Make sure your wall is ready to go.

Once you've removed the current wall dressings

and wall items, like light switch covers, you'll want to check the base layer that you
will be building on to make sure that it is structurally sound. This is important, since
a rotting or weak wall can cause your tiling job to warp, crack, or even break and fall
down.
Look for signs of mold or damage to the tiling surface. Cracks are often a sign that a
wall may be weak and need to be replaced.
Try pressing on the wall, especially at the studs. If it gives way or feels soft, it may
require work.
If you are going to be tiling a large area, remember to use tiling board as a backer
and not just put the tiles directly onto drywall.[1] Tiling board is installed just like
drywall (nailed to the studs) but is made of more water resistant materials which
will keep it from warping and cracking your tile work.

Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 22

Use a level and tape to measure for your tile locations. Now, using a level and
measuring tape, measure and mark for the middle lines in the area you will be
tiling.[2] You want to find both the vertical and horizontal middle, since you will use
these to keep your tiles straight and divide the area into sections for tiling.
Never assume a fixture in the room like the tub or vanity (or even the ceiling) is
perfectly level. They rarely are. It is very important to rely on the level.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 33
Mark the locations on the wall using a chalk line. Using a chalk snap line, mark the
mid-line and vertical lines which you just measured. If you've never used a chalk
snap line before, don't worry: it's easy. Simply place a nail at one end of the space
you marked, attach the string, pull it taut and snap it down. This will leave a straight
line on your wall. You'll still want to check it for level but it's much more accurate
than drawing a line.
You can use just regular string and manually chalk it to make a chalk line but using
a chalk box, which are easily bought for about $5, will generally be a lot less work.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 44
Dry fit and then cut tiles to size using a diamond wet saw. Dry fit your tiles to be
sure that they will look the way you want them to look. Once you're comfortable
with how it looks, figure out how the tiles will meet up with the corners and edges of
your wall. You will probably need only a part of a tile when it comes to some of
these areas, so it will be necessary to cut the tiles to size. Measure how much space

you need for each row with the spaces and cut tiles to size using a diamond tipped
wet saw.
So, for example, let's say your wall to tile is five feet long. You're putting up subway
tile and the tiles are 6", with spaces of 1/4" between each of them. You'll need 9.6
tiles for each row to cover that space, meaning nine full tiles and one cut to 3.6"
If you don't own a diamond tipped wet saw, you can usually rent one from your local
major hardware store. You can also use a tile cutter, but this is more likely to end in
broken tiles so only take this option if using cheaper tiles. [3]
Dry fitting is especially important if your tiles make up a pattern, since you will need
to be very comfortable creating that pattern. You don't want to make a mistake or
have to spend a lot of time thinking about it once the mortar is up on your wall.
You can test your dry fit pattern by making a layout stick, which can be made from
any straight and level piece of spare wood. Lay the tiles on a floor and mark the
layout stick with a pencil at the joints between tiles. Use the layout stick to see how
the tiles fit on the wall.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 55
Install a batten to keep your first row straight. With everything else ready to go,
you'll want to install a batten to help keep your tile rows straight. This is a piece of
scrap wood, such as a piece of 1x4 lumber, that you use as a long straight-edge,
placing the first row of tiles right against the batten. Align the top edge of the wood
so that it follows exactly along the mid-level line that you marked, then screw it into
the studs. Once the tiles have been placed, simply unscrew and remove the batten.

Double check that everything is level before installing the tiles on the batten. You'll
also want to check it all the way across, since there may be dips in the wood you
use for your batten.

Part
2
Laying the Tiles
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 61
Mix the mortar. You'll need thin set mortar to lay your tiles. While you should always
go by the manufacturer's instructions, a general rule of thumb is to start with the

powder in a bucket and just add water slowly and mix until the consistency of the
mortar becomes like peanut butter.
You should also allow it to "slake" after you first mix it up. This means you allow it to
rest for 10-15 minutes and then stir it up again. Now it is ready to use.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 72
Spread the mortar. Working in a roughly 2x3'[4] area, use a tiling trowel to apply the
mortar. Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the
notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping
motions to apply the mortar. The direction of the grooves doesnt matter but the
lines should all be roughly parallel.
Your trowel size will depend on the size and type of tile you're using.[5] For the
average small wall tiles which are currently popular, you will want to use a 1x4"
square notch trowel.
Test a tile to make sure the mortar is mixed and spread correctly. Mortar a small
spot and then place a tile. Pull the tile up and look at the pattern that is create on
the back. If you see clear lines, then the mortar is too dry. If you see goopy mounds
then the mortar is too wet.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 83
Place your tiles on the wall. With the mortar ready to go, you can start placing your
tiles. Just twist them into place, sticking to the small area that you prepared for
yourself. Place your spacers between each tile as you go. These are usually cross
shaped and placed at the corners but if you have unusual tiles you may have to
improvise, such as by placing only one arm between tiles and letting the rest of the
spacer stick out.
If the mortar rises up between the tiles as you place them, the bed is too thick and
you will need a smaller trowel.
Check the tiles for level as you go. This is when a laser level can really come in
handy.

Part
3
Grouting the Tiles
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 91

Choose and mix your grout. You'll need to choose what grout is appropriate for your
project, depending on how large the gaps are between your tiles. Once you've
chosen, mix the grout according to the packaging directions, being sure to also mix
any additives you want. Usually, you will start with the water in a bowl or bucket
and add powder until the consistency is like toothpaste. Mix only what you can
spread in about 20 minutes, since mixing any more risks the product drying out.
Sanded grout is used for gaps larger than 3mm.
Unsanded grout is used for gaps smaller than 3mm.
You can find all sorts of additives at your local hardware store. These can do
everything from making the grout more water resistant to changing the color to
match your tiles.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 102
Spread the grout, using a grout float. Now, spread the grout (using a grout float) in a
roughly 3x3' area, or whatever size you can grout in about 20 minutes. Hold the
float at a 45 angle and push the grout into the gaps using diagonal swipes.
You do not want to push the grout around parallel to the lines, since this can gouge
the grout back out of the gaps.
You can save yourself some time by using the grout float to remove as much of the
excess grout off of the tiles as possible.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 113
Clean the grout. After allowing the grout to cure for 20 minutes wipe the tiles with a
clean, damp sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiled surface. Wipe just a
small area, clean out the sponge, and then wipe some more.
It is best to do this for each small area as you complete it but you can wait until you
have done two to four small areas as well. Keep in mind, however, that it will be
much harder to get the grout off and the final look may not be as professional.
Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 124
Allow it to cure. Now, allow the grout to cure for three hours or whatever amount of
time is recommended on your product directions. Make sure that the area remains
dry and that it gets adequate ventilation.
Some additives may cause the grout to cure more slowly. See the included
packaging for any addendums to the curing process.
You can clean off any remaining residue after the grout has cured. An old sock or dry
rag work well for this.

Image titled Install Ceramic Wall Tile Step 135

Seal the grout. Once you have installed all of your tile, you'll want to apply a grout
sealer. This will help keep mold from growing in the gaps and will need to be
reapplied usually every year (preferably every six months). Though every sealer is
different, usually it is a wax which must be applied in a circular motion with a rag.
You can also get brush-on or spray-on tile sealer.
Do not put these sealers on non-glazed, unfinished tile. It will absorb into and
possibly stain the tile.

1. Dirt Resistance
Ceramic and porcelain tiles do not retain dust or residues as easily as many other
flooring surfaces. They can be easily cleaned with common household materials.
Additionally, they do not need polishing or buffing to maintain their finish. A day-today cleaning procedure retains the look of the finish and shine on this type of
flooring.

2. Stain Resistance
The stain resistance of ceramic and porcelain tile varies depending on its capacity
to resist moisture. Glazed tiles and even some unglazed tiles resist all types of
stains and can be cleaned easily with some guidance. Click here for guidance on
how to clean up common types of tile flooring stains.

3. Slip/Skid Resistance
One practical consideration is the level of slip resistance your tile floor requires. Slip
resistance involves two factors your tile floors likely exposure to spills, and your
environmental requirements. The more your floor will be exposed to spills, the
higher your need is for a slip-resistant floor tile. Also, homes with younger children,
disabled or elderly people need to have floor tiles with slip resistant characteristics.

Ceramic and porcelain tile manufacturers have developed slip resistant tiles by
using various glazes, glaze additives, and patterns. Also, tile size, grout joint
spacing, and slope of the floor will affect the slip resistance. In addition, unglazed
ceramic tiles have greater slip resistance than glazed tiles and are recommended

for areas subjected to frequent water spills or heavy foot traffic. Click here to learn
more about tile flooring slip resistance.

4. Color Permanence
Because color is fired into a tiles clay body (in the case of unglazed tiles) or onto a
tiles glazed surface (for glazed tiles), fading does not occur. The colors in ceramic
tiles do not fade even if exposed to direct sunlight and its color-leaching UV rays.
They remain permanently color fast.

5. Hygiene
The surface of ceramic and porcelain tile does not easily retain antigens or
allergens, nor do they absorb fumes, odors or smoke. This feature enables good
hygiene and makes these tiles a suitable flooring material for any environment
where hygiene is essential.

Now that you know the characteristics of ceramic and porcelain tile, would you like
to learn more about choosing the right ceramic or porcelain tile for your space?
Click here to read more.

Care And Maintenance

Ceramic tile is one of the most durable and maintenance friendly surfaces you can
choose for your walls, floors, countertops, etc. With proper care & minimum
maintenance, it will retain its original beauty and luster for many years. Generally,
all that is necessary to keep your tile looking as good as new is a quick wipe with a
clean damp cloth or mop. Prompt cleanup of spills and regular cleaning will keep
your ceramic tile surfaces looking their best.

If a cleaner is necessary, Florida Tile recommends the use of low VOC (volatile
organic compound), neutral pH, non-hazardous, and non-polluting products.

Glazed tile walls in your home will easily keep their lovely look with simple routine
care, just wipe regularly with a clean damp cloth or sponge. A non-abrasive, neutral
cleaner can be used (abrasive cleansers will cause scratching to shiny tile and
polished marble surfaces). Highly polished tile and stone surfaces should be
polished dry with a soft absorbent cloth after cleaning to eliminate the buildup of
hard-water residue and to maintain the high polished finish.

For glazed tile floors, sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt and gritty particles.
Follow with a mop or sponge dampened with a neutral pH cleaner. If a cleaner is
used, be sure the surface is rinsed thoroughly with clean water and dried. For
textured or uneven tile or stone surfaces, substituting a soft scrub brush or white
nylon scrub pad for the mop or sponge will quicken the cleaning process. Unglazed
tile floors and porcelain tile floors can also be maintained in this same manner.

Tiled surfaces in your bathroom may require a more thorough routine cleaning
because of a build-up of soap scum, body oils or hard-water stains. Use a clean,
damp cloth, or sponge with a neutral pH cleaner, allowing it to stand about five
minutes before rinsing and drying. Specialty bathroom cleaners may also be used
(always test first). Clean shower regularly with the appropriate tile and stone
cleaner. Dry with a towel after each use and leave curtain or door open between
showers to allow for maximum ventilation and moisture escape.

Heavy Duty Cleaning

For high traffic areas or when tile has been neglected for a long time, heavy-duty
cleaning may be required.

Glazed walls and countertops should be cleaned with an alkaline-based cleaner

(high pH, non-acidic). Use a white nylon scrub pad, followed by a clean water rinse.
Poultice may be used in combination with any appropriate cleaner, if needed, to
restore seriously soiled areas. Poultice is a very fine powder that serves as a mild
abrasive, yet cannot cause scratching to even the most delicate glazed tile and
polished marble surfaces. Unglazed tile and natural stone can be treated in the
same manner as glazed when heavy-duty cleaning is required. Once the tile or
stone has been effectively restored and is dry, it is recommended that the
appropriate sealer be applied to protect from staining and ease ongoing
maintenance.

To clean badly soiled countertops, an appropriate alkaline cleaner is recommended.

Poultice can be lightly sprinkled onto the wet cleaner solution and scrubbed with a
white nylon scrub pad or medium nylon scrub brush to facilitate cleaning. Rinse
thoroughly. For glazed tile floors, the same products and procedures are
recommended.

For showers, tub surrounds, or other wet areas, light acidic cleaners are
recommended to remove hard water mineral deposits. These acidic cleaners are not
recommended on acid-sensitive surfaces such as metallic glazes or polished marble.
For acid-sensitive surfaces, a neutral or alkaline cleaner, used in combination

with Poultice is recommended. Never use harsh acids such as hydrochloric

(muriatic) or hydrofluoric, as these acids, and even the acid fumes, can cause
damage to tile, stone, grout, humans and pets! The accepted acids (use sparingly)
for homeowners use are mild citric, sulfamic and phosphoric. Always test first for
desired results.

Dos and Donts

Do use a grout joint. Due to inherent size variations in porcelain and ceramic floor
tiles, a grout joint must be used. Your installer will be able to recommend a suitable
grout joint for the product youve selected
Do regularly apply a water based penetrating sealer on all natural stone products
Always do a small test with sealers & cleaners to insure desired results
Do use a sealer on grout joints; except for 100% solid epoxy grout
Do read and follow label directions for all cleaners and sealers
Do not combine ammonia and household bleaches
Do not use harsh cleaning agents such as steel wool pads or strong acids, which can
scratch or damage the surface of your tile
Do not use a cleaning agent that contains color on unglazed tile, natural stone, or
white grout, as these porous surfaces may absorb the color
Do use only non-abrasive cleaning compound or formula that is recommended for
both glass and tile when cleaning glass tile

Do see your nearest Florida Tile Dealer or Distributor for advice on special cleaning
problems or if you have any questions
Murals, Resins, Glass, Cast Stone Fixtures and Metals

Wipe clean with a damp cloth or sponge using a neutral, non-abrasive cleanser. Be
sure any cleaner residue is removed with a clean water rinse. Clean with alkaline tile
cleaner or all purpose cleaner using a soft cloth. Rinse with clean water and dry with
a soft towel. Cast Stone Fixtures and Cast Decors are pre-sealed in manufacturing
with water based, liquid silicone rubber dispersed sealer. For re-sealing, the sealing
product should also be the same type of sealer for best penetration into existing
sealer. For more detailed information on Glass tile installation and maintenance,
visit www.floridatile.com or review the TCNA (Tile Council of North America)
Handbook Guidelines.