A Handbook of Cosmetics

A Handbook of
COSMETICS
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B.M. MITIIAL
M.Pharm., Ph.D., MRPharmS

Professor of Pharmacy & Deputy Director
and
N.N. SAI{A
M.Pharm., Ph.D.
Professor of Pharmacy
and Group Leader (Head)
Birla
Institute
of Technolory
PII"ANI, India
and Science,
Preface
rs B N 8r - 8573r - 2 2 -5
VPBN 48
First Edition
Reprint
Reprint
Reprint
Reprint
2000
2003
2004
2005
2006
@2000 by authorsand publishers

All rights reserved. No pad and style of this book be reproducedor transmitted,in any form, or by any means---lectronic,
mechanical,photocopying,recordingor otheiwise,without prior
permissionof the publishersand authors.
Publishedby
M K Jain for VALLABH PRAKASHAN
AP-53A,Pitampura,DELHI-110088
Phone:.27317755
e-mail : vallabh@vsnl.com
A thought to bring out a Handbook of Cosmetics has been in the

mind since 1950 when one of the authors (BMM) started teaching a
course on Perfume and Cosmetics to the B.Pharm. students of the then
Birla College, Pilani. The course was discontinued from 1964 when
Birla Institute of Technology and Science was for.med. However, a
course named, 'Cosmetic Science' has been reintroduced. Importance of
the book on Cosmetics has been felt ever since. In the last 20 years or so
the use of cosmetics has been continuously increasing so much so that
many colleges/universities have introduced courses in cosmetics. This
book intends to provide a hand book on cosmetics which may be
introducedin colleges.
The cosmetic products are classified and arranged according to their
site of application and function. Though a general manufacturing procedure is given but for special type of products, specific and separate
procedure is also given. Basic aspectsof quality control and evaluation
of products are also mentioned in each chapter.
There is in the market good literature already existing. The subject
matter is mainly from the student angle, and it is hoped that it rvill fulfil
that purpose besides providing handy literature to anyone interested in
the design and manufacture of cosmetics. Any suggestionby the readers
will be appreciated.
The authors express sincere gratitude to Mr C. Sreekhar of the
Pharmacy Group for proof reading and Mr Sharwan Kumar Vajpayee,
Deputy Director's Office for help in word processingthe manuscript.
Pilani
13 April 2000
B.M. Mithal
R.N. Saha
Rs 125 (in Delhi)

Rs 130 (outside Delhi)
Printed at
Nerv Gyan Offset Printers, Delhi
(iii)
Contents
Preface
lll
1. Cosmetics-An
Introduction
1
I
2. The Skin
1l
3. Powders and Compacts
2l
4. Skin Colorants
39
5. Skin Creafns
6l
6. SunscreenPreparations
90
7. Hair
105
8. Hair CleansingPreparations
110
9. Hair Tonics
r22
10. Hair Colorants
r28
11. Hair Grooming Aids
I4l
12. Hair Wavers, Curlers and Straighteners
152
13. Hair Removers
161
14. Shaving Preparations
r69
15. Nail
118
16. Nail Lacquers and Removers
r82
17. Auxiliary Products for Nails
r93
18. Tooth and Oral Cavity
199
19. Dental Care Preparations
203
20. Mouthwashes
216
APPENDIX-I
225
: Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act

applicable to Cosmetics
APPENDIX-II : Most Often Used Ingredienrsof Cosmetics
231
APPENDTX-III: Bibliography
239
APPENDIX-IV : Model Questions
239
SUBJECT INDEX
255
(v)
CHAPTER-1
An Introduction
The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek wotd 'kosmeticos' which
means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or
improvement of appearanceis known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn
one's own body and look beautiful has been an urge in the human race
since the firibal days. Earlier both males and females were equal
competitors for improvement of appearance. Males decorated themselves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while women did so
by wearing any coloured stones or, flowers round their neck and the
wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and
bodies and still later coloured ointrnents. Bangles and necklacesmade
of baked earth also becamecommon in the early civilization as well as
shells of various kinds obtained from nature. In digging up ancient
Egyptian tombs much light has fallen on the ancient practicesof beautification. Pharaohian tombs have revealed that coloured earths were like
malachite green. The copper ore was used as eye shadows. Lamp black
was commo,n too for eyes. For dyeing of hairs red was also practised.
The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed with materials like myrrh
to head so that when they danced the perfumed ointment would flow
down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. 'I'he history also
records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her face
and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile
Caesar and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare
has summarized it by this line, "Had Cleopatra's nose been lgnger, the
shape of the world would have been different." The women of the world
feel inspired when they have a mental feeling that they are looking good'
Hence, the practice of adornment or improvement of appearancecontinued unabated across the centuries. Various kinds of natural materials
were used for the purpose. The practice of use of cosmetics must have
grown to an appreciable extent becausethe British Parliament enacted a
Law in 1770, which still stands unrepealedand is as follows;
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
"That all women of whatever age, rank, profession or degree whether

virgins, maids or widows that shall from and after such Act impose
upon, seduce and betray into matrimony any of His Majesty's subjects by the scents, paints, cosmetics, washes, artificial teeth, false
hair, Spanish .wool, iron stays, hoops, high heeled shoes, bolstered
hips, shall incur the penalty of law in force against witchcraft and
like misdemeanours and that such marriage upon conviction shall
stand null and void."
It is interesting to note that even materials like high heeled shoes,
artificial denture etc. are classed as materials of adomment. One wonders how many females were so prosecutedand their marriagesnullified.
It was an act of distinction between male and female subject5. Maybe
the circumstances prevailing then were such that law was considered
essential.
In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be
essentialcommodities of life. The role of cosmeticsin everyday life met
greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and
medical scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psychological effect on users and specially on the skin. They keep the skin
supple delaying the onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin
infections and prevention of sunburns.
In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased
exponentially not only among in females but the male population also
indulges in their use. Hair dyes, powders, crearns are as popular with
males as with females. Most countries have now laws to control,
manufacture, labelling, sale etc. of cosmetics in such a way that use of
cosmetics harmful to health is prevented. In India Drugs Act has been
renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act and contains some sections to
exercise control over cosmetics.
The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to
be applied to external parts of the body. In other words they may be
applied to skin, hair and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring,
softening, cleansing, nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and protection. The cosmetics may be classified into 4
main groups namely(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Cosmeticsfor
Cosmetics for
Cosmetics for
Cosmetics for
Skin
Hair
Nails
Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.)
Ch.I
AN INTRODUCTION
All cosmeticsare formulatedas solids,semi-solidsor liquids. Their

formuladesignis very akin to drug dosageforms.
cosilETtcs
Skin
Powders
compacts
Hair
Nall
Creams
Lotions Colourants
tl
I'
Lipsticks
I
Lacquers
Rouges
'
Skinlotions
Laquer
Astringent
removers
lotions
Vanisfingcreams
Nail
Cold creams
polishes
All purpose
creams
Cuticle
Face powders
removers
and compacts,
Body powders,
Prickly heat
powoers,
Face pack
Hail remover
Depilatories
Epilatories
Shavingprep.
Hairwaveprep
Hairdressing
Hairconditioner
Shampoos
Eye lashprep
Dyes
Mascaras
Hairlotions
Eyebrowpencils
Dandrufflotions
Kohls
Fig. l-l Classification

of cosmetics
Cosmetics for the Skin
The skin covers vast area of body and cosmetics are applied to many
parts,
most important part being the face. The skin cosmetics are
-the
formulated in the form of solids, semi-solids and liquids. The solids
consist of powders with different degreesof flow and angle of repose or
of compacts. The semi-solids may be emulsions or simple admixtures
and liquids are both monophasic and biphasic. The solid products
consist of face powders, body powders, compacts and moulded products
like lipsticks. Face powders which are applied to the face consist of
many ingredients besides covering agents like zinc oxide or titanium
dioxide. They remove oily appearanceand give the face a smooth, dry
and peach-like finish. The face powders as per their covering power are
classihed as light, mediurn or heavy powders. Some face powers are
slightly tinted on the pink side. Face powders are packed in elegant
plastic boxes with lids.
6 HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
The other category of powders consist of body powders or talcum

powders which are applied to various parts of the body as well asto face
and possessa good degree ofslip or spreadability. The quantity ofbody
powders consurnedeach year is very high in comparison to face powders
and other cosmetics. In these powders particle size is very small and all
powders have large amounts of additives which provide and form the
base of the powder.
The compactsare round cakes of face powders generally with a slight
pinkish tint. They are applied with a matching piece of fabric which is
packed along with it. The compacts are prepared by compression of
face powders containing some binders like mucilage of gums, soapsetc.
and for application the piece of fabric is rubbed on the compact and then
applied to the face as per needs. They are mounted in rcund casesone
side of which is a mirror.
In addition to compacts, 'Cake Make ups' have also been patented.
Such cakes are dry and applied with a rnoistened pad. They contain
some oily/waxy components (l to 25Yo), pigments (about l0%), fillers
and water-soluble dispersing agents (l-13%). The fillers are talc, chalk,
etc. The same are applied with a moistened pad. They are preparedby
granulation followed by compression.
Sorne 'liquid powders' have also been marketed as replacement for
powders to whiten the shoulders,neck etc. for dances. phenazonewas at
one time used for this (20% solution) tinted with a water-soluble dye.
But use of phenazone on skin has raised eyes of dermatologists,their
application is also a handicap. Hence, liquid powders carne into vogue.
These are prepared with addition of glycerine (15%) to a face powder
base consisting of chalk, zinc oxide etc. They also contain aboul 600/o
water and viscosity is imparted by 0.5%oof rnethylcellulose. The colours
may be shadesof red, yellow or brown pigments.
An important category of skin cosmetics are the colouring agents
which are used generally for coloration of lips, cheeks, eyelids (eye
shadows) and mascarasfor eyelashesand eyebrow pencils. In colorants,
lipsticks are used by masseswhile other products are used very selectively. Lipsticks impart an attractive colour and looks to the lips. Lips
can also be made to look wider or narrower if it is applied intelligently
and artistically. The basewhich is coloured to produce lipsticks consists
of a judicious blend of oily and waxy materials, the important ones
being beeswax, carnauba wax, ceresin, paraffin wax, vaseline, etc. The
formula of each individual manufacturer varies. Some lipsticks include
some zinc oxide (2oh) or titanium oxide (l%) to impart some covering
Ch.l
AN INTRODUCTION
power. Most lipsticks are prepared by moulding. To give a glossy

finish they may be exposed momentarily to small flame for the material
to melt and set quickly. This is said to impart glossy finish.
Next important category of colouring preparations are the rouges
which are generally applied to cheeks to make them look rosy since rosy
cheeks are considered to be indicators of good health. Rouges are
marketed as solid compacts or as wax, anhydrous or hydrous creams and
also as liquids. Compacts containing binders are prepared by compression or moulding. Generally soaps of ammonia-stearic acid and starch
are used. The colours have to be certified colours only under Drugs &
Cosmetics Act. In rouges an opaque base is more desirable' The bases
may contain about 5Vo zinc oxide for imparting opacity.
In cream-type rouges the anhydrous ones are prepared by vaseline,
kaolin etc. The cream rouges may be vanishing or cold cream type. The
liquid rouges are not very popular but all the same are marketed to some
extent. They fre prepared in mucilaginous solutions of hydrocolloids
like methylcellulose (2%) in water td which colour, preservatives,
perfumes etc., besideswetting agents are added.
The other coloured products are mainly for the areas of the eye
amongst which commonly used products are:
( 1) Mascaras(eyelashes)
(2) Eyeshadows(for eyelids)
(3) Eyebrow pencils (for outline of eyebrows)
(4) Kohls (eyelid inside)
Mascaras are used for darkening and increasing apparent length of
the eyelashesso as to increasebrightnessand expressivenessofthe eyes.
Mascaras are marketed as cakes, creams or liquids. These products
should be evenly applicable, should be non-sticking, should dry rapidly
and be absolutely non-irritant and non-toxic. The colours used are bone
black, carbon black or oil black. Fine powders of silver and aluminium
are also used though the same are costly now.
The most important and popular category of skin cosmetics are the
various kinds of creamsrand milks. The first cream in the world is said
to have been prepared by Galen in Rome for the royal ladies of the
Roman Empire. It was a'beeswax-boraxtype. It was a superior product
to the perfumed ointments which were applied until then. The water in
the cream improved its elegance,application and also had cooling effect.
Nowadays there is a plethora of formulae for creams and milks, all of
which are emulsion type. The creams and milks are mostly o/w type
products, but some w/o type products are also there' They are vanishing
A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
Ch.I
AN INTRODUCTION
tanning. Westernpeopleor peoplewith light skins like their skins to

look slightly'tanned. Increasedtanning is also believedto take place
after ingestionof some materialslike methoxsalenor extractsof Anmi
magus.
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
(9)
(10)
Cold creams
Cleansing creams
Cleansing milks
Cleansing lotions
Vanishing creams
Foundation creams
Emollient creams
Skin conditioning creams
AII purpose creams
Moisturizing creams
Sunburn Protection and Skin Tanning preparations

Exposure of body to sunlight in moderateamounts may be beneficial
but excessive exposure causesdamage to various extents. It may cause:
(l) Irritability and depression
(2) Inflammation
(3) Sepsis
(4) Malignant growth
(5) Movement of melanin from base layer to stratum corneum
(6) Release of dilators causing erythrema
(7) Sunburns and skin diseases
Ultraviolet part of sunrays is held to be most detrirnental for the skin.
should be non-toxic, effectively absorb or reflect erythemogenic

light
without undergoing chemical change, must not decompose ii
'roisture
and perspiration and should not be absorbed through skin.
The sunscreen preparations are marketed as oir, lotions, powders,
cfeams or only as solutions of dyes. Sunscreensalso speed up
skin
Hair Preparations
Hair preparationsmay be functionally categorizedinto:
(l) Preparations
for dressingand settingofhair
(2) Preparationsfor cleansing
(3) Tonics
(4) Preparationsfor hair removal
(5) Preparations
for colouring
(6) Preparationsfor applicationto areaslike eyebrows,eyelids,
either for colouringor upkeep.
The hair dressingincludesbrilliantinesas helps in combingof hair,
hair wave products,hair settingand fixing prodiicts. The most important
hair dressingusedin India is the hair oil basedon vegetableor mineral
oils occasionallyclaiming to contain herbals. Brilliantinesare wrxy
having preparationsconsistencyof vaselines. Hair creamswhich are
emulsionsare more commondressingsin the westernworld.
Curly hair probablylooks more attractirlethan straight. Earlier hair
waving lvas achieved by hot iron or boiling in water. These gave
permanentcurls. Then waving was done by chemicalcomponentslike
ammoniumhydroxidewith borax.
Many thiol compoundshave also been suggestedfor waving hair.
Reducingagentsare also said to be helpful. Thesedays cold waving
methodsare more commonlike pin perms,rollers etc. Somereducing
lotions may also be used.
'
Shampooswhich are meant for cleansing of hair and scalp are
becomingvery popularin place of soapsused earlier for the purpose.
With the advent of syntheticdetergents,particularly the non-ionic type,
therehas beena boom in shampoos.Most shampoosare clear liquids.
But now creamand solid shampoosare also available.
Hair Tonics aresuspiciousproductsin the eyesof public,scientific
as well as non-scientific,becauseof the word 'tonics'. The preparations
underthis group includesomeperfumesfor applicationto hair as sprays,
someglosseningagents,preparations
for dandruff,seborrhoea,
baldness
etc. Many productsare advertisedas growth promotersbut such claims
are suspiciouslylookedupon.
A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
Ch;I AN INTRODUCTION
Hair Removers consist of depils and epils which remove the unwanted hair by dissolution of hair shafts or help it in pulling out.
Shaving creams which assist in hair removal by blades/ra"o., by softening the hair shaft of faces in males may also be distantly classified
in
this group.
Nail White products are used for giving white edges. They are
marketed as pastes or creams containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide,
kaolin, colloidal silica etc.
Cuticle Removers are used for beautifiing nails and are available
in market. The shedding of outer dead cells by skin gives some grooves
around nails which detract the nail beauty. These are removable by use
of alkaline solutions in water by small plugs of cotton, Potassium
hydroxide is best for this purpose.
Hair Dyes have become very common. Somehow grey hair has
been associatedwith old age. Nobody likes the black hair to turn grey
on his or her head and many people continuously use hair dyes for
Dental and Oral Care Preparations

Such products are normally consideredas hygienic products but since
appearanceofteeth and good breath are consideredto be overall ingredient of a cosmetic personality, all kinds of products for cleansing of teeth
and mouth washes are generally formulated and marketed by cosmetic
companies. For design of such products one must be familiar with tooth
and gum structures. The teeth are the grinders located at the point of
entry of food matbrials in the body. The food which is being cut or
chewed by the teeth, its small particles get lodged into various junctions
between the teeth and between teeth and gums. These food crumbs if
not removed regularly may become pockets for microbes to grow.
Hence their dislodgement and removal is very essential for the safety,
longevity and appearanceof the teeth. Historically teeth were cleaned
by use of stems of some trees. The fibres of stems provided abrasive
action and trees like Neem had antiseptic elements also. Messwah was
another such tree popular in India. The common tooth ailments are
tartar accumulation, gingivitis, dental caries and other minor kinds of
dental eating away by bacteria. So any product, paste, cake or powder
must have abrasive and antiseptic action besidesgood taste, flavour etc.
and medication, if necessary. The common types of dental preparations
are:
(l) Tooth pastes
(2) Tooth powders
(3) Dentifrices
The preparations used on eyebrows, eyelashesand eyelids are very

special products. The trade in them is of a very small order.
Cosmetics for Nails
The nails, in particular the nail plates of the fingers of hands and
feet, have been subjects of decoration. The main decoration is in terms
of shine or colour. The shine or polish is done by applicationof sorne
alrasive rnaterialslike stannic oxide or powdered silica and rubbing
with
a chamois leather. wax porishes with abrasivesare arso
Th"
"orrroon.
mo st popular nail d re s s i n gi s th e c o l o u re d n a i r l acquers
or pol i shes
which give a coloured coating to the nail plates. Generally they
consist
of nitro celluloses, plasticizers, solvents and colours.
The nail polishesor lacquersshould be finely ground to distributethe
dye and should have hardnessand plasticity. corour should not alter on
keeping and when appried. Even drying shourd taiie prace within a few
minutes.
Enamel Removers have also come into market. They consist
of
mainly solvent capable of nitrocellulose dissolution. They may
be
marketedas such or as creams.
Nail creams are in fashion too. They are appried to brittre nails.
Cold, vanishing or all purpose creallts can also be applied.
:
Nail Bleaches are employed to remove stains of tobacco or other
stains by oxidation or reductitrn: For oxidation hydrogen peroxide,
chlorine compounds;perboratesor peroxidesare used. For reduction
sulphiteswith dilute acid'are suitable.,
\-_
The tooth pastes and powders are similar in composition except that
tooth paste is made pasty by addition of suitable additives. They
basically contain:
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
.lt
Abrasives
Fillers
Antiseptic compounds
Surface active agents/soaps
l0
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
Glycerine, hydrocolloids
Flavouring agents
Taste imparters
Colours
The denfifrices are solid cakes and for application to teeth they rnay
be taken on tooth brushes in a moist state.
CHAPTER-2
The Skin
The mouthwashes are mainly solutions of antiseptic substanceswith

various other additives. The same are not very popular.
To get a comprehensive idea of the cosmetics the chart presentedon
page 3 of this book may be useful.
on the whole cosmetics are important group of consumer materials.
Their flavours or smells are very significant in their selection bv the
common man.
Evaluation and Quality Control
The cosmetics are very important. All the products should be
evaluated for their performance, ingredients, etc. It is also necessaryto
check whether the products have any sensitivity or toxic effects.
Since most of the cosmetic preparationsare meant to be applied on skin

for beautification, protection or other purposes,basic knowledge of the
skin and its functions is very much important for designing cosmetics
meant for specific purpose of the skin.
The skin, the heaviest single organ of the body, combines with the
mucosal lining of the respiratory, digestive and urogenital tracts to form
a capsule which separatesthe internal body structures from the external
environment. It not only physically protects the internal organs and
limits the passage of substances into and out of the body but also
stabilisestemperatureand blood pressurewith its circulation and evaporation system.
For an averagesix-foot, 70-kg human, the skin surfacearea is 1.9 m2
and weighs about 2100 gms. A typical square centimetre of skin covers
l0 hair fcrllicles, 12 nerves, 15 sebaceousglands, 100 sweat glands,
3 blood vesselswith 92 cm of nervesand 3x106 cells.
Normally the skin is very smooth. However, due to aging and exposure to heat and cold, sunrays,pressureand abrasion,dust and microbial
infection, etc. the srnoothnessmay be lost and the skin becomesrougher
and thicker. Aging also produces wrinklels on the skin surfaoe.
pH of the skin varies from 4 to 5"6 and refers to the pH of the film of
aqueous and other soluble materials present on the surface of the skin.
Sweat and fatty acids secretedfrom sebum influence the pH of the skin
surface. It is suggestedthat acidity of the skin helps in limiting or
preventing the growth of pathogensand other organisms.
Functions and Compositions of Skin
Skin performs several functions including containrnentof body fluids
and tissues; protection fi'om external stimuli like chemicals, light, heat
and cold, radiation etc.; reception of stimuli like pressure, heat, pain;
biochemical synthesis; metabolism and disposal of biochemical wastes;
regulation of body temperature;controlling of blood pressure.
ll
t2
,""'6tin contains several chemical substanceswith specific functions

like keratin, Iipids, fatty acids, proteinase,etc'
Keratin is produced from polypeptides in the cytoplasm of epidermal
cells by a high energy system at the granular layer of normal human
skin.
of
Sebum is the product of the sebaceous glands and consists
triglycerides, free fatty acids, waxes, sterols, squalene and paraffins'
Free fatty acids are responsible for bactericidal and fungicidal activities.
Skin also contains two essential fatty acids, called linoleic acid and
arachidonic acid, which play an irnportant role in regulating the barrier
functions.
Skin synthesizeson steroid, vitamin D3, that subsequentlygets converted to the horrnone calcitriol which is important to normal calcium
metabolism.
in
A proteinase has been isolated which is believed to play a role
modulating the inflammatory responseto cellular injury'
Anatomy and PhYsiologY
T hehur nans k i n c o m p ri s e s o fth re e d i s ti n c tbutmutual l ydependent
an
tissues (Fig. 2-l), the stratified, avascular, cellular epidermis and
Ha ir
follicle
Stratum
corneum
Ha ir
shaft
l3
Ch.z THE SKIN
underlying dermis of connective tissue. At the bottom of the dermislies

the fatty, subcutaneous laYer.
Human skin displays two main types. Hairy skin encloses hair
follicles and sebaceous glands, but there are no encapSulatedsense
organs. Glabrous skin of the palms and the soles is made of a thick
epidermis with a compact stratum corneum, but the integuments lack
hair follicles and sebaceousglands and the dermis supports encapsulated
sense organs
A. The Epidermis
The multilayer envelope of the epidermis varies in thickness,depending on cell size and the number of cell layers, ranging from about
0.g mm on the palms and the soles down to 0.06 mm on the eyelids.
I stratum
corneum
I-l
.,u,nn
epidermis
Dermal
vasculature
Eccrinegland
duct
of epidermis
Fig.2-2 Magnification
Sebaceous
srarru
Arrectores
Dermal
vasculature
pilorum
muscle
Living
epidermis
Subcutaneous
fatty tissue
SLrbcutaneous
vasulature
ofthe skin
Fig. 2-l Schematiccross-section
Cells which provide epithelial tissue differ from those of all other organs
in that as they ascend from the proliferative layer of basal cells they
change in an ordered fashion from metabolically active and dividing
cells to dense, dead, keratinized protein' Downward, the epidermis
comprises of five distinct and separatelayers:
(l) The horny tayer (Stratum corneum) : At the final stage of
differentiation, epidermal cells construct the most superficial layer of the
epidennis, the stratum corneum. Human beings owe their ability to
survive in a non-aqueousenvironment to the almost impermeablenature
of this refractory horny layer. on the general body areasthe membtane
provides about 10-15 layers of much flattened, keratinized de_ad-cells,
ttu"king them in highly organised units of vertical columns. The horny
laye. may be only l0 pm thick when dry, but swells in water to several
times this thickness. However, at friction surfaces of the body like
palms and soles the thickness may be as high as seyeral hundred
micrometres. When dry it is a very dense tissue' about i '5 gmlcrn3'
A HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
14
Each thin polygonal cell measures approximately 0.5 to l.5 pm thick,

with the diameter ranging from 34 pm on the foreheadto 46 pm on the
thigh axilla.
At normal relative humidities, a normal stratum corneum can take up
moisture upto I 5-20% of its dry weight. But in water logged condition
water content of sorne areas of, the body can be several times of the dry
weight. When occlusive dressing or c.reamsare applied over skin, the
stratum corneull can become highly hydrated due to prevention of
natural evaporation of water. By this process some substancesmay
become more soluble in it as well. Conversely as the stratum corneum
dries out it becomes brittle. Thus the ultradry, inelastic tissue tends to
split when stretched causing conditions like chapped lips, windburn and
dishiran hands.
One can distinguish two types of horny layers by anatornic site,
function and structure. The horny pads of the palms and soles adapt for
weight bearing and friction and the membranous stratum corneum over
the remainder of the body is flexible but impenneable. The horny pads
are at least 40 times thicker than the membranoushorny layer. Holbrook
and Odland carried out an ultrastructural analysis of the stratum corneum
to find out the regional differences in the thickness (cell layers) in
humans (Table 2-l). The methodsthat were utilised for measurementof
the layers were:
(a) Scotch tape stripping to remove cell layers" The number of
strippings were correlated with the nurnber of cell layers.
(b) Treatment of paraffin embedded and frozen biopsies with alkali
to cause swellins. hence better visualization and more accurate
counting.
(c) Application of standard chemical fixation, paraffin embedment
and staining proceduresfor histological sections. Thickness was
measured rry.itha micrometer eyepiece.
TABLE 2-I
Regional Differences in the Thickness and
Cell Layers of the Straturn Corneum
Bod.y Region
Abdornen
Flexorforearrn
'I'high
Biri;k
Thickness of S C. (pm)
Number of Cell Lqvers
A[ean
Runge
lu[ean
8 .2
t2 9
t{ ).9
9 .4
5.9-98
8.tr- 16.2
7.7-t5 .3
8 .2 -r1 .3
18.0
21.6
19.3
15.8
Ilange
15.0-20.9
r 6.7-30.0
143-22.7
I 4.0-21l
Ch-2 THE SKIN
15
Human beings constantly shed the outermost layers of the stratum

corneum as lipid-soaked horny flakes with an average daily loss from
the whole body surface of 0.5 to 1.0 kg.
The stratum corneum plays a crucial role in controlling the percutaneous absorption of chemical substances. The selective permeability of
its elegant structure provides a central theme in many aspectsof design
of cosmetics.
(2) Stratum lucidum : In the palm of the hand and the sole of the
foot, an anatomically distinct, poorly staining hyaline zone forms a thin,
translucent layer immediately above the granular layer. This region is
the stratum lucidum. The cells are non nuclear.
(3) Stratum granulosurn (granular layer) : This layer is above the
keratinocytes. They manufacture basic staining particles, the
keratinohyaline granules. This keratogenous or transitional zone is a
region of intense biochemical activity and morphological change. The
dynamic operation manufactures the keratin to form the horny layer by
an active rather by a degenerativeprocess.
(4) Stratum spinosum (prickly cell layer) : The cells of this layer
are produced by morphological and histochemical alteration of the cells
of 'basal layer as they moved upward. The bells flatten dnd their nuclei
shrink. They are also called polygonal cells, prickle cells, becausethey
are interconnectedby fine prickles. Each prickle enclosesan extension
of tnd cytoplasm" and the opposing tips of the prickles of adjacent cells
adhere to form intercellular bridges, the desmosomes. These links
maintain the integrity of the epidermis.
(5) Stratum germinativum (basal layer and dermoepidermal junction) : The basal cells are nucleated, columnar and about 6 pm wide,
with their long axis at right angles to the dermoepidermaljunction, they
are connected by cytoplasmic intercellular bridges.
Mitosis of the basal cells constantly renews the epidermis and this
proliferation in healthy skin balances the loss of dead horny cells from
the skin surface. Thus the thickness of epidermis remains constant'
The basal cells also include melanocytes which produce and distribute melanin granules to the keratinocy'tes required for pigmentation, a
protective measureagainst radiation. Below the basal cell layer lies the
complex dermoepidermal junction, which constitutes an anatomic functional unit. The junction serves the three functions of dermal-epidermal
adherence, mechanical support for the epidermis, the control of the
passageof cells and some large molecules acrossthe junction'
16
OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
The barrier function of the junction can be consideredin terms of

three species,small molecules,large moleculesand cells. There is no
evidencethat the junction significantlyinhibits the passageof water,
electrolytes,and other low molecularweight materials.
B. The Dermis
region
The dermis, as indicatedin Fig. 2-1, is the non-descriptive
fatty region- It
lying in betweenthe epidermisand the subcutaneous
consistsmainly of the densenetwork of structuralprotein fibres i.e.
collagen, reticulum and elastin, embeddedin the semigel matrix of
'ground substances'. It is about 0.2 to 0'3 cm
mucopolysaccharidic
thick. The elasticityof skin is due to the networkor gel structureof the
cells. It also consistsof the epidermisand reticularlayer,which is the
maiir structuralbody of the skin. Beneaththe dermis,the fibrous tissue
tissue. On
opensout and mergeswith the fat containingsubcirtaneous
ridges or
into
is
formed
the other hand, the upper layer of the dermis
vessels,
blood
papillae projecting into the epidermis,which contains
the
into
lymphatics,and nerve endings. Only the nerve fibres reach
germinativezoneof the epidermis.
C. SubcutaneousTissue
tissue,known as the
This layer consistsof a sheetof fat-richareol.ar
structures. The
underlying
superficial fascia,attachingthe dermisto the
veins
are present
layer is quite elastic. Large arteriesand
subcutaneous
only in the superficialregion. The rest of the portion containsa limited
numberof capillariesand novital organs.
D. Skin Appendages
sebaceous
with hair follicles and associated
The skin is interspersed
types of
two
regions
glandsand in specif,rc
glands,like pilosebaceous
are
these
sweat glands, eccrine and apocrineglands. Collectively,
referredto as the skin appendages.
Hair follicles are distributedover the entireskin surfaceexceptsoles
of the feet, the palm of the hand,the red portion of the lips, and selected
portion of the sex organs. It consistsof concentriclayersof cellularand
non-cellularcomponentsand is placed at an angle. Smooth muscle
fibres, arrectores pilorum, attach the hair to the dermal connective
tissues. The hair shaft is formed by a processof cellular division and
migration of the cells similar to that which forms the stratumcorneum.
Hairs are thus formed of keratinizedcells compactedtogetherinto plates
and scales.
ch-2 THESKIN
17
gland
Each hair follicle is associatedwith one or more sebaceous
which are referred as the acid mantle of the skin. ln some selected
region of the skin theseexist in the absenceof the hair follicle. Their
size varies from regionto region (200 to 2000 pm) and is highestin
nose. It secretesoily material,sebum,which lubricatesthe skin and
stratumcorneuinand also maintainsthe pH of the skin at 5'
(l) Eccrine sweatglands : Eccrineglandsor salty sweatglandsare
distributedover the surfaceof the body. They consistof simple,coiled
tube as shown in Fig.2.l and have a density from 100 to
200 glandsper cm2 of the body surfacedependingon the body region.
The secretionis dilute aqueoussolutionof salt and someother minor
componentsand it has a pH of about 5. The principalfunctionof the
gland is heatcontrol" It secretesdilute aqueoussolutionof salt and due
to this it regulatesthe body temperature.
(2) Apocrine glands : Apocrine glands are presentonly in the
selectedregion of the body viz. axillae (armpits),in anogenitalregion
and aroundthe nipples. They are ten times largerthan eccrineglands
containingprotein,lipoprotein,lipids and
a milky substance
and secretes
diverseproteins. The secretionis mainly stimulateddue to emotional
stressand sexualstimulation.
glands are responsiblefor the
(3) Sebaceousglands : Sebaceous
secretionof sebum,which constitutesthe majority of the fatty layer
glandsare found in various
coveringthe skin and hair. The sebaceous
partr ofthe body like face,shoulders,upperchestand scalp,but are not
found on the palmsand soles. They are available500-1000per square
centimetre.
(4) Hair : The hair shaft is basically the product of synthesized
proteinfollowing cell division at the root of hair follicle. The number
of hair per unit area varies at different parts of the body. The rate of
growthalsovariesfrom siteto siteand variesbetween0.2 to 0'4 mm per
day.
Common Disordersof the Skin
As we mentionedearlierthat cosmeticsare basicallyfor beautification and masking,preventionor overcomingcommon disorders,it is
to havea knowledgeof commondisordersof the skin. Design
npcessary
and applicationof any skin cosmeticswill be guidedby the natureand
siteof disorders.Commondisordersof skin can be classifiedas follows:
l8
A.' Pigmentary Disorders

This is due to disorder in pigmentation on the skin and it can be of
hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation in nature.
(1) Hyperpigmentation : This is the disorder due to abnormal
pigmentation which occurs on a small area of the skin, mainly in
Caucasians. This disorder is due to an increased local synthesis of
melanin in the epidermis. This can be further stimulated by exposureto
UV or X-irradiation.
Various conditions are termed as ephelides,
lentigens, moles, ochronosis.
(2) Hypopigmentation : Synthesis of lesser amount of melanin in
part of skin can cause hypopigmentation, which is called vitiligo, a
patchy depigmentation of the skin afflicting a considerable number of
non-Caucasians. It can also occur in Caucasians. A decreaseor total
absenceof melanocytes in the depigmented areas has been observed.
B. Disorders of the Sebaceousand Sweat Glands
Disorders or malfunctions of sebaceousand sweat glands can cause
various skin disorders like acne, prickly heat, etc.
Acne like pimples, blackheads,whiteheads and boils are caused by
the disorders of hair follicles and sebaceousglands and mostly occur in
face, neck and upper portion of chest and back.
Miliaria, most common of which is prickly heat or strophus, is
caused by the disorder of sweat glands and commonly occurs in neck
and large areas of the skin.
C. Skin Scaling Disorders
Skin scaling can be due to dandruff and psoriasis.
(1) Psoriasis : This is a skin disease characterized by the formation
of scaly red patches, particularly on the extensor surfaces of the body,
mainly elbows and knees. The site is covered with silvery scaleswhich
on removal show a small bleeding point.
(2) Dandruff: This is characterizedby flaking of stratum corneum
and mostly occurs on scalp. The reason suggestedfor this condition can
be microbial infection, immunological or normal disorder at the surface
of stratum comeum.
(3) Effects of aging on skin : Aging affects the characters and
functions of the skin. Cosmetics are used to partially repair, mask or
overcome such changes. Various changescaused by aging are thinning
of epidermis making older people more prone to injury and skin infec-
Ch-2 THE SKIN
19
tion, reducing the sensitivity of the immune system causing further skin
damage and infection, change in colour, lower melanin level makes it
more sensitive to sun exposure,dry and scaly skin due to less secretion,
cold skin due to low blood supply, decreasein elasticity of the skin and
occurrenceof wrinkles.
Skin : Its Nutrition and Care
To ensure the maintenanceof normal condition of skin various steps
practices
should be adopted. They include cleansing, freshening or
or
toning, moisturising, nourishing and protecting the skin. For aging skin
further care is required for overcoming the changesthat have occurred or
for masking the skin characters"
Advent of more and more knowledge about skin physiology and
biochemistry has given the cosmetic manufactuiers more avenues for
better skin care. Several creams are available for specific functions,
overcoming specific disorder of skin in special cases.
Nutrients of skin Various substancesare essentialfor maintenance
of normal condition and function of skin. Some of these are systemically supplied and others are synthesizedby various mechanisms in the
skin from raw materials. These include:
(1) Proteins : Proteins are major componentssynthesizedin epidermis and hair follicle from amino acids. The amino acids are supplied by
the blood by the breakdown of the dietary proteins at the digestive
systgms.
(2) Lipids : Lipid is another important substancesynthesizedin the
skin by the sebaceousglands in the epidermis. Sebum is lipid secreted
from the sebaceousglands and is made from mainly fatty acids' Lipids
produced at the epidermis have a role in barrier function and structural
integrity of the stratum corneum, and are made from acetate, amino
acids, long chain fatty acids and carbohydrates.
(3) Melanin : Melanin is synthesized from the amino acid tyrosin
and is responsible for pigmentation at the skin.
(4) Energy supply substances : The synthesis of proteins, lipids
and melanin requires the supply of energy at the skin cells and is made
available by energy processeslike oxidative phosphorylation of glucose
or other monosaccharides.
(5) Water : This is most important for normal function of the skin
and movement of other nourishing substancesand metabolites.
20
(6) Others : Apart from the above substatpes various other substances like protein hormones, steroid hormones, corticosteroids and
vitamins are also essential for normal maintenance of the skin.
The above substancesare required to be supplied as skin preparations
if they are not available through normal systemic process.
Supply of these nourishing substancesrequires penetration through
skin to reach the proper site. It is very important for the designer to
ensure the cutaneouspermeation ofany such substances.The percutaneous permeation of amy chemical entity will depend on various factors
like:
(a) Physico-chemical properties and concentration of the
permeant
(b) Composition and characteristicsof the vehicle
(c) Condition of the skin
For poorly penetrable substances,some additive can be incorporated
to enhance the penetration of the permeants. 'These are called 'Penetration Enhancers'. Various substancesare used as penetration enhancers
like dimethyl formamide (DMF), dimethyl sulphoxide (DMSO), ozone,
alcohols and surfactants. Their funtions are attributed to their role to
temporarily change the barrier systems of the skin by various mechanisms.
Skin care preparations Various products are available and marketed for the care of skin. They are used for beautifrcation, skin care,
masking or repairing of skin defects, etc.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Powders, face powders, compacts etc.

Skin colorants like lipstick, rouge, eye mascaraetc.
Various creams for care of skin.
Sunscreenpreparationsfor skin protection.
CHAPTER-3
Powders and ComPacts

and comPreParations is Powders
women
bY
onlY
not
care,
and bodY
as
known
also
are
which
rowders,
MedicomPacts'
and
[ace Powders
"fl.T:fl:::::#'T:ffi:i:'*1
powdersusedfor specificpurposes'
skin care preparationsin
Fundamentallypowders diffpr from liquid
theirphysicalcharacteristicsandtheirmostimportantcosmeticpropertiesaredeterminedexactlybythesecharacteristics.Veryfineparticle
p"' unit weight which covers a large
size produceslarge t"tfu""
-"u
light dispersion'
,urf*" areaof the body and resulis in strong
characteristics:
The powdersshouldhavethe following
power and so hide skin
covering
(l) The powdermust have good
blemishes.
to the skin and not blow off easily'
'12; t, must adhereperfectly
a few minutes to avoid
(3) It must not be completely dissipatedin
re-Powdering.
preferably of a matt or
(a) The finish given to the skin must be
Peach-likecharacter'
eliminated'
(5) Shine on or aroundthe nosemust be completely
(6) 'the Powdermust be absorbent'
slip to enablethe powder to spreadon
1Zi fn"r" must be sufficient
a blotchy effect'
the skin by the puff withoui producing
be such that a clown-like
(8) The constituentsof the powder must
be rather towards
effect is impo'siUte' The preferenceshould
one of transParency'
Preparations
Raw Materials for Powdersand Allied
of powders is the
The primary considerationin the manufacture
2l
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
22
A HANDBooKoF
coSMETIcS
selectionof proper raw materials. euality of the basic ingredientsis

very important to achieve the intendedquality of the finished products
and the effect to be obtained from the products. so, the quality of the
raw materialsplays an important role in the ultirnate powder ro.-ut"tion. The knowledgeof variousraw materialsand their characters,
role.
shouldbe well known beforejudicious selectionof materials.
The main substancesused to impart all the necessaryqualities are
kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc stearate,titanium'dioxide, calcium carbonate,
magnesiumcarbonate,purified talc (talcum), magnesiumstearateetc.
Apart from the above, various colours and perfumesare also used to
impart intendedcolour shadeand odour.
The raw materialsto be usedfor manufacturingpowder shouldbe of
good quality:(1) The materials should not be hbrd. If the materialsare
crystals in nature they must not have any sharp edges or
points. Thesecan damagethe skin.
(2) Solubility of the materialsin water and fat mixture must be
nil or least.
(3) The materialsmustbe non-i*itatingandnon-toxicto the skin.
(a) The materialsmust be chemicallyneutral and should not
interact with each other.
The raw materialsgenerallyused in manufacturingof variouspowdersare classifiedand discussedaccordingto their functions:(l) Materials imparting covering character
,
(2) Materials imparting adhesioncharacter
(3) Materials imparting slip and softness
(4) Materials imparting absorbencycharacters
(5) Materials imparting peach-likefinish
(6) Frosted-lookmaterials
(7) Colouringsubstances
(8) Perfumes
All the materials are not required for every preparation. According
to the need and purposeof the productraw materialsare selected. Some
of the items are essentialfor every preparationsuch as covering materials, absorbents,
adhesives,slips.
(l) Materials for imparting covering character : One important
characterexpectedfrom the materialsused in powders,particularly face
23
powders,is the ability to cover small skin imperfections,enlargedpores,

etc. They should be in finely powderedform. Generally,the covering
power per unit weight is stronger if the specific surface area of the
powder is higher i.e. the particlesare finer. The efficiency of the
covering agent can dependon the medium in which it is dispe?sed.
Covering power is betteron dry skin than moist skin. Titanium dioxide
is the bestcoveringagent. It is widely usedin facepowders. covering
power of titaniumdioxide is 1.6 times more than the zinc oxide on dry
ikin and 2.5 times more on moist and greasy skin. It is mostly
propertiesare, however,inferior to
physiologicallyinert. Its sunscreen
zinc oxide.
Zinc oxide is also a very good coveringagent.t,Thoughfiner particles have hetter covering power, but covering ptrwer of zinc oxide
particlesdiminishesif the particle size is below 0'25 pm. In moist
invironmentcoveringpowerof zinc oxide is 37Yoof that of dry powder
and much lessin oily environment.Zinc oxide hasvery goodsunscreen
propertiesas it has a protectiveeffectagainstultravioletrays.
Kaolin, zinc stearate,magnesiumstearateand rice starch are other
usedas coveringagents. However,they are not as good as
substances
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. But combinationof the abovematerials, in different proportions,can be used to make productsof varying
coveringability.
(2) Materials imparting adhesion character : trpe5p...-5g.l0.stancss
impart adhesioncharacter. Not only to the skin surfacebut also to the
This
iowder puff, which facilitates taking powder from its container.
characteris essentialto cling the powder to the face or other skin
surface.
The materialsprimarily used for imparting adhesivecharactersare
rnetal soapsprimarily zinc stearateand magnesiumstearate,talc, magnesium and calciumsaltsof myristic-acid.
' Magnesiumstearatehas better adhesiveproperty than zinc stearate
and is more preferred in face powders. But zinc stearateis more
predominantlyused in talcum powders. Super quality magnesiumand
zinc stearatesare availablewith excellentcolour, texture and minimum
of odour. 'Ihey also give a velvety softnessto the product^ As they are
waterproof,they maintain the complexion intact in inclementweather.
in facepowders.
Magnesiumstearateis used3-10%s
are also available for use for the
calciurn
and
of
lithium
Stearates
has also got good coverparticular,
in
stearate,
Lithium
sam.epurpose"
texture.
flufff
ing propertiesand
24
A HANDBooKoF cosMETrcs
Magnesium and calcium salts of myristic acid are also used for their
adhesion properties. Magnesium myristate has better adhesion character
and a better texture.
Cosmetic quality talc, which is a purified hydrated nragnesium silicate has adhesion properties. Though it is available in various corrntries,
Italian product is the best and used for both face powders and body
powders.
The adhesion character of the powders can be increasedby incorporating l-2%o cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate,
petrolatum, lanolin or similar fats.
25
are colloidal kaolin, starch, bentonite, precipitated chalk (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate'
colloidal kaolin is a fine, soft, white powder. It has a good absorbent capacity for aqueous and fatty substancesand good covering power
also. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and inert. It has less slip
property.
Bentonite is mainly aluminium silicate and fine grey whitish powder.
It has extraordinary swelling power and can swell upto 12 times of its
own volume. Its use in cosmetics is comparatively less'
(3) Materials imparting slip and softneis : Slip is rhe quality of

easy spreading and application of powder to produce a characteristic
smooth feeling on the skin. This character is mainly obtained by using
talc, zinc and magnesium stearates,and aluminium hydrosilicate.
Talc is purified hydrated magnesiurn silicate (3MgO, 4SiO2, H2O).
The proportion of Mg and Si can vary. Talc is produced by different
countries but Italian, French and some lndian varieties are of very good
quality and most suitable for powders specifically face powders. Sometimes talc contains pathogenic spores, particularly tetanus, so properly
sterilized products are used in powder preparations. Talc is distinguished by its great softnessand slip and is almost neutral if adequately
purified. It is not to be used in open skin as in wounds it can cause
talcum granuomae. Talc cannot absorb any water.
,Alurninium hydrosilicate is a valuable basic material for powders It
is smooth and fatty. It should be prepared properly by trehting with
acid, washing with water and then dried. It also has certain cooling
effect. It absorbs fatty secretions and small amounts of water. lt is
completely non-toxic.
Ofher substancesused for softnessand slip are zinc stearate,magnesium stearate,zinc undecanate,magnesiumundecanate. The undecanates,
in particular, are soft and have excellent slip but are expensive. properly
purified stearatesare extensively used.
(4) Materials imparting absorbency characters : Powders should
have ability to eliminate shiny skin in certain facial areas by absorbing
sebaceoussecretions and perspiration. This character can be imparted
by incorporating material with high absorptive capacity in face powders,
dusting powders, baby powders, deodorant powders, foot powders etc.
Face powders should also have a certain absorbency to prevent srnudging of make-up by perspiration The rnaterialswhich impart this property
preferred less than magnesium carbonate.

various starches,like rice, wheat, corn, potato etc.,are comparatively
less used nowadays. It has good moisture absorbing and swelling
ability. It produces a sticky character but is completely non-toxic.
to get better effect.
not be used in excessof 30 Per cent.
aluminiurn,hronz*.
(7) Colourimg substances : These are substancesmainly used ill
Various
face powders and cornpastsbut not in dusting or baby powders'
used.
are
inorganic and organic pigments and certified organic lakes
26
Various synthetic or natural inorganic pigments used are iron oxides for
yellows, reds, and brov,,nsand ultramarine for green and blue. ;Toxic
lead and arsenic compounds are not used.
Organic lakes and pigments produce better brilliance but should be
selected from certified dyes.
The organic'pigments must not bleed in oil or water and should be
light-fast. phoice of colour is mainly users' taste. Various colours with
various shadesare used to fulfil the satisfaction ofthe users. The colour
of the thin film of the pigment may be different from the colour effect
given by the powder viewed in bulk.
(8) Perfumes : rrPerfume is an essential component of powders.
Users put more importance to perfume. But it should not be over
emphasized at the time of manufacturing. Normally the products are
perfumed lightly, particularly face powders and compacts. The odour
must be fragrant and pleasant.I Various perfumes or fragrance which are
used, either flowery fragrance or synthetic odour. Selection of proper
fra.grance is very vital for the products. Sometime combination of
fragrances gives a better appeal.
Compatibility of perfume with other constituents of the formulation
-is to be checked properly before use. Constituents of powder preparation may change the character of fragrance.
POWDER PRODUCTS
(1) FACE POWDERS
Face powder is an indispensable article of a lady's cosmetic range.
From the mask-like covering in ancient times to the natural look which
is the choice of the presentday, face powders have been and still rernain
one of the basics of the cosmetic industry.
A great deal of changes have taken place in face powder fashion
during the last couple of decades. Tinted, shiny, enhanced by our
modern cosmetics, the woman of today is able, with only modest effort,
to be more attractive than she has ever been in the past.
A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime
function the ability to complement skin colour by imparting a velvet
finish to it.
A good faie powder should produce a smooth t-rnishto the facial
skin, masking visible imperf'ectionsof the face and shine due to moisture
or grease from perspiration or secretion of sebaceousand sweat glands
or fron preparations used on the skin. The powder must produce a
Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
27
lasting effect, so that frequentapplicationis unnecessary.The preparation should make the face pleasantto look and touch. The degreeof
opacity can vary from opaque, in case of clown make-up,to almost
transparent.It must adhereto the skin and be reasonablyresistantto the
mixed secretions
of the skin.
since no singlematerialcan haveall the'requiredpropertiesdesired
in a facepowder,a mixture of different substancesis norrnallyemployed
to get the following essentialcharacteristic's
of a good product(a) Covering power : The ability to mask skin imperfectionssuch
as skin shine,enlargedporesand minor blemishes.
(b) Slip : The characterof spreadingover the skin without dragging,
and giving the characteristic
of smoothfeeling.
(c) Adhesiveness
: The ability to cling to the face.
(d) Absorbency : The ability to absorbskin perspirarionand oily
secretionwithout showingthe effectof suchabsorption.
(e) Bloom : The ability to imparta velvety,peach-likefinish to the
face skin.
(f) Colouring : To imparta coloureffectaccordingto the need.
(g) Perfuming : To produce a pleasantodour. The proportion of
variousingredientsusedcan be alteredto have slight variation
in the properties of the powder and their effect, but, as a
practice, f-acepowders are classified in to three categories
dependingon the natureofthe skin and correspondingly
cover_
ing ability requiredfrom the products.
(i) Light type
(ii) Mediumtype
(iii) Heavytype
Skin to be powderedcan be classifiedinto three categories:dry,
normal or moderatelyoily, and very oily.
(i) Light type : Dry skin requireslight powder, a powder of slight
covering power as dry skin secretesvirtually no oil and little
moisture.fhey normally contain large quantity of talc.
(ii) Medium type : Medium powders,having comparativelyhigher
coveringpower,are appliedto normal or moderatelyoily skins,
which are shinier due to skin secretions. They contain some_
what lessertalc and balancedby zinc oxide.
(iii) Heavy type : Heavy powdershave more coveringpower and are
used for extremelyoily skins which have a greatdeal of shine
28
and thus require great covering power. They normally contain

still lower quantity of talc and high quality of zinc oxide.
General preparation : The preparationof powdersis simple as it is
simply a matter of dry mixing of finely powderedmaterials. Add the
perfume with part of the absorbentmaterialslike calcium carbonateor
with magnesiumcarbonateand keep it aside for some time. Mix the
colour with part of the talc properly and add the other powdersand then
the perfume mixture. Mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk
mesh or an old washednylon cloth.
Formulae of Face Powders
POWDER WITH REDUCING COVERING POWER
Forihula I
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
I Calcium carbonate(light)
,Talc
Titanium dioxide
. Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Colour
Perfttme
5.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
57.3gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.5 gm
LIGHT POWDER
Formula2
Talc
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate(light)
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
63.0 gm
20.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
3
Formula
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Talc
Colour
Perfume
7.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
62.3 gm
0.3 gm
0.4 gm
29
Formuh4
79.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.3gm
0.3 gm
0.7-gm
Talc
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Colour
Perfume
MEDIUMPOWDER
Formula5
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Perfume
39.7 gm
39.5 gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.6 gm
Formula6
5.0 gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
15.0gm
15.0gm
47.2 gm
0.3 gm
0.5 gm
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Titaniumdioxide
Precipitatedchalk
Rice starch
Talc
Colour
r
Perfume
Fo r m u l a 7
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate
Talc
Colour
Perfume
15.0gm
17.5gm
20.0 gm
47.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.3 gm
HEAVY POWDER
For m ula8
Magnesium stearate
Kaolin (light)
Zinc oxide
5 . 0gm
20.0gm
l 5 . 0 gm
30
Talc
Colour
Perfume
39.0 gm
20.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.5 gm
For m ula 9
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Calciumcarbonate(light)
Kaolin (light)
Talc
Colour,
Perfume
5.0 gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
15.0gm
25.0 gm
34.0 gm
0.4 gm
0.6 gm
(2) COII{PACT FACE POWDER
3l
(a) Dry binders : They are metallic stearate-slike zinc stearate,

stearate'The use ofdry binders needs increasedpressurefor
magnesium
firm compacting.
and
(b) Oil binders : Oils such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate'
commaking
for
agents
lanolin derivatives are widely used as binding
pact powders.
prevent
pact powders. A preservative is essential in gum medium to
rnicrobiological growth in the preparations'
(d) Water-repellant binders : These are widely used in compact
lanolin
fa"" io*d"rs and include mineral oil, various fatty esters, and
aid in
to
derivatives in combination with a considerableamount of water
agent may
the formation of a smooth, solidly pressedcake' A wetting
throughout
also be incorporatedto help to uniformly distribute moisture
the powder.
Methods of PreParation
I
B asi cal l ythreem et hods. of pr epar at ionof com pact f acepowder sar e
adopted.
t s int lin g a g e n ts :T h e b i n c l e rs u s e d i n compactpow dersareseveral i n

nurnber'. "l'he1'can be ciassified into five types-(a) DrY trit'rdi:rs
(b) {)i1 bindq:rs
qc) Water-soluble binders
binders
(cl) Vy'nter-rePellant
ie) kirnulsi'llnbinders
(l )W etmetho d: lnt hism et hodbasicm at er ials, colour sand

and airUinieis are kneaded into a paste with water, pressed into moulds
other
and
cracks
produce
can
it
as
dried slowly. It is not much used
lbults.
anolamine stearate with lanolin and cetyl alcohol'
33
\
32
(3) Damp method : In this method the base powder, colour and
perfume are mixed uniformly. The mixture is then wetted down with
liquid binders like aqueousmucilagesor mucin rich o/w emulsion
binders and blended until the proper plasticity of the mass is attaine(.
The powder is then screenedan/ compressedby machineand dried ht
elevatedtemperature. This method is a widely acceptedmethod and is
usedcommercially.
FORMULAE OF SOME BINDERS
Formula l0
Gum Arabic
Glycerol
Water
Preservative
1.0 gm
5.0 gm
94.0 gm
q.s.
Formulall
Gum tragacanth
Glycerol monostearate
Mineral oil
Sorbitol
Water
Preservative
2.0 gm
6.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
83.0 gm
'q.s
Formula12
Gum tragacanth
Glucose
Water
Preservative
Formula13
Mineral oil
Polyoxyethylenestearate
Water
Preservative
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
93.0 gm
q.s.
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
97.0 gm
q.s.
Formulae of Conpact Face Powders

Apart from the formulae mentionedin face powders,which can be
convertedto compactby using suitablebinder, the following additional
formulae are suggested. As the amount of binder, colour and perfume
will vary accordingto need,they are not mentionedin specific amount.
COMPACTS
Ch-3 POWDERS AND
Formulr l4
Talc
Kaolin
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formule 15
Talc
Calcium carbonate
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formulr16
Talc
Kaolin
Chalk, PreciPitated
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formula17
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
Formuhl8
Talc
Mica
Titanium dioxide or mica
69.0 gm
18.0gm
t.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s..
q.s.'
q.s.
79.0 gm
9.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s.
60.0 gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
12.0gm
4.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
62.0 gm
ll.0 gm
14.0gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
70.0gm
20.0gm
10.0gm
35
34
Colour
Binder
Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula"lg
Talc
Syntheticpeari
Titanium dioxide
Zinc stearate
Colour
Binder
Perfume
54.0 gm
10.0gm
30.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
(3) BODY POWDERS

Amongst the various cosmetics, body powder is one of the widely
consumed cosmetic preparations. Body powders are also
known as
talcum powders or dusting powders. They are used for multiple
purposes. The main use of body powders or talcum powders
is to absorb
moisture or perspiration specifically after bathing particularly
in warmer
countries. These also provide good slip, a cooring effect and
efficient
lubrication, and prevent i'itation of skin due to chafing. The
very fine
particie size of these covers cause a rarge surface ur.u p".
unit weight
and can cover a large body area which results in strong -light
dispersion
and therefore visual covering of the skin underneath. The
surface
covered by the powders is much more than the surface uncovered
which
leads to a cooling effect if the ingredients of the powder have good
heat
conductivity. These fine powder particles with light weight'adhere
to
the skin by the stickiness of the fat film. Noimally,lhey
contain
covering material, adhesives, absorbency material, slip, antiseptics
and
perfumes.
Body powdersconsistmainry of talc, with smail proportionsof a

metallic stearate,like zinc stearate,aluminium stearate,etc., and precipitated calcium carbonate(chrilk) or magnesiumcarbonate(right).
For
antiseptic action boric acid, chlorohexidinediacetate,bithionll
ur"
usedto suppressproliferationof microorganisms
responsiblefor"t".
devel:
opment of perspiration odour. Talcum powders containing antiseptic
substances
are also usedfor prickly heatand fungusinfectiois.
Absorbencycharacteristicis impartedby the inclusion of kaolin,
magnesiumcarbonate,precipitatedchalk and starch. Slip will be conferred by talc, zinc stearate. The presenceof kaorin, zinc oxide
or
AND COMPACTS
Ch.3 POWDERS
characteristic'
contributes to adhesive
magnesium stearate
Colour is not
o."--din bodY Powders'

ploperly and keep it
GeneralPreParations
with
oil
Mix the perfume
'nug"&iu'n -carbonate
i"i*,"::1, tt' iT'""'$"1$1:

iderorsometime''#,,';;;;
as
m *i*:
carbonate to thls
the perfumed magneslum
and Pack it in contatners'
BODY POWDER
FORMULAE OF
Formula20
75.0 gm
10.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
Talc
c6ttoiaAkaolin
Colloidal silica
Magnesium carbonate
Aluminium steafate
Boric acid
Perfume
Formula2l
Talc
Calcium carbonate
,Zinc stearate
Boric acid
Perfume oil
Formula22
Satinex
Talc
carbonate (light)
ri"gn..iut
Boric acid
Perfumeoil
Formula23
Zinc stearate
oxide
Zinc
"f"rug"tti
urn carbonate(li ght)
Tale
Perfume
Formula24
Zinc oxide
(light)
Cui"i"* carbonate
70.0 gm
25.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.3 gm
0.7 gm
6.0 gm
88.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.3gn
0'7 gm
5'0 gm
5.0 gm
15'0 gm
74.5 gm
0'5 gm
4.0 gm
8.0 gm
36
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
Talc
Perfume
87.5 gm
0.5 gm
DEODORANTPO}VDERS
Formulr 25
Zinc oxide
5.0 gm
Zinc stearate
5.0 gm
Chlorhexidinediacetate
0.3 gm
10.0gm
Talc
79.3 gm
Perfume
0.4 gm
Formula26
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
Bithional
Calciumcarbonate(light)
Talc
Perfume
10.0gm
5.0 gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
79.2 gm
0.3 gm
BABY POWDERS
Formula22
Talc
Magnesiurnstearate r
Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Boric acid
Perfumeoil
87.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
2.5 gm
0.5 gm
Formula2t
Talc
Kaolin
Magnesiumstearate
Boric acid
Satinex
Perfumeoil
70.0 gm
20.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
3.0 gm
0.5 gm
Talc
Kaolin
Boric acid
Satinex {
Perfumeoil
Formula 29
84.0 gm
10.0gm
3.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
37
(.h.3 POWDERS
AND COMPACTS
MEDICATED DUSTING POWDERS
Formule 30
SodiumproPanedioate7
Talc
Boric acid
20.0gm
78.0gm
2.0 gm
FOOT POWDERS
Formulr 3l
Boric acid
Kaolin
Talc
Menthol
Formule 32
Boric acid
Starch
Talc
10.0gm
44.5 gm
45.0 gm
0.5 gm
I1.0 gm
20.0 gm
69.0 gm z
Evrluation
of variouspowder productsparticularly
Evaluationand assessment
judge the quality of the
loose face powders,compactsare essentialto
at differentlevels.onthe
finishedproducts. Intensivetestingsare done
include.tests
q""iiry of the products. Tests tuti b" thorough and must
apparentdensity'moisturecontent'limits
ilipunitf" size,abrasiveness'
for colour, etc.
extensiveand
Apart from the common test of contentdetermination'
contro|ledstabilitytestarecarriedouttodeterminethattheformulated
time during shelfproJuct will remain stable for an extendedperiod of
stability test can be
life. For this purpose' if necessary,accelerated
for face powdersand
carriedout. other testswhich are doneparticularly
compactsthe are the followingdetermine
(1) Shadc control and lighting : This is to control and
and with the standardthe variation of colour shadeiom batch to batch
Prop.rtestistobedonetopreventvariationinshades'Onesuch
of the body of the powder with
methodis comparisonof tn. appearance
a white paper backa standardwhen it is spreadout *a flattened on
of the sample
comparison
is
evaluation
ground. The otheiln"iftod of
be applied
should
Powders
undertone.
with the standardby skin tone or
the final
is
This
pack'
finished
for
bt ;; samepuff tlat is to be used
colour
for
used
is
lighting
j,rOJ"rn"n for the shade test' Artificial
dvaluation.
38
A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(2) Dispersion of colour': Colour should be homogeneouslydistributed in the powder base. There should not be segregationor bleeding of
colour. This can be tested by spreading the powder on a white paper
and checking it with a magnifoing glass.
(3) Pay-off : The pay-off character,i.e., adhesion with the puff, of a
compact or pressed powder should be tested on the skin. High pressure
will make the cake so hard that the poryder will not rub off the cake
easily enough and thus there will be insufficient adhesion of the material
to the puff. Too low pressure will make the cake soft and thus have a
tendenoy to crumble and break.
(4) Pressure testing : Pressure applied to compact powder should
be uniform to prevent air pocket and thus breaking or cracking. Uniformity of the hardness can be tested by penetrometer. Reading on
hardness is checked, at various points of compact tablet to see the
uniformity of hardness.
(5) Breakage test : This is carried out by dropping the compact
tablet of powder on a wooden surface several times from a height of 8 to
10 inches and checking the breakage or clipping of the compact. If the
cake is unbroken it is indication of the resistance asainst travel and
normal handling.
(6) Flow property : This is very important, particularly for body
powders as they should come out easily from the containelfor easy
application. This can be studied by measuring angle of repose of
powder product by allowing to fall on a plate from a funnel and
measuring the height and radius of heap formed. Also, the powder may
be allowed to fall from a funnel and noting the time taken.
(7) Particle size and abrasiveness : Particle size can be determined
by microscope, sieve analysis or by using sophisticated instruments and
techniques. Abrasiveness can be studied by rubbing the powders on a
smooth surf'ace and then studying the effect on the surface using microscope.
(8) Moisture content and limits for colour : These can be estimated by using suitable analytical methods.
CHAPTER-4
Skin Colorants
an ancientpractice
Colouring skin, particularly skin of face and lips' is
the use of.such
days'
present
In
going Uit to irehistoric period'
texture' lustre
colours'
of
shaded
of
iroAi.t, has increasedand choice
from the
observed
be
can
This
ir"ve been changedand becomewider'
to
colours
of
shades
of
fact that lipsticls are marketed in hundreds
satisff the demandsof women"
Apartfromnormaldailylife,skincolorantsarealsousedfordrama'
ci."us,danceetc'Thepresentchapterwillbasicallydiscusstwospecific
skin colorants.
(1) LiPsticks
(2) Rouge
are
The skin colorantsare also called as'Beauty Aids'but-they
is
colorants
skin
of
differentfrom other cosmetics. The sole purpose
cosother
whereas
;il;;;,i"t of appearancefor enhancedattractiveness'
or promotion of the
meticshave other specific functionsof maintenance
skin health along with or without decorativefunctions'
skin' Decorative
Skin colorantsor beautyaids must not damagethe
of aging'
preparationsare used to tride small blemishesor symptoms
demonstrate
and
:fhay ur. also usedto createa well-groomedappearanpe
to attract opposite
the desireto impressupon others. They are applied
as psychological'
sexandto be noticedupon. The motivescan be termed
pleasantlyfragrant'
Manufacturerstry to make these as decorative,
main activeingredicoloured,non-tackyand harmlessas possible' The
are also essentialto
ent in such preparationsis dye but oiher materials
and auxiliary
hold the dyainlhe preparationsand for easeof application
effects.
(l) LIPSTICKS
usedby women'
Lipsticks,also termedas lip cosmetics,are widely
that they
decades
of
couple
last
f ,iprtrcf.shave become,o popul"t in the
40
cosmetic-product' Its
are now probably usedmore than any other single
flooded
b" gauged from the fact that market has been
popularity
of productswith hundredsof shades'
,riift pf"nty""n
matter in a base
Lipsticks are basically dispersions of colouring
waxei suitably perfulned
consistingof a suitableUienaof oils, fats, and
in a'case'
n"uo-ur"d,moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed
glossy and moist
-J
Lipstick is usedto impart an attractivecolour' and
the
to the lips, accentuatingtheir good points and disguising
lips can be made to
"pp"riun""
O""l*,t. By properiy applying a iipstick broader
look as broad lips' An
look as nalrow or narrow^lipsmay be changedto
the apparent facial
change
ini"ffig"ntly applied lipstick can totally
lips which
chapp-ing.of
and
upp""i"""". It'also helpsto preventcracking
also
lipsticks
for
used
base
can lead to the Uacteiial infection' The
producesan emollient action'
LipskinSkinofthelipsischaracterizedbyanexceptionallythin
developedand the
corneal layer. The stratumlerminativum is strongly
just
below the surface'
rlood content
are very much
glands
ls but salivary
of the lips'
moisture
the
ra maintain
entirely
almost
are
lips
sparsely,the
to dry
tends
layer
comeal
free from fat. In very cold or dry weatherthe
very
is
lips
ofthe
layer
out and producecracled lips' Sincethe corneal
on
applied
substances
thin, and further, crackedin ary condition' alien
is
This
germinativum'
the lips can quite easily penetrateto-the stratum
ingrediand selecting
;l*"i, to be kept in mind while making lipsticks
ents for it.
characteristics:
Characters A lipstick should have the following
gloss and last for
(l) It should cover the lips adequatelywith some
long time.
(2) It should make the iiPs soft'
being brittle and
(3) The film must adherefirmly to the lips without
tackY.
(4) It shouldhave a good degreeof indelibility'
without any
(5) It should have high retention of colow intensity
changein shade'
be non-drying'
(6) It shouldbe completelyfree from grittinessand
(7) It should be non-initating to the skin of lips'
('h..
SKIN COLORANTS
4l
(E) It shouldhave a desirabledegreeofplasticity'
(e) It shouldhave a pleasantodour and flavour'

have the following
Apart from the above, a lipstick should also
llorage characteristics:( l) A smoothand shinYaPpearance'
(2) Freedomfrom bloom or sweating'
of
(3) A suitable degree of firmness during reasonablevariations
climatic temPerature'
(4) Retain plasticity without any tendencyto dry out or crumble'
.,lltT'oli.ti#
mainrv
rhestick
composition
frltTilt'*:T::
:d melting Point and viscositY' The

between36oC to 38'C with liPs
rf the liPstick must have a melting
between55"C to 75oC PreferablY
|andexPosureto hot climates'
'l'he basic raw materials required for formulating lipsticks can be
classifiedas(l) Wax mixture
(2) Oil mixture
(3) Bromo mixture
(4) Colours
fragrances,surfactantsand other additives
(5) Preservatives,
(l) Waxes
thl characGloss and hardnessof lipsticks are largely dependent9n
the compositionof the wax
toristicsand quantityof the waxesused' So'
mixtureisofprimeimportance.Bestcharacteristicscanbeobtainedby
and adjustingthe
mixture of *u*", of different melting points
;*i";
melting
"
point by incorporatinga sufficient amount of high
iinoirn"fting"Various
lipsticks'
in
used
are
waxy materials
l,ii", **'
and useful cornponentof
(a) White beeswax : It is an-iTpgf*
It usefullybinds oils and
llpstick basewith *"tting point of 62-64'C'
of the total formula' It
10%
to
high melting point waxesl it is u'ed in 3
mouldedproducts' At
of
rhrinks on cooling and thus helps preparation
and causesthe
appearance
higher concentrationii producesa dull waxy
rticks to crumbleduring use'
65-6.9'Cand is used
(b) Candelilla wax : It has a meltingpoint of
is very good for
ln 5-10%. A mixture of candelilla** "ttd beeswax
42
making lipstick. If candelillawax is used a little in excessthan beeswax

the product gets a smooth and glossy appearance.
(c) Carnauba wax : It increasesthe melting point of the base and
hardens the lipstick. It needs to be used in small amounts' It brings an
attractive lustre to the product. It's melting point is 80 to 88"C.
(d) Ozokerite wax : It is also mainly used to increasethe melting
point of the base. It melts at 60-80"C and is used in 3-l0o/o' If it is used
in excess the sticks tend to crumble during application.
(e) Ceresin wax : it is also called paraffrn wax or mineral wax. It's
melting point is 60-75oC and is used in about 5Yo to increase melting
point.
(f) Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol : These two substances
are used in small amounts, in 2-3o/o,in the lipstick for emollient action
on the lip skin. The melting points are 45-50"C and 42'45"C respectively.
At higher concentration (above 5%) they give a dull appearanceto the
lipstick which develops to a 'bloom' on storage. High concentration
also leads to crystal formation, on storage,on the surface of the stick"
(2) oils
The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. It also acts as a solvent
for eosin dyestuffs or as a dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. An
ideal rnixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and
produces a thin film with good covering power.
(a) Castor oil : Castor oil is used in many lipsticks becauseof its
good qualities, though nowadays some other oils or solvents are being
used. A refined grade castor oil is of good colour and is odourless and
tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticising agent. An antioxidant is
to be added to the castor oil against rancidification though it is not as
prone to rancidification aS other vegetable oils like olive oil or almond
oil. High viscosity of castor oil makes the dispersion of pigments long
stable during the mixing and moulding stages of manufacture. Normaliy, about 40-50% of castor oil is used. But when a higher proportion
is used the proporlion of high melting point waxes needs to be ad.iusted
to get a high melting point base mixture.
(b) Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters : This alcohol and
its esters like acetate, stearate, ricinoleate are also used in lipstick
preparation. The acetate has very good solvent prclperty for the eosin
dye. But the volatile property of the solvent can lead to smudging of the
outline by evaporation from the hotter inner surface and deposition on
t'h 4 liKrNcoLoRANTS
43
lhc cooler edges. The acetate has an unpleasant taste and odour. But
tlourate and ricinoleate are lood and non-volatile but their solvent
ptopcrty is a little less.
(c) Fatty acid alkaylamides : They are non-volatile and have no
rrrrgrlcasant
taste or odour. They increasethe stability of the lipsticks but
do rrot have emollient action. They help in dispersing the pigments.
(d) Paraflin oil : It is used in not more than 5To to give a glossy
Hpl)caranceafter application. In higher proportion the oil will come off
llrc lips and run around the lips. It also acts as lubricant to facilitate
rerrrovalof sticks from the moulds after pouring.
(c) Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate :
llresc are also used to facilitate smooth application. Due to their low
rrrrlirce tension they have a good wetting effect on insoluble dyes and
pigrncnts,and also act as mutual solvents for oils and waxes. Presence
ol hinders is required to incorporate isopropyl myristate, otherwise it
trruyseparateout becauseof its low surfacetension.
Apart from the waxes and oils, sometime fats are incorporated in the
llJrslicksto serve the purpose of giving more body to the film on the lips,
rrrroothingthe skin of the lips or softeningit. It also helps in dispersion
ol'irrsoluble pigments. The substanceswhich are normally incorporated
sle cocoa butter (theobroma oil), hydrogenatedvegetable fats.
'l'hc use of acetoglycerideshas also been recommendedin lipsticks
to
Irrrprovethixotropic properties of sticks and to maintain constantviscoslly cvcn in higher temperature. They also improve the plasticity of the
fl l ttron the l i ps.
(l) Rromo Mixture
'l'he bromo mixture is, essentially,a solution of the staining
dyestuff
Itr n fatty material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or
gtnrtinllyin solution. Apart from the fatty rnaterials mentioned earlier,
carluin other fatty materials have a specific function as a constituent of
hrurno mixture. This is the portion of the product which imparts an
Itrrlclible stain as distinct from the opaque film of colour given by
Inroluble pigments. As the present-daychoice is the product with high
rteining qualities instead of the product whioh covers the lips with a
lltlck film of vividly coloured materials, bromo mixture is widely used.
'l'hc
dyestuff of bromo mixture, known as bromo acids, consists of
fluuresceins,halogenatedfluoresceins and related water insoluble dyes.
(l ri gi nal l y the br om o acid nam e was given t o acid eosin,
telrnhromofluorescein. Bromo acid colours can be classified broadlv
44
Ch.4 SKIN COLORANTS
45
stain,
into two groups,thosewhich are red and give a red or reddish-blue
yellowish-pink
give
pink
a
to
stain.
and thosewhich are orange,red and
In general,lipstick formulationsare not high stainingtypes,about2-37o
of bromoacid is used,normally,in castoroil and butyl stearatemixture.
Also their water solubility character poses problem for formulation.

llut when water soluble dyes are converted to the free sulpho acid form,
tltoy become water-insoluble, lipophillic and suitable for use as staining
dycs.
Other solventsused are tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol and esterslike

acetate, stearateand benzoate,glycerol derivatives like glyceryl
glyceryl monolaurateand diethyleneglycol monostearate.
monostearate,
Propyleneglycol, triethyleneglycol and polyethyleneglycol are also
usedas suitablecolour solvents.
(b) Insoluble dyestuffs and lake colours : These are the colouring
ngentswhich cover the thin layer over the lips. They consist of calcium,
hnrium, aluminium and strontium lakes. Calcium and barium lakes
prcpared from azotype dyestuffs are also used. These are called lake
frttrcrs. These dyestuffs are used in 10-15% depending on the shade and
opncity of the film. Aluminium lakes are not usually preferred because
ol'lheir lack of opacity, but they can be used in transparentlipsticks.
A typical exampleof bromo mixture is given below:

15 gm
Bromo acid
200 gm
Propyleneglycol
100 gm
Propyleneglycol monomyristate
First a clear solution of bromo acid and propylene glycol is tq be
made by adding the bromo acid to propylene glycol. To this solution
propylene glycol monomyristate is to be added. This blend gives a
solution of bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil and castor oil
and produces a homogeneousmass with waxes.
(4) Colours
The colour of the lipstick is most important from commercial and
appealing points of view. Up to 1920 carmine was widely used as a
lipstick pigment. As of today lots of dyestuffs and lakes are available to
choose from.
The colour is imparted to the lips in two ways(a) By staining the skin with a srclution of dyestuff which can
penetratethe outer layer of the lip skin.
(b) By covering the lips with a coloured layer which serves to hide
any skin roughness and give a smooth appearance,
The first requirement is met by soluble dyes and the second one is
met by insoluble dyes and pigments which make the film more or less
opaque. Modern lipsticks contain both to achieve the combined effect.
The colours should be from the list of certified dyes under the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act.
(a) Staining dyes : The rnost widely used staining dyes are
fluorescein, eosin and often halogenated fluorescein, which have been
mentioned under bromo acids. Fluorescein and its derivatives can
produce sensitization or photosensitization leading to cheilitis (inflammation of the red portinn of the lips).
While making of lakes, the possibility of incompatibility with the

hnsehas to be considered.
'l'itanium dioxide is often used at levels up to lYo as white pigment
tirr brightening the colour, obtaining pink shades,and giving opacity to
thc llhn on the lips. This substanceshould be added with great care to
nvoid formulation problems like oily exudation, streaking, dullness and
coarsetexture.
(5) I'reservatives, Fragrances, Surfactants and Other Additives
It is very much essentialto include a preservative in the product to
Itrcvcnt microbial growth. 0. l% propyl parahydroxybenzoate,in 0.1%o,
ic used for this purpose. Higher concentration of 0.2o/ocan cause a
rlightly burning sensation or can initiate an eosin allergic reaction.
Otlrer oil soluble preservativesalso can be used but compatibility has to
he considered.
Perfumesare an essential component to mask the odour of the fatty
lft wix baseas well as to impart an attractive flavour. Perfumesare used
Itt the concentration runge of 2-4%. Special considerationis to be given
kr sclect perfurnesfree of irritating effect and without disagreeabletaste
Ettd flavour. Since the users apprehendthe perfume in the mouth and
nosc, flavour must be taken care of along with odour. Perfume should
hc stable and compatible with the other constituentsof the lipstick base.
'l'ltr, fiagrancesshould not
be very strong as to clash with or overpower
ollrcr perfumes that may be used concurrently with the lipstick. Floral
etttl light spicy fragranceare much used and acceptable. Perfumesof the
lirrit flavour type have been advocated as well. Also something edible
cntt be used.
Normally antioxidants are also suggested to be incorporated in
lipstick formulations to prevent rancidifioation of oily base during stor-
46
age. Cornbination of proper antioxidants are preferred for this purpose.

Antioxidants commonly used in lipsticks are butylated hydroxyanisore
(BHA), propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), citric acid,
2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone etc.
Surfactants are occasionally added to the lipstick. They are used to
promote wetting and stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in the
base. But such additives may influence the consistencyof the stick.
Some other materials have been suggested for use as additives to
enhance the value of the make-up. oil-soluble sun-screensare used to
filter the suns rays and protect lips from sun blisters. A silicon fluid can
be used as a fixative and to prevent colours from bleeding on the lips.
Polyvinyl pyrolidone is known "to form film on the lips and reduce
tendency towards allergenic reaction and is used in 0.5 to l%o. It also
helps in binding of dyestuff. Isopropyl linoleate is used to prevent
drying effects.
General Preparation of Lipsticks
Successful preparation of lipstick shades depends largely upon
adequate dispersion of the lake colours in the lipstick mass. It is
advisable to preparedispersionsof the lake colours in castor oil. Dispersions are preferably preparedby milling, generally as25Yoconcentrations,
in castor oil. Also ready-made dispersions are available in the market
from manufacturersof cosmetic colours.
A general outline for the manufacture of lipsticks followsIf a solvent is used for bromo acid, this solution is first prepared and
set aside until required. If commercial colour pastes (as mentioned
above) are not being used the lake colours are first dispersedby mixing
with suitable quantity (as 25%ow/w) of castor oil, and the colour paste
obtained is passedthrough a triple roll mill until it is smooth and free
from agglomeratesand gritty particles. If titanium dioxide is used in the
formula, the same is also made into a paste similarly and mixed with the
colour mix. The colour mixtrlre is then mixed with the bromo-acid
mixture. All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in
order of increasing melting point. The lower melting point fats and
waxes are next melted together and mixed with colours and bromo
mixtures at the same temperature. This mixture is re-milled until
perfectly smooth. The preservative and antioxidant is dissolved in any
remaining oil and added to the mix. The high melting point waxes are
now melted and added to the bulk at the same temperature. The perfume
is f-rnally added anul the mass stirred thoroughly blrt gently to avoid
('lr 4 SKINCOLORANTS
47
enlrilpmentof air. The mass should not be melted after the high melting
point waxes have been added. Gentle stirring is coritinued until the mass
lr lurrnogeneousand it is then poured in lubricated moulds.
Automatic ejection mould is preferable for large quantities and split
trrouldsare satisfactory for small-scaleproduction. The mould is lubriurtcd with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before'pouring the
rnnss. No excess lubricant should be left in the mould surface. The
ttrixcd mass should be poured into the mould at as low a temperatureas
ltrssible to prevent settling down of colours. Also the moulds may be
wnlrned before pouring the mass to avoid formation of ridges. After
porrling the mass the moulds are chilled to achieve contraction of the
wnxcs to facilitate easy removal of the sticks.
Automatic ejection moulds are fitted with a water iacket which is
lqctl to warrn or chill the mould as required.
l ,l l tsti ck Formul ae
scveral representativelipstick formulae are listed below. Each forrrrrlrrcan be modified by a slight modification in proportions of oils and
tvnxcsand other ingredientsto adjust proper melting point, spreadability,
nrrtl thickness of the film on the lips according to the particular characf*r'islics required. The formulae can vary in proportions of lake colours
enrl bromo acids. Titanium dioxides may or may not be part of the
lorrrrrrladependingon the requirement. perfume, preservativeand antirrrrirlnntshould be added in proper quantity to achieve the best effect.
For m ulaI
Castor oil
Lanolin, anhydrous
Candelilla wax
Isopropyl myristate
White beeswax
Carnauba wax
Ozokerite wax
Eosin
Lakes
Rose flavour
Antioxidant
Preservative
54.0 gm
11.0gm
9.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula2
Beeswax
Ozokerite wax
15.0gm
10.0gm
48
Carnaubawax
Ceresinwax
Lanolin
Lanolin, anhydrous
Isopropylmyristate
Diethyl sebacate
Castoroil
Eosin
Colour lakes
Antioxidant
Perfume
Preservative
Formula3
Camauba wax
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax (white)
Bepswax, yellow
Paraffin
Hexadecyl stearate
Castor oil
Lanolin oil
Oleyl alcohol
Tenox II
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
5.0 gm
14.0gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
15.0gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
3.5 gm
7.5 gm
3.5 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
8.0 gm
15.4gm
30.0 gm
15.0gm
0.1 gm
10.0gm
1.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 4
Castoroil
Beeswax
Paraffin oil
Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropylmyristate
Ozokeritewax
Carnaubawax
Propyleneglycol
Propyleneglycolmonoricinoleate
Eosin
27.0 em
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
5.0 gm
2"0 gm
3.0 gm
10.0gm
2.5 gm
11.0gm
4.0 gm
2.5 gm
-l
49
T'h 4 SKIN COLORANTS
l0'0 gm
Colour
q's'
Perfume
q's'
Antioxidant
q's' .
Preservative
properties'
l'lrc aboveproductis non-greasytype with good staining
Formula5
Castor oil
Beeswax
Lanolin
Isopropyl mYristate
Ozokerite wax
Carnauba wax
Propylene glYcol
Candelilla wax
Glycerin monostearate
Acetylated monoglyceride (solid)
Acetylated monoglyceride (liquid)
Eosin
Colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
39.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
7.0 gm
3.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Fo.mula6
wax
Carnauba
Candelilla wax
Ozokerite wax
Beeswax
Lanolin
Castor oil
IsoproPYl mYristate
Halogenatedfl uorosceins
Lake colours
Propyl-p-hYdroxY benzoate
Perfume
2.50 gm
6.00 gm
2.50gm
6.00 gm
8.00 gm
55.00gm
4.00 gm
3.00 gm
12.00gnt
0.20 gm
0.80gm
Formula7
Castor oil
Butyl stearate
Abracol l.S.L.
Emulsenel2l2
15.0gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
2.0 gm
50
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS;
Beeswax
Spermaceti
Petroleumjelly
Hydrogenated palm kernel oil
Acid eosin
Titanium dioxide
Lake colour
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
20.0 gm
10.0gm
12"0gm
15.0gm
1.0gm
1.0gm
12.0gm
q.s.
q.s
q.s.
(2) ROUGE
,.Rouge can be defined as the cosmetic preparations
used to apply a
colour to the cheeks. lThe colour can vary
from the pur"rt orpint, to tt
deep blue reds but the conventionar roug"
contains a high proportion of"
red or reddish brown pigments. The tint
or colour may be achieved by
us ing wate r-i n s o l u b l e c o ro u rs s u c h
as i ron oxi des and certai n
organic pigments or by using water-sorubre
organic colours which actually stain the skin. products containi
colours are used as toners for specii
should be selected carefully to avo
proportion of a suitable bromo acir
and attractive blushing effect.
Over the years lots of changes have occurred
in rouge composition.
Ancient people used to colour their cheeks
with a .olot, ,"u**"d o,
cinnabar'
people started using red ochre, vermitiorr,'"oct
ineat or
extracts of-Later
sandalwood or brazilwood. In the early
tweniies the tiquid
rouges' dry rouges or greaserouges basicaily
containing i"."'ni.",
etc. were used.
"ori",
One of the oldest forms of rouge is the type
known as cream rouge.
I,T^:od"rl rouge preparations the pigments
or corours are present in
different form of carriers unrt uc"ordingry
can be classified into four
types but dry rouge is the most .o-rnoJy
und *id.ly ur.a fp"_
(l) Powder rouges
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based
rouges
(3) Emulsion cream rouges
(4) Liquid rouges
(l) Powder rouges :r-powderrouges
are normally marketed as loose
powders and compressedpowders or
compacts. They contain pigments
5I
i,h 4 IiKINCOLORANTS
talc,
nrrrl lakes in dry form, mixed with standardpowder materials like
additionally
rouges
Compact
carbonate.
magnesium
and
rirr: stcarate
rilrrtlrin a binder and are compressedin tablet form. Compact rouges are
Irrolc popular than loose powder becausethey dust less on application
nrrrlrrtlherebetter to the skin dtte to presenceof binders'
According to the intensity of the pigment and the intended colouring
the
ellct:t of the powder, the pigment content is usually 5 to 20Yo of
by
replaced
partly
or
wholly
sometimes,
are,
lrrw(lor mass. Pigments
in
lesser
used
are
and
effect
colour
intense
i'kes which produce more
rilrrrrrtities.Rouges, sometimes,additionally contain water-soluble dyes'
stain
IrEtrlrrblecolorants remain on the skin, whereas, the soluble ones
Some
non-permanent.
and
loose
tlre skin tissue itself. Stain should be
given
lllrrstrative examples of powder rouges and compact rouges are
l rr' l ow :
lrreparation Add the perfume with magnesium carbonateor starch
rrr'otlrer adsorbent,mix properly and keep it covered for half an hour'
Mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin'
carbonate and then the required colour' Mix
Arld the
-ugn"rirand store in a suitable oontainer'
llrrrroughly
FOWI}ER ROUGE,S
For m ulaI
Zinc stearate
Rice starch
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
14.5gm
14.5gm
55.0gm
14.0gm
2.0 gm
FormulaJMagnesium carbonate (light)

Precipitated chalk
Zinc oxide
Rice starch
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
8.3 gm
16.6 gm
8.3 gm
12.4 gm
37.4 gm
15.0gm
,.9 E!
Formula p
Zinc oxide
Lanolin
8.5 gm
25.5 gm
52
Magnesiumcarbonate(light)
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
17.0gm
34.0 gm
13.0gm
2.0 gm
Formula l l
Kaolin
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumstearate
Zinc stearate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Talc
Colours
Perfume
16.0gm
12.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0gm
3.0 gm
60.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
Compact rouges can be made by dry process or wet process. In dry

process the powdered binder, such as tragacanth, acacia, is
added in the
mix and compressed. The binder is used as l% of the total mass. As
an
alternative binding material small amounts of a lanolin derivative
and
isopropyl myristate can be used. Zinc oxide is also used, in 5-r0yo,
to
increase adhesion. Metallic stearatesare arso essential components
of
compact rouges as dry binders and to increase adhesion of the products
to the skin.
In wet process the binding agent is prepared separatelyand is made
of materials like tragacanth gum, a mixture of soap and tragacanthgum,
and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. The binding agent is mixed with
other
materials and compressedto cake.
Formula12
Talc
Kaolin
Zinc stearate
Zinc oxide
Magnesiumcarbonate
Rice starch
Titanium dioxide
Colours
Perfume
48.0 gm
16.0gm
6.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
4.0 gm
6.0 gm
q.s.
Mix the perfume with magnesium carbonate and keep aside with
cover. Mix other ingredients thoroughly. Add magnesium carbonate
and mix. Add colour and mix and then compress.
t,h"{
53
SKIN COLORANTS
Formul*!l'
Kaolin
Calcium carbonate
Magnesiumcarbonate
Zinc stearate
Talc
Pigments
Perfume
Binder
5.0 gm
5.0 grn
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
75.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
BINDER
IsopropYlmYristate
Lanolin absorPtionbase
50/o wlw
50ohwlw
perfume with magnesrum

Mix the binding materials together' Mix
Add to the remaining
materials'
lnrhonate and add ,o tt'" bindilng
godets'
into
compress
irrgrcclientsand mix well' Grind and
formulae of dry rouges
l;or compactsby wet process,any of the basic
agents:
binding
r urr hc mixed with the following
l '0 gm
Tragacanth
2'0 gm
Alcohol
97'o gm
Water
o/oof the above
0'2
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
add water in a continuous
Mix the tragacanth with alcohol and then
with stining occasionhours
24
blrcunl and stir well. Allow to stand for
be dissolved in water
is
to
nlly, and pass through muslin' Preservative
wiilr hcat before adding to the tragacanth'
l '3 gm
Tragacanth
gm
4'o
Soa! chips
gm
94'7
water
o/o
above
the
of
0'2
chips with suffrcient hot
Itropare a concentrated solution of the soap
paste' Add the remaining
wrrlcr atrd use this to-prepare a tragacanth
wrrlcr in a continuous stream and mix well'
occasionally' and pass
Allow to stand tbr 24 hours with stining
preservativein water with the
tlrrorrghmuslin before use' Dissolve the
mix'
,ri,l ,,1 heat before adding to the soap tragacanth
'l'lrc binding agent is added, in sufficient amount' to the coloured
pressed into
a fairly damp paste' This is then
lrowtlcr mix to prepare
or
pressure moulded to
gorlcls hy subjecting it to a graOuatty increasing
at normal temperature in a
e rlclinite shape' The Uio"tti are thln dried
i'i
54
A HANDBOoKoF cosMETrcs
current of air. Undue heating should be avoided as it can split thc

product and can vaporize the perfume. During drying they are kept on
blotting paper to absorb excess moisture. After drying they are trimmecl
with a special rotating knife to give a perfectly smooth finish to the
surface. Then they are stuck with a suitable adhesive to the base of the
container.
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based rouges : In this type the
base is wax type. They resemble the lipstick but are normally of bigger
size. In these rouges the colours are dispersed in a fat-oil-wax base.
They have advantages over powder rouges. They form a coniinuou,
film on the skin which looks more natural than loose powder;' As these
basesare water-repellentthey avoid the risk of perspiration and making
the make-up run. The melting point of the base should not be below
40"C and is often 60oC or above. Occasionally these rouges are
formulated as thixotropic preparation, so that, they can be solid in the
container but liquefu when pressed on the skin and spread easily. To
achieve the thixotropic character high melting point waxes are required
to form a skeleton to accommodate the oil. Microcrystalline waxes or
amorphous substancesto prevent the sweating of the oils.
Formula 14
Beeswax
Petrolatum (short fibre)
Castor oil (semi-hydrogenated)
Paraffin oil
Lanolin (light)
Lakes
Perfurne
16.0gm
4.0 gm
54.0 gm
ll.0 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s
Forrnula 15
Petrolatum(short fibre)
Isopropyl myristate
Lanolin (light)
Glyceryl monostearate
Lakes
Perfume
40.0 gm
35.0gm
5.0 gm
12.0gm
8.0 gm
q.s
Ih1
S K I N C O L O RAN TS
16.0gm
Stearicacid
5.5 gm
Lakes
q.s.
Perfume
oils' fats' and waxes in
Mix and grind the lakes together' Mix
just abovethe meltingpoint of the
lrrrrcrrsingmeltingpoint and heai to
melt andgrind the mixturea
i,igf tn'"tring**. Stit pigmentsinto th:
'"*t
perfumetowardsthe end of
lew tirrreson a heated,.ipf" iofftt mill' Add
l l f( l (rcsq.
popular because of their

(J) Emulsion cream rouges : These are
cold cream or of the vanishing
ente rtf application unJ "* b"eof the
point of view' these preparationsare
, r.,,,rl typ". From a dermatological
wetting and emulsiffing.agents
rr,,t n., teneficial as in the preience of
skin through hair follicles and
the
penetrate
allitl rlye particles
"u'ity
"un
irritation' So'
qlrrrll fissures. If not remtved soon it can also cause
while using this
j,r,,i,.,
with cleansing cream is very important
"f"*lng
ly;rc rl[' rouges.
preparationsto stain the
Water-solubledyes are often used in these
also used but must be as finely
clttt. llowever, insoluble pigments are
colours are used' it is necesrlt'.1telscdas possible' When water-soluble
of hygroscopic substanceslike
silrv lo incorporate sufficient quantity
of water and darkening
gir'.",.trt,glycols, sorbitol to preYentevaporation
made using beeswaxbe
can
rl llrc cream surface. The preparations
agent'
emulsiffing
lrorirx combination or by using a separate
Formula 17
Lanolin
Cocoa butter
Beeswax
Liquid paraffin
Cetyl alcohol
Water
Borax
Colour
Perfumes
Preservative
Formula 18
Petrolatum (short fi bre)
Formula 16
Ceresin
Petrolatum(short fibre)
Paraffin oil
32.5 gm
13.5gm
2.5 gm
Beeswax
IsopropYl mYristate
4.0 gm
4.0 gm
14.0gm
26'0 gm
1.0 gm
44.2 gm
0.8 gm
7'0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
20.0 gm
14.0gm
30.0gm
56
Cetyl alcohol
Triethanolamine
lauryl sulphate
Borax
Water
Propyleneglycol
Lake
Perfume
Preservative
3.0 gm
0.4 gm
1.0 gm
21.6 gm
12.0gm
8.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Dispersethe finely powderedcolour basewith the melted fats and

oils. Preparea solutionof borax in water at about 7s"c andmix with
the first one slowly with stirring untir emulsionis formed. Finallv mill
it. Preservative
shouldbe addedto water.
Formula19
A. Arlacel C (Sorbitansesquioleate)
2.0 gm
Lanolin (anhydrous)
2.0 gm
Mineral oil
16.0gm
Petrolaturp(white)
30.0 gm
Preservative
(oil soluble)
q.s.
B. Arlex
5.0 gm
Brilliantred (c-10.01
3)
10.0.gm
Water
35.0 gm
Perfume
q.s
The aboveis a water-in-oiltype rougeand providesa productwhich
is soft and creamyand possesses
excelrentspreadingproperties.Sinceit
is of the water-in-oiltype, it has lesstendencyto dry oui.
Mix the ingredientsof 'A' and preservativetogetherand heat at
about70oc. In a separatevesselheatingredientsof 'B' to 70-75"c and
add 'B' to 'A' slowly with constantstirringto makean emulsion.Allow
to cool and add the perfumeat 35"C. Mill it.
Formula 20
A . Stearicacid
Isopropylmyristate
Lanolin
Beeswax
Glycerolmonostearate
B. Propyleneglycol
Glycerin
Water
14.25gm
2.25 gm
3.25 gm
4.50 gm
7.00 gm
4.75 gm
3.00gm
56.00gm
{'h,I
57
SKTNCOLORANTS
C. Pigments
Perfume
(watersoluble)
Preservatives
5.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
SepaMix together the ingredients of 'A' and heat at about 70oC'

tn| e| yrni xthei ng r edient sof . B'andheat t osam et em per at ur eof . A'
Pigments are to be
tlrixtrrrcand add to 'A' slowly with constant stirring'
dispersedin part of
nrklcrl to the semi-processedproduct, preferably as
at 35oC'
propylcne glycol. Allow to cool and add the perfume
or hydro(,1) Liquid rouges : The liquid rouges consist of aqueous
must be highly
nl.r,lr.rlic colour solutions. The colours selected
but do
attractiveness
some
have
they
errhrilnrttiveto the skin. Though
is
application
Their
rouges'
dry
or
lot lurvc as good appeal as the iream
ueur.r.l fup-pti "At nt f ut t yt heycanpr oducever ygoodef f ect 'Nor m ally
easy application' It
rr wick is attached at the neck of the container for
should also dry
and
slrrrrrltlhave good viscosity for easy application
rl rti ckl y.
the colour in
Aqueous preparationsare basically made by dissolving
thickener'
synthetic
gum
or
rr visrrottsaqueous medium containing a
I ilvccrirr is also incorporated sometimes'
Formula2l
0.5 gm
Erythrosine
gm
20.0
glYcbl
Propylene
gm
10.0
Ethyl alcohol
gm
69.5
Rosewater
mixed-with
l'hc colour is first mixed with propyleneglycol and then
a suitable
in
stored
then
is
It
sotulion.
a
otlrer ingredientsto make
I i l nl i l ttl er.
Formula22
Sodium alginate
Calciunt citrate
Wetting agent
Water soluble dYe
Rose water
Preservative
0.45 gm
0.15 gm
0.20 gm
0.20 gm
99.00 gm
q.s.
'l'lrc: wetting agent, sodium alginate and dye are first dissolved in
n| xl tl | 6()ml rosewat er . Calcium cit r at eisslur r edinanot her 30m lr ose
of the alginate
rvrrrcrilnd added to the first portion when thickening
volume made'
and
sillrrtiorrstarted. Preservativesare added afterwards
58
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S
Then store in a suitable container. The viscosity can

be altered b1,
varying the proprrrtion of alginate and calcium citrate.
Formula23
Methyl cellulose
Wetting agent
Water
Water-soluble dye
Perfume
Preservative
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
97.5gm
0.4 gm
q.s.
q.s.
This can be prepared by simple mixing. perfume and preservatives

are to be added later. preservative can be dissolved initiaily
in water.
Methyl cellulose can be replaced by 0.4 gm tragacanth.
Evaluation
It is very essential to maintain a uniform high standard
for lipsticks
and rouges, for which severar tests have to be carried
out incruding
identification and their individual proportions. Special
tests are also to
be carried out for lipsticks and rouges.
Tests for Lipsticks
The finished lipsticks are required to be subjected to various
tests.
Identification of ingredients and their quantity can
be determined by
normal chemical analysis tests, though it is not a very
easy task as a
variety of ingredients are present.
(i) Melting point : Determination of merting point
is important and
it is determined by capiilary tube method by keeping
the size of capillary, length of fill, and rate of heating constant. Another
impofiant test
of similar nature is yierd point or droop point. Droop
point is th"
temperature at which the lipstick, rying flat in its case,
wrtt-mett within
the case and ooze out oil or flatten out. This is a indication
of the rimit
of safe storage. Droop point should preferably be above
50oc for safe
handling and storage. Merting point should be higher
than the droop
point.
li,
(ii) Breaking point : This test is done to determine

the strength of
the lipstick" The lipstick is heli horizontally in a socket
% inch above
the base and weight is applied on the lipstick, t/z inch
away from the
edge of the support. The weight is gradually increased
by a specific
value (say 10 gm) at a specific interval of 30 seconds
and the weight at
which the iipstick breaks is considered as the breaking point.
The test
should be done at a specific temperature (say 25"ci
and the ripstick
t h { 'sKlN CoLoRANTS
59
elrlrrll hc stored at that temperature for at least 30 minutes prior to the

tFrl
tlll) 'I'hixotropy character : This is an indication of thixotropic
qttrrlrtyarrd is done,by using penetrometer. A standardneedle of specific
tllurrrclt:ris allowed to penetrate for 5 seconds under a 50 gm load at
!r"t' 't'lrolipstick is kept at25oC priorto the experiment. The depth of
perrrlrulionis a measurementof the thixotropic structure. Penetrationof
I trr l().-5mrn is indicative of a soft and thixotropic structure.
A lrroduct of high droop point with soft, thixotropic structure will
Brarrr
c good application characteristics.
(lv) Force of application : This is a test for comparativemeasurement
r,f llrr' lirrce to be applied for application. Two lipsticks, end cut to get
llnl trrllhce, are kept opposite way by mechanical holders. Lower
llprlrr'1, standingupright and fixed. Upper lipstick is moving downward,
lry rrree:hanical
means under a given weight, to the flat surface of the
lrrrverslick. A strip of smooth paper is attached to a dynamometer and
b rltrrwn between the two lipstick ends at a constant speed. The force
tFrlrre(l to pull the paper against a given specific weight is measured
Frr'l r orrrparedwith those made on other sticks of same diameter.
Altcrrratively a piece of coarse brown paper can be kept on a shadow
grrr;rlrbllance and the lipstick can be applied, at 45" angle, to cover a
I rr;rrurc inch area until fully covered. The pressure reading is an
Irrrlilrlion of force of application,though it may dependon the operator.
(v) Aging stabilify : The product is stored at 40"C and periodical
rrhqetvirtionof oil bleed, crystallization of wax on surface, and applicallnn t ltirr:rcteristics
is made.
(vl) Perfume stability : This is also done by storing at 40"C and
S,rriorlicirllycomparing, after bringing the temperaturedown; with a
fl erl r l i psti ck.
(vla, Oxidative stability : Oxidative stability is predicted by standard
rlolerrrrination
of peroxide value after exposureto oxygen under given
r rttrl i li rl rs,
hlil) Surface anomalies: This is studiedbythe surfacedefects,such
qn lorrrrirlionof crystals on surface, contamination by moulds, fungi etc.
lrr111111i,rrt
of wrinkles, exudation of liquid substancesand of solid fatly
ttccS .
--ttl rr,l rt
1lr) Accelerated stabilify test : Accelerated stability test aging can

l,a',trrrliedat higher temperature(45'C) or alternatelykeeping at 45oC
4il,1(t'(' :rnd observinsthe chanses.
60
A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr ,,
Tests for Rouges

Apart from general tests for identification and estimation. bv sorrr,
chemical or instrumental analysis, of ingredients, som other
specrtr,
tests are to be carried out to evaluate and control the products.
(i) Melting point : Melting point is determined,specifically
li,r
cream rouges, by capillary tube method. The melting point preferalrrr
should not be below 50oc for good storage and apprication point .r
view.
(ii) colour dispersion : colour dispersionis checkedunder
micr,
scope and no particle, above 50 p, should be there. colour particrc.,
above 50 p size may cause agglomeration and corour particles
may rr,.
easily identifiable.
CHAFIIER-5
Skin Creams
the
sh in care is the age old necessityof mankind. This necessitylead to
('rlrtinuous modification and invention of more and more skin care
r'rtsnreticpreparations'
(iii) Aging stability : This is done by keeping the product

ar ovcr
40"c for a one month period and noting the changesand comparing
wirrr
fresh products. Also product can be periodically kept at 40oc,'.oo,,,
temperature and in refrigerator for a specific period, about 2
weeks arrtl
noting the changes.
(iv) Container compatibirity : As theseproducts,particurarly
crear'
rouges, are marketed in plastic tube, compatibility of the product
witlr
plastic is to be checked. This can be studied at higher'temperaturc
(accelerated stability test) to predict the compatibility at
no.-ul ,h.11,
life.
(v) Sedimentation of riquid rouges : This is to judge
the sedimen.
tation rate characterof the liquid rouges, as sedimentatio-nmay
be there.
viscosity of the product is impoftant to have srow sedimentation.
tlre skin and to design better skin care preparations'

with the availability of wide spectrum additives, like emulsifing
preparation of
[gcnts, etc., and development of various techniques,
emulsion type
are
the
creams
Mostly,
I reiunshas become very simple.
solid'
a
spreadable
to
liquid
a
rurdconsistencycan vary from
All the skin care creams can be classihed on different basis( l) According to functiofl, .8. cleansing, foundation, massage'etc'
(2) According to characteristicproperties, e'g' cold crearns' vanishing creams,etc.
(3) According to the nature or type of emulsion'
l'he most widely accepted classification is based on function'
According to the functions the creams can be classified as follows(l) Cleansing and cold cre.uns
(2) Foundation and vanishing creilns
(3) Night and massage ueilns
(a) Hand and bodY creams
(5) All-purpose and general creams
6l
t'h,t
62
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(:S
(l) CLEANSTNGAND COLD CREAMS

Keeping the body clean is the most important and primitive need on
account of personal hygiene and beautification which leads to the need
of cosmetics. Though the natural process of constant sloughing off ol
the uppermost horny cells maintains some cleanliness,but it cannot be
regarded as adequate from the cosmetic point of view. Modern people
derrand a higher degree of cleanliness.
Cleansing cream or lotion is required for removal of facial make-up,
surface grime, oil, and water and oil soluble soil efficiently, mainly from
the face and throat. A good and properly formulated cleansing cream
should be able to remove, quickly and efficiently, applied cosmetics as
face powder, rouge, foundation bases,cake make-up, and lipstick. The
excessive increase in eye make-up also necessitatesuse of cleansing
products specially formulated to remove such make-up.
l
L
Although adequate washing with soap and water will perform the
cleaning action but a cleansing cream has certain advantages. Washing
with soap-water makes the skin look dry. The cleansing cream can
readily remove the chemical substances of the facial make-up by
dissolving or lifting away the greasybinding materialsholding pigments
or grime on the skin. Studies have indicated that solidified skin oil,
sebum over sebaceousor pilosebaceousorifices are resistantto removal
by scrubbing with soap and water, but can easily be removed by the use
of various commercial cleansing creams, polyethylene glycol 400, and
olive oil. Various fat solvents such as acetone, chloroform, glycerol,
kerosene, white gasoline, dioxane, and 95o/oethanol were found to be
effective in removal of surface oil layer, but not the slid sebum plaques.
This may be due to the superior efficacy of cleansing creamsto dislodge
and remove these plaques from the orifices of the sebaceousducts.
Ease of application is an irnportant feature of the cleansing cream
and so most of these creams are liquids so that excesscream and soil are
then easily removable with tissue. The resultant layer left on the skin
must not be occlusive but should be sufficiently emollient to prevent
drying. Cold creams on the other hand must primarily have an emollient
action. It is also expectedthat they should produce a cooling sensation
in ustl and the resultant oil fiLn on the skin should be non-occlusive.
r\ cleansing crearn should be easily applicable and spreadable. It
should cause low irritation to the skin. In addition to the primary
functiorr of cleaning, a multipurpose character can Lreimparted by adding appropriate ingredients to bring abilities to soften, lubricate, and
protect.
SKIN CREAMS
63
('hrracteristics
A good cleansing cream should have the following characteristicswater( l) It should effectively be able to remove oil-soluble and
and
face
specifically
skin,
soluble soil and ,uif^"" oil from the
throat.
(2) As a cosmetic it should be stable and have a good appearance.

( 1) It should melt or soften on application to the skin'
(4) It should spread easily without too much drag' During application, it should not feel greasy or oily'
not
(5) After evaporation of any water, the cream residue should
become viscous.
((,) Its physical action on the skin and pore openings should be that
of flushing rather than absorption'
(7) A light emollient film should remain on the skin after use of the
cream.
'l'hc method of use of cleansing cream is standard' The cream is to
stroke
he irpplied to face and throat with fingertips' A rotating upward
is
cloth
soft
or
paper
rrt tlrc lingers is used to spreadthe cream' A tissue
creams'
cleansing
tlrr.rrrrscdto remove the residue. In case of washable
with or without
tlrr ( rr::urt residues may be removed using tap water
prr,rr l rseof ti ssue.
I r'prcsof Cleansing Creams
l'r'rrditionally,cleansing creams are classified into two categories( | ) White, emulsified cold cream (beeswax-boraxtype)'
(.1) 'lranslucent, liqueffing type, anhydrous in characterand consisting of a mixture of hydrocarbon oils and waxes'
emulsiffAs a result of the development of several newer and better
are made
creams
cleansing
type
emulsion
nowadays many
Irrg rrp,.cuts,
r+llllotrlbeeswaxand borax.
(l ) tlceswax-borax type : The beeswax-boraxtype is a most imporare usually
r,ilrt lrrrnrulationamong cleansingcreams. The typical creams
a firm
have
creams
The
graininess'
rrlrrlc. ol'high lustre, and free from
with
spread
and
skin
the
to
r,,l.,i',lc:ucy.- They liquefy on application
cleansing
for
oil
mineral
of
Frr,,.' I'ltcsecreams contain high percentage
the
elltr rrt'y. Basically, they are oil-in-water type of emulsion' After
evaporates
water
of
quantity
rterrilr:iilrc rubbed on the skin, a sufficient
action
t'r lrrl)nlt arphase inversion to the water-in-oil type' The solvent
OF COSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
64
of the oil, as external phase, imparts the cleansing properly.

ln this beeswax-borax type preparation borax reacts with the free
fatty acids present in the beeswax and produces soft soap which acts as
the emulsifiing agent and emulsifies the oil phase, containing beeswax,
mineral oil, paraffin etc., in the aqueousphase.
\
General procedure for manufacturing : As thesq preparations are
ernulsion type, the total ingredients can be classified into oil phase and
aqueous phase. Ingredients of oil phase should be taken in increasing
meltiqg point. The materials of least melting point should be taken and
melt it. Add the other oil or wax gradually in increasing melting point
and melt them with continuous stirring. Take separatelythe ingredients
of aqueous phase and mix them and heat to same temperature as oil
phase. Emulsifoing agents should be added to specific phase. Mix the
two phases with continuous stirring until a,smooth cream is formed.
Finally the product can be milled by triple roller mill. Preservative
should be dissolved in the water before making cream. Perfume should
be added after the primary cream is formed and cooled but before final
ct r SKINCREAMS
A.
15.0gm
Beeswax
1.0gm
32.0gm
q.s.
B. Borax
Water
Preservative
q.s.
C. Perfume
Heat first five materials (A) and next three materials (B) separatelyin
glass containers at about 75oC. Add the second mixture to the first
mixture slowly with continuous stirring until the thick stable emulsion is
formed. Add the perfume when the temperature has fallen to about
35"C. Stir again, mill and store in a suitable container'
\4ormuia
A.
Beeswax
Almond oil
Lanolin
2.0 gm
50.0gm
0.5 gm
q.s.
C. Perfume
'ff,rmutas
A . Beeswax
Mineral oil
Paraffin wax
Spermaceti
Borax
Preservative
q.s.
C . Perfume
{rn.11u a
A. Beeswax
Ceresin wax
Mineral oil
Lanolin
Water
Preservative
q.s.
C . Perfume
Formula 5
Wheat-germ oil
SPermaceti
Beeswax
B. Water
Borax
Preservative
(1. Perfume
Formula 6
A. Beeswax
Mineral oil
Parafftn wax
CetYl alcohol
9.0 gm
4.5 gm
52.0 gm
0.5 gm
0.7 gm
33.3gm
q.s
B. Borax
A.
10.0gm
50.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
28.4 gm
0.6 gm
q.s.
B. Water
millins.
BEESWAX-BORAXCOLD CREAM TYPE
F o rmu l aI
28.0gm
Mineral oil
14.0gm
lsopropyl myristate
2.5 gm
Acetoglyceride
7.5 gm
Petroleum jelly
2.0 gm
35.5gm
q.s.
B. Borax
Rose water
Preservative
48.0 gm
15.0gm
15.0gm
21.5gm
0.5 gm
, q.s,
q.s.
8.0 gm
49.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.0 gm
A HANDtsOOK OF COSMETI( \
B. Borax
0.4 gm
34.6 gm
, q.s.
qs.
Water
Preservative
c
A
Perfume
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Spermaceti
Ozokeritewax
Lanolin
Formula7
Borax
Water
Preservative
12.00gm
50.25gm
5.00 gm
5.00 gm
2.00 gm
0.75 gm
25.00gm
q.s.
C. Perfume
q.s.
(2) Lique$ing creansing creams

: Thgs-eare transrucentliqueffing
anhydrous type of creansinl
creams oi-thixotropi" .r,"o.t".]
They
consist of a mixture of oils and waxes
and have such consistency trrat
they liquefr when gently massaged
on the skin. The materiars used for
preparing these creams
.are^mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, w:xes.
Occasionally vegetable oils,
fatty acid esters,or lanolin are also
in"o.po_
rated in small amounts. Proportion
of various materials should be
decided properly and formulation
should be done carefully. Thixotropic
wax like paraflin. The proportion
of
tum for crystalline ones.

mineral oils.
th r $KlNCREAMS
LIQUEFYING CLEANSING CREAMS
Formuh 6
80.0 gm
Mineral oil
15.0gm
jellY
Petroleum
5.0 gm
()zokeritewax
g.s.
I'reservative
q.s.
Perfume
Cool with stitring'
ll'nt all the oils and waxestogetheiat 65"C'
in a suitable
and perfumeafteicooling at 40oC' Store
Arll prcservative
r.otrlttittcr.
Formule9
IsoproPYlmYristate
Mineral oil
l'etroleum jellY
Paraffin wax
Preservative
Perfume
Formulal0
General procedure.of manufacturing

: Melt the waxes first. Add
petrolatum and finally the liquid
oils. sti thoroughly, add the perfume
after cooling to about 45'c.
The melted mixture should be
firtered.
Finally it can be passedthrough u
.ott"r rnitt.
42.0 gm
18.0gm
12.0gm
14.0gm
14.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
White mineral oil

White PetroleumjellY
Spermaceti
Ozokerite wax
Oetyl alcohol
Preservative
Perfume
Formula ld
The pe
For emollient character normally

lanolin or its derivatives, cetyl
alcohol, spermaceti and cocoa Uutt".
ur" lncorporated. Sometimes an
opaque appearance is preferred and
can be obiained uy in"o.p-uting
agents like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide,
magnesium stearate,zinc stearate' or hydrous ranolin. These substun".,
u.. normalry used at 2%o
concentration.
25.0 gm
25.0 gm .,.
30.0 gm
20.0 gm
q.s
q.s
Mineral oil
l)ctrolatum
l)araffin wax
llccswax
l'reservative
l'crfume
(2) FOUNDATION
62.5 gm
18.75gm
12.5 gm
6'25 gm
. q.s.
q.s.
AND VANISHING
CREAMS
widely used for- various .purVirrrislringand foundation creams are

to the functions'
:i',-r"'
names have been derived according
1r,,u".
when applied and
crearns ur" nut"d so as they disappear
Verri,,lrirr;,,
creams serve as a foundation
rrrl,lrrrl irrto the skin. Whereas foundation
68
69
base for the make-up acting as an adherent base for application of makeup powders. rthey also provide emollient action, and a protective actiorr
against environment by leaving a semi-occlusive residual film on the
skin which is neither too greasy nor too drying. It can also be mentioned here that another nomenclature, 'Day Creams', is used as these
preparations are used during the day in contrast to heavy-night creams.
All these creams must not damage the skin, should be stable and have a
good consistency.
Normally these preparations are based on stearic acid but can be
varied also. Some suitable additives may be incorporatedto impart skin
protecting properties. The formula can be modified suitably to make
genuine skin conditioners with emollient or depth effect or cleansersof
the massage cream type. The composition of stearatecreams intended
for daytime use (day creams) is usually very simple.
!.r
\KlN ('REAMS
tilrrorr *usYTd.:f vllltlenature-,::fl ;:tJ:r:::TlJ: H|ien;

itesru
r*-,'r",,r,ir.'
cre; buttt" ot':1-"Tl?:":ffl
dtscolour
'irry*r,ir.'."'-^1:.0*ffiffiJ$r3ff
to discolout
to
tendency
tJ, a ,.ra"ncy
t ( ) g r a l n '.
P l r , l , 'r r ,Y
"*ith
#;;';;
:
mc
- ^ _ ^ +i
time'
it aftersome
,',,,.t.
"
the
intain
i' 1,:?-:""11T'lt"11"t"nrffi*: ;,;;;' no,o"*aing107.1
j,*JTfu1#'""1""ii:J;
mlnute
!*e;'*-o'jr'ry,
F||tIqIBtc||cy an-d-q!3lg+-,#*Ô.=;Ol
,,,,:l::ili;'"ffi
ication, forming o,f
absorb
artematrve
usingaltemative
by using
bv
fiElrrrr,,it rnay
+.o
iJ ou"'"o*"
^rercorn
i'1"1,"::H:#H;LJ;;;
l',1,',..1'.,
lil
much wanted'
ing creams is very
The materials
tain the fearliness'
sPermaceti'
u'" iio"ia Paraffin'
'
nond oil'
Vanishing Creams
They are called vanishing creams because they seem to disappear
when rubbed into the skin. These preparationsare stearic acid basedand
part of the stearic acid is saponified with an alkali and rest of the stearic
acid is emulsified with this soap in a large quantity of water.
iAfter*
application the cream leaves a dry but tacky residual film which also has
a drying effect on the skiil Because of this reason the stearic acid soap
based creams are still favoured for use with greasy skin conditions and
particularly in hot climatesT-which cause perspiration on the face and
where more emollient creanis are not suitable.
$inest quality triple-pressed stearic acid of melting point of about
55"C is normally used. The high quality stearic acid plovides an oil
phase,which melts above body temperatureand crystallizes in a suitable
form, provides an invisible and non-greasy film and can produce a very
attractive appearance) Normally 20-3Oo of free fatty acids is neutralized by using alkali,'either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide)
Characters of the creams vary according to the proportion of the stearic
acid present {!e
total proportion should not exceed 25Yo, and best
preparations are obtained using l6-207o neutralizatior| fne consistency
and texture of the cream also depends on the amount of acid saponified
and the nature of alkali used.(Sodium hydroxide makes a harder creams
than potassium hydroxide) The amount of alkali is required to be
calculated on the basis of 6mount of free acid available.
from potassi um hydrox ide, trglbqplquoing.-is -also an exceI lent
(pa,t
alkali to prepare good quality creatns. Use of triethanolamine makes the
red in airtight contalners'
cfilrElrlcrocl'
Formula 12
A. Stearic acid
CetYl alcoholTriethanolamine
20.00gm
0.50 gm
1.20gm
70
A HANDBOOK OF COSMEI'I( S
Sodiumhydroxide
Glycerin
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.36 gm
8.00 gm
69.94 gm
q.s
q.s
Formule13 '/
Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Stearicacid
Propyleneglycol
Potassiumhydroxide
2.00 gm
0.50 gm
10.00gm
8.00 gm
0.40 gm
Water
Perfume
Preservative
79.10gm
q.s.
q.s.
th!
7l
\ h r N ( 'r i l ; A M S
Sodium hydroxide
'l'riethanolamine
ll
(i l yce r in
Water
[)erfume
l'reservative
0.36 gm
l.2O gm
8.00 gm
69.94 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 17 o/
Stearic acid
l)otassiumhYdroxide
ll
(i l ycer in
Water
l)erfume
l'reservative
20.0gm
1 . 4gm
4.0 gm
74.6gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 14
A
12.0gm
0.5 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
Sorbitol syrup
Propylene glycol
Triethanolamine
B. Glycerin
0.3 gm
78.2 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Water
Perfume
Preservative
p*lrrure wltcn ths temperatureis about 35"C' Mill it'

Fspnrl nl krn(l ream s
' Formula 15
A. Stearic acid
Potassium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide
Cetyl alcohol
Propylene glycol
B. Glycerin
15.00gm
0.50 gm
0.18 gm
0.50 gm
3.00 gm
5.00 gm
75.82gn
q.s.
q.s
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
l l re l rrrtrrrl :rlitcr
) lteam scan be of t wo t ypes| | 1 I'rlirrtcntedcreamswhich are coloured
I '1 t lrrpigmentedcreams
Formula 16
A.
rlc,, rl,,eqlrtrlpin retentionof powder. '
20.00gm
0.50 gm
l*Frrsrill ;lrocedure of manufacturing : Heat ingredients of oil

phase separatelyto 75oC and mix the latter to the
l,lia-e ,rrr,l,,,1,,.t.,u,
the
ii,r+*r',rl,,r*'lv with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring' Add
72
A HANDBOOK OF COSMTrrr i
perfumewhen the temperatureis about 35oc. preservative

shoultlr,r
addedto waterbeforemixing with oil phase.Finally
a milling will 1,,,u
a good product.
A. Liquid paraffin
2.00 gm
0.50gm
10.00gm
0.40 gm
8.00 gm
79.10gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m u l a 1 9
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin (anhydrous)
Triethanolamine
B. Water
1.00gm
L00 gm
2.00 gm
18.00gm
1.58gm
76.00gm
2.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Sorbitol
Perfume
Preservative
Formula20
A.
Spermaceti
Colours
B. Water
Glyceryl
Perfume
Preservative
Formula2l
A. Glyceryl monostearate
Mineral oil
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropyllinoleate
B. Glycerin
Water
ri l i l N C ]R E A M S
q.s.
q.s.
Perfume
Preservative
Formuls 22
Formule 18
<
A. Lanolin
Cetyl alcohol
Stearicacid "
Potassiumhydroxide
B. Propyleneglycol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
It
th!
A. Lanolin
Mineral oil
Stearic acid
ll.
Glycerin
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfrtme
Preservative
1.00gm
10.00gm
2.50 gm
3.00 gm
5.00 gm
0.50 gm
78.00gm
q.s.
q.s.
t0undrtlon Make-uP
to hold the powder
Ar loundation cream is used as a base make-up
process' The idea of
*lrle trp above it, the total make-up is a two-step
processand the.troumake-up came to overcomethis two-step
lirrrrrrlrrriolr
forms, particularly-liquid,
hls rvrrlt il. Foundation make-up in various
it
has replacedthe foundacountries
in
some
heqlrr'r'(lrncso popular that
The reason being the liquid
ltrr (tcurils and loose powder altogether'
than powder and a smooth
firrrrr,lrrlittnmake-up is much easier to apply
of surfactants may
presence
the
Though
can be obtained.
Bplre-nnlnco
hair follicles and fissures of
rrtrrlc tlrc colours or pigments penetite the
it has some popularity'
u1,i,t",,,,i,if not compllt"ly ,.-on"d, still
5.00 gm
20.00 gm
3.00 gm
A.
67.00gm
5.00 gm
q.s.
q.s.
' lt.
Formula23
Lanette wax
Stearic acid
Water
Glycerin
Powder base
Colour
Perfume
Preservative
8.00 gm
8.00 gm
64.00gm
10.00gm
10.00gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
20.00gm
5.00 gm
2.00 gm
1.50gm
colour and perfume with

llrul c:omponentsof 'A' to 85o-90oC' Mix
Add 'B' i{t "\' and
llre lxrwder base, then dispersethis in the glycerin'
l ri l r l l rrtrotl ghlY.
8.00 gm
71.00gm
formuh 24
Butyl stearate
Stearicacid
1.00gm
12.00gm
Sorbitanmonostearate
2.00gm
Polyxyethylenesorbitanmonostearate
1.00 gm
Propyleneglycol
12.50gm
2.00 gm
Talcum
8.00 gm
Titanium dioxide
2,00 gm
Iron oxide (red)
1.00gm
Water
58.00gm
Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
Take the first four substancesand heat it at about 70oC. Heat water
and sorbitolliquid to sametemperature
and makeemulsion. Add colour
and perfume with talcum and then mix with propvleneglycol
and
sorbitolliquid and mix with the emulsion,cooledat 35oC. Homogenize
the whole preparationin an ointmentmill.
Formula25
A. Stearicacid
Span60
Isopropylpalmitate
B. Tween60
Propyleneglycol
Water
Dry powders(titaniumdioxide,
talc, inorganicpigments)
Perfume
Preservative
15.0gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
1.50gm
10.00gm
54.00gm
15.00gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix the pigment and talc to dispersethe colour properly. Heat

componentsof 'A' to 85oc and componentsof 'B' to 90"c in separate
containers.Add 'B' to 'A' with continuousstirring. cool slowly with
stirring. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to 35"C.
Preservative
should be addedin water of components.B' beforecream
is made.
(3) NIGHT AND MASSAGE CREAMS
( lr I
S K IN C R E A MS
I)
orrc arrother. The common feature is that they are generally applied on
tlrt' skin and left for several hours, say overnight, and all of them assist
Irr tlrc repair of skin which has been surface damaged by exposure to
vnlious elements or exposure to detergent solution or soap. 'They
rrolrrally contain high quantity of oily and fatty materials together with
r,rrrolliontssuch as lanolin or lanolin derivatives and are preparedeither
sr oil-in-water or water-in-oil or as mixed emulsion systems. Skin acts
ns l barrier between the body and its environment maintaining a controlIt'rl rlynamic equilibrium. Various stressesimposed by the environmental
Irrt:lorscan cause changesor damage to the skin. The major function of
llrcsc creams is to help to reverse these changes and maintain a normal
lrcrltlry skin. They are easy to apply but not too easy to rub in. These
('rcilrns are also not to rub in. They are sticky and greasy due to
lrrcscnceof oil/wax but this charactercan be avoided by using materials
.,rrc:h
as fatty acid esters,acetylatedglycerides and other oils which have
pood spreading properties. The objective of using such creams is to
eovcr the skin with a well dispersed, and consequently thin residual
occlusivefilm which is not greasyor sticky. When this film is allowed
kr rcrnain,the loss of moisture is slowed down comparatively.
As normally these creams are applied at night time, the time norrrurlly assigned-toskin preservationand feeding, they are called night
('rcarns. But they can also be used in clay time as a base for applying
lrrcc powders. These preparationsare also used to supplementhormones
ol vitamins to the skin and they may be termed as hormone creams or
v itarnin creams respectively.
Composition Emoliient and moisturizing substancesare one imporlilnt component of these creams. To rectiff the dryness and maintain the
llcxibility of the skin emollients are used. Emollient action can be
uchievedby two mechanisms.
(l)
Prevention of water loss from the skin and thus building up of

water content from within.
(2) Supplementing the water content of the skin by attracting the

water from the atmosphereby means of a humectant material.
The mechanism of zrttracting water from the atmosphere and thus
rrraintainingthe water content of the skin is called moisturizing. All the
rnoisturizing creams thus contain a humectant.
Most common si6stances used as humectants are glycerol and other
polyhydric alcohols like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and sorbitol.
Solutions of sodium lactate,glucose, fructose,glucosamine,deoxyribose,
77
* rhtN ('RliAMS
+=fr
':.6
A HANDBooKoF cosMErICS
and ribose also show healing, soothing and keratoplasticactivity on skin-
Ferlrrrile:iluruldbe added after cooling and milled through triple roller

nfl l
I lrr rrsc of isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate is recom*tFillF'l ;r'. lltcy give additional body to the cream.
Formula26
skin.
Lanolin and its derivatives, stearic acid, wool wax alcohols, wool
wax steroids, beeswax, artificial preen gland oil, vegetable oils like
groundnut oil have found use in these creams.
Various esters like isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, or
isoalcohols are also incorporated.
Vitamins or hormones are incorporated in these creams for nourishment to the skin and they can thus be termed as vitamin crealns or
hormone creams. The vitamins which are used for this purpose are
vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E or some water soluble vitamins. The
name vitamin F has been given to a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids,
including linoleic acid, linolenic acid and is arachidonic acid, and used
in creams for treatment of skin. They are normally used as alkyl esters
like isopropyl ester, etc.
Estrogen, progestin, pregnenolone and androgens are all claimed to
have sh&n limited restorative effects on aged skin. Though there is
fear that the hormones may be absorbed and can produce systemic side
effects but as the concentrations at which they are used in these creams
are very low, so the chances of side effects are not there' A suitable
vehicle is required to dissolve hormone and for this purpose oil of
persic, vegetable oils, benzyl benzoate, ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol
may be used.
Suitable perfume is incorporated according to the choice or acceptability. As these preparations are emulsions and contain good amount of
watei, preservatives are also to be incorporated. Methyl parahydroxy
benzoate in combination with propyl or butyl parahydroxy benzoate are
widely used for this PurPose.
If the preparations contain unsaturated esters or oils, antioxidant
should be incorporated to prevent rancidification'
As these preparations are
General procedure of manufacturing
emulsion typi, they contain two categoriesof ingredients,oil and similar
substances and water and other water miscible ingredients. Both should
be taken separately and heated nearly to same temperature to get all in
liquid state. Mix the two with continuous stirring until cream is formed.
ll.
White beeswax
I)araffin wax
l,anolin
38.0 gm
8.0 gm
15.0gm
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
Borax"
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
1.0 gm
35.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mineral oil
Petroleumjelly
Formula27
A . Beeswax
Mineral oil
Lanolin oil
Isopropyl palmitate
Acetylated glyceride
Lanolin
It. Borax
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
8.0 gm
15.0gm
7.5 gm
10.0gm
2.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
35.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
lleul componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyto 75"C' Add 'B' to 'A'
perfume
elnwly with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add
in
added
be
should
Preservative
Wherrtlre temperatureis about 35oC.
* E l E r l )l ul sc .
Formula28
A. Groundnrlt oil
Mineral oil (light)
PetroleumjellY
Lanolin
Beeswax
Borax
15.0gm
20.0 gm
30.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
0.3 gm
78
A HANDBOOKOF COSMI ll,
B. Water
t i
243 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
Formula29
A. Vegetable oil
Isopropyl myristate
Acetoglyceride S/C
Acetoglyceride LIC
Oleyl alcohol
Lanolin
Isopropyl linoleate
Stearyl alcohol
Stearic acid
Lecithin
Beeswax
Borax
B. Triethanolamine
21.00gm
8.00 gm
7.50gm
5.00 gm
3.00gm
2.50gm
2.00 gm
1.50gm
1.00gm
1.00gm
8.00gm
0.25 gm
0.50gm
38"75gm
q.s.
q.s
Water
Perfume
Preservative
It
ghl ttl
B. Borax
Water
Perfume
Antioxidant
Preservative
1.0gm
37.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l l oru
W ate r
l'crfume
Arrtioxidant
I'tcservative
0.8 gm
40.7 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
HORMONE CREAMS
;\
ll
Mineral oil
40.0 gm
Beeswax yellow
15.0gm
Lanolin
0.5 gm
Isopropyl myristate
5.0 gm
Acetylated lanolin
0.5 gm
Concentrated solution of vitamin A & D 1.0 gm
1.0 gm
31.0gm
8.0 gm
2.5 gm
l l.0 gm
5.0 gm
l 'r"('.
Formula30
A.
Formula3l
linoleate
lsopropyl
Mi rre r aloil
lsopropyl palmitate
l ,l rnolin
llccswax
Microcrystalline wax
l l prrt ,otttponent sof 'A'and'B' separ at elyt o 75oC' and add 'B't o
I eh,rrlr,with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring,adding perfume
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyat about 75"C. Mix 'lI
to 'A' with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add perfurrr,
when cooled to 35"C.
VITAMIN CREAMS
79
tt tN ( t(t:A M S
Formula32
Acctylated lanolin
lsopropyl myristate
Mineral oil (heavy)
Ilorrnone(in vehicle)
llcoswax
(' ctyl alcohol
Stcarylalcohol
lrruulsiffing agent (o/w tYPe)
15.0gm
3.0 gm
4.0 gm
1.0 gm
7.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
15.0gm
W atcr
I' crl ir r ne
Itrcscrvative
A rrl ioxidant
49.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
lliqaillvr.rctlrrisiteamount of estrogenicsubstancein a suitable solrEfif arill rr,,t.il in 'A'. Heat componentsof 'A'and water separatelyat
.,lrrrvlyirtld water to'A' with moderatebut continuousstirring.
rti |
t rmliltr; ',trttitrp,while coqling and add perfume at 35oC'
FRUIT JUICE CREAMS
Formula33
A
oil
S rrrr llower
t i l yc : cr in
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
A FIANDBOoKoF coSMl rtt
80
B.
Orange juice or grape fruit juice

Emulsifuing agent (emulsene)
24.0 gm
16"0 gm
Water
Perfume (orange oil)
Preservative
50.0 gm
q.s.
q's.
Heat components of 'A' at 75"C, except juice. Heat water r'vrtl'

preservativeat sametemperatureseparatelyand add to'A'with Corlitrrr
ous stirring. Cool while stirring. Add juice and perfume whett llr,
temperature is at about 35oC.
tt r bl l ri ( l tl rAM S
81
are expectedto be:

llrF |'riilil lirnctions of hand and body creams
water loss fiom the surface
{ | ) l{cplace water loss or reduce the
ol the skin.
skin'
{ ') l'rovide an oily film to protect the
( l) Kccp the skin soft, smooth but not greasy'
t | ) lrlsY to aPPlY"
LANOLIN JUICE CREAMS

Formula34
Lanette wax
Myristyl alcohol
Giycerin
Lemon juice
Water
Oil of lemon
Preservative
12.0 gm
5.0 gm
6.0 gm
20.0 gm
57.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Heat lanette wax and myristyl alcohol and mix together at 15"(
Heat water with preservative at same temperature but separately. A'l'l
water to first mixture with continuous stirring. Stir in the lemon jtrr,,
and glycerin after emulsion is formed. Finally add lemon oil wlr' "
temperature is about 35"C.
l | rl er hl t
used in these preparaVdrl,ril',tttittcrials,in variable proportions'are
lrr,,ltlirirl different functions'
lfuiit==
(4) HAND AND BODY CREAMS

Softness of the skin is very important and also wanted. Sebunr. '
substancewhich is secretedfrom the skin, acts as a natural lubricant arr,l
keeps the skin soft and conditioned. The film produced by secrctt''l
sebum also helps to keep the skin wet by preventing the evaporation "l
moisture. The repeatedor constant contact with soap and detergentdot
the damage or causesremoval of the film sebum.
Frequent removal of this sebum makes the skin dry, scaly and lc" '
protective against bacterial infection and can, ultimately, lead to dernrrr
titis. Some natural moisturizing agents are also secreted by the skirr
controlled use of soap or detergent does not make the skin much drr
and scaly, but frequent and prolonged use of soaps or detergents,dryirrl'
winds and indoor atmospheresmake the skin much dry and scaly' A
protection is required to maintain the skin in normal condition.
Fl * rr
82
A HANDBOoK
oF cosMtirr( ,
Incorporation of alkyl fatty acid esters helps to prevent drag rrr,,r

excessiveoiliness. The alkyl fatty acid estersmake the oil phase 1,.,,
viscous and so enablethe skin to be coveredwith a thinner oil film ri,.,,,
would otherwise be possible.
Sometimes a healing ingredient, like allantoin, urea, uric acicr, r
incorporated in hand and body creams to enhance granulation of rlr,.
skin. A bacteriocideis incorporatedto prevent bacterialinfection ofrlr,
skin.
In modern type of creams,alkyl estersof polyunsaturatedC1g fatrr
acids, linoleic acid and linolenic acid are addedto preventscaling of rl,,
skin surface.
As these preparations are mainly oil-in-water type emulsions, ()rl
evaporation these leave the skin feeling relatively non-oily and n,rr
sticky. creams or lotions based on natural or synthetic film formers ar.
not popular because on evaporation of water the preparations beconr,.
sticky due to increase in concentration of gum. However. this can lrt.
prevented by presenceof humectant.
Since these creams and lotions contain water and materials that art.
highly prone to decompositionby rnicrobialcontamination,they must bt.
protected against such contamination and thus addition of preservativcs
is a must. The selectionof preservativesshould be such thai thev shoukl
83
;!l tr i I l l l AM S
E !
gives an extra edgeto

f'er,lrrrl'p,!ttl'oolour is a fascinatingthing' It
colours
l'. lr()ltrconsumeracceptancepoint.of view' Though
ft ;,r,,,lrrr
body
and
for hand
== r,,t r,,,1 rrr ltand creams but can be selected
blue,
red'
are
:=4,,,: \',il r()Uscolours which are consideredacceptable
= !r,, " r t r' (' n i n di ffere ntshades.
can be of various naturesI lr.'., prr'gt:ttlrtions
tl t I t,lttitl crelms: Consistencyis of liquid nature'
r 'r ,\i,,lrtlcrenms : Consistencyis higher'
type: Not containingany aqueousmedia'
r t1 Nrtrr'ttqtteous
are also
l:plr'ntl proccdure for manufacturing As these creams
prepared
are
they
phase'
aqueous
and
tr 1,,'contzriningoil phase
:;::,rr=i,,il
temp-erature
:. ',,.trir|, ,rr lrcating both the phasesseparatelyto same
Perfume is
formed'
is
cream
till
i ,rri',n1'rvillt continuousstiriing
-==.
a good
for
done
is
milling
..tfe*l rll, r ,ooliltg the product' Finally
.'==l i l tF
LIQUID CREAMS
Fo r m u l a 3 5
l';opropyl mYristate
Mirrcral oil
S t t 'r r r i ca c i d
I r r r r r l s i l y i n gw a x
| ;rrtolin
il
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
84.225gm
q.s.
q"s.
{ ilyccrin
I r ie thanolamine
Wr t t c t I 't 'r l i t l n e
aqueous phase rvhereaspropyl ester is dissolved in oil phase. Butyi

ester may be used in place of propyl ester in same concentration.
choice of a perfume for use in hand and body creams is basedsoleiy
on aesthetic value. Proper perfume increasesacceptanceof the product.
But perfurne should not be excessiveor too strong. perfumes should bc
compatible with other ingredients and stabilize the preparations. perfumes from different sourcescan be selected.
(l) Synthetic aromatics like phenylethyl alcohols, geranoil, pine,
hydroxycitronellal,amyl cinnamic aldehyde.
(2) Essential oils like geranium bourbon, rose de mai absolute.
lavender.
(3) Compounded perfume oils of a liliac type, light floral type are
also used.
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.275gm
2.5 gm
I 'rt 's c r v a t i v e
Formula 36
t
t ilyccrol monostearate
t 'r 't y l a l c o ho l
: l i l i c o r r r :o i l
l ; r r r o l i r to i l
\ 1 r : r r rt l 0
I rvt:ctt (r0
ll
l-,othitol solution (70%o)

W: t l t 't -
2.7 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
2.5 gm
10"0gm
19.3 gm
84
A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MIIIII '
Perfume
Preservative
F.f i
q.s.
q.s.
Alcohol
Water
l)erfume
l)reservative(onlY methYl
parahydroxy benzoate)
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separately. Mix 'B' to .A' wrtl,
continuous stirring. cool while stirring. Add preservative with stirrrrrl,
when cooled to 35oC.
SOLID CREAMS
Formula 37
A. Stearicacid
Isopropylmyristate
Potassiumhydroxide
15.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0gm
B. Sorbitolsolution(70%)
Water
Perfume
Preservative
18.3grn
63.7 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 38
Cetyl oleyl ethoxylate
12.0 gm
73.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix
l rlliolvc preservative in glycerin with gentle heat if required'
perfume'
glycerin and
lhe trngnt'itttit, *itlt the alcohol and add the
slowly, part by
solution
the
add
and
water
in
acid
tllae,rlvt. lltc boric
paste, with gentle stirring'
ir*l tl tlrc lragacanth
Formula40
2.0 gm
10.0gm
0.2 gm
87.8gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
'l'ragacanth
Glycerin
'l'itanium dioxide
Water
l)erfume
Clolour
l)reservative
Melt stearic acid and isopropyl myristate and potassium hydroxirl,.

with stirring. Keep it at 75"C. Heat components of .B' at sarrrt.
temperature and mix with 'A' with continuous stirring. Add perfurnt.
when cooled to 35oC.
A.
b h t N ( l {l i A M S
9.0 gm
Polyethyleneglycol 400 monostearate 14.0 gm
Mineral oil
Siliconeoil
Paraffin wax
Petroleumjelly
Isopropylmyristate
B. Water
Perfume
Preservative
12.0gm
1.0 gm
8.0 gm
4.0 gm
8.0 gm
NON-AQUEOUSTYPE
For m ula4l
wax
l)araffin
l'ctroleumjellY
I)erfume
46.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
Formula42
l,anolin
(lcresin wax
Amber resin
l)araffin wax
l'ctroleumjellY
Heat components
of A andwaterseparately
at75"C. Add waterto A
with continuousstirring. Cool with stirringaddingperfumeat 35"C.
JELLIES
Formula39
Tragacanth
Boric acid
Glycerin
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
12.0gm
26.0 gm
74.0 gm
q.s.
l'crfume
9.0 gm
18.0gm
4.5 gm
18.5gm
50.0gm
q.s.
point'
lrlell rrrtd rnix the material in increasing order of melting
about
at
mass
Ferllrlre:,lrottld be added last after cooling the mixed
t i "l
86
A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MTJII( .
Fh i
non-aqueoustype preparationsalso, sometime,chlorophyll,

tnir:,rr
_In
mallow leaves, essential oils, turpentine oil, eucalyptus
oil, etc. can rr,.
added.
-ihil,r
8',7
( lUiAMS
rri|er trlrr..,iuc also used as can be seen from the following formulaeFormula43
Wool alcohols
Ilard parafhn
White soft paraffin
l.iquid parafhn
l'crfume
Antioxidant
(s) ALL_PURPOSE CREAMS

In recent times there has been a tremendous increasein
the consunrlr
tion of preparations which are normally known as
al-purpose crear),,
These were also known as ,sports cream' as they
*"r" ,r.d by sport,
men in skii'g and outdoor activities. They are
somewhat oilv brrr
non-greasy type and can spread easily on the skin to give
a protectiv,.
film. They can also function, when applied excessively,
as a skinfood ,,,
nourishing cream' or night cream or protective cream
for prevention .r
alleviation of sunburn, or for the treatment of roughenei
skin area,
Also, when applied sparingly, they function as hand
creams or founda.
tion creams. Thus they are called as all_purposecreams.
So, the composition of these creams is such that it can
act-(a) As a foundation cream to provide a fbundation
base for makc.
up.
6.0 gm
24.0 gm
10.0gm
60.0 gm
q.s
q.s
trl,lr rlrt. irbove ingredientstogether and stir until cold. Add perfume
sher ,,rr,lr'rlro 35"C with stirring' An equal amount of water can be
rdJr,l tr, llrrs baseto form the cream known as hydrous ointment'
Formula 44
(b) As a cleansingcream and liquefy easily.

(c) As a hand cream and should have emollient
2.5 gm
Wool alcohols
Microcrystallinewax (m.p. 140'-145"F) 6.0 gm
21.0 gm
Mi ner al oil
5.0 gm
I'clroleumjellY
It
( i l yce r in
Magnesium sulPhate
Water
l'crfume
Mcthyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate
I'ropyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate
llrrtylatedhYdroxYanisole
character.
(d) As a protective cream and should form
a continuous non-occlusive film.
(e) As a cream to smooth the rough surface of the
skin.
Composition
5.0 gm
0.7 gm
59.8gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
q.s
t o 75'C' Add'B't o'A'

s 'A'and'B' separ at ely
l l l rl rorttl l otl entof
Add perfumewith
45"C.
about
at
Homogenize
d itlr r rntllrotts stirring.
cream'
making
before
of
'B'
water
in
+tifrirrp Atltl prcservative
These preparationsare mainly based on woor arcohols,

which consisl
of the alcoholic fraction obtained by saponification
of the grease of the
wool of sheep and contain not less than2gyo of cholesteror.
Its varue as
a water-in-oil emulsifier is due to the properly of
absorption of water.
But this character can be lost due to oxidation and thus
an antioxidant,
like
hydroxyanisole, is to be used. If oxidation occurs
water
_butylated
can be lost from the base and can seep out. As these preparations
need
to spread easily, microcrystalline wax can be used.
Minerat oils, paraffin are used to get protective layer. Magnesium
sulphate is used to
enhancethe stability of the creams by the p."r"n""
of magnesium ions in
aqueous phase. Methyl and propyl parahydroxy benzoates
can be used
as preservatives to prevent microbial groMh. Suitable
perfumes are
also to be added. The preparations are normally
water-in-oil but the
Formula45
,,\
I lartolite
('ctyl alcohol
l,iquid paraffin
It
( i l ycer in
Magnesium sulPhate
W l ter
l )crfu m e
I'rcservative
A rrtioxidant
3.75 gm
0.75 gm
7.60 gm
19.70gm
2.60 gm
0.70 gm
64.90 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s.
88
A TIANDBOOKOF COSME'I'I('T
Heat and melt componentsof 'A' at75oc and also heatcomponerrrr

of 'B' to sametemperature.Mix 'B' with 'A' with constantitirring
Homogenizeand cool to 40oc and add perfumewith stirring. The ab.ve
is an exarnpleof, o/w generalpurposecream.
Formula46
A. Stearicacid
Lanolin
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Myrj 52
15.0gm
2.0 gm
2.0 gm
24.0 gm
5.0 gm
B. Sorbitalsolution
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
10.0gm
42.0 gm
q.s
q.s
q.s
Heat and mix components

of 'A' at above75.c. Add preservative
trr
water and sorbital solution and heat to 75oc. Mix 'B' to .A' witlr
continuousstining. Cool and add perfumewhile stining.
Formula47
A. Wool alcohol
Cholesterol
Petroleumjelly
Paraffin wax
Mineral oil
Sorbitansesquioleate
1.0gm
1.5gm
J.5 gm
5.0 gm
20.0 gm
1.0 gm
B. Glycerin
Magnesiumsulphate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Antioxidant
5.0 gm
0.5 gm
58.5 gm
q.s
q.s.
q.s
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' independently

to 75oC. Add ,B, kr
'A' slowly with continuousstirring. when temperpture
has comedown
to 45"c passthrough homogenizer.continue stirring to cool to 35o(,
and add perfume. Preservative
shouldbe addedin wa-terof ,B'.
CREAMS
89
6ote productsare usedwidely and for variouspartsof the body,

cvaluationand quality controlis essential.
ftom generaltestslike quantitativeand qualitativedeterminaInjrodlents,someothertestsare important.
lhrology : Rheology is very important as these creams are
ln tubes or containers. The rheology or viscosity should
nonttont. As these productsare normally non-newtonianin
frc vlscositycan be measuredusing viscometersusedfor such
funrltlvity : As various types of ingredientsare used with
ft urc of antiseptics,hormones,etc., there is a possibility of
of the skin. This should be tested
or photose-nsitization
'Ihis test is normallydoneby patchtest on skin and can be
or occlusive. The test sample is applied alongwith a
mtrkct productat different placesand effect is comparedafter a
tf tlmc.
tlologlcal testing : This is particularlyessential fof products
lntiseptics,hormones,vitamins,etc.
r r l l t',r l t l r l r N I'R EPAR ATI O N S
IGG
CHAPTER-6
SunscreenPreparations
9l
and
=il aflr, r.,l tt:lls is responsiblefor the dilation of blood vessels
can
proliferation
of the basal cells of the skin for
=; rlerl,r iitrrrrrrlation
leads
only
not
=!..,,,., ,rr lr is also known that excessivesolar radiation
radiatiOn
:. j ,li:.qil,.rtrOil
[o cancgrbUt tO Skin CanceritSelf. EXCeSSiVe
t' .!;,trrr1, vi rami n D pr esentin skin f at and pr oducessom e t oxic
,rlrrrlr irr the long run causethe connectivetissueof the corium
:!=r{,iJ..
r,vlrichis manifestedin a coarseningof the skin relief and
!.. rleErrrr.r,rtt.
F.rl rati rrr ,,1 rvr i ttkl gs.
Sunlight reaching the surface of the earth contains visible r{s (rrrrl
wavelength between 400 mp-740 mp), rays with shorter wavclr.rrlrr,
(280 mp-400 mp) called ultraviolet, and rays with longer wavelt.rrl,rt,
(750 mp- 5300 mp) called infrared. Ultraviolet rays, particularly r,,rt,
wavelength below 320 mtrt,are responsible for most of the therapeutr, ,
well as noxious effects that we attribute to sunlight. The ovcr,,ti
beneficial effects as well as harmful effects of sun rays on the hrrrrr,,,
body depend on the length and frequency of exposure, intensity ot rl,,
sunlight and sensitivity of the individual concerned. Lower the n;i',
length, more the energy of the rays.
These rays stimulateblood circulation in the derma,causethe clcr,I
opment of vitamin D from provitamins, through the activatiorr ,,r
7-dehydrocholesterol,contained in skin fat. Sunshine increasesrl,,
formation of haemoglobin and may also promote a decreasein frr,,,,,i
pressure. These rays are also supposedto shift the redox potential ol rrr,
epidermal tissue towards more intensive reduction, which, in turrr I
believed to lead to an activation of various vitamins, hormones",r,,1
enzymes and a favourable effect on the visceral nervous system. srrn
rays have been used in the treatment of tuberculosis of some glar,l
bones and skins and also in the treatmentof skin psoriasis. Sunligrir,
also known to exert a beneficial influence on the autonomous nerv(,rl
system and reduce the susceptibility to infections. Moderate exposur(,r,,
sunshine produces better psychological feelings, sense of fitness rr,,l
peace of mind. Sun rays cause thickening of the skin by producr,,1,
melanin which increasesthe body's naturalprotectivemechanismagairr,r
sunburns.
On the other hand solar irradiation is damagingin case of excessrr,
exposure. It can have short term and long term adverseeffects. It ni:rr
cause sunburn with symptoms of mild irritation to serious inflammarr,,r,
from a slight erythema to blistering on skin. There can be shiverii,r,
fever and nausea, and sometimes pruritus. Releaseof histamine by tlr,
90
tr,rrrrr1,tlrr. latent period preceding the appearanceof effects of

of
r::rF'lrr. t,lr.locltemicaldegraclationproducts formed by the effect
radical
free
of
series
a
off
trigger
to
irr,r,lr,rti()il
believed
are
:*l*r
iEr ti'rr l,,rilrrrl',to the formation of the biologically active substances
diffuse into tire dermal blood vesselsand produce the
=lri,t, rrltrrrr,rlt.ly
:1rilrl=rrrlrt'r:;t'syrnptomsmentionedabove.
ll,- | rr,r$'lt'tlgc
of long-termhazardsof sun-rayshas led to manufacr=rirrp,rl ,r \,r'r:rloosllleticpreparationsto protectthe skin from sun rays'
| ,.=rrr.lrr1,r,'Prtt;ttions
should protect the skin as effectively as possible
E;,fi, rlrr rr(,\r()useffects of radiation without reducing the beneficial
l i ()n agai n stult r avioletr ays is also occasionallyr equir ed
= ti .,ri l ,r,rtt.t
=i:iiu,l,r,trr p;rrlicttlarly clrugindustry' mountaineering,and armed forces'
ttf this effect has led to suggestion to incorporate
i t+c I rr,,rrl,'rlp,,-:
r.!ri:,r. r,,, rr rttllke-up bases, face porvders' creams and after shave
in alcohol and silicone oil afford
i.,riilr,= | rlilryclroxybenzophenone
=+.pilfIt |lrillt.ttion for people highly photosensitive"Presentlyseveral
have launchedcold or vanishing creamsor lotions
= :rrret.ir, r,ntP:tttics
,..r ,1 r i r r i l r l '
l l l l " ( 'l ( 'C n
agen t s .
rt-r, l,r, l):rtirtionsare used to achieve suntan faSter to inCreaSemore

a .t.'l :!l l "l l
Fl,tettlr,
il4i,il
*l4i,r=l
M t t 'h a n i s m of th e Ski n
l\\'(l lactors are responsible for natural protection of skin
'rillrtllll
(l I llriekncssof the stratumcon"leuln

r ' I I' rrrnr:ti tation
of t he skin
i' li., 1,,r'rr rt:l)oltedthal thickening of the stratum corneum occurs
i: r il, r r r,l solar irracliationby increasingrnitotic rate nf epidermal
of erythemogt-nic
to the passag'e
rlrrr',rrrrkingit mnre itnperviousr
-,,,,==i,,,',
|
alst' iilCreaseSthe
!, | , rrr rrrcl;rninCcntent of the epiCler"lr,iS
of
ef
caLI ges Cessf q; nr 3: 11in
. ,' t," \\' ' r ' rl !l .c Skl, - 1.t i\ l r aeliat i, Dn
I II
92
A HANDBOOK OF COSNII
'
melanin which migrates upward towards stratum corneum and llr( 1"
surface and thus increases the resistance. Suntan prep?rotions "r't
facilitate this excess formation of melanin.
Principle of Effectiveness of Sunscreens
r'1rl
It is a fact that the exposureof unprotectedskin to sunlight 1111
in
sunbttrtt ,,''
produces the desired therapeuticeffect but also results
ihe subsequentpeeling off of the comeal layer is a cosmetic problerl I'
principle, this problem can be treated in different ways.
(l) A protective layer can be provided to the skin that prevcrrl, rl''
UV-rays to reach the skin either by absorbing or by reflecting llr' ,"
Some of the materials used in powders do actually reflect a c('rl''"
amount of UV-rays and are thus incorporated in suntan ptporlrlr,rr';
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide both have such property but the lirrrr,"
is better than the laffer. Preparationsreflecting UV-rays zlrevery t'll"
tive and used widely. However, these preparationshave the disadvrrrrr',;.
of eliminating the beneficial rays along with the harmful ones.
ti
(4) Substancesthat cause or acceleratetanning of the skin crtrrt''

applied. Dioxyacetone causestanning by forming a brown complex * 'rl'
the keratin of the corneal layer. 8-methoxypsoralene when lrrl,."
10-20 rng internally 2 hours before exposure to the sun, accelct;tt,,
tannins and avoids sunbum.
SUNBURN PREPARATIONS
Cosrneticsunbum anctrsuntanpreparationsmay be classifiecl','r,
three groups:
(1) Sunscreeri
preparations
(2) Palliativespreparations
(3) Sinrulativepreparations
93
ll ; \urrscreen Preparations
I lrr':;t:are the most important group of preparations. Sunscreens
=lr,,lhl t.itlrer scatterthe incident light effectively, or they should absorb
rly t.rytlrctlal portion of the sun's radiant energy. Various factors other
tlrrrrrllrt. tluration of exposureare also to be taken into account' For
Flryul'lc, background is important. Snow has a better effect on the
as it reflects a higher proportion of ultraviolet radiationthan
Irrrlrvrtlrr;rl
( )paque powder materials, either used in dry state or in a vehicle,
-r1r{l
,rrll ',t'rvcto scatterthe ultravioletlight falling upon them' Of them zinc
,rrrrlt. i:j rnost effective and superior to titanium dioxide. Other less
r.llr'rtivt: substancesare kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide,
trrlr t.tr Particle size of these substancesin these preparationsis also an
l ri l l )')tl i i l l l factor.
llrc iclcal sunscreenagent should have the following characters( | ) Absorb light preferentialiy over the range of 280 mp-320 mp'
{.') l}e stableto heat, light and perspiration'
( l) lle non-toxic and non-irritant.
(2) To incorporate substancesin preparations to filter the sttrrr.,'by absorbing medium range UV-rays (280 mp-320 mp) but allon rr,g
rays of higher wave lengths to pass. All modern suntan preparatiorr',.r'*
based on this principle arrd contain such substances.
(3) Biologically effective substancescan be used effectively 1o 1".
vent symptoms of inflammation without reduction of tanning. As alt, ',1'
mentionedearlierthat damageof the cells by sunbum liberateshislittrr,',.
in the tissues, attempts have been made to treat it with antihistarrrr,"'
substancesto avoid inflammation. Because of their ?flti-inflamnt;rl,'rr
action, hydrocarbons and fluorocarbons may be useful in treating .rr',
burn but they are not recommended in suntan preparations.
',I INS('REEN PREPARATIONS
',
('l) Not be rapidly absorbed.

t" ) l l c neutral .
trr) lle readily soluble in suitablevehicles.
llrcro are numerous substances which are suitable for use as
;rtlll\(
l L'CIlSi
( | ) l)ara-aminobenzoicacid, its derivatives and glyceryl esters,like

cthylpara amino benzoale,glyceryl para-amino benzoate,etc'
( ') Salicylates,like amyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, etc.
(l) (linnamic acid derivatives, like benzyl cinnamate, menthyl
cinnamate,etc.
t,l) l)ihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives
tr) 'frihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives
((r) Certain hydrocarbons
( /) l)ibenzalacetoneand benzalacetophenone
(x) l)ihydroxy-napthoic acid and its salts
(')) Coumarin derivatives
t lo) I)iazolesand triazoles
t I l) Quinine salts
t | -l) Quinine derivatives
94
A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr
(13) Uric and violuric acids

(14) Tannic acid derivatives
(15) Hydroquinoneetc.
l
i
some other compounds also have been reported to be effective :;r,,,

screens. They are hydrazines of ortho- or para-aminobenzaldehyde,rrr,,i
of ortho- and para-aminoacetophenones. Also acetylated ami.,,
cinnarnates, a reaction product of carbethoxyethyr-triethoxysilaneu,irr,
p-aminobenzoic acid, have been reported to be useful as sunscreen.
As all the above substancesare of low molecular weight, they rrr,
quickly removed from the skin with water, necessitatingrepeatedapPrr
cation. This led to the developmentof water-insolublebut alkali-solrrlrl,
polymeric sunscreens.Thesepolymers are producedby reactingat lcrr,,r
two essentialco-monomers.
(l)
ll
An ethylenically unsaturatedcompound, capable of absorbirrl,

ult r av i o l e t ra d i a ti o n . l i k e c e rta i n substi tuted acryl art.,,
methacrylates,benzoates,ethers of 2,4-dihy droxybenzopheno
rr,.
2,2,4-Irihydroxybenzophenone, and ethers of benzotriaz,t,
derivatives.
(2) An acidic co-monomer, an ethylenically unsaturatedcarboxrrr,

acid containingat leastone free carboxyl group like acrylic aci,l
methacorylicacid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, etc.
These polyrneric sunscreens have been found to be resistftfll r.
removal by fresh or sea-water. But they can be removed easily b1, .,
slightly alkaline solution like soap-waterrvhich conveftswater-insolulrl,
polymer to water-solublealkaline salts due to presenceof free carboxr
lic acid group.
Different sunscreen agents are used in different concentratr.rr
accordingto their effectiveness.Sorneare used in higher eoucentrailorr
6-BYoand others at low concentrations like 2vo.
suitabie base can be used to make a final product of an aqueous,,,
aicoholic lotion, a fa@ cream, oil, or an emulsion" 'rhe vehicle ;rr,r
selection ol- other cornponentsof the procluct may contribute to r
eff-ecf
iveness. certain natural oils such as coconut oii, peanut , ,,r
muster-seedciil and olive oil have a fairly high absorptionabilit_r,ol'i
iight, bur mineral oil cloesnot ha'e such property. An antioxidant *
be irrcorp,:ratedif a naturai oii is used to ;rreventranciditv,
lrffecti""ehasc:g;:a.n
be preparedLr1,using lnixturesof natura!oils ,r
;nineraj oils. or by.' blending these with fatty acid Bljferrisu/,1,
L**=:,.
r &ts ,:ril,,r t(titrNPREPARATIoNS
95
i:'. fri,'l'\ l1r;rlrrrilate.Some effective protection from sunbum is also

yi,,.i,lr,l I'y white or yellow petroleum jelly and lanolin. All these
FrE F4i
' rrr' ,| | ,;conta' n som e per f um e and pr eser vat ive,if r equir ed.
| il r a=i'il;rllVcoloursare also used.
llrr' 1r1,111111'1
can be simple oil type, creamtype, lotion type, aqueous
* * l rri i ul tl pt' , gel typ e.
lrlsa rrl I'r.ocedurefor Manufacturing
llr,-',, prt:lrarationscan be aqueous or oily solutions, creams or
hrtion and gel type, the generalmethod will be different.
Erinrl.!i',r.
Fr,r111111111
types, aqueousor oily, can be preparedsimply by mixing
lrc,ltr',,lvirrg the sunscreenand other ingredientsin the vehicle, i.e.,
+dlFr,,r ,'rl, l)crfumeshould be added all of last.
I rFirnr l)rcparationsare emulsion type and are prepared by taking
irrgrerlrr=rrtr
ol'oil phase and aqueous phase separatelyand heating to
lirlrrll ,rr tlissolveall ingredientsand then mixing them together with
stirring till the cream is produced. Perfumeshould be added
',irttrr,'u,,
1flsl , rr'lrrr11the cream to near room temperatureand milling further.
lrrrr,rr., can be solutions or emulsion type and can be prepared
**rrr1111t';t (iels are highly viscous aqueouspreparations.Thickening
rgent rr rlispcrsed in water separately. Other ingredients are mixed
irrperlrrriul(l dissolvedin water. Then the dispersionof thickening agent
ie rri.ll n,itlr otherswith stirring to preparegel.
'.,rrrrr'rrsclirlformulaeare mentionedbelow:
OIL TYPE
Formula I
I lomomenthyl salicylate
Mineral oil
l)erfume
8.0 gm
92.0 gm
q.s.
For m ula2
I lornomenthyl salicylate
Mineral oil
Isopropyl myristate
l'crfume
8.0 gm
80.0 gm
12.0 gm
q.s.
Formula 3
lsopropylmyristate
Antiviray
90.0 gm
10.0gm
I h F
;!IIIII.t I( IIl N
Mcl hyl parahydroxy benzoate

I'ropyl parahydroxybenzoate
q.s
q.s
q.s
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
Water
Perfume
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
Formula7
mYristate
lsopropyl
Antiviray
l'oilct spirit
I' crl ume
('ol our (alcohol-soluble)
8.0 gm
7.5 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
Stearic acid
Isopropyl myristate
Abracol PGS (emulsifuing agent)
8.0 gm
1.7 gm
6.0 gm
3.5 gm
0.8 gm
80.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
B. Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
ll
Tween
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropyl myristate
Mineral oil
B. Glycerin
Water
Perfume
For m ula8
l ri l trosolA 1000
Mineral oil
Stearicacid
I'araffin wax
lleeswax
l'ctroleumjelly
S i l i conefluid
l'olyethylene glycol monostearate
5.0 gm
10.0gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
l'riethanolamine
Water
I)erfume
l)reservative
2.0 gm
60.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
of 'A' to a temperature of about 70"C' Heat

llflrt rrrp,.r'cdients
ol''B' to Sametemperatureand add slowly to the mixture of
iirgrr,lrr.rrt:;
{
',lrr rrrrtilcool. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to
Formula6
A . Antiviray
2.0 gm
10.0gm
88.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
I tr,,u,,lvcrtttttvtray in isopropyl myristate. Dissolveperfume and

.rrl um l rt ^.pi ri t. Mi x b ot h.
5.00 gm
72.50gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula5
A. Antiviray
q.s'
LOTION TYPE
CREAM TYPE
B. Glycerin
q.s.
rllr lol,r.tlrct.the ingredientsof 'A' and heat at about 70"c. In a

:=t'4fdt.v,",'.cldissolvethe preservativesin the glycerin with the aid of
i:itle hF:rl Arltl the remaining ingredientsof 'B' and heat it to about
jl I
A,Ll rnixture of 'B' to 'A', slowly with continuousstirring. Stir
.ri rti lr rr' 1.,r,Ll i rtgthe per f um eat about 30oC.
Isopropyl myristate may be replaced by isopropyl palmitate. Preparation is simply. by solution technique. Mix the perfume, colour,
preservative with isopropyl myristate and sunscreenagent with oil and
mix both together.
Formula4
A. Homomenthyl salicylate
Non-ionic emulsifier (tween)
Mineral oil
Spermaceti
97
PI{EPARA TI O N S
5.0 gm
7.5 gm
1.0 gm
15.0gm
17.0gm
cE rttl Ii "(
AQUEOUS SOLUTION TYPE

Formula9
7.0 gm
l;iltrosol B
0.5 gm
Methyl cellulose
1.0 gm
54.5 gm
q.s.
t-i
98
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMEI'I(:
2.0 gm
10.0gm
80.5 gm
q.s
Glycerin
Ethyl alcohol
Water
Perfume
Dissolve filtrosol 'B' in ethyl alcohol and methyl cellulose in watcr

and glycerin mixture. Mix the two parts. Methyl cellulose is added t,,
increasethe viscosity.
r h l,
99
STJNSCREEN PREPARATIONS
I'rrlliative preparations are either aqueous solutions or oil-in-water

errrrrlsionsand should be able to produce both protective and cooling
*llct:[ to relieve the sunburn. These preparationsshould not be greasy or
illy bccausethey will retard the antiseptic effect as the antisepticswill
,,,,1l,.r irble to mix with secretionsto prevent bacterial growth'
I hcse sunburn correctives are generally familiar as calamine or
Formula l0
FiltrosolB
Distilled extractof witch hazel
Propyleneglycol
Water
Perfume
Watersolubledye
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate
5.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
75.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Dissolve the preservative in propylene glycol and add the remaining

ingredients. Mix well.
GEL TYPE
F o rmu l al l
Carboxy vinyl polymer
Propylene glycol
l'riethanolamine
Filtrosol B
Water
Perfume
2.0 gm,
9.0 gm
1.5 gm
5.0 gm
82.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Dissolve the sunscreenagent (filtrosol B) in a small portion of water.

Dissolve carboxy vinyl polymer in the triethanolamineand gradually add
the main proportion of water. Eissolve the preservativein the propylene
glycol and add to the earlier mixture. Then add the solution of sun
screen agent. When the gel is uniform add the perfume.
(2) Palliative Preparations
These preparations are used for the relief of initation and other
problems resulting from sunbum. As sunbum causes damage to skin
cells, in several cases it can be as serious as steam burn, there is always
a possibility of secondary bacterial infection. So, all these preparations
should also be antiseptic.
qnr,,ilivcarea of skin.
Formula 12
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Camphor
Alcohol
Glycerin
Rose water
Methyl parahydroxY benzoate
15.0gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
59.0 gm
q.s.
Mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth paste with the glycertn.
ltilrv ildd suffcient amount of rose water to make a crearn. Dissolve the
ililil|)ltot. in the alcohol and mix the cream and add water to volume. To
g"r ,, lilvourable shadewith calamine a small amount of fenic oxide may
lrr irtltlod.
Formula13
8'0 gm
Zinc oxide
8'0 gm
Preparedcalamine
7'0 gm
glYcol400
Polyethylene
glycol 400 monostearate3'0.gm
Polyethylene
60'0 gm
Lime water
14'0 gm
Water
q.s.
Preservative
tv'lix the powder materialsthoroughly and add polyethyleneglycol
and add lime water to make a cream' with stining.
ltlil ilr()nostearate
IOO
A HANDBOoKoF COSIuETICS
Add further lime water and make volume with water. preservative can
be dissolved in water.
Formula 14
Triethanolamine stearate
Liquid paraffin
Water
Zinc phenosulphonate
4.8 gm
10.0gm
83.2 gm
2.0 gm
Mix triethanolamine stearate and liquid paraffin properly adding to

water and heat it to 70"c with continuous trituration to achieve an
emulsion.
A.
F o rmu l a1 5
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Mineral oil/vegetable oil
Emulsiffing wax
Camphor
B. Glycerin
Rose water
10.0gm
5.0 gm
25.0gm
5.0 gm
1.0gm
5.0 gm
49.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix the emulsiffing wax and mineral oil and heat it to about 70"C.
Take water preheated ar 70oc and add to the first mixture with continuous stirring to prepare a cream. Dissolve the preservative and camphor
in the glycerin and mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth naste.
Add water to a creamy consistencyand mix with previously prepared
cream.
(3) Simulative Preparations
They are also termed as artificial suntan preparations. There is a
good demand of such preparationsto obtain a suntan. The purpose of
enhanced colour may be to prevent skin damage by absorption of
erythemal radiation or to indicate the well-being of the health. An
artificial suntan normally is obtained by staining of the skin, whatever
may be the purpose. Though several natural materials, like walnut juice,
olive oil extract or cudbear and henna, were used from ancient times for
skin stain, they are not favourable nowadays. Now mainly synthetic
staining materials are used.
(a) Systemic suntan : Some substanceshave been found to increase
pigmentation and thus producing suntan. The need to speed up the rate
rb
ht rN 5('l (l i l l N P R E P AR A TION S
101
the active
af alilr tirrrrrirrgled to try out such substances. Psoralens,
folk-mediEgyptian
ancient
an
rrirEtlllr'nts isolated from ammimajus,
pigmentation and thus tanning'
'iile lr,rvc bcon reported to enhance
has
{ll,rrp',1 tlrt:scalkoxypsoralensand-particularly 8-methoxypsoralen
administraoral
for
formulation,
l,ee,r.,t,'tr:;ivcly studied and a tablet
of
,rf l{ rrrcrhoxypsoralenhave been marketed in USA' Ingestion
11,11i
of
exposure
on
pigmentation
tlt !l lrt,ol this substanceled to increased
rl i fi l rr ' ,rrrrl i gl w
rt i thi n 2 - 4 hour s.
can be obtained by
lhl Slnining preparations : An artificial suntan
like
itintrl, tlt., skin with some chemical substances' Chemicals
produce
to
used
are
etc'
erythrulose
juglone,
lawsone,
,lihr,lr,,ry:rtctone,
I =Frl l l rr'l l l i tnent
stai n.
white crystI Ittltwlroxyqcetone (l-3-dihydroxy-2-propanone) is a

It is a
taste'
sweet
a
and
odour
r+llilr lrrrwtlcr with a characteristic
skin
in
present
acids,
amino
itqrrlnp ;rgcnt and it reacts with certain
application'
after
hours
3-6
IEl4tilr. iilr(l produces a brown stain within
is not
lhe , rrlrrutis I'urtherincreasedby exposureto light' If application
even
an
get
To
staining'
ql.,1r.1,r'ltctly it can produce an uneven
lf
emulsion'
as
formulated
,,rd staini.tj, it can preferablybe
.g3,1,,,,t,,,,,
to
stabilize
glycol
a
i* ,'',,',1rrssolution, the preparation should include
'give
rhu a,,lrrliottand provide a continuousfilm' As this stain cannot
incorporated
be
can
ciri I'tillc(tion against sunburn, a sunscreenagent
also for
int,r tlrr' llrcparation to achieve a quick tanning effect and
to 4'0o
in
3'0
used
Fi,,lr,lr,rrtrrgainstsunburn' Dihydroxyacetone'is
Higher
t .,t the solution is to be adjusted between 6'0-6'5'
*i,,1 1,1
8'0 no
I rifrrr'illr;rliotrat lower pH producespatchy staining' At pH above
I rl rrur t' r prrtduted.
(2-hydroxyI ii ) lttglone(5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone)or lawsone
gives good
I I l,rl,lrtlr:rquinone)in combination with dihydroxyacetone
is obtained
=[ainrrF lrrgloneis obtained from walnut shells and lawsone
also
isopropanol
in
50Vo
dihydroxyacetone
of
filflf r f lr'nnit. 307o solution
F,,rffirffrnp.0.035% juglone or llawsone is normally used as artificial
=r4iillil[',1lrcparation.
in cosmetic
trrrl l')n'lhrulose is also used as artificial staining agent
according
0'5-10%
used
is
It
l,l-|rilirlr()n. lt is butane-1,3,4-triol-2-one'
t,r llrr=rlcgt'ccof browning required.
system
',lrrrrrirtgsubstancesare taken in a suitable solvent or vehicle
marPreparations
etc'
sorbitol
glycol,
*irtrrrrinH alcohol, propylene
cream
For
(emulsion)'
type
cream
or
!.t.,1 rrrc cither solutions
102
A HANDBOOK OF COSME] I( .
*I r
preparations
suitableemulsifring agentsor surfaceactiveagentsshorr,l
be selected' Also the preparationsshould have suitable
pJrfumesu,,,r
preservatives.
Formula 16
Dihydroxyacetone
Ethanol (95%)
Sorbitol syrup (70%o)
Boric acid powder
Allantoin
Water
Perfume
4.0 gm
28.0 gm
3.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
0.3 gm
60.7 gm
2.0 gm
Dissolve the dihydroxyacetone in sorbitol syrup.

Make the solutiorr
_
of other things in water and add alcohor and mix
with first part. Adjusr
pH at 6.0 by addition of lactic acid.
Formula lZ
Dihydroxyacetone
Propylene glycol
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
3.0 gm
88.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
the preservative and dihydroxyacetone in propylene

,Dissolve
glycol
and part of water. Add arcohol and perfume
and remainder of iater.
Mix and adjust the pH at 6.0 with the uaartion of
lactic acid.
LOTION TYPE
Formula lg
Sunscreenagent (water soluble)
Dihydroxyacetone
Propylene glycol
Alcohol
Water ,.
Perfume
A. Mineral oil
10.0gm
3.0 gm
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
57.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
EMULSION TYPE
Formula 19
Non-ionic emulsifier (tween)
10.0gm
10.0gm
103
TI INS( I(IjIIN PREPARATIONS
It
l)ihydroxyacetone
l'opyleneglycol
Water
Itorfume
Mcthyl parahYdroxY benzoate
l'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
71.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Fornrula20
Sunscreenagent (oil soluble)
Non-ionic surfactant(tween)
llthylene glycol monostearate
10.0gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
l'ropyleneglycol
I)ihydroxyacetone
Water
I)erfume
Methyl parahYdroxYbenzoate
I'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate
8.0 gm
3.0 gm
74.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
r l ::r I
6 111
lI
.
\lrr logcther ingredientsof 'A' and heat to 75oC' Dissolve the

rllln,lr,ryrcctone and preservativesin propyleneglycol and water" Heat
cont inuousst ir r ing. Cool while
i t ,i 1,,,t(; 75.,C . A dd, B't o'A'wit h
to .l-5oCand add perfurne'
-ririint,
I r rrl rrnl i oh
\ . rrr ;rrty other preparations.identification and quantitative determirr,ltr,,ilr)l various ingredientsare essentialfor evaluation and quality
..,iltr,,1Poirrlof view. Apart from theseroutine tests sornespecialtests
for thesetypes of products.
ir, rl'., rrt:ccssary
t,. ,t,.t(.ililinccl
and comparedwith any other standardsutrstance.
tlt l'lrvthemal dosage : It is importantto estimatethe erythemally
. nr r trvt. r''diation or F;-vitons/cm2,transmitted by a suntan preparation.
|,1 (.rvthclnai energy is the prnduct of the soiar energy transrnitted
104
A FIANDBOOK OF COSMI llt
through the film ofsuntan preparation and the effectivenessfactor at tlnr

wavelength.
(3) Sunscreen index : This is evaluation of the relativ scrcnrrr;:
activity of the sunscreencompounds. This is measurementof extinctr,,"
coefficient (El'i.,,)
CHAFTER.T
at 308 mp wavelengthand comparisonwith otlr,r
308 mp is the peak wavelength for effective sunburn.

(4) In-vivo skin testing : This is a direct test on animal sl r'
particularly rabbit, the site normally used is either backsideor abdorn,,,
as these sites have maximum sensitivity. Preparationsare applied or' ,
specific site and exposed to radiation along with a control unprotc(t, ,l
site, for a specific period of time. The effectsare observedat the errrl,'t
the period. Several factors or variables are to be taken care of durinl, tl,,
test as they may influence the results. Such variables or factors.",
radiation source, size of the test field, etc.
Hair
have
irr strrrl) and design hair preparationsit is very much essentialto
and
body
the
parts
of
l.rr.,rvl.:dgeof hair. Haii is one of the vital
sebawith
along
, ,,n',itlcrcdto be accessorystructure of the integument
r ,'r,rrsglands, sweat glands and nails' They are also known as epidermal
,lr,,u,,tives as they originate from the epidermis during embryological
of
rllvclopment. Hair is an important component of the overall appeal
tlr,' lrtrinan body. Presenceof hair in odd place can make a negative
of a
ellr.t I, whereashair on head is a part of overall attraction and beauty
or
Irrrnurrrbeing. So, people take a lot ofcare of hair to make an impact
i rgrpci tl .
llnlr und Hair Follicles
llclirre puberty the hair is mainly present on the scalp, the eyebrows
places
rrrrrtcyolashes,irrespectiveof sex. At puberty hair grows in other
the
lalr.iixillae, over the pubes in both sexes and in male as beard on
from
lirrc. 'Ihough all rnammals have hair but hair in man is different
nl l rcts.
I lairs can be found nearly all over the surface ofthe skin except over
o,rrrrc.specificsites like the sides and soles of the feet, the palms of the
lrrrntls,the sides of the fingers and toes' the lips, and portions of the
,'rtcrnal genitalia. There are about 50,00'000 hairs on the human body
,rrrrl ()8 per cent of them are on the general body surface and about
l,(x),(x)0-1,20,000are on the head. Population density of normal adult
rt.rrlJrhair is reported to be between 225 hair cm2 on average with
uilrirrble.ung" o? 175-300 hair cm2. The rate of hair growth has been
of
rr'rrtcd to 6e varying with sites. Scalp and chin have highest rate
per
mm
A"27-0'40
p.rowtlr. The rate of growth of scalp hair is between
,t,,y 'l'he growth rate of axillary hair is nearly same' The growth rate
l,,r lrair on Uody surface is about 0'2 mm per day' Though the daily
vilriations of temperature have no effect on the growth rate but the study
there
rrrrlit:utcdhigher growth rate of beard in summer than winter. Also
in
hair
r.; (lnc study report which indicated that the growth of scalp
105
106
A HANDBOoKoF cosMll.nl,
f h,
women is faster than men. The growth rate of scalp hair is more rr,
young and adults and declines in old ase.
Cuticlecovering
hair shaft
Sebaceous
gland
Medulla
Connectivetissue
Glassy
membrane
i l A tR
t0'l
( l ) l lrt: internal root sheath that surrounds the hair root and the
rlct:pcrportion of the shaft.
I lrc cxternal root sheath that extends from skin surface to the
l rrri rrnatri x.
t 't
r 1) | lrc glassy membrane,a thickened basementmembrane wrapped

irr a dense connective tissue sheath.
frr tlrc ;rrlult integument there are two types of hair-
Externalroot
sheath
Rool
hair plexus
lnternalroot
sheath
Fig. 7-1 Schematic

structure
ofcross_section
ofhair
Hair production is 'a processof mutual inv.lvement of both dermi:;
and epidennis and originatesfrorn hair foilicres. A schematicstructurt.
<rfhair is shown in Fig. 7-1. Hair follicles extend deep into the derrnis.
typically projecting into the underlyingsubcutaneouslayer. The base
rir
the hair follicle, called hair papilla, is a peg of connectivetissuecontai,
ing capillaries and nerves. Hair papilla is further surroundeclbv hair
bulb which consistsof epithelial celrs" Hair production is a specllize,l
cornificationprocess. The epithelial layer involved in hair proiuction is
called the hair matrix. Basal cells near the centre of the hair matrix
divide by mitosis producing daughter ceils and are gradually pushetr
towards the surface. The new soft cells are funnelled up throush thr
constricted follicle, The cells proiluced closest to the centre "ur ,1.,.
matrix fonn the medulla or core of the hair. cells closer to the edge *l
the developing hair f,orm the cortex which is relatively hard. soft arrtl
flexible keratin is presenl in the medulla but the cortex contains ha*l
keratin which gives the hair its stiffness. coat of the hair is callcri
cuticle which is fbrrned by the dead cells at the surfaceof the hair. lr
contains hard keratin. The root of the hair is extended from the hai;
bulb to the point- about halfway to the ski' surface where inrernar
organizationof tlre hair is cornplete. The hair shaft is extendeclfrori
this point to the exposed tip of the hair. T'he size, shape,eolour arr,l
nature of the hair shaft are highly variatrle.
l'he cells of the hair follicle u'ail, iue organizedinto thr:eedistinctrivt
concentriclayers and inclu,Ce--
| | ) Vcllums hairs : These are the fine peach fuzz hairs located over
r*rrr,
lr ,'l tlrc:body surface.
tl) 'l'crminal hairs: These are heavy, more deeply pigmented,and
*rrFlrnrcscurly. Examplesare hairs on head, including eyebrowsand
F l F l ttl l tr " l
I lrlr)ur of hairs can vary from person to person. This reflects

dtllFrnr('cs in structure and variations in the pigment produced by
rrrFldr.(ytcs at the hair papilla. Though these characteristicsare geneti,cllr rL'tcrrrrined,
but hormonal and environmentalfactorscan influence
tfrc r.rrrlirions of the hair. with increasingage, pigment production
rlFrrFrrir'\ :rrrd the hair colour lightens towards gray. white hair is the
reallt rrl t:ornbination of a lack of pigment and the presence of air
htrilrL.r within the medulla of the hair shaft. But this change in
ei,lrlrrrli()llis gradualas the hair is dead and inert.
Alrrrrt liom keratin, it also contains a small amount of uric acid.
|
rs irlso varied according to the mineral content. In brown hair
'Lrlr
thererr titrllon, nitrogen, hydrogen, phosphorus,sulphur and water. Iron
' "rrlrrrf is rrrore in red hair. Normally carbon content is about 44yo
lri, lr r.; rrrurethan othqr elements.
I xl r l furnsof ,H ai r
llirrr lurs several important functionsI I ) | lrc hair on the head protect the scalp from ultraviolet light,
trrslrion round the head. and ir.sulatethe skull.
t')
lrycbrows protect the eye from small foreign particles and

irrsr:cts.Also it diverts sweat from the eyes.
( | ) Vivrissae, the hairs, guarding the entrancesto nostrils and exterrrrl car canals filter the air and help prevent the entry of small
irtst:ctsand foreign Particles.
r.l) Ilrdy hair helps in evaporation of perspiration and draining of
cxtcrnal water from the bodv.
108
A HANDBooK
oF cosMETrcs
(5) Hair is also part of sensingfunction. As, to check a root hair

plexusofsensorynervessurroundsthe baseofeach hair follicle,
one can feel the movementof the shaft of even a single hair.
This sensitivity acts as an early-warningsystemthat may help to
prevent injury.
It is responsiveto severalexternal stimulating conditions like rage,
fear cold etc. and standserect when stimulatederector pili pull on thc
follicles and force the hairs to standerect.
Ailments of Hair
There can be some ailments to the normal health of hair and can
causetrouble. There can be problem in pigmentationand thus changing
the colour of the hair.
Baldnessor alopeciais one importantproblem and can be of different kinds. Baldnesscan occuras a resultofdeficiency ofdiet, ill health
or certain operations. Common baldnessis of different type and occurs
in maximumnumbers. In this the hair is lost graduallyand it usually
starts at the crown and the temple. Common baldnessis normally
inherited. It can be passedon by the motherto her sons.
Dandruff is causedby skin irritation,diseaseor microbialinfection.
In the first one it occursbecausethe stratumcorneumshedslarge scales
which are visible. This can be due to excessivebrushing,or scratching,
strong lotions and soft alkaline soapsusedto wash the hair. Thesecan
harm the skin and break down the outer layer of the epidermis. The
secondform of dandruff is due to disea^qe
which causesthe large scales
to fall on the shoulders. The more the headis scratched.the fasterthese
scalesare produced.
Stepsto Keep Hair Healthy
(l) Wash the hair with mild shampooswhich are reinforced by
active substances.
Q) After shampooingtreat the hair with rinsing preparationsand
setting lotions in order to impart the gloss and firmnessto it.
(3) Groom the hair with hair conditionersin order to make it elastic
and protect it from deteriorationafter frequentpermanentwaving.
(4) Preservethe hair and its growth by constantattention,using hair
lotions and hair treatrnentpackscontainingactive substances.
*t,
ilAilr
109
ffrlr ('rre Preparations

ln overcomeailmentsor otherproblemsof hair and also for decorallye nr heuutificationpurposesvarious hair care preparationsare widely
ccrl 'l'lrc need or demandof such productshas increasedover the
tcarr lt sharesa high portionof cosmeticproductsmarketed.
All lhe hair careproductscan be classifiedin the following way and
in the proceedingchaptersaccordingly.
rlll In rliscussed
(l) llalr cleansers: Variousshampooslike clear liquids,liquid
gtimrr. solid creamsor gels, anti-dandruffshampoos,oil shampoos,
pawrlerr,dry shampoos,
etc.
ll) Hrlr dressings: Anhydrousbrilliantines,pomades,hair oils,
hair
hair lacquers,alcohol-based
htlr rreRrns,gum basedhair dressings,
fdkrrrs,rcsinlotions,sprays.
l.l! llnlr wayers, curlers and straighteners : Hot waving, cold
*cvllrg, lepid waves,roller and pin perms,instantperms.
({l lhlr tonics : Preparations
containingvarious substanceslike
dcrivatives,
vitamins,etc.
ul;rhur
(t) lluir removers: Depilatories,
epilatories.
(6) llair dyes and bleaches(hair colorants) : Variousdyes and
hlertlrIrrgpreparations.
l7f Shavingpreparations:Soaps,creams.
TI
I
I
rhr
1i
tiI
lll
r.') lr should effectivelywash the hair.

t I t lt should produce a good amount of foam to satis$ the psychohrgical requirementsof the user.
r'l I llrc shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.
CHAPTER-8
ll
l A tR (' T.E A N SI NG pREpARATI O NS
Hair Cleansing Preparations
lt should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good, man_
rrtrlcabilityand a minimum of fly-away.
l r r ) It should impart a pleasant fragranceto the hair.
{it
I ll
It should not make the hand rough and chapped.

t l l l ll should not have any side effects or causesinitation to skin or
(:yc
l
i
llr. rrr:ri. problem of cleaning hair is removal of fat or greasewhich

,rnrls ;r g..d detergent. Availability of a wide range of synthetic
Jerr.rF.rrr:;
has led to a flood of products in the market. Detergent power
ur lltr-t(.1tovalof dirt involves( l) 'Ihe ability of the detergent to wet both the dirt and the
, substratehair fibre.
l
I
I
I
SHAMPOOS
1.1) Lowering of interfacial tension to such a level that displace_

ment of dirt or greasematerials becomes easy.
(i) Dispersion of dirt particles for easy washing and removal.
lt .;clcc[ detergent(s)for using in shampoos,the following factors
= l rl ttl rll rr'corrsi dere d( | ) Safety or non-toxicity
1.1) Fiaseof distribution and lathering power
( | ) l,ustre imparted to hair
1.1) tlase of combing wet hair
( \ ) Speed of drying
1{r), Haseof setting dry hair
I onrpori ti onof S ham poos
are the main component of shampoos. Mainly anionic
"rrl;r(l;ults
-"rtrlirrlirnlsare used. cationic, non-ionic and ampholytic surfactants
hatr i tl .;osome use.
The furictions of a sharnpoo are expectedto be various.
A good an.
accep able shampoo should have the fbllowing characteristics:
(l) {t should effectirlelyand compretely
remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty substances,loose corneal
cens from thc
hair and other resid'al substancesofhair dressings
or settings or
other materials.
llr. r:rw rnaterialsused in manufacture of shampoosare classified as:

( | ) l'rincipal surfactants which provide detergency and foam.
1-l) Secondary surfactants which improve detergency foam and
hair condition.
1I ) other additives which impart other characteristics to the
shampoo products.
ll0
!-
tl2
A FI,ANDBOOKOF COSMETI(]S
(l) Principal Surfactants

Anionic surfactantsare mostly used as principal surfactants. They
have very good foaming properties. Non-ionic surfactantshave good
cleansingactivity but do not have sufficient foamingpower. So, they
are not much used as principal surfactants. Though cationic surfactants
have good foaming characteras well as some cleansingpower but arc
not much used as they are toxic and causedamageto the eye. But at
non-toxic low concentrationthey are used in hair conditioners.Soaps
are not preferredas their solutionsare alkalineand make hair dull. In
hard water, they leave a deposit of calcium and magnesiumsalts on thc
hair shaft. However,they are cheapand thereforeare usedin low-priced
shampoos. Ampholytics are generallynot as good as anionics. Also
they are more expensive. So, they are mainly used as secondary
surfactantsand as good hair conditioners.The variousclassesof principal surfactantsusedin shampoosare mentionedbelow.
Alkyl sulphates : Alkyl sulphatsare most widely used anionic
particularlylauryl and myristyl sulphates.They aresulphated
detergents,
derivativesof long chain fatty alcohols, C12 or above, obtainedby
catalytic reduction of fatty acids of coconut and palm kernel oils.
Normally both of them are taken together as lauryl gives a greater
of cetyl,
volume of latherand myristyl givesgreaterrichness.Sulphates
like
lauryl
sulphates
Various
of
salts
are
not
much
useful.
octyl or decyl
lauryl
monoethanol
lauryl
sulphate,
sodium lauryl sulphate,triethanol
sulphateand ammoniumlauryl sulphateare used. As magnesiumlauryl
sulphateis less hygroscopicit is preferablyusedin powdershampoos"
Sodiumlauryl sulphate,the mostcommonlyusedalkyl sulphatesalt,has
poor solubility in cold water but solubility increaseswith temperature
and has good solubility at normal tqmperatureof 35-40'C. Triethanolaminealkyl sulphateis presentin most of the presentday shampoos.
Alkyl polyethyleneglycol sulphates(alkyl ether sulphates): Sulphate derivativesof lauryl alcohol ether with polyethyleneglycol or
are good cleansers.Normally a chainof 2-3 ethylene
similar substances
is
oxide molecules condensed. Sodium salts'of thesealkyl ether sulphatesare more water soluble than sodium lauryl sulphateand thus a
product can be made. They also have high foamingpower.
concentrated,
They can also act as solventsfor non-polaradditivesnormallyrequired
are not good
to be incorporated'inshampoos.Thoughthesesubstances
hair conditionersbut as they are cheapadditionalconditionerscan be
the deficiency.
easilyaddedto compensate
I lr t
llAlR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
I 13
()ther anionic surfactantsoccasionally used are sodium salt ofalkyl

herrrenc sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, faffy acid soaps. ,As fatty
rtirl soapshave problem with hard water due to presenceof calcium and
rurrgrrcsium,addition of sequestering agents like salts of EDTA or
1roly phosphatesis required for stabilization.
(2) Secondary Surfactants
'l'heseare added to produce rnore foam and to improve the condition
ll lhc hair. They are mostly anionic or ampholytic detergents. There
Ire scveral categoriesof detergentswhich are used only in conjunction
witlr other detergentsmentioned under principal surfactants.
'l'lreseinclude dialkyl sulphosuccinates,monoalkyl sulphosuccinates,
trrethyltaurides,fatty acid alkanolamides,acyl amino acids, acyl peptides,
nt yl sarcosins,monoglyceride sulphates,turkey red oil, and secondary
nlhyl sulphates. Some of them are used specifically in particular type of
rlrnrrrpoos.
Monoalkyl sulphosuccinates are non-irritant to the eyes and thus may
lrc rrsod in body shampoos. Dialkyl derivatives like sodium di (ethyllrrxyl) sulphosuccinateand the di (tertiary) nonyl sulphosuccinateare
vr.ry good wetting agents and are used where wetting and penetration
nr.lionare required.
Mcthyl taurides, amides of methyl taurine, are amphoteric. They
lrrrvc the hair in excellent condition because of the presence of the
group. Though their foaming power is not very good but they are
'rlri(lc
trrtorporatedas hair conditioners.
lratty acid alkanolamides, particularly monoalkanolamides such as
and isopropanolamides,are used along with lauryl
rrrorrocthanolamides
rrrlplrateto increasethe solubility of lauryl sulphate and thus to increase
l ul l rcr.
Acyl amino acids are in ampholytic class and example is acyl
It rrrninopropionateswhere chain length of acid is of C12-C14for best
ftrrrrrring
activity.
Acyl peptides are acyl polyamino acids produced by the reaction of
chloride and hydrolyzed proteins. They have excellent hair condi'rryl
Irorring power. They are costly and have less foaming power.
Acyl sarcosins contain a CON group and have good hair conditioning
ellccts. They are normally used along with alkyl sulphatesor alkyl ether
aulphates.
Secondary alkyl sulphates were used earlier but are not much used
rrowirdays. They are good cleansers but have a strong characteristic
lt4
odour and have effect on hair. They also hydrolyze on storage. Occasionally, they are used along with alkyl benzene sulphonatesand alkyl
sulphates. Monoglyceride sulphates, like sulphated monolaurin, are
same as lauryl sulphatesand used in various commercial products.
Turkey red oils form a light coating over hair and are preferably used
in oil shampoos. They have effective cleansing character but very low
foaming effect. The important turkey red oils are sulphonatedcastor oil
and sulphonated olive oil. Normally they are used in combination.
Alkyl phosphates are normally used in low foaming shampoos as
they have low foaming power. They also have milder effects on hair.
Some other anionic surfactantsare also occasionally used in low foaming shampoos,as they are good cleansersbut not a good foaming agent.
I hI
IIAIR CT-EANSING
PREPARATIONS
I l5
cl'l btrrlp and produces a good conditioning effect on the hair. Also
Frrli'rr lryclrolysatescontaining amino acids are incorporated,for condillrrrrlrF.t:f'lcct.
(r') I'carlscent agents : Pearlscent agents are also used to give
=.1e,
r,rl r:onditioning to hair. They brighten the hair. For this purpose
errl'rlrtrrlcd4-methyl coumarins particularly 4-methyl-7-diethylaminoeri rl rrl nri nand 4-m et hyl- 5, 7- dihydr ocoum ar inar e used in 0. 2- lYo
r rrrrrrrrllrtir)n and they act betterat pH between4.5-6. Thesesubstances
r;ll,'r I liglrt. Fluorescentmaterialsare also occasionallyused.
lrl) Sr:questrants : They form a water soluble complex with Caalrl M1iI and thus prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or
+lslnrHcnlsby these two divalent ions present in water. Sometimes
r olr rrrrrr-:;lltdispersing agents are incorporated to disperse the salts
like sodium salt
l,,rnrt'rlby the divalentsCa#, Mg++ etc. Sequestrants
,,1 | | ) l'A (ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid) are used to entrap the
rltcrlcring ions like Ca++ and Mg++ presentin the water.
(c) 'l'hickening agents : To make shampoo preparationsviscous, for
(3) Other Additives

Several additives are incorporated in shampoo products to achieve
specialized charactersand other purposes. They can be classified as(a) Germicides and anti-dandruff agents
(b) Conditioning agents
(c) Pearlscentagents
(d) Sequestrants
(e) Thickening agents
(f) Colours
(g) Perfumes
(h) Preservatives
t.,r',r lr;rritfling and minimize wastage while pouring, thickening agents

4rF rr( orporated. The substancesnormally used for this purpose are
al prrr;rl t' s,pol yvi nyl alcohol, m et hyl cellulose, colloidal silicat es,
glycol esters etc. Sometimes a suitable combination of
gr',11r'llrylcne
=rrrf irrl;rrrls also make the preparation viscous. Sulphated castor oil
rl,rlpr 1vi11'
sulphatedolive oil is one such combination.
All the above items are not essential for a shampoo but can be
incorporated according to need and the specific purpose of the targeted
population.
(l) (lolours : Colours are preferred by several people and thus

,,rltrrlrlt'certified colours can be incorporated to produce a visually
:ttlrirrlivc impact. The colours should be water soluble.
(a) Germicides and anti-dandruffagents : Germicides and/or antidandruff agents are incorporated to prevent microbial infection of scalp
and to treat dandruff respectively. Common germicides used in soap can
be used in shampoosalso. There are quaternaryammonium compounds,
such as benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide etc.; some phenol derivatives;
tetramethyl thiuram disulphide, etc. Substancesused as anti-dandruff
agents are selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphide, zinc pyridinium-thiolN-oxide, zinc undecylenate,sodium sulphacetamideetc.
(g) I'crfumes : Perfumes are also incorporated to have an after-use

on the hair. They also help to mask the odour of the other
lrn;,rirnt:o
trrprt'rlietits,particularly detergents. Various perfumes are used for this
lrnrpo.ic.Perfumesare used in 0.3-1.0%.
(b)'Conditioning
agents : Conditioning agents are mainly fatty
substanceslike lanolin, oils; natural products like herbal extracts, egg,
amino acids, lecithin and polymeric substances.These substancesgive a
special conditioning effect to the hair. If amino acids are incorporated
into shampoos, after washing amino acid remains deposited on the hair
lh) l'reservatives : Preservativesare very important as most produtr irrc liable to attack by microbes. This leads to breakdown of the
Ir,rlrrtt, odour, discolorationand cloudiness. Water-solublepreservattir", irrc:lo be used and p-hydroxy benzoic acid and its methyl ester,
l'lr,'l\,1rrrcrcuriccompounds,formaldehydemay be used.
I r ptr of Preparations
At't:orclingto the nature of the products the shampoo products cdn be
rlrl,',rlit'tlas follow. The choice of productsis basedon the need of the
ll6
user.
(l)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
Powdershampoos
Clear liquid shampoos
Liquid creamor lotion shampoos
Solid cream/gelshampoos
Oil shampoos
Miscellaneousincludinganti-dandruffmedicatedshampoos
General Preparations
They are preparedby simpte mixing process. In powder shampoos
the ingredientsare simply mixed and the perfumeis addedlast.
In caseof clear liquid shampoosthe detergents
are first dissolvedin
half of the water with little heat if necessary. other ingredientsare
addedto other part of the water and then mixed with the first part. The
perfume is addedlast.
Other preparationscan be made by simple mixing in a gradual
manner,taking different ingredientsat different stages.
POWDER.SHAMPOOS
FormulaI
Sodium bicarbonate
Disodium phosphate
Soap powder
Perfume
50.0 gm
200 gm
30.0gm
q.s.
Mix all the ingredients together and add perfume finally.

Formula2
Henna powder
Borax
Sodium carbonate
Potassium carbonate
Soap powder
Perfume
Formula3
Powdered cammomile flowers
Borax
, Sodium carbonate
Soap powder
Perfume
5.0 gm
15.0gm
25.0 gm
5.0 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
20.0 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
I.h I
IIÎR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
II7
Mix all the ingredientstogetherand add perfume finally to mixed

rrrnqrund trituratefurther.
CLEAR LIQUID SHAMPOOS
Formula4
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate
Coconut monoethanolamide
Water
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
45.0 gm
2.0 gm
53.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Formula5
Triethanolamine
lauryl sulphate
Lauric isopropanolauride
Water
Perfume
Preservative
60.0 gm
2.0 gm
38.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
Formula6
Sodiumsalt of sulphated
lauryl alcohol ether
Water
Perfume
Preservative
40.0 gm
60.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
I'hc above three preparationscan be made by simple solution. Perfirrrreshould be added last. Preservativeshould be dissolved in water.
LIQUID CREAM SHAMPOOS
Strch shampoos are expected to be mild and emollient in action.
Norr-ionic stearateslike propylene glycol stearate,polyethylene glycol
4tX) distearate together with insoluble metallic stearatesare used for
opncification.
Formula7
Sodium amyl sulphate 30o/o
PEG 400 distearate
Magnesium stearate
Water
Ninol AB2l (thickening agent)
Oleyl alcohol (conditioning agent)
Perfume
25.0
5.0
2.0
68.0
q.s.
q.s.
q.s
gm
gm
gm
gm
118
ForrnulaE
Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate
(27o/oactive)
Ethylene glycol monostearate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
40.0 gm
5.0 gm
55.0gm
q.s.
q.s
Sodium lauryl sulphate paste

Oleic acid
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
i
Colour
47.0 gm
20.0 gm
10.5gm
22.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mix water, oleic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate paste and heat to
fitt"(' Slowly add triethanolamine with continuous stirring. Add perf i rrrrc:rl i cr cooi ngto 35oC.
Fo r m u l a 1 2
27.50gm
1.00gm
3.00gm
0.25gm
68.25gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Add whole egg powder or dried egg yolk with small quantity of
water to make a paste. Dilute it with some amount of detergent. Mix
other ingredients with water separately. Add the first mixture to it with
stirring. Add perfume.
SOLID CREAM/GEL SHAMPOOS
These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable
gelling agent such as sodium stearate. Since they have to be stored
in
collapsible tubes orjars, they should have thick consistency.
For m ula l0
Sodium lauryl sulphate

Coconut monsethanolamide
Propylene glycol monoste&rate
Stearic acid
Sodium hydroxide
Water
Perfume
119
I{AIR CLEANSING PREPARATIONS
Formula l l
Heat and mix the ethylene glycol monostearatewith a smalr quantity

of the detergent to form a homogeneous mixture. Add more detergent
slowly and then water, mixing thoroughly before addition of next.
Perfume is added last after coolins to 35oC.
Formula9
Fatty alcohol sulphate
Lauric isopropanolamide
Egg powder
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
Th I
20.00gm
1.00gm
2.00 gm
5.00 gm
0.75 gm
71.25gm
q.s.
15.0gm
Miranol
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (40%) 25.0 gm
l0.Q gm
Coconut diethanolamide
1.0 gm
(Methyl
cellulose)
Methocel
gm
49.0
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Colour
Nlrx rniranol, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate and coconut diethanollllrrh. with heat. Add methocel and colour with water to make a viscous
Mix this with the previousmixture with continuousstirring.
1re'pirr:rlion.
A'Ll pt'rlumeafter cooling to 35oC.
OIL SHAMPOOS
t)rl shampoos basically consist of detergents made of sulphonated
ltlq l'hcy have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the
lrrrrrlrrrl,lheydo not form foam. Sulphonatedvegetableoils are made by
lrF,rtrrlt vegetableoils with sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents,
rrtrrlirtr:good detergents.
Formula 13
Sulphonatedolive oil
Sulphonatedcastor oil
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
16.0gm
16.0gm
68.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mrx all the ingredients together. Colour and preservativesshould be

,ltas,rlvcdin a small quantity of water. Perfume can be added last.
120
IhI
MISCELLANEOUSSHAMFOOS
These are encompassingshampooscontaining ingredientsincorporatedto achievespecificfunction along with cleansingaction. Shampoos
can contain anti-dandruff agents,other medicinal agentslike vitamins,
amino acids, protein hydrolysate,plant extract,antibapterialagents,etc.
and are expectedto give additional effectsapart from cleansingaction.
I2I
lhlr to rest of the detergentmix with continuousstirring. Cool to 40oC

a*rrlrdd pcrfume. Addition of perfumeis optional.
Formula17
Thymol
Menthol
Camphor
Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate
Water
Perfume
ANTISEPTIC/ANTI-DANDRUFFSHAMPOOS
Formula14
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste)
25.0 gm
Stearicacid
7.0 gm
Sodiumhydroxide
1.0gm
Biosulphurpowder
2.0 gm
Water
65.0 gm
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in a small quality of water with
heating at 75"C. Add biosulphurto the sodium hydroxide solution.
Take sodium lauryl sulphate and stearic acid together and mix with
heatingat about 60oC and then add to the aqueoussolution. Stir and
cool and add perfumeand preservative.
Formula15
Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate
Lauric monoethanolarnide
Hexachlorophane
Water
Perfume
Colour
Prepareby simplemixing process.
IIÎR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS
0.05 gm
0.10gm
0.10gm
50.00 gm
49.75gm
q.s
Mlx lhymol,mentholand camphortogether.Add perfumeand mix a

errrnllnrnountof detergentwith stirring. Continue the addition of
with gentlestirring. Add waterto volume.
delergerrl
tvrlsnllon of Shampoos
\hnrnpoos,beforereleasingto the market,must be testedfor their
aafetyorr application,to the skin and eyes. Generaltestsfor identificat|rmol irrgredients
and quantityof eachingredientshouldbe carriedout
hy properchemicalanalysis. Someotherspecifictestsare done.
( | ) Vnrious physical propertiesand performancecharacteristics
bc studied. Theseare foam formationand foam stability,rheolahrrrrhl
rrgy,ol lhc products,natureof foam,effect of the shampooon the hair
attrllt,, c:haracters
etc.
14.0gm
1.5gm
0.5 gm
84.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
l'erlirnnanceand characterof the foam can be studiedby stirring the

hrnnrrrru speciallydesigneddevice,and by addingselectedsoil suchas
larmlirr.rnineraloil, vegetableoil or dirt to foam and studyingtheir
FflFrI
l'llect on the hair can be studied by half-head technique, where half
ll lhe lruir' is shampooed,the other half is used as control, and comparIrrg the two parts by observation and by combing and other process.
Formula16
Seleniumdisulphide
2.5 gm
Bentonite
5.0 gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste)
40.0 gm
Water
52.5 gm
Perfume
q.s.
First disperseseleniumdisulphideevenlyin bentonite. Mix sodium
lauryl sulphatewith water with heating and stirring to a ternperatureof
about90oC. Add part of this detergentmirr.to the seleniumdisulphidebentonite dispersionwith stirring to get a homogeneousmixture. Add
l)l l,.lfect on skin and eyes:This can be done by applying it on

antrrrols. lrritation on skin can be studied by applying it on skin and
nhrrrving the effectson skin.
I h ',
l t^l l t 'I'ON IC S
123
{ l } ( )ptionally it can also contain conditioners.

('') SlroLrldnot damagescalp or hair.
CHAPTER-9
Hair Tonics
Flair tonics, whether their therapeutic action is real or not, occupy a large
market today. They claim action against a variety of disorders such as
dandruff alopecia or baldness, seborrhoea and the like. Dandruff can be
controlled by using a0.25%osolution of a cationic surfactant or selenium
sulphide or other selectedsubstancesdissolved in water. Seborrhoeacan
be lessened by removing oily secretions by rubbing hair daily with an
alcoholic lotion. Baldness,according to science,cannot be cured by any
extemal application on the head. But massaging on the scalp can
enhance the blood supply to the scalp and the hair growth. But several
tonics claim to grow hair on bald heads. People have suspicion aboul
these products but still demands are there.
Loss of hair is a natural phenomena of the cyclic activity of the hair
follicle.
Germinal matrix becomes inactive during the resting phase
appearing after the growing phase. Eventually hair becomes detached
and moves up the follicle and falls out. This normal loss, if little higher,
makes the people use hair tonics or hair lotions. When this loss is not
replaced by new hair, baldnessstarts. Baldness can occur due to any of
the three reasons hereditary, presence or increase of male sex hormone,
and disease of the scalp. Some dubious products are marketed to cure
baldness.
Another new type of products have got the attention of the people.
They are termed as hair conditioners mainly used by women, to repair
the damage done to the hair by excessive use of other hair treatment
preparationsor shampoos.
An ideal hair tonic should have the following ingredients:
(1) A counter irritant to improve supply of blood to the dermal
papillae.
(2) Vitamins and sulphur-containing amino acids for biosynthesisof

keratin.
(3) Antiseptics for control of dandruff and seborrhoea.

t22
ll';rir t.rrics have been made for dry scalps or

for oily scalps.Those
Itrr ,rrl\' :;crrllrs
are designedto correctthe oily condition urrau." alkaline.
I t'r rlr\' sr:alps11.t.preparations contain substances
to supplement oily
r l rrti t(t(.1,
ol ' the scalp.
i !* l rr i rrl s
\"rr irrrs .aw materialshave been suggested
and are being used in hair
r'!rfrlrt\ s.r'e of these.ingredientshelp to
maintain the scarp in good
' rrrrlrla()..Sorneother ingredientsare usedto enhancethe applaranceof
tl tE l ri l i t
lr.epr in case of oily preparationsas tonic,

normal vehicle fbr the
Irrrlr |rrrit':; is industrial methyrated spirit
diluted with water. Arcohol
' 'rlr lrt' rr:rctfin concentrationrange from l0-g5%oas required. It acts as a
='rl'rrrr l.r' removar of a fatty acid-protein
comprex from the hair.
{lr'.lrrrl is not recommendedin high concentration
as it can cause
l rrehl rhrrvrr
of the pro t ein.
fr,r1r11r1,yl
alcohol can replacealcohol as vehicle but it has
a strong
.rl'ur.
Glycerine in 2-5oh is also incorporatedto get emollient
Srrrrrgr'rrl
ard lrrlrriclting effects. It also helps as cosolvent.
terr'rrrl rubefacient drugs are recommended
to in,:orporate in hair
r'rtl.i l. stirnulate hair growth. vasodilators
are also incorporated
*'|ur'|l..''s. But the massagingdone to apply such
tonics also helps in
-ellilllll;llillllhair growth as it increasestemperatureand localizedcirculas.rrc: of the active constituentsused are
llrr
cantharides,pilocarpine,
rilrlrrrrrt":rrrl'onia, rosemaryoil, acetic acid,
capsicum,resorcinol,sali, r ll, ir, itl. sulphur,cholesterol,mercuric chloride.
t lr,lc"rcrol has been reported to have
an effect on the activity of the
6,v115
glands and hair formation. As it is water-insoluble
'e1161
and has
e'r're '..lrrbility in alcohol, cholesterolcan easily
be dissolvedin alcohol
r'l lriplr .'rrcentration. However, if alcohor
concentrationis low, a
=,lr1lr1l;71"t'
agent like cetomacrogol,emulsifying wax, needs
tc be
rrrt'|rr"rrirrc(|. PolyoxyetLlyrenecondensation product
of woor wax
(;ur al so be u sedas solubilizer s.
tl r 111' ,t;.
t
'r"r.r .il, lanorin condensation proclucts or wool wax alcohol
|
'rrr,h-r',irri'^ products are used as oily rnaterial for hair dressing.
I rrlrr'r irrrportant substancesused in
h;rir tonics are vitr;rmin F,
'[ir!r"r Ir' pantothe'ic acid, biotin (viiarnin H), pr*tein hydrorysation
1.,:rrrrlnucl ei ca cids"
f' rr' ,l rrr
A HANDBoOKoF cosMll l r(
124
The idea of using these substancesis that either growth or struclrrr,

and rigidity of the hair will benefit by using them on scalp antl ril
contact with keratogenouszone or the tissue surrounding the hair palrrll '
or germinal matrix. Vitamin F is the mixture of unsaturatedfatty at r,t
including linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids and they helP "'
treatment of skin irregularities and in hair preparations. For prolrr"
hydrolysate proteins of leather, skin, gelatin, hair are treated with acrrl
alkalis or enzymes and the products are used.
Several anti-dandruff materials like sulphur, cationic surfaclarrt"
selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphides are also used in hair tonics,'r
lotions.
(1) Resorcinol : Resorcinol and its monoacetate have powcr lrrl
antiseptic properties and are therefore used in anti-dandruffpreparatiorr:
They are less toxic than phenols. Large dosesof resorcinol are howcv, '
toxic, due to the formation of methaemoglobin. It is absorbedthrotrl'1,
skin, especially injured surfaces. Due to these reasons,it is not mtttlr
used in tonics.
(2) Beta naphthol (beta hydroxynaphthalene) : It is a powerlrrl
antiseptic, slightly soluble in water (0.1%). Boric acid increasesit'
solubility.
(3) Natural extracts quinine: Being a poison to all forms of livirrl'
maiter, it helps in keeping the scalp sterile and stimulates it by frictit'rr
(4) Capsicum : Capsicum consists of the dried ripe fruits of caps'
cum and contains a crystalline colourless pungent substance callt',|
capsaicin" Its tincture is used in tonics'
(5) Cantharides : Dried "cantharis vesicatoria" contains a cryslrl
line lactone cantharidin. It is used for its irritating, stimulant propertit'"
on the scalp.
(6) Vitamins and unsaturated acids are also used in conjugati""
for their hair growing properties.
125
l tA Il { I"ON IC S
Formula2
2.0 gm
50.0gm
48.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
Betanaphthol
Alcohol (90%)
Water
Glycerine
Perfume
Formula3
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
3.0 gm
0.3 gm
4.0 gm
7.0 gm
83.35gm
0.25 gm
Borax
Quinine arsenite
Glycerine
Formaldehyde
Alcohol
Chloroform
Water
Perfume
Formula4
Chlorothyrnol
Tincture of capsicum
Quinine arsenite
Benzoic acid
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
0.1 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
0.3 gm
40.0 gm
56.3gm
0.2 gm
F'ormula5
Pilocarpine nitrate
Quinine hydrochloride
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.05 gm
2.00 gm
5.00gm
5.00 gm
89.75gm
q.s
q.s.
llrt: prcparationcan be made by simple solution technique.
Preparations
F o rm u l aI
Fclwler's solution
Sulphonated castor oil
Resorcinolmotloacetate
Perfume
Alcohol
r h',
16.00gm
10.00gm
1.50gm
0.25 gm
72.25gm
Fo r m u l a 6
Cholesterol
AlcoholI
Cetomacrogol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.5 gm
25.0 gm
1.0 gm
73.5 grn
q.s.
q.s.
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
126
F o rm u l a7
Calcium pantothenate
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfurne
Preservative
Lactic acid (to adjust pH 5.0-6.0)
0.5 gm
3.0 gm
27.5 gm
69.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
F o rm u l a8
Protein hydrolysate
Glycerine
Calcium pantothenate
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Lactic acid (to ad.iustpH 5.0-6.0)
1.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.2 gm
25.0gm
71.7gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s
F o rmu l a9
0.2 gm
0.2 gm
20.0 gm
79.6gm
q.s.
Salicl'lic acid
Resorcinol
Oleyl alcohol
Alcohol
Perfunle
F o rmu l al 0
Salicylic acid
Precipitated sulphur
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
0.2 gm
3.0 gm
0.3 gm
10.0gm
86.5gm
q.s.
q.s.
Conditioners
conditioners are used after shampooing the hair. to render the hair
more lustrous, easy to comb, and fiee tiom static electricity when dry.
The.y are also used to improve dainagedhair. Hair may be damaged by
eNcessive use ()f bleaches and permanent waves. Condit"oners are
usually based on cationic detergentsand fatty materials like lanolin nr
inineral oil
I l r r) IIA IR TON IC S
For m ula11
Stearyl alcohol
Sodium chloride
Benzalkoniumchloride
Water
Colour
Perfume
127
0.6 gm
4.2 gm
0.2 gm
1.5 gm
97.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula12
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 5.0 gm
2.0 gm
Cetyl alcohol
3.0 gm
Water
90.0 gm
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
llair oil : This is widely usedby the peoplefor nourishmentand care
nl h;rir'. Variety of hair oils are available in the market. Some are pure
rrrl likc coconut oil etc. Others normally contain some important ingrerl rt' rrl tl
s i ssol vedi n oil.
l ' :r' nl unti on
As in any other cosmetic products, these products should also be
.r'irlrrrtcd for the contents estimation and their identification. Also some
ltlrcr tcstsare requiredto be done accordingto purpose.
(l) Antisepticproperty: This can be done by in vitro antimicrobiohrp,rt'lrl
testsagainstsome specific organismsusing liquid or solid medium.
()) Stability lesl : Stability of the products and of the ingredients
rnrr',lbc studied particularly effects of heat, light etc. It is well known
llrirl nrost of the phenolic materialswill discolour on exposureto light
'ur(l llrus may make fair hair dark, particularly in the presenceof traces
,rf ;rlkirli or soap. For stability study acceleratedstability study may be
rl nI tt'.
( l) Sesitivity /esl : Some of the ingredients, like antiseptics, may

t lrrsc irritation, sensitizationor photosensitizationof the skin. So, these
qlrorrklbe tested and can be done by patch test, either open or occlusive.
I F III
r29
IIA II{ C OLOR A NTS
( l) Permanent colorants
(4) Lighteners or bleaches
CIIAPTRER-10
Hair Colorants
Hair colorants, or hair dyes as they are popularly known, occupy a latge
market today. They are used either to hide gray hair or to change the
colour of the hair by individuals, either at home or at hairdressing
saloon. Colouring of hairs, eyebrows and eyelashes is not new and
practised from earliest antiquity but in crude form. A naturally occurring colouring agent kohl, containing lead sulphide, was used by Egyptian
women to give a black colour to the hair, eyebrows and eyelashes'
Further, several other plants were also identified and used for colouring
of hair, eyebrows and eyelashes. Henna to obtain auburn tints, lysimachia
for i-mparting blond tint, corisson to dye the hair black, are notable
examples. Extract obtained by boiling ophouys, the eyebrow plant, in
oil was used to impart blackness to the hair. Over the time lot of
changes occurred and presently various types of dyes are available to
impart intended colour and shades.
An ideal hair dye should have the following characteristics:
(1) It should not be toxic to the skin or hair and should not impair
the natural gloss and texture of the hair.
(2) It should not be dermatitic sensitizer.
(l) TEMPORARY
COLORANTS
I lrr':icrlyes or colorants impart colour to the hair for a short time.

f lrel irrc washedoff during the first shampoo. They offer the advantage
llrrrl tlrc rrscr is allowed to experiment. Early examples of temporary
r,lirrirrrlscan be the practiceof rinsing hair with either vinegaror lemon
lrrtrr nllcr shampooingwith soap. These were used before the developnrerrtol'shampoo basedon synthetic detergents. Soap which remains on
the lririr lras a dulling effect and rinse was consideredto give effect as a
rcqult ol neutralizing the alkali. Same effect was obtained when rinsed
nltlr rr solrrtion of citric or tartaric acid. Present-daytemporary colorants
are l'*rscrlon this principle and consist of a mixture of a suitable dyestuff
rrttlr urr ircid either in powdersor in liquid forms.
I'or,y1ls1
products are simple mixture of dyestuff with citric acid or
l!illrilr( lrcid in a sachet or,,capsule. To use, the contents of the package
ta rltt,.olvod in about half a pint of warm water and the solution poured
rpr'irlttlly over the wet hair immediately after shampooing. Absorption
rrl rllestu{l'takes place from the solution on to the hair cuticle but no
grerrt'trirlior.r
to the cortex or medulla. The dye can easily be removedby
rlrirrrrpooirrg.Various shadescan be createdby this processlike blue,
1trrl, light golden or auburn shades.
I lrt'sc preparationsmay also be applied in a transparent polymeric
lrrrlr'tiltl as sprays. They may also be formulated with soaps,shampoos
llnrl \ryirxcsand used as crayons for temporary colouring. pH of the
,.llrrtionpreparationis adjustedat about 5.0.
(3) The colour that it imparts to the hair must be stable to air, light,
water and shampoo.
POWDER
Formula I
(4) Should be easy to apPlY.

The important factors to be considered while selecting a dye are its
molecular size and its pH. The keratin lattice structure of hair does not
permit the penetration of molecules much larger than ethylene glycol.
At high pH, hair may swell and absorption may be enhanced. But it
may cause irreversible damage to hair. Most dyes are small molecules
and thus penetrate hair easilY.
These days hair colorants may be classified into following categories:
(l) Temporary colorants
(2) Semi-permanentcolorants
128
Certifiedcolour
Tartaric acid
5.0 gm
95.0gm
RINSE SOLUTION
Formula2
Acid dyestuff
Alcohol
Acetic acid (30%)
Water
6.0 gm
10.0gm
10.0gm
74.0 gm
A HANDBOOK OF COSME'II( '
130
r h l () IIA IRC OLORANTS
For m ula 3
A krw-water soluble dyestuff, like nitro-amino type, does not produce

,,,rtr,,lirctory
colouring when applied in an ionic surface-activeagent. In
,,rr,lr ir cirse incorporation of 2-5%' of an alkylolamide will increasethe
r-lllt I ol'dyestuff. Basic dyestuff can also colour the hair by absorption
rlllrl wlrcn they are applied in a cation effective vehicle. In several
I rf\(':, :r rnixture of anionic andlor non-ionic surface active agents with a
rrrlronuctive dye is used to get a semi-permanentcolouring by forming
Iililtlnclltion colour complexes.
('olour complexes can be formed by any of the following processes:
6.0 gm
10.0gm
40.0 gm
44.0 gm
Acid dyestuff
Alcohol
Acetic acid
Water
CRAYON
F o rmu l a4
Colour
Stearic acid
Triethanolamine
Beeswax
Paraffin wax
Coconut diethanolamine
Perfume
6.0 gm
14.0gm
7.0 gm
4.0 gm
42.0 gm
9.0 gm
9.0 gm
7.0 gm
q.s.
(rr) Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of basic dyestuff.

1lr) Mixing a cationic surfactant with a solution of a anionic dyestuff.
1r') Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of a dyestuff containing a cationic surface-activeagent.
Norrnally these preparations are applied to dry hair after cleaning
rvillr shampoo and kept for about 30 minutes to allow maximum absorplhrrr ol'colour. The hair is finally rinsed with warm water, or with
if necessary,to remove excess colour. Some illustrative
',lrirrrrpoo,'
llrrrrrrllc are mentionedbelow.
In shampoo type preparations 0.5 to 2.0Yo of the dyestuff can lrc

incorporated depending on the colour effect required.
(2) SEMr-PERMANENT
131
COLORANTS
These colorants give a stronger coloration to the hairs and carr

withstand six to eight subsequentshampoosalthough some of the colotrr
is removed during each shampoo. These are made of dyes havirrl'
smaller molecules which penetrate the hair easily. These are mort'
preferred by the professional hairdresserand the home user as they arc
easy to apply and have less risk of damage to hair and skin in compari
son to permanent dyeing process.
Formula5
ammonium
compound
Quatemary
Anionic surfactant
Lactic acid
Alkylolamide
Dyestuff
Water
These colorants are mainly based on basic dyestuffs of nitro-amirro

dyes. The most important nitro dyes are picramic acid (2,4-dinitro-6
aminophenol) and 4-nitro-1-2-phenylenediamine. These dyes are usuallt
red or yellow. Brown dyes are normally larger in size and do not
penetrateeasily. Therefore, in order to get a brown shade,blue is mixetl
with red and yellow. Anthraquinones, e.g. 1,4-diamino anthraquinonc.
give blue colour and are sufTiciently small in size. To achieve thc
optimum dyeing effect of a particular dyestuff the following factors musl
be considered(a) Water solubility
(b) The composition of the vehicle or base
(c) Effect of pH of the medium
(d) Effects of diluting solvents on the dye and basic composition
12.0 gm
9.6 gm
4.8 gm
12"0 gm
1"2 gm
60.4 gm
l)issolve the dyestuff in a mixture of the alkylolamide and anionic

lrrt'c,abtive
material. Separatelydissolve acid and quaternary ammo'rur
rluru cornpound in the water and add gradually to the colour solution
rvl ri l csti rri ng.
Formula6
12.0 gm
Quaternary ammonium compound
Nonyl phenol ethyleneoxide condensate 9.6 gm
Lactic acid
4.8 gm
Coconut diethanolamine
12.0 gm
Dyestuff
1.2 gm
Water
60.4 em
t*'
I32
A HANDBOOKoF COSMETICS
Dissolve the dye in noryl phenol ethleneoxide condensateand coconut diethanolamine. Dissolve lactic acid and quaternary ammonium
compound separately in water and add this slowly to the dye solution
with stirring.
(3) PERMANENT
COLORANT
Permanent colorants are colouring preparations which are generally

accompaniedby a chemical process. Permanentcolorants can be used to
intensify the natural colour or completely change the hair colour. They
can also be successfully used to give a shade near to the natural colour
of the hair. These are also used to give a dramatic effect. Permanent
colorants are either of vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals. But
most preferred or of commercial importance are the oxidation dyes based
on synthetic organic chemicals.
Oxidation dyes such as p-phenylene diamine, p-tolulenediamine are
used as permanent dyes. They are first converted to quinine-diamine
which is colourless and small in size. These penetratethe hair and form
molecules of increasing size and colour. These polymers are very
difficult to remove and the dyes remain permanent.
These dyes also cause some toxicity to hair and skin. Toxicity of
such dyes is due to the p-phenylenediamine and not due to any intermediates. Patch test should be done on small area of skin before every
application.
Phenols such as resorcinol, pyrogallol may be used to modify the
shades. The main ingredients of a formulation will be of--
133
r ft lil tlAll( ( ()I.ORANTS
ll,-rrrrrrltirs no local or systemictoxicity and shows no sensitization'

r,rl,rilr
is dcpositedin the hair shaft unlike metallic dyes which coat
ltE
fhe lrrrrr',lr:rti. Its main disadvantagesare that it is messy, produces
re,1lt,,lr.,lrirlcs and dyes the finger nails also. Apart from its use as dye,
frcl l rr rn;rvbc trsedi n r inses.
HENNA RINSE
Forrnula 7
grouncl)
(coarsely
llenna leaves
Alcohol
Water
l'erfume
(c) Alkali: Ammonia
45.75gm
0.25 gm
I lrr. lt.:rvcsare boiled in water and then the mixture is allowed to

=t4l,l l{}r lr lbw hours. It is strainedto remove the leaves and alcohol
are adde d.
arr,lgrcrl rrtttc
lrl,lrtiorr of pyrogallol and metallic salts may be used to produce a
rangc rrl t,olours with henna. But this may prove toxic if applied on
l r,,frn ,,ki tt,
LIGHT BROWN
FormulaI
90.0 gm
5.0 gm
5.0 gm
Henna powder
Pyrogallol
Copper sulphate
DARK BROWN
Formula9
(a) Base : Solution, emulsion, gel, powder, shampoo.

(b) Dy": Oxidation base
10.00 gm
44.00 gm
83.0gm
10.0gm
7.0 gm
Henna powder
Pyrogallol
Copper sulphate
(d) Antioxidanls : Ammonium thioglycolate

BLACK
(l) Vegetable Dyes
The most important vegetable dye is 'Henna'. It contains dried
powdered leaves of Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia spinosa and Lawsonia
inemis.
Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone,the main ingredient) is soluble in hot water and in a pH of 5.5 acts as an effective dye. The
powdered henna is made into a paste with hot water, suitably acidified
and applied on the head. It is kept for the required amount of time"
For m ulal0
Hennapowder
Pyrogallol
Coppersulphate
73.0 gm
15.0gm
12.0 gm
CAMOMILE
of Anthemis nobilis and Matricania
flowers
the
of
llris consists
,lr,rlrorrrillae. The active ingredient is 1'3,4-trihydroxyflavone or
aagrr;4t'nirr.
The flower heads are applied in the form of a paste in hot
134
A HANDBOoK
oF cosMur.t(:
water along with kaolin. It may also be used as hair brightening rins.',,
A typical formula isFormula I I
Camomile flowers
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
F o rm u l a1 2
Powdered henna leaves
Powdered camomile flowers
Pyrogallic acid
Citric acid
Alcohol
Glycerine
Water
10.00gm
44.00gm
45.75gm
0.25 gm
18.200gm
5.820gm
0.150gm
0.073gm
2.200 gm
0.730gm
78.827gm
(2) Metallic Hair Dyes

Colours caused by metallic compounds such as lead acetateare either
due to sulphides formed by sulphur in the keratin or due to metallic
oxide formed by reduction. The hair shaft is coated with a dull, metallic
sheen, leaving the hair brittle. The main compounds used for thir;
purpose are lead acetate, bismuth citrate, silver nitrate.
(a) Lead dyes : Lead dyes are generally based on solutions of leacl
acetateand it is considered that the reducing action of keratin forms thc
insoluble lead salts. The coloration processis slow and gives an illusion
of restoring of natural colour. The rate of colouring is dependent on
concentration of lead and influenced by air and light.
Lead acetate is normally used in combination with precipitated sulphur or sodium thiosulphate.
Formula 13
Precipitatedsulphur
Lead acetate
Glycerine
Water
1.3 gm
1.6gm
9.6 gm
87.5 gm
The shadesproduced depend on the concentrationof lead useil" It is

relatively non-toxic.
(b) Bismuth dyes : They also produce a range of colours from
blond to dark chestnut.
't
I h t0 ilAil( Cot_oRANTS
135
Formula 14
A" Bismuth citrate

Water
50.0gm
50.0 gm
lI
6.0 gm
94.0 gm
q.s.
Sodium thiosulphate
Water
Ammonium hydroxide
lr') Silver dyes: The hair is firsttreated with an aqueousammoniar',rl',,rlrrli.rrof silver nitrate. After a short while, a solution of pyrogallol
ta rr;,|'lrt'tl 'fhe proportion of silver may be reducedfor lighter shades.
'{ F,r,','rrislr
black colour is produced"which stainsskin too.
For m ulalS
S ol uti on 1
Silver nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Water
Ammonium hydroxide
S ol uti on2
Pyrogallol
Alcohol
Water
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
To 100.0gm
q.s.
4.0 gm
46.0 gm
50.0gm
\irlts ol'copper,nickel and cobalt may be a,ldedto modifo the colour.

Formula 16
Lead acetate
Sodium thiosulphate
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
0.5 gm
1.5 gm
8.0 gm
10.0grn
80.0gm
q.s.
Formula 17
Lead acetate
Sodium thiosuiphate
Propylene glycol
Water
0.6 gm
1.2 gm
10.0gm
88.2 gm
Formula 18
Precipitatedsulphur
Lead sulphatc
Propylene glyc"oi
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
10.0gm
Alcohol
Water
137
r fl l0 ll^tR COLORANTS
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI( :
136
10.0gm
77.0 gm
rnlrrtiorr. As some substancesof hair are soluble in alkali, treatment

r+rtlrrrlkali for longer time makes the hair soft and gelatinous when wbt
rrrrrlrrrrkcs the combing difficult. To prevent damage to the hair several
rrrrrht'rs suggested addition of additives, like proteins, which can be
rrrr.rlrorirtcdinto the bleachingpreparationsor pretreatedbefore bleachItty
Oxidation Hair Colorants

These are the most important group of permanent dyes but slowlr
have been replaced by semi-permanentdyes. The oxidation dyes ar,
based on synthetic organic chemicals like paraphenylenediamineatrtl
paratolulenediamine. The principle of dyeing is to add necessaryoxiclr
tion end product, an azine dye, which reacts with keratin to forrrl
insoluble azine derivatives and consequently gives a permanent cololl
tion. To improve the stability of the dye to the effect of light and werl
and to obtain certain specific colours some other materials are used lr,
modifiers along with the main dyestuff. They are resorcinol, pyrocat('
chol, chlorohydroquinone, pyrogallic acid, diamino-anisidine, etc.
Mrl cri l l s
llrotrgh permanganatesolution is recommended for bleaching pur1,,,'.('l)ul application of it can cause serious damage to the hair if any
rrrr'.trrkc
is made in application. Alkaline hydrogenperoxide solution is
fn"rc l)rcl'crred. For domestic use 3-4Yoperoxide solution is suggested
lrut lol professional application 5-60losolution can be used for faster
lrlt'rrr'lring"Further higher concentrationscan damage the hair. Norlrrrllv suitable stabilizing agents, such as acetanilide, diluted acids,
rilililil)ilir.trIbisulphate are incorporated in hydrogen peroxide solution to
'itrrlrrlizcit. As presenceof various metals causesdamage to the hair,
r.rlrc$lcring agent EDTA may also be added to the preparation. Choleslrrol. lurrolin derivatives, fatty alcohols or other hair conditioning
sulr.,tlrrrccs
are incorporatedin the hydrogenperoxide solution to have a
hetterappearanceofthe hair.
(4) LTGHTENERS OR BLEACHES

Lightenersor bleachesare also discussedhere as they alter the colorrr
of the hair. These preparations can also be termed as decolourinl'
preparations becausethey lighten or remove the natural colour.
The colour of the hair is due to the melanin which is produced in tlrc
living cells of matrix of the follicle and then distributed in the del,l
keratinized cortex and cuticle. So, the bleaching processis modification
or lightening by destruction of the melanin by some chemical reactions
llclirre application, ammonia is added for faster degradation of per,rrr,lc irnd better bleaching effect. This also softens the hair. As
lrl,'rrr'lrr:d
hair never regains colour, so in subsequentbleaching only
frr'.,lrlygrown hair is requiredto be bleached.
Though metallic and oxidation dyes or camomile extract may lightcrr

dark hair, but strong bleaching effect is not possible by using thcst'
substances. This can be done by treating with oxidizing agents likc
alkaline hydrogen peroxide, permanganatesolutions etc. After bleachinli
normally the hair is rinsed with blue solution to give it a better appeal
ance.
I lrc: products are marketed in powder, paste, and solution forms.

|orvtlcl preparationscontain inert materials such as kaolin, magnesium
r irrlrorralcmixed with peroxide and ammonia to achieve better control in
tlrr',rpplicationto the hair. Also there are substanceswhich when mixed
I'r,'vitlc arnmoniaand active oxygen. Mixture of magnesiumperoxide
runrlsoclium perborate is such an example. Sodium perborate, sodium
|','rrrxidcwhen mixed with water producealkaline hydrogenperoxide.
The bleaching effect is produced by the oxidation effect of tlr,'

oxygen releasedby the action of alkali on the oxidizing agent hydrogcrr
peroxide. During this oxidation sulphur linkages of the hair get darn
aged. Extent of damage is dependenton the time of exposure of the hair
to t he bleac hinga g e n t.
Formula 19
Ammonium bicarbonate
Ammonium bisulphate
Light magnesium carbonate
Lisht calcinm carbonate
As temporary colouring of hair is also in demand, this is donc

pref,erablyafter bleaching the hair and making the colour light, so thrrl
any shadesof colour can be imparted easily. Dyes. particularly lightur
shade, can be applied better on bleached hair than darker hair. Cat','
should be taken not to damase the hair shaft while treatine with alkll,
20.0 gm
10.0gm
50.0gm
20.0 grn
llris powder mixture is to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide solution

l rr' l orcuse.
*l
138
A T]ANDBOOKOF COSMETICSJ
Formula20
Ammonium persulphate
Ammonlum bisulphate
Sodium perborate monohydrate
Calcium carbonate (light)
Magnesium silicate
I h lll
Formula24
Hydrogen peroxide solution
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride
Water
pH to be adjusted to
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.5 gm
54.5gm
1.0 gm
19.0gm
5.5
It* l r' l )yc R emovers

llr'rrglr permanenthair dye is applied to have a stablecorour which
*tll lrc dilt'icult to remove, but sometimes users may want really to
rFrirrvuil lbr various reasonsor to have a lighter shade. one method of
rlr'\'ul c:anbe using hot vegetableoil. First vegetableoil is applied to
],rr n lllL.hair properly. Then the strandsof hair are passedthrough a
Ir*rrt,'rlir.n marcel or comb and then rubbed with towel. vegetable
Frtrrrrt tlycs and lead dyes can be easily rernoved by this technique.
trtlrer .rll<lur and copper colour are very difficuit to remove
by this
nrellrrrl. Oxidation dyes cannot be removedby this.
Liquids and Paste Bleaches

Normally these preparations are marketed in two containers one
containing stabilized hydrogen peroxide solution and the other the activator. Before trse they are mixed in one part of activator and 4 parts of
hydrogen peroxide solution and applied.
l'rkcy red oil can be used to remove dyes and is also advantageous
ea !ililrl'other additivescan also be incorporatedto help in removal of
45.4gm
18.3gm
22.7 gm
13.6gm
.,'q.s.
r ul l l l l
t lrcrrical reagentscan also be used as artificial dyes. Metalric dyes

rr rrrrllcrrrovedby chemical relgents as it may causea violent produclhrrr.l lrcat which may damagehair and scalp. oxidation dyes can be
rrrrr,vt'tl hy treating rvith reducing agents such as sodium hydrosulphite,
= ' ,,l rrrr l i rrmal dehyde sulphoxylat e, sodium t hiosulphat e, sodiunr
rlllhr'rrrrlcsolutions. These are used at 5oloconcentration. Flydrogen
rrrrrrrrrlcsolutionsin 5-6vo strengthcan be useful for lighter shadesof
rrrirlllr.rr dyes but not for dark shades. Most of these substancesare
r 'E,l ur ;rcidicsolution but sodium forrnaldehydesulphoxylateis used as
,r' -rrL
l ! rrrrrrnoni acsolut
al
ion.
llrc lirllowing formula is a representativepreparationand can be
rr-' ,,ll o l cnrovesi l ve r colour s.
Sodiurn thiosulphate
5.0 grn
Sulphuricaciri
2.0 gn^,
Water
93.0 gm
Formula22(ii)
In hydrogen peroxide solution for preparation (i) dissolve the perfume in alcohol and add oleic acid. N{ix thoroughly. Add ammonium
hydroxide solution slowly with continuous stirring. Finally add triethanolamine.
l'ormula 23
2.CIgm
A. Carbopol 9-lzl
Hydrogen peroxide solution (acid stabilized) 88.0 grn
B. Triethanolsamine solution (109/oin rvater)
80.0 gm
l)r,isolvethe secondcomponentin water. Then add hydrogenperoxIrl erol rrti orrsl ow l y. Adjust pH t o 5. 5.
The preparations are prepared by rnixing all the ingredients except

oxidizing agent, sodium perborate monohydrate, which is mixed slowly
with base afterward. The products are to be mixed rvith water before
use.
Formula22(i)
Oleic acid
Alcohol
Ammonium hydroxide solution
Triethanolamine
Perfume
139
l)r:rPcrscthe carbopol in the peroxide with vigorous stirring. Allow

trr 51,,''.1lirr 20 minutes. Then add solution of triethanol amine and
arl l rri l1rlI to 5.5.
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
2.5 gm
20.0 gm
51.5gm
Formula2tr
persulphate
Ammonium
Sodium percarbonate
Sodium perborate monohydrate
Magnesium carbonate (light)
l l ^l l { C OLOR A N TS
10.0 grn
E-*
140
A HANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S
Evaluation
of skin or can producetoxit
As hair colorantscan causesensitization
effects, it is imperativeto do testsfor this apart from normal quality test
for ingredientsand their quantity.
(l) Sensitizationtest : This can be done on the animal skin by
applyingdyestuffor the preparationand observingthe effecton the skin.
studycan be doneof the relatedtissuesor
histopathological
lf necessary,
cells when applied.
to evaluatethc
(2) Long-term toxic effect : This is also necessary
long-termeffect. This can also be doneon animal.
CHAPTER-11
Hair GroomingAids
llnir is an important componentof overall appearanceof a person
rvlrcthcra man or woman. Howeverclean or well-dressedthe person
nrrry be, untidy hair will give a messyoverall impression. So, hair
groorningaids are importantgroup of cosmeticsand are usedby both
rrrcrrand women to keep the hair in order for good looking and also to
t rrlrunce
overallappearance.Settingor controlof hair is moreimportant
l() lrany men than the glossyhair. Men'sproductsare mainly basedon
rrrt: of oils, fatty materialsor resins. Women'semphasisis on both
rcrprirements.
Variousproductsare marketedas hair grooming aids. They include
lrrilliantines,hair oils, hair creams,hair dressings,hair lacquersor
iprlys. hair lotions. Their compositions
vary but basicallythey are used
krr settingof hair and improvethe appearance.They can be all called as
preparations.
rler:rlrative
Somehair grooming aids are very similar to emollient preparations
nnd producenatural appearanceand gloss by compensatingthe loss of
wnlcr and fat in the hair shaft. Other preparationsadditionally contain
lix"'r,biologicalsubstances
that affectthe hair papillae,antisepticagents.
I'rcparations
suchas settinglotionssoftenthe hair and fix it in position
rrs il is dressed. Many of the commercialproductshave multiple
lrrrtr:tions.
Various hpir grooming aids which are discussedin this chapterare
r,ntegorized
accordingto their compositions.
(l) Brilliantinesand hair oil
(2) Hair setting lotions
(3) Hair creams
(4) Hair lacquersor sprays
l4l
142
t h ||
l l ^l l tC ;R OOMI N GA ID S
143
(1) BRILLIANTINES AND HAIR OILS
Formula 2
Carnauba wax
Wheat germ oil
Petroleumjelly
Paraffin wax
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
These products are mainly based on wax and oils. Depending on thc
consistency they may be classified into the following products(a) Hard : Stick brilliantine
(b) Soft : Brilliantine
(c) Liquid: Hair oils, liquid brilliantine
These preparationscompletely adhere to the hair surface and hold the
hair in position and make them lustrous. The oily or waxy matenals,
which are used, make the hairs tacky and surroundings of one hair
adhere with that of other hairs and keep the hair down by increased
weight of adhering materials. They can also act by covering the hair by
thin layer and thus neutralizing the electrostatic charges generated on
hair by shampooing and/or combing which makes a repulsion among
hairs and makes them look ruffled. More viscous the preparation, the
fixative effect will be more. However, too tacky preparationswill also
attract dirt and dust. Thus the preparationsshould be just tacky enough
to hold the hairs.
Substanceswhich are used to get tackinessare petrolatum,beesw.ar,
animal fats, castor oil, coconut oil, high viscosity rnineraloils. Incclrporation of paraffin waxes, spermaceti,low-viscosity mineral oils, isopropyi
myristate lowers the tackiness.
Originally preparationscontaining mineral oils and wuxes were termed
brilliantine and those with animal and vegetable fats were called as
pomeds. This differentiation is no more used presently.
Application of the oily material should be in thin layer and of even
nature to get the glossiness. Suitable oil soluble perfume should be
added. Preservativesand antioxidants are also required to incorporate,
particularly in preparationscontaining vegetable nr animal oils. Colour
can also be added optionally.
SOLID BRILLIANTINE
5.0 gm
20.0 gm
70.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l\4clt lhe waxes at about 70oC and add oil and jelly. Mix thoroughly.
Arl,l cokrur, perfume and preservativeafter cooling.
BRILLIANTINE
Formula 3
Isopropyl myristate
Lanolin
Mineral oil
Sunflower oil
Perfume
Colour
Antioxidant
Preservative
24.0 gm
1.0 gm
55.0gm
20.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Ir4clt all oils and waxes together at 70oC and mix well.
lrrnrc,colour, preservative,antioxidant after cooling.
1rr.r
Add
IIAIR OILS
Formula4
Mineral oil
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
Preservative
85.0gm
15.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
'I'irke isopropyl myristate

and mineral oil together and mix perfume.
Arltl preservativeand f,rlter.
F'ormula I
Petroleumjelly
Paraffin wax
Perfume
Preservative
90.0 gm
10.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Melt the wax. Add ielly and mix it at about 70"C. Add perfume and
preseruativeafter cooling.
Fo r m u l a .5
Mineral oil
Acetoglyceride
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
Preservative
75.0gm
10.0gm
15.0gm
q.s.
q.s.
Mix all the ingredients together. Add perfumeand preservative
and
l i l tcr.
t lr ll
145
AIDS
tlAlR GROOMING
A IIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t44
Fulycthylene glycol or its monofatty acid estersare also incorporated to

lrrrpnd lustre and hold the hair in place.
SPIRIT BRILI,IANTINE
F o rmu l a6
Isopropylmyristate
Cetyl alcohol
Toilet spirit
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
20.0 gm
2.0 gm
78.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Mix isopropylmyristate,cetyl alcoholand toilet spirit together. Add

perfume,colour and preservative.
(2) HAIR SETTING LOTIONS
For a long time hair settinglotionsare in usp. Theseproductscan be
gum based,resin basedor can be purely alcoholbasedlotions.
Gum mucilage-basedlotions partly have been replacedby resin
lotions. Theseproducts,after application,dry to form invisiblecontinuous elastic film that keepsthe hair firmly positioned. They do not
contain,normally,hair conditioners,nor do they impart gloss,but they
are excellentfixers of hairs.
Productsof early stagesmainly containedgum mucilage,alcoholand
alkali. The alkali renderedthe hair shaftsoft to help in setting. Alcohol
is used to help in quick drying. There are several gums in use'
Tragacanth,karaya,alginate,pectin are most popularones. Acacia is
comparativelylesspopular.
Presentlysyntheticpolymersor resinsare also used and polyvinyl
pyrrolidone,polyvinyl alcohol, polyethyleneglycols, dimethyl hydanresinare good as hair fixers. Castoroil and mineral
toin-formaldehyde,
oils are incorporatedas plasticizersto makethe film elastic. Also watersolubleor water-dispersiblelanolin derivativesare usefulfor this purpose.
Humectants,like gtycerol,sorbitol,help the film not to becometoo dry
and brittle. The productsare norrnally colouredand perfumedand also
need preservativesas mucilageor resinsare favourablefor microbial
growth.
and basicallyalcoholicsoluSomeproductsare purely alcohol-based
tion of perfume oil and can be coloured. But they are not very good to
hold or fix the hair. Sometimessomeother additivesare incorporatedin
thesepreparations. They are tincture ofcapsicum and tincture ofarnica
to enhance stimulating effect and antiseptic substanceslike
o-phenylphenol,quatemaryammoniumcompoundsetc.
hexachlorophene,
HATR SETTING LOTIONS

Formula7
1.2 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
83.8gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
Tragacanth
Alcohol
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
Colour
Preservative
l)issolve preservative in glycerine. Mix tragacanth in the glycerine

rrrrrltlrcrr add water. Add glycerine and mix it properly. Add colour and
perlirrrrc.
Formula8
Tragacanth
Glycerine
Watersolublelanolin
Cholesterol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Colour
1.5 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.1 gm
91.4 gm
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
l)issolve the preservative in glycerine. Add cholesterol and tragar ililltt to prepare a smooth paste. Mix water, water-soluble lanolin and
with
lrrrlrrrnc separately. Add this mixture to the tragacanth mixture
vigorousstining.
Formula9
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone
Carboxy vinyl polymer
Triethanolamine
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
2.00 gm
0.60 gm
0.75 gm
10.00gm
86.65gm
q.s.
q.s.
l)issolve polyvinyl pynolidone and preservativein alcohol' Disperse

tlre polyrner in triethanolamine and then add water gradually with stirrlrrg. Add the alcohol solution and perfume, mix properly.
146
( lr ll
Formula10
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone: Vinyl acetate
copolymer(60:40) 1.00gm
Isopropylmyristate
0.15 gm
Alcohol
70.00gm
Water
29.35gm
Perfume
q.s.
Dissolvethe copolymerin the alcoholwith stining. Add the isopropyl myristate and perfume. Then slowly add the water with constanl
stirring.
Perfume
q.s.
q.s
Normally 0.14% concentrationof calcium hydroxide can be used.

llrwcver, when higher concentrationis requiredthe solubility of calcium
lryrlroxide can be increased by incorporating saccharine and forming
rirltium saccharate. Beeswax-boraxcombinationcan also be used for
rrrnkirrgthese creams. These creams can be stabilized by incorporating
rirrc stearate. Viscosity can be increasedby incorporating cetyl alcohol.
Dissolve the resin in alcohol with stirring. Add the isopropyl alcohol
and diethyl phthalate. Add the perfume. Then add glycerine and water
with stirring.
Oil-in-water type creams are less greasy and when applied make the
lrair wctty as water is continuous phase. When water gets evapoqatedthe
t'il cornes in contact with hair. They can be easily diluted with water
rn(l can be well distributed on hair by wet comb. These preparationscan
I'r'trradewith very less amount of oil. Stearic acid and beeswaxare used
nr erttulsi$ing agent. But these creams make the hair dull as water is
rol1lil1uestphase and oil is a dispersedphase. But fixative property is
good. These creams also contain humectant to prevent fast drying of
wrrlcr. Glossy effect appears only after evaporation of water. Oil-inrvnlcr creams can also be made by triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl
rrrorrostearate,
etc. In all these creams perfumes, colours and preservaItvcs are also incorporated.
Formula 12
Isopropylpalmitate
Tween20
O-phenylphenol
Alcohol (95%)
Water
Perfume
Colour
147
lrrrir. Appearanceof hair is better than in case of brilliantine. These

( rriuns are preparedby using calcium salts of fatty acids which produces
rv/o type emulsion. Also non-ionic surfactantslike spans can also be
rnr:d to make w/o type creams. Other emulsifuing agents can be used
wool alcohols, lanolin derivatives. These preparationsare not much
'rre
slublc. They can get separatedeasily, particularly with increasedtempcrillure. But stability of creamsmade by using non-ionic surfactantsis
lrcltcr. As, normally, the oil content is high in these creams they soil
r |rllrcs and are greasy in use. But when some specific non-ionic
srrrlirctants are used the washing may become easier as washing with
wnlcr converts the cream from ilo to o/w and is easily removed. The
:lrrbility of the productsis influencedby(a) Specific gravity of oil
(b) Proportion of oil and water
(c) Method of manufacturing
F o rmu l a1 l
Dimethyl hydantoin-formaldehyderesin 2.0 gm
Alcohol
70.0 gm
Isopropyl alcohol
5.0 gm
Diethyl phthalate
1.0 gm
Glycerine
0.5 gm
Water
21.5 sm
Dye
llAlR GROOMING
AIDS
6.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
49.9 gm
41.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
(3) HArR CREAMS

Hair creams can be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water type. Water-inoil type creams have more holding capacity than the latter and provide
better gloss to the hair.
WATER-IN-OIL TYPE CREAMS

Formula 13
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Paraflin wax
Lime water (fresh)
Water-in-oil type creams impart nearly similar effect as anhydrous

products like brilliantine. Presenceof ilo emulsifoing agents helps in
stabilizing emulsion as well as proper distribution of oil phase to the
t _.f.
3.5 gm
37.5 gm
1.0 gm
58.0 gm
148
A H,ANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
q.s.
q.s.
Perfume
Preservative
Melt beeswax,mineral oil and paraffin wax together, but adding

graduallyin increasingmelting point, at about 70"C. Warm the lime
water and add slowly to the oil phasewith continuousstirring. Cool
while stirring and add perfumewhen temperatureis about 35oC.
Formula14
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Petroleumjelly
Zinc stearate
Lime water (fresh)
Perfume
Preservative
4.0 gm
37.5 gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
51.5gm
q.s.
q.s
4.0 gm
32.5 gm
2.5 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
58.5 gm
q.s
q.s.
Melt hrst three componentsat about 70oC and add borax and sorbitan sesquioleateand mix properly. Mix borax with water, heat it and
add slowly with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring and add perfume when cooledto 40"C.
OIL-IN-WATER
CREAM
Formula 16
Mineral oil
Stearicacid
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
149
t]AIR CROOMINGAIDS
Formulal7
35.5gm
Mineraloil
2.5 gm
Stearicacid
2.0 gm
4.5 gm
Propyleneglycol
1.0gm
Triethanolamine
gm
54.5
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
llcnt stearic acid and mineral oil togetherat about 70"C' Mix
propyleneglycol (with dissolvedpreservative),
glyrcryl monostearate,
and water and heat it to same70oC and mix with first
trietlurrrolamine
ilrre with continuousstining. Cool slowly and add perfumewhen the
is at about40"C.
tFrul)erature
Formulalt
Formula15
Beeswax
Mineral oil
Petroleumjelly
Sorbitansesquioleate
Borax
Water
Perfume
Preservative
I h II
45.0 gm
3.5 gm
1.5 gm
50.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70oC and add triethanolamine.
Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume.
25.0 gm
Lanolin
1.0 gm
alcohol
Cetyl
gm
9.0
monostearate
Glyceryl
gm
62.0
Water
gm
3.0
Glycerine
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
lleut lanolin and cetyl alcoholat 70oC. Take glyceryl monostearate
lrrtl waterand alsoheatto 70"C. Add the aqueousmixture with lanolin
witlr continuousstirring. Cool and add perfume. Preservativecan be
rlirrolvedin glyoerineand mix to the preparedcream.
(4) HAIR LACQUERS OR SPRAYS
llair tacquersor sprays are used to hold the hair setting firmly,
rlar:inlly in women,in shapeand control the looseendswithout disturblirg the good appearance. These products make the hair dry very
rlrrickly. As lotions have water and leave the hair damp, lacquersor
rPruys have advantageover them due to their quick drying. Initial
of
;rroductswere not much good and over the years a good amount
t.lrangehas occuned. Some lacquers are nearly same as gum-based
appear;rreparationsas film forming substancesare also present. The
different
a
them
perfumes
make
of
choice
and
use
characteristics,
ltco,
product. They mainly contain a film former in a suitable vehicle and
rlong with a plasticizeror modifier.
150
The basiccompositionis:(a) Film former

(b) Plasticizeror modifier
(c) Vehicle or solvent
(d) Perfume
In very early period shellacwas usedas film former which contains
957.io
of resinoussubstances
like alevritic,shellolic.kenolic and butolic
acids. Shellac is insolublein water but soluble in alcohol, isopropyl
alcohol and in alkali media. Though betterfilm formersare available,
still someprofessionalhairdressers
useshellac-based
sprays.Otherearly
film formers were benzoin,styrax. Afterward polyvinyl pyrrolidonehas
been found very good. But as it is hygroscopic,slowly water droplets
precipitateon hair and make it dull and unattractive. To overcomethis
problem shellac, lanolin, natural rosin lanopals can be incorporated
along with polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Incorporationof siliconesalso gives
betterfeeling,longerdurationof holding and betterappearance.
Polyvinyl pynolidone can be replacedby other polymerslike ethyl
cellulose,dimethylhydantoin-formaldehyde
polymer,copolymerof polyvinyl pyrrolidoneand vinyl acetate
As most of thesepolymersare solublein alcohol,it is mainly usedas
solvent or vehicle. When the polymer has some solubility in water,
partially water can be usedas solventalong with alcohol. Alcohol has
added advantageof quick evaporationand drying. Drying rate is an
important factor for sprays.
Plasticizeror modifier is requiredto have elasticfilm coveringthe
hair. For this castoroil, lanolin derivatives,diethyl phthalate,propylene
glycol monolaurate,etc. are used.
Selectionof suitableperfumeis very important. Perfumeshouldbe
stableand long acting. Preservative
is not normallyrequiredas alcohol
concentrationis very high. The productsare marketedin containerwith
spraysystemor as aerosols.
Formula 19
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone
Dimethyl phthalate
Silicon
Alcohol
Perfume
2.50 gm
2.00 gm
0.05 gm
95"45gm
q.s.
Preparation can be made by simple solution techniques.
r h ll
l5l
AIDS
IIAIRGROOMING
Formula20
resin
formaldehyde
hydantoin
Dimethyl
(25%
alcohol)
in
isopropyl
solution
Shellac
Silicone fluid
Isopropyl myristate
Alcohol
Perfume
5.0
0.5
0.1
0.4
94.0
q.s.
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
I'rcpzrreby sirnple solution techniques.
Formula21
(60:a0)
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone/Vinylacetate
Dimethylphthalate
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
Formula22
Shellac
Castor oil
Diethyl phthalate
Alcohol
Perfume
By simple solution process.
2.50 gm
0.25 gm
50.00 grn
47.25 gm
q.s.
4.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.2 gm
95.6 gm
q.s.
l " r' nl unti on

Apart from identification of the ingredients and their quantity a few
rrllrcrlcsts are to be carriedout:
( l) Stabilif of the ingredients : This is done by normal stability
etrrrly ol'the active ingredients at room temperature or by accelerated
ql nl ri l ' i l ystudy.
(2) l'hysical stability : This is particularly important for emulsion
r\llr, l)roparationsto evaluate the stability of the emulsion creams' This
r dn l)c done by accelerated test by exposing the preparations alterrtrlrvcly to heat and cold.
(.!) llheology : This can be studied by using suitable equipment
Ir'r:ic()rneter)to rneasurethe viscosity and effect of storage on it'
r h ll
CHAPTER-12
Hair Wavers,Curlers
and Straighteners
It is a natural desire for all, specially women, to have a beautiful antl
attractive curly or wavy hair. It is well known that a method ol
permanent hair waving was practised by early Egyptian women. Thc
method was used to be winding a mesh on a cane stick, covering it with
liquid mud and allorving it to bake dry in the sun. Over the years thc
method has been modified to make the curling long-lasting, better anrl
faster. As, always, the curling hair is more attractive than straight hair
and also can be arranged in further attractive styles. There is a demantl
for techniques or methods for making hair curling or waving. To makr'
wigs of permanent curly hair, wig-makers used to wound hair on u
curling rod and immersed it in boiling water or steam for a few hours. Il
borax or mild alkali was added to the hot water the time of immersiorr
could be less. Early workers who pioneered in this area are Charles
Nessler, E. Fredric and Eugene Suter who suggestedchemicals to add in
boiling water to achieve curly hair.
Principle of Action
The structure of cortex gives the hair the definite form and it, mainly.
consists of long parallel polypeptide chains connectedby cross linkages
The chains are, normally, folded and in dry condition it cannot bc
stretched much. But, in wet condition they can be stretched up to l00ol,
or even more. Permanentwaving consists of the following stages.
(1) Differential stretching of the hair : Hair is thoroughly wetted.
then rolled and the polypeptide chains are extended with variable forcc
and thus a tension is created on linkages.
(2) Disruption of the cross-linkages : Most of the cross-linkages
are broken chemically and the tension is thus relaxed.
(3) Re-establishment of cross-linkage : Then the cross-linkagesart:
restored in such a way that the hair is no longer trained in its new rolled
form by drying or cooling of the hair or by removing all chemicals.
t52
AND STRAIGHTENERS
IIAIRWAMRS. CURLERS
153
Itlrthods snd Preparations for Waving

Virrious methods and preparations are used to achieve waving of
lrnirr, 'l'hey are discussedbelow:
( | ) Wave set preparations : At room temperature or with moderate
lrcnlirrp,.,water can break hydrogen bond and salt linkages but not
rli,rrrlphidebridges. This can produce limited swelling and softening of
llrc lrrrirs. This helps to arrangethe hair-setting as desired and the setting
tr rrr'lricvedby quick evaporation of water by some means. The waves
grrr'Pirrcd
by this technique are not long-lasting as amide and disulphide
Irlhugcs are undisruptedand the new hydrogen bond and salt bridges are
qtorr lt)gsenedby moisture from atmosphere and perspiration and the
,reilirrgis disrupted. The setting life can be enhanced by incorporating
rrrrrcirrsin setting lotions, such as pectin, carrageen,alginate, tragacanth,
hnrrryaltum or synthetic film former which form a thin film surrounding
tlr(. lruir after the preparation is applied and dried. The mechanical
retristirnceof the film keeps the hair for some time in the new arrangerrrr'rrr, l:'ormulaeof a few such preparationsare mentioned below:
Formula I
Apple pectin
Citric acid
Rose water
Perfume
Preservative
1.0 gm
0.5 Gm
98.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
l)issolve preservative and citric acid in water at high temperature.

Arkl the pectin and stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin completely.
Arld perfume finally.
Formula2
Sodiumcarbonate,anhydrous
Alginic acid
Rosewater
Perfume
Preservative
3.0 gm
6.0 gm
91.0 Gm
q.s.
q.s.
and sodiumcarbonatein rosewater. Add

liirst dissolvepreservative
nlg,irricacid with continuousstining to dissolveit completely'
(2) Hot wave preparations : As it is mentionedearlier,primitive
lrot wavingmethodwas utilizedby Egyptianwomenby winding a mesh
ol'hair over a stick and coveringit with liquid rnud and drying it in sun.
154
I lr l/
A IIANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
155
PERMANENT WAVING SOLUTIONS
over the years the method has been changed and chemical agents are
being utilized in place of mud. But the basic principle remains the
same. Wet hair can be stretched to 100%oor more and soft hair, made by
chemical treatment, can be waved permanently. In these preparations,
the main ingredient is water which vaporizes when the hair is heated.
Formula 3
Ammoniumhydroxide
Sodiumcarbonate
Potassiumsulphite
Water
Perfume
As mentioned in the earlier preparationswater can disrupt the hydrogen bond and salt linkages but is unable to disrupt disulphide or amide
linkages, some chemical agents are incorporated in hot-wave preparations to achieve the disruption of the latter. Bases such as sodium and
potassium hydroxides and carbonates as well as borax were preferred
earlier. But they have the problem that they fuse with hair and form a
hard and brittle cuticle with keratin. So, they were replaced by ammonia
which evaporates while drying and leaves no residue. But ammonia
imparts an unpleasant odour and mostly evaporates before complete
swelling and gives the hair a reddish tint. Then ammonia was combined
or completely replaced with less volatile bases like mono/or triethanolamine,or morpholine.
20.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
74.0 gm
q.s.
l'repare by simple gradual mixing and making solution.

Formula4
Ammonium carbonate
Sodium carbonate
Borax
Water
Perfume
0.25gm
0.45 gm
2.65 gm
90.65gm
q.s.
l)repareby gradual mixing and solution.

Formula5
Monoethanolamrne
Tri-isopropylamine
Sodium hydroxide
Sodium sulphite
Turkey red oil
Water
Perfume
Sodium or potassium sulphites or bisutrphitesare being incorporated

permanent
in
waving preparations to disrupt disulphide linkages. Also
successfuluse of cyclic organic sulphonates,such as glycol sulphite or
butadiene sulphonate,has been reported. lncorporation of surfactantsin
the preparations promotes rapid wetting of the hair and helps in solubilizing the perfume oil.
Some patent preparations reportedly use
sequestering agent, EDTA etc., to prevent the oxidation of the solution
by inactivating the catalytic metal ions. Also addition of conditioninc
agents has been suggestedby some workers.
The stepwise general procedure for hot waving is as follows.
needs to be modified according to need and preparations.
llAlR WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS
3.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.6 gm
3.0 gm
1.5 gm
88.9gm
q.s.
Nlrr llrst four components with part of water. Take turkey red oil
dlrl ;r1'rlirrrreand mix with some amount of water and mix with first
= rr111111v11,
Make vol um e.
It
,{prr,l lrom using electrical heating or preheatedrods, chemical heatirE! (,rtr lic also used in permanentwaving. In this method the heat is
grft'rirt.tl by reacting exothermic materials after application of chemir al', rrlolrgwith a moisteningmedium.
(a) Hair is cleaned to remove greasy or dusty materials using

shampoo.
(b) Hair is divided in several parts and wound around a suitable
roller with little tension.
llrt' lrcrrlis normally generatedby any of the fbllowing processes.

1I) Oxidation reduction
(l ) l l ydration
( |) Neutralization
(c) A wet strip soaked with suitable solution is wound over the
hair.
(rt) The whole set is heated and dried by encasing in a suitable
electrical heater or by other means"
I lrr r'lrcrnic'ally
heatingmethod was developedlong back in England
in lr,'l
At early stage of the developmentof this method quicklime
rrer',ili('(l rvilll a rnoisteningagent such as ammonium sulphate,agar or
*tilrr,ilr:r Alicrrwardsseveral other agents have been deveioped and
t=e-
156
A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
t h I.1 IIAIR WAIVERS. CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS
they include active agents like aluminium and its chloride and sulphate,
barium salts, ammonium salts of organic acids, copper carbonate,copper
nitrate, iron frllings, etc.
(3) Cold waving procedures : In cold waving procedure, a permanent waving can be achieved by making new permanent cross-linkages
in hair without applying heat. This method has partly replaced hot
waving method in several places.
WAVING SOLUTIONS
Formula5
Thioglycollic acid
Ammonia (35%ow/w)
Water
Perfume
Thioglycollic acid is widely used for cold waving and used in 4 to

8o%depending on the need. In addition to thioglycollic acid, coldwave
so l ut ions alway s c o n ta i n a n a l k a l i , preferabl y ammoni a.
monoethanolamine, isopropanolamine. Strong bases like sodium or
potassium hydroxide may be used in very low concentrations,but not
much preferred. Triethanolamine is also not preferred.
After processing the hair with reducing agents for required period,
the hair, then, is to be neutralized using an oxidizing solution for
5-10 minutes. Normally after unwinding the hair one more treatment
with oxidizing solution is done and the hair is made tc intended style.
Cold waving preparationscan be in solution, powders or creams.
6.62 gm
2.ll gm
91.27gm
q.s.
Prepareby simple solution.
Cold waving can be achieved by different methods as mentioned

below:
(a) Chemical neutralization
(b) Atmospheric oxidation
(c) Special methods like using pin perms, roller perms, etc.
It has been observed that alkali solution of substituted mercaptan,
thioglycollic acid, reduces the disulphide linkages in the keratin. The
pH should be above 7.0 and below 10.0, preferably between 9-2 to 9.5.
The substitutedgroup of mercaptan may be ionized or non-ionized. The
concentration of rnercaptan is expected to be between I to l.SYo. The
alkali vehicle should be a volatile base.
t57
Formula7
Thioglycollic acid
Monoethanolamine
Ammonia (35o/ow/w)
Water
Perfume
7.0 gm
8.0 gm
2.0 gm
83.0 gm
q.s.

COLD WAVE POWDERS
Formula8
Thioglycollic acid
Ammonium carbonate
Sodium carbonate
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
24I gm
Mix thioglycollic acid and ammoniumbicarbonateuntil no more

r rulrrrrrdioxideis liberated.Now add sodiumcarbonateand mix till no
Irrrrr|'sirre presentand pack it properlyto avoid moisture. Before
use
ll grno(-thispowderis to be dissolvedin 100ml water.
Nrulrullzer
The total process can be divided into the following steps:-
(1) Cleaningthe hair to removegreaseand dust.

(2) Whole hair is divided into parts and waving lotion is applied
thoroughlyand woundon curlers.
(3) Kept for about20-40 minutes.
(4) Then the hair is rinsedwith neutralizerand kept for l0 minutes.
(s)Hair is removed lrom the hair curlers and once aeain washed
with neutralizingsolution.
(6) Finally the hair is rinsedoff.
I lrc ncutralizinglotion consistsof-( l) A weakacid suchas acetic,citrie,tartaricacid.

(2) An oxidizing agent such as hydrogenperoxide,sodium
or
potassium bromate, sodium perborate, ammonium
persulphate,
sodiumchlorate.etc.
OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
I58
I h L'
The neutralizing agents are marketed as aqueous solutions or in

powder form. Hydrogen peroxide is marketed as solid or as ureahydrogen peroxide complex.
159
rerlrrcirrglotion, processingof hair and neutralization processare done as

ttt ttttl
As lor normal permanent waving the hair is tightly wound over

r rrrlt'rs,it takesa plenty of time to set the hair. In the above-mentioned
rrr.llrrtl lcscttingdoes not take time. After the treatmentthe hair can be
,ltrtr tly dried and can be reseteasily or need not require to set at all.
NEUTRALIZINGLOTIONS
Formula9
26.4 gm
Hydrogenperoxide
1.2 gm
Citric acid
gm
2.8
lauryl
ether
Polyoxyethylene
gm
0.4
Rosin opacifier
gm
69.2
Water
(.1) Instant perms : These are more or less same as chemically

lerrtrrlizcd perms. But here the processingtime after winding is nil.
llrr conlact of the reducing agent and the hair is done before winding.
tl"nnrlly the processingtime is made less by using more of free
r l I I | | | l l )| I l i l .
F o rm u l a1 0
Sodium bromate
Polyglycol 400 laurate
Diglycol stearate
Sodium cetyl sulphate
Polyglycol 400
Water
llAIl{ WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS
20.0 gm
5.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
2.5 gm
0.5 gm
60.0 gm
I lrioglycollate is toxic to eye and irritant to skin, if remains in

r .111;11
1 lirr a long time. So, care should be taken while applying to same
r1t. i rrrrlski n.
llrlr' lilraighteners
Ilrrrugh the hair straightenersare actionwise opposite to waving or
trrrlirrpiprocess but it is discussed here as this is also achieved by
nr,r,lrl.yirrg
the hair structureby breaking cross linkages.
Atmospheric Oxidation
llrrir straighteners are also, to some extent, related to cold-wave

l,rcprrirlions. In this the thioglycollate treatment is done for reverse
lurlxrsrr. They are used to straighten the curly or kinky hair by breaking
tlr,' ,lisulphide linkages of curly hair and reforming them in uncurled
In this method the hair is reduced by the same wa)' g;; inentioned in
earlier topic by using alkaline thioglyccllic acid but the hair is kept for
sel,/ersihcurs in curlcrs ani.laiiowed for atmosphericoxidation' Then the
hair is reieaseclfrom the curlers and washed and set as desired. As it is
kept for 5 hcurs, it can only be used at home, but the hair is treated with
sl l 'tl rt.
I lrcrc are different methods or techniques for straightening of hairs.
less reagents.
{ l) llot comb-pressing oil methods : In this method, first petrolrrrrrrjclly is applied to straightenthe hair and then eombed using a hot
lrrlirl A rnixture of,petrolatum and paraffin can also be used. Petrolarrrr :lr:ts as a heat transfer agent between hot metal and hair. After
rhrirrglhc hot comb, the hair is washedand dried. The method is not a
l rettni l l terlone.
tt
Special Methods
Different and special techniques and accessoriesare used to achieve
cold-waving and are mentioned below:-(1) Tepid warntr air wave : In this method the thioglycollate treatrnent is clone at slightly elevated temperature for faster and better result.
Using elevatecltemperature will also reduce the required concentration
of thioglycolhrte. 'fhe heating can be done by electrical process or by
(2) Oaustic preparation : In this method caustic alkali preparations

tr I r('rrn lbrm are applied for straightening purpose. The alkali is used
irr lr.trvccrr 4 to 9o/oand higher concentration makes the process faster.
ln lrrcpurcthe cream, selectionof oil phase and surfactantshas to be
rlrrrrct'rrrclully. They should not form salt with alkali. As alkali causes
rlirrrirf'.c
to scalp or eye, care should be taken.
hood dryer.
(2) Itoller and pire perm$ : \\rhen the curling is intended fbr a short
time, say f,ervweeks, this modifiectrrnethod can be very usefill. The hair
can be r,vorrndover large diameter(l%") roller curlers or over ordinary
hairpins tcl make curls of 1" in cliameter. .Tlren the applicatinn of
1.1) Ohcmical hair reducing agents : Thioglycollatereducingagents

r trr l)c rrscdhere also, as they break disulphide linkages of curly hair and
t=rl
160
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICTi
straightenthem. The curlersare removedafter thioglycoflate

treatment,
when the hair is in soft condition. Thenthe hair is rinsed
with neutralizing lotions. After this a suitablecreamis appliedto hold
the hair firmly
in position.
Evaluation
It is necessary
to measurethe quantityof the chemicaragentspresenr
in the preparationsas use of higher toncentrationis
toxic and nol
permittedby severalcountries. Also identificationtests
for otheringredientsare to be done.
(l) Toxic or side effects: Severaltestsare requiredto
evaluatethc
toxic effects;the effectscan be scalp irritation,damageto
the general
health, incompatibilitydue to cross-sensitization
leading to deriratitis.
This can be done on animal or by patchtest on humanvolunteers.
(2) stabilify test : It is necessary
to test the stabilityand usefulness
of the productduring sherflife, as severaringredientsare present.
This
can be done by normarstabilitytest or accelerated
stabilitvtest.
CHAPTER-13
Hair Removers
llerrrrvtl of superfluoushair has been in practice from the ancient
pariod. Egyptiandancersand courtiers,thousandsofyears ago, knew
Iruw kr remove hair growth on arrns and legs. Shaving by men,
Ir,lrnbly, startedmuch before that. one of the earliest substances
tep'rlcd to be used by the Egyptian dancersfor removal of unwanted
hrrtris rhusma,amixture of quicklimeand arsenicalpyritesin aratio of
I .t l' powder form this was mixed with aqueousalkali before use.
Arrrlhersubstance
reportedto be usedfor the samepurposewasorpiment
whirrlris arsenictrisulphide.Anothertechniquewhich wasp'sed,in early
ql'ges, fbr removal of unwantedhair was rubbing
the skin surfacewith
Iilllnt(:cstone.
I'rirctice of hair removal by men is mainly removal of facial hair,
;rnrlly .r totally. This is termed as shaving and preparationsfor this will
I'r. discussedin the subsequentchapter (Shaving preparations).
w<lmen use various techniques and substancesto remove hair from
!lepilatories
"s
l)cpilatories are the preparationsused for degradationofthe superfluhair chemically without affecting the skin, Depilatory removes thc
l6l
162
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S
hair at the neck of the hair follicle and thus has advantage over razor
shaver which removes hair on a level with the surface of the epidermis.
Razor shaven hair growth is thus notiieable sooner than depilatory
removal.
As mentioned in the introduction, the first depilatory is reportedto bc
rhusma used by the Egyptian dancers. The depilatories act by degrading
the hair keratin. As it is known that keratin is sensitive to the action ol'
strongly alkaline aqueous solutions and reducing agents, mbst of the
depilatories consist of such agents. The alkaline reducing agents cause
the swelling of the hair fibres and break the cystine bridges between
adjacent polypeptide chains as a first step to the complete degradationol'
the hair.
As stratum corneum also contains keratin, depilatories may cause
local damage of the skin by also affecting skin keratin when applied for
hair removal. This effect can be avoided or minimized by properly
formulating with correct choice of agents in proper concentration and
applying it for a short period of time. So, the preparationshould be such
that it can preferentially and rapidly reacts with hair for selective degradation of hair keratin without damaging the skin.
So, the desirable charactersof an ideal depilatory preparation are(l) Selectivein action
(2) Efficient and rapid action in few minutes
(3) Non-toxic and non-allergic to the skin
(4) Odourless
(5) Easy to apply
(6) Stable
(7) Non-staining to clothing
Ingredients
Different substancesare used for removal of hair in depilatory preparations. Apart from the active component of depilatory agent and water
as vehicle, the preparations also contain humectants such as glycerine,
propylene glycol; thickening agents to enhancethe viscosity; surfactants
to emulsiff incorporated fat, if any. Also polyethylene grycors are used
to form a film on the skin. optionally, sometimes, astringents, rocal
anaestheticsor mucins and inert powders are also incorporated.
(l) Inorganic sulphides : First depilatory reported, rhusma, contained arsenic trisulphide (As2S3). It is no more used as it can be
dangerous to skin, particularly the skin not in good condition. The
sulphides of sodium, calcium, strontium and barium are there for use as
t lr lr
l l ^l l r R E MO VERS
163
rfe;rrlirlrrry.Sodium sulphide,2oloaqueoussolution at pH 12, is a strong

rlcprlrrtory and can degrade hair in 6-7 minutes. But it has a strong
rr,tr(ln ()n tlre skin, so not preferred nowadays. Barium sulphide is
hrplrly loxic and calcium sulphide is less toxic but also less effective as
rlrprlrrlory. Depilatory activity of the magnesiumsulphide is also very
hrrv lrrrl zinc sulphide is poorly water soluble. Strontium sulphide is a
l,r'tter c:hoice as depilatory. Though it is not as active as sodium
rrrllrlridc but when used at high concentration of about 25-50o/oit can
,fr'p.rirrlc
lrair in 3-4 minutes. At ls%o concentrationthe same can be
rrrlricvcd by 5-7 minutes. For optimum activity pH should be about 12'
I lrt' slrort period of action almost does not cause any skin irritation or
,lrrrrirgc. One disadvantageof inorganic sulphides is unpleasant odour
lrr,rlrrccd by formation of hydrogen sulphide on hydrolysis. Sometimes
tt rcnririnseven after washings.
12) Thioglycollates ; Most widely used active ingredientsin depilat'r ics, presentday, are substitutedmercaptans,especially thioglycollates'
I lrcscare also used in conjunction with an alkali. Calcium thioglycollate
rrt ,'5 to 4Yo is a good depilatory agent when used in conjunction with
r rrltiurn or strontiumhydroxide and at pH between 1l-12. At concentralrrrrs below 2o/o it is very slow and above 4%o there is not much
r'rrlrirrrccment
in activity. Depending on concentration of calcium
tlrroglycollateit takes 5-15 minutes for removal of hair. This substance
r', lcss toxic and odour is much less than sulphides.
l.ithium thioglycollate has also been reportedly used as a depilatory
rrp.crrt.Apart from calcium and strontium hydroxides alkali hydroxides,
,.,r,lirrnror potassium, can also be used as bases. Cetyl alcohol is also
rrrcorporatedto obtain a cream like product.
(.!) Stannites : In the period of 1930-1945 several patents have
rclrortcd use of stannites. Particularly sodium stannite (NaH3SnO3) is a
nrrrc,lrreported active ingredient in depilatory preparations. In presence
ol wuter these salts impart a strong reducing and alkaline effect. It is
orlrrrrless, in comparison to sulphides. But these substanceswere not
krurrdin much use later.
(4) Enzymes : Keratinase enzymes have also been found in use as
rl.rpilatory. They are non-irritant and odourless. Enzymes digest the
lcratin of hair at a buffered optimum pH of 7-8. Enzyme is used at a
t'orrcentrationbetween 3-47o.
(5) Other additives : Humectants are incorporated to prevent quick
tlrying on the skin. Substancesthat can be used are glycerine, sorbitol,
propyleneglycol.
164
A HANDBoOK
oF coSMETtCs
Thickening agents,like methyl cellulose,starch,mucins, are als.

incorporatedto achievea proper consistencyfor appryingon skin and t.
help in dispersingany solidsused.
Sometimesinert powders like talc, calcium carbonate,zinc oxide,
osmo-kaolin,titaniumoxide are incorporated
to get consistency,
preventing quick drying on the skin and to makea visible film.
Polyethyleneglycols are usedto form a film which is easyto wash
off.
Fats are incorporatedto have skin-protectingor conditioning effect.
Surfactantsare used to emulsify any fats incorporatedor to promote
wetting of the hair. They also help in washingoff the preparationsafter
use.
sometimesastringents,local anaesthetics
or disinfectantsare used.
Water-solubleperfumesand preservatives
are also incorporated.
Formula I
Strontiumsulphide
Talc
Methyl cellulose
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
15.0gm
42.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ula 2
Strontium sulphide
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Lime water
Perfume
Preservative
30.0 gm
3.0 gm
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
42.0 gm
q.s.
q.s
Dissolve the preservative in the glycerine. Then to a portion of the

glycerine mix the gum tragacanth and add sufficient water to make a
mucilage. Triturate titanium dioxide with zinc oxide and mix with
remaining portion of the glycerine. Add the mucilage slowly to this
with trituration. Add the strontium sulphide, calcium carbonate and
perfume with trituration. Dilute it with remainder of the lime water.
r h ll
165
l l ^ I t t R L M O V ER S
trlr. rrrrlil homogeneous and then mill to smooth the product.
3
Formula
Thioglycollic acid(90%)
Hydratedlime
Calcium carbonate (precipitated)
Stearyl alcohol
Sulphonatedstearyl alcohol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
4.0 gm
10.0gm
20.0 gm
6.0 gm
0.6 gm
59.4 gm
q.s.
q.s
l'rcparethe cream base by mixing and triturating stearyl alcohol,

nrrllrlronated
stearylalcohol and water and preservative.Add the sub'itirr(csgraduallyto the basewith trituration.Mill to the smooth.
Formula4
6.0 gm
Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate
20.0 gm
Calcium carbonate
2.0 gm
Titanium dioxide
5.0 gm
alcohol
Cetyl
0.5 gm
(powder or needless)
5.0 gm
Glycerine
gm
61.5
Water
q.s.
Perfume
Calcium hydroxide to adjust pH to 12 q.s
Mix and triturate titanium dioxide with glycerine. Melt cetyl alcohol
rrrrrludd the glycerine mixture and add a little water to form a paste.
I'rclxrre a mixture of sodium lauryl sulphate, calcium hydroxide and
, ,rlcirrrrrthioglycollate separately. Add this to a mixture of calcium
t.irrlrorratein water. Now add this mixture to the letyl alcohol paste with
ilrillinuous stirring to form a cream. Adjust the pH value and total
rvcipilrtwith calcium hydroxide and water and then finally mill.
For m ula5
6.0
Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate
17'5
Calcium carbonate
5'o
Mineral oil
5.0
Cetyl alcohol
0.5
(powder
needless)
or
3.5
Glycerine
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
gm
r6 8
the quantity. It can be done by any instrumentalchemicalanalysis.

(2) Toxicity test : The test can be doneon animal. For this purpose
rabbit can be used. Preparations
can be appliedfor hair removaland the
effecton the skin can be studiedby observation
or by microscopicstudy.
(3) Stability : Stability of the product is very important. This is
done by any normal stability study or acceleratedstability study at
highertemperature.
(4) Rheology: Rheologyof the preparationcan be studiedby using
any suitableviscometer.
CIIAPTER-14
Shaving Preparations
Itr tllc preceding chapter preparationsand methods adopted for removal
rrf rrrrwantedhair have been discussed. As shaving creams are different
Irr rr.,r'urrd in nature, it is discussedseparatelyin this chapter.
I lrcsc are widely used men's cosmetic products. Shaving preparatllr\ nlay be divided, basically, into two groups( I ) Preparationsused before shaving
(2) Preparations used after shaving
(l) PREPARATIONS
USED BEFORE SHAVING
llrc:scpreparationsare used for softening the beard for wet shaving

rrrr,frrfs<rto produce rich foam to facilitate shaving by razor, safety blade
rrr r.leclric shaving. These preparations can further be classified into
l w rr
(A) Preparationsused for shaving with razor blade
(ll) Preparationsused for electric shaving
llistorically probably men started removal of hair from the face after
rrgrrt rrltural revolution. Earlier to that it is to be assumedthat males also
Iepl lurir like animals. At very early stage the shaving must have been
rery rudimentary. Probably it was effected by cutting hair with some
ahargrrnetallicedge.
(,l course water might have been used for softening of the hair. The
rrqe ol' cosmetics came at a very late stage. Most of the shaving
prepulirtionsmake the hair soft and assist the movement of razor on the
clirr srrrface. Even now in many rural parts the shaving is done only by
rrrrrir.lcning
hair with water. As this chapterwill unfold, shavingpreparrrtiorrsare a classby themselves.
1A) Prcparations Used for Shaving with Razor Blade
llrough it is possible to shave by razor or blade without any assistnrrrc liom cosmetic preparations, but because of hardness of the dry
t69
170
A FTANDBooK
oF cosMErrcs
keratin, movement of the rzlzors or blades becomes difficult.

The
shaving causes irritation. Also, the hard keratin spoils the blades or
razor edge. As the shaving remains incomplete, several shavlngs are
required. Multiple shavings may possibly causethe cutting of the skin.
I h I'I SIIAVING
PREPARATIONS
I71
Slr'ving soapsmainly consist of potassium soap with a little

amount
As discussed earlier in hair and hair removal chapters, water can

soften the hair. But, normally, water gets evaporated before sufficient
wetting of the hair as it takes some time to soften hair. These drawbacks
can be overcome by use of shaving preparationslike shaving soaps,and
creams and others, though water is main component for such softening.
Shaving preparationssupport the action of water by multiple mechanisms of the constituents of such preparations(l)
Wetting agents promote the wetting of the hair.
(2) Alkali reaction of some agents causesfaster swelling of the

keratin.
(3) Humectantsand water-impermeablesubstancesprevent rapid
evaporation of the water.
Additionally these pieparations, particularly rich lather, helps to keep
the hair erect, so as not to escape the razor or blacle and lubricating
effect permits the smooth gliding of the razor or blade over the skin.
Also, some hair softening agents, particularly rich agents, may be
incorporated but as the shaving takes short time, such agents should act
very fast, should not damage the skin and should not have unpleasant
odour.
These preparationscan be classified into three groups(l) Shaving soaps : Solid and creams
(2) Brushless shaving creams
(3) Aerosol preparations
(1) Shaving soaps : Once, solid soaps or cakes or sticks were used
widely. But over the years shaving creams have largety replaced the
solid soaps. The creams have replaced the solid products because of
ease of application.
trn all these preparations, a concentrated aqueous solution of soap,
supported by the mechanical action of the brush, is used to produce
lather and acts on beard. Before application a normal washing is done to
remove fat film over the beard. The products are expectedto produce a
rich. soft and fine lather and the latlier should be lorrg-lasting,at least fbr
5-10 minutes for complete shaving.
Soaps are n-larketedin three fbrms: cake, solid sticl<arrrj creams.
\l;rcrfirlting agents such as mineral oil, petrolatum, free

fatty acids,
lrrltr irlr.lr.ls, poiyoxyethyleneglycols and lanolin are normally
incorfr.rrrtc(l in the preparationsto make the lather softer and creamier and
alrrr kr have an emollient effect on the skin. In creams
totar fatty
a'l'rlrrrt'csshould be minimum 30%. Additionally
some other additives
dre irl\() irrcorporatedto have additional effects. They are chlorhexidine
disinfectants, menthol etc. for cooling effect, silicones for
'r 'llrr:r'
frrlrritirliori and ease of dragging razor or blade, perfumes for
appealing
f Ltvoilt and preservatives,
if required.
SOAPBAR
FormulaI
Stearicacid
Coconutoil
Causticpotash
Causticsoda
Water
Sodiumdioxystearate
(50%)
Sorbitalliquid
Glycerol
Perfume
Preservative
49.00gm
13.00gm
22.00gm
12.00gm
1.25gm
0.75 gm
1.25gm
0.75 gm
q.s.
q.s.
SOAPCREAM
Formula2
n. Stearicacid
Coconutoil
Palmkerneloil
ll Potassium
hydroxide
Sodiumhydroxide
30.0gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
7.0 gm
1.5 gm
173
t tr l4 lillAVING PREPARATIONS
172
Giycerine
Water
Perfume
Preservative
,l
0.0 gm
36.5 8m
q.s.
q.s.
Heat with compositions of 'A' and 'B' separately at about 75"C"

Preservativeshould be incorporated with glycerine or water. Mix 'B' to
'A' with stirring until cream is formed' Cool it to 45"C and add
perfume. Mill it.
F o rmu l a3
Stearic acid
Olive oil
Coconut oil
Glycerine
Lecithin
Potassium hydroxide (80%)
Sodium hydroxide (90%)
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Formula5
Stearic acid
Glycerine
Mineral oil
Water
Perfume
Preservative
14.0gm
8.0 gm
5.0 gm
3.0 gm
70.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
38.0gm
2.0 gm
6.0 gm
4.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.6 gm
0.3 gm
46.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
(2) Brushtess shaving creams : In these preparations, lathering

with brush is omifie<I. After washing off the face with soap and warm
water, these shaving crearns are applied to keep the beard soft till the
shaving is completed. Initial washing helps in defatting and makes the
hair soften. The creams function is to prevent the keratin from drying
and hardening. As these creams are applied on wet face, they should be
miscible with water for even spreading. They mainly consist of stearate
soap and additionatly contain oils. humectant,viscosity enhancingagent.
The futty substancesshould be at least 209/o" lncorporation of sorne
waxes can enhance the viscosity and it is required as consistency is
important for proper application. Perftirnes and preservativesare also
incorporateci.
Formula4
15.0 gm
Stearicacid
14.0 gm
h{ineral oil
2"0 gm
Spermaceti
6.0 gm
Glycerine
Dilute solution of amrnonia(10% of NH3) 2'0 gm
60.0 gm
Water
q's.
Perfurne
,
q"s.
Preservative
PO\1'I}8trT5
liorrmul;r6
Magnesium stearate
Kaolirr
Talc
Perfume
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
fi8.0 5irrt
q.s.
174
Formula 7
Zinc stearate
7.0 gm
6.0 gm
87.0 gm
q.s.
Kaolin
Talc
Perfume
I h,I4
SIIAVING PREPARATIONS
l'he useful antibacterialor antiseptic substancesare quaternary

lrrrrrronium
compounds,
chlorhexidinediacetate.
('rcarnsarepreferredfor skinssensitiveto alcoholiciotions. Creams
r nrr ulso give extra benefit to the skin like any other emollient or
Itolcclive creams.
LOTIONS
Formula10
Formula8
Isopropyl myristate
Alcohol
Perfume
12.0gm
88.0gm
q.s
Formula9
Isopropyl myristate
Menthol
Alcohol
Perfume
12.00gm
0.05gm
0.10gm
87.85gm
q.s.
(2} PREPARATIONS
t75
USED AFTERSHAVING
These are another group of shaving preparationswidely used. Whatever may be the method of shaving there may be some irritation, minor
damage to skin or cuts. The extent depends on method, instrument and
preparations used for shaving. To overcome or treat these problems
various preparations are used and they are termed as after-shave preparations.
The after-shave preparationsare basically applied to cool and refresh
the skin, to overcome irritation on the skin, to neutralize the soreness,to
disinfect or heal the skin damage or cut. They are used in the form of
lotions, creams or powders.
The lotions are clear solutions containing 25 ta 50o/oalcohol. Additionally they may also contain antiseptic, ernollient, haemostyptic
substances. Also they may contain extract of witchhazel, menthol,
glycerine, boric acid, alum, potassium oxyquinoline sulphate and chloroform. If alcohol content is less, the perfume should be water soluble or
soluble in less concentrations of alcohol. Alternatively solubilizing
agents may be used.
Most of the lotions are used as after-shavepreparations. po*.ders are
also used to sorne extent but use of creams is comparatively less.
Toilet spirit
Glycerine
Cetrimide
Water
Perfume
50.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
46.9 gm
q.s.
Formulall
Alum
Glycerine
Menthol
Witchhazelextract
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
2.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
25.0 gm
25.0 gm
44.9 gm
q.s.
Formula12
Glycerine
Chlorhexidinediacetate
Menthol
Alcohol
Water
Perfume
2.0 gm
0.2 gm
0.1 gm
40.0 gm
57.7gm
q.s.
Formula13
Carbopol-934
Menthol
Alcohol
Di-isopropanolamine
Water
Perfume
1.0 gm
0.1 gm
45.0 gm
0.8 gm
53.1gm
q.s.
Formula14
Stearicacid
12.0gm
5.0 gm
t76
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICIi
Isopropylmyristate
Glycerine
Water
Perfume
,
'r
2.0 gm
5'o gm
76.0 gm
q.s"
POWDERS
Formula 15
Boric acid
Magnesium stearate
Talc
Perfume
F o rmu l a1 6
Calcium carbonate
Zinc stearate
Kaolin
Boric acid
Chlorhexidine diacetate
Talc
Perfume
3.0 gm
4.0 gm
93.0 gm
q.s.
5.0 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
2.0 gm
0.5 gm
77.5 gm
q.s.
Evaluation
As in any other products, shaving preparations and after-shave preparations should also be evaluated for quality and performance.
Identification of various ingredients and their quantitative estimation
should be done by suitable methods. Apart from these some other tests
also are to be carried out for these products.
(A) For Shaving Preparations(l) Determination of free caustic alkali : As free alkali can damage the skin, it is necessary to determine it. It can be done by any
suitable method.
(2) Determination of potash soap : As it is necessarythat 50% of
the alkali used for saponification be potash, it is also required to estimate
it.
(3) Determination of total free acids : It is also necessary tb
detennine the free fatty acids present in the soaps or creams. The titre of
total fatty acids is required to be determined by suitable means.
(4) Determination of total fatty materials : As a minimum amount
of total fatty materials must be preSent in different shaving preparations
I lr l4
S l l A V l N (i P RE P A R A TION S
177
and
l,,r ,iul)plctnentingoils to the skin, this is also to be checked
rl cl r'ttti
r ttcd.
(5) loam formation : For foam producing preparations formation
rrf loiilrr, the nature and stability of foam should be studied and coml,,rrr.rlwith the standard.
((r) Skin sensitization test : This is also important as these preparail,ril,,,(luc to presenceof some agents,can cause skin sensitization'
physical stability of
t7) Stability of the creams: This is to study
study'
stability
tlr,' procluctsby various means or accelerated
tlll l"or Aftershave Lotions1| )A nti septi cpr oper t y: Ast hesepr epar at ionscont ainant isept ics,
ir r'. ncccssaryto evaluate antiseptic property by in-vitro test'
(2)D etermi nat ionof a|coholcont ent : Thiscanbedet er m inedby
,ilr\ silitable method. As these preparationscontain alcohol it is necesrrrry lo estimatethe alcohol content.
(.1) Dermatological safety : The products should not have effect on
skin'
ulrrr. So, suitable test should be carried out to study the effect on
llris can be done on animal skin.
I h rr
CHAPTER-15
Nail
NAIL
179
l'hc body of the nail basically consists of tightly compresseddead

r ellr packed with keratin. As the cells producing the nails can be
aflct:tcd by conditions controlled by body metabolism, changes in the
rlrnpc,colour, structure of the nails can help in diagnosis of diseases. In
lrrlienls of chronic respiratory disorders, thyroid gland disorders, or
All)S thc nails become yellow. In psoriasistfre nails may become pifted
*rrrl tlislorted. They become concave in some blood disorders.
Free edge
Hyponychium(underneath)
Nail bed (underneath)
Lateral nail fold
Lateral nail groove
Lunula
Proximal nail fold
Eponychium
Eponychium
Epidermis
(I) Anatomy and History
Fig l5.l
Dermis
Schematicstructureof nail
1l ) (' omposi ti on
'l hc nails are also made of hard keratin like hair. The protein
sltrtelrrrccontains a high proportion of sulphur-rich amino acid cystine
rvltlt srnall proportion of methionone, tyrosine, lysine, and histidine. The
rrnil is composed of three layers, a soft lower layer called central nail,
rvitlr hard keratin forming the intermediate layer, and the outer layer
r nffcd dorsal nail. The nail also contains 12 to l4%o water and fattv
rrrnlerials
mainly of cholesterol.
'l'hc knowledge of composition suggeststhat the manicure preparaliotts should possibly avoid use of materials that remove natural fat or
rryrlcr-solublesubstancesas these could damage the lattice-like structure
ul lruil and may hasten the splitting or breaking. Sometimes fatty
rrrnlerialsare incorporated in manicure preparationsto supplementthem.
t78
180
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(.S
(3) Nail Disorders

As mentioned earlier the nail disorders may be attributed to disorder
of general condition of body, nervous strain or body metabolism or
dietary deficiency of vitamins, amino acids etc. occasionally minor
disorder also may occur.
l
There can be several disorders ofnails.
(a) Leukonychia : comprete whiteness of the nails or spots on thc
nail frequently occurs and is not necessarily termed as disease. one
suggestion is that this is due to the injury to nail with simultaneous
production of air bubble. Alternative suggestion is that this may be
due
to the presence of keratohyarin granules or enlarged acidopliiic ceils.
The diffusion of light by these granules makes the cells appear white
instead of pink.
(b) Koilonychia : This is also called spoon nails, as the nails are
depressedin centre and raised at the edges like a spoon.
(c) Effects of systemic disease : It has been found that sometimes
occurrence of a specific mark on nails, such as transversefurrowing of
the nails or a single furrow running across each nail, indicates the
occurrence of a specific disease. Different systemic diseases have
specific mark.
Sometimes a defective blood supply may cause a damage to the nail
bed and makes the nail brittle. Due to severe chilblains nails mav also
become detached from nail beds.
(d) Brittleness : Brittleness of nails may be caused by congenital
defects, systemic disorders or due to some other factors. the brittG naits
may split easily. Systemic disorders which can make nails brittle are
anaemia, avitaminogis, gout, hypo- and hyper-thyroidism.
Sometimes continuous use of nail varnishes or vamish removers,
without supplementing, in between, with nail creams, may also cause
brittleness.
It has, also, been observed that continuous supply of gelatin, orally,
makes the nails hard and brings back normalcy in afpearance and
recovery from brittleness.
This probably suggbsts that lack of gelatin supply may cause
brittleness.
(e) Disorders of fungal or bacterial origin : The fungal and bacterial infection of nails causes diseases like paronychia, nail ringworm,
and lesions produced by syphilis. paronychia is caused by yeasrlike
thl l
N A IL
l8l
Iilrrg.iin which the nail folds become red and swollen and mostly occurs
11 wornen whose hands are constantly in contact with w.ater, soaps and
rlelirg,cnts.
lrrl-octionof fungus under free edge of nail and attacking tli6 nail bed
nrrrlruril subsequentlyleads to ringworm of the nails. The affected nails
heeornerough, opaque and brittle.
t{) Nuil Nutrition
I'hough there is no definite proof of effects of deficiency of vitamins
or olhcr essential substances,but some workers reported that supplemerrting with vitamins A, D and B improves the health and appearance
ill nuils. Other substanceslike amino acids, proteins are also probably
rer[rircd" Fats or oily substancesdlsq supplementthe health of nails.
lr) Nail Cares and Preparations
Vurious products are marketed and are available for enhancing attractivcrcss of nails and contributing to overall beauty. They can be
r lnrsil'icd as follows(a) Nail lacquers and removers.
(h) Auxiliary products
(i) Cuticle removers
(ii) Nail bleachesand nail whites
(iii) Nail creams
I h 16 NAIL LAQUERSAND REMOVERS
CHAPTER.16
Nail Lacquers and Removers

Regular care and treatment is very much important
for nail grooming
and to maintain them in good condition. A sei
of manicureprelp-arations
consistsof a numberof differentcosmeticproducts
which are concerned
with.cleansingand preparationsof the nail and
its decoration.Nail is
considered,particularly by females,as an important
part foi g.oo_ing
and decorationto enhancebeautyand overall appeal.
Nail Lacquers
The nail lacquersare the largestand most important
group of manicure preparations.The products can vary from
transparentuncolouredto
oncehighly favouredpale pink to presentday
vivid rh"d"r. presentday
nail lacquers,which are also known as nail enamel
or nail varnish,areas
important'to women,as lipstick. rt has corne
to a stagewherewomen
use shadesaccordiugto the dressesor other
make-upJur"dt to have a
completematch.
The applicationof nail lacquerscoversthe nair
with a water-andairimpermeablemembranewhich remainsfor days
and normally
u"
removedonly by suitabresorvent. So there is
"un as
demandfo. removers
muc! as that of lacquers,as userschangethe colour
or shadefrequentty
to suit their choiceand necessity
From consumers'nebessitypoint of view few
factors are to be
consideredsincerely whire designingnail racquers
and are discussed
oetow(l) Quality requirements
for the lacquers
(2) Its behaviourduring application
(3) Characterof the lacquerfilm
(4) Non-harmfulor non-toxic
Quality of the productis very importantand shouldremainconstant
during
the storagelife. The proiuct shoularemainhomogeneous
Juring
storageand the pigments should not settle at
the bottom. The consistencyalsoshouldbe constant.colour shouldnot
bhangeduringshelf-rife.
t82
183
lo producea smoothfilm the productshouldremainliquid enough

lrrr n srnopthapplication. But it shouldnqt ta,kemuch time to dry to
Evorrldamageto the appliedfilm while drying. The lacquershouldbe
tlrll cnoughto apply easilybut not so much thin that it movesquickly
lrr ruril surface. During application,preferably,it shoufdnot have any
llrlrusivcodour.
lrilrn shouldbe continuousand must adhereto the nail surface,and it
rlrorrldnot peeloff. The film shouldbe glossyand must retainthe gloss
urrrlelthe influenceof extemalinterferingfactorssuch as humidity,air,
llglrt,warmoleold, soapand detergentsolutions. The colourshouldbe
llrrrrund mustnot spoil the clothing.
l'hc preparationshouldnot be harmful or toxic to the nail or to the
nrllrrct'rrl
skin surface.
I'lrccharacters
of the film are expectedto be as follows( l) I It shouldbe of eventhicknessfor which viscosityshouldbe
proper and satisfactory.
(2) Uniform colourproductionby usingfinely groundpigments
and wetted by the medium.
(3) Should have good gloss.

(4) Good adhesionto the nail.
(s) Satisfactoryflexibility
to avoid brittlenessand cracking.
(6) It should form a non-tacky surface.

(7) Quick drying character.
(8) Long maintenanceof the film character.
A good nail lacquer should, in overall, fulfil the following characIr 't'.
( l)
(2)
(3)
(a)
It rnust be innocuous to tfie nails and skin.

It must be easy and convenient to apply.
Product should be stable on storage.
The product should produce a good and satisfactory film.
I ollrposition
Modern nail lacquers contain the following important ingredients( l) Film fbrmers
(2) Resins
(3) Solvents
(4) Diluents
(.5) Plasticizers
(6) Colours
(7) Pearlescentpigments
(8) Others
(1) Film forming substances : The common firm former
for nail
lacquers is nitrocellulose or ceilulose nitrate. 'fhough, over
the years,
several other substancesare being used, but still nitrocellplose
remains
as the most preferred film former. The other film formers
used arc
cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, ethyl ceilulose,
methacryrate
and vinyl resins. But none of these materials has been found
to be as
good as cellulose nitrate.
Nitrocellulose film is better in terms of hardness,toughness,
resistance to abrasion and low solvent retention capacity.
Films or'
nitrocellulose are waterproof and stable to atmospheric conditions.
Nitrocellulose is available in various grades and only low
viscosity
grades are used for lacquers. Use of special grade
nitrocellurose
prevents discoloration of nails. when used alone, it produces
film of.
poor gloss, brittle due to shrinking and poor adherenceto
most surfaces.
To overcome these problems normalry modifiing resin is incorporated
Nitrocellulose is marketed dampened with ethyl or butyl
alcthol to
reduce high inflammability.
(?) Resins : Resins are incorporated in nail lacquers to give
the film
more body, gloss, depth and adhesion. It also helps in
dispersing
insoluble pigments and lakes. Though initiaily natural resins
such as
gum damar, benzoic resin, gum copal, gum elemi,
shellac etc. were
widely used but they have now been replaced by svnthetic
resins.
Amongst synthetic resins, sulphonamide-formaldehyderesins
are presentlv used most. The polymer made by mixing equimolecularproportions
of formaldehyde pnd p-toluene sulphonamide brings e*"eil"nt
glorr,
depth. adhesion, and resistanceto water. Two such commercial products
of the aryl sulphonamide-formaldehyde type are santolite
MHp and
santollite MS 80%. The first one gives an harder film and the
latter
imparts greater flexibility and gives high gloss and good flow properties.
But, they also cause allergic reactions more frequentry
than others.
other synthetic resins which are also used occasionally include
alkyl
resins, polystyrene, polyvinyl acetate, polyacrylic estei,
epoxy ester.
coumafone indene polymers. and copolyr-nerof vinyl acetate anri
vinyt
chloride.
I i r l fi
N A l l . LA QU E R S A N D R E MOV E R S
Solvent(s) should evaporate leaving behind a continuous,

lrlvtrrt
hrrlrclrrt:irble,hard film. The selection of solvent to be used in lacquer is
trrlr()rlrnt and the mixtur6 is to be so balanced that the rate of evaporallrr l)rcvontschangeswhich causeprecipitationof nitrocellulose. Though
rllir k cvaporation is needed but too rapid evaporation may make distrihutirrnon the nail ,imiossible or troublesome. Knowledge of boiling
lrrrirrlol' the various solvents is important. By mixing middle boiling
lrrrlrrtsolvcnts such as alcohols, acetatesand aromatic solvents the rate
nl cv:rlloration can be retarded" Judicious selection of mixture of
lrerlirrrrr.high, and low boiling' solvents is an important criteria for
mnlirrg a good lacquer. Liquids with boiling points up to l00oC are
leurrcrlas low and with boiling points between 100-150oCas medium
,rl,l rvilh boiling points over l50oC as high boiling point liquids.
TABLE 16. I
Nail Enamol Solvents and their Boiling Point
,\, tlt'<'nt
Roiling
Point
Solvenl
Boiling
Point
35"C
46"C
Diethyl carbonate
126"C.
t r r r l r r rr lri s u l p h i d e
Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether
134'C
l r l r 'l l r y li t c e t o n e
500c.
Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether
135"C
55'C
Ethyl lactate
I 35"Cl
)b " L
Xylene
I 38'C
68"C
70"c
77"C
78"C
80"c
80'c
92"C
g6'c
Amyl propionate
140'c
Isoamyl acetate
Butyl propionate
140'c
145"C
Cyclohexanone
154"C
E,thyleneglycol lsopropyl ether
159'C
i-Iexalin
160'c
Methyl cyclohexanone
160'c
Furt"ural
162'C
99'C
I l0'c
1l0'c
I l0"c
I tr3"C
120'C
I 25'C
Diaeetonealcohol
164'C
\r r 'l r l ttt:
lrl,-tlrr,lircetate
h l r 'l l r r 'lc t h y l k e t o n e
I rr lron I'ctrachloride
Itlryl :rlcohol
l '. u p r o l r yal l c o h o l
llr tllCllO
l ',1;rropy I acetate
l l rrl yl l ormate
Itl rr'l propronate
ri l rtrl V l i tcetate
Iol rrctte
,\rrryl l i rrmate
(3) solvents : solvents are.

voletile *rga.nic riquids thar
'ormairy"
combirre all the ingredients of lacquer
an'.jmakc r horriogeneor,,s
viseous
preparation. Ndrnlally rnixture clf sol'ents is preteried
r:ver srr:rgkr
185
Itrl vl i rl t:ohol
:\rrrr'l rtl cofrol
\rrrr'l i tccti ttc
' Methyl hexalin
165"C
Hexalin acetate
183"C
Ethyl oxalate
I 85"C
Butyl lactate
I 85"C]
Glycol diacetate
l l l 60('
Cyclohexanonephthalate
186
I Ir Ir'
N A II, I,A QIJE R SA N D R E MOV E R S
t87
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S
The solventsystemshouldbe selectedsuchthat it should

(a) Dissolveor disperseall the ingredients.
(b) Producea proper viscosity.
(c) Maintainthe quality during storagelife.
(d) Evaporatein such a way that leavosa good film and
also
makesapplicationeasy.
(4) Diluents : They ars not exactly'sorventsbilt are organic
sorvenrs
miscible with nitrocellulosesolvents. Diluents are incilrpc,rated
fi,
multiple purposes.
(a) To build and stabilizethe viscosityof the lacquer.
(b) To help in solubilizationof incorporatedresins.
(c) To lessenthe effect of freshryappriedenamelon
a previously appliedlacquerfilm.
(d) To lower the overall cost of the product.
The variousgroupsof sorventsusedare alcohors,aromatichydrocar-bons,
and aliphatichydrocarbons.
The alcohols which are preferably used are ethyl alcohol,
butyl
alcoholand selectivelyusedalong with their estersas main solvents
rike
butyl alcohol with butyr acetate. This group of sorventsare
arsocalled
as 'latent solvents'and they increasethe effectiveness
of principaror
activesolventin combinationwith them.
To keepall the ingredientsin solution,thereis a limit of the
amount
of diluent solvent which can be accommodated
by the active solvent.
This limit is expressedby toleranceratio or dirution ratio.
This is
definedas the maximumdiruent/sorvent
ratio which can be toleratedby
the nitrocellulosesolution without precipitatingthe nitrocellulose.
As
the viscosity of the product is increasedby the increase
in diluent
volume,closerthe diluent/solventratio to the tolerancevalue
higherthe
viscosity.
while selectingthe proper combinationof diluent with sorvent,
the
diluent shouldevaporateat fasterrate than the solventor
solventmixture. This will preventthe precipitationof nitrocelrurose
as diluentl
solventratio will decrease.This wilr avoid a harsh,rough
and croudy
film and producea srnooth,crearand continuousfilm. a higl,
boiring
point diluent will make a brighterfirm. For matt films
highr-yvoratire
solventsand diluentsare used.
Apirrt lionr alcohols other diluents used are benzene,xylene, toluene.

tirlr'r'rrl:; with strong and unpleasant odour are avoided. Also they
al rrrrrlrrol
rl ' bc i rri ta t ingi
\
(1) I'l:rsticizers : A suitable plasticizer is most important component
rr,rrl
l;rr.:t;uers.
Nitrocelluloseor other film formers alone, normally,
',1
rrrrhl ir rltrll and brittle film which can easily flake off the nail. IncorpotrtfIrrr ol-:r plasticizerimparts the requiredflexibility, gloss, adhesionto
rlre rrirrl irrrd reduces its tendency to shrink. It also has effect on
rlnr u,.rly irnd the volatility or rate of drying. Palsticizersshould be nonlrlirlrle lrnd miscible with film former, solvent and the other constituents.
It rlrould be colourless,ddourlessand non-toxic. Functionwisethey
r ,lr lr(' Placed into two categories:
(a) Solvent plasticizers,which also act as solvent for film formers.
(b) Non-solventplasticizers,which only act as softener.
I lrr' lrrltcr alone may not give a good film, so a combination is taken,
lr.r.rlrly
A good plasticizershould have the following characters11r
(l) Miscible with other ingredients
(-2) Non-irritating and non-toxic
(l)
Low volatility
(,1) Improve the flexibility, gloss and adhesion

( 5) Should not destabilize the preparation
(6) Should not discolourthe product
(7) Colourless,odourlessand stable
1[i) Improve the viscosity of the preparation
llrr' lrlasticizersare, normally, used in 5o/oof the total mixture or 25
t,r 10",,ol'the film formers.The plasticizersused successfullyare dibutyl
n-butyl stearate,resorcinoldiacetate,castoroil, triethyl citrate,
lrlrtlr,rl,rrr'.
I imrlrlroror urea derivatives,chlorinateddiphenylenesetc. lncorporation
,r,,'lllated monogiyceridesalong with other plasticizersirnprovesthe
'rl
(
l l , rl rrl i tyand l astingpower .
((') Colours : Soluble dyes alone cannot, normally, impart sufficient
rleptlrol-colour or intensity. Also it may colour ad.jacentarea. Thus
pigmentsor lakes are incorporated. Staining of the nail is not
rrr'.r'lrrlrlc
,1,'^.rr.rlrlc.
The lakes shoukJbe resistantto light or to astion of organic
..lrrrri.; arrd be non-toxie, non-irritating. The lalces si-rorrldnot be
,;r.rr.rtcrl
l ry the s0lvenr s,
r 88
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
t h lr' NAll.I.AQUERS
ANDREMOVERS
189
l ,rtrr.rnl I' reparati o n

I lrc basg is prepared separately or diluted from the mother lacquer
rrvnilirhlcin the market. Nitrocelluloseor film former is dissolvedin the
,rrrlvgl'1.ltesin, plasticizer can be dissolved directly or may be dissolved
Iri rr srnrrllarnount of solvent and then may be mixed with nitrocellulose
qllrrlion. Dispersed pigments are also available readily in the market.
i lrc pigrnentsare first dispersedby milling in a suitable vehicle and then
irrrorporatedin the base. Alternatively, the milled dispersionis convcrlctl into coloured chips. The boloured chips are dissolved in the
Irrtt;rrt:rbase and blended to prepare suitable shades" Also concentrated
r llorrrs are available, which can be suitably diluted and blended with
l t,t',t'
For m ulaI
Synthetic nacreous pigments are either obtained from
mica flakes or
platcletscoatedwith bismuth oxychloride or titanium
dioxide. Synthetic
nacreouspigments are cheaperthan natural products.
(8) Perfume (others) : This is added basically
to mark the odour ol
the other ingredients. The perfume need not
be strong. Normally
synthetic perfumes are preferred. But it should not
destabilizethe colour
or product.
Application
Application techniqueof nair lacquersis very important
to get good
effect' The nail lacquers can be appiied differently. pres"ent
day
products are mainly applied directly, several times,
to iet a good, even
and firm coat.
But to get more attractive appearance,sometimes,the
whole application is done stepwise. First a basecoat is appriedprior
to the application
of coloured nail enamel" This is b crear concentrated
racqueibase an.r
forms an even surrfaceand helps the distribution of
subsequentafprica,
tion properly. T'he' the corouredlacquer is applied.
Finaily a top coar
or hardelreris used o'er the coloured lacquer. This is
basicairy ct"o,
lacquer base with lerssplasticizer but rncireresin.
"
Sometintesfor 14ulckdr3,isl1'
;rn aerosoi spra1,is applied, rvhich evapo.
rates the solvelir{iar:lr,l-
Nitrocellulose
Resin
Plasticizer
Solvent
Colour
Perfume
16.0gm
9"0 gm
4.8 gm
60.5 gm
0.5 gm
q.s.
l)i:;solveall the ingredientsin the solvent gradually.

Fo r m u l a 2
Nitrocellulose
Dibutyl phthalate
Polyvinyl acetate
Methylene chloride
Diethyl glycol monomethyl ether
Ethyl alcohol
Perfume oil
Colour
7.0 gm
5.0 gm
8.0 gm
29.4 gm
28.0 gm
2.0 gm
14.0 gm
6.0 gm
0.5 em
For m ula3
Nitrocellulose
Dioctyl adipate
Triethyl phosphate
Camphor
,Acetone
Colour
13.0 gm
13.5 gm
5.5 gm
3.0 grn
3.0 gm
35.0 gur
0.4 sm
190
I h 16 NAIL LAQUERS
AND REMOVERS
Formula 4
Nitrocellulose
Plasticizer
Polypropyl methacrylate
Butyl acetate
Ethyl alcohol
Toluene
Colour
4.0 gm
4.0 grn
18.6gm
23.9 gm
25.6 gm
23.4 gm
0.5 gm
Lacquer Removers
These products are also called nail cleansers. They are totally
different from other cleansers,such as hair, skin and teeth cleansers,as
nail cleansers are required to remove only nail lacquers whereas others
are used to remove greasy materials, dirt, dust, etc. As nail cleansersare
required to be applied on a smooth and highly resistantsurface, composition can be different. These preparations rarely come in contact with
the surrounding skin, which is not so in the case of other cleansers. So,
the chanceof damage is much Iessthan shampoosor other cleansers.
Basically all lacquer removers should contain solvent or mixture of
solvents which can dissolvethe nail lacquer. An ideal lacquerremover
should have the followins characteristics-
lo solvent are butyl, propyl, amyl alcohols, monoalkyl ethers of dihydric

rrlcoholslike mgthyl and ethyl ethers of ethylene glycol and monoethyl
rtlicrls of diethylene glycol. They are odourless and less volatile.
Arrolher good solvent which is suggestedby several workers is garnmavtrlcrolactone"
r
lratting agents used to prevent too much drying effect are vegetable
,rils like castoroil, lanolin and its derivatives,faffy alcohols etc.
'l o overcomethe unpleaszint
odour of solvents3-10% of inexpensive
lLrral volatile fragrance can be incorporated. Examples are orange oil,
lcrl)cnes,terpineol etc. which also act as solvents.
Formula5
Butyl acetate
Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether
Propylene glycol ricinoleate
Perfume
Fo r m u l a 6
Castor oil
Diehtyleneglycol monoethyl ether
Acetone
Perfume
brittle.
L---
3.0 gm
15.0 gm
82.0 gm
q.s

Formula 7
(5) It should not have unpleasantand obtrusive odour.

Norrnally the products contain suitable solvent like acetone, ethyl
acetate,amyl acetate,ethyl butyrate or mixture of them or toluene along
with some fatting agents to compensatethe degreasingeffect and not to
leave the nail brittle. The products are made more attractive by incorporating perfume.
'Ihough acetone has an unpleasant odour and
strong degreasing
efltct. still it is widely used due to its good soh'ent cfraracters. Other
solvents,mentioned above, also have sorne unpleasantodour. Estersof
rJibasic acids such as dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl adipate are frequentl),
used as they are odourless or have very faint odour. Liquid esters of'
higher acids like butyl stearats,i56rpropylmyristate are also 6rref"erred
as
tirey are less volatile and odourless. fJther substancesusetlas solvent oi
15.0 gm
80.0 gm
5.0 gm
q.s.
(1) It should not be too volatile to evaporateduring application.

(2) It should not be non-irritatingto surroundingskin.
(3) It shr:uld not leave nails fatty or sticky.
(4) It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails
I9I
Butyl stearate
Ethyl acetate
Butyl acetate
Acetone
Toluene
Perfume
3.0 gm
20.0 gm
20.0 gm
25.0 gm
32.0 gm
q.s.

l ,,vul uati on
l,ikc any other products, the tests for identity ofthe ingredients and
tlrcir irrdividualquantity,checkingof colour shadeare part of the quality
lr";t,. Apart from these,several other tests are required to be done on the
p,'r'|orrrrance
and nature of the products and film produced. Sometimes
tlrt' prodrrctis evaluatedagainsta standardor establishedproduct.
r92
A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
(l) Non-volatile content : This can be done by taking a definite

amount of lacquers and applying on a plate of flat surface. Weight of
the residual film after evaporation of solvent will indicate the nonvolatile content.
CHAPTER17
(2) Drying rate : This can be done by taking the product on a flat
surface and touching the product with tip of finger at short intervals of
time to feel the tackiness. Tirne taken for disappearanceof tackiness is
noted.
(3) Smoothness : This is the character of the film. The hlm is
applied on a surface and the surface characteristics of the fihn are
studied microscopically.
(4) Hardness : This is the measure of the hardnessof film. After
application of the film on a flat surface the hardness in measured by
applying pressuremechanically.
(5) Adhesion : This is the measurementof adhesion characterof the
film with adhering surface. This is done by applying the film and then
measuring the adhesion character by trying to remove the film mechanically and the fbrce required for that.
(6) Abrasion resistance : This quality is studied by applying the
film on a surface and then a mechanicar abrasive effect is uffti"o. rn"
surface characteristicsof the film are studied before and after abnasive
effect.
(7) water resistance : This is the measurementof the resistance
towards water permeability of the film. This is done applying a continunus film on a surface and immersing it in water. The weights before and
after immersion are noted and increase in weight, is calculated. Higher
the increase in weight lower the water resistance.
(8) viscosity : This is arso an important character and can be
measured by any viscometer. It can simply be measuredby the flow of
lacquers from the applicator brush and comparing it with a standard or
good commercial product.
(9) stability : Stability study of the product as well as colour is also
very important and essential. This can be done by acceleratedstability
test.
" Auxiliary Products for Nails

Ar rrrcntionedin the chapter on nails, various products are available in
tlrc nrarket for the care and beautification of nails. Nail lacquers and
rtsnr()vcrsare having the largest share of them. But there are other
prrrrlucts
which are used for various other purposesand care of the nails.
All llrcse products have been put under auxiliary products and are
here. They are-'lr.iclrssedseparately
(l) Nail creams
(2) Cuticle softenersand cuticle removers
(3) Nail bleaches
(a) Nail whiteners and nail strengtheners
All these products are used for specific purposesand to maintain the
lrr'rrltlrand appearanceof the nails.
l l ) N ui l C reams
('ontinuous and frequent application of nail lacquers and ordinary
rr'ruovcrs may make the nail brittle. This can occur due to strong
,lrgrcirsing effect of the solvents of the lacquers and removers. Due to
.rrcssive removal of fatty substancesfrom nail surface the appearance
,' l l l rc nai l become sdull.
Srr, to overcome this brittleness and to maintain the normal health of
tlrc rriril and its appearancegood and shiny, some preparationsare used.
t hrc suggestionwas to apply olive oil after washing the nails by warm
rvnlcr. 'l'his normally takes a few weeks'time to achieve the intended
t'l l e cl .
Altcrnatively, an emollient cream can be used to supplement the oil

iltrl l() rotain the moisture content. These preparations mainly contain
lrur()linlurd its derivativesor other oily substancesalong with a humectant.
I lrc prcparationscan be lanolin based,absorption base or beeswax-borax
l';rrctl t:nrulsion creams. Cholesterol also has been reported to assist
rrrrl uri rl
cl i rsti ci tyof t he nails.
' Ihcsc creams are recommendedto apply once a day or three times a
rr,'r'k llicr washing the nails with warm soapy solution and then drying
193
194
A nANDBooK oF cosMETrcs
before going to bed. Suitable perfumes and preservativesare also being

incorporated.
FormulaI
Beeswax
Ozokerite
Montan wax
Mineral oil
Cetyl alcohol
Borax
Aluminium stearate
Water
Perfume
Preservative
15.0gm
2.5 gm
2.5 gm
40.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.5 gm
10.0gm
26.5 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Melt all waxes and oils in a container at 75oC. Dissolve the

preservative in water and warm to same temperature. Mix the water
solution to first mixture with continuous stirring. Add perfume at final
stage after cooling the mixture to about 45oC.
(2) Cuticle Softeners and Cuticle Removers
The cuticle is the thin fold of skin that extends over the lunula at the
base of the nail. Cuticle is formed by the extension of a portion of the
stratum coreum of the nail root by cornification of the skin at the place
where skin adjoins the nail. It becomes unpleasant looking due to its
irregular growth. Therefore preparationsare used to improve its appearance. However, this can be removed by cutting but that process is not
satisfactory.
Some preparations are available to take care of cuticle. They can
soften or remove the cuticles. The most important product is cuticle
removers.
Cuticle softenerscan soften the cuticle along with preventing nail to
become brittle and ribbed. The preparationscan be cream type or lotion
type. They contain lanolin or its derivatives or quaternary ammonium
compounds which soften the cuticle to help in mechanical removal.
Quaternary ammonium compounds such as cetyl pyridinium chloride,
stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, soften the cuticle by their
affinity for protein and are used in 3-5%. These substancesalso act as a
bactericidal. Urea can promote the swelling of keratin and softening of
cuticle whereas lanolin or isopropyl myristate gives emollient action. 'Io
make it viscous and to market it in tubes, methyl cellulose or
hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose is incorporated in suitable proportion.
195
I h | / AI,XILIARY
PRODUCTS
FORNAILS
I lrclc is another product called cuticle oils which is used, also, for
'irrltcrrirrllthe cuticle. They are normally made by using oil soluble
lt,lrrrl lirnolin or its derivatives diluted with any vegetable oil or fatty
rr{l rl csl crs.
L'rrticlccreamsor oils, on regular use,loosencuticle and keep it in a
lrcirlllry condition. These preparationsare applied using an orange stick
tippcd with cotton wool, on the cuticle and pressing them backward,
gerrtly, and away from the nail. This improves the appearanceof the
r rrti t' l c.
('uticle removers are used for removal of cuticles by hydrolysis and
rrvrllirrg of the softened cuticles. This is done by using potassium
I ryrlroxide and sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,triethanolamine or
rrrrfrrlu carbonateeither in liquid or cream form. They are used as2-5%o
lrr eillrer aqueousor hydroalcoholic vehicles. To counteractthe irritation
r rrrrsctlby alkali normally humectants such as glycerine or propylene
p.lycolare incorporated. They also prevent the evaporation of water and
in( rcirsethe viscosity of the preparations.
Water-solublegums and hydrocolloids are also used to increase the
vrrt' osi ty. A l kal ine polybasic salt s like t r isodium phosphat e or
tetrusodiumpyrophosphatein 8-10% can also be used in combination
tvilh 2-3o/osodium lauryl sulphate or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate.
I hcy have milder action but are less effective. Perfume and preservatrvcs ilre to be incorporatedaccording to the need and choice. Care must
lx' tlkcn while applying such preparationsto prevent damage to the skin,
rrnil bcd or dermatitis.
CUTICLE SOFTENERCREAMS
For m ula2
4.0 gm
Lanolin (anhydrous)
1.0 gm
Beeswax (white)
95.0 gm
Petroleumjelly
q.s.
Perfume
LOTIONS
Formula3
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 1.5
5.0
Alcohol
1.5
Diethyl phthalate
92.0
Water
q.s.
Perfume
q.s.
Preservative
gm
gm
gm
gm
t96
il
L rq u td l a n o l i n
Castor oil
Perfume.
CUTICLE OILS
Formula4
75.0gm
25.0gm
q.s.
Formula5
Llqurct lanolin
Isopropyl myristate
Perfume
llrr= lrrotlucts are marketed either in solution or in cream forms.

I iearrrl1;rl,r'sllrc application easier. The product can be marketed in
ii*r lrr, l, ,,y:;lcrns. One containing bleaching agent and the other contailirtp ir(r(l or alkali to attain intendedpH of reaction.
.
75.0 gm
25.0 gm
q.s.
For m ula9
I lydrochloric acid (concentrated)
(i l yceri n e
Water
CUTICLE REMOVERS
'
2.0 gm
20.0 gm
78.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
t
potassium
hrd.o*i#.rr,u
Glycerine
propylene
Alcohol
Water
perfume
3.5 gm
15.0gm
5.0 gm
25.0 gm
51.5grn
q.s.
t
Trisodiumohoroh#.ru,"
Glycerine
Sodiumlauryl ethersulphate
Ethoxylatelanolin aeriuut,.uJ,
Rosewater
(3) Nail Bleaches
10.0gm
20.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.5 gm
66.5 gm
These preparations
are used to remove
diffe
:olorationson the nailc
i^ ...L:r_ .,
lr"nt types of stains and
"."r
lhe stainscan be of
vegetables,etc. ,rhe
ink,
stainscun b" removed
lobac;o,
rn
emoved by ei
or
cr reduction
reduction process
either oxidation
pao".r. d"".;;;;;_':"":'j
r1en.^.r;-^
.,
Y"
^_
vrr rrr! nature
-'-'D on.the
rrdrure
"H:"g[J'J:'
jl"::ii,_l&ffi fi ;_il
ff;:::::"i:Jffi
"::
of stalr.
or
stair. Oxidizing
normallvrrqert
normally
Ox
o,o hyi
used are
agents
penoxide, sodium
"..rlflndin*
perborate, zinc
perborate,
other
Other asents
Zinc peroxide.
agents*u,û
:_Il9en
neroyirto
which are ,;; ;;:':^:l:.ll''lt
.are"citric
of ttut
stain
n or bleaching
acid,
acid,tartaric
tarraricacid,
acia. hydroc
r,ra"^lill",T:::yrvat
hJ;";""^":;;^'
acid. :i,', :t.
use, for
f^, achieving
anr-i^,.:__ - ,rochloric
used
rlduction.
0.4 gm
10. 0 gm
89.6 em
Fo r m u l a l 0
potassiumhrd.o*i#.rut"
Glycerine
Water
perfume
preservative
197
A II\II,IA R Y I'R ODU C TS FOR N A ILS
TI, II
Sulphiteswiith dilute
acid are also
llydrogenperoxide(3% 10 vol.)
Arnmonia
ltosewater
I'reservative
73.5 gm
0.5 gm
26.0 gm
q"s.
For m ula1l
Beeswax
Paraffin wax
Mineral oil
Pumicepowder
Borax
Water
Perfume
10.0gm
5.0 gm
46.0 gm
8.0 gm
0.5 gm
30.0 gm
q.s.
l{l NIrll Whiteners and Strengtheners

I lrr";c products are not much in use nowadays. They are presently
rr-,-rlr;lr(,|y,as use of nail lacquershas increased.
l'lirrl wlritenersare used on the outer edge of the nail to produce a
rilrttt'r'tlp',ing. They are used as a thick paste containing either zinc
jelly or
or lilanium dioxide in a baseof either glycerine-tlagacanth
'qrrh'
occasionally
substances
mixture.
Other
beeswax
and
lrilr',lr'unr ielly
rnsrl.;r', whiteners,are kaolin, talc, colloidal silica, etc.
pencils are also available which can be applied easily
l.lorv:rclirys
\\itlrrul rrrcssingproblem of creams. The pencils are normally made of
\\!r\\ ilLtlcrialscontainingtitanium dioxide.
l''l;rilstrc:rrgtheners
are basically used for hardeningof nails, particulrrrlr to trcat dry brittle nails. They normally containastringentsaltsand
,rrr'irrlu('()u:,i
solutionsof chlorides,sulphates,acetate,saltsof aluminium,
rir,urunr and strontium. Also potassium,sodium or ammonium alums
lrr- l\('(f. 'l'he astringentsalts are used ln l-5o/oalong with glycerine or
lcrrcglycol for even applicationand improved penetration. Use of
;,1,r1r1
198
A HANDBOOKOF COSMTiI'I(I
dimethyl or diethylolthiourea solution also has been reported for .irrl

strengthening purpose.
After washing and drying off the nails the lotion is applied witlr rr
brush. The hands are kept downward for few minutes to allow drvirr'
Further application may be made after drying, if required.
CHAPTER.IS
Tooth and Oral Cavity
NAIL WHITENERS
Formula 12
Titanium dioxide
Petroleum jelly
Beeswax
25.0 gm
70.0 gm
5.0 gm
Melt last two together and add titanium dioxide with trituration and
mill it.
Formula 13
Titanium dioxide
Petroleumjelly
38.0gm
62.0 gm
Melt jelly and mix titanium dioxide properly and mill it.
NAIL STRENGTHENERS
\tr u('lure of Teeth and Physiology of Oral Cavity
For m ula 14
Potash alum
Glycerine
Formaldehyde
Menthol
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Formula 15
Aluminium chloride
Glycerine
Solution of formaldehyde (0%)
Soft soap
Alcohol
Water
Alrrrrlcniulceof health of the teeth and gums well is very important for
Irrrrrrrpigood general health. More often than not, health of teeth and
prrrrr,,ol' a person is an indication of his general health. So, it is
nFrr",:iirryto take care of health of teeth and gums. Various preparations
!ilF il:,c(l lbr cleansing and maintenanceof good health of teeth, gum and
r,rirl r'rrvity. The products,termed as dentifrices,are used to keep the
r..r.tlrt'lcan, shiny and to inhibit the formation of unpleasant odour in
rrrlrrtlrirrrd freshen the breath. But before studying such preparations,it
i! rrlx)rtant to study the anatomy of the teeth and physiology of the oral
, rt\tly und also diseasesof teeth, gum and oral cavity.
3.000gm
10.000gm
0.010gm
0.001gm
86.989gm
q.s.
q.s.
Il1:rcroscopically,the tooth can be distinguished into three distinct

lrirt.i {}l liee-standingcrown, the slenderneck which is coveredby gums
rr'rnc(las gingiva, and the root which is embeddedin the jaw. The root
,,1 r'rrr'lrtooth sits within a bony socket called an alveolus.
Pulpcavity
E namel
Crown
Dentin
Gingiva
5.0 gm
10.0gm
0.1 gm
1.0 gm
5.0 gm
78.9 gm
Gingivalsulcus
Cementum
Periodontalligament
Root canal
Evaluation
Alveolarbone
Tests for identification of individual ingredients and their weight are

essentially to be done. Also stability of the products, rheology, film
characters etc. are some tests which are required to be done depending
on the type of products. Some of these tests are similar to nail lacquers.
Apicalforamen
Branches0f alveo!ar
vesselsand nene
Fig. 18-1 Schematiesectiona!view oftootkr

t9 9
200
A HANDBOOK OF COSME'I'I('S
A sectional view through an adult tooth is presentedin Fig. rg"r

The bulk of each tooth consists of a mineralized matrix material callctl
dentin. This material is similar to that of bone but the only difference is
that it does not contain living cells. Instead, the cytoplasmic processcs
extend from cells in the central pulp cavity into the dentin. From tlrc
root canal, a narro!!'tunnel located at the root, blood vesselsand nervcs
are supplied to the pulp cavity. The blood vesselsand nervesenter int.
the root canal through the apical foramen to supply the pulp cavity.
The periodontal ligament, which is made of collagen fibres, extends
is very similar to bone. It is less resistant to erosion than dentin. Thc

exposed portion of the tooth is called crown. The boundary betweenthc:
root and the crown of the tooth is marked by the neck. The neck of each
tooth is surroundedby a shallow gingiva sulcus. The mucosa of thc
gingiva sulcus is loosely bound to the tooth. This epithelial attachmenr
of the tooth is important for preventing bacterial access to the lamin.
propina of the gingiva and the relatively soft cementurn of the roor.
Brushing and massagingof gurns stimulate the epithelial cells and makc
the attachment stronger. Breaking down of the epithelial attachmerrr
causesbacterialinfection of the gingiva and is called gingivitis.
The de'tin of the crown is covered by a rayer of a material called
enamel consisting of calcium phosphate in a crystalline form. Thc
enamel is the hardest biologically ma'ufactured substance. For thc
formation of strong and resistant enamel coating, sufficient quantity or
calclum, phosphate and vitamin D are essentiaily to be taken durins
childhood.
From cosmetic point of view only the visible and exposed parts or
the teeth are important. These are crown, neck and gum or gingivu.
Enamel of the crorvn is most important for that.
The saliva is an integral part of the environrnent of oral cavity a'rl
teeth. Knowledge of saliva is important for rnaintenanceof good healtl,
of oral cavity. salivary glands produce i.0 to 1.5 litres of saliva ear.:rr
da)'- water is the main constituent and is about 99.4v* Renraini'g
0.6%r mai'ly consists of several electrolytes,buffers, glycoproteiris
rnainly Na+, cl- and HCo3-. I-ulxicating action of the sallva is due lqr
the presence of glycoprotein called mueins. Saiiva is a mixture ol
( 'lr-l8 TOOT'H
ANDORALCAVITY
201
glandular secretions and is secreted 70Yo from submandibular salivary

glands, 25%o from parotids, and 5Yo from sublingual salivary glands.
('ontinuous sdcretion of saliva flushes the oral surfaceshelping to keep
tlrcrn clean and wet. Buffers present in the saliva maintain the pH
:,ligfrtly acidic, close to 7.0, and thus prevent the build up of acids
;rloduced through bacterial growth. Saliva also additionally contains
irrrrrrunoglobulins(Ig A) and lysozymes that help in control of oral
hircterialpopulation. Any reductionor elimination of salivary secretions
clrrsed by either radiation exposure,emotional distress,or other factors,
tlig,gersa bacterial population explosion in the oral cavity. This leads to
rccurring infections and progressive erosion of teeth and gums. The
sirliva seles several functions during eating.
(1) Lubrication of the mouth"
(2) Moistening and lubricating materials in the mouth.
(3) Dissolution of chemicals u'hich stimulate the taste buds and
provide sensory information about the material.
(4) Initiating the digestion process of complex carbohydrates,
before swallowing, by the amylase enzyme present in the
saliva.
'l'he surfaceof the normal sound tooth is smooth. The gingival tissue
rllorrgly enclosesthe neck of the tooth. Continuouslycirculatingsaliva
tcnroves the remaining food materials adhered to or between the teeth.
Arry hard ingredients present in the food rnaterialsalso polish the dental
',i l r l :rceS .
l l rnl al P robl ems

l)cntal problems can be of various types and require care. Some
lrroblcrnscan be taken care of by cosmeticsbut some need medical care
arrrlrrrcdi ci ne.
I ooth decay is caused by the aetion of bacteria that inhabit the
rnnutlr A sticky rnatrix material is produced by bacteria adhering to the
',rr l;rr:cso{ teeth. This materialtraps food particlesand createsdeposits
rr'lrrtlr is called plaque. This organic material, over the tirne, ber;omes
, irlt i[ir:d fbrrning a hard layer of tartar or dental calculus. Caleification
,'( i urs by enz:yrrratic
degradationof calcium rich substancesin saliva
irn(l rc:iulldntfcrlnrationantl depositionof insoluble calciurn eompounds
orr llrt' lcclh. Rernovalof these trard layers is very difficult. N,rrmally
Ilt:rr lirnrurtion occurs at or near gingival sulcus. Brushing cannot
r{ ' rr,} v('tl ri s dcpo sit ion,even in t he ear ly st age.
202
A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETIC]S
The deposited plaque protects the oral bacteria from the effect or
salivary secretion, thus salivary secretion cannot control their srowth.
Bacterial growth over the food remnants produces acids that slowly
erode the surface and structure ofthe teeth. This results in dental caries
or dental cavities. The most commonly occurring bacteria S. mutans.
when reaches and infects the pulp, causes pulpitis. In such condition,
normal treatment is the complete removal of the pulp tissue, particularly
the sensory innervation and all areas of decay. The pulp cavity is therr
packed with altemative and appropriate materials. This processis callecl
root canal.
Normal brushing of the teeth can only cover the exposed surfacesol'
the teeth. so, this can only prevent the settling of the bacteria and thc
entrapment of food. But the bacterial and the food remnants in interproximal space or between the teeth or within the gingival sulcus cannor
be removed by the brush. Daily use of dentar floss to keep clean these
spacesas well as regular stimulation of gingival epithelium by massaging are recommended for maintenance of good oral health. Acids
generated by bacteria and plaque remaining within the gingival sulcus
for extended period of time will lead to erosion of the connections
between the neck of the tooth and the gingiva. As a result the gum
appears to recede from the tooth and leads to periodontal disease. In
addition to these, the bacteria attack the cementum, finally leading to
destruction of the periodontal ligament and erosion of alveolar bone.
These further lead to loosening of the tooth and thus the tooth falls our
or is required to be removed. periodontal diseaseis the most common
cause for the loss ofteeth.
Dental Preparations
To take care of various dental problems and maintain dental health
and oral cavity various preparations are available and marketed. The
foliowing chapters will deal with such preparations. These preparations
are classified as follows(1) Dental Care Preparations
(a) Tooth pastes
(b) Tooth powders
(c) Solid and liquid dental preparations
(2) Mouthwashes
CHAPTER 19
Dental Care Preparations

\l ,rrrrtr' rr:rrrce
of teet h clean and ir r good healt h is essent ialand also
rl l r' )l l :utt l br everyone. This can be achievedby using var iousdent al
' ,11,'|rt'pilr'ationsor dentifrices. Dentifricesare the preparationsusedfor
thc surfacesof teeth and keep them shiny and to preservethe
' 1,,1;11111'
lr''rltlr ol'the teeth and gurns. These ptepafationsmay also expectedto
lr,-l1rirrlribitthe formation of unpleasantodours and freshenthe breath.
llr'Er.rrlrrl
use of dentifriceshelps to preventoccun.enceof tooth decay. A
rk'rrtul
health increasesthe possibility of a good generalhealth.
F",rrl
lrrrlrrrrtance
of cleaning the teeth was probably realizedalong with
tlri' rrctil lbr maintenanceof body cleanliness.. Several old Greek,
ll.rrrirr. Iluddhist and Hebrew literary works mention the use of tooth1t, 1,,, t'lrcw sticks and sponges for teeth cleaning.purpose. Materials
rr'.r'rlrrs ingredients of dentifiices at that time were dried animal parts,
lrerlr';irnd plant parts, honey and minerals. Several items of the early
rrrFrrr'rlicnts
were found to be harmful, destroyirrgteeth, irritating oral
nrrr r)riit. Some of these harmful substanceswere sulphuric acid, acetic
!r' rrl. lcit(l ores,and abrasiveminerals. Over the period of time, various
',trr,lirson these substanceshave helped to identify saf'e and useful
,l rrrlrI I i cc i ngredi ent s.
l)crrtiliices can be either simple cleansing dentifrices or also be
llr'r;r[ctrtic dentifrices. Therapeuticdentifricesare basically cleansing
l'r,'lr;ulllionscontaining, additionally, sorne drugs or chemicals which
,h'(r{':rs(:the occurrenceof dental cariesor help in control of periodontal
rfl'.r'il,r('. 'l-heseare achieved by the bactericidal, bacteriostatic,enzymerrrlrilrilirrgor acid-neutralizingqLralitiesof the drugs or chernicalsused.
llrr'r;1p1.'111ic
dentifrices containing stannous fluoride are widely used
ptorl ttr l s.
l)t'ntili'icesare preparedin paste,powder and to a lesserextent in

l r,l rrtlrrrrcl
bl ock for m s"
243
204
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('I
Funcfions of Dentifrices
Though the primary function of a dentifrice is the cleaning of thc
accessible surfaces of the teeth, but it can have some other frinctiorr:,
also. The expected functions of a dentifrice are as follows(1) Cleansingof tooth
(2) Prevention of formation or removal of dental plaque
(3) Prevention of formation of calculus
(4) Polishing of tooth
(5) Reduction ofthe occurrence oftooth decay
(6) Reduction of periodontal disease
(7) Prevention or reduction of mouth odours and freshening ol
breath
Some commercial dentifrices may be performing all of the abovt'
functions and some may be fulfilling partial functions.
(r) TooTH PASTES

Tooth pastesare most popular, v;riuable and widely used preparatiorr:;
for cleansingthe teeth. It has largestshare ofdental cleansingand cart'
preparations. Though they are expensivethan tooth powders but slill
they are more preferred.
Tooth pastes are preferred becauseof the following reasons(l) Easy to take measured quantity and spread on the tootlr
brush.
(2) No spillage or wastage.
(3) Attractive consistency.
(4) Proper distribution in mouth.
A good tooth pdste should have following characters(l)
It must clean the dental surface properly without arrl

scratches.
(2) Softnessshould be such that it can be easily squeezedout ()l

the tube to spread on the brush, but should not sink into tht'
brush.
(3) The consistency should remain constant in wide range ()l
temperatureduring shelflife.
(+) It should not dry, at least not quickly.
(5) It shoutd not be toxic and should not sensitizebuccal rnerrr
brane.
(6) It should not interact with the container material.
I l r l ',
l )l i N 'IA L C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
205
Irrgrr.rl i cnts
'looth pastescontain several ingredients to fulfil various functions.
lrrpirt'tlicnts of a tooth paste can be classified as follows and are
rli'i(ilssc(lbelow( l) Abrasives and polishing materials
(2) Detergentsand foaming materials
(3) Humectants
(4) Binding agents
(5) Sweeteningmaterials
(6) Flavours
(7) Preservatives
(ti) Miscellaneous or special ingredients such as therapeutic
agents,whitening agents,etc.
( | ) Abrasives and polishing materials : These materials are also
,,rlh'tl ils cleansing materials. Abrasive is the main constituent of tooth
ptlil(-:i or tooth powders. An abrasive should have to be powder and
Irrrrrllrrrt not such that it makes scratcheson the enamel or gum. They
rre lrrclcrably water-insolublebut water-solubleabrasiveshave also been
rupp,cslcdin recent times. Abrasives should not have any unpleasant
trrstr'.srnell and also should not be toxic. Though hardness is the
Irrlrcrt'rrtcharacter of each substance,however it can, to some extent,
al,,rrrlcpcnd on particle size and impurities. Abrasives are responsible
lrl rcrrrovingfood particles lodged in the teeth. They also help to
rFrtovr some stains from the teeth. Normally the amount of abrasive is
,rl,,rrrtlurlf'of total weight of a tooth paste.
I lrc rnaterials most widely used are calcium carbonate, tricalcium
di calcium phosphat e, alum inium sulphat e, m agnesium
1rl rrr..pl 111tc,
lr l!rlltritlrrand others.
('nlcirrrncarbonate(precipitatedchalk) is the most commonly used
4l,r,rlive. This substanceis availablein different grades. They vary in
,lrrrrrly. crystal form, specific surface,particle size. Normally the very
llglrt llriulc calcium carbonateis used in tooth paste preparations. Pastes
lrrprrrt'rl rrsinglighter grade do not harden. Calcium carbonateimparts
qll,rrlirrilyto the preparation. Chalk is the native form of raw calcium
r dl l tl ]l l i tl ( :.
I rilrytlratc and anhydrous dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium phosphate

,rrr,lr rrleirrrrrpyrophosphateare important calcium salts used as abrasives
In t,rotlr pastes. Dicalcium phosphatedihydrate (Ca3HPOa.2H2O)is
rr',rlly rrsc:damongst them. These substancesare mild abrasives. Both
206
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
the dicalcium phosphatesare odourless, tastelessand white. They are

slightly soluble in water. They are used, both, as abrasive and polishing
agent. Tricalcium phosphate [Ca3@Oa)2]is also a tasteless,odourless
white amorphous powder and insoluble in water. It also imparts mild
abrasive and polishing effect. Dicalcium phosphate imparts neutral pH
to the paste whereas calcium carbonate imparts alkaline pH. Thus
preparations containing calcium phosphates have better taste and
enhance the stability of the flavour.
Sodium metaphosphate, a water insoluble substance, has a good
abrasive efTect and used along with tricalcium phosphate. It promotes
th e lus t r eot ' t eet h .
Magnesium trisilicate is a hydrated magnesiumsilicate (2MgO.3SiO2)
and is used along with other abrasivesand polishing agents. It is a fine,
white, tastelessand odourlesspowder and insoluble in water. It acts as a
mild antacid.
Aluminium hydroxide [AI2O3.3H2O or AI(OH)3] is also used in
combination of other abrasives and polishing agents. This substanceis
available as a microcrystalline powder as well as a gel suspension. The
powder has abrasive and cleansing properties.
Calcium sulphate is occasionally used and is a mild abrasive. It
considerably influences the consistency.
I II II'
I)I N IA I, C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
207
1l; Ilulncctants : Humectants,in tooth pastes,preventdrying out of

tlr, prorlrrt:t and imparl some plasticity character to the paste. The
lrrflflfilrl ol'lrumectantsused normally can vary from 5 to ljYo. However,
.!fllllr'litfr(:shigher amount of 30%,or more is used. Actual amount is
rlcrlrlrrl'orr the specific gravity of the powder mass. Substanceswith
hrwt,r :;pqrJilicgravity needs less humectant. Only glycerine, sorbitol
rrril prolrylctreglycol are widely used as humectantsin tooth pastes.
I ll\ r r'riilc irnpartsglossy characterto the product and is the most widely
u,rr,rllrrrrrrcctant.Glycerine also imparts sweetness.Sometimessorbitol
ls lrlclqrcd over glycerine and imparts more viscosity and plasticity than
glr r lrirrc. Sorbitol is also less sticky than glycerine and prevents
E F| rtt;tl i on
of w ater .
t4) llinding agents : Various hydrocolloidsare used in tooth pastes
t,r nnpr'()veand maintain the consistency. They also prevent separation
ll prrstcs.Aqueousdispersionsof the hydrocolloidsare viscous. These
are used in l-2.5o/o. Though, once, starch,liquid glucose
Irr'rfrrrcolloids
rrlrl ,;irrrplcsyrup were used but slowly they were replaced by mucilages
rrf lurirya gum, gum arabic and tragacanth. Gum tragacanth is still a
rrlrlrly rrsed binding agent. The exact amount of binding agent will
rlept'rrrlon the.ib'nsistencywanted. Normally the gum is first mixed
rritlr str(licientquantity of glycerine,alcohol before adding water. This
t'{ rlrrrrclo preventformation of lumps.
Other substances occasionally used are talc, kaolin, zirconium

silicate,etc.
( )tlrcr substances used are mucilages of chondrus or irish moss,

r lullrryrnethyl cellulose,sodium alginate,carbopols,bentonite'veegum'
(2) Detergents and foaming materials : The cleansing action of

the detergentsis due to their lowering of surface tension. They help in
wetting and dispersion of powdered materials in the paste. They also
help penetration of"paste and abrasives into the fine cracks and other
places and thus assisting in removal of food particles and debris. By
their emulsification capability they help in removal of mucus. They also
help in producing foam. Soaps and various synthetic detergents are
mostly preferred.
6l r
T'hough soaps are alkaline in nature but still they are used. Specially
prepared dental soaps are available for use irr tooth pastes. As soaps
may have odour or taste, tastelessand odourlesssoaps are to be used.
((r) l'l:rvours : Flavours are essentially to be incorporated in tooth

1r;r.,t'slirr a long term effect in the mouth. The flavours normally used
rrr.' hlcrrclingof suitable oils which in combination with sweetening
produce a smooth but distinct taste in the product and also leave a
rrp,r'rrl
plr.;r\rnt and refreshing smell in the mouth after use. The flavours most
rurlt'ly rrsccl in tooth pastes are a blending of peppermirrt oil and
',lrtrrrnrinIoil or only peppermintoil. Only the finest quality flavouring
S1'ntheticdetergentsare widely used in tooth pastes. Sodium laurvl

sulphateis one cf them rnostrvidely used. others are rnagncsiumlaur.yl
sulphate,sodium lauryl sarcosinate,
diethyl sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate.
surfactants also lower the abrasive effect of tooth bmsh and abrasives.
(5f Sweetening materials : Sweeteningagent is very important for

t'rrll1 1llss,fs.Saccharinesodium is a widely used sweeteningagent'
t,frrflrlrfr saccharineis used in 0.05 to 0.31ok' The exact amount will
rlr;,t'rrrl 6n the amount of other materials and sweetnessof the other
trrprcrlicnts,like glycerine present. Apart from glycerine, chloroform is
irl,iil rrsodas a sweeteningagent. Alternative sweeteningagent is sodium
r r r lrrrrurtobut due to its toxicity it is banned in several countries.
(
208
I h f H ut;Nl'lrt, (:AREPREPARATIONS
209
I h rnsiorrally several other chemical substancesare incorporated in

krrllr prrslcslirr some specific purpose or function. Pancreatinhas been
uacrl iu rrlrorrl2.0o%for'the removal of tartar withogt any damage to the
krullr cryrrrrcl. Liquid silicones are occasionally incorporated in nonfrrnnrirrgloolh pastesto form thin water repellentfilm, after easyspreading
rivcr lr:cllr and to prevent adhesion of food particles. It has to be
llrrrrrprrlutcdalong with an emulsiffing agent. Silicones are used in
rnrlslrle ;rroportionsand can be used from 0.5-45Yo. Suggestionhas
hcerr rrrrrtlcto incorporate chlorophyll in tooth pastes for deodorizing
ellpr'l irr halitosis, though there is doubt about its effectiveness at the
r.rrrrrr,rrlrltion
of 0.1-0.5% at which it is used in tooth paste.
(8) Misceltaneous or speciar ingredients : These are various

substancesadditionally incorporated in the tooth paste preparations to achieve
special functions. They are listed below(a) colours : They are not preferred much as most of the tooth
pastes are white. But, nowadays, several coloured tooth pastes
are
available to attract the consumers attention or to mask the colour
of
some special ingredient(s) of the tooth paste formulations. Even
multicolour is also used in some products. The colour to be used should
stain removers and whiteners of teeth.

(c) Lubricants : Lubricants, are sometimes, incorporated in tooth
pastes to facilitate the paste to come out or for filling purpose.
Even if
the paste stiffens,.presenceof L0 to 2.0%ro
liquid pur"ffir, irelps to allow
the paste come out without any extra pressure.
Sorlitrrnlauryl sarcosinate,used as foaming agent in tooth paste,also

ar lc ns irrrti-enzymeand bacteriostatand also has anti-cariogenic activillcc At low concentration (0.03%) it only acts as hexokinase inhibitors
hrrl rrl 0.25% it can prevent growth of bacterial flora in saliva. Alkalis
arrrl rrrcl are incorporated to neutralize acid in saliva and to prevent
rlerorrrpositionof carbohydratesand formation of acid. Strontium chlorlrle. is incorporatedin tooth pastesfor the treatment of hypersensitivity.
lt ir wcll known that fluorides help in preventing tooth decay. It has
ireenol.rscrvedthat in certain conditions stannousfluoride combines with
lnnllr enamel and forms an insoluble tin oxide, tin phosphates and
r nluirrrrr{luoride which inhibit acid penetrationand thus tooth decay' In
nnlrrul fbrmulation condition, stannous fluoride or other fluorides
rleprndc and thus an ac.idic pH is maintained for the formulation for
rtnlrilizingsuch substances.
l ' ornrul uti ons
licvoral combinations of tooth paste preparations are mentioned
hehrw lbr a comprehensiveidea.
(ioncral Method of Preparation
'l'lrcse preparationsare preferably made in stainlesssteel mixer conInirrcr, lbr large scale manufacture, filled with slowly rotating blades. It
r irrr bc done in a planetary mixer or similar mixer used for semisolid
prnpalations. Small scale batch can be made in a glass container.
'l'lrc gum is mixed with a suitable quantity of humectant,without any
rvnlcr. fbr proper dispersion. Chloroform or alcohol can also be used for
rlispcrsionof binding agents. Other colloids may be dispersedin water.
h'cscrvative can be dissolved in glycerine or water. Methyl cellulose
slrould be rnixed with cold water, but ethyl cellulose should be dispersed
irr warm water. Other powder ingredients are sifted together and added
210
gradually to mucilaginous mixture with continuous gentle stirring. Then

aqueous media is mixed and stirred further to get the product. Favour
and detergent shouid be added at the last.
In an alternative method the binder is premixed with solid abrasives
and other powders and then poured in a suitable mixer (dough-type
mixer) along with aqueous solution of the humectant, preservative,
sweetening agent and mixing is done. After obtaining a homogeneous
paste, flavour and detergent are added.
TOOTH PASTE
Formula I
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Water
Saccharine
Flavour
Preservative
56.0 gm
1.0 gm
22.0 gm
1.5gm
19.4gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Formula 2
Calcium carbonate
Magnesium carbonate
Magnesium hydroxide
Gum tragacanth
Glycerine
Oil of peppermint
Saccharine
Water
Preservative
44.5 gm
1.0gm
3.0 gm
1.0gm
1.0gm
31.0gm
1.0 gm
0.1 gm
18.4gm
q.s.
Formula3
Dicalcium phosphate
Sorbitol 70
Gum tragacanth
Saccharinesodium
Water
Preservative
Flavour
60.0 gm
16.0gm
1.0 gm
1.0gm
0.1 gm
21.9 gm
q.s.
q.s.
2t1
I h I'r l)liN l Al. CARE PREPARATIONS
Fbrmula4
Tricalcium phosphate
Glycerine
Propylene glycol
Sodium alginate
Saccharine
Mineral oil
Water
Preservative
Flavour
50.0 gm
8.0 gm
t 14.5gm
0.5 gm
0.05 gm
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
24.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
Forirula 5
Stannousfluoride
Calcium pyrophosphate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Stannouspyrophosphate
Flavour oil
Water
Saccharine
Preservative
0.4 gm
40.0 gm
29.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.0 gm
1.5 gm
0.1 gm
269 gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
Formula6
Dicalcium phosphate
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Gum tragacanth
Saccharine
Water
Flavour
Preservative
36.0gm
13.0gm
20.0 gm
1.2 gm
0.1 gm
10.0gm
19.75gm
q.s.
q.s.
(2) TOOTH POWDERS

'l'ooth powders are, structurally, the oldest and simplest preparations
irrrtl lhcy are also the cheapest. Over the years their market share has
lrccn rcduced by popularity and advantagesofpastes, but still they have
Ir r.onsiderableshareof the market and population. The main problerns
212
encountered with tooth powders are floating of powders in air during

manufacturing, formation of cake on storage, and uneven distribution in
mouth. The oldest tooth powder is reported to be camphorated chalk.
More or less every dental care manufacturer also markets tooth powders
alongwith toothpaste products.
Composition
Basically, tooth powders contain the following four ingredienls:
(l) An abrasive
(2) A surfactant or detergent
(3) A sweetening agent
(4) Flavour
(5) Colour (if required)
Abrasives used in manufacturing tooth powders are the same as used
in tooth pastes,such as calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium
phosphate, calcium pyrophosphate, calcium sulphonate, aluminium sulphate etc. Though lighter calcium carbonate is used in tooth paste but in
tooth powders heavier grade calcium carbonate is used. Other ingredients are also selected as in tooth pastes.
The following are some of the formulae of tooth powders which are
prepared by simple mixing.
General Procedure for Manufacture
This is done by simple mixing. First ingredients of small quantity
are premixed and then mixed with other ingredients in ribbon-type or
agitator type of mixer. Flavour can be sprayed on to the bulk or can be
premixed with part of some abrasive and polishing agent and then mixed
with the bulk.
TOOTH POWDERS
Formula 7
Phenol
Kieselguhr
Calcium carbonate(heavy)
Flavour
Colour
2.5 gm
57.5 gm
40.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
First prepare a triturate of the phenol and a small quantity of

kieselguhr. This is then sieved and mixed with rest. Add colour and
flavor, mix and finally sieve once more.
I h lu
2r3
t)l i N l A l . C A R E P R E P A R A TION S
Formula8
Calcium carbonate
Dental soap powder
Flavouring oil
Saccharinesodium
92.8 gm
6.0 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
For m ula9
. Calcium carbonate
Kaolin
Powdered pumice
Saccharinesodium
Flavour i
Colour
76.0 gm
11.9gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
For m ulal0
Calcium carbonate
Sodium perborate
Saccharinesodium
Flavour
Colour
84.0 gm
10.0gm
3.0 gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
q.s.
q.s.
(J) SOLID AND LIQUID DENTAL PREPARATIONS

I lrrrrrglrthese preparationsare not much popular, but still they exist
lr llrt'rrrlrket and have limited use for tooth cleaning purpose.
Solirl dcntal preparationsare basically a tooth powder suspendedin a
,,n,tpl)ilsc and converted to solid shapes. The abrasive materials vary
lri,rlr \0-80%0and the soap is about20-50o/o.They also contain flavours,
and occasionallycolours.
',rrt'r:lcrrcrs
For m ula1l
Dental soap
Calcium carbonate
Glycerine
Saccharinesodium
Colour
Flavour
16"9gm
80.0 gm
3.0 gm
0.1 gm
q.s.
q.s.
llrt' srlap and calcium carbonateare mixed along with glycerine, and
r,tlr,.rrrtl{itivis and then milled and mixed with some water, if necesSarY,
214
I h l ',
l )l N l A t. C 'A R E P R E P A R A TION S
215
to form a soft mass. Then they are made into bars, stick by mechanical
process.
in t'it,t,tcst lras been suggestedin which teeth were brushed for 2 weeks
before and after use with the help of
rrrrrlr onrlilion of teeth was assessed
use of liquid dentifrices is comparatively less than the solid ones.

They are basically aqueous or hydroalcohoric solutions of surfactants
with additional components of thickening agent, sweetener,flavour, etc.
They do not contain any abrasive as they will sediment. So the action ol'
these preparations on dental surface is less but the creansing effect is a
little more.
1rl rnIop' .rrtpl ts.
For m ula 12
Sodium myristate sulphate

Methyl cellulose
Saccharinesodium
Flavouring oil
Glycerine
Alcohol
Water
4.0 gm
4.0 gm
0.1 gm
0.3 gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
85.4 gm
The manufacturingfprocessis basically making simple solution of all

ingredients. The hydrocolloids are first dispersed in part of the solvent
prior to mixing with other ingredients. Flavour is dissolved in alcohol
and then added to glycerine and mixed to the bulk.
Evaluation
Identification of ingredients and estimation of their contents are
essential components of overall quality control and evaluation of dental
care products. The products, tooth pastes and tooth powders, can be
basically classified into foam forming and non-foam forming.
Some other special evaluation tests are as follows:
(1) Abrasiveness : various tests have been designed and reported
over the year, mostly on the set of extracted teeth. The teeth were
mechanically brushed with pastes or powders and then the effects were
studied by observation, mechanical or other means. Abrasive character
normally depended on the particle size. So, study of particle size can
also give such idea.
(2) Particle size : This can be determined by microscopic study of
the particles or by sieving or other means.
(3) Cleansing properfy : This is studied by measuring the change
in the reflectance character of a lacquer coating o.t u poly"rter film
caused by brushing with a tooth cleanser (paste or porvder). Also an
{4) ('onsistency : It is important that the product, paste, should

rrrlrnl,rin tlre consistencyto'enable the product press out from the
,rrtiunL'r'. Study of viscosity is essentialfor this. Rheology of powders
i, rrl,,oirrrportantfor proper flow of the powders from the container.
(5) pll of the product : pH ofthe dispersionof 10% ofthe product
irr rr,rlcr is determinedby pH meter.
(0) l'oaming character : This test is specially required for foaml"nrinp, tootti pastesor tooth powders. Specific amount of product can
l,c rrrixcd with specific amount of water and to be shaken. The foam
tlrrrr lirlrnedis studiedfor its nature,stability, washability.
(7) Limit test for arsenic and lead : This is very importantas these
rrl' lrighly toxic metals. Specific tests are there to estimate these two
lrr,trrls. However, if the raw materialsare tested for the limit of these
trro rrrclals.productsmay not have excessof such metals.
(lt) Volatile matters and moisture : A specific amount of the
lrrrrlue:trequired to be taken in a dish and drying is to be done till
| {lt\tiult weight. Loss of weight will indicate percentageof moisture
,rrrrlvolatile matters.
1r)) Effect of special ingredients : Special tests should be done for
tlrr'spccialingredientsif any, like antiseptic,enzymes'etc. For each one
.,;rt'e
i:rl and specifictest are to be done.
I l r J{l
CHAPTER-20
Mouthwashes
These products are not discussed along with tooth pastes
or tootrr
powders, as there are definite differences between the two
catesories or
products, both functionwise and compositionwise. The
main fuiction ol
tooth pastes and tooth powders is cleansing whereas mouthwashes
arc
basically deodorants and antiseptics. But, it should be mentioned
herc
that all tooth pastes and tooth powders also act as deodorants
as they
help in the removal of food debris which causes mouth
odours o'
decomposition in mouth by oral bacteria. If any bacterioside
is arso
present in tooth pastesthey help in inhibiting bacterial
activity. As mosr
of the tooth pastes coXtain fragrance, they also help in
masking thc
unpleasantodour of the mouth. Similally mouthwashes apart
from their
,
main function of deodorantsand antiseptics, can also help
in cleansing
by removing water-solubresubstancesor loose debris from
the surfaces
or between the teeth or from oral cavitv.
A good mouthwash should have the following characters_
( l) Good and quick antiseptic action at the dilution
it is used
(2) Attractive flavor to impart a odour to the mouth
(3) Sweet taste
(4) Not much expensive
(s) Non-irritant to mouth and mucous membrane
(6) Non-toxic
Composition
M()l l l l IWA S I IE S
217
l'.r'rr lirurrclrcdin recent past particularly in advanced countries. The

cornponentsof mouthwash preparationsareirrrprr1111111
( | ) Antiseptic or antibacterial substances
(2) Astringents
,(1) Deodorizing agents
(4) Drug extracts
(5) Flavours
(6) Surfactants
(7) Sweeteners
(8) Colours
(9) Vehicle
Srrrrrcof the above components are essential but a few of them are
n;rtrorurland may be incorporated according to the specific requirements
rlil(l larget population.
| | ) An(iseptic Substances .
't lrcseare the active constituentsof most of the mouthwashes. Varirrrr,,substancesare availableto selecta suitableantisepticfor incorporating
irr ;r rltluthwash. The choice of specific antiseptic is made according to
tlrt. nccd and matching with other ingredients. Substancesnormally used
rtr{ l)llenol and its derivatives, hexachlorophene,quaternary ammonium
,,rnrpounds,thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic aqid,
lryrlroxybenzoatesetc.
l'henol and its derivatives : Though there are a large number of
;rlrcnolderivatives having antiseptic properties,only a limited number of
tlrcrrr are actually used in mouthwashes. The non-suitability of others
rrrrry be due to objectionable taste, poor solubility, degradation and
rliscoloration,toxicity, sensitization propeffy and cost. The phenol and
itr tlcrivatives and their concentration used in mouthwashesare phenol
(o l-lok), beta-naphthol(0.3-0.5%), thymol (0.1%), chlorothymol (0.050 l'i{,), hexachlorophene(0.02-0.2%o),
hexylresorcinol (0.05-0.1%),amyl-,
lx,xyl-, heptyl- and octyl-phenols(0.05-0.3%). Normally, phenolic comlrorrndsare more active in hydroxyl form than the phenolate form. Para
srrbstitutedto hydroxyl group are more active than other phenol derivativcs. Aqueous solution, normally, is more active than solutions in other
.rolvcnts. [f water solubility of any phenolic compound is poor it can be
:;olrrbilizedby using a suitable surfactant or solubilizing agent, such as
l w ocns.
Quaternary arnmonium compounds : These compounds have beert
lirund useful as antiseptics in mouthwashes. Some quatemary ammo-
216
218
A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
nium compounds are very good oral antibacterial and deodorant agents.
sometimes these compounds are used along with some other antiseptics,
such as chlorohexidines. The quaternary ammonium compounds are
effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria and normally active at
alkaline pH. one important problem with quaternary ammonium compounds is their incompatibility with other compounds,particularly anionic
detergents,oil of peppermint, methyl parahydroxy benzoates,citric acid,
saccharine, boric acid etc. However, there are some quaternary com_
pounds which are highly effective over a wide range of pH and with
higher compatibility. Such stable compounds are cetyl pyridinium chloride, quarternary morpholinium alkyl sulphates etc.
euaternary
ammonium compounds should not be used in excess, as at higher
concentration they are toxic and irritant to mucosa.
Essential oils : Though they are basically used as favouring agents,
but some essential oils also have antiseptic properties. cinnamon oil,
cassiaoil, clove oil, eucalyptusoil, thyme oil, peppermintoil, anise oil,
oil of wintergreen or main constituents of these oils such as thymol,
menthol, eucalyptol, anethole and methyl salicylate have antiseptic properties.
I h l tl
M( tl r'IIIWA S HE S
2t9
trfrlr..l:rrr(:cs
used for astringent action are zinc chloride, zinc acetate,
clrrrnrrrrrrlrr
srrlphate(alum), all in 0.05-0.2o/o. Zinc phenosulphateis
unFrfllr (l l-(l.l%o concentration. Tannic acid and its derivatives, acetic
ar t'l r rtrrt':rcid,lactic acid are also used in mouthwashesin 0.05-0.5%.
Ins irlr,,'lrolicsolution or aqueous solution containing glycerine and
frlrirr. ol trrrrnicacid havearealso used. Copper iron or manganesesalts
itr nrt rrscddue to metallic taste or staining charactel though they are
4,'l | i l l l i ( 'nl .
1l; l)rorftrrizing Agents

lt r,, nol only the bacterial growth on food parlicles in the rnouth. but
=r\r'r.ll ollrcr factors,as suggestedearlier,r'oniributeto the causeof bad
ltentlr
I'athological conditions of oral cavity, teeth, throat, gastrotrrlellilritl tract, the lungs and nasal passage may cause bad breath.
!s.vr.rccongestionor bough can also causebad breath. However, a local
rrenrtl(: can be taken to achieve <ieodorizingeffect in mouth. Quaterilril|' iililrnonium compounds, chlorophyllin have been found to exert
rleorLrrizing
effect in oral cavity.
l,l) l)rug Bxtracts
Scvcral extracts have found use in mouthwashes. They can act as
rlqtltnllcnts, stimulants or flavouring agents. Extracts which are sugge',tctl to use are tincture of myrrh, an oleogum-resin obtained from the
'rlnrr ol' commiphora molmol or other species, tincture of cinchona,
l','rrloic tincture,tincture of quillaia. etc.
lvliscellaneousantibacterial compounds : other individual antiseptics are clubbed under this category. variety of substancesof different
structures are used as oral antiseptics. Formalin, an aqueoussolution of
formaldehyde (37-4lo/o),is a powerful germicide. Formalin is occasionally incorporated as l%o solution in mouthwashes and further diluted
(1:5) before use. Diluted hydrogen peroxide is also a useful germicide
and used occasionally. Boric acid (2-4./o),benzoic acid,(l-2%) are also
occasionally incorporated in mouthwashes. Iodine liberating substances
are also used as iodine is a good antiseptic. Sodium perborate, urea
peroxide or other oxygen-bearing compounds have also been recommended to incorporate in mouthwashesas antiseptic.
I c ) l'lf,vours
Virrious flavouring agents are available for incorporating in mouthwir\hcs. Peppermint oil, menthol, thymol, aniseed oil, clove oil,
rrrr rrlyptusoil, cinnamon oil, anethole,fennel, methyl salicylateare widely
rr.,rtl. As mentioned earlier some of them also act as an antiseptic.
(2) Astringents
(61 liurfactants
Astringents are being used in mouthwashesfrom a long,time. Astringents are incorporated in mouthwashesfor following various actions:
(a) 'Io shrink and protect inflamed mucous surfaces.
(b) To precipitate proteins of saliva.
t )ccasionally surfactants are incorporated in mouthwashes to have

welling, or detergent,or solubilizing effects. To keep all the ingredients,
Irrrrticularlywhen water content is more, in solution sometimessolubilizrrrg agents may be required. Tweens or other compatible surfactants can
hc uscd. Particularly to keep flavours in aqueous media surfactants help
irr solubilization of flavours.
(c) To dirninish accumulatedmucous secretionsby precipitation.

Astringents are also known to have mild antiseptic property though
not much proof is available.
r h !o M( )ril llw^stlEs
220
(7) Sweeteners
Sugars are not used as sweetener in mouthwashes. Saccharine.or
other synthetic sweetener extracts can be used for this purpose.
are oftencolouredwith vegetable

"';:lT;shes
d!es. The usefur
dyesare saffron,carmine,phloxine,erythrosine.They do not have
effect on the other ingredients and on their action.
(9) Vehicle
This is a very important ingredient as all the constituentshave to be
kept in solution in the vehicle. Alcohol alone or in combination with
water is the widely used solvent. Thus the preparationsare to be diluted
with water in definite proportion, as suggestedon the label, before use.
Dilution with water may have another advantage as dilution with water,
just before use, may lead to the precipitation of flavours and disinfectants. This will lead to better adherenceof the above substanceson the
oral cavity and membrane and thus longer action.
Glycerine is also incorporated in mouthwashes. Use of glycerine has
an added advantage as it is also a sweetening agent with a flavour. It
has also a demulcent and conditioning effect on mucous membrane.
Sometimes a small quantity of hydrocolloids is incorporated to increase
the viscosity.
FormulaI
Benzoicacid
1.00gm
Cetyl triethyl ammoniumbromide 0.60 gm
Resorcinol
1.00gm
Thymol
0.15 gm
Methyl salicylate
0.35 gm
Eucalyptol
0.15 gm
Menthol
0.15 gm
Alcohol
22.00 gm
Water
74.60 gm
Formula2
Tincture of myrrh
Benzoic tincture
Tinctureof iris
Peppermintoil
2.0 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
1.5 gm
'l'hymol
Arrethol
liugenol
Cinnamonoil
sodium
Saccharine
Alcohol,
Water
0.2 gm
0.5 gm
0.2 gm
0.1 gm
0.5 gm
70.0 gm
22.0 gm
'
3
Formula
Anethol
Methyl salicylate
Menthol
Propyleneglycol
Glycerine
Tween80
sodium
Saecharine
Ethyl alcohol
Colour
0.6 gm
1.0 gm
0.2 gm
20.0 gm
30.0 gm
20.0 gm
2.0 gm
26.2 gm
q.s.
4
Formula
Phenol
Boric acid
Tincture of myrrh
Tinctureof quillaia
Glycerine
Roseoil
Peppermintoil
Aniseedoil
Cinnamonoil
Clove oil
Alcohol
1.0 gm
2.2 gm
2.0 gm
10.0gm
5.0 gm
10.0gm
0.4 gm
0.4 gm
0.1 gm
0.2 gm
68.7 gm
Formula5
Phenol
Solutionof sodiumhYdroxide
(3.56%wlv)
Concentratedorangeflower water
Concentratedrose water
Glycerine
Water
Colour
3.6 gm
9.5 gm
2.0 gm
1.0 gm
12.5 gm
71.4gm
q.s.
Formula6
Sodiumpotassiumcopperchlorophyllin 0.05 gm
Peppermintoil
0.06 gm
Spearmintoil
,0.04gm
Sodiumcarboxymethylcellulose r
1.00gm
Solublizingagent
0.50 gm
Saccharine
sodium
0.15gm
Ethyl alcohol
10.00gm
Water
88.20gm
All the above products are required to be diluted
with water before
use according to the instructions on the laber. The
dilution is l:5 for
formulae 2, 4 and 5 but formula 3 can be diluted
by l:0. Formulae I
and 6 are to be diluted by l:l
Evaluation
As mouthwashes are used for specific purposes,
such as antiseptic,
deodorizing action etc. in the mouth, it is necessary
to perform suitabre
tests to determine their effectiveness. The following
important tests
should be carried out apart from common tests
for identity, content,
clarity.
Antiseptic property : Though the antisepticsnormally
_(l)
used are
well known and estabrishedone, but their activity
in pure state is of
Iimited value for the expected antiseptic activity
in the formurations.
other ingredients present in the formuration may
modify the activity. So
it is necessary to carry out separate test for their
activity in formulation,
both lz vitro and in vivo.
(a) rn vitro antiseptic activify : This can
be carried out against
suitable oral microorganisms in a suitabre liquid
media o, aga.-inediu
against a control and determining their effectiveness
against tfi" g.o*tn
of the organisms.
(b) In ,va antiseptic activity : This can
be done by collecting
representative bacterial samples, before and after
the use oflouthwash,
and culturing and countin_gcolonies on agar prate.
The representative
samples can be collected from the mouth by rinsing
with saline solution
or swabbing with cotton and then inoculated
oi agar prate. After
incubation for a required period of time the number
of colonies wiil be
indicative of organisms present in the mouth. By
this process,optimum
time rpquired to keep the mouthwash in mouth
can arso be determined.
I h ,'o
MOIJI Ii WAS H E S
223
(l) l)eodorizing effect : Locar deodorizing

effect can be evaruated
Irr rrr.rrrhby using chemical analysis,surface tension
effects. Instru_
r' errrs rcported t o be used t o m easur e
lever of odour ar e gas
r lrr'rrrirl,graph, fair-werls osmoscopeetc.
Also human olfactory system
I r* rx' rrsedto evaluate odour intensity
and deodorant action. profes_
Elrr'l hrr'an tastersare there,for such
evaluation as used in tea industry,
l l rl rr)l i ndustry.
1'l) Stability study : Stability of the productsand their
components
ql"'rrcctls to be carriedout. Activity
of tire antisepticscan be decreased
rrver rlrr: time. Also stability of the
astringents,flavours, corours.are
irrrr.rlirlt. This can be done by normar stability
study or accererated
ttrrl rrl i tystudy.
('l) other speciar tests : clinicar trials
may need to be qarried out
l.r 111111;15*ushes
as they sometime contain therapeuticagents.
Tests
rtlrir lr rrrc normalry suggested,according
to the need, are effect on dental
r r' lr'". c lJbct on orar soft tissue problems,
cleaning and astringent
efl erts. ctc.
APPENDIX-I
Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act
as Applicable to Cosmetics
A, l)cfinition
('osmetics, as defined in the Act, mean articles meant to be rubbed,
grrrrrrcd,
sprinkled or sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to
tlre lrrrmanbody or any part thereof for cleansing,beautifoing, promoting
rrllnrctivenessor altering the appearance.
ln the last few years the consumption of cosmetics has touched new
lrcip.htsand the curve is shooting upwards and hence the controls sought
Io bc cxercised on the drugs have been extended to a certain extent to
llre cosmetios.
tl . l mport
lror purposesof import, the cosmetics are deemed to be drugs for the
rrrr;rortof which no license is necessary and all rules applicable to
irrrport of such classes of drugs are applicable to cosmetics as welllkrwcver, the import of the following classesof cosmetics is prohibited'
(i) Misbranded cosmetics which contain colors other than those
prescribed or are not labeled in the prescribed manner or make
:
any false or misleading claims.
(ii) Spurious cosmetics meaning cosmetics which are imitations or
substitutesfor other cosmetics or resemble other cosmetics in a
manner likely to causedeception or are imported under names of
other cosmetics or bear names of manufacturerswhich are fictitious or who are truly not the manufacturers.
(iii) Cosmetics not of standardquality.
(iv) Cosmetics containing any harmful or unsafe ingredients.
(v) Cosmetics containing prescribed colors which contain more than
2 p.p.m.of arsenicor 20 p.p.m. of lead or 100 p.p.m. of heavy
metals other than lead.
(vi) Cosmetics intended for use on the eye brows or eye lashes or
around the eyes containing coal tar dyes or intermediates.
(vii) Cosmetic colored with arsenic or lead compounds.
lviii) Cosmetics containing hexachloropheneor mercury compounds.
(ix) Cosmeticswhose use is likely to involve any risk to the users.
225
226
However, small quantities of cosmetics whose import is otherwise

prohibited may be imported if they are meant for personal use and form
part of a passenger,'Esbaggage and are declared tq the customs authorities on being directed to do so.
C. Manufacturing
r
A license obtainable frorir the Licensing Authority is now essential
for undertaking manufacture of cosmetics. The licenses are granted on
payment of requisite fees and fulfilment of other prescribed conditions
and, in general, rules applicable to the licenses granted for the manufacture of allopathic drugs are applicable to these licenses as well.
Manufacture of cosmetics containing hexachlorophene or mercury compounds or misbranded or spurious cosmetics or cosmetics which are not
of standard quality is prohibited. A person licensed to manufacture
cosmetics should fulfil following conditions:
(i) The factory premises should be maintained in clean condition,
should be situated in hygienic surroundings, and should be
distinct and separatefrom premisesused for residentialpurposes.
(ii) Adequate space and staff should be provided and manufacture
should be conducted under the direction and personal superv!
sion of competenttechnical staff at least one of whom should be
a whole time employee and should either hold diploma in phar_
macy approved by the pharmacy Act or should have passed
intermediate examination with chemistry as one of the subject.
However, for small scale manufacturers, employing not more
than 5 persons, a person with general training and experience,
extending over not less than 4 years in the manufacture of
cosmetics, may be deemed to be competent technical staff by
Licensing Authority.
(iii) Either adequatefacilities should be provided on the premises for
the testing of raw materials and manufactured products or suitable arrangements should be made with approved institutions for
the purpose.Records relating to such tests should be maintained
for at least 3 years from the date of manufacture.
(iv) Cosmetics containing colors other than those specif,redby Bu_
reau of Standards or colors which contain more than 2 p.p..m. of
arsenic or more than 20 p.p.m. of lead or more than 100 p.p.m.
of heavy metals other than lead and eyebrows or eye-lashes etc.
containing any coal tar color should not be manufactured. The
use of arsenic or lead compounds for coloring cosmetics is also
prohibited.
tp.lr I
I'H()Vlsl()Ns()l; DRUGSAND COSMETICACT
227
r v I I lrc lrrspcctorsshould be allowed to inspect premises, records

ctt , irrrd to take samples of manufactured products. An inspecIron lrook should also be maintained wherein the inspectorscan
t'rrtcrthcir remarks"
n r) ltct ords of manufacture should be kept as per ScheduleU(I) for
lrl lcast 3 years.
At irr lhc case of drugs, licenses for the manufacture of cosnietics
rFlrrun vrrlitl up to 3lst Decemberin the year following the year of issue
afll !rrnyhc suspendedor cancelledifthe licenseefails to observeany of
rlre rrrrrrlitions,discussedabove. A licensee,aggrievedby this decision
t lrfr rrll)cirl to the State Government within 3 months of suspensionor
can also be manufacturedunder loan licensesas
' lnr r.llulion.Cosmetics
r;i llu' l:ilsc with drugs.
Arryorrc martufacturing any spurious cosmetic shall be punishable
,rttlr irrrprisoYtment
up to 3years and fine. Personsconvicted of manufacrrrrerol' cosmetics in contravention of any other provision are liable to
ilrlrudonmntfor a term up to I year and or fine up to Rs. 1000.
l l S nl e
No license is necessaryfor the sale of cosmetics but the dealers in
r
can sell only such products as do not contraveneany provi',1111s1ig5
,rrrrusof'the Act and the Rules. In case a dealer is required to disclose
tlrr. illune and other particulars of the person from whom he obtained
,,rrtlclics he is legally bound to"comply with such directions.Anyone
rrlrrr lhils to disclose the name of manufacturer or sells any cosmetic in
,,rrlruvcntion of the Act and the Rules may be imprisonedfor I year or
lrrrr:rllls. 500 on first conviction or imprisoned for 2yeats and fined up
to l(r. 1000 on any subsequentconviction.
I hc following classes of cosmetics are expressly prohibited to be
rtockcd, sold or exhibited for the sale:
(i) Misbranded or spurious cosmetics and cosmetics not of a standard quality.
(ii) Cosmetics containing any ingredient which makes them unsafe
or harmful for use under the directions indicated or recommended.
(iii) Cosmetics imported or manufactured in contravention of any
provision of the Act and the Rules.
'l'he inspectors may require a person not to dispose any stock of
r oslnetics.
228
ACT
ANDCOSMETIC
OFDRUGS
'{;rrlrI l'l{()VIStONS
E. Labeling and Packing

cosmeticssold or distributedin India, whetherthey are of Indian
origin or importedfrom outside,shouldbe labeledand packedin accordancewith the following provisions:
229
r,r, lr irnrl cvcry application. The preparation should on no account be

rrtt.rl lpl rlycing. eyebrows or eyelashessince severe inflammation of the
F\ r' or cvcn blindnessmay result,"
\l r l l rol i c l i agrance s ol uti ons
(i) The words: HARMFUL IF TAKEN

INTERNALLY
(ii) Content of Diethyl phthalatein each ml'
Class of Cosmelics
Labeling Part
(On both Inner and Outer Labels)
ri l r l l tr:i r:i ttt-dc-col Ogne

| i l rrl ri l i l i ng di cthyl phthal ate
Cosmeticsin general
Name of the cosmetics and name and address of the

manufacturer. Manufacturing License Number preceded
by the letter B if the cosmetic is packed in containers
having more than 10 gm.
| i l :i l rr'l i c l i l r expOrt
On the Outer Labels

Net contents of the package expressed as weight for
solids and semi-solids, as volume for liquids or as numerical counts, if the cosmetic is subdivided provided
that this statementneed not appear if the contained cosmetic is not more than 60 ml/30 gm.
'rlirlr t'orttaininghexachlorophene
On Inner Label Only

Adequate directions for safe use; warning, caution, or
special directions; names and quantities of ingredients
that Are hazardous.
Nrr/r,: No soap is permitted to contain more than l7o hexachlorophene.
Hair dyes containing

dyes,colors,and
pigments.
(i) Specific requirements,if anY

(ii) Name and address of manufacturerand
n a m e o f co sm e ti c o r a co d e N o .
approved by the licensing authority.
I rrullrpastescontainingfluorides
Contains hexachlorophene;not to be used

on babies
(i) Content of fluoride in p.p.m. (max.1000
p .p .m .)
(ii) Date of expiry.
1,,(' ol ors
l'lrc following colors may be added to medicine and cosmetics
grruvidcdthe common name and the percentageof the color are stated on
tlrt lirbel of the container.The medicines or cosmeticsto which these
( ol()rs are added shall noi b" deemed to be misbranded only becauseof
llrc lirct of addition of colors therein:
With the words'. Cautio,n.This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation in certain casesand
so a preliminary test according to the accompanying
directions should be made. This product should not be
used for dyeing the eyelashesor eye brows as such use
may cause blindness. (Equivalent labeling in local languagesis also mandatorY).
l. Natural colors : Annatto, carotene' cochineal, curcumin,'chlorophyll, red oxide of iron, yellow and black oxide of iron, titanium
dioxide.
Note : If the cosmetic has only one label, all the information required to
be disclosed on the inner or outer labels shall be displayed on this label.
The following instructions in English and local language should
2. Artificial colors : Carmel.

3. Coal tar colors :
t'ttmmon Neme
ttf Colors
accompany the package of Hair dyes.

"This preparation may cause serious inflammation of the skin in
some casesand hence a preliminary test should always be carried out to
determine whether or not special sensitivity exists. To make the test,
clean a small area behind the ear or upon the inner surface of the
forearm using either soap or water or alcohol. Apply a small quantity of
the hair dye as prepared for use to the area gently with soap and water. If
no irritation or inflammation is apparent it may be assumed that no
hypersensitivity exists. The test should however be carried out before
Color Index
Number
Chemical Nqme
( i r'(.on:
(.)uinazarine
61565
1,4-bis(p-Toluino)anthraquinone
61570
Disodium salt of 1,4-bis
( ilcen SS
Alizarin Cyanine
(irccn F
(o-sulfo-tulouino)
lrirstGreen FCF
42053
(irccn S
44090
anthraquinone
230
CommonName
of Colors
Color Index
Number
Chemical Name
APPENDIX-II
Yellow:
Tartrazine
19140
Trisodium salt of 3-carboxy-5-hydroxy_lp-sulfophenyl-4-p-sulfo phenyl_azopyraozle
SunsetYellow FCF
15985
Disodium salt of l-p sulfo-phenyl_azo_2

naptho l-6 sulfonic acid
Quinoline Yellow WS
47005
Disodium salt of disulfonic 'acid of 2(2_

Quinolyl)-1,3 indardoine
Amaranth
16185
Trisodium salt of l(4-sulfo-inaphthylazo)

2-naptho l-3, 6-disulfonic acid
Erythrosine
45430
Disodium salt of 9-0-carboxyphenyl-6_

hydroxy 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-3-isoxanthone.
Red:
Eosin YS Or Eosin G
45380
Toney Red or Sudan IIr
26100
I -p-phenylazo phenylazo-2-naphtho.
Ponceau4 R
I 8255
Trisodium salt of l-(4-sulpho-l-naphthyt_

azo) 02naphtho l-6;8 disulphonic acid
Carmoisine
t47720
Fast Red E
Disodium salt of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo_9_o_

carboxyphenyl-6-hydroxy-3isoxanthone
Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho-l-4sulphonic

acid)
16005
Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho_l_naphthyl_

azo)-2- naphthol-6-sulphonicacid
Indigo Carmine
73015
Disodium salt of indigotin
Brilliant Blue FCF
42090
-5:5-Disulphonicacid
60725
Disodium salt of I phenylazo2 naptho l_6,

8-disulphonic acid
20170
Monosodium salt of 4 p-sulfophenylazo

2(2,4-xylylazo) 1,3-resorcinol
B lue:
Violet:
Alizurol Purple
Brown:
Resorcin Brown
Black:
Naphthol Blue
20470
Dis odium s alt o f g a m i n o 7 _ 5 _ n i t r o

phenylazo-2 phenylazo 2 phenylazo_I _naph_
thol 3,6 disulfonic acid
Most Often Used Ingredients of Cosmetics
Il,-rrtorrilc
t r r l rr u n rc a r b o n ate
| , r l l o r r l a lk a o l i n
t orrrslarch
ltll;'rrc:siumcarbonate
li'lrr;irrcsium
oxide
t rrI iutrr myristAte

I rrlLllllnstearate
I rthiriln stearate
lr'lnpincsium
myristate
ABSORBENTS
Potato starch
Precipitatedchalk
Rice starch
Wheat starch
ADHESIVES
Magnesiumsilicate
Magnesium stearate
Talc
Zinc stearale
AN TIOXID AN TS
Monoisopropyl citrate
,{:r orbic acid
acid
Nor-dihydroguaiaretic
Arcorbyl palmitate
Phenyl alphanaphthylamine
I t t 't i r - N a p t h o l
Propyl gallate
I lrrtylated hydroxyanisole
Pyrogallol
I trrtylatcdhydroxytoluene
( rlric acid
Pyrocatechol
Sodium bisulphite
I trlirurylthiodipropionate
Sodium metabisulphite
| )ntearyl thiodipropionate
Sodium sulphite
.t,'t-di-tert-butylhydroquinone
Sodium thiosulphate
I thyl gallate
( inllic acid
Thioglycerol
Thiosorbitol
llyrlroquinone
Thiourea
lronscorbic acid
Thioglycollic acid
I ct:ithin
Trihydroxybutyrophenone
Mlrlcic acid
llcthional
I lcnz.alkoniumchloride
lhrric acid
llcta naphthol
('umphor
( lhlorhexidine diacetate
( lhlorinated bisphenol
ANTISEPTICS
Hexyl phenol
Heptyl phenol
Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate
Menthol
Mcthyl salicylate
Phenol
231
232
Phenosulphonate
Salicylic acid
Thymol
Tannic acid
Octyl phenol
Chlorothymol
Cinnamon oil
Clove oil
Cresol
Formalin
Hexachlorophene
Hexyl resorcinol
Mos'l Ol-'tEN USED INGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS
h rrolttt
stearate
Mnp,rtcsittttr
l 'r t r r p i t i r t c dc h a l k
l{ tr c stirrclt
COVERING AGENTS
Titaniumdioxide
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
DETERGENTS
ANTIDANDRUFF
Carboxymethyl
cellulose
Chondrus
Eithylcellulose
Glycerylmonostearate
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Isopropytmyristate
Karyagum
Lanolinderivatives
Magnesiumstearate
AGENTS
Thiol-n-oxide
Thymol
Zinc pyridinium
Zinc undecylinate
Cadmiumsulphide
Camphor
Menthol
Seleniumsulphide
Sodiumsulphacetamide
Iron oxides
Alizarin
Alminium hydrate
Amaranth
Carmine
Cochineal
Chlorophyll
Chromiumoxides
Citrusred
Eosin
Erythrosine
Fluorescein
Indigo
Indigocarmine
Iragalitered
Ay,lr ll
Ar vl bcta-aminopropionates
Ar yl pcptides
Ar yl sitrcocine
All.yl cther sulPhates
Arrrnroniumlauryl sulPhate
t'ur'onut diethanolamide
Iticthyl sodium lauryl sulpho.irrccinate
BINDERS
Methyl cellulose
Mineraloil
Polyvinylpynolidone
Soaps
Sodiumalginate
Starch
Tragacanth
Veegum
Zinc stearate
lropropanolamide
coLoRs
lsopropyl mYristate
lropropylpalmitate
lsopropyl lanolate
l,urrolin
Lake red D
Lake red DBA
Lake red DCA
Naptholblueblack
OrangeG
Phthalocyanine
blue
Resorcinbrown
RhodamineB 500
Saffron
Tartrazine
Tetrabromofluorescein
Tetrachlorofl
uorescein
Titaniumdioxide
Ulramarines
Zinc oxide
lauryl sulphate
Mntr',rrcsium
Mctlryl taurides
Morrocthanolamide
('cstostearylalcohol
( 'c l y l a l c o h o l
('()coabutter
( iroundnutoil
Acacia
Agor agar
llccswax
('urboxy cellulose
('cllulose acetate
( lcllulose acetobutyrate
( lcllulosenitrate
('ctostearyl alcohol
llthyl cellulose
(ium copal
(;um damar
(ium elemi
lsopropyl lanolate
Monoethanol laurYl sulPhate

MonoglYceride sulPhate
Sodium alkYl benzenesulPhonates
Sodium cetYl sulPhate
Sodium decYl sulPhate
Sodium laurYl sulPhate
sulPhoSodium di-(ethYl-hexYl)
succinate
Sodium di-tert-nonYl sulPhosuccinate
Sodium octYl sulPhate
Sodium lauryl sarcosinate
Triethanol lauryl sulPhate
EMOLLIENTS
Lanolin alcohol
Lanolin oil
Lanolin wax
SPermaceti
Stearic acid
Wool wax alcohol
Wool wax steroids
FILM FORMERS
Lanolin alcohol
Lanolin oil
Lanolin wax
Liquid Paraffin
Methacrylate
MethYl cellulose
Paraffin wax
PhospholiPids
PolYvinYl PYrrolidone
Shellac
Stearic acid
StearYlalcohol
Tragacanth
A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Karya gum
Lanolin
Vinyl resin
Bismuth citrate
Cadmium sulphate
Camomile
Cobalt sulphate
Copper sulphate
Copper chloride
Henna
Lawsone
Lead acetate
HAIR COLORANTS
Lead sulphate
Nickel sulphate
Ortho amino phenol
4-nitro-1, 2-amino benzene
Paraphenylenediamine
Paraaminophenol
Pyrogallol
Silver nitrate
Reng
Arsenic trisulphide
Barium sulphide
Calcium sulphide
Calcium thioglycol late
Keratinase
Lithium thioglycollate
Magnesium sulphide
HAIR REMOVERS
Rhodamine
Sodium stannite
Sodium sulphide
Stronsilum sulphide
Stronsium thiolactate
Thiglycolic acid
Zinc sulphide
Amino acids
Egg
Herbal extracts
Lanolin
HAIR CONDITIONING AGENTS

Lanolin oil
Lecithin
Oleylalcohol
Protein hydrolysate
HUMECTANTS
Ethylene glycol
Fructose
Glucose
Glucosamine
Glycerine
Mannitol
Polyethylene glycol
Polyoxyethyleneglycerin
Arachis oil
Acetoglycerides
Butyl stearate
Castor oil
Polyoxyethylene
sorbitol
Propyleneglycol
Sodiumlactate
Sodium 2-pynolidone-5-carboxylate
Sorbitol
Triethyleneglycol
Triethanolamine
Urea
OILS
Mustardseedoil
Oleyl alcohol
Oliveoil
Paraffinoil
Ap{r ll
M()sT OF-TENUSED TNGREDIENTSOF COSMETTCS
I o r o t t r t l<l i l
I l1'rlrrrgcrrrtcd
vegetableoils
lrupropyl myristate
IrlpropyI pulmitate
lioproJry||inoleate
I n r r r r l r nr l i l
I ltetlrylschacate
flernrlccyl stearate
t 1il.ilililc
Peanutoil
Propyleneglycol monoricinoleate
Tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol
Tetrahydrofurfurylacetate
Tetrahydrofurfurylbnzoate
Tetrahydrofurfurylstearate
Tetrahydrofurfurylricinoleate
OPACIFIERS
Propyleneglycol
stearate
Titanimdioxide
Zinc oxide
Zinc stearate
l l y r l r o u sl a n o l i n
I llltr)ln)nc
Nlrrgnesiumstearate
lioll's1l't1.t. glycol 400
A l t t u r r t tol i l
h l,rrrrrruth
oxychloride
I lr on butter
( orlor oil
235
PEARLSCENT AGENTS
4-methyl-7-diethylamino
coumarin
4-methyl-5,
7-dihydrocoumarin
Mica
Spermaceti
Starch
I ttlrrrrl.paraffin
A rttlrt'rgris
A rrrylcinnamicaldehyde
llcil/yl Dcetate
I lcrgnrrrot
llurt tlc rose
| ||:lotcttm
t lrrrrunric
alcohol
I llill
I ivel
I rrgt'rrol
I rrrrcsol
t rcrrrtriol
t iuurrium
I l1,.lroxycitronellal
,\ r'cty Iirtcdmonoglyceride
rr llulyl stearate
( 'n t t r l l l t o r
( rr,iloroil
( lrlorinateddiphcnylenes
PERFUMES
Ionone
Lavenderoil
Linalol
Methyl salicylate
Musk
Patchouli
Phenylethyl alcohol
Pineoil
Sandalwood
oil
Terpineol
Vanillin
Vetivert
Ylang-ylang
PLASTICISERS
Dibutyt phthalare
Resorcinoldiacetate
Triethylcitrate
Urea
A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
PRESERVATIVES
Formic acid
Hexachlorophene
Methyl chlorothymol
Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate
Ortho-phenyl phenol
Para-chlorobenzoicacid
Para-chlorometa-cresol
Benzalkonium
chloride
Benzethonium
chloride
Benzoicacid
Benzylparahydroxy
benzoate
Butyl parahydroxybenzoate
Acetyl pyridiniumchloride
Cetyl trimethylammonium
bromide
Chlorobutanol
Cinnamicaldehyde.
Cresol
Ethyl alcohol
Ethyl parahvdroxy
benzoate
Formaldehyde
Androgen
Arachidonicacid
Estrogen
Lanoleic acid
Lanolenicacid
Propyl para-hydroxy benzoate

Para-hydroxy benzoic acid
Phenyl marcuric acetate
Phenyl marcuric nitrate
Salicylic acid
Thiomersol
SKIN NOURSHING AGENTS

Prednesolone
Progestrin
VitaminA
VitaminD
VitaminE
SOLVENTS/VEHICLE
Acetone
Amyl acetate
Amyl alcohol
Arachis oil
Benzene
Butyl acetate
Butyl alcohol
Butyl stearate
Castor oil
Coconut oil
Dibutyl phthalate
Diethyleneglycol monostearate
Dioctyl adipate
Ethyi acette
Ethyl alcohol
Ethyl butyrate
Gamma-valerolactone
Glyceryl monolaurate
Isopropyl myristate
Mustard seed oil
Olive oil
Peanut oil
Polyethyleneglycol
Propylene glycol
Propylene glycol monom)fristate
Tetrohydrofurfuryl alcohol
Triethylene glycol
Toluene
Xylene
SI.TNSCREEN
AGENTS
Kaolin
Linalyl ortho-arninobenzoate
Magnesiumoxide
Menthylcinnarnate
,dnliviray
2-Acetyl-3-bromoindazole
Amyl salicl,late
Benzyl acctophenone
rfir
ll
I\4()s l ()lrlttN USEDINGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS
llerrirI r irirurrrrirlc
l l e r r rl I r r rl l r o i u n i nob e n zo a te
f l r . r t r rI r r r l i c y l u t c
I e l r t r r r r r t r tl l o t r a l e
t r , l r r l r r . x c t r yolr t h o - a m i n o lrrtt:rnlc
I lelrhtrrr
I l t r l r r r r y I b u l a d i e ne
I e rr r l r l i r r
I lht I lrrr|,rr-irnrino
benzoate
I llhFl/nln(:clone
I rihrrlroxy naphthonicacid
.t { rlrlrvdroxybenzophenone
I i l l rn c o l A - 1 0 0 0
I l l l t a q o ll l
lillrelyl sirlicylate
I lnrrrrrircnthylsalicylate
llrlrt,lyl pnra-aminobenzoate
Menthyl salicylate
Menthyl ortho-amino benzoate
Methyl umelliferone
Methyl esculetin
Orth hydroxy biphenyl
disulphonate
Para amino benzoic acid
Paradimethylamino benzoic acid
Parahydroxy biphenyt disulphonate
Phenyl ethyl ortho-amino benzoate
Phenyl salicylate
Sodium 2-naphthol-6,8-disulphonate
Sodium 2-naphthol-3, 6-disulphonate
Stilbene
Talc
Terpenyl ortho-aminobenzoate
Umbelliferone
SUNTAN AGENTS/STAININGAGENTS
I Mlllurxy psoralen
Lawsone
I Ftlroxy psoralen
Erythrulose
Itt hyrhoxy acetone
Olive oil extractof cudbearand hnna
I rrplrrrrc
Walnutiuice
STJSPENDING
,.{GENTS
Guargum
AP- r l t
Hectorite
{ | F .ti l ul c s
I{ydroxyethyl cellulose
llerrtrrrritc
Hydroxypropyl cellulose
t nrlropol
Methyl cellulose
I tr lronlcr
Micro crystallinecellulose
t rrrllr)xymethyl cellulose
Polyvinylalcohol
l rllrrlosepowder
Polyvinylpynolidone
t olhridalsilicates
Pectin
t lroldorus
Tragacanth
I relntin
Veegum
Ar ilr ill
14'hitcbceswax
( rulrhrlliawax
l'ruttntrbawax
('crrsin wax
( frokcrile wax
{'etyl alcohol
237
WAXES
Cetosterylalcohol
Cocoabutter
Lanolinanhydrous
jelly
Petroleum
Paraffin wax
Petrolatum
240
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC,S
5. What
are the advantages of compact powder over free flowins facc

powders? what are the different types of binders that are used
for riakinp
compact face powders?
Aprh lV
241
MODEL QUESTIONS
l4 l.rxrk at the following formula of 'compactface powderr:

Ingredients
Vo w/w
6. while manufacturing pgwders, why is perfume mixed along

with thc
adsorbent first?
Talc
32.0
7 - Zinc oxide with particle size 0.02 m is used as covering agent.

commenr
on this statement.
Kaolin
20.o
Precipitated chalk
25.O
8. Compare titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in terms of covering power

a'd
sun screeningaction.
Zinc oxide
l5. 0
9. A female with dry skin has a wound on left leg below the knee. Shc
applied ralc on wound immediately availablein the house. Do you
supporther action?Justify your answer.
10.Is covering power of a face powder affected by the degreeof oiliness or
skin? IIow would you correlatethe two?
Iron'oxide
q. s.
Perfume
q. s.
Soap (binder)
8. 0
(il) Prepare a flow chart clearly indicating the procedure you would
' adopt to manufacturethis preparationby damp compressionin an
industrialunit.
(b) Changethe aboveformula to make it suitablefor a dry and rough
skin full of minute scars. Justifv.
lhby Powders
ll
Why are colouring agentsand strong perfumesnot incorporatedin baby

powders?
l fr
,lrrstilythe statement:Only sterilizedtalc should be used in baby powrl crs.

('urr the following formula be usedfor making baby powder?If yes/no,
;rrsli l ' y.
12. A personis sufferingfrom 'prickly hear' (strophulous)mainly distributecl

on the face, neck and back. come up with a customizedformula of a
preparationsuitablefor this condition. Justifyyour choiceof preparation/
formulation,ingredientsand the proportionsin which you plan io incorporate them.
ll
13.which of the follorving formulationswould be more appropriatefor a
woman with oily face or will either of them work equally well? Justify
your answer.
Ingredients
Talc
Ingredients
Formulation-l
Formwlation-2
Talc
6 3 .0g
20.0 g
Kaolin
20.0 g
20.0 g
5 .0 g
39.0g
Calcium carbonate (light)

Zinc oxide
5 .0 g
Zinc stearate
5 .0 g
Magnesium carbonate
l .o g
Colour
O5
0.5 g
Perfume
O5
0.5 g
Calcium carbonate
Zinc stearate
Boric acid
I-avender oil
(lolour
15.0g
r6
5.0 g
Vo w/w
?0.0
25.O
4.0
0.3
0.7
0.5
Yrnr lrirvc beerr recently appointed as a 'Formulation Development Exhy Amcos Ltd., which targets at becoming a specialized
-,ulrv(''
lmrrrrllcturing firm for baby products within next 2 years. The company
lr l)r()l)rlsrngat using the following formula for making a 'baby powder'
I l l f,l ) nr i r l l ( ) n:
Ingredients
Talc
Starch
Titanium dioxide
Olive oil
Iron oxide
Perfume
Propyl paraben
Methyl paraben
Vo wrTp
A;rrlr lv
MODEL QUESTIONS
243
fr What is the role of lubricant and temperature while pouring lipstick
nrixturcin mould?
69.8
20.0
6.0
2.O
1.0
1.0
0.1
0.1
As a new experiencedenaant in the firm, give recommendations/suggestions on the currentproposedformula (with respectto choseningredients&
proportions). If you find the existing formula appropriate,.lustify.
If not,
make necessarychangesand justify the same.
Ch. 4
Lipstick/Coloured Make-up
l. What is the role of waxy materialsin lipsticks?
2' what is the most important criterion to be kept in mind
while preparing
lipsticks?
3. can the baseingredientsusedin lipsticks have melting point

in the range
of 36-38oCor not? If yes/no,justify.
4' Among different waxes given below, write the order
of mixine for
preparing lipstick: white beeswax,candeilrawax, carnuaba
wiu(, cJresin
wax, cetylalcoholand cetostearylalcohol.
5.
of 45_yearsage is using a new lipstick from past 3 days.
On
thw:mT
4"'day it startedcrumbling. Explain the probable,""roo .
6' what happensif an antioxidant is not used in formulation
of ripstick?
List some antioxidantsthat are used while formulating lipsticks.
7. As a pharmacistseeing the below given formula of lipstick
what can be
your reasoning?Correct the formula
Lanolin anhydrous
10.0g
Candelilla wax
9.0 g
Castoroil
45.0g
White beeswax
9'o g
Ozokerite wax
10.0g
Eosin
2.o g
Lake colours
l2.Og
Halogenatedfl uoresceins
3.0 g
t)
Why the melting point of lipstick should be higher than drop point?
l 0 Write the differencesbetween lip salve and liquid lipstick.

lftrw will you evaluatea lipstick after manufacturing?
t) (a) How are 'colouredlipstick', 'liquid lipstick', 'transparent
lipstick' and
'lip salve' similar to and diffcrent from each other with respectto their
use/functionand type of pigmentVcoloursincorporated.
(b) hovided to you are:
Bromo acid, solvents of bromo acid (acetone,ethyl alcohol, citral,
terpiniol, castor oil, oleyl alcohol), oil soluble pigment, alcoholsoluble dye, insoluble red pigment, titanium dioxide, carnuba wax,
ethyl cellulose, lanolin, PEG (plasticizer),paraffin oil and lanolin
il
For making a liquid lipstick, which ingredientswill you chooseand why?

l l . Enumeratethe processyou would employ while formulating a lipstick
1 4 . Provided to you is the following formula:
Ingredients
7ow/w
Bromoaciddyes
20.0
10.0
40.0
10.0
10.0
2.0
Insolublepigmentsand lakes
q. s.
Perfume
q. s.
Polyoxyethyleneoleyl ether
Oleyl alcohol
Castoroil
Candelillawax
Carnubawax
(a) Mention the purposeof each ingredient in the above formula.

(b) Can this formula be used for making 'lip salve'? If not, then make
minimum changes in the formula to convert it into a lip salve
preparation. Justify yoru answer.
15. Which type of rougeyou prefer mostly and why?
l(r. In beeswax- borax type rougeswhat is the purposeof usinghygroscopic
substances?
('h. 5
Skin Creams
l. What is the chemical basis of the bees wax-borax type of cleansing

cream?
2 Why is all-purposecreamcalled as 'all-purpose'cream?Does it fulfil the
requirements
of all typesof creams?If yes/no,justify.
244
3. which types of creamsare usedfor nourishingthe skin?

Discussdifferent
categories(along with examples)of ingredientsused

while making these
types of creams.
4. Differentiatebetweenthe followine:
(a) Cold crbam and vanishing cre-am
(b) Vanishing cream and foundation cream
(c) Cleansingcream and massagecrearn
5. what are moisturizing rotions?How will you
evaluatea -moisturizing
lotion with respectto its functionsand physicar
characteristics?
6' Design a cosmetic formulation meant to be used
in the daytime for dry
and scaly skin, full of minute scars. Justify your
formulatitn. Give the
compositionand use of individual ingredientsthat you
choose. AIso,-r
briefly explain the method of preparationof the
s,ame.
Skin allergy/sensitivity
7. Mrs. Kulkarni travers in the sun for at reast r
hour daily. She started
using a new handand body lotion. Nothing happened
to her for the first
15 days, but from the l6th day she sta.teo deuetoping
rashesonly on the
exposedportions of her body. Give probablereasons
for the same.
8. on applying preparationsmade of each of the
below listed compounds,
certain specific reactionswere observedon the skin
as mentionedagainst
eachcompound:
irl
lr
Compound A : Severe stinging immediately after

application, which
intensified till the first five minutes and then subsided
after2o minutes.
Compound B : Reddening and swelling after
application only upon
exposureof skin surfaceto the sunlight for l0 minutes.
Compoundc : Reddeningand itching only after
14 days of conrinuous
application.
CompoundD : Reddeningand swelling after an hour
of application.
Name the category to which each of thesecompounds
belongs.
9. Compound A has a very good sun_screening
capacity, but produced
rasheson skin (when incorporatedin a skin cream
and applied) within 5
minutes of exposure to the sun. Nothing happened
oo tfre covered
regrons.
Compound B is a dye, which (when incorporated
in a lipstick) did not
produce any reaction
repeated application
by
women staying in_
-But
_upon
doors/outdoorson the first
twenty days.on the twenty-first day,ioth
group of women (staying indoors as well as
outdoors) developed.t,.tiri,
of the lips' upon discontinuingthe use, the lips
regainedth"i, no.mul
statewithin 2-3 d.ays. After a gap of on"
when the lipstick was
re-applied,chelitis occurred in all the women
-ooth,
on that dav itseli.
245
Alrlr lV MODELQUESTIONS
('lr. (r Sunscreen/suntanand Palliative Preparations
I Why are blacksmore resistanttowardssunburnsthan whites?
,' Wlratis E-vitons/cm2.

whereit is used?
I lrxplain the useful and harmful effects of the ultraviolet radiation from a
c(lsr)eticpoint of view.
'l l:xplain how zinc oxide may act as a sunscreen.In what other ways can
il sunscreenact?
I What shouldbe the El%g.1.- for an eff'ectivesunscreenlotion?
(r llow will you evaluatethe functionaleffectiveness
of a sunscreenlotion?
/ l)itferentiatebetweena sunscreenand a suntanlotion.
ll. Suntanpreparationsshould contain sunscreenagents. Write whether this
slatementis true or false with justification.
'lil
producea minimal perceptibleerythemaon Prabha'sskin, exposureof
l)
25.92 E-viton minutes/cm2of skin is necessary. The intensity of solar
radiationis 3.6 E-viton/cm2of skin. How long an exposurewill produce
perceptibleerythemaon her skin?
l(l A fair illiterate male person who works as a coolie in road construction
during the period of lst may to 7m may in Rajasthan observed skin
tanning. He is drinking a preparation,which containsexEactof animagus.
'
l'rom may 19thonwards,he startedusing a sunscreenfor 2 weeks,but no
cf.fectwas found. What could be the reason/s& remedy?
| | A male (35 yrs) living in Mumbai has sunburn. To get relief of irritation
rtue to sunburn, he is using a lotion, which has the following formula.
l)o you expecta good recovery?Justify your answer'
Ingredients
Calamine
Zinc oxide
Camphor
Zinc sulphocarbonate
Mineral oil
Glycerin
Rosewater
Methyl paraben
Vow/w
15.0
5.0
1.0
1.0
5.0
10.0
54.0
q.s.
Apdl-lv
246
'dispensingpharmacist',chooseone or more ingrcdienrcfrom this list to

custom-make a preparation specifically for Mr. Ali. Incorporate any
auxiliary ingredientson your own. Give justification of the ingredients
chosenand also the proportion in which incorporated.
14. Following preparation was formulated as a 'palliative preparation' for
sunburn:
12. Look at the followingformulation:

Ingredients
Sunscreenagent
Nonionic surfactant
Ethyleneglycol monostearate
hopyleneglycol
Dihydroxyacetone
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Vowhv
r0.0
2.5
2.0
8.0
3.0
74.5
q.s.
q.s.
Ingredients
Petroleumjelly
Mineral oil
Methyl salicylate
Lanolin
Sodium stearate
Salicylic acid
Purified water
What will happenift

(a) there is no sunscreenagent in the above formulation?
(b) the concentrationof dihydroxyacetoneexceeds5Vo?
(c) the concentrarion
of dihydroxyacetone
is lT%oand pH is 2.5?
13.Mr. Ali (residentof saudi Arabia) has a very pale and sensitiveskin. He
prefers to have a tannedcomplexion, but when'he goesout in the sun,
he
developspainful skin burns insteadof a healthytan. To do away with
this problem, he visits a pharmacistwho dispenseshim the foliowing
product:
Ingredients
p-aminobenzoicacid
Methyl cellulose
Glycerol
Ethyl alcohol
Perfume
Purified water
247
MODEL QUESTIONS
%ow/w
20.o
10.0
10.0
5.0
5.0
2.0
q.s.to lfi)
Would this formula be effective for the purposc?If yes, then justify. If
no, then make changesand give reasonsfor the same.
Ch.7
Hair
l. A woman of age 50 yrs has white hair on her scalp. A man of sameage
also has white hair on his scalp but more whitening is seen. Why does it
happcn so?
Vow/w
2. How hair respondsto external stimuli?

3. Why rednessof hair occurs.
4. What are the elementsin brown hair?
5. (a) How are skin, hair, and nails similar and how are they different
5.0
0.5
5.0
40.0
q.s.
q.s.to 100
O) Upon which two factors does the length of hair depend?

(c) What are the probablecausesof 'alopecia areata' (patchy baldness)
(d) What effect will cuning, plucking and exposing the hair to ultraviolet radiation for long time respectively,have on hair and its growth
cvcle?
He startsusing this 'sunscreenpreparation'beforesun exposure.Though

the amountof tan producedis negligible,he does not developa painfirt
skin burn and he is partially satisfied with the preparationuntil the l5th
day after which he startsdevelopinga swellingand blisteringreaction
on
the sun exposedregions.
(a) what are the probable reason/sfor this reacrion,which
appearsfrom l5rh
day onwards
(b) Provided to you are: caramine, Ethyl p-aminobenzoate,
Ethyl alcohol,
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate,Dihydroxyacetone,
Ethyl p_dimetlyl amino_
benzoate,Zinc oxide, Methyl salicylateand Titanium dioxide. As a
6 What is greying of hair? What could be the probable reason(s) and

remedy(ies)for the same?
7. Writc whetherthe given statementis true or false with justification. Hrir
should be trimmed regularly because cutting the hair from the tips
stimulatesa new anagenphase.
('h. 8-11 Hair CleansingPreparations
L IIow will you test a shampoofor its eye irritation? Mention llrc stcgri"'
brief. What is the significanceof carrying out this test?
lli
248
2. What are principle and secondarysurfactants

in the shampoo prepara_
A l rrl r l V
tions? Explain their role in the formulation

of liquid shampooswith
examples.
3. Discussthe evaluationof the shampoos.

4' Designa shampooformurationfor red,
scaly,irritablescalpskin. person
is also been found to be sufferingfrom
seborrhei.O"..nuitir."'G;;"
formula,justify the use eachingredient.
5. Mention the main usesof surfactantsin
hair cleansers.
6. A manufacturerusesthe following formula
for making a .shampoo,.
Ingredients
Vow/w
Sodium stearate
50.0
3.0
q.s.
q.s.to 100
Sodiumchloride
Perfume,colour and preservatlve
Purified water
A woman using the above hair waving solution found her hair as
lrccorning hard and cuticle becoming brittle. What might be the probable
rc:rson'l Suggest the modifications in the above formula accordingly
'
4 I)iscuss the microanatomy of the Hair Follicle.

virrious phases involved in hair cycle.
('h. 13
Monoethanolamine
Ammonium carbonate
Barium sulphide
Zinc sulpbide
Glycerine
Polyethyleneglycol
SodiumCMC
Water
Perfume
Preservative
Borax
Sodium/Potassium
sulphate
Glycol sulphate
Water
Perfume
3.25g
0.5 g
0.65g
89.35g
q .s .
Quantiry
10.0g
10.0g
15.0g
2-5e
3.0g
9.5g
q.s.
q.s.
What happens:
(a) if barium sulphidealone is replacedby strontiumsulphide?
(b) if both barium sulphide and zinc sulphide are replacedby strontium
sulphide?
A cosmetologistplucked the hair of 40 yrs old lady by tweezers,where
the pluckedhair is removedalong with hair bulbs. To avoid discomfort
of pulling hair she applied benzocaine. After two days the female
t:omplainedof infection at the site of hair removal
(a) What is the name of procedurethe cosmetologistused
(b) To prevent such infection what might may be given?
3 .0 g
4.25g
Hair Removers
Ingredients
Quantity
3.0 g
Describe, in short, the
| (iiven a formulation:
Ch. 12 Hair wavers, Curlers and Straighteners

I Look at the following formula:
Triethanolamine
Why the pH of alkali solution of substituted mercaptan need to be

rrririrrtained
in between 9.2-9.5?
t Whlt is the best method to achieve cold waving and why? How the
processing time can be prolonged?
Me'tion the purposeof eachingredientin

the formulation. As a product
developmentexecuti-ve--will
you proceedwith this formurao, ,uoita
yoo
make some changes?If you decide to
make change/s,accoiint for each
addition/deretionof ingredientsor change
in proportion/s. otherwise,
justify the appropriateness
of the currentlormula.
7' Formuratea 'Hair tonic' for alopecra
areata. Justify your choice of
ingredients and the proportions in which
you pran to incorporate them.
AIso, write the directionsfor using the
same.
8' For sensitivitytestingof a hair dye
containrngcoal tar colour, what will
you do.
Ingredients
249
MOD E L QU E S TION S
Name the functionsof the main componentspresentin a Depilatory.
4 Mention the purposesof main ingredientsusbd in hair lacquers.

( 'h . 14
I
Shaving heparations
Why do shavingsoapscontain little amountof sodiunrsoap tlriln l)r,tl'.

siurn soap?
ilt rr'.rr,r!
Mentionthe role of superfattingageiltsin shavingprepal:rlrorrr
(.3AVa),
concentration
beyond(-50%,)
rrrrrl,rt rrr' I'
at a concentration
250
A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS
concentration(5%).
Aryh lv
l. Iirllowing is the formula of a nail varnish:
Lotions uscd as after-shavepreparationscontain alcohol, emollient, antiseptic etc. If there is skin sensitivity with the lotion what should be the
remedy for this?
Theoretically 'Lather shaving cream' should corrode the razor blade edge
more than the'brushless shavingcream', but practically,it is the other
way around. Justify this statement.
Ingredients
Nitrocellulose
Sulphonamide-formaldehyde
resin
Dibutyl phthalate
Castoroil
Ethyl acetate
Butyl acetate
Isopropyl alcohol
Toluene
Red iron oxide
Bismuth oxychloride
Titanium dioxide
Bentonite27
Perfume
Why do some people prefer using 'aerosolshavingcrcam' even though it

is more expensive than normaUconventionalshaving cream preparation
dispensedin tubes?
(a) 'ilfhat is an 'after-shavepowder? How is it similar to and
different from 'body talcum powder'?
(b) What properties should an after-shavepowder possess? Mention
one ingredient (per property) that will help in achieving those
desiredproperties.
7. Formulate an after-shavepreparation. Justify thc formula.
8. What are 'beard softeners'? When are they used?What do they contain
as their main component/s?
9. Justify the statement:pre-shave preparationsfor wet shaving have an
oppositeaction to that of pre-electricshavepreparations.
Ch. 15 Nail
1. What is the difference betweeneponychiumand hyponychium?
2. An obese(becauseof thyroid problem) T.V. actressapplies nail varnishes
twice daily, for 5 days in a week without any supplementationto nails.
Her nails are brittle and hard. What are all the probablereasonsfor this
and give at least two important suggestions.
3. A male dhobi who was always in contact with water, detergentshad red
and swollen nails, which became rough, opaque and brittle afterwards.
Name the infection and its origin. Also name the later stageof infection
and statehow does it occur.
4. What is cuticle?How nail polish and nail lacquersimilar?
Ch. 16 Nail Lacquers and Removers
l. Justify the following:
(a) l0OVoacetoneis not an ideal solvent for removing nail lacquers.
(b) Castor oil is often used as a plasticizerin nail lacquers,but in
conjunction with anotherplasticizer.
2. Acetonealone cannorremovecoatingsof nail varnish. Some additional
ingredientsare also incorporatedin nail varnish removers. What are they
and why do we incorporatethem?
25r
MODEL QUESTIONS
Vo w/w
18.0
6.5
3.0
1.5
r0.0
20.o
10.0
22.O
3.5
1.0
0.5
1.0
3.0
Nitrocelluloseis solublein ethyl acetateand butyl acetate.

Make a flow chart, clearly indicating the procedure you would employ
for preparing this nail varnish. Mention the order of addition, temperature or condition wherever applicable.
4, Justify the statement: Formulations of top coat (nail varnish) contain
higher proportion of nitrocellulose and plasticizer, and lower proportion
of resin.
('h. 17 Auxiliary Products for Nails
l. The following preparationwas made with a view to treat brittle nails:
Ingredients
Glycerol
Triethanolamine
Perfume
Purified water
Vow/w
r5.0
l1. 0
q.s.
q.s. to lfi)
Can it be used for hearing brittle nails? Why (what effect will it have)?
Formulate a preparationon your own to treat brinle nails. Justify.
Enumcratethe differencesbetweenNail bleach and Nail white.
1 What is a 'fingernail-elongator'?
4 Your nails are dry and brittle and split very easily.
Which ol rlre
following would you adoptto attainhealthynails?The right oprioncoul.l
-F
252
A HANDBooK oF cosMEt-r(,.\
be none, one or more than one. Give reason for either choosing arr
option or rejecting an option.
(a) Massaging your nails with a good brand cuticle remover once rn il
week
(b) Oral ingestion of 2.0 g of gelatin for one month
(c) Keeping the nails clean by frequent washing with soap and water
(d) Applying a fresh coat of nail varnish everyday after cleaning thc
previous application with a nail remover.
(e ) Soaking the nails in warm water followed by application of a nail
cream before going to bed (once in a week)
(0 Soaking the nails in 4Vo HCI solution (Conc. HCI in water) followed
by application of a good quality nail white before going to sleep
(once in a week)
r'o) Oraf ingestion of 2.O g of PABA for one month
Ch. 18
Tooth and Oral Cavity
I. Teeth tend to develop: calculus, acquired pellicle, pla.que and caries.

What is the order of occurrence of these on teeth?
2. Enumerate the measuresthat could be taken to conftoltaries.
Ch. 19-20
ryrl .,l \
1. Enumerate the physicaVfunctional parameters that you would evaluate in

the tooth powder.
Sorlium saccharine
l'rrlil'icdwater
[ V l . l k r . r r r i n i mu m ch a n g e /si n th e a b o ve fo r m u l a to m a ke i tsta b l e .Wh a tts

tlrc lrrttctionof each ingredient in the preparation?
It l'rovrtlcd to you is the following formula:
Ingredients
Potash alum
Alcohol
Purified water
Ingredients
3. You own a cosmetic manufacturing unit. One of the products is toothpaste (net weight 50 grams). Make a draft of the label (including all
necessary information) for the same.
Glycerol
4. How will you evaluate toothpaste after manufacturing?
Preservative
5. Name the functions of rnain ingredients present in a mouthwash.
Purified water
6. Comment on the statement: It is advisable to prevent the formation of

tartar rather than to remove it afterwards.
7. Following represents a formula of toothpaste, with some stability problern/s:
Sodnrm lauryl sarcosinate

Esser.rtialoils (peppernrint,clove and anise)
Hydroxyethyl cellulose
Zinc cirloride
2.0,
10"0
q.s.to 100
ICirsons.
Zinc phenolsulPhonate
Glycerol
0/ow/w
'mouth wash" 'asftingent

Would you prefer using this preparation as a
given the liberty to
you
were
l,rtion'or both? Justify your choice' If
ideal mouthwash
an
it
make
to
rrrirke minimum changes in the formula
your
answer with
Support
changes?
those
;rrt:paration, what would be
2. Enurnerate the differences between tooth powder and toothpaste.
Precipitated calcium carbonate
0. 4
0.25
0.05
q. s.t o 100
Sl:utuottsfluoride
( 'l r l o n r l b r m
l,txlk at the following formula of a mouth wash:
Dental Care Preparations
Ingredienrs
253
N 'l {)l )l i l . QTJ E S TION S
ohw/w
50.0
30.0
2.5
7.5
1."5
0.5
Menthol
Alcohol
u/aw/w
3. 0
8. 0
0.05
15. 0
q. s.
q.s.to 100
(a) To what type of customers will this product be targeted?

( b ) Wo u l d c o n su m e r sr e a d i l ya cce p tth e a b o ve co m p o si ti o n a sa m o u th and
wash? If yes, justify. If no, then suggest some improvisations
give reasons for the same.
( c ) G i v e . d i r e cti o n sfo r u se 'th a tyo u w o u l d i n cl u d e o n th e l a b e l o fth i s
Product.
(d) io which other category/ies of preparations can this formula
belong? JustifY.
Miserllaneous
(HLB value-2'3) and R
I You are provided with two emulsifying agents: A
the two to obtain:r
you
mix
(IILB value-7.4). In what proportion will
,c-ouisi"ieHLB value of 6-7'!
254
A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS
2. What are spansand tweensand what type of emulsionsthey make?Why?

3. What is silicone oil? Wherc is it employed and why?
!:
4. What are the types of stability testing to which a finished product is
SUBJECTINDEX
subjected?
Aftrr'shavingpreparations,174
All purposecreams, 86
r'oltlpostion,86
Arrtrrlandruffshampoos,120
Arrlrscplicshampoos,120
Atrrrosphericoxidation for cold wavtng. 158
,lrrriliary productsfor nails, 193
('llssification, 193
5. Out of oleic acid, fquid paraffin and coconutoil which one is least likely
to undergooxidation? Give reason/s.
6. Usually tocopherols are naturally present in fats and oils. Give the
probablereason/sfor the same.
7. What will heating the water.to l20oC in a thin film and then instantaneously cooling it do? Will it demineralize the water? Enumerate the
processesyou would employ for demineralizing water for making
cosmeticpreparations.
8 . What are volatile silicones?Where are they used and why?
9 . What is the full form of ceftimide? What are its uses in cosmetic
products?
1 0 . What is LIHST of water? What is its purpose?
1 1 . Suggesttwo meansby which a red toner is convertedinto a red lake.
t2 . Siliconescan be presentin the form of volatilefree flowing liquids,higher
boiling point viscousliquids, as well as resinoussemi- solids. Justify.
1 3 . Enumeratethe methodsthat can be employed for microbiological purification of water, meant for making cosmeticpreparations.
t4. What are stearic acid and oleic acid? For what purpose/s are they
employed in cosmetic products?
1 5 . Enumeratethe functions of ethyl alcohol and soft paraffin.
1 6 . What is ambientcondition testingof a productand what is its significance?
r 7 .Enumerate4 categoriesof cosmetic productsfor which you would carry
out skin sensitivity testing.
18. Write the applicationsof zinc oxide in different formulations.
19. How will you build quality into the final product?
20. Your firm has been provided with 100 conrainers(containing 10 kg each)
of purified talc by a supplier. What would be the samplingtechnrque
adopted by your 'quality assurancedept.' to minimize variability in
results.
21. What is 'repeafedinsult test'? What are the limitations of 'prophetic
patchtest' that the 'repeatinsult test' overcomes?
22. Give two examplesof eachof the following categoryof components.In
which all cosmeticpreparations
are they usedand what function do they
perform in those specific preparation/s?
(a) Quaternaryammonium compounds (b) Thioglycollates
(c) Vegetableoils
(d) Mineral hydrocolloids
(e) Synthetic resins
(f) Higher fatty acids
lleeswax-boraxcleansingcreams,63
gcncral manufacturing,64
htrnuth dyes, 134
llrxly powders, 34
gencralmanufacturing,35
hr rlliantines,142
typcs, 142
lttrd. 142
lrquid, 142
llrurno-mixtures,
43
flr ushlcssshaving creams, 172
('lclnsing and cold creams, 62
cJraracteristics.
63
typcs,63
{'lrnr liquid shampoos,l17
('rrld wave powders, 157
('old waving procedures,156
lhccial methods, 158
( 'olours, certified, 228
('olours for lipsticks,44
('orrrnon disordersof skin, 17
('otrrpact face powders, 30
brrrdingagents,30
rrrctlrodsof preparation,30
( 'orrlctics, I
r 'l l s s i l 'i c a t i o n . 2 .3
tlclinition,224
ffnl)ort rules for 224
l:rlrcling& packing for,227
rules for, 225
rrrlrrulacturing
:.rrlt'srules for,226
( r r t r (l c r c m o v e r s ,1 9 4
( 'utrtlc softeners.194
Dandruff, l8
Dental care preaprations,203
e va l u a ti o n ,2 1 4
liquid. 213
pastes,204
powdcrs,2l l
so l i d ,2 1 3
Dental preparations,202
, . classification,202
Dental problems, 201
Dentifrices, 203
functions, 204
Depilatories, l6l
characters,162
ingredients, 162
Disorders of the sebaceousand sweat
glands, t8
Electrolysis for hair removal, 167
Epilatories, 166
Evaluation of
dental care preparations,214
hair colourants, 140
hair grooming aids, 15l
hair removers, 167
hair tonics, 127
hair wavers, 160
lipsticks, 58
mouth washes,222
nail lacquers, l9l
p o w d e r s,3 T
roughes, 60
shampoos,l2l
shaving preparations,176
skin creams, 89
sunscreenpreparations,103
Face powders, 26
characters, 27
classification,27
general preparations,28
heavy type, 27
light type, 27
medium type,21
255
256
Foundation creams, 7l
general manufactures.7l
Foundation make-up. 73
Foundation and vanishirrgcreams, 67
Gel shampoos,I 18
Harr, 105
ailments,108
anatomy and structure, [06
functions, 107
Hair and hair follicles, 105
Harr bleaches,136
materials, 137
Hair care preparations,109
classification, 109
Hair cleansingpreparations,I l0
Hair colourants, 128
characteristics,128
classifications,128
evaluation,140
lighteners, 136
permanentcolorants, 132
Semipermanentcolorants, 130
temporary colorants, 129
Hair conditioners, 126
Hair creams, 146
Hair curlers, 152
Hair dye removers, 139
Hair grooming aids, l4l
Classification, l4l
evaluation, 151
Hair lacquers, 149
Hair lighteners, 136
materials, 137
Hair oils, 142
Hair reducing agents, 159
Hair removers, 164
evaluation, 167
Hair setting lotions, 144
Hair sprays, 149
Hair straighteners,152, 159
methods,159
Hair tonics, 122
compositions,122
evaluation, 127
materials, 123
l l l l l l ,\
Hair wavers, 152

ev alua t i o n , 1 6 0
Hair waving, principle, 152
Hand and body creams, 80
m at er ia l s , 8 l
types,83
general manufacturing,83
Hot wave preparations,153
Ingredientsof cosmetics,230
Lacquersremovers, 190
characters,l90
Lead dyes, 134
Lipskin, 40
Lipsticks, 39
characters, 40
colours for, 44
composition, 4f
evaluation,58
General preparation, 47
oils for, 42
waxes for, 4l
Liquefying cleansingcreams,66
general manufacturing, 66
Liquid cream shampoos,l17
Liquid hair bleaihes, 138
Measuresfor healthy hair, 108
Mechanism of hair waving, 152
Metallic hair dyes, 134
Methods and preparationsof hair wav,
ing, 153
Mouthwashes,216
antisepticsfor,2lj
astnngentsfor, 218
characters,
216
colours, 220
composition,216
deodorizing agentsfor, 219
dry extracts for,2l9
evaluation,222
flavours for,2l9
surfactantsfor,219
sweetenersfor,220
vehicle for,220
t.
251
178
'r r , r l r {n y ,
,
179
"il)l)bsition,
, 1 n rl.[ r e , I 7 9
I lprl Irlrhches,196
l J , , r lc r r $ m s ,1 9 3
l r r r l t l r S r d e r s ,1 8 0
'l 80
lrrrttltfness,
r'tlcrls of systemicdisease,180
lrnllrrl or bacterialorigin, 180
I'olrortychia,180
|r.rrktrnychia,180
rrrrtrrlion.8l
r N , r r lc r r : r m esl o l v e nts,1 8 5
N r r l l i r r 'q u e r s1, 8 2
188
I 't F l ) l r ( 'a t i o n ,
l l r r r r : r t 't e r s1,8 3
I r,rl,,rrr-s
for, 187
r r r r n l x r s i t i o n1, 8 3
, r l r l r r r 'r r fl so r , 1 8 6
I
e l , n l r r l r i o n 1, 9 1
filrrr lirrmersfor, 184
' ptctrcr
:rl preparation, 189
I pcru
lcscentpigments for, 188
'1 x 'r l r r r r r c s1,8 8
r lrlrtslrt'izcr
for, 187
r r r r r sI o r , 1 8 4
1 9r 7s,
N r l l l r l r t 'r 1 1 , i 1 l 1 s ne
w
l
r
l
c
n
c
r
s
,
1
9
7
Nlrrl
f . . /u' l t , t l r / ( 't sl r l r c o l d w a vi n g , l 5 ?
1 1 ,r r l r , r l r z r r rlgo t i o n s,1 5 8
p l r t ; r r t r ln t l t s s a g cr
e e a m s,7 4
I r Il t| ( ) :.tl r oi l ,
75
, r r r e ;rr l r r r r r r r r l a ctu r i n7g6,

I l t,
I l tl ' l rrt l rp:,l i t:ks,42
I l r I 1l r;rl nl xxrs, Il 9
, r,,,rl ,tl torrl r;rrr col ot trants , 136

l t)t)
1,1,'au'tt'
rtrrl ,rl 'Y . l {)t)
Palhativcprcparatrons,
98
Paste,trair bleacher,138
Permanenthair colourants, 132
Permanentwave solutions, 155
Pomeds,142
Powders, 24
evaluation,37
raw materials,24
Powder products, 26
Powder rouges, 40
preparation,4l
Powder shampoos,l16
Protective mechanismof the skin, 9l
Psoriasis,l8
Rouge, 50
anhydrouscream rouges, 54
powder rouges, 50
emulsionrouges,55
evaluation,60
liquid rouges, 57
Semi-permanenthair colourants, 130
Sh a m p o o s,1 1 0
additivesfor,1l4
antidandruff, 120
character, I I 1
composition,l1l
classification, 115
evaluation, l2l
gel shampoos,118
general manufacturing, 116
Iiquid shampoos, I 17
oil shampoos,l19
principal surfactants,1 12
secondarysurfactants,I 13
Shaving preparations,169
classificatron,169
evaluation, 176
for razor, 169
for electric shaving, 173
used before shaving, 169
Shavingcreams,hrushless,172
Shavingcreanls,acrosols.173
Shaving soaps,170
APPENDIX-IN
APPENDD(-W
Bibliography
Model Questions
l. M.S. Balsam and E. Sagarin,Cosmetics: Scienceand Technologt,
Wiley-Inter science,New York, USA.
2. l.B. Wilkinson, Harry's Cosmeticologt LeonardHill Book, London,
IjK.
3. Rema Janardhanan,Introduction to Cosmetics,a B.Pharmacy Study
Repo( B.I.T.S.,Pilani, Indi4
I TheS ki n
I Nsnrc the skin surfacesthat are exemptedfrom the distributionof hair
ftrllit'lcs.
lh
! llrw doesskin preventinfection?
4. J.S. Jellinek, Formation and Function of Cosmetics,Wiley-Inter

science,New Yorlq USA.
I Shin is the largest organ. Justify by emphasizingthe functions it

pctlirrms.
that is producedby tyrosine(amino acid) in the skin.
{ NErncthe substance
5. W.A. Poucher,Modern Cosmetics,Vol. I, lI and III, B.I. Publications, New Delhi, India.
I frrrrun average5 foot, 58 kg humanof surfacearea1.58m2, what will be

glandsapproximately?
tlrc total numberof hair follicles and sebaceous
6. P.P. Sharm4 Cosmetics-Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality

Control, VandanaPublications,Delhi, India.
6 lderrtifythe following conditions:

(l) Scaly red patcheson the elbows, which bleed on removing the
scales.
(h) Flaking of stratumcorneumon scalpdue to microbialinfection.
7. Anne Young, Practical Cosmetic Science,Mills and Boon Ltd.,

London, UK.
t. B.M. Mithal, A Tqtbook of ForensicPharmacy,Vallabh Prakashan,
SU-221,Pitampur4New Delhi-l10034,India.
L5hrn continuallyreplacescells, removedby wear and abrasionwith new

r elh, migratingupwardsfrom below. Then, how is it possiblethat the
rrrkurrof an individual's skin remainsmore or lessconstantthroughout
tlrc Iifetime?
H Whut is strophulus/prickly heat? What is the reason for the lesions that
rlrvekrp?
u Whul is the difference between melanocytesand keratinocyteswith
te\pectto their structure,function and location?
Itl Whut are the changesthat occur in the skin due to aging?
I I Mention and briefly explain the various disordersof the oil and sweat
glnnds(presentin the skin).
I lr. I
Powders and Compacts
i lincc powdershave optimum particlesize. Justify.

=' Whnt are the typical characteristicsrequired in a face powder?Give a few
cxiunplesof the raw materialsthat impart thesecharacteristics.
t Which category of ingredients are added in powders for proper spread
arrdlor proper adherencerespectively?Give examples.
.l Wlrat is the basic differencebetween a 'loose' and a
face
powder?How are they similar?
23t
239
258
t(
Hair
l
I
r
I
r
L
F
F
L
t_H
H
Silverdyr ,5
Simulativepreparations,
lO0
Skin
anatomy& physiology,l2
apocrineglands,l7
appendages,
l7
composition,I I
dermis, 16
eccrinesweatglands,l7
epidermis,l3
functions, I I
hair, 17
nutrients,19
nutritionand care,19
sebaceous
glands,17
stratumcorneum,l3
stratumgerminativum,15
stratumgranulosum,15
stratumlucidum,15
stratumspinosum,15
subcutaneous
tissue,16
thickness,14
Skin colourants,39
Skin creams,64
classihcation,
64
evaluation.89
Skin disorders,17
agingof skin, 18
cornmondisorders,l7
dandruff, 18
hyperpigmentation,
18
hypopigrnentation,
l8
pigmenrarydisorders,18
psoriasis,l8
skin scalingdisorders,18
Solid creamshampoos,
I l8
Specialmethodsfor cold waving, 158
Stainingpreparation,lOt
Sunburnpreparations,92
classification.
92
evaluation,103
rl,
,( ) K
( ( ,.,i l t r tr i
Sunscrccn:lg(.nt\..) |
characlcrs,()3
Sunscrccnirrdcx. l(X
Sunscreenprcparations,9O, (f I
protectrvemechlnisnr.9 |
principle of cfl'ectivencss,()2
general manufacturing,9-5
Systemic suntan, 100
Temporary hair colourants, 129
Terminal hairs. 107
Tests for, see Evaluation
Tooth, 199
structure.199
Tooth pastes,204
abrasive& polishingmarerillstln
245
binding agentsfor, 207
I
bleachesfor, 208
characters
of,2M
coloursfor, 208
detergents& foanningmaterials
206
flavoursfor,2O7
generalpreparation,209
humecrants
for,207
ingredientsof,205
lubricantsfor. 208
preservatives
for, 208
sweetening
materials,207
Toothpowders,2ll
composition,
212
generalpreparations,
212
Vanishingcreams,68
generalmanufacturing,69
Vellumshairs,107
Vegetable
dyes"133
Waxesfor lipsricks,4l
Wave set preparations,153
Wavesolutions,
157
(
l
fit'
,f
i
i
r
I Esse n tia ls o f Ph ysica l P harmaci :uti cs -C V S S ubrahmanyam

1 T e xtb o o k o f Ph ysica l P harmaceuti cs -C V S S ubrahmanya4
6 Biopharmaceut ics and n".T3

[,.b:: f;H!'"nl,llT TE"rr,r*
"
",
* AT /B o f Ph a r m a ce u ti cal Formul ati on -B M Mi thal

o Co n tr o lle d Dr u g De livery-C oncepts and A dvances -V yas and K har
I Ph a r h a ce u tica l En g ineeri ng -C V S S ubrahmanyamet.al .
+ Ph a r m a ce u tica l M icr obi ol ogy -N K Jai n
r Ph a r m a c u tica l Bio te chnol ogy -S S K ori and MA H al kai
t A Ha n d b o o k o f Co smeti cs -B M Mi thal and R N S aha
r Disp e n sin g Ph a r m a cy -R M Mehta
r A T e xtb o o k o f Pr o fe ssi onal P harmacy -N K l ai n and S N S harma
r L a b . M a n u a l o f Ph ysical P harmacy -S ubrahmanyamand V asantharaj u
* L a b M a n u a l o f Ph ysic al P harmaceuti cs -S ubrahmanyamand S etty
r L a b lla n u a l o f Ph a r r laceuti cs -S ubrahmanyam,S etty & P rabhushankar
r L a b M a n u a l o f In d u stri al P harmacy -S ubrahmanyam,S etty, Mutta & S w amy
o L a b M a n u a l o f Ph a r ma E ngi neeri ng -S ubrahmanyam,S etty, K usumdevi& S uresh
r Ph a r m a ce u tics- I - RM Mehta
. Ph a r m a ce u tics- Il - RM Mehta
I Ph a r m a ce u tica l Pr o d ucti on and Management -C V S S ubrahmanyam
r Ph a r m a ce u tica l In d u stri al Management -R M Mehta
r Dr u g Sto r e a n d Bu siness Management -R M Mehta
t A Textbook of Forensic Pharmacy -BM Mithal
r A Textbook of Forensic Pharmacy -NK Jain
t Ph a r m a ce u tica l tu r ispudence -N K Jai n
t M e d icin a l a n d Ph a r m aceuti cal C hemi stry -H S i ngh and V K K apoor
t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Or g a ni c C hemi stry -N adendl a R ama R ao
. o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce u tical chemi stry (P c-u) -H S i ngh and V K K apoor
+ tr n o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce uti cal chemi stry (P C -I) -P Gundu R ao
t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Ch e mi stry-I -N C C haudhryand N K Gurbani
r Pr a ctica l Ph a r m a ce u ti cal chemi stry (P C -I & II) -S i ngh and K apoor
. Pharmaceutical Analysis-I -PC Kamboj
r ,L a b o r a to r y Ha n d b o o k for Instrumental D rug A nal ysi s -B G N agavi
t Bio ch e m lstr y - P Gu n du R ao
r Eio ch e m istr y a n d Cli ni cal P athol ogy -P C D andi yaand P K S harma
o Pharmaceutical Biochemistry -PK Sharma and PC Dandiya
.' In tr o d u ctio n to Ph a rmacol ogy -P C D andi ya and S K K ul karni
* Ha n d b o o k o f Exp e r imental P harmacol ogy -S K K ul karni
Mathur
r T e xtb o o k o f Ho sp ita l and C l i ni cal P hatmacy -D andi ya and
Zafer
& Zafer
P
harmacy
-D
andi
ya,
a
n
d
C
ommuni
ty
Ed
u
ca
tlo
n
He
a
fth
r
I Elementary Human Anatomy and Physiology
- Re g h u n a ndanan,Gopi nathanand R eghunandanan
e Textbook of Pharmacognosy -SS Handa and VK Kapoor
r Practiial Pharmacognosy -CK Kokate
V ol -l : P harmacopP i as and Formul ari es
+- Histo r y o f Ph a r m a cy i n tndi a,
-nllrishansingh
V:i:]; '"||#::;';:.:1,."X'*.,"'
Vot-43 Mahadeva Lal Schroff
. A Professor Remembers -PC Dandiya
VAI.I.ABHPRAKASHAS{
AP -53AP i tampur:a
D E LH I110034
Phone: 273L7755
rsB N 81-857 3r-22-5
e-mail : mail@vallabhprakashan.com

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A Handbook of

M.Pharm., Ph.D., MRPharmS

@2000 by authorsand publishers

A thought to bring out a Handbook of Cosmetics has been in the

Rs 125 (in Delhi)

3. Powders and Compacts

10. Hair Colorants

11. Hair Grooming Aids

12. Hair Wavers, Curlers and Straighteners

13. Hair Removers

14. Shaving Preparations

16. Nail Lacquers and Removers

17. Auxiliary Products for Nails

18. Tooth and Oral Cavity

19. Dental Care Preparations

: Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act

APPENDIX-II : Most Often Used Ingredienrsof Cosmetics

APPENDIX-IV : Model Questions

"That all women of whatever age, rank, profession or degree whether

All cosmeticsare formulatedas solids,semi-solidsor liquids. Their

Fig. l-l Classification

The other category of powders consist of body powders or talcum

power. Most lipsticks are prepared by moulding. To give a glossy

tanning. Westernpeopleor peoplewith light skins like their skins to

Sunburn Protection and Skin Tanning preparations

should be non-toxic, effectively absorb or reflect erythemogenic

Dental and Oral Care Preparations

The preparations used on eyebrows, eyelashesand eyelids are very

The mouthwashes are mainly solutions of antiseptic substanceswith

Since most of the cosmetic preparationsare meant to be applied on skin

,""'6tin contains several chemical substanceswith specific functions

Ch.z THE SKIN

underlying dermis of connective tissue. At the bottom of the dermislies

Each thin polygonal cell measures approximately 0.5 to l.5 pm thick,

Number of Cell Lqvers

Ch-2 THE SKIN

Human beings constantly shed the outermost layers of the stratum

The barrier function of the junction can be consideredin terms of

A.' Pigmentary Disorders

Ch-2 THE SKIN

Powders, face powders, compacts etc.

Powders and ComPacts

Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

selectionof proper raw materials. euality of the basic ingredientsis

powders,is the ability to cover small skin imperfections,enlargedpores,

Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

(3) Materials imparting slip and softneis : Slip is rhe quality of

preferred less than magnesium carbonate.

to get better effect.

not be used in excessof 30 Per cent.

Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

and thus require great covering power. They normally contain

Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

(2) COII{PACT FACE POWDER

Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

(a) Dry binders : They are metallic stearate-slike zinc stearate,

t s int lin g a g e n ts :T h e b i n c l e rs u s e d i n compactpow dersareseveral i n

(l )W etmetho d: lnt hism et hodbasicm at er ials, colour sand

anolamine stearate with lanolin and cetyl alcohol'

Formulae of Conpact Face Powders

(3) BODY POWDERS

Body powdersconsistmainry of talc, with smail proportionsof a

o."--din bodY Powders'

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