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CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES OF DHERMI

Dhrmi is a quaint coastal village, home to 31 churches


and monasteries and is a favorite summer retreat for
many of Tiranas international community. Park carefully
on the roadsides in Dhermi, and begin the steep 15minute climb from the National Road to Saint Mary
Church and P
anais Monastery
Panais
Monastery, a basilica with a
Byzantine-style wooden and tiled dome with a single
nave. An old church, with a Byzantine-style dome
dating back to the 14 th century, serves as the
communion area. The Archbishop Ioannis of Himara
and Delvina commissioned frescos to decorate the

church in 1781. The Church of Ipapandia is situated


very close to the beach and can be reached via a 5minute drive on secondary roads. Exhibiting typical
features of the mid-14th century churches on the Albanian
coast, the Church of Ipapandia has a large, semi-circular
shaped atrium, which is divided by the narthex. The
narthex features two entrances and a stone iconostas,
the screen or wall dividing the sanctuary from the nave
in traditional Orthodox and Catholic churches. Another
interesting characteristic of the church is the high,
elegant bell tower erected on the western facade.
Admission is free to both churches, although a small
donation for their upkeep is encouraged.
MONASTERY OF SAINT THEODORE
(Approx.5 km south from Dhermi approx. 25 minutes
on the Vlora-Saranda National Road and dirt roads)
From Dhermi, head south the second village you pass
will be the village of Gjipe. Gjipe, a former Albanian
military outpost, is home to the Monastery of Saint
Theodore
Theodore. The monastery was originally built in the
14th century, but was not finished until nearly 500 years
later in 1860, with construction funded by contributions
from other neighboring monasteries. Follow signs from
the main road to Gjipe beach, a beautiful and clean
beach hidden inside the narrow neck of Gjipe Canyon.
Part of the descent will be on foot on narrow, rocky
paths; extreme caution should be exercised when
descending or ascending these paths to the beach.
Admission is free to the monastery, though a small
donation for its upkeep is encouraged.
HIMARA
S CA
STLE AND CHURCHES
HIMARAS
CASTLE
(13 km south from Gjipe approx. 35 minutes on the
Vlora-Saranda National Road)
Continuing south along the National Road to the ancient
city of Himara, take advantage of the natural beauty for
a roadside picnic or photography on this untouched
stretch of Albanian coastline. Upon arrival, one may
visit the 5th century B.C. Castle of Himara
Himara, positioned
prominently on the hill above the city which it once

protected. Driving south from Gjipe, it is advised to park


the vehicle in upper Himara, upon first entering the city
as it is closer to the castle. Continue on foot to the castle,
paying attention to the slippery rocks underfoot. A longtime stronghold of the local population, the castle was
occupied until the 16th century A.D. and contains a number
of houses and churches of the post-Byzantine period.
Perhaps the most beautiful church within the walls is the
Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus
Bacchus, overlooking
Himara and the Ionian Sea. Also known as the Church of
All Saints, this former
seat of the archbishopric
of Himara showcases
church walls preserving
its multiple phases of
construction, part of
them being built on top
of earlier walls. Original
construction is thought
to have occurred
towards the end of the
10 th century. After
enjoying this peaceful
spot amongst the citrus
and olive trees, continue
on to lower Himara and
its beaches, where most
of the towns hotels and
restaurants are located.
Himara castle and its
churches charge no
admission.
LUNCH IN THE ANCIENT CITY OF HIMARA
Inhabited for thousands of years, Himaras earliest known
occupants were of the Illyrian Chaonians tribe. In the 5th
century B.C., Himara was known by the name of Chimera
and in the 9th-10th centuries chronicles mention it as an
Episcopal center under the Ohrid Archdiocese. Today
Himara is the largest town between Vlora and Saranda,
a beautiful coastal town by the Ioanian sea. The citys
main earner is tourism, and visitors should have little

difficulty in locating a simple, yet well-maintained


restaurant or caf to dine in. As a seaside town,
visitors are encouraged to try the local catch of the
day: sea bass (levrek), snapper (koce), or red mullet
(barbun), served either fried (skuqur) or grilled
(zgare). Fried potatoes and a variety of salads make
for great accompaniments, served family-style with
homemade local wines.
CHURCH OF SAINT MARY OF
VA
KREMOSO
KREMOSOV
(24 km south from Himara approx. 60 minutes on
the Vlora-Saranda National Road)
From Himara, continue south along the National
Road towards the Monastery of Kremosova, situated
on a hill overlooking the village of Piqeras, on the
left side of the National Road. A 30-minute walk is
necessary to reach the church. The Church of
Saint Mary of Kremosova dates back to 1672,
and is preserved in the center of monastic ruins. The
church is a basilica with three naves. It features a
cupola poised over a high cylindrical roof at the
center of the hall and a two-story narthex on its
west wing. From the narthex there was a direct
passage to the residence halls of the monastery. These
collapsed at the beginning of the 20th century, when
the church also had some lateral walls damaged.
Some time later, the inhabitants built supportive
walls and therefore avoided the church becoming
destroyed entirely. Admission to the church is free
and visitors are encouraged to walk carefully on the
paths leading to the ruins.

MONASTERIES OF SAINT MARY


(Turn off from National Road is 22 km south of Piqeras
approx. 45 minutes)
Before ending your tour in the seaside resort town of
Saranda, watch the sun set at the highly recommended
Church and Monastery of Saint Mary at
Kakome
Kakome. Located in the Bay of Kakome, head south
from Piqeras until you see signs for Kakome beach.
Follow the signs by turning right towards the sea,
traveling an additional 20 minutes (7 km) to the
monastery. This is a fortified monastery, comprised of
residential buildings situated in the two corners of the
courtyard, and the church dedicated to Saint Mary in
the center. The nave is cross-shaped and the church
has a dome-shaped roof. The nave is preceded by an
arched narthex, at the front of which is a bell tower.
The frescoes of the church were produced by a painter
named Mihal, according to a 1672 inscription inside
the church.
A visit also to the nearby Church and Monastery
of Saint Mary at Krorz-Nivica is also
recommended. This monastery is situated about 2 km
northwest of the Church and Monastery of Saint Mary
of Kakome. The floor plan of the Church of Saint Mary
at Krorz-Nivica resembles a cross with a cupola and
is similar to other Byzantine churches found in the area.
The roof of the church is covered with stone slabs and
the church itself dates to the post Byzantine period,
with frescoes painted in 1672. Admission is free to
both churches though a small donation is encouraged
for their upkeep, if possible.

FINE DINING IN THE SEASIDE RESORT


TOWN OF SARANDA
(12 km south from the Kakome Beach sign
approx. 15 minutes)
Continue on from the monasteries of Saint Mary
for dinner and overnight in Saranda, Albanias
southern-most city and a primary entry-point for
visitors arriving from the Greek island of Corfu,
five miles away. With its lively Mediterranean
atmosphere, Saranda has something to offer all
visitors, from high-end hotels and dynamic
discotheques, to ancient ruins and peaceful
beaches. Travelers will find little difficulty locating
a place to stay, although rooms may be harder to
come by during the summer high season in July
and August. Influenced by Greek, Italian and Turkish
cuisines, Sarandas culinary traditions are wellknown amongst Albanians. Fresh seafood is
abundant, as well as recipes from the surrounding
areas pastoral traditions, such as roasted lamb,
pastry pies (byrek), and stews. Local wines and
homemade brandy (raki) will help finish off any
course as visitors to Saranda take advantage of the
scenic setting to watch the sun set over nearby
Corfu.
For more Information:
www.albaniantourism.com
www.tirana-airport.com.al; www.bashkiavlore.org;
www.himara.eu; www.saranda-guide.com
Celesi Tourist Guides; e-mail: opinion@celesi.com
Car Rental Companies: Sixt; EuropCar; AVIS; HERTZ

This itinerary will allow travelers to visit a


series of churches and monasteries from
Albanias millennia-long history. All stops on
this itinerary feature well-preserved
structures, many of which are decorated
with original frescoes from the 17th century.
From short stops along your journey to
those that are well off the beaten path,
this itinerary offers all visitors a chance to
glimpse inside Albanias Byzantine and postByzantine religious history.

Please note that travel and visitation times


are approximate and may vary depending on
the season, weather, and/or vehicle used. As
of January 2008, the Vlora-Saranda National
Road has only been improved as far south
as the village of Dhermi. Travelers should be
cautioned that the road is in the process of
being improved and road construction may
delay their journeys. Travelers are advised
to travel these segments by daylight if the
driver is unfamiliar with these winding,
secondary roads. Public transportation will
only provide access to locations on the main
Vlora-Saranda National Road; private
transportation is recommended. Walking
shoes in good condition are also advised. No
sites on this itinerary are handicapped
accessible.

Integrated Coastal Zone


Management and Clean Up Project

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