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contents

introduction 11
tools and ingredients 15
ramen and other wheat noodle bowls 39
pho, bibimbap, and other rice-noodle and rice bowls 81
grain bowls 121
dumpling bowls 165
basics and components 213
sources 249
index 251

vegetarian curry laksa


C O C O N U T, G R E E N B E A N S , TO M ATO E S , P E A N U T S

This fragrant, vibrantly colored, rich bowl called laksa can be thought of as the
Malaysian street-food counterpart to Japanese ramen. Authentic, non-vegetarian
versions call for seafood in most of the primary components. My vegetarian
laksa is a little lighter, but still has a good deal of body from the coconut milk
and a heady, fragrant spiciness from curry paste. I encourage you to make your
own curry pastethe recipe that follows is modeled after a fragrant Malaysian
curry paste, and the most complicated part about it is sourcing the galangal, fresh
turmeric, and lemongrass. But you can certainly substitute store-bought curry
pastejust check to make sure all the ingredients are vegetarian. Brown rice vermicelli noodles make a great substitute for the wheat noodles used here.
Used primarily as an aromatic in many cuisines of the world, curry leaves add
an unmistakable, somewhat lemony flavor to soup-based bowls. They bear no
relation to curry powder. Small branches of fresh curry leaves are increasingly
available at western grocery stores, alongside the other fresh herbs in the produce
department. Or more reliably, you can find them at Indian groceries and many
Asian markets that cater to Malaysian and Indonesian clienteles where theyre
sometimes sold from the freezer. If using frozen curry leaves, dont bother thawing them first; add them directly to what youre cooking. S E R V E S 4
2 tablespoons coconut oil

8 ounces dried or 12 ounces fresh ramen noodles


(page 232 or 235)

1/2 cup Red Curry Paste (page 63), or one


4-ounce can store-bought red curry paste

1 cup shredded savoy or green cabbage

3 cups vegetable stock, preferably homemade


(see page 219)

4 boiled eggs, firm yolks (page 224), halved

13/4 cups coconut milk (one 14-ounce can)

1/2 cup coarsely chopped roasted peanuts, for


garnish

1/2 cup quartered cherry tomatoes

1 branch fresh curry leaves (optional)


1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and


tender stems, for garnish

2 cups mung bean sprouts

Lime wedges, for serving

4 ounces green beans, stem ends trimmed


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roasted vegetable bibimbap


B R O C C O L I R A B E , B U T T E R N U T S Q UA S H , S H I I TA K E

This bowl has a terrific balance of autumnal flavors and a mix of foliage-inspired
colors, with its sweet squash, earthy and juicy shiitakes, and slightly bitter broccoli
rabe. All the vegetables are oven-roasted, and you can crisp the rice while theyre
cooking, making this a relatively quick and efficient bowl to throw together.
Roasted mushrooms are easy and addictive, adding bulk and chew. As for the
squash, cutting it into domino-like slabs creates more surface area for caramelization. You can use any winter squash here, such as kabocha (which doesnt require
peeling) or acornor even sweet potatoesjust cut them to about the same size,
and watch closely during roasting. S E R V E S 4

1 small or 1/2 a medium-to-large butternut squash


(about 11/2 pounds)
1 bunch broccoli rabe

5 cups cooked white or brown rice or mixed


grains (see pages 223), freshly cooked if
skipping the rice-crisping step

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms

4 soft- or crispy-fried eggs (page 225)

2 to 3 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil

1 cup sprouts or shoots, such as broccoli sprouts,


mung bean sprouts, or sunflower shoots, for
garnish

2 tablespoons soy sauce


1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons gochujang (see page 36) or
store-bought sambal oelek
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (optional)

1/2 cup Quick Cucumber Pickles (page 231),


for optional garnish
Lime wedges, for garnish
Gochujang Sauce (page 242) or sriracha,
for serving

Preheat the oven to 400F.


Trim the ends off of the butternut squash, then cut in half crosswise where the bottom begins to swell. Stand each piece upright on a sturdy cutting board and, with a sharp chef s knife,
carefully cut off the skin in strips, slicing down and working all the way around the squash.

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farro bowl
S T E A M E D V EG E TA B L E S , TOA S T E D WA L N U T S , P E S TO - R I C OT TA C R E A M

Farroa grain similar to but not the same as barley, emmer, and spelthas a
good deal of substance. Rich and creamy things, such as the ricotta amped up
with pesto in this recipe, are complementary. Use a good, fresh-made ricotta
thats light and fluffy, rather than grainy and dense. For the vegetables, asparagus
and snap peas are terrific, as are chunks of ripe tomato, summer squash, roasted
winter squash, or any type of leftover roasted vegetables. Farro shouldnt be
added straight to boiling water, or the insides will split the husks open. Cover it
with cold water and place over the heat so that the grains heat up gradually, and
the result will be much more attractive. S E R V E S 4

2 cups farro

1/2 cup fresh ricotta

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

3 tablespoons Pesto (page 163)

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Olive oil, as needed and for drizzling

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

8 ounces small to medium carrots of different


colors

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil or parsley,


for garnish

6 ounces green beans

Flaky salt, for garnish

8 ounces small waxy potatoes

Freshly ground black pepper, for garnish

6 small-to-medium radishes

Lemon wedges, for garnish

Place the farro in a medium or large saucepan and cover with at least 6 cups water. Bring to
a boil, add the salt, then reduce the heat to a gentle boil and cook for 16 to 20 minutes, until the
farro is tender but retains a pleasant chew. Drain, then return to the pot and toss with the vinegar and red pepper flakes. Let stand, covered, until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables. Peel the carrots and slice into -inch-thick rounds. Trim
the stem ends off the green beans. Slice the potatoes into -inch-thick rounds or quarter them
if theyre small. Cut the radishes into paper-thin rounds.
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sesame beet dumplings


TA H I N I , C U M I N , C H I V E S

Beets and tahini are an unexpectedly terrific combinationsweet and earthy,


succulent and creamywith a buttery flavor and texture. You can steam or roast
the beets yourself (see note, page 186), which does taste the best, but for this
recipe its fine to use the vacuum pouches of cooked beets sold in in the produce
section of many grocery stores are a fine second-best option. These dumplings
are best steamed or fried and served over a salad. Or, if you use fresh beets with
attractive greens still attached, serve the greens in place of or in addition to the
Stir-Fried Bok Choy and Rice suggested, cooking them just until wilted and silky,
2 to 4 minutes. In both cases, shower the bowls with toasted sesame seeds just
before serving. M A K E S 2 5 T O 3 0 D U M P L I N G S

1/2 cup finely shredded cabbage

Lemon juice, to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch of sugar (optional)

8 ounces cooked beets, grated

25 to 30 thin round or square dumpling


wrappers

1 tablespoon olive oil


1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons well-stirred tahini
1/2 cup minced fresh chives
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

for the bowls


Stir-Fried Bok Choy and Rice (page 208),
Toasted Quinoa with Massaged Kale (page
210), or Green Salad with Honey-Soy
Vinaigrette (page 204)

Combine the cabbage and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a colander. Let stand for 20 minutes, until
slightly wilted. Gently squeeze to extract excess moisture.
Stir together the cabbage, beets, olive oil, cumin, and pepper. Fold in the tahini, chives, sesame seeds, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice or a pinch of
sugar, as needed.

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FLAVORFUL VEGETARIAN VERSIONS OF FAVORITE


ONE-DISH MEALS: RAMEN, PHO, BIBIMBAP,
DUMPLINGS, AND BURRITO BOWLS
In BOWL, author Lukas Volger captures the full flavor of all the one-bowl
meals that are the rage todayin vegetarian form. With the bowl as
organizer, the possibilities for improvisational meals full of seasonal
produce and herbs are nearly endless.
Volger turns simple miso ramen into a glorious Summer Ramen with corn
broth, tomatoes, and basil. Vietnamese noodle soup pho is full of caramelized spring onions, peas, and baby bok choy. His Edamame Dumplings
are served in soup or over salad, while Spicy Carrot Dumplings appear
over toasted quinoa and kale for a rounded dinner. Grain bowls range
from Ratatouille Polenta to Black Rice Burrito. And unlike their meatier
counterparts, these dishes can be made quickly and without great expense.
BOWL also includes many tips, techniques, and indispensable base
recipes, including broths, handmade noodles, sauces, and garnishes.
LUKAS VOLGER is the author of Veggie Burgers Every Which Way and Vegetarian Entrees
that Wont Leave You Hungry, and founder of Made by
Lukas, a premium veggie-burger company. The editorial director of the biannual magazine Jarry, he has been
featured on The Splendid Table and in the New York
Times. He lives in Brooklyn, New York.

PUBLICITY AND MARKETING:


National Media
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Media Promotion
Publicity contact:
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212-598-5729
rebecca.liss@hmhco.com
ISBN: 978-0-544-19069-6
240 pages $25.00 71/2 x 91/8 Paperback

Publication date: March 8, 2016

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