Professional Documents
Culture Documents
introduction 11
tools and ingredients 15
ramen and other wheat noodle bowls 39
pho, bibimbap, and other rice-noodle and rice bowls 81
grain bowls 121
dumpling bowls 165
basics and components 213
sources 249
index 251
This fragrant, vibrantly colored, rich bowl called laksa can be thought of as the
Malaysian street-food counterpart to Japanese ramen. Authentic, non-vegetarian
versions call for seafood in most of the primary components. My vegetarian
laksa is a little lighter, but still has a good deal of body from the coconut milk
and a heady, fragrant spiciness from curry paste. I encourage you to make your
own curry pastethe recipe that follows is modeled after a fragrant Malaysian
curry paste, and the most complicated part about it is sourcing the galangal, fresh
turmeric, and lemongrass. But you can certainly substitute store-bought curry
pastejust check to make sure all the ingredients are vegetarian. Brown rice vermicelli noodles make a great substitute for the wheat noodles used here.
Used primarily as an aromatic in many cuisines of the world, curry leaves add
an unmistakable, somewhat lemony flavor to soup-based bowls. They bear no
relation to curry powder. Small branches of fresh curry leaves are increasingly
available at western grocery stores, alongside the other fresh herbs in the produce
department. Or more reliably, you can find them at Indian groceries and many
Asian markets that cater to Malaysian and Indonesian clienteles where theyre
sometimes sold from the freezer. If using frozen curry leaves, dont bother thawing them first; add them directly to what youre cooking. S E R V E S 4
2 tablespoons coconut oil
60
This bowl has a terrific balance of autumnal flavors and a mix of foliage-inspired
colors, with its sweet squash, earthy and juicy shiitakes, and slightly bitter broccoli
rabe. All the vegetables are oven-roasted, and you can crisp the rice while theyre
cooking, making this a relatively quick and efficient bowl to throw together.
Roasted mushrooms are easy and addictive, adding bulk and chew. As for the
squash, cutting it into domino-like slabs creates more surface area for caramelization. You can use any winter squash here, such as kabocha (which doesnt require
peeling) or acornor even sweet potatoesjust cut them to about the same size,
and watch closely during roasting. S E R V E S 4
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farro bowl
S T E A M E D V EG E TA B L E S , TOA S T E D WA L N U T S , P E S TO - R I C OT TA C R E A M
Farroa grain similar to but not the same as barley, emmer, and spelthas a
good deal of substance. Rich and creamy things, such as the ricotta amped up
with pesto in this recipe, are complementary. Use a good, fresh-made ricotta
thats light and fluffy, rather than grainy and dense. For the vegetables, asparagus
and snap peas are terrific, as are chunks of ripe tomato, summer squash, roasted
winter squash, or any type of leftover roasted vegetables. Farro shouldnt be
added straight to boiling water, or the insides will split the husks open. Cover it
with cold water and place over the heat so that the grains heat up gradually, and
the result will be much more attractive. S E R V E S 4
2 cups farro
6 small-to-medium radishes
Place the farro in a medium or large saucepan and cover with at least 6 cups water. Bring to
a boil, add the salt, then reduce the heat to a gentle boil and cook for 16 to 20 minutes, until the
farro is tender but retains a pleasant chew. Drain, then return to the pot and toss with the vinegar and red pepper flakes. Let stand, covered, until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables. Peel the carrots and slice into -inch-thick rounds. Trim
the stem ends off the green beans. Slice the potatoes into -inch-thick rounds or quarter them
if theyre small. Cut the radishes into paper-thin rounds.
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Combine the cabbage and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a colander. Let stand for 20 minutes, until
slightly wilted. Gently squeeze to extract excess moisture.
Stir together the cabbage, beets, olive oil, cumin, and pepper. Fold in the tahini, chives, sesame seeds, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice or a pinch of
sugar, as needed.
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