1500 w/5 studs and steel or aluminum wheels: 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
V10/1500 w/6 studs and steel wheels: 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)
V10/1500 w/6 studs and aluminum wheels: 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
All C/K Series: 1988-90 models, 90 ft. lbs. (123 Nm); 1991-95 models, 120 ft.
lbs. (160 Nm); 1996-98 models, 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
All R/V Series with 8 studs:-120 ft. lbs. (160 Nm)
Trucks with single front and dual rear wheels:

R/V Series with 8 studs-140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
R/V Series with 10 studs-175 ft. lbs. (240 Nm)
C/K Series: 1988-90 models, 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm).
C/K Series: 1991-98 models with 8 studs, 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).
C/K Series: 1991-98 models with 10 studs, 177 ft. lbs. (240 Nm)
Fig. 6: Wheel lug nut tightening sequence-all

models
INSPECTION
Inspect the tires for lacerations, puncture marks, nails and other sharp objects. Repair or
replace as necessary. Also check the tires for treadwear and air pressure as outlined in of
this repair guide .
Check the wheel assemblies for dents, cracks, rust and metal fatigue. Repair or replace
as necessary.
Disconnecting The Cables

When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good idea to
disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many
sensitive electrical components such as the Engine Control Module (ECM), radio,
alternator, etc.
Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you disconnect the
negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent your accidentally grounding the
positive (+) terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting it, thereby
preventing damage to the above mentioned components.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will
prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground
itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and, of course,
damaging some components such as the alternator diodes.
When the battery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check that
your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are all
working correctly. If your vehicle contains an Electronically Tuned Radio (ETR), don't
forget to also reset your radio stations. Ditto for the clock.
Circuit Breakers
Circuit breakers differ from fuses in that they are reusable. Circuit breakers open when
the flow of current exceeds specified value and will close after a few seconds when
current flow returns to normal. Circuits breakers are used due to the fact that they must
operate at times under prolonged high current flow due to demand even though there is
not malfunction in the circuit.
There are 2 types of circuit breakers. The first type opens when high current flow is
detected. A few seconds after the excessive current flow has been removed, the circuit
breaker will close. If the high current flow is experienced again, the circuit will open
again.
The second type is referred to as the Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) circuit
breaker. When excessive current flow passes through the PTC circuit breaker, the circuit
is not opened but its resistance increases. As the device heats ups with the increase in
current flow, the resistance increases to the point where the circuit is effectively open.
Unlike other circuit breakers, the PTC circuit breaker will not reset until the circuit is
opened, removing voltage from the terminals. Once the voltage is removed, the circuit
breaker will re-close within a few seconds.
Flashers
The turn signal and hazard flasher units are usually located in the convenience center
located just below the instrument panel on the drivers side. Replace the flasher by
unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. Confirm proper flasher operation.
Fuse Block and Convenience Center

For 1988-93 models, refer to the wiring diagrams for fuse application and amperage
ratings.
Fuses protect all the major electrical systems in the car. In case of an electrical overload,
the fuse melts, breaking the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity.
The fuse block on most models covered by this section is located under the instrument
panel to the left of the steering column. The fuse block should be visible from
underneath the steering column, near the pedal bracket.
Fig. 1: Some models may use an underhood

fuse/relay panel
If the panel is not visible, check for a removable compartment door or trim panel which
may used on later models to hide the block. This panel is usually located on the left end
of the instrument panel.
The convenience center is located just below the instrument panel on the drivers side. It
contains individual relays such as the seat belt and ignition key alarm, and flasher.
On newer model vehicles there is an underhood fuse/relay center contains both mini and
maxi fuses, as well as some relays.
If a fuse blows, the cause should be investigated and corrected before the installation of
a new fuse. This, however, is easier to say than to do. Because each fuse protects a
limited number of components, your job is narrowed down somewhat. Begin your
investigation by looking for obvious fraying, loose connections, breaks in insulation,
etc. Use the techniques outlined at the beginning of this section. Electrical problems are
almost always a real headache to solve, but if you are patient and persistent, and
approach the problem logically (that is, don't start replacing electrical components
randomly), you will eventually find the solution.
Each fuse block uses miniature fuses (normally plug-in blade terminal-type for these
vehicles) which are designed for increased circuit protection and greater reliability. The
compact plug-in or blade terminal design allows for fingertip removal and replacement.
Although most fuses are interchangeable in size, the amperage values are not. Should
you install a fuse with too high a value, damaging current could be allowed to destroy
the component you were attempting to protect by using a fuse in the first place. The
plug-in type fuses have a volt number molded on them and are color coded for easy
identification. Be sure to only replace a fuse with the proper amperage rated substitute.
Fig. 2: Fuse panel cover-1991 model shown
Fig. 3: The fuse panel cover is located at the

drivers side of the instrument panel. Remove the panel to access the fuses-1996-98
models shown
Fig. 4: Fuse application and amperage ratings1994-98 models. Refer to the wiring diagrams for 1988-93 models
Fig. 5: Underhood fuse/relay panel applications

and ratings
A blown fuse can easily be checked by visual inspection or by continuity checking.
A special heavy duty turn signal flasher is required to properly operate the turn signals
when a trailer's lights are connected to the system.
REPLACEMENT
1. Locate the fuse for the circuit in question.
When replacing the fuse, DO NOT use one with a higher amperage rating.
2. Check the fuse by pulling it from the fuse block and observing the element. If it
is broken, install a replacement fuse the same amperage rating. If the fuse blows
again, check the circuit for a short to ground or faulty device in the circuit
protected by the fuse.
3. Continuity can also be checked with the fuse installed in the fuse block with the
use of a test light connected across the 2 test points on the end of the fuse. If the
test light lights, replace the fuse. Check the circuit for a short to ground or faulty
device in the circuit protected by the fuse.
4. General Information
5. 1988-95 Models
6. The electro-motor cruise control system maintains a desired speed under normal
driving conditions. The main components of the system are the multi-function
lever, cruise control module, vehicle speed sensor, vehicle speed sensor
calibrator module, release switches and electrical harness.
7. The module contains a stepper motor and a electronic controller. The controller
monitors the vehicle speed and operates the stepper motor. The motor operates a
band and throttle cable to maintain the desired speed. The module also contains
a low speed limit that will prevent system operation below 25 mph (40 km/h).
The controller is activated by the signals from the multi-function lever located
on the turn signal lever. A release switch which is either mounted on the brake or
clutch pedal (if equipped with a manual transmission), disengages the system
when the brake or clutch pedal is depressed and the throttle then returns to idle.
8. 1996-98 Models
9. Gasoline Engines
10. The cruise control system used on vehicles equipped with gasoline engines
comprises of the Vehicle Control Module (VCM), cruise control module, the
multi-function lever and the brake release switch. The cruise control module
contains a stepper motor which is used to vary throttle position. The cruise
control module receives its commands from the multi-function lever and the
vehicle speed from the VCM. Based on these commands the cruise control
module will control vehicle speed.
11. Diesel Engines
12. The cruise control system used on vehicles equipped with diesel engines
comprises of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), electronic throttle system,
the Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer (VSSB), the multi-function lever and the brake
release switch. The PCM receives commands from the multi-function lever and
the vehicle speed information from the VSSB. Based on the commands from the
multi-function switch and the VSSB, the PCM the uses the electronic throttle
system to control vehicle speed.
13. See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Cruise control troubleshooting
14.
15.
Amplifier

See Figures 1 and 2
2. Locate the amplifier, disconnect the wires and unbolt it from the bracket.
Fig. 1: Amplifier installation-Suburban with

front bucket seats
Fig. 2: Amplifier installation-Suburban with

front bench seats
3. To install, mount the amplifier in the bracket and connect the wires.
5. CD Player
2. Remove the accessory trim plate.
3. Disconnect any electrical leads.
4. Release the retainers using a small screwdriver and pull out the unit.
5. Unplug all electrical connections and remove the unit.
To install:
6. Attach all electrical connections to the unit.
7. Slide the unit into position.
8. If the unit is not retained by screws, push the unit in until the retainers are fully
engaged.
9. If the unit is retained with screws, install and tighten the screws.
10. Install the trim plate.
12.
Radio

WARNING
Make certain that the speaker is attached to the radio before the unit is turned ON. If it
is not, the output transistors may be damaged.
1988-91 R/V Series
See Figure 1
2. Remove the control knobs and the bezels from the radio control shafts.
3. Remove the nuts from the support shafts.
4. Remove the support bracket retaining screws.
Fig. 1: Radio installation-1988-91 R/V series

5. Lifting the rear edge of the radio, push the radio forward until the control shafts
clear the instrument panel. Then, lower the radio far enough so that the electrical
connections can be unplugged.
6. Remove the power lead, speaker, and antenna wires and then pull out the unit.
To install:
7. Connect the power lead, speaker, and antenna wires and then install the unit.
8. Attach all electrical leads.
9. Install the support bracket retaining screws.
10. Install the nuts on the support shafts.
11. Press the control knobs and the bezels onto the radio control shafts.
1988-94 C/K Models
2. Remove the instrument cluster trim and bezel.
3. Remove the retainers or screws.
4. Pull the unit towards you just far enough to disconnect the wiring. Then, remove
the unit.
Fig. 2: Radio control head installation
Fig. 3: Remove the trim retaining screws
Fig. 4: Remove the trim plate

To install:
5. Connect the wiring to the control head and then slide it into the hole. Fasten the
retainers or snap the retainers into place.
6. Install the panel bezel.
Fig. 5: Remove the audio component retaining

fasteners
Fig. 6: Remove the tape player from the

instrument panel and disengage the electrical connections
Fig. 7: Remove the radio from the instrument

panel and disengage the electrical connections
1995-98 C/K Models
3. If the unit is retained with screws, unfasten the screws.
4. If the unit is not retained by screws, release the retainers using a small
screwdriver and pull out the unit.
To install:
engaged.
12.
Radio Receiver
See Figure 1
Some models contain a radio receiver, which is mounted separately from the control
head.
2. Remove the steering column filler panel and the ashtray.
3. Unplug any electrical leads.
4. Unfasten the screw from the receiver bracket and then remove the nut from the
center support.
5. Remove the receiver.
Fig. 1: Radio receiver installation-1988-94

models
6. Unfasten the nut on the bracket and remove the bracket and clip from the
receiver.
To install:
7. Attach the clip and bracket to the receiver. Tighten the nut to 22 inch lbs. (3
Nm).
8. Attach the receiver to the center support and tighten that nut to 22 inch lbs. (3
Nm).
9. Tighten the screw on the bracket to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm). Attach the electrical
lead.
10. Install the ashtray and steering column panel.
12.
Speakers

1988-91 R/V Series
FRONT
See Figure 1
2. Remove the four upper screws on the instrument panel bezel.
3. Unfasten the instrument panel pad screws and remove the pad.
4. Unfasten the speaker screws, lift up the speaker until you can disconnect the
wiring and remove the speaker.
To install:
5. Connect the wiring to the speaker and then install the speaker.
6. Install the panel pad and then install the bezel screws.
Fig. 1: Front speaker installation-1988-91 R/V

series
REAR
See Figure 2
Fig. 2: Rear speaker installation-1988-91 R/V

series
2. Unfasten the speaker grille retaining screws and remove the grille.
To install:
4. Connect the wiring to the speaker and then install the speaker.
5. Install the speaker grille and then install the screws.
1988-94 Models
FRONT
2. Unfasten the speaker grille retaining fasteners and remove the grille.
Fig. 3: Remove the speaker grille retaining

fasteners
Fig. 4: Remove the speakers and disconnect the

wiring
To install:
4. Connect the wiring to the speaker and then install the speaker. Tighten the
screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
5. Install the speaker grille and then install the screws.
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front speaker

mounting
REAR
See Figures 6 and 7
2. Unfasten the speaker grille or trim panel retaining screws and remove the grille.
To install:
5. Install the speaker grille or trim panel and then install the screws.
Fig. 6: Rear speaker installation-C/K series;

Pick-Up and Cab Chassis
Fig. 7: Rear speaker installation-C/K series;

Extended Cab and Crew Cab
SIDE DOOR PANEL
See Figure 8

2. Disconnect the speaker wiring.
3. Remove the side door map pocket.
4. Unfasten the speaker screws and remove the speaker.
To install:
6. Install the map pocket.
Fig. 8: Rear speaker installation-C/K series; rear

side door on the Suburban
REAR OVERHEAD
See Figure 9
2. Unfasten the speaker grille or trim panel retaining screws and remove the grille.
To install:
5. Install the speaker grille or trim panel and then install the screws.
Fig. 9: Rear speaker installation-C/K series; rear

overhead on the Suburban, Blazer, Jimmy and Yukon
1995-96 Models
FRONT SIDE DOOR
1. Remove the trim panel and the speaker retainer screws.
2. Using a small screwdriver release the speaker retainer.
3. Remove the speaker and disengage the electrical connector.

To install:
4. Engage the electrical connector and install the speaker. The speaker should snap
into the retainer when fully seated.
5. Tighten the speaker screws to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm), and install the trim panel.
FRONT DOOR ARMREST
1. Lift the armrest speaker cover at the rear edge and slide the cover back to
disengage the front retainer.
2. Disengage the electrical connector and rotate the speaker to release it.
To install:
3. Install the speaker to the cover by rotating it into position. The speaker should
snap into position when fully seated.
4. Engage the electrical connector and slide the cover into the front slots.
5. Lower the armrest speaker cover to engage the retainers.
REAR SPEAKERS
1. Remove the speaker grille or rear trim panel.
2. Remove the speaker screws and the speaker.
3. Disengage the electrical connectors.
To install:
4. Engage the electrical connectors and install the speakers.
5. Fasten the speaker screws to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
6. Install the speaker grille or rear trim panel.
SIDE DOOR
1. Remove the speaker grille and retainers.
2. Remove the speaker and disengage the electrical connectors.
To install:
3. Engage the electrical connectors and install the speakers.
4. Install the speaker retainers and grille.
Fig. 10: Exploded view of the rear side door

speaker assembly (Suburban models)
Fig. 11: Exploded view of the rear speaker

assembly (Extended crew cab/cab models)
REAR OVERHEAD SPEAKERS
See Figure 12
1. Remove the speaker grille.
2. Remove the roof inner trim panel, if necessary.
3. Remove the speaker screws and the speaker.
4. Disengage the electrical connectors, as necessary.
To install:
5. Engage any electrical connectors that were removed.
6. Install the speaker and speaker screws. Tighten the screws to 18 inch lbs. (2
Nm).
7. Install the inner roof trim panel, if removed.
8. Install the speaker grille.
Fig. 12: Exploded view of the rear overhead

speaker assembly (Suburban and utility models)
Tape Player
1988-94 Models
2. Remove the accessory trim panel.
3. Unplug the unit electrical connections.
4. Remove the retainers or screws and remove the unit.
5. Remove the bumper and clip from the unit.
To install:
6. Attach the bumper and clip to the unit.
7. Install the unit making sure the bumper goes into the hole on the bracket.
8. Fasten the retainers or screws.
9. Attach the electrical connections.
10. Install the trim panel.
1995-98 C/K Models
See Figure 1
3. If the unit is retained with screws, unfasten the screws.
4. If the unit is not retained by screws, release the retainers using a small
screwdriver and pull out the unit.
To install:
engaged.
Fig. 1: Tape player installation
Air Conditioning Components

Repair or service of air conditioning components is not covered here, because of the risk
of personal injury or death, and because of the legal ramifications of servicing these
components without the proper EPA certification and experience. Cost, personal injury
or death, environmental damage, and legal considerations (such as the fact that it is a
federal crime to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere), dictate that the A/C components
on your vehicle should be serviced only by a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC)
trained, and EPA certified automotive technician.
If your vehicle's A/C system uses R-12 refrigerant and is in need of recharging, the A/C
system can be converted over to R-134a refrigerant (less environmentally harmful and
expensive). Refer to for additional information on R-12 to R-134a conversions, and for
additional considerations dealing with your vehicle's A/C system.
Blower Motor

Front
Without Air Conditioning
See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Mark the position of the blower motor in relation to its case.
3. Unplug the electrical connection at the motor.
4. Remove the blower attaching screws and remove the assembly. Pry gently on the
flange if the sealer sticks.
Fig. 1: Blower motor wiring

5. The blower wheel can be removed from the motor shaft by unfastening the nut at
the center.
To install:
6. Install the blower wheel to the motor shaft and tighten the nut at the center.
7. Apply a bead of sealer to the blower mounting flange. Position the blower so
that the marks are aligned and install the screws.
8. Attach the electrical connection at the motor.
9. Connect the negative battery terminal.
1988-91 R/V Series With Air Conditioning and GASOLINE ENGINES
See Figures 2 and 3
4. Disconnect the blower motor cooling tube.
5. Unfasten the blower attaching screws and remove the assembly. Pry gently on
the flange if the sealer sticks.
the center.
To install:
9. Connect the motor cooling tube.
Fig. 2: Heater case and related parts
Fig. 3: Evaporator and blower motor

1988-91 R/V Series With Air Conditioning and DIESEL ENGINES
2. Unfasten the attaching bolts and nuts and remove the insulating shield from the
case.
5. Disconnect the blower motor cooling tube.
the center.
To install:
10. Connect the motor cooling tube.
12. Install the insulating shield.
1988-90 C/K Series With Air Conditioning
2. Unfasten the electrical connection at the motor.
the center.
To install:
7. Connect the electrical connection at the motor.
199198 C/K With Air Conditioning
2. Remove the instrument panel compartment.
3. Unfasten the forward-most screw in the right side door sill plate. Remove the
trim panel from the right hinge pillar.
4. If necessary for access, unplug the ECM wiring and remove the ECM.
5. Unplug the electrical lead at the blower motor and if equipped, remove the
underdash courtesy lamp.
6. Remove the bolt from the right side lower instrument panel support. Remove the
blower cover and the cooling tube.
7. Unfasten the flange screws and pull out the blower motor. You may have to pry
back the right side of the instrument panel slightly. Be careful!
To install:
8. Position the blower motor and install the mounting screws. Be careful not to
catch the blower on anything when sliding it in.
9. Install the cooling tube and the blower shield.
10. Install the bolt into the instrument panel support.
11. Attach the courtesy lamp and the blower electrical lead.
12. If removed, install the ECM. Attach the wiring harness.
13. Install the trim panel on the pillar. Don't forget the screw in the sill plate!
14. Install the instrument panel compartment and connect the battery cable.
Rear
1988-91 Models WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING
2. Disconnect the blower motor wiring harness.
3. Remove the blower motor clamp.
4. Remove the motor attaching screws and lift out the motor.
To install:
5. Install the motor and tighten the attaching screws.
6. Install the blower motor clamp.
7. Connect the blower motor wiring harness.
1988-91 Models WITH AIR CONDITIONING
2. Remove the drain tube from the rear duct.
3. Unfasten the attaching screws and remove the rear duct from the roof panel.
4. Disconnect the blower motor wiring and remove the ground strap and wire.
5. Support the case and remove the lower-to-upper case half screws and lower the
case and motor assemblies.
6. Remove the motor retaining strap and remove the motor and wheels.
To install:
7. Install the motor and wheels.
8. Install the motor retaining strap.
9. Raise the case and install the lower-to-upper case half screws.
10. Connect the blower motor wires.
11. Attach the blower motor ground straps at the center connector between the
motors.
12. Install the duct.
13. Install the screws securing the duct to the roof and case.
14. Connect the drain tubes at the rear of the blower-evaporator duct.

1992-98 Models
See Figure 4
2. Remove the right rear quarter panel trim.
3. Disconnect the electrical lead at the fan.
4. Remove the screws and if equipped, the cooling tube.
5. If necessary, remove the fan retaining nut and lift out the blower fan.
6. Remove the blower motor.
To install:
7. Install the blower motor and then position the fan.
8. Install the retaining nut and then tighten the mounting screws to 12 inch lbs. (2
Nm).
9. If removed, install the cooling tube.
10. Connect the electrical lead. Install the quarter panel trim cover.
Fig. 4: Auxiliary heating and A/C system
Control Cables
Temperature, Defrost Or Mode Cables
1988-94 Models
See Figures 1 and 2
2. Remove the instrument panel trim plate and then remove the control assembly.
3. Disconnect the cables at the control head.
4. If necessary, remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
5. Disconnect the cables from the heater case.

To install:
6. Attach the cables to the heater case. Make sure the cable(s) are routed properly.
7. If removed, install the glove compartment.
8. Install the control head and trim plate. Connect the battery cable.
Fig. 1: Temperature and defroster control cables1988-94 models
Fig. 2: Typical temperature control and mode

cables-1988-94 models
Vent Cable
1988-91 models
2. Remove the glove box. Remove the ash tray and let it hang.
3. Lower the steering column access panel and let it hang.
4. Remove the cable mounting bracket and disconnect the cable from the vent door.
5. Remove the cable from the access panel, then remove the cable from the vehicle.
To install:
6. Attach the cable to the access panel and the vent door.
7. Install the cable mounting bracket and the lower steering column access panel.
8. Install the ash tray and glove box assemblies.
left vent cable-1992-94 models
See Figure 3
1. Remove the steering column opening filler.
2. Disconnect the cable from the opening filler and from the air inlet valve.
3. Remove the cable from the vehicle.
To install:
4. Attach the cable to the to the air inlet valve and the steering column opening
filler.
5. Install the steering column opening filler.
right vent cable-1992-94 models
See Figure 3
1. Remove the glove box and the steering column opening filler.
2. Loosen the cable attaching screw and disconnect the cable from the heater
module.
3. Disconnect the cable from the opening filler.
4. Remove the cable from the vehicle.
To install:
5. Attach the cable to the to the heater module and the steering column opening
filler.
6. Install the cable attaching screw and the steering column opening filler.
7. Install the instrument panel compartment.
Fig. 3: Vent control cables-1992-94 models

Temperature Control Cable
1995-98 models
See Figure 4
2. Roll the instrument panel back and then remove the control assembly.
3. Unplug the control assembly electrical connection.
4. Disconnect the cables at the control assembly.
5. If necessary, remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
6. Note the routing of the cables. Squeeze the retainer that attaches the cable to the
temperature valve, squeeze the post and lift the cable end to remove it.
To install:
7. Cycle the temperature control to the full cold position.
8. Make sure the temperature door is closed.
9. Snap the cable onto the temperature valve and secure the cable by snapping it
into the heater case.
10. Attach the cable to the control assembly making sure the cable is properly
routed.
11. Attach the control assembly electrical connection.
12. Install the control assembly and roll the panel forward. Connect the battery
cable.
Fig. 4: Temperature and defrost control cable

routing-1995-98 models
Defrost Control Cable
1995-98 models
1. Remove the instrument cluster trim plate.

2. Remove the control assembly.
3. Unplug the control assembly electrical connection.
4. Disconnect the cables at the control assembly.
5. Disconnect the cable from the defroster valve.
To install:
6. Cycle the mode control to the heater position.
7. Make sure the defrost door is closed.
8. Snap the cable onto the temperature valve and secure the cable by snapping it
into the heater case.
9. Attach the cable to the control assembly making sure the cable is properly
routed.
10. Attach the control assembly electrical connection.
11. Install the control assembly and the instrument cluster trim plate.
ADJUSTMENT
1988-94 Temperature Cable
1. Remove the instrument panel compartment and door.
2. Loosen the cable attaching bolt at the heater case assembly.
Ensure that the cable is installed in the bracket on the defroster duct assembly
3. Place the temperature lever in the full COLD position and hold while tightening
the cable attaching screw.
4. Install the instrument panel compartment and door.
5.
Control Panel

Front
1988-91 R/V Series
See Figure 1
Fig. 1: Control assembly-1988-91 R/V series

2. Remove the radio.

3. Remove the instrument panel bezel.
4. Remove the control panel-to-dash screws.
5. Lower the control panel from the dash, without kinking the cable. Disconnect
the cable, vacuum harness and electrical harness.
To install:
6. Connect the cable, vacuum harness and electrical harness. Be sure that they are
not twisted or kinked. Position the control panel into the dash.
7. Install the control panel-to-dash screws and tighten them to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
8. Install the instrument panel bezel.
9. Install the radio.
1988-98 R/V AND C/K Models
See Figures 2 and 3
2. Remove the instrument panel bezel.
3. Remove the control panel-to-dash screws or release the snap-fit retainers using a
small prytool.
4. Lower the control panel from the dash, without kinking the cable, and
disconnect the cable, vacuum harness (if equipped) and electrical harness.
To install:
5. Connect the control cable, vacuum harness (if equipped) and electrical harness
to the rear of the control assembly and position it into the dash.
6. If equipped, install the screws and tighten them to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
7. If equipped with the snap-fit retainers, slide the assembly into the dash until the
retainers engage.
8. Install the instrument panel bezel and connect the battery cable.
Fig. 2: Some front control assemblies are

retained by screws...
Fig. 3: ... and some are retained by snap-fit

retainers
Rear
Front Overhead
See Figure 4
2. Remove the roof console.
3. Pull the control panel out slightly, disconnect the electrical lead and then remove
the control head.
To install:
4. Connect the lead and slide the panel back into the console.
5. Install the roof console and connect the battery cable.
Fig. 4: Rear control head assembly-front

overhead console
Center Overhead
2. Remove the control panel bezel.
3. Pull the control panel out slightly, disconnect the electrical lead and then remove
the control panel.
To install:
4. Connect the lead and slide the panel back into the console.
5. Install the bezel and connect the battery cable.
6. Heater Core
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in
sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be
reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
Front
1988-91 R/V Series WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING
2. Disconnect the heater hoses at the core tubes and drain the engine coolant. Plug
the core tubes to prevent spillage.
3. Remove the nuts from the distributor air ducts in the engine compartment.
4. Remove the glove compartment and door.
5. Disconnect the air-defrost and temperature door cables.
6. Remove the floor outlet and unfasten the defroster duct-to-heater distributor
screw.
7. Remove the heater distributor-to-instrument panel screws. Pull the assembly
rearward to gain access to the wiring harness and disconnect the wires attached
to the unit.
8. Remove the heater distributor from the truck.
9. Remove the heater core retaining straps and remove the core from the truck.
To install:
10. Install the heater core. Be sure that the case-to-core and case-to-dash panel
sealer is intact.
11. Position the heater distributor. Connect the wires attached to it and then install
the heater distributor-to-instrument panel screws.
12. Install the floor outlet and tighten the defroster duct-to-heater distributor screw.
13. Connect the air-defrost and temperature door cables.
14. Install the glove compartment and door.
15. Install the nuts into the distributor air ducts (in the engine compartment).
16. Connect the heater hoses at the core tubes.

17. Connect the negative battery cable. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks.
1988-91 R/V Series WITH AIR CONDITIONING
2. Disconnect the heater hoses at the core tubes and drain the engine coolant. Plug
the core tubes to prevent spillage.
3. Remove the glove compartment and door.
4. Disconnect the center duct from the defroster outlet duct.
5. Disconnect the center, lower air distributor and the center air outlet ducts.
6. Disconnect the temperature door cable.
7. Remove the nuts from the 3 selector duct studs that project into the engine
compartment.
8. Remove the outlet duct-to-instrument panel screws. Pull the assembly rearward
to gain access to the wiring harness and disconnect the wires and vacuum tubes
attached to the unit.
9. Remove the heater distributor from the truck.
10. Remove the heater core retaining straps and remove the core from the case.
To install:
11. Install the heater core. Be sure that the core-to-core and case-to-dash panel
sealer is intact.
12. Position the heater distributor. Connect the wires attached to it and then install
the heater distributor-to-instrument panel screws.
13. Install the floor outlet and tighten the defroster duct-to-heater distributor screw.
14. Connect the temperature door cable.
15. Connect the center and lower air distributors and the center air outlet ducts.
16. Connect the center duct to the defroster outlet duct.
17. Install the glove compartment and door.
19. Connect the negative battery cable. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks.
1988-90 C/K Series
2. Remove the coolant overflow bottle.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Disconnect the heater hoses at the core tubes.
5. In the engine compartment, remove the heater case-to-firewall screws.

6. Disconnect the antenna cable at the mast.
7. Remove the glove box.
8. Disconnect the wiring harness at the engine's Electronic Control Module (ECM).
9. Remove the ECM and bracket.
10. Remove the right side kick panel.
11. Remove the right side lower dash panel bolt and nut.
12. Remove the heater case mounting bolts.
13. While lifting the instrument panel slightly, remove the case assembly.
14. Lift the core from the case.
To install:
15. Lower the core into the case.
16. Position the case assembly against the firewall.
17. Install the heater case mounting bolts.
18. Install the right side lower dash panel bolt and nut.
19. Install the right side kick panel.
20. Install the ECM and bracket.
21. Connect the ECM wiring harness.
22. Install the glove box.
23. Connect the antenna cable at the mast.
24. Install the heater case-to-firewall screws.
26. Fill the cooling system.
27. Install the coolant overflow bottle.
1991-92 R/V and 1991-98 C/K Series
3. Remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
4. Tag and unplug all electrical leads as necessary.
5. Remove the center air distribution duct from the floor.
6. If necessary, remove the ECM and mounting tray.

7. Remove the hinge pillar trim panels.
8. Remove the blower motor cover and then remove the motor.
9. Remove the steering wheel and tilt back the instrument panel slightly.
10. Remove the coolant overflow tank. Disengage the heater hoses at the core
connections.
11. Unfasten the attaching screws and nut and then remove the heater case.
12. Remove the seven screws and lift off the heater case cover.
13. Remove the fasteners and brackets that hold the heater core to the case and lift
the core from the case.
To install:
14. Install the heater core in the case.
15. Install the heater case bottom plate. Make sure there is a good seal.
16. Install the heater case into the truck. Tighten the 4 lower screws to 17 inch lbs.
(2 Nm); the upper screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm); and the nuts to 25 inch lbs. (2.8
Nm).
18. Install the coolant overflow tank.
19. Install the instrument panel and the steering wheel.
20. Install the blower motor and cover.
21. Install the trim panels and if removed, the ECM. Install the air distribution duct
and reconnect all electrical leads.
22. Install the glove compartment. Fill the cooling system and connect the battery
cable.
Rear
1988-91 Models
3. Disconnect the heater hoses at the core tubes.
4. Disconnect the blower motor wiring harness.
5. Remove the blower motor clamp.
6. Remove the motor attaching screws and lift out the motor.
7. Unfasten the upper-to-lower case half screws and remove the upper case half.
8. Remove the core seal.
9. Lift out the core.

To install:
10. Install the heater core.
11. Install the core seal.
12. Install the upper case half and then tighten the upper-to-lower case half screws.
13. Install the motor and then tighten the attaching screws.
14. Install the blower motor clamp.
15. Connect the blower motor wiring harness.
17. Fill the cooling system.
1992-98 Models
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine coolant.
2. Remove the right rear quarter panel trim and then remove the panel itself.
3. Remove the right rear wheelhousing liner.
4. Disconnect the heater hoses from the core.
5. Unplug the electrical lead. Remove the drain valve.
6. Remove the heater module.
7. If necessary, remove the blower motor.
8. Remove the heater case cover.
9. Remove the heater case cover and then remove the heater core.
To install:
10. Install the heater core and then install the heater case cover.
11. If removed, install the blower motor.
12. Remove the heater module.
13. Attach the electrical lead. Install the drain valve.
14. Connect the heater hoses to the core.
15. Install the right rear wheelhousing liner.
16. Install the right rear quarter panel and then install the trim.
17. Connect the negative battery cable and fill the engine with coolant.
18.
Heater Water Control Valve

See Figure 1
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in
sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be
reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
2. Loosen the hose clamps at the valve enough to slide the clamps away from the
fittings on the valve.
3. Disconnect the hoses and the vacuum line from the valve.
4. Remove the valve.
Fig. 1: Location of the heater water control and

its related components (on models equipped)
Back-Up Light Switch

Manual Transmission
See Figures 1 and 2
2. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
3. Unplug the electrical connector at the switch.
4. Unscrew the switch from the transmission case.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the switch to 21 ft. Lbs. (28 Nm).
Fig. 1: Back-up light switch-NVG 4500 manual

transmission
Fig. 2: Back-up light switch-NVG 5LM60

manual transmission
Automatic Transmission
The back-up light switch on 1995-98 models is incorporated into the neutral/park safety
switch. The back-up light switch on 1988-94 models is mounted in the steering column
and is covered in of this repair guide. This procedure applies to 1995-98 models only.
1. Place the transmission in park and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
3. Disconnect the shift cable end from the shift control lever and remove the nut
securing the shift control lever to the manual shaft.
4. Unplug the electrical connector from the switch and remove the switch retainers.
5. Remove the switch from the transmission.
To install:
This adjustment is performed with the switch removed from the vehicle. Neutral
position tool J 41364-A or its equivalent is required for this procedure.
6. Position tool J 41364-A or its equivalent onto the park/neutral switch. make sure
that the slots on the switch are lined up with the lower tabs on the tool.
7. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined with the slot on the
top of the switch. Do not remove the tool from the switch
Before sliding the switch onto the shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge
of the shafts to remove any burrs.
8. Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats, then slide the switch onto
the shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the mounting bosses on the
transmission.
9. Install the switch and tighten the switch retainers. Tighten the switch retainers to
20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
10. Remove the adjustment tool.
11. Engage the electrical connector and install the control lever to the manual shaft.
12. Install the control lever nut and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
13. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative battery cable.
14. Check the switch for proper operation. The vehicle should start in P or N only.
15. If adjustment is required, loosen the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch
slightly, tighten the bolts and check switch operation.
16. Automatic
Transmission
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
Use Dexron lll or its superseding fluid type.
FLUID LEVEL CHECK
Check the level of the fluid at least once a month. The fluid level should be checked
with the engine at normal operating temperature and running. If the truck has been
running at high speed for a long period, in city traffic on a hot day, or pulling a trailer,
let it cool down for about thirty minutes before checking the level.
1. Park the truck on a level surface with the engine idling. Shift the transmission
into P and set the parking brake.
2. Remove the dipstick (on newer models, you may have to flip up the handle
first), wipe it clean and reinsert if firmly. Be sure that it has been pushed all the
way in.
3. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level while holding it horizontally. All
models have a HOT and a COLD side to the dipstick.
Fig. 1: Remove the dipstick to check the

transmission fluid level
Fig. 2: Hold the dipstick horizontally and check

the fluid level
Fig. 3: Use a funnel to add transmission fluid

COLD: the fluid level should fall in this range when the engine has been running
for only a short time.
HOT: the fluid level should fall in this range when the engine has reached
normal running temperatures.
4. Early models have two dimples below the ADD mark, the level should be
between these when the engine is cold.
5. If the fluid level is not within the proper area on either side of the dipstick, pour
ATF into the dipstick tube. This is easily done with the aid of a funnel. Check
the level often as you are filling the transmission. Be extremely careful not to
overfill it. Overfilling will cause slippage, seal damage and overheating.
Approximately one pint of ATF will raise the level from one notch to the other.
WARNING
The fluid on the dipstick should always be a bright red color. It if is discolored (brown
or black), or smells burnt, serious transmission troubles, probably due to overheating,
should be suspected. The transmission should be inspected by a qualified service
technician to locate the cause of the burnt fluid.
DRAIN AND REFILL
See Figures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8
Fig. 4: Loosen all the pan bolts
Fig. 5: Pull one corner of the pan down to drain

most of the fluid and remove the pan
Fig. 6: Remove the old pan gasket and clean both

gasket mating surfaces
1. The fluid should be drained with the transmission warm. It is easier to change
the fluid if the truck is raised somewhat from the ground, but this is not always
easy without a lift. The transmission must be level for it to drain properly.
2. Place a shallow pan underneath to catch the transmission fluid (about 5 pints).
Loosen all the pan bolts, then pull one corner down to drain most of the fluid. If
it sticks, VERY CAREFULLY pry the pan loose. You can buy aftermarket drain
plug kits that makes this operation a bit less messy, once installed.
If the fluid removed smells burnt, serious transmission troubles, probably due to
overheating, should be suspected.
3. Remove the pan bolts and empty out the pan. On some models, there may not be
much room to get at the screws at the front of the pan.
4. Clean the pan with solvent and allow it to air dry. If you use a rag to wipe it out,
you risk leaving bits of lint and threads in the transmission.
5. Remove the filter or strainer retaining bolts. On the Turbo Hydra-Matic 400,
there are two screws securing the filter or screen to the valve body. A reusable
strainer may be found on some models. The strainer may be cleaned in solvent
and air dried thoroughly. The filter and gasket must be replaced.
To install:
6. Install a new gasket and filter.
Fig. 7: Remove the filter from the transmission
Fig. 8: Check the condition of the O-ring and

replace it as necessary
7. Install a new gasket on the pan, and tighten the bolts evenly to 18 ft. lbs. (25
Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
8. Add DEXRONIII or its superseding type of transmission fluid through the
dipstick tube. The correct amount is in the Capacities Chart. Do not overfill.
9. With the gearshift lever in Park, start the engine and let it idle. Do not race the
engine.
10. Move the gearshift lever through each position, holding the brakes. Return the
lever to Park, and check the fluid level with the engine idling. The level should
be between the two dimples on the dipstick, about 1/4 in. (6mm) below the ADD
mark. Add fluid, if necessary.
11. Check the fluid level after the truck has been driven enough to thoroughly warm
up the transmission. If the transmission is overfilled, the excess must be drained
off. Overfilling causes aerated fluid, resulting in transmission slippage and
probable damage.
12.
Chassis Greasing
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
Fig. 1: Lubrication points for the R-series
Fig. 2: Lubrication points for the V-series
Fig. 3: Lubrication points for the C-series
Fig. 4: Lubrication points for the K-series
Fig. 5: Front lubrication fittings-C/K series

Refer to the diagrams for chassis points to be lubricated. Not all vehicles have all the
fittings illustrated. Water resistant EP chassis lubricant (grease) conforming to GM
specification 6031-M should be used for all chassis grease points.
Every year or 7500 miles (12,067 km) the front suspension ball joints, both upper and
lower on each side of the truck, must be greased. Most trucks covered in this guide
should be equipped with grease nipples on the ball joints, although some may have
plugs which must be removed and nipples fitted.
WARNING
Do not pump so much grease into the ball joint that excess grease squeezes out of the
rubber boot. This destroys the watertight seal.
1. Raise up the front end of the truck and safely support it with jackstands. Block
the rear wheels and firmly apply the parking brake.
2. If the truck has been parked in temperatures below 20F (-7C) for any length of
time, park it in a heated garage for an hour or so until the ball joints loosen up
enough to accept the grease.
3. Depending on which front wheel you work on first, turn the wheel and tire
outward, either full-lock right or full-lock left. You now have the ends of the
upper and lower suspension control arms in front of you; the grease nipples are
visible pointing up (top ball joint) and down (lower ball joint) through the end of
each control arm.
4. If the nipples are not accessible enough, remove the wheel and tire.
5. Wipe all dirt and crud from the nipples or from around the plugs (if installed). If
plugs are on the truck, remove them and install grease nipples in the holes
(nipples are available in various thread sizes at most auto parts stores).
6. Using a hand operated, low pressure grease gun loaded with a quality chassis
grease, grease the ball joint only until the rubber joint boot begins to swell out.
The steering linkage should be greased at the same interval as the ball joints. Grease
nipples are installed on the steering tie rod ends on most models.
7. Wipe all dirt and crud from around the nipples at each tie rod end.
8. Using a hand operated, low pressure grease gun loaded with a suitable chassis
grease, grease the linkage until the old grease begins to squeeze out around the
tie rod ends.
9. Wipe off the nipples and any excess grease. Also grease the nipples on the
steering idler arms.
Use chassis grease on the parking brake cable where it contacts the cable guides, levers
and linkage.
Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the kickdown and shift linkage points at
7500 mile (12,000 km) intervals.
Engine
Avoid prolonged skin contact with used motor oil.

Remove oil from skin by washing thoroughly with soap and water or waterless
hand cleaner. Do not use gasoline, thinners or other solvents.
Avoid prolonged skin contact with oil-soaked clothing.
OIL LEVEL CHECK

Every time you stop for fuel, check the engine oil as follows:
1. Park the truck on level ground.
2. When checking the oil level it is best for the engine to be at operating
temperature, although checking the oil immediately after a stopping will lead to
a false reading. Wait a few minutes after turning off the engine to allow the oil to
drain back into the crankcase.
3. Open the hood and locate the dipstick which is on the left side of the engine.
Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean and reinsert it.
4. Pull the dipstick out again and, holding it horizontally, read the oil level. The oil
should be between the FULL or OPERATING RANGE and ADD or ADD OIL
marks on the dipstick.
5. If the oil is below the ADD mark, add oil of the proper viscosity through the
capped opening on the top of the cylinder head cover. See the "Oil and Fuel
Recommendations" chart in this section for the proper viscosity and rating of oil
to use.
6. Reinsert the dipstick and check the oil level again after adding any oil. Be
careful not to overfill the crankcase. Approximately one quart of oil will raise
the level from the ADD to the FULL. Excess oil will generally be consumed at
an accelerated rate.
Fig. 1: Remove the oil dipstick and check the oil

level
Fig. 2: Remove the oil filler cap
Fig. 3: Using a funnel, add the proper grade and

viscosity of oil
OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
The oil should be changed every 7500 miles (12,000 km). General Motors recommends
changing the oil filter with every other oil change; we suggest that the filter be changed
with every oil change. There is approximately 1 quart of dirty oil left remaining in the
old oil filter if it is not changed! A few dollars more every year seems a small price to
pay for extended engine life-so change the filter every time you change the oil!
The oil drain plug is located on the bottom, rear of the oil pan (bottom of the engine,
underneath the truck).
The mileage figures given are the recommended intervals assuming normal driving and
conditions. If your truck is being used under dusty, polluted or off-road conditions,
change the oil and filter more frequently than specified. The same goes for trucks driven
in stop-and-go traffic or only for short distances. Always drain the oil after the engine
has been running long enough to bring it to normal operating temperature. Hot oil will
flow easier and more contaminants will be removed along with the oil than if it were
drained cold. To change the oil and filter:
If the engine is equipped with an oil cooler, this will also have to be drained, using the
drain plug. Be sure to add enough oil to fill the cooler in addition to the engine.
1. Warm the oil by running the engine for a short period of time or at least until the
needle on the temperature gauge rises above the C mark. This will make the oil
flow more freely from the oil pan.
2. Park on a level surface, apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
3. Stop the engine. Raise the hood and remove the oil filler cap from the top of the
valve cover. This allows the air to enter the engine as the oil drains. Remove the
dipstick, wipe it off and set it aside.
4. Position a suitable oil drain pan under the drain plug.
All diesel and gasoline engines hold approximately 5-8 quarts of oil (give or take), so
choose a drain pan that exceeds this amount to allow for movement of the oil when the
pan is pulled from under the vehicle. This will prevent time lost to the cleaning up of
messy oil spills.
5. With the proper size socket or wrench (DO NOT use pliers or vise grips), loosen
the drain plug. Back out the drain plug while maintaining a slight upward force
on it to keep the oil from running out around it (and your hand). Allow the oil to
drain into the drain pan.
Fig. 4: With the proper size socket, loosen the

drain plug
Fig. 5: Remove the drain plug while maintaining

a slight upward force, to keep the oil from running out prematurely
CAUTION
The engine oil will be hot. Keep your arms, face and hands away from the oil as it is
draining.
6. Remove the drain pan and wipe any excess oil from the area around the hole
using a clean rag.
7. Clean the threads of the drain plug and the drain plug gasket to remove any
sludge deposits that may have accumulated.
8. Place the drain pan under the oil filter location to prevent spilling any oil from
the filter on to the ground.
9. With a filter wrench, loosen the oil filter counterclockwise and back the filter off
the filter post the rest of the way by hand. Keep the filter end up so that the oil
does not spill out. Tilt the filter into the drain pan to drain the oil.
10. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle and position it off to the side.
11. With a clean rag, wipe off the filter seating surface to ensure a proper seal. Make
sure that the old gasket is not stuck to the seating surface. If it is, remove it and
thoroughly clean the seating surface of the old gasket material.
12. Open a container of new oil and smear some of this oil onto the rubber gasket of
the new oil filter. Get a feel for where the filter post is and start the filter by hand
until the gasket contacts the seat. Turn the filter an additional 3/4 turn with your
hand.
Fig. 6: With a filter wrench, loosen the oil filter

counterclockwise
Fig. 7: Before installing a new oil filter, coat the

rubber gasket with clean oil
13. Install the drain plug and metal gasket. Be sure that the plug is tight enough that
the oil does not leak out, but not tight enough to strip the threads. Over time you
will develop a sense of what the proper tightness of the drain plug is. If a torque
wrench is available, tighten the plug to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Replace the drain plug gasket at every third or fourth oil change.
14. Through a suitable plastic or metal funnel, add clean new oil of the proper grade
and viscosity through the oil filler on the top of the valve cover. Be sure that the
oil level registers near the (full) mark on the dipstick.
15. Install and tighten the oil filler cap.
16. Start the engine and allow it to run for several minutes. Check for leaks at the
filter and drain plug. Sometimes leaks will not be revealed until the engine
reaches normal operating temperature.
17. Stop the engine and recheck the oil level. Add oil as necessary.
When you have finished this job, you will notice that you now possess several quarts of
dirty oil. The best thing to do with it is to pour it into plastic jugs, such as milk or antifreeze containers. Then, find a gas station or service garage which accepts waste oil for
recycling and dispose of it there.
Front Wheel Bearings

Only the front wheel bearings require periodic maintenance. A premium high melting
point grease meeting GM specification 6031-M must be used. Long fiber type greases
must not be used. This service is recommended at the intervals in the Maintenance
Intervals Chart or whenever the truck has been driven in water up to the hubs.
Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and
not to do.
Remember to do the following:
Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.
Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.
Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.
Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.
Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.
Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.
Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.
Use clean rags to wipe bearings.
Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.
Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.
Do not do the following:

Don't work in dirty surroundings.
Don't use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.
Try not to work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.
Don't handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.
Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent.
Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.
Do not spin dirty bearings.
Avoid using cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.
Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces.
Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.
REMOVAL, PACKING & INSTALLATION

Sodium-based grease is not compatible with lithium-based grease. Read the package
labels and be careful not to mix the two types. If there is any doubt as to the type of
grease used, completely clean the old grease from the bearing and hub before replacing.
2-Wheel Drive
Fig. 1: Front hub and bearing components-2WD
Fig. 2: Pry the dust cap from the hub taking care
not to distort or damage its flange
Fig. 3: Once the bent ends are cut, grasp the

cotter pin and pull or pry it free of the spindle
Fig. 4: If difficulty is encountered, gently tap on

the pliers with a hammer to help free the cotter pin
4. Pry out the grease cap, remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer, then
remove the hub. Do not drop the wheel bearings.

5. Remove the outer roller bearing assembly from the hub. The inner bearing
assembly will remain in the hub and may be removed after prying out the inner
seal. Discard the seal.
To install:
driven out from the inside out. When installing new races, make sure that they
are not cocked and that they are fully seated against the hub shoulder.
they may be packed by hand.
9. Place a healthy glob of grease in the palm of one hand and force the edge of the
bearing into it so that the grease fills the bearing. Do this until the whole bearing
is packed.
10. Place the inner bearing in the hub and install a new inner seal, making sure that
the seal flange faces the bearing race.
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the castellated nut

from the spindle
Fig. 6: Remove the washer from the spindle
Fig. 7: With the nut and washer out of the way,

the outer bearing may be removed from the hub
Fig. 8: Pull the hub and inner bearing assembly

from the spindle
Fig. 9: Use a small prytool to remove the old

inner bearing seal
Fig. 10: With the seal removed, the inner bearing

may be withdrawn from the hub
Fig. 11: Thoroughly pack the bearing with fresh,

high temperature wheel-bearing grease before installation
Fig. 12: Apply a thin coat of fresh grease to the

new inner bearing seal lip
Fig. 13: Use a suitably sized driver to install the

inner bearing seal to the hub
Fig. 14: Tighten the nut to specifications while

gently spinning the wheel, then adjust the bearing
Fig. 15: After the bearings are adjusted, install

the dust cap by gently tapping on the flange
11. Carefully install the wheel hub over the spindle.
12. Using your hands, firmly press the outer bearing into the hub. Install the spindle
washer and nut.
13. Spin the wheel hub by hand and tighten the nut until it is just snug; 12 ft. lbs. (16
Nm).
14. Back off the nut until it is loose, then tighten it finger tight. Loosen the nut until
either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut and insert a new cotter
pin.
15. There should be 0.001-0.005 in. (0.025-0.127mm) end-play on 1988-90 models.
On 1991-98 models, end-play should be 0.005-0.008 in. (0.013-0.20mm) on HD
models. This can be measured with a dial indicator, if you wish.
16. Replace the dust cap, wheel and tire.

4-Wheel Drive
V-SERIES
Fig. 16: Exploded view of the V10/1500 and

V20/2500 series front hub and bearing assembly
Fig. 17: Exploded view of the V30/3500 series

front hub and bearing assembly
Fig. 18: V-series hub nut wrench

Before starting you'll need a special wheel bearing nut socket for your 1/2 inch drive
ratchet. These sockets are available through auto parts stores and catalogs. You can't
do this job properly without it! You'll also need a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench, a clean
container, like a shoe box, for the parts as you remove them and PLENTY of paper
towels handy.
3. Remove the hubs. See the Section 7.

4. Wipe the inside of the hub to remove as much grease as possible.
5. Using your bearing nut socket, remove the locknut from the spindle.
6. With the locknut off you'll be able to see the locking ring on the adjusting nut.
Remove the locking ring. A tool such as a dental pick will make this easier.
7. Using the special socket, remove the bearing adjusting nut.
You'll notice that the adjusting nut and the locknut are almost identical. The difference
is, the adjusting nut has a small pin on one side which indexes with a hole in the locking
ring. DO NOT CONFUSE THE TWO NUTS!
8. Dismount the brake caliper and suspend it out of the way, without disconnecting
the brake line. See .

9. Pull the hub off of the spindle. The outer bearing will tend to fall out as soon as
it clears the spindle, so have a hand ready to catch it.
10. If you are going to reuse the outer bearing, place it on a clean surface.
11. Position the hub, face up, on 2 wood blocks placed under opposite sides of the
rotor. Have a paper towel positioned under the hub.

12. Using a hardened wood dowel or a hammer handle, drive out the inner bearing
and seal. If your are going to reuse the inner bearing, move it to a clean area.
Discard the seal.
13. If the bearings are being replaced, you'll have to replace the races. The races are
pressed into the hub, but you can drive them out. With the hub in position on the
blocks, use a long drift and hammer evenly around the outside diameter of the
inner bearing race until it is free. Discard the race. Turn the hub over and repeat
this procedure for the outer bearing race.
14. wash the bearings in a non-flammable solvent and let them air-dry. Never use
compressed air to spin-dry the bearings!

15. If either bearing shows any sign of damage, rust, heat blueing or excessive
looseness, both bearings in that hub must be replaced as a set. If bearings are
replaced, the races MUST be replaced also!
If the bearings show signs of heat blueing, wipe the spindle clean and check for heat
blueing on the spindle surface. If the spindle shows large areas of heat blueing, it
should be replaced.
16. Wash out the hub with solvent and wipe it clean. Check the races. If they show
signs of wear, pitting, cracking, rusting or heat blueing, they, along with the
bearings, must be replaced.
17. Coat the race and its bore in the hub with high temperature wheel bearing
grease.
18. Position the race in the bore and start gently tapping it into place. There are
drivers made for this purpose, but you can do it with a blunt drift and hammer.
Just tap evenly around the race as you drive it into place so that it doesn't cock in
the bore.
19. Drive the race in until it is fully seated against the shoulder in the bore. You can
tell that it's fully seated in two ways:
a. Your hammer blows will sound differently when the race seats against
the shoulder.
b. The grease you applied to the bore will be squeezed out below the race as
the race seats against the shoulder.
Either race can be installed first.
20. Pack the bearings thoroughly with high temperature wheel bearing grease. An
inexpensive wheel bearing packing tool is available at most auto parts stores.
The tool has a grease fitting which utilizes a grease gun and completely packs
the bearing. You can, however, pack a bearing reasonably well without the tool:
a. Open the container of grease.
b. Force the bearing down into the container, first on one side, then the
other, until grease squeezes out among the rollers.
c. Place a large blob of grease in the palm of one hand and force the
bearing into the grease to squeeze out any air cavities among the rollers.
When you're satisfied that each bearing is completely packed, place them
on a clean paper towel, in a clean area, and cover them with another
clean paper towel.
21. Pack the area of the hub, between the races, with wheel bearing grease.
22. Place the inner bearing in its race and position a new seal in the hub bore. Gently
tap around the outer diameter of the seal with a plastic mallet until the seal is
flush with the end of the bore.
23. Carefully place the hub assembly on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging
the seal on the spindle threads. Make sure the hub is all the way on the spindle.
24. Place the outer bearing on the spindle and slide it into place in its race.
25. Thread the adjusting nut on the spindle until it contacts the outer bearing.
WARNING
Make sure you are using the adjusting nut. Remember, it has a small pin on one side.
That pin must face outwards, towards you!
26. Using the special socket and the torque wrench:
a. Tighten the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (67 Nm) while rotating the hub.
b. Back off the adjusting nut until it is loose.
c. While rotating the hub, tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm) for
automatic locking hubs or 50 ft. lbs. (67 Nm) for manual locking hubs.
d. Back off the adjusting nut 1/4-3/8 of a turn for automatic hubs or 1/6-1/4 of a
turn for manual hubs.
27. Coat the locking ring with wheel bearing grease. Place the locking ring on the
spindle. There is a tab on the inner diameter of the ring which must fit in the slot
on the top of the spindle. Slide the locking ring in until it contacts the adjusting
nut. The pin on the adjusting nut must enter one of the holes in the locking ring.
You can tell that the locking ring is seated properly when you see the grease on
the ring get pushed out of one of the holes by the pin, and the ring does not rock
from side-to-side when you press on either side with your finger. If the locking
ring and pin don't index, take note of how far off they are, pull the ring off the
spindle and turn the nut, either by hand or with the socket, just enough for a
good fit. Try the locking ring again.
28. When the locking ring engages the adjusting nut pin properly, your bearing
adjustment is set. Thread the locknut onto the spindle until it contacts the
locking ring.
29. Tighten the locknut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (216 Nm). This locknut ensures that
the locking ring and adjusting nut don't move. Over-tightening the locknut has
no effect on the bearing adjustment.
30. Install the locking hub.
31. Install the caliper.
K-SERIES
These axles have integral hub/bearing assemblies. No periodic service is required. See
for disassembly details.
Front and Rear Drive Axles

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
Front axles use SAE 80W-90, GL-5 Gear Lubricant. Rear axles use SAE 80W-90 gear
oil. Posi-traction axles must use special lubricant available from dealers and most auto
parts stores. If the special fluid is not used, noise, uneven operation, and damage will
result. There is also a Posi-traction additive used to cure noise and slippage. Positraction axles have an identifying tag, as well as a warning sticker near the jack or on
the rear wheel well.
FLUID LEVEL CHECK
See Figures 1 and 2
The oil level in the front and/or rear differentials should be checked at least twice a year.
If driven in deep water it should be checked immediately afterward. The fluid level in
the front axle should be 1/2 in. (13mm) below the filler plug opening. The fluid level in
the rear axle should be up to the bottom of the filler plug opening. Lubricant may be
added with a suction gun or squeeze bulb.
1. Park on level ground.
2. Remove the filler plug from the differential housing cover.
Fig. 1: The rear differential filler plug may be in

either of these locations
3. If lubricant trickles out there is enough. If not, carefully insert a finger and check
that the level is up to the bottom of the hole. Locking front hubs should be run in
the LOCK position for at least 10 miles (6 km) each month to assure proper
lubrication to the front axle.
4. Fill with the proper fluid, install the plug and tighten to:
REAR:
8 1/2 in.-25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

9 1/2 and 10 1/2 in.-19 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
9 3/4-10 1/2 in.-10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm)
12 in.-35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)
FRONT:
All- 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Fig. 2: If necessary, fill with the proper fluid

DRAIN AND REFILL
Fig. 3: Using a wire brush, clean the bolts and

edges of the differential cover
No intervals are specified for changing axle lubricant, but it is a good idea every year or
so. If you have driven in water over the axle vents, change the fluid immediately.
1. Park the vehicle on the level with the axles at normal operating temperature.
2. Place a pan of at least 6 pints capacity under the differential housing.
3. Remove the filler plug.
4. If you have a drain plug, remove it. If not, unbolt and remove the differential
cover.
5. Install the drain plug, or differential cover. Use a new gasket if the differential
cover has been removed.
6. Install the drain plug and tighten it so it will not leak. Do not overtighten.
It is usually a good idea to replace the gasket at this time.

7. Refill the differential with the proper lubricant-do not overfill!
8. Install the filler plug and tighten both plugs to:
REAR:
81/2 in.-25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
91/2 and 101/2 in.-19 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
93/4-101/2 in.-10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm)
12 in.-35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)
FRONT:
All: 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
9. Road test the truck and check for any leaks.
Fig. 4: After removing the bolts, carefully pry the

bottom of the cover off and drain the fluid
Fig. 5: After the oil has drained, remove the

differential cover
Power Steering Pump

FLUID RECOMMENDATION
Use GM Power Steering fluid, or its equivalent.
FLUID LEVEL CHECK
Check the dipstick in the pump reservoir when the fluid is at operating temperature. The
fluid should be between the HOT and COLD marks. If the fluid is at room temperature,
the fluid should be between the ADD and COLD marks. The fluid does not require
periodic changing.
On systems with a remote reservoir, the level should be maintained approximately 1/2-1
in. (13-25mm) from the top with the wheels in the full left turn position.
Fig. 1: Remove the power steering pump dipstick
Fig. 2: Hold the dipstick horizontally and check

the power steering fluid level
Fig. 3: Add power steering fluid to the pump and

fill it to the proper level

Diagnosis and Testing Blazer

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BLAZER

MANUAL CHEVROLET BLAZER 1998.

Fuel Poor Economy

Engine misses under load or while accelerating

Fig. 1: Ignition coil testing points

Fig. 1: Mark the distributor and tag the spark

Fig. 2: A distributor wrench can be used to

Fig. 3: Remove the distributor hold-down bolt

Fig. 4: Be sure to mark the distributor position

9. Engage the electrical connections and the spark plug wires.

Fig. 1: Ignition coil mounting-4.3L engines

Fig. 2: Ignition coil mounting-5.0 and 5.7L

Fig. 3: Ignition coil mounting-7.4L engines

Fig. 3: 1988-95 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines

Fig. 4: 1996-98 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines

Description And Operation

The General Motors HEI system is a pulse-triggered, transistorized controlled, inductive

Fig. 1: Distributor components-coil-in-cap

Fig. 2: Distributor components-coil separate

Diagnosis and Testing

Fuel Poor Economy

Engine misses under load or while accelerating

Fig. 1: Fuel injected engine ignition coil test

Fig. 2: The pick-up coil is located inside the

Fig. 3: Testing the pick-up coil-coil-in-cap

Fig. 4: Testing the pick-up coil-separate coil

3. Remove the 4 coil cover-to-distributor cap screws and coil cover.

Fig. 1: Check the condition of the arc seal under

Fig. 2: Be careful not to break the locktabs when

Fig. 1: Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with

Vacuum Advance Unit

Auxiliary Fan Switch

Coolant Temperature Sender

Fig. 1: Coolant temperature and oil pressure

Fig. 2: Coolant temperature and oil pressure

Fig. 3: Coolant temperature and oil pressure

Fig. 4: Coolant temperature and oil pressure

Oil Pressure Sender

5. If the gauge reads functions properly, replace the sender.

SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS

Fig. 1: Starter mounting location-4.8L engines

Fig. 2: Starter mounting location-4.3L and 5.0L

Fig. 3: Starter mounts-5.7L and 7.4L engines

Thru-bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

Nut (gas): 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)

Nut (diesel): 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Thru-bolts: 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)

Nut (diesel): 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm)

7. Reconnect all wires.

Fig. 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable

Fig. 5: Remove the starter retaining bolts

Fig. 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)

Fig. 1: Coolant temperature sensor location

Fig. 2: Submerge the end of the coolant

Fig. 3: Coolant temperature sensor wiring

Fig. 4: Coolant temperature sensor temperature

Electronic Control Module (ECM)

Fig. 1: Knock sensor wiring diagram

6. Connect the negative battery cable

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor

Fig. 1: MAP sensor-4.3L engines

Fig. 2: MAP sensor-5.0L and 5.7L engines

Fig. 3: MAP sensor-7.4L engines