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Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

PAGE

PLAN
YOUR TRIP

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions


to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to

Munich,
Bavaria

& the Black Forest

Southern Comfort

COUNTRY
UNTRY
TRY & CI
CITY
TY
Y
The original
p
Comprehensive
Adventurous
Adventu

Alpine Air &


Munich Flair

The Germans have a word, Gemtlichkeit,


that untranslatable blend of cosiness, wellbeing and a laid-back attitude. Nowhere
does this mood permeate deeper than in
the prosperous
south where fairy-lit beer
7
gardens, Alpine views, medieval towns,
rousing hilltop castles and many a redfaced village brass band awaits you. But
theres another facet to Gemtlichkeit: its
also a marble-smooth autobahn of luxury
cars speeding to gourmet restaurants and
chic Alpine spas, Munichs high-brow cultural scene robed in black, and cappuccinos at dawn on intercity expresses. The
two southern Germanys coexist, an incongruous mix packed with the unexpected.

10

MARTIN SIEPMANN/IMAGEBROKER

Bavaria is denitely a place for those who


prefer their air fresh rather than freshened. Though the Alps only tickle Germanys underbelly, locals know how to get
the most out of their peaks, stringing cable cars up the vertical reality of the Alps;
marking out entire atlases of cycling, hiking and cross-country skiing trails; even
running a train up the inside of the Zugspitze, Germanys highest mountain. Yet all
this is just a short ride from the urban joie
de vivre of Munich, a sexy, sophisticated
and self-condent city with a nonchalant,
almost Mediterranean feel.

CRAIG PERSHOUSE/GETTY IMAGES

PAUL BEINSSEN/GETTY IMAGES

Welcome to Munich, Bavaria


& the Black Forest .......
2
Map ..................................
4
10 Top Experiances ........
6
Need To Know.................
12
First Time ........................
14
Whats New .....................
16
If You Like ........................
17
Month by Month ............. 20
Oktoberfest ....................
22
Itineraries ........................
27
Outdoor Activities ..........
31
Travel with Children .......
36
Regions at a Glance .......
38

Get the right guides for your trip

14

First
Time
f irst
time

Everyone needs a helping hand Romantic Road


when they visit a country for
As roads go, Western
Romantic
the first time. There are phrases RoadBavarias
(p126) is something
to learn, customs to get used to pretty special a 350kmlong ribbon of higgledyand etiquette to understand.
piggledy walled towns
The following section will help and soothing countryside.
However, its not all medieval
demystify southern Germany so quaintness; the route passes
your first trip goes as smoothly blockbuster Harburg castle,
the Unesco-listed baroque
as your fifth.
Wieskirche and Ludwig IIs

Language

What to

Its just about possible to get by in Germanys south without speak- Pack
ing any German whatsoever, but learning a few simple words and
Passport
phrases will pay dividends in all kinds of situations from the restaurant table to the booking office. In big cities, such as Munich and Credit/debit cards
Nuremberg, English is spoken by those who come into regular con- Driving licence
tact with foreigners, but this may not be the case in rural locations.

Schloss Neuschwanstein.
Yes, its tourist-clogged, and
yes, the renovation can be
more Technicolor than Teutonic, but come in the snow,
stroll after the tourist buses
depart or tackle the route by
bike, and the Romantic Road
begins to live up to its name.
Marktplatz, Rothenburg

Baden-Baden

Some 2000 years ago


the Romans raved about
baden (bathing) in BadenBadens therapeutic waters
(p235), and the spring-fed
town still hasnt lost its
touch. Royalty and celebrities
from Queen Victoria to Victoria Beckham have put this
classy Black Forest spa town
on the global map, but its
merits speak for themselves.
Nestled smugly at the foot of
thickly wooded hills, this is
a good-looking, good-living
town of pristine belle poque
villas and sculpture-strewn
gardens, cupola-crowned
spas, and ritzy boutiques,
cafes and restaurants.
Bavarian health spa

Salzburg

At times Salzburg (p185)


can feel like a Hollywood
lm set, with its theatrical
alpine backdrop, exuberant
baroque architecture, and
Mozart and Maria everywhere. But heres the good
news: its real. History seeps
through the Altstadts maze
of narrow lanes, crowned by
a formidable fortress and
sprinkled with churches and
abbeys. Pathways thread
along river banks and cli
ridges, allowing you to survey
the city from every photogenic angle. By night, locals
pour into palatial concert
halls for chamber concerts,
and chestnut-canopied beer
gardens for monastic brews.
Schloss Hellbrunn

Prescription
medicines

Earplugs

I would like to book a room.

Ich mchte bitte ein


Zimmer reservieren.

a single room

ein Einzelzimmer

Spare glasses
Hiking boots
Camera

POCKET
POCKET
&
ENCOUNTER
Pocket-sized
Pocket-sized
Easy-to-use
Easy-to-use
Highlights
Highlights

PHRASEBOOK

DISCOVER
DISC
COVER
ER
R
Best-of
Photo-packed
Inspirational

Mobile phone
charger

Booking Ahead

Booking a room in a foreign language can be a daunting task, so


here are some phrases to see you through a call to the place youd European plug
adaptor
like to stay.

Looking for other travel resources?


PAGE

275

UNDERSTAND

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

MUNICH, BAVARIA
& THE BLACK FOREST

Munich, Bavaria & the


Black Forest Today ......
History .............................
Bavarian Culture
& Traditions ..................
Food & Drink ...................
Landscapes & Wildlife ...

Learn about the big picture, so you


can make sense of what you see

276
278

population per sq km
BADENWURRTEMBERG

BAVARIA

GERMANY

180 people

288
296
302

Munich, Bavaria &


the Black Forest Today
Its the Economy, Stupid!

History

Facts:
nich &
varia
70,549

One of Europes oldest states, with origins dating back to the 6th century,
its safe to say that Bavaria, Germanys largest and southernmost Land,
has enjoyed a long and eventful past, one populated by a weird-and-wunderbarr cast of oddball kings, scandalous courtesans and infamous Nazis.
However, the Bavaria of today is a relatively new territorial entity, its
three distinct tribes the Bajuwaren (Bavarians), the Franken (Franconians) and the Schwaben (Swabians) each having developed quite separately until thrown in together by Napoleon as the Kingdom of Bavaria
in 1806. Munich was founded in 1158 by Duke Heinrich der Lwe (Henry
the Lion), granted town rights in 1175 and declared capital of Bavaria in
1506. Although never really at the centre of European power, Bavaria was
a key player in continental politics for centuries. Governed by the same
family, the colourful Wittelsbachs, for over 700 years, it was able to form
a distinct culture that continues to shape its image and identity to this
day. The most famous member of the House of Wittelsbach was King
Ludwig II, who frittered away the family silver on blockbuster castles,
thus creating Bavarias modern tourist industry.
Of course Bavaria of the 20th century is synonymous with the rise of
Hitler and the Nazis who found fertile ground for their ideas in the workin class neighbourhoods of Munich and Nuremberg. The area is littered
with reminders of those stormy decades when mass rallies were held
in Nuremberg, and Dachau became the Nazis first concentration cam .

ation: 12.6
446
apita
2650
nth
ollar),

Even the most militant anti-capitalist might shut down Facebook and
blow out the Molotov, just for a moment, to agree that Bavaria is a rampant success story of post-war free enterprise. Just one stat says it all if
Bavaria was an independent country (and not a small number of locals
secretly wish it were), its economy would be the worlds 19th largest
(equally affluent Baden-Wrttemberg would rank around 22nd), bigger
than Sweden or Austria and more than twice the size of neighbouring
Czech Republic. Germanys economic California is cooking with gas, and
probably on an eco-friendly stove of sturdy design, proudly stamped with
Hergestellt in Bayern (Made in Bavaria). Even as it looked as though
Germanys economy was losing momentum in late 2012, Bavaria and the
rest of southern Germany still seemed like a pretty good investment.
So what underpins the souths economic triumph? Good ole manufacturing seems to be the secret, with a motor industry second to none
leading the way The most desirable names of the Teutonic luxury car

ISBN 978-1-74179-409-0

52199

9 781741 794090

munich-bavaria-black-forest-4-cover.indd 2

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4/12/2012 4:14:56 PM

PAGE

40

ON THE
ROAD

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Bavaria
p104

Stuttgart & the


Black Forest
p213

Munich
p42
#
^

Salzburg
# & Around
^
p185

SURVIVAL
305 GUIDE
PAGE

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ten tahk
derzayen

Wie ist Ihr Name? (pol)


Wie heit du? (inf)
My name is ...
Mein Name ist ... (pol)
Ich heie ... (inf)
Do you speak English?
Sprechen Sie
Englisch? (pol)
Sprichst du Englisch? (inf)
I dont understand.
Ich verstehe nicht.

vee haist doo


main nahme ist ...
ikh haise ...
shprekhen zee
english
shprikhst doo english
ikh fershtaye nikht

ACCOMMODATION
campsite
Campingplatz
guesthouse Pension
hotel
Hotel
inn
Gasthof
room in a
Privatzimmer
private home
youth hostel Jugendherberge

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Marc Di Duca, Kerry Christiani

kempingplats
pahngzyawn
hotel
gasthawf
privahttsimer
yoo
herberge

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their


favourite places are listed first
Look out for these icons:
ur author s top
re ommendation

green or
sustainable option

o payment
re uired

MUNICH . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
........
a hau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hleissheim . . . . . . . . . . . . .
reising. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
tarnberger
nf een and . . . . . . . . .

BAVARIA . . . . . . . . . . 104
.........
ssen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ieskir he . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hloss inderhof . . . . . . .
berammergau . . . . . . . . .
ttal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
armis h artenkir hen . .
ittenwald. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
berstdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
nde hs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ad lz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hiemsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
er htesgaden . . . . . . . . . .
...
rzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
othenburg ob
der auber . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inkelsbhl . . . . . . . . . . . . .
rdlingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
onauw rth. . . . . . . . . . . . .
ugsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
andsberg am e h . . . . . .
............
uremberg . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ee the nde for a full list of destinations overed in this book.

On the Road
amberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ayreuth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
oburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ltmhltal ature ark . . .
i hst tt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
...........
egensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . .
round egensburg . . . . . .
ngolstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
andshut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
assau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
avarian orest. . . . . . . . . .

SALZBURG &
AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 185
.............
.....
hloss ellbrunn . . . . . . .
ntersberg . . . . . . . . . . . . .
aisberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
allein
ad rrnberg . . .
erfen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

STUTTGART & THE


BLACK FOREST. . . . . 213
............
round tuttgart . . . . . . . .
...............
bingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
aturpark h nbu h . . . .
urg ohenzollern . . . . . . .
hw bis h all . . . . . . . . .

lm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.....
aden aden . . . . . . . . . . .
arlsruhe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
reudenstadt . . . . . . . . . . . .
inzigtal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
lpirsba h . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hilta h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
uta h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
asla h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
engenba h . . . . . . . . . . . .
reiburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
hauinsland . . . . . . . . . . .
teinwasen ark. . . . . . . . .
odtnauer asserfall . . . . .
t eter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
reisa h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
aiserstuhl . . . . . . . . . . . . .
eldberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
itisee eustadt. . . . . . . . .
hlu hsee . . . . . . . . . . . . .
riberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
t klewaldturm . . . . . . . .
artinskapelle . . . . . . . . . .
illingen hwenningen . .
ottweil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
nterkirna h . . . . . . . . . . . .
.......
onstanz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ainau sland . . . . . . . . . .
ei henau sland . . . . . . .
ariens hlu ht . . . . . . . . . .
eersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
fahlbauten . . . . . . . . . . . . .

irnau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ffenberg alem . . . . . . . .
hloss alem . . . . . . . . . .
riedri hshafen. . . . . . . . . .
avensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . .
indau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest


ELEVATION
Bad Neustadt

A45

1800m

HESSE

1500m

A66

1000m
700m

Bad Kissingen

Frankfurtam-Main

500m
300m

A7

200m

MAINZ

100m

A63

Nahe River

Alzey
A61

A5

i
Rhine R

Pforzheim
A8

Mt Merkur
(660m)

iver
Rhi
ne R

Freiburg

B317

Neckar

BADEN-WRTTEMBERG

ine

Rh

Gnzburg
A8

Ulm
Senden

A81

Vhringen
A7

VillingenSchwenningen

N4

Radolfzell
Schaffhausen Reichenau

Ri

ver

SWITZERLAND
ZRICH

be

nu

Da

St Georgen

B500

Rheinfelden

B16

er
Riv
Hechingen

Schiltach

Naturpark
Schopfheim Sdschwarzwald

B25

A8
A81

Tuttlingen
TitiseeDonaueschingen
Neustadt
B27
Schluchsee
B31
Bonndorf
Mainau
Singen

Schauinsland
(1286m)

A7

Nrdlingen

Alpirsbach

Black Forest

Kirchzarten

Ansbach

Romantic Road
Medieval towns,
countryside & castles (p126)

Naturpark
Schwarzwald
Mitte/Nord

Gengenbach

Triberg
Kaiserstuhl
(560m)
Furtwangen
Breisach

Rothenburg
ob der Tauber

STUTTGART

Freudenstadt

Wolfach

Bad
Windsheim

Dinkelsbhl

Oberkirch

B33

Creglingen

Feuchtwangen

A5

Offenburg

A81

B470

A6

Maulbronn

Strasbourg

Neustadt

Weikersheim

ive

r
ve

arR

A5

Neckarsteinach

Sinsheim

Speyer

Karlsruhe

BadenBaden

Iphofen

A7

Bad
Mergentheim

ck

A65

Basel

A3

Ne

Baden-Baden
Good-looking,
good-living spa town (p235)

Karlsruhe-BadenBaden Airport

Prichsenstadt

Ochsenfurt

Schwetzingen

Rastatt
Iffezheim

Ebrach

Wrzburg

Mannheim
Heidelberg

FRANCE

A70

Sommerhausen

Ludwigshafen

A6

Rust

A3

Worms

RHINELANDPALATINATE

Hassfurt

Schweinfurt

Karlstadt

Main River

B41

Lohr

Aschaffenburg

0
Bad
Kreuznach

B27

Island

Island Konstanz

B300

Krumbach

ALLGUBAVARIAN
SWABIA

Mindelheim
Memmingen

Ottobeuren
A7

Kaufbeuren

Birnau
Kempten

B31

Lake
Constance
(Bodensee)

Freiburg
Mulled wine, gingerbread &
Christmas markets (p248)

Lindenberg
Lindau

Immenstadt
Sonthofen
Oberstdorf

Pfronten

Top Experiences
Experiences
THURINGIA

SAXONY

A72

Mdlareuth

0
0

Hof
Coburg

A9

Kronach

Selb

Nuremberg
The souths most
kid-friendly city (p144)

Marktredwitz

A70

Bayreuth

B22

Aufsess

Bamberg

Rehau

Mnchberg

Lichtenfels
Kulmbach
Staffelstein
B4

50 km
25 miles

FRNKISCHE
SCHWEIZ

Pommersfelden
Gssweinstein
Forchheim

Pottenstein

A73

FRANCONIA

Plzen

Weiden

A9

Erlangen

A93

B470

Pegnitz

B299

B14

Eckental
Hersbruck

Lauf

Frth

SulzbachRosenberg
Amberg

Rthenberg

Nuremberg

A6

Feucht

Schwabach

Schwandorf

B2

A6

Roth

Munich
Explore Bavarias exciting
capital city (p42)

B22

Neumarkt

Cham

Burglengenfeld

B20

A3

Gunzenhausen
Beilngries

Weissenburg

B446

B13

Treuchtlingen

Naturpark
Altmhltal
Eichsttt

Solnhofen
B2

Ingolstadt

Neuburg
an der Donau

Lech River

B2

Mainburg

Schrobenheisen B300

iver

Freising

Augsburg

Vilsbiburg

Peissenberg A95

Bad Tlz

Peiting
Tegernsee
Steingaden
Staffelsee Murnau
Fssen
Kochelsee Kochel

Forggensee

Alpsee Garmisch- B2
Partenkirchen
Zugspitze
(2962m)

Rosenheim

Walchensee

N
I A
A R
V
A
B
Mittenwald

Tegernsee

Alttting
B15

B20

Wasserburg

UPPER BAVARIA
Seebrck
Chieming

Chiemsee

Prien
Bernau

A8

Ruhpolding
Reit im
Winkl

AUSTRIA
Braunau

Salzburg
Visit Mozart and Marias
Alpine home (p187)

Traunstein

Seeshaupt

Marktl
am Inn

e
Riv

Starnberger
See

Mhldorf

ch

Schongau

Pcking
Wolfratshausen

Dorfen

Pocking

lza

Tutzing

B12
B388

Sa

Starnberg

Andechs
Diessen

B17

Passau

Eggenfelden

A92

Munich
International
Erding
Airport
Dachau
Knigsbrunn
Bobingen
Schleissheim
Frstenfeldbruck
Schwabmnchen
MUNICH
Puchheim
Landsberg
Vaterstetten
A96

B20

Landshut

Friedberg

Ammersee

Nationalpark

Dingolfing

IsarR

B301

Pfaffenhofen
Moosburg
A9

Aichach

Gersthofen
Neusss

Kelheim

Kloster
Weltenburg

Bayerisch
Eisenstein

B A
Bayerischer Wald
VA
R I Regen (Bavarian Forest)
A3
A
Frauenau
N
F
Grafenau
Straubing
O
Plattling
Deggendorf R E
D
S
T
EASTERN BAVARIA
B8 anu
be
Riv
B15
Landau
A92
e
r
Vilshofen

A93

Harburg
Donauwrth

Bodenmais
Zwiesel

Regensburg

Riedenburg

Inn R
iver

A9

CZECH
REPUBLIC

Furth im Wald

Salzburg

Bavarian Alps
Outdoor frolics amid
mountain peaks (p108)
Knigssee

Schloss Neuschwanstein Nationalpark


Explore the worlds most Berchtesgaden
famous castle (p109)

AUSTRIA

OUR STORY

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27

Itineraries

Whether youve got six days or


60, these itineraries provide a
starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

Wrzburg

CZECH
REPUBLIC

Naturpark
Altmhltal

FRANCE

# Nuremberg

Rothenburg
#
ob der Tauber

GERMANY

# Munich

Freiburg

Lake Constance
(Bodensee)

SWITZERLAND

Lindau

Schloss
Neuschwanstein
AUSTRIA

Ten Days

Southern Germany Highlights


Kick off your south German odyssey in Munich where three days is barely enough
time to sample the Bavarian capitals museums, nightlife and celebrated brews. A
short hop north by train brings you to Nuremberg, the bustling capital of Franconia
and a major draw for fans of both dark tourism and dark beer. Another train, another
historic city, this time university town Wrzburg where fine wine has flowed for centuries and the prince-bishops residence constitutes one of Bavarias most impressive palaces.
Youre now at the northern terminus of the Romantic Road, which runs south for 350km.
The most engaging stop along the route is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a labyrinth of medieval streets and lanes with heaps of eye-candy architecture. The Romantic Road ends at
the gates of Schloss Neuschwanstein, Bavarian King Ludwig IIs fairytale pad and one of
the worlds most iconic 19th-century follies. Perhaps stopping off at Lindau on the shores of
Lake Constance on the way, next stop is Freiburg in the southern Black Forest, where you
can follow a tour of the mammoth Mnster with a slab of the famous local gteau.

28

GERMANY

# Munich

PL AN YOUR TRIP

Chiemsee

Starnberger
See

Prien #

Salzburg

Bad Tlz

# Oberammergau

Berchtesgaden

R
Zugspitze
(2962m)

AUSTRIA

Ten Days

Munich & the Alps


The following itinerary can be tackled as a point-to-point trip or as individual day
trips from Munich; the bracing air, cobalt skies and glassy lakes of the German Alps
are easily reachable by train from the Bavarian capital. Beginning in Munich, youll
need at least three days to cover the essential viewing in this vibrant metropolis,
perhaps reserving a bit of time for a spot of shopping and to visit some of the citys lesser
known sights such as the Olympiapark and BMW Welt. If theres time, make a dash on the
S-Bahn for gobsmackingly beautiful Starnberger See to enjoy a relaxing stroll along the
pebbly shore. Pretty Oberammergau, famous for its once-a-decade passion play, is just
over two hours (with changes) on the train from Munichs Hauptbahnhof and makes a
superb base for visiting King Ludwig IIs Schloss Linderhof, an easy going 12km hike. Then
its time to stand on the roof of Germany: the Zugspitze above Garmisch-Partenkirchen,
the Bundesrepubliks highest peak. If you dont have your own wheels youll have to backtrack all the way to Munich to reach the pleasant spa town of Bad Tlz, the heart of the
Tlzer Land and home to Alpamare, the regions best water park. Heading east, more train
connections will have you on the shores of the Chiemsee in no time. Water sports are one
of the big draws here, though most come to ogle at another of Ludwig IIs palaces, Schloss
Herrenchiemsee, set on an island (the Herreninsel) in the lake and accessible by ferry from
the town of Prien. After a day of messing around on the wasser, its back into the mountains, this time the ranges around Berchtesgaden in Germanys extreme southeastern tip.
Drawing in many visitors is the areas intriguing Nazi history, particularly Hitlers mountain
perch, the Eagles Nest, now a seasonal restaurant. For an equally photogenic escapade, take
one of the electric boats from Berchtesgaden along the stunningly picturesque Knigssee,
surrounded by the Berchtesgaden National Park. From Berchtesgaden its a short bus ride
across the border into Austria and a day or two of Sound of Musicmania in achingly
beautiful Salzburg.

29

# Stuttgart

Baden- Baden

FRANCE

PL AN YOUR TRIP

# Freudenstadt

#
Kinzigtal

GERMANY

# Triberg

Freiburg

Titisee

Konstanz
SWITZERLAND

Lake Constance
(Bodensee)
AUSTRIA

One Week

Stuttgart & Black Forest


Begin with a couple of days exploring the galleries, stately plazas and vibrant nightlife of regional capital Stuttgart. High on your agenda should be the citys regal
heart, Schlossplatz, the Staatsgaleries art treasures and evenings spent sampling local rieslings in a Weinstube (wine tavern) or hanging out in Theodor-Heuss-Strasses
lounge bars. Car fans should race to the space-age Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums.
On day three, head west to Baden-Baden, a swish art nouveau spa town picturesquely
nestled at the foot of the Black Forests spruce-cloaked hills. Here you can wallow in thermal waters as the Romans once did, saunter through the sculpture-speckled Lichtentaler
Allee gardens and try your luck in the ever-grand casino. Day four takes you south along
the serpentine Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse, or B500, with tremendous forest and mountain
panoramas at every bend. Stop to glimpse Germanys largest square in Freudenstadt on
your way to the curving Kinzigtal, the prettiest valley in this neck of the woods, with its
orchards, vineyards and cluster of half-timbered villages waiting to be ticked off like rosary
beads. Your fifth day takes you to the Black Forests most storied town, Triberg, where
Germanys highest waterfall flows, the worlds biggest cuckoo clock calls, and Claus Schfer
bakes the best black forest gateau using the original 1915 recipe. Work off the cake with a
walk or cross-country ski in the wooded heights of Martinskapelle or Stcklewaldturm. A
scenic hours drive from Triberg brings you to the sunny university city of Freiburg, close
to the French border. Spend the day absorbing its easygoing flair in the Altstadts quaint
lanes, watched over by a monster of a medieval minster. Wind out your final day by the
lake. Swinging east brings you to forest-rimmed Titisee en route to the watery expanse of
Lake Constance, Central Europes third largest lake, flanked by quaint villages, vineyards,
wetlands and beaches. An afternoon in Konstanz is just long enough to get a taste of this
Roman-rooted city, where the historic alleys of the Altstadt wend down to a relaxed lakefront promenade.

30

# Coburg

Romantic Road
Nuremburg & Franconia

Wrzburg

# Nuremberg

Rothenburg
#
ob der Tauber

Altmhltal
Nature
Park

#
Dinkelsbhl

#
Nrdlingen

FRANCE

CZECH
REPUBLIC

PL AN YOUR TRIP

GERMANY

# Bayreuth

Bamberg

Harburg

#
#

Donauwrth

#
Augsburg

Schloss

# Neuschwanstein

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

One Week

One Week

The Romantic Road begins its 350km


way through Bavarias western reaches at Wrzburg where you should
take at least two days to tour the
impressive Baroque Residenz and sample
the wines produced within view of the city
centre. From here carve your way south to
magical Rothenburg ob der Tauber where
you can lose yourself in the tangle of medieval lanes and celebrate Christmas every
day. Perhaps with a stop-off at Feuchtwangen, your next destination is quaint little
Dinkelsbhl, a medieval gem ringed by a
complete set of town walls. More medieval
defences ring Nrdlingen, a less touristy
but equally attractive stopover. Then set
aside some time to check out the storybook
castle guarding the half-timbered village of
Harburg, and to stroll through twee Donauwrth before hitting the energetic city
of Augsburg. Countless churches grace the
Romantic Road but, to Augsburgs south, the
one packing the mightiest punch is the luminous Wieskirche. Contemplate King Ludwig
IIs flights of fancy at his whimsical castle,
Schloss Neuschwanstein, where Germanys most popular tourist route comes to a
fittingly fairytale climax.

With the exception of the Naturpark


Altmhltal, this itinerary is best tackled as a series of excursions from Nuremberg, using Bavarias excellent
railways. The lively capital of Franconia has
bags to see and do including the Nuremberg trials courtroom, the Germanisches
Nationalmuseum and the Deutsche Bahn
Railway Museum and an embarrassment
of eateries to choose from when you return
from exploring the region. A close second in
Franconias pecking order is Unesco-listed
Bamberg, a confusion of ancient bridges,
winding cobbled streets and riverside cottages, the air perfumed by numerous breweries producing the towns unique smoked
beer. An hours train ride brings you to Bayreuth, famous for its annual Wagner Festival but a pleasant place to stroll any time of
year. Around 100km north of Nuremberg,
Coburg is memorable for its fortress, its
British Royal family connections and the
longest sausages youll ever eat served in the
smallest bread buns. Round off your time
in Franconia with a hike, bike or canoe trip
(requiring more time) through the glorious
Altmhltal Nature Park.

Romantic Road

Nuremberg & Franconia

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