Making Mineral Makeup

Module 4

Plush Folly Ltd

Making Mineral & Coloured Makeup

A Distance Learning Course

Module 4

The products you make and the ingredients you use during this course are for personal use only and
must not be sold commercially. If you intend to make and sell cosmetic products, your product
formulation must be certified by a cosmetic chemist and conform to the cosmetic regulations laid out
in the DTI guide. See our EU Cosmetic Legislation workshop or distance learning course for more
details.
Plush Folly cannot be held responsible for any adverse reactions caused by handling and/or using the
ingredients. As with all new products, please do a patch test if you are unsure of suitability for your
skin.

Plush Folly Ltd

Making Mineral Makeup

Module 4

Plush Folly Ltd

Module Four
1
2
3
4
5

Making liquid makeup products

Using preservatives in makeup
Other additives and ingredients used in makeup products
Face makeup products
Recipes making a primer, foundation and concealer

Making liquid makeup products

Whilst moving away slightly from being 100% mineral, liquid makeup products can be
versatile and are often easier to apply than powdered products.
Typical liquid products that fall into this easier to apply category
include eyeliner and foundation.
Waters
The liquid products may contain oil as part of the liquid and they
are likely also to contain water. Whilst you can use tap or cooled
boiled water, it is preferable to use spring, deionised, distilled or
floral water.
Spring water can be obtained from most supermarkets and you will find deionised and/or
distilled water in hardware shops or car accessory shops. These waters are usually used in
car batteries, steam irons and other electrical items to prevent a build up of minerals on the
internal components.
Floral waters
Floral waters (hydrolats) are a by-product of essential oil distillation. To create essential oils
using the steam distillation method, the aromatic plant material is plunged into boiling
water. As the water continues to boil it gives off steam. This steam carries the aroma and
certain beneficial properties from the plant material. The
steam is collected and cooled so that it condenses back into
water. At this point there will hopefully be droplets of oil
floating on the surface of the condensed water this is the
essential oil that is extracted off. The remaining water is the
hydrolat or floral water.
This water is widely used in cosmetic products and can
successfully be used in makeup products. As well as bringing
beneficial properties to your makeup, it will also give the
product a subtle aroma.

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Other liquid products

Although not technically a water, aloe vera liquid can be used in makeup products either as
a blend with water or as a substitute to water.
We recommend the use of a preservative whether you are using water, hydrolats or aloe
vera in your makeup products.

Using preservatives in makeup

As soon as you use water in a makeup product you should also

use a preservative. Water is a breeding ground for bacteria and
once water is mixed with other ingredients it becomes an ideal
environment for bacteria, yeast, fungus and mould to breed and
therefore multiply. If any of these microbes become in contact
with the skin or enter the body via open pores, tear ducts,
nostrils or mouth, infection can develop causing all sorts of
unpleasant reactions.
A preservative will prevent the growth of these micro-organisms and kill off any spores
present in your product.
Preservatives are an important ingredient in makeup products as the addition of a
preservative will allow your product to remain clean and safe for up to three years or so.
Products containing water and no preservative will have a shelf life of as little as two weeks.
Since most of the makeup products created wont be used up in two weeks, even if used
every day, it would be a shame to waste the product and awful to develop a skin infection
due to the product going off.
The most important factor of any makeup product is NOT just how lovely it looks on your
skin, but that it is safe to use. Commercial makeup will contain preservatives to allow them
to remain fresh, safe to use and non-toxic during the period of time from manufacture to
the time the customer is finished using the makeup product. In some cases, this extends to
several years.
To prevent and control the speed of growth and volume of the microorganisms you will
need to use a preservative in your makeup products that contain water. You need to
include enough preservative to control microbial growth, yet not too much so as to cause
allergies, dermatitis or any side effects.

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Good habits to prevent the growth of unwanted microbes

It is important to remember that if you are making natural, preservative-free makeup
products they will not stay fresh for as long as commercial products. Making your products
in small batches that are used within a short period of time will help to avoid the need for
preservatives.
In order to minimise the introduction and growth of bacteria in your freshly made makeup,
there are some sensible practices you can adopt.

Be sure your hands, work surface, and utensils are scrupulously clean when creating
your products. This will help ensure that you do not introduce bacteria or
contaminate your batch.
Store your products in a cool, dark place. Sunlight, heat and moisture all help to
deteriorate your product. Always make sure that the lids are replaced after opening
the container.
Use spring water, deionised or distilled water in your makeup products.
Ensure that your packaging is airtight. Some products may oxidize and go rancid
when exposed to air.
Avoid putting your fingers into your product. Bacteria on your fingers can be
transferred to the product in this way. Instead of using your fingers, use a clean
spatula, lolly stick or cotton bud instead.
Storing your foundation or primers in an air-tight pump is a very successful method
of eliminating the introduction of bacteria via transference from fingers
Keep your products cool. Store your products in the fridge and ensure that they are
labelled with the production date. Note that makeup that contains a preservative
does not need to be stored in a fridge, nor do makeup products that do not contain
water.

What makes good preservative?

A good preservative must be one that can overcome
the broad spectrum of microbes whilst ensuring that it
does not harm the skin or cause weakening or
deterioration to any of the other ingredients contained
in the product.
A good preservative will be safe for use on the skin,
prevent the growth of broad spectrum activity
(bacteria, mould, yeast and fungus), ensure that this
growth is suppressed for the duration of the makeup
products shelf life, be efficient over a wide pH range, work with other ingredients in the
product and not cause any unnecessary smell or change to the product.

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Natural preservatives
Are there any natural preservatives? The answer is yes and no. Most preservatives contain
chemicals and these chemicals can be natural, or they may be manmade. So let us ask if
there are any natural preservatives that do not contain chemicals that you may not want to
put onto your skin.
There are no 100% natural preservatives that are sufficiently adequate to keep your makeup
products safe and bacteria-free for as long as an unnatural processed preservative.
Commercially produced makeup products are likely to be stored in warehouses, on shop
shelves and in our cupboards for up to three years (or more) and therefore need to be
preserved as thoroughly as possible, which means chemical preservatives designed for
longevity as well as being thoroughly tested for skin suitability.
Natural preservatives are very much still a topic of debate as there is still some way to go
with regards to proof of success.
Natural and easily obtainable ingredients that may help to keep your makeup products safe
for a period of time include essential oils (tea tree, thyme, rosemary), neem oil, vitamin E,
vitamin C, grapefruit seed extract, rosemary extract, honey, sugar, lemon and salt. Many of
these are not suitable for use in makeup products (honey, sugar, lemon, salt and so on) and
many of them will add a strong aroma to the product (the essential oils).
Essential oils are natural substances that can have excellent preservative properties, but are
yet to be used extensively to preserve cosmetic products. We know that essential oils used
in perfumes are powerful antiseptics that kill most of the harmful bacteria and fungi without
harming the human system. The addition of a single drop of sweet orange essential oil to
50g of an emulsified (water and oil) product will most likely keep bacteria at bay for several
weeks.
Grapefruit Seed Extract GSE is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant and
preservative. It is used to promote healing. Grapefruit Seed Extract, according to published
sources, is effective against more than 800 bacterial and viral organisms, 100 strains of
fungus, and a large number of single-cell and multi-celled parasites. Sounds good, but it can
be irritating to skin so always patch test first.
Essential Oils Those with the best preservative properties include tea tree, lemon,
benzoin, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus, lavender, rose, rosemary, sage, sandalwood and
thyme. Unfortunately the levels of essential oil required to boost the preservation to
acceptable proportions would make the product too strong in terms of both aroma and
potency to apply to the skin.
Blended preservatives
The preservative we have provided you with for use during this course is either Microkill
COS or Optiphen. We have no preference towards one, both work in the same way and
both have been tested extensively for skin safety both in the short and longer term.

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Each of these preservatives contains phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol. Microkill also
contains chlorphenesin. Between them, these individual ingredients create an odourless,
clear, slightly emollient liquid that will kill off all known instances of fungus, mould, bacteria
and fungus. Both preservatives are used in baby products.
Im sure that if you search through the internet you will find both positive and negative
reports on the individual ingredients. At the time of writing, there is no trend that makes
these preservatives either better or worse than other similar products on the market, but
knowing how fickle cosmetic emotions are, no doubt that at some point they will drop out
of favour and probably back in again!
Another preservative that is getting some interest is Microkill ECT (not to be confused with
Microkill COS mentioned above). Microkill ECT has been approved by ECOcert and can be
used in organic products.
Microkill ECT can be broken down into benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerine and sorbic
acid. It works by creating an environment that bacteria cannot thrive in (an acid
environment think lemons and vinegar as preservatives). However, the pH will more than
likely need to be adjusted as this will be too acid for the skin. To adjust the pH to a more
skin friendly level, you will need to add an alkali such as diluted sodium hydroxide.
Please do take time out to satisfy yourself that whatever preservative you choose, it is
suitable for skin, wont have an adverse reaction with any of the other ingredients you are
using, that it wont bring any unwanted odour or colour to your product and that it will do
what it is supposed to do without causing any concerns.
The internet is a useful tool for research but it can also act as chief scaremonger when
information is not fully understood and reported in a shock, horror, probe! type fashion.
Both phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol have had their fair share of bad press and yet if
they werent safe, they wouldnt be approved for use in cosmetic products nor have the
proven track record they both currently enjoy.
How do I know if my preservative works?
In order to be able to sell your products legally, your formula (makeup recipe) will need to
be approved by a cosmetic chemist (toxicologist) and if it contains water and therefore a
preservative, it is likely to require challenge and stability tests.
Every cosmetic product that requires a preservative will have a different need. Several
factors have an impact on which preservative is best for that particular product
Type of product leave on creams need different levels of preservative than a shampoo.
Use of product a mascara may require a different preservative to a lipstick.
Shelf life the longer you wish your makeup product to last, the more preservative you will
need to use.

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Typically, if you have no preservative, your water-content product will last a few days to a
few weeks.
With the addition of a preservative such as grapefruit seed extract at 1%, you will extend
the shelf life to a few weeks to a few months.
With the use of a recognised, suitable preservative such as Microkill at 1%, you will extend
your products shelf life to 1 year.
Challenge test
In order to prove that your preservative works you can pay to have your product challenge
tested. If you plan to sell your makeup products, this test is compulsory.
A challenge test is a test undertaken in a laboratory. Your makeup product will be
introduced to millions of microbacteria and tested over a period of time, usually six weeks,
to see how much, if any, of the bacteria are thriving.
If, at the end of the test, there are unacceptable levels of bacteria remaining in your
product, it will fail the test. If the levels of bacteria are non-existent your product will pass
and you will be able to take your product to market.
Stability test
A stability test is a test undertaken in a laboratory.
Your makeup product will be subjected to changes in
conditions such as temperature, light and movement.
If, at the end of your test, which is usually over a three
month period, the product has separated,
deteriorated or changed in some other unacceptable
way, it will fail the test. If it remains as you expected,
then it will pass and you will be able to take your
product to market.
The main problem with natural preservatives is that they are not likely to be strong enough
to ensure product safety over a prolonged period of time.
Non-aqueous products
Makeup products that do not contain water are unlikely to require the addition of a
preservative as there is no water to encourage bacteria growth. Products such as powder /
pressed powders, cream eye shadows, lip products and primers will have a natural shelf life
of more than a few months plus providing they are used and stored properly.
The formula for these products will still require being checked (safety assessed) and
certified by a cosmetic chemist, but no physical testing of the product is required. These
tests are much quicker and consequently usually much cheaper than the challenge tests.

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What actually happens if the product goes off?

The first side effect that you are likely to notice is spots of greyish green mould growing on
the surface of your product. Other indications may be that the product has developed an
off or rancid smell or that it feels a little stingy (acid) on your skin. This is due to a change
in pH.
The product may discolour or turn cloudy when it was
previously clear. It may also become thinner and runnier.
Do not be afraid to use a preservative! They are safe and
effective if used properly. Keep your makeup containers,
your work surfaces, equipment, utensils and hands clean to
help your products fresh and free from grizzly microbes.
Throw away a product if you believe it has gone off.

Other additives and ingredients benefits

So far, during the course we have looked at a range of functional ingredients that are
required to enable a makeup product to work properly and feel good. We still have a few to
go so let us discuss these here and learn about why we might consider including them.

Ingredient Name

INCI label name

Function / benefit

Cyclomethicone

Cyclomethicone

Gives fabulous glide across the skin.

Imparts a silky, powdery feel on the skin.
Goes on as a liquid but dries quickly
leaving no greasy or sticky residue. Key
ingredient in a primer

Iso Propyl Myristate

Iso Propyl Myristate

Derived from the fatty myristic acid

found in oils such as coconut oil, iso
propyl myristate will impart a silky feel
on the skin whilst moisturising. Dries
leaving no sticky or oily residue. A very
useful ingredient in a primer

Olive squalane

Squalane

Derived from olives, this very nourishing

clear liquid penetrates the skin well.
Stuffed full of anti-ageing, anti-oxidant
properties whilst being light and silky.
Glides across the skin leaving a slightly
dewy residue

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Ingredient Name

INCI label name

Function / benefit

Melon seed oil

Momordica Charantia
(Melon Seed) Oil

A wonderfully nourishing oil that

penetrates the skin well. Melon seed oil
is absorbed quickly and thoroughly
leaving no oily residue. Melon seed oil is
healing, protecting and gentle and a
good source of vitamin C

Rice bran oil

Oryza sativa (Rice) Bran

Oil

An extremely nourishing oil rich in

vitamin E. Rice bran oil will condition
the skin and help treat any inflamed
areas. It is antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and
skin softening

Rosehip oil

Rosa Canina (Fruit) Oil

Rosehip is a healing oil rich in vitamin A.

It helps reduce the signs of scarring and
will encourage new skin grown whilst
repairing damaged tissue

Avocado oil

Persea Gratissima
(Avocado) Oil

Avocado oil is a light oil that penetrates

the skin well leaving no traces of oil on
the surface. Avocado oil has anti wrinkle
and skin soothing properties and it
actively encourages new skin cell
regeneration. It is rich in vitamins A, B1,
B2, B5, D & E and is known for its healing
abilities

Rose water

Rosa Damascena (Rose)

Flower Distillate

As with all floral waters, rose water is a

by-product of essential oil production via
the steam distillation method. Rose
water has a subtle, pleasant aroma and
will help to skin hydrated. Rose water
will help to calm any red patches and
treat broken capillaries

Essential oil

various

Essential oils are potent active

ingredients and only one or two drops
can make a big difference in treating a
skin complaint. Essential oils have a
strong aroma and will perfume your
makeup products.
See the chart below for suitable
essential oils and their properties

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Essential oils, skin suitability and benefits

Carrot seed
All skin types

Daucus Carrota

Rejuvenating effect, smoothes and softens

Cedarwood
Oily skin

Cedrus Atlantica

Brings relief to itchy skin and helps balance oily skin

Chamomile
(Roman)
Dry, sensitive skin

Anthemis Nobilis

Very soothing for dry skin and rashes

Frankincense
Mature, dry skin

Boswellia Carterii

Reduces oil production, marvellous skin rejuvenator for

more mature skin. Soothing and healing

Geranium
Combination skin

Pelargonium
Graveolens

A well rounded essential suitable for both oily and dry

skins. Soothes insect bites as well as burns and sores.
Geranium also helps to reduce bruising and improves
blood circulation

Lavender
All skin types

Lavandula
Angustifolia

Helps treat wounds and burns and will speed up the

healing process. Said to help with scar reduction.
Fabulous at cooling sun and windburn and will sooth
itchy skin

Neroli
Mature skin

Citrus Aurantium

Great for broken veins and stretch marks. Helps

stimulate cell renewal and therefore regenerates skin

Patchouli
All skin types,
problem skin

Pogostemon
cablin

Helps to renew and regenerate skin tissue and cells.

Fights infection and fungal infections. A great all
purpose skincare treatment

Rose
Dry skin

Rosa Damascena /
Rose Otto

Fabulously rehydrating and moisturising especially for

dry and sensitive skin. Reduces redness and
inflammation

Sandalwood
Dry skin

Santalum Album

Very rehydrating and superb for treating dry and

chapped skin. Also useful in balancing oily skin

Tea Tree
Problem skin

Melaleuca
Alternifoli

Known for its antiseptic qualities, tea tree can be used to

treat wounds, spots, pimples, rashes and infections

Ylang Ylang
All skin types

Cananga Odorata

Helps balance the secretion of sebum and will help both

dry and oily skin types

Essential oils should be added at levels of 0.5% or less. This equates to a maximum of 15
drops per 100g / 100ml of ingredients.

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My personal recommendation is to start by adding one or two drops only and decide
whether that is sufficient in terms of aroma. It only takes a couple of drops to make a
difference in terms of active properties ie. how it will affect your skin.

Facial makeup products

Whilst we wear colours on our lips and eyes, the main area of our face cheeks, forehead,
nose and chin are made up with products that match our natural skin tone as closely as
possible.
Blending colours to match different skin tones
Different skin tones can be made using a
blend of red, yellow, black and white. Red
and yellow can be mixed to get the basic
colour and then lightened using white and
darkened using black.
Before you embark on blending your
colours, let me just take you to the
cosmetics counter to choose a foundation.
You have many decisions to make. Once
you have decided what brand and style of
foundation you want to buy, you then have
the fun of finding the perfect colour match.
And that is the part that many of us find the
hardest......and if we find it hard to choose
from the skin tones on offer, then imagine
how hard your making cosmetics task
might be actually blending those colours!
Foundation
When blending colours for foundation you have the added complexities of using oxides to
obtain a matt finish rather than micas which may be too shimmery for the entire face area.
Oxides need to be crushed so that you dont end up with
streaks.
When blending skin tones, start with red oxide and yellow
oxide and crush these together to form a non-streaking
browny orange. Now adjust the browny orange with
titanium dioxide or zinc (both of which will help to lighten
the browny orange colour as well as offer sun protection)
or add black oxide to darken the colour.

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Add a little colour at a time then blend/crush/blend/crush to break down the powders into
finer particles and to allow the colours to blend together to form a skin tone.
When you feel you may have got the colour you are aiming for, add it to your chosen
medium (a powdered mineral makeup base of talc, cornflour, magnesium stearate as
described in module 2 and later in this section) or to a liquid makeup base as described later
in this section. Test a little on your skin if you are at home you can test it straight onto
your face, the perfect way to see if it is too dark, too light or absolutely perfect! Take a little
of your foundation and apply it to your jaw line. Check how it blends into your skin in
different lights so walk over to the window with your mirror as well as checking in the
mirror in a less well-lit area of the room.
Adjust the colour by adding more crushed colour as necessary remember to always add a
little at a time.
If you have scales that measure in tiny quantities or are using tiny spoons, please make sure
you keep a record of the colours as you add them. This will make it much easier for you to
repeat the exact same colour when you need to make more of the product.
Applying foundation with a brush or sponge gives you a better finish than applying it with
your (clean) fingers. Using a brush or a sponge will help you get into the crevasses down the
side of your nose.
Bobbi Browns website has an informative video showing you how best to apply your
makeup - www.bobbibrown.co.uk/cms/learn/video/how_to_face.tmpl?cm_re=FOOTER-_TOUT1-_-10Step
Check out the Bare Essentials site just one of many mineral makeup sites for you to
investigate. They give you information on how to apply your makeup, tips and tricks to get
you started and a breakdown of the ingredients and individual colours used in their
products.
Primers
A primer is put onto your face before you apply your foundation. Ideally you should apply it
10 minutes before you apply your foundation. The role of a primer is to smooth out uneven
skin tone, prevent your foundation from being absorbed into your skin and prevent your
foundation from wearing off during the day.
A primer contains ingredients such as silicones and squalane which help set your foundation
giving it longevity on the skin. They can also help to plump up skin temporarily preventing
your powdered makeup from forming creases.
Different areas of the face may require different primers depending on the skin type and
condition. Primers can be applied to the delicate eye area, the cheek/chin area and the lips
before applying makeup.

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Primers applied to the lips tend to be matt and a little drier than primers applied to skin. Lip
primers prepare the lips for lipstick and lip gloss and help to keep the product stay on the
lips longer and reduce the chances of the lip products bleeding.
Some face primers are coloured and have the function of colouring your skin too. My
preference is to have a colourless primer and a coloured foundation.
Concealers
Concealers are similar to foundation in that they provide cover, but they are designed to
have better coverage and are therefore useful for disguising dark circles under the eyes,
hiding spots and other skin blemishes. They typically take the format of a stick, but can also
be a cream or liquid.
A concealer should either match your skin tone or be a very tiny bit lighter. It is applied
before you apply your foundation, so the foundation is applied over the concealer.
If you are using a concealer to hide broken or thread veins, broken capillaries, red blotches,
or a birthmark, you should add a little green chromium oxide to the concealer as this will
help to diminish the red areas.

Recipes primer, foundation and concealer

Smooth and sophisticated face base skin primer

Ingredients
10ml cyclomethicone
1ml vitamin e
3ml fractionated coconut oil
4ml olive squalane
Optional
2 drops carrot seed essential oil (or other suitable essential oil)
1 drop ylang ylang essential oil (or other suitable essential oil)
Method
Place all the ingredients into the pump or serum bottle and give the bottle a good shake.
Label the bottle so that you can identify the contents.
Container: airless pump, serum bottle

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Application: massage two or three drops to skin with clean fingers. Wait ten minutes
before applying moisturiser and foundation.
Shelf life: 12 months

Natural look foundation

Ingredients
Powder base
0.5g magnesium stearate
1.5g talc / kaolin
1g cornflour
0.5g zinc oxide
0.5g pearl mica
1 tiny white spoonful gold mica
0.2g (a large pinch) potato starch
Oil base
a few drops of jojoba oil OR rice bran oil OR melon seed oil
2 drops ylang ylang essential oil (optional)
Colours
Oxides : Red, yellow, black, white oxide powder colours
Ultramarine : Blue
Honey beige
1 tiny white spoonful red oxide
2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide
1 pinch blue ultramarine (approximately tiny white spoon)
tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Titanium dioxide (optional to lighten the colour if above blend is too dark for skin tone)
Mocha almond
tiny white spoonful red oxide
1 tiny white spoonful yellow oxide
1 pinch blue ultramarine (approximately tiny white spoon)
1 tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Titanium dioxide (optional to lighten the colour if above blend is too dark for skin tone)

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Method
Mix all the ingredients in the powder base together in a small bowl. Add the jojoba (or rice
bran or melon seed) oil and mix again until fully absorbed.
Add the drops of essential oil (if using) and mix thoroughly.
A separate bowl, grind and crush the colours until they are thoroughly blended. Adjust the
colour by adding more black oxide or titanium dioxide as necessary. Perform a streak test
on a piece of paper or on the back of your hand. If streaking occurs continue to crush and
grind the colours until no streaking occurs.
Carefully add the crushed coloured powders to the powder/oil bases a little at a time until
they are thoroughly blended.
Put in suitable container and label.
Container: sifter container
Application: apply with suitable foundation brush such as kabuki brush
Shelf life: 24 months

Fresh look powder foundation

Ingredients
Oil Phase
5ml fractionated coconut oil
5ml avocado oil
5g emulsifying wax
Water Phase
35ml spring water
3ml glycerine
5ml cyclomethicone
Powder Phase
0.5g magnesium stearate
1.5g talc / kaolin
1g cornflour
0.2g (a large pinch, 1/3rd teaspoon) potato starch
Other
0.5ml preservative

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Powder colours
Oxides: Red, yellow, white, black
Mica: Gold
Warmed taupe
1 tiny white spoonful red oxide
2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide
tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Sweet ebony
tiny white spoonful red oxide
tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide
1 pinch blue ultramarine
1 tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)
Method
Weigh the ingredients and place the ingredients for the oil phase in a heat-proof jug or bowl
and place the jug/bowl in a pan of simmering water.
Place the ingredients for the water phase in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl
in a pan of simmering water.
While these are warming/melting slowly, prepare your powder base as described in the
powder foundation recipe. Grind and blend and then add the colour as required. Do not
grind the mica, add this last once your grinding and crushing are complete.
Once the e-wax has melted, remove both the jugs/bowls from the heat and pour the waters
into the oils jug/bowl. Stir gently for at least one minute, longer if possible. After the initial
stirring, put the jug/bowl to one side and stir again every minute or so.
If the mixture starts to separate, stir a little faster than you have been to incorporate the oils
and waters. If this fails and the mixture still separates, place the jug/bowl back into the
simmering water and stir until the mixture blends together again. Remove from the heat
and stir gently until the mixture cools down (repeat if the mixture separates again). If it
continues to separate, add another 1 or 2g e-wax and melt the wax into the mixture.
As the mixture cools, it will become slightly thicker and more viscuous. Once the mixture has
cooled to tepid add the preservative and stir thoroughly.
Add half the coloured powder base and stir again. Make sure there is no powder base
lurking at the bottom of the jug/bowl. Continue to stir until all the colour has been
thoroughly combined. This may be sufficient colouring, in which case your foundation just
needs to be put into containers. If you would like slightly more coverage, continue to add
the coloured power base until you have a more opaque product.

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Making Mineral Makeup

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Plush Folly Ltd

Adjust the colour if necessary until you have the shade required. Once the mixture is cold,
place it into the container. Label the container.
Alternatively add to a small bottle, adjust the remaining colour and add to a second bottle.
Adjust the remaining colour and add to a third bottle. Making several slightly different
colours allows you to test the foundation colours for different skin shades.
To change the consistency, add more e-wax (to make it thicker) or a little more water (to
make it runnier).
Container: airless pump, lidded jar or bottle
Application: apply with clean fingers or makeup sponge
Shelf life: 9 months

Brighter complexion, creamy foundation

Ingredients
Creamy base
8ml fractionated coconut oil
1ml vitamin E oil
2ml rice bran oil
2g beeswax
1g rice bran wax
Powder base
1 teaspoon talc
teaspoon cornflour
teaspoon magnesium stearate
Powder colours
Oxides: Red, yellow, white, black
Mica: Gold, pearl mica
Golden glow
tiny white spoonful gold mica
1 small blue spoonful pearl mica
1 tiny white spoonful red oxide
2 tiny white spoonfuls yellow oxide
tiny white spoonful black oxide (more if you wish to have a darker shade)

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Making Mineral Makeup

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Plush Folly Ltd

Method
Powder colours - place the powders and the oxide colours into a small dish or ramekin and
blend until all the powders are thoroughly mixed together without any streaking. Add the
micas and stir well.
Creamy base place the waxes and oils (NOT the vitamin E oil) into a small heatproof jug or
bowl and place over a heat source until melted. Remove from the heat and stir well. Add
the vitamin E oil.
Add the powder colours and mix well until thoroughly incorporated.
Place into a container and label.
Container: Screw top jar
Application: apply with clean fingers or makeup sponge
Shelf life: 12 months

Easy over bling shimmer

Ingredients
1 teaspoon talc
teaspoon cornflour
teaspoon magnesium stearate
1 teaspoon gold mica
Method
Place all the ingredients into a small dish or ramekin and blend until all the powders are
thoroughly mixed together.
Place into a container and label.
Container: sifter container or lidded pot
Application: apply with suitable makeup brush
Shelf life: 18 months

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Making Mineral Makeup

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Plush Folly Ltd

Hide for cover concealer stick

A dual function concealer stick this one covers and treats as it has healing vitamin rich
rosehip oil, hydrating, skin softening, antioxidant rice bran oil and anti-aging, antioxidant
olive squalane.
Ingredients
Oils/wax
4ml rosehip oil
7ml rice bran oil
5ml olive squalane
8g beeswax
Powders
0.5g magnesium stearate
0.5g kaolin clay
1g talc
0.5g zinc oxide
0.5g cornflour
Colours
Oxides: Red, yellow, black, white
Make this one shade lighter than your own skin colour.
Method
Place oils/wax ingredients in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of
simmering water. Allow the wax to melt, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile mix the powders together in a small bowl and add the colours to match one
shade lighter than your skin tone. Grind and crush the oxides as usual until you are sure no
streaking will occur.
Add the powder / colours to the melted oils/wax mixture and stir so that they are
thoroughly mixed in.
Your ingredients may try to set hard before you are ready. If this is the case, place the
container back into the saucepan to re-melt.
Pour the melted coloured mixture into the twist up container and leave to set before
putting the lid onto the container.
To make this even more beneficial, you could consider adding a couple of drops of a suitable
essential oil. Do bear in mind that essential oils will add a mild aroma to your concealer.

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Making Mineral Makeup

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Plush Folly Ltd

Container: twist up stick or small lidded pot

Application: apply directly to skin from container or via clean fingers if using to cover a
pimple
Shelf life: 18 months

Creamy concealer for tired eyes

Ingredients
Oils/wax
8ml fractionated coconut oil
5ml jojoba oil
2ml cyclomethicone
4g beeswax
Powders
0.5g magnesium stearate
1.5g talc
0.5g pearl mica
0.5g cornflour
Colours
Oxides: Red, yellow, black, white, green
Make this one shade lighter than your own skin colour.
Method
Place oils/wax ingredients in a heat-proof jug or bowl and place the jug/bowl in a pan of
simmering water. Allow the wax to melt, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile mix the powders EXCEPT FOR THE PEARL MICA together in a small bowl and add
the colours to match one shade lighter than your skin tone. Grind and crush the oxides as
usual until you are sure no streaking will occur.
Add the pearl mica and then add the powders / colours to the melted oils/wax mixture and
stir so that they are thoroughly mixed in.
Your ingredients may try to set before you are ready. If this is the case, place the container
back into the saucepan to re-melt.

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Making Mineral Makeup

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Plush Folly Ltd

Pour the mixture into the screw top container and leave to set before putting the lid onto
the container.
To apply, dab a little around the eye area and gently blend over dark circles. Apply regular
foundation over the top.
Container: screw top lid
Application: apply to skin using clean finger
Shelf life: 18 months

Thats it! You are now armed with the knowledge and skills to make a huge variety of
makeup products. Enjoy experimenting, blending colours and modifying the recipes in this
course to suit.

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