Use of Herbs in Skin Hair and Health Care Products

The Aromantic Guide
to the use of ...
Herbs
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products
Kolbjorn Borseth
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
The Aromantic Guide

to the use of ...
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products

Kolbjorn Borseth
-1-
Precaution
The information published here is not intended as a substitute for personal medical advice. Before making
any decision regarding your health, please consult a physician, medical herbalist or other qualified health
care practitioner. Pregnant women, the elderly or those with difficult medical conditions should be
particularly careful when taking herbs internally or applying them externally. Its a good idea to let your
GP know that you are considering the use of herbs as some herbs may cross-react with some of the
conventional drugs you are taking. Report any side effects to your health care practitioner.
Disclaimer
This information is provided for our customers and is obtained from a variety of sources, including: the
research, knowledge and experience of Kolbjorn Borseth; Lilly Johansson; books; and the Internet. While
we have obviously done our utmost to provide correct information, there may be errors.
USA: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These
products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form including digital
reproduction without the prior written consent of the Publisher.
Published by Aromantic Ltd
17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland.
Tel: (01309) 696900 Fax: (01309) 696911
E-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk
Website: www.aromantic.co.uk
Copyright 2006 - Aromantic
ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9
2
Welcome
Welcome to the revised, updated and much expanded Aromantics Guide to the use of Herbs as
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products. Formerly known as Aromantics Education Pack 3, this
updated Guide will help you to maximise the use of 37 common herbs in the making of your own
Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care products.
It is an excellent addition to the other Aromantic Guides as it again helps you to take your health
and beauty into your hands. While I recommend that you attend an Aromantic education course
or consult other Aromantic Guides or Recipe Brochures to gain the necessary know-how, this
Guide contains the basic information and general methods you need to make many fantastic
products.
For our American readers, we have included Metric-US conversion tables. The measurement that
most of our American customers have trouble with is ml, which stands for millilitre. I
understand that most measuring jugs in America have ml on one side and oz (fluid ounces) on the
other side. Also we refer to g for grams. Buying a sensitive gram scale that can detect 1g may
prove to be very helpful to all of our readers and customers, wherever you may live.
I hope you will find this Guide useful in making your own professional, natural products with the
real healing benefits that herbs can offer, whether youre making gifts for friends or for selling to
your clients.
Enjoy the adventure.
Acknowledgements...
I would like to thank the people who made this book possible. My great Swedish mentor, Lilly
Johansson, who taught me so much about complementary health and natural healing methods.
Many of the Compress Recipes in this book I owe to Lillys knowledge. Over 30,000 patients
attended Lillys hospital, Follingegaarden for 30 years, from the mid-1960s.
I wish to thank Susan Kemp, the researcher, editor, proofreader and my ghost writer another
job done with your usual high standards.
Of course, even the most interesting information can be boring if not presented correctly.
Stewart Noble, who has worked closely with me for many years, has done great justice to the
information with his beautiful and clear design work.
Last but not least William Youssi, who, in his lovely drawings, captures the spirit of the stars of
the book itself, the plants.
Thank you all for your hard work and dedication.
Kolbjorn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic
-3-
Contents...
Welcome and Acknowledgements
Herbal medicine traditions
Constituents of herbs
The skin, hair and nails
How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products
How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your recipes
Tinctures
Herbal CO2 Extracts
Hydrolates
Macerated Herb Oils
Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty
Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems
Skin Toners
Compresses, Poultices and Plasters
Poultices
Gels and Creams
Ointments, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents
A description of Herbs and their application
Aloe
Arnica
Birch
Chamomile
Chickweed
Cleavers
Comfrey
Coltsfoot
Cornflower
Dandelion
Echinacea
Elderflower
Eyebright
Ginkgo
Ginseng
Horse Chestnut
Horseradish
Horsetail
Hyssop
Ladys Mantle
Lavender
Lemon Balm
Marigold
Myrrh
Nettle, Stinging
Orris Root
Peppermint
Plantain
Rose
Rosemary
Sage
St. Johns Wort
Thyme
Tormentilla Root
Wild Pansy
Witch Hazel
Yarrow
Glossary
Metric US Conversion Tables
Bibliography
Biographies and List of Suppliers
4
3
5
5
10
11
11
12
12
13
13
14
16
16
17
19
20
22
23
25
27
29
31
33
34
36
37
38
39
41
42
44
45
46
47
49
50
52
53
55
56
58
59
62
63
64
66
68
70
72
74
76
77
79
80
82
85
86
87
Herbal medicine traditions...

Herbalism is the oldest form of medicine and extends right back to the earliest history of
mankind. All cultures have long folk medicine traditions that include the use of herbs and plants.
Even in ancient cultures, people methodically collected information on herbs and developed welldefined herbal pharmacopoeias.
The ancient Egyptian priests, who were the physicians in that culture and time, prescribed many
remedies used today, such as Olive Oil, Myrrh and Juniper Berries. The first European botanical
author in our recorded history was probably the Greek, Theophrastos Eresios, who lived from
about 370BC - 285BC. Many other famous European authors followed, such as Galen, Paracelsus,
Gerard, and Culpeper, to name a few.
Well into the 20th century, and still today, much of the pharmacopoeia of scientific medicine was
derived from the herbal lore of native peoples. Many drugs commonly used today are of herbal
origin. Indeed, about one-quarter of the prescription drugs dispensed by community pharmacies
in the United States contain at least one active ingredient derived from plant material. So, the
roots of herbalism lie in the ancient past and still play an essential role in our healing traditions
and will continue to do so on our journey into the future.
Constituents of herbs...
The active constituents of herbs are those substances, which perform a specific therapeutic
function. Herbs are very chemically complex and they contain thousands of biologically active
compounds over and above their everyday components and metabolites, which are called
primary compounds. The primary compounds, such as carbohydrates, lipids, nucleotides and
peptides are shared by all living organisms and are central to life processes. The secondary
compounds are derived from primary compounds, but are not central to metabolism, hence their
name.
These chemical constituents of plants, often called phytochemicals, act in synergy, creating a
greater therapeutic power together than if on their own. This synergy also tends to counteract
the possible side effects of an individual component. Where there are several active ingredients, a
herb may be used for different purposes. St John's Wort, for instance, enhances mood and is also
anti-inflammatory and antiviral.
Numerous studies indicate that phytochemicals in herbs and spices may be accountable for their
health effects. Different herbs each contain a wide variety of active phytochemicals and
constituents.
The chemically distinct, but often overlapping, classes of constituents are mainly:
Terpenoids such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenes, tetraterpenes,
saponins, iridoids, carotenoids and steroids.
Phenolic Acids such as tannins, gallic acid, ellagic acids, capsaicin, rosmarinic acid, quinones,
salicylates and lignins.
Glycosides such as flavonoids, glucosinolates and cyanogens.
Phytosterols such as beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, delta-7stigmasterol and delta-7-avenasterol.
Alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
-5-
Polysaccharides such as gums and mucilages.

Peptides combinations of amino acids. Peptides combine to make proteins, including antigens.
Also of interest are Essential Oils, Resins, Vitamins, Minerals, Acids, Antibiotics and Heterosides,
which often contain several of the above constituent classes.
Despite the widespread use of medicinal herbs, much research is still required to identify the
active constituents and understand their mode of action but the medical and folk herbalist
traditions from around the world have gone through a lot of trial and error to discover the wellaccepted benefits of herbs we know about today.
More about some of the constituents found in herbs...

Alkaloids
Usually derivatives of amino acids, an alkaloid is a nitrogenous organic molecule that has a
pharmacological effect on humans and other animals. The name derives from the word alkaline;
originally, the term was used to describe any nitrogen-containing base (an amine in modern
terms). Alkaloids are found as secondary metabolites in plants (e.g. in potatoes and tomatoes),
animals (e.g. in shellfish) and fungi, and can be extracted from their sources by treatment with
acids (usually hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid, though organic acids such as maleic acid and
citric acid are sometimes used).
Even though many alkaloids are poisonous (such as strychnine or coniine), some are used in
medicine as analgesics (pain relievers) or anaesthetics, as sedatives, vasoconstrictors and as
antispasmodics particularly morphine and codeine. Other well-known alkaloids are morphine,
cocaine, strychnine, quinine, codeine, solanine, and of course, nicotine.
Most alkaloids have a very bitter taste and act primarily on the central nervous system. Alkaloids
are approximately 2/3 fat-soluble and are readily absorbed by the body through the mucous
membranes and also partly through healthy skin. Herbs with a high alkaloid content should not be
used in Skin Care products.
Bitter Principle
Herbs that taste bitter act as stimulating tonics for the digestive system. Bitter principle is a
group of chemicals that have a severely bitter taste. Bitter tasting compounds cause a reflex in
the taste buds which stimulates the secretion of saliva, digestive juices and secretions from the
gall bladder and also to stimulate the liver, helping hepatic elimination. Bitter herbs offer excellent
health benefits and should be taken for that reason every day as a tonic. The taking of bitter
herbs as a daily tonic is not as popular as it once was, leading to a craving for sweet tasting foods.
Examples of herbs with a high bitter principle are Devils Claw, Hops, Burdock, Dandelion, etc.
and are easily dissolved in warm water. Herbs with a high Bitter principle content should not be
used in Skin Care products.
Glycosides
Consist of a sweet and non-sweet component. The non-sweet component determines the
glycoside's pharmacological properties. Some of the better known glycosides include cardiac
glycoside found in foxglove and lily of the valley and flavonoid glycoside found in buckwheat.
Glycosides are normally not absorbed by the skin. They are generally either water or alcohol
soluble.
6
Saponins are glycosides with a distinctive foaming characteristic, which are particularly useful in
Skin and Hair Care products. Saponins are natural surfactants, or detergents, found in many
plants, and so are used in Shampoos, as well as Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles.
Saponins are also used as foaming agents in drinks such as root beer (popular in America), in
improving the head in beer, etc. They are also used in fire extinguishers as a foam producer and
in photographic emulsions. They can be used in industry and mining for activities such as ore
separation.
They reduce the surface tension in a water solution and have cleansing, antifungal, antibacterial,
emollient and emulsifying properties, which are important properties for cosmetic applications.
They can be used to increase reabsorption of substances (e.g. medicines and minerals) in the
mucous membranes and partially in the skin. Saponins are antiseptic and dissolve carbohydrates
and scabs. They help other glycosides to dissolve in water and are themselves water soluble.
Generally they are not absorbed by the skin when it is unbroken. Saponins are found in Birch
Leaves, Cowslip, Wild Pansy, Horsetail, Yucca, Soapbark and Soapwort. To extract saponins from
herbs and roots they must be boiled for 15-20 minutes.
Carbohydrates
These are fructooligosaccharides (FOS), immunomodulating polysaccharides, gums, mucilages,
dietary fibres, cellulose, pectin, & organic acids. When combined with water, carbohydrates form
viscous compounds producing a variety of runny to more solid Gels. They can be used externally
for infections and inflammations and internally in the mouth, throat, stomach and digestive tract
where they coat the skin or mucous membranes with a protective film or barrier against
mechanical or chemical damage. They relieve pain, are cooling and emollient (softening). They are
easily dissolved in water. Some are used as Emulsifiers and Thickening Agents. Some examples of
herbs with a high carbohydrate content are: Coltsfoot, Lime Blossom, Linseed, Agar-agar,
Carrageen, Gum Tragacanth, Gum Arabic, Guar Gum, etc.
Tannins
A group of chemical compounds that occur naturally in some herbs, teas, fruits, such as red
grapes, and in tree bark and wood part of a larger group of substances called phenolics. The
most important common property of tannins is that they form insoluble bonds with proteins.
They bind (chelate) albumen, a protein which is found in both the skin and mucus membranes,
forming a layer of protection against infection and irritation. This in turn prevents infecting
organisms from invading the body, and helps to hasten the healing process. They increase the
affected tissue's ability to resist infections and reduce its vulnerability to chemical or mechanical
damage. They also reduce redness and swelling in cases of inflammation. Tannins are antiseptic
because they inhibit bacterial growth. They reduce sensitivity in the skin and mucous membranes
and therefore alleviate pain. This shuts out bacteria and hastens the healing of sores and inflamed
mucous membranes and skin. Used in its pure form, at full strength, it tans leather. In lower
concentrations in plants, and in their natural context together with other substances such as
sugars, starches and other viscous substances, tannins normally have a mild and superficially
astringent effect on the skin and mucous membranes.
Their astringent and antiseptic properties make them ideal for sore throat Gargles, diarrhoea,
Wound Compresses, weepy rashes, and more. Tannins also offer antioxidant protection. Some
herbs high in tannins are Witch Hazel, White Oak Bark, Tormentilla, Plantain and Red Raspberry,
Condurango, Willow, Cinnamon, Queen of the Meadow, and black or green tea.
-7-
Some examples of herbs high in tannins in more detail:

Oak Bark: highly astringent and used for haemorrhoids and, internally, for diarrhoea.
Witch Hazel: mildly astringent, used for Skin Toners, skin infections and haemorrhoid
preparations.
Tormentilla Root: used in Mouth Washes and Gargles and in Toothpaste for bleeding and
inflammation of the gums.
Blueberries: used internally for diarrhoea (needs to be boiled first).
There are also smaller quantities of tannins in St. John's Wort, Peppermint and Sage. The most
common tannins found in e.g. Oak Bark and Witch Hazel are water soluble. Others are more
difficult to dissolve. Tannins are not usually absorbed through the skin, but where there are large
open sores or burns they can be absorbed in quantities which can damage the liver, kidneys and
blood circulation.
Herbs containing tannins are used mainly for skin infections (acne), small sores, burns and
chilblains, to staunch bleeding (e.g. in haemorrhoids), for bleeding gums, inflammation in the
mouth and throat, and for weeping eczema. Herbs high in tannins should not be used for
extensive burns.
Other constituents
Apart from those already mentioned, there are other substances found in herbs which are of
lesser pharmaceutical importance. These are substances which can have a certain application or
which can negatively affect a Herbal Extract or finished product, e.g. certain pigments which
produce greys or lighter or darker green pigmentation in, for example, Shampoos or Skin
Creams. One example is the way too much Nettle in a Shampoo will produce a greyish-green
colour.
Fats and Waxes
Fats are esters which occur between fatty acids and the alcohol Glycerine. Waxes are esters
which occur between fatty acids and high molecular weight alcohols such as cetyl and myristyl
alcohols. Fats and Waxes are alcohol soluble (96%) and partially soluble in other Fats and Oils.
They are not water soluble but will melt in warm water. Not all of the components will dissolve
and those that do, will float on the surface of the water.
Resins and Balsams
Resin is usually a yellowish brown plant secretion of vegetable origin. Resins are soluble in Ether,
Alcohol, and Essential Oils, but not in water. Resins exude from trees along with Essential Oils,
Gums, etc, and are found in a liquid or semi-liquid state. They are composed of carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, and are supposed to be formed by the oxidation of the Essential Oils.
When mixed with Gum they form Gum Resins.
A Balsam is a solution of Resin in Essential Oil with a syrupy consistency. When a Balsam is
distilled in most cases a Resin and Essential Oil are produced (e.g. Gum Benzoin and Benzoin).
Balsams are alcohol soluble (96%), partially soluble in oil but difficult to dissolve in water. Types
of Balsam include Balsam Peru, Balsam Tolu and Galbanum Oil. Some of the Essential Oils
produced from Balsams include Myrrh, Frankincense and Benzoin.
Pigments
Pigments can be fat soluble, e.g. carotenoids, which are natural fat-soluble pigments found in
certain plants. Carotenoids, another name for carotenes, provide the bright red, orange, or
yellow coloration of many vegetables, serve as antioxidants, and can be a source for Vitamin A
activity.
Another fat-soluble pigment is xanthophyll, a yellow or orange pigment in plants that is
responsible for the production of carbohydrates by photosynthesis and when found in to be
found in certain plants in concentrations which produce certain pharmaceutical effects, as in
Marigold (Calendula). Other pigments are water soluble, e.g. chlorophyll, which in normal Herbal
Extracts has barely any effect on the skin.
Salicylic Acid
A glycoside, salicylic acid is a mild acid that works as a keratolytic agent i.e. it encourages the
sloughing of dead skin cells. It stimulates the peeling of the top layer of skin and the opening of
plugged follicles, which helps re-establish the normal skin-cell replacement cycle. For milder acne,
salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. Herbal Extracts containing
salicylic acid used topically in the right dosages have a pain-relieving, antibacterial effect.
Plants containing salicylic acid are mostly used internally for inflammations and externally in
liniments for rheumatic aches and muscle pain. The highest concentration of salicylic acid is to be
found in Wintergreen. Smaller quantities are found in plants like Meadowsweet and Willow Bark
in the form of phenol glycosides which become converted into salicylic acid in the body. Some
people are very sensitive to salicylics and can react strongly even to small doses.
Minerals
All plants contain different quantities of minerals. These can be extracted into water, for example
the silica from Horsetail and the iron from Stinging Nettles. Due to the size of their molecules,
Minerals are not always absorbed by unbroken skin. They can have a superficial, slight moisturebinding effect and certain minerals such as silica can soothe itchiness.
Vitamins
Most of the B vitamins are water soluble. Vitamin C is water soluble but is altered when boiled.
Water-soluble vitamins do not penetrate very far into the skin. They can have a certain moisturebinding effect. A and E vitamins are fat soluble and cannot be dissolved in water. In the quantities
in which they are to be found in the most common herbs, vitamins have hardly any effects on the
skin. The fat-soluble vitamins are very easily absorbed by the skin.
Proteins
Can have a certain moisture-binding effect on the skin. They do not penetrate the skin.
Enzymes
Become inert at temperatures between 50-70 C. They become altered when boiled.
Hormones
Most hormones are water soluble and tolerate heat. Other hormones such as oestrogen, e.g. in
Hops, are fat soluble and are best extracted into oil or alcohol. Fat-soluble hormones are easily
absorbed by the skin.
-9-
The Skin
The skin is a very important organ from the therapeutic and health and beauty standpoint.
The skin has two coats:
Epidermis the outer layer of skin you can actually see. This layer consists of stratified
epithelium in two sub-layers: the outer layer of dead keratinised cells; and the inner layer, which
is composed of epidermal living cells, gradually growing outwards to form keratin. This inner
layer of the epidermis also contains melanocytes, which are responsible for producing the
pigment, which gives rise to the colour of your skin.
Dermis the tough elastic layer that lies underneath the epidermis. Also known as the true
skin, it consists of an upper and lower dermis. Composed entirely of living cells, it consists of
bundles of tough elastin and collagen fibres which give your skin its elasticity, firmness and
strength. The dermis is also richly supplied with blood vessels and nerves, which feed vital
nutrients to feed the outer skin layer as well as regulating and facilitating body temperature.
The most important function of the dermis is respiration. The dermis also determines the tone of
the skin. The Lower Dermis is the innermost layer of the skin and where the various glands such
as the oil (sebum) and sweat glands originate. From here, they rise to the surface of the skin to
eliminate waste matter and also regulate temperature. The lower dermis also acts as a cushion
for the rest of the skin and contains the finely distributed muscles of the skin, which regulate
body temperature. Beneath these two coats lies a layer of fat cells, the Subcutaneous Layer.
The skin has a slightly acidic coating of oil at the surface. This coating protects the skin against
some bacteria. Below the surface is a complex of sweat and oil glands, hair follicles, blood vessels,
nerves, and muscle tissue. These are held together by tough connective tissue called collagen and
elastin.
Collagen and elastin are very important in determining the health of the skin. The relative
health of the collagen determines the contour of the skin, how wrinkled and lined it is. Healthy
collagen is often called soluble collagen, because it can absorb and hold moisture.
The problem of skin aging is not considered a medical problem. Since dermatology is restricted
to medical treatment in cases of skin diseases, cosmetics deal more with the maintenance and
improvement of skin condition.
The Hair...
The hair consists of modified eptihelium, growing from hair follicles in the skin. At the base of the
follicle, epithelial cells form the root, maintaining growth of hair. The sebaceous glands are small
saccular glands attached to the hair in the dermis. They secrete an oily substance called sebum,
which serves to lubricate the skin.
The Nails...
The nails are hard plates of modified epithelium, protecting the ends of fingers and toes. They
grow from the roots at the bases of the nails.
Note: Epithelium is a tissue composed of a layer of cells and can be found lining internal (e.g.
endothelium, which lines the inside of blood vessels) or external (e.g. skin) free surfaces of the
body. Functions of epithelial cells include secretion, absorption and protection.
10
How to prepare your Herbs for use in

Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products...
In this Guide you may find that I ask you to add a Herbal Infusion, a Herbal Decoction, or CO2
Extract of a certain herb as one of the ingredients in your products such as Shampoos, Creams,
Skin Toners, Pet Care products, Ointments, Hair Treatments, Toothpastes, etc. In addition, you
may be asked to make a Poultice or a Compress. Below you will find definitions of these terms
and, if appropriate, how to prepare them.
Infusions
An Infusion is made like a tea. If using a Herbal Infusion instead of boiling water in your Recipe,
make it as follows: Allow 2-3g dried herbs per 100ml water (please note that sometimes the
amount of dried herb used will vary according to strength needed). Pour boiling water over the
herbs. Cover and allow to stand for 10-20 minutes. Strain and use according to the Method in
the Recipe.
Decoctions
When using Horsetail, or the tougher parts of a plant like the roots, seeds, berries or the bark of
a plant, make a Decoction rather than an Infusion. Making a Decoction involves boiling the herbs.
Put around 2-3g or more of the dried, or 20-30g of the fresh, herb parts into 100ml of water and
cover the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to boil for about twenty minutes.
You may need to add a bit more water if steam escapes. Steep and strain the mixture and use
according to the Method in the Recipe. When making Decoctions and Infusions do not use an
aluminium pan use a stainless steel, glass, ceramic or enamel (make sure its not chipped,
though) pan.
How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes...

You can replace the water content in your Cream, Lotion, Foam Bath, Gel, Shampoo, and
Conditioner Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion. Infusions and Decoctions are usually
added to the Recipe at the Water Stage of making Creams and Lotions. Dont use Infusions or
Decoctions in Ointment Recipes use the Tincture and/or Essential Oil and CO2 Extract instead.
Use the Infusion or Decoction as it is, or combined with other ingredients, for Wound Washes,
Mouth Washes, Eye Baths or Washes, Compresses, and in Whole Body Baths. See individual
herb listings for any variations, as well as for the strength of Infusions and Decoctions.
, Higher amounts of Preservatives are needed when using Herbal Infusions & Decoctions
You need to double the amount of Preservative in your product when you substitute Herbal
Infusions for Boiling Spring Water in Recipes that contain Boiling Spring Water. Because
natural herbs are not radiated, they naturally carry bacteria and fungi. For this reason, use
0.8% of Parabens, or 1.2g of Preservative K, if using a Herbal Infusion or Decoction in your
products. Please note that Sodium benzoate is an inappropriate Preservative to use in
products that contain Herbal Infusions and Decoctions as you would have to use a very large
amount of it for it to work effectively.
, Do not double the amounts of Preservatives found in this Guide as they have already been
adjusted!
- 11 -
Tinctures...
A Tincture is an extraction of a fresh or dried herb using alcohol. The alcohol serves two
purposes: preservation and extraction of active, healing ingredients in the herb. When using these
in your Recipes, you do not have to make an Infusion or Decoction, just follow the instructions
on the Recipe for how much to add and when.
You can make Tinctures using any part of the plant that is appropriate for your use e.g. roots,
leaves, flowers, etc. Simply chop up the herb or part of herb and pack it in a jar half filled with the
strongest vodka you can buy. Use 80-100g fresh herbs, or 8-10g dried herbs to 150ml alcohol.
Seal the jar and leave it in on a sunny windowsill for 2-3 days. Then store in a dark place at room
temperature for 2-3 weeks, shaking it every day. Strain through muslin cloth and store in a dark
bottle. The Tincture will keep for 2-3 years.
Of course, you dont have to make your own Tinctures; they are available to buy from health
food shops, herbalists and other suppliers such as Aromantic. (See list at the end of the book.)
, When making a Tincture it is important to make sure that the alcohol totally covers the herbs.
Add more alcohol if necessary.
How to use Tinctures in your Recipes
You can replace some of the water in your Cream, Lotion, Gel, Foam Bath, Shampoo and
Conditioner Recipes with up to 10% of a Tincture. Use up to 10% in Ointments, Wound
Washes, Mouth Washes, about 5% Compresses and 1-2% in Eye Baths/Washes. For Whole Body
Baths, use about 15ml for the whole bath. Note: Some Mouth Wash Recipes require more than
10% of the Tincture. See individual herb listings for any variations.
Herbal CO2 Extracts...

Not all of our Herbal CO2 Extracts are herbs, some are plants, so should rightly be called
Botanical CO2 Extracts. Whatever we call them, they have healing and beneficial properties that
make them ideal for making powerful, effective and healing Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care
products. In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin
Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid
extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop
ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy.
Botanical CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate
harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of oil-loving Botanical Extracts, to
avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the
natural raw material. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed
almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be
used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product
can be created at a reduced cost. For more information about the Botanical CO2 Extracts please
see Aromantics Education Pack 2.
How to use Botanical CO2 Extracts in your products
Add 1-3% to your products. If using more than one CO2 Extract, the total percentage used in
your product doesnt need to exceed 6%. CO2 Extracts can be added even when you have
already used Infusions, Decoctions or Tinctures to your product. They will greatly enhance the
benefits of the product.
12
Hydrolates...
Herbal and Floral Waters, also known as Hydrosols or Hydrolates, are by-products of the
process of making Essential Oils. During that process, the herbs and flowers are distilled with
Spring Water. The water is heated and presses itself through the plants as vapour, which collects
the Essential Oils and other ingredients present. The Essential Oils - which float on the surface of
the water - are removed, leaving the Herbal or Floral Water, which contains a small quantity of
Essential Oil and other water-soluble agents from the plant. Nothing else, e.g. Preservative, is
added.
, Some companies add up to 10% alcohol to preserve the Hydrolate.
How to use Hydrolates in your products
Hydrolates can sometimes be used as they are, as Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Hair Rinses, for
Aromatic Baths, Baby Baths, on Compresses or in Sprays for freshening up the skin. They can
also be used to replace, or partially replace, water in various Skin Care products along with other
ingredients, in e.g. Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Face Masks, Creams, Lotions or Shampoos.
, Some Hydrolates are too strong to use undiluted please follow the Recipes.
Macerated Herb Oils...

Dried or fresh plant material (fresh plants are best because volatile oils are still intact) is
macerated by being steeped in a Vegetable Oil and agitated (shaken vigorously) daily for anything
from several days to 6 weeks. An effective method is to leave the jar or bottle in the sun for 3-4
days and then storing it in the dark for the rest of the maceration period. Plant material is then
removed by filtering the Oil, leaving the Oil with some of the therapeutic constituents and
properties of the plant material, including traces of Essential Oils, and even the colour of the
plant material.
Examples of Macerated Oils commonly available are: St. John's Wort Oil; Carrot Oil; Marigold
Oil; Arnica Oil; Aloe Vera Oil; Comfrey Oil; Chamomile Oil; and others. Macerated Oils should
not be confused with Essential Oils. Most Macerated Oils contain extracts of these plants in a
Vegetable Oil base such as Sunflower, Sesame, Olive, Peanut or Soy Oil. None of these plants
contain Essential Oils in any significant quantities when prepared this way, which their price
should reflect.
In the case of St. John's Wort, Chamomile, Marigold and Arnica the flowers are steeped in Oil
and the fat-soluble ingredients 'migrate' from the plant to the Oil. In Carrot Oil, various extracts
from the Carrot are mixed with a Base Oil.

, It is very important to make sure that the Vegetable Oil is covering all of the parts of the fresh
or dried herbs you are using to make the Macerated Oil.
- 13 -
Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty...

Herbal Teas Internal use
Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so.
, If unsure whether to take any herb, please consult your doctor or find a qualified medical
herbalist in your area. There are many herbs that are not suitable for use during pregnancy,
especially herbs that are abortifacients, emmenagogues and strong laxatives. Please make sure
that you check with an appropriate authoritative guide or consult a medical herbalist. As a
general guideline, dont take the same herb internally for more than 2 weeks in a row. You can
alternate it with another herb.
Herbal Baths Whole Body, Foot and Hand
Method 1 - The simplest way is to make a strong Infusion or Decoction of herbs and allow it to
stand for 20-30 minutes. Once strained, this can be added to the bath water or water youre
using for your Foot or Hand Bath.
Method 2 - You can also place the herbs in the bath. This method is preferable for the use of
such herbs as Plantain and Lady's Mantle for the treatment of eczema and itchiness. When placing
the herbs directly into the bath, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the herbs, leave for 10
minutes, before adjusting the temperature to allow the person to enter the bath. The person
should stay in the bath for at least 20 minutes, adding more hot water if necessary in order to
keep the water as hot as possible. The person should not rinse or towel-dry the body and should
allow the body to air-dry instead.
Method 3 - Place fresh or dried herbs in a muslin bag, tie the bag up with string and place in the
bath. As in the above example, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the bag, wait ten minutes
and then follow the same procedure as above.
Method 4 - To use herbs in your Foam Bath Recipes, make a strong Infusion or Decoction of
the herbs and strain them.
Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths
For a Whole Body Bath use approximately 50-100g of dried herbs or 500-1000g fresh herbs. For
a Foot or Hand Bath use 15-20g of dried herbs or 150-200g of fresh herbs.
If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use:
1 litre of water per 15-20g of dried herbs
2-3 litres water per 150-200g of fresh herbs
3 litres of water per 40-50g of dried herbs
6-7 litres water per 400-500g fresh herb
After letting it stand, you would strain it and add the resulting Infusion or Decoction to the Bath.
Tips
x
x
You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers
or leaves or roots you are using.
Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
14
Base Recipe for Foam Baths

(This Recipe makes approximately 1 litre.)
200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier
750-800ml Boiling Water/or Boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction
1 teaspoon (5ml) of Preservative (or double if using Herbal Infusions or Decoctions)
10-20ml Essential Oils (Maximum 2%)
If using Preservative K, add 1 teaspoon Lactic Acid (or 2 teaspoons if using 2 teaspoons
of Preservative K)
Method for making Foam Baths
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Measure the Foam Bath Emulsifier in a measuring jug and pour into an oven-proof bowl.
Measure the boiling water or boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction and pour into the bowl
with the Foam Bath Emulsifier.
Add the Preservative. Stir well until the mixture becomes thick.
Place the bowl in a sink of very cold water, stirring the mixture occasionally.
When it is cooled to below 30C, blend in your own Essential Oils and add Lactic Acid if
using Preservative K.
Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and then, if you prefer, add more cold
water to achieve the consistency you require.
Pour into bottles and label.
Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes

Adding different types of Essential Oil blends to your Foam Bath will affect the consistency of
your Foam Bath. Adjust once made by: adding more Foam Bath Emulsifier if too thin; or more
cold water if too thick. The next time you make the same Recipe, adjust your Recipe so that you
add more Foam Bath Emulsifier or water, whatever the case may be, from the start.
When using Essential Oils in your Baths, it is important that the Essential Oils are dispersed
evenly throughout the whole bath and that the drops are not floating on the surface. This
ensures that the Essential Oils penetrate the skin correctly. This is especially important for
sensitive skin types or with conditions such as eczema. Using Essential Oils in Foam Baths is the
easiest way to ensure that they are evenly dispersed in the bath.
Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes
To make the Infusion or Decoction to use in your Foam Bath Recipe, use approximately 1 litre
per 15-20g of dried herbs or approximately 3 litres of water per 150-200g of fresh herbs for each
1 litre of Foam Bath that you are making.
Tips
x
x
x
When boiling or infusing your herbs, you need to start off with more water than your
eventual Recipe states you need of an Infusion or Decoction as water will evaporate or be
absorbed by the herb, e.g. if you need a 65ml Decoction, you may need to use 100ml
water.
You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers
or leaves or roots you are using.
Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
- 15 -
Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems

When using Baths to treat specialised skin problems such as eczema it is important to start with
calming herbs such as Chamomile. This is especially important if the skin is very infected. You can
use Chamomile in your Baths for a whole week, but if using other herbs, use them only for one
night at a time and alternate with one or more herbs.
After using the Chamomile or other calming herbs, you can continue with a drawing and
activating herb such as Wild Pansy and then alternate with Chickweed, for example, if the
problem is itchy skin or eczema.
Eye Baths
You can buy plastic Eye Bath cups from the local pharmacy and put the Infusion, Decoction or
diluted Tincture (1-2% diluted in water e.g. 1-2ml of the Tincture in 100ml of water) in the cup
before placing the eye over the cup and tilting the head back to wash the eye. Make sure you
have covered the neck and chest area with a towel or something similar as the liquid will run
down your face.
, Never use hot liquid in your Eye Bath make sure the liquid is cold, cool or lukewarm.
Herbal Facial Steams
Boil water and add enough to almost fill a plastic, ceramic or stainless steel basin. Add a few
pinches of the dried herbs of your choice to the water in the basin and allow to draw for a few
minutes. Sit at a table with a towel over your head and cover the basin of hot water in front of
you. Keep your head at a comfortable distance above the water so the steam reaches your face.
Sit for 5-10 minutes with your head in the 'tent' and allow the herbs and the steam to do their
work. Essential Oils can be used instead of herbs. You can use the bathroom sink instead of a
basin just take a chair into the bathroom so that you can sit comfortably while taking the
steam.
Skin Toners...
Base Toner Recipe
(Makes approximately 250ml)
5 drops Essential Oil
20ml Herbal Tincture
10-20 ml Moisturiser either Glycerine, Honey Moisturiser, Sorbitol or NFF Moisturiser
210ml Still Water, Aloe Vera, Water or Hydrosols
General Method for making Toners
1.
2.
3.
Blend all of the ingredients together in the order of the Recipe into a bottle.
Shake the bottle every time you add a new raw material.
Top up with Still Water, Hydrolate or Infusion. Use the different Hydrolates, Tinctures,
Essential Oils or other Active Ingredients which suit you best.
Note: The shelf life of the Toners in this Guide without added Preservatives is 6 months. If
Preservatives are added, the shelf life is increased to 2 years. Simply add 10 extra drops of
Preservative per 100ml of any Still Water added. If using Preservative K, add 1g of Lactic Acid at
the end of your Recipe.
16
Compresses, Poultices and Plasters...

Compresses, Poultices and Plasters are an excellent way to apply a treatment externally to a
specific part of the body. This reduces the necessity for internal medication.
Compresses
There are three main types of Compresses: Hot; Cold (varying from room temperature to ice
cold); and Heating Compresses. There are also many different ways of applying Compresses, such
as using botanical material itself e.g. Plantain leaf; dipping a cotton cloth in an Infusion, Decoction,
Tincture (5% diluted in water) and then applying it to the affected area; using Clay; herbal tea
bags; dried herbs, etc. Essential Oils are also often mixed with these substances to be used in a
Compress.
Cold Compresses
Cold Compresses (room temperature) are used on wounds, eczema, psoriasis and similar
problems where the skin is broken (not inflamed). Cold Compresses (ice cold) can help relieve
the pain of gout and minimise swelling from bruises and sprains. Ice cold Compresses can also be
used to prevent or relieve congestion and to reduce blood flow to an area. Experts suggest
limiting ice cold applications to 20 minutes at a time to prevent damage to the skin.
How to prepare a Cold Compress
Follow the methods for Wet or Dry Compresses below. For Sprains and Bruises you can wrap a
pack of frozen peas with cotton cloth and apply to affected area. You can also add ice cubes to
your Infusion, etc. to make it colder.
Hot Compresses
Hot Compresses are used when the skin is not broken, for example with rheumatism, sprains,
inflammations, accidents, pains and swellings (but not to treat shingles). Hot Compresses can also
be used to lessen the discomfort of menstrual cramps and irritable bowel syndrome, and to
increase blood flow to a particular part of the body. Large Hot Compresses applied to the chest
are also helpful for respiratory problems. Smaller Hot Compresses are used for localised pain
relief from muscle spasms and certain types of arthritis.
, Remember: never use Hot Compresses on broken skin.
How to prepare a Hot Compress
Follow the Method for Wet Compresses below.
Heating Compresses
Combining the basic Cold Compress Method with adding extra insulating layers over it, you can
make a Heating Compress. The body will gradually warm the Compress and the transition from
cold to warm adds to the therapeutic value. They are left in place until the body's heat warms
them, usually for several hours or overnight.
Used for sore throats, ear infections, chest colds, joint pain and digestive problems, the Heating
Compress creates soothing warmth in the affected area and attracts an influx of nutrient- and
oxygen-rich blood to speed healing.
- 17 -
How to prepare a Heating Compress

A Heating Compress can be a Dry or Wet Compress. For a Dry Heating Compress see Method
for Dry Compresses below. For a Wet Heating Compress see Method for Wet Compresses
below.
How to Make a Compress
You will need:
A cotton/muslin cloth 30x50 cm for suitable Compress for chest, throat, knee, elbow
Compress or tube bandage for smaller Compresses
Clingfilm (never use tape or clingfilm directly on the skin)
Surgical tape or freezer tape
Elastic Bandage
Woollen cloth (for Heating Compress)
Method for Dry Compresses
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Spread a cotton or muslin cloth approximately 30x50cm on a clean and smooth surface.
Evenly place 35-50g of the dried herb in the middle of the cotton cloth (see Fig 1). Then
cover with clingfilm.
Fold each side of the cloth over the content (Fig 2).
Lastly tape everything so the content is secure (Fig 3).
Place the Compress on the area to be treated with the cloth side towards the skin (Fig 4).
The clingfilm is facing out, so the healing content is close to the skin. Wrap around with an
elastic bandage and secure with tape.
You can also add a last layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf to create a Dry
Heating Compress.
Method for Wet Compresses

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Make a strong Infusion, Decoction or use a Tincture (mostly diluted but not always,
depending on the use and the herb) of your selected herb/s.
Soak a clean cotton or muslin cloth in either a hot or cold (depending on the use) Infusion,
Decoction, Tincture, Hydrolate, Water, etc. and then squeeze out the cloth so that the
desired amount of liquid remains in the cloth.
Apply gently and loosely to the affected area of the body.
Now, you can either go directly to step 5 below or continue by soaking the cloth in the
herbal solution every 15-30 minutes and applying it to the body. Repeat as often as
necessary.
Wrap the soaked cloth over the affected area and cover the cloth and area with clingfilm.
Then secure both the cloth and the clingfilm with a stretch bandage.
Discard the solution.
To make a Heating Compress of a Cold Wet Compress or to keep your Hot Compress
warm, add a layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf between the clingfilm layer
and the stretch bandage. You can also keep a Hot Compress Warm by placing a hot water
bottle on the bandaged area.
18
Kolbjorns Tips for Compresses

x
x
x
x
x
When onion is used in a Compress, it is important that it doesnt come in direct contact
with the skin; put it in a cotton cloth.
Never use raw garlic in a Compress. If you want to use garlic, then crush the garlic and mix
into a vegetable oil, leaving it for 3-4 days and shaking twice a day on those days. Strain
twice, making sure no bits of garlic are left in the oil. Soak a cotton cloth in the oil and use
according to the instruction for Wet Compresses.
Never use Hot Compresses on wounds, as the ingredients will be absorbed into the body.
As a rule Compresses should be left on the person overnight, but not for more than 8-10
hours at a time. However, if the area of the body starts to itch under the Compress,
remove it immediately. This will apply more specifically to children or when the Compress
contains onions or arnica or when it is being used on burns.
Compresses on a wounded surface can first appear much worse. This is because the
Compress draws out pus and impurities through the wound. Change the Compress often,
wash and clean the area with a strong Chamomile Infusion. You will soon see a big
improvement and the wound will heal.
Dont use the same type of herb in your Compress two nights in a row, alternate with
different types herbs in your Compresses. An exception is the Dry Chamomile Compress,
which you can use every night for up to a week. You can make a Chamomile Heating
Compress (see Method for Dry Compresses opposite) using dried Chamomile flowers
and place a hot water bottle on top of the woollen material if you wish.
Poultices...
A Poultice is a wad of chopped, fresh plant material that is applied directly to a wound or
infection on the skin and usually held in place by a Wet Compress that is covered by a bandage.
Poultices & Plasters
Poultices and Plasters are used much like Compresses except they are made with fresh (or dried,
but re-moistened), solid herbal or plant material rather than an Infusion or Decoction. Poultices
are generally a wad of bruised or chopped plant material applied topically to an area of the body,
such as a wound or infection. Poultices work primarily at the application site, typically preventing
infection and hastening the healing of wounds. But there are doubtless many compounds in
Poultice plants that pass through the skin and have internal benefits as well.
They become Plasters when using finely ground herbs or adding ingredients such as cornmeal or
wheat flour to assist their cohesiveness. Generally Plasters are placed in layers of thin material to
protect the skin as well. Plasters tend to be stronger in nature and should be monitored to avoid
any skin reactions to strong herbs such as garlic or mustard. It is advisable to massage oil over
the skin prior to placement of the Plaster.
Both Plasters and Poultices are wonderful for their action of drawing out toxins.
You can bandage and cover a Poultice in the same way as you might with a Compress (described
in section on Compresses on page 18).
, When using Baths, Compresses and Poultices to treat skin conditions such as eczema or
psoriasis, it is very important to start with calming or soothing herbs e.g. Chamomile Baths
and Compresses for a week. Then you can continue the treatment with herbs which have
properties of drawing out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
- 19 -
Gels...
Recipes for Gels are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic
Guides. Always remember that if you add any alcohol-based herbal preparations, such as
Tinctures, to your Gel, you should compensate for the drying effect of the alcohol by adding 34% Vegetable Oil to your Recipe.
Creams...
You can replace the water content in your Cream Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion
or replace some of the water with up to 10% of the Tincture. We have included the basic Recipe
for Herbal Cream, as well as the Method for making all Creams below. This Cream is especially
suitable for Dry or Mature skin, but can be used for all skin types except oily skin. Refer to
Aromantics Education Pack 1 for further Cream, and Lotion Recipes, as well as for
troubleshooting tips. Note: Adding herbal infusions or Decoctions to your Creams, Lotions and
Gels will discolour these products. Carotene is used in the Recipe below to colour the Cream in
order to mask the less attractive colouring caused by the herbs.
Herbal Cream Recipe
(Makes 100gr/ml of Cream. Multiply if you want to make larger quantities e.g. x10 for 1 litre of
Cream.)
Fat Stage
2g Cocoa Butter
3ml Olive Oil
7ml Almond Oil
3ml Thistle Oil
2g Cetyl Alcohol
2.5g VE Emulsifier
Water Stage
4.5g MF Emulsifier
70ml Boiling Infusion and/or Decoction of herbs of your choice
2ml Glycerine (Moisturiser)
20 drops Preservative
2 drops Carotene
Third Stage
0.5ml Vitamin E
2ml/g NFF Moisturiser
[10ml Herbal Tincture of your choice - optional]
, If using the Herbal Tincture mentioned in the Third Stage above, then reduce the Boiling
Infusion/Decoction in the Water Stage to 60ml. Because of tinctures dissolving properties,
you must also add an extra 0.5g VE Emulsifier as well as 0.5g MF Emulsifier to your recipe.
Fourth Stage
20 drops Essential Oil
(0.5g/10-12 drops Lactic Acid if using Preservative K as your Preservative)
, If you wish to make the Dry Skin Care Cream fluffier, add 20-30 ml Aloe Vera Gel to this
amount of Cream and reduce the Boiling Spring Water accordingly.
(See Aromantics Recipe Brochure: How to make Gels.)
20
Basic Method for making all Creams

1.
Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double

boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the
temperature has risen to 75-80C. There is no need to
use a whisk at this stage.
2.
Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or

Decoction, measure it according to the Recipe and
pour it over the MF Emulsifier, the Glycerine, and the
Preservative, which you have put into a separate
double boiler.
3.
Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together,

making sure that the MF Emulsifier powder is fully
dissolved in the water and that you dont have any
lumps. Then allow the mixture to heat to 75-80C.
4.
When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75C

(check with a thermometer), remove both double
boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture
hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.
5.
Now pour the melted Fat Stage into the Water Stage
in a thin, steady stream, while continuously whisking
the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes. If
necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from
the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).
6.
Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You

can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the
hot water in the double boiler with very COLD water.
In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes
a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it
is has cooled down to room temperature.
7.
Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when

the mixture has cooled to under 40C.
8.
Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has

cooled to under 25C, then thoroughly mix in the
Essential Oils.
9.
Pour the Cream into one big jar or smaller jars and
label.
- 21 -
Heating the Fat and Water Stages
Mixing the Fat and Water Stages
Pouring the Cream into a jar
Ointments...
Ointments are used to protect the skin. They are for use on dry, cracked skin and for minor
injuries to the skin. To make Ointments you will need a stainless steel saucepan, a bowl, a whisk,
a spatula, and a thermometer (optional, up to 110C) as well as the ingredients.
A simple Base Ointment can be made from Vegetable Oils and Beeswax. The Vegetable Oils
nourish the skin while at the same time softening and protecting it. The Beeswax protects the
skin while giving the Ointment its consistency.
The more Beeswax you add, the harder the Ointment will be and the more Vegetable Oil you
add, the softer it will be.
Base Ointment Recipe
(Makes 100g/ml.)
15g Beeswax
85ml Vegetable Oil of your choice (e.g. Sweet Almond Oil*)
*
There are many Vegetable Oils to choose from, everything from a simple Olive or
Sunflower Oil to a more luxurious Avocado, Apricot Kernel or Peach Kernel Oil.
Method for making Base Ointments

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Melt the Beeswax and Vegetable Oil together in a double boiler.

When the Beeswax is completely melted, remove the bowl or saucepan the ingredients are
in from the double boiler.
Whisk the Ointment until it has cooled to approximately 40-45C.
Whisk, or stir in, appropriate active raw materials such as Tinctures (up to 15%);
Botanical CO2 Extracts; Vitamins (A &E); and Essential Oils. Remember to reduce the
amount of Vegetable Oil in your Recipe accordingly.
Pour into jars.
Shampoos, Conditioners,Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect

Repellents...
Recipes for these products are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other
Aromantic literature. Simply replace the water in the recipes found in those Guides with Herbal
Infusions, Decoctions, or Tinctures, whichever is specified in the entries for each herb listed in
this Guide.
22
Aloe
Aloe barbadensis
(Although not strictly a herb, we have included
Aloe Vera because of its many useful properties
for Skin, Hair, Body and Pet Care.)
Aloe was also mentioned in ancient Chinese

transcripts. It was used for eczema in China
under the name lu hui and in India under the
name musabbar.
Synonyms: Barbados Aloe, Coastal Aloe,

Curaao Aloe, Indian Aloe, Jaffarabad Aloe,
Medicinal Aloe, Mediterranean Aloe, Star
Cactus, True Aloe (Aloe Vera), West Indian
Aloe.
Aloe was also mentioned in the writings of the

well-known Latin writer, Aurelius Celsus, in
the year 1378. In America, Aloe was
mentioned in Columbus' journals. The earliest
record of using Aloe's bitter material as a drug
in America was 1697. Central and South
American Indians used it to treat burns,
kidney and bladder infections, dysentery,
stomach and intestinal disorders.
Parts used: Gel from the leaves (can be

grown as a pot plant).
Traditional use & history, description
and properties: Also known as Aloe Vera,
the clear Gel of this plant has been used
medicinally since the time of the ancient
Egyptians. The bitter yellow aloe latex
obtained from the base of the leaves has also
been used as a traditional remedy for
constipation and used on warts.
Ancient records of the Egyptians,
Arab, African, Asians and Americans have
discussed the different uses and pathological
cases in which Aloes were administered. The
Arabs had taken Aloe Vera plants to India and
the Indian people called it savari, a name
from which the name savila (Spanish for Aloe
Vera) might have been derived. The Indians,
who use it as one of the Ayurvedic medicinal
herbs, named Aloe ailwa, from which the
Greek word alon might have been derived.
Description & properties: Aloe plants

belong to the liliaceae family which contains
over 200 genera. Aloe, with its different
species composes 1/10th the size of the lily
family. Aloe can be separated into two basic
products: a gel, which is pressed out from the
core of the leaves; and a latex, which is a
sticky, bitter yellow exudate from just below
the outer skin of the leaves often called Aloe
juice. A powerful laxative called aloin is found
in the juice of the Aloe leaf, but only found in
small quantities in the Gel.
A note of clarification: when I refer to Aloe
Vera Gel, I am referring to a Skin Gel made
with Aloe Vera Concentrate (from the
substance called Gel, which is pressed from
the Aloe leaves and 90% of its water content
removed) added to a Thickening Agent;
Water; and other ingredients to reconstitute
it.
The enzymes contained in the Gel are affected
by heating above 70C. The fresh leaves and
liquid Gels or Extracts are more effective than
the powdered, dehydrated Aloe, which is
heated. Aloe Gel can be bought in health food
shops and the quality will depend on where it
is made. Often Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum or
extra glucomannan is added to create the
correct consistency.
Aloe barbadensis
- 23 -
Internal use: Aloe Vera has many uses

internally, such as for treating: constipation;
indigestion; diarrhoea and other intestinal
problems; low energy; cancer; ulcers;
hangovers; diabetes; diverticulosis;
diverticulitis and peptic ulcers; sore and
bleeding gums; fungal growth such as Candida
albicans; asthma; heartburn; haemorrhoids;
ulcers; and to speed up and improve general
healing, to name but a few.
Main constituents: 96% water, lignin,

saponins, anthraquines, carbohydrate
glucomannans (of particular importance is
acemannan), tannins, steroids, enzymes,
growth hormones, aloin, glucommannans,
salicylic acid, and fatty acids. Aloe Vera also
contains twenty amino acids (including all eight
essential amino acids), at least nine minerals
i.e. calcium, sodium, iron, potassium, zinc,
chromium, magnesium, manganese and
copper, and a number of vitamins, including
B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, A, C, E, folic acid, and
choline.
Pet Care: Cuts and scrapes: Freshly cut

Aloe or Aloe Vera Gel is an excellent
application for cuts and scrapes. It is a natural
antiseptic, and will keep the area moist until
the cut can heal. Skin problems: Aloe Vera
is an excellent preparation to use for skin
conditions such as allergies, abscesses, fungal
infections, pyoderma, and many types of
dermatitis. Wounds and Burns: These
respond particularly well to Aloe Vera. Aloe
Vera can aid the natural healing processes and
help to keep the wound or burn moist and
supplied with nutrients. Internal use: The
Aloe Vera Gel can be used for stomach
problems and digestive upsets.
External use for Skin, Hair and Body

products: A lot of research has been done
on Aloe Vera and clearly shows that the Gel:
has anti-inflammatory properties; reduces
scarring in burns; skin ulcers and other
lesions; relieves pain from sunburn and burns
and helps these to heal quickly by stimulating
fibroblast and connective tissue formation, and
by stimulating the epidermal growth and
repair process; has rejuvenating effects; and
has also been shown to have an invigorating
effect on skin when applied on a regular basis.
It is an excellent emollient, making it soothing
and calming to the skin, is antiseptic and
antibacterial, acting against a number of
different bacteria and fungi (staphylococci,
streptococci, salmonella and Candida albicans).
Usage and preparation of Aloe Vera in

your products:
For healing purposes, add up to 10% Aloe
Concentrate to Creams, Lotions, Gels, Preand After-Sun Protection products, Shampoos,
Conditioners, Toothpastes, Mouth Washes
and Gargles, Vaginal Douches, Skin Toners,
and Baby products.
Aloe Vera is used in Skin Care products that

help to treat: Sunburn; overexposure to
radiation (it also helps to protect against solar
radiation); burns; scars on the skin; irritation
of the skin; nappy rash; acne spots; small
sores; haemorrhoids (piles); herpes; shingles;
insect bites; eczema; psoriasis; wounds;
varicose ulcers; and other sores which are
slow to heal; itchy scalp; and dandruff,.
For how to make your own Aloe Vera Gel from

1:9 Liquid Aloe Vera Concentrate, refer to
Aromantics Education Pack 1.
Aloe Vera Gel can be used in the following

Skin, Hair and Body Care products:
Compresses; Poultices and Plasters use the
Gel, or the fresh botanical material; Lotions;
Creams; Pre- and After-Sun Protection
products; directly on the skin; Shampoos;
Gels; Mouth Washes and Gargles;
Toothpastes; Vaginal Douches; Toners and
Facial Sprays; and Baby products.
24
Arnica
Arnica montana
Synonyms: Leopards bane.
Parts used: Flowers and roots.
and properties: Arnica montana or
Leopard's Bane is a perennial herb, indigenous
to Central Europe, in woods and mountain
pastures, and also native to Siberia and North
West North America. It has also been found
in England and southern Scotland, but it is
probably not indigenous to Britain.
In countries where Arnica is indigenous, it has
long been a popular remedy for bruises,
wounds, pain, swellings, rheumatic pain, the
pain and inflammation of phlebitis and similar
conditions. In North America the flowers are
used in preference to the roots. Arnica has
been used extensively in folk medicine. The
German philosopher and poet Goethe (17491832), claimed that Arnica helped to ease his
angina in old age.
Whilst the internal use of Arnica is restricted
to homoeopathic use as it is potentially toxic,
the herb provides us with one of the best
remedies for external local healing and is
mainly used in a Compress for bruises,
swellings, inflammations and other tissue
damage caused by sprains, bumps, bangs and
crushing. Also good for pulled muscles and

torn ligaments, for gout, lumbago and
rheumatic ailments.
Arnica montana contains 10 different
constituents (including the immuno-stimulant
Helenalin, its most active sesquiterpene
lactone), which have anti-inflammatory and
pain-relieving effects. The plants Essential Oils
(which are antiseptic and anti-inflammatory)
and carotene promote healing. The Essential
Oil stimulates the mopping up and
reabsorption of blood from the bruised tissue
and hastens the replacement of damaged
tissue with new cells.
Main constituents: Essential Oils and
volatile oils, containing thymol and various
ethers of thymol, which are mostly found in
the roots and root stock; sesquiterpene
lactones; mucilage and polysaccharides; and
other substances such as resins, bitters
(arnicin), tannins and carotenes.
For external use: Arnica is used almost
exclusively in Tincture form and then mainly in
a Compress, Cream or Ointment. Arnica
Tincture must always be diluted in some way,
as prolonged contact with the skin can cause
severe redness and tissue damage and must
not be used on broken skin or open wounds.
Arnica Tincture should be diluted with up to 9
parts water (use approximately 10%) and the
Compress dipped into this and then applied
wet to the affected area. This should be held
in place with a cloth bandage. Do not use any
plastics as it is important that the area should
not be made airtight. The bandage should be
changed regularly, as soon as it dries.
For more comprehensive instructions, follow the
Method for Wet Compresses on page 18.
Arnica montana
- 25 -
For acutely inflamed haemorrhoids, use Cold

Arnica Compresses and replace these hourly.
You can also add the Tincture or Infusion to
Creams and Lotions or the Tincture to
Ointments. Arnica Cream or Lotion is a
favourite of athletes and others participating in
active sports.
Arnica Recipes
Arnica Compress
Use on sprains, bruises, swollen skin, pains,
and herpes blisters. Using Arnica on burns
increases the bleeding-through and reduces
scar formation.
Homoeopathic Arnica can be taken internally

to promote healing from bruising, sprains,
inflammations, internal injuries and also for
shock and trauma.
, The skin should not be in contact with

Arnica for more than 6 hours a day as any
longer contact can create skin irritation.
Never take Arnica internally, except in
homoeopathic doses.
Pet Care: Use Arnica externally for bruises,

wounds, contusions, etc in the same way as
for humans in Compresses, Ointments,
Creams, etc.
You will need:

50ml warm water at blood temperature, 37C
1 teaspoon Arnica Tincture
, Remember not to apply Arnica products to

an open wound or broken skin.
Method
Homoeopathic Arnica can be given to animals

internally to promote healing from bruising,
inflammations, sprains, internal injuries and
also for shock and trauma.
Follow the Method for Wet Compresses

described on pg 18 and also follow the
instructions in step 8 for keeping Hot
Compresses warm.
Usage and preparation of Arnica in your

products:
Arnica Healing Ointment
The Tincture can be made with fresh or dried

Arnica flowers and alcohol. Use 10g of the
dried flowers, or 50g of the fresh flowers, to
150ml alcohol.
Stage 1
Stage 2
To make an Infusion use 15-20g of the dried

flowers, or150-200g of the fresh flowers, to 1
litre of water and allow to infuse for 30
minutes.
Use up to 10% pure Arnica Tincture mixed
into a Base Ointment, or add to Creams or
Lotions.
15g Beeswax
34ml Olive Oil
20ml Avocado Oil
10ml Thistle Oil
5ml Borage Oil
Stage 3
10ml Arnica Tincture

5ml/g Vitamin E Oil
Stage 4
15-20 drops healing Essential Oils

of your choice
Method
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
26
Melt Stage 1 ingredients first in a double

boiler.
When melted, add Stage 2 ingredients
and stir well.
Then stir in Stage 3 ingredients.
Finally add the Essential Oils and stir in
thoroughly.
Place in jars and allow to settle.
Birch
Betula alba
Synonyms: Lady of the Woods (AngloSaxon), Common Birch, Silver Birch.
for it's white colour. Found in all parts of

Europe and Northern Asia, all parts of the
Birch tree have also long been used in folk
medicine, for ritual healing and purification,
magical protective and creative talismans.
Parts used: The leaves, but also the bark and

tar. The leaves are picked in early spring, the
bark either early in the spring or in the
autumn.
and properties: The name is a very ancient
one, probably derived from the Sanskrit
bhurga, 'a tree whose bark is used for writing
upon'. Traditionally, Birch has been used for
many ailments ranging from headache to fever,
cramps, gout, wounds and skin ailments.
Today researchers are focusing on the
possible anti-cancer and HIV properties of
betulinic acid a pentacyclic triterpene which is
synthesized or derived from betulin found in
the shredding bark of the tree and accounts
The production of Birch tar oil is a Russian

industry of considerable importance and apart
from being used for skin complaints, it is also
used in the preserving of leather and in
photography. Birch wine has been made for a
long time in parts of Europe.
The tree has been used for many more
purposes, such in boat-building, roofing, the
manufacture of bobbins for thread mills,
herring-barrel staves, broom handles, various
fancy articles, thatching, wattles, broom
making and in the manufacture of cloth, as
well as asphyxiating gases and gunpowder.
Native Americans of northern New England
regions in North America are well known for
making Birch-bark canoes but there are also
records of these canoes being made in
Europe.
In Britain, the Birch tree was used for making
the May pole used in folk festivities as it was
very much associated with fertility and
sexuality until the 19th century, when people
considered themselves to be married if they
jumped across a Birch broom. In Sweden,
Birch poles are still used to make May poles.
The bark has also long been used as a source
of tannin for tanning leather.
In Estonia, the leaves are still considered one
of the three most important whisking herbs
to use for sauna treatments.
With regard to Natural Skin Care and Beauty,
Birch leaves disinfect wounds and are
considered to alleviate most skin complaints,
including cellulite.
Betula alba
Main constituents: Approximately 3%

saponins (concentration is highest in the
spring), 0.05-1% Essential Oil, 5-9% tannins.
Betulin (also known as Birch Camphor), a
component richest in the Birch bark, is being
studied for its hepatoprotective (liver
- 27 -
protecting), anti-ulcer, and anti-inflammatory

activities. In high concentration, it may inhibit
viruses and cancer cell reproduction. The
leaves contain flavonoids that may be
responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity;
one of the components is hyperoside, which is
also found in St. John's Wort. Birch is also high
in vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2 and in the minerals
calcium, chloride, copper, iron, magnesium,
phosphorus, potassium, sodium, silicon and
fluoride.
natural aspirin, those who are allergic to

aspirin should not use Birch-based herbs.
Skin and Body Care: The leaves are used
externally as an astringent and antiseptic (the
bark is even more effective) for inflammations
of the skin and for strengthening the skin
tissue. Birch tar, which is extracted through
the dry distillation of the bark and wood and
is a brown-black, with a thick, runny, sticky,
syrupy consistency, is used in an Ointment
base to treat scabies, skin parasites, eczema,
psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin.
Because of the high tannin contents, Birch
leaves have an astringent effect on weeping
eczemas and other skin problems. In addition,
Birch leaves contain betulin, which curb or kill
viruses, such as the papillomavirus, which
causes warts.
,Birch Essential Oil is recommended for use
by professional aromatherapists only.
Internal use: Birch leaves have a strong,

diuretic effect, which is mainly caused by the
saponins found in the leaves. The diuretic
effect with normal dosages has been
questioned but when adding a little Sodium
Bicarbonate to the Birch tea will increase its
diuretic effects. This is because the active
betulorentic acid in the leaves is easily
dissolved by the Sodium Bicarbonate. In a
similar way, Birch leaves taken as a hot
Infusion have both diuretic and sudorific
(sweat-producing) effects as the hot water
increases the effects. Boil for 15 minutes if you
want to release the saponins.
Birch leaf is usually taken as a tea or in capsule
form for Arthritis; blood purifying; boils; gout;
bladder problems; kidney stones; oedema;
worms.
, Since its chemical make up is very similar to
Use a strong Birch leaf Decoction for

Compresses for warts and eczema. Soak a
cotton cloth in the Decoction and apply as a
Compress to eczema and warts.
Hair Care: Birch leaf is considered to
strengthen skin tissue, tone the scalp and
prevent hair loss and make hair soft and shiny.
To use, make a strong Decoction and add it to
your Shampoo Recipe. A Birch leaf Decoction
is an excellent addition to your Nettle
Shampoo recipe as the saponins in the Birch
opens up the pores to allow the minerals in
the Nettle to penetrate the scalp.
Oral Care: It can also be used as a Tooth
Powder to brush teeth.
Preparation and usage of Birch in your
products: For Compresses, make a strong
Decoction by boiling 15-20g dried Birch leaves
per 1 litre of water for 15 minutes to release
the saponins before use.
For Shampoos, add a Birch leaf Decoction to
your Recipe. Add 10-20% of the total volume
of your Shampoo e.g. if using 20%, then you
would use 20ml of the Decoction in 100ml of
Shampoo.
28
Chamomile
Matricaria recutita
To make the Birch leaf Decoction, use 15-20g

of dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water or
150-200g of fresh Birch leaves per 2-3 litres of
water.
For Whole Body Baths, use either 50-100g of
dried Birch Leaves or 500-1000g fresh Birch
leaves or use a strong Decoction.
Use a 15% concentration of Birch tar in an
Ointment base only to treat scabies and skin
parasites and a maximum of 8% concentration
for eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of
the skin.
Grind the dried leaves in a coffee grinder and
use as a rough Powder by dipping your
toothbrush in it and brushing the teeth.
Birch Hair Rinse Recipe

(Makes approximately 1 litre.)
You will need:
For the Decoction
25g dried Birch leaves
1200ml Still Water
Other Hair Rinse Ingredients
1-1.2gr Preservative
20ml D-Panthenol
20ml Bio-energiser
5g Lactic Acid (if you are using Preservative K
as your Preservative)
, If you are using this Hair Rinse within a
week of making it, you dont need to use a
Preservative.
Method:
1.
2.
Make 1 litre of a strong Birch Decoction

and strain.
Mix the rest of the ingredients into the
Decoction and use as a Hair Rinse.
Synonyms: Chamomilla recutita, German

Chamomile, Blue Chamomile, Sweet
Chamomile, Sweet Feverfew, Whig-plant,
Manzanilla and too many more to mention
here. Note: Roman Chamomile
(Chamaemelum nobile) is a close relation,
used in a similar way.
Parts used: Flowers.
and properties: This herb is one of the
best known of the garden herbs and is widely
cultivated in Europe. In the middle ages,
Chamomile used to be regarded as the 'Plant's
Physician,' and it has been stated that nothing
contributes as much to the health of a garden
as a number of Chamomile herbs distributed
around it, and that if another plant is drooping
and sickly, in nine cases out of ten, it will
recover if you place a herb of Chamomile
near it.
Its value as a medicinal herb has been
recognised for many hundreds of years and its
use has even been recorded in ancient
Egyptian manuscripts. It is said that the
Egyptians dedicated Chamomile to their sun
god and valued it over all other herbs for its
healing qualities. Due to its sedative and
relaxing properties Chamomile was an
ingredient in some love potions in the middle
ages.
The fresh plant is strongly and agreeably
aromatic, with a distinct scent of apples - a
characteristic noted by the Greeks, on
account of which they named it 'ground-apple';
- kamai (on the ground) and melon (an apple)
- the origin of the name Chamomile.
The Spaniards call it 'manzanilla,' which
signifies 'a little apple', and give the same name
to one of their lightest sherries, flavoured with
this plant. Anglo-Saxons believed it was one of
the nine sacred herbs given to humans by the
god Woden.
- 29 -
Main constituents: The flowers of

Chamomile contain 12% volatile oils including
alpha-bisabolol, alpha-bisabolol oxides A & B,
and matricin (usually converted, when heated
through distillation or Infusion, to
chamazulene, which is blue). Other active
constituents include the flavonoids apigenin,
luteolin, and quercetin. These active
ingredients contribute to chamomiles antiinflammatory, antispasmodic, and smoothmuscle relaxing action, particularly in the
gastrointestinal tract. Also present are bitter
principles, glycosides and carbohydrates.
Crohns disease; Irritable Bowel Syndrome;

infantile teething pain (usually homoeopathic
doses); and infantile convulsions (usually as a
weak Infusion).
External use: Chamomile is used externally
for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and
healing effect. The active ingredients in
Chamomile flowers can detoxify certain
bacterial toxins, affect the composition of
substances in the skin and have a locally
astringent effect on the arteries. They also
increase blood circulation in the tissue.
Chamomile is used externally to ease or treat:
Inflammation; sore skin; blisters and sores in
the mouth and nose; gingivitis; varicose ulcers;
irritation and infections of the skin;
haemorrhoids; fistula; burns; insect bites;
washing wounds to prevent infections;
weeping eczema; colds (inhaled, Steam Baths);
psoriasis (Steam Bath and Creams);
haemorrhoids and vaginal and bladder
infections (Bath or Steam Bath). Bisabolol and
chamazulene are both anti-inflammatory.
Chamazulene is found only in the Essential Oil
and is hardly present when the flowers are
infused.
Internal use: The Essential Oil found in

Chamomile flowers has anti-inflammatory,
antispasmodic and anti-microbial activity. It is
an excellent herb for many digestive disorders
and for nervous tension and irritability. For
safe internal use, only the Infusion or the
Tincture is recommended.
Chamomile is used internally to ease or treat:
indigestion; heartburn; nervousness;
depressions; headaches; emotion-related
problems; insomnia; peptic ulcers; colitis;
spastic colon; nervous indigestion; diarrhoea;
Matricaria recutita
30
Chickweed
Stellaria media
Chamomile Tip:
Synonyms: Starweed, Starwort.
It is recommended that both the Essential Oil

and the Infusion be used in external
applications. Chamomile Tincture can also be
used, as well as Chamomile CO2 Extract. This
is a powerful form of Chamomile and very
little is needed to be effective.
Parts used: Whole above-ground plant.

and properties: Chickweed use has most
likely not changed much since Neolithic man.
It has been gathered in India and used by man
for untold centuries. The early Greeks and
Romans used Chickweed as one of the few
edible greens available for food during the
winter months.
Skin, Hair and Body Care:

Chamomile has cleansing and refreshing
properties and it soothes delicate, sensitive
skin. It is used in a number of ways for a
number of purposes:
For swollen skin and eyes - Facial Steam Baths;
Compresses.
For stress and nervous tension - Soothing
Bath; Massage Oil (Base Oil with Essential Oil
and CO2 Extract).
For scalp irritation/giving lighter shine Shampoos; Conditioners; Hair Packs.
To lighten hair - Hair Rinses.
For red, sensitive and/or irritated skin Creams, Skin Oils, Foam Bath.
To help treat Acne and eczema - Facial/Steam
Baths, Creams, Ointments, Compresses.
Preparation and usage of dried
Chamomile flowers for your products:
In the middle ages, Chickweed was popular as

a salad green, pot herb, and as a medicinal for
curing rashes. Chickweed has also been used
as feed for poultry, a custom from which
Chickweed derives its name. Chickweed seed
is still added to commercially prepared poultry
feed to stimulate the appetites of chickens
raised in confinement.
Chickweed was praised by most medieval
herbalists as an excellent anti-inflammatory
medicinal herb. It is said to have been taken
to North America by the Puritan immigrants.
It is also found in Central and South America.
Chickweed Poultices are still used to combat
rheumatism by people who continue to use
folk remedies and is widely used in Antiitching Creams by herbalists.
For Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g per

1 litre of water.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g.
For Foam Baths, add 1-2% of either
Chamomile CO2 Extract, or add 75-80% of a
strong Chamomile Infusion to your Recipes.
For Wet Compresses and Wraps, use 25-30g
per 1 litre of water to make an Infusion.
For Dry Compresses, see section at the
beginning of the Pack for instructions.
For Shampoo and Conditioners, make an
Infusion to use in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of
water per 15-20g to make the Infusion.
Stellaria media
- 31 -
Chickweed Cream Recipe
Most important active ingredients:

Triterpene saponins, hentiacontanol,
coumarins, mucilage, phytosterols,
tocopherols, Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA),
minerals, flavonoids (mainly apigenin cglycosides and rutin), organic acids (carboxylic
acids) and Vitamin C.
(This is an excellent Cream for treating itchy

skin and generally good for sensitive skin.
Makes approximately 100ml/g.)
Fat Stage
75-80C
Internal use: Internally, Chickweed is used

for rheumatism as well as chest infections.
Fresh Chickweed is also used in salads or
cooked as winter greens. When liquidised, it
makes a good tonic juice, especially when it is
combined with other herbs and vegetables.
6ml Apricot Kernel Oil

2g Shea Butter
2g Cetyl Alcohol
2.5g VE Emulsifier
2-3 drops Carotene
Water Stage 4g MF Emulsifier

75-80C
48ml Boiling Infusion of
Chickweed (use 2-3g dried,
or 25-30g fresh Chickweed
per 100ml of water)
5ml Comfrey Glycerol Extract
2g Lechitin
0.8-1.2ml Preservative
(NB Use the higher amount if
using Preservative K)
External use (Skin Care): Best known in

its use for treating pruritus and itchy skin, it is
also used to treat: eczema; acne; ulcers;
haemorrhoids; varicose veins; psoriasis;
Inflammation; vaginitis; urticaria (hives, solar
rashes, nettle rashes, etc); boils; wounds;
abscesses; skin allergies; and other skin
problems.
Preparation and usage of Chickweed for
your products:
For Healing Creams, make an Infusion to use
in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 1520g of dried, or 150-200g of fresh, Chickweed
to make the Infusion. See the Chickweed
Cream Recipe opposite as an example.
Third Stage
40-35C
2ml Vitamin E Oil

5ml Borage Oil
1ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate
7ml Aloe Vera concentrate
1ml/g Rosehip Seed CO2
Extract
Fourth
Stage
10ml runny Aloe Vera Gel

10-15 drops Essential Oils
(optional)
1g Lactic acid
(Only add if you are using
Preservative K as your
Preservative)
25C
Use up to 10% of the Tincture in Creams or

Ointments.
For Method on how to make a Cream, see

page 21.
32
Cleavers
Galium aparine L
Synonyms: Goosegrass, Catchweed,
Cleavers Goosegrass, Zhu Yang Yang.
Most important active ingredients:

Galiosin, an anthraquinone glycoside, other
glycosides such as asperuloside, a variety of
tannins, citric acid and flavonoids.
Parts used: Aerial parts (gathered before

flowering).
Skin Care: The variety of Tannic Acids in

Cleavers have an astringent and antiseptic
effect and this makes the herb good for
healing wounds. In Skin Care it is useful for
dry skin conditions such as psoriasis as it
purifies the blood and is often used in
combination with Yellow Dock and Burdock
in Baths, Compresses, and Creams for this
purpose. Cleavers are also useful also for
burns and wounds that are hard to heal.

and properties: Cleavers is one of
numerous plants considered in ancient times
to act as a diuretic and has also long been
used for treating ulcers and tumours. It is still
used to relieve oedema and to promote urine
formation during bladder infections or when
there the prostate is irritated. It has also been
used very effectively by people with lymph
swellings, jaundice, and wounds. It reduces
inflammation and tones the lymphatic system.
It is often included in herbal detox formulas.

Cleavers in your products:
Use an Infusion 15-20g per litre of water in
Foam Bath Recipes and Wet Compresses.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g for the
whole bath.
For Creams, make an Infusion to use in your
Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 15-20g dried
Cleavers to make the Infusion.
Remember that it generally combines well
with Burdock and Yellow Dock.
Galium aparine L
- 33 -
Comfrey
Symphytum officinalis
Synonyms: Ass Ear, Black Root, Blackwort,
Boneset, Bruisewort, Consound, Gum Plant,
Healing Herb, Knitback, Knitbone, Salsify,
Slippery Root, Wallwort.
The carbohydrates provide protective,

soothing and rejuvenating properties.
The tannins and rosmarinic acid have an
astringent and anti-inflammatory effect.
Parts used: Leaves, Root.
The Essential Oil reinforces the tannins'

antibacterial action.

and properties: Comfrey's name derives
from the Latin con firma, i.e. with strength,
from the belief that it could heal broken
bones. Long used to heal wounds, the
Comfrey leaves and roots have been used to
cure ailments ranging from stubborn leg ulcers
to broken bones, and hence its common name
of boneset or knitbone.
, Comfrey root and young leaf preparations

should not be used internally because of its
pyrroliziden alkaloid content.
Trials with rats using 4% Comfrey root
reported the development of malignant
tumours in the liver and skin.
Since 400 BCE, early Greek physicians have

used Comfrey to stop bleeding, treat
bronchial problems, heal wounds, and mend
broken bones. During the Irish potato famine
of the 1840s, an Englishman named Henry
Doubleday became convinced that the world
could be saved from hunger and suffering by
using Comfrey. He was so intrigued by its
possibilities as a useful crop that he devoted
the rest of his life to popularising it. The
Henry Doubleday Research Association
(HDRA), which still exists in England today,
was set up in 1954 by Lawrence Hills, who in
turn was inspired by Henry Doubleday and his
introduction of Russian Comfrey to Great
Britain.
Main constituents: Allantoin, approx. 30%

carbohydrate, tannins and small quantities of
Essential Oil. Comfrey Root contains mucilage
(fructans), pyrrolizidine alkaloids, triterpenes,
allantoin, rosmarinic acid, tannins.
Comfrey has been used for centuries for its

wound healing properties. Comfrey is mainly
used externally to treat inflammation and to
stimulate wound and bone fracture healing.
It is also used for treating: tissue damage;
bone infections; gout; inflammations; sprains;
tendonitis; aches and pains; haemorrhages;
post-operative wounds; sores which do not
heal; eczema; psoriasis; varicose ulcers; boils;
and varicose veins.
The phytochemical allantoin is known for its
stimulation of cell proliferation, healing
wounds and stimulating the growth of healthy
tissue.
Symphytum officinalis
34
Skin Care: Plants like Comfrey, which have

a high carbohydrate content, are considered
to rejuvenate the skin and to have healing,
soothing and moisture retaining properties.
They are good for rough, damaged skin and
can, with time, alleviate wrinkling and enable
skin tissue to regain its youthful elasticity.
Ointment and Face Toner Recipes.

You can also add 3-6% of the water-based
Comfrey Glycerol Extract to these Recipes in
addition to using the Decoction or the
Tincture.
Kolbjorns suggestions for the use of
fresh Comfrey Root Decoction:
Allantoin promotes skin cell regeneration,

stimulates the growth of new cells and helps
sensitive skin to become more resilient,
counteracting dryness and cracking.
Adding the Decoction to an Ointment or

Cream Recipe and using it to treat tendinitis
yields very good results, which makes it ideal
for people actively involved in sports.
Comfrey Glycerol Extract can also be added

to products already containing other Comfrey
preparations such as Tinctures or Decoctions.
This will enhance the healing, moisturising and
soothing effects of your product. It is
particularly good to add the Glycerol Extract
to Compresses, Shaving products, Shampoos,
Foam Baths and Skin Toners.
Adding 5% Arnica Tincture to the gel-like

Decoction is excellent in a Compress for
healing fractures and sprains. See method for
Wet Compresses on page 18.
Kolbjorns method for making and using
an effective Comfrey Decoction from
fresh Comfrey root:
Preparation and usage of Comfrey in

your products:
Fresh Comfrey roots get the best results and

it is easy to grow in your own garden as it
grows like a weed. To prepare the Comfrey
for boiling, peel the fresh roots, removing any
rotten or bruised parts.
Comfrey is used in Baths, Poultices,

Compresses, Macerated Oils, Ointments,
Creams & Lotions, Skin Toners, Shampoos,
Foam Baths, and Shaving products.
Chop the roots up into small pieces and boil

for 2-3 hours until the brown mucilage starts
to appear in the water. Use 100g-150g of
fresh Comfrey root per litre of water.
Add a strong Decoction to your Foam Bath

and Cream Recipes. Either make a fresh root
Decoction (see below) or use approximately
1 litre of water per 20-25g dried Comfrey
Roots to make a Decoction from dried roots.
For a Wet Compress, boil 20-25g dried
Comfrey roots or leaves, or make a fresh root
Decoction (see below) to apply overnight for
fracture and sprain healing.
For Whole Body Baths use 200g-300g fresh
root or 50-100g dried roots for the whole
bath. Or use 400-500g of the fresh leaves or
50-100g of dried Comfrey leaves.
For Poultices, use as much of the freshly
chopped root as you need to sufficiently cover
the affected area.
Add up to 10% of the Tincture to your
Once boiled, strain and use it in your Recipes.

You can store the Decoction for a few days in
the fridge. When adding this to a Cream or
Ointment (maximum 8% to an Ointment,
otherwise it separates), make sure you add
double the Preservative usually required for
your Recipe.
Add a natural colouring such as, for example,
Carotene, to your products to cover up the
brownish colour caused by Comfrey root.
- 35 -
Coltsfoot
Tussilago farfara
Synonyms: Galax, Galaxy, Wandflower,
Beetleweed.
Main constituents: Mucilage, carbohydrates

(approximately 8%) and up to 17% tannins.
Small quantities of Essential Oil and flavonoid
glycosides. These are thought to give the herb
anti-inflammatory and antitussive (cough
suppression) activity. Coltsfoot also contains
pyrrolizidine alkaloids, potentially toxic
constituents. The flowers do not contain
tannins but contain the yellow xanthophyll
pigment related to carotene which, when used
externally, has wound healing properties.
Parts used: Leaves and flowers. Flowers are

picked in early spring and the leaves are
picked in May/June, cut and dried.
and properties: Coltsfoot leaves have
historically been used by herbalists to alleviate
coughs due to all manner of conditions. It was
considered particularly useful for people with
chronic coughs, such as those due to
emphysema or silicosis. It is said to have
tissue-healing properties. Lilly Johansson used
it for this reason at her naturopathic hospital
in Follingegaarden, Sweden with very good
results. It has been used effectively for coughs
in mixtures with Icelandic Moss and Liquorice
Root.
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Considered to

be good for sensitive, spotty and also oily
complexions. Soothes, cleanses and softens
the skin and is considered to be especially
good for inflammations of the skin and for
holding moisture in the skins. Use as a
Tincture or strong Decoction in Moisturising
and Healing Creams, in Compresses, in Baths,
Skin Toners, Hair Treatment, including Hair
Packs, and Shampoos.
, Coltsfoot should not be used internally as it

can cause liver tumours. Note: the presence
of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which are toxic to
the liver in quantity over a prolonged period,
require caution for use of this herb. However,
normally applied doses used for a short period
of time will present little risk if you have no
history of liver problems or disease. People
should not use Coltsfoot for more than one
month consecutively unless on the advice of a
qualified herbalist. Preparations guaranteed to
be pyrrolizidine-free can be used indefinitely
and are preferable.
Coltsfoots mucilage from its leaves forms like

a gel on the skin and acts as a helpMoisturiser. The mucilage is actually a
carbohydrate-lipid complex capable of holding
large amounts of water and so is an excellent
hydrator. Because the Coltsfoot molecules are
too large to penetrate the skin, and so lie on
top of the skin, they help to fill in small lines
and wrinkles, making the skin look smoother.
This also serves to create a protective mucous
coat on the skin.
Coltsfoot leaves:
Make a strong Decoction of the leaves by
boiling the leaves for 10 minutes.
For Compresses, Foam Bath Recipes, Creams,
Skin Toners, Shampoos and Hair Treatment
use 15-20g dried leaves and flowers (if you can
obtain the flowers) per 1 litre of water for the
Decoction.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried
leaves and flowers (if you can obtain the
flowers) for the whole bath.
Tussilago farfara
36
Cornflower
Centaurea cyanus
Synonyms: Bachelors Button.

and properties: The Blue Cornflower has
been the national flower of Estonia since 1968.
The Latin name, cyanus, was given to the
Cornflower after a youthful devotee of the
goddess Flora (Cyanus), whose favourite
flower it was. The name of the genus is
derived from the Centaur, Chiron, who taught
mankind the healing virtue of herbs. It has long
been cultivated as a garden plant, in several
colours.
Traditionally it has been used to improve
digestion, regulate the gall bladder, liver and
kidneys as well as for menstrual disorders and
to increase resistance to infections. The
flower of the Cornflower was taken up in the
French Pharmacopoeia since 1884 because of
its anti-inflammatory properties, specially used
in ophthalmology (diagnosis and treatment of
disorders and diseases of the eye) and in
treating the area around the eyes.
Main constituents: Bitter principle,

flavonoid, glycosides potash salts,
chichorigenin, resin and tannins. The tannins
are astringent. Cornflower purportedly has an
antibiotic effect against staphylococci.
Skin Care: Used as a Skin Toner and in
Baths for its soothing and astringent effect on
the skin as well as for its antibacterial and
antioxidant properties.
Eye Care: Cornflowers major application is
for the treatment of the eye area and it is
used in Eye Baths and Washes for corneal
ulcers, conjunctivitis and as a Wash for minor
wounds. Add to Eye products such as Gels,
since it has a gentle astringent effect, but also
soothes inflamed and irritated skin.
Oral Care: Cornflower works well as a
Mouth Wash for mouth ulcers.
Hair Care: Cornflower is also used as Hair
Rinse. Some sources claim that it deepens the
colour of fair and greying hair.
Cornflower:
For Foam Baths, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths
and Wound Washes, and as a Hair Rinse,
make an Infusion of 15-20g flowers per 1 litre
of water.
For Shampoos and Skin Toners, use 15-20g
per 1 litre of water and use the Infusion
instead of water in your Recipe.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the
dried flowers (or 200g of the fresh flowers for
the whole bath).
For Eye Gels, add 1-2% of the Tincture to
your Recipes.
Centaurea cyanus
- 37 -
Dandelion
Taraxacum officinale
Synonyms: Lion's Tooth, Bitterwort, Wild

Endive, Priest's crown, Doonheadclock, Piss-abed, Irish Daisy, Blow Ball, Yellow Gowan,
Puffball, Clock Flower, Swine Snout, FortuneTeller, and Cankerwort.
used as a coffee substitute and Dandelion wine

is made from the fermented flowers.
The first mention of the Dandelion as a
medicine is in the works of Arabian physicians
of the tenth and eleventh centuries. In
medieval times, it was planted in the medicinal
gardens of monasteries and 13th-century
Welsh medicine praises its properties.
Parts used: Roots and Leaves.

and properties: Dandelion has a long
history. People have carried the seeds from
place to place for cultivation since before
written history and the plants leaves and
roots have been used for centuries to treat
liver, gall bladder, kidney, and joint problems.
Today it is popular as a detox herb and

general tonic, though it is often used in
combination with other cleansing and
strengthening herbs. It helps to detoxify the
body by strengthening the kidneys and liver,
cleansing the blood, and stimulating the
secretion of bile; thus aiding digestion and
acting as a mild laxative and stool softener.
Romans, Gauls and Celts enjoyed young

Dandelion leaves as a delicious food. AngloSaxon tribes of Britain and the Normans of
France continued to use the plant as food and
as medicine to control scurvy and as a
diuretic. Dandelion is still eaten today, with
the green leaves being used in salads or
cooked as a pot herb; flowers are often
dipped in batter and fried; dried roots are
It is a powerful diuretic but does not deplete

the body of potassium like many diuretics as it
itself has a high potassium content. It is used in
many countries around the world for the
treatment of: gall bladder, kidney and urinary
disorders; gallstones; hepatitis; jaundice;
cirrhosis; hypoglycaemia; dyspepsia with
constipation; oedema associated with high
blood pressure and heart weakness; anaemia;
chronic joint and skin complaints; gout;
eczema; and acne.
Dandelion may be taken as an Infusion of the
leaf, a Decoction of the root, Tincture or a
juice extraction. Fresh leaves may be added to
salads. The juice extraction is the most potent
for medicinal purposes.
Main constituents: Potassium, Sodium,
Calcium, Phosphorus and Iron.
Leaves: Are a richer source of Vitamin A than
carrots and contain some amounts of Vitamins
B, C and D. Roots: Bitter glycosides, tannins,
triterpenes, sterols, volatile oil, choline,
asparagin, and Inulin.
Internal use: Used internally for its blood
cleansing ability to treat: rashes; psoriasis;
eczema; cancers; chicken pox; measles;
infections; inflammations; boils; intestinal and
breast abscesses; red, swollen painful joints,
eyes, and skin; as well as fever. It is a good
idea to take Dandelion internally while you are
Taraxacum officinale
38
Echinacea
Echinacea purpurea
treating these conditions with external Skin
Care products.
External use: Fresh Dandelion juice will fight
bacteria and help heal wounds. The plant has
an antibacterial action, inhibiting the growth of
Staphococcus aureus, pneumococci,
meningococci, Bacillus dysenteriae, B. typhi, C.
diphtheriae, proteus. Dandelion has
reportedly been used to eradicate warts and
corns and to soothe calluses, bee stings, or
sores.
Preparation and usage of Dandelion:
The Infusion or Tincture is used in skin
preparations for its astringent and detoxifying
properties. Add to Creams and Ointments as
well as to Baths.
For Foam Bath Recipes make an Infusion of
15-20g dried flowers or 150-200g fresh
flowers, or 10-15g dried root or 100g fresh
chopped root per 1 litre of water.
Synonyms: American coneflower, black

Sampson, black Susan, cock-up-hat,
combflower, hedgehog, igelkopf, Indian head,
Kansas snake root, kegelblume, narrow-leaf
purple coneflower, purple coneflower, red
sunflower, rudbeckia, scurvy root, snakeroot,
solhatt, sun hat.
Parts used: Leaves and aerial parts.
and properties: Echinacea has a rich
tradition of use by North American Plains
Indians who used it medicinally more than any
other plant. It was introduced into US medical
practice in 1887 and was touted for use in
conditions ranging from colds to syphilis. It
continued to be prominent in modern
American medicine in the early 20th century,
and was discovered by Europeans, who have
used it extensively since the 1930s, when
modern research on Echinacea started in the
1930s in Germany. Today millions of
Europeans use Echinacea as their primary
therapy for colds, flus, infections, and for
general immune-boosting effects.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried

flowers or 400-500g fresh flowers, or 25g
dried root or 150-200g fresh chopped root
for the whole bath.
For Creams and Ointments, add up to10%
Tincture to your Recipes.
Echinacea purpurea
- 39 -
Preparation and usage of Echinacea:
Echinacea is antibacterial, inhibits the spread

of local infections, promotes the healing of
wounds that are slow to heal and strengthens
the body's natural immune defences against
viruses and bacteria. Used externally for
infections (persistent sores and formation of
pus), boils and other troublesome skin
ailments. Echinacea's antibacterial properties
can stimulate wound healing and are of benefit
to skin conditions such as burns, insect bites,
ulcers, psoriasis, acne and eczema. Its antiinflammatory properties may relieve arthritis
and lymphatic swelling.
To make an Infusion for use in your Skin Care

products use 15-20g dried herb to 1 litre of
water.
To add Echinacea Infusion to your Creams,
Lotions or Skin Toners, replace the water
with the Infusion in your Recipes.
For Compresses, use 15-20g dried herb to 1
litre of water or 5% of the Tincture diluted in
water.
Add 5-10% of the Tincture to your Ointment
Base.
Used for spots (where there is a bacterial

infection) and for staphylococcal and
streptococcal infections. Bathe affected area
with cotton wool dipped in Lactic Acid (3-4%
diluted in water) and apply Echinacea Tincture
after 5 minutes. Also used for cradle cap and
inflammation of the veins and gums. Echinacea
Tincture is used as a Mouth Wash and to
massage the gums.
Main constituents: Echinacein,
approximately 1.2% Essential Oil, Resin, the
alkaloid echinacoside 0.1% and other
constituents. Also contains betaine,
sesquiterpenes, caryophylene, polyacetylene,
rosmarinic acid, glycosides, echinacoside,
chicoric acid.
Skin Care: Considered to regulate and
soothe the skin and to enhance overall
immunity. Use in Ointments, Creams,
Compresses and Toners for wounds, skin
regeneration, skin infections, inflammatory
skin conditions and conditions such as
psoriasis and eczema. It is used primarily in
Tincture form, but an Infusion can also be
used. The Tincture is handy and easily diluted
for use in Compresses to dress (fresh)
wounds.
40
Elderflower
Sambucus nigra
Synonyms: Black Elder.
Today, it is also used externally for Mouth

Washes and as a Gargle for inflammation and
infections of the oral cavity and throat. It is
also commonly taken internally as an effective
fever-reduction remedy. Make a strong
Infusion of the tea and serve or drink at blood
temperature.
Parts used: Flowers, picked in June/July.

and properties: Popular these days as a
cold and flu medicine, the Elder tree has been
called 'the medicine chest of the common
people' and has been an important folk
remedy for centuries. Egyptians discovered
that using its flowers improved the
complexion while the Greeks used a tea from
the root as a laxative.
The Roman naturalist Pliny wrote about the
therapeutic value of this flowering tree in the
1st century AD, using its generic name
Sambucus nigra. Native Americans used Elder
internally as a treatment for respiratory
infections and constipation as well as
externally in Compresses for healing wounds.
In 17th century Britain, people drank
homemade wine and cordials that were
thought to prolong life and cure the common
cold. It is still a British favourite today, with
many people still making their own
Elderflower cordial or wine. In older times,
Elderflower was a common ingredient of Facial
Waters and Skin Toners.
For an even more efficient fever-reduction

method, you can cool down some of the
Infusion in the fridge and then apply to the
calves in the form of a Cold Compress. Simply
soak towels in the cold Infusion and leave
them wrapped around the calves for 5-10
minutes. Repeat the process until the body
temperature has been reduced to a more
healthy fever. This method was repeatedly
used successfully at Lilly Johanssons
naturopathic hospital in Sweden.
Main constituents: The flavonoids
(composed mainly of flavanol glycosides) and
triterpenes appear to be the main biologically
active constituents. Elderflower also contain
free aglycones; minerals, mainly potassium;
phenolic compounds; triterpene; sterols
(volatile oils; mucilage; pectin; plastocynin
(protein); sugar, tannins and small amounts of
Essential Oil.
Skin Care: Elderflower soothes, heals,
protects and tones sensitive skin and
stimulates its blood circulation. It is
particularly good for older, tougher, rugged
skin. It softens and evens out wrinkles and
eases sunburn. Oily, spotty skins are cleansed,
softened and toned. It soothes tender and
inflamed skin and certain kinds of eczema. It is
used in Baths, Face Toners, Compresses,
Masks, Eye Compresses and in Creams and
Lotions. It is used in Eye Compresses for
swollen and puffy eyes.
Sambucus nigra
- 41 -
Eyebright
Euphrasia spp
Preparation and usage of Elderflower:
Synonyms: Euphrasia.
Make an Infusion of the flowers for use in

your Skin care products.
Parts used: Dried aerial parts.

and properties: The word Euphrasia is of
Greek origin, deriving from
Euphrosyne (gladness), the name of one of
the Three Graces who was well known for
her joy, mirth and gladness, and these qualities
are thought to be given to this plant for the
valuable properties attributed to it as a an eye
medicine preserving eyesight and so bringing
gladness into the life of the sufferer. Although
known by the ancient Greeks, it was not until
14th century that it is mentioned for 'all evils of
the eye'. In Scotland the Highlanders made an
Infusion of the herb in milk, dipped a feather in
it and applied it to weak or inflamed eyes. The
dried herb is an ingredient in British herbal
tobacco.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Foam Bath

Recipes, Face Toners and Eye Compresses,
use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water
or 150-200g of the fresh flowers per 2-3 litres
of water.
For Compresses, use 30-40g dried flowers or
200g of the fresh flowers per 1 litre of water.
For Whole Baths use 50-100g dried flowers
or 250g of the fresh flowers for the whole
bath.
A fluid extract is prepared from the plant in

the fresh state, gathered when in flower and
cut off just above the root. Euphrasia is best
collected in July and August when in full flower
and the foliage is in the best condition.
Euphrasia spp
42
Modern herbalists use this herb for

weaknesses of the eyes such as opthalmia,
often combining it with Golden Seal is said to
be excellent for general eye disorders.
Eyebright was and continues to be used by
herbalists primarily as a Poultice or Eye Wash
for the topical treatment of eye inflammations,
including conjunctivitis/blepharitis, styes, the
treatment of eye fatigue and other
disturbances of vision. Traditionally, a
Compress made from an Infusion of Eyebright
is used to give relief from redness, swelling,
and visual disturbances due to eye infections.
It acts specifically on the mucous lining of the
eyes and nose and the upper part of the
throat to the top of the windpipe and
herbalists have recommended Eyebright for
problems of the respiratory tract, including
sinus infections, coughs, and sore throat. The
homoeopathic dose of Eyebright is used to
treat hayfever and related conditions.
Preparation and usage of Eyebright:

For Eye Baths, use an Infusion made with
1 litre of water per 15-20g dried herbs, or
1-2% of the Tincture diluted in water. If adding
Golden Seal Tincture, use maximum 1% plus
1% Eyebright Tincture.
Use 1-3% of the Tincture in your Eye Gel or
Eye Cream Recipes.
Dilute 1-2% of the Tincture in water and apply
it directly to the skin around the eyes.
Make a strong Infusion of the dried herbs
(15g-20g per litre of water), strain it
thoroughly and use it as Eye Drops.
For general eye problems, you can also drink
15-20 drops of Eyebright Tincture in water 3
times a day as well as using it externally.
Main constituents: Iridoid glycosides,

including aucubin. Tannins, both condensed
and hydrolysable gallic acid types, phenolic
acids including caffeic and ferulic volatile oil.
Also contains an unidentified alkaloid, sterols,
amino acids and choline.
Eye Care: Eyebright Infusion or Tincture is
used in Eye Baths for simple inflammation of
the eyes. Use 2-4% in Eye Gels or Eye Creams
or you can dilute the Tincture (2%) in water
and apply it directly onto the skin around the
eyes. For puffiness around the eyes, combine
with 1-2% Arnica Tincture.
For general eye problems, you can alternate
Poultices made from Ribwort (Plantain) or
Green Cabbage. On alternate nights use a
Clay Compress or Horsetail Decoction
Compress. Leave the Compresses or
Poultices on overnight. Whichever Compress
you are using, in the morning rinse your eyes
with an Infusion of Chamomile and Eyebright.
You can use the same Infusion to rinse your
eyes throughout the day if needed.
- 43 -
Ginkgo
Ginkgo biloba
Synonyms: Maidenhair tree.
The Extract taken from the Gingko leaves is

used for circulation, memory and numerous
other reasons and is very effective in aiding
the circulatory system. Two Ginkgo trees that
were situated near to the atomic bomb blast
in Hiroshima are still alive; and when a temple
that was destroyed during the blast was
rebuilt after the war, it was done so with its
staircase around one of the trees, so that it
would not have to be disturbed.
Parts used: Leaves and seeds.

and properties: The Ginkgo tree first
appeared on the earth some 190 million years
ago, and since that time it has survived all the
changes that have occurred. It is thought that
the Ginkgo tree has probably existed on earth
longer than any other tree. The tree itself can
grow 30 metres in height and to a breadth of
7 metres.
It is used for a wide range of purposes mostly related to its ability to improve
circulation and act as an antioxidant.
Ginkgo biloba maintains the supply of blood to
the brain and other extremities, consequently
supplying these areas with more oxygen and
sugar for their needs. It is believed to help
sustain blood fluidity. It is believed to protect
cells from damage because certain active parts
have antioxidant effects.
, It dilates blood vessels and thins the blood,
so should not be used for people with
extremely low blood pressure. It is also not
suitable for insulin-dependent diabetics.
The tree has beautiful fan-shaped leaves, which

have led it to be known as the 'Maidenhair
tree'. The fan-shaped leaves are bilobed (the
leaf has two lobes); hence, the plant was given
the name Ginkgo biloba.
The uses of Ginkgo in Chinese medicine date
back around 5000 years, and have been well
documented over the centuries.
Main constituents: Leaves: flavone

glycosides (including ginkgolide) bioflavones,
sitosterol, lactones, anthocyanin. Seeds: fatty
acids, minerals, bioflavones
Skin Care: Ginkgo biloba is known for its
great revitalising, stimulating, firming and
powerful antioxidant qualities. It has been
found to improve circulation by helping to
increase healthy blood flow to skin, and is
therefore good for bringing nutrients to the
skin, ultimately improving the appearance of
the skin. All of its qualities make Gingko a
good choice to add to anti-aging Skin Care
properties.
Take the Tincture internally and/or add it to
Creams and Gels. For internal use, take 10-15
drops three times a day in a glass of water.
Preparation and usage of Gingko:
For Creams and Gels, add 5-10% of the
Tincture to your Recipes.
Ginkgo biloba
44
Ginseng
Panax ginseng
Synonyms: Five-leaf ginseng, Ginseng radix,
Hakushan, Hungshengjenseng, Jenshen, Man
Root, Oriental ginseng and too many more to
mention here.
different parts of plant to the different organs

(in colour, shape, etc.) should be used for
treatment of these specific organ systems)
Ginseng can be used to strengthen any part of
the body.
Parts used: Root.

and properties: Asian Ginseng has been a
part of Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years.
The first reference to the use of Asian ginseng
dates to the 1st century A.D. Ginseng is
commonly used by elderly people in the
Orient to improve mental and physical vitality.
The word panax comes from the Greek
panacea or all-healing, while shen-seng
translates as man-root describing what its
most useful medicinal part looks like.
According to the Doctrine of
Signatures (theory that states resemblance of
Ginseng acts in the following ways:

Adaptogen adaptogenic herbs increase
resistance and resilience to stress, enabling
the body to adapt around the problem and
avoid reaching collapse.
Tonic nurtures and enlivens the body. They
are used frequently in Traditional Chinese and
Ayurvedic medicine, often as a preventative
measure. Tonic herbs like Ginseng build vital
energy, or qi. Ginseng combats the physical
effects of stress.
Stimulant quickens and invigorates the
physiological and metabolic activity of the
body, including the immune system.
Hypoglycaemic decreases blood sugar
level.
Antioxidant lowering the levels of free
radicals in the blood, contributing to anti-aging
effects.
Main constituents: Saponin glycosides these are referred to as the ginsenosides by
Japanese and panaxosides by Russian
scientists; at least 13 ginsenosides have been
isolated; volatile oil, containing b-elemene, a
diene panaxynol, and two acetylenic
compounds, panaxydol and panaxytriol,
falcarinol and falcarintriol; and Vitamins.
Note: Siberian Ginseng (Eleutherococcus
senticosus) is not considered a true ginseng;
instead of a fleshy root, it has a woody root;
instead of ginsenosides, eleutherosides are
present.
Panax ginseng
- 45 -
Horse Chestnut
Aesculus hippocastanum
Synonyms: Buckeye, Bongay, Chestnut,

Conkers, Conquerors, Eschilo, Fish poison,
Hippocastanum vulgare, Hippocastabi folium,
Hippocastani semen, Spanish chestnut and
many more.
Skin Care: Ginseng is used in natural Skin

Care products for its toning and vitalising
effects on the skin. Ginseng helps to balance
the oil gland production and improves the skin
texture by preventing the formation of
wrinkles. Add to Toners, Gels, Creams and
Lotions.
Parts used: Seeds.

and properties: Horse Chestnut leaves
have been used by herbalists as a cough
remedy and to reduce fevers. The leaves were
also believed to reduce pain and inflammation
of arthritis and rheumatism. In traditional
herbal medicine, Poultices of the seeds have
been used topically to treat skin ulcers and
skin cancer. Other uses include the internal
and external application for problems of
venous circulation, including varicose veins
and haemorrhoids.
Note: Siberian Ginseng Extract is added to

Gels, Creams, Lotions and Skin Toners for its
cleansing, rejuvenating, toning, moisturising,
anti-wrinkle and skin cell stimulant properties,
although it is most effective in Gels. Siberian
Ginseng Extract makes an effective
combination with Panax ginseng. For internal
use, take 10-15 drops of the Tincture three
times a day in a glass of water.
Preparation and usage of Ginseng in
Skin Care products:
Horse Chestnut is still used as an astringent

with particular effect on the venous
circulation. It is also diuretic and prevents
oedema. Aescin, the saponin found in the
seeds, has been shown to: promote circulation
through the veins; foster normal tone in the
walls of the veins, thereby promoting return
of blood to the heart; possess antiinflammatory properties; and to reduce
oedema (swelling with fluid) following trauma,
particularly following sports injury, surgery,
and head injury.
This has made both topical (externally on the
affected area) and internal Horse Chestnut
Add 5-10% of the Panax Ginseng Tincture to

your Recipes for Toners, Gels, Creams and
Lotions.
Add 5-10% of the Siberian Ginseng Extract to
your Recipes for Gels, Creams and Lotions.
See Aromantics Education Pack 2 for more
extensive information about Siberian Ginseng
Extract.
Aesculus hippocastanum
46
Horseradish
Armoracia rusticana
Synonyms: Red cole.
extracts popular in Europe for the treatment

of chronic venous insufficiency and, to a lesser
extent, varicose veins. In addition, topical
aescin preparation is very popular in Europe
for the treatment of acute sprains during
sporting events.
Parts used: Root.

and properties: Horseradish, known for its
pungent taste, has been used as a medicine
and condiment for centuries in Europe. Its
name is derived from the common practice of
naming a food according to its similarity with
another food (Horseradish was considered a
rough substitute for radishes).
Most important active ingredients: The

seeds are the source of a saponin known as
aescin (see more in properties below). Horse
Chestnuts also contain tannins, oils, resin,
pectin, flavonoids and sterols.
Internal use: Make an Infusion or take it as
a Tincture: 10-15 drops three times a day in a
glass of water. Remember to follow the
instructions given by the manufacturer or seek
the advice of a qualified herbalist when unsure
whether to take herbs internally.
External use: Horse Chestnut is used
externally in Compresses, Baths and Sun Care
products. Horse Chestnut is a very important
ingredient for treating varicose veins. Add to
Creams, Gels and Compresses for this
purpose. Aesculin found in Horse Chestnut
absorb harmful UV rays, which makes it an
excellent addition to your Sun Care products.
Horseradish was utilised both internally and

externally by European herbalists. Internally, it
was considered to be a diuretic and was used
by herbalists to treat kidney stones, urinary
infections or oedema. It was also
recommended as a digestive stimulant and
used for its antibacterial and diuretic effect to
treat worms, coughs, bronchitis, toothache,
sore throats and even migraines.
Preparation and usage of Horse

Chestnut:
Use a Tincture or make a Decoction using
15-20g of the dried seeds or 100-150g of the
fresh leaves per 1 litre of water by boiling for
10-15 mins and allow to infuse for 30 mins.
Use a Decoction (see paragraph above)
instead of water in your Foam Bath Recipes.
For Varicose Vein Compresses, use a
Decoction or 4-5% of the Tincture diluted in
water (1 teaspoon to 100ml of water).
For Varicose Vein Creams and Gels, add 2-5%
Horse Chestnut Tincture.
To add up to 10% of the Tincture to Sun
Protection Cream, use 10ml of the Tincture
per 100ml of the Cream.
Armoracia rusticana
For Whole Body Baths, use 50g-100g dried

seeds or 300-400g fresh Horse Chestnut
leaves.
- 47 -
Preparation and usage of Horseradish:
Main constituents: A number of antibiotic

constituents, mainly Essential Oil and other
volatile oils. Horseradish contains volatile oils
that are similar to those found in mustard.
These include glucosinolates (mustard oil
glycosides), gluconasturtiin, and sinigrin, which
yield allyl isothiocynate when broken down in
the stomach. In test tubes, the volatile oils in
Horseradish have shown antibiotic properties.
The Oxymel can be made by mixing

approximately 100g freshly grated
Horseradish Root with 600g honey and 100ml
vinegar. Mix it thoroughly and leave to stand
for 2-3 weeks.
The Tincture is made with 100g freshly grated
root to 300-400ml alcohol.
External use: Applied to the skin, it causes

reddening and was used on arthritic or painful
joints, sciatica, old wounds, irritated nerves or
swellings. Horseradish is a very strong
antiseptic, and makes an excellent
replacement for garlic for those who cant use
garlic for whatever reason. Garlic must never
be used on the skin, for example, but
Horseradish can be used on the skin.
For Compresses, use 4-5% Tincture diluted in

water.
A fresh Root Poultice can be prepared by
grating the fresh root and spreading it on a
linen cloth or thin gauze. You can also use a
Horseradish Oxymel instead of the fresh,
grated root. This is then applied to the skin
once or twice per day until a burning
sensation is experienced, at which point it is
removed immediately.
For best results use the fresh root, grated or

sliced into thin strips or in the form of an
Oxymel or Tincture. According to
Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine,
the combination of vinegar and honey called
Oxymel was used as a base for many
medicinal herbal formulas. Horseradish
Oxymel used in the form of a Poultice is used
for sore throats and old wounds. The
Tincture or fresh root is used in Poultices for
wounds that are difficult to heal. The Tincture
is somewhat strong but effective for fresh
wounds. Also good for herpetic whitlow (an
infection of the herpes virus around the
fingernail) and other persistent and
complicated injuries.
, If used in amounts higher than
recommended, Horseradish can cause

stomach upset, vomiting, or excessive
sweating.
, Direct application to the skin or eyes

may cause irritation and burning.
, Horseradish should be avoided by
people with hypothyroidism, gastritis,

peptic ulcer disease, and kidney
disorders.
, Horseradish should not be used by
women during pregnancy or breastfeeding or by children under four years

of age.
48
Horsetail
Equisetum arvense
Synonyms: Bottle-brush, Horse Willow,
Paddock-pipes, Pewterwort, Scouring Rush,
Shave Grass, Toadpipe.
Parts used: Whole plant. When collecting
Horsetail it is important to gather the right
variety (Equisetum palustre is poisonous).
and properties: In folk medicine, Horsetail
has been used for tuberculosis, profuse
menstrual bleeding, brittle finger nails, hair
loss, water retention, bed wetting, rheumatic
diseases, gout, swelling, fractures, frostbite,
and nasal, pulmonary, and gastric bleeding.
Reportedly first recommended by the
Roman physician Galen, several cultures have
employed Horsetail as a folk remedy for
kidney and bladder troubles, arthritis,
bleeding ulcers, and tuberculosis. In addition,
the topical use of Horsetail was used
traditionally to stop the bleeding of wounds
and promote rapid healing. It is a good spring
cleaning detoxification herb. There is
evidence that Horsetail builds the immune
and nervous systems. It is recommended for
urinary tract infections. In addition, the plant
can incorporate dissolved gold and other
minerals into its structure and is used in
Europe as a treatment for arthritis.
Horsetail contains the highest amounts of

Silica of all known herbs. In addition to Silica,
Horsetail contains large amounts of potassium
as well as starch and many fatty acids.
Use Horsetail in a Compress for sores,
psoriasis, eczema, chilblains and varicose veins.
It will soothe and reduce itchiness.
Main constituents: Silica (5-8%), saponins
(5%), tannins and flavonoid glycosides. Large
amounts of silicic acid and silicates (about
15%), flavonoids, phenolic acids, alkaloids
(including nicotine) sterols and phytosterols,
saponins, bitter principle, minerals (potassium,
manganese, magnesium, calcium, chromium,
iron, phosphorus, and selenium), tannins.
Skin and Body Care: Often called the
Beauty Herb, Horsetail is considered to
strengthen connective tissue and skin. It: is
clarifying; is astringent; closes the pores; and
stimulates production of new skin cells when
used to treat eczema. Because of its high silica
content the whole plant is used as an abrasive.
A strong Decoction is used externally for
Baths, Foot Baths and Compresses in the
treatment of problematic sores, psoriasis,
eczema, athlete's foot and other fungicidal
ailments.
Hair and Nail Care: Because of its high
Silica content, Horsetail is excellent for adding
strength, thickness and shininess to hair.
Simply add a strong Decoction of Horsetail to
your Shampoo recipes. Add to a Hair Rinse
and use regularly for an effective tonic against
dandruff and fungi.
Take internally to improve the condition of
your skin and nails.
Dental Care: The dried herb is ground to
produce an abrasive powder used to remove
tartar on the teeth.
The Decoction or diluted Tincture is used as a
Gargle for throat infections.
Equisetum arvense
- 49 -
Hyssop
Hyssopus officinalis
Synonyms: None.
A personal note about Horsetail from

Kolbjorn Borseth:
Parts used: Aerial parts. i.e. stem, leaves and

flowers.
While talking to the retired managing doctor

of the Dr. Hauschka skin care company in the
1990s, he very much stressed the use of
Horsetail preparations for healing psoriasis,
due to the herbs high silica content. So, I
recommend that you always use Horsetail in
your products for psoriasis. You can also take
silica tablets internally while using external
psoriasis products.
Traditional use & history: The name

Hyssop is derived from the Hebrew ezob
meaning holy herb. A member of the mint
family, whose flowers and evergreen leaves
have long been used as a stewing herb or
flavouring for foods and beverages and as a
folk medicine, Hyssop reportedly originated in
the area around the Black Sea in central Asia
and today is widely cultivated in other arid
regions, partly because it thrives even in the
most desolate soils.
, Dont pick your own Horsetail without

knowing being absolutely sure that you can
identify it properly. You may easily mistake
it for a poisonous type.
It is found native in the Mediterranean region

and is commercially cultivated in Europe,
Russia and India. In the past, Hyssop was so
highly esteemed it was regarded as a virtual
cure-all. Once widely cultivated for medicinal
uses, it is now grown mostly as an ornamental
shrub. Currently an undervalued medicinal
herb, Hyssop is potentially useful, as it is both
calming and tonic.
Preparation and usage of Horsetail:

Make a strong Decoction that will extract
parts of the Silica from the Horsetail.
NB The herb has to be boiled for 20-30
minutes so that the Silica is extracted.
For Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Foam Baths,
use a Decoction made with 15-20g dried herb
per 1 litre of water.
Hyssop has long been used as a folk medicine

for colic, flatulence, and indigestion; or taken
as a hot tea for bronchial infections; or used
topically on cuts & burns. The antimicrobial
properties of Hyssop have been subjected to
controlled studies and it is one of the more
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g of the

dried herb, or 500g of the fresh herb for the
whole bath.
For Wet Compresses use 25-30g dried herb
per 1 litre of water.
For use as an abrasive Tooth Powder, grind
the dried herb in a coffee grinder, dip
toothbrush into the rough powder and brush
teeth.
Add the dried ground herb 2-5% to
Toothpaste Recipes.
For Gargles or Mouth Washes, use a strong
Decoction of 25-30g per litre of water or up
to 10% of the Tincture diluted with water and/
or other ingredients.
50
Hyssopus officinalis
credible medicinal herbs. An ancient medicinal

cleansing herb, it was also used for its flavour
and aroma to preserve meat.
It is mentioned in both the Old and New
Testaments of the Christian bible as a
cleansing agent, including Davids prayer in
Psalms, Purge me with Hyssop, and I shall be
clean. The East Indians knew it, and both the
Arabs and Jews venerated the plant.
Dioscorides recommended boiling it with rue
and honey for a cough. In Sicily it is believed
to ward off the evil eye and evil magic. Early
20th century doctors who recommended
herbs in the United States used the herb
externally to soothe burned skin. Today,
France is the major producer of Hyssop and
Hyssop is used to flavour various liqueurs,
including Chartreuse.
the same way as Sage, with which it is

sometimes combined to make a Gargle for a
sore throat. Hyssop tea can be used for poor
digestion, breast and lung problems, coughs
due to colds, nose and throat infections,
mucous congestion in the intestines,
flatulence, scrofula, dropsy, jaundice, and even
asthma. Hyssop serves not only as a culinary
herb but in many countries including Hungary,
where it is used as a folk medicine against
certain respiratory diseases and winter colds.
External use - Skin Care: According to
famous 20th century herbalist Maurice
Messgu, Hyssop contains substances which
protect the skin against sunburn so makes and
excellent addition to Sun Protection Creams.
Hyssop is antiperspirant and astringent, like
Sage, and can be used in Deodorants. Used as
a Compress for varicose ulcers and other
infected sores, which are difficult to heal, and
for eczema and burns. Also for fungal
infections and insect bites. An Infusion in a
Compress together with Arnica makes an
effective Compress for treating superficial
bruises. Hyssop is used in Whole Body Baths
to heal ulcerated or irritated skin.
Possible future uses: Test tube studies

have found that certain fractions of Hyssop
(one being a polysaccharide designated as
MAR-10) may inhibit the activity of the human
immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Yet, there have
been no studies in humans to determine
whether Hyssop or any of its constituents are
effective in treating HIV infection or AIDS.
Hair Care: Adding an Infusion of Hyssop to

Hair Rinses and Shampoos will help to get rid
of lice and also to cure beard itchiness.
, The Infusion and Tincture of Hyssop are

unlikely to cause adverse effects. Although
the volatile oil present in Hyssop,
particularly its constituent pinocamphone,
has been reported to cause seizures in
laboratory animals as well as in humans. So,
Hyssop should not be used for those with
epilepsy or any other seizure disorder or
during pregnancy. Check with a qualified
herbalist to check which doses are safe or
whether to make use of it at all.
Oral Care: Use in Mouth Washes and

Gargles for inflammation of the oral cavity and
throat.
Preparation and usage of Hyssop:
Make a strong Infusion to use in your
products.
Main constituents: Its active constituents

are volatile oil, flavonoids, tannins and the
bitter substance, marrubin. Also contains
0.3-1% Essential Oil, including thujon, 5-8%
tannins, flavonoid glycosides, diterpenoid
lactones, triterpenoids, diosmin, oleanolic acid,
pinocamphone, isopinocamphone, and
hyssopin. , Pinocamphone can cause seizures
(see end of Hyssop section for more details).
For Compresses, Washes, and Deodorants,

Hair Rinses, Shampoos, Conditioners and
Creams and Lotions, particularly Sun products
use 15-20g dried Hyssop per 1 litre of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of dried
Hyssop.
Use 1% Essential Oil of Hyssop in the same
product as you are using the Infusion.
Internal use: Hyssop is used in essentially

- 51 -
Lady's Mantle
Alchemilla vulgaris
Synonyms: Bear's Foot, Lion's Foot, Nine

Hooks, and Stellaria.
Internal use: It is used internally for

excessive or irregular menstruation, as well as
menopausal problems. Lady's Mantle is a great
herb to use in cases of mild diarrhoea and
cankers and a Gargle is effective for sore
throats. It also has venotonic properties,
which makes it useful to treat vascular (vein)
problems.
Parts used: Leaves and Root.

and properties: Lady's Mantle is a perennial
herb found in Europe, North America, and
Asia that has been used medicinally since the
middle ages. In the medieval period Ladys
Mantle was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The
herb came to be known as Lady's Mantle
because of the scalloped shape of its leaves,
which were thought to resemble the mantle of
the Virgin Mary. The crystal dewdrops on the
leaves have long inspired poets and alchemists
and it is said that they used to the dewdrop to
transform lead into gold. That is why the
flower is called alchemilla. It was said to have
healing and magical properties, even to
preserve a woman's youth.
External use - Skin and Body Care: Used

in Skin Care products for its healing effects. It
is said to soothe, cleanse and heal dry,
sensitive skin. It reduces swellings, is good for
chapped and broken skin on the hands and
feet. In addition, it has an astringent effect on
the skin and protects newly formed elastin
fibres. Elastin is required for skin elasticity, and
is a protein in the skin, which together with
collagen and glycosaminoglycans, makes up the
connective tissue. Its astringent properties
also make it effective for treating skin with
large pores. Its venotonic properties help with
vascular health. It can furthermore be used to
treat sores (including those on the scalp),
septic wounds and inflamed skin such as
eczema and psoriasis.
In folk medicine, Lady's Mantle has also been

taken for menopausal complaints, painful
menstrual periods, mouth and throat
infections, eczema, and skin rashes. The leaves
can also be boiled to make a light, green dye.
Add Ladys Mantle to Anti-Wrinkle Creams,

Whole Body and Foot Baths, Compresses,
Facial Steam Baths, Face Toners and Cleansing
Creams and Lotions.
Main constituents: 6-8% tannins, consisting

mainly of glycosides of ellagic acid; flavonoids,
bitter principles, traces of Essential Oil; and a
trace of salicylic acid.
Eye Baths: It is used as Eye Baths for the

inflammation of the mucous membrane in the
eyes.
Oral Care: It is also used as a Mouth Wash
after tooth extraction.
Preparation and usage of Ladys Mantle:
Make an Infusion to use in your products.
For Creams, Lotions, Compresses, Facial
Steam Baths, Mouth Washes, Skin Toners,
Foam Baths, Shampoos and Eye Baths use
15-20g dried, or 150-200g fresh, herbs to 1
litre of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g, or 5001000g fresh leaves, for the whole bath.
NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs in
the bath for the best results.
Alchemilla vulgaris
52
Lavender
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis
Synonyms: English Lavender, True
Lavender.
Lavender has been prized for its wonderful

perfume since Elizabethan times when it was
used for sweetening washing water and
disguising smells. The reverence for its
perfume still continues today and Lavender
Essential Oil is very, very popular for use at
home by people who use it for its relaxing
properties. Apart from its medicinal uses, it
has culinary and cosmetic uses as well. You
can use Lavender to make Lavender sugar,
jellies, ice cream and vinegars. It can also be
crystallised for use as a cake decoration.

and properties: The name Lavender comes
from the Latin root lavare, which means to
wash. Lavender has been used for centuries
as an herbal remedy for its antiseptic,
antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory,
anticonvulsive, as well as antidepressant
properties.
The Romans introduced Lavender and its uses
into England and Europe. They used the
flower heads in their communal baths not only
for their fragrance but probably also as an
antibacterial agent. The ancient Greeks are
also thought to have used Lavender for
treatment of throat infections and chest
complaints. In medieval times herbalists used
Lavender to prevent head lice. For many
centuries Lavender flowers have been tied
into small bundles and placed into pillows or
laundry to make them smell pleasant and to
keep bugs away.
There is a lot of folklore surrounding

Lavender for e.g. the belief that putting the
flowers between the bed sheets will ensure
that a couple will never quarrel. Lavender is
native to the Mediterranean region and is
cultivated in large quantities in France, Spain,
Britain, Australia, Russia, and Eastern
European countries, particularly Bulgaria.
Recent studies bear out years of anecdotal
evidence showing that Lavender produces
calming, soothing, and sedative effects and it is
very widely used both internally and externally
for a number of reasons.
Although it is the Lavender Essential Oil that
is most often used, the fresh or dried flowers
and the Tincture made from Lavender flowers
are all still popular for both internal and
external use. The dried flowers are used in
sleep and dream pillows, in pot pourris,
sachets and tucked in drawers to freshen
clothing and repel moths.
Main constituents: The most abundant
constituents are the Linalyl esters predominately Linalyl-acetate - with lesser
amounts of linalyl-butyrate, linalyl-caproate,
linalyl-isobutyrate and linalyl-valerate. Also
present are linalol, cineole, geraniol, borneol,
camphor, pinene, limonene, b-Ocimene,
tannins, flavonoids, phytosterols, and caproic
acid. The most fragrant and valuable Essential
Oil preparations have the highest
concentration of linalyl-acetate, sometimes up
to 70%.
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis
- 53 -
Internal use: Internally, Lavender as an

Infused Tea or as a Tincture, is believed to be
of benefit for a multitude of problems,
including allergies, asthma, bronchitis,
inflammations, throat infections, stress,
nervousness, anxiety, palpitations, exhaustion,
irritability, headaches, migraines, insomnia,
depression, colds, digestion, flatulence, upset
stomach, liver and gallbladder problems,
nervousness, and for loss of appetite, etc.
Oral Care: Used as a Mouth Wash, it makes

an excellent breath freshener.
Hair Care: Infusion of Lavender flowers
makes a good Hair Rinse to help reduce hair
loss and dandruff. Add also to Shampoos.
Preparation and usage of Lavender:
Add Lavender to Compresses, Whole Body
and Foot Baths, Facial Steam Baths, Creams,
Ointments, Lotions, Face Toners, Cleansers,
Hair products, Deodorants, Mouth Washes
and Insect Repellents.
External use - Skin and Body Care:

Lavender is considered to be a Beauty
product. Lavender has many sedative
compounds that can penetrate the skin.
Especially good for normal and dry skin,
Lavender is also used as a tonic for all types of
skin. As a treatment for wounds, the Tincture
is considered to be the most effective
(contains both the Essential Oil and tannins).
When using pure Essential Oil it is best to mix
it with an Oil, Lotion or Cream base. A
Macerated Oil can be made using the fresh
flowers and used as a relaxing Face or Body
Massage Oil.
Make an Infusion, then keep the lid on and

allow to draw for 30 minutes. Then combine
with the Essential Oil or Hydrolate during the
making of the product.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Mouth
Washes, Cleansers, Toners, Facial Steam
Baths, use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of
water.
For a Whole Body Bath use 50-100g of dried
Lavender Flowers or 500-1000g of fresh
flower heads.
All types of Lavender have excellent healing

properties and it is applied topically to treat
cuts, sores, scrapes, sprains, wounds, burns,
bee, wasp, and insect stings, rashes, muscle
aches, lumbago, rheumatism, arthritis, cold
sores, canker sores, fungal infections, acne,
eczema, blisters, bruises, athlete's foot, or
rubbed directly into the temples in case of
headache or migraine. You can also use a
Hydrolate and Still Water mixture instead of
an Infusion, which is especially effective for
treating acne, inflammations, eczema and
wounds.
For Baths, Mouth Washes, Compresses, Skin

Toners, Insect Repellents and Deodorants,
use a strong Lavender Infusion by using 25-30g
dried flowers per 1 litre of water or you can
use a mixture of 20% Lavender Flower Water
(Hydrolate) and 80% water.
Use 5-10% Lavender Tincture in Ointments.
A Whole Body Bath is an excellent way to

both enjoy the relaxing benefits of Lavender
and also to calm skin after too much sun. To
maximise the relaxing and soothing effects,
combine with Chamomile flowers in an
Infusion for the Bath.
54
Lemon Balm
Melissa officinalis
Synonyms: Melissa, Common Balm, Sweet

Balm, Balm.
Parts used: Whole plant (leaves).
and properties: The word Balm is an
abbreviation of Balsam, the chief of sweetsmelling oils. It is so called from its honeyed
sweetness. It was highly esteemed by
Paracelsus, who believed it would completely
revivify a man. It was formerly esteemed of
great use in all complaints supposed to
proceed from a disordered state of the
nervous system.
Charlemagne (714-814AD) once ordered
Lemon Balm planted in every monastery
garden because of its beauty. The London
Dispensary (1696) says: 'An essence of Balm,
given in Canary wine, every morning will
renew youth, strengthen the brain, relieve
languishing nature and prevent baldness.' John
Evelyn wrote: 'Balm is sovereign for the brain,
strengthening the memory and powerfully
chasing away melancholy.' Balm steeped in
wine we are told again, 'comforts the heart
and driveth away melancholy and sadness.'
Formerly a spirit of Balm, combined with
lemon-peel, nutmeg and Angelica Root,
enjoyed a great reputation under the name of
Carmelite Water, being deemed highly useful
against nervous headache and neuralgic
affections.
Today, Lemon Balm is mainly used for its

soothing effect, to strengthen the nervous
system in cases of depression, melancholy,
migraine etc. The Infusion is supposed to be
antiviral.
Main constituents: Essential Oils (mainly
citral and citronellol, eugenol, flavonoids,
triterpenoids, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid,
methyl carnosoate, hydroxycinnamic Aacid,
polyphenols, and tannins.
Skin Care: Effective in Creams and Toners
for mildly oily skin. It cleanses and closes open
pores, has an astringent and soothing effect
when used as a Face Toner or a Facial Steam
Bath for tired, sensitive skin. Used externally
for pain associated with the nervous system,
rheumatic pain, healing of wounds (enhances
scar tissue formation) in Compresses, in
Baths, Creams and Lotions. Lemon Balm is
also used in Baths for melancholy and
insomnia.
Hair Care: Add to Shampoos for a soothing
effect.
Tip: Genuine Essential Oil of Lemon Balm is
very expensive. All of the less expensive
Essential Oils are mixtures containing other
Essential Oils with similar constituents, such as
citronellol.
Preparation and usage of Lemon Balm:
Make an Infusion to use in your products.
Prepare Infusion, cover with a lid, and allow to
draw for 30 minutes. You can also use the
Tincture in your products as this is the best
way to preserve the Essential Oil content. The
Essential Oil evaporates very easily with drying
and storage; once gone the herb has a
different effect as the tannins become
dominant and the soothing effect disappears.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, and Foam
Baths infuse 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of
water, or use 100-110g fresh herb per 2 litres
of water.
Melissa officinalis
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the

dried herb or 400-500g of the fresh herb for
the whole bath.
- 55 -
Marigold
Calendula officinalis
Synonyms: Calendula, Pot Marigold.
Formerly its bright orange flowers were used

to give cheese and other foods a yelloworange colour in the absence of saffron.
Marigold is an excellent remedy for cuts and
wounds, and their antiseptic and healing
properties help to prevent the spread of
infection and speed up the rate of repair.

and properties: Calendula is one of the best
known and versatile healing herbs and is rich
in herbal history, widely used by herbalists
throughout the centuries. Calendula is
believed to have originated in or near the
Mediterranean and is now naturalised all over
the world. The herb is also known as common
Marigold or pot Marigold because the dried
flowers were traditionally used in soups and
stews to help ward off illness.
Used externally in the treatment of chronic,

slow healing sores such as bed sores and
varicose ulcers. Also for frostbite, burns and
eczema. Marigold, through the combined
action of its Essential Oil, which is antibiotic,
and other constituents, stimulate the immune
system and enhance the body's fight against
infection. It rapidly promotes skin tissue repair
and minimises scar formation, is antiinflammatory, and promotes granulation.
Other key actions of this plant are the
following: astringent, heals wounds, antiseptic,
antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, constricts the
capillaries, (an action that explains its
effectiveness for cuts, wounds, varicose veins,
and various inflammatory conditions).
Ancient Egyptians and Romans valued

Calendula highly, and, noticing that in their
warm, temperate climates it was always in
bloom on the first day of each month, called it
calends, after the calendar. It is known as the
flower of the sun, with its petals of golden
orange. They have also been associated with
the sun's journey across the sky because they
open when the sun rises and close as it sets.
The herbalists Culpeper and Gerard refer to
Calendula as a comforter of the heart and
spirits. In some traditions, Calendula is a
symbol of endurance.
Calendula provides effective treatment for

most minor skin problems. It is used for cuts,
scrapes, wounds, red and inflamed skin,
including minor burns and sunburn, for acne,
rashes, and fungal conditions. It is helpful for
nappy rash and soothes nipples that are sore
from breast-feeding.
Also used as a Hot Compress in the
treatment of, and to draw out, boils and
carbuncles (infection of the hair follicle) and
used externally for varicose veins and as a
Mouth Wash for gum infections.
Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02%,
calenden, calendulin, mucilage, saponins,
organic acids, enzymes, resins, carotene
pigment xanthophyll, salicylic acid,
carbohydrates, cadinol, isorhamnetin,
triterpenes, sesquiterpenoids, scopoletin,
flavonoids, quercetin, kaempferol.
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Used for its
healing and tissue regenerating properties for
all skin types and conditions, including
sensitive skin and for babies. Marigold is good
to use in all cases where cell regeneration is
Calendula officinalis
56
required such as in cases of sunburn, sores,

where skin has been removed and also where
the skin is red and irritated. Also good as a
regular Wash for spots, acne and boils. Use
either a strong Infusion or the Tincture
combined with Arnica Tincture for sprains,
bruises, burns, frostbite and cold sores.
picked just after opening (not when they are

old). Marigold should be picked when the
flower is completely dry e.g. at the end of a
sunny day. Use them as they are, or dry them,
and make a Tincture or Infusion. You can add
2-3% of Marigold CO2 Extract to your
products too.
For excellent Healing Ointments, add Marigold

Tincture with Marigold CO2 Extract to your
Ointment recipe. Due to its carotene content,
in Marigold Ointment is excellent for healing
chapped skin on hands and feet. The carotene
is a powerful antioxidant and so works well to
fight the free radicals, the cause of the
chapped skin.
, Marigold CO2 Extract will colour your
A simple Marigold Ointment Compress can be

made by applying a generous amount of
Ointment onto the affected hand or foot,
cover it with a cotton gloves or cotton socks,
then a plastic glove or bag, and finally with
another cotton glove or cotton sock. Leave
on overnight, repeat a few nights in a row and
you will see an improvement in less than a
week.
A strong Infusion is helpful for use in Wound
Compresses and you can dilute the Tincture
in water for an especially effective Wound
Wash.
, If you are going to use a Marigold
Compress to help treat eczema, never

leave it on the affected area for more than
1 hour as some people may have an
allergic reaction to it if left on for a longer
period of time.
Hair Care: A Calendula Hair Rinse adds

shine to the hair and can also be used to
highlight the hair slightly red simply use a
strong Infusion.
Oral Care: Marigold makes an effective
antiseptic Mouth Wash to treat inflamed
gums.
Preparation and usage of Marigold:
Marigold does not grow in the wild but is very
easy to grow. The whole flower head is used,
product yellow.
For use in Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g

dried flowers, or 100g of fresh flowers, per 1
litre of water.
For an Antiseptic Mouth Wash, use a strong
Infusion or up to 10% Tincture diluted in
water or other ingredients.
For Shampoos, Conditioners and Creams, use
10-15g dried flowers, or 80-100g of fresh
flowers, per 1 litre of water. In addition to the
Infusion, you can add 2-3% Marigold CO2
Extract.
Add 3-5% Tincture, or 1-3% CO2 Extract, to
an already-made Cream base.
For Healing Ointments, add 5-10% Marigold
Tincture together with 2-3% Marigold CO2
Extract to your Ointment recipe.
For use as a Cleanser or in Compresses,
either use or make a strong Infusion by using
15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water, or
150-200g of fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of
water and use accordingly.
For an effective Wound Wash, dilute 3-6% of
the Tincture in water.
Marigold Tips: In Skin Care products it is a
good idea to use the Botanical CO2 Extract
and the Tincture or Infusion or so as to gain
the benefits of both the fat-soluble (Essential
Oil, carotene and resin) and the water-soluble
(viscous and saponins) constituents of the
plant. The combined action of these
constituents produces better results.
Genuine Essential Oil of Marigold is not
available and what is mistakenly sold as Oil of
Marigold is in fact made from Tagetes (African
Marigold).
- 57 -
Myrrh
Commiphora myrrha
Synonyms: Gum Myrrh, Sweet Cicely.
stimulate macrophages (key players in the

bodys immune system) in test tube studies.
Parts used: Gum Resin and Oil.
Myrrh is an astringent, healing, tonic and

stimulant. It is also: a direct emmenagogue; a
tonic in dyspepsia; an expectorant in the
absence of feverish symptoms; a stimulant to
the mucous tissues; a stomach carminative; an
appetite and gastric juice stimulant; an
astringent wash; an antiseptic for topical use;
an antiparasitic used to treat schistosomiasis
(also known as bilharzia).

and properties: The red-brown resin and
oil of Myrrh has been used since ancient times
as an ingredient in incense, perfumes, etc and
in the holy oil of the Jews and of the Kyphi of
the Egyptians for embalming and fumigations.
It was also used as a remedy for numerous
infections, including leprosy and syphilis. In
addition, Myrrh was recommended by
herbalists for relief from bad breath and for
dental conditions. In Traditional Chinese
Medicine, it has been used to treat bleeding
disorders and wounds.
Studies continue on the potential anticancer

and pain-relieving actions of Myrrh resin.
Human clinical trials are lacking to confirm
most uses of Myrrh and yet it has been wisely
used since ancient times.
Myrrh grows as a shrub in desert regions,

particularly in north-eastern Africa and the
Middle East. The resin obtained from the
stems is used in medicinal preparations.
Main constituents: Volatile oil, resin

(myrrhin), gum, polysaccharides, benzoates,
sulphates, malates, ash, triterpenoids,
triterpene acids, and an Essential Oil
containing sesquiterpenes and furano
sesquiterpenes.
The three main constituents of Myrrh are the

resin, the gum, and the volatile oil. All are
thought to be important in Myrrhs activity as
a herbal medicine. The resin has reportedly
been shown to kill various microbes and to
Oral Care: Myrrh is widely used in oral care

for its excellent antibacterial and pain-relieving
properties. Use of Myrrh Tincture, Infusion,
or diluted Essential Oil as a Mouth Wash or
Rinse is good for soothing and helping to heal
spongy, infected, inflamed and diseased gums,
tooth disease, halitosis, promoting general
dental health, ulcerated throat and ulcerative
colitis, sore throats; cold sores, canker sores.
Myrrh Resin is a common ingredient of Tooth
Powders.
Mouth Wash Recipe
(Good for killing bacteria, and fungi such as

Candida albicans, increasing the circulation
and healing wounds.)
30 ml Myrrh Tincture
20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil
5 drops Sweet Fennel Essential Oil
Method
1.
2.
Commiphora myrrha
58
Measure ingredients and mix together.

Place 5ml of this mixture into a glass of
Nettle, Stinging
Urtica dioica, urens.
Synonyms: Common Nettle, Stinging

Nettle.
lukewarm water, stir and then use as a

Mouth Wash or Gargle.
Skin and Body Care: In addition, Myrrh
Tincture is used internally and externally for
skin disturbances, including boils. The Tincture
has also been used extensively in Wound
Ointments and can be used undiluted as a
Wound Wash. Add Myrrh Tincture to Skin
Care products such as Creams, Lotions and
Ointments for mature, dry or chapped skin.
Nail Care: As a powerful antiseptic and
antifungal, Myrrh is an excellent ingredient for
Nail Baths to be used for finger- and toe- nails.
Antifungal Nail Bath Recipe
Excellent for treating fungus nail condition,

and is also good for adding to any of your Nail
products.
40ml Water
10ml Myrrh Tincture
20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Myrrh Essential Oil
5 drops Lavender Essential Oil
This Nail Bath will last for 1 year without
Preservatives.
Method
1.
Measure and mix together.
2.
When ready to use, put some of the
solution in a bowl and dip your nails in it
for 10 minutes.
Parts used: Whole plant, including the

roots, but mainly aerial parts such as leaves
are commercially available.
and properties: Stinging Nettle (Urtica
dioica and the closely related Urtica urens)
has a long history of use. The tough fibres
from the plant stem have been used to make
cloth, and have been traditionally used as a
cleansing spring tonic and a nourishing
vegetable if gathered when the leaves are
young. The plant takes minerals from the soil,
making them a good remedy for anaemia; and,
with the high Vitamin C content, the iron in
the herb is easier to absorb.
From ancient Greece to the present, Nettle
has been documented for its use in treating
coughs, tuberculosis, and arthritis,
rheumatism, eczema, gout, and anaemia and
for stimulating hair growth. Dioscorides, the
1st century Greek physician, listed a range of
uses for Nettle, including the fresh, chopped
leaves as a Plaster for septic wounds, the juice
for nosebleeds, and the cooked leaves mixed
with Myrrh to stimulate menstruation.
Preparation and usage of Myrrh: (See

Recipes for Mouth Wash and Nail Care). In
addition:
Use Myrrh Tincture, Infusion, or diluted
Essential Oil or a combination of them all as a
Mouth Wash, Rinse or Gargle.
Add up to 15% of the Tincture to Creams,
Lotions and Ointments. You can also add 0.5%
(about 12 drops per 100ml) of Myrrh Essential
Oil to your products that already contain the
Tincture or Infusion.
Use undiluted Myrrh Tincture for an excellent
antiseptic Wound Wash.
Urtica dioica
- 59 -
Main constituents: High chlorophyll

content, xanthophyll (yellow pigment),
carotene, tannins, carbohydrates, amines
(histamine, choline, acetylcholine, serotonin),
formic acid, glucoquinones, minerals (including
silicic acid, calcium, potassium, iron,
chromium, magnesium, and zinc), Vitamins A,
B, C, K, protein, mucilage, sterols and phenols
(root), flavonoids (including rutin), volatile oil,
nitrates (1-3%), 5-HTP.
The Aztecs made medicinal use of the several

species native to Mexico. The Aztec Herbal of
1552, recommended sniffing a mixture of
crushed Nettles in milk to stop a nosebleed. It
also prescribed a combination of Nettles
crushed in water and boiled as a Poultice for
arthritis.
In medieval Europe, diuretics and remedies for
joint problems were made from Stinging
Nettle. Healers in several traditions used the
branches of Stinging Nettle to strike the arms
or legs of paralysed patients in order to
activate their muscles. This whipping
technique, also known a whisking, is used in
some healing traditions to stimulate the
organs and relieve the pain of sore muscles.
Medieval monks would flagellate themselves
with Nettle for penance. This was also done
by Roman soldiers, but to warm themselves.
They are said to have introduced the plant to
Britain to help them better adapt to the cold,
damp, climate. For stimulating hair growth, the
European herbalists recommended combing
the hair daily with expressed Nettle juice.
Uses of Nettle: Astringent; anti-allergenic;

circulatory stimulant; diuretic; lowers blood
sugar levels; nutritive; promotes milk flow
(leaf); prevents scurvy; reduces prostate
enlargement (root); stops bleeding; tonic.
Infusions are taken to stimulate the circulation
and to cleanse the system for arthritis,
rheumatism, gout, and eczema, as well as to
increase milk flow in nursing mothers.
Fresh shoots make a revitalising spring tonic
and are often used just as a vegetable.
Tinctures are used in combination with other
herbs for arthritic disorders, skin problems,
and heavy uterine bleeding.
The plant has long been valued for its sturdy

stem, similar to flax and hemp, which can be
used to make fabrics ranging from fine linen to
burlap and rope. In the remote Asian
mountain kingdom of Bhutan, yarn is made
from Himalayan Nettles. It has been said that,
up to the 19th century, half of the farmers of
Bhutan dressed in Nettle cloth.
Compresses soaked in diluted Nettle Tincture

are applied to painful joints, sprains, neuralgia,
tendonitis, or sciatic areas.
Ointments, Creams and Gels are used to treat
haemorrhoids and eczema.
Washes are applied to burns, insect bites, and
wounds.
Native Americans used it to treat bronchitis

and other respiratory problems and for
digestive problems, urinary tract disorders,
diarrhoea, and gout.
The stinging hairs on Nettle are sharp,

polished spines that contain histamine and
formic acid, irritating chemicals that are
released when the plant comes in contact with
the skin. While the hairs, or spines, of the
Stinging Nettle are normally very painful to
the touch, when they come into contact with
an area of the body that is already in pain, the
chemicals can actually decrease the original
pain. This is why Stinging Nettle is called a
counterirritant. Applying juice from the
Stinging Nettle to the skin can actually relieve
painful Nettle stings or insect bites.
Today, many people use it to treat urinary
The common Nettle is one of some 500

species that can be found growing in
temperate regions throughout the northern
hemisphere, southern Africa, the Andes, and
Australia. Young shoots are picked in spring
for use as a tonic and vegetable. The aerial
parts are harvested while flowering, and the
roots are unearthed in the autumn.
60
problems during the early stages of an

enlarged prostate (called Benign Prostatic
Hyperplasia, or BPH), for urinary tract
infections, for kidney stones, for hay fever
(allergic rhinitis), or in Compresses or Creams
for treating joint pain, sprains and strains,
tendonitis, and insect bites. In fact, some small
but well-designed studies are beginning to
confirm that certain traditional uses
(particularly to treat BPH and osteoarthritis)
have scientific validity, especially when used in
conjunction with other anti-inflammatory
medications. Plus, recent laboratory studies
are offering plausible explanations for the
reason that Stinging Nettles might help
rheumatoid arthritis, as well as several of the
conditions already mentioned.
In previous animal studies, Nettle has been
shown to relieve pain, have mild antiinflammatory effects, and to lower blood sugar
levels. Active compounds in Stinging Nettle
may act as expectorants (meaning that it can
loosen and break up a cough) and have
antiviral properties.
stimulates the blood circulation, reducing the

secretion of fat and generally drying out the
scalp. Its daily use will incidentally colour the
hair a dark, red colour. However, washing the
hair with the Infusion works better for this
purpose.
Kolbjorns Tips for Hair Care products:
When adding Nettle to Shampoos, Hair Rinses
and Hair Packs, its advisable to add herbs with
a high saponin content, such as Birch leaves or
Horsetail. The saponins open up the pores so
that the minerals in the Nettle can penetrate
the scalp easier.
Nettle Hair Rinse

(Recipe makes approximately 100ml Rinse.)
120ml Vodka
3-4g dried, or 20g fresh, Nettle Leaves
1g dried Birch leaves or 10g fresh Birch leaves
3ml D-Panthenol
1ml/g Sorbitol
10-15 drops Essential Oil (add last)
Method for making Nettle Hair Rinse
1.
Allow the Nettle to soak in the alcohol
for 2 weeks.
2.
Shake the bottle every other day during
the 2 weeks.
3.
Strain off the leaves.
4.
Add the other raw materials and bottle.
5.
Use 2-3 times a week.
Nettle may also be effective for treating

certain individuals with allergic rhinitis
(hayfever). This traditional use has had a lot of
historical value for individuals. Early studies of
people suggest that this historic use is very
likely scientifically valid.
Skin Care: Used in Compresses, in Lotions
and Creams for oily skin, it is cleansing,
clarifying and emollient and soothes sensitive
skins with surface blood capillaries. The
Tincture can have a positive effect on dry,
sensitive skins with eczema or allergic rashes.
This is because of the antihistamines and
sulphur found in the Tincture.
Hair Care: Used extensively in Hair Care
products where it is supposed to counteract
hair loss, prevent and cure dandruff, reduce
oily secretions and improve the quality of dry,
lifeless hair and stimulate the scalp. Best
results for hair care are achieved through
Rinses and Hair Packs (better than Shampoos).
The Tincture has been used often as an
alcohol-based Hair Rinse. It works well for
treating dandruff and an oily scalp as it
Preparation and usage of Nettle: When

using Nettle in a water solution, it works best
when used as a Decoction. To make a
Decoction, boil 5-15g of dried Nettle in 1 litre
of water, or 50-150g of the fresh leaves in 2-3
litres of water for 10 minutes and then leave
for 30 minutes. The Decoction will be very
green and will colour Shampoos and Creams.
, Nettle has a strong odour and colour, so
do not use too much and use Essential Oils

to mask the smell if necessary and colour
the product with your choice of Colour or
Pigment.
Use the Decoction or diluted Tincture in

Compresses (15-20g per 1 litre of water),
Lotions, Creams and Shampoos.
- 61 -
Orris Root
Iris - florentina, Germanica, or pallida

Synonyms: Iris Root.
commercially in Tooth Powders, Toothpastes

and snuff because of its pleasant smell. It
tempers bad breath. The dried root is good
for babies to chew on while teething. The
carbohydrates, Essential Oils and tannins work
together to produce an astringent, protective
and healing effect..
Parts used: Decorticated rhizome.

and properties: From ancient times the
stately Iris has stood as a symbol of power and
majesty. It was dedicated to Juno in Roman
times and the Egyptians placed it on the brow
of the Sphinx and on the sceptre of their
kings, the three leaves of its blossoms typifying
faith, wisdom and valour. The Iris flower
(fleur de lis) has represented the French
monarchy since medieval times.
Iris continues to be used in the preparation of

essences for Soaps, Perfumes and Skin Care
products (e.g. in Weleda's Iris collection). Is
also used as a fixative in Perfumes and pot
pourris.
Main constituents: Essential oil containing
10% iron (violet-smelling constituent),
glycoside (iridin), tannins, more than 50%
starches and carbohydrates.
The root has also been extensively used

historically as a healing agent for coughs,
dropsy, internal parasites and snake bites. It
has played a major role in the history of many
countries, in magic, religion and medicine.
The smell and taste are aromatic. The fresh
root contains a sharp, acrid substance which
induces vomiting and colic with diarrhoea.
This substance is converted when the root is
dried. In the past it has been used
Skin and Body Care: Considered to have a

positive effect on the moisture content and
elasticity of the skin. Mildly refreshing and
astringent, it regulates moisture exchange in
the skin which helps the skin to rid itself of
dead particles and other toxins. Genuine
Essential Oil of Orris Root is very expensive.
A strong Decoction of the root can be used.
Boil with the lid on for 15-20 minutes. For
Skin Care products use 20g of the root per 1
litre of water.
Add the powdered Orris Root to Peeling
Creams and as Peeling Grains to soap.
Oral Care: Use Orris Root Powder as it is
for a Tooth Powder. Simply dip toothbrush
into the Powder and brush teeth. Add 10% of
the finely ground root to Toothpaste recipes.
Other fragrant ideas: To make your own
Iris perfume, you can add 30g of Orris Root
powder or 60g of fresh, chopped roots to
100ml of Vodka. Leave for 2 weeks, shaking
daily, and then strain. Bottle in a perfume
bottle its as simple as that!
Orris Root powder is also a lovely choice for
fragrant wardrobe sachets or incense, or to
use the freshly chopped root in pot pourris.
Iris - florentina, Germanica, or pallida

62
Peppermint
Mentha piperita
Synonyms: Brandy Mint.
Peppermint is used externally as an

antibacterial, astringent and anti-inflammatory
for healing wounds. The Essential Oil is used
for itchiness (itchy eczema, insect bites).
Analgesic (pain-relieving) for headaches and
migraines. Its menthol content has a
stimulating effect on the skin's cold receptors
giving it a cooling (pain relieving/analgesic)
effect on the skin.
Parts used: Leaves.

and properties: Peppermint is a hybrid of
Watermint and Spearmint and was first
cultivated near London in 1750. Recognized in
the early 18th century, the historical use of
Peppermint herb is not dramatically different
than its use in modern herbal medicine.
Classified as a carminative (prevents and
relieves intestinal wind) herb, Peppermint has
been used as a general digestive aid and
employed in the treatment of indigestion and
intestinal colic by herbalists.
Peppermint is now cultivated widely,
particularly in the U.S. and Europe. The two
main cultivated forms are the Black Mint,
which has violet-coloured leaves and stems
and a relatively high Oil content, and the
White Mint, which has pure green leaves and a
milder taste. The leaves are used medicinally.
Menthol and Peppermint Oil should be used

with care when taken internally especially with
children (in whom it can cause respiratory
distress). There are many different kinds of
Mint all with similar actions, apart from
Spearmint, which contains only small
quantities of Menthol, and Japanese Mint,
which contains a high level of Menthol. The
Essential Oil is widely used in foodstuffs,
natural products, sweets and chewing gum. It
is used to flavour Toothpaste and in Mouth
Washes for its pleasant taste and smell and for
its antibacterial properties.
It is valuable in the treatment of Irritable
Bowel Syndrome (combination with Caraway
Oil); strokes; periodontal disease; shingles;
chronic candidiasis; colic; common cold;
gallstones; injuries, infections; inflammations;
back pain; painful attacks of gout and
rheumatism; and as a Gargle for painful gums
and teeth.
Main constituents: 1-3% Essential Oil (5080% menthol), 3-12% tannins, bitter principles,
flavonoid glycosides and carotene.
Approximately 0.11.0% volatile oil which is
composed primarily of menthol (2948%) and
menthone (2031%).
Mentha piperita
Skin Care: Peppermint cools, refreshes,

stimulates and revitalises. It is considered to
restore elasticity to the skin, to tone tissue,
close pores, reduce swellings, counteract bad
smells, reduce redness and irritation and
clarify the skin. Peppermint Water (a
Hydrolate) is often used in combination with
the Essential Oil and an Infusion of the dried
herb. The Hydrolate diluted in water used as a
Skin Toner is especially effective for oily and
large pored complexions. It is also commonly
- 63 -
Plantain
Plantago major L.
Synonyms: Ribwort. (This is NOT the
banana-like vegetable of the same name.)
used for its cooling and soothing qualities in

Ointments and Creams for the feet. An
Infusion used in Whole Body Baths is
excellent for treating itchy skin.
Parts used: Leaves.

and properties: Plantain leaf has a long
history of traditional use as a medicine, dating
back to ancient Roman and Greek times. The
leaves, seeds, and roots are highly
mucilaginous and Plantain has a rich history of
traditional use, particularly in the treatment of:
sores; wounds; cuts; and skin ailments and
inflammations of all types including eczema
and dermatitis; insect bites; diseases related to
the respiratory organs, digestive organs,
reproduction, and circulation; cancer; earache;
for pain relief; and infections.
Summer Skin Care products: Add a

strong Peppermint Infusion along with
Peppermint Essential Oil and Aloe Vera to
your Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and
Gels and in Creams for treating itchy skin.
Eye Care: Use a Peppermint Infusion, once
cooled, as a soothing, cooling Eye Compress.
Around the house: A strong Peppermint
Infusion or the Hydrolate both make a cooling
and uplifting Air Freshener Spray.
Kolbjorns Peppermint Bath Tip
Due to its menthol content, Peppermint has a
cooling effect in a Bath. It is wise to use it with
caution in a Bath as the menthol can make you
feel cold. So it is therefore only recommended
for itchy skin.
In addition, it was considered by herbalists to

be a gentle, soothing expectorant and was
most used traditionally internally to suppress
coughs and soothe mucous membrane
inflammation associated with bronchitis, colds
and upper respiratory congestion. These
green, weedy plants are native to Europe and
Asia, but now grow practically anywhere in
the world where there is sufficient water.
Preparation and usage of Peppermint:

For most products, use either the Essential
Oil, the Hydrolate or a strong Herbal Infusion,
or a combination of them.
To make an Infusion for Foam Baths and
Compresses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre
of water or 150-250g of the fresh herb per
2-3 litres of water.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50g of the dried,
or 200-250g of the fresh, herb for the whole
bath.
To make a Skin Toner, dilute a maximum of
20% Hydrolate with water.
Add up to 5-6% Tincture and 0.5% Essential
Oil to Foot Ointments and Creams.
For Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and
Aloe Vera Gels and in Creams for itchy skin,
use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water or
150-200g of the fresh herb per 2 litres of
water (allow to infuse for 20 minutes)
together with Peppermint Essential Oil.
Plantago major L.
64
Plantain should not be confused with the

banana-like vegetable of the same name. The
leaves of Plantain are primarily used as
medicine. The seeds of Plantain can also be
used medicinally, having mild laxative effects
similar to the seeds of psyllium, a close
relative of Plantain.
x
Main constituents: 2-6.5% mucilage; 6.5%

tannins; iridoid glycosides; phenylethanoids;
over 1% silicic acid; phenolic carboxylic acids;
flavonoids; vitamins A, C, and K and several
minerals, including calcium, magnesium,
sodium, potassium, phosphorous, zinc, copper
and cobalt.
x
Today, Plantain is used in much the same way

as it has been traditionally has with more uses:
Internal use: Used as a special childrens
remedy for coughs and diarrhoea; for postpartum bleeding or haemorrhaging; it is also
mentioned in many European pharmacopoeias
as an emollient and for curing inflamed gums.
Its mild astringent effect is said to help remedy
haemorrhoids or bladder infections with mild
amounts of blood in the urine; coughs;
asthma; bronchitis; ulcers; diarrhoea;
haemorrhoids; cystitis; liver tonic; ulcers,
including malignant ulcers; and hayfever.
External use - Skin Care: Plantain is an
effective topical treatment for a number of
conditions, namely: wounds of all kinds
particularly effective at removing the itch from
bites and the sting from cuts and grazes
(Poultices, Gels, Creams); most skin disorders
including psoriasis, cracked skin, eczema, and
pimples (Creams, Gels, Baths); haemorrhoids
(Ointments, Creams, Gels); nappy rash
(Ointments, Creams, Baths, Gels); minor
burns including mild sunburn (Compress, Oils,
Creams, Gels); insect bites (Creams, Poultices,
Gels); Conjunctivitis (Eye Washes); gum
disease and inflammation, and mouth ulcers
(Mouth Washes).
Kolbjorns Tips for Plantain Poultices:
x
If you pick your own Plantain leaves, be
sure they haven't been sprayed with
chemicals and remember to thoroughly
x
rinse the earth or dirt from the leaves

before using them in Poultices. This is
very important.
When using fresh leaves as a Drawing
Poultice on a wound, use the underside
of the leaves (the side that grows
towards the ground and on which the
veins are visible) in the first stage of the
treatment. Once the infection has been
drawn out, apply the top side of the
Plantain leaf to the wound. This side of
the leaf stimulates the wound to heal.
Another way to use the leaves as a
Poultice, is to put the leaves in a blender
and apply the green porridge to the
affected area, cover with a cotton cloth,
then clingfilm, and lastly wrap with a
stretch bandage.
Some prefer to mash, chop or blend the
leaves; others prick the leaves with a
needle before using them as a Poultice.
You can also use the dried leaves for
Compresses during winter. Simply
moisten them before use on the skin.
Preparation and usage of Plantain: For

Creams, make an Infusion by using 15-20g per
litre of water and use instead of water in the
Cream Recipe.
For Drawing Poultices: finely chop or blend a
Plantain leaf then mix with a pinch of cayenne
powder. Apply directly to the affected area
and bandage lightly. Change every 4 hours.
Whole leaves can also be used for Drawing
Poultices see Kolbjorns second Tip above.
For Oils and Ointments, use up to 10% of the
Tincture.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried
herb or 500-1000g fresh leaves for the whole
bath. NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs
in the bath for the best results.
For Eye Washes, use an Infusion (10-15g dried
leaves per 1 litre of water).
For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the
Tincture diluted in water or other ingredients
of your choice; or use a strong Infusion along
with other ingredients of your choice.
- 65 -
Rose
Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica,

Rosa damascena
having special properties, namely sweet, cool,
pungent and yet slight bitter. In that tradition
it is prescribed as a cooling tonic for a variety
of conditions i.e. as a heart tonic, to combat
fatigue, lethargy, muscular aches, biliousness,
itching, and heat, as well as improving
digestion and metabolism and helping to heal
pimples and old blemishes.
Synonyms: There are many synonyms for

the different types of Roses too many to list
here.
Parts used: Flowers and buds. There are
several different varieties of Rose and all of
them can be used, although different varieties
will have different properties. Red rose petals
of Rosa gallica, for example, are mildly
astringent. Pale Rose petals are obtained from
the cabbage rose, Rosa centifolia, and contain
a small quantity of volatile oil and a trace of a
bitter principle, to which slightly purgative
properties have been attributed.
Western herbal medicine doesnt use the

Rose petals in the same way as Ayurveda
does, but it has been used for many medicinal
purposes in the past, namely as a heart,
stomach, and liver tonic and a remedy to
prevent vomiting, stop tickling coughs and to
heal consumption. Rose Baths have also been
used to ease rheumatic and joint ailments.

and properties: Sappho, the Greek poetess,
writing about 600 BCE, selected the Rose as
the Queen of Flowers and perhaps no flower
is more recognizable and no aroma more
evocative than that of the Rose. Its rich
fragrance has perfumed human history for
generations, from ancient Persian gardens,
where the Rose was probably first cultivated,
to extravagant Roman banquets whose
revellers feasted amongst soft piles of Rose
petals. Fresh Roses were also macerated in
hot fat to produce fragrant pomades in ancient
India, Greece and Egypt.
Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02-0.03%

with other constituents, tannins, glycosides
and pigments. It contains more than 300
known compounds, yet the main chemical
components of Rose Oil can be listed as:
citronellol, phenyl ethanol, geraniol, nerol,
farnesol and stearpoten with traces of
nonanol, linalol, nonanal, phenyl acetaldehyde,
citral, carvone, citronellyl acetate, 2phenylmenthyl acetate, methyl eugenol,
eugenol and rose oxide.
The healing tradition associated with the Rose

is no less remarkable than its fragrance and
beauty. The 17th-century English physician
Culpeper wrote that red Roses strengthen the
heart. He may have been referring to a
physical action, but anyone who has inhaled
fresh roses or their Essential Oil knows that
the aroma strengthens the heart emotionally,
and on a deeper level, as well.
Culpeper attributed other properties to the
Rose that foreshadowed its current use in
aromatherapy and cosmetics. He
recommended extract of Rose for its cooling
and astringent benefits, useful for headache
and tired eyes. He also suggested an Ointment
of Roses to cool and heal pushes, wheals and
other red pimples rising on the face.
Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica,
Rosa damascena
Today, Ayurvedic medicine recognises Rose as

66
Skin Care: Rose Oil, Rose Water and an

Infusion made from Rose Petals are used in
Skin Care products for tender, dry, sensitive
skin and have a cleansing, astringent, toning,
moisture retaining, stimulating, antibacterial,
healing and soothing effect. When Rose is
included in a Cream or Lotion, it stimulates
and protects the skin, while moisturising and
hydrating it.
It gives a boost to all skin types, and is
particularly beneficial to dry, mature and
sensitive skin. Of course, Rose has the added
benefit of its wonderful fragrance, which
makes it popular in Skin Care products. It
helps to reduce skin redness, fight
inflammations, as well as to fix broken
capillaries on the skin. It also acts as a general
skin tonic with its astringent properties.
Rose has remarkable harmonising and
balancing Skin Care qualities and Rose petals
have long been used for softening and
rejuvenating skin. A Wash made from strong
Infusion of Rose petals is excellent for treating
acne, blackheads, small sores, bumps, oedema
and boils. Rose Water (Hydrolate), recovered
from the distillation of Rose Essential Oil, is
mildly astringent and beneficial for cleansing
and refreshing dry, sensitive skin.
Hair Care: Use Rose petal Infusion or the
Hydrolate as a substitute for water in your
Shampoo or Hair Rinse Recipes.
Preparation and usage of Rose: If making

an Infusion from the Rose petals, use the
amount recommended for each product and
allow to stand for approximately 20-30
minutes before using. Rose Water (Hydrolate)
and Rose Essential Oil (Rose de mai or Rose
Otto) can also be used either in combination
with the Rose Infusion, or on their own.
For Foam Baths and Shampoos, use a strong
Infusion plus Essential Oil. To make the
Infusion, use 15-25g dried Roses per 1 litre of
water, or 150-250g fresh Rose petals per 2-3
litres of water.
For Whole Baths use 50-60g dried, or 500600g fresh, Rose petals, for the whole bath.
For Face Washes, Eye Washes and Skin Care
products such as Creams, Lotions, etc use 1520g dried Roses per 1 litre of water, or 150200g fresh Rose petals per 2-3 litres of water.
When making an Infusion of Rose petals, add
Lactic or Ascorbic acid to deepen the red
colour of the Infusion. Adding alkaline raw
materials make it blue to green.
For a Room Spray or Skin Toners, just add
Rose Hydrolate to a bottle with a spray cap.
You can also mix it with smaller amounts of
other Hydrolates according to your
preference.
Eye Care: Use the Infusion in an Eye

Compress to reduce swollen skin around the
eyes.
- 67 -
Rosemary
Rosmarinus officinalis
Synonyms:: Rosmarinus prostratus,
Rosmarin, Old Man.
weak heart, reducing palpitations; a good

remedy for dropsy and for headaches caused
by feeble circulation. It has also been used
historically for culinary purposes and in Oil for
muscle liniments.
Parts used: Leaves.

and properties: Traditionally, Rosemary has
been used by herbalists to improve memory,
relieve muscle pain and spasm, stimulate hair
growth, and to support the circulatory and
nervous systems. It is also believed to affect
the menstrual cycle, act as an abortifacient
(inducing miscarriage), relieve menstrual
cramps, increase urine flow, and reduce
kidney pain (for example, from kidney stones).
Its use as a massage remedy to treat

rheumatism and sciatica goes back 700 years
ago. In Hungary, in 1235, Queen Izabella was
stricken with a paralysing illness. A hermit
came to court with a preparation of Rosemary
steeped in distilled wine [Rosemary Tincture],
which cured her. The rumour spread
throughout Europe of the benefits of this
water and it became popular with its use
expanding for the treatment of gout and
baldness too.
Rosemary has long had a reputation for

strengthening the memory. On this account it
became the emblem of fidelity for lovers. Not
only was it used at weddings, but also at
funerals, for decking churches and banqueting
halls at festivals, as incense in religious
ceremonies, and in magical spells. Rosemary
was one of the cordial herbs used to flavour
ale and wine and was said to be quieting to a
Main constituents: 1-2% Essential Oil,

approximately 8% tannins, saponins, bitter
principles and flavonoid glycosides, borneol,
iso-bornyl acetate, carnosol, cineole, pinene
and camphor, linalol, rosmanol, terpeniol and
verbinol, rosmarinic acid, flavonoids, and
limonene.
Internal use: Rosemary is still used as a
culinary herb; for increasing circulation; as a
muscle relaxant; for reducing headaches; to
treat colic; to treat colds; to treat nervous
conditions; to improve food absorption by
stimulating and soothing the digestion, the
liver, the intestinal tract, and the gallbladder
and to treat stomach cramps and flatulence; as
a menstrual tonic; as a tonic, invigorating herb;
for its antibacterial and antifungal properties;
as an antioxidant (for medicinal use and as a
preservative in food and cosmetics); for its
antispasmodic effects; in the preparation of
Eau-de-Cologne; and as an ingredient in
Benedictine.
Rosemary and Coltsfoot leaves are considered
effective when rubbed together and smoked
for asthma and other throat and lung
problems. Recently, Rosemary has been the
object of laboratory studies investigating its
potential in the prevention of cancer and its
antibacterial properties.
Rosmarinus officinalis
68
External use: Used externally primarily for

its stimulatory effect in increasing blood
circulation in the skin which can affect the
body in many ways. Used in aromatherapy
(Essential Oil only) as a stimulus for nervous
disorders (poor memory, heart and
circulatory problems), for gout and muscular
aches. It is warming, slightly analgesic and is
also used for headaches, tiredness,
disturbances of the circulatory system and to
increase virility. Use of undiluted Essential Oil
of Rosemary on the skin for prolonged
periods can produce extensive rashes and
blisters. Rosemary is used as a fragrant
additive in Soaps, Shampoos, Creams and
other cosmetics.
Skin Care: Considered to stimulate blood
circulation and to restore elasticity to the
skin, Rosemary is also effective for lifeless and
oily skin, for blackheads and spots
(antibacterial). An Infusion can also be used as
an invigorating Skin Toner and astringent.
Rosemary added to a Bath strengthens and
refreshes, especially when used following an
illness. Make a very strong Infusion and
combine with 10ml Arnica Tincture and add
to Whole Body Baths to treat oedema and
swollenness due to sprains and bruises. A
strong Infusion (without the Arnica) is
excellent for easing joint pain.
Use an Infusion for bathing wounds; it is
especially effective for infected and hard-toheal wounds. Apply also to insect bites, burns
and eczema.
Hair Care: It is used in Hair Care products
to counteract dandruff, hair loss, and for oily
hair. Use an Infusion as a Hair Rinse to lighten
blond hair, and to condition and tone all hair.
It has long been used in Shampoos and
traditional Hair Lotions to promote hair
growth and to prevent premature baldness by
increasing the circulation in the scalp, thus
improving nourishment to the hair follicles.
Oral Care: Rosemary is also used in
Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles as
an antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent and
healing agent. The Mouth Wash or Gargle can

help to treat sore throats, gum problems, and
canker sores. Make a refreshing, antibacterial
Mouth Wash by adding 5-10% Myrrh Tincture
to a strong Infusion of Rosemary.
Around the home: Make a refreshing and
stimulating Air Freshener Spray by using either
Rosemary Hydrolate on its own or combining
it with a strong Rosemary Infusion.
Preparation and Usage of Rosemary: It
is added to and used in Baths, Steam Baths,
Compresses, Ointments, Liniments, Creams,
Mouth Washes, Shampoos, Conditioners, Hair
Packs, etc. It is primarily the Essential Oil
which is used but in Skin, Body and Hair Care
products it can be beneficial to use both a
strong Infusion of Rosemary (contains
saponins and tannins) and Rosemary Essential
Oil.
For Foam Baths, use Rosemary Infusion in
your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 2025g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or
200-250g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of
water, plus Rosemary Essential Oil.
For Whole Body Baths, use 25g of the dried,
or 100g fresh, leaves for the whole bath.
For Compresses or Wound Washes use 1015g dried Rosemary leaves per 1 litre of water
or 50-100g of fresh Rosemary leaves per 2-3
litres of water plus Rosemary Essential Oil
(just a few drops).
For Skin Care products such as Creams and
Lotions and for Shampoos, add an Infusion and
Rosemary Essential Oil (just a few drops) to
your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 1015g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or
50-100g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of
water.
For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use either a
strong Infusion (use 15-20g dried Rosemary
per 1 litre of water or 80-100g of fresh
Rosemary per 2-3 litres of water) or up to
10% of the Tincture diluted in water or other
ingredients of your choice.
- 69 -
Sage
Salvia officinalis
Synonyms: Garden Sage, Red Sage, Broadleaved White Sage, Narrow-leaved White
Sage.
Kolbjorns Rosemary Tincture-making

Tip:
To make your own Rosemary Tincture:
Parts used: Leaves, which can be picked

both before and after flowering.
Step 1
In a glass jar, add 10-15g of dried, or 50-60g of
fresh, Rosemary leaves to 100ml Vodka.

and properties: The botanical generic name
for all the Sage family is derived from the Latin
salvere, to save, cure or thrive, a lasting
testament to its ancient reputation as a
medical cure-all. Sage has one of the longest
histories of use of any culinary or medicinal
herb. So strong was the faith in Sage that, by
around the 10th century CE, it had acquired
the reputation of being able to confer
immortality.
Step 2
Leave in the glass jar and shake the mixture
vigorously once a day, every day for 2 weeks.
Step 3
Then strain. It is ready to use and will keep for
2-3 years.
Sage was the herb originally used in Europe

for making tea long before the introduction of
Indian tea and the Chinese traded their own
green tea with the Dutch in return for
supplies of the herb. The Chinese healers
considered it to be strengthening to the
digestive system and calming to the nerves.
It was used by herbalists externally to treat
sprains, damaged tissue, swelling, ulcers,
Salvia officinalis
70
chilblains, bruises, ringworm, fungicidal attacks

and bleeding. Internally, a tea made from Sage
leaves has had a long history of use to treat
sore throats and coughs - often used as a
Gargle. It was also used by herbalists for
rheumatism, excessive menstrual bleeding, and
to dry up a mothers milk when nursing was
stopped. It was particularly noted for
strengthening the nervous system, improving
memory, and sharpening the senses. Sage was
officially listed in the United States
Pharmacopoeia from 1840 to 1900.
An unpublished, preliminary German study

with people suffering from excessive
perspiration found that either a dry leaf
extract or an Infusion of the leaf reduced
sweating by as much as 50%. This cooling
property also makes it an ideal remedy for
fevers and flushes, especially those
experienced during the menopause.
Sage has had its cosmetic uses too; the ancient

Romans used a strong Infusion of the herb to
darken their hair. It has also been used for
moth proofing. Sage is very attractive to bees
and Sage honey is highly regarded by
aficionados. Native to the Mediterranean
region, Sage is now grown in all of Europe and
North America.
, Because of its thujone content, it is advised

not to use too much during pregnancy and
in not too large an amount on a regular
basis for all. Even when consumed in small
amounts for long periods of time, thujone
may cause increased heart rate and mental
confusion. Very high amounts may lead to
convulsions or epileptic fits. Sage should be
avoided when fever is present. Extracts of
Sage made with alcohol are likely to be
higher in thujone than those made with
water. These concerns do not extend to
the use of Sage as a Gargle or Mouth
Wash.
Main constituents: 0.5-2.5% Essential Oil

(30-50% thujone), tannins, saponins, flavonoid
glycosides, monoterpenes, carnosol, rosmanol,
rosmarinic acid.
Internal use: Infusion or Tincture of Sage
has antiseptic and antibacterial properties and
has traditionally been used as a Mouth Wash
to cure mouth ulcers and gum infections and
as a Gargle for sore throats. Some herbalists
use Sage to aid digestion of heavy, rich foods
and can help to combat a tendency to
sweating. Sage is also approved in Germany
for mild gastrointestinal upset and excessive
sweating.
External use: Sage is an astringent and has

an antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral effect.
Also for washing, bathing and wrapping
varicose ulcers and other sores, which do not
heal easily.
Skin and Body Care: Use Sage for:
treating oily, spotty skin and for wrinkled,
sagging complexions (Skin Toners, Lotions,
Creams, Gels); cleansing, stimulating blood
circulation, closing pores and restoring
elasticity (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions,
Creams, Gels); treating eczema, spots and
rashes (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions,
Creams, Gels); antibacterial properties in
Deodorants, as well as Baths for treating
sweaty feet. It is astringent and the thujone is
antibacterial and antiperspirant (it takes about
1 hour for it to become effective). Sage Oil
inhibits the action of glands like the sweat and
saliva glands.
Hair Care: Sage helps to prevent hair loss
by strengthening and disinfecting the scalp.
(Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners).
When used as a Hair Rinse it may darken the
colour of the hair (not everybodys hair
responds to this).
Oral Care: The Infusion or diluted Tincture
is used as an excellent antiseptic Mouth Wash
and Gargle for inflammations of the oral cavity
and throat.
Preparation and usage of Sage: For Foam
Baths, Compresses, Face Washes and Sore
Washes use approximately 10-12g dried
leaves per 1 litre of water or 30-40g of fresh
leaves per 2-3 litres of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 20-25g dried, or
70-100g fresh, Sage for the whole bath.
- 71 -
St. John's Wort

Hypericum perforatum
For Lotions, Skin Toners, Creams, Gels and
Shampoos, use an Infusion in your Recipe. To
make the Infusion, use 8-10g dried leaves per
1 litre of water or 30-35g of fresh leaves per
2-3 litres of water.
Synonyms: Amber touch-and-heal, Balm of

warriors wound, Devils scourge, Lord Gods
Wonder plant, Hierba de San Juan, Witchers
herb, Hypericum millepertuis, etc.
Parts used: Aerial parts or if for a
Macerated Oil, then only the flowers, or justopened buds of the flowers.
For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use a strong

Infusion (15-20g of dried Sage per 1 litre of
water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres
of water) or up to 10% of the Tincture diluted
in water and/or other ingredients of your
choice.

and properties: This plant is named for St.
John, the Baptist, and the word wort comes
from an Old English word meaning root.
Sometimes called the 'sunshine herb', it has a
2400-year history of safe and effective usage in
folk, herbal, and ancient medicine. Hippocrates
himself prescribed Hypericum as medicine. In
ancient Greece, St. Johns Wort was used to
treat many ailments, including sciatica, fever
(refer to Elderflower in this Guide) and
poisonous reptile bites. In Europe, St. Johns
Wort was used by herbalists for the topical
treatment of wounds and burns.
For Deodorants use a strong Infusion and/or

Essential Oil of Sage and other Essential Oils
such as Lemon and Lavender. To make the
strong Infusion, use 15-20g dried leaves per 1
litre of water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3
litres of water.
For Hair Care products use both the Infusion
and Essential Oil. There are several varieties
of Sage.
Kolbjorns Tip for buying dried Sage
When buying the herb always buy the kind
which contains thujone, recognisable by the
smell of Sage associated with the culinary
herb.
Recipe for Sage Mouth Wash

10ml Sage Tincture
5ml Myrrh Tincture
5ml Marigold Tincture
1ml Peppermint Essential Oil
1ml Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Sage Essential Oil
Method
1.
2.
3.
Measure and mix together.

Place a teaspoon of this blend in a glass
of lukewarm water.
Gargle well.
Hypericum perforatum
72
It is also a folk remedy for kidney and lung

ailments as well as for depression. Ancient
Europeans believed it had magical protective
powers against disease and evil. It is native to
many parts of the world, including Europe and
the United States of America.
In more recent times, St. John's Wort
achieved instant fame in the USA and in
Europe when clinical studies confirmed its
effectiveness in the treatment of mild-tomoderate depression. The news came as no
surprise to herbalists, who have long used St.
John's Wort not only for depression, but also
for the treatment of wounds, burns, injured
nerves, inflammations, ulcers, anxiety, and
other ailments.
In Germany, more than fifty percent of
depression, anxiety, and sleep disorders are
treated with St. Johns Wort. According to
Norman Rosenthal, the author of St. John's
Wort: The Herbal Way to Feeling Good, St.
Johns Wort enjoys more than ten times the
sales than Prozac.
The herb has also been shown to help people
with seasonal affective disorder (SAD), a
common form of depression believed to be
caused by lack of light during autumn and
winter. Recent research suggests that St.
John's Wort has potential in the treatment of
premenstrual syndrome (PMS), obsessive
compulsive disorder, menopause symptoms,
and viral infections.
Main constituents: St John's Wort contains
about 50 active constituents, but research
indicates that the pigment, hypericin, which is
found in the flowers, is the ingredient that can
help depression. The other major constituents
in St. Johns Wort include Essential Oil
(Oleum hyperici), dianthrones, flavonoids,
xanthones, tannins (mainly found in the
leaves), glycosides, saponins and hyperforin.
Numerous studies show that hypericin
appears to act similar to drugs that are
Monoamine Oxidase (MAO) inhibitors and
selective serotonin-reuptake inhibitors,
elevating mood and acting as a mild sedative.
Skin Care: St. Johns Wort soothes

irritations of the skin, with generally beneficial
effects as the herb has calming properties. St.
John's Wort is mostly used externally in the
form of a Macerated Oil, an Infusion or a
Tincture, but these preparations are
increasingly been added to Creams and
Ointments.
In Skin Care products it is advantageous to
use both the Macerated Oil and Infusion so as
to benefit both from the water- and fatsoluble constituents. The active constituent
hypericin is found in the flowers and is what
gives the Macerated Oil its characteristic red
colour or this can be reddish brown if olive oil
is used for extraction. Many of the St. John's
Wort Oils available for sale are a green colour
(e.g. those extracted with CO2). This is
because the whole plant is used, which means
the chlorophyll content is higher and the
hypericin content lower.
The plant has also generated intense scientific
interest because of its potential as an antiviral,
antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and astringent
agent. It is particularly effective when applied
topically (in the form of an Ointment, Cream,
or Gel) for the treatment of sunburn, first
degree burns, cuts, scrapes, bruises, boils,
minor skin irritations and inflammations,
eczema, rheumatic and muscular aches and
pain associated with the nervous system, e.g.
myalgia. St. John's Wort Cream, Ointment or
Gel can also soothe the pain, burning and
itching of haemorrhoids. To treat oral herpes
(herpes simplex), apply the St. Johns Wort
Tincture to the lips and sit out in the sun for a
while.
Ways to use St. Johns Wort Macerated
Oil: The Macerated Oil is excellent for
sensitive skin, easily irritated skin and infected
acne or spots.
For a warming effect for stiff and tense
muscles, neuro-inflammations, sciatica, and
back pain massage with warm St. Johns Wort
Oil or use warm Oil soaked in a cotton cloth
as a warm, relieving Compress.
- 73 -
Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
Synonyms: Common Thyme, Garden
Thyme, Rubbed Thyme, French Thyme.
For a cooling effect - which is appropriate

when stretching cramped or pinched muscles
and easing pain - use unheated Macerated Oil
in a Compress or to massage the affected
area.
Parts used: Leaves and Flowering Tops.

and properties: This valuable and still wellused culinary and medicinal herb was known
to the Sumerians and used by the Egyptians,
Greeks and Romans as a flavouring agent and
as a fumigant (in incense), but became known
in the 17th century as a treatment for lung
diseases and digestive disorders. The herbalist
Nicholas Culpeper (1616-1654) praised
Thyme as a notable strengthener of the lungs.
The name is derived from thumus, the Greek
word for courage. In medieval times, knights
wore sprigs of Thyme on their armour as a
sign of courage. The scent of Thyme was
thought to give them strength in the midst of
battle, as well as relief from pain.
As St. Johns Macerated Oil is antiviral as well

as pain-relieving, the Oil works well for
healing shingles and associated blisters. Apply
the Oil up to 3 times a day.
Ways to use St. Johns Wort Infusion...
Thanks to the tanning agents found in the
herb, St. Johns Wort Infusion has excellent
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and wound
healing properties.
It can be used to wash wounds, bruises and
smaller burns. Use 15-20g dried, or 150-200g
fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water to make the
Infusion.
Thyme is indigenous to the Mediterranean

region and cultivated widely. Many current
formulas for well-known brand Mouth
Washes and Vapour Rubs contain thymol, one
of the constituents found in Thyme.
Use an Infusion in a Whole Body Bath to calm

irritated skin. Use 50-100g dried, or 5001000g fresh, herbs for the whole bath.
Hair Care: The Infusion makes a good Hair
Rinse for blonde highlights. Use 15-20g dried,
or 150-200g fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water
to make the Infusion.
, While St. Johns Wort is soothing to the
skin, it also makes the skin photosensitive
so the skin should not be exposed to
sunlight after St. John's Wort has been
applied externally, such as in a Cream,
Ointment or Macerated Oil. Even taking it
internally may make fair-skinned people
more sensitive to the sun. Hypericin
promotes blood circulation in the skin and
activates the finer capillaries.
, Research shows that taking St. Johns Wort
internally can counteract the effects of antidepressive drugs. If taking these drugs,
consult with your health care professional
before using St. Johns Wort internally.
Thymus vulgaris
74
Main constituents: The Essential Oils are

the main active constituent, with the phenolic
compounds, thymol and carvacrol being
dominant. It also contains resin, tannins, gum,
saponins and organic acids.
Oral Care: Use Thyme in Mouth Washes to

ease sore throats and to soothe irritable
coughs or to Gargles to help alleviate the
symptoms of laryngitis and tonsillitis. Add to
Toothpaste for its antibacterial properties.
Internal use: Thyme is useful in treating oral

and respiratory infections, upset stomachs,
sluggish digestion, flatulence, colic, hysteria,
pain or discomfort experienced just before or
during a menstrual period, headache, to
promote perspiration, and as a stimulating
tonic in convalescence from exhausting
diseases. It is also an excellent expectorant
cough remedy, clearing congestion and
reducing unnecessary spasm. It is often used
to treat bronchitis, whooping cough and
asthma. As a gentle astringent it has found use
in childhood diarrhoea and bed-wetting.
Preparation and usage of Thyme: Use an

Infusion (6-10g of the dried leaves per 1 litre
of water, or 25-30g of the fresh leaves per 2-3
litres of water) for Wet Compresses, Wound,
Cut and Scrape Washes, Foot Baths, Facial
Steam Baths, Hair Rinses, as a Mouth Wash or
Gargle and use instead of the water in your
Toothpaste Recipe. For Mouth Washes and
Gargles you can also use up to 10% of the
Tincture diluted in water and/or other
Use 6-10g of the dried leaves, or 25-30g of
the fresh leaves for a Whole Body Bath.
You can also add up to 0.5% Thyme Essential
Oils to these products.
Due to its strong antiseptic qualities, Thyme

destroys intestinal parasites. Research has
demonstrated Thyme's properties as a
booster to the immune system.
, If using in a Whole Body or Foot Bath,

make sure that the Essential Oil is
dispersed properly, and is contained in, for
example, Foam Bath or Turkey Red Bath
Oil.
External use - Skin and Body Care: A

Strong Infusion of Thyme together with the
Essential Oil in Creams, Lotions, Gels and
Compresses makes an effective treatment for
neuralgic and rheumatic pains. Use in an
antiseptic Compress or Wash for infected
wounds, cuts and scrapes.
Add Thyme to Foot Baths to treat fungal
infections such as athletes foot and also to
Whole Body Baths or your Foam Bath Recipes
to alleviate vaginal yeast infections. Thyme
contains tannins that cause proteins in skin to
cross-link, forming a barrier to infection. Use
a strong Infusion and/or Thyme Essential Oil
in a Facial Steam Bath to treat coughs and
colds.
Add to your Deodorant Recipes for its strong
antibacterial properties.
Hair Care: Thyme is used as antiseptic Hair
Rinse to treat dandruff; use it twice a week
until it has cleared up. You can also add 15-20
drops of Tea Tree, and 2-3 drops of Lavender,
Essential Oil per 100ml of Hair Rinse.
- 75 -
Tormentilla root
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla

Synonyms: Tormentil Root, Bloodroot,
Biscuits, Earthbank, English Sarsaparilla, Ewe
Daisy, Flesh and Blood, Septfoil, Shepherd's
Knapperty, Shepherd's Knot, Thormantle.
Germany in the Wiesental valley in Baden and

no salvation was in sight, a bird is said to have
come from the sky and chirped the following
song: Eat Tormentil and pimpernell and keep
away the deathly knell. The herb priest
Johann Knzle wrote in 1911: Gargling for 8
days with Bloodroot water makes loose teeth
gain a hold again. For this purpose, decoct the
chopped Bloodroot with hot water.
Parts used: the root, which is dug up in the

spring or autumn.
and properties: The word Tormentil is
derived from the Latin tormentina meaning
intestinal cramps or colic and the use of
Tormentil Root for these symptoms, as well
as the twinges of toothache, goes back a long
way. Potentilla erecta literally means an
upright powerful being (potentia = power,
erectus = upright). The astringent and
antibacterial action of Tormentilla Root was
known in antiquity.
When the dried Peruvian Rhatany Root

arrived in Germany in the late 18th century,
Bloodroot faded into oblivion. In the First
World War, Rhatany - coming from abroad was in short supply, so people turned back to
the indigenous Bloodroot, which actually
contains more tannins than Rhatany.
In the Western Isles of Scotland and in
Orkney, Tormentilla roots were used for
tanning leather and considered superior even
to Oak Bark, being first boiled in water and
the leather steeped in the cold liquor. The
Laplanders employed the thickened red juice
of the root for staining leather red.
Hildegard von Bingen was aware of the

benefits of this healing root and in the days of
the plague a heavenly voice is said to have
drawn people's attention to Bloodroot, which
is what Tormentilla Root was called then. In
1348-49, when the plague was raging in
The dye, Tormentil Red, extracted from

Tormentil Root is used to make a red ink.
Traditionally, Tormentilla has been used as an
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral, and
astringent to treat allergies, colitis, diarrhoea,
dysentery, gastroenteritis, gingivitis, heart
health maintenance, immune system, mouth
and throat inflammation, skin problems, and
vascular disorders.
In modern herbal medicine it is used
extensively as an astringent in diarrhoea and
other discharges, operating without producing
any stimulant effects. It also imparts
nourishment and support to the bowels.
According to the Doctrine of Signatures,
which according to medieval herbalists and
alchemists, was the idea that God has marked
everything he has created with a sign
(signature). This sign was an indication of the
purpose of the creation of the item.
Tormentilla Root is good for treating
problems or conditions involving the blood.
According to the Doctrine of Signatures, this
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla

76
Wild Pansy
Viola tricolor
is because the fleshy part of the root becomes
red after it has been cut. In this case, the
Doctrine of Signatures theory is correct, as
Tormentilla is good for stopping blood flow.
Main constituents: High concentration (1522%) tannins (pyrogallol, catechin derivatives,
ellagic acid derivatives). Other main
constituents are the pseudosaponin
tormentoside, quinovic acid, phenylpropanes
such as caffeic, p-coumaric, and sinapic acids,
as well as traces of Essential Oil.
Skin, Oral and Eye Care: Today
Tormentilla Root is mainly used externally for
its highly astringent properties due to its high
tannin content. The red pigment is able to
penetrate bacteria and inhibit their
development and it is also anaesthetic.
Preparation and usage of Tormentilla:
To use, make a strong Decoction of 20-30g
dried Root per 1 litre of water or use the
Tincture.
Synonyms: Heartsease, Garden Violet,

Bonewort, Love Idol.
Parts used: Whole plant. It is important to
collect the roots when harvesting. Can be
picked throughout the summer.
Main constituents: Mainly saponins,
especially in the roots. Also violine, flavonoid
glycosides (rutin, or Vitamin P which helps
to increase the permeability of the blood
also found in garlic), resin, methyl-salicylic
acid, bitter principle, tannins, carbohydrates
and small quantities of Essential Oil in the
flowers.
and properties: Wild Pansy has long been
used as medicinal herb for cleansing toxins,
relieving pain and as a healing herb used both
internally and externally.
Use a strong Decoction or up 15% of the

Tincture diluted in water and/or ingredients of
your choice as an astringent Mouth Wash or
Gargle for loose or bleeding gums, infections
and inflammations of the oral cavity (gums)
and throat.
Add up to 3% of the Tincture to your
Toothpastes.
As a strongly-made Decoction, it is
recommended as a good Wash for piles or an
eye Bath for inflamed eyes.
If a piece of cotton wool is soaked in the
Decoction and kept applied to warts, they
often disappear.
In Compresses for eczema, chilblains and
haemorrhoids.
Viola tricolor
- 77 -
Wild Pansy has been used to treat skin

diseases, eczema, asthma and epilepsy. It was
also believed that the flowers were good for
the heart, hence its popular name of
Heartsease. Today, Wild Pansy is used to
treat eczema, psoriasis, acne, pruritis and
impetigo (skin infection around the nose and
mouth). It is also said to be effective for
cradle cap.
with Comfrey, it is said to reduce the size of

pores and to rejuvenate the skin.
* A feverish condition in which there are
alternating periods of chills, fever, and sweating.
Hair Care: Used in Hair Care products such
as Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners
for conditions where sores are present or
there is eczema of the scalp.
The herbalist John Gerard (1545-1612) states:

'It is goodfor such as are sick of ague*,
especially children and infants, whose
convulsions and fits of the falling sickness it is
thought to cure. It is commended against
inflammation of the lungs and chest, and
against scabs and itchings of the whole body
and healeth ulcers.'
Kolbjorns Skin Care Tips for Wild

Pansy: Studies show that Wild Pansy has a
clear, positive effect on acne, eczema,
impetigo, pruritis and babys Cradle Cap.
To make sure that you derive the best
benefits from Wild Pansy for these conditions,
it is important to use the roots, which contain
the highest concentration of saponins in the
plant. The saponins seem to exfoliate the
eczema and any scaly skin from the skin.
The flowers were considered cordial and

good in diseases of the heart, from which may
have arisen its popular name of Heartsease as
much as from the belief in it as a love potion.
Preparation and usage of Wild Pansy:

For all kinds of Skin Care products, including
Eczema Creams and Gels. Make a strong
Decoction of 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of
water by boiling for 15-20 minutes and
allowing to draw for 1 hour.
On the European Continent, the herbaceous

parts of the plant have been employed for
their mucilaginous, demulcent and
expectorant properties. The root and seeds
are also emetic and purgative, which
properties, as well as the expectorant action
of the plant, are doubtless due to the
presence of the violine. Pansy leaves are also
used on the European Continent in place of
litmus in acid and alkali tests.
Eczema Ointments are best made with a

Tincture. Use 5-10% in your Recipes.
For Shampoos, Conditioners, Foam Baths and
Hair Rinses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre
of water.
Wild Pansy was formerly official in the United

States Pharmacopoeia, and is still employed in
America in the form of an Ointment and
Poultice in eczema and other skin troubles,
and internally for bronchitis. Its external
application seems to be especially effective and
safe to use on babies and children.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried

herb for the whole bath.
For Steam Baths and Compresses use 20-25g
dried herb per 1 litre of water.
, When using Baths, Compresses and
Poultices to treat conditions such as
eczema or psoriasis, it is very important to
start with calming herbs for a week. Then
you can continue the treatment with herbs
that draw out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
Skin Care: Wild Pansy is healing, cleansing

and soothing and is used in Compresses,
Baths, Steam Baths and in Creams and
Ointments for Skin Care. It is especially
effective in helping to treat problem skin,
acne, eczema, psoriasis and rough skin. Wild
Pansy can be used in Tincture form as an
ingredient in a Facial Toner. When combined
78
Witch Hazel
Hamamelis virginiana
Synonyms: Hamamelis macrophylla, Spotted
Alder, Striped Alder, Tobacco Wood,
Winterbloom, Snapping Hazelnut.
itching eczema, bruises, etc. Its high tannin

content has a strengthening astringent effect
on veins and is therefore very useful for
treating varicose veins and minor capillary
problems.
Parts used: Leaves.

and properties: Witch Hazel is a winter
blooming tree indigenous to Canada and the
eastern United States. It is a traditional
remedy of North American Indians, who used
it as a Decoction in poultices for bruising,
inflammation and venous problems (including
haemorrhoids). Its use spread to Europe after
Europeans settled in North America in the
18th century.
The external skin forms a protective covering

after the tannins have tightened the proteins
and underlying blood vessels, thus reducing
inflammation. Unlike Arnica, Witch Hazel can
be used on broken and damaged skin. It is
mildly antiseptic and soothing.
Witch Hazel is also said to stimulate the
formation of new epithelial cells and is often
used cold or with ice to reduce the pain of
sprains and athletic injuries and to reduce
swollen bruises. For this purpose, combine
with up to 5% of Arnica Tincture.
Main constituents: Tannins (up to 10%)

and volatile oils are the main active
constituents in Witch Hazel. These
constituents contribute to the strong
astringent effect of Witch Hazel. Also contains
saponins and glycosides.
Skin Care: Witch Hazel is well used in the
cosmetic and toiletry industry in Face Toners,
Shaving Creams, Face Packs, After Shave
Creams and Haemorrhoid Ointments, Creams
and Gels. The Hydrolate, Infusion or Tincture
of fresh leaves and twigs of Hamamelis are all
used because of the herbs astringent and antiinflammatory effects, and has also been
recommended for certain skin conditions,
such as boils, bed sores, insect bites, ulcers,
It is the classic Facial Toner, but dont use

more than 10-30% in your Toner Recipes
because it is so strong that it can sting your
skin. Because of its skin-tightening and
astringent properties, it is ideal for treating
oily skin types, controlling minor pimple
formation, and skin with large pores.
Hair Care: Use as an effective Hair Rinse to
combat dandruff. Make a strong Infusion or
30% Hydrolate diluted in water.
Eye Care: Use Witch Hazel Infusion or 5%
Witch Hazel Hydrolate diluted in water in
combination with 5% Chamomile Hydrolate
or 1-2% Eyebright Tincture in an Eye
Compress to reduce swollen and puffy eyes.
Dont use more than 10% of Witch Hazel
Hydrolate diluted in water around the eyes.
Oral Care: Add 5% Witch Hazel Tincture to
water and/or other ingredients or 20-30%
Witch Hazel Hydrolate to water /and or other
ingredients and use as a Mouth Wash or
Gargle to counteract gum or throat
inflammations. You can also add other
ingredients to the Mouth Wash or Gargle,
such as Myrrh Tincture, Tormentilla
Decoction or Tea Tree and Peppermint
Essential Oils.
Hamamelis virginiana
- 79 -
Yarrow
Achillea millefolium
Synonyms: Milfoil, Millefoil, Nosebleed,
Staunchgrass, Thousand-leaf, Soldier's
woundwort, Sanguinary, Bloodwort, Noble
Yarrow, Old Man's Pepper, Knight's Milfoil,
Herbe Militaris, Thousand Weed, Carpenter's
Weed, Staunchweed, Devil's Nettle, Devil's
Plaything, Bad Man's Plaything, Yarroway,
Angel flower.
Pet Care: Witch Hazel is commonly used

for treating horses, but can be used on dogs
and cats as well. Use a Decoction made from
the bark externally on varicose veins,
inflammation and bruising.
,The Witch Hazel Water sold today in
Parts used: Flowering tops.
chemists very often does not contain

authentic Witch Hazel extracts but
rather traces of Wintergreen oil in
distilled water and alcohol. Wintergreen
needs to be used with caution as it is
very strong.

and properties: Yarrow grows widely in
Europe, North America, and Asia and has
traditionally been used in Europe, India and
China to help stop minor bleeding and to treat
wounds; to treat inflammation in a number of
conditions, especially in the intestinal and
female reproductive tracts; and as a mild
sedative. The ancient Chinese fortune-telling
system known as the I Ching first used dried
Yarrow stems, then later replaced them with
coins.
Witch Hazel After Shave Toner

Recipe
(Makes 100ml)
44ml Still Water
30ml Witch Hazel Hydrolate
25ml Vodka
10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil
Normally this will keep for at least 1 year
without any Preservative. To keep it longer,
add a Preservative.
Main constituents: A number of chemicals

may contribute to Yarrows actions. The
volatile oil, which is rich in sesquiterpene
lactones and alkamides, has been found to
have anti-inflammatory properties in test tube
studies.
Method
1.
2.
Simply measure the ingredients and

blend everything together in a bottle.
To keep for more than 8 months, add a
Preservative.
Achillea millefolium
80
Internal use: Yarrow is used internally for:

Colic; common cold; sore throat; Crohns
disease; indigestion and heartburn;
inflammation; premenstrual syndrome;
ulcerative colitis; smooth muscle spasms.
hair. Used as a Hair Rinse, it is effective for

treating dandruff, itchiness and small wounds
on the scalp. It has also been shown to help
counteract hair loss. Regular use of the Hair
Rinse will gently bleach the hair.
External use: Used as a universal remedy in

the treatment of: a wide range of wounds and
sores; malignant sores; bruises and bumps;
swellings; cracked skin, nose bleeds; boils;
small burns; haemorrhoids; and varicose veins.
It also staunches bleeding and tones the skin.
Used externally mainly for its antiseptic, antiinflammatory and astringent properties in the
healing of sores as it stimulates granulation
through the combined action of the Essential
Oil, alkaloids and tannins.
Oral Care: Yarrow makes an excellent

astringent Mouth Wash to tighten gums.
Skin Care: Yarrow is used for its astringent,

healing and soothing effects on the skin. It
strengthens skin tone. It can be used for oily
skin, acne, large pores, wrinkles and eczema.
To make a Facial Toner, add 2.5% Yarrow
Tincture to your Recipes (see example of
Recipe below). Yarrow is often an ingredient
in certain products for dandruff, itchiness and
sores of the scalp, eczema-type rashes with
sores and itchiness.
2 drops Lavender Essential Oil

4ml Sage Tincture
4ml Yarrow Tincture
5ml Glycerine/Sorbitol
87ml Still Water
Pet Care: The alkaloid obtained from

Yarrow, known as achilletin, reportedly stops
bleeding in animals. Make a strong Infusion and
either apply topically or let the animal take it
internally.
Skin Toner for Oily Skin

(Makes approximately 100ml)
For Method see page 16.

Kolbjorns Yarrow-gathering Tip
Take care when gathering the flowers as the
fresh juice can cause photosensitivity in people
with sensitive skins.
Due its astringent, haemostatic (bloodstopping), antiseptic and anti-inflammatory

properties, Yarrow Tincture has a wide range
of uses. It is used as a Wash and in
Compresses to treat wounds, boils, burns,
bruises, bumps, cracked skin and other skin
problems.
Usage and preparation of Yarrow: For

use in Skin Care products it is best to use the
pure Essential Oil, as well as a strong Infusion
or Tincture.
Yarrow Tincture or Infusion together with the

pure Essential Oil can be added to
Compresses, Skin Toners, Baths, Ointments,
Gels and Creams.
For Whole Body Baths, use a strong Infusion
of Yarrow to help treat weeping eczema and
other skin problems.
Hair Care: Use Yarrow in Hair Care
products for its strengthening, drying and
healing properties. Yarrow has a drying effect
on the scalp, so only use in products for oily
For Hair Rinses and Foam Bath, Shampoo and

Cream recipes, use the Infusion. Use
approximately 15-20g dried Yarrow flowers
per 1 litre of water or 150-200g fresh flowers
per 2-3 litres of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 50g dried flowers
for the whole bath.
For Compresses use 20-25g dried Yarrow
flowers per 1 litre of water or 200-250g fresh
flowers per 2-3 litres of water.
For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the
Tincture diluted in water and/or other
- 81 -
Glossary...
Acne:
a skin disorder caused by excess production of oil from sebaceous glands

causing the hair follicles to become plugged. Hormone changes during
teenage years can cause oil glands to become overactive. Acne is
characterized by black heads, pimple outbreaks, cysts, infected abscesses,
and, sometimes, scarring.
Alterative:
a medicine that gradually restores the healthy functions, hastens the

renewal of tissues and changes a bad condition in the blood.
Anodyne:
a medicine that eases pain by lessening nervous sensitivity.
Antibacterial:
has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against bacteria.
Antibilious:
combats and stops biliousness (upset stomach caused by a disorder of the

liver or gall bladder).
Antifungal:
has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against fungi.
Antimicrobial:
Antiseptic:
same as antiseptic i.e. a substance that inhibits the growth of micro

organisms including bacteria, viruses and fungi, though some antimicrobial
herbs work for specific areas of the body only and may be used internally
or externally.
a substance used to prevent or reduce the possibility of infection, sepsis
or putrefaction by germs. An antiseptic is a substance that kills or
prevents the growth and reproduction of various micro-organisms,
including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses on the external surfaces of
the body.
Antiviral:
have the same action as antiseptics, but only act against viruses.
Aromatic:
having a fragrant smell.
Astringent:
a medicine which causes contraction of tissue, restraining discharges.

Externally applied astringents, which cause mild coagulation of skin
proteins, dry, harden, and protect the skin. Mildly astringent solutions are
used in the relief of such minor skin irritations as those resulting from
superficial cuts, allergies, insect bites, or athlete's foot.
Balsamic:
a term usually applied to substances containing resins and benzoic acid.
BCE:
this stands for Before the Common Era, which is an alternative notation
for AD (Anno Domini, or the Year of our Lord). It is considered to be
more respectful to non-Christians.
Bitter:
bitter tasting substances, used to stimulate the appetite, or aid digestion.
Carbuncle:
infection of the hair follicle.
Carminative:
a medicine which prevents or relieves flatulence.
Cholagogue:
stimulates the production of bile.

82
CE:
this stands for Common Era, which is an alternative notation for BC

(Before Christ). It is considered to be more respectful to non-Christians.
Demulcent:
soothes the alimentary canal.
Dermatic:
acts on the skin.
Detergent:
cleansing agent
Digestive:
aids digestion.
Diuretic:
a medicine that stimulates elimination of water from the body by

increasing urine output.
Eczema:
an inflammation of the skin, usually causing itching and sometimes

accompanied by crusting, scaling or blisters. A type of eczema often made
worse by allergen exposure is termed atopic dermatitis.
Emollient:
softens and soothes, reduces inflammation and irritation.
Epithelial cells:
the cells that form the outer layer of the skin, and the membranes lining
the digestive tract, bladder and uterus, as well as the tubes and ducts that
run through the body's organs.
Expectorant:
promotes the expulsion of secretions from the lungs and so is used for
loosening and breaking up a cough.
Febrifuge:
reduces fever.
Granulation:
the newly formed vascular tissue normally produced in the healing of

wounds of soft tissue. Some herbs can help this new tissue to grow
quickly, helping wounds to heal faster.
Haemorrhoid:
distended, varicose vein either inside or at the opening of the rectum,

usually involving the discomforts of itchiness, pain and bleeding. Can be
treated externally with e.g. tannins and essential oils but better long-term
results are achieved through dietary changes which increase fluid intake
and fibres in the form of grains and fruit and vegetables.
Hayfever:
is an allergic condition affecting the mucous membranes of the upper

respiratory tract and the eyes with a collection of symptoms. It is most
often characterized by nasal discharge, sneezing and itchy, watery eyes.
Hayfever is generally caused by an abnormal sensitivity to airborne pollen
or dust.
Hepatic:
stimulates the function of the liver.
Infection:
caused by bacteria, fungi or parasites invading the skin. Under normal

circumstances the skin is impenetrable but access can be gained, also by
small micro-organisms, wherever the skin is broken or there is damaged
tissue. Once invaded the tissue will react by becoming inflamed.
Immunostimulant: increases the ability of the immune system to fight infection and disease.
- 83 -
Impetigo:
a bacterial skin infection characterized by microscopic, pus-filled blisters.
Inflammation:
normal defensive reaction of body tissue or organ which has been

subjected to invasion or damage of some kind, e.g. bacterial infection,
physical blow, bruising or burning. The symptoms are a rise in
temperature, reddening, swelling and (painful) tenderness of the affected
area.
Irritant:
causes irritation.
Laxative:
mild bowel stimulant.
Narcotic:
produces deep sleep or unconsciousness.
Nervine:
restores normality to the nervous system.
Nutritive:
supplies nutrients.
Parasiticide:
destroys parasites.
Phlebitis:
Inflammation on the wall of a vein, usually in the legs.
Psoriasis:
a common disorder of the skin in which scaly, often itchy, pink patches
form on the arms, knees, back and scalp. It will often reoccur and its
cause is not fully understood, although it is generally considered to be an
auto-immune disease. An auto-immune disease is one where the body has
an immune response against one of its own tissues or types of cells.
Purgative:
causes evacuations of the bowels (more forceful than a laxative).
Pyoderma:
an infection of the skin, which is often the result of a bacterial invasion.
Resolvent:
reduces swellings.
Resorptive:
reabsorbs blood from bruises.
Sedative:
calms nervous excitement.
Stimulant:
temporarily stimulates nervous or muscular activity.
Stomachic:
gastric stimulant.
Styptic:
helps to clot blood, preventing bleeding.
Tonic:
a substance that invigorates or strengthens the system (also called

adaptogen); often acting as stimulants or alternatives.
Vasoconstrictor:
causes constriction of the blood vessels.
Vulnerary:
promotes the healing of the wounds.
84
Metric-US Conversion tables...

These are for our American readers and customers. The millilitres and grams have sometimes
been rounded off to make it easier for you to work with the Recipes in this book. I have used
American spelling in these tables.
If you get stuck, cant see the measurement you need, or would like to be more precise in your
calculations, a very useful metric conversion site with online calculators for temperature, weight
and volume is www.metric-conversions.org.
Note: I use grams to weigh raw materials because its much easier to work with and more
accurate than measuring cups and spoons. This is because the volume (the space something takes
up) of different raw materials will vary in relation to weight e.g. 2 ounces of Shea Butter in weight
will be smaller in size (take up less volume) than 2 ounces of Dried Herbs in weight (therell be a
lot more of the Herbs i.e. it would take up more space in a measuring cup). This is why I always
recommend that my students and customers buy a sensitive gram scale.
Volume (Dry)
American
standard
1
/8 teaspoon
/4 teaspoon
1
/2 teaspoon
3
/4 teaspoon
1 teaspoon
1 tablespoon
1
/4 cup
1
/3 cup
/2 cup
2
/3 cup
3
/4 cup
1 cup
2 cups or 1 pint
3 cups
4 cups or 1 quart
1
/2 gallon
1 gallon
1
Volume (Liquid)
American
standard
(cups and
quarts)
1
/8 teaspoon
Metric
(millilitres
)
0.5ml
1ml
2ml
4ml
5ml
15ml
59ml
American
standard
(fluid
ounces)
0.5ml
1ml
2ml
4ml
/4 teaspoon
/2 teaspoon
/4 teaspoon
1 teaspoon
1
79ml
118ml
158ml
177ml
225ml
450ml
675ml
1 litre
2 litres
4 litres
Metric
(millilitres
and litres)
5ml
/2 tablespoon
/4 fl. oz
8ml
1 tablespoon
fl. oz
15ml
2 tablespoon
1 fl. oz
30ml
/8 cup
/4 cup
35ml
2 fl. oz
65ml
85ml
95ml
/3 cup
/8 cup
/2 cup
4 fl. oz
125ml
160ml
/3 cup
170ml
cup
190ml
/8 cup
/8
1 cup
220ml
8 fl. oz
250ml
1 /2 cups
12 fl. oz
375ml
2 cups or 1 pint
16 fl. oz
500ml
4 cups or 1 quart
32 fl. oz
1 litre
1 gallon
128 fl. oz
4 litres
- 85 -
Weight/mass
Temperature
American standard
(ounces)
Metric
(grams)
ounce
15g
1 ounce
30g
3 ounces
85g
3.75 ounces
100g
4 ounces
115g
8 ounces
225g
12 ounces
340g
16 ounces or 1lb
450g
Celsius (C)
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
60
65
70
75
80
85
90
95
100
Fahrenheit (F)
50
59
68
77
86
95
104
113
122
140
149
158
167
176
185
194
203
212
Bibliography...
Books
Borseth, K. 2005.
Aromantic, Forres.
Aromantic Education Pack 1,

135 Hair and Skin Care Recipes, Second Edition.
Borseth, K. 2005.
Aromantic, Forres.
Aromantic Education Pack 2, An A-Z of 160

Raw materials for Making your own nature-friendly Skin
Care products and Cosmetics, Second Edition.
BHMA. 1983.
British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, BHMA, Bournemouth.
Johansson, L; Spngberg, A. 1982.

Tofters, Ostervala.
Vital Kur.
Hoffmann, D. 1990
Element, Shaftesbury.
The New Holistic Herbal, Second Edition.
Wickes Felter, H; Uri Lloyd, J. 1898. King's American Dispensatory.

Websites
www.wars-grin.gov/duke/plants.html - Dr. Duke's Phytochemical & Ethnobotanical Databases.
www.botanical.com - A Modern Herbal, Mrs M. Grieve.
www.wikipedia.org - Wikipedia, the free online dictionary.
www.aromantic.co.uk - Aromantics website including other publications and recipes.
86
Biographies...
Kolbjrn Borseth
Originally from Norway, Kolbjrn Borseth is the founder of Aromantic and has
been working with and developing Natural Skin Care products since he started
his factory in Sweden 20 years ago. His mission is to reveal the secrets that the
cosmetic industry would rather hide from us. He now teaches others how to
make their own products using natural raw materials tailor-made for their
clients through providing recipes, educational guides and educational courses.
Susan Kemp
Born in South Africa in a country that still places a strong emphasis on folk
remedies today and into a family with more than its fair share of herbalists,
homeopaths, healers and humanitarians, Susan has seen and enjoyed the
benefits of natures medicine her whole life. Her professional training and
experience in areas as diverse as advertising and marketing and kinesiology,
massage therapy and natural health retail has resulted in most of her editing
and writing work being in the fields of natural health. Susan has worked on a
variety of Aromantic writing and editing projects with Kolbjorn Borseth since
1998. Herbalism is a favourite subject of hers.
Stewart Noble
Stewart Noble is a social entrepreneur and is now widely known for his work
developing LETS communities (Local Exchange Trading System) to promote the
use of interest free local currencies. Stewart has worked for Aromantic since
1998, contributing to the overall success of the company. He has also produced
most of the Aromantic printed materials, Recipe Brochures and Newsletters.
William Youssi
William was born in Paris and was visiting Scotland when we met him. He is a
carpenter by trade and loves to travel with his art, sculpting, illustrating,
painting and story telling. Of this project he said, I enjoy to follow the line and
shape of these plants with my eyes and pen and try to capture the spirit of each
herb.
Companies that sell Herbs,Tinctures and/or Essential Oils...

The Organic Herb Trading Co, Somerset
Tel: 01823 401205
www.organicherbtrading.co.uk
Phoenix Apothecary, Findhorn
Tel: 01309 691044
Aromantic Natural Skin Care
Tel: 01309 696900
Neals Yard Remedies
Tel: 0845 2623145 www.nealsyardremedies.com
Essentially Oils
Tel: 01608 659544 www.essentiallyoils.com
www.aromantic.co.uk
To find a herbalist in your area, contact:

National Institute of Medical Herbalists
Tel: 01392 426022 www.nimh.org.uk
- 87 -
88
Learn how to make your own Natural Skin,

Hair, Body and Health Care products that
have real healing benefits!
Featuring recipes for you to try at home, this Guide
contains the basic information and general methods
you need to make natural products for yourself, your
family and friends. If youre a Complementary
Therapist you may even want to tailor-make them
for, and sell them to, your clients. Learn how to make
Natural Creams, Ointments, Macerated Herb Oils,
Skin Toners, Nail Baths, Hair Rinses & Tonics, Mouth
Washes, Foam Baths, Pet Care products and how to
use herbs in Shampoos, Gels, Body and Foot Baths,
Facial Steams, Compresses and Poultices...and more!
A comprehensive and illustrated reference guide on
37 common, easily available herbs will help you to
decide which herbs to use for different purposes.
Enjoy taking your health and beauty into your
own hands!
Published by Aromantic Ltd

17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray,
IV36 1EL, Scotland.
Tel: (01309) 696900
Fax: (01309) 696911
E-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk
Website: www.aromantic.co.uk
Copyright 2006 - Aromantic Ltd
ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9
RRP 12.95

Use of Herbs in Skin Hair and Health Care Products

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Use of Herbs in Skin Hair and Health Care Products

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Aromantic Guide

to the use of ...

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

The Aromantic Guide

in Skin, Hair and Health Care products

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Herbal medicine traditions...

Polysaccharides such as gums and mucilages.

More about some of the constituents found in herbs...

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Some examples of herbs high in tannins in more detail:

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

How to prepare your Herbs for use in

How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes...

Herbal CO2 Extracts...

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Macerated Herb Oils...

Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty...

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Base Recipe for Foam Baths

Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes

Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Compresses, Poultices and Plasters...

How to prepare a Heating Compress

Method for Wet Compresses

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Kolbjorns Tips for Compresses

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Basic Method for making all Creams

Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double

Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or

Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together,

When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75C

Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You

Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when

Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has

Heating the Fat and Water Stages

Mixing the Fat and Water Stages

Pouring the Cream into a jar

Method for making Base Ointments

Melt the Beeswax and Vegetable Oil together in a double boiler.

Shampoos, Conditioners,Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

Aloe was also mentioned in ancient Chinese

Synonyms: Barbados Aloe, Coastal Aloe,

Aloe was also mentioned in the writings of the

Parts used: Gel from the leaves (can be

Description & properties: Aloe plants

Internal use: Aloe Vera has many uses

Main constituents: 96% water, lignin,

Pet Care: Cuts and scrapes: Freshly cut

External use for Skin, Hair and Body

Usage and preparation of Aloe Vera in

Aloe Vera is used in Skin Care products that

For how to make your own Aloe Vera Gel from

Aloe Vera Gel can be used in the following

The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs

crushing. Also good for pulled muscles and

For acutely inflamed haemorrhoids, use Cold

Homoeopathic Arnica can be taken internally

, The skin should not be in contact with