Beaching and Dyeing hair

Composition

1. Chemically the hair is mainly based on different chains amino acids that form proteins. Hair is
called dead because there is no biochemical activity in the hair so it is called dead. The main
component protein keratin as well as the lesser component melanin is produced from these amino
acids. Keratin is the main component of hair it makes up around eighty percent of the hair. Being
a protein it is composed of amino acids. 18 amino acids are used to form keratin through peptide
bonds; in a line. Each strand of keratin wants to form with three more strands of itself. Through
three types of bonds (salt, hydrogen and disulphide) the strands of keratin form an even larger
molecule of keratin. The salt bond is the responsible for around a third of the hairs strength and
elasticity. The hydrogen bond is responsible for the other one third of elasticity and strength. The
disulphide bond is what is responsible for the hairs toughness and frictional resistance. Since it
holds hair filaments together it can cause the hair to be straight or curly depending on the bonds
strength. Keratin in end is responsible for the strength of the hair. It allows for the hair to stretch
and move without breaking. The next amino acid derived protein is melanin. Melanin is
responsible for colour. A type of melanin called eumelanin is pigmented either brown black or a
combination of the two. Phaeomelanin is responsible for lighter hair colours. It is red in pigment
and works in combomation of eumelanin. The ratio of the two will determine the colour of the
hair. Other things such as lipids, water and minerals are also present in the hair. The lipids in the
hair make it shiny as well as make the hair flexible and stretchy to some extent. The water in the
hair promotes normal and healthy hair growth; it also is used in some bonding of amino acids.
Water bonds in the keratin allow for it to absorb water as well.
Structurally the hair strand itself is made of three main layers: cuticle cortex and medulla. The
inner layer of the medulla is composed of the keratin chains that are formed from the amino
acids. Space or gaps are left in-between the structure to apps the ability to stretch. The middle
layer of the is a layer of melanin and keratin that provides protections to the hair. It is also
responsible for the strength of the hair. The outer layers of the hair or cuticle is composed of cells
that have been bonded with keratin. They are in a scale like shape and act like plating to protect
the inside of the hair.
2.

Acids oxidise the melanin in the hair. The acids in these substance such as vinegar penetrate the
hair cuticle and go to the cortex of the strand. One of two things can happen. One, the chain

between the amino acids forming the melanin is weakened and eventually is broken apart. The
melanin being farther apart. The melanin being farther appears lighter. Two, what can happen
instead is that the melanin, loses bonds with the pigments and the pigments of the melanin are
eventually dissolved. This leaves the molecule blank and pigmentless. The acid attacks eumelanin
more than phaeomelanin. The hair appears lighter because there is less of the darker pigment, the
residual pigment being lighter and now more abundant seems more dominant.

3. Permanent hair colour must be chemically treated before the colour can be added to the hair.
Chemically ammonia opens the cuticle by weakening the bonds. It denatures the keratin protein
because of the high basic nature of ammonia. Once the cuticle is open usually peroxide is used to
oxygenate the melanin. This destroys and removes the pigmentation because melanin.
Oxidisation breaks the bonds of different atoms depending on the type of melanin. It lightens the
hair so that way by having more phaeomelanin we can darken the hair to the right shade. If the
hair has too much eumelonin the hair the hair is too dark and no real difference in colour can be
made other than darker than the original colour. Once the hair is free of most eumelonin. The
colorant is added to the lightened hair. The molecules of the colour pigments enter the hair and
are absorbed into the cortex of the hair. Paradiaminobenzenes is an example of a synthetic hair
dye. The dye reacts to oxygen where it gains its colour. Since [peroxide was added prior to the
dye it reacts and is oxidised. Once the colour has set in the dye usually bonds to one another
expanding in size. This is so that the colour cannot fit out of the hair cuticle of the hair. Once the
process is done the person has their original melanin as well as the artificial colorant now
together in the cortex of the hair. The reason hair smells is because the peroxide bonds with the
sulphur in the hair. As the peroxide enters the hair it breaks the disulphide bonds of the keratin
strands. The suplher from this bond forms with the O2 from the peroxide. These then form
sulphur dioxide. Sulpher dioxide has a pungent smell and this is why the hair colour process
produces odour.

Resources
Loreal Hair Science, Loreal, March 31, 2009.
http://www.hair-science.com/_int/_en/topic/topic_sousrub.aspx?tc=root-hair-science^portrait-of-anunknown-element^superb-chemistry&cur=superb-chemistry
Hair Science37, Hairsceince.inc, 2010.
http://www.hairformula37.com/chemistry.htm
Hilda Sustatia, A Close look at the properties of hair, Houston community college.
http://www.texascollaborative.org/hildasustaita/module%20files/topic3.htm
THE JOURNAL OF Biological CHEMISTRY,1990, The American Society for Biochemistry and
Molecular Biology, Inc, Witold Korytowski and Tadeusz Sarna.
http://www.jbc.org/content/265/21/12410.full.pdf
Brain, Marshall. "HowStuffWorks "How Hair Coloring Works"" HowStuffWorks "Science" How Stuff
Works, 2005. Web. 14 Oct. 2011. http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/everydayinnovations/hair-coloring3.htm
Cuba, Cecelia. "The Chemistry of Hair Highlights." Science Fair Project Ideas, Answers, & Tools.
Andrew Olson, Mar.-Apr. 2007. Web. 14 Oct. 2011. http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fairprojects/project_ideas/Chem_p020.shtml