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Nuno (Laminate) Felt Scarf

Feltmaking is defined as the formation of cloth by the irreversible tangling of wool fibers using moisture, heat and friction.
Wool has microscopic scales along its length that grab irreversibly on to one another when subjected to moisture (warm,
soapy water) and friction (rubbing).
Nuno or laminate felting is the process of migrating wool fibers through sheer cloth and then felting the fibers permanently
in place. In this project, the wool fibers are placed randomly on the fabric and a few simple designs are also created. As
the wool fibers migrate closer together during the felting process the silk fabric has no where to go which creates the
crinkled affect in the final cloth.
The Wool Preparation
Merino Wool is very fine wool and often is found as a preparation called top. Wool fibers are placed in a linear
arrangement with all of the short and irregular fibers removed. The result is a continuous length of overlapping fibers in a
long tubular shape. Always make sure the wool fibers being used are fine enough to migrate through the weave of your
selected fabric.
The Fabric
The fabric used in this project is hand dyed china silk. It is important to select fabric that is porous enough for the wool
fibers to migrate through. Generally, any fabric that can be held to your mouth and blown through can be used. In the
beginning I suggest using very open weave fabrics such as cotton or silk gauze. Synthetic fabrics may also be used but
very slick fabrics can be problematic.
Supplies
Please Do Not
Wool (1 -2 ounces)
Silk Fabric (11 inches x 7 feet)
Copy or Distribute
Bubble Wrap or Pool Cover
Swim Noodle or Rolling Rod
Curtain Sheer or Slippery Fabric
Liquid Dish Soap, Castille Soap, etc..
Towels
Sample, Sample, Sample
I have found over the years that nuno felting comes easily to a few feltmakers and many others find it to be a difficult
learning curve. I suggest that you first do a small sample square of fabric placed in the middle of your bubble wrap and
following the nuno felting steps below. Once you are successful repeat the process with a full length scarf.
Layout
Iron the wrinkles out of the silk fabric and lay it onto the bubble wrap (bubbles facing
up).
Pull off about a 6 section of wool top. Hint: first take a tiny wisp of fiber from the end
of the wool top and make note of its length. If your hands are closer together than
the length of the fiber you will not be able to pull the top apart and you will need to
space your hands farther apart. Divide the 6 section of top into about 3rds and lay
the wool onto the silk fabric in very light wisps.

Lori Flood Felted Fibers

www.spinsterstreadle.com

2007

Add other designs such as swirls, crisscrosses, and circles. Wet the project by carefully sprinkling soapy water onto the
wool and fabric. The water should be room temperature (not warm/hot!) with just enough soap to make the water slippery
between your fingers. Note: The goal is to get all of the wool and fabric thoroughly damp but because the bubbles of the
plastic are facing up there is a tendency to add too much water which then flows out from between the bubbles and goes
everywhere! Go easy on the water or have lots of towels!

Roll the project onto the swim noodle and tie the bundle with string or old pantyhose legs. Do not tie in knots! You will
need to unroll and check the project often and hard knots will make that difficult. Roll the bundle back and forth on the
table with gentle pressure for 5 minutes. Carefully unroll the bundle and re-roll from the opposite end. The inside felts
faster than the outside of the bundle so switching ends evens out the felting progress. Keep rolling, checking, switching
ends, and re-rolling at 5 10 minute intervals for 30 40 minutes. This time is an estimate and it will vary for each
feltmaker.

Over this time the wool fibers will migrate through the fabric and
begin to felt together. This will be evident by observing the fibers
coming through the backside of the cloth and a fused appearance
to the wool on the silk fabric.

Please Do Not
Copy or Distribute

Lori Flood Felted Fibers

www.spinsterstreadle.com

2007

However, the wool fibers are only lightly felted to the cloth at this time and the scarf needs to be fulled for durability.
Fulling is the act of tangling the fibers further to the point that there is no shifting of fibers in the cloth. For this project
fulling is best achieved by lightly tossing/dropping the damp scarf repeatedly. Periodically spread the scarf out and gently
shape it. Then gather it up and toss it again. Repeat until the scarf has the desired crinkle to its surface.

When complete, rinse the soap out of the scarf and shape to dry.

Please Do Not
Copy or Distribute

Lori Flood Felted Fibers

www.spinsterstreadle.com

2007

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