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Construction Details
Step 1.
Step 2.
For added strength, the inside corners of the box are reinforced with a 1-inch nailer cut from a scrap piece of 1/x4 pine
(Figure 3). You can make these nailers by ripping a 1x4 into
three pieces lengthwise. You will need two pieces 22-1/2"
long and two pieces 8-1/2" long.
On the inside of the two side panels, glue and nail the 221/2" nailer along the back side holding the nailer 3/4" from the
edge. Position the nailer 1" from the bottom to allow for the
bottom panel, which will be add later.
Similarly, glue and nail the 8-1/2" piece along the front of
the side panel. For this nailer, keep it flush with the edge of
the side panel and 1 from the bottom.
Step 3.
Glue and screw the back panel to the two side panels. The
back panel will fit inside the sides. The bottom edges should
be flush so that the back panel extends 7/8" above the top
edge of the sides.
Across the front, glue and screw two 1-3/4"horizontal
braces 25-3/4" long made from scrap 1x4 pine (Figure 4). The
space between the braces should be 6-1/2" to accommodate
the front hinged panel.
Step 4.
Turn the partially assembled box upside down and prop up the
front to make it easier to work on. Slide in the Masonite bottom panel. It will be supported by the four corner braces. Using similar material to the corner braces (1" x 3/4" pine), install
support cleats on the inside of all four sides of the heater box
(Figure 5). Glue, clamp and nail each of these support braces.
Finally, install two support braces across the width of the bottom using 1" x 3/4" pine boards. Space the support braces
about 10" from either end. Use two 3" drywall screws on the
end of each cross brace.
Step 6.
The frame for the hinged glass top is made from 2x4s cut into
strips 1-3/4" x 1-1/4". You will need two pieces 37-3/4" long
and two pieces 25-3/4" long (Figure 8).
On the same side of each piece, cut a 1/2" x 1/2" notch on
the top and bottom edge (Figure 9). The glass panes will rest
on the resulting ledge with a 3/4" space between the panes.
Two assemble, miter each end (45 degrees), glue and use
two 2" drywall screws (predrill) to secure. Double check to
make sure the frame is square.
The glass will be installed in a later step.
3/
4"
2-
"
14
25
"
Inside the wax melter, the drip pan and wire basket are support by three 24-1/4" 1x4s spanning the width of the melter
(Figure 6). The supports are 6" below the top of the side panels and spaced 2-3/4", 14" and 25" from the inside of the back
panel.
The flat side of the 1x4s should be slanted so that they are
parallel to the top of the side panels. Use two 2" drywall
screws screwed in from the outside of the side panels on each
end of the supports.
Before installing the lowest support, glue and nail two 1/2"
x 1-3/4" x 8" stops on the front edge (Figure 7). Leave a 6"
gap between the stops.
6"
Step 5.
Step 7.
Step 8.
Step 9.
Using 3/4" foil faced foam board, line the two sides, bottom
and back of the wax melter (Figure 11). Glue the foam board
into place using an adhesive rated for foam. Put the foil faced
side toward the inside of the wax melter and then paint black.
Lumber yards also carry nails with plastic washers specifically designed to nail foam boards. These work quite well.
However, the nail length may be too long for this application,
so you might have to cut the nail to be no longer than 1-1/4".
Step 10.
The wheel bracket is made from a 1" x 12" piece of 1/8" steel.
Position the bracket 6" from the front of the wax melter and
screw the bracket to the side panel such that 2-1/2" extends
beyond the bottom of the box (Figure 12).
To make the bracket, drill a 1/2" hole 1" from the end for
the wheel axle (Figure 13). Then drill five 3/16" holes for the
mounting screws. Start these holes 1" from the top and space
2" apart.
Screw the bracket to the side panel with five #10 x 3/4"
pan head screws. Attach the wheel to the bracket using a 1/2"
x 4" hex head bolt. Use washers as shown in Figure 13. End
with a double nut separated by a lock washer. Repeat for the
wheel on the other side.
Note: the dimensions shown are for a 9" diameter wheel.
When assembled, the bottom of the wax melter will be 6"
above the ground. If your wheel has a different size, then the
height of your melter will be radius of your wheel plus 1-1/2".
This height is not critical.
Step 11.
Step 12.
Install the front door panel using two 1" hinges on the bottom
(Figure 15). On the top, use two half turn buttons to keep the
door closed. Finally, finish off the door with a 4" drawer pull.
Step 13.
You will need two 24" x 36" panes of tempered glass. Starting
on one side of the frame, put a thin layer of glazing compound
on the top of the ledge and the lay in the glass pane. Use
push-in glazier points to secure the pane. Then nail the retaining strips on top of the glass using 7/8 x 18 brads (refer back
to Figure 9).
Turn the frame over and install the second pane of glass in
a similar manner.
After the glass is installed, place the cover on top of the
wax melter and attach the lid to the filler strip using two 2-inch
hinges. Then attach a drawer pull to the front of the lid frame.
Step 14.
The wax drip pan is made from aluminum (trim coil stock). It
sits on the cross supports inside the wax melter. The drip pan
is 19-1/2" x 26-1/2" in size and 4" deep (Figure 16). All four
sides of the drip pan are bent up along the dotted lines as
shown. The tabs along the sides are bent along the outside of
the back and front (Figure 17). Fasten the tabs with several
pop rivets.
The bends are best made with a tool called a break. You
can also use the sharp edge of your work bench to make the
bends. Sheet metal shops will make this pan for you if you
prefer to go that route.
Note the front has a 6" wide spout. The two edges of the
spout are bent upwards (as shown) to guide the melted wax
into a wax pan.
If there are any holes in the corners, particularly the bottom corners, these can be plugged with epoxy. Paint the inside and outside of the drip pan black,
Step 15.
The wire wax basket sits inside the drip pan. The basket is
slightly smaller than the drip pan (17-1/2" x 25" x 3") and is
made from #8 screen mesh (Figure 19), Along the bottom of
the basket, there are three 3/4" spacers which hold the basket
off the bottom of the drip pan and allows melted wax to flow.
The basket is fabricated using the same basic steps as the
drip pan. Use short pieces of wire to hold the basket together
where the flaps fold over the back and front sides.
Cut three 3/4" x 3/4" x 24" strips from scrap 1x4s. Staple
these spacer strips to the bottom of the basket.
Extra Credit.
Sides (2)
Back (1)
Front (1)
Bottom (1)
Front Brace (2)
Back Corner Brace (2)
Front Corner Brace (2)
Bottom Support Brace (2)
Bottom Cleat (2)
Bottom Cleat (2)
Drip Pan Support (3)
Drip Pan Stop (2)
Lid Frame Sides (2)
Lid Frame Top/Bottom (2)
Filler (1)
Glass Pane Retaining Strips Top/Bottom (4)
Glass Pane Retaining Strips Sides (4)
Wax Basket Spacers (3)
Glass Retaining Strips, Top/Bottom (4)
Glass Retaining Strips, Sides (4)
3/4 ply - 10 x 36 x 24
3/4 ply 24-7/8 x 24-1/4
3/4 ply 6-1/2 x 25-3/4
1/4 hardboard 24- x 34-1/2
1-3/4 x 3/4 - 25-3/4
1 x 3/4 - 22-1/2
1 x 3/4 - 8-1/2
1 x 3/4 - 24-1/4
1 x 3/4 - 34-1/2
1 x 3/4 - 24-1/4
3-1/2 x 3/4 - 24-1/4
1-1/4 x 1/2 - 8
1-3/4 x 1-1/4 37-3/4
1-3/4 x 1-1/4 25-3/4
1-3/4 x 3/4 25-3/4
3/8 x1/2 -24-1/4
3/8 x1/2 -37-1/4
3/4 x 3/4 - 24
3/8 x 3/8 24-1/4
3/8 x 3/8 36-1/4
Reference Figure
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HARDWARE
AA
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CC
DD
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JJ
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MM
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PP
QQ
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SS
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8, 14 & 15
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Photo Gallery...
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Photo Captions:
1. Completed solar wax melter ready for use.
2. Rendered wax in convenient shapes.
3. Detail of front corner showing insulating board.
4. Detail of wheel assembly.
5. Detail of bottom supports.
6. Detail of rear stand and pulling handle.
7. Interior shown was pan and hardware cloth basket.